a distorting mirror

FEBRUARY 2011
inflight magazine
Oulu:
Unearthing an Arctic treasure
Copenhagen:
A Love story
The secret world
of fashion industry
Brussels
a distorting mirror
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CONTENTS / FEBRUARY
Oulu: find out about the Arctic treasure
in page 42
4
Editorial Staff
Chief Editor: llze Pole
e: ilze@frankshouse.lv
Editor Ieva Nora Fīrere
e: ieva@frankshouse.lv
Translator, copyeditor and reviser:
Kārlis Roberts Freibergs
Design: Marika Štrāle
Layout: Inta Kraukle
Cover: Alamy
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Baltic Outlook is published
by SIA Frank’s House
Stabu 17, Riga, LV 1011, Latvia
ph: +37167293970
w: frankshouse.lv
e: franks@frankshouse.lv
Director:
Eva Dandzberga
e: eva@frankshouse.lv
Advertising managers:
Indra Indraše
e: indra@frankshouse.lv
m: +37129496966
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Opinions expressed in this magazine
are those of the authors and persons
interviewed and do not necessarily reflect
the views of the editors, Frank’s House, SIA.
All rights reserved. No part of this magazine
may be reproduced in any form without
written permission of the publisher.
Printed in UAB Lietuvos Rytas, Lithuania,
phone +371 29 42 69 61
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Thought The travels of unofficial ambassadors
City Icons Bridges. St.Petersburg
Airport Moscow, Domodedovo airport
Agenda February 2011
Moscow Five places in one day
Design Signs of spring
Traveler A Secret world of the fashion industry.
Agnese Kleina
Interview DINERSart – handmade souvenirs
Review Latest books, movies and CDs
Your next destination Brussels. A Distorting
mirror
Interview Jon Webster. Reflections of
a music veteran
Live Riga Riga Jams
Travel Oulu: Unearthing an Arctic treasure
Travel Copenhagen: A Love Story
15 sheep Nagorno-Karabakh Region, Azerbaijan
Cars Bentley Continental GS and a small dose
of optimism from Detroit
Gadgets New toys for the New Year
Dining – Kaļķu vārti, Blue Cow, 1221 in Riga and
A place where August never ends in Moscow
airBaltic news
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 1
A message from the CEO
Bertolt Flick,
CEO airBaltic
Dear Passenger,
Isn’t it time to get away for a while – just a week or two, to leave behind the darkness
of the grim Northern winter, its coldness creeping up your back, to move from windbeaten streets and icy sidewalks to a warm beach or sunny alpine slope?! airBaltic
gives you the opportunity to do both.
This time of the year, the countries of the Middle East are veritable oasis for the
sun-seeking Northerner. Excellent resorts at affordable prices await you in Lebanon,
Jordan, Israel, Turkey and Egypt, offering you oriental hospitality in exciting
surroundings. In addition to just relaxing under a palm tree, have you ever done some
deep-sea diving in the Red Sea? Or driven with a jeep over the rolling dunes of a sunbleached desert? Or visited a desert camp in the middle of the night, overwhelmed
by the splendour of myriads of stars overhead? No?! The Middle East, the cradle of
our civilization, also presents other attractions. Take the caves of Petra in Jordan, for
example, or the pyramids outside Cairo in Egypt, or the magnificent Hagia Sophia in
Istanbul – each one of these place is well worth a visit. And then we have Jerusalem,
Balbeck, Massada, the Dead Sea, Luxor...
Each winter, the Alpine mountains, be it in Austria, Switzerland, Italy or France, attract
a multitude of tourists from near and far. Moving up by cable-car to altitudes close to
4.000 metres, taking in the solitude of wind-swept slopes covered by pristine snow,
drinking warm Glühwein on sunny verandas, picking out warm pieces of cheese from
kettles of fondue, rushing down steep slopes on skis or snowboards, listening to the
tunes of brass bands or organs in a village church ... tourism in the Alps is getting value
for money. And yes, there are also the mountains, close by and yet so far apart, wild
and isolated, letting your thoughts wander, reflect on life’s meaning. airBaltic takes you
to Zürich, München, and Wien, all three destinations close to Alpine resorts.
airBaltic in cooperation with the International Air Traffic Association (IATA) has opened
a Regional Training Centre for aviation professionals in Riga. IATA, having 230 airlines
as members, represents the airline industry worldwide. airBaltic is proud to have been
chosen as IATA’s partner, becoming responsible IATA sales agent not only for Latvia but
also for Finland, Sweden, Poland, and Slovakia. Training sessions will start this spring,
with over 40 different courses being offered during the course of the year ranging
from Dangerous Goods to Airline Contract Law.
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 3
DETAILS / THOUGHT
Text by Ivonna Veiherte, art exhibition organizer and gallery
owner, Ivonnas Veihertes galerija
The travels
of unofficial ambassadors
About a year ago, I read in the news that airBaltic
had brought a self–portrait by Leonardo da Vinci, the
so–called Lucanian Portrait, from Rome to Riga and then
on to an exhibition in Tallinn. At that time, I thought,
how did that famous painting get “brought” to Tallinn?
As a piece of cargo? As a passenger with its own seat? In
a special package or travel bag? Perhaps in some other
manner? What were the owners’ requirements regarding
insurance, humidity and temperature control?
Recently, my gallery took part in an art forum in India. It
was only then that I gained a sense of what is involved
in transporting art works “in bulk” – starting with the
How did it get “brought”? As a
piece of cargo? As a passenger
with its own seat?
formalities that need to be carried out and continuing
with the works’ careful packaging before they are
shipped off. One of the most important aspects is
finding a reputable and competent transport company
that understands the requirements of shipping fragile
and unique masterpieces. In truth, those who are
entrusted with transporting such works should not
be hardened warriors with nerves of steel, but rather
sensitive art aficionados who are obsessed with the
responsibility of their task.
Even if a work happens to be insured, the complicated
insurance systems rarely lead to losses being fully
covered for such cases when a painting has been
wrapped in plastic, for example, and during a months–
long voyage at sea, has accidentally suffered damages
as a result of exposure to humidity. Maintaining the
proper temperature and humidity level is crucial if one
opts to send a work of art on a long trip by ship, for
example. Fortunately, there are not too many stories
about paintings and other oeuvres being damaged in
this manner.
I heard of one case where a painting was so large that
it didn’t fit through the door of a regular airliner’s cargo
hold. The shippers had to find another plane that was
big enough to carry the monumental work and fly it
to its destination. There have also been times when
a painting’s fragile, ornate picture frame has been
dismantled by the exhibition organizer and taken onto
the plane as hand luggage, with a special request to
the stewards to stow it somewhere in the back where
it doesn’t bother anybody. Glass objects are sometimes
so fragile that they practically have to cradled in the
carrier’s hands.
Clearly art works should travel from country to country
and from continent to continent, for that is how they
can best fulfil their ultimate calling, which is to unite the
people of the world.
When I attend international art forums or meet privately
with representatives of other art institutions, I usually feel
as if I am representing not only my art gallery or Latvian
art, but my country as a whole. I feel like an unofficial
ambassador, especially if am in a far away land where
Latvia’s name is hardly mentioned. Culture really does
transcend language and other barriers; it brings people
of different nationalities closer together. For this reason,
works of art really do need to be incessantly packaged
and transported from one place to the other. They need
to be displayed for the whole world to see! BO
DETAILS / CITY ICONS / ST. PETERSBURG
Bridges
- the backbone of
St. Petersburg
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TEXT By Sergei Timofeyev | Photo TASS
St. Petersburg claims to have more bridges
navigate the city’s waterways with boats and
than any other city in the world – even more ferries instead.
than Venice, Stockholm and Amsterdam.
However, by the mid 19th century, over
130 bridges had been built. Today, the city
Like spinal columns, these structures
has more than 500 water-spanning structures
link the various districts of the city into a
made of various materials, including
single whole. The bridges are, in
fact, the genuine backbone of
The central wood, cast iron, metal, stone,
concrete and even aluminium. The
St. Petersburg.
spans of
bridges have been constructed
A number of them also serve as
the palace in various styles, reflecting the
drawbridges, which means that
bridge are changing architectural trends of the
one would do well to take note of
regularly past centuries.
their scheduled operations. Also
known as bascule bridges, they
raised over Initially, St. Petersburg’s bridges
were a beehive of social activity, as
are usually drawn up late at night,
the Neva
th
after 1 a.m., to let ships pass
River to let noted by one 19 century historian:
“The lower classes of society in
through. If you get carried away
ships pass
St. Petersburg are very fond of the
with your partying or otherwise
through
bridges. They can spend days on
lose track of time, then you may
end chatting with one another and
end up being stranded where you
observing the barges pass by. For Russians,
are until the early morning hours.
bridges are much the same as forums were
Since the foundation of St. Petersburg over
for the Romans.”
300 years ago, a great deal of bridges have
Although nowadays, the city’s bridges
been built, although Tsar Peter the Great,
no longer serve as social meeting places,
the city’s founder, frowned heavily upon
they have become an enduring symbol of
their use – encouraging local residents to
6 / AIRBALTIC.COM
St. Petersburg. The most famous of these is
the Palace Bridge (Dvortsoviy Most), whose
two central spans are regularly raised over
the Neva River to let ships pass through.
Linking the city centre with Vasily Island
(Vasilevskiy Ostrov), it was inaugurated in
1916, at the height of the First World War.
Two months later, the Russian Empire was
no more – a somewhat ironic beginning
for a bridge that was built to link the tsar’s
Winter Palace with the residential and
working-class districts of the city.
The Palace Bridge’s unique drawing
mechanism consists of powerful motors,
monumental gears and thousand-tonne
counterweights, which raise two spans that
weigh about 700 tonnes. Traffic across the
bridge is suspended each night at about
1:25 a.m., after which the central spans are
drawn up at a 45-degree angle. The spans
are lowered again at 4:50 a.m. and motor
traffic resumes at 04:55, bearing cars with
night revellers returning home for a welldeserved rest, as well as dutiful early risers
heading to their workplaces. BO
DETAILS / AIRPORT
Fly to Moscow
Domodedovo and
Sheremetyevo with
airBaltic from
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Moscow’s Domodedovo
Airport is the largest airport
not only in Russia, but in all
of Eastern Europe. Last year,
Domodedovo’s volume of
passenger traffic increased by
nearly 20 percent compared
to the year before, with
more than 22 million people
being served. However,
Domodedovo’s large size and
increasing business volume
are only two aspects of an
extremely versatile airport.
Domodedovo –
a growing hub in Eastern Europe
text By Nikita
Boldin | Photo
Courtesy of
Domodedovo
airport
8 / AIRBALTIC.COM
Domodedovo Airport is rapidly nearing its ambition
Russia that is certified to service that type of aircraft.
to serve as a modern traffic hub for the transfer of
Serving about 60 000 passengers per day, Domodedovo
passengers, as well as for cargo operations between the
has drawn up an ambitious development plan for the
Eurasian and Asia-Pacific regions. Already today, nearly
period up to 2020. This plan includes the construction
80 airlines are offering scheduled flights
of a third runway, the further extension
to Domodedovo, including 36 foreign,
of the airport’s passenger terminal, the
If you are
29 Russian and 12 carriers from the
reconstruction of existing facilities and the
wondering
CIS countries.
construction of new ones.
what souvenir Domodedovo’s passenger lounge features
In addition to the steady growth in its
to bring
business operations, Domodedovo has a
approximately 150 shops, cafés and
home
from
remarkable configuration that makes it
restaurants, which offer Russian, Japanese,
unique among airports. It is the only airport
Italian, Indian and Uzbek cuisine. If you are
Russia, then
in Russia to be equipped with two parallel
wondering what souvenir to bring home
head to the
runways that are positioned two kilometres
from Russia, then head to the Bosco Sport
Bosco Sport
apart, thus making it possible to operate
shop – the official outfitter of the Russian
shop and
them simultaneously, yet independently
Olympic team – and get yourself a lovely
get yourself Cheburashka. The funny, hairy little creature
from each other.
a lovely
The airport is certified to accept nearly
has big ears and a big heart. Cheburashka
Cheburashka
200 types of aircraft, including passenger
is an immensely popular character in
airliners and cargo super giants. In 2009,
Russian children’s literature and animated
Domodedovo’s high-tech infrastructure allowed it to
films. He has quite a cult following and was chosen as
accommodate the Airbus A380, which is the world’s
a guardian angel and mascot of the Russian Olympic
largest passenger airliner, for the first time in Russia.
team. You will be sure to take an immediate liking to
At this time, Domodedovo remains the only airport in
this loveable toy. BO
Attirance spreads its global reach
Nature never fails to impress us
with its magnificent splendour,
and to hearten us with its diversity
of colour, shapes and smells. Each
of us harbours an inner desire to
experience the beauty and majesty
of nature in its full glory. Natural
beauty is genuinely uplifting,
exuding a palpable joie de vivre and
positive energy.
Address: Maskavas iela 332b, Riga, LV1036, Latvia
Telephone: (+371) 67139044
E-mail: info@attirance.com
www.attirance.com
Inspired by nature
Attirance draws the best from the
beauty and bounty of nature,
presenting a superior line of plant
oils, creams, flower extracts and
refreshing aromatic oils. Since its
foundation seven years ago, Attirance
has created more than 260 different
quality products, each with its unique
shade of colour, pleasant aroma and
attractive design, not to mention its
beneficial effects on the mind and
body. Attirance products can now be
purchased in more than 50 different
countries worldwide and will soon be
conveniently available through the
company’s online store.
Attirance seeks franchise partners
For the past three years, Attirance has
been operating in accordance with
a franchise business concept and is
seeking master franchise partners
for the opening of new Attirance
stores in various different countries.
Attirance’s franchise business system
ensures successful sales of its high
quality products, beneficial terms
for Attirance’s partners, along with
a helpful support system, attentive
staff training and guaranteed
profit-making opportunities
within a relatively short period of
time. Attirance has worked out
a programme that has proven
itself on a daily basis and that has
helped company’s partners develop
successful businesses. Attirance
welcomes the opportunity to expand
the network of mutually beneficial
partnerships.
DETAILS / LOCAL AGENDA
FEBRUARY / 2011
Publicity photos
Linda Leen: Concert of My
Best Songs, Arena Riga,
Riga / February 14, 20:00
© Camilo Echeverri
Linda Leen is Latvia’s stage
chameleon. Over the course
of her ten-year career, she has
expressed herself in various musical
genres, starting with a debut in
pop music and continuing with
cabaret, academic, jazz and
Etoile Ballet Gala, Latvian
National Opera, Riga
/ February 21, 19:00
This gala event at the Latvian
National Opera presents a rare
opportunity to see world class
dance stars from various ballet
theatres perform on a single stage.
Among them will be Isabelle
Kylie Minogue: Aphrodite – Les Folies Tour 2011,
Arena Riga, Riga / February 25
During a singing career that has spanned more than two decades,
Australian pop superstar Kylie Minogue has sold more than 68 million
recordings. She has been among the most played music artists on British
radio stations and has released more than 50 singles, many of which are
now known as international hit classics.
Minogue’s new Les Folies Tour promises to be her grandest and most
impressive to date. The singer will kick off a 41-concert itinerary in
Denmark on February 19, in support of her latest album Aphrodite, which
has already made the top of the charts in the UK. Riga will be Minogue’s
fourth stop on an extended journey that will take her all across Europe,
Asia and North America.
“The reaction to Aphrodite has been absolutely incredible and has
inspired me and my creative team to develop a new show that will take
all of us on a euphoric journey of joy, excitement and glamour,” said
Minogue last fall, shortly before the tickets to her concert tour went
on sale.
www.kylie.com
10 / AIRBALTIC.COM
acoustic programmes, including
performances with the country’s
leading symphony orchestras.
The Valentine’s Day Concert of My
Best Songs has all the indications of
being an epic show, featuring tunes
that have spanned Leen’s entire
professional career, and with the
participation of the Latvian National
Opera’s symphony orchestra.
During the concert, Leen will
also sing a number of previously
unreleased songs, as well as duets
from her album Divi (Two) with
guest artists Alain Clark, Goran Gora,
Arnis Mednis and Kārlis Lācis.
As Linda Leen stated in the previous
issue of Baltic Outlook: “I will try to
make sure that this Valentine’s Day
is an extra special occasion.”
Tickets can be purchased through
www.bilesuparadize.lv
Ciaravola and Karl Paquette of
the Paris Grand Opera Etoile, Lali
Kandelaki of the Tbilisi Opera and
Ballet Theatre, Alexander Katsapov
and Zuzana imáková of the Prague
National Theatre, principal dancer
Marian Walter, prima ballerina Iana
Salenko and soloist Dinu Tamazlacaru
of the Berlin Opera, as well as Ulvi
Azizov, a guest performer at venues
in Prague, Bratislava, Kiev and Baku.
The programme will feature such
classical ballet pearls as pas de
deux from Giselle, Don Quixote,
Cinzano and Grand pas classique,
as well as contemporary works by
such top rated choreographers as
John Neumeier, Jiří Kylián, Ben van
Cauwenbergh and Levente Bajári.
Tickets can be purchased through
www.bilesuparadize.lv
Kristina Orbakaite,
Nokia Concert Hall, Tallinn
/ February 13, 19:00
Popularly known as the Princess of
the Russian Stage, singer and actress
Kristina Orbakaite has consistently
shown a passionate devotion to
her craft. It is possible that she has
inherited her strict work ethic from
her mother, the legendary pop diva
Alla Pugachova. Orbakaite has 13
album releases to her name, along
with numerous concert tours and
several movie roles. February will
see Orbakaite on a concert tour that
will take her through the three Baltic
countries, including Tallinn, Estonia,
and Russia.
www.kristinaorbakaite.com
DETAILS / LOCAL AGENDA
Gustav Mahler’s
Symphony No. 8,
conducted by Mariss
Jansons, Concertgebouw,
Large Hall, Amsterdam
/ March 4 and 6
The world class acoustics at the
Concertgebouw in Amsterdam
are so advanced that one can
hear even the quietest whisper.
On March 4 and 6, the celebrated
Latvian conductor Mariss Jansons
Saxophonia international
saxophone music
festival, Riga / From
February 11-20
This year’s opening concert will be
hosted by the renowned Sinfonietta
Riga orchestra, which will perform
oeuvres by Philip Glass, Bob
Mintzer, Frank Martin, and Kurt Weill
on February 11 at the Large Guild
Hall (Lielā ģilde). Other notable
participants include the Latvija
choir, the Riga Saxophone Quartet,
the Rolf Erik Nystrom Trio and the
Deniss Paškevics Trio. The closing
concert on February 20 at the
Large Guild Hall is not to be missed,
with a performance by legendary
American jazz saxophonist Joshua
Redman, Reuben Rogers (bass),
Gregory Hutchinson (percussion).
www.saxophonia.lv
Mariss Jansons
will conduct a performance
of Gustav Mahler’s Symphony
No. 8, with the participation of
the renowned Latvija choir from
Riga, the Royal Concertgebouw
orchestra, the Bavarian Radio Choir,
the Netherlands Radio Choir and a
number of outstanding soloists. This
all star concert is sure to be one
of the main musical events of the
winter season in Amsterdam.
www.concertgebouw.nl
DETAILS / AGENDA
In association with www.anothertravelguide.com
Publicity photos and courtesy of Design Hotels, Carolina Nitsch Contemporary Art and Hauser & Wirth
Paris
Eastern Women Seen by
Christian Lacroix, Musée
du Quai Branly / From
February 8 to May 15
Also called an ode to women from
the East, this exhibition is currently
being held at the Musée du Quai
Branly, which specializes in the
© Louise Bourgeois Trust and Tracey Emin
London
Louise Bourgeois, Tracey
Emin: Do Not Abandon
Me, Hauser & Wirth
London / From February 18
to March 12
Modern art aficionados will be able
to view 16 drawings that were jointly
created by controversial British
contemporary artist Tracey Emin
(b. 1963) and legendary FrenchAmerican artist and sculptor Louise
Bourgeois, who died at the age of
98 in May of 2010. The objects,
printed with archival dyes on cloth,
present an intimate message about
identity, sexuality and loss, themes
that have been at the forefront of
works by these two artists. The
oeuvres date from the last two
years of collaboration between
both women.
In the first stage of their joint
12 / AIRBALTIC.COM
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project, Louise Bourgeois painted
slightly diffuse female and male
torsos with gouache paints on
paper. The works were printed
onto cloth and sent to Tracey
Emin, who completed them with
lines and texts, and then reprinted
them at a studio in Manhattan.
Emin is credited as the author of
this series, while Bourgeois is listed
as the initiator. The artists first met
only three years ago, a fact that
Bourgeois regretted, having wished
that they could have begun their
collaboration earlier. Bourgeois
was pleased with the final result,
saying that the drawings appeared
to have been crafted by the hands
of a single artist, therefore looking
very natural.
