Sept-Oct bulletin2008 website.pub

Transcription

SEPT / OCTOBER
2008
The ASRA celebrates
Richard Brooks
Member and Friend
”82 CONSECUTIVE YEARS WITH
THE BIRDS”
A young bird from Kent and Steve
YOUNG
BIRDS
FROM
JOE
O
G
N
I
B
E
N
E
A YOUNG BIRD
FROM RICHARD
BROOKS
YOUNG BIRDS
FROM DJ MORRIS
2
News from the 5th district
From Geoff Teigen
Well the show season is finally here. It comes around faster and faster every year. Did your
breeding season produce what you’d hoped? Any surprise pairs produce better than expected?
Hopefully you’ll be able to attend at least a show or two to see how you fare against everyone
else’s hopefuls.
We’ve got 3 good sized shows in the 5th district this year. Our district show is a little earlier than
usual this year. We’re starting things off in Watsonville, CA Oct 11th-12th at the Great Western
Pigeon Show. This show has been growing over the last few years and is likely to do so again this
time. It will be held in the JJ Crosetti hall at the Santa Cruz County Fairgrounds. It’s a nice venue
with plenty of parking in a picturesque setting against the hills. We’re expecting some good competition from our southern California members who are coming up north to duke it out. We should
easily reach over a 100 entries and hopefully more. It will be a race to get the birds through the
molt in time. Somehow I was chosen to judge the show this year so everyone should look out. I’m
excited to see some nice birds and I don’t expect to be disappointed.
The southern California guys are getting ready for this year’s Pageant of Pigeons on Nov.20th-22nd.
As usual it will take place in San Bernardino, CA at the Orange Show Fairgrounds. This huge show
is one of the highlights in US pigeon shows each and every year. We’re looking forward to this one
as Willie Halpern is coming on down from British Columbia to judge our birds. He may just be trying to enjoy his last sun of the year in California as it starts to get cold up there over the border.
Either way we’re in for a treat with a judge of his caliber. By that point the birds will be completely finished out and in prime feather and form.
The final event of the year will take place in Woodland California on Sat Dec 6th. This is the
Golden Nugget ASR Club’s annual show with Joe Bronner judging. This one day show is an ASR only
meet but is a fun get together with a home made lunch and lots of fellowship. Our members will be
out to claim the last champ of the year here in the district. It will be a nice day for everybody in
attendance as well as the winner.
I wanted to take this opportunity to say that I will not be running for 5th district director for the
upcoming term. Past director Don Hodge has offered to run and will do a fine job in the position.
I’ve enjoyed my term and wish I could have done more. Unfortunately my workload is more than I
can handle at the moment and I must make sacrifices in my responsibilities. I’m happy to see such
a fine bulletin coming out regularly every couple months. Brian has done an exceptional job and
should be commended for his persistent efforts. I challenge each and every one of you to help him
out by submitting articles when possible. I know it’s tough but the club is only as good as we make
it. The new website and availability of the bulletin electronically are also progress in the right direction. I believe I’ll have one more article before the officer changeover so I’ll report on the
show results then.
Best of luck.
3
Grand Champion
Am Show Racer 07-ASR-228
At the 2008Great Lakes National Annual Meet
4
SHOW CHANGE
Due to some changes in availability, we have chosen to
move the ASRA District 1 show from Elkin,NC to
Greenville, SC. The date is changed from Nov. 1 to Nov.
15. The judge will still be me (Jim Armstrong). Entry
fee will be $3.00/bird, with a $2.00 rebate to our district. There are numerous motels and restaurants in the
area. I will forward the show information to you as soon
as I receive it. If there are any Dist. 1 members on this
list, please contact me.
Jim Armstrong
Auburn, AL
334-821-5894 (home - do not leave a message)
334-844-9233 (work)
334-707-1515 (cell)
5
Sorry DJ - below is your
complete article
Brian
6
Some of Grumpy’s beautiful birds
7
IN THE GOOD OLD SUMMER TIME
In the Autumn of 1959 Piet deWeerd, the Dutch Racing Pigeon Wizard, made his first trip to this
country and was my house guest. He had come to America to evaluate the stock birds of several
prominent fanciers. During that visit he told me of a book he had recently completed. The title was
"Spring, Summer Autumn and Winter around the Pigeon Loft" It was written with variable use of the
several languages he spoke plus some words he established unique to the pigeon fellowship. Mr.
deWeerd asked me to help him get it translated into English, which I did. The book, as would be
expected, laid out the daily routines necessary for a successful racing loft throughout the year. I was
especially taken with the section on Summer. The fact is most pigeon fanciers use Summer as "slack
time". During that time we take vacations, go on picnics, celebrate The Fourth of July and Labor Day,
and in general do not spend the intensity of effort normal in the loft during other times. The shows are
a way off. The babies have all arrived and are growing. Leave extra feed and water for that holiday
absence. Get someone else to watch for them while we vacation etc. At that time my interest was
largely racing but I had a few Frills and a few Show Racers, and was showing them. Of course we
need vacations, and picnics and trips to the beach, or elsewhere. However, we must do this realizing
that nature is unforgiving. What isn't done, or isn't done right may bring undesirable results. How does
one handle this? There are probably several answers, and sometimes no answers, but for each of us
there &ust might be a way. I found mine. Prior to that time I was interested in breeding some rare
colors but had been doing so by mating up an available mate to that rare and hoping for the best.
Usually, then and now, I would start breaking up breeders around June first. I always kept a few
feeders (usually cull racers or domestic flights) as feeders for the Frills. So any eggs laid after June
first, with a little pre planning, might find their way under a pair of feeders so the breeding sections
could be cleaned out and ready for sections of young birds, divided by age and sex, by or before July
4th. We usually took our family vacation then. By the end of vacation those late hatch would be ready
for banding. Then it dawned on me. Rather than covering all this breeding at the same time, why not
reuse the very best few breeders with the new color efforts. I began breeding this way for two rounds
in July, August and early September. 1 could have the second round eggs before the end of August,
thus freeing up the top birds for the moult and possible showing, and still get the very best possible
babies out of my color efforts. I believe this is why, over the last 25 years or so, some of my rares
have been among the best birds I have bred. When I retired and moved to Arkansas I brought my loft
from California which was built in movable sections. I added to it and built a 2 story loft plus 3
conditioning pens separately. In the nooks and crannies of these buildings I built small separate
individual pens. Some were only three or four feet square and a foot and a half high as over the
staircase. Others were walk in, some as large as 4 feet by 6 feet. These made great places for
breeding at any time and more especially during the summer when the regular sections were needed
so as not to crowd the young birds (I keep them separated by rounds and later also by sex with six
sections each six feet square and 7 feet high. Once these summer color matings are concluded the
pair can go to one of the conditioning loft sections and their late babies can go to the individuals. I
had a small brooder house for the bantams I used to show. That was converted to a winter section for
the younger babies so I could keep them warm against the sub freezing days of winter, if you want to
breed rares, and don't want to keep large numbers of birds, I recommend this method. I have used It
for almost 50 years and will continue to do so as long as I keep pigeons. By using your very best both
in continuing your standard colors and improving your new and rare colors you aren’t "killing two
birds with one stone" but rather "improving 2 color patterns with one bird"
Richard Brooks, Historian
8
“HEAD EM UP AND MOVE THEM OUT" by Bill Schlieper
This story happened about twenty years ago and I thought that I would share it with you. Some
of the older members may remember reading it.
I have always been an advocate about having my birds as tame as possible and have found that this
has its just rewards. I always talk to my birds when I enter the loft and they have responded in a
manner that they do not fly off the perches when I enter the loft and I can reach out and pickup any
bird without them flying up. I have always thought that any bird can be picked up when you are nervous and will respond accordingly. Therefore the following story developed.
I came back from my early morning walk and low and behold I find all my young cocks out on the
ground around the loft and I found out what had happened, I had left the small door to the fly pen
open after I had given them a bath and they decided to investigate. I opened the large door to the loft
and slowly walk toward the birds talking to them all the time and slowly they were grouping and going
toward the open door. Not a one flew up and they all went back into the loft and was I happy. This
same thing happened to me a year later, but this time the birds were down the driveway and this time it was
the young hens. I slowly went down the driveway talking all the time and they slowly went up the
driveway toward the loft except they went past the gate to the entrance of the field where the loft was
located and I had to get my wife to help me bring them back to the opening where I could try and herd
them into the loft. Well it worked again and without any birds flying up. You can bet that I always
made sure the small door to the fly pen was closed.
The moral to this story is to make your birds feel secure when you are with them and maybe talking
would be a good idea. I am still talking.
9
WHAT COLOR IS IT?
Over the past fifty or more years I have looked at many pigeons. Being strongly attracted by rare and
unusual colors I am subconsciously always on the lookout for that "different one" While this often includes birds of beautiful but recognizable color and pattern, I am speaking here of the more unusual
and difficult to identify patterns. I want to mention a few which still puzzle me, years later. Sometime
in the 1960s Bill Rice showed a cock at the Pageant which was unforgettable. He was of even color.
He wasn’t red. He wasn't yellow. He wasn't orange. And I don't think he was Deroy. Obviously there
was some modifier affecting recessive red, but what was it? The case for Deroy has problems at two
levels. The flights didn’t appear to lighten up, or fade as Deroys do. Second, Deroy is produced by
two genes for recessive red plus one for almond. To the best of my knowledge there was no almonds
In Bill's loft, then or ever. I visited Bill at least once annually and usually a bit more often and never
saw another bird like the one above described, nor did I ever see an almond of any sort. Bill showed
that bird for two seasons but he never showed another. I don't believe he ever bred another, although
I'm pretty certain he tried Years later, after I had retired and moved back here, Larry Schulz showed
a cock whose color is still a mystery to me. That cock was a dark red check with a burnished yellow
neck. By burnished I mean a bronzy look in the yellow. Larry bred this cock for several years but
never produced anything. He then loaned him to me and I tried for two years to produce something.
Nothing. Some called the bird a mosaic. Mosaic, as used in pigeon genetics, means that two sperm
fertilized the same egg and both exert influence. More often seen they may reflect one wing as red
and the other as blue or black, or one wing barred and the other checked. I have bred them. They
have all been cocks. They have all been fertile but never did even one throw a mozaic. At any rate I
feel the Rice and Schulz birds were not mosaics in the usual sense of the word. About four or five
years ago Doratha Connally bred two velvet red brothers with heavy black intermingled in their
necks. This is a most beautiful and fascinating pattern. 1 have spoken with her several times regarding breeding this. She tells me these two cocks do not breed what they show. Why? Then, two years
ago I bred the granddaddy of all color mixes. This is a very dark check cock with much deep red burnishing in his neck and to a lesser extent over his checking, his back and into his flights. His face is a
standard grayish grizzle. Several of his flights have dark on one side of the shaft and either white or
mingled white on the other side. His lower back and Cushion are a tight dove gray sprinkled with a
darker splattered pattern. This carries back alongside the tail for about two inches from the body. This
pigeon was bred in an individual. His nest mate is a yellow check cock. The mother is a dark check
silver hen (the one that won her class at the DesMoines National) the father is 4117, the old red
check cock that was reserve champion at DesMoines the year before the National. The silver hen
shows no off coloring at all. The red cock carries blue black, barring and dilute. This pair bred 3 yellow cocks, a yellow hen, 2 red hens, a red cock, 2 silver hens and this multi colored bird, all in 2007.
