the wines of italy - Marc de Grazia Selections

Transcription

THE WINES OF ITALY
In Italy we have over 2,400 different wines - both the largest wine production and greatest spectrum of diversity in the world. France
classified its growths into a hierarchy of crus over a century ago, and did so with remarkable talent and exactitude. We still have not done
so, and have only our D.O.C. – our own “appéllation d’origine” - or our stricter D.O.C.G. to guide the wine world towards the appreciation
of our great wines. It is patently not enough. In fact, the D.O.C.G. alone generates confusion; for example, one may taste Chianti wines
of such boggling diversity that one wonders at the significance of an appellation that groups them all together. Moreover, more often than
not, the laws governing the production of D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. wines hinder rather than help the imaginative and talented producer.
Thus, many quality-oriented wine-makers have started making truly remarkable wines disregarding the D.O.C. laws. But alongside these
we also have unscrupulous estates who, wanting to ride this highly esteemed “nouvelle vague”, have given us uninteresting wines at best.
Furthermore, non-D.O.C. wines can only adopt proprietary names which are too often unknown. Thus, to the wine-lover both at home and
abroad, the picture becomes all the more complex and nebulous. I should like to dissipate some of this confusion, to offer a direction. I am
only interested in wines of outstanding quality. This does not mean only in the greatest wines, but also in “petits vins” of unusual character
– pure wines that in their own class, and in their own right, are the best that one can possibly find. For, just as one would not drink great
Bordeaux or top flight Burgundy daily, so one would not drink Barolo or Brunello on an everyday basis - while one ought to still demand
and obtain very good wine with every meal.
To find a great wine one must first find a great cru. And although the Italian government has not classified them in any comprehensive way,
the hundreds of years of trial and error in our vineyards, and the results that unequivocally followed, have. With a careful but also critical
eye towards tradition and the experience that grows out of tasting and research, I have made my own classifications. My selections offer
them to you.
Secondly - as a wine does not make itself - one must find a great wine-maker. And I pride myself on my collaborator-friends, whom I repute
to be among the finest in Italy. They are the living matter of my selections.
Finally, perhaps my greatest pride today is the resuscitation of once great and famous appellations and their wines. To return dignity and
pride to winemaking in Frascati, Orvieto, Valpolicella, Soave and Verdicchio; to help produce extremely fine wine where the will to do so
had been systematically crushed by the mega-coop and industrial mentality, and the legislature that fostered and protected it. Please give
these wines a try, and I’m sure you will be captured by the self-same excitement and pleasure that captivated the multitudes that once made
these wines deservedly among the most famous in the world.
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THE ESTATES OF
MARC DE GRAZIA SELECTIONS
Aldo & Riccardo Seghesio
Paolo Conterno
Bussia Soprana
Renato Corino
Alessandro Veglio
PIEDMONT
Silvio Grasso
Fratelli Revello
Mario Marengo
Luigi Pira & Figli
F..lli Moccagatta
Albino Rocca
Malabaila
La Morandina
Francesco Boschis
Stefano Massone
TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE
La Cadalora
Viticoltori Alto Adige
Kӧfererhof
Falkenstein
EMILIA ROMAGNA
Poderi Fiorini
LIGURIA
Giacomelli
MARCHE
Boccadigabbia
Bisci
Le Terrazze
Tavignano
Villa Ligi
TUSCANY
Uccelliera
San Filippo
Podere Brizio
La Serena - Rasa 1°
Scopetone
Le Potazzine
G. Brunelli Le Chiuse di Sotto
Casa Sola
Il Palazzino
Le Cinciole
Le Fonti
Monterotondo
Lucignano
Giacomo Mori
Ambra
Dei
Fontaleoni
Le Calcinaie
ABRUZZO
Filomusi Guelfi
PUGLIA
Santa Lucia
Masserie Pizari
BASILICATA
Donato D’Angelo
SARDINIA
Mura
UMBRIA
Palazzone
Pardi
VENETO
Cavalchina
Gini
Tamellini
Roberto Mazzi
Cantine U. Bortolotti
LAZIO
Lorenzo Costantini
SICILY
Terre Nere
Centonze
Le Vigne di Eli Cuppari
Pupillo
Ferrandes
CAMPANIA
Salvatore Molettieri Cantina del Taburno
Antonio Caggiano
De Angelis
Benito Ferrara
Iovine
Colli di Lapio
BOCCADIGABBIA
BISCI
LE TERRAZZE
TAVIGNANO
VILLA LIGI
116
118
120
122
124
PALAZZONE 128
PARDI 130
3
142
144
146
148
150
152
154
SANTA LUCIA 158
MASSERIE PIZARI 160
DONATO D’ANGELO 164
TERRE NERE
LE VIGNE DI ELI
PUPILLO
CENTONZE
FERRANDES
168
170
172
174
176
ABRUZZO 136 LAZIO 132
CAMPANIA 140
SALVATORE MOLETTIERI
ANTONIO CAGGIANO
BENITO FERRARA
COLLI DI LAPIO
CANTINA DEL TABURNO
DE ANGELIS
IOVINE
PUGLIA 156
FILOMUSI GUELFI 138
BASILICATA 162
PODERI FIORINI 112
GINI
TAMELLINI
ROBERTO MAZZI
CANTINE U. BORTOLOTTI
LORENZO COSTANTINI 134
SICILY 166
LIGURIA 88
GIACOMELLI 90
TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE 92
56
58
60
62
64
66
68
70
72
74
76
78
80
82
84
86
VENETO 100
UCCELLIERA
SAN FILIPPO
PODERE BRIZIO
LA SERENA - RASA 1°
SCOPETONE
LE POTAZZINE
GIANNI BRUNELLI
IL PALAZZINO
LE CINCIOLE
LE FONTI
LUCIGNANO
GIACOMO MORI
AMBRA
DEI
FONTALEONI
LE CALCINAIE
102
104
106
108
EMILIA ROMAGNA 110
26
28
30
32
34
36
38
40
42
44
46
48
50
52
MARCHE 114
NEW ARRIVALS 6
A. & R. SEGHESIO
PAOLO CONTERNO
RENATO CORINO
ALESSANDRO VEGLIO
SILVIO GRASSO
FRATELLI REVELLO
MARIO MARENGO
LUIGI PIRA & FIGLI
F.LLI MOCCAGATTA
ALBINO ROCCA
MALABAILA
LA MORANDINA
FRANCESCO BOSCHIS
MASSONE/CAMPOROSSO
LA CADALORA 94
VITICOLTORI ALTO ADIGE 96
KÖFERERHOF 98
UMBRIA 126
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10
12
14
16
17
18
20
22
TUSCANY 54
BUSSIA SOPRANA
CASA SOLA
MONTEROTONDO
FALKENSTEIN
CAVALCHINA
PRENDINA-TORRE D’ORTI
CUPPARI
MURA
ENCRY
PIEDMONT 24
C O N T E N T S
TYPE OF VITICULTURE
INTEGRATED / SUSTAINABLE
Albino Rocca - Piedmont
Alessandro Veglio - Piedmont
Antonio Caggiano - Campania
Benito Ferrara - Campania
Boccadigabbia - Marche
Bortolotti - Veneto
Cantina del Taburno - Campania
Casa Sola - Tuscany
Cavalchina - Veneto
Centonze - Sicily
Colli di Lapio - Campania
Cuppari - Sicily
De Angelis - Campania
Dei - Tuscany
Donato D’Angelo - Basilicata
Falkenstein - Trentino Alto Adige
Filomusi Guelfi - Abruzzo
Fratelli Pardi - Umbria
Fratelli Revello - Piedmont
Giacomo Mori - Tuscany
Giacomelli - Liguria
Gianni Brunelli-Le Chiuse di Sotto - Tuscany
Iovine - Campania
Kӧfererhof - Trentino Alto Adige
Le Potazzine - Tuscany
Le Terrazze - Marche
Lorenzo Costantini - Lazio
Lucignano - Tuscany
Malabaila - Piedmont
Marengo - Piedmont
Masserie Pizari - Puglia
Moccagatta - Piedmont
Mura - Sardinia
Palazzone - Umbria
Paolo Conterno - Piedmont
Pira -Piedmont
Poderi Fiorini - Emilia Romagna
Pupillo - Sicily
Renato Corino - Piedmont
Roberto Mazzi - Veneto
Salvatore Molettieri - Campania
Scopetone - Tuscany
Seghesio - Piedmont
Silvio Grasso - Piedmont
S. Massone/Camporosso - Piedmont
Tamellini - Veneto
Tenuta di Tavignano - Marche
Uccelliera - Tuscany
Villa Ligi - Marche
Viticoltori Alto Adige - Trentino Alto Adige
INTEGRATED / SUSTAINABLE TOSCANA AGRIQUALITA’ CERTIFICATION
Ambra - Tuscany
PRACTICING ORGANIC
Bussia Soprana - Piedmont
Encry - France
Ferrandes - Sicily
Francesco Boschis - Piedmont
Gini - Veneto
La Cadalora - Trentino Alto Adige
La Morandina - Piedmont
Santa Lucia - Puglia
IN THE CONVERSION PHASE TO CERTIFIED ORGANIC
Bisci - Marche
Fontaleoni - Tuscany
Le Fonti - Tuscany
Podere Brizio - Tuscany
Podere Il Palazzino - Tuscany
CERTIFIED ORGANIC
Centonze - Sicily (Cerasuolo di Vittoria)
La Serena - Tuscany
Le Cinciole - Tuscany
Le Vigne di Eli - Sicily
Monterotondo - Tuscany
San Filippo - Tuscany
Tenuta delle Terre Nere - Sicily
CERTIFIED ORGANIC / US NOP CERTIFICATION
Le Calcinaie - Tuscany
For more detailed information please consult our website or the QR code at the page of each producer
NEW ARRIVALS
6
PIEDMONT
TUSCANY
FRANCE
SARDINIA
TUSCANY
TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE
SICILY
7
VENETO - LOMBARDIA
Piedmont
Azienda Agricola
Silvano Casiraghi, who owns the estate together with Guido Rossi, has been in the wine business for 45 years. Till 2011 Silvano
had a wine distribution company working with French wines and with important Italian estates, he then decided to dedicate
himself full-time to his property.
Azienda Agricola Bussia Soprana was established in 1992, when Silvano purchased holdings in the homonymous zone. In 1995
other holdings in the zone of Mosconi were added when Guido Rossi became a partner and in 1999 other vineyards standing in
the Gabutti della Bussia zone were added. At present, the vineyard extension is 22 hectares (all located within the municipality
of Monforte d’Alba) in prized crus for the production of Barolo: Colonnello, Gabutti, Mosconi and Bussia Soprana.
The Colonello cru, of an extension of 0.5 hectares, is located right in front of the homestead at 380 meters above sea level with
a south/south-west exposure, the soil is loamy. The vines are approximately 65 years old.
The vineyards of the Gabutti cru stand within the homonymous district and extend for two hectares at 380 meters above sea
level. The exposure is south/south-west. The average age of the vines is 30 years except for some parcels with 50 year old vines.
The Mosconi cru is a magnificent amphitheatre of vineyards in the Mosconi district which produces the highest quality Nebbiolo,
Barbera and Dolcetto grapes. The soil is made up of calcareous marl of Miocenic origin and it is highly alkaline. The altitude is
350-400 meters above sea level, the exposure is south. These vineyards are extremely steep with a very narrow spacing which
makes mechanisation very difficult. The average age of the vines is 50 years and the vines of some parcels are 65 years old.
The Bussia Soprana cru is a group of vineyards in the homonymous district. The soil is made up of calcareous marl of Miocenic
origin. The extension is approximately 5 hectares. The vineyards have various exposures ranging from south, south-east and
south-west. The average age of the vines is 15-50 years.
Not all of the four Baroli made from the four different crus (in the very best vintages a riserva version is also made) are released
every year: only the wine that reaches the highest quality standards is bottled.
The Baroli mature in large Allier oak casks of a capacity of 30 hectolitres in order to maintain the character of the four crus
which very much differ the one from the other. Furthermore, these wines are released on the market not after a determined period
of time, but depending on their evolution.
The estate also has vineyards in excellent locations for the production of Barbera.
Bussia Soprana is practicing organic and meticulous and natural practices are followed in the vineyards. Grape yield is low, just
5 tons/hectare, resulting in not over 1 kilogram per vine (one grape cluster). The vineyards are harvested twice so to pick the
grapes only when they are perfectly ripe.
Silvano has an incredible passion and an incredible palate for wine: he tells us that he has “bathed” in it his whole life, having
worked for top châteaux in Burgundy and in the Champagne and for famous Italian estates. Silvano also has a particular passion
for Nebbiolo and has chosen vineyards in outstanding positions. All this is reflected in the wonderful Baroli and Barbere that
we are very happy to welcome in our selection.
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8
Barolo DOCG Mosconi
Zone: Monforte d’Alba
Cru: Vigna Mosconi
Varietal: 100% Nebbiolo
Vineyard Ext.: 2 hectares
Average Prod.: 3,000 bottles
Barolo DOCG
Gabutti della Bussia
Cru: Vigna Gabutti della Bussia
Vineyard Ext.: 1.5 hectares
Barbera d’Alba DOC
Vigna Mosconi
Barolo DOCG Vigna Colonnello
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Cru: Vigna Mosconi
Varietal: 100% Barbera
Monforte d’Alba
Vigna Colonnello
100% Nebbiolo
0.5 hectares
3,000 bottles
Type of Viticulture: Practicing Organic
9
Società Agricola
Tuscany
Fattoria Casa Sola, which has been owned by the Counts Gambaro for three generations, was completely renovated when
Giuseppe, father of Matteo who now manages the estate, decided to fully dedicate himself to the property in 1985 together with
his wife Claudia. The vineyards were replanted and the machinery and the equipment were renovated.
The setting of Casa Sola, one of the most ancient names of the area, is enchanting: in the area of Barberino Val d’Elsa right in
the centre of the Chianti Classico in the midst of vineyards, woodland and olive groves. The influence of the Tyrrhenian sea
makes the climate of this zone a little milder in comparison to the one of the higher hills of Greve and a barrier of woodland
offers protection to the vineyards. The vineyard extension is approximately 30 hectares at an altitude of 330 meters above sea
level, the soil is medium textured tending to clayey, vineyard density varies from 3,500 vines/hectare to 6,000 vines/hectare. As
parts of the vineyards are replanted each year, the age of the vines varies between 1 and 40 years.
Each hectare is meticulously cared for and natural/sustainable viticulture is pursued. The Sangiovese clones are obtained by
cuttings taken from the vineyards of Casa Sola and propagated by a nursery. The project of Matteo is now to make Chianti
Classico exclusively with Sangiovese, in other words to be most “classical” in the Chianti Classico.
Very modern equipment is used in the vinification cellar which is placed next to the ancient ageing cellar.
The blend of the Chianti Classico is mainly Sangiovese with a touch of freshness given by Canaiolo. The ageing in large oak
casks enhances the primary aromatics with a very slight influence from the wood resulting in a wine with a very “intriguing”
nose and which is extremely pleasant to drink.
The Chianti Classico Riserva is a wine to which Matteo tried to give a “velvet complexity”. The style is quite traditional.
70% of the riserva ages in large oak casks, the rest ages in old barriques in order to maintain the primary aromatics and its
character linked to the terroir. It is slightly more spicy and concentrated in comparison to the non riserva Chianti Classico.
The two IGT/proprietary wines can be described as a “supertuscan” (Montarsiccio) and a “minituscan”.
Montarsiccio is a bordeaux blend with a Tuscan touch of Sangiovese: an international wine with a Tuscan heart. The grandfather
of Matteo used to meet up with the famous oenologist Giacomo Tachis (who suggested to plant Cabernet) in 1965 and Matteo’s
grandmother used to speak about wine better in French than in Italian. That is why this wine is oriented towards the French
tradition.
The “minituscan” is the opposite: this wine wants to follow the tradition of the old Chianti Classico when white varietals were
allowed (they were banned in 2006), in fact there is a small percentage of Malvasia Toscana and of Trebbiano in the blend. This
is the typical Chianti that was once bottled in flasks. It is a lively, fresh and drinkable wine.
These wines are extremely enjoyable and they all have a lovely extra touch.
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10
Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG
Zone: Barberino Val d’Elsa (Florence)
Varietals: Sangiovese with a small %
of indigenous red berry varietals
Chianti Classico DOCG
Zone:
Varietals:
Barberino Val d’Elsa (Florence)
Sangiovese with a small % of
indigenous red berry varietals
Type of Viticulture: Integrated / Sustainable
11
Azienda Agricola
Tuscany
The estate is located within the heart of the Chianti country, in Gaiole, and the homestead dates back to 1056. Monterotondo was
established in 1959 by the grandfather of the present owner, Saverio Basagni, after which it became a hobby for Saverio’s father.
Saverio and his wife Fabiana now manage the property as their principal activity. All the vineyards were replanted and now the
vineyard extension is 3.5 hectares (all within the Chianti Classico appellation), 3 hectares of which are planted with Sangiovese
and 0.5 hectares are planted with Canaiolo, Malvasia Nera and Colorino.
The philosophy of Saverio is to make excellent wine without the use of chemicals: in fact organic viticulture has been pursued
for 13 years and the estate has been certified organic since 2003.
The owner also firmly believes that the quality of the wine is exclusively determined by the quality of the grapes it is made from.
In fact the vineyards are carefully tended: specific plants are sown on the aisles between the rows of vines, the grape yield per
vine is kept at just 1-1.2 kilograms.
The cellar has been completely renovated over the years and it is equipped with stainless steel vats and a bottling plant. Only
Slavonian oak barrels and casks are used and the capacity is never below 5 hectolitres. Slavonian oak is preferred to French oak
as it is less “aromatic” and does not cover the fruit in the wine. Only the indigenous yeasts present on the grape berry skins are
responsible for fermentation and only, very little, SO2 is added to the wine.
The Chianti Classico Vaggiolata is named after the slope facing south/south-east of the estate (Poggio Vaggiolata). The altitude
(530-570 meters above sea level), the soil which is loose and “poor” and the exposure are the ideal conditions for Sangiovese
and for the other indigenous varietals (Canaiolo and Malvasia Nera) which make up the blend of this interesting, quite unique
and “full blooded” Chianti Classico, similar to a Brunello or to a Barolo with a character that greatly reflects the terroir. The
wine then rests in Slavonian oak casks (7.5-10 hectolitre capacity) for 12-14 months and it is not filtered before bottling.
Chianti Classico Riserva Seretina is made from a tiny plot facing south, just 3,000-4,000 square meters, planted with 20 rows
of vines which are carefully tended and harvested directly by the Basagni family. The blend is mainly Sangiovese with a small
percentage of Malvasia Nera. The clone is a clone of Sangiovese da Brunello that is particularly suited for the soil rich in
galestro (clayey schists) and with a very good drainage and which yields very pleasant wines with spicy tones and that will age
for a very long time. Slavonian oak casks (of a capacity of 7.5-10 hectolitres) are also preferred for this riserva where it matures
for 24-28 months.
Both wines area perfect match with “bollito misto” (mixed boiled meat), with “stracotto” (beef stew), with very seasoned cheese
or with Parmigiano Reggiano that has been aged for 30 months.
Saverio suggests to drink Vaggiolata during a meal, but to drink the riserva Seretina afterwards with friends, he also says that
one must make great wines, but they must be drinkable and in the case of Monterotondo it is certainly true!
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12
Riserva Seretina
Zone: Gaiole in Chianti (Siena)
Varietals: 95% Sangiovese, 5% Malvasia Nera
Chianti Classico DOCG Vaggiolata
Zone:
Varietals:
Gaiole in Chianti (Siena)
85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo,
5% Malvasia Nera
Average Prod.: 7,000 - 8,000 bottles
Type of Viticulture: Certified Organic
13
Azienda Agricola
Trentino Alto Adige
The estate has belonged to the Pratzner family for 400 years. It is located at 675 meters above sea level on a sunny hill near the
village of Naturno, in the lower Venosta valley, 12 kilometres from the town of Merano in Alto Adige. The climate of this lovely
valley is dry and windy. The soil is poor and difficult to cultivate. The altitude and the prehistoric rock of the soil are ideal for
the production of white wines with great character and of delicate reds. The vineyards stand above the picturesque castle of
Naturno and have been managed with a great passion for over 15 years by Franz Pratzner, the present owner, together with his
wife Bernadette. Franz is the agronomist and the wine maker of the estate as well.
The vineyards, all with southern exposure, extend for 12 hectares and are planted with Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir,
Gewürztraminer and Riesling. Apple trees, peach trees and Schiava (Vernatsch) vines were previously cultivated in this location.
The vine training system is espalier (Guyot) and the vineyard density is 9,000-12,000 vines/hectare.
Sustainable/integrated viticulture is pursued, grass is left on the aisles between the rows of vines, and specific leguminous plants
are sown every 5-6 years. Copper and sulphur base products are mainly sprayed and only organic fertilizers are used.
The cellar, with very modern equipment, has been totally renovated in the last two years. Acacia casks, of a capacity of 10-40
hectolitres, are used to vinify and mature the white wines, which are kept on the lees till bottling. Acacia wood is neutral so that
the complex aromatics of the wines are maintained.
The wines are rich and structured, the fruit is intense and complex with a lively and fresh acidity.
The Italian and international specialised press consider the Riesling one of the best produced south of the Alps.
The average production is approximately 90,000 bottles/year.