Vienna
The Brilliance of an
Era. Art Nouveau
Jewellery from Europe,
Leopold Museum / From
February 25 to June 20
15 Old Bond Street
www.hauserwirth.com
This interesting display at the Leopold
Museum in Vienna is one of the
largest ever to be devoted to Art
Nouveau jewellery. Most of the 220
exhibit pieces have been provided
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“dialogue of cultures.” The showing
presents a colourful display of 150
traditional folk costumes and other
attributes from various part of the
Middle East, including northern
Syria and the Sinai Peninsula. The
curator is French fashion designer
Christian Lacroix, who offers a
unique perspective of clothing as a
form of art, highlighting such details
as needlework, ornaments, colour
and texture. The exhibition begins
with a 13th-century dress once
worn by a small girl and found at
an archaeological excavation site
in Lebanon. Like a genuine fashion
show, it ends with five brightly
embroidered white costumes. The
presentation reveals an array of
surprising facts that are little known
to Westerners, such as the incredibly
lavish and diverse wardrobe worn
by women of the nomadic desert
Bedouin tribe.
37, quai Branly 75007
www.quaibranly.fr
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by the Hessian National Museum in
Darmstadt, which owns an impressive
collection of Art Nouveau items
fashioned by Dutch royal jeweller
Karel A. Citroen. The highlight of the
show is a brooch crafted for French
actress Sarah Bernhardt, with a design
based on sketches by Czech artist
Alfons Mucha.
The exhibition concentrates on the
evolution of Art Nouveau jewellerymaking in Vienna, which bears a
particular signature that distinguishes
it from jewellery made in other
parts of Europe during the late 19th
and early 20th centuries. In 1930, a
group of visual artists named Wiener
Werkstätte propounded the view
that jewellery-making as an art form
should not focus on flashiness and
wealth, but rather on the personality
of its intended wearer. Therefore,
instead of gold and diamonds, the
jewellers of this art community
worked with semi-precious stones
and silver, stating that the main
value in a piece of jewellery lay in its
design and execution.
MuseumsQuartier Wien
1070 Vienna, Museumsplatz
www.leopoldmuseum.org
DETAILS / AGENDA
Stockholm
Nobis Hotel
The owners of the recently opened
Nobis Hotel in Stockholm hope that
it will soon become a modern-day
landmark of the city. Located on
Norrmalmstorg Square, this sixstorey design hotel has 201 rooms
spread out among two historical
stone buildings from the late 19th
century. Indeed, the entire district
consists of stone edifices that
sprung up in this part of Stockholm
during Sweden’s Industrial
Revolution. The hotel’s interior drew
its inspiration from the city’s hazy
and subdued winter light, being
designed by the Swedish architect
and design company Claesson
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Koivisto Rune.
No colour contrasts or conspicuous
luxury details here, only peaceful
comfort brought on by such
natural materials as wood, wool,
leather and stone – which acquire
an additional patina with age.
The reserved elegance of the
hotel’s brown, greyish, beige and
white tones is mixed with a bit
of technological mischief. For
example, guests have the option
of checking in with their cellular
phones, when they can then use to
unlock the door to their room.
Norrmalmstorg 2-4, Box 1616
111 86 Stockholm
www.designhotels.com/nobis_hotel
Self Portrait 1975,
© Robert Mapplethorpe Foundatio
Berlin
Robert Mapplethorpe:
Retrospective, C/O Berlin
/ Until March 27
This retrospective in Berlin
presents 187 works by American
photographer Robert Mapplethorpe
(1946-1989), featuring his early
Polaroids and later still-lifes, as
well portraits of Andy Warhol, Patti
Smith and other celebrities, not
to mention his legendary male
nudes. The scandals associated
with Mapplethorpe’s explicit and
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homoerotic content are only
secondary, with the emphasis
in this exhibition placed on his
adept compositions and technical
perfection. Mapplethorpe’s flawless
technique and seemingly detached
view of his subjects masked the
artist’s turbulent, inner passions. He
died prematurely of complications
brought on by AIDS at the age
of 42.
Oranienburger Straße 35/36
www.co-berlin.com
DETAILS / MOSCOW
TEXT By Nikita Boldin | Illustration by Inga Briede
Moscow. Five places in one day
> 1 Multimedia Art Museum, Moscow the Swedish Acne-brand uniforms worn by the
/ Moscow House of Photography
waitstaff are practically beyond reproach.
Ulitsa Ostozhenka 16 | Metro station: Kropotkinskaya
www.mdf.ru
> 3 Café Pushkin
Since opening its doors 15 years ago, the Moscow
House of Photography has grown to become
Russia’s largest museum of photographic art. To
date, it has amassed 80 000 original film negatives
and positive prints in its continually growing
collection. Since the end of 2010 the museum is
situated in a new building, sharing it with Multimedia
Art Museum, Moscow.
> 2 Strelka bar
Bersenevskaya Naberezhnaya 14, Building No. 5a
Metro stations: Borovitskaya; Polyanka
www.strelkainstitute.com
The Strelka bar is one of the most pleasant places
to go out for a drink in the Russian capital, offering
a stupendous view of the Moscow River and
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. Although Strelka
opened its doors only recently, it has already
earned a hardcore following of regulars, who seem
to have accorded it an almost cult-like status. The
interior, the atmosphere, the cuisine and even
14 / AIRBALTIC.COM
Tverskoy Boulevard 26a | Metro station: Pushkinskaya
www.cafe-pushkin.ru
Pushkin is Moscow’s Number 1 restaurant. Even
its conversion into a popular tourist destination
has not managed to spoil the fact that Pushkin
still offers the best Russian cuisine in the city, as
well as outstanding service. If you don’t feel like
dining in the restaurant, then you can step into the
adjacent café and pastry shop, which offers a variety
of homemade sweets and pastries, as well as the
opportunity to order dishes from the restaurant’s
menu. Try the sauerkraut soup, which is delicious at
any time of day.
> 4 Shop & Bar Denis Simachev
Stoleshnikov Pereulok 12, Building No. 2
Metro stations: Pushkinskaya; Teatralnaya
www.denissimachev.ru
Stoleshnikov pereulok is Moscow’s equivalent
of Bond Street in London. Here one will find
such Western luxury brands as Chanel, Christian
Louboutin, Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton and many
more. However, in the early 2000s, successful
designer Denis Simachev added a new touch by
setting up a shop and bar/club, where one can
purchase “Russian exotica.” It was Simachev who
came up with the idea to manufacture a T-shirt
bearing the portrait of Vladimir Putin (which one can
purchase for a mere 13 600 RUR or 340 EUR). The
bar serves daytime meals and becomes a nightclub
during the evening hours. Be prepared for face
control at the entry on weekends.
> 5 Bolshoi Theatre
Teatralnaya Ploschyad 1 | Metro stations: Okhotniy Ryad,
Teatralnaya | www.bolshoi.ru
This fall, Moscow’s famous Bolshoi Theatre is
scheduled to reopen its doors after receiving an
extensive facelift. A grand gala concert will take
place on October 2 to celebrate the occasion.
In the meantime, the Bolshoi’s opera and ballet
performances are being held on the New Stage in
the adjacent building. Try not to miss the showings
of Alban Berg’s opera Wozzeck (directed by Dmitri
Tcherniakov), as well as the ballet evening featuring
Rubies (choreographed by George Balanchine). BO
Secret
Love
Austrian enamel jewellery
specialist FREY WILLE
believes in the joy of living
the good life; and this
philosophy is never more
prevalent than at Valentine’s
Day. This special occasion fills
the heart with love.
How better to express
this love than with the
appropriately named
Secret Love collection from
FREY WILLE. This successful
collection stands for
unforgettable moments
in love.
1
3
9
DESIGN © FREY WILLE
2
4
5
7
6
8
1. Pedant Luna Piena | Rings: 2. Diva 3. Ultra | 4. Earrings Cabochon
| Clasp Bangle (S/M/L): 5. Contessa | Bordered Bangle (M/L):
6. Diva 7. Miss | 8. Watch Rectangular | 9. Pedant Grand Cascade
Gold sits delicately alongside blacks, greys, baby pinks and
various candy colours. Precious and elegant, this is FREY WILLE
at its loving best.
The FREY WILLE artists emphasize the feeling of luck, love and joy
in every design. With its unique diversity of colours the Secret Love
collection is testament to immaterial values that money can’t buy. With
its pastel coloured, delicate tones and hues, this design counteracts the
sheer, bright, colourful nature of the original Secret Love collection.
www.frey-wille.com
vienna, austria
Rīgā: Vaļņu ielā 10 | Tel. +371 6 72 13 017
Details / FebRuary
American inventor Thomas
Edison was born in Milan, Ohio.
Throughout his lifetime he acquired
over 1,200 patents including the
incandescent bulb, phonograph
and movie camera. Best known for
his quote, “Genius is one percent
inspiration and ninety-nine percent
perspiration.” By the way, Alexander
Graham Bell applied for his patent
on the telephone, an “Improvement
in Telegraphy,” on Valentine’s
Day, 1876.
Photo Corbis
February
www.historyplace.com
Thomas Edison’s Patent Application for the Light Bulb.
Source: America’s Historical Documents
11th of February, 1847
„Gravitation is not
responsible for people
falling in love.”
Museum of the Twentieth Century
(Museo del Novecento )
This new museum opened its doors at the end of 2010 in the
Piazza Duomo, right in the heart of Milan. It is housed in the
Palazzo dell’Arengario, which was built during the Mussolini
period and refurbished over a three-year period under the
direction of architects Italo Rota and Fabio Fornasari. As its
name suggests, the Museo del Novecento is devoted to the
discovery (and rediscovery) of 20th century art. The current
exposition has more than 400 oeuvres by a number of world
famous artists, including Pablo Picasso, Paul Klee, Georges
Braque and Wassily Kandinsky. Its principal focus, however,
is on Italian art, featuring the works of such prominences as
Amedeo Modigliani, Giorgio Morandi, Giorgio de Chirico, Lucio
Fontana and others. Entry to the museum will be free until
March 1.
Palazzo dell’Arengario, piazza Duomo
www.museodelnovecento.org
Albert Einstein
Verona
The Italian city of Verona, where Shakespeare’s lovers Romeo
and Juliet lived, receives about 1,000 letters addressed to Juliet
every Valentine’s Day.
Go out ice skating! According to studies Finns were the first to
develop ice skates some 5,000 years ago from animal bones.
This was important for the Finnish populations to save energy
in harsh winter conditions when hunting in Finnish Lakeland.
The first skate to use a metal blade was found in Scandinavia
and was dated to 200 and was fitted with a thin strip of copper
folded and attached to the underside of a leather shoe.
DETAILS / DESIGN
Text by Santa MeikulAne | publicity photos
Signs of
spring
Simply for
inspiration
Wink,
design by Bruno
Ninaber van
Eyben
Wink is a vase with
a natural tension: it
seems to have been
pinched together at
the top. The designer
himself describes
this vase as a bucket
that’s been pinched
together.
i www.ninaber.nl
Deukbeker,
design by Rob
Brandt
Inspired by the familiar
Dutch plastic coffee
cups that you just have
to squeeze, if only to
hear their crackling
sound, this “crushed” cup
was born. Ceramicist
Rob Brandt has been
making these with
pleasure since 1975.
Capri Multi,
design by Busk+Hertzog
i www.robbrandt.com
A chair with strong and expressive design. Launched for the first time
ever at the Salone Internazionale del Mobile 2010, the Capri Multi
provides perfect comfort in a new definition of the lounge chair. With
its four legs in chrome and relatively small size, the Capri Multi is meant
for break out areas, small meeting areas and waiting areas. It provides
a strong alternative in the hospitality sector as a comfortable chair
for rooms and other spaces. The Capri Multi is made of high-quality
moulded foam, with a chromed base.
i www.busk-hertzog.dk
Pinch,
design by Jos van
der Meullen
At regular intervals, the
designer harvests the wood
with which he makes these
small, unique monuments.
The memo holders
are perfect for keeping
your favourite photos
prominently on display.
i www.josvandermeullen.com
Penny table,
design by
Busk+Hertzog
This nice little side
table goes well with
Busk+Hertzog’s other
collections of furniture.
Although its strong vertical
lines are designed to
match the stitching of the
award-winning Plasma
benches, the table looks as
beautiful alone as with the
company’s lounge chairs
and sofas. The material
is of lacquered steel and
is available in black and
white, as well as in black
chrome and chrome.
i www.busk-hertzog.dk
18 / AIRBALTIC.COM
Pure,
design by Willem
Noyons This carafe’s design arises
from that of a glass, which
is of the same height as
the designer’s hand. The
glass’ upper and lower
diameters are related to
its height in accordance
with a measuring
system developed by
the Benedictine monk
Dom Hans van der Laan.
The beauty of the pieces
comes from their pure
proportions.
i www.noyons.com
DETAILS / TRAVELER
Agnese Kleina,
fashion journalist
The secret world
of the fashion industry
Text by Anete Kukite | Photos Courtesy of Agnese Kleina
Agnese Kleina is the editor in chief of a Latvian interior design
magazine, as well as an active fashion blogger. Her blog
www.whimsicalagnesiga.com is widely followed by fashion lovers.
She herself calls it “a journalist’s chronicle of befriending fashion while
trying to outrun it.” Kleina attends fashion shows all over Europe.
You travel to other cities to attend fashion shows.
How much of this is work and how much of it is just
a hobby?
It is a hobby that takes a lot of work. I put a lot into my
blog, and through my blog I have already been able to
attend two fashion weeks in Paris. I was invited to help
some Latvian designers display their collections in a
showroom.
What does attending a fashion show involve and
what do you, as a spectator, get out of it?
For me, attending a fashion show is much more than
just dressing up nicely and sitting in the front row like
a pretty-looking accessory. If that was all that I did,
then I would only see the surface of what goes on in
the industry. Both times when I was in Paris, I spent the
whole week at various fashion events, from early in the
morning until late in the evening. It was like going to
work. When you take part in the showrooms, you really
20 / AIRBALTIC.COM
see how the fashion business works. You see how hard
it is to make a name for yourself. You really have to
struggle to present yourself successfully in a market that
is already oversaturated.
I dress up for every fashion show that I attend, because
each show is a celebration, with music, performances
and a special set design. The show might last only last
15 minutes, but is a real celebration of fashion. Ordinary
mortals can find it quite difficult to obtain access to
such events. You need an invitation or press card.
Occasionally, if you dress up really colourfully, then you
might get let in simply because you look interesting,
and can add something to the overall atmosphere of
the show. The fashion world is very much like a royal
court. Sometimes you have to play by the rules, but
sometimes you can get in by breaking them.
If you get invited to a fashion party or reception, then
don’t stand alone the corner of the room. Try to make
conversation with the other guests and expand your
circle of contacts. The more you meet with people and leave an
impression, the greater your chances of getting a personal invitation
from a designer to attend his or her next show.
Both the designers and their PR firms want the front rows where the
audience sits to be filled with attractive, prominent and interesting
people – almost like a colourful accessory to the show on the catwalk.
What fashion oases do you recommend visiting in Europe?
In London, there are three markets worth visiting – Portobello,
Spitalfields and Brick Lane. In Paris I would recommend two interesting
vintage or second hand stores on the rue Tiquetonne: Episode and
Kiliwatch. Episode (12-16 rue Tiquetonne) has decently priced items.
Kiliwatch (64 rue Tiquetonne), on the other hand, is called a „second
hand store for the bourgeois middle class” by Parisians, due to its
high prices. Nevertheless, the quality and selection of the clothing
is quite good there. The store is always crowded with people, and
photographers can often be seen standing at the entrance, ready to
take street style photos of anyone who catches their eye.
In Riga there is a similar atmosphere at the following three vintage
stores – Pērle (Tērbatas iela 65), Retrospectro (Z. A. Meierovica
bulvāris 12) and Bonēra (Blaumaņa iela 12a).
The fashion world is very much
like a royal court. Sometimes
you have to play by the rules,
but sometimes you can get in
by breaking them
The exciting thing about markets and vintage stores is that you
never know what you will find, since each item of clothing is one
of a kind. It is also interesting to speak with the store owners
themselves, whom I have gotten to know personally in Latvia. Once
I went to a flea market in Paris at the Porte de Clignancourt (les Puces
de Saint-Ouen), with a small still life of a snow-covered spruce
tree pinned in my hair. The bored salespeople expressed their
compliments, then started to ask me where I am from and what
I do. Small talk like that helps you get to know the people of the
place that you are visiting. I got a better feel of the spirit of Paris that
way. The atmosphere is always more personal when you get into a
conversation with the locals. It adds extra value to your visit, be it at
the marketplace or at a store. BO
DETAILS / SHORT INTERVIEW
Text by Anete Kukite | photos Courtesy of DINERSart
DINERSart –
handmade
souvenirs and
accessories by
Latvian artists
A new series of unique bronze zodiac pendants made by DINERSart and
designed by Roberts Diners has been available on airBaltic flights since
the fall of 2010. The DINERSart creative workshop was founded by the
well-known Latvian sculptor Roberts Diners and his mother, artist Lilija
Dinere, who explains how DINERSart came to cooperate with airBaltic in the
manufacture of these chic new souvenirs as representations of Latvian art.
How did DINERSart come into being?
I work as a book illustrator, painter and graphic artist,
while my son Roberts has always been interested in
making sculptures from a combination of different
materials. It’s not too often that members representing
different generations of the same family can work
together on joint artistic projects, each in a different
sphere, thus complementing each other. In our
case, sculpture is integrated with painting and other
forms of art.
We began our joint project with airBaltic a year ago,
when the airline announced that it would like to
cooperate with Latvian artists in the production of
souvenirs that are different from those that one usually
finds in the shops of Riga’s old town and city centre. At
first, we made hand-painted silk scarves. Each is one of a
kind, with its own story to tell. Then, in cooperation with
Agita Krastiņa, airBaltic’s inflight service manager, we
decided to create a line of modernized zodiac pendants.
They are presented in a small display box, from which
the passengers can select the zodiac sign of their choice.
What are the latest DINERSart creations?
The patinated bronze zodiac pendants came out last
year and are among Robert’s latest works. Their design
was drawn from the 12 traditional astrological signs
and combined with Roberts’ individual artistic style.
The artist managed to insert a dose of humour into
his creations, imbuing each symbol with an additional
sense of individuality. The zodiac pendants are offered
together with a durable and natural leather strap, which
means that they can be worn right away. Each pendant
also comes in its own gift box, where it can be stored
while it is not being worn. BO
For more information about DINERSart accessories, please consult
your onboard menu card or look at www.dinersart.lv.
22 / AIRBALTIC.COM
DETAILS / REVIEW
Text by Pauls Bankovskis | Publicity photos
Nathan Myhrvold,
Chris Young, and Maxime
Bilet. Modernist Cuisine:
The Art and Science of
Cooking
The Cooking Lab, 2011
It took 2400 pages to incorporate
the vast wealth of knowledge
imparted by the chefs of such
world famous restaurants as el
Bulli, Fat Duck and Alinea. Their
specialty is molecular gastronomy,
which the book’s authors prefer
to call “modernist cooking.”
Although many of the book’s
recipes would be very difficult to
try out at home (unless you had
access to enzymes, centrifuges
and other laboratory contraptions),
a number of the chefs’ observations
and recommendations could
prove useful in any household.
Furthermore, the book’s authors
provide a fascinating insight into
the processes that occur to foods
when they are boiled, fried, smoked
and frozen. The most enterprising
Laima Slava (comp.) Auseklis Baušķenieks
Neputns, 2010
Auseklis Baušķenieks (1910-2007) was one of Latvia’s most popular and
unusual 20th-century artists. His ironic sense of humour was a hallmark of
his works, and the pointillist technique that he adopted made his paintings
instantly recognizable – as well as easily distinguishable from the works of
other painters. While Bauš[ķenieks could not quite be called an avant-garde
dissident, his works did betray a palpable opposition to the absurdities of
daily life in Soviet-occupied Latvia. Baušķenieks’ paintings were crafted to
put a smile on people’s faces, while simultaneously inducing them to deeper
reflection. This volume provides an extensive retrospective of the artist’s
long and illustrious career.
www.neputns.lv
24 / AIRBALTIC.COM
readers might go ahead and follow
the book’s directions for frying
mussels in their own juice, or for
boiling a salmon in its vacuum
packaging. However, a further
measure of determination will be
needed to purchase this extensive
volume, for once it becomes
available in bookstores later this
year, it will be offered for a hefty list
price of approximately 600 USD.
www.modernistcuisine.com
Lithuanian Folk Songs in the United States
Folkway Records, 2010
Last year, Folkway Records (the non-profit record label of the Smithsonian
Institute in Washington, DC) released a compilation of Lithuanian folk songs
sung by first and second generation immigrants to the United States. The
a capella recordings were made only ten years after the end of the Second
World War, in 1955, and are replete with the unique tonality of Lithuanian
folk music that has fascinated both ethnomusicologists and folk music
lovers alike. The lack of instrumental diversity in this CD does not limit the
excitement generated by the varied vocal performances of the traditional
folk singers, who passionately recreate the songs of an occupied homeland
that a number of them have only recently fled.
British Cinema Classic B Film
Collection, Vol. 1 (Tread Softly
Stranger / Siege of Sidney Street
/ Frightened Man / Crimes at the
Dark House / Hooded Terror /
Girl in the News).
