Is Latvia the greenest country on earth?
Transcription
Is Latvia the greenest country on earth?
Take your FREE copy! winter/spring 2015 Is Latvia the greenest country on earth? Marians Pahars: Leading by example King for a day More passengers, more routes What wonderful neighbours! A WORD FROM THE CHAIRMAN c o n t e n t s W Natural benefits 14 TRAVEL PEOPLE Leading by example Airport, the leading airport in the Baltic region and one of the most mod- 4TRADITIONS elcome to Riga International ern air traffic hubs in Central and Eastern Europe. We hope you enjoy your short time with us, exploring our restaurants, cafés, shops and other facilities. Our commitment is to consistently increase and improve our services and quality for all our customers. Despite the ongoing problems in Europe, in the east and in the 22ECONOMY west, the number of passengers passing through our airport shows from or through Riga in 2014, a slight rise from the previous year. Journey into the unknown no signs of a slowdown. More than 4.81 million passengers flew to, More airlines are launching routes here (for more information, see 24 BUSINESS FEATURE the articles about the airport at the back of this magazine), while The road to recovery others are building on already proven success at Riga International 26 RESTAURANT REVIEW launch new routes – this year to destinations such as Dubrovnik, Medieval night out 28 Airport. The Latvian flag carrier airBaltic, for example, continues to Thessaloniki, Rhodes, Pisa and Aalborg – its third to Denmark after Copenhagen and Billund. We are delighted too that Wizz Air will very soon be basing a FAMOUS TRAVEL DESTINATION second aircraft here, allowing it to launch more routes to cities like have at least 11 of its popular low-cost routes up and running from What wonderful neighbours! 38PHILOSOPHY Try walking in my shoes 44ENVIRONMENT Is Latvia the greenest country on earth? Hamburg (Lubeck), Stavanger and Liverpool. Wizz Air expects to Riga by summer 2015. The continued presence of reliable flag carriers and legacy airlines from all over Europe means that Latvia will be easily reachable for the duration of its six-month presidency of the Council of the European Union in the first half of this year. The airport’s newly expanded and freshly modernised VIP Terminal is now offering high-quality services, so that visitors get a positive first and final impression of Latvia. 52HEALTH terminal means greater safety for passengers. The upgrade of Riga King for a day International Airport to CAT II international status means that on rare 58 AIRLINE NEWS raise the safety of airline operations. airBaltic recognised as world leader 60 DESTINATION GUIDE Misunderstood Zurich 64 RIGA INTERNATIONAL Recently completed modernisation on the runway side of the days of poor visibility, for example, we can reduce flight delays and Meanwhile, construction work is beginning on an extension of the passenger terminal building. This will allow us to expand the gate areas for Schengen and non-Schengen passengers and improve the comfort of the travel experience in Riga. Enjoy your time at RIGA International Airport! AIRPORT More passengers, more routes Andris Liepiņš Chairman of the Board of RIGA International Airport winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 3 Photos courtesy of Latvian Tourism Development Agency Traditions NATURAL BENEFITS In traditional societies, folk medicine replaces the role of the drug companies. After all, what did we do before the arrival of Pfizer, GlaxoSmithKline and Novartis? 4 • GATEWAY RIGA • I n a 21st century where modern science and Increasingly, certain sections of society technology dominate our lives we seem to are, when they can, abandoning modern phar- deal in the synthetic rather than the natural. maceuticals. Prozac, Viagra and Aripiprazole. But we so easily forget that all modern medicine Instead, where it is possible, they are turning is based upon ancient therapeutic wisdom and to natural concoctions, ‘home remedies’ and to using nature's boundless bounty to save us from nature. Others of course mock these people as our aches, pains and sicknesses. ‘old fashioned’, ‘out of touch with reality’ and so winter/spring 2015 forth. But one of the world’s leading independent this will pull open a kitchen drawer, dip your in the long run to disease and debilitating illness. online healthy lifestyle websites, NaturalNews, hands in, and start rummaging through the doz- Do you ever instead think of using a herb, natural recently reported on a study showing that the ens of different tablets, creams and nasal sprays tea, fruit, vegetable or something as obvious as common weed milkweed can completely cure you have stored away. But why do we do this? honey to do the job instead? many skin cancers, for example. Particularly when it has been proven that over In Latvia, particularly in the countryside, if What do you do if you have a headache, use of certain pharmaceuticals undermines our people are feeling sick, they are more inclined runny nose or hangover? Most of you reading immune system and makes us more susceptible to knock up a natural concoction made from The common weed milkweed can completely cure many skin cancers 6 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 The 1685 tariff of Riga apothecaries shows usage of 306 medicinal plants and began to realise that certain things are good for our health and can help heal us. We tend to call the people who do this ‘wise old ladies’ these days. Once upon a time, these same ladies who took such an interest in the health of their children, grandchildren and kids in the village were commonly thought of us as being raganas (witches) and, in the case of men – burtnieki, or wizards. According to the book ‘Apothecaries of plants and herbs found in the back garden and nesses and how they can be cured. Libraries Olden Days’: ‘The 1685 tariff of Riga apoth- nearby forest. are full of books on the subject. Countless ecaries shows usage of 306 medicinal plants, Generation after generation of Latvians magazines contain articles. Pharmacology was at least half of which were grown locally. Bark have handed down from one to the next a born out of folk medicine. Put simply: once was used from 23 of these plants, while roots collective memory of what causes certain ill- upon a time, we observed our environment are mentioned in connection with 142 plants; www.Lumiere.lv info@Lumiere.lv +371 29508019 Rūpniecības iela 11, Rīga Résidence Lumière – эстетика и комфорт! Эксклюзивные апартаменты премиум-класса с полной отделкой Яркий образец югендстиля Здание в списке Всемирного культурного наследия ЮНЕСКО Престижный Посольский район в центре Риги Résidence Lumière – aesthetics and comfort! Premium apartments with full high-quality finishing Stylish and glorious Art Nouveau building Included on the UNESCO World Heritage List Prestigious Embassy District in the centre of Riga 8 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 ви д н а жи те л ьс тво в Л атви и r e s ide n c e pe r m it i n L a t v i a flowers appear 70 times, and seeds 144 times. Nowadays, first and foremost, Latvians turn Attempts to separate effective ingredients from to tea as their health saviour. There are esti- these raw materials were made by distilling, mated to be 3,000 different varieties of tea in the sublimating as well as dissolving them in various ways’. 10 • GATEWAY RIGA • Other remedies popular in Latvian folk medicine include the use of mustard in footbaths winter/spring 2015 world and tens of thousands more herbal brews. Camomile is one tea acknowledged even in the most ardently pro-pharmaceutical societies as Latvians have a tradition whereby plants, are then stored away in an equally dry place having the magical ability to de-stress us and herbs and grasses are collected before mid- ready for use in the winter months when the calm us down. summer, left to dry for a couple of weeks, and body’s immune system is usually most tested. According to the Latvian Institute, amongst vitamins are a wonderful healthy cocktail for the most popular Latvian teas for common the body’s ailments and mineral shortages. ailments are: Common cold – raspberry tea Sore throat – milfoil tea Overdoing the booze – marigold tea Improved blood flow – St John’s Wort tea Latvians are also crazy about serving up berry water. They don’t call it berry water but this is often effectively what it is: a combination of berries which were boiled and stored earlier in the year, and whose free radicals and The bathhouse is also an essential part of Latvian folk medicine Again, these berry drinks have a whole range of positive benefits from curing the common cold to improving an individual’s general state of mind. Other remedies popular in Latvian folk medicine include the use of mustard in footbaths to cure the common cold. Turpentine cess. The bathhouse is also an essential part to possess healing properties (if drank in can be purchased in Latvian chemists and of Latvian folk medicine and indeed Latvian moderation). is rubbed all over the feet and back to help national identity. Sweating and beating out More broadly speaking Latvian folk tradi- improve blood flow and the breathing pro- negative energies and nasty toxins is one of tions extend well beyond folk medicines to the principle ways Latvians protect them- include funeral rites, name day celebrations, selves from what life has to throw at them. and commemoration of the dead, seasonal Rigas Black Balsams is an alcoholic beverage festivals, traditional dress, and ancient folk dating back several centuries and reputed song (dainas). Learning more about Latvian folk medicine: If you want to research further about Latvian folk medicine as well as modern medicine in Latvia we recommend visits to both the ‘Paul Stradins Museum for History of Medicine’ and the ‘Pharmacy Museum’. l Riga minutes from centra st ju d an isl la sa ip Located on K School of Riga the International wn To d Ol ic or st hi s educational and t all your children’ ee m to ce oi ch t ea is a gr needs in Latvia. “We are a respectful, learning-focused community where each student is inspired to achieve his or her potential and to become an ethical, confident, and internationally-minded citizen of tomorrow.” 12 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 vides an represented and it pro s over 30 nationa lities ha internad lly an ica al typ l loc oo th sch bo The on in English to ati uc ed d ite 11 (age red e ad acc e 2) to gr internationally cater for toddlers (ag y ntl rre cu . We 16 . 20 nts st tiona l stude pleted by Augu to grade 12 to be com 16 –17) with expansion the ational Schools and the Council of Intern aby ern d ite Int red the acc by ly ed ISR is ful l is also authoris oo sch e Th . on ns ati tio uc Ed amina Latvian Ministry of ridge International Ex Organisation, Camb tiona l Bacca laureate and Success for All. ing then contact us at is focused on lea rn th l oo sch t ea gr a g If you are seekin eting. now to request a me Zvejnieku iela 12, Riga, LV-1048. Tel. +371 6762 4622 | isr@isriga.lv | www.isriga.lv Travel people LEADING BY EXAMPLE Y ou are from Latvia but were born in in Riga stadium when I was just four. After my Ukraine. What are your first memo- first steps I began to kick a ball around. And as ries of growing up? a kid I just loved football and played it every day My family used to go to the Ukraine every summer time to see my grandparents. My mum whenever I could: at school, in the backyard, with my friends. was pregnant while we were in Ukraine and my parents decided at the time it would be good to How did you first get into football as a kid? stay in the country to give birth due to the nice I played my first organised football from the environment there. So I was born in Ukraine but age of eight. My family moved to Purvciems came straight back to live here in my homeland where we lived opposite the 87 vidus skola. of Latvia. Every summer I went there to visit One day I was at school and there was a knock my grandparents. There was always a great on the classroom door. This guy came in with family atmosphere. I love Ukraine, but I grew up a moustache and asked: 'Who wants to play in Latvia and spent my whole life here in Riga. football?' I was 8 years old and that man was Almost all of my childhood memories revolve Jurijs Andrejevs. Today, 31 years later, he is the around football. My father took me to the school head of football education in Latvia. Before that 14 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 With those two VHS tapes he decided to approach most of the clubs in England to see if they would like to give me a trial March 6, 7 Exhibition – fair“MADE IN LIEPAJA” March 18–21 Liepaja 390 – Anniversary Day March 18–21 International Piano Stars Festival April 10–25 Jazz Days May 9 Opening of the tourism season and the Tweed Ride Allure of the beach Photo courtesy of Artūrs Kondrāts, FHM magazine photo session Marians Pahars is the head coach of the Latvian national football team. As a talented young player, he became the first Latvian ever to play in the English Premier League where he quickly became a household name. Gateway Riga’s Justin Walley met Marians at the Latvian Football Federation’s Headquarters, where they discussed Marians’ distinguished playing career and his job as one of the youngest and brightest new coaches in international football. MAKE YOUR PLANS FOR LIEPAJA! February 14 SMELT FEST Enjoy the whitest sand, most beautiful sunsets, craziest beach parties Culture and music dwells in Liepaja Experience culture, listen to the musical rhythms of Liepaja and find your own! An active holiday by the water Take some energy from the city where the wind is born May 16–17 International Night of Museums in Liepaja and surroundings May 23–24 Liva village Fest May 29–31 Grobina Town Festival and International Viking Festival ”Seeburg 2015” May 30–31 Family Festival July 10–11 International Music Festival ”Summer Sound Liepaja 2015” July 10–11 