This year I mated this cock to an almond hen. I knew she carried almond, T pattern black check, recessive red and indigo. In the first nest they bred a silver hen with no off markings on her and a hen
that appears to be an ordinary red check except her flights are tinted red toward the total flight except
for the tips and her tail is slightly more blue tinted than ash. I believe she is a red indigo check. These
are almost certainly both hens. The next round is two almonds. As almond is sex linked these will
both be cocks. If you have any experience with such color mingling, and would care to correspond
with me about it, I'd be very interested. Incidentally, neither parent of this cock shows, has any
known ancestors that show, or have produced young that show either the grizzle or the dove gray
mingling seen in this bird. I have included 4 separate examples of this color blending to various degrees over almost fifty years. I have never read anything anywhere discussing logical possibilities as
to why this happens. Richard Brooks, Historian
10
11
NationalPigeonAssociationMembers Information
Veterinarians and published here and in the CU yearbook, just be aware that all dosages are for the US gallon (4 liters)
which is 1/5 smaller than our Imperial gallon (4.55 liters). Remember to increase these dosages by 1/5 for our gallon, the
New Zealand and Australian gallon. For example, if the correct dosage in the formulary is given as 1 teaspoon per gallon,
increase it to approximately 1 tsp per gallon, etc. As well you can simply use these dosages for 4 liters of water.
For those of you who use the treatment formulary prepared by the Association of Pigeon Veterinarians and published here
and in the CU yearbook, just be aware that all dosages are for the US gallon (4 liters) which is 1/5 smaller than our Imperial
gallon (4.55 liters). Remember to increase these dosages by 1/5 for our gallon, the New Zealand and Australian gallon. For
example, if the correct dosage in the formulary is given as 1 teaspoon per gallon, increase it to approximately 1 tsp per gallon, etc. As well you can simply use these dosages for 4 liters of water.
General Considerations Purpose: The purpose of this formulary is to provide a concise, accurate description and
proper dosage of the common drugs used in pigeons. Experience has shown that various sources provided vastly different
dosage levels. Some of which were so high that they were toxic, other to low that they weren't effective. The dosages and
other information in this publication were gathered from multiple knowledgeable sources and are the proper dosages and
information to the best of our knowledge. It must be noted, however, that some of this information is based on experience
of individuals, not carefully controlled scientific studies. This is especially true for the drugs listed that are not specifically
made for or approved for use in pigeons.
Dosage Levels: You will find many of the drugs listed to be given in mg/bird, mg/pound, or mg/gallon, instead of teaspoons or tablespoons per gallon. The reason is that many of the drugs come in various concentrations. Because of that, a
teaspoon of one preparation doesn't equal a teaspoon of another preparation of the same drug. This often results in toxic or
ineffective levels being used. This poses no problem for most of the prescription drugs as they are usually listed in milligram
equivalents. However, some OTC (over the counter) preparations do not give you the number of milligrams per teaspoon.
When this occurs you must figure that out on your own.
The following is an example:
You buy a drug OTC that comes as a powder in a plastic bag. It tells you that there are 10 grams of the drug in
that bag. Empty the bag and measure how many teaspoons of powder you have. You find that you have 20
teaspoons. So you have 10 grams/20 teaspoons or .5 gram/tsp. 0.5 gram = 500 mg (see chart) so your drug
has 500 mg/teaspoon. Figure how many teaspoons per gallon you need from that. (i.e. if you need 1000
mg/gallon, you need 2 teaspoons per gallon.
You buy a drug OTC that comes in a liquid. You are told that it is a 20% solution. That means there are 20
grams of the drug in every 100 ml_ of solution. There are 20 teaspoons in 100 mL (see chart), so there is one
gram of drug in every teaspoon of liquid in the bottle. One gram is equal to 1000 mg so you have 1000 mg of
drug per teaspoon. Figure what you need from that.
Dosage Range: Many of the drugs give you a dosage range. This is done for 2 reasons:
1. The lower dose may be used in mild infections but the higher dose may be needed in more severe infections.
2. Since most drugs are given in the water, the amount of the drug a pigeon gets varies with how much water
he drinks. We assumed that in hot weather 30 birds drink a gallon/day and in cold weather 60 birds drink a
gallon per day. The low dose is figured on the 30 bird/day consumption level and the high dose on the 60
bird/day consumption level. This is a very important principle to keep in mind with the more toxic drugs such as
dimetridazole (Emtryl).
Dosage Intervals: It is important to give the drug for the proper length of time. Failure to do so often results in poor
response, relapse of the disease after the drug is stopped, and production of resistant strains of organisms.
Diagnosis: Establishment of a proper diagnosis before treatment begins is extremely important. Shotgun treatment often
produces poor results, delays recovery to when the proper drug is finally found, and often produces drug-resistant bacteria
and parasites. We can not stress strongly enough, in the case of antibiotics, that a culture and sensitivity be done to make
sure the antibiotic used is needed and effective. Just because a drug is noted to be effective against many cases of E. coli
doesn't mean it is effective against all cases. More and more drug-resistant bacteria occur every day and can best be
treated when proper diagnostics are used first. Continued on page 7
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Helpful Measurements and Equivalents:
The following table may be helpful in converting various measurements
1 gram
1 cubic centimeter (cc)
5 cc
15 cc
30 cc
1000 cc
8 oz
2 cups
2 pints
4 quarts
1000 mg (milligrams)
1 milliliter (m])
1 teaspoon
1 tablespoon
6 teaspoons or 2 tablespoons
1 liter
1 cup
1 pint
1 quart
1 gallon
ANTIBIOTICS ANTIMICROBIALS
(Remember: for the Imperial gallon used in Canada, the dosages given here should be increased by one fifth).
Also: the word "bacteriacidal" means that bacteria are killed by the drug; "bacteriostatic" means that bacterial growth
is stopped by the drug.
Name: Amoxicillin trihydrate (Commercial names: Amoxil, Amoxi-drops, many others)
•
Description: Amoxicillin is a semisynthetic analogue of penicillin with a broad range of bactericidal activity against many
Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria.
Usage: Amoxicillin can be used with any bacterial infection showing susceptibility to the drug.
•
•
•
•
Adverse reactions: None seen with any frequency.
Dosage: 25 - 50 mg/bird divided daily or 1500 - 3000 mg/gallon of water for 10 - 14 days.
Comments: Amoxicillin is very effective, well absorbed, safe, and well tolerated in the pigeon.
Name: Cephalexin (Commercial name: Keflex, many others)
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Description: Cephalexin is a member of the cephalosporin group of antibiotics and is effective against a broad range of Gram
positive and Gram negative bacteria.
Usage: Bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to cephalexin.
•
•
•
•
Dosage: 25 - 50 mg/bird or 750 - 3000 mg/gallon of water for 10 - 14 days.
Comments: Well tolerated by pigeons and readily accepted in the water. Reported as very effective against streptococcal
infections.
Name: Chloramphenicol (Commercial name: Chloromycetin, many others)
•
Description: Chloramphenicol is a bacteriostatic antibiotic used against a broad range of Gram positive and Gram negative
bacteria.
Usage: Bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to chloramphenicol.
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•
•
Dosage: 30 - 50 mg/bird 2 - 3 times/day intramuscularly. Ophthalmic ointment or drops are useful for conjunctivitis used two
times daily.
• Comments: This drug is broken down so quickly by crop flora, adequate blood levels are hard to attain through oral treatment.
Name: Doxycycline (Commercial name: Vibramycin)
•
Description: Doxycycline is a bacteriostatic antibiotic with a wide range of activity against Gram positive and Gram negative
bacteria.
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•
•
•
•
Usage: Doxycycline con be used in bacterial infections susceptible to the drug.
Adverse reactions: None reported as common.
Dosage: 10 - 50 mg/bird once a day.
Comments: Preparations require individual bird dosing. Very effective against chlamydia. Remove calcium containing grit
during use (oyster shell, health grit), as calcium will bind the drug and decrease absorption. Note: Pfizer, the company that produced Vibramycin, no longer produces it.
Name: Enrofloxacin (Commercial name: Baytril)
•
Description: Enrofloxacin is a synthetic chemotherapeutic agent from the quinolone class of drugs. It has antibacterial ac-
tivity against a broad spectrum of Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria. it is rapidly absorbed and penetrates all body
tissues well.
Usage: Enrofloxacin can be used with any bacterial infection showing susceptibility to the drug.
•
•
•
Adverse reactions: Enrofloxacin causes increased mortality in the egg when the hen is treated during egg formation.
It will cause cartilage abnormalities in growing squabs, especially during the lst week to 10 days of age. This, however, is
not always seen.
• Dosage: 5 - 10 mg/bird divided daily for 7 - 14 days. 150 - 600 mg/gallon for 7 - 14 days.
•
Comments: Probably the best drug we have for the Gram negative infections of pigeons -- E. coli and paratyphoid infec-
tions. It is the only drug shown to prevent recurrence of shedding in most cases of salmonella infection at 6 mg/lb for 10 days.
We assume that this means the carrier state has been eliminated in these birds. The liquid water-soluble form is available in
Canada. Tablets are not water soluble.
Name: Erythromycin (Commercial name: Gallimycin)
•
Description: Erythromycin is in the macrolide family of antibiotics. It is bacteriostatic and is effective against Gram positive
bacteria and mycoplasmas.
Usage: Any bacterial infection shown to susceptible to erythromycin.
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•
•
•
Adverse reactions: None that are common.
Dosage: 50 mg/bird divided twice a day for 7 - 10 days. 1500 - 3000 mg/gallon for 7 - 10days.
Comments: Erythromycin is broken down quickly by crop bacteria and thus levels found in the water for flock treatment are
probably not as effective as bolus doses to individual birds.
Name: Lincomycin (Commercial name: Lincocin)
•
Description: Lincomycin is in the macrolide family of antibiotics and is bacteriostatic against Gram positive bacteria and
mycoplasmas.
•
•
Dosage: 50 mg/bird divided twice a day for 7 - 10 days. 1500 - 3000 mg/gallon for 7 - 10 days.
Comments: Lincomycin is broken down quickly by the crop flora and thus levels found in the water for flock treatment are
probably not as effective as bolus doses to individual birds.
Name: Lincomycin/Spectino mycin (Commercial name: LS 50)
•
Description: Lincomycin/spectino mycin is a combination macrolide/aminoglyc oside antibiotic that is bacteriostatic against
a broad range of Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria and mycoplasmas.
• Usage: Used in a broad range of bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to lincomycin/spectino mycin..
•
•
•
Dosage: 50 mg/bird (of lincomycin) daily for 7 - 10 days. 1500 3000 mg/gallon (of lincomycin) for 7 - 10 days.