VCI Entertainment, 2008
This DVD release of old and obscure British
crime movies (1938-1960) features the Siege
of Sidney Street (1960), which is based on a
true event that happened 100 years ago in
London. On January 3, 1911, a group of selfproclaimed anarchists from Latvia holed themselves up in an apartment after a
botched robbery at a jewellery store. When the police came to arrest them, a
six-hour gun battle ensued, leaving both criminals, as well as a fireman, dead.
The police operation was headed by home secretary Winston Churchill, who
later became prime minister and led the United Kingdom during the Second
World War. The perpetrators of the gunfight had fled to England from Latvia
after the failed 1905 Revolution. The event shocked the city’s inhabitants,
giving rise to discussions about reviewing Great Britain’s immigration policies
and imposing tighter entry controls.
Olga Shishkina. Con Brillio
ERP Music, 2010
The gusli is considered to be one of
the most ancient Russian musical
instruments. Similar to the zither or
psaltery, it is closely related to the
Latvian kokles, Lithuanian kankles,
Mobile micropayments
Flattr.com
Bloggers and social network users
usually don’t earn any money while
online. Some of them do receive the
occasional donation, but most don’t
make a living off of their hobby. One
might think that they simply fritter
their time away, with little tangible
results. The creators of the Flattr
website are determined to change
this scheme of things by asking
Estonian kannel and Finnish kantele.
It roots go back about 1000 years,
although some claim that they
extend even further, to Ancient
Greece and China.
Aged only 25, Olga Shishkina (born
in 1985 in Leningrad, now Saint
Petersburg) is already a virtuoso
player of all of the aforementioned
instruments. She has performed in a
variety of concert venues, including
acclaimed opera recitals, together
with prominent folk music ensembles
and symphony orchestras. However,
Shishkina’s passion for the gusli is
not restricted to playing it. She also
produces classical music recordings,
and this new Estonian release
provides a splendid insight into her
skills and talents.
users to share not only their content
(photos, video films, diary entries,
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but also some of their cash. Users
voluntarily donate a small monthly
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all of the other user sites that they
choose to access. They, in turn, can
also receive donations when other
Flattr users click on their profile.
www.flattr.com
YOUR NEXT DESTINATION
Text by Una Meistere
Photos by Ainars Erglis
Brussels,
a distorting mirror
26 / AIRBALTIC.COM
YOUR NEXT DESTINATION
Bad luck, somebody has already
taken the Anothertravelguide
brochure about Brussels,
but don’t worry, all the
information is also available at
ANOTHERTRAVELGUIDE.COM in
cooperation with airBaltic.
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 27
YOUR NEXT DESTINATION
The flea market at the Place du Jeu de Balle
It seems that the entire aristocracy
of Brussels gathers here, strolling
among the mountains of goods
It’s late afternoon, the moment in Europe when it’s hard to tell
whether it’s still day or already evening. For perhaps twenty minutes
I’ve been standing in line at the legendary Brussels eatery Maison
Antoine. Dampness begins to bite through my scarf. Nearby, a man
has improvised a little market, hanging out rows of second-hand
jeans. The queue isn’t long, with only maybe eight people in front
of me, but it moves very slowly. That’s hardly surprising, considering
that once they get service everyone seems to shop as if they’d been
starved for a month, snapping up five, six or eight bags of frites
each. In terms of food and drink, Belgium is renowned for three
things – beer, moules (mussels) and chips or French fries (frites).
The eatery – actually no more than a kiosk, at Place Jourdan I – has
been here since 1948, when Antoine Desmet began cooking in a
shack left behind by the occupying Germans. It is no longer a mere
shack, however, but a construction of marble, metal and glass.
Maison Antoine is open every day (and into the night – until one in
the morning and two on Fridays and Saturdays), and there’s almost
always a queue. Potatoes are cut and fried on site (concessions to
modernity mean that it’s now and electric process), then served in
wax paper bags with your choice from among the umpteen sauces.
One can also obtain meats grilled on skewers or shrimp croquettes.
The sauces are not what matters here, though. Chips may not be
my favourite food and I surely cannot say if the frites at Maison
Antoine truly are the best in the world, but a visit here is definitely
not to be missed. Everybody queues up – aristocrats and eurocrats,
clerks, students, and plebes, gays and families with children. After
getting their frites, they take them (in copious quantities) to one of
the surrounding cafés – eating Maison Antoine’s food is permitted
in all of them as long as you buy a beer (or juice, or wine). The
view is unbelievable – there’s nary a free table in any of the nearby
cafés and every table bears the wax paper bags and beer. In the
28 / AIRBALTIC.COM
An oyster man at the Place Sainte-Catherine
summer, the benches in Place Jourdan are also occupied by potato
eaters – though tradition says one should really eat frites whilst
standing. I recently read that Maison Antoine takes in about 3,500
dollars a day, which judging from the eternal queue does not seem
incredible. Another square that draws people for culinary reasons
is Place Sainte-Catherine. Near the church there one can almost
always find a man selling oysters. There’s a striped screen and a
green chequered table, but no tables to sit at and no chairs. Diners
manage as best they can. The oysters are shucked in front of you
(half a dozen run 8 to 16 euro, depending upon the variety) and are
placed on a plate with ice and lemon. A glass of white wine for only
2 euro and nothing more is needed to achieve bliss. Across from
the oyster stand is an equally famous eatery called La Mer du Nord
(rue Sainte-Catherine 45). Somewhat more civilised, it is a former
fish shop that has been transformed into a restaurant specialising in
so-called finger food. Unlike “the oyster man,” La Mer du Nord also
has quite an extensive wine list.
On the left side of the Ste.-Catherine church you can also find
the sole remaining pissoir in Brussels, by the way. In what is today
Europe’s capital, such places were constructed only in 1845 for
moral and hygienic reasons. Until then, as in many another city,
people took care of there needs in the street. Though the location
of this relic may strike us as strange today, back then it was
common to build them in well-trafficked places – near schools,
churches, and market squares – to educate the public.
The atom, flea markets and art nouveau
Despite the clichés, it would be a bit foolish to consign Brussels
to its stereotype as a city meant only for eurocrats and clerks, its
sole tourist route running from Grand-Place and the MannekinPis (the fountain with its statue of a urinating boy) and ending
at the European Parliament. EU bureaucrats and their families
actually make up only about a tenth of the population. The
symbol of the city for most locals is the Atomium, the premier
insignia of modernism. Andre Waterkeyn’s 102-metre tall Atomium
weighs 2,400 tonnes and is one of the most imposing sculptures/
installations ever constructed. It can also be seen as a symbol of
the intense faith people in the mid-20th century placed in science
and progress. Today it offers a unique panoramic view and serves
YOUR NEXT DESTINATION
The Grand-Place
The Maison Antoine
as a special attraction, especially if you are travelling with children.
Another symbol of Brussels is certainly the classic art nouveau
architecture of Victor Horta. The very first art nouveau building in
Brussels, designed by Horta, was built in 1893 – the famous Tassel
(6, rue Paul-Emile Janson). This was followed by his masterpiece,
the Solvay mansion, in 1894 the Van Eetvelde mansion in 1895,
and many another stunning building into the new century. One
of Horta’s most significant innovations was building rooms around
a central atrium, allowing far more natural light to enter than in
other, more traditional late 19th-century houses. Soon after the First
World War Horta began a yet more grandiose project, planning
the Palais des Beaux-Arts that is now the Bozar arts centre. It was
meant to be part of his even more ambitious vision for an urban
development project called the Mount of the Arts. The plans hit a
snag because the King did not want his view of the city obscured.
Because of this the buildings were designed under strict height
restrictions, mostly below ground. Horta’s dream was to build
the first cultural centre in Europe in which the most diverse arts
would find a home under a single roof. The doors of the Palais
des Beaux-Arts were opened in 1928, with three concert halls,
exhibition space, lecture halls and one of the best shops for art
books in Europe. The building has eight levels and when you move
from space to space you may not even realize that in reality you are
climbing a hill called the Mont des Arts.
is a place where one can acquire most anything on earth – from
rare old pearls to sheer junk. Most things here are arrayed on the
cobblestones, and patrons practically crawl about examining
the wares. The comparison may be odd, but on Sundays the area
around the Place du Jeu du Balle reminds of the Marais in Paris in
some way – all of the little shops are open, everything is slightly
shabby and somewhat alternative, and the neighbourhood seethes
with life. This is especially true if you head for rue Haute nearby,
one of the oldest streets in Brussels. On Sundays, people pretty
much promenade here – some seeking a late breakfast in one of
the countless cafés and others visiting the colourful shops.
The more you wander around Brussels, the more it seems the city is
like a carnival mirror – it is a city of many faces, most of them invisible
at first. In a sense the metropolis consists of nineteen separate towns,
each of them with a different rhythm and atmosphere. The area
around rue Antoine Dansaert, for instance, is the epicentre of Belgian
design and style. Though Brussels is certainly no Paris, London or
Milan in the atlas of European fashion, it does have a concentrated,
crazy creative energy that can infect you like a virus. In that sense the
fashions themselves are also viral, and once you’ve fallen for them
there is no cure. Furthermore, the signature designs of the Belgians
cannot possible be confused with those of other designers due
to their strong aesthetic qualities and peculiar harshness. Belgian
design offers a kind of anonymity – it bears no familar logos – but it
is simultaneously instantly recognisable.
In the 1980s rue Antoine Dansaert was a rather obscure street. It
was not notable for anything in particular until 1984, when Sonia
Noël opened the first store featuring Belgian design – Stijl. By now,
Stijl has become a required destination for connoisseurs. There’s a
reason for that – almost anyone who knows fashion beyond the big
names like Chanel, Dior and Saint-Laurent has heard of the “Antwerp
Six” – Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries van
Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs, and Marina Yee, and of the
triumph of Belgian design in the 1980s. Sonja herself can also be
dubbed a legend, since she was the first to invest in Belgian design
by creating a space where its brightest stars could be displayed –
both the classics and rising stars. When I first came here seven years
ago, Sonja took me upstairs to a room full of samples and told me
about the triumph from an insider’s point of view.
Design and the flea market
Brussels is famous for its antique shops, too, and if you are here on a
Saturday or Sunday it would be almost unforgivable not to go to the
renowned Place du Grand Sablon, where there is an antiques market
on weekends from nine in the morning. It seems that the entire
aristocracy of Brussels gathers here, strolling among the mountains
of goods and greeting the purveyors like old friends. It seems, too,
that those who shop here are true connoisseurs of what’s on offer –
and so much is on offer, from Louis IX period chairs to fully certified
objets d’art. At the heart of the market an old woman sells escargots
that you can enjoy with a glass of white wine.
The legendary Brussels flea market Place du Jeu de Balle in the
former working class district of Marolles is very different from
Place du Grand Sablon. Chaotic and full of all sorts of freaks, this
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 29
YOUR NEXT DESTINATION
In 1984, Stijl became the first Belgian
designer store in Brussels and has practically
become an obligatory stopping point for fashion connoisseurs
Belgian fashion designers are
characterised by their strong
personalities
“Back then nobody knew about the designers we talk about today,”
Sonja said. “In the 1980s Belgium announced a campaign with
the goal of promoting Belgian design. Belgium has always had
an advanced textile industry, but its costs were rising steeply at
the time; due to globalisation, commercial brands were seeking
cheaper labour around the world – primarily in Third World
countries. The industry was in steep decline, and with its special
“Textile Plan” the government attempted to restore its former
status. One of the ideas was to promote young designers who had
recently graduated from the institute of design. A competition
called the Golden Spindle was set up. Anyone could participate –
but only the best would be selected, of course. The jury included
celebrities like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Romeo Gigli, guaranteeing
international resonance. The Golden Spindle was won by one
designer after another -- Ann Demeulemester, Dirk Birkemmbergs,
Dirk Van Saene...
“The world began to talk about the ‘big six,’ but it’s really
something of a myth. The myth was born when the winners of
the competition were invited to participate in the London fashion
show Olympia. They shared expenses because it was cheaper.
Though their collections were actually totally different from one
another, it was in London that the phenomenon of the six took
hold. And though that era is formally over and each has gone his or
her own way (Marina Yee, for example, has left the fashion industry
entirely), the legend continues to follow them.”
Despite the differences in their styles, however, it’s impossible to
deny that they do have some things in common. Belgian fashion
designers are characterised by their strong personalities – by the
power of the vision with which each sees fashion. It must also be
said that despite globalisation and a sometimes thorny struggle
for survival, most Belgian designers still retain their independence.
30 / AIRBALTIC.COM
“That’s one of the principal differences between them and their
colleagues elsewhere, who work under the wings of large groups
and whose work is often influenced by commercial strategy.
There’s also a philosophical difference – Belgian designers feel that
their clothes can be worn all of the time. They don’t divide their
collections by evening wear and daytime clothing, or sportswear
and classic dress. One could call it a radical approach to fashion.
This especially applies to theose who are Flemish – they have an
innately mutinous attitude toward the classic ways of wearing
fashion,” Sonja says.
In Brussels this autumn, I met Sonja again – in her newest store,
which has only very recently opened its doors. It’s called Haleluja
and is located at Nieuwe Graanmarkt 6 – more than a shop, it is
a hymn to eco-fashion and socially responsible design in all its
aspects. Some of the clothing is made with 100% natural and
chemically untreated materials – organic cotton, wool, soy, and
milk. Other items rely upon recycling as a philosophy.
Sonja says that to her mind, Haleluja is the future of fashion.
The idea for the store came into being in recent years, watching
the debuts of brilliant young designers whose threshold for
ecologically friendliness is set as high as their bar for quality and
design. Haleluja also serves as a showroom for new European
designers, testifying to the fact that “green fashion” is not only
environmentally friendly and socially responsible but also
fashionable, “in,” and simply cool.
When I ask Sonja who, to her mind, is the brightest star in the
firmament of Belgian fashion at this instant, she says without
hesitation – Tim Van Steenbergen, calling him the best kept secret
in the world of Belgian design. Tim is from Antwerp and began
his career at the eyewear brand Theo. By now he has designed
costumes for several productions at La Scala and has a collection
one can view at Stijl.
Just around the corner, about ten paces from Haleluja, the concept
shop Mapp not long ago opened its doors at Leon Lepagestraat 5.
This is a place for mostly new but already known designers. The
cream of the acme, perhaps – the work of Alexander Wang, Henrik
Vibskov, and Chistophe Lemaire can be found here. This is also
where you can find diverse but fantastic CDs, books on style, and a
wide selection of alternative niche magazines.
YOUR NEXT DESTINATION
The Kat en Muis childrenswear boutique
Right around the corner – about a hundred metres further, in a
historic building, at rue de Flandre 114, is the flagship store of
Maison Martin Margiela – the first in the chain’s global empire of
design. Like the white logo of the brand, the shop, too, is white –
its interior is white and there is no sign – simply a white doorbell.
The heart of Belgian fashion
Those who wish to seek out the true soul of Belgian fashion and
style should get on a train at the central station and head for
Antwerp, 50 kilometres away. It is the cradle of the Belgian style
and a new, as yet uncrowned capital of European fashion. The
Royal Academy is at the very heart of it – that’s where “the six”
got their start, as did many others well-known in the fashion
world. The museum of fashion under its wing – MoMu – is
no less well-known, though it opened only in 2001. It has
already hained renown for superb exhibitions and its excellent
bookshop. Belgian design is definitely not cheap, but those in
the know have a secret – the fashion houses hold periodical
fashion stock sales where one can get the previous season’s
clothing at half price or less. The next stock sale will take place
in April; for further information see www.ffi.be/en/mod_news
About 20 kilometres from Antwerp one can find yet another
pilgrimage site for fans of Belgian fashion – Depot Pierre. Once
you follow the directions at the website (www.depotpierre.
be), winding through the small, industrial town, you will arrive
at the outskirts and find a nondescript parking lot. Its owners
are graduates of the Royal Academy of Art. They know most of
the Belgian design world personally and they buy the previous
season’s items directly from the warehouses. The selection is
incessantly changing and with luck you can find truly incredible
bargains here. The shop is open on Wednesdays, Fridays and
Saturdays from 2:00 pm to 6 :00 pm. The proprietors are the
very essence of hospitality and will give you directions to the
next great secrets of the Belgian fashion world. In the end you
will feel like you’ve been given a puzzle on a scavenger hunt.
One path leads to another with lightning speed. The only
decision you have to make is to let it happen. BO
YOUR NEXT DESTINATION
If you have
in Brussels
one day
Definitely visit the Royal Museum
of Fine Arts (Musee Royaux de
Beaux-Arts de Belgique), which
is certainly the best known and
richest of Belgium’s museums.
The entrance with its allegorical
sculptures representing the fields
of music, architecture, sculpture
and painting leads you into the
main museum building, designed
by architect Alphonse Balat and
constructed as the Palace of Fine
Arts with the personal support
of King Leopold II. Completed
in 1887, it’s the home of the
Museum of Ancient Art. There are
also the Modern Art, the Antoine
Wiertz, the Constantin Muenier
and, since 2009, the Belgian
surrealist master, Rene Magritte’s
museum (Magritte Museum, rue
de la Regence, 3; www.musee-
magritte-museum.be) under the
aegis of the Museum.
If you take your children to Brussels
with you, a visit to the Belgian
Comic Strip Centre (Centre Belge
de la Bande Desinee, rue des Sables
20) is a must, even more so, for its
location in a very special building –
a warehouse designed by the
most famous Belgian Art Nouveau
architect, Victor Horta. Plus, you
can find out about a special art
form here that typifies Belgium –
the comic. The art of the comic
developed rapidly in Belgium
prior to the Second World War and
flourished noticeably in the 1950’s.
There are two recognized “schools”
of comics – the French and the
Flemish. The most important
author among the French
comics, is Herge, who created
the legendary Tintin, whereas the
Flemish school’s most well known
name, Willy Vandersteen, created
Spike and Suzy (Suske en Viske).
Enjoy a lunch at L’Idiot du Village
(rue Notre-Seigneux, 19). This little
restaurant in a small side street
in the Marolles District has been
at the same site for 20 years now
and long ago transformed from a
fashion weakness into a fashion
classic. With a slightly kitsch, but
unbelievably cosy interior full of
antiques, it has a great, family
atmosphere and meals prepared
with loving care.
In the evening, head for Belgium’s
most famous opera house, La
Monnaie. The Belgian Royal Opera
has distinguished itself since
the time of its director Gerard
Mortier for its experimentation.
He transformed La Monnaie into
one of Europe’s, and definitely also
the world’s most innovative opera
theatres.
It was at Brussels’ La Monnaie that
the idea came about to invite
Italian director Romeo Castellucci
to produce Richard Wagner’s
farewell opera, Parsifal, with
Wagner’s masterpiece being his
debut in opera direction. Don’t
miss the opportunity of seeing it!
Performances take place on 3rd, 6th,
8th, 11th, 15th, 17th and 20th February.
If you can spare the energy and
want to sample some night
life – Brussels’ famous L’Archiduc
(rue Dansaert, 6-8; www.archiduc.
net) jazz club with its art deco
interior, almost unchanged since
opening in 1937, is open till five in
the morning.
around it are also open on
Saturdays. Take lunch at the
stylish and comfortable Cantine
de la Ville (rue Haute 72; www.
cantinedelaville.be) with its tasty
food and very reasonable prices
(vegetable soup for 6 euros).
Brussels is renown for its antique
shops, with a visit to the famous
Place du Grand Sablon antique
market being a local weekend
ritual. Right next to the Sablon
Church, it opens every Saturday
and Sunday at 9.00am.
Later take a leisurely stroll to the
L’Orangerie du Parc D’Egmont (Parc
d’Egmont; www.restaurationnouvelle.be) – one of the best
kept local secrets. Secret, because
if you didn’t know about it, you
couldn’t imagine there was a
park in this little street among
the classic Brussels buildings,
not far from the Palais de Justice.
There is a restaurant in its
neoclassicism style orangery, the
terrace of which is one of the
most desirable places in the city
in summer. The panorama with
the green park behind the large
windows is also magnificent at
any other time of the year too.
Brunch is served here on Sundays
from 11.30am until 3.30pm (price
per person – 25 euros).
One of the main city museums,
Bozar or the Palais de Beaux –
Arts ( 23, rue Ravenstein; www.
bozar.be), located in a building
designed by that famous Belgian
Art Nouveau architect, Victor
Horta, is open on Sundays until
Sunday in Brussels
Sundays are the days for heading
for the legendary Brussels flea
market at Place du Jeu de Balle.
The earlier you arrive, however,
the more likely you’ll go home
32 / AIRBALTIC.COM
with a real treasure.
Don’t miss an amble down the
nearby rue Haute, one of Brussels
oldest streets. The colourful
little stores and antique shops
6pm. On the 18th February Bozar
opens its doors to an extensive
retrospective by Luk Tuymans, a
famous Belgian, one of the most
highly respected artists of the
21st century.
Don’t leave without dropping
into the Bozarshop – the
most comprehensive art and
design bookshop in Brussels
(www.bozarshop.be) in the wings
of the Bozar. Open each day from
10.00am – 10pm.