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14
Alto Adige Val Venosta DOC
Pinot Bianco
Zone: Naturns (Bozen)
Varietal: 100% Pinot Bianco
Sauvignon
Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Alto Adige Val Venosta DOC Riesling
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Naturns (Bozen)
100% Riesling
7 hectares
45,000 bottles
Pinot Nero
Varietal: 100% Pinot Bianco
Vineyard Ext.: 1 hectare
15
Veneto and Lombardia
Luciano Piona is an old friend and a sailor like me. He took me to the
Ristorante “Al Ponte” in Sommacampagna (that since then has become a “must”
during the Vinitaly Fair) for the first time and there I tasted the excellent wines
that he produces together with his brother Franco. I am now very happy to
include the three estates of the Piona family in our selection.
◊
Azienda Agricola
(Custoza, a district of Sommacampagna, province of Verona)
The estate was established at the beginning of the 1900s, when the first vineyards were
purchased. The cellar was built later and part of it was used as a distillery of grape marc till
1967. In 1962 Cavalchina was the first winery to call the white wine of this area (a blend of
Fernanda, Trebbiano and Garganega grapes) “Custoza” and to sell it in Rome and in Milan,
the most important markets of the time. Only the grape varietals that are most suited for the
area are grown, yields are kept low and only the best clusters go into the wine that is bottled.
Modern technology is used in the cellar, but tradition is also respected. The wines produced
are: Bianco di Custoza DOC, Bianco di Custoza Superiore DOC, Bardolino DOC, Bardolino
Chiaretto DOC, Bardolino Superiore DOCG.
Vineyard extension: 40 hectares - Total average production/year: 373,500 bottles.
◊
Bardolino DOC
Zone: Custoza, Sommacampagna (Verona)
Varietals: 60% Corvina, 30% Rondinella, 10% Molinara
Vineyard Extension: 7 hectares
16
Azienda Agricola
(Monzambano, province of Mantova)
This estate was purchased by the Piona family in 1958 and vineyards were planted. The
origins of La Prendina go back to the times of the Gonzaga, Lords of Mantova (XIV century).
In the beginning the wines were released with the label of La Cavalchina and the first wine
with the label of La Prendina was a Merlot bottled in 1980 for the famous chef Gualtiero
Marchesi. As of 1990 the wines of this estate have their own brand. Environment friendly
practices are followed in the vineyards in order to favour the concentration in the wines,
without altering but enhancing the main characteristics of the different grape varieties. The
wines produced are: Merlot Garda DOC, Alto Mincio Pinot Grigio IGT.
Vineyard extension: 50.33 hectares - Total average production/year: 360,000 bottles.
◊
Alto Mincio Pinot Grigio IGT
Zone: Monzambano (Mantova)
Cru: Casina, Prendina
Varietal: 100% Pinot Grigio
Vineyard Extension: 25 hectares
Azienda Agricola
(Marcellise, in the Valpolicella zone, province of Verona)
The estate, in the Valpolicella area, is named after the ancient watchtower of the Castle
of Montorio. Terracing where the farmers used to grow olives, grain and vines can still
be seen. The Piona family recently purchased this land and planted vineyards with the
indigenous varietals of Valpolicella. The soil here is the typical red soil of the area mixed
with white chalk. This type of soil combined with the altitude gives great elegance to
the wines and makes them suitable for a long ageing. As in the other two estates, natural
practices are followed in the vineyards, the grape yield is kept low and only the best
clusters are vinified. Modern technology is used in the cellar bearing tradition in mind.
The wines produced are: Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, Valpolicella Superiore
DOC, Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso DOC, Rosso Provincia di Verona IGT.
Vineyard extension: 10.61 hectares - Total average production/year: 71,500 bottles. ◊
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG
Zone: Marcellise (Verona)
Varietals: 75% Corvina and Corvinone,
15% Rondinella, 10% Oseleta
Vineyard Extension: 4.67 hectares
17
Azienda Agricola
Sicily
The “P. Cuppari” agricultural Institute of Messina has its headquarters in a Benedictine monastery dating back to the 1500s. It
stands on a hill from which there is a breathtaking view of the whole strait of Messina. Wine was produced throughout the whole
history of the monastery, but high quality wines were made starting from the 1900s when the “Royal School of Agriculture” was
established. Indigenous vine varieties were planted and modern equipment, such as a very avant-garde crusher destemmer, was
purchased.
The “Faro” DOC appellation was established in 1976 and the Institute took part in the drawing up of the production regulation.
In 1978 the first vineyard for the production of “Faro” wine was planted on the Institute’s land. In 2005 the vineyards were
replanted and the vineyard extension was increased up to 4.5 hectares. A cellar with modern equipment was built within the
warehouses of the monastery.
The ancient Greek population of the Phari colonized this area and it seems that the “Faro” wine was named after them. Viticulture
and wine making goes back as far as the Mycenean period (XIV b.C.!!) in this area of Sicily. The Romans also appreciated
the wines from Messina very much. At the end of the 1900s the wines from this area were exported to France after the French
vineyards were destroyed by phylloxera. At the end of the 1800s there were 45,000 hectares of vineyards in the province of
Messina, but at present the vineyards extend for just 900 hectares (here we intend the total vineyard extension, including the
Faro DOC appellation).
The Faro DOC appellation is tiny, just 40 hectares of vineyards all within the area of the commune of Messina (which is included
in the larger area of the province of Messina).
The “P. Cuppari” Institute is the first producer of the appellation for vineyard extension (4.5 hectares) and the second for bottle
production/year (8,000-8,500 bottles).
The “San Placido” Faro DOC - a blend of Nerello Mascalese, Nocera (an indigenous varietal), Nerello Cappuccio, Nero d’Avola
and Sangiovese – is a very special wine, as all the phases of production in the vineyard and in the cellar are followed by the
students of the agricultural school. The first vintage to be bottled was 2010. The vinification is supervised by the oenologist
Nicola Centonze (who owns Centonze Srl – part of our portfolio – together with his family). Furthermore, all the earnings from
this wine return to the school to finance its courses, to buy equipment and to finance this project.
This wine matures for 12 months in French oak barriques and tonneaux. The nose is rich and intense, with notes of red berries
and Mediterranean spices. In the mouth it is well structured, persistent and slightly sapid. Try it with red and white meat dishes,
game, with swordfish or with “Pesce stocco alla ghiotta”, a typical dish of Messina which is stockfish and potatoes cooked in
a sauce of tomatoes, celery, onions, capers and olives.
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18
San Placido Faro DOC
Zone:
Varietals:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Calonerò (Messina)
60% Nerello Mascalese,
20% Nerello Cappuccio,
10% Nocera, 5% Nero d’Avola,
5% Sangiovese
4.5 hectares
8,500 bottles
19
Azienda Vitivinicola
Sardinia
For the first time our selection now offers you some very special wines from Sardinia and from a very special estate.
Azienda Vitivinicola Mura is in the north west of the island near Olbia, six kilometres inland and was established in 1975 by
Filippo Mura, the father of Salvatore and Marianna, as a hobby. He planted 7 hectares of vineyards on the old bed of a river
after levelling the land out and removing a lot of the granite rocks. A huge granite rock can still be seen among the vines.
The sea breezes meet here with the breezes that blow from the mountains creating a particular microclimate and lowering the
temperature in the afternoon and at night. Bear in mind that the temperature can go up to 40-41 degrees Celsius in August!
Since 1999 Marianna and Salvatore work full time at the estate after Filippo entrusted them with the management. Marianna
is the wine maker, she has a degree in biology and one in oenology and viticulture and has specialised her knowledge in white
vinification in Friuli working for a season at the estates of Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore. Salvatore is an agricultural
technician, he manages the vineyards, together with Marianna, and he follows the marketing of the wines.
At present the vineyard extension is 13 hectares, 8 hectares are planted with Vermentino, the rest are planted with indigenous
red varietals such as Cannonau, Bovale and Carignano. The altitude is 150-200 meters above sea level, the soil is made up of red
clay, it has little organic matter and is rich in white, pink and purple quartzite and in granite.
According to recent studies, Vermentino was imported from Spain in the XIX century either directly by ship and grown at first
around the town of Alghero or it was brought to Sardinia through the south of France, Liguria and Tuscany. While is seems that
Cannonau is most definitely an autochthonous grape. The traditional wines of Sardinia were red, the production of white wines
is more recent.
The vineyards are beautifully tended, herbicides and chemical products are banned, grass is left on the aisles between the rows
of vines, only copper and sulphur are sprayed in order to prevent disease. When needed, manure from local farms is spread.
Because of the hot climate during the summer the vines are deleafed very little. The younger vines are irrigated as the clayey
soil dries easily.
Because of the composition of the soil and the vicinity of the Tyrrhenian sea, the Vermentino di Gallura (this is the only DOCG
appellation in Sardinia) of the Mura family is particularly mineral, sapid, it has a lot of structure. Furthermore, these wines have
a good acidity, due to the cool afternoon breezes, that make them fresh and vibrant.
Marianna’s version of Cannonau is different from the traditional one: the grapes are harvested earlier, the maceration with the
skins is short (five days) so as to make fresh and fruity wines, with cherry and strawberry notes, wines that are appreciated also
by a young public.
Marianna and Salvatore speak about their estate with enthusiasm and with love and this can be felt drinking these wines.
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20
Vermentino di Gallura DOCG
Cheremi
Zone: Azzanidò and Monti districts
(Olbia-Tempio)
Cru: Mura vineyards and
a small plot in Monti
Varietal: 100% Vermentino
Cannonau di Sardegna DOC
Cortes
Zone: Azzanidò and Monti districts
(Olbia-Tempio)
Cru: Mura vineyards and
a small plot in Monti
Varietal: 100% Cannonau
Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG
Sienda
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Isola dei Nuraghi IGT Baja
Azzanidò district (Olbia-Tempio)
Mura vineyards
100% Vermentino
3 hectares
18,000 bottles
Zone: Azzanidò (Olbia-Tempio)
Cru: Mura vineyards
Varietal: 80% Cannonau, 15% Carignano,
5% Bovale Sardo
Average Prod.: 3,000-5,000 bottles
21
France
The vineyards stand in the well known zone of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (Reims) one of the 17 Grand Crus of Champagne, in the
heart of the Côte des Blancs.
Enrico and Nadia, Enrico’s companion both in business and in life, are two Italians (which sounds unusual for the Champagne
area) who produce champagne with their vigneron (a récoltant-manipulant, harvester-producer aka chef de cave) Jean Michel.
Enrico has always had a great passion for Champagne but his core business in life deals with environmental and rehabilitation
engineering, through the “hydroseeding” technique, a process based on the use of slurry seed and mulch. This technique is
applied to steep vineyards in order to prevent erosion and to provide oxygen to the vine roots.
When Enrico was working as an environmental engineer first in Tuscany then in the Champagne region he had the chance to
meet Jean Michel, his future wine maker. That is when his adventure in Champagne began.
The name “ENCRY” is given by the union of Enrico’s nickname “Enry” and the letter “c” which stands for “champagne”.
The Maison is registered as “Veuve Blanche Estelle” and it is enrolled among the récoltants-manipulants: those small producers
that harvest, produce and market their wines directly. This is the reason why the indication “R.M.” is found on the label.
The result: vins de plaisir, appreciated throughout the world, with a wide range of creations, the variety of which will fit all
occasions perfectly. The aim of Maison Vue Blanche Estelle is to keep up the good job by producing finest champagne that
enables to seduce and to gain those consumers looking for “ENCRY”, which means not only the prestige of a Grand Cuvée but
also a brand that excels in taste and elegance. An excellent discovery of rare pleasures and sensations.
The Maison produces 4 different wines, all Chardonnay based:
BRUT - 100% Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs - Grand Cru
ZERO DOSAGE - 100% Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs - Grand Cru
MILLESIME 2005 - 100% Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs - Grand Cru
GRAND ROSE - 95% Chardonnay - 5% Vin Rouge de Pinot Noire - Grand Cru
The total average production amounts to 30,000 of bottles each year.
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22
Champagne - Blanc de Blancs
Grand Cru - Grande Cuvée
“ENCRY” Zéro Dosage
Zone: Le Mesnil Sur Oger (France)
Varietal: 100% Chardonnay
Champagne - Blanc de Blancs
Grand Cru - Grande Cuvée
“ENCRY” Millésime 2005
Champagne - Blanc de Blancs - Grand Cru
Grande Cuvée “ENCRY” Brut
Zone:
Varietal:
Zone: Le Mesnil Sur Oger (France)
Le Mesnil Sur Oger (France)
100% Chardonnay
23
PIEDMONT
If Tuscany with its moderately large estates and Renaissance villas and castles may be found to be reminiscent of Bordeaux,
Piedmont, bespeckled with microscopic properties whose average vineyard is no larger than two acres, is unquestionably more
akin to Burgundy. And just as all the regions above have their own predominant varietal, so does Piedmont. For although
the Dolcetto grape is responsible for delightfully fresh and fragrant wines; and largely thanks to the producers I collaborate
with, the Barbera grape has regained its status as a very fine varietal; and while in Moscato d’Asti we have one of the world’s
most appealing aromatic dessert wines; unquestionably the Nebbiolo varietal - responsible for Barolo and Barbaresco and
concurring largely in the makeup of many other fine wines - is king in Piedmont.
At their best, Barolo and Barbaresco can match any wine the world over, and Piedmont’s reputation as the greatest red wine
region of Italy largely stems from these oenological masterpieces. Yet in the not too distant past these wines suffered a loss in
popularity easily measurable by the ignorance that surrounded them both in Italy and abroad.
This has been largely due to the vast amounts of wine on the market that have not delivered what their reputation promised.
Moreover, the obvious diversity between wines produced in virtually adjacent vineyards has naturally generated confusion with
the consumer. Clearly, legislative seriousness is demanded here, where very small, but highly diversified microclimates cry out
for a cru classification.
Furthermore, improper winemaking coupled to the general unavailability of qualified information has led to the recklessly
widespread myth that Barolo and Barbaresco are wines packed with hard tannins, virtually undrinkable before a 10 year aging
period, whereas it is largely untrue that longer aging is required of a fine Barbaresco or Barolo than it is of a fine Bordeaux.
If this myth has been at least in part dispelled and if the demanding wine drinker is requesting the wines of Piedmont more and
more, no small thanks is due to the producers with whom I have worked for over three decades, for unquestionably it was they
and few others that pioneered and paved the way to quality for all to try and follow.
That Piedmont’s climate is more tasking on red wines than any other in Italy, and that inevitably great vintages are usually less
common than one would like them to be - this is true and must be admitted. But it is certainly no more problematic than the
climates of Bordeaux or Burgundy.
Accordingly, without exceptional crus backed by very talented winemakers, demanding world class wines from Piedmont would
be asking too much. But both of these we have, and my selection stands as proof: ever since I started my selection, nearly every
year at least one new producer from Piedmont irresistibly crept in. These are talented men who have dedicated themselves, mind
and body, to produce the greatest wines possible. Most of them have very small properties, but all have the finest crus, the will
and the drive, the pride and the capacity.
Each estate that you will find described here represents, vintage after vintage, the finest effort from each respective cru.
Over three decades ago, when I first started my selections, these estates were virtually unknown. More often than not, these
estates were ridiculed for employing simple yet unheard of, and certainly unorthodox, techniques of vinification.
Today, all the estates of my selection are known the world over for their splendid wines, valued as the finest expression of their
kind. Together they embrace many of the great crus of Piedmont in all their rich diversity. Their wines are in all ways outstanding,
yet in all ways fascinatingly and remarkably different.
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24
Main indigenous varietals
Nebbiolo
Barbera
Dolcetto
Moscato Bianco
Arneis
Cortese
25
Piedmont
Azienda Agricola
I met Aldo and Riccardo Seghesio in 1990 through two fine friends and great winemakers of the area who occasionally bought
small quantities of grapes from them. In fact, they were signalled to me for the outstanding quality of their vineyards in
Monforte’s cru of La Villa. This, I soon found out upon visiting, is a beautiful, small, tremendously steep south-facing slope
only workable by hand.
The first release of the estate - the 1988 Barolo la Villa (first bottling ever from this cru!) - happily coincided with a magnificent
vintage. The character of La Villa betrays its vicinity to La Ginestra, its better known neighboring cru justly famous for the
elegance of its wines. Seghesio’s Barolo expresses unusually deep colour, great finesse of bouquet with musk and tobacco scents
and a concentrated, rich, silky texture that lingers long on the palate.
The low yields, the wonderful terroir and the fine winemaking also contribute in the making of very attractive Dolcetto and
Barbera and perhaps the finest Nebbiolo I have ever tasted.
Furthermore, a Langhe Rosso (under the name of Bouquet - a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo) started being
produced in 1996 and a Barolo “base” (made from the younger vines of the “La Villa” vineyard) was released on the market in
2011.
Riccardo, after Aldo passed away in 2010, is at the helm of the estate supported by Aldo’s two sons, Sandro and Marco, and by
his daughter Michela. The winemaking philosophy of the estate remains the same: a modern style that interprets and respects
this remarkable terroir.
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26
Barolo DOCG
Dolcetto d’Alba DOC
Barolo DOCG La Villa
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Varietal: 100% Dolcetto
Cru: La Chiesa
Monforte d’Alba
La Villa
100% Nebbiolo
4 hectares
10,000 bottles
27
Piedmont
Ginestra is a historical cru as, since at the end of the nineteenth century, it was considered a zone where Barolo of “superior”
excellence was made. The 10 hectares belonging to this estate are located in the best position of this wonderful steep (the
gradient here is 38%!) vineyard: calcareous-clayey soil, at the optimal altitude of 300-350 meters above sea level, mainly south
exposure and a part facing south-east, the microclimate here is ideal for the perfect ripening of the clusters. What more could a
viticulturist and wine-maker want!
The azienda is not only unique because of this extraordinary vineyard, but also because it has belonged to the Conterno family
for four generations (since 1886) and because to produce the perfect Barolo has always been the aim of the family members.
Tradition is followed in the ageing cellar, still the original one, where the wines rest in large French oak casks (35 hectolitres).
Very modern equipment, instead, is found in the vinification cellar where special vertical vessels are used: they have a tank
on the upper part into which the must is pumped (from the lower section) by special pumps that “drag” the liquid without any
contact with machinery parts. Depending on the quantity of must let into the lower section of the vessel, the cap can be just wet
or punched down without mechanical devices. With this method the extraction of colour and of aromatics is very efficient and
the great character of the Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto grown at the estate is maintained.
Barolo Ginestra, also in the “riserva” version in the best vintages, is made from a strict selection of the clusters and from the
older vines. Here the maceration with the skins is long in order to favour complexity. Barolo “Riva del Bric” is made from a
vineyard on the border -“riva” in Piedmontese dialect - of the southern face of the Ginestra cru, where the vines were replanted
13 years ago. The maceration with the skins is shorter so to make the wine more “ready” when released on the market.
The Ginestra cru is unmistakable in all the wines: the evident but velvety tannins supported by a wonderful freshness (in fact
Ginestra is called “the valley of austere and long-lasting Barolo”), the unique balsamic, mineral and spicy tones, the power and
the elegance.
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28
Barolo DOCG Riva del Bric
Cru: Vigneto Ginestra
La Ginestra
Langhe Nebbiolo DOC
A Mont
Barolo DOCG Ginestra
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Monforte d’Alba
Vigneto Ginestra
100% Nebbiolo
3 hectares
18,000 bottles
29
Azienda Agricola
Piedmont
After his father’s estate was divided in 2006, Renato established his own estate in the Arborina area. The vineyards stand in the
prized La Morra crus of Rocche dell’Annunziata, Arborina and Pozzo.
The cellar is extremely modern and equipped with vinification vats with temperature control and every year 30% of the barriques
(exclusively medium toasted French oak) are replaced with new ones.
Renato is a perfectionist in the vineyards: no chemical products are sprayed, only copper and sulphur is used, grass is left on
the aisles between the rows of vines and then it is tilled into the soil in the winter, which means that no herbicides nor fertilizers
are used either. He very carefully drops fruit at the end of July and shortly before the harvest so that the clusters that are picked
are perfect. The result is certainly outstanding: the single vineyard Barbera Vigna Pozzo joins the half dozen world class wines
produced by this varietal. A wine of stunning concentration, colour and length, it displays a phenomenal complexity of flavours
and aromas.
Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is a wine whose magical elegance and finesse are unrivalled in the whole appellation and brand
the cru as the “Musigny” of Barolo.
Arborina will no doubt remain the classic it has always been. An archetypal La Morra expression in its generous flesh, it
distinguishes itself from all other surrounding crus by a touch of austerity, that tannic grip in the finish which is the trademark
of this cru.
Renato also makes a Barolo Riserva, mainly from the older vines of the Rocche vineyard, a Barolo “base”, a Dolcetto and a
Nebbiolo d’Alba .
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30
Barolo DOCG Arborina
Zone: La Morra
Cru: Arborina
Pozzo
Zone: La Morra
Barolo DOCG Rocche della Annunziata
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC
Zone: Vezza d’Alba
La Morra
Rocche dell’Annunziata
100% Nebbiolo
0.6 hectares
3,500 bottles
31
Piedmont
Azienda Agricola
Alessandro Veglio is a young oenological technician and a great friend of Renato Corino. In fact, after he finished his studies, he
started helping Renato and testing the potential of his family’s vineyards in La Morra by making a small quantity of wine. The
potential was certainly there so that Alessandro built a cellar in 2007 (up to 2005 the grapes were sold) where the total grape
production was vinified starting with the 2008 harvest. The equipment is modern and essential: vertical vinification tanks with
temperature control and French oak barriques (fine grained, medium toast).