The International Workshop of Artists and Drawers ”Liepajas Marina 2015” www.liepajaskultura.lv July 11 The Sea Festival Discover what else to see and do in Liepaja, where to sleep, eat and go out at: www.liepaja.travel July 18 Liepaja Half Marathon July 24–27 International Electronic Music Festival ”Shine Cafe” July 25 – August 1 Techno Windsurfing European Championship Liepaja events calendar: kalendars.liepaja.lv and then got taken to the first team to become a full-time Skonto player. What was it like playing in that Skonto team which was brimming with talented Latvian internationals? Photo courtesy of Zigismunds Zālmanis, NIKON Yes, it was unbelievable. Most of the national team were there as well as the national team coach Starkovs. There were so many experienced players, many of whom became my Photo courtesy of Latvian Football Federation friends later on. Almost immediately I got my chance to play for the national team. All of this happened so quickly and naturally. There were so many emotions. I worked hard every day and I suppose I grew every day as a player and became more confident. You were the first Latvian to ever play in Gary Johnson took the tapes and showed them ing a trial with Werder Bremen. Skonto wanted the English Premier League. How did it all to Graham Taylor (former England national team to make money out of me and the offers didn't happen? manager). quite suit them, so I stayed. It’s a long story (laughs)... At that time there was a guy from Belarus, a No, Mister Taylor said. I wasn't good enough and that seemed to be the end of that. Gary Johnson phoned Dave Jones at Southampton and suggested he have a look at he was also the head coach of Latvian youth Did you imagine yourself ever becoming a retired football player, his name was Alexander. But I was already attracting attention from me. I went to play at the Commonwealth Cup in football teams and the Latvian national team professional when you were growing up? He went to England and through some contacts Dynamo Moscow, who offered me big money to Moscow and all I knew was that an Englishman join them, as well as an Italian club, before hav- was coming to watch me. I got so nervous and head coach. So during almost my entire pro- No, not really. I didn't think about football in within the Latvian embassy he received video fessional career as a player we spent that time that way. I also went to ballroom dancing and tapes: one of Skonto's 2-3 away defeat in the next to each other. combined the two hobbies for as long as I could. I would have continued doing both but one day of us were boys. I of course stuck my hand up my dance coach told me: 'You have to choose and said: 'I want'. between dancing and football and just do one'. Photo courtesy of Latvian Football Federation From my class of thirty kids I guess twenty So it forced me to give up my dancing. But one sport was never enough for me. I did six or seven months of fencing which is good for things like balance and stretching. I also swam and did some karate classes. I think it is important that kids do all different kinds of stuff. Being good at several sports can really improve you at one specific sport. You soon found yourself playing for the best team in Latvia That Saturday morning we met at eleven I played at Pardaugava with Jurijs until he at the school stadium. All the classes came left to join Skonto Riga as Aleksandrs Starkovs' and there must have been forty or fifty of us. assistant. I dreamt of playing there. They had Jurijs arrived, threw a ball onto the pitch and the best pros, money and opportunities and, of shouted: 'Play!' course, played the best football. I had to stop playing earlier than I wanted and I was never able to reach my full potential but I have no regrets about that UEFA Champions league against Barcelona. We had led that game 2-1 before Stoichkov scored the winner in the 90th minute. The second tape was of our match the following season against Inter Milan. Alexander watched those two tapes and for some reason he liked me despite the fact I only played 30 minutes against Barcelona. And that was that. With those two VHS tapes he decided to approach most of the clubs in England to see if they would like to give me a trial. After some unsuccessful efforts, finally he knocked on the door at Watford academy. Gary Johnson was sitting there. He was polite and friendly, and Alexander asked him to 'please take a look at the videos'. Gary took the tapes and his number, put them in a drawer and said he'd watch them when he had a chance. Three weeks passed and Gary didn't phone, Then one day he called and told me I could so Alexander returned to Gary’s office unan- So we played twenty-a-side with all of us Around that time I started to think football have a trial. I played in a friendly in Jurmala. It nounced and asked him if he had watched the trying to get the ball and show what we could could be my long term profession and Jurijs told went well and Starkovs told me he wanted to tapes. 'No, sorry, I forgot', Gary told him hon- do. After the game, the better players were me he wanted me to join him at Skonto but that me to sign for Skonto. I signed a contract, and estly. 'Here they are, still in my drawer'. asked to fill out a form. I was one of those kids myself and a couple of other talented youth team began playing for Skonto-Metals in 1995, which 'Let’s watch them together,' Alexander told who passed the first 'trial'. I then signed for the players needed to be patient and wait for him was effectively Skonto's development squad. I him. And Gary watched the film and said: 'Yes, Daugava academy. to come back one day. played there for a couple of months, did OK, you are right. He’s a good boy.' It was then that 16 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 English football supporters can lift you up to greater heights or they can destroy you if they don't like you winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 17 Photo courtesy of Latvian Football Federation in the first game I played terrible. In the second where I could be used in a more valuable way. match I was even worse. I thought to myself: I was a player who could run with the ball. For you have blown your opportunity. And by the example, Messi today is sometimes more effec- time we played our third match I just relaxed tive when he comes from deep. and concentrated on my own game instead of worrying about the Englishman in the stands. I took the ball from the half-way line and beat five or six players before scoring. As it turned out, Gary had missed the first two games and walked in to the stadium just as I scored that wonder goal. He got straight on the phone to Dave Jones and told him 'You have got to look at this boy!' I was offered a trial, and scored a hat trick for Southampton reserves against Oxford United. You were a prolific goal scorer in the EPL. What are your memories from that time and could you have scored more goals if certain managers had continued to play you in a more central role as a striker? I wasn’t a big goal scorer before I went to England. I scored 19 for Skonto one season but 10 of those were penalties. I played deeper 18 • GATEWAY RIGA • I was lucky enough to be coached by Strachan, Hoddle and Jones. And, in my final days, by Harry Redknapp winter/spring 2015 I think the way I played and the style of Southampton combined and worked well. That team created a lot of chances and I only needed one or two to score. When I played for the Latvian national team, we had matches where you have one chance to score and you have to take that single opportunity. I know you are still held in very high regard by Southampton fans My time at Southampton was the best part of my career. I had to stop playing earlier than I wanted and I was never able to reach my full potential but I have no regrets about that. I still receive messages from Southampton fans. I almost cried when I received some of those nice letters. My time at Southampton was so long ago now but I am told they still sometimes sing my name on the terraces. I don't know how to react to that. It is incredible. of him because he was coming towards the end be going wrong and what advice I have to give I also met Pep Guardiola, who said almost of his career but he was the best, especially them to avoid those same mistakes in the future. the identical same thing: 'Make your own phi- in training. losophy and do it!' What did you learn from your playing days What made you decide to take up coaching? Photo courtesy of Viktors Sopirins, LFF Photo courtesy of Zigismunds Zālmanis, NIKON I didn't imagine a life without football. When that you didn’t learn as part of your many You have a choice: Who do you have in your coaching qualifications? team: a young Maradona or Lionel Messi? I quit playing I spent half a year with no job. I Theory and practice are of course two com- Maradona was my idol as a kid. Messi is did some courses and I tried to help with player pletely different things. There is lots of knowl- my favourite today. That is incredible! You have deals. The first deal I worked on turned into a edge courses can't give but the same applies chosen my two favourite players from all time! big mess. I sorted out an air ticket for a player in the other way. The relationships with play- I would go for Messi. to go for a trial with a club but he decided not ers are the most important thing. You have to to turn up for the plane and ended up signing think about your personal relationship with the for someone else. The club asked me what players, fans, coaches and the press. These are the hell I was playing at. I told them it wasn't things you cannot learn with coaching badges. my fault but immediately realised all of that You have got to watch as many different training wasn't for me. I was very lucky that things sessions as possible; to learn about different turned out that way. mentalities. Every day as a coach I learn new I started studying for my Category A (coach- things. What was your greatest moment as a league so natural and amazing. After the game I was ship with the fans player? being hauled around the inside of the stadium and asked me to be his assistant at Skonto. In England, football is like a religion. My son It is difficult to say. When you win and you meeting supporters groups and sponsors and What is the main difference between coach- was born there and I regard Southampton as being score, nothing can beat it. If you lose, you lock being given champagne. I didn’t speak a word of ing at national and club level? my second home. I was just a young lad when I yourself away and stay at home. If you score English and I just remember laughing to myself I enjoy it. There’s not a massive difference. went there. So in many senses I grew up there. two goals against Newcastle then you are King and thinking: Where am I? What am I doing? You can analyse, train, improve individuals, and The most important thing for me was the of Southampton for that weekend. You could How did this all happen? work on tactics. So much more than you can do supporters. They gave me a massive lift. English go to any restaurant or pub and eat for free; as a player. The time between games is the big football supporters can lift you up to greater Your greatest moment as a national team difference. Our last game was against Holland heights or they can destroy you if they don't like player? in November and our next match is in March in you. I saw experienced internationals that fans For Latvia when we qualified for the didn't like for some reason and they seemed to European championships finals after knocking be destroyed by them. If the fans don't like you, you are nothing. For some reason they liked me. I think they saw you as being a very honest, hard-working player…as well as a talented one. Perhaps. I know that their support lifted me up and made me into a better player. And then there were the fantastic players and coaches. I was lucky enough to be coached by Strachan, Hoddle and Jones. And, in my final days, by Harry Redknapp. In a parallel universe, Marians Pahars is the captain of a ship! nobody would let you pay. I never got fed up You must be very impressed by what of people coming up to me and asking for a Southampton have achieved in the past few photo or autograph. My first goal at the Dell years. I am guessing you look out for their was probably my favourite moment. We were results every Saturday? their last game live against Swansea. They lost 1-0 Yes, but they didn't deserve to lose. 20 • GATEWAY RIGA • Do you miss playing? Your lowest moment in football? very happy coaching. I am enjoying coaching Now no. Only for the first two years. I am more than I did playing. year's 6-0 defeat to Holland. I stood there on the side line and realised I couldn't do anything I think many people will be surprised to hear to help. That’s the worst feeling. I have never felt that You have to think about your personal relationship with the players, fans, coaches and the press that bad in football. When you lose as a player I think a big reason was because I was con- there are eleven of you or maybe even fourteen stantly in pain at the end of my playing career. Your advice to any newly qualified coach just who are responsible, but when you lose like It became too much. I hated not being able to starting their respective careers? that as a manager there is much greater shame. play my best. When you coach, you can shape, José Mourinho said: ' If someone asked me Everyone naturally blames you. you can develop. There are so many things to ten years ago, I said: be yourself. Now I say: enjoy; so much more than playing. be what they want you to be'. As a player, my low points were the injuries. Do you sometimes watch your players and baller and later a manager, what do you think Marians Pahars would be doing in a parallel universe? I’d be on the sea. My father was a sailor. I was always waiting for him to return and I wanted to do the same thing as him. In a parallel universe, Marians Pahars is the captain of a ship! I love the sea! Latvia’s upcoming Euro 2016 qualifiers: 28 March Czech Republic (Away) am such a young coach. I probably need advice 12 June Netherlands (Home) It is too early for me to give much advice as I The best player you ever played with and If you hadn’t become a professional foot- rather than giving it. I met Sir Alex Ferguson in 3 September Turkey (Away) substitute. I remember Doddsy hitting a long Thierry Henry. He was my idol. But at At the very start of my coaching career, yes. St. Petersburg after last year's Brazil World Cup. 6 September Czech Republic (Home) ball to Beattie who knocked the ball into the that time, there were so many names: Giggs, I used to shout when I saw players not doing the I asked him that very same question you are 10 October Iceland (Away) penalty area and I ran onto it and headed home. Beckham and Vieira. most elementary things correctly but certainly asking me now. He told me: 'There is no secret. 