Time for dinner at the Belga
Queen (32, rue du Fosse-auxLoups; www.belgaqueen.com),
a restaurant in a former
18th century bank building which
should be visited, if only for a
peek at the interior.
If you are in Brussels for
three days
You’ll find Antwerp, the cradle of
Belgian design (and the diamond
industry) only 50 kilometres
or a 40 minute train ride from
Brussels. A city where a fashion
phenomenon was born in the
mid 1980’s, the like of which was
never before seen in fashion
history – “The Antwerp Six” (Dries
Van Noten, Ann Demeulemester,
Martin Margiela, Dirk Van Saene,
Dirk Birkemmbergs, Walter Van
Beirendonck). The “Six” made
fashion an inseparable part of
Antwerp and part of the general
image of Belgium. Among other
things, it’s one of the few cities
in the world offering its guests
not just an excursion along the
paths of its all time most famous
resident - Rubens, but also the
so-called “Antwerp Fashion Walk/
Map”. The latter includes the
city’s better known museums
and galleries, as well as Belgian
fashion designer shops, the
majority of becoming tourist
destinations in themselves.
Shops, well worth a visit for a
taste of Belgian design:
Ann Demeulemeester, Verlatstraat 38;
Coccodrillo, Schuttershofstraat 9;
Louis, Lombardenvest 2;
Dries Van Noten Het Modepaleis,
Nationalestraat 16;
Walter, St. Antoniusstraat 12;
Elasa, Nationalestraat 147.
It’s certainly worth arriving in
Antwerp by train. The station
building which, from the outside,
looks more like a palace than
a railway station, is also known
as the “train cathedral” and was
designed by architect Louis
Delacenserie. It was built from
1895-1905 and 20 different types
of marble and stone were used
in its construction. The author of
the metal and glass cupola over
the train platforms was Clement
van Bogaert. Regardless of how
the 21st century traveller now
travels, arriving here you really
feel that time has stood still for a
moment and that a bulky retro
style suitcase would be the most
appropriate accessory.
This year Antwerp was also
named the European Youth
Capital. This event will be
celebrated in the city from
March to the 20th November,
with a grand Pop Up Festival
taking place on 5th March at the
Antwerp Railway Station building
(www.aeyc2011.be).
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OUTLOOK / INTERVIEW
Reflections
of a music industry veteran
Text by Guna Zucika | Photos Corbis and Courtesy of Jon Webster
Freddie Mercury Performing at Wembley, 1986
Jon Webster is probably one of the bestinformed people on the planet about
the music industry in Great Britain. For
the past 35 years, he has worked for
only two people – himself and Richard
Branson, the famous British billionaire
entrepreneur, who founded the legendary
Virgin chain of music stores and
recording label. Webster is a regular and
sought-after speaker at music industry
conferences all across the world.
34 / AIRBALTIC.COM
The building on 26 Berners Street in London’s West End
is familiar to anybody who has had anything to do with
the music industry in the UK, as it houses a number
of important organizations from that field, including
the British Academy of Songwriters, Composers and
Authors, as well as the Music Publishers Association. It
is also the place where Webster now works as the CEO
of the Music Managers Forum, and where his extensive
experience in the music industry serves him well.
“I grew up in Portsmouth on England’s southern coast.
I was very fond of music and when the time came to
decide which university I would attend, I made my
choice based on one sole criterion – the city had to
have a Virgin record store. I had yet to set foot in such
OUTLOOK / INTERVIEW
a store and was very eager to finally do so,” Webster
recounts.
That was in 1972, when only five cities in Great Britain
met his strict and strange university attendance
standards. Webster opted for Birmingham.
“As soon as I arrived in the city, I headed straight to
the Virgin store. The feeling was indescribable. I was so
happy!”
During the three years that Webster spent in
Birmingham, he organized concerts at his university
and started to write music reviews so that he could
obtain free records.
“After finishing university, I didn’t have the faintest idea
about what I would do and where I would work. On the
last day of my studies, I paid a visit to the Virgin record
store that I had come to like so much. There, I saw an
advertisement announcing a job vacancy at a Virgin
shop in Hull, a small town on England’s east coast. To
be honest, that wasn’t the greatest place to live in.
Nevertheless, I opted to go there and work for awhile,
until I decided what I really wanted to do with my life.
Since my mother was employed at a bookstore, I did
have some ideas about retail trade. As things turned
out, I have never worked anywhere outside of the
music industry since then.”
Webster spent six years working in the Virgin record
store network, starting as a storekeeper’s assistant
and continuing as a store manager, until he became
the main purchase consultant for all of the company’s
stores in the UK.
String of hits
“At that point, I felt that I had no further room for
advancement. When I announced my intention to part
ways with Virgin, Richard Branson’s business partner
Nik Powell asked me why I wanted to leave and what I
planned on doing. I told him that I wanted to work as a
sales manager in a recording company. Three months
later, I got the job that I had coveted, at Virgin Records.”
Shortly after starting work in his new capacity in 1981,
one of the first songs that Webster sought to promote
was Virgin’s first smash hit, Don’t You Want Me by the
Human League. The song reached Number 1 on the UK
pop charts. As Webster, recounts:
“At first, Virgin Records had a hippy image, yet it also
released punk music by such bands as the Sex Pistols.
Then, starting in the 1980s, it experienced great
success with a number of pop and rock groups. In
1982, we had a number of very good and successful
groups under our wing, including Simple Minds, Japan
and Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark. That was also the
year when Culture Club became an overnight sensation,
filling all the big arenas, followed by Genesis, UB40 and
Heaven 17.”
For a while, Virgin Records became the top recording
company in the UK. Webster continued to climb the
company’s career ladder, becoming Virgin’s director
of international relations, and later the head of the
recording company itself.
In 1989, Virgin Records released Phil Collins’ fourth
studio album ...But Seriously, which was a worldwide
hit, partly because several of its songs addressed such
sensitive political and social issues as homelessness.
In Webster’s opinion, the serious themes in Collins’
material were the main reason why the album was
unjustly denied that year’s BRIT music award.
Alternative music award
He therefore came up with the idea of founding an
alternative award, the Mercury Music Prize (now the
Barclaycard Mercury Prize).
Jon Webster
Technology is developing
at breakneck speed. It may
seem peculiar, but some
things that we now take
for granted have been
around with us for only a
very short time
“I was inspired by the Book Council’s campaign to
choose the 20 best young authors of the year in Great
Britain. The idea of the Mercury Music Prize was to
have independent professionals choose the year’s best
album in Great Britain and Ireland. I went with that idea
to the BPI, which is the UK’s record industry trade body.
They told me to get back to them once I got some
sponsors. After I found some sponsors, they told me
that they wanted the prize to be awarded under their
stewardship. Naturally, I turned their offer down.”
“Of course, any award is subjective, since it is chosen
by people who are subjective. The first Mercury Prize
was awarded in 1992 to Primal Scream. Many of the
subsequent winners have been relative unknowns,
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 35
OUTLOOK / INTERVIEW
whose careers have received a boost from
the free publicity and increased interest in
their work.”
When Richard Branson sold Virgin Records
in 1992, Webster decided to quit the
company, but continued to assist it as a
consultant, or, in his own words, “to work
as an intermediary between the company’s
new management and the music artists
and their management.”
“I continued to work with Peter Gabriel,
UB40, Genesis and Mike and the Mechanics.
I had already established a very good
relationship with the manager of Genesis,
whom many people seemed to fear. Peter
Gabriel’s manager was also a tough cookie,
so to speak, and UB40 simply refused to talk
to anyone else besides myself.”
Webster oversaw the marketing for these
acts and helped them to develop their
international profile.
Challenges of digitalization
In 2005, after 13 years of working for
himself, he was appointed Director of
Independent Member Services at the BPI.
In 2007, he embraced the artist-centric
future when he became CEO of the Music
Managers Forum (MMF).
“I have always been convinced of the need
for such organizations as the BPI and the
MMF. They present the cheapest and most
effective way to address the industry’s
needs and problems. It would be much
more complicated and expensive for each
recording company to go out on its own,
when many of the companies share the
same challenges.
“Our second function is to provide training
and courses, which is really important
right now, at a time when digitalization is
changing the way that the music industry
operates. You need completely different
business models.”
Regarding the challenges of digitalization,
Webster says:
“People tend to forget that the Industrial
Revolution, which began in the 18th
century, is only half-way completed. The
process is still going on. For example, it
took 18 years for the Sony Walkman to
capture 10 percent of the market. It only
took three years for Ipod to do the same.
Technology is developing at breakneck
speed. It may seem peculiar, but some
things that we now take for granted
have been around with us for only a very
short time.”
Another consequence of digitalization is
that many more albums are being recorded
than before, and that many of these
would probably not have been recorded
previously.
“Anyone can sit by the computer in their
bedroom, and sing: ‘My baby, she just left
me and I’m feeling so blue!’ It is so easy to
make such recordings and to post them
on the internet, making them available to
anybody who cares to view them. There is
a lot of music out there, but that doesn’t
mean that it is all good, as there are no
quality controls.”
Harder to make it big
With the decline in recording sales and
corresponding budget cuts at recording
companies, musicians are given mush
less time to prove themselves. If their first
recording isn’t commercially successful,
then they may not get the chance to
record a second album. And even if their
first album has been a money-maker, there
is no guarantee that the second release
will attract the same amount of interest.
That makes it much more difficult for music
groups to establish a long-term career:
“One of the most pertinent questions in
the music industry today is: Who will be
tomorrow’s stadium fillers? Sure, there are
a few groups who play the large stadiums
and bring in considerable revenues, but
who will follow them?”
Such current-day stadium fillers and music
giants as U2 or REM had the luxury of
building their careers incrementally. Their
breakthrough albums, with which they
achieved worldwide fame, were either their
third or fourth studio recordings, which
gave them the time that they needed to
mature and develop.
“I suppose that if U2 were to start their
career today, then things would be much
more complicated for them. Nowadays,
a group in a similar situation, with only
limited acclaim for their first albums, might
easily decide to throw in the towel very
early in their career. The band members
would probably break up and go their
separate ways. But look at how long U2 and
REM have lasted. They were founded more
than 30 years ago and are still going strong.
That might not have happened today. Kind
of strange, isn’t it?” BO
OUTLOOK / PROMO
Blowin’ in the Wind:
Windmills in the Baltics
In order to see the essence of things, the connections between them, the
right point of view and knowledge is necessary. The right kind
of illumination lets us discover new opportunities.
This is the case in life, business, and the environment.
In the Baltics, there are so many nuances and tiny, valuable details.
We’d like to help you see them.
Now and henceforth we will illuminate the things, places, and phenomena
around us. Let’s switch on the green light, so we can discover
the Baltic environment.
These will be stories about the forests, skies, wind, and water.
Let’s begin with the wind and wings.
Yours, Estonian, Latvian & Lithuanian Environment (ELLE)
OUTLOOK / PROMO
38 / AIRBALTIC.COM
The windmill is an integral part of any pastoral
landscape. Gently turning in the breeze, these mills
possess a stark beauty that immediately draws the eye,
inviting a moment of quiet contemplation. Surely this is
thanks to the huge rotating blades, called vanes or sails,
that crown a windmill and harness the invisible energy
of the wind. A soft whoosh can be heard as the sails cut
through the air, and perhaps the attraction of windmills
is their close approximation to the freedom of flight, the
aerodynamic perfection of birds or airplanes soaring
types of windmills are smock mills, with octagonal or
hexagonal sides constructed of horizontal wooden
boards and topped by a rotating cap, which could be
adjusted to the direction of the wind; tower mills, with
cylindrical stone or brick foundations gradually sloping
upward to the adjustable wooden cap; and post mills,
the oldest type of mill, where the entire body can be
swiveled around a single vertical pole or trestle, in order
to meet the wind.
The Baltic states have never had any lack of windmills,
through the atmosphere.
Although windmills have now become mere symbols
of the past, evoking romantic images of simpler times,
they historically had specific functions and were an
important element in the life of agricultural economies.
Since as early as the first century AD, windmills were
used to convert wind energy into useable power. The
rotational motion generated by windmills was used
to turn machinery that crushed and ground grain
into flour, pumped drinking water from underground,
ensured the operation of sawmills and smithies, and
drained excess floodwaters from areas below sea level.
In order to perform these functions, the turning blades
must transfer their captured energy to an elaborate
rotating mechanism housed inside the body of the
windmill. The shape and structure of this body can be
very diverse, depending on the era when it was built
and the final use that it guarantees. The three main
many of which were built completely of wood—another
natural resource, like the wind, that has always been in
ample supply here. The region has always had a strong
agricultural economy, and windmills were employed to
crush the wheat and rye that was later turned into the
region’s famous black and rye breads. With the advent
of industrialized farming, however, and particularly the
introduction of new sources of energy like steam, diesel
power, and internal combustion engines, windmills
were abandoned and replaced with other, more modern
machines. The final stroke came with the advent of
collective farms in the Soviet period, when mass
production demanded only the most efficient resources.
Today, most formerly functioning windmills have
either disappeared or fallen into disrepair. But a recent
resurgence of interest in these historical structures
has led to a movement to repair their soaring sails and
patch up their stately brick, stone, and wooden bodies.
OUTLOOK / PROMO
Using resources available from historical preservation
their wedding day. The most popular windmills are
societies and European Union regional development
found in Darbenai, Obeliai, Šeduva, Telšiai, Stultiškiai,
funds, these enthusiasts have transformed windmills
Stačiūnai, and Šiauliai.
into museums, workshops, and even cafés. The
In the upper reaches of the Baltic States, the coastline is
revitalization of these formerly indispensable elements
broken up into numerous small islands. These, of course,
of past economies—similar in this regard to water
belong to Estonia, the northernmost of the three Baltic
towers and lighthouses—has also led to a boom in
countries. These islands were naturally extremely windy,
windmill tourism.
and therefore ideal locations for windmills. The largest
Visitors to the Baltic states have numerous options for
Estonian island, Saaremaa, had of the most windmills,
visiting recently revitalized windmills and seeing how
most of which were built in the post mill style so they
they once worked. In Latvia, windmill enthusiasts must
could be easily rotated to meet the swiftly changing
look no further than the Latvian Open-Air Museum, a
coastal wind currents. At one point, Saaremaa and
fifteen-minute taxi ride from central Riga. The museum
its neighboring island, Muhu, had more than eight
is home to four restored windmills, dating from the
hundred windmills. The highest number of preserved
nineteenth century, which were transported to the
windmills can be found in the village of Angla, where
museum starting in the 1930s. Each of the mills was
five historical mills are arranged in a row on a hillside
constructed in a different style and used for different
that held up to nine windmills as recently as the 1920s.
ends. They include a six-sailed smock mill,
Today, we are seeing a new type of windmill
Today,
with a stone foundation, wraparound
appearing on our landscapes. These are wind
terrace, and wide sails that powered multiple
turbines, which convert wind energy into
most
grindstones; two early examples of post mills,
electricity. Unlike their low-lying predecessors,
formerly
with a tall oak pole situated inside the mill’s
functioning wind turbines can reach heights of up to
square wooden body; and a smaller mill with
windmills ninety meters. The blades are rotated by
a rounded, thatched body and eight wooden
special computerized motors, and turn
have either at speeds up to 320 kilometers per hour.
sails, light enough to be turned by hand.
Latvia’s most famous windmill can be found in disappeared Though wind turbines present several distinct
or fallen
Drabeši, near the city of Cēsis in the territory
advantages—they capture free wind energy
of the Gauja National Park. Built in 1852, the
into
without depleting resources or producing
Drabeši windmill has a sloping stone tower
harmful byproducts like greenhouse
disrepair
foundation and an adjustable wooden cap, as
gases—they can also have a downside: wind
well as several windows to illuminate the fourturbines can be noisy, they create flickering
story interior. The interior and grounds of the windmill
shadows on the surrounding landscape, and multiple
is now a museum, with information about the history
turbines are needed to produce the required amounts
of the windmill and the Drabeši Manor, to which it once
of electricity, resulting in the expensive construction of
belonged. Visitors can examine the fully renovated
sprawling wind farms.
grinding equipment and machinery, as well as other
Though they possess both positive and negative
authentic tools and implements, in order to get a better
aspects, wind turbines, like the windmills that preceded
idea of how the windmill functioned.
them, are best constructed in areas with strong wind
Farther south, the long western coastline of Lithuania
currents, as well as coastal regions such as the Baltic
has provided the country with an ample supply of wind
states. And they are increasingly becoming a fixture
blowing in from the open sea. This wind energy was
in our rural landscapes. Perhaps future generations
naturally harnessed by windmills, particularly in the
will transform the wind turbines of the present day
western and northern regions of the country. Of course,
into museums and exhibits, using them to understand
in order best to capture the wind, these windmills were
how people lived in the early twenty first century? If
built atop the highest hills in the country, and therefore
they do, they will continue to be amazed by the same
are starkly reminiscent of castles perched above the
thing that enchants us about windmills: their sleek,
surrounding landscape. This romantic grandeur also
aerodynamic form and their contribution to sustaining
makes windmills a favorite stop for young couples on
the communities that built them. BO
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 39
Riga Jams
at the Saxophonia
Festival
Text by Rihards Kalnins
PhotoS Courtesy of Latvijas Koncerti
The saxophone is forever linked to our definition of cool. Think of
jazz legend Charlie Parker, blaring away onstage at a smoky club,
or former U.S President Bill Clinton, dressed in dark shades and
playing his smooth tenor sax for voters, or even cartoon character
Lisa Simpson, jamming on her oversized instrument with her
sunglasses-and-beret-clad idol, “Bleeding Gums” Murphy. The
saxophone evokes images of hot jam sessions, crowded bars,
moonlit nights on rooftop terraces, and, most above all, that
characteristic wail—the coolest sound in music.
40 / AIRBALTIC.COM
But the cool tones of the sax don’t just have a place
in jazz and popular music. The saxophone is also
an integral part of symphony orchestras and other
classical ensembles, and composers from Claude
Debussy to Philip Glass have written a wealth of music
showcasing the instrument’s distinctive sound. Since
the early twentieth century, the sax has been featured
as an important solo instrument in performances by
prestigious orchestras all over the world. The primary
reason for this widespread use of the saxophone is the
instrument’s great versatility and its expansive range of
tone and timbre.
In honor of this most versatile of instruments, the city
of Riga hosts a biannual festival called Saxophonia. This
year, the festival will be held from February 11–20 at
musical venues all over the Latvian capital. Saxophonia
will show off the wide range of styles and the diversity
of genres in which the saxophone can be played, by
presenting concerts of classical and symphonic music
as well as jazz and pop. The festival will also feature
world premieres of original compositions, and offer the
inventive pairings of disparate ensembles which have
become the trademark of local music festivals.
The founder of the festival is Artis Sīmanis, a member
of the Riga Saxophone Quartet and rector of the Latvian
Academy of Music. His classically trained quartet will
perform on February 12 at a concert featuring the
renowned State Choir Latvija, led by conductor Māris
Sirmais, and the classical organist Kristīne Adamaite.
The concert is also the world premiere of an original
composition by Latvian composer Kristaps Pētersons,
entitled Hell, with excerpts from Dante’s Divine Comedy.
The venue for the premiere might therefore come as a
surprise: St. John’s Church, in Old Riga. But this unique
merging of the saxophone, church organ, a classical
choir, a medieval church, and a work called Hell will
certainly make for a memorable evening.
In addition to Sīmanis, Latvia’s other great saxophone
virtuoso is Deniss Paškevičs, whose high-flying musical
explorations have made him the country’s premiere
jazz musician and a respected musical educator. At this
year’s Saxophonia Festival, Paškevičs will perform with
his own sax trio, beneath video projections of paintings
by Latvian artist Vilnis Heinrihsons, in an audio-visual
performance aptly named “When Two Worlds Meet.”
Saxophonia will also offer performances by other local
Latvian soloists and ensembles, including the all-female
quartet n[ex]t, the piano-sax-and-marimba crossover
group Xylem Trio, and the talented young soloists Gints
Pabērzs and Arvīds Kazlausks.
The Saxophonia Festival regularly features guest
musicians from abroad. This year is no exception. In
February, audiences in Riga will be treated to concerts
by the Rolf-Erik Nystrøm Trio from Norway. Nystrøm has
played the sax in many different ensembles, performing
everything from classical to jazz to folk, but this is his
first group with traditional-music vocalist Unni Løvlid
and West African guitarist Becaye Aw. On February 20,
the festival will offer its final concert, with the worldrenowned Joshua Redman Trio from the United States.
Born in California and currently residing in New York
City, the Grammy-nominated Redman has been heavily
influenced by the jazz and bebop greats, such as John
Coltrane and Ornette Coleman, and is widely considered
the modern-day incarnation of these legendary jazz
masters. Since the early nineties, Redman and his
various ensembles have performed with musicians
ranging from Dave Brubeck and B.B. King to The Rolling
Stones and Stevie Wonder.