The estate is tiny, just 4.5 hectares, Barolo (made from 40-45 year old vines of the Lampia biotype of Nebbiolo in two versions,
single vineyard from the Gattera cru and “base”) and Barbera stem from vineyards in La Morra, while vineyards in Canale, in
the Roero, yield a Langhe Nebbiolo and vineyards in Roddino a Dolcetto d’Alba. Viticulture here is sustainable, only sulphur
and copper base products, no weed-killers, only dung is used as a fertilizer.
Alessandro is the only vigneron of his family and has very clear ideas of how his wine should be: he wants his wines to be
natural, to be an expression of the vines they come from, but at the same time they should be drinkable and pleasant when
released, wood should serve the purpose of enhancing the good qualities and it should never become an “ingredient”. In fact the
percentage of new wood (higher for the Barolo Gattera in comparison to the “base”) is carefully studied. Malo-lactic in wood
for the two Baroli and for the Langhe Nebbiolo extracts and stabilises the colour while bâtonnages stir the lees in order to give
structure and make the wines “fat”.
This young producer of La Morra is by all means going in the right direction, all the wines reflect his way of thinking and his
hard work, they are at the same time classical and modern.
The choice of making Langhe Nebbiolo in the Roero is a well studied one: due to the sandy soil and the younger vines (2025 years), the wine is round and supple in the mouth with velvety tannins, a good counterpart to the powerful and extremely
pleasant Baroli.
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32
Barolo DOCG
Zone: La Morra
Zone: La Morra
Barolo DOCG Gattera
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
La Morra
Vigneto Gattera
100% Nebbiolo
0.6 hectares
2,000 bottles
Langhe Nebbiolo DOC
Zone: Canale d’Alba
33
Piedmont
Azienda Agricola
The estate, now in the hands of Federico Grasso, was founded in 1927 and boasts two hectares of southwest facing Nebbiolo
vineyards in the fine La Morra crus of Luciani and Manzoni. Since Federico is a close friend and neighbour of Renato Corino, I
have had the opportunity and pleasure to know his wines and to follow in detail the estate’s progress over the years. Inclusion is
a way of life for the best winemakers in Piedmont and so Federico and his wines were often shown at our tastings. He virtually
evolved into this portfolio of which he has been part since 1993.
As is common with many fine crus of La Morra, those of Federico yield soft, deep and lush Barolo, the Manzoni having a
slightly more tannic attack. In youth his Baroli display in varying depths an undercurrent of sweet oak. As they age, they move
towards a fine, cedary and plum-plump middle-age. I would say they acquire the quiet, refined, leisurely fabric and presence of
a gentleman farmer.
In addition to Barolo Bricco Luciani and to Barolo Ciabot Manzoni (Barolo Bricco Manzoni since the 2010 vintage), the
volcanic Federico, in order to enhance the character of the different plots that make up his property, has released three more
Baroli (all made from vineyards standing in La Morra): a traditionally made wine (forty days of maceration with the skins and
ageing in large Slavonian oak casks) and two single vineyard versions from the Giachini and Plicotti crus. These efforts have
been rewarded by the Italian and the international press.
The estate also produces a seductive barrel-fermented Barbera from the Fontanile vineyard, as well as a traditional juicy Barbera,
a pretty and youthful Dolcetto and two versions of Nebbiolo.
Federico’s son Silvio, a trained agricultural technician, is now working full-time at the estate.
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34
Barolo DOCG
Bricco Manzoni
Zone: La Morra
Cru: Manzoni
Barolo DOCG
Giachini
Zone: La Morra
Cru: Giachini
Barolo DOCG Bricco Luciani
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Langhe Nebbiolo DOC
La Morra
Bricco Luciani
100% Nebbiolo
1.5 hectares
6,000 bottles
Zone: La Morra
35
Piedmont
Azienda Agricola
Enzo and Carlo Revello take over their father’s estate in 1990: their vineyards, once belonging to the local parish, boast parcels
in the crus of Giachini, Rocche dell’Annunziata, Conca dell’Annunziata and Gattera. In 1992 the first Barolo is bottled with no
cru designation, a last minute harvest under duress and with minimal equipment. Nevertheless, the wines show the gracefulness
of the best vineyards of La Morra. This is convincing and we sell the first wines. In 1993 some grapes still need to be sold
off in order to buy barrels and other equipment, but now Carlo and Enzo are prepared, and get rewarded with a remarkable
vintage. In 1994 for the first time the grapes from Giachini are singled out and vinified separately, resulting in the depth and
concentration typical of this cru. In 1995 the hail reduced the harvest dramatically in the Rocche vineyard, but in 1996 Revello’s
tiny parcel (just 3,000 square meters) is finally vinified on its own, immediately betraying the extreme floral notes so unique to
this Chambolle-like cru.
Well, when I met Carlo and Enzo Revello, their integrity was immediately palpable and it was clear that we really only had to
work out a few details.
Finally, Barolo Conca, first release 1997 vintage - and Barolo Gattera - first release 1999 vintage - were added. A Barolo “base”,
a Barbera “base”, a barrique aged Barbera, a Langhe Nebbiolo and a Dolcetto complete the range of wines.
The Giachini cru, although it is adjacent to the Rocche vineyard, yields wines with a very different character. Rocche
dell’Annunziata is undoubtedly the most important cru together with Brunate in La Morra. Conca is a cru in the lower part of
the Annunziata district of La Morra, yielding wines that are slightly austere and more similar to the wines of Serralunga and of
Castiglione Falletto. The beautiful cru of Gattera, dominated by a cedar of Lebanon that was planted at the end of 1800s, was
chosen by the brothers as the wines made from these vineyards, due to the soil, altitude and exposure, are suitable to be aged in
large oak. In fact the Revello’s Barolo Gattera rests for 24 months in 15 hectolitre Slavonian oak casks.
The cellar is modern and equipped with rotary fermentors and vats with temperature control: fermentation and maceration with
the skins is short, approximately four days for the Baroli. The wines rest in French oak barriques, except for Barolo Gattera as
mentioned before.
Viticulture here is sustainable, only sulphur and copper base products, no insecticides (sexual confusion is used against the
grape-fruit moth). Grass is left between the rows of vines and every other year it is mowed in autumn and worked into the soil
as green manure. The estate does not only have wines to offer: if you are travelling in the area, you can stay at the delightful “Agriturismo”.
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36
Barolo DOCG
Rocche dell’Annunziata
Zone: La Morra
Cru: Rocche dell’Annunziata
Barolo DOCG
Giachini
Zone: La Morra
Cru: Giachini
Barolo DOCG Conca
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Ciabot du Re
La Morra
Conca
100% Nebbiolo
1.1 hectares
4,800 bottles
Zone: La Morra
37
Azienda Agricola
Piedmont
This is a unique estate: it was established by the Marengo family in 1899 and now Marco manages it, very successfully, totally
on his own after his father Mario passed away in 2001.
The vineyard extension is just 6 hectares, but 1 hectare is in Le Brunate, a grand cru of La Morra (and one of the greatest crus of
the Langhe area) and 0.90 hectares are in Bricco delle Viole, one of the main crus of the town of Barolo. These two plots have
belonged to the Marengo family for three generations. The first vintage of Barolo to be bottled with Le Brunate on the label was
1974 while Barolo Bricco Viole was labelled as such starting from the 1997 vintage.
The vines of Le Brunate are 70-80 years old, the exposure is a lovely south/south-east, the altitude is 350 meters above sea level,
the soil is made up of marl, clay and silt.
Bricco delle Viole is so called because violets flower there before other zones, the exposure is also south/south-east, the altitude
is approximately 450 meters above sea level, the vines were planted at the beginning of the 1950s and the soil is clayey and
calcareous.
As his father before him, Marco has an extraordinary palate: it was and is quite an experience to taste the wines from the barrels,
first in the small and cluttered cellar in the town of La Morra and now in the new cellar that was recently built (the first vintage
to be vinified there was 2011).
The philosophy of Marco is to respect what the vineyards give him as much as possible, the work in the vines is more important
to him than the work in the cellar. In fact he follows natural agricultural practices: spontaneous grass cover is left on the aisles,
only sulphur and copper base products are sprayed, the vineyards are tended by hand (except for topping of the vines which
is done with a machine). In the cellar only SO2, and very little of it, is added to the wines, wild yeasts are responsible for the
alcoholic fermentation, no selected strains of bacteria are used to start up malolactic, the wines are not clarified nor filtered. The
wines age in French oak barriques of which only 15-20% are new so as to maintain the fruit.
Apart from the wonderful Barolo Brunate and the Barolo Bricco Viole, Marco also makes a Barolo “base” from two small plots
in La Morra, a Dolcetto and a Barbera aged for 15 months in French oak barriques. A very interesting Nebbiolo d’Alba is made
from an old vineyard in the Roero zone, the soil of which makes this wine fruity and extremely complex.
Since 2004 only 1,000 bottles of Barolo “Vecchie Vigne Brunate” are produced from two rows of over 80 year old vines and
starting from the 2009 vintage this wine will be bottled as a Barolo Riserva and released after six years from the harvest.
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38
Barolo DOCG
Bricco Viole
Zone: Barolo
Cru: Bricco delle Viole
Zone: Castiglion Falletto
Barolo DOCG Brunate
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC
Valmaggiore
La Morra
Le Brunate
100% Nebbiolo
1.5 hectares
6,000 bottles
Zone: Vezza d’Alba
Cru: Valmaggiore
39
Piedmont
Vigna Rionda, Vigna Marenca and Vigna Margheria are reputed to be the best in the township of Serralunga and this estate
produces single vineyard Baroli from plots owned in all three of these crus (which can be seen from the azienda’s terrace).
In the 1950s grapes and bulk wines were sold. In the following years small quantities of Barolo “base” were bottled. In 1993 the
Baroli Margheria and Marenca were produced followed by Barolo Vignarionda in 1997.
The wines from these three crus are typical of the great terroir of Serralunga: mineral and austere. Barolo Margheria, made from
50 year old vines, is the most classical. Barolo Marenca and Barolo Vignarionda are structured, complex, with a lot of muscle
and age longer. The Dolcetto is outstanding, also made from vines in Serralunga. It is rich and concentrated and reflects the
character of this zone through and through. A pleasant and well balanced Nebbiolo d’Alba (in which the telltale smooth tannins
of Serralunga are detectable) and a Barbera d’Alba are also made.
The Pira family works as a team with the principal aim of expressing the extraordinary character of their vineyards in the wines.
Gianpaolo is in charge of the cellar, which has been completely renovated. His winemaking is meticulous aided by spotless
modern equipment. The use of wood is very careful: large Slavonian oak casks for Barolo Margheria and Barolo “base” (made
from the vines of Margheria and Marenca standing in the lower part of the slope), 30% new (or even less depending on the
vintage) small French wood for Barolo Marenca and for Barolo Vignarionda.
Gianpaolo’s father, Luigi, and his brother Romolo tend the vineyards: natural viticulture is pursued, no chemicals are sprayed,
low grape yields ensure concentration in the wines.
The azienda Luigi Pira has been part of my portfolio since 1996 and it acquires new accolades and enthusiasts every year.
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40
Barolo DOCG
Margheria
Zone: Serralunga
Cru: Margheria
Barolo DOCG
Vignarionda
Zone: Serralunga
Cru: Vigna Rionda
Barolo DOCG Marenca
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Zone: Serralunga
Serralunga
Marenca
100% Nebbiolo
2.2 hectares
9,000-10,000 bottles
41
Azienda Agricola
Piedmont
The estate was established in 1952 by a family of viticulturists and it is named after the area where it is located. Franco and
Sergio Minuto, the present owners, are supported by Martina, Sergio’s daughter and a trained oenologist, and by Stefano,
Franco’s son, who has always worked at the estate.
The Barbaresco is made in three crus of radically different character, two in the commune of Barbaresco (Bric Balin and Cole)
and one in the commune of Neive (Basarin).
The area consists of small hills and of small valleys, the altitude varies between 240 and 300 meters above sea level. The area has
a very good ventilation so that springtime frosts are very rare, the climate is relatively mild, humidity does not stagnate (these
are the ideal conditions for good ripening of the clusters and to prevent diseases). But the character of the wines, according to
Sergio Minuto, is influenced not so much by this extremely favourable microclimate but rather by the type of soils.
The origin of the soils in Barbaresco (where the Bric Balin and Cole crus are located) is much more ancient than the origin of
the soils in Neive (where the Basarin vineyard stands) which are more recent and have a much higher percentage of sand. The
Barbaresco “Basarin” can be considered the wine that is the easiest to drink when released. The wines made from the other two
vineyards are more “austere” and “closed” at first and they need a longer time to open up and to express themselves, but when
they do you will be captured for life!
These Barbareschi age extremely well: a 1990 Barbaresco Basarin was recently opened together with a 1971 Barbaresco Cole
(40 years’ old!) and both were still fabulous!
At the estate, the agronomical practices of the last 20 years, in particular fruit thinning and topping of the vines, make it possible
to obtain an even quality of the wines. In fact, when in the past topping was not carried out, the canopy of the vines could
develop up to three meters (the shoots of Nebbiolo can grow up to 5-6 meters). With topping the canopy is two meters high at the
most and the vines are consequently “in balance” (balance is achieved when vegetative growth and fruit load are in equilibrium)
and they become resistant to diseases and insect attacks.
The vinification of the Barbareschi made from the three crus is the same: fermentation and maceration with the skins in horizontal
fermentation vats (equipped with an internal agitator and with temperature control) for 6-7 days at 30 degrees Celsius. The wine
is then racked off into stainless steel vats where the alcoholic fermentation is completed. Finally the wine matures in French oak
barriques (228 litres capacity, medium toasting, 70-80% new) for 18 months. Finishing in the bottle is 9-10 months minimum.
Finally, a remarkable barrel fermented Chardonnay, a “base” Chardonnay and small quantities of very fine Dolcetto and Nebbiolo
are made.
In short, under Franco and Sergio Minuto, the Moccagatta estate has gained for itself a spot among the finest producers in
Piedmont. Unfortunately, as seems to be the rule, here too great quality goes hand in hand with small quantities.
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42
Barbaresco DOCG
Cole
Zone: Barbaresco
Cru: Cole
Barbaresco DOCG
Basarin
Zone: Neive
Barbaresco DOCG Bric Balin
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Barbaresco
Muncagöta
100% Nebbiolo
4 hectares
20,000 bottles
Langhe Chardonnay DOC
Buschet
Zone: Barbaresco
Cru: Buschet
43
Piedmont
Azienda Agricola
Angelo was a unique and positive person, he was fun, enthusiastic, generous and with a young spirit. He was also a perfectionist
and had an exceptional palate which made him a wonderful viticulturist and winemaker. It was always a pleasure to spend time
with him at dinners, tasting or at fairs. After his recent and tragic death we are all going to miss him very much!
Wine has been bottled at this estate for three generations by the Rocca family and now Angelo ‘s son in law Carlo and his three
daughters Paola, Monica and Daniela continue making very fine red and white wines.
Two vineyards contribute to the production of the Nebbiolo grapes that go into the making of the lovely Barbaresco: Vigna
Loreto (within the larger cru of Ovello) and Ronchi, both remarkable crus of the appellation. The vines are 46-60 years old in
Ronchi and 40 years old in Loreto and this, together with very strict vineyard management, results in a very low grape yield,
and in 40 hectolitres of wine per hectare at the most. Consequently the concentration of the wines is remarkable – an engaging
delight to the palate and a guarantee of longevity that many a Barbaresco no longer possess.
A Barbaresco “base” and a Moscato d’Asti are made from vineyards in S. Rocco Seno d’Elvio purchased from Carlo. The
Barbaresco is produced with grapes from 10 year old vines planted in the vineyard of Montersino with full southern exposure
and at 350 meters above sea level.
The estate also offers small quantities of fruity Dolcetto and Barbera and a unique barrel fermented, stout bodied, rich still zesty
flavoured white wine from the Cortese grape, a fresh and fruity Chardonnay with interesting mineral notes and a pleasant red
“Vino da Tavola” (a blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cabernet Franc) called “Rosso di Rocca”.
The vineyard management of the Rocca family is meticulous, but wait till you see the harvest! Starting at the beginning of
August the vineyards are carefully checked and all clusters which do not reach perfection are eliminated. The white varietals
– in this case Cortese, Chardonnay and Moscato – are only harvested in the morning (the harvest of Moscato starts as early as
5 a.m.) and are placed in crates of a capacity of 300 kgs over a layer of dry ice. The ice evaporates, keeps the grapes cool and
intact (there is no liquid on the bottom of the crates) and dangerous oxydations are avoided. A portable freezer for the supply of
the ice follows the workers in the vineyards. The crates are then immediately taken to the cellar where the clusters are pressed
in very modern pneumatic presses. The red varietals follow the same procedure, without the dry ice, and are only harvested in
the morning on particularly warm days.
Integrated insect and disease control has been followed here for the last 20 years: a public body periodically checks the vine
leaves and the wine for pesticide residues and sulphur and copper base products are prevalent. Minimum quantities of organic
fertilizer are spread and grass is left on the aisles between the rows of vines.
The cellar is of a very modern design and equipped with rotary fermentors and steel vats with temperature control. Small oak
has been gradually eliminated and the reds mature in 20 hectolitre German and Austrian oak casks. These are all exceptional
wines that not only reflect the unique terroir they stem from, but also the passion of this talented family as aknowledged by the
Italian and international specialised press.
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44
Barbaresco DOCG
Ovello Vigna Loreto
Zone: Barbaresco
Cru: Ovello Vigna Loreto
Barbaresco DOCG
Zone: Barbaresco
Cru: Montersino
Barbaresco DOCG Ronchi
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Barbaresco
Ronchi
100% Nebbiolo
4 hectares
20,000 bottles
Piemonte DOC
Cortese La Rocca
Zone: Barbaresco, Ovello
Varietal: 100% Cortese
45
Piedmont
Azienda Agricola
The Malabaila family, originally from Asti, were merchants and bankers: in 1349 Guidetto Malabaila lent large sums to Pope
Clemente VI when he was imprisoned in Avignon. The family also has a very old tradition in viticulture and wine making, as
shown in a document stating the purchase of land for the production of wine and dating back to 1362. This document refers to
Vigna del Castelletto from which Roero Castelletto, the top wine of the range, is made today. 1623 is the date of nine letters
where Amedeo of Savoy requests wines. In the 1900s Count Gerardo dal Pozzo Malabaila started bottling wine.
In the 1980s Corradino dal Pozzo Carrega Malabaila, the grandson of Gerardo, together with the oenologist and agronomist
Valerio Alfredo Falletti started ageing the wines and pursuing high quality. The grapes were vinified in the cellars of the
impressive castle of the estate - wine bottles dating back to 1200 were found there. In 1990 a new cellar, following an avant
guarde project, was built in Cascina Pradvaj, the present headquarters. An artificial hill was made over the cellar in order to
keep the temperature inside even.
The estate is now managed by Costanza Carrega Malabaila, wife of Corradino after he passed away two years ago, and her
daughter Lucrezia together with Valerio Falletti whose father also worked at Malabaila.
Sustainable viticulture is followed in the 22 hectares of vineyard, the soil of which is typical of the Roero, sandy-marly with
many fossils. Clones of Arneis, Nebbiolo and Barbera are multiplied in an old vineyard.
Great attention is given to tradition, but Costanza and Valerio do not want this to be a limitation: the vinification cellar is
extremely modern and the wines rest in French oak barriques, tonneaux and casks.
The total production is 100,000 bottles and the range consists in Roero DOCG, Roero Arneis DOCG (also in a “passito version”),
Barbera d’Alba DOC, Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC and Birbèt (a biotype of Brachetto typical of the Roero, birbante meaning “naughty”
in Italian) a slightly sparkling and sweet wine. All the wines are extremely elegant, the Roero with pleasant cherry, rose and
violet notes, the Roero Arneis delicate and complex. Birbet is certainly worth a try, a truly feminine wine!
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46
Roero DOCG
Bric Volta
Cru: Bric Volta
Roero Arneis DOCG
Pradvaj
Cru: Pradvaj
Varietal: 100% Arneis
Roero Riserva DOCG Castelletto
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Canale d’Alba
Castelletto
100% Nebbiolo
3.49 hectares
6,000 bottles
Mezzavilla
47
Azienda Agricola
Piedmont
La Morandina’s terroir is superlative and incredibly idiosyncratic. The Moscato grape, by nature most aromatic, is exalted by
the calcareous soil on which the 15 hectares of vineyard stand.
The Morando brothers’ Moscato is perfection: it has the richness that thoroughly satisfies coupled to a fragrant freshness that
prevents cloying; and the bouquet transcends Moscato with unique nuances of sage and mint.
In this estate strict organic practices have been utilized for over 30 years, in fact chemical pesticides and fertilizers are banned
in favour of sulphur and copper base products, manure and compost. Leguminous plants are sown on the aisles between the rows
of vines and biological control is normally used against some kinds of pests. Furthermore, Giulio and Paolo Morando closely
collaborate with the University of Turin, where their uncle Albino has taught viticulture for many years, and a considerable
amount of research work is carried out at La Morandina.
The estate offers two wonderful Barbera d’Asti, Barbera Varmat and Barbera Zucchetto, both issuing from very old vines: husky
and riddled with spice, these are pure examples of this rich soil, originating from the Miocene Epoch during which the Alps
continued rising from the sea (fossilized shells can be found in the ground). The vines of the Varmat cru are prephylloxera and
are 100-120 years old.