13 October Kazakhstan (Home) losing 3-2 to Blackburn and I came on as a Of course I do, every Saturday. I watched the Czech Republic. out Turkey was unbelievable. My lowest point has definitely been last Photo courtesy of Latvian Football Federation ing license). Not long after that Starkovs called You seemed to have a very special relation- against? think: ‘I could do better than that still!’? I ran to the fans and was hugging them and Le Tiss (Matthew Le Tissier) is the best not anymore. Today, when I see players making Work hard. Be yourself. Don’t copy anyone. Find everyone seemed to be hugging me. It was player I have played with. I didn't see the best mistakes, I’m analysing where I or they might your way'. winter/spring 2015 winter/spring 2015 Cover photo courtesy of Nora Krevņeva / Latvian Football Federation archive • GATEWAY RIGA • 21 Economy policy and we have indeed returned to the dis- expected rebirth of Liepajas Metalurgs later equilibrium days of 'beggar they neighbour', then this year, should lead to a positive reversal all bets are off. in fortunes in that sector at least, and for the For there is no longer any point us discussing Latvia's economy as if it operates as an indi- port town of Liepaja it is extremely welcome news. vidual cog in the machine. Arguably, economic Lower Eurozone demand and the Russian decisions made in Brussels, Washington, Tokyo ban on EU food imports will not benefit Latvia. and Moscow now determine the fortunes of The implications of a weak euro, QE and the Latvia more than they have ever done in the ongoing political uncertainty in Greece, Ukraine regained independence years. and the Middle East leave us with more ques- Latvia posted one of the highest GDP tions than answers. growth figures in the EU in 2014 but the broken relationship between Russia and the EU has Photos courtesy of Wikimedia Commons and European People's Partyand led to the loss of export markets, threatens energy security, and also dents Latvia's fast expanding tourism sector (already there has been a 6% reduction in the number of visiting Russian tourists). Ernst and Young predict the Latvian economy will grow by 3.4% in 2015. The Latvian Bank is less positive and even slashed their growth rate forecast from 2.7% to 2% in mid-January, saying that: 'it is obvious that the current geopolitical situation and the developments in the global economy are likely to result in a steeper slowdown of economic growth in Latvia'. However, while industrial production contracted by 0.9% annually in November, the Lower Eurozone demand and the Russian ban on EU food imports will not benefit Latvia JOURNEY INTO THE UNKNOWN We live in uncertain economic times. In 2015, things are changing so rapidly that the economic environment of tomorrow can be turned on its head by a single event today 2 014 was a tumultuous year: events in the removal of currency pegs, trade embargos, Ukraine and beyond have removed any the fear of deflation...the fear of inflation...cur- remaining semblance of a status quo rency wars. Where this all ends, nobody knows. when we talk of economics and economic Monetary policy no longer operates within events. Quantitative easing policies across the the normal rules of engagement, with policy world, oil price shocks, currency devaluations, discipline seemingly a thing of the past. Now, 22 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 Latvia posted one of the highest GDP growth figures in the EU in 2014 in 2015, the European Central Bank has entered the quantitative easing experiment along with the likes of the United States, Japan and the UK. Having run out of all conventional tools left remaining to them, ECB policy makers have decided to press the 'print' button and see where that takes them. And if exchange rate policy is now one of the main instruments of monetary winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 23 Business feature around 20% in EU overall registration data. In Latvia, the premium segment had a 14% market THE ROAD TO RECOVERY Gateway Riga spoke to Ingus Rutins, the VicePresident of the Latvian Automotive Association about the current trends in the Latvian automobile industry, and the road to sales recovery. P lease describe the Latvian car market registered new passenger cars and light com- as you see it right now mercials (table 1). Photos and graphs courtesy of Inchcape Motors Latvia, Latvian Automotive Association, and Ingus Rutins share in 2014. At the same time, I have also been quite frequently asked how it is possible that there are so many top-end cars on the streets. Firstly, in Latvia the customers who can afford premium cars do buy large, luxury-class cars and of course premium SUV’s are highly demanded instead of compact and mid-size hatchbacks. The density of premium segment cars in Riga and especially its city centre is much higher than in any other region and this makes a kind of visual illusion. What is absolutely true: our mini, small and lover medium (compact) segment share, all combined, is more than two times smaller than the EU average while the SUV segment (small, medium, large) is more than two times bigger than the EU average. There are several reasons market. As you see, we are quite conservative Some predictions for market trends and for this: 1. the car is still an object of status, and in accepting alternative fuels. However, last year development in 2015... a 10-year-old premium car is a better deal than we experienced a new trend for pure electric Regardless of quite sufficient growth during a brand new small segment vehicle; 2. we are vehicles. It might be too early to call it a trend the last year we are making a conservative prog- still a one-car-per-family market meaning higher but at least 176 pure electric vehicles were sold nosis for 2015. We are predicting moderate but mileage and more versatile use of the car; 3. we with a 1.4% market share, which is more than fragile growth of 4.5%. We are living now in a would like to have better roads. four-times higher than the EU average. These completely different Europe than 7-10 years ago. cars have been acquired with the support of the The EU still has not recovered. On top of that, Climate Change Financial Instrument (Maximum there might be some extra draw backs due to support is up to 75% of a car’s price). The top the Russia-Ukraine conflict. Private consumption selling model was VW e-up! besides FMCG is rather weak in Latvia. Which are the most popular brands? Here are the top ten brands for 2013 and 2014 (table 2). And the top 5 for used car first registrations in 2014 (table 3). We are predicting moderate but fragile growth of 4.5% What is happening in the luxury car market? segment (we call it higher premium – S-class, A8, Porsche Panamera)? The premium segment had a 14% share of experiencing moderate growth over the last that our new car market is 7.5 new cars per cap- three years. Even though we saw growth ita, which is one of the smallest figures in the rates of 17% last year, and 24% in 2012, EU. Taking the European average of some 25-30 small profit. The overall competition has become ing the post-crisis period from ~10% to 14%. there was a slight drop in 2013 of 0.7%. new cars per capita gives us an idea of Latvia’s incredibly strong. This is related to finance availability/unavail- Thus, the three year average is slightly over market capacity i.e. 55-60 thousand new cars per 13%. There were very high growth rates in the year. But we are perhaps decades away from this Many foreigners from richer Western segment totals about 1% of the total market post-crisis period of 2010 and 2011 but we and the industry has to focus on today’s objec- European countries are often surprised by in 2014. have to remember that the car market almost tives: aftersales business, integrated customer the fact that they see more mid-range and collapsed in 2009 when at 4,173 units this services, looking for corporate solutions, building top-end cars here than at home. was around the same level as 1997. Today, customer loyalty etc. At the same time, the car Why do you think Latvians often drive better we are still 10 years behind the previous peak, industry heavily overinvested during the pre-crisis cars than say the British or the French? meaning we are somewhere between 2004 market and now is still paying the price. It was From a statistical point this is a myth. Almost all Lexus models are sold in hybrid ver- and 2005 and well behind the 2007 peak of only in 2013 that authorized dealers stopped Premium segment cars (typically dominated by sions. The market share for hybrid cars is 1.4%. 36,000 cars. Last year, there were 14,993 losing money and began to make a very, very Audi, BMW, MB, Volvo, and Lexus) represent Petrol/LPG cars account for 1.5% of the total GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 Gads VW % no tirgus Volvo % no tirgus Audi % no tirgus BMW % no tirgus Opel % no tirgus Pārējie % no tirgus Kopā It depends on what we call luxury cars. All Having close to two million inhabitants means • Table 3 premium cars (Volvo, Lexus, etc.) or the luxury The Latvian car market has been 24 Table 1 the total market in 2014. This is slightly less than the year before. BMW and Audi are dominating this sector. The premium market has grown dur- Table 2 ability for the middle classes. The pure luxury How popular are hybrid/electric/gas cars? There is only one brand making a considerable contribution to the hybrid market – Lexus. 9092 18% 7176 14% 6142 12% 5087 10% 4115 8% 18135 36% 49747 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Zīmolu Volkswagen Toyota Skoda Peugeot Nissan Renault Opel Ford Citroen Dacia 1-12 mēn. 1-12 mēn. Perioda 2014/13 2014. daļa 2013. daļa izmaiņa p.p. pkt. 2 531 16.9% 2 080 16.2% 22% 0.6% 1 833 12.2% 1 519 11.9% 21% 0.4% 1 283 8.6% 835 6.5% 54% 2.0% 1 011 6.7% 900 7.0% 12% -0.3% 948 6.3% 667 5.2% 42% 1.1% 930 6.2% 646 5.0% 44% 1.2% 550 3.7% 491 3.8% 12% -0.2% 517 3.4% 659 5.1% -22% -1.7% 484 3.2% 448 3.5% 8% -0.3% 482 3.2% 345 2.7% 40% 0.5% winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 25 Restaurant review Rozengrals’ signature dish is smoked pork, held in a salt water barrel for three days before being smoked on a huge spit for eight hours, and Photos courtesy of Rozengrals accompanied by totally natural pearl barley and MEDIEVAL NIGHT OUT A night out at Rozengrals is like dining in a wonderfully atmospheric living museum T here are very few restaurants in Europe cellar was built on the site of where diners can that can genuinely trace their origins now enjoy the medieval charms of Rozengrals back to early medieval times. Riga was restaurant. founded in 1201 with the Dome Cathedral we Today, Rozengrals is one of only two know so well today, dominating the skyline of medieval restaurants in the Baltic and Nordic the then new settlement. Nearby, a wine cel- region that can genuinely trace its roots back lar was later built connecting the lively central over 700 years. With some of its internal brick market to the busy port. It was here in 1293 walls part of the original defensive walls of the that original manuscripts show the city’s wine city, and Riga's first and only remaining under- 26 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 Today, Rozengrals is one of only two medieval restaurants in the Baltic and Nordic region that can genuinely trace its roots back over 700 years lentils. Nowhere else in Europe can diners enjoy this dish made in this totally authentic way. Rozengrals is located on Riga’s most narrow ground water well to be found in the main din- old town street: Rozena iela. The name of the ing hall, it is hard to imagine a more authentic restaurant, in fact, comes from Rozena Street medieval atmosphere than that experienced (which was owned by Baron Rozen in the 13th at Rozengrals. Furthermore, the entire imagi- century). Visitors must descend five metres to natively created menu has been thought out the original level of Riga, where 200 church based only on ingredients that were used in candles and soothing medieval music combine the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. Diners to create a wonderful ambience quite unlike any can enjoy starters that include ‘soup of chopped other experienced in the Baltic states. rye seeds with pearled barley and free range Rozengrals has seven atmospheric rooms piglet meat’; tuck into mouth-watering main and chambers in total and can accommodate courses such as spit-fried meat, lamb shank, up to 200 diners at any one time. Family crests catfish fillet, or rabbit stew with prunes and on the walls are those of rich families from cedar nuts; as well as scrumptious desserts medieval times and many of the features on that include an extremely tasty pumpkin pie. the walls, such as a number of large swords, Beverages that sport historical roots back to are original or have been painstakingly recreated the thirteenth century include honey beer and using original drawings and manuscripts. The home-made