Riga’s Saxophonia Festival mimics the diversity of its
honored instrument by offering a range of venues for
performances. Besides St. John’s Church, concerts will
be held at Spīķeri Concert Hall near the Central Market,
in a red-brick warehouse dating to the mid-1800s; the
medieval Great Guild concert hall in Old Riga, whose
history stretches back to the fourteenth century; and
the Great Hall of the esteemed Latvian Academy of
Music, where many of the local performers received
their formal training. But by far the most intimate venue
will be the trendy bar and club Piens, on the outskirts of
central Riga, where guests and performers will gather
for a large open jam session on February 17 at nine p.m.
Though at first glance the saxophone doesn’t seem
characteristic of the Latvian capital, closer inspection
proves that Riga is in fact very similar to this most
Riga Saxophone Quartet
versatile of instruments. Riga’s long and diverse history,
vibrant bicultural population, lively mix of architectural
styles, and openness to change and future possibilities
all combine to make it the perfect fit for the many-sided
saxophone. And the Saxophonia Festival this February
will make it clear to audiences that the city can be both
classically serious and fashionably hip—in other words,
Riga, like the saxophone, can unleash some seriously
cool sounds.
For more information about the Saxophonia Festival, please
visit www.saxophonia.lv.
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 41
OUTLOOK TRAVEL / FINLAND / OULU
Oulu:
Unearthing an Arctic
treasure
With one foot on Lapland’s doorstep and the other on the Gulf
of Bothnia, Oulu has taken the best of both worlds to inscribe its
own, trademark signature. The region shines as a bright northern
star, be it the sky of tourism or business innovations.
42 / AIRBALTIC.COM
Text by Ieva Nora Firere | Publicity photos
My
first impression of Oulu was given by the
friendly customs and border patrol detector dog, who
wagged his tail excitedly. As it turned out, warmheartedness was the defining feature of entire trip
to Oulu – its high northern latitude and cold winter
weather notwithstanding.
While waiting for my baggage, I flipped through the
pages of OuluOn magazine, where a sentence caught
my eye. “Oulu has learned to take excellent care of its
visitors.” I wondered if that was just a standard phrase
that any city’s marketing publication would print.
However, I would soon discover, on more occasions than
one, that the magazine’s claim was right on the mark.
With a location at the same northern latitude as
Iceland’s capital of Reykjavik, and where the average
winter temperature hovers at about minus 10 degrees
Centigrade, Oulu is home to an incredibly hardy,
sincere, hospitable and straightforward people.
Perhaps that is why this relatively small city of 140 000
inhabitants has been so successful with all kinds of
innovations, and why it has managed to set a solid
name for itself on the world stage.
Oulu claims to be a gateway to the Arctic, which
is quite understandable, since the term “gateway”
implies being open. With one foot on Lapland’s
doorstep and the other on the Gulf of Bothnia,
Oulu and its surroundings excel in the specialties
of both geographic regions. Tourists will be able
to enjoy the classic selection of activities offered
by Lapland – including Northern Lights holidays,
husky and snowmobile safaris – as well as traditional
Ostrobothnian offerings like seaside cottages, fishing
and events on the beach.
Big things out of nothing
Oulu really stands out when you look at its economic
and business indicators: it is one of the world’s leading
centres for wireless technologies, including Nokia,
Nokia Siemens Networks and Polar Electro R&D and
manufacturing, and is ranked among top 28 IT cities
worldwide. It also has the best wireless competence in
Finland. Oulu also boasts the second busiest airport in
the country, which will double its capacity by the end of
this year. Oulu seems to have succeeded in unearthing
its treasures, quite literally, as with the archaeological
excavations at the Kierikki Stone Age Centre.
Furthermore, the people of Oulu have also managed to
make big things out of nothing, as with the annual Air
OUTLOOK TRAVEL / FINLAND / OULU
Guitar World Championships. What started off as a joke
15 years ago has now become a major international
festival that draws considerable media coverage and
attracts more than 10 000 curious visitors every year.
Oulu’s touristic development experienced a
tremendous boost at the end of the 1980s, when
many locals place winter tires not only on their cars,
but also on their bicycles.
It is hard to say what came first to Oulu – its
innovation-based businesses or its university-based
research programmes. One thing is clear: the support
of the city council to these initiatives proved very
beneficial, for now Oulu is home to both a recognized
university with 16 000 students, and a network of
creative, internationally renowned enterprises.
City of festivals
Pikisaari Island
Nallikari Winter village
the Tietomaa science centre opened its doors to the
public, and the renown Eden spa centre began offering
its wellness services. In addition, most of the region’s
cycle paths, which have a total length of more than
400 kilometres, were also constructed. The paths are
maintained throughout the entire year and are deemed
to be among the best in all of Finland. For this reason,
bicycle travel is a common means of transport here,
even in the wintertime. That means that every autumn,
44 / AIRBALTIC.COM
Oulu’s spirit of initiative and entrepreneurship goes
back at least as far as the 18th century, when tar was
the black gold of the region and when the Oulu River
was the lifeblood of the region’s economy. Tar was
exported down the river through Oulu to various
international destinations. At one point, the region
was the largest tar supplier in the world. The historic
riverside manors by the river’s shores represent these
years of prosperity very well. Some of them, such
as Maikkulan kartano and Merilän kartano, are still a
local pride. Activities for individuals and groups can
be booked through GoArctic there.
The manor owners travelled frequently and
incorporated the furniture, souvenirs and other
items that they purchased abroad into their homes,
as attested to by the Russian, Swedish and Central
European influences in the buildings’ interiors. Their
cooking, however, maintained a distinctly local
touch – so much so, that common labourers asked
to be fed salmon (an abundant local food now
considered to be a delicacy) no more than three
times a week.
In short, Oulu has been a hub of trade and
transportation for quite a long time, which has helped
it to consolidate its position as a thriving northern city
by the sea. Today, people from the neighbouring (and
sparsely populated) region of Lapland admit that they
sometimes travel to Oulu to get the feel of a real city.
Now, as before, Oulu’s native inhabitants are
continuing to develop the potential of their city. It all
lies in the simple notion of cooperation. Last year, the
organizers of several small arts and culture festivals
got together under a single umbrella and this year, by
pooling their resources, they hope to turn the entire
month of August into one long festival “marathon”.
From classical music to the darkest rock, from circus
to cinema, from theatre to dance, and from literature
to the visual arts – all will be represented in a wide
array of activities.
The notion that one must move continually forward
is also practiced by the locals in other spheres
of life, too. They will advise you before crossing a
frozen lake on a snowmobile – if you hear a cracking
sound, then press down on the gas and surge full
speed ahead! BO
OUTLOOK TRAVEL / FINLAND / OULU
MUST–SEE IN THE OULU REGION
FOR FAMILIES
Science centre Tietomaa
It takes only a couple of minutes to understand
why Tietomaa – Oulu’s “hands on” science
centre – is the city’s most popular tourist
destination. The average length of a visit is four
hours, as time seems to stand still there. Rule
No. 1 implies that everything has to be touched.
The exhibitions (Illusions, Gravitation, Great
Inventions and Astronomy, to name a few) are
located on several floors, but none has managed
to exceed the popularity of the 4th floor and its
Sporttimus exhibition, which includes a 3D ski
jump simulator and the opportunity to change a
race car tire. Make sure to take the glass elevator
to the top of the tower, as the splendid view is
worth even a queue.
Although the admission is free for children aged
five and under, parents will probably find it too
hard to resist the temptation to spend at least
a few euros in the wonderful souvenir and gift
shop, where one can purchase all kinds of exotic
items, such as a rubber cactus that “grows”
overnight after having been watered like a plant.
www.tietomaa.fi
Iso–Syöte
cita
In Oulu and its surroundings, the landscape
is as flat as a pancake. A bit further north
towards Lapland, however, the terrain is already
more rugged. The closest fells or tunturi (i.e.
mountainous landscapes) are a two-hour drive
away, in Syöte. While the 30-year-old Iso–Syöte
winter resort is smaller than more northern places
such as Levi, it offers a more intimate atmosphere
and practically the same types of winter activities,
which usually last until mid-April. These include
snowmobile rides, husky safaris, snowshoe hiking
and ice fishing.
The main activities, of course, are downhill skiing
and cross-country. Skiers have 16 slopes to
choose from, with special consideration given
to children and snowboarders. Accommodation
options range from fell–top hotels to traditional
kelo cottages (made of mature, full round pine
trees) and a suite in ice igloo. The owner of
the resort is a creative man with new exciting
development plans to serve tourists even better in
the future. During the winter season, a regular ski
bus runs between Oulu and Iso–Syöte.
www. experience-isosyote.fi
OUTLOOK TRAVEL / FINLAND / OULU
FOR SPORTS LOVERS
Rokua
Not only are Rokua’s Health & Spa centre and national park located close
together, they both work hand in glove. For that reason, Rokua can actually
be placed under several labels, including nature, sports, health and history.
Rokua Geopark
Rokua National Park is one of the most recent members of the Unesco
Geopark Network. Eskers (gravel-like formations similar to moraines) form
the basis of its terrain, a remnant of the Ice Age. A number of depressions
from that geological period have become crystal-clear lakes, with age-
old forests of stunning beauty to hike through, some of which lead to the
hidden Poikajoki River canyon. Last year, this unique combination of natural
features induced Unesco to accord Rokua the status of a Geopark, making it
the world’s northernmost Geopark.
The Geopark designation implies an additional obligation to showcase the
local cultural heritage, which is why cultural exhibitions can be seen at the
Suppa information centre. The centre’s friendly staff will also help you to
book outdoor activities and rent equipment for snowshoe hiking, crosscountry skiing, ice fishing and Nordic walking.
Health & Spa
The massage and treatment therapies of Rokua’s Health & Spa go back
several decades, when it began to treat Finnish veterans of the Second
World War. Now, however, visitors of all ages and from all countries are
welcome. Following the completion of a 10-million-EUR renovation project
just two months ago, everything in the Health & Spa centre is once again
sparkling and new.
With pine forests all around, the air is particularly crisp, fresh and clean,
providing added value to the beneficial effects of the centre’s treatment
options, which include pools, massages, beauty therapy, health coaching
and outdoor activities. The centre also has a great catering service that
offers delicious food, and can accommodate 360 people at a time.
www.rokua.com
www.rokua.fi
Ice hockey at the Oulun Energia Areena
As this is the home arena of the Oulun Kärpät team, which has won several
championships in the Finnish Hockey League (SM–liiga), try to catch at least
one hockey match during your visit. Local tourism companies have recently
started adding ice hockey to their tourist packages, and for good reason.
The Finns are almost as crazy about hockey as the Latvians, so head to the
arena for some great emotions.
www.oulunkarpat.fi
46 / AIRBALTIC.COM
OUTLOOK TRAVEL / FINLAND / OULU
FOR CULTURE AND HISTORY AFFICIONADOS
Oulu Museum of Art
Kierikki Stone Age Centre
The Oulu Museum of Art is a buzzing centre of activity for artists from
Northern Finland. The light, spacious and modern museum actively
cooperates with other museums in Finland, such as the Kiasma Museum of
Contemporary Art in Helsinki, as well as international art institutions. At the
end of this year, the museum will host ARS 11, one of the most important
contemporary arts events in Finland. This year’s focus will be on new Finnish
jewellery art and clothing design, as well as on young Finnish artists. Until
April 21, visitors can see an exhibition entitled Chaos of the Senses, which
explores the many ways in which people use their senses. The museum’s
café is worth a visit of its own, as Irma Mannonen, the “lady of the house,” is
a master baker. Her delectable tiramisu, for example, is sure to teleport you
straight to Italy.
While Rokua’s natural scenery has been formed by the Ice Age,
Kierikki focuses on life in the Stone Age. Its reconstructed Stone
Age village shows how people once lived in prehistoric Finland,
how they made fire and how they processed their food. Visitors can
even participate in ongoing archaeological excavations. The more
adventurous can take part in Kierikki’s Primitive Surviving Project,
which is held regularly. The next project session will take place from
February 7–25. Here, one can directly experience the harsh living
conditions faced by our ancestors and see how they adapted. The
project is quite popular and has seen a rising demand by both local
and foreign visitors.
www.ouka.fi/taidemuseo_eng
www.kierikki.fi
OUTLOOK TRAVEL / FINLAND / OULU
SOUVENIRS
Shaman Spirits (Šamaani)
The company sells a new
commercial object ind
industrial or warehouse
uses 16b Acones Street,
Ulbroka, Stopiņu village,
12 km from the Riga city centre,
5 km to the Via Baltic,
paved driveways).
Total area of commercial land
- 9070 square m. The area is
fenced, paved and there is
possibility for perspective
building. Production-warehouse
building area - 1440m2
(size 24x60x11), the
Administrative building area 120m2. Administration building
full decoration, manufacturingwarehouse building is
equipped with two 5 ton lifting
equipment. All communications.
Price - EUR 1.5 million.
Tel. (+ 371) 2555-8076 (English)
Tel. (+371) 2923-6361,
(+371) 2929-9574 (Latvian, Russian)
e-mail: info@fenikss.lv
Shaman Spirits produces genuinely local
alcoholic drinks. The name refers to shamans
from Lapland and other places where this form
of religious activity is practiced. Shaman Spirits
claims to be the northernmost spirit distillery in
the world, obtaining its alcohol by refining locally
grown potatoes and adding flavours from forest
berries that grow in the vicinity (cloudberries,
lingonberries, cranberries and blueberries). It is
one of Finland’s two distilleries and its exports
reach various other countries. For example, its
potato-based gin is sold as far south as Spain.
The distillery’s products can be tasted during the
factory tour (groups are welcome to contact
the company through its website), as well as in
restaurants and bought at Alko stores all over
Finland. Those who feel especially brave can try
a rare specialty – Shaman Spirits’s black-coloured
pine extract liqueur.
www.shamanspirits.com
LOVI
Lovi is an Oulu-born brand that fits well
into the concept of Finnish design – clear
lines, simple and smart, as close to nature
as possible. Lovi offers smart-looking
decoration pieces and three-dimensional
objects from Finnish birch plywood that
you assemble yourself (no extra tools
needed), giving you the joy of feeling as
if you have created the article yourself.
The smallest items are envelope-sized and
easy to send. Lovi products are available
in various stores in the city, as well as the
Oulu airport shop.
www.lovi.fi
Leipäjuusto Translated into English, leipäjuusto means “bread
cheese.” Other nations might recognize it under
the name of Lapland cheese or Finnish “squeaky”
cheese (after the sound that it makes when
eaten). Leipäjuusto has a universal character.
Finns prefer to eat it as a dessert, either by
crumbling it into coffee or by heating it up
in the oven and serving it with cream, vanilla
and cinnamon. The cheese can be bought in
Oulu grocery shops and kauppahalli (indoor
market place), as well as at dairies outside
of the city, including Niemitalon Juustola
(www.niemitalonjuustola.fi) on the way to Syöte
or Vaalan Juustola (www.vaalanjuustola.fi) in the
direction of Rokua.
Special thanks to Airport Hotel Oulu, Maikkulan kartano, Hotel
Iso-Syöte, Rokua Helath & Spa, Rokua Geopark and Sokos Hotel
Arina, as well as the GoArctic adventure team, the representatives
of the city of Oulu and last but not least the managing director of
Travel Marketing Oulu Ltd, Kaisu Laurila-Seluska; for all their kind
assistance and warm hospitality over the three day period.
For further travel information on the Oulu region,
please visit www.ouluon.fi
Fly to Oulu with
Direct flights from Turku and Riga starting
from EUR 39
From more than 70 cities via Riga starting
from EUR 104
Earn 5 BalticMiles Points for each
Euro spent
BalticMiles partners in Oulu: airBaltic,
Avis, Sixt, Radisson Blu, Cumulus,
airBalticTravel, Language Direct
OUTLOOK / PROMO
Publicity photo
A traffic- and stress- free
trip to the airport
Moscow is known, among other things, for its legendary traffic jams.
However, since Aeroexpress began running an electric train shuttle
service between the Russian capital and its three largest airports in
2008, passengers no longer have to spend anxiety-filled moments
stuck in traffic.
Aeroexpress is the fastest, safest and most convenient
way to travel both to and from Moscow’s airports –
without any stops, transfers or traffic jams on the
way. The trip from central Moscow to Vnukovo and
Sheremetyevo airports takes only 35 minutes, while
the ride to Domodedovo lasts 45 minutes. Aeroexpress’
services are also available to airBaltic passengers,
as the airline offers two daily flights from Riga to
Sheremetyevo Airport and three flights a week from
Riga to Domodedovo.
Aeroexpress offers two levels of service – Standard and
Business Class. Business Class passengers receive such
added perks as the option to reserve individual seats in
advance. They can read free copies of leading business
newspapers and magazines. Furthermore, the Business
Class train cars are furnished with upgraded interiors
and additional space between seat rows. Starting from
late June or early July, all Aeroexpress passengers will
have WiFi wireless internet access during their train
ride. Aeroexpress train terminals are strategically located
close to the Kiyevskaya, Belorusskaya and Paveletskaya
metro stations, which is very convenient for the 30 000
passengers who use the Aeroexpress train every day.
The company is also expanding its range of ticket
sales services. Clients can already purchase their train
tickets in advance through Aeroexpress’ website at
www.aeroexpress.ru. This year, an additional mobile
ticket service system is planned. BO
For further information about Aeroexpress train schedules
and ticket prices, please consult the company’s website at
www.aeroexpress.ru
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 49
OUTLOOK / PROMO
Welcome to
the Northern Finland!
Sokos Hotel Levi
The northernmost hotel of the Sokos Hotels chain is located in the
very heart of Levi, the highly popular destination set amid the wild
and unspoiled fjells of Lapland. The hotel offers a chance to sample
the exotic flavors of the region, whether traveling for leisure or
business. The distance to the nearest bus stop is 300 m, the airport
15 km and the railway station 80 km.
The 202 rooms (including 20 superior rooms and 9 suites) of the
hotel are individually furnished to reflect the variety of the seasons
in Lapland. The hotel features indoor and outdoor jacuzzi, ski
storage and a 170–car heated indoor car park. Coffee House & Bar
(www.coffeehouse.fi) on the first floor offers a wide selection of
foods from early morning coffee to leisurely lunch and is also a
convivial place for an evening of relaxation.
Two meeting rooms at the hotel adapt to a wide range of needs and
events for 10–60 participants. A private sauna can also be booked
in conjunction with meetings. The hotel’s airy Restaurant Kiisa offers
further banquet facilities for 140 people and can also be used for
private parties of all kinds. Ask for details! 50 / AIRBALTIC.COM
OUTLOOK / PROMO
Sokos Hotel Arina in Oulu
Famous for its merchant and handicraft traditions, Oulu is a major
know–how centre of advanced technology and the business centre
of northern Finland. Sokos Hotel Arina is a classy and comfortable
hotel right in the centre of Oulu, on the pedestrian street Rotuaari.
The dignified facades of the time–honored merchant’s block
conceal a top modern hotel and restaurant complex. The ground
floor is one of Oulu’s hotspots, as it hosts a café Coffee House and
four restaurants. Fransmanni offers Rustic French cuisine, renowned
for its use of simple, fresh ingredients. Amarillo is a stylish bar and
restaurant serving delicious Mexican–style food and is known
as one of the top party venues in the city. Rosso’s uncomplicated
Italian style menu is perfect for the entire family, baby and granny
included. However, the open kitchen of Torero offers tasty Spanish
tapas and juicy steaks from the lava grill open kitchen.
Arina is well suited for the needs of both business and leisure
travelers. The hotel capacity exceeds 500 guests at a time. Out of
the 260 rooms, 17 are superior rooms and 6 are suites. There are
three public saunas available as well as rooms and suites with
private en–suite saunas.
Being based in the very center of the Arctic business hub, the
hotel offers thorough conference services. 15 conference rooms
are suitable for various–sized business meetings for a total
of 350 people. You can also arrange a meeting with a follow–
up sauna.
Sokos Hotel Vaakuna Rovaniemi
Rovaniemi is the modern capital of Finnish Lapland, located on
the Northern Arctic Circle, a place where reality and fairytales
meet on the border of the Arctic. Every season in Rovaniemi is
an unforgettable experience: the never–ending summertime
sunshine, the twilight period leading up to Christmas, and the
springtime snowscapes glistering like fields of diamonds.
Located in the heart of Rovaniemi and close to nature, Sokos
Hotel Vaakuna’s 157 rooms and two suites offer a relaxing
and homely atmosphere. Close by, you’ll find a wide range
of opportunities to go shopping, a variety of sports and
culture services and local sights – the Arktikum, Arctic Circle,
Santa Claus, Rovaniemi Theatre, Rovaniemi Art Museum and
Santasport Spa. The pleasant Tokka meeting facilities in the
hotel can hold up to 60 people, and we can also arrange
meetings in the hotel’s other facilities.
The hotel features two restaurants that serve rustic French
cuisine seasoned with garlic and herbs and Wild West Tex
Mex. Round off your evening in the newly refurbished Doris
Night Club, the party–goers’ paradise, without even having to
step outside. The two hotel restaurants and the bar combined
provide space for as many as 700 people, depending on table
formation.