Giulio and Paolo also make a regular Barbera d’Asti and a stunning single vineyard Barbaresco, “Bricco Spessa” (a cru in the
township of Neive), made from 70-80 year old vines, mainly Nebbiolo Michet. This Barbaresco, due to the age of the vines and
to the biotype of Nebbiolo, can be considered an “austere” wine, with an intense aroma and a great structure that makes it suitable
for long ageing.
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48
Barbera d’Asti DOCG
Zucchetto
Zone: Montegrosso d’Asti, Costigliole
Cru: Zucchetto
Barbera d’Asti DOCG
Varmat
Zone: Montegrosso d’Asti,
Cru: Varmat
Moscato d’Asti DOCG
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Castiglione Tinella
Bricco Francia
100% Moscato
15 hectares
90,000 bottles
Barbaresco DOCG
Bricco Spessa
Zone: Neive
Cru: Bricco Spessa
49
Azienda Agricola
Piedmont
Mario Boschis manages this lovely estate in Dogliani (province of Cuneo) supported by his two sons Paolo and Marco. This
Azienda is completely family run; there are no other employees. They have no designs or aspirations to do anything but remain
a small and very personal property.
Dolcetto di Dogliani has always been acknowledged as the finest expression of the varietal. The appellation rises all the way up
to 550 meters above sea level, a full 200-300 meters higher than the Dolcetto plantings in the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations.
The altitude powerfully enhances the bouquet endowing the Dogliani Dolcetti with a fragrance like no other. Moreover, these
wines in no way suffer that lack of substance or structure so common with wines made from high altitude fruit because, along
with altitude, this variety prefers an even climate and mainly calcareous soil and all these conditions are found here. On the
contrary, the Dolcetti of Dogliani are far more richly complex and age worthy than their lowland siblings. The advantages of
the zone are amplified for Boschis’ vineyards, they rest at the appellation’s highest elevations, with excellent exposures and a
prevalence of plantings from the 1940s and 50s.
The delightful labels of the wines are watercolours and engravings of Teresita Terreno, a local artist. Each represents distinctive
seasonal features of this area, informing us when the wines will be released and giving us hints of their natures. For example
there are strawberries on the label of Dogliani Pianezzo as it is the first wine of the range to be released on the market at
springtime. There is an easy, fine vinosity and floral freshness in this Dolcetto, reminiscent of a bowl full of mixed red fruit. The
label of Dogliani Superiore San Martino has an autumnal scene, harmonious and languishing in the year’s remaining warmth.
Dogliani Superiore Vigna Prey shows an austere hazy winter’s day frozen in snow. The label of Dogliani Superiore Vigna del
Ciliegio is designed, instead, by a close friend: this is the only Dolcetto which matures in wood (the others mature in steel), so
that the Boschis family decided that the label should also be different from the other ones.
The Boschis family also makes a Barbera d’Alba, a Langhe Barbera, a Langhe Freisa, a Piemonte Grignolino and a Langhe
Sauvignon Blanc. Hazelnuts are also grown on the clayiest soils. Fodder is produced for feeding 10 head of “Piemontese” cattle,
known for its delicious meat. The local dish “carne cruda” is nothing more than a simple tartar, but with this beef it is something
truly exquisite. Francesco, Mario’s father, used to work the vineyards with oxen of this breed and their manure is still used as
fertilizer. There are also some beehives which are a passion of Marco’s. As bees are very sensitive to pollution, environmental
friendly practices are strictly followed throughout the whole estate.
Mario’s two sons work full-time at the estate: Paolo is an oenological technician and is more experienced in the cellar, Marco is
an excellent viticulturist. They are both extremely dedicated and follow the philosophy of their father and grandfather making
improvements at the same time. Just as an example of their passion, when a new Dolcetto vineyard is planted, they carry out
selection massale on a prephylloxera vineyard from the late 1800s (a practice learned from their grandfather Francesco). Thus,
producing their own rooted cuttings, they are there their own nursery. This particular biotype of Dolcetto has a red stem, a low
yield and small berries with a thick skin.
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50
Dogliani Superiore DOCG
Vigna dei Prey
Zone: Roddino d’Alba
Cru: Vigna dei Prey
Dogliani DOCG
Pianezzo
Zone: Dogliani/Pianezzo
Cru: Pianezzo
Dogliani Superiore DOCG Sorì San Martino
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Dogliani
Sorì San Martino
100% Dolcetto
2 hectares
6,500 bottles
Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC
Vigna Le Masserie
Zone: Roddino d’Alba
Cru: Vigna Le Masserie
51
Azienda Agricola
Piedmont
Produced on a very poor calcareous soil from the Cortese varietal, in a region otherwise almost exclusively devoted to red wine,
Gavi is by definition the fine white wine of Piemonte.
Stefano Massone has a small estate, ten hectares of which produce Cortese grapes, and he runs it together with his cousin Andrea.
Two wines are produced from the crus of Masera and San Cristoforo: the vineyards stand on a plateau at 250 meters above
sea level and the soil is calcarous and poor, ideal for the Cortese varietal. These two wines are different due to the period
of harvest (the grapes of San Cristoforo are picked later) and due to the vinification, which is shorter for the Masera after a
cold maceration with the skins in order to preserve the aromatics. The San Cristoforo rests for a longer time on the lees, it is
therefore more structured and the aromatics develop slower. The work in the vineyard is extremely important for this type of
wine, its vinification is simple. In fact viticulture here is meticulous and natural. There are no problems due to insects so that no
insecticides are sprayed, grass is left on the aisles between the rows of vines. Where needed, lime is worked in the soil to make
it less acid and to consequently lower the acidity in the grapes (the vines stop vegetating when the acidity of the soil is too high,
when the acidity is lower they start vegetating again and the sugar/acidity balance in the berries is favoured).
Here we have a model estate that offers a small amount of exceptionally fine Gavi, a crisp, lean and steely wine with piquantly
high acidity and sharply engaging bouquet.
Ideal as an aperitif, this Gavi is perfectly suited for fish, light soups and hors d’oeuvres.
◊
Camporosso, named after its red clayey soils, was purchased by Stefano and Andrea Massone in 1990, but the first harvest was
in 2000. The 15 hectares of vineyards, all planted with Cortese grapes and within the Gavi appellation, stand at 300-350 meters
above sea level on a ridge with a breathtaking view.
The type of soil, part red clay and part limestone, makes the production naturally low and enhances the aromatics in the wines.
Vinification and bottling take place at the Massone winery. Although the wine of Camporosso is different from the Masera and
from the San Cristoforo, you will recognize the touch of Andrea and Stefano in this intense and fruity Gavi.
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52
Gavi DOCG
San Cristoforo
Zone: S. Cristoforo
Cru: S. Cristoforo
Gavi DOCG
Camporosso
Zone: Francavilla Bisio
Gavi DOCG Masera
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Capriata d’Orba
Masera
100% Cortese
5 hectares
25,000 bottles
53
TUSCANY
Tuscany vies with Piedmont for the laurels of the best red wine region of Italy. Best known for its Chianti, Tuscany boasts a
complex spectrum of red wines ranging from Brunello di Montalcino - one of the world’s most engaging and longest lived wines
- to excellent everyday wines from lesser known appellations which will reward the consumer with fine quality at very affordable
prices.
Common to all red wines of Tuscany is the ubiquitous Sangiovese varietal. As will be clarified by the estate descriptions that
follow, the Sangiovese grape is present in all red wines in percentages running from 65% to 100%. This remarkable and versatile
varietal will yield - according to the area, appellation, cru and exposure in which it is grown, and to the percentages in which it
is used along with other varietals - an array of stunningly diverse fine wines. An ample oenological portfolio that ranges from
wines of great elegance and aristocratic suppleness, to wines of rich gracefulness and engratiating bouquets - each with specific
characteristics for which one may successfully search. When in the 60’s mass replanting was encouraged and subsidized, no
effort was made at the time towards clonal selection. Luckily, from the 1990s onwards, many high quality clonal selections
have been planted throughout the region. The estates which I represent are in the forefront of clonal experimentation, their wines
recapturing the wealth of flavours and intensity of the past with the added know-how of modern winemaking.
Although Tuscany as a whole has remarkable soils and climates which allow for decent wine to be made almost anywhere
below prohibitive altitudes, just decent wine simply leaves me rather unsatisfied. To find, make and release great wines is, and
always has been, my goal. As such the great crus and climates of Tuscany are of the essence, for these are the small and rare
geophysical loci which nature has gifted with the choicest soils and microclimates with respect to grape growing. Italy has never
given its crus a formal status of recognition, but winemakers and growers alike know them only too well: they are too important
in winemaking to be neglected. Finally, as crucial as the clones and the crus is the actual estate which produces the wines - for
the experience, will and imagination of the winemaker are what will exalt the superior qualities of the great raw material into
its finest expression: the great wine.
At the beginning of the 1960s and 1970s, when the DOC and DOCG classifications were established, crop allowances were
permitted to be too high and enforced varietal standardization had virtually destroyed nearly one hundred autochthonous
varieties that abounded less than a century ago. Today the production regulations have been revised and, although foreign
varietals including international grapes are allowed in the blends, many estates, and the ones which are part of our portfolio in
particular, are experimenting with and recovering autochthonous varietals and clones from old vineyards such as Foglia Tonda,
Pugnitello, Canaiolo Nero, Colorino, Ciliegiolo and many others.
Our aim has always been and is to really and fearlessly express terroir in the multifaceted panorama of Tuscany. For example,
what can Sangiovese do in a few crus of Carmignano or of Montepulciano? And believe me, it is unspeakably exciting, and it
shoulders you with pride and awe when, sipping a wine from a barrel, along with the novel flavours you feel a little, but precious
drop of wine truth is being re-established.
In the following section you will find estates described which combine the best grapes, the best crus and the finest winemakers of
Tuscany - in essence, the very special and unique creations of one of the outstanding wine regions of the world.
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54
Sangiovese
Canaiolo Nero
Colorino
Vernaccia
Trebbiano
55
Azienda Agricola
Tuscany
Andrea Cortonesi, owner of Uccelliera, is a person who could be described as “salt of the earth”: the only son of a farming
family, he has worked in the fields since he was a teenager helping his father.
Andrea is not only an extremely talented winemaker, but he is also a fine entrepreneur who managed to purchase in 1986,
entirely thanks to his own devices, the initial four hectares of the estate, consisting of an ancient homestead and half a hectare
of old vineyards. He immediately planted two hectares of vines and in 1987 the first half hectare for the production of Brunello
was planted. The name Uccelliera, meaning aviary in Italian, probably dates back to the Middle Ages when falcons where raised
in this specific area. In the following years more vineyards, standing in different positions in respect to the homestead, were
added so to reach the present extension of 6 hectares.
To produce Brunello and Rosso by blending vineyards with different exposures and soils is a specific choice so that the character
of each vintage and of the terroir can be expressed following a “mimimum handling” philosophy. This is pursued through natural
vineyard management, the vines are sprayed only with copper and sulphur based products, the use of insecticides is very rare, the
vineyards are tilled so no weedkillers are necessary. Depending on the age of the vines, vineyard density is 3,000-5,000 plants
per hectare. The work in the vineyards, carried out entirely by hand, is focussed on obtaining perfectly balanced vines that yield
fully ripe and flawless clusters.
Andrea’s efforts continue in the cellar (a new cellar has been added to the old one and they are both built underground) where the
wines rest at a constant and natural temperature. At present Uccelliera is without any doubt one of the top estates of Montalcino,
the Brunello and Rosso are complex, intense, extemely supple and drinkable. An IGT/proprietary wine, Rapace, is also produced
and a new release is a selection of Sangiovese, aged in French oak (from ultracentenarian trees) and exclusively bottled in
magnums. The volcanic owner is not only a vigneron, he is also on the board of institutions for the management of the territory
of Montalcino and he has recently opened a very good restaurant near the lovely Piazza il Campo of Siena: the high level cuisine
of the creative chef can be considered part of the family’s tradition as Andrea’s mother is a wonderful cook and to have lunch
at the estate is an unforgettable experience!
◊
In 2006 Andrea started a new project, together with other producers of the area friends of his, with the aim of
enhancing the different aspects of the extraordinary terroir of Montalcino, and a Rosso and a Brunello are bottled
under the brand-name of “Voliero”. The vineyards stand at an altitude of 250-450 meters above sea level with
various exposures and the vines are between 10 and 20 years old. These wines are the expression of this terroir
and show finesse rather than complexity. The style is traditional: the wine rests in large Slavonian and French oak
casks , the Brunello for 30 months and the Rosso for four months. The wines are vinified at the estates of the friends
of Andrea’s while bottling takes place at Uccelliera. The touch of Andrea is unmistakable in these two lovely
wines!
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56
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
Riserva
Zone: Montalcino
Varietal: 100% Sangiovese
Vineyard Ext.: selection over 1 hectare
(older vines)
Rosso di Montalcino DOC
Zone: Montalcino
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montalcino
100% Sangiovese
6 hectares
20,000-22,000 bottles
Toscana IGT Rapace
Zone: Montalcino
Varietals: 70% Sangiovese,
10% Cabernet, 20% Merlot
57
Azienda Agricola
Tuscany
Roberto Giannelli, who has a law degree and used to work in real estate, has had a passion for wine ever since he was a child.
At the end of 2002 he came into contact with the former owners (who owned the estate since 1972) through his wife and, after
a long negotiation, he bought Azienda San Filippo in 2003.
The four vineyards – La Storta, Le Raffiche, Le Lucére and La Smarrita – stand in the zone of Cerbaiona and all have an
excellent exposure. This zone is particularly cool, with a good night-day temperature range, making it particularly suitable for
growing Sangiovese and the wines tend towards elegance and finesse rather than power.
A great amount of work has been carried out since 2003: the management of the vineyards has been considerably improved, a
new vinification and ageing cellar was built and all the small and large oak barrels along with the fermentation vessels and the
cooling/heating equipment have been gradually renewed.
Roberto’s philosophy is to make the wine “in the vineyard”. All fertilizers, both organic and chemical, have been totally
eliminated, the vines are to “work” on their own without extra aid. With the support of Patrizio Gasparinetti, a very talented
agronomist, natural viticulture is pursued. A metereological station has been placed on the estate in order to schedule antiparasitic
treatments, strictly sulphur and copper based, only when necessary. Where the vigour of the vines has to be kept in check, grass
is left on every other aisle (the space between the rows of vines). Although this can be risky in some vintages due to the weather,
the grapes are harvested only when phenolic and aromatic ripening is complete.
Brunello matures in barriques toasted to a light level for the first 12 months and for a further 14 months in large oak casks.
When one tastes the wines of San Filippo one can only agree with the oenologist Paolo Caciorgna who describes them in two
words: equilibrium and elegance!
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58
Riserva Le Lucére
Zone: Montalcino
Cru: Le Lucére
Lo Scorno
Zone: Montalcino
Cru: Lo Scorno
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Le Lucére
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montalcino
Le Lucére
100% Sangiovese
3 hectares
18,000 bottles
Sant’Antimo DOC
Staffato
Zone: Montalcino
Varietals: 80% Merlot,
20% Syrah
59
Tuscany
My first encounter with Brizio wines was at the end of an exhaustingly long day of bopping around Montalcino tasting big fat
Brunelli. The devious devil of dropdead drearyness was whispering to me how easy it would be to call and cancel, after all,
with my mojo running on empty and a seriously diminished interest therefore, what kind of a tasting would it be and wouldn’t
it be unfair to judge this producer in my lethargic condition? In my other ear, the archangel of earnest enterprise blasted and
chastised me for my laziness, shaming and rallying me into showing up. Taking the weight off my feet in Brizio’s office I sighed
and mechanically dragged the first glass across the table and hefted up to my mouth. Whoa! It was all vibrancy and it energized
me immediately. Not knowing, I asked what I was tasting. The 2003. Really? Well, that was remarkable given how most 2003
Brunelli were born tired and overcooked (much like I was feeling 30 seconds before). Then I learned it wasn’t even the Brunello,
it was the Rosso di Montalcino 2003! It was now beyond wanting to taste Brizio wines, I needed to taste them and five vintages
of Brunello later this was clear: Brizio Brunello is unrivalled for elegance and vigor. Is phat!
Roberto Bellini, from a northern Italian family of agricultural entrepreneurs, purchased Azienda Agricola Chiesa di Santa
Restituta in the 1970s and used to also manage the vineyards of Podere Brizio. Chiesa di Santa Restituta was then sold to Angelo
Gaja in 1996. Mr Bellini bought 50% of Podere Brizio and established a partnership with the Cannoni-Mazzi family who had
owned the estate since 1960. A modern and well equipped vinification and ageing cellar of an extension of 1,000 square meters
was finished in 2002: the ageing section is built underground in order to have an even temperature all year round, all the stainless
steel vats are equipped with temperature control and automatic devices to punch down the cap, the presses are pneumatic. Small
and large oak casks are of French Allier oak, barriques and tonneux are renewed every three years.
The total vineyard extension is 8.8 hectares of which 6.8 hectares registered for the production of Brunello, 1 hectare registered
for the production of Rosso and 1 hectare registered for the production of Sant’Antimo. Further 3 hectares of Sangiovese
vineyards (all registered for the production of Brunello) will be planted in 2015.
The excellent south-west exposure, the ideal type of soil and climate (in fact the area is protected from hail and storms by Monte
Amiata a mountain south east of Montalcino and 1,740 meters high) make the zone of Santa Restituta, where the vineyards of
Podere Brizio stand, one of the best areas of Montalcino.
The clones of Sangiovese were selected from the oldest vines of Podere Brizio when the vineyards were replanted (the vineyards
of Brunello are 30, 20 and 11 years old, while the vineyards of Rosso are ten years old). Yields are well below what the
appellation allows. Only the best clusters are chosen for the wines.
The estate is in the first year of the conversion phase to be certified organic.
In 2013 Podere Brizio changed its ownership and is now part of IAG Toscana Srl, together with Fattoria Dievole in
Chianti Classico.
The well known and talented oenologist Alberto Antonini now supervises all the phases of winemaking, while the agronomist
Lorenzo Bernini supervises the work in the vineyards.
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60
Riserva
Zone: Montalcino
Zone: Montalcino
Colli Toscana Centrale IGT
Podere Brizio
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montalcino
100% Sangiovese
6.8 hectares
20,000 bottles
Type of Viticulture: in the conversion phase to
Certified Organic
Zone: Montalcino
10% Cabernet Sauvignon
61
Azienda Agricola Rasa 1°
Tuscany
La Serena is a family run estate, with Andrea Mantengoli at the helm since 1997. The estate was established in 1934 and even
though wine has always been made, the first Brunello di Montalcino was produced in 1988.
New vineyards were purchased up to 1989, for a total of 8.5 hectares, in the south-east zone of Montalcino.
This estate is committed to eco-friendly practices and it will be certified organic starting from the 2013 vintage: the cellar,
designed by Andrea’s twin brother Marcello who is an architect, is completely insulated with cork panels and a geothermal
system keeps the inner temperature cool in the summer (at approximately 20 degrees Celsius) and warm in the winter (never
below 14 degrees Celsius). The cellar is built on a slope and a network of pipes runs through the whole building ending in two
larger pipes that run underground for about 300 meters and are connected with the exterior on the lower part of the slope. The
air enters the two large pipes (and is consequently warmed up in the winter and cooled down in the summer), flows through
the whole network and exits the cellar through a series of chimneys. Hot water, used to clean the oak casks and the cellar, is
produced by solar panels. When needed, sodium bicarbonate (also known as baking soda) is added to clean the fermentation
vessels.
One can find the same environmentally conscious approach in the vineyard: Andrea’s philosophy is to plant vineyards where
they have always been grown, to utilise the right clones and rootstocks and to make sure that the vines are “balanced” (meaning
when fruit production is in proportion to the total leaf surface of the vine). Light toppings, light thinning out of the clusters are
carried out, specific types of grasses are sown on every other aisle: in this way the vines are naturally protected against diseases
and pests and the yield is kept very low.
These extremely accurate vineyard practices, together with the soil type (here the soils are quite mixed, being clayey, sandy,
tufaceous and marly) and modern equipment in the cellar, result in wines that blend power and finesse with a slight austerity
and the hard work of the Mantengoli family has certainly been rewarded by the international press!
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62
Riserva Gemini
Zone: Montalcino
Zone: Montalcino
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montalcino
100% Sangiovese
7 hectares
25,000 bottles
63
Tuscany
Loredana Tanganelli and Antonio Brandi are a young couple of Montalcino who are now managing Scopetone, as Angela
Abbarchi decided to retire after her husband passed away.
The vineyard extension is now 2.5 hectares as 1.5 hectares, belonging to Loredana, have been added to the vineyards of the
estate.
Loredana is a passionate beekeeper and Antonio is a passionate viticulturist (he has previously worked for a local azienda),
together they decided to embark on this project supported by the well known and talented oenologist Maurizio Castelli and by
the agronomist Luca Felicioni.
The brand of the estate has been maintained so that the three wines – Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino and a Toscana
IGT (also 100% Sangiovese and made from a vineyard in the zone of Montecucco, Tuscan Maremma) – have kept the label of
Scopetone. Vinification takes place in the old stone cellar of the estate and the wines, except for the IGT that does not see wood,
rest in 33 hectolitre large Slavonian oak casks.