Comments: Poor palatibilty for pigeons. The lincomycin is broken down quickly by crop bacteria, and thus levels in the wa-
ter during flock treatment are not as effective as bolus doses. Spectinomycin is not absorbed from the gastrointestinal tract.
This drug is widely overused and of questionable value in pigeon medicine.
Name: Nitrofurazone (Commercial name: Furacin, many others)
•
Description: Nitrofurazone is an antimicrobial shown to be effective against a wide range of gram + and gram - bacteria. It
is also coccidiostatic.
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•
•
•
•
Usage: Bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to nitrofurazone, and coccidiosis.
Adverse reactions: Nitrofurazone is an intestinal irritant and causes a decrease in vigor when given to pigeons.
Dosage: 1 teaspoon/gallon of water soluble powder for 5 - 7 days.
Comments: This drug is highly overused in pigeons and is much less effective than other products. Probably has minimal appli-
cation in pigeon medicine.
Name: Sodium Sulfachlorpyridazin e (Commercial name: Vetisulid)
•
Description: Sodium sulfachlorpyridazin e is an antibacterial agent that is bacteriostatic against a wide range of gram + and gram
bacteria. It is also coccidiostatic.
• Usage: Bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to sodium sulfachlorpyridazin e, and coccidiosis.
•
•
•
Dosage: 1200 mg/gallon for 7 - 10 days. 2/3 to 3/4 teaspoon of Vetisulid powder/gallon for 7 - 10 days.
Comments: Vetisulid is very effective in many cases of E. coli infection. It is also a coccidiostat, however, other drugs are more
commonly used in coccidiosis.
Name: Spectinomycin (Commercial name: Spectoguard)
•
Description: Spectinomycin is a bacteriacidal antibiotic that is effective against a broad range of Gram positive and Gram nega-
tive bacteria.
• Usage: Any bacterial infection shown to be susceptible to spectinomycin.
•
•
•
Dosage: 1000 mg/gallon for 7 - 10 days. 25 mg/bird twice a day IM.
Comments: As an aminoglycoside, spectinomycin is not absorbed from the intestinal tract. It has been used with some success
with intestinal infections, but is not effective against systemic infections.
Name: Sulfadiazine/ trimethoprim (Commercial name: Ditrim)
•
Description: Ditrim is a synthetic antibacterial combination product that is bacteriostatic against a wide range of Gram positive
and Gram negative bacteria.
Usage: Bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to sulfadiazine/ trimethoprim.
•
•
•
•
Dosage: 30 mg/bird once a day for 7 - 14 days.
Comments: only available in pill and injectable form for individual bird dosing.
Name: Sulfamethoxazole/ trimethoprim (Commercial name: Bactrim, many others)
•
Description: Sulfamethoxazole/ trimethoprim is a synthetic antibacterial combination product that is bacteriostatic against a broad
range of Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria.
• Usage: Bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to the drug.
•
•
•
Dosage: 30 mg/bird twice daily for 7 days. 1800 - 3600 mg/gallon for 7 days.
Comments: A good drug in many cases of Gram negative bacterial infections. Some preparations dissolve poorly in water.
Name: Tetracyclines - Chlortetracycline (Commercial name: Aureomycin), oxytetracycline (Commercial name: Terramycin)
•
Description: The tetracyclines are bacteriostatic antibiotics that are effective against various Gram positive and Gram negative
bacteria. Cross resistance is common.
Usage: Tetracyclines can be used in bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to them. Adverse reactions: None that are com-
•
mon.
• Dosage: 20 - 25 mg/bird three times daily. 600 - 1500 mg/gallon for 7 - 14 days. 4 teaspoons/gallon for regular strength preparations and 2 teaspoons/gallon for concentrates.
• Comments: Binds with calcium so consider pulling grit containing calcium (oyster shell and health grits) during use. Very effective
in respiratory infections (ornithosis complex) especially when combined with Tylan. Chlamydia are typically very susceptible to tetracycline drugs.
15
Name: Tylosin (Commercial names: Tylan, Tylocine)
• Description: Tylosin is a macrolide antibiotic that is bacteriostatic against many Gram positive bacteria and mycoplasmas.
• Usage: Bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to tylosin. Adverse reactions: None that are common.
• Dosage: 50 mg/bird divided daily. 1500 - 3000 mg/gallon for 7 - 14 days.
• Comments: Very effective against mycoplasma and against the ornithosis complex when combined with tetracyclines.
COCCIDIOSTATS
Name: Amprolium (Commercial names: Corid, Amprol)
•
Description: Amprolium is a chemical that is very similar to thiamine (vitamin B1) in structure. It is coccidiostatic by substitut-
ing for thiamine during the coccidia life cycle.
Usage: As a coccidiostat.
•
•
•
•
Dosage: 1 teaspoon/gallon (20% powder) for 3 - 5 days. 6 - 12 mL/gallon (9% solution) for 3 - 5 days.
Comments: Amprolium is highly effective, can be mixed with other drugs, and doesn't seem to affect performance. It is con-
sidered by many to be the drug of choice for coccidiosis. Vitamins should not be used during treatment, but are recommended by
many after treatment.
Name: Sulfamethazine (Commercial name: Sulmet)
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•
•
•
•
Description: Sulfamethazine is a sulfa drug that is coccidiostatic.
Usage: As a coccidiostat.
Adverse reactions: May decrease vigor when used for the full course of treatment.
Dosage: 1 tablespoon/gallon for 3 - 5 days.
Comments: A popular coccidiostat but no better than amprolium in most cases. Birds typically become listless during treat-
ment (full 5 days of treatment) and therefore it is not recommended for use during racing.
ANTIPROTOZOALS
Name: Carnidazole (Commercial name: Spartrix)
•
Description: Carnidazole is in the 5-nitro-imidazole family of compounds and has been shown to have significant antiproto-
zoal activity.
• Usage: trichomoniasis (canker).
•
•
•
Adverse reactions: None reported with proper dosage.
Dosage: One 10 mg tablet per pigeon on an empty crop,
Comments: Convenient one day dosage, but recurrence is quicker than with water treatments. Only drug labelled for use in
pigeons in the United States.
Name: Dimetridazole (Commercial name: Emtryl - 40% water-soluble powder available in Canada)
•
Description: Dimetridazole is in the 5-nitro-imidazole family of compounds and has been shown to have significant antiproto-
zoal activity.
Usage: trichomoniasis (canker).
•
•
•
Adverse reactions: Central nervous signs with overdosage. Fatalities can occur.
Dosage: 1 teaspoon per gallon for 5-7 days for the Canadian gallon (4.55 litres), 3/4 teaspoon per US gallon (4 liters) for 5-7
days (See: "Canker" in text for info on use of Emtryl in very hot weather).
• Comments: Very good for flock treatment, legal in Canada but illegal in the USA. Overdosage and underdosage are common
problems among fanciers. Under dosing, for example, has already resulted in the development of highly resistant strains of the
canker organism in Europe.
Name: Metronidazole (Commercial name: Flagyl)
•
Description: Metronidazole is in the 5-nitro-imidazole family of compounds and has been shown to have significant antiproto-
zoal activity.
Usage: trichomoniasis. Poorly soluble in water, so not good in flock treatment.
•
•
Adverse reactions: Over dosage can result in central nervous system signs and death.
16
•
Dosage: 50 - 100 mg/bird daily for 4 - 6 days. Note: poor solubility in water.
Name: Ronidazol (Commercial name: Ridzol)
•
Description: Ronidazol is in the 5-nitro-imidazole family of compounds and has been shown to have significant antiprotozoal
activity.
• Usage: trichomoniasis.
• Adverse reactions: None at the proper dosage.
• Dosage: 1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon per gallon for 3 - 5 days. 400 mg/gallon for 3 - 5 days.
• Comments: Reported far superior to any drug in the States. Less toxic and more effective. Approved for use only in Europe.
ANTIMALARIAL DRUGS
Name: Primaquine (Commercial name: Aralen)
•
•
•
•
•
Description: Primaquine is an 8-aminoquinoline compound having antimalarial activity.
Usage: Haemoproteus.
Adverse reactions: None with the given dosage.
Dosage: 1 - 2 tablets/gallon for 10 - 21 days before the race season. Then 1 - 2 days weekly.
Comments: Primaquine is available as Aralen which also contains chloroquine. When used at the stated dosage, the drug
will not cure but only suppress haemoproteus infection in the pigeon, thus alleviating signs.
Name: Quinacrine HCl (Commercial name: Atabrine)
•
•
•
•
Description: Quinacrine is a bright yellow compound with antimalarial activity.
Usage: Haemoproteus.
Adverse reactions: None with proper dosage.
Dosage: 1 1/2 (meaning one and a half) to 3 tablets/gallon (4 litres) for 10 - 21 days before the race season. Then 1 - 2 days
weekly during the race season.
Comments: Quinacrine will not cure haemoproteus, only suppress its numbers in the pigeon, thus alleviating symptoms. It is
•
bitter and not well accepted by the birds.
ANTHELMINTICS
Name: Fenbendazole (Commercial name: Panacur)
•
Description: Fenbendazole is a member of the benzamidizole class of anthelmintics and is effective against a large variety of
intestinal nematodes.
• Usage: Ascarids (roundworms) , Capillaria (threadworms) , Strongyles, and Tetrameres (stomach worms). Not effective
against cestodes (tapeworms).
• Adverse reactions: Can cause feather abnormalities at the higher dosage, especially in hot weather when they are drinking a
lot. It should not be used during the molt or in birds feeding youngsters.
Dosage: 5 mg/bird daily for 3 days.
•
•
Comments: Very effective, but not commonly used.
Name: Ivermectin (Commercial names: Ivomec, Eqvalen)
•
•
Description: Ivermectin is derived from the avermectins, a family of highly active, broad spectrum, antiparasitic agents.
Usage: Broad spectrum wormer. Effective against Ascarids (roundworms) , Capillaria (hairworms), and stomach wall worms.
Some resistance developing.
• Adverse reactions: None.
•
Dosage: 500 -1000 ug per bird. Can be dosed in the drinking water, but the efficacy of this method is debatable. The surest
way is to treat the pigeons individually. 1 to 2 drops by mouth of Ivomec is the correct dose. The higher dosage is needed to treat
roundworms and, for some reason, even this is occasionally ineffective.
Comments: This is a very effective and safe drug. Ivomec, the cattle preparation cannot be mixed well with water, thus birds
•
must be individually dosed. Eqvalen, the horse product is water soluble and may be mixed in the water. Wormer of choice for all
worms except tapeworms.
17
Name: Levamisole (Commercial names: Tramisol, Ripercol)
•
•
•
•
•
Description: Levamisole is used to treat against susceptible nematodes (worms).
Usage: Ascarids, Capillaria (poor)
Adverse reactions: Some birds will vomit the drug.
Dosage: 1500 mg/gallon for 3 days.
Comments: Effectiveness is highly variable, especially with Capillaria. This common wormer is probably highly overused and
should be replaced with more effective drugs such as ivermectin and mebendazole.