More information on facilities and services: www.sokoshotels.fi
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 51
OUTLOOK / PROMO
TAV Airports
TAV Airports, which had
signed a Memorandum
of Understanding with
airBaltic in relation to
the construction and
operation of a possible
new terminal building in
Riga, started operating
the Duty-Free, Food
& Beverage and other
commercial areas within
the existing terminal on
January 1st, 2011.
Launched Operations at Riga Airport
TAV Airports started operating the Duty-Free, Food &
Beverage and other commercial areas within the existing
terminal on January 1st, 2011. The operation at the Riga
Airport will eventually cover sections spread over a
4650-square-metre area, such as Duty-Free, Food & Beverage
Points, foreign exchange offices, car rental offices, banks,
pharmacies and CIP Lounges during an operation period
of 10 years, in accordance with the tender specifications
arranged by SJSC Riga International Airport Management.
Considering Latvia as a noteworthy market and centring
it in its expansion strategies regarding Northern Europe,
TAV Airports has already been providing ground handling
services through North Hub Services, of which its subsidiary
Havas is a 50% shareholder, in Latvia and Finland.
TAV Airports Holding President and CEO Dr. M. Sani Sener
said: “The Riga International Airport has experienced 31%
annual growth in terms of passenger numbers for the
last seven years. TAV Airports will be a key player in this
process, with its excellent service mentality and superior
operational performance. We will not be a stranger in Riga,
where we are already present with North Hub Services,
our ground handling company, of which our subsidiary
Havas is a shareholder. We intend to start working with
airBaltic in the construction and operation of a possible
new terminal at the Riga International Airport. This project
is the acknowledgement of TAV’s commercial-wise success
on the international level, together with TAV’s wholly
integrated airport operation projects.”
Through its subsidiary ATU, TAV Airports has been in
a partnership with Gebr. Heinemann, a German retail
company known worldwide, since the launch of duty
free operations at the Istanbul Atatürk Airport, and
52 / AIRBALTIC.COM
delivered high quality service to passengers along with
Heinemann’s experience of operations at 48 international
airports in 19 countries. As of now, TAV is transferring
its global know-how in management and operations of
F&B and commercial areas to Riga. Closely following the
developments in the Riga Airport during the last four
years, TAV Airports is planning to become an important
player in the launch of the new terminal.
TAV Airports is the leading airport operator in Turkey and
is among the major players in the worldwide airport
business. TAV Airports operates Istanbul Atatürk Airport
(one of the busiest airports in Europe), Ankara Esenboga
Airport, Izmir Adnan Menderes Airport and Antalya
Gazipasa Airport in Turkey, the Tbilisi and Batumi Airports
in Georgia, Monastir and Enfidha Airports in Tunisia, as
well as the Skopje and the Ohrid Airports in Macedonia.
TAV Airports also has diversified businesses in other
branches of airport operations, such as duty-free sales,
food and beverage services, ground handling services,
information technologies, security and other commercial
area operations. TAV Airports serves 410 000 flights for
approximately 300 airline companies and 48 million
passengers on average per year.
TAV Airports provides an unparalleled passenger
experience through its subsidiaries, which strive to
meet every need that can be expected from an airport.
There is no room for error, confusion or indecision in
airport operations, where the pace is frantic 24 hours a
day. Armed with this awareness, TAV Airports serves its
customers with experienced and cheerful staff at every
point; from the parking lot to security control, from checkin to cafés, from duty-free shops to the boarding gates.BO
OUTLOOK / TRAVEL / COPENHAGEN
Text by Simon
Cooper |
Publicity
photos and
coRBIS and
emilysalomon.dk
A Love Story
If Paris is Europe’s
heartland of romanticism,
then Copenhagen is its
adventure playground.
From the people to the
buildings and mood of the
cityscape, love really is all
around – and it’s imbued
with the customary
Danish qualities.
You can hardly imagine the tourist board
of any European capital failing to include
the adjective ‘romantic’ in its literature. From
London to Madrid – and, of course, Paris – each
can stake their just claim as being romantic
cities, offering pockets of intimate charm and
waterside strolls, where aphrodisiacal air whisks
loving couples away to a place light years away
from the brick and mortar cityscape.
Few cities, though, can actually be heralded
as purveyors of true romance. Copenhagen
is fortunate to have a romantic feel of its
own right, offering much more than a
mere Danish interpretation of l’amour à la
Parisienne. Even on a busy shopping street
or in a City Hall Square crowd, any place can
feel privately veiled, like a protected personal
space for love-struck couples.
Limitations do not count for much
in Denmark’s capital city. Single-sex
relationships and marriages are aplenty,
whilst the light-hearted term ‘love refugee’
refers to those foreign nationals who have
been enraptured by a Dane travelling abroad
and now go about their lives here.
There is no envy in watching chic, handsome
couples stroll past. Instead, you get the feeling
that if you aren’t already head-over-heals in
love, then you soon will be. Whether it is the
costume drama quaintness of Frederiksberg
Park and labyrinth, or the canals and autumnalshaded houses of Christianhavn, there are
numerous backdrops to whatever romantic
play you chose. Modernized scenarios inspired
by Hans Christian Andersen, if you will.
The same author of children’s stories, inspired
by a love for Swedish opera singer Jenny
Lind, wrote his tale the Nightingale in Tivoli,
a park surely designed with more than a
simple nod to the infatuated escapist. Like
OUTLOOK / TRAVEL / COPENHAGEN
throwing open the cupboard doors to
Narnia, an oasis of plants, lights and colour
greets you, a landscape fit for stolen looks
or secluded shows of embrace.
Naturally, for one of the most open-minded
cities on Earth, public displays of affection
are common and passionate, but not
extravagant. There are even ‘designated’
places for you to canoodle with your lover.
Falkoner Biografen and Empire cinemas
have back-row ‘love seats’ wide enough
for couples to get comfy with each other,
minus the inconvenience of an armrest.
Romantic atmosphere
Taking the concept further last April,
the bus company Arriva ran a two-week
‘kissing seats’ scheme on 100 city buses to
induce an even more romantic atmosphere
on board. The seats were matted in a
passionate shade of red.
Kissing can also be practiced outdoors, au
plein air. Outside the Planetarium, at the
foot of the lakes, is a serene ‘kissing spot’
that overlooks the water and hovers under
the night sky. Do so in a small square and
you may even be played to by a band.
Copenhagen has a laissez-faire attitude to
love and sex. As genuine amorous feeling
goes, walking down Istedgade – the
famous sex industry hub – is hardly what
you want. It is, however, a platform for the
sort of open sentiment radiating through
the streets and hanging in the air behind
each pretty cyclist who breezes past.
Close to Istedgade is Vesterbro – a former
workers’ district. Now chic and full of life, a
huddle of bars and clubs sees young people.
Copenhagen Opera House (Operaen):
Located on the small island of Dokløen opposite the Amalienborg castle and designed by architect
Henning Larsen, the Opera House is accessible by waterbus from the Royal Theatre. The waterbus is a
spectacular way to tour the city, regardless of whether you plan on going to the opera or not.
Restaurant Alsace
Ny Østergade 9
In the very centre of Copenhagen, a few metres
off Strøget, lies a reclusive courtyard that hoses
a liquorice criss-cross of Alsatian buildings and
crystal conservatory. The latter has now been
annexed to a family-run restaurant that serves
authentic food in an otherworldly setting.
Værnedamsvej
Quite simply the most romantic street in the
city. Known as Copenhagen’s Little Paris,
its sides are lined with cafés, shops and
delicatessens. The Granola coffee and ice
cream bar is a must.
Relaxing SPA procedures,
Turkish steam bath
hammam and sauna on
the 5th floor with a view
of the church steeples
of Old Riga!
Dome SPA
4 Miesnieku street, Riga
www.domespa.lv
Gammel Holtegaard
Attemosevej 170, Holte
In the suburb of Holte lies an awe-inspiring
art gallery and Baroque park. A perfect and
uplifting way to spend a Sunday morning with
your loved one.
Assistens Cemetery
Falkonner Biografen
Sylows Allé 15, Frederiksberg
The resting place of Danish authors Hans
Christian Andersen and Søren Kirkergaard,
Assistens is to cemeteries what Tivoli is to theme
parks. Stroll at your leisure in this tranquil spot,
which acquires a different feel with the changing
of the seasons. Couples even picnic here during
the summer.
This cinema’s halls are decorated with
red seats, with orange armchairs and old
movie photos from films such as Breakfast
at Tiffany’s. It has a modern feel, although
certain older parts of the building have been
preserved. Take the stairs to the leisurely
latte lounge and then watch a film from the
comfort of a ‘kissing seat’.
During the day, take a carefree walk and see
the well-kept splendour of Østerport. Continue
from Kongens Nytorv to Nyhavn and up the
water’s edge past the Royal Danish Playhouse,
Little Mermaid and boat tour station. You will
end up at Churchill Park, where the notion
of Copenhagen as an endless, flat plain is
dispelled with small hills, twisting trees and a
wooden windmill built in 1847.
Opposite is the old fortification of Kastellet
with a surrounding park – elevated, starshaped and picturesque in the extreme.
Back down on Øster Voldgade, you can
duck into the Botanical Gardens – another
fairy-tale spread of plants, steeped rock
mounds and ponds.
Running from Kongens Nytorv to Kastallet
is Bredgade – a large yet tranquil street
housing various embassy buildings, as well as
the Amalienborg castle and gardens, not to
mention the stunning Marmorkirken church
with its basilica-like dome. The street has a
wide selection of intimate cafés and bars to
choose from, and one of the restaurants, Von
Plessen is ideal for a candlelit meal.
As Danish philosopher Søren Kierkegaard
once said, ‘Love is all, it gives all, and it
takes all.’ A mere weekend in Copenhagen
will prove this. There is nothing tokenistic
or commercial (Valentines’ Day isn’t
really emphasized here) in Copenhagen’s
romance, which is vibrant and exhilarating,
as much a part of the city as the very
ground on which it was built. BO
Nørrebrogade, Nørrebro
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OUTLOOK / PROMO
Latvian singer LINDA LEEN
The timeless
Beauty of fur
MELE, “Basteja Pasāža”
Zigfrīda Annas Meierovica
bulvāris 16, Rīga, Latvija
Phone: +371 26645451;
+371 26476633
www.mele1880.lv
58 / AIRBALTIC.COM
Fur is one of the softest, warmest, and most luxurious materials
known to man. As you run your fingers through the silky hairs of
a mink stole, you immediately want to brush your cheeks against
the soft material and bask in its lavish, natural magnificence.
OUTLOOK / PROMO
A fur coat is the ultimate fulfilment of this natural desire.
Human beings have been wearing the pelts of animals
for thousands of years, but coats made from the highest
quality furs – mink, chinchilla, and sable – have become
exclusive garments only in recent centuries. It is easy
to see why, as the preparation of a well-made fur coat
demands the highest quality materials, precise stitching
and expert tailoring.
Mastering the art of fur-making requires time and
dedication. One of the world’s oldest furriers is MELE,
founded in Italy in 1880 by a leather entrepreneur
named Enrico Mele. By the early 20th century, the
Naples-based company was one of the most respected
furriers in Europe. In 1907, MELE won a gold medal at the
Exposition Universelle in Paris, and in 1917, Enrico Mele
himself was crowned a Knight of the Crown of Italy
by King Victor Emmanuel III.
Over the last 130 years, the traditions, secrets and
techniques of the MELE fur company have been passed
down through five generations of the Mele family.
Today, the business is run by three brothers – Enrico,
colours vary widely, from classic browns and blacks to
creamy whites and subtly dyed blues.
Sensuous softness
Of course, the main element in any fur garment is the material
itself. For 130 years, MELE has prided itself in the highest quality
furs, which it acquires from high-end purveyors throughout
the world. MELE purchases all of its furs at exclusive auctions
in various cities worldwide, where international furriers
gather to assess, select, and buy their materials. The company
prefers the sensuous softness of blackglama and saga mink,
chinchilla, and the most coveted and exclusive fur available
today—sable fur from Russia. Each of the materials is carefully
treated, processed and stitched into completed garments at
the MELE factory in Naples.
Along with a local partner, the Mele brothers have
recently opened their first boutique shop in the Baltic
countries, in the fashionable Basteja Pasāža shopping
complex, directly across from Bastejkalns Hill in
Riga’s Old Town. The boutique is the only store in the
Baltics to exclusively sell MELE furs, and the first MELE
Davide, and Diego – who continue the
traditions, monobrand boutique in the world after the
reputation of excellence associated with the
secrets and Naples showroom.
MELE name since the late 1800s.
techniques Customers can browse the racks of garments
in an atmosphere of hushed elegance that
Although the company’s fur coats are
of the MELE befits the grandeur of fur. They can also order
particularly popular in Italy, MELE is known
fur company made-to-measure garments directly from the
throughout the world for its luxurious and
have been
Naples factory – just like the leading Italian
reasonably priced garments. Legendary
actresses such as Monica Bellucci and Sofia
passed down actresses and fashion models – with individual
Loren, as well as high-ranking politicians, have through FIVE measurements and sizing made right there at
been known to order custom-made garments
generations the shop in Riga.
A high quality fur coat is much more than
from the MELE showroom in Naples.
of the Mele a purchase; it is an investment in the future.
The fact that MELE has been making fur
family
If properly cared for, a fur coat can last
garments since 1880 doesn’t mean that the
practically forever, passed down from generation to
furrier hasn’t kept up with the latest styles in fur design.
Every year, the furrier releases a new line of clothing that generation, just like the MELE name itself. Fur is such a
showcases the latest fashion trends. These include classic luxurious material, that a fur garment will never go out of
style. It will be inherited by future generations and worn
knee-length coats for colder weather; shorter coats for
the spring and autumn; as well as variety of other stylish as a testament to our enduring desire for natural warmth,
garments, including vests, wraps, mantles and stoles. The classic luxury and timeless beauty. BO
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 59
Fly to Baku with
airBaltic starting
from April 17 from
€59
One cannot serve
Text by Elvita Ruka | Photos by Aija Bley
two masters
“Look, over there! Owls! Flying about by the cross of the church. They
usually appear at about midnight, make a couple of loops around the
building and settle down to perch upon its dome. Let’s be still for a
minute. You can hear their wings flapping. I do not know why so many
of them gather here. I suppose that they sense the sanctity of this holy
place. And they are fond of me, too!”
Even as he speaks, Father Gregor seems to be making
music. Twenty years ago, he was a carefree musician
named Armen, savouring the pleasures of life. He
wanted to flee the Soviet Union and settle down in
America with his wife and prized violin. His jazz band
was scheduled to tour the United States, and he had
already planned his family’s escape. His friends had even
60 / AIRBALTIC.COM
found a restaurant in America where he could perform
and make his living, and an invitation had been written
up for his daughter to visit the USA. Shortly before his
scheduled departure, however, Armen was asked to
replace the Gandzasar church deacon in Karabakh for
two short weeks. Two decades later, he is still there, with
a new name – Father Gregor.
OUTLOOK / SPECIAL
“No, I do not play the violin any more. One cannot
serve two masters. However, my wife is still an opera
singer. She’s the one who does the singing and
travelling. ‘Gregor, I am in Paris now. Gregor, I am in
Venice. Gregor, I am roaming the streets of Athens.’ My
duty is to ‘tune up’ human souls here in Karabakh. I
was dragged into the war with Azerbaijan and can no
longer leave. My wife signed a paper consenting to
“I was ordained as a priest in Karabakh. The war broke
out in 1988 and someone had to baptize the lads,
listen to their confessions and provide them with
support. I was a chaplain during the war. I had a cross in
one hand and a rifle in the other. Do you know what the
Karabakh Syndrome is? Those who have actually fought
in the conflict never speak about its tragic side, only
about its comic aspects. There are still things that you
can laugh about during wartime. Eventually, you get
used to all kinds of situations. Death may be all around
you, but you try to see the funny side of it. What kind of
person are you if you have no sense of humour?”
Baptism before battle
my service to the Church.”
Gandzasar was built on the place where pilgrims
supposedly brought the severed skull of St. John
the Baptist – a sacred relic. That was back in the 13th
century. The monastery rises on a hilltop, mysterious
and imposing. Now it has been restored, thanks to the
funding of an Armenian millionaire who fanatically
supports the revival of Nagorno-Karabakh. The
philanthropist builds, invests, maintains, cares for and
educates. First, he restored the monastery. The electric
bill alone reaches 1500 USD per month, which he
dutifully pays.
“Once, we had to go into battle, but I had to bless the
soldiers for victory first. Suddenly, a forceful lady turned
up and asked me to baptize her right there on the spot.
Her husband had been killed, she had nothing to lose
and wanted to fight to the end. I told her: ‘Let’s do it later.
Wait until after the battle.’ But she went on the offensive
and started shouting at me: ‘Who will baptise me if you
get killed?’ Yes, I hadn’t thought about that. I asked the
soldiers to wait and told her to kneel down. She already
had a cross around her neck. I asked her to unbutton her
blouse. She yanked it open. The buttons flew off and her
breasts popped out right in front of the whole platoon.
So I baptized this half-naked woman just before the
battle. So many guys were killed at that time, too many.”
We are sitting in the ancient vaults of the monastery
and enjoying an evening trapeza.* From time to time,
a little beady-eyed mouse runs up to the table. She
is not afraid of people, only of owls, so she is looking
for security in a most insecure place – the company
of humans. This time, the humans turn out to be
benevolent, and the mouse is saved.
Father Gregor has not yet killed the violinist named
Armen inside himself. Both sides of his personality still
love music. A captivating and wistful concert rings out
in the building. It is his mobile phone, ringing during
a dinner of lavash bread, chicken and tomatoes. The
phone has all kinds of melodies: classical music and
jazz, new Armenian pop songs and old hits. The phone’s
reflection can be seen against the bottle of wine and
Father Gregor’s eyes are sparkling. Meanwhile, Armen’s
fingers play a non-existent violin.
“Listen to this song, and this one! And now, my favourite
tune!”
The morning prayer at the Gandzasar Monastery is sung
by only two souls – Father Gregor and his assistant. The
lonesome chant echoes beautifully through the vaults
of the church. Strangely, the prayers seem to be
accompanied by the sound of a violin. BO
* Trapeza – a common meal after a prayer.
CARS
In association with Whatcar.LV
The Bentley Continental GT:
an all-new version of Bentley’s super-coupé
says...
One of the finest
coupés that
money can buy
Just like HP Sauce and
fish and chips, things
don’t come much more
British than a Bentley,
even if the latest
Continental GT is built
almost entirely from
Volkswagen Group parts.
62 / AIRBALTIC.COM
CARS
Well, dry your eyes Anglophiles, because
the Continental GT happens to be one of
the finest coupés that money can buy.
A 575-horsepower, 6.0-litre twin-turbo
W12 engine provides the driving force.
All of that power is pumped through a
six-speed automatic gearbox and down
to the road via four-wheel drive and wide
tyres on 20-inch alloy wheels.
Hardly surprising then, that despite
its prodigious 2.3-tonne weight, the
Continental is one seriously quick car. Sink
the huge accelerator pedal into the thick
pile carpet and that famous grille rises in
unison with the smooth, instantaneous
and vast force that you’ve just unleashed.
The Continental GT takes just 4.8 seconds
to go from rest to 100 km/h and carries on
to a top speed just shy of 320 km/h.
It’s just as well that the active suspension
and wide axles ensure unwavering
straight-line stability.
Engine
6-litre twin-turbocharged W12
Power
575 Hp
0-100 km/h
4,6 sec
Top speed
318 km/h
Economy
16,5 l/100km
CO g/km
384
Price from(without VAT)
160 000 €
2
So, what’s it like to drive?
Don’t go thinking that the Continental
was conceived just to devour motorway
miles. Quite the reverse. Show it a series
of bends and the combination of grip,
sweetly weighted steering and minimal
body roll enable the GT to change
direction smoothly and accurately.
Given that it’s a Bentley, you’d be appalled
if it wasn’t library quiet: you won’t be
disappointed. The new car is 16% quieter
than the model that it replaces. Inevitably,
those big tyres do generate some road
noise over grainier surfaces, but that’s the
only small fly in the ointment.
The engine is running at just above
tickover at motorway speeds, so there’s
almost no mechanical row from under
the bonnet, while the triple laminated
acoustic glass blots out wind noise
effectively. Your passengers will have
no problem catching forty winks as you
enjoy the vast reserves of performance.
What’s it like inside?
The interior of the Continental GT is
much more up-to-date than that of its
predecessor, having a more bespoke look
and feel. BO
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 63
CARS
A small dose of
optimism
from Detroit
Our experts from the car
buyers’ guide whatcar.lv
share the latest news from
the North American
International Auto Show
(NAIAS) in Detroit
64 / AIRBALTIC.COM
Audi A6
The unveiling of
the new A6 in
Detroit was its first
public showing,
and there’s already
a sense of eager
anticipation that
this Audi model
may once again hit
the mark.
The start of the year was cold and wintry in the Motor City, but this time the air was tinged
with an optimism that had not been felt about the car industry – especially the American
car industry – for some years.