vodka. Diners can even enjoy medi- 'Knights' Room' features a single huge wooden eval vegetarian options including the extremely table which would have been the modern day tasty bread pie with cheese and tomato, which equivalent of a VIPs room in bygone days. is an interesting and yummy take on home-made Passing a mock dungeon, visitors to lasagne, and can be washed down with a glass Rozengrals can reach two new warm and of refreshing natural rye bread kvass. atmospheric rooms that were completed last Christmas after nearly two years of careful excavation work. Another section of the original city walls was unearthed during the part excavation, part archaeological dig. Rozengrals feels like so much more than a restaurant. With a nightly medieval band, candlelit chandeliers, and honey beer from its own microbrewery this wonderfully authentic eatery feels like a place far removed from the time and place we inhabit in our rather more mundane day-today lives. Visitors must descend five metres to the original level of Riga, where 200 church candles and soothing medieval music combine to create a wonderful atmosphere i Rozengrals is located in old Riga, on the corner of Rozena iela and picture-perfect Kramu iela. Open the large wooden door and descend the candlelit stairs to the main hall, with its four-metre high arches. The restaurant is open seven days per week 12:00 – Midnight, with live medieval music each evening between 8-10pm. Reservations can be made by calling +371 67220356 or by email: info@rozengrals.lv Read more about one of the best restaurant experiences in the Baltic and Nordic region: www.rozengrals.lv/en/ winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 27 Famous Travel Destinations Photos courtesy of Enterprise Estonia, and Tallinn TV tower WHAT WONDERFUL NEIGHBOURS! Best Ra tes available at www.bes tw estern.co m Hotels with personality Photos courtesy of Picasa Photos courtesy of Jaak Nilson Best Western offers a hotel to meet your needs, whether you travel for business or pleasure. In the first part of our new feature we take a look at the countries and people who neighbour Latvia. We begin with one of Europe’s most upcoming nations: Estonia 28 • GATEWAY RIGA • E stonia is a country that always seems to end in Estonia, what are the highlights of this be in the news these days. Recently, in beautiful northern European country? Gateway the first ever State of World Liberty Index Riga guides you through a few of the countless report, it was ranked first out of 159 countries, and it also finished eleventh in the World Press delights on offer in Estonia… Freedom Index and first in the entire world for TALLINN Internet freedom. Undoubtedly one of Europe's most photogenic If you live in Latvia or are visiting the Baltics capital cities, Tallinn mixes the old with the for a few days, and wish to spend a long week- new to create a unique urban ambience. The winter/spring 2015 The World’s Biggest Hotel Family® has more than 4,000 hotels worldwide, each independently owned and operated, with their own, unique atmosphere. However, they all share the same international service and quality standards. From our hotels, you can choose the best match for your needs. BEST WESTERN for warm, clean and comfortable stay, BEST WESTERN PLUS with that little something extra or BEST WESTERN PREMIER for a refined level of comfort. In the Baltic countries, there are three hotels to choose from: BEST WESTERN Hotel Mara, BEST WESTERN Hotel Vilnius and BEST WESTERN Santakos Hotel. Read more and book your hotel at www.bestwestern.com highlight for most visitors is Tallinn’s immaculate medieval old town, parts century. The compact old town is full of cosy hotels, imaginative cafes, romantic restaurants and has dozens of historic churches and Hanseatic buildings. Outside of the old town, creative-minded Kalamaja is a former industrial area of the city that is now home to cool and happening wine bars and quirky galleries. Slightly further afield, Kadriorg is popular for its lovely park, grand palace and interesting art museums. The 360-degree view from Tallinn TV Tower is unique to Estonia as well as all of Northern Europe. The Tallinn TV Tower sends visitors soaring to cloud level, where a spellbinding view, interactive exhibition and the possibility of sending a TV greeting to a friend add up to a spectacular experience. It is now possible to rappel 175 metres It is now possible to rappel 175 metres from the roof at to walk on the edge of Europe’s highest open observation platform Photos courtesy of Toomas Tuul of which date back as far as the 11th Parnu was a Russian imperial resort as long ago as the nineteenth century PARNU from the roof and to walk on the edge Estonia's beach capital is a wonderful place to of Europe’s highest open observation hang out in during the summer months with the platform. sun setting near midnight and its white-sand beaches hosting festivals, pop concerts, beach volleyball tournaments and, of course, endless beach holiday weekends. Out of season Parnu is well worth a visit for its excellent water park and gorgeous town centre, which is full of protected build- ings, cosy cafes and top class hotels. Parnu was a Russian imperial resort as long ago as the nineteenth century, although the city itself dates way back to the Hanseatic days of the thirteenth century. TARTU For many Estonians, the nation's second city is now Estonia's unofficial cultural capital. Home to one of the oldest universities in Europe, Tartu has inexplicably remained off many tourist itin- 30 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 31 Photos courtesy of Jarek Joepera NARVA Pride of place is Tartu's picturesque town square with narrow cobbled streets connecting off this at every angle. Prices in Tartu are sometimes a Photos courtesy of Jarek Joepera eraries but now the secret is well and truly out. Muhu is loved for its sleepy fishing villages, road and was formed by a meteor explosion rants. Fascinating castles, churches and narrow Often overlooked by foreign visitors and a abundant wildlife, pagan heritage and working (check out also Kaali below). As well as being cobbled streets add to the experience. little off the beaten track, Narva's spectacular windmills. The most visited of its islands is difficult to spell, Hiiumaa is also well known for Hermann fortress located on the Russian border Saaremaa, which also happens to be the big- its wild nature and picture postcard lighthouses. is an unforgettable sight. Located on the banks gest island. The capital Kuressare is home to one of the Narva River, Hermann fortress actually of the finest medieval castles in north eastern HAAPSALU spans both sides of the river and is the best pre- Europe, while the town itself offers top class A less party vibe than Parnu makes this attrac- served castle fortress in the Baltic states. Before hotels, restaurants and art galleries. Hiiumaa tive seaside resort a great place to partake of a World War II, Narva was considered to be one of Island can sometimes be reached via an ice relaxing spa, beach strolls and candlelit restau- the most outstanding towns in the Baltic region Estonia has more than 1,500 islands VIJANDI Only now entering the collective tourism consciousness, Vijandi is certainly worth a visit if you are travelling from Latvia. This former Hanseatic League town boasts castle ruins, beautiful lakeside and hilly terrain, winding and today its rich history and Russian heritage make for a fascinating visit. ESTONIA'S ISLANDS Here is a surprising fact for you: Estonia has more than 1,500 islands. The most popular are where the pace of life gives the word 'slow' a cafes, bars and restaurants to keep tourists, new meaning. If you think mainland Estonians locals and international students entertained. have gone too far in embracing modern technol- Tartu also boasts the spectacular Toome Hill area ogy (Estonia was the first country in the world to and castle ruins, while night hawks will love its offer ‘E-residency’, online voting and is consid- exciting selection of bars and night clubs. Think ered to be the most wired country in the world Bohemian, and imagine the kind of place where by many), then the nation's islands will be a backpackers arrive and never want to leave. breath of fresh air, in every sense of the word, as traditional Estonian life continues here much as it has done for centuries. 32 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 Photos courtesy of Arne Ader fraction of Tallinn and there are plenty of quirky Photos courtesy of Remo Savisaar Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, Kihnu, Ruhnu and Vormsi, winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 33 Photos courtesy of Toomas Tuul available of the only Russian Orthodox nunnery in Estonia. KUREMAE CONVENT A cheap and fascinating day trip is the Kuremae KAALI METEORITE CRATERS Covent, which dates back to the 1890s. The The majority of 'shooting stars' we see in the curative waters here have held a place in night sky never make it as far as the surface of Estonian folklore since ancient times and visi- planet earth. But we know that some do, occa- 36 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 strange sensation of walking on the sea. Of meteorite crater, which is more than 100 metres course if you are new to Estonia you shouldn't wide and 20 metres deep. The crater is around venture out on the sea ice unless you ask the 7500 years old and entrance is free to visitors. locals whether it is definitely safe to do so. WALK ON THE SEA RAKVERE Have you ever walked on the sea? Thought so. Rakvere is popular for its amazing castle, Well, here is your chance! During the deep mid- located close to the pristine Lahemaa National winter the shallow Gulfs of Riga and Finland Park, as well as its massive Tarvas the Bull often freeze over, making it safe to venture statue. winter/spring 2015 Photos courtesy of Jaak Nilson tors can enter the convent for free. Tours are Baltic atmosphere. out on the sea ice and to experience the very can visit the site of the world’s eighth largest Photos courtesy of Toomas Tuul Photos courtesy of Jaak Nilson cobbled streets and, in general, a very special In Kaali, tourists can visit the site of the world’s eighth largest meteorite crater sionally with devastating effect. In Kaali, tourists • GATEWAY RIGA • 37 H-UV TRY WALKING IN MY SHOES What is it like to be a Latvian living in the United Kingdom, or a British person living in Latvia? I n this issue of Gateway Riga we begin a just moved away after several years, and ask new feature called 'philosophical viewpoint'. them to describe their very different experiences In each issue we take a topic and discuss it living and working in the other person's cultural from two different perspectives. In future issues we will discuss what it is 'to be Latvian', 'what is money?' and 'capitalism or socialism?' In our first philosophical viewpoint we take homeland. LINDA FROM LATVIA. LIVES IN WALES. two Latvians living in the UK, and one British Living in the UK – the people do tend to be person living in Latvia, and another who has more forthcoming and chatty. Whether this Photos and images courtesy of Wikimedia Commons and Austin Nicholas Philosophy InnovatIve prIntIng solutIons for today`s busIness needs printing on wide range of substrates - paper, synthetic materials, plastic printing on all coated, uncoated and rough paper stocks with flawless results Instant drying of the paper even with the most porous materials temperature control during the printing process results in dimensional stability of the printed sheets new powderless printing methods result in clean, soft sheets with the papers used retaining their original textures and eliminating the scattering of powder granules as previously encountered. the surface of printed items is smooth, which makes surface processing in post press very efficient a higher and better colour balance and improved colour space MicroDot LTD Jurkalnes iela 15/25, riga, lv-1046, latvia phone: +371 67370052; +371 29 44 55 03 www.microdot.lv 38 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 'DAVE' FROM ENGLAND. LIVES IN RIGA. usually what you get, which is reassuring. I would say though, being critical, that integrat- JANIS FROM LATVIA. LIVES IN ENGLAND Latvia and Latvians have changed a great ing fully into Latvian society is almost impos- I came to England more out of necessity deal over the years. When I first lived in Latvia, sible. I think I will always be an outsider and than choice. I made the mistake of borrowing the country still had a Soviet vibe. This was it is still a little strange to me that sometimes too much from the bank and when things went something that had both its good and bad when a Latvian friend gets married, I won't wrong in Latvia, I was left with massive debts. points. I remember in the early days that be invited. So, I got on a flight to Liverpool, got in touch Latvians were generally very unreliable when I really respect the Latvians for trying to with the friend of a friend who had moved to it came to making plans and arrangements. I hold on to their culture and traditions. And the England a couple of years earlier, slept on his would agree a business meeting or personal seasons are a wonderful thing here. Winter sofa for a couple of weeks and began looking rendezvous and the person or persons I had and spring feel like winter and spring, but back for a job. agreed to meet might phone me 20 minutes home sometimes it is hard to tell the difference after our scheduled meeting time to say they between March and July. I’d never been to England before and the north of the country was quite different to what would be late or wouldn't be coming at all. After A big plus in Latvia is also the clean and I had expected. In fact, a lot of things were a while it became slightly comical. Nowadays, green nature. Big respect has to go to the locals different to how I had imagined they would be. this kind of behaviour is