Name: Mebendazole (Commercial name: Telmintic)
•
Description: Mebendazole is a member of the benzamidizole class of anthelmintics and is effective against a large variety of
intestinal nematodes.
Usage: Ascarids, Capillaria, Strongyles, and Tetrameres (stomach worms). Not effective against cestodes (tapeworms).
•
•
Adverse reactions: Can cause feather abnormalities at higher doses and should not be used during the moult or in birds
feeding youngsters.
Dosage: 2 1/2 (meaning two and a half) mg per bird for 3 to 5 days. 1/4 to 1/2 (meaning one quarter to one half) teaspoon
•
per gallon of Telmintic dog wormer for 3 to 5 days.
Comments: Very effective for a lot of parasites. With the advent of water soluble ivermectin (Eqvalen), this drug will probably
•
be used less and less.
Name: Piperazine (many commercial preparations)
•
•
•
•
•
Description: Piperazine is an anthelmintic used for ascarids.
Usage: Roundworms.
Adverse reactions: None.
Dosage: 300 mg/gallon for 2 days. 16 mg/bird for 2 days.
Comments: Very common narrow spectrum anthelmintic. It is not commonly used. Drug only sedates the worm and the bird
must pass the worm before the drug is gone or it will remain in the pigeon.
Name: Praziquantal (Commercial name: Droncit)
•
•
•
•
•
Description: Praziquantal is a drug shown to have excellent antiparasitic activity against cestodes.
Usage: Cestodes (tapeworms)
Adverse reactions: None.
Dosage: 5 to 12 1/2 (meaning 'five to twelve and a half) mg per bird orally or by subcutaneous injection once.
Comments: Most people give 1/4 (meaning 'one quarter') of a cat-size Droncit tablet per bird. Drug of choice for tapeworms.
Very safe and effective.
Methods for the Microscopic Examination of Pigeon Droppings
Method #1
1. Place 1 - 2 teaspoons of fresh droppings in a container and add 1 ounce of water.
2. Mix thoroughly to make a uniform suspension.
3. Half fill a test tube, a small vial, or a plastic pill bottle with this suspension. Fill the other half with sugar
solution. Mix well.
4. Place 1-2 drops of mixture on a glass slide and cover with a cover slip. Let sit for a few minutes to allow
worm eggs and coccidia to float to the top. Examine microscopically for worm eggs and coccidia.
Sugar Solution -- add 1 1/2 oz of table sugar to just over 1 oz of water. [You can make up more volume at a
time by increasing the proportions of sugar and water -- the original directions call for 1 Ib of table sugar and
12 - 13 oz (355 ml) of distilled water]. Shake to dissolve.
Method #2
1. Add Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) to Vz pint of boiling water until the Epsom salts no longer dissolve. Cool
and store.
18
2. Mix a small volume of droppings with twice as much Epsom salt solution. Mix well and allow to
stand for a few minutes.
3. 3. Place 1-2 drops of mixture on a glass slide, add a cover slip and examine microscopically for
worm eggs and coccidia.
Method #3
• Note: A commercial method called a Fecalyzer kit may be available through your veterinarian. The
principle is similar to that of the previous two methods.
Reprinted from a article submitted on the NPA website by Stan Ryan - NPA district 2 director
19
"This ‘n That in
Show Racers"
By: Jim Armstrong — Auburn, AL
ASRA Publicity Director
I just got back from dropping
a dead bird off at the USDA Veterinary Diagnostic Lab here on
campus. It is the second bird to die
in 3 days. Normally, I go years
without sickness in the loft so,
obviously, I am a concerned. My
preliminary diagnosis is canker/
trichomoniasis. Something like this
sure makes you appreciate when
things go smoothly.
Overall, reports from the
ASRA indicate pretty good
production and the quality should
be good at the shows. One trend
that I've noticed over the last few
years is that the quality runs deeper
in the class. There are still a few
Master Breeders that dominate the
top places but the birds that are
finishing next to theirs are much
closer to the top birds. This is great
because it keeps interest and
enthusiasm going as we strive to
catch those top runners.
Richard Brooks
Richard Brooks of Holiday Island,
Arkansas is one of the ASR breeders that has stayed "in the hunt"
for years. Richard has bred pigeons for 76 years (no, that's not a
misprint - I said 76) and ASR's
for over 50 years. He traces his
start back to 2 red "commies" that
he saw on a barn roof when he was
6 years old. The very next day his
father brought him 2 reds. Those
birds soon gave way to racing
homers when Richard was 10. He
also started with Oriental Frills as a
youth and stayed active in the Frill
Fancy until just recently. In 1953
he received a gift of 2 pair of ASR's
from Babe Twombly. He ultimately replaced the two cocks
with two birds from Jack Hamilton and has been going strong
ever since.
Richard is a retired minister
and, true to that profession, he
likes to talk. Therefore, it is not
surprising that he lists "fun and
fellowship" as his greatest pleasures in the hobby. However, Richard has not spent all his time talking because he has produced some
outstanding birds as well. Over the
years, Richard has had 1 National
Champion, 4 Reserve National
Champions, and several birds in
the Final Four. In addition to these
ASRA National Meet awards, he
has had numerous wins at such
prestigious sanctioned/ district
meets as the Pageant, Louisville,
Des Moines and Tulsa. Birds from
Richard have produced well for
others and he notes that 2 additional National Champions were
bred in other lofts from pairs acquired from Richard.
Like most ASRA/NPA Master Breeders, Richard has supported and promoted the hobby in
ways other than just exhibiting the
birds. He is a prolific writer and
has written for all of the pigeon
publications throughout the years.
His activities in the hobby have
earned him the NPA Hall of Fame
Award, the Frank Hollman Award,
the ASRA Master Service Award
and many others. In addition, he
has served in EVERY office of the
ASRA. Richard is truly an allaround pigeon fancier who is active
in all aspects of the hobby.
With over 76 years of pigeon
experience, Richard is certainly
qualified to comment on the direction the ASR is going. He
feels that the uniformity in appearance of the birds has really improved in recent years. Richard
views the ASRA as a real positive
for the breed especially the fellowship, the super Bulletin and the
Novice Program. Consistent with
the views of other top breeders, Richard cautions against placing too
much emphasis on any particular aspect of the bird. He notes that
ASR's need to station properly in
the show pen but they are living
creatures and should be able to
move also.
Richard has been a great asset
to our breed and the hobby over the
years. Thank you, Richard, for
your devotion and work on behalf
of the American Show Racer.
Reprinted
Debut 2003
from
the
Pigeon
Note: Richard has had
birds for 81 years
DISTRICT DIRECTORS
Please remember this
year we are all using the
same show report. This will
standardize the reports with
all the information the member needs. Mike Conway has
already sent these forms to
you. This is the same report
that the National uses as well
as Titus.
Thank you
20
"Consistency Procedure
In Judging"
H
By: Cass Child
ow do some of today's
finest Show-Racer judges
approach making their selections in
the larger classes of Blue Bar and
the Blue/Black Checker classes?
This is at the District and National
level where they can be fairly deep in
numbers and quality, if you'll recall,
the depth we had at our ASRA National Meets at San Bernardino, Myrtle Beach and Milwaukee and how
the judge
approached these
classes.
How do you make selections
smoothly, handle all the birds, check
those bodies and keep track of
quality? What way is best to make
sure no exhibitor feels neglected,
that you didn't give his bird a fair
chance to place or win?
It is very important that each
exhibitor
is
afforded
the
opportunity for his pigeon to show
and look its very best. This means
that we, as judges, must do our
uppermost to make the bird show,
using the judging stick and placing
the bird in the judging cage with the
supreme care of a tactician.
When the class is 15 to 30 deep,
working the birds into 3 groups is a
good way to go to make your
selection. Group #1: birds that look
like a Champion just standing in the
cage and upon handling the bird, it
also has a great body. Group #2:
the bird looks great in the cage, but
has a poor body. It has that all
feather feel, a sickly feeling, no
body, soft. Group #3: Neither looks
good in the cage, won't station at all
and with a poor body to go along with
it.
If you find the first group
themselves are quite large, try
separating the class by moving the
potential keepers to the front after
each bird's examination. Say the
class is 15 deep and you must place 8
of them. As you go down the line handling bird by bird and making your
mark at the birds that are potential
keepers, you find that there are 8
with good looks and better than
average bodies. You have now
completed the initial go through of
the class. Before you dismiss the
other 7 birds, take one last look to
make sure you are not missing a
keeper. Now you have the class cut
to the birds to be placed 1 through 8.
Here are the great looking birds with
station and full solid bodies. Quite
often you find the #1 bird in the
class is easy to place, finding #2, #3
and #4 is more difficult and may take
another handling of the group to place
them.
You are using something close to
74% on sight values. This is how the
bird looks to the eye. Some 26% of
the bird is handling and feel of the
body and feather condition.
When you are trying to sort top
quality and then to pick the winner.
After you've handled them all and
have the best in front of you, take a
step or two back. Look at your lineup
of birds to better determine overall
balance, station and proportions. A
Show-Racer should look like what it's
supposed to look like....meaning ShowRacer type. This is a smooth, tight
feathered, showy, powerful and on
the medium to small size pigeon.
Look for the birds with form.
Excellent care of your show team
brings health. Maintaining good health
brings condition and condition brings
form. Form is a showman's prayer.
If your bird is beautifully well
balanced and proportioned, looks
the picture of health, it has to be in
form.
Concentrate, focus your thoughts
on the Standard and Show-Racer
type. Try to keep as much
organization as you possibly can.
Think of it as being very definite.
This makes it much easier on the
exhibitors to follow you and enjoy
the judging process. Your judging
pattern should be the same, class
after class, from beginning to end, so
that no one has a reason to feel
neglected, so that they get their
entry's worth. Every bird within the
class gets a fair evaluation.
Exhibitors, "devoted masters
of the show game", and spectators
alike use precious vacation time.
You spend an inordinate amount of
time and money to attend and support
your National pigeon show and Annual Meet. We can't say enough of
the efforts of the host District,
who's committee members knock
themselves out to make the show possible and a success. It seems in perfection and constant striving is our
lives in the show game.
Judges at our shows have a
tremendous responsibility to conduct
the most professional performance
possible. The show game of ShowRacers has always been and will
always remain an exciting challenge,
with something new to learn at every
show, be it exhibiting or in the "hot
seat" judging. Remember to have
fun.
Reprinted from the Nov / Dec 2000
ASRA
bulletin
21
"Beginning Judges of
Show Racers"
Likewise the fellow looking for the good start working the best 3 or 4 side by side,
By: Richard Brooks
terrible fault. By the same token, the bal- others down to lower tier). Sometime the
If you've been showing pigeons for a few
years and have won more than your fair
share of trophies and plaques, sooner or
later you are going to be asked to judge a
show. Most likely the first invitation will be for
a small show, but that's enough to put a knot
in your stomach, especially if you haven't
previously bred other breeds and judged a
show or two. Such a nervous feeling is normal, but shouldn't cause undue concern.