This year’s NAIAS motor show kicked off in the wake of recently released US car sales figures
for the year 2010, which make for great reading. The number of sold cars had risen by
11% compared to the previous year, halting a four-year run of declining sales. Predictions
for the year ahead are cautious but positive, with more growth expected.
Leading that growth will be a variety of car launches, ranging from the all-new Audi A6
and face-lifted Mercedes C-Class through to near-production-ready concepts such as the
Mini Paceman and cutting-edge vehicles such as the electric Ford Focus.
Here are some of the cars that got us excited.
CARS
BMW
The BMW 1 Series M Coupé isn’t a fast-sounding car name, but don’t let
that fool you. This is the fastest and most extreme production 1 Series yet,
the “baby M3,” as some may call it.
Hyundai
Hyundai will re-enter the affordable coupé market with the Veloster, which
is especially notable for the unusual layout of a single door on the driver’s
side and two conventional doors on the passenger side.
Mercedes-Benz
Ford
Mercedes’ all-electric supercar, the SLS AMG E-cell, made its first
appearance at a motor show in Detroit with the claim by CEO Dieter
Zetsche that it will satisfy the two most popular New Year’s resolutions: “quit
smoking and lose weight.”
Ford revealed a design concept for a global compact crossover. Named
Vertrek, it could replace the Kuga in Europe and the Escape in North
America by combining the best elements of both.
Mini
Honda
A new Honda Civic will be launched later this year, and this concept car
gives the first clue as to how the vehicle will look.
A lot of Mini fans will take a look at this striking Paceman concept car and
think: ‘Wow’! Many others might look at the three-door coupé version of
the Countryman and think: ‘Why?’ If positive reviews prevail, then you can
expect to see it in showrooms – minus the concept car eccentricities –
midway through 2012.
GADGETS
Text by Girts Rozners | Publicity photos
JUST 5 Spacephone
I just want to call!
The Latvian-based company Just5 caters
to those who require nothing more in their
cellular phones than the capacity to make
telephone calls and send sms text messages.
Its latest model is the limited edition cellular
Spacephone, which features these two basic
functions and which is available in five incredibly
bright colours. The phone has a very large
keypad and is very easy to use, as well as an
SOS button and built-in LED diode flashlight.
Just5’s previous models can be bought through
Amazon and eBay for an average of 80 USD.
The limited edition Spacephone is currently
available for a list price of about 100 USD.
New toys
www.just5.lv
for
the New Year
Acer Aspire One
AO522
Stylish netbook
The first thing that one
notices about this new
netbook is its design. The
body of the AO522 has been
released with new lines,
and its two-tone colour
scheme immediately attracts
attention. In the future, it
may also be available in
other colours besides black
and green. The Acer Aspire 10-inch netbook (1280 x 720 pixels) is run by
the latest generation of AMD Fusion processors, making it faster and more
powerful than ever before. Along with the standard wired and wireless
features of current-day netbooks, the AO522 can also be connected to your
home’s widescreen television with an HDMI cable.
LG E-90
Super thin monitor
The E-90 is currently the
slimmest monitor on offer
by LG, with a thickness of
only 7.2 mm. The image
reaction time does not
surpass 2 ms and the
model’s sufficiently large
21-inch screen permits
it to be used not only
for work purposes with
your computer, but also
for viewing films and sportscasts. In addition, the screen’s 1920 x 1080
resolution can accommodate Blu-ray-quality content. However, the main
feature of this monitor is its unusual appearance: the E-90’s thin screen and
silvery support base give it an added element of style that will suit practically
any office or home interior.
Creative Zen Touch 2
An extremely intelligent PMP
The newest generation of Zen multimedia portable media players (PMP) is
the first to incorporate the Android 2.1 operating system. As a result, you
can now download a wide range of apps, films, music and games from the
internet; stream music wirelessly to compatible Bluetooth® headphones
or speakers; use the Touch 2’s Wi-Fi function to surf the web and check
your e-mail; and take photographs with its 2-megapixel built-in camera. All
that’s missing in this device is a cellular phone. The Creative Zen Touch 2 is
available in a choice of either 8GB or 16GB storage capacities, which sell for
279 USD and 319 USD, respectively.
OUTLOOK / PROMO
Feeding emotions at Kaļķu Vārti
Kaļķu 11a, Rīga, Latvia
Phone 67 224 576
www.kalkuvarti.lv
68 / AIRBALTIC.COM
“Emotions” is a word that you will hear a lot when
speaking with the new executive chef at Riga’s
Kaļķu Vārti restaurant, Raimonds Zommers. “I want to
conjure up positive emotions in our customers and
give them a rush of positive energy,” he’ll say when
describing a new dish. It’s almost as if the emotions,
not hungry bellies, are what this chef is out to feed.
And as it turns out, that isn’t far from the truth.
OUTLOOK / PROMO
Kaļķu Vārti is among the elder statesmen of the Latvian
gourmet dining scene. The restaurant has been around
since 2002 and spent many years under the direction
of Ēriks Dreibants, one of the country’s most wellknown chefs. However, Dreibants recently decamped
to the Latvian countryside with his family, leaving the
stewardship of the place that he helped to create to his
long-time assistant, chef Raimonds Zommers.
Zommers, who was raised on an organic dairy farm in
Latvia’s western region of Kurzeme, has worked as a cook
at Kaļķu Vārti for ten years, so he knows his way around
a kitchen as well as a local farm – the source of all of
the restaurant’s fresh ingredients. Now he is faced with
the daunting task of maintaining the restaurant’s high
standards and satisfying the customers who have been
coming here for almost a decade. Yet he doesn’t seem too
fazed by the prospects. In fact, he welcomes the challenge,
as it gives him a chance to explore the culinary universe.
“What attracts me about working as an executive chef
is the freedom of exploration,” Zommers explains. “I
can explore not only new ways of preparation and new
technologies, but also new products and ingredients.”
One of the cornerstones of his new menu is Jerusalem
artichoke soup, which has fast become a favourite dish
at Kaļķu Vārti. Zommers has long been attracted by this
curious root vegetable, which he claims tastes like hazel
nuts, but only recently had the chance to discover its
distinctive flavour and employ it in a dish.
prepares the pork using the sous-vide method, preserving
the meat’s juices, and then shreds the chops into pieces,
unleashing their flavour on the taste buds of diners.
Exuberance and vitality
In order to assist its patrons in this process of discovery,
Kaļķu Vārti employs some of the best waiters and
waitresses in the city, who gladly interpret the chef’s
explorations for diners who might not be versed in
the intricacies of the culinary arts. The waitstaff is also
prepared to offer its recommendations for dishes and
wine pairings, and is always glad to call out the chef to
present his masterpieces in person.
This February, diners have a few particular masterworks
to look forward to. Chef Zommers has designed a special
Valentine’s Day tasting menu, available after the 14th.
As for the future, Zommers has a few ideas up his
sleeve. He currently has his eye on snails from his native
New insights
Zommers is also excited by the possibility of using
the cutting-edge cooking technologies available in
the Kaļķu Vārti kitchen. One is the sous-vide method
of cooking, where products like meat are sealed in an
airtight plastic bag and placed for several hours in a
bath of warm water, which is maintained at a constant,
low temperature. After being prepared under the
sous-vide method, food is intensely flavourful, as it has
retained its juices and cooked in its own sauces.
At Kaļķu Vārti, Zommers has divided his menu into
two parts: classic gourmet cuisine, and modern
interpretations of traditional Latvian products and
recipes. For his gourmet cuisine, he elegantly prepares
classic dishes, such as soufflés and carpaccios, using
some of his favourite ingredients, like rosemary,
coriander, cumin, Brussels sprouts, steamed vegetables
and pan-fried fish. Zommers perfects his understanding
of these classic dishes by regularly visiting Michelinstarred restaurants throughout Europe, many of which
are staffed by old friends from Latvia.
However, the second part of the menu is where Zommers
has a chance to really get down to the business of
exploration. Zommers has taken traditional Latvian
products, such as cabbage, pork, peas and beets, and
given them a new spin. He aims to surprise his customers
with variants of their ancestors’ dishes, and to give them
new insight into the deep flavours of the region. For
example, for his version of Latvian pork chops, Zommers
Kurzeme, which are raised at special farms and fed a
diet of mashed cabbage and carrots. Although many
diners may be adverse to eating these strange-looking
creatures, Zommers say that when the snails are fried
in farm-fresh butter and sprinkled with fresh herbs and
spices, they taste simply divine.
Zommers is also excited about the upcoming spring, when
some of his favourite garden herbs – like chives, radishes,
beets, and sorrel – will gradually become available for
use in his classic dishes and new inventions. The farm
where Zommers was raised also had a large garden, so
he certainly knows how to handle fresh vegetables. Now,
as the new executive chef at Kaļķu Vārti, he finally has a
chance to put his great wealth of experience to work by
freely experimenting with everything that he fancies. He
keeps on inventing new dishes and perfecting classic
favourites in order to continue surprising his diners and
take them along on his ongoing journey of discovery. BO
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 69
OUTLOOK / PROMO
Land of
Meistaru 21,
Līvu laukums, Riga
Phone: +371 67223307
www.zila-govs.lv
70 / AIRBALTIC.COM
the Blue Cow
The Blue Cow is housed on Meistaru iela 21, in an
Although steak is the focal point of the menu, it
architectural landmark that was completed in 1823.
certainly isn’t the only dish. As the sign above the
Some of the building’s original structural elements
door announces, the restaurant also specializes in fish.
have been preserved, including its wooden ceilings and
Therefore, the menu offers such regional delicacies as
stone walls, parts of which date back to the
smoked eel tartar with walnut cream cheese,
13th century. The interior itself was designed
pine nuts and Baltic salmon caviar. An entire
The
by a local artist, who added custom-made
section is devoted exclusively to dishes that
ingredients use locally grown and organic products, such
wooden tables and iron chandeliers to the
interior. The stone walls have been covered
as the slow-cooked veal fillet and rack of
are
with a layer of white plaster and decorated
purchased lamb. The ingredients are purchased directly
with painted designs. These embellishments
from Latvian farmers and producers, including
directly
combine to brighten the space and conjure
from Latvian a family farm in the parish of Aizpute, which is
an aura of old-fashioned charm.
close to the native home of the blue cows on
farmers and the Kurzeme coast.
producers The Blue Cow is also a perfect spot for
Prime steak in all of its glory
However, the main focus at the Blue Cow is
banquets and private parties, as the
on the food, which the chef calls “modern
restaurant can seat up to 80 people in its
interpretations of traditional Latvian cuisine.” Not
large back room, with a view of the castle-like Small
surprisingly for a restaurant with a cow as its mascot,
Guild next door. The front room, for its part, has a
the main dish is steak, consisting of the finest prime
pair of cozy banquettes beside the windows looking
beef that has been dry aged for 25-40 days in the
out onto the bustling Līvu laukums. Sitting up front,
restaurant’s onsite meat locker. Thankfully, the menu
you will be within earshot of the restaurant’s mascot,
keeps the selection process as simple as possible,
who occasionally gives voice to a loud but contented
by presenting each cut of steak with its weight and
moo. After feasting on an array of inventive culinary
thickness alongside the price, as well as a handy ruler
masterworks made with organic local ingredients, you
underneath to give diners a sense of proportion.
will be sure to do the same. BO
FOOD & DRINK
Photos by Janis Salins, f64, and courtesy of Kamadena
Restaurants, bars, cafés
Fly to 6 cities
in Baltic States
with airBaltic from
€20
Kamadena vegetarian restaurant,
Riga
Ottella vinotheque and restaurant, Riga
Ottella is the latest newcomer to Riga’s Embassy Row. Its owners are experienced restaurateurs, who
also own Ottella’s sister establishment one block away, on Pumpura iela – the Rossini restaurant/
pizzeria, where it is hard to get a table without an advance reservation.
The idea to open Ottella came when the owners of Rossini decided that they were ready to expand
their Italian menu and wine list still further. A small vinotheque by the restaurant entrance offers a
variety of Italian wines that have been personally selected by the owners themselves. In fact, they
decided to name their new restaurant after Ottella Lugana, the first wine that they brought back to
Latvia from Italy. Like the other wines on offer, it can be purchased in bottles to bring home after your
meal, or tasted on the spot with the restaurant’s main specialty, a Bistecca Fiorentina T–bone steak,
grilled over an open fire of ash tree wood. Besides its excellent food, Ottella has a tastefully decorated
interior and a very pleasant atmosphere.
J. Alunāna iela 2
Open: daily from 12:00-23:00
www.ottella.lv
Riga had long deserved a distinguished vegetarian
restaurant that is open to both die-hard
vegetarians and those who only occasionally
flirt with the concept. Kamadena, (named after
Kamadhenu, the divine bovine-goddess of
Hindu mythology) is a veritable oasis of peace
and tranquillity, with real, natural flames in the
fireplace, soft lighting, an interior dominated by
wood furnishings and delicious, ayurvedic meals.
Up until now, there hadn’t been too many places
in Riga where one could enjoy an expertly made
masala chai, mango lassi or other Indian dish.
Kamadena is located on Lāčplēša iela between
Brīvības and Baznīcas streets, slightly uptown
from Riga’s traditional tourist hot spots. A variety
of neighbouring restaurants have also opened
their doors on this city block during the past six
months, and Kamadena is the latest addition.
Although the restaurant owners openly propound
a vegetarian lifestyle, as evidenced by various
quotes at the bottom of the menu (including one
by American BMX racer Taj Mihelich: “I don’t think
I’m so important that an animal has to die every
time I get hungry”), this conviction is expressed
sufficiently moderately not to make regular meateaters feel too ill at ease.
The atmosphere is peaceful and the prices for a
dinner meal are reasonable. For lunch, however,
it is advisable to order the daily special, which
should cost no more than about 5-EUR.
Lāčplēša iela 12
Open: Mon.-Sat. 11:00-22:00, closed Sun.
www.kamadena.lv
FOOD & DRINK
airBaltic Hot Spots in Vilnius
Vilnius has a fairly diverse restaurant and bar scene.
From traditional Lithuanian cuisine to Korean kimchi,
Spanish tapas or Belgian mussels, the city offers
pretty much something for everyone. If I were to go
out for a night in the town, then I would probably
choose the following itinerary.
Tadas Vizgirda,
Executive Vice President and
General Manager in Lithuania
Balzac restaurant
Nestled on a side street in the
heart of Vilnius, Balzac makes
you feel as though you were in a
small romantic café somewhere
in the Monmartre district of
Paris. The atmosphere is cosy,
the service is quick and the
French cuisine is truly authentic.
My favourite dishes are the
homemade foie gras, followed
In Vino
After a wonderful culinary
experience at Balzac, there’s
hardly a better place to continue
a romantic evening than at the
Fly to Vilnius
with airBaltic from
€39
by the mouth-watering boeuf
bourguignon. Balzac also has a
great selection of French wines and
was voted the best restaurant in the
Baltic countries by the readers of
the Baltic Times.
Hours: Mon.-Thu. 11.30-23:00,
Fri. 11.30-24:00, Sat. 12:00-24:00,
Sun. 12:00-21:00
Savičiaus g. 7
www.balzac.lt
restaurant/wine bar In Vino. The
place opens in the afternoon and
tends to be somewhat crowded
during weekends, but it’s definitely
worth the visit. The wine selection is
impressive and the finger foods are
delectable. Besides tapas and other
wine companions, In Vino also
offers tasty full-course dinners.
Hours: Sun.-Thu. 16:00-02:00,
Fri.-Sat. 16:00-04:00
Aušros Vartų g. 7
www.invino.lt
Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva, the bar
provides a magnificent, panoramic
view of the Old Town. With over 70
classical cocktails on offer, Skybar is
the perfect location for a night cap,
as you take in the sights from a lofty
vantage point.
Skybar
Skybar is one of the best places
to complete an evening in Vilnius.
Being on the top floor of the
Hours: Sun.-Thu. 17:00-01:00,
Fri.-Sat. 17:00-02:30
22nd floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel
Lietuva, Konstitucijos pr. 20
www.sky-bar.lt
Food blog
A place where August never ends
TEXT By
Sergei Timofeyev
Ulitsa Bolshaya
Dmitrovka 32,
Building No. 4,
Moscow
74 / AIRBALTIC.COM
Some ideas are born spontaneously, and the notion
Alexander Gavrilov happens to be a great home
to found the Avgust (August) café and restaurant in
chef, and has brought many of his favourite home
central Moscow was one of them. Alexander Gavrilov,
recipes to Avgust, as well as the Sestri Grimm (Sisters
a literary critic and restaurateur, was inspired by the
Grimm) restaurant, which he also runs. From time to
greenery of the month of August to set up his latest
time, Gavrilov invites various well-known and highly
eating establishment. Regardless of the season outside,
regarded personalities – including poets, journalists
the interior in Avgust, which occupies two entire floors,
and economists – to share their favourite recipes with
is always a summery green, with every spare metre
Avgust’s clients. The best of these are then placed on the
of space covered in a myriad of live potted
honour role of the restaurant’s already diverse
plants. You will feel as if you are in a verdant
menu.
Everything
garden where the seasons never change.
Among the highlights are turnip salad with
in the
Everything in the menu of the Avgust restaurant
spicy blue cheese sauce, as well as a number
menu of
seems to have a bit of spice in it. For example,
of other common items served in an exotic
the Avgust manner, including special rolls made from
if the aromatic lingonberry tea seems to taste
somewhat exotic, then that is because a small
restaurant thin pumpkin slices, and chicken breasts in
dose of raspberries, ginger, black peppers, cloves
dogwood berry sauce. For dessert, it is worth
seems to
and a few round slices of chilli pepper have
have a bit of trying Avgust’s legendary “tea” ice cream,
been added for good measure. The meat and
which exudes the fragrances of lavender,
spice in it
seafood dishes, for their part, are accompanied
thyme and other aromatic herbs.
by healthy servings of fried spinach.
You will see no Russian works of art on the
“Cut the garlic into thin slices and the red peppers into
walls of Avgust (as in the Art-akademiya restaurant),
rings. Heat up a skillet with a bit of vegetable oil, add
nor are there any live music performances (as in the
the garlic and then the red peppers. Once the garlic
Masterskaya). However, you will feel very much at ease
begins to turn brown, add a pinch of salt and a bunch
amidst Avgust’s easygoing clientele and verdant oasis of
of fresh spinach. Stir immediately for a few minutes and
garden plants. The “summer home” concept (pioneered
allow the spinach to collapse. Serve hot.” While that
by the Apshu club and restaurant) is quite popular in
recipe sounds simple enough, the author of this article
Moscow, and Avgust provides a splendid example of this
was not quite able to replicate it at home.
growing restaurant trend. BO
OUTLOOK / PROMO
Roberts Smilga
At Restaurant 1221,
A long
winter’s night
Restaurant “1221” Open 12.00-23.00
Riga, Jauniela 16
+371 6722 0171
www.1221.lv
76 / AIRBALTIC.COM
chef Roberts Smilga is using the quiet
time in January to come up with some
new recipes for his kitchen. After fifteen
years working in one of the largest and
fanciest hotel restaurants in Riga, he
enjoys having the opportunity to be
creative instead of being a part of some
large machine whose menu changed
little in the entire time he worked there.
One of his favorites is Latvian wild game
meat, adding little bits here and there
to make a traditional favorite a little bit
more interesting. A spoonful of pret
cranberry jelly on the salmon steak,
perhaps, or a dab of jam on your herring
fillet. And he has discovered that venison
or roe buck steak go great with a little
local jam as a glaze topping. The secret,
he says, is in keeping it simple, and use
the highest quality ingredients, the more
local the better.
Back in late January, sensing the
interests and desires of the restaurant’s
customers, Chef Roberts decided to
expand his menu starting in February
with new game dishes—not just with
beaver meat, but also with venison, since
deer are a popular game animal in Latvia
in the wintertime. Venison Month at the
restaurant 1221 will be something new
and tasty for tourists and other visitors
to the Old City.
The long January nights here in Riga
have gotten a little easier to wait out,
with wild game steaks, a little bit of
pumpkin ice cream, and some nice
wine at a cozy table in one of the
oldest houses in Riga. Yes, I think we
will survive this snowiest of winters,
after all. BO
airBaltic
Kittila / Levi*
Tromso*
Rovaniemi
Lulea*
Umea
Kuusamo*
Vaasa
Visby*
Arkhangelsk*
Pskov*
Moscow Sheremetyevo
Moscow Domodedovo
Hanover*
BUDAPEST
new from May 16
Nice*
Belgrade*
Odessa*
Almaty*
Simferopol*
Madrid*
Yerevan*
Athens*
Dushanbe*
Baku*
Beirut
Amman
Sharm el-Sheikh**
Hurghada**
* Seasonal flights.
** Operated in cooperation with tour operator Tez Tour.
Sharm el-Sheikh**
Hurghada**
Welcome
aboard airBaltic!