unusual rather than because you never see litter on the streets or Life in England can be much tougher than being the norm as it once was. in the forests. They respect nature in ways many foreigners expect it to be. Some things Food used to be much better. Vegetables can be really cheap like supermarkets, but rent were generally much more natural than you and bills end up costing you so much that you would get back home in the UK. In those days don’t have much left at the end of the month; there weren't supermarkets in Latvia, so you particularly if you are trying to save to pay off didn't buy crap and vegetables tasted like they debts. It took me quite a while to get on my had just come from someone's back garden. Sadly, tomatoes now start to taste like water, and chicken has started to taste like it isn't chicken; just like in England. Although of course so many Latvians get their fruit and veg from the lauki during the summer, so for five months a year the food is still brilliant. One of the best things about living in Latvia many years ago was that Latvians always wanted to have a good time. They always lived for the day or the moment. In England, there is a tendency to make arrangements a week or two in advance but here people decide they fancy And certainly the Latvian desire to enjoy the moment has always rubbed off on me doing something on the spur of the moment. For feet and I found I wasted a lot of money on going out. There is a real drinking culture in England and I started spending most of the spare cash I had on Friday nights out. Those nights out are very different from Latvia. The start of a weekend is full of energy and everyone is happy. It is great. But by the end of the night the atmosphere is totally different. It can get quite intense. People here are very friendly and if you work hard there are good opportunities. I think if you make an effort to integrate most British people are quite welcoming. But in a way, you are still an outsider. an English person this took some getting used to that most nationalities don't. I am embarrassed I like the food here. There is so much choice. but on the whole I much prefer this Latvian way sometimes when I go home by people's disre- People told me before I came that England of doing things. And certainly the Latvian desire spect for nature. Actually that extends to many wasn’t good for food but you can find anything is due to the fact that we are living in a small Henry, our son, is enjoying the nursery here; I to enjoy the moment has always rubbed off on British people's disrespect for themselves. you like here. town in Wales, and not a big city in England, have been impressed by the range of activities me. Unfortunately, modern life is starting to get Obesity and bad diet are much bigger problems who knows. I am having to take some time and toys. The main difference being the system in the way and as Latvians become more inter- in the UK than here in Latvia. to adjust to the cultural customs and social of everyone coming at once to pick up their etiquette. children whereas, in Latvia, it was a lot more There is certainly a lot more choice in relaxed in timings. It is also more challenging to supermarkets for processed and ready-made understand how the little man is getting along as foods. And yet, the fresh and organic range is access to the school is very limited. It is a great limited. This potentially is reflected in the 'size' experience living here, but it certainly makes us of people. Buying online is certainly a lot more miss our friends and family in Latvia as well as established here also. Charity shops are also the lifestyle. We are looking forward to returning a huge benefit, gaining some great bargains in the summer and hopefully enjoying the best for a good cause and helping to reduce waste. of both worlds. 40 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 The people do tend to be more forthcoming and chatty ested in bettering themselves in their careers, The biggest thing I dislike about Latvians? their desire to drop everything and do stuff has The majority don't say thank you if you hold open been a little dented. It used to be possible to find a door for them. But there are plenty of countries a party in Riga seven nights per week; now you where I experience the same frustration. will be lucky if you find a good night stretching past Thursday to Saturday. AUSTIN FROM WALES. CURRENTLY LIVES BACK IN WALES AFTER LIVING IN LATVIA FOR 10 YEARS. I am having a passionate love affair with A big plus is that Latvians are considerably Latvia that began in 2003, during a reconnais- less aggressive on the whole than English peo- sance mission to Riga for a football tour. Pre- Latvians do seem a little cold but, as is ple. Sometimes at home you can get punched Ryanair and pre-EU membership the country sometimes the case with Scandinavians, this just for looking at someone the wrong way, was on the verge of great changes. An intoxicat- is usually down to getting to know someone. whilst here I feel a lot safer in general and find ing energy seemed to flow through Riga and its Once you know a Latvian, what you see, is people far less confrontational. inhabitants. It is hard to explain, but it was very winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 41 GRAND MILANO STUDIO YOUR NAVIGATOR IN THE SEA OF REAL ESTATE Villas with parks, penthouses with swimming pools, chic apartments, commercial property in Italy, France, Switzerland and Monaco, as well as exciting and soon enough I too had fallen victim have ever imagined. And all these years later I to its seduction …. have a great mix of friends from Latvia and all Life in the UK seemed rather dull and pre- over the world. dictable after flirting with the highly contagious I feel quite privileged because I founded a “Baltic Bug”. In my eyes, Latvia held seemingly football team called Riga United back in 2007. endless opportunities, and with not much more We were useless at that start but now our than the clothes on my back, I fell headlong into club has grown and grown and we play in the the bosom of the Baltic. national leagues and even have kids’ teams. It was a lack of reliable information available The football club really allowed many of us to to visitors in Latvia at that time that gave me the integrate into Latvian society and it also was inspiration to form what is still the philosophy great for a lot of locals who became friends behind my company, Travel Out There, to this very with all of us from all over the world. Day; helping visitors to “access the un-accessi- We are taking some time out of Latvia for ble”, to ensure that they enjoy an experience that our son to spend a bit more time with my side they want to tell the whole world about! of the family and to avoid the Latvian Winter. The early friendships that I made in Riga have proved to be of more value than I could 42 • GATEWAY RIGA • We will be back to spend the summer in Latvia. I am really looking forward to it. winter/spring 2015 People told me before I came that England wasn’t good for food but you can find anything you like here Architectural design Restoration works Assistance in receiving mortgage loan Interior design Calculation of real estate taxes Legal aid for receiving settlement visa for Italy GRAND MILANO STUDIO CORSO DI PORTA ROMANA, 51 - 20122 MILAN, ITALY P.IVA 07556890965 - F.I.M.A.A. TEL.+39 3921298168; +7 (499) 96-89-777 ORDER@GRANDMILANOSTUDIO.COM Environment Increasingly Latvia is becoming renowned for being one of the planet's greenest countries F For Your B eau tiful B eing! Photos courtesy of the Latvian Tourism Development Agency IS LATVIA THE GREENEST COUNTRY ON EARTH? L AT VIAN SPA CHEER YOURSELF UP | PAMPERING YOUR BODY | MASSAGE AS A JOURNEY A RADIANT FACE | FOR YOUR BEAUTIFUL HANDS AND FEET EXQUISITE POOL AND SAUNAS | SANCTUARY FOR THE BODY AND SOUL or the fourth year running Latvia has made it onto the list of the 'The World's 10 Best Ethical Destinations'. This year's top ten, listed in no particular order, is as follows: The selection was made based upon those nations 'in the developing world' deemed to be preserving their environment and creating a 'lively, community-based tourism industry'. A number of countries are waking up to the realisation that high environmental standards are not only beneficial for all who live within their boundaries, but it is also favourable for the World's 10 Best Ethical Destinations The Bahamas Barbados Cape Verde Chile Dominica 44 • Latvia Lithuania Mauritius Palau Uruguay GATEWAY RIGA • collective national wallet. Take Costa Rica as an example. Nothing much more than a Central American back water five decades ago, and as recently as the 1980s one of the biggest sinners in deforestation rates, Costa Rica’s astounding natural beauty and efforts to protect what God has endowed it have resulted in an explosion in tourism and subsequently in the wealth of the winter/spring 2015 For the fourth year running Latvia has made it onto the list of the 'The World's 10 Best Ethical Destinations' Family – owned and operated authentic Latvian SPA Exclusive, locally-sourced SPA treatments, meant to vitalize your body and inspire your soul Revitalizing body wraps, soothing massages with aromatic oils Invigorating Latvian sauna rituals with aromatic medicinal besom flapping Fresh, natural “La Daile” cosmetics or high-quality Latvian brand cosmetics are used in all SPA treatments Latvian SPA La Daile | 47 Bruninieku Street, Riga (center), Latvia | T + 371 67314007, +371 26631114 | www.ladaile.lv Moment of Rela x ation and Har mony ! nation and a big percentage of its people. Such Nicaragua out of the mire of decades of war is Costa Rica’s success story that up to half a and foreign meddling. million Nicaraguans now work in the country As Ethical Traveller points out: 'Travel has and send home remittances to their neighbour- recently become the world’s largest industry, ing homeland, which is in turn helping to drag exceeding a trillion-dollar annual footprint. 46 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 In 2012, Latvia was ranked the second greenest country in the world in a 132-country Environmental Performance Index conducted by the prestigious Yale and Columbia universities This means that travellers have real power. well and remembering our roles as citizen dip- particular should be lauded for its status as one Where we choose to put our footprints has lomats — we create international goodwill and of only ten countries in the world highlighted for real economic and political significance. Ethical help change the world for the better'. being top performers in 22 indicators spanning Traveller believes that mindful travel offers many According to the rankings, Latvia and ten policy categories reflecting areas of both rewards, both personal and global. By “voting Lithuania scored highest in environmental pro- environmental public health and ecosystem with our wings” — choosing our destinations tection among the Ethical Destinations. ‘Latvia in vitality’. winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 47 48 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 In 2012, Latvia was ranked the second a blanket in smog and, in recent years, open-pit recognised as being the greenest country on greenest country in the world in a 132-country mining has returned to the nation, threatening earth, the organisation's other chief goal is 'to Environmental Performance Index conducted to tarnish the country's Pura Vida reputation create a social movement of members who by the prestigious Yale and Columbia universi- abroad. You won't find these problems in Latvia, support green ideas and are open to improve ties. In that report, Latvia was only beaten by although Latvia's protected areas are no match their daily habits in order to lead an environ- Switzerland, and scored ahead of nearest green for Costa Rica's in size (12.7%) or indeed gran- mentally friendly lifestyle'. rival Norway. The highest ranking non-European deur and biodiversity. Latvia still has a long way to go if it is to The organisation Homo Ecos wants Latvia 'to be the greenest country in the world' country in the Yale and Columbia Index was once The organisation Homo Ecos wants Latvia be seriously considered the greenest nation on again Costa Rica. But Latvia is well ahead of 'to be the greenest country in the world'. And Earth. For starters it must continue to reverse the game compared to Costa Rica in a number who can blame them in the pursuit of a goal the detrimental effects of decades of Soviet of less quantifiable measures: in Latvia you are the nation is already ahead of most of the industrialization, which have poisoned some extremely unlikely to find litter or general waste global pack in achieving? Each year, Homo parts of the country. Fear that polluted ground by the road side and once in a blue moon will Ecos focuses its efforts on new campaigns water might infect some of the nation’s rivers you find it in a forest or by a lake or beach. Sadly, that can help achieve this lofty goal. In 2011, it in years to come is a genuine concern. in Costa Rica outside of the heavily protected was CO2 emissions, the following year the deg- But imagine what having the accolade national parks - which make up a hugely impres- radation of the Baltic Sea, in 2013 the reduction of being the world’s greenest country could sive 26% of its territory - disposing of rubbish in of food waste, and last year awareness of the do for Latvia’s national brand, perceptions the forests and beaches is common every day consequences of excessive food packaging. abroad, not to mention the kinds of green- practice. No country which wishes to call itself Homo Ecos is an environmental organisation minded businesses and people it would a bastion of green living should tolerate such that ‘unites people in Latvia and abroad who attract here? open degradation of its environment. Factory care for balanced progress that suits both In 2012, Latvia’s minister for the envi- EU funds directed at such a plan. And this emissions and vehicle pollution in Costa Rica's human beings and the planet we live on’. As ronment and regional development set out year’s Latvian pavilion at Expo 2015 in Milan capital San Jose often leave the city choking in well as pushing for Latvia to become and be plans to make Latvia the greenest nation is called ‘Nature Inside’: ‘We are convinced on earth with a ‘green vision’ paper seeking winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 49 that Latvia finds the Energy for Life in bal- Latvia still is one of the fastest growing econ- ance between the material and the immate- omies in Europe’. rial, nature and production,’ the organisers Perhaps now is the time for all Latvians to unite explain. ‘Latvia can enrich the world through in the achievement of an attainable and incredible this harmony. In 2012, Yale and Columbia uni- goal. Neighbours Estonia are recognised as being versities named Latvia as the second greenest the most internet friendly nation on Earth. Maybe country in the world on the Environmental in years to come we really can declare: Latvia is Performance Index (EPI). At the same time, the greenest country on Earth. 