You can do it and possibly as well as the
next fellow. There are a few rules and observations, however.
First off, most judges are some-what
subjective in their selections in that most of
us tend to pick, as win-ners, those birds
most resembling our own best birds. We
don't consciously think about this, but we do
it.
Secondly, we usually go one of two ways in
selection and elimination. Some judges look
for faults. If they spot a bird not stationing
exactly right, out it goes. The same for a light
col-ored eye, a shallow head, a short
beak, long legs, you name it. Other judges
look for strengths. If they can find a nice
large well shaped head they are happy.
Perhaps they delight in that perfect station,
that well shaped body, beautiful feather pattern. Others say, "I want a balanced pigeon".
Each of these three positions is partly right
and each is partly wrong. More often than not
the fault finder will paint him-self into a
comer by eliminating through fault finding
some of the birds also possessing several of
the most sought after qualities in the breed.
head or the perfect station may overlook a either in the top tier of coops (by moving
ance hunter might end up with a very well super bird has won in all 3 categories of exbalanced bird but mediocre in every detail. I amination and first is easy. Other times, we
have more than once seen champions fitting have to bal-ance off one fault or one strong
this description. What do I do?
point against another. Then examine the 4, 5
Let us use a hypothetical example and and 6 likely candidates to see if they hold up
say we have 15 young Blue Bar Show Racer there. Is one better than #3? If so, swap
cocks in the class. Most shows place half them. In this fashion, work from one through
plus one, so we need 8 placements. I walk eight. Take your time. Do your best. Don't
down the line from left to right ends looking be swayed by crowd noise, anxious glances
first at profile. How does the bird strike me or anything else.
Judges sometime use coins, hav-ing
from tip of beak over and under to tip of tail?
In this I am seeing beak, eye, head depth pennies, nickels and dimes. They will use
and length, neck size and shape and in rela- one to designate head or sta-tion or body.
tionship to overall size of bird: chest, back, Perhaps one for major faults. This is to aid
wings, tail, color, pattern, legs and hocks, the judge only. No explanation is necessary.
station, condition of feather, etc. Then re- Good Luck!!!!
Repri nted fr om t h e M a y / June AS RA bull etin
verse the examination, going right to left
19 9 9
looking at width of head, body, etc., obvious
faults and very strong points. Once back to
the left end (winning bird always ends up in
far left coop) I take the bird from cage 1 in
hand and feel for condition, examine for
missing flight feathers, lice, mites, dirt, body
confirmation, etc. Put that bird back in coop
and take next one, until each bird has been
handled. By now I know where the best 3 or
4 birds are. I may also have discovered some
birds plac-ing well down in each of the three
ex-aminations. I will then eliminate the bottom 4 or 5. The best situation is when coops
Richard’s Blue Bar Best Y.C.
1989 NPA National at Peoria
are double decked and with 2 or 3 holes
extra in a section to right angles of the
judging coops. These eliminated can be
put there. This I like on the right end of the
area. This provides working room. Now
22
shows I have shown. I know that I have won shows not because I had
"THE CONTINUING SAGA”
BY Bill Schlieper
the best bird but that my birds were always in top condition and I know
for a fact that a lot of top birds in the shows loose out on condition.
This is a follow up story of my first article "the good old days" I will
In the past few years I have cut down to six pair of breeders and pick out
start with the early 1990's and the fellows that I met and have had a
the best youngster or two to keep for the next years mating. It is hard
great friendship with up until the present time. I did quite a bit of travel-
with only a few pairs to breed from, but if one is diligent in choosing his
ing to shows out of my state and had a lot of fun. I traveled with my
pairs, it can work. Be very choosey in birds, quality counts.
good buddy Joe Pelletteri to many shows and we have had a lot of fun.
I have made many wonderful friendships along the way and some of
them have been real competitors in the sport, to name a few Cas Child,
Bill Henderson, Jack Anderson, Larry Schulz Ralph and Ron Whitson,
Joe Ognibene, Willie Halpern, Les Heisserman and many others, if I
have overlooked anyone of my good friends, please bear with me.
I have had so many friends in California that I enjoy seeing at the shows
each year, these are friends that I have known for many years.
Now to get on with my story from the early 90"s to the present. I met Bill
Henderson at the 1994 National and we hit it off from the start and later
in the show Bill came up to me and asked if a blue check young hen I
had in the show was available and I told him that if the right trade could
At the Pageant of Pigeons last year I was talking to Ku Yu and he had a
splash cock in the show that I really liked and I asked if he had any
plans for the cock the next year, he said that if I wanted to use him take
him so I did and I have raised three splashes off the cock and one looks
real good. I have always stayed away from white in my birds and when
fellows come over they first make the remark, what’s with the splash. I
guess I am getting sentimental in my older years?
At the present time 2008 I have raised thirty youngsters and am real
high on youngsters off my best blue Bar cock mated to a loan blue bar
hen on a split mating with Ralph Whitson, As of June I have six off the
pair and hope for one more round. I like these youngsters a lot.
be made that he could take her home, well he said that he had a pair of In 2008 I will be entering two shows and judging the other in California. I
black spread nest mates in the show and to look them over and see if I no longer travel out of state to shows.
would be interested in making a trade. I later looked over the two one a I hope this little article was worth your time in reading it, from an old
hen and the other a cock and I liked the hen better than the cock and I PIGEON BUDDY good luck to you all at the shows this year.
told Bill if he wanted to make the trade I was all for it. I mated that hen
to a black check cock one of my best cocks and they raised ten youngsters that year. The hen from Bill was number 94-2358 and my cocks
number was 94-1957, from this pair I kept a black spread hen number
3764 and the next year I paired her with my best blue check cock number 1912 and they produced some fine youngsters one that won Champion in the third, fourth and fifth district meets. That hen number 1904
was winner in most of the shows I showed her. I later made a present
of her to Bill Henderson. I did make some trades with others but not like
that one with Bill.
I have always showed in all the shows that I felt the competition was fun
to show against. I consider myself lucky to have done so well in the
23
“Near the End of the Year” by Richard Brooks
Say November and December to the average pigeon fancier and the immediate response will be "show time" and so it is. We work
with the birds a!! year looking forward to the shows most of which are held from very late October to the Grand National in
January. Yes, indeed, our thoughts are about those shows and our prospects, not to include the fellowship renewals and the
Autumn travel, it's quite a time to anticipate.
However, upon second thought and some reflection, there is another reflection. This period contains some of the most
meaningful holidays of the year. Start with Halloween - there is a celebration of Autumnal slow down and fun for the children and
some not so young. It's pumpkin time and ghost time and prank time. Then a month later and its Thanksgiving time. We Americans
are a very diversified people, with heritage from many lands and beliefs that vary greatly and in many ways. Yet world wide, so the
sociologists tell us, close to ninety percent of the world's population believes in some source of their being other than chance or
without purpose and most of these people have some period of the year in which they express their thankfulness for all that they
have. Though the early Americans were somewhat diversified as to ethnic and national origin, they did hold a common day of
Thanksgiving, each in his own way and according to early American folklore., shared a meal with their new found neighbors, the
American Indians, Thanksgiving Day has been a tradition with us all along the pathway of our National history. With the continuing
arrival of people from many and different shores, that celebration takes on an ever greater variety of activity and meal sharing,
but it is still for us a great and meaningful day.
Almost on the heels of Thanksgiving comes Christmas. Now incorporated into the fiber of our commercial enterprises, it
still remains a very high and respected day for all and a sacred day for most It is the day we reclaim our dedication to love of
family and friends, exchange gifts (what better gift to a pigeon NUT than a good bird from a highly regarded loft), write cards,
letters and make phone calls. Friends, past and present, are thought of and where possible, contacted. Each of us has memories
of Christmases past, of childhood, loving parents, brothers and sisters, the traditions of times now long past. Time is ever
changing but we remember what it was even as we live what it is and anticipate what it may become.
Then there is another great day that comes for the avid pigeon fancier. It comes in January, but our entry forms, time off
permission and transportation plans are done in December. That’s the Grand National. Never is it more a grand experience than
the one yet to come. Especially this year it seems very precious as we are threatened with postal and airline indifference to our
joys and needs.
We hope that all the above brings you joy and wonderful moments this year and for many years to come. Beyond all this
there is the dream of next year and the very best breeding season ever. Now is the time to start planning for that. Have a
wonderful holiday season and a most meaningful new year.
Reprinted from the Nov / Dec 2001 ASRA bulletin
24
American Show Racer Association
Breed of the Issue Special
Purebred Pigeon Magazine
Nov / Dec 2009
Ad rates will be discounted 15% off the 2009 rates.
We need 10 pages of ads and 10 pages of articles.
Ad space is first come first served. All advertising
is to be sent directly to the magazine.
Lets make Doratha proud of us!!!!
Get your ad and articles ready to go
DISTRICT DIRECTORS
•
•
Please remember this year we have new color classes. Please remember to have all your entry forms changed to support the
changes.
Like last year, I will retype any show report if you really need to
hand write the report. YOU need to take pictures of the birds. Every
show report will be on the website. If you send me 30 pictures of
your show - ALL 30 will be on the website. I am also doing pictures
and articles in every Purebred Pigeon Magazine in 2009.
25
The President’s Page
By RICHARD BROOKS, Camarillo, Calif.
Thank you for your vote of confidence, and I hope we have a good two years together. By way of acquainting some
of you with who I am, I keep pigeons for the pure pleasure I get from spending time with them. True, to win in the
show room is a great experience, but that happens no more than two or three days each year. I enjoy them every
day of the year. I'm celebrating my sixtieth birthday this month, and at the same time celebrating fifty four years
with the birds.
By nature I'm an optimist, but must admit some misgivings about what I see on the horizon regarding transportation
(man and birds) and feed costs. It looks as if it is going to take more effort, in the future, to show our birds. We may
have to think more of car pooling, regional shows, and more sharing of local birds. By the
way, this swapping of
birds has brought added joy to us in recent years. Bob Trane and I made a swap or two that really helped, us both.
Now when Bob wins I get the add-ed satisfaction of feeling that it was with some of “my blood".
With but few exceptions the Show Racer breeders I know are men well along in their 50's. Let's encourage and help
the younger fellows. Get some one started. True, not all will stick, but some will. We need them if our breed, is to
be main-tained in the future at the standard of excellence it now enjoys.
One of the better known facts of life is that we don't all agree on a standard for our breed. I daresay we will never de
-velop a unanimously accepted standard. Most of us will continue to breed toward what we like. After all, we're the
fellows who feed them; so what we feed is our privilege to determine. Meanwhile, by mail, phone, and at the shows,
let us continue to discuss what we like.
