Climbing guide to Badami

Transcription

Climbing guide to
Badami
Bangalore
Ramanagaram &
Savendurga
Copyright by Gerhard Schaar
www.gerhardschaar.com
Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga
Introduction
I spent three months in India in the winter 2005/2006, where
I got to know this beautiful country and its fascinating people
and culture.
It was not always easy for me, especially at the beginning.
But after I figured out that it was me who had to change, that
I have to start accepting things as they are, India got more
and more interessting.
The climbing is yet not that much developed, although the Indian climbers are very
motivated, skilled and very friendly. So the potential is huge, and hopefully my little
climbing guide helps to attract more climbers and finally to develop the place a bit
more.
There are some climbers who think there should no guides be published, to keep the
areas as they are. I can not share this point of view, because I think that prpoer
information is very much appreciated by people who come to a place the first time.
Further I think that climbing is more fun when there are more people around, and if
experiences can be shared and new things be done together.
I also believe that if there are issues that one should be concerned of, they should be
mentioned, discussed and not kept secret.
Climbing in Badami and Bangalore is still a bit of an adventure, great lines, amazing
rocks, strange people, monkeys, snakes and also bears can be found here.
Enjoy the journey if you decide to embark on it and maybe you send my information
about you new routes with a drawing, or you write me if you found uncorrect details in
my guide. Thank you in advance!
Gerhard Schaar
th
Aukland / NZL, 28 of May 2006
© Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com
page 2
Badami
Badami is a city of about 5000 people, located
netween wonderful sandstone rocks and next to
the Bothanathaa Lake.
It is famous for its four stone cave temples, which
are really worth seing.
Climbingwise some famous climbers like the
German Kurt Albert, the Italien Helmut Gargitter or
the French Arnaud Petit have left their traces here.
Best time:
From November to February
Transport:
Badami can be reached by railway (Hubli-Sholapur rail route) and by road from Hubli
(128 kms), Bijapur (132 kms) or Hospet (250 km).
From Hampi go to Hospet, and from there go with the bus that leaves at 13.30
o´clock from the main bus station (80.- Rs.). The ride will take you about 5 hours.
You can go back with the bus to Hospet from Badami at 6.00 or 7.00 o´clock.
Accomodation:
There are some Hotels in town, right next to the bus station. Rooms are available
from 150.- RS. On.
I stayed in the “Mocambiqua Hotel” and paid 160.- Rs. For a double room.
Gear:
•
•
•
•
60m rope
some slings 60 cm and 120 cm
old 10m rope piece to put up top ropes
full rack wit two sets of cams (#0 to #4) and2 sets of nuts
General safety advise:
Never leave your bags alone, it is either the monkeys or strange local people
who are after your food and valuables. Women must not walk alone to the
rocks at any time of the day.
page 3
Location:
Badami and Bangalore are located in the district of Karnataka. So is Hampi! You see,
going there will really pay off!
Karnataka
Badami
Hampi
Bangalore
page 4
Badami
Gerhard with local boy and a new rope!
page 5
Ganesh Area
Acces detailed:
page 6
Ganesh Area routes:
1. Sunshine Wall
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Battle of the worm
?
Fire or retire
French desaster
Babu Killer
Scoolpen
Eag Number
Freda
Sunnele
Millenium Crack
Indian Sun
Andrea
Sene
Cornflakes
Hias Cliff
5+
7c+
7a+
6c+
6b+
6a
6a
5b+
6a+
7a
6c+
6b
6c+
6b
6c+
20m
20 m
25 m
22m
20m
20m
20m
18m
15m
18m
18m
18m
25m
22m
18m
no bolts
6 bolts
5 bolts
4 bolts
3 bolts
no bolts
no bolts
no bolts
1 bolt
no bolts
1 bolt
1 bolt
4 bolts
2 bolts
3 bolts
friends # 0,5 – 4
friends #1
friend #2
Pranesha C. on Millenium Crack 7a
page 7
2. Top Rope Wall
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
unnamed
unnamed
unnamed
unnamed
unnamed
unnamed
unnamed
unnamed
project
6c
7a
6b+
6a
5c
6a+
6b
13m
13m
13m
13m
13m
13m
13m
13m
Petra Musenbichler – Top Rope route nr.6
page 8
1st Tower – 2nd Tower – Japanese Monkey Routes – Paddy Field
1st Tower
2nd Tower
Paddy Field
Japanese Monkey Routes
1st Tower:
1
2
3
4
6b?
6a?
6b+?
?
2nd Tower
1 7c?
Japanese Monkey Routes
1 7b?
2 6c?
Badami – new potential
everywhere!
Paddy Field
1 Ciapati 2 pitches
2 Fio and Sachin
3 Hot Sun
6a
6a
6a
40 m
30m
25m
6 bolts friends
2 bolts friends
3 bolts friends
page 9
www.beal-planet.com