Natural viticulture is pursued, as chemicals of any kind would damage the bees, leguminous plants are sown on the aisles
between the rows of vines and worked into the soil as green manure.
The Brunello 2007 and the Brunello 2008 we offer are the wines made when Angela Abbarchi was still at the helm, while the
Brunello 2009 is the offspring of Loredana and of Antonio and we can assure you that you will not be disappointed!
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64
Zone: Collina di Montalcino
Vineyard Ext: 0.3 hectares
Sangiovese di Toscana IGT
Zone: Montecucco
Vineyard Ext: 1.5 hectares
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Collina di Montalcino
100% Sangiovese
0.8 hectares
4,400 bottles
65
Azienda Agricola
Tuscany
“Le Potazzine” (meaning “chickadee” in the local dialect, small very lively birds with coloured plumage) is the nickname given
by the mother of Gigliola Gorelli (who owns the estate together with her husband Giuseppe who is an oenologist) to her two
granddaughters, Viola and Sofia. The estate was established in 1993, the year when Viola was born. Giuseppe also consults for
other wineries in the area.
The vineyards extend for 5 hectares, all registered for the production of Brunello, and only Sangiovese is grown: 3.50 hectares
are close to the newly built cellars and homestead and 1.50 hectares are nearby in the area of S. Angelo in Colle. The area is high
and airy so that there is little disease contamination. Therefore, no chemical products are sprayed, only copper and sulphur, and
no weedkillers are utilised. The vineyard near the homestead is endowed with a high water table, consequently the vines do not
suffer from hydric stress even in extremely hot summers. The vineyards are worked entirely by hand, the harvest is manual. The
grape yield never exceeds 6 tons per hectare.
Giuseppe believes in traditional and natural vinification: fermentation and maceration with the skins is long (approximately 1
month) with indigenous yeasts and without temperature control. The wines rest in traditional Slavonian oak casks of a capacity
of 30-50 hectolitres: the Brunello for 40 months, the Rosso (that could be considered the “younger brother” of Brunello) for
approximately 10 months and the Brunello Riserva, made only in exceptional vintages, for 50-60 months. The Brunello is not
filtered before being bottled in order to keep its aromatics intact. Following the minimum handling principle, bottling is carried
out by free fall without the use of pumps.
All this results in wines that are extremely pleasant to drink, with a great structure, with supple and elegant tannins and with a
perfect balance.
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66
Riserva
Zone: Montalcino
Cru: Le Prata, La Torre
Zone: Montalcino
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montalcino
Le Prata, La Torre
100% Sangiovese
4.6 hectares
17,000 bottles
Toscana Sangiovese IGT
Le Potazzine
Zone: Montalcino
67
Tuscany
Gianni Brunelli, a man of many interests, established “Osteria Le Logge” in Siena (which has become one of the top restaurants
of the city). In 1987 Gianni returned to Montalcino and purchased Le Chiuse di Sotto, an estate that had belonged to his father
Dino, with two hectares of vineyards standing at 200 meters above sea level in the northern part of the area. In 1989 Sangiovese
for the production of Brunello and of Rosso started being grown again. The vines of a small plot are still the original ones
planted by Dino in 1947.
The “Podernovone” estate was subsequently purchased. The property has a magnificent view on Monte Amiata and it is endowed
with 4.5 hectares standing at 350 meters above sea level, mainly Sangiovese with a small percentage of Merlot (that goes into
the blend of the IGT/proprietary wine “Amor Costante”). The soil of Podernovone, made up of calcareous-marly schists, reflects
light and heat thus favouring the ripening of the grapes. Four different vineyards stand on this property: “Olmo”, “Oliva”,
“Quercia” and “Gelso”.
The different climate of the two properties (fresh and airy at Le Chiuse di Sotto with a lot of rain in the summer and warmer and
ventilated at Podernovone) results in complex and elegant wines, as they are made from the vineyards of both estates.
After Gianni passed away in 2008, his wife Laura, who already used to work with him at the estates and at the restaurant,
takes care of the production and of the marketing of the wines. Paolo Vagaggini, one of the major experts of Sangiovese, is
the winemaker. The vineyards are followed directly by Laura Brunelli with the supervision of an agronomist, a friend of hers.
Sustainable viticulture is pursued, no weed killers are used, grass cover is left on the aisles between the rows of vines where
vigour must be kept in check, the training system is strictly cordon spur which also makes the grape yield lower. Manual labour
reaches 500 hours a year for each hectare of vineyard. Clusters are carefully selected at harvest and placed into small crates.
The Brunello and the Brunello Riserva are classic and traditional: long maceration on the skins (20-25 days) in steel, malolactic
in steel, maturation in large 30-35 hectolitre Slavonian oak casks. These wines improve after a few years in the bottle. The Rosso
is fresh with a well preserved fruit. It is very pleasant and drinkable when young, but also after four or five years in the bottle.
Only 2,000 bottles of the IGT/proprietary wine “Amor Costante”, a blend of 20% Merlot and 80% Sangiovese, are released each
year. This is an extremely enjoyable and fresh wine with red fruit and wild berry tones.
The estate also produces an excellent olive oil.
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68
Riserva
Zone: Montalcino
Cru: Podernovone, Canalicchio
Zone: Montalcino
Cru: Podernovone, Canalicchio
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montalcino
Podernovone, Canalicchio
100% Sangiovese
4.3 hectares
6,000 bottles
Toscana Rosso IGT
Amor Costante
Zone: Montalcino
Cru: Podernovone
Varietals: 80% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot
69
Tuscany
Podere Il Palazzino, owned by Alessandro and Andrea Sderci, is located in Monti in Chianti, 20 km northeast of Siena, in the
southern part of Chianti near Gaiole. The estate is part of a network of farms and of country residences built or restored in the
eighteenth century during the land reform enacted by Leopold Hapsburg-Lorraine, Grand Duke of Tuscany.
The Sderci family became owners of the estate in the mid nineteenth century. But wine started being produced and sold more
recently, at the beginning of the 1970s, when Alessandro and Andrea took over the management. The first vineyards were
planted then, replacing the earlier system of interspersing grapevines with olive trees and planting crops on the aisles between
the rows of trees and vines. As the original cellar was not large enough, a new underground cellar was built in 1996 under the
garden of the homestead.
Il Palazzino is an estate with a traditional style, but with an organic approach to viticulture. Also the wines are traditional with
an organic approach. This traditional style is reflected in the flag wine, Chianti Classico Grosso Sanese, which started being
made as a “supertuscan”, but that was then produced as a Chianti Classico. “Our job is to make Chianti Classico” Alessandro
Sderci tells us.
Edoardo, Alessandro’s son, works in the vineyards and Valentina, his daughter, works in the office together with Claudia, the
daughter of Andrea.
Natural viticulture has been followed for many years and the estate is now in the conversion phase to be certified organic.
Environmental friendly practices are particularly meticulous here and are carried out through canopy management, soil
management and grape yield management. In some vineyards, as an experiment, sulphur and copper base products are not
sprayed any more (although it is allowed by the regulations for organic viticulture) and a special mixture of seaweed, bee
propolis and other natural compounds that increase the defenses of the vines are utilised.
The 15 hectares of vineyards have been replanted with disease resistant clones, all Sangiovese except for Canaiolo Nero that was
planted in a vineyard of Casina Girasole.
In the cellar SO2 is reduced to a minimum quantity and nothing else is added to the wine. Only wild yeast is responsible for the
alcoholic fermentation aided by some additives in order to favour natural fermentation.
The ageing in wood depends on the type of soil of the vineyards so to maintain the character of the wines: the elegance of Chianti
Classico Grosso Sanese and Chianti Classico La Pieve, and the floral and aromatic quality of Chianti Classico Argenina. All
types of filtering have been eliminated.
Apart from Chianti Classico, the estate makes a Vin Santo del Chianti and three IGT/proprietary wines: Rosso del Palazzino
(95% Sangiovese, 5% other indigenous red berry varietals), Bertinga (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot. 20% Merlot)
and Stagi (100% Colorino).
Alessandro and Andrea are supported by the oenologist Luciano Bandini and by the agronomist Ruggero Mazzilli who specialises
in organic/sustainable viticulture.
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70
Argenina
Zone: Monti in Chianti
Cru: Argenina
Varietals: Sangiovese with a small %
of indigenous red varietals
Toscana IGT
Rosso del Palazzino
Zone: Monti in Chianti,
Lecchi in Chianti
5% other indigenous red
varietals
Average Prod.: 13,000 btls
Chianti Classico DOCG Grosso Sanese
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Monti in Chianti
Grosso Sanese
100% Sangiovese
2 hectares
10,000 bottles
Type of Viticulture: In the conversion phase to
Certified Organic
Toscana IGT
Bertinga
Zone: Lecchi in Chianti
Cru: Bertinga
Varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon,
20% Petit Verdot, 20% Merlot
71
Tuscany
Le Cinciole is located roughly half a mile from the town of Panzano, precisely in the center of the Chianti Classico appellation.
The vineyards are mainly in two distinct areas: Le Cinciole, the titular tract, adjacent to the house and cellars with an east-southeast exposure; Valle del Pozzo, over the hill of Panzano, facing south-east on the higher limits of the famous “Conca d’Oro”,
one of the finest crus of the Chianti Classico.
The vines are pruned very short, producing 30 hectolitres per hectare on the average. The intensity of the wines, deep colour and
lush flesh attest to uncommonly fine clonal selection.
Uncommon is also the focused dedication of the owners, Valeria Viganò and Luca Orsini. Every discussion, even every casual
chat is tuned towards ideas of defining and making fine wine, or improvements and how to accomplish them. The Chianti
Classico of Le Cinciole, aged one year in 20 hectolitre oak ovals rivals the very best wines in the area. For Petresco, a wine of
clearly superior structure and breed, the aging occurs in French oak barriques for 18 months. Petresco is a selection from the
vineyards that at best express the vintage.
Luca and Valeria also produce two IGT/proprietary wines “Camalaione” (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot)
and “Cinciorosso” (a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot). The use of international grapes is to prove
that, when a terroir is particularly suitable for viticulture, its character is stronger than the one of the varietals grown. Finally,
the range of wines is completed by a fresh and fruity rosato, a saignée of Sangiovese.
The vineyards now extend for 13 hectares and, since the 2005 vintage, the estate is certified for organic viticulture (although
organic practices have been followed since 2000). Starting with the 2009 vintage, Le Cinciole is also certified by C.O.R. (a
Canadian certification body). According to the new EU regulation, the wine will be certified organic starting from the 2012
vintage and “vino biologico” (“organic wine”) can be indicated on the label.
◊
72
Petresco
Zone: Panzano in Chianti
Cru: Vigna Sottobosco
Vineyard Ext.: a selection from the vineyards
that at best express the vintage
Toscana Rosso IGT
Camalaione
Cru: Vigna del Camalaione
Varietals: 70% Cabernet Sauv., 15% Merlot,
15% Syrah
Zone:
Varietals:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Toscana Rosso IGT
Cinciorosso
Panzano in Chianti
98% Sangiovese, 2% Canaiolo
9 hectares
35,000 bottles
Type of Viticulture: Certified Organic/C.O.R.
Certification
Cru: Le Cinciole - Vigneto Valle del Pozzo
20% Cabernet Sauvignon,
10% Syrah, 10% Merlot
73
Tuscany
This delightful estate in the heart of the Chianti Classico region has a lot to offer. It was bought in 1956 by the father of the
present owners, Franca, Ferdinando and Giovanni Imberti, who also manage a wood industry business in northern Italy, which
has been in the family for four generations.
Franca and Ferdinando follow the activities at “Le Fonti” supported by the agronomist Roberto Giannetti and by the oenologist
Paolo Caciorgna.
The soil here is typical of the Chianti Classico, skeletal with clay and sand, altitude is between 200 and 300 meters above sea
level and the exposure of the vineyards is mainly south, south-west.
This zone is warmer in respect to other classical ones, such as Panzano, Gaiole or Radda, consequently harvest is earlier and the
berries always reach full ripening. All this makes the wines fruity, pleasant and relatively supple (one must bear in mind that all
wines here are 100% Sangiovese!) in comparison to the more “austere” Chianti Classico wines and are perhaps more similar to
the wines of Tuscan Maremma.
The 23 hectares of vineyards were mostly replanted in the early 1990s and the traditional cellar was completely renovated a few
years ago.
The owners and the technical team believe in an extremely accurate work in the vineyards. Just as an example of how carefully
viticulture is managed, different types of vegetation, chosen depending on the vigour of the vines, are sown on every other aisle
between the rows of vines in order to provide green manure, and tillage of the soil is “fine-tuned” in order to prevent hydric
stress. And you certainly all know about Paolo Caciorgna’s work in the cellar!
All these efforts certainly pay off and the quality of the Chianti Classico, of the Chianti Classico Riserva and of the two IGT/
proprietary wines (also strictly 100% Sangiovese) prove it.
◊
74
Riserva
Zone: Poggibonsi
Vineyard Ext.: selection over 3 hectares
Toscana IGT
Vito Arturo
Zone: Poggibonsi
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Poggibonsi
100% Sangiovese
16 hectares
50,000 bottles
Certified Organic
Sangiovese di Toscana IGT
Zone: Poggibonsi
75
Tuscany
The fine microclimate and unique soil characteristics surrounding the medieval town of Lucignano, only a mile outside the
western border of the Chianti Classico, make it without a doubt the finest cru of the Chianti Colli Fiorentini appellation.
Of all the estates I have selected in Tuscany, Lucignano is the most consistent in quality, achieving remarkable results even
in the least favourable vintages. Its soils, moreover, (totally unlike those of the Chianti Classico), seem to be responsible for
the unusual resilience of the complementary Canaiolo varietal grown there, the quality of which I have never seen equalled
elsewhere, and whose relatively abundant presence in Lucignano’s Chianti certainly contributes to its unerringly fine quality.
Under these auspices, Niccolò, Ilaria, Angelica and Desideria Guicciardini (after their father, Count Lodovico, passed away
in 2003), together with oenologist Federico Staderini and agronomist Riccardo Galli, perpetuate the reputation that has made
the wines of Lucignano among the most sought after products of the Florentine hillsides. Since 1988 (when I decided to add
the Estate to my selections), Lucignano cultivates only the finest vineyards, having rented out the ones that they no longer felt
were up to the quality they required. The Chianti from this estate is a remarkably fine, fruity and soft wine gifted with a notable
bouquet, floral and berry-like, it is unlike any other Chianti I have encountered in this underrated appellation - a sign of the
unique characteristics of its cru. Significantly enough, Count Guicciardini was piqued at having to call his wine Chianti - in his,
and history’s, opinion, a ridiculous misnomer which appellation laws have fostered upon it. There was a time, before the advent
of mass media, when the cru of Lucignano was as well known and sought after as the best of the Chianti Classico. Those were
the days!
With its appealingly reasonable price it is my answer to the overwhelming output and encroaching presence of cheap and
cheaply made wines that have invaded the markets of the world.
The estate also offers a lovely Vin Santo.
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76
Vin Santo del Chianti DOC
Zone: S. Casciano Val di Pesa
Varietals: 80% Trebbiano,
20% Malvasia Bianca Toscana
Average Prod.: 5,000 half-bottles
Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG
Zone:
Cru
Varietals:
S. Casciano Val di Pesa
Lucignano
85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo,
5% other red berry varietals
77
Azienda Agricola
Tuscany
Giacomo Mori is an engineer and (like me) a sailor, and ever since I’ve known him, he’s dreamed of replanting his grandfather’s
vineyards and making fine wine. So for years I monitored his dream, and when he was poised and ready I suggested that he meet
Alberto Antonini, a fine friend and outstanding winemaker. With the appearance of the first stunning 1998 barrel samples the
rebirth of Giacomo’s family estate was a clearly established fact. No ambition here to produce great quantities - the vineyard
extension will never exceed 10 hectares - but rather a powerful drive to create the finest possible expression of Chianti. To
this end Giacomo has chosen low yielding rootstock and the finest possible clones of Sangiovese and Canaiolo; he has spaced
the vines tight, pruned short, employed only organic fertilization and avoided chemical sprays. He has also most tastefully
restructured the family’s spectacular vinification cellars, and thoroughly equipped them. Finally, he completed the ancient
aging cellars, entirely dug into live tufo rock and most remarkably built of three different levels, so as to ensure racking only by
gravity, pump action being limited only to assembly prior to bottling, once in the lifetime of a wine.
Two lovely wines are produced: the Chianti, aged in large and small French and Slavonian oak, and the Chianti Riserva
Castelrotto, a single vineyard wine aged in small French oak.
These are the quintessence of Sangiovese and Canaiolo from this little known area, whose expression of elegance and power
closely resemble those of their most famous siblings of the neighbouring appellation of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Giacomo
also makes a tiny quantity of delicious Vin Santo and an IGT/proprietary wine named I Mori (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah
and Sangiovese).
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78
Chianti DOCG
Riserva Castelrotto
Zone: Palazzone,
S. Casciano dei Bagni
Cru: Castelrotto
10% Merlot
Vin Santo del Chianti
DOC
Zone: Palazzone,
S. Casciano dei Bagni
Cru: La Sala
Varietals: 40% Trebbiano,
60% Malvasia Bianca Toscana
Average Prod.: 700 half-bottles
Chianti DOCG
Zone:
Varietals:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Palazzone, S. Casciano dei Bagni
6.45 hectares
30,000 bottles
79
Fattoria
Tuscany
In Italy the name of Carmignano, a small hillside town northwest of Florence, has been synonymous with fine wines since the
13th century, and documents attest to a sale of Carmignano in 1396 at four times the price of other contemporary prestigious
wines. So great was its reputation that Cosimo III de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, decreed in 1716 that the appellation be
strictly controlled, as well as the harvests and the sales, whether local or abroad. The confines of the ancient appellation remain
identical to this day, making it one of the smallest D.O.C.G. areas of Italy.
The wine itself has a physiognomy all of its own for, although its varietal makeup is similar to that of the Chianti (high
percentage of Sangiovese), a minimum of 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc is compulsory in its blend. These varietals were
introduced in the area by Caterina de’ Medici in the XVI Century and called Uva Francesca (French grape). In addition there is
an allowance of 20% of Canaiolo Nero and up to 10% of other varietals including Merlot, Syrah and such native Tuscan vines as
Colorino, Mammolo, and even some Occhio di Pernice. Thus, in Carmignano we find wines characteristically richer than those
of the Chianti: of more obvious structure and colour, more prodigal in their longevity and of better defined character. And yet
Carmignano is not what one would call a big or tannic wine, nor does it have the rigour of a Brunello di Montalcino. Its richness
is smooth and accessible and its bouquet expresses itself in finesse rather than in power. It likes wood, but not too much of it
and, rightly (for once!), the laws governing its production demand only eight months in wood, twelve months for the Riserva.
The Ambra estate has its vineyards in four of the best crus of Carmignano: Santa Cristina in Pilli, Montalbiolo, Elzana and
Montefortini, close to the Etruscan tomb bearing the same name.
Giuseppe Rigoli, the agronomist who owns the estate, mainly employs Sangiovese, Cabernet and Canaiolo Nero. Thus, Ambra’s
Carmignano has a concentration and deep aristrocratic “robe” quite unique among its leaner siblings.
The estate is small, the total vineyard extension 20 hectares. The total output is only about 800 hectolitres which is a yield of
only about 40 hectolitres per hectare; an indication of the rigid grape selection that goes into the making of this wine.
Since the 1985 vintage, a Carmignano riserva has been produced, aged in small French oak (500 and 350 litre tonneaux) and
from the estate’s vineyards of highest elevation, called Montalbiolo, producing a wine of unmatched elegance. 1995 brings
the debut of a second Riserva, Vigna Elzana: still Galestro soil but here clay is a defining component and the resulting wine is
powerful, warm-natured and opulent.
The other wines of the estate are Carmignano S. Cristina in Pilli and Carmignano Montefortini (made from the vineyards
standing in the homonymous crus); a fruity and fresh Barco Reale, the young version of Carmignano; a Rosato di Carmignano
made with Sangiovese grapes harvested early and vinified in a separate vat (with maceration with the skins for 10 hours at a
low temperature); a 100% Trebbiano white and a Vin Santo di Carmignano (aged for 6 years in oak “caratelli”, small barrels
of a capacity of 50-100 litres).
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80
Carmignano DOCG
Riserva Elzana
Zone: Carmignano
Cru: Elzana
10% Cabernet
Carmignano DOCG
Santa Cristina in Pilli
Zone: Carmignano
Cru: S. Cristina in Pilli
10% Canaiolo Nero,
10% Cabernet,
5% other red berry varietals
Carmignano DOCG Riserva Montalbiolo
Zone:
Cru:
Varietals:
Carmignano
Montalbiolo
Nero, 10% Cabernet
Toscana Agriqualità Certification
Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC
Zone: Carmignano
Varietals: 75% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo Nero,
10% Cabernet, 5% other red berry varietals
81
Azienda Agricola
Tuscany
The estate was established in 1964 when Alibrando Dei, the grandfather of Caterina, purchased Bossona where he planted a
vineyard (from which Dei’s top wine, Vino Nobile Riserva Bossona, is made). In 1973 the Martiena property was added together
with the beautiful villa which was restructured in the 1930s by the well known architect Piacentini. During the first years the
grapes were sold. The family then decided to start making wine and in 1985, which was an exceptional vintage, a cellar was
rented in the centre of the town of Montepulciano and the first bottles of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano were produced. In 1989
a cellar with modern equipment was built next to the villa.