I don't want to close without saying a very big “THANK YOU” to Cass for the many great bulletins he has brought us,
and for the hours of pleasure they have provided and continue to provide us. His will indeed be very large shoes to
fill. However, that we must try to do. If you have expertise in the printing field, and are willing to make such a contribution to our club, please let me know. Meantime, I hope to see many of you at San Jose in January, and to hear
from all of you throughout the year. May you enjoy your birds in 1981 and beyond, --RB
Richard’s first President’s message
26
“Another Possibility for Infertility”
By: Richard Brooks
In recent years the number one negative discussion among Show Racer fanciers has been infertility. About
the only consensus arrived at to date is frustration. Here is another, hopefully a bit more likely to produce positive
results. In early discussions of evolutionary possibilities both Mendel and Darwin and later duChardin pointed out the
tendency of primitive life forms to mutate. All agreed, however, that original forms survived and often came along with
the mutants. A good example is the sweet pea flower. If you replant those beautiful colored seeds the second year
most of the flowers will be smaller and white, much like the wild type that grows in Northern California. Where these
genes express themselves on the outward appearance, we can cull accordingly and do.
Almost all of us keep less than one third of the young we raise each year, as they just don't look right. It is not as
easy to see the inside. Here are a few true stories to illustrate.
Norm McClister once bred two nest mate Blue Check brothers. One was considerably better than the other in
appearance and won far more than his fair share at the shows. We stocked both cocks. The show bird bred nothing
worth keeping. The ugly brother became foundation.
Long ago another breeder showed a beautiful young cock at a National. That bird was so beautiful he decided to
line breed his small but excellent family to that cock. Alas, the bird carried a wild gene and within three or four years
all his descendants had to go. They were so wild it wasn't safe to go into the loft without protective gear.
At one of our very early Nationals the Champion and Reserve (and Best Opposite Sex) were full brother and sister
and looked very much alike. So far as I ever heard and I was a close friend of the owner, neither ever bred a
youngster.
Twice that I know of the Holstein-Friesian dairy cattle association eliminated two of their top bulls plus all their
sons and further male descendants and destroyed all semen when line bred young down from these animals produced
genetic deformities. The same thing happened in the Jersey cattle breed. Not only were the bulls removed from
future breeding, but their names and numbers are published annually in that breed's magazine, to remind future
breeders to beware. I know similar stories about certain dog breeds and horse breeds.
This past July our minister died suddenly of a massive stroke. His family told me he was the last of five siblings and
all, including their parents, had died by age sixty three, some in their forties. The same happened in a family who lived
next door to us in my childhood and youth, except the first (a very superb athlete) died at 39 and none reached beyond
the early fifties.
The point is, we have, in my opinion, a reproductive genetic problem in our breed. No one is at fault. No one knows
where it came from. The solution to THE PROBLEM IS TO ELIMINATE THE GENE CAUSING THE PROBLEM. We
can't see it, so we have to be guided by results. A prominent breeder told me last year that he killed four of his best
hens (a mother, two daughters and a granddaughter) because he only obtained five eggs from the group in a year's
efforts. Another breeder told me he bred fifteen pair and raised five young all year. Some say they don't lay. If
they do, they aren't fertile. If they are they don't hatch. If they hatch, they die before weaning. If they wean, they
die before maturity. If they mature, they don't lay, etc., etc., etc. Its a painful experience to have to kill most or all of
your best looking birds. It may be necessary.
I have had minor success by out crossing the few that are fertile at all. Selecting the best of these crosses, I go
another generation away from the problem and then recross back to other such descendants of the problem birds,
trying ever to retain those exhibiting the feature I am trying to enhance. Slowly it seems to be working, so long as I'm
willing to eliminate the weak, sick and non productive, no matter what they look like. No one ever said it would be easy.
Good luck in your efforts.
27
8th DISTRICT REPORT
Titus Hostetter
8th District Report
By the time you receive this newsletter most of your birds will be well thru the molt. I have heard from a few of the members and some have raised 20 while others I heard raised close to 100. With 100 birds plus the parents I am sure the
feathers are everywhere. I'm sure there will be some real quality birds at the shows this fall, not to mention the national
being in Lancaster in January. I have banded 21, killed a couple because of colds and culled a few and the ones I have
left there are a few that look pretty good. I also heard that there are a lot of pieds and splashes that were raised this year.
I hope you all take time to coop train your birds because with the amount of competition that I believe we will have at the
shows it will make all the difference where you birds will end up hi the class.
I'll be glad to get out to the shows and be able to meet old friends and new members, there are a lot of new members in
district 8 and I sure hope they take the tune to get out and show their birds and maybe they can pick up a few birds that
will help them improve their birds.
Also I was glad to hear that Richard Brooks won the nomination to judge the national, over the years I have seen Richard
judge and he always does a good job. I have to tell you about making sure your birds are coop trained. I raised a red
check cock in 1989 that Jack Fix thought was a beautiful bird but he was a little weak on the beak and didn't flow into the
wattle like it should have so he didn't put him up for champion, this was in Rhode Island in 1989. There was another
problem with this bird, he was always a little nervous and liked to pace back and forth in the judging coop and as he got
older he got worse, it didn't seem like anything I did would help. His band number was 501 and he was best red check in
Rhode Island in 1989 and 1990.I do not have the records but I believe that Richard judged in Rhode Island in 1991 and
by that time the bird was worse and I knew I had to do something so I gave the bird a pill that was supposed to make him
calm awhile before it was time to judge the red checks and would you believe it I think it made him worse. When the red
checks went up to be judged he was pacing the judging cage and Richard took the bird and put him in the last cage and
when he was done judging the red check old cocks he went thru the birds why he placed them the way he did and than
he said, and in the last cage is Wild Bill. I was that ticked off that I sold the bird to Joe Ognibene because he was after
me if I ever wanted to sell the bird he would buy him. A few years later at the Lancaster national I bought the bird back
not because I wanted the wildness but because the bird had one of the best bodies you would ever find on a bird, it was
short and wide. Joe said to me you should never sell a bird like that. But that's what happens when you get a temper. Till
I get to see you I hope everything is well with you and your family.
28
ASRA News and Views
by Anthony J. Brunner
Eureka, CA
This gentleman has been breeding pigeons for
over 70 years, and got started with the American
Show Racer by accident. He wanted a certain cock
bird of another breed, and he had to take two pairs
of show racers to get the bird that he wanted. The
individual from whom this gentleman acquired his
first show racer was none other than Mr. Bob
Twonbly. He has been showing pigeons for over
60 years, but has only been an active American
Show Racer breeder for 43 years.
The gentleman of whom I speak is none other
than Richard Brooks. Today, Richard is the 4th
District Director and an active judge. He earned his
Master Breeder certification in the ASR in 1986.
Richard, at one time, lived in one of the hotbeds of
the American Show Racer. He used to live in the
Los Angeles area with such fanciers as Amos
Hodson, a 12 Time Grand National winner in
show racers, Joe Frazier, Jack Hamilton, Bob
Trane, as well as many, many other top breeders
of the American Show Racers. Richard later
moved east, to Arkansas, and has made his mark
as a generous individual. He has helped several
people in the central United States acquire some
good show racer stock. He is always willing to
share his knowledge with any show racer member who is willing to ask for help.
Richard attributes his success with the
American Show Racers to lots of hard work and
most of all patience. Richard really stresses that
patience and perse-verance are the only way to
success. There are no shortcuts, no quick fixes.
Even if a person is rich, there is no guarantee of
being successful with the ASR. You must have
some knowledge of genetics and, "What is desired
in the American Show Racer." This comes by
attending the show racer shows within an individual's area. A person must be willing to leave his
general area travel to several Grand Nationals to
watch and see the best birds in the United States
compete. He must talk to several top breeders for
help and advice, watch the judging, listen and
learn. Do not expect others to make you successful. You must do that yourself. The best education
comes through the school of hard knocks.
Richard has had several memorable wins in
the ASR. His most memorable was his National
Championship in 1986, at Downingtown, with a
black grizzle hen. Just re-cently, Richard has
gotten Reserve Champion at three Grand
Nationals. These birds also won Best Opposite
sex at these very same Nationals. Richard won
twice Best Opposite sex and Reserve
Champions with the same bird, an Opal Check old
hen at the Portland and the Oklahoma Grand
Nationals. At the Salt Lake City National Mr.
Brooks won Reserve Champion, Best Opposite
Sex and Best Young Bird with a Grizzle Young
Richard has helped
develop several Cock.
individuals as top ASR breeders. He has helped
Bill Schlieper towards his great success, as well
Reprinted from “The Racing Pigeon Digest”
as many, many others already mentioned. Richard
believes that if you let good show racers go to
Sept. 1, 1998
other individuals this promotes good competition
and more interest in the breed. He also believes
that this is the best method of promoting the
American Show Racer, and increasing the interest
and participation with the birds.
This development has another purpose. It
keeps several good shows going and helps
Richard keep some good, close friendships with
other ASR members. Richard has developed a
great deal of friends throughout the United States
and the world. He has helped people with the ASR
in South Africa, in Europe, and in Australia.
29
From a Master's Quill
"The Egg"
By: Jim Bruning
After reading Richard Brooks' article on
"Breeding True Recessives", I thought I
had bet-ter get my pen in gear and
make an effort to provide something for
the ASR Bulletin as per Becky Cooper's
request.
Every once in awhile, I would re-mind
myself that I had to sit down and get
busy on a topic for an article. I knew that
there would be works on judging, loft
management, rare colors and conditioning, yet I wanted some-thing just a bit
different. But what?
One morning a few days ago as I sat
down to breakfast, I realized the subject
I should write about was staring me in
the face the egg!!!
Did you ever look at an egg? I mean
really look at it? What a marvel of design! What a feat of engineering! - Have
you ever wondered about 1,16 fact that
this incredible and yes edible egg when
fertilized and incu-bated for two and a
half weeks would release its living,
breathing occupant into the world of
your loft?
If you have bred pigeons for a while, you
are probably well aware of what follows.
However, if you are new to the hobby,
then this is for you in the sincere hope
that it-will shorten the learning process
and prevent some of the set backs we
have all experienced in raising pigeons
and specifically the American Show
Racer.
At the onset of the breeding season, the
arrival of that first egg is greeted with a
smile of satisfaction and just a bit of
anxiety until the second egg makes its
appearance two days later.
Most hens will lay in the afternoon generally between two and four thirty, but
don't take this as gospel, because eggs
can be laid as late as six or seven in the
evening.
My hens are separated from their mates
at the end of the breeding season and
kept apart until two weeks before mating. At this time, they are allowed to see
each other, but are not allowed any contact. This creates the necessary stimulation to the hen's re-productive system.
Those two weeks will, also give you the
added assurance that the hen's system, is clear of any possible accidental
contamination by a cock not intended for
that particular hen.
After your pairs are mated and you notice the hen spending more time just
sitting and arranging her nest, remember that the eggs must be fertilized at
least twenty four hours before being
laid. It is important that you afford privacy for this act. Individual breeding
compartments are desirable or you may
wish to lock your other birds in their nest
boxes so that copulation is not interrupted by a jealous cock and the breeding birds have the floor of the loft or the
fly pen to themselves. .
Many fanciers experience infertility in
the first and second rounds because
their breeding pairs are constantly interrupted in the fertilization process or
the cocks and hens have been put together too quickly for the proper period
of stimulation to the hen's reproductive
system to take place.