page 10
Ganesh area bouldering
1. Boulder:
1. 6b
2. 6a+
3. 6b+
4. sit down ???
4. s.s. 6b
2. Boulder:
1. 6a
2. 6b
3. 6b+
3. Boulder – a:
1. 6c
2. 7a
3. 5c
4. 5b
3. Boulder – b:
1. 6b
2. Highball 6b+
4. Boulder:
1. 7b
2. 7b+/c
3. 6b
4. 6a
Further there are many lines spread all over the Ganesh area. Feel free to
try everything that looks good.
But be aware of the danger of Snakes!!!
page 11
Hermit Wall
Access:
page 12
Hermit Wall:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
Puss Max
Old Rope
Koufi Annan
Hungry Climber
Por my lost friend
Namasté
Indian Spirit
Por my Claudia
Indian Dream
Hindu Climber
Joudl
Sene
Cornflakes
Hias Cliff
7b+
6a
6b
7b+
7b
7a
6b+
6c+
7a+
7a+
6b+
6c+
6b
6c+
20 m
15m
20 m
20m
32 m
30m
30m
30m
26m
26m
25 m
25m
22m
18m
1 bolt friends # 2-4
2 bolts
5 bolts
4 bolts 1 fix nut friend #1
5 bolts
5 bolts
3 bolts friend #1
4 bolts friends #2
4 bolts friends #2
5 bolts friend #1
4 bolts
4 bolts friends #1
2 bolts friend #2
3 bolts
Boothanatha Lake, Temple and Hermit Wall
page 13
Badami deluxe
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
Badami deluxe
Jumping Indian
Horn Please
Tension Traverse
Ziet
The white line
Remember my daughter
Kingfisher strong
Kingfisher Premium
Zepela Sinha
The happy lion
Strapback
The grey chair
Dizzy
Honey Moon
Surga & Sawli
The last day in Badami
Rope and me
Go to Hampi
The crazy driver
6c
6b
6b+
6a
5c
5c
6c
6c
6b
5b
6c
6b+
6a+
6b+
7b
7a
6c
5b
6b
7a
35m
15m
12m
15m
30m
18m
18m
18m
18m
20m
20m
20 m
25m
25m
25m
25m
25 m
12m
14m
20m
3 bolts friends #1-3, rocks
2 bolts
no bolts
1bolt, friends # 0-1
no bolts
no bolts
1 bolt friends #1-3
1 bolt friends # 0,3 – 1
1 bolt friends # 0,3-1
no bolts
no bolts
no bolts
1 bolt friends # 0,3 – 1
no bolts
5 bolts A. Petit
5 bolts
4 bolts friends #1
no bolts
1 bolt
1 bolt
page 14
Temple area
The locals Narashima M. S. (7b arete Temple area) and Madhu C.
(Battle of the worms, Ganesh Area)
page 15
Areas around Bangalore
Location: please see the map on page 5!
Climbing Wall: In Bangalore there it is a 15 m high climbing wall located at the SRI
KANTEERAVA STADIUM
City Taxi (Metered taxi) - Each taxi has a meter and you pay according to the fare on
the meter. Approximately $0.20 per km.
Taxi – You can hire various types of cars as taxis. Mostly taxis charge for a minimum
of 250kms per day. Depending on the type of car, taxis may charge $0.10 per km to
$0.50 per km. There are also options to hire these cabs inside the city. There are
packages like 4 hours – 40kms, 8 hours – 80kms.
OTHER CLIMBING INFORMATION
Bangalore has about 10 adventure gear stores. The stores are scattered all over the city.
The best option is to get in touch with Terasolutions so they can arrange getting around for
you or with you. These stores usually stock climbing ropes, harnesses, carabiners and quick
draws. You can also hire tents, rucksacks, sleeping bags and mats at these stores.
There are good rock climbers in the city. Local climbers can climb as hard as 5.14a/b or V10
– V11. The climbers are technically sound and use the best gear available. Climbers use
crash pads for bouldering. Mostly crash pads are personal and climbers may not give it on
hire . Though there are a lot of climbers in the city, not all are exposed to natural climbing
and safety procedures. It is best to identify the right climber if you want to take him along as
a guide. A climbing guide may charge you depending on his experience and knowledge of
the areas and routes.
Bouldering Area of Turuhalli
Turuhalli is about 15kms from the centre of Bangalore. It is off the Kanakapura Road.
A lovely bouldering area, it has routes of all grades. Though it is closest to the city,
there are no shops/stores close to the area. One has to carry their own food and
water. It is best to stay in the city and go there for a morning or an evening climb.
Though there are a lot of routes, the hardest is Arnaud Petit’s ULTRAFLASH (V12V13). The maximum height of the boulders is about 15 – 18mts. You can find about
30 – 40 climbs of V3 and above. Mostly slabs and walls, there are a few over
hanging problems too. The local climbers from Bangalore visit Turuhalli a couple of
times every week, so you would probably meet the locals there.
page 16
Arrangements for climbers:
If you want your climbing trip to be fully arranged, with transport, guiding and
accomodation, you should contact:
Terasolutions - Rajesh Shivanna
Tel no: +91 98867 66141
E-mail – rajesh@terasolutions.co.in
Website – www.terasolutions.co.in
TERA solutions is an adventure solutions company, aimed and providing quality information