50 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 In 2012, Latvia’s minister for the environment and regional development set out plans to make Latvia the greenest nation on earth with a ‘green vision’ paper Photos courtesy of Jonathan Spa Resort, Taka Spa, ESPA Riga, Wellton Centrum Hotel&Spa, Latvian Tourism Development Agency, Dikli Palace, and La Daile Health KING FOR A DAY Gateway Riga visits six of the top spa destinations in Latvia I purification' as it might have been called in those resort is situated in Amatciems, an exclusive days before marketing executives. new luxury development hidden away in a rural With snow on the ground, daylight at a premium and our workload causing stress and sleepless nights, Gateway Riga decided it was time to escape to six of the leading spa destinations in Latvia for some much needed pampering, relaxation and time out from the daily grind... JONATHAN SPA RESORT After taking the short bus journey from Riga t is as if one day many of us woke up and pursuit. Nowadays, most of us wish to escape and anti-ageing, alternative therapies, fitness to Cesis we are met at Cesis bus station by a thought: it is time I started taking better care the stresses of everyday life, every once in a and weight loss, to name but a few. Spa - as smiling and super friendly member of staff from of my physical and mental well-being. Why while, and unwind for a day or indeed a weekend we think of it today - dates back to the time of Jonathan Spa Resort, who has come to pick at a spa centre or resort. the Greeks and Romans. England has spa towns us up and transfer us to our luxury escape. He and how exactly it happened it isn't clear but, over the past decade or so, the spa and well- The spa and wellness industry was esti- that have been offering relaxing breaks and cura- explains that he recently returned from England, ness industry has changed from something mated to be worth a mind boggling 3.4 trillion tive therapies since Roman times. But further where he lived for four years, to return to the that was once the domain of the rich and con- US dollars in 2013. The industry now includes back in time, even the Native Americans and area where he grew up and to begin working at nected to become a very typical middle class many sectors including healthy eating, beauty Babylonians knew a thing or two about 'ritual the exciting new top class Jonathan Spa. The 52 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 There is a sense that we have entered the pampered and privileged world of property tycoons and millionairesses Latvian forest where the number of lakes numbers sixty two. winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 53 futuristic sci-fi film, while adjacent to these are different vibe from say ESPA or Jonathan Spa, two male- and female-only relaxation rooms and yet you leave this tranquil corner of Riga where guests can forget all their troubles in absolute privacy. Everything about ESPA Riga seems to have been thought through down to the finest detail. Inspired by the concepts of 'fire and water', the wonderful design of this six-floor luxury wonderland immediately places it head and shoulders above the majority of spa establishments around the globe. Just by entering the building you instantly seem to relax and when it is time to leave the thermal suites, male and female relaxation rooms, ice fountain, lifestyle showers and that amazing roof-top pool behind, you can experience one of ESPA Riga's award-winning treatments. Arita is my masseur as she covers me in soothing and therapeutic body oil that predictably helps to rapidly quieten the mind and release the negative energies from my shoulUpon arrival we enjoy a pot of herbal tea a wonderful organically-grown evening meal affordable than many mid-range restaurants ders, back, arms and legs. You don't get to be before being escorted to our gorgeous room that, despite being in the luxury bracket in in Riga. called 'award winning' just by having a world which has a to-die-for-view of the part-frozen terms of taste and service, is actually more I assume my masseur has trained in the Far East as her skills and very manner put one in mind of those masters of the art in Japan, Indonesia and Malaysia feeling every bit as pampered, relaxed and, dare we say it without sounding too pretentious... reborn. What Taka Spa does particularly well is 'intimate'. Ideal for couples, this experience begins with a chill out in the pool, sauna, steam room and relaxation area, before the Taka Spa hostess presents us with an invigorating body scrape which should be spread all over our bodies in the steam room, before being thoroughly washed off ahead of our massages. I assume my masseur has trained in the Far East as her skills and very manner put one in mind of those masters of the art in Japan, Indonesia and Malaysia. She tells me she learnt her trade in Latvia but already I am barely able to continue the conversation as I find I am so relaxed I would prefer not to speak. My priority for this visit is to experience a head and face massage and it's as if I didn't know my head Back in the cosy room, we slip into our class spa building; the staff are every bit as lake and snow-covered forests below. Instantly complimentary pyjamas and slippers, watch important in achieving and maintaining the very the stress begins to lift from our shoulders and smoke rising from the chimneys of the hobbit highest standards. This full body massage is the there is a sense that we have entered the pam- village and rest our heads on the luxury pillows kind of experience that makes one feel human by who probably mistakes my inane smile for clarity might enter your mind'. I couldn't put it pered and privileged world of property tycoons and mattress. The only thing troubling us as again and reminds me of how I would feel if I something it isn’t. better myself. It is as if a great burden has been and millionairesses. we drift off to sleep is the realisation that we lived in a stress-free world. I must confess to www.espariga.lv/en/ lifted from my shoulders, and my mind has been must depart this wonderful retreat the follow- even falling asleep at one point from the sheer ing afternoon. majesty of it all. There is a peaceful tranquillity to this place that is difficult perhaps to quantify in words. Smoke rises from thatched cottages that are a cross between the Saxon villages of Transylvania and Dorset, and Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings hobbit houses. Downstairs, a sizeable heated pool is surrounded on three sides by big unobstructed windows which afford five star views of the lake and omnipresent forest. Around a secluded corner, guests in luxury dressing gowns ponder whether to partake of the Turkish steam room or perhaps the fragrant smelling sauna. We are delighted to discover that all of the other Jonathan Spa guests seem to have missed the outdoor Jacuzzi at the rear of the resort , where snowflakes flutter down as we lie back in the bubbling hot water and breathe in large relaxing lungful’s of sub-zero country air. Jonathan spa offers a whole host of treatments including Ayurvedic and Thai massages. After a day of bubbling Jacuzzis, relaxing massages, pedestrian-paced backstroke, and admiring fairy-tale landscapes, we enjoy 54 • GATEWAY RIGA • You know that when a spa has featured in Conde Nast Traveller's 'Top five spas in the world' list with a rating of 95.98/100, you are visiting somewhere pretty special winter/spring 2015 www.jonathanspahotel.com/en/ ESPA RIGA could feel this free of the weight of the world since I was a child. In their marketing material Taka Spa say they work 'so that peace and freed up by the experience. 'Sickness comes TAKA SPA about if balance is disturbed in the flow of life I leave ESPA Riga and step out from its beau- One of the things we are quickly learning about energy'. I agree with them on that. Too often, tiful Art Nouveau building on to the city centre the world of spa relaxation is that you can be our modern lives our so damned stressful that streets still smiling to myself after my wonder- made to feel brilliant and special in many differ- our life energy is indeed disturbed and we do You know that when a spa has featured in Conde fully relaxing three hours; my first response a ent kinds of ways. Take Taka Spa as an example: begin to feel sick and 'stressed'. My visit to the Nast Traveller's 'Top five spas in the world' list frown and a weird look from the first passer- this wonderful little spa centre has a completely steam rooms and relaxation cabins of Taka Spa, with a rating of 95.98/100, you are visiting somewhere pretty special. Because Conde Nast are the kind of people who travel the globe and get to experience the very finest resorts and destinations on planet Earth. Not that we can't make our own mind up about what constitutes luxurious spa. After all, that is why Gateway Riga is here lounging in ESPA Riga's exalted outdoor heated swimming pool on the roof of the spa suite. It doesn't get much better than this, as they say: steam rising from the vitality pool as the warm water hits the cold winter air; snowflakes gently falling and settling for just a moment on our noses and eyebrows as we paddle and splash about in the water. Inside there are half a dozen steam rooms and saunas which look like something out of a winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 55 Wellton Spa is conveniently located in the heart of Riga's old town and offers affordable day spa luxury and the magic of one pair of very special hands, here. And, at 20 euro for non-guests, and with free Daile treatment includes an hour of relaxation has left me feeling like a new man. entry for kids under-7, this brand new old town in the pool and saunas free of charge. After our www.takaspa.lv/en hotel offers an affordable and conveniently-located treatment, we were treated to a pot of fantas- spa experience for all. tic, delicately aromatic Latvian herbal tea and www.wellton.com/centrumhotel/en/ healthy snacks in the relaxation room. Spa-and-Beauty-Center/ www.ladaile.lv above might be out of the price range of some of LA DAILE DIKLI PALACE HOTEL our readers and/or in the case of Jonathan Spa, If you would like to experience an authentic Last and certainly not least, we paid a memorable perhaps a little too far away if, perhaps, you are Latvian spa experience, then La Daile offers visit to the Dikli Palace Hotel, a grand and sophis- only visiting Riga for a night or two. Wellton Spa is exclusive, locally-based spa treatments with ticated four-star hotel in the Latvian countryside. conveniently located in the heart of Riga's old town organic Latvian cosmetics and Latvian sauna This wonderful manor house is the perfect place and offers affordable day spa luxury as well as an rituals that specialise in medicinal cleansing. to escape from it all and enjoy a weekend of extensive choice of spa treatments. Gateway Riga The spa is family-owned and operated. And relaxation and pampering. The hotel’s cosy nature opted for a 2.5 hour stint in the hotel's 'recreation there are some excellent treatments available spa offers an excellent range of spa treatments, zone', where there was ample time to enjoy the including bio-organic peloid wraps, rejuvenating in a classy setting. Lie back in an old-school arm delights of its Turkish and Finnish saunas, eight body treatments with berries, juniper thousand- chair, after an hour or two of relaxing spa treat- metre long swimming pool and - pride of place - point massages, chestnut and rowan exfoliating ments, and enjoy a pot of herbal tea by the real its bubbling Jacuzzi bath. There are plenty of sun masks, hot sea sand bags, and other procedures fire place. Afterwards, dinner awaits in one of loungers around the pool if you wish to lie back, that will leave you feeling as relaxed as you Vidzeme’s finest restaurants. relax and read a magazine during your relaxing stay have felt in a very long while. Almost every La www.diklupils.lv/ WELLTON CENTRUM HOTEL&SPA The three wonderful establishments reviewed 56 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 A nything can be collected. Elephants on mantelpiece or Facebook friends. Egons Mednis, the host of Dikli Palace Hotel (Dikļu pils), collects sensations. He collects them in colors of paintings from different centuries, furniture and antique fireplaces. He collects sensations by discovering new tastes in different parts of the world. Or in high-adrenaline hunting stories and impressive hunting trophies that prove their truthfulness. Thus gathering piece by piece Egons Mednis has made collections that have found their home in Dikli Palace. When your soul and mind is tired of city bustle and fuss, the best place to restore your energy is in a