You will hear various explanations.
The weather was too hot,
the
weather was too cold, too much rain not
enough rain, etc. Then the search for
remedies beings. This al-ways makes
the medicine men happy as they have
all kinds of quick solu-tions to the problem of infertility. Pills, powders and tonics. Often the only change that takes
place is the weight of your pocket book.
Next come the vent trimmers and the tail
cutters. Unfortunately, none of this may
be necessary.
Mother Nature has endowed all pigeons
with a unique set of muscles which provide that the features of the vent area
don't interfere with the act of copulation.
The only concern with the vent area is
that of examining for dried fecal matter
that may have adhered to the feathers
around the sphincter and thereby would
prevent .successful fer-tilization.
lf your birds are not too old and are in
good health, with a proper diet,
fertilization should not be a problem. If it
is, a thorough examination of your
breeding program is called for.
Now, let's get, back to our friend the
egg. Three or four days after the second
egg is laid, you check them for fertility.
One way you can do this is to hold the
egg on
its ends between the thumb and
forefinger, up to the sunlight or you may
prefer to candle the egg against a light
bulb or a flashlight. A note of caution.
here If you use .the flashlight be careful
that your hen is not easily spooked as
she may leave the nest and not return if
it is dark. Either way, you will know the
egg is fertile when you see a red spot
with lines radiating away from it.
If the eggs are clear or sterile, leave
them under the hen for a total of 10
days and then throw them out. Always
check and candle the eggs again just to
make sure they are not good.
These ten days give the hen's system a
30
chance to recover from the laying process and she will soon be ready to try
again.
During incubation, give your breeders
their privacy. When the eggs have
been incubated for seventeen days
after the second egg was laid, you can
examine them for pipping. The pipped
egg will, under normal conditions,
hatch in twenty four hours more or
less. Always replace the pipped egg in
the nest with the pipped side up. The
second egg will usually hatch a bit later
than the first, at times as much as a
day or so. More on this later.
Sometimes in the act of hatching,
Mother Nature needs a helping hand
and this is where you come in. If an
egg, after starting to pip, has not
hatched in twenty four hours, examine
it to determine the problem. Frequently
in the pipping process the baby will
succeed in creating a hole through the
shell and the interior mem-brane. You
may even be able to see its beak
moving but not making contact with the
eggshell.
Quite often this allows the membrane
to rapidly dry and it becomes hard preventing the baby from continuing the
hatching process.
If this happens, carefully pick away the
shell and dried membrane around the
top half of the egg being careful not to
touch the baby. If the picked area
starts to bleed, stop and replace the
egg under the hen and wait a while as
the blood vessels in the membrane
have not dried up yet. If the membrane
does not bleed, con-tinue to pick away
until you see the baby's wing over its
head. Very care-fully free the baby's
head from under the wing and immediately replace the egg under the hen.
The baby will use the remaining yolk in
the egg, its navel will close and it
should, after a period of rest, be able
to successfully exit the egg. Let it
come out on its own, otherwise you
may kill it. Earlier, we spoke of the second egg hatching later than the first.
Sometimes this happens to the
detriment of the younger baby. It's a
question of "first come, first served".
The first to hatch gets fed first and if it
has a head start of a day or two, then
the second youngster will be "a day
late and a dollar short", so to speak. If
this should take place, you may
remove the larger baby for brief periods of time and permit the smaller of
the two to catch up in size. This may
hen. This prevents the yolk from sticking to the membrane and incubation
can begin as nature intended.
Enjoy your birds and may all your eggs
be fertile.
Reprinted from the ASRA bulletin - Nov / Dec
1999
take a few days, but it will work. Place
the removed baby in a tissue box or
something similar and line the box with
cotton or Kleenex tissue. Be sure to
keep the baby warm and replace it
under the hen each time after you see
the smaller one fed. Don't worry, the
larger one will get its share.
In order to insure that this doesn't
happen, remove the first egg after it is
laid. I like to put a dummy egg in the
nest so the hen doesn't get upset and
believe me they do. The removed egg
will keep at room temperature until the
second egg arrives. You can then
place the first egg back under the hen.
Don't forget to remove the dummy egg
at this time. Three's a crowd! While
you await that second egg, be sure to
give the first egg a half turn a couple of
times a day until it is returned to the
31
Publicity Director
Richard Brooks
"Weaning pens and coop Training"
Soon now, if you already haven’t done so, you will be wean-ing your first round of babies. How will you go about
this? Most of our top winners have a routine that is much like what I am describing herein.
At about three weeks of age, be sure the young have food in the nest box. Pigeons tend to learn to drink before they
learn to eat, so have water there also. Quart motor oil cans hang-ing inside the nest box or outside, if front is doweled,
work fine. Cut a 21/4 inch hole about two inches from bot-tom of the plastic oil can. Curtain hooks work well as fasteners.
Near the breeding section estab-lish a weaning pen of some twelve to fifteen square feet of wire floor space. One
inch by one half inch welded wire works well. As a round of babies reaches about 28 days of age, transfer them into
this weaning pen. Have doors enough in this so you can reach each baby, no matter where it stands. Quite near to the
weaning pen have a show coop at least 16 inches square and preferably 18 inches. Some of our better showmen start
handling the babies by three weeks of age, placing each alone in the show coop for a few minutes daily. The birds are
caught very gently with upturned fingers un-der the chest and keel, and thumb over the wing butt and back.
During each baby's stay in the show coop, use the judging stick gen-tly to massage or press the tail from above or
below, the hocks from front or back, and/or hold the stick just in front of it's beak to get the bird's atten-tion. Experience
indicates that 2 or 3 weeks of this treatment at this age goes a long way toward establishing gentleness and station in
the bird's personality - something very difficult to do after the bird is 2 or 3 months old or older.
I can remember visiting Amos Hodson now and then when we lived only a very few miles apart. When we visited, as
he showed me his birds or we talked, he would be taking babies, still in the nest, and placing them in the show coop, gently
handling them or using the stick. I never knew anyone to have better coop trained birds than he did.
Another advantage to having ba-bies together in the weaning coop is that the slower ones see the others eating and
drinking and pick up the habits quickly. You need to be watch-ing in case one does not. Babies can "go down" quickly
without water and feed. If you see one appearing "sleepy", he almost certainly needs water.
There are many different ideas on dishes for feeding and watering wean-lings. I personally like fairly heavy crock
type dishes with lips no more than two inches high and curved slightly in so less is wasted. I like these no more than
five inches in di-ameter as larger dishes encourage birds getting into them. As soon as all are eating and drinking, conventional waterers and feeders should be used. Meanwhile, while they are learning, such feed and water bowls should be
changed several times daily and thor-oughly cleaned. Under these condi-tions a pen with 15 square feet of floor space can
handle up to thirty babies.
Do not mix babies of wide ranging in age. For babies a week younger have another pen. As they get older, they can
be mingled more.
As in the case of all pigeon living quarters, sunshine and fresh air are essential for good health. If you live in a cold or
changing climate, I'd suggest a "Titan Milk House Heater" set so the temperatures stay above fifty degrees. Chilled babies
are most often un-healthy babies. If your work and/or social schedule are such that you can't be there during the day, do
the individ-ual coop handling after work and if re-quired, under lights. When is not that important. How and that are all impor
-tant.
Next time you attend a show, study the birds in the first three coops after judging. I promise you they have been
through this routine. I hope this helps. Richard Brooks. Reprinted from the ASRA bulletin May / June 2001
32
"Baby"
By: Vance Morrison
This year I had a young
pair setting on their second
set of eggs. They abandoned
the nest 3 days before the
hatching date, I was alarmed
because I didn't have another pair setting at the
same point in the cycle where
1 could simply transfer the
eggs. I caught the hen and
put her back on the cold eggs
and she did stay for a hour or
so before joining the cock in
the fly pen. To my dismay the
eggs were uncovered over
night and again all day the
next day. I resigned myself
to the fact that the eggs
were probably dead but I left
them in the nest in the hopes
the parents would return.
The next day I decided to
throw the abandoned eggs
away and surprise! One egg
had pipped and that cold baby
was trying to get out! I excitedly took the egg into my
house and put it on a soft
cloth and place it upon a
heating pad turned on low
heat. The tiny bird struggled
and finally hatched! During
the hatching process I called
a couple of pigeon breeders
to see if I could find foster
parents, but I had no luck. I
know it is critical for newly
hatched babies to receive
"pigeon milk" from the parent
birds and without that the
prospects for survival are
slim. My wife took off to the
pet store to check on hand
feeding options. She returned soon with one can of
Kaytee Exact original hand
feeding formula ($9.00). This
turned out to be a great
choice.
After the correct mixture
was prepared, a drop or two
was placed in the tiny pigeon's mouth and it swallowed/ drank it! This pink
skinned, yellow fluff ball
wanted more and my wife con
tinue to feed him formula
from a very small syringe. For
4 days, my wife, Greta and
youngest son, Andrew, fed
that micro pigeon 1 1/2 cc
every hour beginning at 6 AM
to 10 PM, with one additional
feeding at 2 AM. This was
during spring break - luckily
everyone was off, the baby
grew quickly and stayed in a
nest bowl placed on top of
the heating pad and covered
with a wash cloth to keep him
out of drafts. After the
fifth day, the hourly feeding
schedule was changed to 7
AM/12/4/7/10 PM until he
was finally weaned at 36
days. Grain and grit was
added to his diet shortly before banding and gradually
increased until he was
weaned.
The weaning process and
learning to eat on his own
proved challenging to "baby".
We placed water and a small
crock full of grain and grit in
his cage and Andrew actually
made a green hand puppet
"pigeon head" to teach the
baby to peck grain. "Baby"
would mimic the puppet and
we all laughed at that. Baby
learned to drink right away
but resisted eating on hisown. Even after he was in a
weaning pen with another
youngster, Greta would go
hand feed him once or twice a
day because she was afraid
he wouldn't eat enough.
Baby is completely grown
now and in a pen with 9 other
pigeons. At 3 months old,
"Baby" is extremely tame and
"squeaks" at Greta and An
drew to pick him up and feed
him. As I see it now, it is
possible to raise a baby pigeon from the egg to full
grown by providing it a warm
dry place, special food, grit
and clean water, i know now
that the process takes effort, dedication and patience.
The reward is a strong,
healthy and extremely tame
pigeon that has become part
of our family. Was it worth
it? You bet! The one drawback is that Greta and Andrew told me that I'd better
not ever cull Baby.
One other tidbit to pass
along. I had always assumed
pigeons stayed very still and
quiet at night. Not this bird!
Baby flapped and exercised
his wings and took potty
breaks
throughout
the
night! We were glad when he
graduated from a box in our
house to the pigeon loft! I’m
sure there are many ways
and methods to hand feed or
foster
fed
exclusively.
Breeders who raise some
very short beaked varieties
are hand feeding experts and
I for one would like to learn
their techniques. God luck
with your birds in 2002.