Caterina has personally managed the estate since 1991 when she left her career in the theatre.
The vineyard extension is 55 hectares, divided between the zones of Martiena, Bossona, La Ciarliana and La Piaggia on the
slopes of the hill of Montepulciano.
The varietals grown are mainly the ones utilized in the blend of the estate’s Vino Nobile: Sangiovese and Canaiolo. A small
percentage of the varietals is international and these grapes go into the blend of the red proprietary wine “Sancta Catharina”.
Another small percentage is made up of white varietals (Grechetto, Malvasia and Trebbiano) for the production of Bianco di
Martiena (a second proprietary wine) and of Vin Santo di Montepulciano.
All the phases of wine production now take place in the impressive new cellar entirely built in Travertino marble (from the Dei’s
quarries) and glass. Energy is produced by photovoltaic panels and the temperature is kept even by a geothermal system. The
part of the cellar for vinification and ageing is built underground.
Dei produces a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano of truly superior breeding. Powerful and austere, its rich, elegant warmth betrays
a firm underlying structure.
This estate is certainly a reference for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano worldwide due to the extremely high quality of the wines. ◊
82
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG
Riserva Bossona
Zone: Montepulciano
Cru: Bossona
Vineyard Ext.: selection over 16 hectares
Rosso di Montepulciano DOC
Zone: Montepulciano
Cru: Bossona, Martiena
5% Canaiolo Nero, 5% Merlot
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG
Zone:
Cru:
Varietals:
Montepulciano
Bossona, Martiena
Nero
Toscana Rosso IGT
Sancta Catharina
Zone: Montepulciano
30% Cabernet Sauvignon,
30% Syrah, 10% Petit Verdot
83
Tuscany
Vernaccia di San Gimignano is the only Tuscan white wine with a historical identity and, at its best, with a wonderful and lively
personality. Its reputation dating back to the Middle Ages, the wine’s ebullience was duly noted by Michelangelo who with
a perceptive poetical flight described it as a wine that “kisses, bites, stings and caresses”, perfectly capturing its delicate yet
sinewy character. This wine was the first in Italy to be awarded the DOC status in 1966, which was then upgraded to DOCG in
1993.
The parents of Franco Troiani, the present owner, moved from the Marche to Tuscany in 1959 and purchased the estate. In the
1990s a large part of the vineyards were replanted. The Vernaccia clones were collected, and still are today, from the the oldest
vineyard of the property, planted in 1980. Franco now replants two or three hectares of vineyards each year. An extremely modern
and partially underground cellar was built in 2001. To have modern and sophisticated equipment is particularly important for
Vernaccia as this grape has a delicate nature and a very very fragile skin that breaks easily when reaching full ripeness.
Fontaleoni’s vineyards stand on a prevalently calcareous soil (originating from the Pliocene Epoch) at the ideal altitude of
200-250 meters above sea level. The vine training systems are guyot and cordon spur, the traditional ones of the area, vineyard
density is 4,500 plants/hectare.
Vineyard management is meticulous and carried out entirely by hand: only sulphur and copper base products are used, very little
and only organic fertilizers are spread, grass is left on every other aisle. Grape yield is kept low by thinning the buds during the
budding phase and the clusters at veraison (the phase when the berries change colour) and before harvest. The estate is in the
conversion phase to certified organic.
The touch of Paolo Caciorgna, who consults for Fontaleoni, is evident in the lovely wines. Three Vernaccia di San Gimignano
are made: two “base” versions and a Vernaccia made from a selection of the best clusters grown in the best vineyards. Franco
also produces a Chianti and a Chianti Colli Senesi.
This is a family run estate and Franco’s son and daughter are now part of the team: Matteo is an agronomist and Simona has a
degree in foreign languages.
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84
Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
Casanuova
Zone: S. Gimignano
Varietals: 95% Vernaccia, 5% Chardonnay
Riserva
Zone: S. Gimignano
Varietal: 100% Vernaccia
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG
Zone: S. Gimignano
5% Canaiolo
S. Gimignano
100% Vernaccia
13 hectares
70,000 bottles
Certified Organic
85
Tuscany
Along with the Fontaleoni estate and perhaps a few others, Tenuta Le Calcinaie happily testifies to the rebirth of quality oriented
Vernaccia, a concept all but abandoned for nearly a generation. Simone Santini is the estate’s factotum. Gifted with an archetypal
Tuscan sense of humour - keen, refreshing, flippant and pungent, he in fact much resembles the Vernaccia he makes, a prime
example of why this appellation was the first to deserve formal D.O.C.G. recognition. For, indeed, Vernaccia di San Gimignano
really deserves the reputation that, with Soave and Orvieto, made it pre-eminent among Italian white wines.
A wine with a brilliant and nervous disposition, angular and vibrant, yet smooth in the finish, with the bitter-sweet almond
touch characteristic of the varietal, Le Calcinaie’s Vernaccia is a pretty and coquettish creature, of which, of course, one would
wish one had much more than the little that is made. Even rarer is the Vernaccia Vigna ai Sassi, a single vineyard selection, that
matures on the lees in steel for two years - and turned just a bit thoughtful and reticent in nature.
Simone Santini’s red wines have also turned a few heads. The Chianti Colli Senesi is a wonderfully pure example of the supple
Sangiovese that the San Gimignano climate and terroir will yield, a round, baby-faced wine of exceptional friendliness and
candor. And the IGT/proprietary “Teodoro” is a show stopper - loaded with layers of rich texture, made more jammy by the
presence of Merlot and Cabernet and small oak aging - remarkably satisfying stuff from the Great Santini! The estate also offers
a Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva and another IGT/proprietary wine, “Gabriele”, 100% Merlot.
Le Calcinaie was certified for organic viticulture in 2001 and, starting with the 2008 vintage, it is also certified by the National
Organic Program in the US. According to the new EU regulation, the wine will be certified organic starting from the 2012 vintage and
“vino biologico” (“organic wine”) can be indicated on the label.
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86
Riserva Vigna ai Sassi
Zone: S. Gimignano
Cru: Vigna ai Sassi
Varietals: 90% Vernaccia, 10% Chardonnay
Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG
Zone: S. Gimignano
5% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
S. Gimignano
Le Calcinaie
100% Vernaccia
5 hectares
35,000 bottles
Type of Viticulture: Certified Organic / US NOP
Certification
San Gimignano Rosso DOC
Teodoro
Zone: S. Gimignano
Cru: Le Calcinaie
Varietals: 75%Sangiovese,
20% Merlot , 5% Cabernet Sauv.
87
LIGURIA
This is one of the smallest regions of Italy, its surface being 5,420 square kilometres. It is a long and narrow strip of land that
extends from the south of France to northern Tuscany. The major part are mountains and the rest are hills. Its coasts, which in
some areas are extremely steep, extend for 346 kms. Its climate is mild, due to the breezes of the Ligurian sea and due to the fact
that the region is protected by the Alps and the Apennines. Liguria is a region of seamen (Cristoforo Colombo was from Genova),
of merchants, of farmers and of mountain people. Genova was, and still is, one of the most important ports of the Mediterranean.
If you want to see what “heroic” viticulture is all about visit the lovely Cinque Terre that has been declared World Heritage by
UNESCO in 1997.
The cuisine in Liguria is delicious and extremely interesting: as pastures were scarce because of the morphology of the region,
there is a great variety of fish dishes, there is a great use of herbs, the delicious Ligurian olive oil is used in the cooking, there
is a great variety of different kinds of pasta and there are excellent game dishes. For many aspects, Ligurian cuisine can be
considered the true Mediterranean cuisine.
Our selection offers you wines made within the Colli di Luni DOC appellation in the eastern part of the Region in the province of
La Spezia (this appellation also extends to the province of Massa Carrara in Tuscany). Luni used to be an important port during
the ancient Roman times and the wines that were made in this area were very much appreciated at the time. The Vermentino
varietal finds its ideal habitat in this area and has been grown here for centuries.
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88
Rossese
Ormeasco
Pollera Nera
89
Vermentino
Pigato
Azienda Agricola
Liguria
The estate was established in 1993 when Roberto Petacchi started managing the vineyards of his grandfather Pietro Giacomelli.
The 11 hectares of vineyards stand in the area of Castelnuovo Magra, the southern zone of Liguria on the border with Tuscany,
in the heart of the Colli di Luni appellation. The climate here is mild, due to the proximity of the Tyrreanean sea, and this
combined with the soil rich in minerals, results in wines with a distinctive and special character. Viticulture is strictly integrated
and sustainable. Roberto makes two single vineyard Colli di Luni Vermentino DOC, a Colli di Luni Rosso DOC, a Liguria di
Levante Rosso IGT and a Liguria di Levante Bianco IGT.
The Colli di Luni Vermentino “Pianacce” is 100% Vermentino grown in the homonymous cru and it is an intense straw yellow
that acquires golden reflections with age. Mediterranean herbs, white fruit and slight tones of acacia flower and wet stone entice
the nose, while the wine is dry, full bodied, supple and round in the mouth. A saline note in the long aftertaste provides balance
and pleasantness. Vinification takes place in steel tanks with temperature control and the wine matures for at least 8 months on
the lees.
The Colli di Luni Vermentino “Boboli” is made from the older vineyards (50/60 years old) of the estate planted according to
the “old recipe” for the whites in this zone, i.e. 90% Vermentino and 10% Malvasia grapes. The original blend is maintained
in the modern version of this wine. Compared with “Pianacce” Boboli offers more complexity and structure and it improves
considerably after three or four years in the bottle. The colour is straw yellow with bright golden reflections, the nose shows a
lovely complexity with fragrant notes of grapefruit, mint, tropical fruit with a distinct mineral note in the finish.
“Pergole Basse” is a fresh and fragrant red vinified and matured in steel in order to maintain the fruit of the young Merlot vines it
is made from. 2011 is the first vintage bottled. The production is very limited, 7,000 bottles from a small vineyard that stands in
front of the Gulf of La Spezia, 50 meters above sea level. The salty sea breeze endows this wine with a great personality despite
its recent history. “Pergole Basse” is an intense ruby red with a typical blueberry and raspberry nose, it is dry, smooth and very
fruity in the mouth with a slight almond aftertaste.
These wines are made from different vineyards and with different blends, but they all show Roberto’s passion for this unique
terroir.
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90
Colli di Luni Vermentino DOC
Boboli
Zone: Castelnuovo Magra (La Spezia)
Cru: Vigneto Boboli
Varietals: 95% Vermentino,
5% Malvasia di Candia
Liguria di Levante
Rosso IGT Pergole Basse
Zone: Castelnuovo Magra
(La Spezia)
Varietal: 100% Merlot
Colli di Luni Vermentino DOC Pianacce
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Castelnuovo Magra (La Spezia)
Vigneto Pianacce
100% Vermentino
5 hectares
32,000 bottles
Liguria di Levante Bianco IGT
Paduletti
Zone: Castelnuovo Magra (La Spezia)
Varietals: 60% Vermentino,
30% Trebbiano, 10% Malvasia
91
TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE
This is the most northern region of Italy, through which the Adige river flows, and it is made up of two distinct areas also from
an oenological point of view. This region has revealed itself, in the last three decades, as the area with the greatest potential for
white wines in Italy, although it also offers excellent reds. The terroirs and the climates here are remarkably suited for the vine,
the microclimates fabulous and highly diversified and the technology of winemaking among the most sophisticated in the nation.
The Institute of San Michele all’Adige is one of the oldest and best oenological schools in Italy and one of the most important
research institutes in Europe. Tiziano Tommasi, owner of La Cadalora, has been working here as a researcher for many years.
Vines were grown in this region since 2,000 BC and the ancient population of the Raetians, later conquered by the Romans,
used to preserve wine in wooden barrels. During the medieval times viticulture was continued by the monasteries. The wines of
Trentino Alto Adige were well known and appreciated also in Germany and in Austria up to modern times. Unfortunately the
vineyards of this region were not spared by Phylloxera, Oidium and Peronospora at the end of the 1800s and at the beginning
of the 1900s.
The landscape is extremely varied: high peaks of the Alps, luscious green valleys, beautiful lakes. The vineyards are cultivated
as gardens.
The cuisine is also extremely varied and quite different to the rest of Italy: of Germanic-Austrian influence in Alto Adige (also
known as South Tyrol) and of Venetian influence in Trentino.
Due to the combination of the unique microclimates, soils and advanced technology, lovely wines are made from allochtonous
varietals (such as Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sylvaner, Riesling, etc) and autochtonous varietals (Lagrein, Schiava
or Vernatsch, Casetta, Marzemino, Gewürztraminer). Furthermore, environment friendly practices have been the rule in this
region for a long time.
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92
Lagrein
Schiava
Marzemino
Casetta
Gewürztraminer
93
Azienda Agricola
Trentino Alto Adige
Situated in the town of Santa Margherita, in the southernmost part of Trentino, the estate of La Cadalora extends its 12 hectares
of vineyards in three different plots: about 5 hectares on the calcareous soils close to Marco di Rovereto and the remaning 7
hectares in two calcareous conoids of Valle Cipriana and San Valentino, at the foothills of Monte Zugna. The soils of the latter
contain higher percentages of clay while the former are gravelly/sandy and calcarous.
In the eighties Rodolfo and Tiziano (a trained oenologist from the renouned Institute of San Michele all’Adige) took over
the management of their father’s estate and immediately set to work: the traditional “Pergola Trentina” training system was
modified in order to obtain a vineyard density between 5,000 and 8,000 vines/hectare ensuring a maximum of 1 to 1.5 kgs of
grapes per plant. Viticulture became strictly environment friendly by eliminating chemicals: “sexual confusion” practice is
followed for insect control, only Bordelaise poultice is sprayed and grass is left on the aisles. Green pruning, topping of the vines
and deleafing keep the plants balanced and when necessary and depending on the varietal, fruit is thinned by cutting the second
cluster or the “wings” of the clusters.
The varietals grown are Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, a little Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Marzemino and
Casetta (these last two planted right after World War One, Casetta being a very ancient and rare varietal).
Tiziano’s son Michele is now working full-time at the estate. He recently graduated in oenology in Italy and at the renowned
University of Geisenheim in Germany with a thesis on forecasting models for vineyard management.
The stile of Tiziano is one after my own heart. The white wines are superbly characterized by a rich, buttery structure and
powerful varietal aromas. The level of the reds is also very high, the wines made from Casetta and Marzemino are extremely
interesting and intriguing and definitely worth a try.
La Cadalora represents more than the discovery of a fine producer, it is the long sought find of a winemaker who, thanks to his
outlook and capacity, produces outstanding wines from Italy.
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94
Pinot Grigio Vallagarina IGT
Gazzi
Zone: S. Margherita Vallagarina
Cru: Gazzi
Gewürztraminer
Vallagarina IGT
Varietal: 100% Gewürztraminer
Pinot Grigio Vallagarina IGT
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Santa Margherita, Vallagarina
100% Pinot Grigio
3 hectares
35,000 bottles
Pinot Nero Vallagarina IGT
Vignalet
Varietal: 100% Pinot Nero
95
Trentino Alto Adige
Viticoltori Alto Adige is a cooperative representing and operating as a co-ordinating and consulting agency to 6 Cantine Sociali
of the Alto Adige. By grouping together highly specialized and highly qualified producers, Viticoltori has initiated the most
fruitful quality-oriented oenological innovation of the region, for it finally allows the very finest crus of Alto Adige to be known
in their integrity.
The process is simple and effective. The oenologist of the cooperative works closely with the oenologists of the various wineries
and choses only the best lots of wine to be bottled (at the co-operative winery of St. Michael, Eppan) thus ensuring the highest
quality possible. And here it must be added that the Trentino-Alto Adige boasts the finest white wine oenologists in Italy and
the best school of oenology of the nation. All aspects concerning viticulture are supervised by a provincial committee that
collaborates with the agronomists of the six wineries.
At the beginning of 2006 Viticoltori has developed a new selection of wines that groups the most representative varietals grown
in South Tyrol - Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Silvaner, Lagrein, Sauvignon Blanc,
Pinot Noir, Schiava (Vernatsch), Müller Thurgau and Gewürztraminer - from the very best crus.
Remarkable to the neophyte will be the recognition that there is no single cru where all varietals thrive at their best. Rather, each
varietal has a particularly felicitous cru of its own which, due to geophysical aspects of soil, exposure and microclimate, yields
the finest wine of its kind.
Pinot Grigio is presented in two bottlings in the new selection: a “base” version from the vineyards of the Bassa Atesina hills
and a top line wine from vineyards in the Oltradige region. Both areas are long known for their superb white wines and offer the
ideal growing conditions for this particular varietal. These wines are full but soft to the palate with a good acidic balance with
a slight note of ripe fruit. The aroma is of tropical fruit and honey. Truly lovely wines!
Lagrein is a typical varietal of Alto Adige and it is mentioned in XVII Century documents of the Benedictine Monastery of Muri
near Bolzano. It produces full-bodied wines, with red berries and violet notes.
Schiava (Vernatsch) is another grape often found in this region. Viticoltori bottle this light and fruity wine produced from a
number of small vineyards in the township of Appiano (Eppan).
Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir give superb results in this part of Italy and these wines are among the best one can taste.
Müller Thurgau and Gewürztraminer grapes are traditionally grown in Alto Adige and Viticoltori offer an excellent version of
wines made from these varietals.
I am extremely happy to be able to present this interesting and well-priced range and all the wines are definitely worth a try!
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96
Alto Adige DOC Pinot Grigio
Zone: Bassa Atesina
Alto Adige DOC Pinot Noir
Zone: Appiano
Varietal: 100% Pinot Nero
Alto Adige DOC Pinot Grigio Kristall
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Oltradige
100% Pinot Grigio
15 hectares
150,000 bottles
Alto Adige DOC Lagrein
Zone: Bolzano
Varietal: 100% Lagrein
97
Tenuta
Trentino Alto Adige
Weingut Kӧfererhof is located in the Isarco Valley, the most northern tip of Italy. The 5.8 hectares of vineyards of the estate are
planted on loose and loamy-sandy soils at an average altitude of 650 meters on sea level. The farmstead dates back to the twelfth
century and since then grapes have always been grown and wine was sold directly at the farm. The Kerschbaumer family has
run the estate since 1940.
Up to 1995, when the cellar was completely rebuilt and wine started being produced again and estate bottled, grapes were sold
to Abbazia di Novacella, the local Co-op. Günther Kerschbaumer is the agronomist and winemaker and the wines produced are
typical of this area and more similar to the wines made across the border in Austria than to the traditional Italian whites. Dense
plantings (6,000-7,500 vines per hectare) combined with altitude, high temperature during the day and cool nights in summer
result in fresh, aromatic and fruity wines with a good structure and mineral notes.
The Kerschbaumers make eight Alto Adige Valle Isarco DOC wines from the classical varietals of the region: Pinot Grigio,
Sylvaner (a “base” and a single vineyard wine are produced), Kerner, Müller Thurgau, Grüner Veltliner, Gewürztraminer and
Riesling.
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98
Alto Adige Valle Isarco DOC
Pinot Grigio
Zone: Varna/Novacella
Sylvaner
Varietal: 100% Sylvaner
Alto Adige Valle Isarco DOC Kerner
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Novacella/Varna
100% Kerner
3.6 hectares
20,000 bottles
Gewürztraminer
Varietal: 100% Gewürztraminer
99
VENETO
This region, once one of the poorest and from which many people had to migrate in order to find work, is now one of the
wealthiest. When one visits Veneto nowadays it is incredible to think that in the past scurvy was rampant in some areas as
“polenta” was the staple diet.
As in most Italian regions viticulture and winemaking are an ancient tradition: the Romans improved the techniques of the
Etruscans and of the Raeti (another ancient population that inhabited Veneto) and the wines of the Colli Euganei and of the area
of Vicenza were famous. In the following centuries viticulture was abandoned due to the barbaric invasions and it flourished
again starting from the XI Century and under the “Serenissima Repubblica di Venezia” (the Most Serene Republic of Venice).
In 1709 an extremely cold winter destroyed the major part of the vineyards and at the end of 1800s Phylloxera, Oidium and
Peronospora annihilated many indigenous grape varieties. Consequently grape varieties were introduced from France and
from other regions of Italy and were grown together with the autochthonous varieties that survived. In Veneto viticulture and
winemaking are extremely important, but it is also the first region in Italy for wine consumption.
This region rightly attracts the largest amount of tourists in Italy each year due to its impressive historical and artistic sites
and its places of interest. There is much more to see apart from Venice and Verona (although even after numerous visits to these
fantastic cities there is always something new to discover) and each town is a jewel. And when you are tired of sightseeing you
can relax in one of the spas in the Colli Euganei or on the lake of Garda where there are many hot springs.
The cuisine is extremely varied and, as Veneto was dominated by the “Serenissima” for over three centuries till 1797, the
influence of this powerful Republic is still felt for example in the use of spices, reminiscent of the trade with the East. Otherwise
you can try a vast array of sea and fresh water fish dishes, seafood, meat dishes (horse and even donkey meat is traditional in
Verona), pork products, incredible risotto (try a risotto made with “Vialone nano” a typical rice variety), home made stuffed
pasta and so on. Many vegetables are typical of Veneto such as the delicious “radicchio Trevigiano” cut in half and grilled.
The producers of our selection mainly make wine with autochthonous varieties grown in the best areas of Soave, Valpolicella
and Valdobbiadene. They are all family run wineries with a long tradition and make it possible for you to taste “the real thing”
in the glass!