78 airBaltic news / 80 Behind the scenes / 82 Aviation training
83 airBaltic Travel / 84 BalticMiles / 86 Meals / 87 Inflight
entertainment / 88 Fleet / 89 Flight map / 92 Contacts
airBaltic / NEWS
Turku
In brief
1/ Double daily flights
to Turku and Oulu
2/ Riga super spa at
special prices
3/ Simpler ways to earn and
spend your BalticMiles points
4/ airBaltic launches
new iPhone service
5/ airBaltic’s customer
service commitment
78 / AIRBALTICTRAVEL.COM
1/ Double daily flights to Turku
and Oulu
From February airBaltic is “doubling up” its popular daily flights to
and from the Finnish cities of Turku and Oulu.
These second flights will operate in the evening and offer better
connections for passengers travelling from Oulu and Turku via Riga
to the Middle East and Russia/CIS destinations. For example there
will now be excellent connections to Amman, Beirut, Tel Aviv and
Dubai.
Turku is one of two European Capitals of Culture in 2011 (the other
is Tallinn, another major airBaltic destination) and has received
a lot of global attention as a result. More flights will give a new
opportunity for travellers to connect to this great city.
One-way ticket prices between Turku and Riga and Oulu and Riga
as well as between Turku and Oulu start from EUR 39.
Altogether in Finland, airBaltic offers flights to and from
10 airports: Helsinki, Oulu, Lappeenranta, Turku, Tampere, Vaasa,
Kuusamo, Kuopio, Rovaniemi and Kittila/Levi.
airBaltic / NEWS
2/ Riga super spa at special prices
ESPA
airBaltic in cooperation with the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija is
offering a travel package to guests who want to combine a trip to
the beautiful nordic capital of Riga with a first-class spa experience
at the biggest and most popular spa in the Baltics – ESPA.
The package includes round-trip flights and transfers to and from
the airport using the Airport Express Shuttle, a one night stay in a
Superior room at the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvia with breakfast, and
a two-and-a-half hour visit to the ESPA Active leisure area featuring
an 18-metre indoor swimming pool, vitality pool with air jets, rock
sauna, steam room, sanarium and more. The package price per
person if sharing a double room starts from EUR 151.
Alternatively, choose a package with all the items above included
plus one ESPA Riga 55-min spa treatment such as the renowned
Aromatherapy Body massage, ESPA Intensive Facial or Ultimate
Body Wrap. This package per person in a double room starts from
EUR 215.
Airport taxes are not included as they may vary according to
your chosen departure airport. Find these and other packages
at www.airbaltic.com in the “Tickets” section. To book a package
send a request by e-mail to: packages@airbaltic.com
3/ Simpler ways to earn and
spend your BalticMiles points
airBaltic is updating its BalticMiles scheme to provide a simpler and
fairer way of earning and spending points on flights.
Starting from February the number of points awarded depends
on how many Euros are spent to cover the flight ticket (including
fare, taxes and surcharges). For each Euro spent, members earn the
standard rate of 5 points (10 points if flying in Business Class).
New ways of spending points are also being introduced to give
the opportunity to fly free to more than 70 destinations. Members
can exchange a fixed number of points to get a free Economy class
ticket as soon as they have earned 5000 points or flown on average
2 times in Business class or 12 times in Economy class.
To find out more about the new earning and spending scheme,
please visit www.airbaltic.com
4/ airBaltic launches new
iPhone service
airBaltic has unveiled
a new iPhone
application to make it
more convenient for
iPhone users to learn
about airBaltic flights
and services.
iPhone and iPad users
can keep track of the
latest timetables for
all airBaltic flights.
Whether planning a
holiday or business
trip, choosing a
destination, or
checking flight
frequencies, the handy
app will save users
both time and money.
The new iPhone tool
also enables users to
check flight status
in real-time whilst
travelling, including
departure and arrival
information, and flight
updates about any flight disruptions.
In addition, the app enables users to conveniently connect to
airBaltic’s Wingtips blog and its Facebook and Twitter content.
airBaltic for iPhones is available in nine languages: English,
Latvian, Russian, Lithuanian, Estonian, Norwegian, Finnish,
Swedish and German. It can be downloaded for free at Apple’s
iTunes site.
5/ airBaltic’s customer service
commitment
The opinions of passengers are very important to airBaltic.
If you have any suggestions how the airline could improve
its service, or if something during your flight didn’t go as
smoothly as you have come to expect, airBaltic welcomes
your feedback. Write to the customer relations department
at: customers@airbaltic.lv.
All passenger claims at airBaltic are answered within 10 working
days, but if the claim concerns baggage (delayed, lost baggage
etc) it will be answered within 5 working days.
Only by understanding your experiences and thoughts can
airBaltic continue to bring you more of what you demand – the
chance to travel the world at speed and in comfort at the best
possible prices.
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 79
airBaltic / BEHIND THE SCENES
Karlis Smiltens,
airBaltic’s Web marketing
manager
Customer
service
through the social media
Kārlis Smiltens is airBaltic’s online marketing and
social media guru. He currently manages the airline’s
web marketing team, which was established in 2009.
With Smiltens at the helm, airBaltic has been at the
vanguard of worldwide trends in online marketing and
communications. Smiltens recently spoke on behalf of
airBaltic at the IATA Commercial Strategy Symposium in
Istanbul, but also found the time to sit down with Baltic
Outlook and discuss how airBaltic is using the internet
and social media to interact with customers.
How did you arrive at airBaltic?
I started working in the advertising industry in Riga
11 years ago. I began as an assistant and worked my
way up to project manager. Along the way, I got to
know the entire advertising industry. About four years
ago, I obtained a position at airBaltic in the marketing
80 / AIRBALTICTRAVEL.COM
department. I was attracted by the charms of aviation.
I can see the runway from my office, and to this day I still
like to watch the planes take off and land. I haven’t gotten
tired of seeing that, perhaps because no two takeoffs or
landings are exactly alike.
When I started to work at airBaltic, web marketing was
just one part of my many duties. Over time, however,
I began to specialize in web marketing. At first I was the
only employee to work in this field, but in April of 2009 –
as the volume of work increased and social media gained
in importance – airBaltic began to realize the growing
significance of that new phenomenon in the industry.
A brand is discussed whether or not its parent company
has a presence in the social media, and that is particularly
true in the aviation industry.
People will talk about you regardless of whether you have
an online presence.
airBaltic / BEHIND THE SCENES
What are your main tasks in the web marketing team?
There are three main things that we work on. The first
is e-marketing and communications. These include our
newsletter and other informative communications. The
next is developing content for the websites of airBaltic
and the companies connected to airBaltic. In this regard,
I have had the opportunity to see how the company has
grown, because when I began working here in the fall of
2006, there was just airBaltic to be concerned about. Now
there are several new niches and businesses, including
airBalticTravel, BalticMiles, BalticBike, airBalticTraining,
airBalticCafe, airBalticPeople and our blog, Wingtips. The
third aspect concerns the management of social media.
We started slowly and carefully. At first only one person
handled everything. However, the Icelandic volcano in
April of 2010 opened our eyes – both at airBaltic and
within the industry as a whole – about the power of social
media and the resources that they demand.
Another advantage of social media is that you can
successfully hear feedback about products or services
or new offers. People aren’t shy in the social media
environment and they react quickly. This isn’t possible in
classical marketing: a person who hears an ad on the radio
probably won’t call the airline and tell them his opinion.
But social media are like a test laboratory, because you can
hear these opinions and take them into account.
The third important aspect is sales and revenue. This is not
yet the driving force in social media, but it is growing. We
can sell more tickets and earn more revenue through the
internet. Today you can even order a pizza or movie tickets
through Facebook. People are accepting this as the norm.
I doubt that aviation leaders will say, “No, we won’t sell
tickets on Facebook.” It’s the future.
What future online products can customers expect?
Our colleagues in the e-business department just
launched an iPhone application. The first phase of this
application provides information about flights, timetables
and current arrivals and departures. Later, in the next
phase, we’ll offer users such functions as mobile check-in,
so you can head straight to the gate and simply scan the
screen of your phone before boarding.
You probably spend most of your workday online.
When do you go offline?
I’m a traditional person – I still appreciate offline things.
My work in international marketing at airBaltic helps
me to balance my responsibilities. One minute I will be
busy working on online campaigns, and then the next
I’ll be carrying boxes of booklets that I need to send to
one of our Eastern markets. The online environment is
important, but it hasn’t taken things over. I still have
offline friends and occasionally still need to shovel the
snow. Sometimes, you have to take a break from the
online world and turn off the internet connection on your
fancy smartphone. BO
airBaltic / Aviation training
airBaltic Brings IATA Training
Courses to the Baltic Region
The mission of the International Air Transport
Association (IATA) is to represent, lead, and serve
the airline industry, and its members comprise some
230 airlines in more than 150 countries worldwide. For
the last sixty years, IATA has developed the standards
that have made aviation one of the most dynamic and
vital industries in the world today.
In order to uphold and continuously improve these
standards, IATA has established a network of Regional
Training Centers to help train the thousands of aviation
employees who sustain the global industry. This month,
the association has approved the airBaltic Training
Center, located at Riga International Airport, as the first
IATA Training and Development Institute (ITDI) Regional
Training Center in the European Union. This new
partnership will contribute to ITDI’s objective of being a
leading provider of global aviation training solutions.
The IATA Regional Training Center will be operated in
collaboration with airBaltic Training, whose world-class
facilities, training organization, and business plan for
future development underwent a lengthy audit process
to make sure they met IATA’s high standards. airBaltic
Training will be the IATA sales agent not only in the
Baltic states, but also in Finland, Sweden, Poland, and
Slovakia, guaranteeing classrooms and training facilities,
transportation, hotel accommodations, and visa services
for both instructors and students.
Thanks to its central location, the city of Riga is easily
accessible for companies throughout the region.
Situated just 13 km from Riga International Airport,
the Latvian capital also provides a wealth of options
for accommodation, dining, and entertainment, as
well as stunning architecture, beautiful beaches, and a
rich history.
The airBaltic Training Center is a modern, stateof-the-art building with marvelous views of the
surrounding landscape. The onsite cafeteria even
offers a glimpse of airBaltic’s planes taking off from
the runway at Riga airport, departing for the airline’s
80 destinations worldwide. For more information
about the IATA Regional Training Center, please visit
airBalticTraining.com. BO
airBaltic / airBalticTravel.com
airBalticTravel.com
your all-in-one travel portal
TOP destinations at
airBalticTravel.com
in 2010
1. Riga
2. Rome
3. Paris
4. Barcelona
5. Istanbul
hoose any destination
C
from our wide offer and
approve or change this
TOP in year 2011!
AirBalticTravel.com
is the online travel
portal where you
can book everything
for your holiday or business trip, from
flights and hotels all over the world to
other additional services such as car
rental, excursions and events.
Package your travel
for smart savings
Planning a flight and know you will need a hotel at your destination
too? Why not book both in a single package at airBalticTravel.com –
you could immediately save at least 20% off the price you pay when
booking a flight and hotel separately!
This way you’ll get return flights with airBaltic or a partner
airline and all applicable airport taxes, surcharges, and hotel
accommodation for the selected number of nights – all in one
package! You can also add a car rental service to the package and
benefit from our special agreement prices from AVIS. And in the
event you’ve already purchased all your other travel arrangements –
you can still make a separate reservation for AVIS cars worldwide.
Plus, here’s another brand new option for airBalticTravel.com: Now
you can even reserve a full range of other great services such as
transfers from/to airports, excursions, entrance tickets and beyond!
What’s more, with each and every booking you make as a package
you get a fixed number of BalticMiles per purchase (250 for flight +
Recharge voucher
hotel and 500 for flight + hotel + car). And don’t forget to put your
miles to work too: You can use your accrued miles for a full or partial
payment for any product you purchase on airBalticTravel.com!
Booking just a hotel? Pay on arrival!
What if you’ve already bought your flight ticket or have alternative
transport? At airBalticTravel.com, you can book a hotel alone when
that’s all you need.
Choose from 90 000 available hotels, from all around the world! And
with plenty of good quality photos, recommendations from other
travellers and the option to search Google maps for the perfect
location, the search is made easy.
Finally, here’s the best part: Anytime you book just hotel
accommodations, pay only upon arrival at the hotel – and there’s no
reservation fee!
For questions and inquiries, the airBalticTravel.com call centre
would be delighted to assist you on +371 67229696.
New BalticMiles partners:
1/ Georg Ots SPA, Estonia
Discover a spa with award-winning interior design inspired by a
simple and pure island environment. Beautifully set beside the sea,
Georg Ots SPA lies on Estonia’s Saaremaa Island near Kuressaare
Castle and accommodates 182 guests.
Its “active spa” offers Finnish saunas, steam rooms, various pools;
both relaxation and beauty packages and even a “private” section
for massages and treatments for the body, face, hands and feet.
This family-friendly hotel has fun for all ages and even includes
supervised playrooms for children. You’ll find facilities available for
your events and can enjoy delicious organic meals in the restaurant.
BalticMiles members earn 500 points per hotel stay
and 100 points per treatment over 25 EUR. For more
information: www.gospa.ee
2/ Unique Hotels, Estonia
Unique Hotels is a small group of lifestyle hotels in the heart of
Tallinn in genuine historical buildings painstakingly renovated for
historical ambience, daring design and modern convenience.
How about a “perfect holiday”? Spanning 500 years of rich history,
the fully renovated Vihula Manor Country Club & Spa is the most
recent edition to the Unique Hotels and lies in beautiful Lahemaa
National Park, only 90 km from Tallinn on Estonia’s northern coast. It
offers supreme comfort and luxury perfect for romantic weekends,
activity breaks, family adventures and conferences for up to
450 delegates.
“Because you are Unique”
BalticMiles members earn 300-500 points per hotel stay and
7 points per 1 EUR spent in the restaurants. Booking info:
www.uniquestay.com
airBaltic / BalticMiles
Do your romantic shopping at
shop.balticmiles.com!
Looking for that perfect Valentine’s present? Browse through the
BalticMiles rewards shop, it’s overflowing with romantic experiences
and charming gifts.
Dinner & Theatre
in Milan for 2
42900 Points
or € 305
airBaltic Concierge
Flowers or Sparkling
Wine service
4158 Points
or € 31
Chocolate Fondue
for 2 in Lithuania
Nina Ricci Gift Set
“Nina”
1870 Points
or € 13
13650 Points
or € 104
Wine Tasting
for 2 in Lithuania
Baldessarini Round
Cufflinks
4132 Points
or € 29
25454 Points
or € 223
Hot Air Balloon Flight
for 2 in Baltics
Philips GoGear MP3
Player 2GB
49186 Points
or € 348
9681 Points
or € 70
All prices displayed include shipping to Latvia. Price and availability are subject to change depending on the delivery country.
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 85
airBaltic / MEALS
Business class / On all airBaltic
flights, Business class passengers will
enjoy a complimentary full meal including
appetizer, hot main course, dessert (except
flights shorter than one hour, where snacks
are served instead), and a wide range of
beverages and alcoholic drinks.
On flights lasting longer than three hours,
we offer a double service—first a full hot
meal served with beverages, followed by a
snack consisting of coffee or tea and a small
dessert. On night flights with early morning
arrival, we provide a “wake-up” service with
tea or coffee and a light breakfast.
Economy class /
meals
Economy
class passengers can purchase a selection
of snacks, hot meals (on flights longer
than 1 h. 30 min.) and beverages from the
onboard menu cards. To save money and
time, preorder your meal before the flight,
either at the airBaltic website or ticket offices.
This will guarantee that your choice will be
available, and that you’ll be served first.
Enjoy freshly made Nespresso
in Business class!
airBaltic Boeing 757-200 and 737-300 aircrafts now have Jacobucci/
Nespresso Coffee Makers installed and offer their business class
passengers the chance to enjoy freshly made espresso and cappuccino
during their flight (except short flights shorter than 1 hour).
There are 4 different Nespresso tastes available:
Espresso Forte
Round and balanced, made exclusively
from South and Central American
Arabicas. The complex aroma of this
intensely roasted espresso is a balance of
strong roasted and fruity notes. Intensity
7 – strong, intensive taste.
Espresso Decaffeinato
Dense and powerful, dark roasted South
American Arabicas with a touch of
Robusta bring out the subtle cocoa and
roasted cereal notes of this full-bodied
decaffeinated espresso. Intensity 7.
86 / AIRBALTICTRAVEL.COM
Lungo Leggero
(Americana, Regular)
Flowery and refreshing coffee with mild
notes of jasmine. A delicate blend of
lightly roasted East African and South and
Central American Arabicas. Intensity 2.
Cappuchino Classic
Espresso Forte + milk foam.
airBaltic / ENTERTAINMENT
INFLIGHT
ENTERTAINMENT
On flights longer than 2 hours 30 minutes,
passengers can rent portable entertainment
devices pre-loaded with movies, cartoons, serials,
music and games.
TV serials: House | Modern Family | The Office | Friends | Glee
For kids: My gym partner's a monkey | Looney Tunes |
The Batman | The Simpsons (new episodes) | Family Guy (new
episodes) | Wallace and Gromit
Despicable Me
Salt
Computer animation
Voices: Julie Andrews, Steve Carell, Jack
McBrayer, Jason Segel, Russell Brand, Will Arnett
Thriller, Drama
Cast: Angelina Jolie, Liev Schreiber, Chjwetel
Ejiofor, Daniel Olbrychski, Andre Braugher
In a happy suburban neighborhood surrounded by white picket fences with flowering rose
bushes, sits a black house with a dead lawn.
Surrounded by a small army of minions, we discover Gru, planning the biggest heist in the history of the world. He is going to steal the Moon
(yes, the Moon!). But then he encounters three
little orphaned girls who choose him to be their
Dad and won’t leave.
As a CIA officer, Evelyn Salt swore an oath to
duty, honor and country. Her loyalty will be
tested when a defector accuses her of being a
Russian spy. Salt goes on the run,
using all her skills and years of experience as a
covert operative to elude capture. Salt’s efforts
to prove her innocence only serve to cast doubt
on her motives, as the hunt to uncover the truth
behind her identity continues.
Predators
Eat Pray Love
Sci-Fi
Cast: Adrien Brody, Topher Grace, Alice Braga,
Walton Goggins
Romance, Drama
Cast: Julia Roberts, James Franco, Richard
Jenkins, Viola Davis, Billy Crudup, Javier Bardem
Chosen for their ability to kill without conscience, a group of killers, some trained and
some who are not, must endeavour the alien
race of predators that have set out to target
them as prey. Dropped into the vast jungle of
a distant world, these human predators must
learn just who, or what, they are up against, and
that their ability, knowledge and wits are tested
to the limits in the battle.
Liz Gilbert is a modern woman on a quest to marvel at and travel the world while rediscovering and
reconnecting with her true inner self. After a divorce, Gilbert takes a sabbatical from her job and
steps uncharacteristically out of her comfort zone.
In her exotic travels, she experiences the simple
pleasure of nourishment by eating in Italy; the
power of prayer in India, and, finally and unexpectedly, the inner peace and balance of love in Bali.
Knight and Day
Action, Comedy
Cast: Tom Cruise, Cameron Diaz, Peter
Sarsgaard, Viola Davis, Olivier Martinez, Paul
Dano, Maggie Grace, Marc Blucas
During their glamorous and sometimes deadly
adventure, nothing and no one – even the now
fugitive couple – are what they seem. Amid shifting alliances and unexpected betrayals, they race
across the globe, with their survival ultimately
hinging on the battle of truth vs. trust. Shot in
Massachusetts, and other locations all around
the world.
Twilight Saga: Eclipse
Romance, adventure
Cast: Kristen Stewart, Robert Pattinson,Taylor
Lautner, Dakota Fanning, Anna Kendrick
Bella once again finds herself surrounded by
danger as Seattle is ravaged by a string of mysterious killings and a vampire continues her quest
for revenge. In the midst of it all, she is forced
to choose between her love for Edward and her
friendship with Jacob – knowing that her decision has the potential to ignite the struggle between vampire and werewolf. Bella is confronted
with the most important decision of her life.
BALTIC OUTLOOK / FEBRUARY 2011 / 87
airBaltic / NEWS
FLEET
Boeing 757-200
Boeing 737-300
Number of aircraft 8
Number of seats 142/144/146
Max take-off weight 63 metric tons
Max payload 14.2 metric tons
Length 32.18 m
Wing span 31.22 m
Cruising speed 800 km/h
Commercial range 3500 km
Fuel consumption 3000 l/h
Engine CFM56-3C-1
Boeing 737-500
Number of aircraft 6
Number of seats 120
Max take-off weight 58 metric tons
Max payload 13.5 metric tons
Length 29.79 m
Wing span 28.9 m
Cruising speed 800 km/h
Q400 NextGen
8
76
29.6 metric tons
8.6 metric tons
Fokker 50
Number of aircraft 10
Number of seats 46/50/52
Max take-off weight 20.8 metric tons
Max payload 4.9 metric tons
32.83 m
Length 25.3 m
28.42 m
Wing span 29.0 m
667 km/h
Cruising speed 520 km/h
Commercial range 3500 km
2084 km
Commercial range 1300 km
Fuel consumption 3000 l/h
1074 l/h
Fuel consumption 800 l/h
Engine CFM56-3
88 / AIRBALTICTRAVEL.COM
P&W 150A
Engine P&W 125 B