nature park of a rural manor. In the authentic interior of the manor, as you step across the softly creaking floor, you’ll hear the echoing footsteps of the affable lord of the manor. You are welcome to spend magnificent time in a four star hotel, hidden in a noble silence of antique furniture, beautiful fireplaces, luxurious drapes and satin sheets, that will make your stay an unforgettable experience. Sophisticated gourmet cuisine and relaxing SPA treatments let guests discover new, extraordinary sensations. Splendid but also cosy halls and saloons are the right place for special celebration accompanied by delicious and exquisite meals, impeccable service and intimate atmosphere. “Striving for excellence in everything we do is what makes Dikļi Palace Hotel an exceptional place to enjoy,” says Dikli Palace Hotel director Agneta Kīta. This is a perfect place for people who appreciate high quality service, history, peace, untouched nature, elegant atmosphere and exceptional food. The chef of Dikli Palace restaurant invites the gourmets to taste contemporary interpretation of the rural bounty from Vidzeme regionpumpkins and apples ripe plump in the near vicinity, rabbit from a nearby farm in Valmier- “Striving for excellence in everything we do is what makes Dikļi Palace Hotel an exceptional place to enjoy,” muiža, fish from Lake Burtnieks or from the manor pond. "Good food cannot be described in few words," remarks Dikli Palace restaurant chef Jānis Siliņš. "Our gourmet menu offers unique emotions and memories”. healing herbs collected in the local meadows and forests, calming and invigorating tea, soft towels and the skillful hands of spa professionals are always welcoming guests in the Dikli Palace’s cozy nature SPA environment. “We value treasures of nature, and practice sustainable management at our hotel,” says Dikli Palace Hotel director. “Our hotel is one of nine hotels in Latvia, and the only hotel in Vidzeme region, which has received the Green Key certificate - an international eco-label for leisure and tourism establishments”. Hidden in noble silence Dikli Palace is an exceptional place to visit. Here, the breath of history and primordial force of nature are intertwined with exquisite cuisine and a treasure trove of recreational pursuits. Visit, experience and depart homeward bound with your own unique tale! Natural and organic products are used not only for restaurant, but also for treatment procedures in Dikli Palace Eco SPA. The scent of the Address: Dikli, Dikli Parish, Koceni Municipality, Latvia Phone: +371 64207480, Web: www.diklipalacehotel.com Photos courtesy of airBaltic, Swissair Airline News AIRBALTIC RECOGNISED AS WORLD LEADER Latvian airline most punctual in the world a airBaltic was the first airline in Europe to prestigious title of being 'the world's introduce an on-time arrival guarantee in most punctual airline'. According to early 2009. of rating of 94.9% for flights linking Riga with ESTONIAN EXPANSION destinations in Europe, the Middle East and airBaltic is expanding its operations out of Russia/CIS, in a study of millions of flights Tallinn. As of May there will be four direct all around the world. It means that more than flights per week from the Estonian capital, nine airBaltic aircraft out of ten arrive on- Tallinn, to Berlin and four flights per week to time. airBaltic is followed in the global rank- one of the finest cities in the world - Vienna. ing by Hawaiian Airlines, Austrian Airlines, Before news of these new direct flights in Iberia and Norwegian Air Shuttle. Talk about January, airBaltic was already operating direct putting your money where your mouth is: flights from Tallinn to Paris. • June are an opportunity for airBaltic customers to visit enigmatic Rhodes Town and the issue was published in October. First up was gorgeous Rhodes coastal town of Lindos. Pisa Poprad in Slovakia, ideal for exploring the GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 airBaltic passengers will also be able to fly directly to the sunniest island in Greece Rhodes. The once-weekly flights beginning in a number of new exciting routes since our last resorts, which very often offer better value-forirBaltic has picked up the extremely to visit the sunniest island in Greece, namely Closer to home in Riga, air Baltic has announced local mountains and increasingly popular ski OAG, airBaltic achieved a punctuality rating 58 SUN, SEA, MOUNTAINS AND BUSINESS money than many of the ski towns of Western Europe. Thanks to airBaltic, Riga now also has five-flights-per-week to Moscow Vnukovo, complementing the already excellent connections between the Russian Federation and Latvia. As well as airBaltic, passengers can also fly to Russia with direct services offered by Aeroflot and Transaero. Looking forward, direct flights to Denmark’s happening Aalborg begin on April 18, while on May 26, RIX passengers will be able to fly to one of the most beautiful cities and leading tourist destinations in the Adriatic: Dubrovnik. Further east, air Baltic passengers will also be able Swissair has announced that it will begin operating flights on the route Zurich – Riga – Zurich and Thesaloniki complete the set of new flight destinations in the coming months. SWISS ON A ROLL In other airline news, Swissair has announced that it will begin operating flights on the route Zurich – Riga – Zurich. The flights are expected to connect the Latvian capital with Zurich three times per week. Readers can learn about this exciting new destination in our destination guide on page 60. Swissair is the national flag carrier of Switzerland and has been in operation since 1931. Today it serves 157 destinations all over the world and Skytrax ranked it as the 13th best airline in the world in 2014, putting it ahead of hundreds of other airlines. winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 59 Clearly, a city ranked as being the second best in the entire world for ‘quality of living’ has much to offer both short term visitors as well as long term residents. O nly Vienna scored higher than Zurich in and visiting Zurich almost always means high the annual Mercer report that measures standards. cities on a points-scoring index, looking Home to one of the biggest stock markets in at 39 different factors in 10 categories, which the world, the city sometimes has to work hard include standards of schools, waste disposal, to shake off its unwarranted reputation as being safety, and political stability. Zurich is also often a boring banker city. An example of how wrong regarded as the wealthiest city in Europe, so it is people can be is that, for example, Zurich hosts fair to say that living; working, eating, drinking the world’s biggest street party, ‘Street Parade’. 60 • GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 Zurich hosts the world’s biggest street party, ‘Street Parade’ tesy Photos cour tschi Rü tin ar M of Photos courtesy of Christian Beutler Photos courtesy of Christian Beutler Described as a ‘demonstration of freedom, love for is the guarantee of an eclectic mix of top and tolerance’ (and often more than living up to end restaurants as well as excellent overnight that description), close to one million stupidly accommodation. More affordable eateries are happy party goers attend an event which has offered up by Zurich’s significant Serb, Turkish taken over from Berlin’s famous and infamous Love Parade. The next street parade will begin shaking its stuff and skipping to those BPMs on August 29. Zurich has transformed itself from bastion of all things Swiss to thriving cosmopolitan city over the past two decades with residents from all over the world (30% and counting) now helping to delete from the memory banks those old perceptions of the city and – some might say – Switzerland. This is one of Europe’s oldest cities with twin-towered Grossmunster cathedral, Fraumunster, Predigerkirche and the gorgeous 13th century huge clock-faced St Peterskirche, Photos courtesy of www.ElisabethR ea MISUNDERSTOOD ZURICH Photos courtesy of Zürich Tourismus Media, Martin Rütschi, www.ElisabethRea and Christian Beutler Destination Guide the city’s four principle churches and four of the most popular tourist sights. And if it is the Zurich has transformed itself from bastion of all things Swiss to cosmopolitan city over the past two decades and Italian communities. For those who prefer to wear a hoodie and trainers rather than a pin-striped suit, the vibe is likely to be more to your taste in Zuri-West, Langstrasse and perhaps old town Niederdorf. And those readers interested in more traditional culture can enjoy world-class opera, ballet, theatre and symphony orchestras. The Zurich Film Festival puts the city on the world cinema map each and every year, and top class international athletics meetings as well as leading Zurichbased football and ice hockey teams also help the city attract very different kinds of people to the city throughout the seasons. All in all, Zurich is cooler than you think, probably less expensive, definitely more beautiful, and undeniably more cosmopolitan. And, if you visit Europe of yesteryear that is more your bag, then museums in the city will keep you entertained during the Street Parade, all of the above, plus a post-breakfast spent in Zurich’s medieval old for hours on end; the Swiss National certainly a lot more besides. As the tourism people say: town is probably the perfect way to kick off your one of the highlights. ‘Zurich: World Class. Swiss made.’ exploration of the city. City planners still refuse Zurich, with its beautiful mountain backdrop, to allow the high rise buildings that blight many is a great hub for anybody wishing to partake European city skylines to be built here, so you of the world class ski runs close by, while one can enjoy the Guild houses of Munsterhof with- day-trip out of Zurich not to be missed is the out glass and concrete monstrosities destroying all-day alpine bus & train journey to 3,400 metre the ambience. Jungfraujoch, and Europe’s highest railway Cool, must-see hang-outs include Art nou- station. veau café Odeon, which is a good spot to reflect Back in the city, a swim in or walk along upon what you have seen and been dazzled by Lake Zurich is always good for the soul, the at the brilliant Kunsthaus fine arts gallery, where botanical, Chinese and zoological gardens all the likes of Munch and Picasso are hung from places for contemplative escape, while one its hallowed walls. Another dozen high profile thing we can thank all those boring bankers winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 61 LNSO &Karlis Lacis Skrillex DJ show www.yanntiersen.bzh www.lnso.lv February 11 / Sapnu Fabrika www.bilesuserviss.lv Quadro Nuevo February 12 / Riga Concert Hall www.bilesuserviss.lv Solstafir February 12 / Club ‘Black Friday’ www.altevents.net Timati February 13 / First Dacha www.bilesuserviss.lv Galaktika February 14 / Sapnu Fabrika www.bliesuserviss.lv Ed Sheeran February 16 / Arena Riga www.bilesuserviss.lv Grigorijs Lepss March 6 / Palladium Robbie Williams www.blesuserviss.lv www.fbi.lv Example www.bilesuserviss.lv www.trythisforexample.com March 15 / Riga Congress The Sound of Music www.bilesuserviss.lv www.opera.lv March 14 / Days Hotel Madame Butterfly www.fbi.lv www.bilesuparadize.lv March 15 / Arena Riga April 15 / Daile Theatre Stass Pjeha Anna Karenina www.bilesuserviss.lv www.opera.lv March 15 / Riga Congress April 16 / Latvian National Opera Spivakovs gala concert Le Villi www.bilesuserviss.lv www.opera.lv March 17 / Great Guild April 20 / Latvian National Opera Olegs Pogudins April 23 / Riga Congress House www.bilesuserviss.lv February 20 / Kipsala Tommy Emmanuel www.bilesuserviss.lv April 27 / Riga Congress House Lord of the Dance www.bilesuserviss.lv www.bilesuserviss.lv May Bryan Adams Unknown Territories March 21 / Arena Riga March 25 / Arena Riga www.bilesuserviss.lv Sofia Rei Celtic Legends www.redhouse-agency.com/ www.bilesuserviss.lv Emir Kusturica & the No Smoking Orchestra Anars Macy Gray April 12 / Latvian National Opera Katy Perry Erotic Festival 2015 www.thenosmokingorchestra.com/ April 11 / Palladium Andrejs Maksimovs www.bilesuserviss.lv February 24 / Palladium April 6 / Arena Riga Stass Pjeha February 18 / Arena Riga February 20 / Riga Concert Hall April 3 / Great Guild Ottmar Liebert March 13 / Big Guild March 27 / Riga Congress House www.bilesuparadize.lv RESTAURANT BURKĀNS May 21 / Latvian National Opera House www.opera.lv Mikhails Kaziniks LNSO Closing season concert March 1 / Big Guild www.bilesuserviss.lv Varum & Agutins Igudesman & Joo www.bilesuserviss.lv www.opera.lv GATEWAY RIGA • winter/spring 2015 April 1 / Latvian National Opera May 29 / Great Guild www.bilesuparadize.lv Breakfast Buffet: Every Day, 7:00 – 11:00 Hours of Operation: Every Day, 12:00 – 23:00 (Kitchen closes at 22:00) Restaurant «ALUS ARSENĀLS» («Beer Arsenal») is located in the Old Riga, near the Presidential Palace of the Republic of Latvia, on the quiet Arsenāla Street. During summer season a large terrace is opened with an outlook on the Presidential Palace of the Republic of Latvia. Democratic, informal atmosphere, excellent Latvian cuisine, attentive and fast service, reasonable prices – it's the restaurant «ALUS ARSENĀLS». Good choice of latvian draft beers. «ALUS ARSENĀLS» – IT’S A GOOD TRADITION! May 8 / Great Guild The love for three oranges Aspazijas Boulevard 36/38, Riga, LV-1050, Latvia Table Reservations: tel +371 66010333 info@decommerce.lv ALUS ARSENĀLS Bruckners Seventh April Following the latest culinary trends in the world of gastronomy, De Commerce Gastro Pub offers its guests an innovative approach to the traditional pub-restaurant dining experience with meticulous attention to flavours, ingredients, and presentation. Select from our many fine wines to sip, or unwind with a handcrafted cocktail and indulge in the impeccable, award-winning cuisine of our top-rated Executive Chef while enjoying the sweeping panoramic views of the vibrant city