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100
Corvina
Corvinone
Rondinella
Molinara
Garganega
Glera
101
Azienda Agricola
Veneto
The Gini family is one of the oldest of the area going back as far as the 1500s. Documents of the 1600s and 1700s were found
stating purchases of land and of vineyards (the cru Contrada Salvarenza is mentioned) confirming that this has always been a
family of vignerons. Claudio and Sandro now manage the estate after their father Olinto left us a few years ago, and Matteo,
Sandro’s son, is working full time at the estate, mainly in the cellar.
All of the 26 hectares of vineyards planted with Garganega grapes of the estate stand within the Soave Classico appellation.
The historical vineyards of La Froscà and of Contrada Salvarenza have always belonged to the family. Other vineyards, with
an excellent position and with old vines, were purchased in the 1980s: these are the vineyards of Foscarino, Montegrande,
Casanova (all three with volcanic topsoil) and of Volpare.
La Froscà is the name of the hill where the crus of La Froscà (on the top of the hill) and of Contrada Salvarenza (in the centralmiddle part of the hill) are located. The topsoil is volcanic while the deeper part of the soil is calcareous. The oldest vines are in
Contrada Salvarenza (from 60 to 100 years old), one third of the vines are prephylloxera and consequently ungrafted. The hills
of Monteforte boast the highest vineyard density in Europe, in fact it reaches 95-96%. The cru of Col Foscarin, 4 hectares of
Soave Classico from which the grapes for the homonymous Recioto are selected, is at the back of the La Froscà hill.
Only natural practices are followed in the vineyards and in the cellar.
The Soave Classico, far from being a “base” wine, is the result of a careful selection of 5 or 6 crus of Garganega all in exceptional
positions. The vines are all 60 or more years old (bear in mind that Claudio and Sandro never planted a vineyard of Garganega
in their life!). The soil of these crus varies from volcanic to calcareous so that this wine has an exceptional complexity.
The Soave Classico Contrada Salvarenza is made exclusively from grapes grown in the vineyard of the same name. The clones
were selected by Claudio and Sandro’s great grandparents from their best vines in order to make high quality wine. This wine is
still wonderful after many years: at the dinner that the Gini family has every year during Vinitaly, 1990 and 1999 bottles were
opened and they were fantastic!
The single vineyard La Froscà Soave Classico is another masterpiece. The same grapes are responsible for Gini’s splendid Grand
Cuvée Brut Millésimé (48 months on the yeasts!).
The vineyards of the estate do not only stand within the Soave Classico, but other 33 hectares (now in the conversion phase to
be certified organic) were planted in a wonderful area on the hill of Mirabello, on the border of the Soave area, surrounding
the village of Campiano, at 600 meters above sea level and which includes the appellations of Monti Lessini DOC and of
Valpolicella DOC. This is an incredible and uncontaminated zone and it originally was a tropical sea: the calcareous, smooth and
stratified rock which is seen in the vineyards and at the side of the dirt roads is in reality the primordial barrier reef!
Campo alle More (100% Pinot Noir), Maciete Fumè (100% Sauvignon Blanc) and a Monti Lessini DOC white are produced
here and soon the Gini family will delight and surprise us with a Valpolicella and an Amarone wine vinified in the impressive
new cellar they are building!
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102
Soave Classico DOC
Salvarenza
Zone: Monteforte d’Alpone
Cru: Salvarenza
Varietals: 100% Garganega
Soave Classico DOC
La Froscà
Cru: La Froscà
Soave Classico DOC
Zone:
Varietals:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Recioto di Soave Classico DOCG
Col Foscarin
Monteforte d’Alpone
100% Garganega
15 hectares
100,000 bottles
103
Veneto
Azienda Agricola
When Soave is excellent when it comes from good hillside vineyards that aren’t brutally overcropped; when the intentions are
fine and the drive generous and well aimed; when it is produced from Garganega alone, (perhaps with a touch of the mysterious
“Trebbiano di Soave” that many identify as Verdicchio) - then it is irresistible. The most threacherously tempting and the most
luxuriantly satisfying of white wines, it is no wonder that it became a household name the world over. Even less of a wonder
that it became the wine industry’s first major investment, a drive that devastated the appellation. Still today it may be wise to
reflect upon the fact that in the appellation there are, I believe, only 20 vignerons that bottle Soave, and rather small ones at that.
The rest is monopolized by the Soave Co-op that vinifies approximately 800,000 hectolitres, and sells to negotiants throughout.
When Gaetano Tamellini contacted me through a common friend, bringing me a superlative bottle of Recioto he had bottled for
family use, I was interested to hear that he wanted to start bottling, instead of selling grapes to the Co-op. He came to see me for
advice. So we talk, reciprocally visit, build a relationship, and we begin. Having furnished the cellar from scratch with state of
the art equipment just in time for the 1998 harvest, I send in Paolo Caciorgna, the best white wine maker I know, to follow each
step of the vinification. In the meantime Gaetano and his brother Pio Francesco work beyond any call of duty in order that the
difficult harvest may yield the loveliest of wines.
When I drive up to taste the wines, I’m simply in love: that innefable girlish sweetness that is the trademark of Soave; that
wildflower bouquet that makes you swoon; that spring in bloom that it conjures up - all are there, and more. In short, they are
all irresistible.
Gaetano and Pio have recently released a delicious Spumante Metodo Classico (made with 100% Garganega grapes and
with the traditional method).
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104
Soave Classico DOC
Le Bine de Costiola
Zone: Soave
Millesimato Extra Brut
Soave DOC
Zone:
Varietals:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Zone: Soave
Soave
100% Garganega
20 hectares
200,000 bottles
105
Veneto
This estate is located on the hills of Negrar, one of the five municipalities of the historical area for the production of Valpolicella
and Amarone wines within the province of Verona.
The Mazzi family has a long tradition in viticulture and wine making (wine was produced here since the early 1900s) and in
1960 Roberto Mazzi, a trained agronomist, started bottling the wines of the vineyards standing on the hills of Calcarole, Castel,
Poiega and Villa. The estate was initially called “Sanperetto” after the district where the farmstead was built in the 1800s.
The two sons of Roberto, Antonio and Stefano, are now at the helm and continue the tradition of making excellent Valpolicella
Classico, Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella.
The vineyard extension is 7 hectares, all within the Negrar valley and within the Valpolicella Classica zone, and it is divided
into five vineyards, which are among the best crus of the appellation. The exposure is south-west, and the grape varieties are
the traditional ones: 70% of the vines are Corvina and Corvinone, 20% are Rondinella and 10% are Molinara. The vine training
system is guyot and the age of the vines varies from 10 to 35 years. Natural viticulture has always been pursued and grass is left
on the aisles between the rows of vines.
The Poiega vineyard stands at 220 meters above sea level, the loamy-clayey soil is of alluvial origin and it is rich in limestone.
The Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes, that go into the blend of the homonymous Valpolicella Superiore, dry for 40 days
before being crushed.
The Calcarole vineyard stands at 240 meters above sea level on the highest part of the Poiega hill. In the best vintages Recioto
is made from these grapes that are dried till the end of February.
The Mazzi family consider the grapes of the Villa vineyard more suitable for the production of Amarone, called Punta di Villa
due to the shape of the vineyard. The age of the vines varies from 5 to 20 to 30 years and the altitude is 250 meters above sea
level. The grapes are dried till the first-second week of January.
The Castel vineyard has been recently purchased and it stands above the Villa vineyard at 350 meters above sea level. Stefano
and Antonio decided to bottle a second Amarone, made from the Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella grapes, with different
characteristics in comparison to the Punta di Villa Amarone as, due to the different position, the grapes have a higher sugar
content and particular balsamic notes. The clusters are dried till the first-second week of January.
The Valpolicella Sanperetto is made from a small vineyard next to the farmstead, together with the grapes from the other
vineyards that are not dried.
The wines of the Mazzi family reflect the best characteristics of this wonderful terroir, finesse and fruit are enhanced rather than
structure, they are extremely pleasant and drinkable even after many years.
Since the end of the 1980s, Roberto together with his wife Fiorella, has been dedicating himself to cooking, a great passion of
his. If you are in the Valpolicella stop at the family’s “eno-agriturismo” and experience a wonderful dinner, with a delightful
family and with lovely wines!
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106
Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC
Sanperetto
Zone: Negrar
Crus: Poiega, Villa, Sanperetto, Castel
20% Rondinella, 10% Molinara
Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC
Poiega
Zone: Negrar
Cru: Poiega
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC
Punta di Villa
Zone:
Cru:
Varietals:
Negrar
Villa
70% Corvina and Corvinone,
Recioto della Valpolicella Classico DOCG
Le Calcarole
Zone: Negrar
Cru: Calcarole
107
Cantine
Veneto
It was not easy to find a Prosecco that could satisfy our requirements, but finally we came in contact with Cantine Umberto
Bortolotti and the wines are a great addition to our portfolio. The average production, although it is approximately 1 million
bottles a year, is by no means large in comparison to other wineries in the Valdobbiadene area.
The Cantine were established in 1947 by Umberto Bortolotti who had a real passion for Prosecco; together with a group
of friends he founded the “Consorzio di Tutela del Prosecco” (Consortium for the safeguarding of Prosecco), the Prosecco
brotherhood and he also set up the National Fair of sparkling wines in 1963.
The cellars have been at their present location since 1954 and have recently been completely renovated. The business is now run
with much enthusiasm by Umberto’s son Bruno and this winery is a perfect blend of extremely modern technology and respect
for tradition. A group of grape growers within the Valdobbiadene appellation has been carefully selected over the years, together
with oenologist Enrico Baratto, ensuring that only grapes of the highest quality are vinified. All of the wines are made by the
Charmat production method.
There are two main lines of wines; the Linea UB where the Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG is predominant along with a few
other grape varieties and the Linea Astralis that includes 3 millésimé sparkling wines.
In 2012, two new DOCG millésimé wines have been released: Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Rive di Rolle “Piai Alto” and
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Rive di S. Stefano “Montagnole”. “Rive” means “steep hill” in local dialect. This indication
on the label is only allowed for sparkling wines that represent the essence of the terroir they derive from. The wines are
produced from vineyards located in a single commune or village where the maximum allowed grape yield is reduced to 13 tons
per hectare. The harvest has to be manual and the vintage must be shown on the label.
All wines will satisfy even the most discerning customers and are ideal not only as an aperitif or with desserts, but also for
unusual and interesting food matches. Apart from the delicious Prosecco, the sparkling Nosiola and Lagrein are definitely worth
a try.
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108
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Sup.
Extra Dry DOCG 47
Zone: Valdobbiadene
Varietals:90% Glera
(previously called Prosecco),
10% Pinot Bianco
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Sup.
Extra Dry DOCG
Zone: Valdobbiadene
Varietals:90% Glera
(previously called Prosecco),
10% Chardonnay
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Sup. Brut DOCG
Zone:
Varietals:
Valdobbiadene
90% Glera (previously called
Prosecco), 10% Pinot Bianco
Rosato Lagrein Brut VSQ
Zone: Casteller, Ravina (Trento)
Varietal: 100% Lagrein
109
EMILIA ROMAGNA
Although Emilia-Romagna is considered a single entity, Emilia and Romagna are two distinct wine regions. In the following we
will describe Emilia as a producer of the province of Modena is part of our portfolio.
The economy of this area of Italy makes up a considerable part of the national GDP, but unfortunately it was hit by a very strong
earthquake in May 2012: 55 people lost their lives, many were injured and a few thousand people had to leave their homes.
Historical buildings, schools, factories and farms were badly damaged.
Viticulture and wine production started with the Etruscans, followed by the Romans. The wines were very much appreciated in
the medieval times and prospered in the following centuries till Phylloxera ravaged this region destroying 90% of the vineyards
at the end of the 1800s. The vineyards were subsequently replanted, but, as in the other Italian regions, many grape varieties
were unfortunately lost.
Lambrusco wine started being made in the XVIII century and it immediately had an incredible success. It is made with the
homonymous grape varieties (Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Grasparossa, Lambrusco Salamino and others) which can be
considered the most indigenous varieties in the world as they represent the genetic evolution of the “vitis silvestris occidentalis”
which was domesticated in the zone of Modena.
Emilia is very rich from a historic, artistic, agricultural, economic and gastronomic point of view: the capital Bologna is also
known as “Bologna la grassa” (fat Bologna).
If you are on a diet and you have to eat “spa food” you are in the wrong place: this is the land of Parmigiano Reggiano, of
Prosciutto di Parma, Culatello di Zibello, cotechino, tagliatelle all’uovo, tortellini, lasagne, cappelletti, bollito misto alla
Modenese just to name a few dishes of the extremely vast gastronomy of Emilia. Many dishes go back in time as, for example,
the “pasticcio ferrarese di maccheroni” a kind of pie made with sweet pastry and stuffed with maccheroni, mushrooms, truffle
and meat or “erbazzone dolce” made with thinly sliced boiled chard mixed with ricotta, sugar and almonds. And what about
the heavenly Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena? Emilia is also famous for fruit and vegetable production, such as the
crunchy and delicious Vignola cherries.
What is better than a glass of high quality Lambrusco, as we offer in our selection, to wash down this lovely food or a glass of
sparkling Pignoletto to drink together with a plate of “tortellini in brodo”?
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110
Lambrusco di Sorbara
Lambrusco Grasparossa
Lambrusco Salamino
Lambrusco Ancellotta
Pignoletto
111
Emilia Romagna
Poderi
Ten years of searching have finally found us a small Lambrusco estate of irresistible quality in the province of Modena and that
has been owned and managed by the Fiorini family for four generations. Alberto and Cristina, brother and sister, are now at the
helm and continue to produce outstanding Lambrusco, one of the most typical and authentic wines of this area, supported by
Umberto Bertolani, a well-known oenologist and a point of reference for sparkling wine and for Lambrusco in particular. A new
estate within the Colli Bolognesi DOC appellation has recently been purchased and there is now a very intriguing Pignoletto
frizzante to offer - Pignoletto being an indigenous white varietal of the area. But this is not all: the family also produces a
heavenly Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena “affinato” (aged for 12 years in wood) and “extravecchio” (aged for 25 years
in wood)!
The Lambrusco grape varietal is ancient, it was mentioned by Virgil, Cato and Varro as “Labrusca vitis”*, meaning a wild vine
that produced clusters with a tart flavour and that used to grow on the borders of fields. The family of Lambrusco is quite vast
and each biotype is quite different. The ones that yield the best wines are the Lambrusco di Sorbara, the Lambrusco Salamino
(so called for the shape of the clusters which is similar to a salame) and the Lambrusco Grasparossa. All three of these varietals
are grown at Poderi Fiorini.
The vinification method at the estate is utilised only by a few other producers. For the reds, pre-fermentative cold delestage is
carried out: the clusters are crushed and the must is pumped into steel vessels with temperature control, once a day 50% of the
liquid is pumped into vats and kept at 4-5 degrees Celsius for 6-7 hours, after which the must is pumped back into the vessel
with the skins. This process is repeated for 4-5 days for the Lambrusco Grasparossa, while it only lasts for a few hours for the
Lambrusco di Sorbara. In this way freshness, fragrance and aromas are perfecty preserved. The must is then racked in order to
separate the liquid from the skins and kept at 0 degrees Celsius. The vinification process continues in autoclave (long Charmat
method that favours the forming of a fine and persistent “perlage”) where the alcoholic fermentation takes place together with
the “prise de mousse” for approximately 60 days. All the Lambruschi are remarkable and very different wines to the industrial
ones that unfortunately invaded the market: they are elegant, fruity, floral with a pleasant freshness that “cleans” the mouth.
The gem of the estate is “Vigna del Caso”, 50% Lambrusco di Sorbara and 50% Lambrusco Salamino, refermented in the bottle.
It is not filtered, the perlage is extremely fine, a delicate yeast note delights the nose, the flavour is dry and with a pleasant
bitter finish.
If you have doubts about Lambrusco being a high quality wine try these and you will discover a new world (possibly with
classical dishes of the lovely cuisine from Emilia)!
◊
* although the name is the same - Labrusca meaning “wild” in Latin - this vine is part of the European (Vitis Vinifera) grape
varieties and it has nothing in common with the Vitis Labrusca which is part of the American vine species
112
Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro
DOP Becco Rosso
Zone: Castelvetro and Savignano sul Panaro
Varietals: 60% Lambrusco Grasparossa,
40% Lambrusco Ancellotta
Lambrusco di Sorbara DOP
Corte degli Attimi
Zone: Bomporto, Sozzigalli
Varietal: 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara
Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOP
Terre al Sole
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Castelvetro and Savignano sul Panano
100% Lambrusco Grasparossa
4 hectares
15,000 bottles
113
Colli Bolognesi Pignoletto DOP
Spazzavento
Zone: Spazzavento
Varietal: 100% Pignoletto
MARCHE
This region of Italy may be “off the beaten track” for the average tourist visiting Italy, but it is one of the richest regions in
cultural assets: 500 historical squares, more than 1,000 monuments, 37 strongholds, 106 castles, 15 fortresses, thousands of
churches of which 200 are Romanesque, 96 abbeys, 183 sanctuaries, 77 historical theatres that have been completely restored
and that are in use, 315 libraries where ancient books are kept. Rossini is from this region and every August his works are
represented at the Rossini Festival in Pesaro. Many artists were born or have worked in this region: Lorenzo Lotto, Gentile da
Fabriano, Botticelli, just to name a few… The natural sights are wonderful too: the Frasassi caves near Ancona are among
the largest and most impressive in Europe, the white beaches of the Conero on the Adriatic are reminiscent of the Caribbean.
The ancient Greeks founded Ancona at the beginning of the IV century B.C. and introduced viticulture. Varro and Cato wrote
about the vineyards on the Adriatic coast and Pliny the Elder used to admire the wines of Ancona.
Although the region was ravaged by Phylloxera, as the rest of Italy, between the end of the XIX Century and the beginning of
the XX century, the vineyards were rapidly replanted and many of the indigenous varietals survived. French varietals were
introduced in mid 1800s to Civitanova by Paul Hallaire, superintendent of Napoleon the Third, and are still grown at the estate
of Boccadigabbia, which was part of the 100 poderi (100 holdings) of the Bonaparte Administration.
The vast offer of different wines is perfectly matched by the vast offer of the cuisine and gastronomic products of the Region:
Vincisgrassi a regional version of lasagne (named after the Austrian prince Windisch-Graetz who was greatly impressed by this
dish when he arrived in Ancona in 1799 to free the city from the Napoleonic troops), the delicious Olive Ascolane (large green
olives stuffed with herbs, meat and cheese and fried), Ciauscolo (a soft and spicy salame), the many wonderful fish dishes (the
Marche is the third largest fishing region in Italy).
Our portfolio offers an overview of the best wines made from the most significative varietals: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and
Verdicchio di Matelica made with the homonymous varietal, Rosso Piceno and Rosso Conero mainly Montepulciano, Pergola
Rosso made with Vernaccia Rossa di Pergola (an ancient varietal that is actually a clone of Aleatico) and the wines made with the
French varietals introduced under Napoleon the Third.
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114
Montepulciano
Sangiovese
Vernaccia Rossa di Pergola
Verdicchio
115
Azienda Agricola
Marche
For many reasons Boccadigabbia is one of the most interesting domaines in the Marche region. Until 1950 the estate belonged
to Prince Luigi Girolamo Napoleon Bonaparte, direct descendant of the Napoleon we all know. In fact, ever since the early 19th
century, French grapes were planted at Boccadigabbia under the Napoleonic administration, varietals the locals described as
“bordò” and “francesi” - a heritage unfortunately wholly lost in the breakdown of the imperial properties that ended in their sale.
It, then, makes perfect sense that Elvio Alessandri, the present owner, decided to plant Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris,
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon alongside the traditional Sangiovese, Trebbiano and Montepulciano: the choice had a historical
as well as qualitative significance.
Boccadigabbia produces about 3,500 bottles of “Akronte”, a Cabernet Sauvignon of remarkable complexity; 60,000 bottles of
Rosso Piceno, soft, fresh and forward; 6,000 bottles of “Pix”, 100% Merlot, a very soft and aromatically complex wine; 12,000
bottles of Sangiovese Marche “Saltapicchio”, with soft tannins and fine and elegant fragrances; 3,500 bottles of “Il Girone”,
100% Pinot Noir; 6,500 bottles of “Montalperti”, a barrel fermented Chardonnay among the best to be found in Italy; 6,500
bottles of “Le Grane” a Colli Maceratesi Ribona D.O.C (100% Maceratino, a very old local varietal); 60,000 bottles of “Garbì”
(a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Verdicchio); 3,500 bottles of “Roseo” (a saignée of the Rosso Piceno or of other reds).
One cannot help admiring the care in the vineyard and in the cellar, both testimonials to an uncompromising drive for quality
and quality alone. The excellence and excitement one tastes in each and every wine is a tribute to the owner and to the dedicated
winemaker, Fabrizio Ciufoli.
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116
Marche IGT
Cabernet Sauvignon Akronte
Zone: Civitanova Marche
Varietal: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Marche IGT
Sangiovese Saltapicchio
Zone: Macerata
Rosso Piceno DOC
Zone:
Varietals:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Civitanova Marche
Montepulciano, Sangiovese
6.5 hectares
60,000 bottles
Marche Bianco IGT
Garbì
Zone: Civitanova Marche, Macerata
Varietals: 40% Chardonnay,
40% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Verdicchio
117
Azienda Agricola
Marche
Verdicchio is a commonplace name among wine consumers. But few, even among the experts, know that there are two appellations
where Verdicchio is produced - Castelli di Jesi and Matelica - both employing the same Verdicchio varietal, but yielding wines
so radically different as to really call for a more definite distinction than the one employed today.