Reprinted from the ASRA
July / August 2002 bulletin
33
“LOCATION"
By: Richard Brooks
We who breed pigeons for showing
seldom mention location. On the other
hand, our friends who race the birds
give it great consideration. Some have
paid unbelievable prices for homes in the
heart of "the bowling alley" in some of
the larger combines. This "bowling
alley" area is where the pigeons coming
home from a race are still together and
just before they angle for home once
some barrier (such as a mountain or body
of water) has been passed. In such a
location, as many as 50 or more lofts
may be located within a square mile or 2
or 3.
With reference to showing birds, I
speak of a different kind of location.
Regardless of which breed we have,
most of us have heard, "the further West
you live, the earlier you can breed, break
up and condition birds for the early
shows". This is especially said of the mild
and even climate of the Pacific Coast, of
Arizona and the Salt Lake Valley. The
further East we go, the later our season
and the less winning we do, especially in
the September and October shows. Yet,
here and there, we find a fancier or 2,
regardless of breed, who get their birds
in top form early. How is this done?
Meticulous attention to detail is undoubtedly a large factor. Yet there are
other factors that I believe enter in and
more often than not are not a conscious
part of the fanciers planning. One of the
most important of these is location. By
this I mean the location and ventilation of
your loft in relation to your home and the
lot it stands upon. This is based on my
own experience and observations here
at home and observation as I have visited many lofts across the whole country
and a few in foreign countries.
My home is located on the peak of a
hill. To see anything but sky or
tall tree tops. I must look down. Like most
prospective home builders, we selected
the site for our home as the best one on
the property so far as view, presentation
from the street, utilities and in our case,
the best possible use of solar heat.
Thus, our house faces true North and
true South, set by a compass. This guar
-antees the best possible use of winter
sunlight. It also means we had to then
decide where to build the loft, being careful not to block our best view nor to locate the loft where it would be a detraction to the house as it appeared from the
street. The location used was about 100
ft. mostly West and a bit North of the
home. As this area was dense,
young woods, we removed all trees and
un-dergrowth so that the loft is in a
sunny clearing. For what we felt was
maximum ascetic appeal and func-tion,
we situated the loft with one corner to
the Southeast and its diagonal opposite
to the Northwest. We assumed our
strongest and coldest winds would come
from the Northwest. This assumption
was wrong. Our wet, cold winds come
from the Southwest. I mention this just
to point out that the winds in any area
are influenced by hills, canyons, river
valleys and ridges.
It is important to determine this for
your location. Birds can't take direct
cold wind. We had to rearrange our loft
to accommodate this. Our loft is as a
small barn, 2 stories high with sheds on
each side. Thus the areas that get the
earliest and most winter sun are the
Southeast ex-posure. That Southeast
breeding compartment of 10 next boxes
and with an East window and a South
screen fly has been by far our most productive unit. Fertility is better there
every round, every year. The other 10
nest breeding unit is the Southwest corner which gets quite a bit of afternoon
winter sun and whatever heat it generates. Fertility there from January through
March is about 1/3 that of the first mentioned pen. I have used the Northeast
pen mostly for late hatches. Even as I
write this Christmas week, those youngsters have mated up and some are on
fertile eggs and babies. Upstairs in the
smaller East gable pen, I am weaning
babies and waiting for eggs to hatch this
week. On the West end upstairs there
hasn't been a fertile egg in 3 months.
I realize home, family and neigh-borhood
has to come first. I'm just saying that
means you probably won't be first at
the show. I heat my loft in each breeding section. From 14 years of experience, I have discovered that heat keeps
eggs and small young from freezing when
tempera-tures drop from the 60's to 5
above in 4 days. This does not mean lots
of heat, but enough to keep temperatures at or above freezing. Insulation and
ventilation are very important here.
There has to be a good supply of fresh
34
air coming in at all times and that cold, fanciers have birds in home attics with
wet wind out. I do this by wrapping all my East facing dormers and heated by the
screen flypens in plastic by Thanksgiving central hearing chimneys which come
Day except the wire bottom of the screen up through the center of the home and
fly is never covered, thus allowing plenty are cov-ered with brick or stone which
of fresh air to rise and Lofts built under main-tains constant warmth. Of course, it
trees, in the shadow of other buildings, goes without saying that if you plan to
facing north or west simply are not con- try this, take your wife out to a wonderductive to fertility during the early part of ful event and dinner, buy her a nice prethe season. Will heat help? enter the sent and be on your best behavior for 6
loft, pushing the stale air out through months. American's frown on such comventilators located over the nest boxes mon sense practices as the Europeans
and at the high gables. There is an alu- practice. Double side walls and insuminum type rolled reflective insula- lated ceilings are great in a Midwester
tion called "Reflectix" which is great for pigeon loft. However, given a
reflecting sunlight, animal heat or heater choice of these or windows and mornunit heat back upon the birds. It can be ing sunlight, I'd take the sunlight and
used to line the nest box or the ceiling windows every time. I realize common
and walls of the unit. My problem with it sense has to be used but changing loft
is that it has to be mounted on frames light and ventilation or even relocating
that are removable as it gets much too loft may bear fine fruit. When you get
hot in the summer heat. Thinking back to the chance, go visit the loft of your
some ingenious methods I have seen friend who is beating you at those Septhrough the years, one that comes to tember and October show. Go in Demind is a small basement unit for 4 or cember through March. Listen some to
5 pair built within the coal bin of the his advice, but look a lot. Good loft lofurnace room of a home basement. It cation and setup is a vital part of winso happened there was a window that let ning, perhaps even more so than all
in early morning winter sunlight. That those expensive breeders and feed. I
fancier depended on that dirty little hope this helps. Richard Brooks
area to get his early show birds started.
In Belgium and Holland, many racing
35
The Lofts of
Mr. Bob Larcher
Illinois, USA
Bob moved to his current residence 3 years ago. The lofts were built prior
to moving in, when Bob moved, his birds moved with him. Bob is just getting back into
the ASR after battling cancer. Not knowing what was ahead for Bob, he had to get rid
of them during this time. Bob will be 70 in December and has had some type of pigeon
since he was nine.
Breeding / Old bird loft
Bob states: My breeding / old bird loft is 12’ x20’, 3 sections inside; 6’x10’ and two
6’x8’. There are 16 breeding boxes in the large section. 6 individual breeding boxes in
the middle and the last section has 20 nest boxes for 10 pair of white racing homers
used as foster parents. Each compartment has 2 vents 2’x2’, one inch off the floor. A
3’x4’ window and a ridge vent the full length of the loft also included are 2 eve vents for
the hot air to escape and wire ceilings to promote circulation. The loft is 3 feet off the
ground anchored on 4x4 posts and faces the south for maximum sunlight. Each section has a 6’W x 8’L x 7’H fly pen made with 1” x 1” galvanized after weaving wire.
Con’t next page
36
The fly pen floors are also of the 1”x1” wire strengthened with 2”x4”’sso droppings go
to the ground. Each section has it’s own door for giving baths and cleaning perches.
Perches run the full length of the pen. Clear plastic on top protects the loft and birds
from the weather. and insures the birds get the full sunlight . Plastic lattice hides the
construction underneath and gives it a finished look.
Young Bird Loft
The picture above is the young bird loft. The overall size is 10’x18’, divided in 2 sections, each 8’x8’. Each section has 30 box perches, 12”x12” each. Facing south with
each section having a closable 2’x2’ opening. There are also 3’x5’ jalousie windows on
the north face including the entry door. There are top and bottom vents in each section. The loft is 2 feet off the ground and on cinder blocks. Both sections have
6’Wx8L’x7’H. These fly pens also have the clear plastic top and 1”x1” galvanized after
weaving wire. Each section has it’s own door for giving baths and cleaning perches.
Perches run the full length of the pen. Clear plastic on top protects the loft and birds
from the weather. Plastic lattice hides the construction underneath and gives it a finished look. Both lofts have electric for lights and water heaters
Editors note: Bob also states
that he hopes to be competitive again with a little luck
and a lot of hard work. Bob
takes pride in his birds and
lofts. I never met Bob but
know of his conditioning
skills when Bob had
“nonflowns” back in the 80’s.
I would read all about him in
the “The Show Racing Homer
Review”. Bob will be back in
the winner’s circle real soon.
37
2009 ASRA Band Order Form
SUPPORT THE CLUB
BUY A PATCH FOR $8.50
MAIL YOUR CHECK TO
MIKE CONWAY
TODAY!
BUY ASRA BANDS
38
The American Show Racer
Association
(Sept / Oct 2008)
The ASRA Bulletin is published in Bayport, N.Y., USA on a bi-monthly basis. Deadline for all submissions
for each issue is the first of the preceding month of said issue. Issues are: Jan/Feb, Mar/Apr., May/June,
July/Aug., Sept/Oct., and Nov/Dec. All literary works submitted for publication in the ASRA Bulletin may
not necessarily reflect the opinions of the ASRA Elected Officers-either past or present, nor the existing
ASRA membership. The ASRA is recognized as a non-profit organization under state and federal regulations. This publication carries and retains all copyright privileges.
2007 -2008 ASRA Officers & Directors
PRESIDENT
SECRETARY/TREASURER
ELECTIONS
Kent Wright
3268 W. Lady Dove Lane
South Jordan, Utah 84095
801-938-2808 • kswasra@comcast.net
Mike Conway
1315 Old Post Rd
Marston Mills, MA 02648
conway5211@aol.com
D.J. Morris
421 Sievers
Newell, IA 50568
712-272-3523
EASTERN VICE PRESIDENT
Joe Ognibene
160-15 80th Street
Howard Beach, NY 11414
jogni12345@aol.com
WESTERN VICE PRESIDENT
Carl Rodegerdts
3 Sequoia Place
Woodland, CA 956954435
rdaisyjune@charter.net
District 1
Jim Armstrong
armstjb@auburn.edu
District 2
Larry Schulz
BULLETIN EDITOR
Brian Magee
290 Oakwood Ave
Bayport, NY 11705
bmagee13@yahoo.com
BAND DIRECTOR
Robert Tibbs
3720 Newport Ct. -Bloomington, Indiana 47401
812-824-5477 • tibbsrm@ldsces.org
PUBLICITY DIRECTOR
Doratha Connally
PO Box 2089
Goodlettsville,Tn 37070
deconnally@earthlinks.net
District 4
Larry Bell
pelicanlofts@earthlink.net
District 5
Geoff Tiegen
Gteigen76@gmail.com
HISTORIAN
Richard Brooks 28 Mars Lane
Holiday Island, AR 726314405 -(479)253--8t29-
District 7
Frank Stracuzzi
fstracuzzi@ody.ca
District 8
Titus Hostetter
circlehfarm@paonline.com
Schull01@hotmail.com
District 3
District 6
VACANT
Cletus Thompson
cthom1252@wildblue.net
WELCOME NEW MEMBERS
District 2
Chris Evans
District 5
Dean Castillo
District 8
Walter Momaney
39
Richard and Ruth enjoy a
Show Racer Meet
40

Sept-Oct bulletin2008 website.pub

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