and services related to adventure. Rajesh S, the founder of TERA solutions has been in the
adventure field for about 15 years and has worked as a trainer and guide in rock climbing,
backpacking, white water rafting, camping, etc, for over 12 years.
TERA solutions is aimed at providing precise and complete information about all adventure sports and
destinations in India. The company has tie-ups with a lot of organizations and individuals all over the
country including the Himalayas. Though the potential for adventure sports is very high in India, the
people do not have an inclination. You might come across a lot of people who may not be very
qualified but claim to be so. TERA solutions aims to consider all these factors and promote adventure
and make sure that each trip is safe, enjoyable and adventurous one.
One of the key things TERA solutions aims at doing is to promote rock climbing in a major way. There
is a lot of potential for rock climbing in India. TERA solutions can arrange a full rock climbing trip to all
climbing destinations in India. We can design an itinerary depending on your needs and desires. We
can arrange transport, stay, climbing guides, gear and any other needs. We can also organize for a
guide to take you around town and make sure you find all the right things you need.
Map:
page 17
Ramanagaram
Ramangaram is about 50kms from Bangalore off Mysore
Road. An amazing climbing area with granite pillars,
Ramanagaram has more than 20 bolted routes with varied
difficulty. The area was visited by French and English
climbers as early as 1988-89. They put up some nice bolted
and natural (traditional) routes from 20 to 200 m.
One of the best ways to reach Ramanagaram is public
transport (state government bus). Bus fare may cost
anything from $0.50 to $2.00 (depending on the type of bus).
Busses can be found from Bangalore in the central bus
station in Majestic area.
There are a lot of busses, almost one every 15mins. The
journey is about 90mins, depending on the traffic in the road.
The busses maybe crowded and may not suit all travelers.
There are air conditioned busses too.
Gerhard in „UIAA“ 6c+
Ramanagaram town is about 5kms from the climbing area. There are no hotels near
the climbing area. It is best to carry / cook your own food. Drinking water is not
available at the area. The only option to stay near the rocks is with a local farmer
(Thimmya´s House!). This person has his house very close to the rocks and is safe to
stay with him.
Gerhard and Petra on the top of Shanti Tower / Ramanagaram
page 18
Overview areas:
page 19
Ramaragam – Routes:
Shanti Tower and Petra in “Shanti” 1st picth
page 20
Savendurga
Savandurga, meaning FORT OF DEATH, was one of the forts of Kempegowda, who
founded Bangalore. Savandurga is an interior place about 60kms from Bangalore.
Savandurga is a huge monolith with about 8 routes on the main dome. Routes range
from 150mts to 300mts. The area has both bolted and natural routes.
Reaching Savandurga is a little hard if one does not know the place. Though there
are busses plying from Bangalore to Savandurga, it is best to arrange for your own
transport as the busses are not always prompt.
You can stay in one of the many Marriage Halls which have rooms. They may cost
anything from $2 to $5 per day. It is better to arrange to cook your own food.
Mineral/bottled water is available at the area.
Savendurga Overview:
page 21
Savendurga – Routes:
The following free pdf downloads are available on
www.gerhardschaar.com
• Climbing & travelling guide Hampi
• Climbing & travelling guide Ton Sai / Railey
• Climbing & travelling guide New Zealand
• Climbing & travelling guide Australia
• The “different” climbers guide to Yosemite
page 22
Thanks:
I want to thank my girlfriend Petra first of all for all the support throughout the
whole journey. Without her help this little guide would have have been
possible.
I also want to thank the local climbers from Bangalore, Rajesh, Pranesh and
Narashima very much for their hospitality and help during our stay in
Bangalore. The rides with the motorbikes through town and to Ramanaragam
are unforgetable.
I especially want to thank Rajesh Shivanna for the contributions and
corrections of the guidebook, as well as my two climbing mates from South
Africa who helped me with a rough drawing of the areas and principal
information.
My thanks also go to Michi Tresch and Marcel Küng from Switzerland, for
lenting us their bouldering pads in Badami.
page 23

Climbing guide to Badami

Transcription

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