centre. Jomas iela 42, Jūrmala tel +371 20240000, +371 67764060 www.majorenhoff.lv, info@majorenhoff.lv Open every day from 10:00 – 23:00 www.opera.lv www.anarmusic.ru March • Welcome to Majorenhoff restaurant! We are happy to offer our guests versatile cuisine for gourmets and lovers of exotic foods and traditional European dishes. You will be able to find a wide assortment of different kinds of pizza in our restaurant according to your own taste, and you will know what the real Italian pizza is. Tried our pizza, baked according an ancient Italian recipes with adding spices and sauces, and you will find yourselves in the streets of Palermo or Neapol. We are ready to offer a wide assortment of sushi to admirers of Japanese food. Restaurant's style, interior and atmosphere are ideal for various events from business lunches to romantic dates and meeting with friends. Here everything is done to make our guests comfortable. Attentive and helpful waiting staff will acquaint you with new dishes on our menu. Our restaurant is situated in the very heart of Jūrmala resort at the beginning of pedestrian Jomas Street. Our guests always come back and every time we are ready to surprise them with our new offers. Sophisticated yet cosy atmosphere, versatile and creative menu will leave you with the best impression and positive emotions. March 29 / Great Guild www.fbi.lv 62 RESTAURANT MAJORENHOFF May 2 / Latvian National Opera February 27 / Palladium March 3 / Arena Riga DE COMMERCE GASTRO PUB 1871, RESTAURANT AND BAR h o t s po ts f o rth c o mi n g e v e n ts February Yann Tiersen Great local and international cuisine ;river pearl highly appreciated by locals and city guests, run by Riga bar father figure – charismatic Arnis Biksus, artistically mixing cocktails at a bar here daily. Their famous award-winning chef starts every morning by handpicking the freshest local farmer products from the Central Market for his seasonal local and international cuisine dishes. Ask their sommelier to find the best wine match for your curiously and innovative presented meal. Perfect river view completely breezy and carefree vibes! Wine courses upon request, great banqueting and catering menus (more on our website). Pils laukums 4, (entrance from Arsenala iela) LV-1050, Riga, Latvia. tel +371 67322675, +371 20363335 eriks@alus-arsenals.lv, www.alus-arsenals.lv OPEN: Mon – Thu 12:00 – 23:00 Fri – Sat 12:00 – 24:00 Sunday 13:00 – 23:00 11 novembra krastmala 9, Rīga tel + 371 67503964 burkans@burkans.lv www.burkans.lv Information correct at time of going to press. Photos courtesy of Red House Agency, Opera.lv and Makroconcert.lv winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 63 Riga International Airport 87 MORE PASSENGERS, MORE ROUTES Trondheim Turku Aalesund New York Bergen Oslo Stavanger Aalborg Billund Stockholm Munich Zurich Milan Nice Barcelona Palma de Mallorca St. Petersburg Gothenburg destinations Vilnius Minsk ger numbers. New routes are scheduled to 64 • GATEWAY RIGA • Budapest Rome Tashkent Chisinau Venice Rijeka will base a second aircraft in Riga by April 2015. For charter flights, the most popular destina- It opened a base here with one aircraft in June tion is Antalya in Turkey, followed by Heraklion 2014 and the success of its initial routes has on the Greek island of Crete, Hurghada in Egypt persuaded it to quickly upgrade its presence here. and Burgas on Bulgaria’s Black Sea coast. A second plane in Riga will allow it to create at least three more routes, to Hamburg (Lubeck), NEW DESTINATIONS Stavanger and Liverpool. These are in addition More than half of all passengers using Riga to routes already in operation to Barcelona, International Airport are flying with the Latvian Bergen, Eindhoven, Dortmund, Doncaster/ national airline airBaltic. The world’s most Sheffield, London Luton, Oslo Torp and Paris. have one flight a week, from Riga on Saturdays and from Aalborg on Sundays. From June 5, the airline will also fly twice a week to the historical Bucharest Dubrovnik Bari Out of all of the Baltic region’s air passengers, 46% fly via Riga. winter/spring 2015 The increasingly popular low-cost airline Wizz Air and Stockholm. Aalborg in Denmark will be connected to Thessaloniki Tbilisi Burgas Istanbul Heraklion Ashgabat Greek city of Thessaloniki. A new airBaltic route to Dubrovnik on the scenic coast of Croatia will start on May 26, also with one flight a week, while the Greek island of Baku Rhodes will be linked directly from Riga with a single weekly flight from June 12. Starting from Antalya Rhodes Larnaca Tel Aviv Sharm El Sheikh Hurghada Riga International Airport’s rising passen- via Riga are Tallinn, Vilnius, Helsinki, Moscow in Denmark after Copenhagen and Billund, it will Malta clear that airlines are keen to capitalise on MORE WITH WIZZ Riga from April 18. airBaltic’s third destination Athens As the summer season approaches, it is sengers’ most frequently chosen destinations three new routes this year. Kiev Vienna flights a day. FlightStats, airBaltic will be launching at least Corfu Exciting new routes continue to be launched from Riga International Airport, as passenger numbers rise. International Airport are in transit. Transfer pas- Riga and Moscow Sheremetyevo, to three punctual airline in 2014, according to analysts Warsaw Pisa Olbia Moscow Palanga Copenhagen Glasgow Leeds Hamburg Lubeck Manchester Doncaster Liverpool Bremen Dublin East Midlands Amsterdam Berlin Eindhoven Dortmund London Dusseldorf Brussels Cologne Prague Frankfurt Paris Helsinki Tallinn So it should come as no surprise to learn that almost 30% of passengers using Riga Wizz Air’s decision to base a second aircraft here is great news for Riga. June 13 airBaltic will offer single weekly flights Capacity will get a boost on these existing to Pisa in Italy. routes with a greater choice of flights and flight The Scandinavian airline SAS is returning to times. Besides being great news for passengers, Latvia, opening up direct flights between Riga Wizz Air’s decision to base an additional aircraft and Stockholm from March 29. SAS will operate here is good for Riga International Airport too in up to 18 flights per week on the route. terms of route development. A second route to Central Asia, compli- All of these new routes from various airlines menting the one already in operation between build on the 14 already launched in 2014, all of Tashkent and New York JFK via Riga, is launch- which have been successful. Riga International ing on February 13. Turkmenistan Airlines flies Airport handled almost 66,000 aircraft during between Riga and the exotic Turkmen city of the year. Currently 66 destinations are available Ashgabat, famous for being home to the world’s from Riga, provided by 16 carriers, numbers be launched in 2015 to cities and destina- airport this year, while those already here biggest concentration of buildings made of white which are certain to rise as 2015 progresses. tions in Scandinavia, Northern Europe, the are increasing the range of destinations and marble. It is possible that this route could later In summer season 2015, the number of desti- Mediterranean, Central and Eastern Europe, numbers of flights. be extended from Riga to Toronto in Canada. nations will reach 87, and the services will be and Central Asia. Travellers’ most popular destinations to Ukraine International Airlines will launch provided by airBaltic, Aeroflot, Austrian Airlines Riga International Airport saw 4.814 mil- and from Riga are currently London, Moscow, a new route to Kiev from March 30, with five Group, Belavia, Brussels Airlines, Finnair, lion passengers pass through its mod- Frankfurt, Helsinki and Oslo. Crucially, the flights per week, while Swiss International LOT, Lufthansa, Nesma Airlines, Norwegian, ern terminal building in 2014, a slight but Baltic region’s geographically most central Airlines will start operations between Riga Onur Air, Ryanair, SAS, Smartlynx, Swiss indisputable increase on the previous year. airport is also by far its busiest – out of all of and Zurich three times a week from March International Airlines, Transaero, Turkish Airlines, Recognising the potential, a number of air- the Baltics’ air passengers, 46% fly via Riga 31. Meanwhile, the Russian airline Aeroflot Turkmenistan Airlines, Ukraine International lines new to Riga will start operations at the International Airport. has increased its number of flights between Airlines, Uzbekistan Airways, and Wizz Air. winter/spring 2015 • GATEWAY RIGA • 65 AIRPORT’S MOST AMBITIOUS INFRASTRUCTURE PROJECT EVER Riga International Airport’s biggest construction job since opening in 1974 is near completion. Improved flight safety, enhanced environmental 90-degree taxiway exit from the runway. Others “For example, one of the project’s gains conditions and increased capacity – these are accomplished since then include rebuilding the is increased flight safety in adverse weather the clear benefits of the most ambitious project runway pavement surface, strengthening the run- conditions. Simultaneously, we will carry on the ever attempted at Riga International Airport. way strip and the safety area at the runway’s modernisation works to the airport terminal, the Implementation of the €94.2 million project northern end, constructing an additional rapid exit results of which passengers will appreciate as Infrastructure Development of Riga International taxiway and renovating two more, upgrading the soon as this year.” Airport over the last two years, funded mostly approach lighting system to CAT II and installing Kaspars Ozoliņš, State Secretary of the through the European Union’s Cohesion Fund, taxiway centre-line lights, rebuilding the airport Ministry of Transport remarked, “The EU-funded is resulting in hugely significant reconstruction aprons, building two aircraft de-icing platforms project Infrastructure Development of Riga works on and around the runway. Construction and new rainwater and airfield drainage systems, International Airport is not only one of the works worth around €80 million has been com- and building a vehicle washing hangar, a waste largest projects in the transport sector imple- pleted so far. collection hangar and a new fire-fighting station. mented with the support of the Cohesion Fund The project is the biggest ever to be imple- The biggest share of the construction works in the planning period of 2007-2013, but also mented since the airport was first put into opera- has been made by the companies FCC, Hochtief the most ambitious project in the history of the tion in 1974. Its successful completion means and ACB. Amazingly, runway construction activ- airport’s operations. The project is crucial for that Riga International Airport is upgraded to ity was limited to between midnight and 6am, the economy of Latvia, as air transport has a CAT II international status. This means that on keeping flight delays to an absolute minimum. significant influence on the country’s economic days of poor visibility, for example, flight delays “We have made significant investment in the development and the growth of GDP, which in will be reduced and the safety of airline opera- reconstruction of the aerodrome infrastructure tions will be raised. turn impacts the results of other industries.” that may not be noticeable to passengers yet The project continues into 2015. There will A series of 12 key tasks and activities are very important for flight safety,” said Andris be reconstruction of the concrete pavement within the project were accomplished virtually Liepiņš, Riga International Airport’s Chairman of Apron No 1, which is worn in places, plus simultaneously. The first to be completed was a of the Board. the purchase of a specialised aircraft rescue and firefighting vehicle and additional security equipment. Following the recent completion of additional aircraft stands next to the terminal building, a new pier will also be constructed and seven new jet bridges will then be attached. The result will be a substantial rise in capacity by 2018 and an increase in space for shopping and restaurants. Already reconstructed is the VIP Centre, expanded to 2060 square metres in 2014 and now able to provide speedy services both to Schengen and non-Schengen passengers. Production Check-In Baltic Palasta iela 10, Rīga, LV 1050 Tel: +371 29207271 Magazine reg. nr. 000703023 Editor-in-Chief Justin Walley Contributing writer Anatol Steven Art director Guntis Gvozdevs Publisher Māris Jēkabsons Advertising and Sales Enquiries: maris@gateway-riga.com Tel:+371 29207271 Editorial: justin@gateway-riga.com Comments and opinions: info@gateway-riga.com Website: www.riga-airport.com Gateway Riga is the official airport magazine for RIGA International Airport. It is distributed three times per year. Start circulation 17000. Opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed and do not necessarily reflect the views of the editor, Check-In Baltic or RIGA International Airport. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and illustrations are not accepted. Gateway Riga accepts no responsibility for such materials sent to its office, nor is it liable for loss of, or damage to, such material. All prices are subject to change without notice. Gateway Riga accepts no responsibility for printing errors. Printed by MicroDot, Latvia. Special thanks for help with editorial content and/or providing photo: Marians Pahars, Viktors Sopirins, Latvian Football Federation, FHM Latvija, Zürich Tourismus Media, Irbe Treile, Latvian National Opera, the Red House Agency, Inese Keisa, Makroconcert, Fbi.lv, Latvian Tourism Development Agency, Enars Plinta, Enterprise Estonia, Tallinn TV Tower, Viktorija Toompere, airBaltic, Swissair, Rozengrals, Austin Nicholas, Travel Out There, Diklu Pils, La Daile Spa, Jonathan Spa Estate, Aiga Lapina, ESPA Riga, Olga Stavinska, Wellton Centrum Hotel & Spa, Dina Vjatere, Taka Spa, Liene Pelekzirne, Inchcape Motors Latvia, Jana Garanča, Latvian Automotive Association, Ingus Rutins, Nora Krevneva.