The wines from the Castelli di Jesi appellation are responsible for Verdicchio’s reputation as a supremely drinkable wine of
refreshing simplicity and very affordable price.
Verdicchio di Matelica is still virtually unknown outside of its appellation, a very small township couched in the hilly rural
central part of the Marche region. The Bisci estate is without doubt Matelica’s finest expression, its owners devoted solely to
quality: rigorously enforcing short pruning and the strictest cluster selection during harvest; bottling only wine from first run
must, and actually skipping vintages when not entirely satisfied with the final result. Releasing their Verdicchio (they produce a
regular, a single vineyard and a riserva) after most others have already been consumed, the Bisci estate makes a clear statement
as to the character of its wines. These wines are rich, creamy, engagingly structured of remarkable amplitude and length on the
palate. When young the bouquet has varietal grassy qualities backed by a spicy nature that with age evolves into complex and
seductive resinous suggestions, displaying characteristics so bold and distinctive as to warrant a redefinition of both varietal
and wine.
Bisci also produces a Passito (100% Verdicchio) and three Marche Rosso IGT: “Villa Castiglioni” (80% Sangiovese and 20%
Merlot), “Fogliano” (a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot) and “Piangifame” (100% Sangiovese and only made in the best
vintages) .
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118
Verdicchio di Matelica DOC
Vigneto Fogliano
Zone: Matelica
Cru: Fogliano
Varietal: 100% Verdicchio
Marche Rosso IGT
Villa Castiglioni
Zone: Matelica
Varietals: 80% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot
Verdicchio di Matelica DOC
Zone:
Varietals:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Marche Rosso IGT
Piangifame
Matelica
100% Verdicchio
10 hectares
40,000 bottles
Certified Organic
Zone: Matelica
119
Marche
When Attilio called and said “Let’s go for a ride and a taste in the Marche”!, I jumped at the idea and off we went. I like the
Marche, and my experience with Bisci’s Verdicchio di Matelica and the wines of Boccadigabbia had been so positive that I
harboured good feelings for this little known and underrated area. Then also, Attilio Pagli is a fine winemaker as Tuscany
has, a man of integrity and a good friend. So we ended up at Le Terrazze and, under a ripe rain, we slushed through the
vineyards, impeccably kept, clusters and clusters of Montepulciano cut and lying discarded on the ground, firmly discouraging
overproduction, the healthiest grapes enriching the panoply with purple.
Then, back to the estate for tasting and lunch and talking with Antonio Terni and his gracious wife, Georgina, vigneronne and
excellent cook to boot!
And we’re all a bit uneasy - as often happens amongst people who care about wine - when we approach “business matters”,
always an embarassing subject. But the wines were very fine, the future promised things finer and finer to come, the company
was precious. Thus, we met again, in Florence, for all details.
Rosso Conero, or at least its ancestor, had been produced in the small hilly enclave that is its appellation ever since Roman days,
testifying to the area’s viticultural aptitude. Fattoria Le Terrazze belongs to the Terni family since 1882 and the aim of the estate
is to make the finest wine possible in the appellation.
An average of 40,000 bottles of rich and elegant Rosso Conero are released on a yearly basis. Besides the Rosso Conero “base”,
Antonio Terni makes other two Rosso Conero (Conero DOCG from the ‘04 vintage) wines: a single vineyard for long aging,
called Sassi Neri (made to compete with some of the very best reds around) and, only in the best vintages, a selection Visions of
Johanna - a tribute to Bob Dylan of whom Antonio is a fan.
The range of wines also consists of three IGT/proprietary wines - “Chaos” (a blend of Montepulciano, Syrah and Merlot), “Le
Cave” (100% Chardonnay) and a Rosato (100% Montepulciano) - and of a young and fresh Rosso Conero, “Praeludium”. ◊
120
Conero DOCG Riserva
Sassi Neri
Zone: Numana
Varietal: 100% Montepulciano
Marche Rosso IGT
Chaos
Zone: Numana
Varietals: 50% Montepulciano,
25% Merlot, 25% Syrah
Rosso Conero DOC
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Numana
100% Montepulciano
10 hectares
40,000 bottles
Rosso Conero DOC
Praeludium
Zone: Numana
15% Syrah
121
Marche
I get great deal of pleasure poring over the varied and unique histories of the people and farms with which I work. So many
reach back to Renaissance and Medieval times involving generations upon generations of families, some noble, some not, all
fascinating. But the saga of the owners of this estate, the Lucangeli Aymerich di Laconi lineage, takes the cake.
The Aymerichs were originally Ostrogoths who descended into the Iberian peninsula at the time of the German tribal migrations.
By the turn of the last Millennium they had arrived in Sardinia. The activities recorded in Catalonia reveal participation
in the reconquest of Lerida in 1140 and Valencia in 1239. An Aymerich named Guillermo, during the conflict between the
excommunicated King Pedro and Charles of Valois brokered the papal truce in 1283. In 1286, at the court of Aragon, Arnaldo
arbitrated Alfonso IIIs claim to the throne. By 1476 their coat of arms included Aragon and Sicily and Emperor Charles V in
1535 granted the addition of the imperial two-headed eagle and the extraordinary right for the nobility to pass through the
females of the family. All Dons and Donnas with a capital D - Grandees of Spain 1st class! Through the centuries we find
Knights of the highest order in Spain and Italy, Governors, Viceroys, Bishops and Senators. Aymerich became one of the most
important names of Sardinia. Did I say names? Marchese di Laconi, Count of Villamar, Viscount of Valuri, Baron of Ploaghe,
Lord of Stuanu, Crastu, Lionesu, Riutortu and Montis di Ledda. But what brought us together was the connection of Aymerich
to the Lucangeli of the Marche: Stefano marries Beatrice (who sadly recently passed away).
The Tavignano estate has been fully reconstructed: villa, surrounding houses, and most importantly the vineyards and cellars.
The total vineyard extension is 30 hectares of which 15 planted with Verdicchio and the rest dedicated to red wines: Rosso
Piceno D.O.C. made in three different versions.
Verdicchio in the Jesi area contrasts sharply with that of Matelica. Instead of massive structure, straw colours, exotic bouquets
and weighty mouth-feel, Jesi offers less musculature, greener tints, aromas of flowers and fresh fruit, a crisp palate sensation
closing with a hint of bitter almonds. Tavignano’s single vineyard Misco Verdicchio (also produced as a Riserva), however, is
rich - but deliciously plump rather than heavy.
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122
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
Superiore DOC Misco
Zone: Cingoli, Jesi
Cru: Misco
DOC Riserva Misco
Zone: Cingoli, Jesi
Cru: Misco
Superiore DOC Villa Torre
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Cingoli, Jesi
100% Verdicchio
8 hectares
50,000 bottles
Rosso Piceno DOC Cervidoni
Zone: Cingoli, Jesi
25% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauv.
123
Marche
The Tonelli family have been vignerons for three generations. In 1985 Francesco, an agronomist and a sommelier, decided to
leave his job as a teacher and to dedicate himself completely to viticulture and wine making: he searched for rare and old vines
of Vernaccia Rossa - a clone of Aleatico grown in the area since 1234 when the town of Pergola was founded by the inhabitants
of Gubbio - and had them reproduced by specialised nurseries. He also helped to establish the tiny “Pergola” appellation (of
a total vineyard extension of barely 45 hectares and made up of just 3 producers). Francesco is supported by his son Stefano,
an oenologist, who, after having worked for a few wineries in Australia, is now helping his father with passion and dedication.
The Pergola Rosso wines are delicate, they are unique: rose petals, wild strawberries, raspberries and many other aromas delight
the nose, they are fresh and harmonic in the mouth. The must ferments in temperature controlled steel vessels, malo-lactic takes
place in glazed cement tanks, after which the wine rests in the bottle for a few months. “Grifoglietto” is made from a vineyard
that can be defined a “cru” with vines that are over 50 years old. “Vernaculum” is made from vineyards in the districts of
Montalfoglio and of Montevecchio.
Two passiti can also be tasted: one 100% Vernaccia rossa di Pergola and one mainly Biancame (an indigenous white varietal of
the Marche) vinified and matured in “caratelli”, small 50 and 100 litre oak barrels.
These wines prove the diversity of terroirs in Italy and how one can always be amazed and delighted by their offspring!
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124
Pergola Aleatico Superiore DOC
Grifoglietto
Zone: Grifoleto, Pergola
Cru: Grifoleto
Varietal: 100% Vernaccia Rossa di Pergola
(Aleatico clone)
Pergola Passito DOC
Aprico di Grifoglietto
Zone: Grifoleto, Pergola
Cru: Grifoleto
Varietal: 100% Vernaccia Rossa di Pergola
(Aleatico clone)
Pergola Rosso DOC Vernaculum
Zone:
Montalfoglio, Montevecchio,
Grifoleto - Pergola
Varietal:
100% Vernaccia Rossa di
Pergola (Aleatico clone)
Passito Ambreo di Grifoglietto
Zone: Montalfoglio, Grifoleto - Pergola
Cru: Grifoleto
Varietals: 90% Biancame,
10% Moscato Bianco
125
UMBRIA
Umbria, “the green heart of Italy”, is one of the smallest regions in the country and it is the only one that is landlocked. It is
mainly hilly and mountainous and the river Tiber flows in the middle. Be sure to include this region during one of your trips to
Italy: its artistic and natural sights are breathtaking, the food is divine and the wines are wonderful! Every time one visits this
region one discovers something new: did you know, for example, that there is a whole underground town below Orvieto? The
“Orvietani” used to hide there in the old days during sieges sometimes for months. There is also a flower mill dating back to the
Medieval times! Or, if you like water sports, go rafting or kayaking on the Nera river which is right under the Marmore falls
(165 meters high). Each town of this region is a jewel and luckily modern urbanization has not been so disruptive as it has been
in other parts of Italy.
The history of wine here is ancient: the Etruscans grew vines since the VII Century B.C. and the wine was used for religious
purposes. Viticulture was then continued by the Romans and by the Cistercian monks and by the followers of Saint Benedict
of Norcia. The Papal States ruled from the XIV till the XVIII Century and the wines of Orvieto in particular were the ones
appreciated by the various popes. Luca Signorelli, who painted the beautiful frescoes of the Duomo of Orvieto, was granted
1,000 litres every year of the local wine as payment for his services. In those days vinification took place in subterranean tuff
(“tufo”) caves where the temperature was low and even throughout the year. Consequently the alcoholic fermentation never was
completed and the wines remained sweet.
To experience Umbrian cuisine is like going back in time: all dishes have a different, more authentic, taste. This region is famous
for its pork products and Norcia is renowned for its delicious prosciutto and various other cured pork meat products. “Norcino”
(inhabitant of the town of Norcia) has become a synonym for a person who cures pork meat. One can also find heavenly black
and white truffles. Try the mouth watering “bruschetta al tartufo” (toasted slices of bread with black truffles, garlic and olive
oil) or the “pizza pasqualina” a sort of “panettone” made with cheese that is eaten at Easter. Although Umbria is famous for
meat and game, one can find very good freshwater fish in the delightful little towns around the Trasimeno lake.
Our portfolio offers you the wines of “Palazzone” made in the classical production area near the rock of Orvieto and those of
the Fratelli Pardi estate in Montefalco, another historical Umbrian town with an ancient viticultural and winemaking tradition:
read more about these wines in the pages that follow!
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126
Sagrantino
Sangiovese
Procanico
Grechetto
Verdello
Drupeggio
Malvasia Toscana
127
Azienda Agricola
Umbria
The father of Giovanni Dubini, the present owner of the estate together with his brother Lodovico, fell in love with Palazzone,
which he visited by chance with some friends, and bought the property at the end of 1968.
18 hectares of vineyards, all standing within the Orvieto Classico DOC appellation, were planted between 1971 and 1976. At
first the grapes were sold and then, after a small cellar was built, a part of the grapes was vinified. The first vintage to be released
was 1982.
After their father passed away in 1984, Giovanni and Lodovico decided to vinify the whole production and to build a new cellar.
Other 6 hectares of vineyards were planted in the following years. The total vineyard extension is now 24 hectares of which 21.5,
all within the Orvieto Classico DOC appellation, are grown with white varietals (Procanico, Grechetto, Verdello, Drupeggio,
Malvasia, Viognier, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc) and 2.5 are grown with red varietals (mainly Sangiovese with some plots
of Cabernet and Merlot).
In 2005 Giovanni and Lodovico opened a luxury rural hotel on the property after they restructured an impressive building dating
back to 1295 which has the architecture of a town palace, but which was probably either a hospitalis (hostel) for prelates and
travellers or an inn for pilgrims on their way to Rome. The view of the town of Orvieto from the veranda of the hotel is an
unforgettable experience!
The district of Rocca Ripesena, where the estate of Palazzone is located, is an area which is particularly suitable for viticulture
and its soils are deep, clayey and of sedimentary origin. The altitude of the hills is between 260 and 360 meters above sea level,
the exposure is north-east which makes it a cool zone. There is a strip of woodland at the top of the vineyards after which the
“Alfina” plateau gradually descends towards the lake of Bolsena (the largest volcanic lake in Europe, the central part of which
is up to 200 meters deep). The rains and the winds remain on the plateau making the microclimate of Palazzone quite unique
as the zone is well protected. There are many springs in the woods (the vats in the cellar are cooled with their water during
fermentation) so that there are no droughts.
Orvieto is still an important wine after 2,500 years of history, although the people, the production techniques and the grape
varietals have changed. This shows the zone’s great value and potential and Giovanni, who has managed the estate since 1978,
has being trying from the very start to work with this in mind. The results are remarkable: the two Orvieto Classico, Terre
Vineate and Campo del Guardiano (released a full year later), gifted with a wonderfully rich and silky body and an intensely
fruity bouquet develop complexity with age. They are indeed a magnificent modern interpretation of the traditional whites of
this area and they are a perfect match with the flavourful white meat dishes of Umbria.
The fine touch of Giovanni is found in all his other wines, white and red alike: in Grek (100% Grechetto), in his Viognier, in
the recently released Exit (100% Pinot Grigio), in Armaleo (Cabernet Sauvignon with 5% Cabernet Franc), in Ross (mainly
Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot), in Piviere (100% Sangiovese) and in the delicious Muffa Nobile (made with Sauvignon Blanc
grapes affected by botrytis).
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128
Orvieto Classico Superiore DOC
Campo del Guardiano
Zone: Rocca Ripesena, Orvieto
Cru: Campo del Guardiano
Varietals: 50% Procanico, 30% Grechetto,
20% Verdello, Malvasia, Chardonnay
Umbria Bianco IGT
TIXE
Orvieto Classico Superiore DOC Terre Vineate
Zone:
Varietals:
Rocca Ripesena, Orvieto
50% Procanico, 30% Grechetto, 20% Verdello,
Malvasia, Chardonnay
Umbria Rosso IGT
Ross
20% Cabernet Sauv., 20% Merlot
129
Umbria
Cantina
The origin of Sagrantino is uncertain: in Naturalis Historia Pliny the Elder mentioned the Itriola grape grown within the
area where Sagrantino di Montefalco is now produced, but it is likely that this varietal was brought by the Franciscan monks
returning from their travels in Asia Minor in the XIV-XV century.
Montefalco, one of the few towns in Italy where vineyards were planted within the city walls, boasts a very old tradition in
viticulture and winemaking: already in 1400s laws regulated this sector and starting from 1640 the beginning of harvest was
established by a decree of the town council.
Moreover, the agricultural planning of the XV century can be seen in the wonderful frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli of the
Monastery of San Francesco, in the cellars of which the great-grandparents of the present owners used to vinify their grapes from
1919 to 1945. The wines were then sold throughout Umbria and in the Vatican City. After 1945 the family decided only to sell
grapes up to 2002 when a new winery was established and wine started being bottled again under the supervision of Giovanni
Dubini, owner of Palazzone.
The Pardi family has owned a textile factory for three generations, the only one in Umbria where cotton and linen are still woven
with traditional mechanical looms, and the same passion and research for beauty and perfection can be now found in the wines.
Six different wines are made: a Sagrantino secco (matured in wood for 18 months, robust, but elegant, with a fantastic nose
of red berries with slightly spicy notes); “Sacrantino” a single vineyard Sagrantino secco (matured in wood for 18 months); a
Sagrantino Passito (made with grapes that are dried for two months on straw mats before being pressed, it is sweet, intense,
fruity, ideal with desserts or cheese); a delicious Montefalco Rosso (a blend of mainly Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Sagrantino), a Montefalco Bianco (60% Grechetto, 25% Trebbiano and 15% Chardonnay) and the recently released
Trebbiano Spoletino.
I am very grateful to Giovanni Dubini, who introduced us to this charming family and to their lovely wines, and I strongly
recommend to give them a try!
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130
Montefalco Rosso DOC
Zone: Montefalco
Varietals: 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino,
15% Merlot and Cabernet Sauv.
Montefalco Bianco DOC
Colle di Giove
Zone: Montefalco
Varietals: 60% Grechetto,
25% Trebbiano Spoletino,
15% Chardonnay
Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montefalco
100% Sagrantino
6.93 hectares
12,000 bottles
Sagrantino di Montefalco
Passito DOCG
Zone: Montefalco
Varietal: 100% Sagrantino
131
LAZIO
Our selection offers you wines made in Colle Mattia, a historical area within the Frascati DOC appellation in the beautiful
Castelli Romani zone. Vines were grown here since the ancient Roman times due to the fertile volcanic soil and the mild climate.
The wines were praised by the ancient Roman poets and historians, by popes and cardinals who had luxurious villas in this
lovely part of Italy.
The wines of the “Castelli Romani”, in the modern times, were, and still are in most cases, produced on a large scale without
much attention to quality. Now many producers are carrying out a strict selection of the clones of the indigenous varietals,
such as Malvasia del Lazio and Cesanese, which together with careful practices in the vineyards and in the cellar result in very
interesting and high quality wines.
The cuisine in this region, and in this area, due to the history of Lazio, is hearty, but basically “poor”, it is also greatly
influenced by the Jewish cuisine (in Rome there is one of the most ancient Jewish communities in the world). There is great use
of innards and of second choice parts of beef: such as “coda alla Vaccinara” (stewed ox tail), “pajata” arrosto (roasted veal
intestines). Vegetables and pulses have a very important part in the gastronomy: “carciofi alla Giudia” (artichokes cooked in
oil, an ancient Jewish recipe), “puntarelle” (the tips of a particylar type of chicory served with a sauce made with anchovies,
garlic and olive oil), “vignarola” (a delicious pulse stew) just to name a few dishes. As there were many sheperds here, lamb
dishes, such as “abbacchio a scottadito” can be enjoyed in the local restaurants. Needless to say that you should include the
“Castelli Romani” in one of your trips to Italy!
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132
Cesanese
Sangiovese
Trebbiano
Malvasia del Lazio
Malvasia di Candia
133
Lazio
Although we successfully worked with the wines of Villa Simone for over a decade, we decided to follow Piero Costantini’s
nephew and winemaker Lorenzo when he purchased, with his wife Fulvia, a small estate in Colle Mattia, one of the oldest areas
of wine production in Frascati. The limited production, just 50,000 bottles, and the fact that Lorenzo is concentrating all his
efforts and talents in the production of his own wines, convinced us to include his azienda agricola in our selection.
Lorenzo graduated at the Istituto di San Michele all’Adige (one of the best schools in Italy for viticulture and oenology) and
worked as director of the famous Tenuta Ca’ Bolani in Friuli and then for his family’s estate in Frascati.
Lorenzo and Fulvia’s vineyards stand in a zone where the historical estates of Frascati are located as the altitude (350 meters
above sea level) and a perfect exposure make it ideal for viticulture: in fact the high temperature during the day and the
cool nights favour aromas, while the volcanic/clayey soil, rich in minerals, and in potassium in particular, makes the wines
particularly sapid. The azienda is tiny, the vineyard extension is only 5.5 hectares, sustainable practices are followed and only
sulphur and copper base products are used. Bottles are stored in the hand hewn tufo (tuff) caves on the estate. In the old days
one third of the whole production of Frascati wine was vinified in these vaults, 15 meters underground.
Two wines are produced, a lovely and elegant Frascati Superiore (DOCG from the 2012 vintage) and a supple and fruity IGT red
(a blend of mainly Sangiovese and Cesanese), first release the 2007 vintage.
Lorenzo has recently released two IGT/proprietary wines labelled “Borgo del Cedro”: a white (a blend of Malvasia del Lazio
and Sauvignon Blanc) and a red (a blend of Syrah and Petit Verdot) from vineyards of a friend of his in the Maremma Laziale
(province of Latina). The vineyards are in a lovely position facing the sea. The soil here is clayey and, although the climate can
get very warm, the area has an excellent ventilation. The grapes are then vinified at a local winery for which Lorenzo consults. ◊
134
Massarosa Lazio Rosso IGT
Zone: Colle Mattia, Frascati
Varietals: 45% Cesanese, 45% Sangiovese,
10% Montepulciano and Cabernet Sauv.
Lazio IGT Malvasia Sauvignon
Borgo del Cedro
Zone: Latina
Varietals: 50% Malvasia del Lazio,
50% Sauvignon Blanc
Massarosa Frascati Superiore DOCG
Zone:
Varietals:
Colle Mattia, Frascati
30% Trebbiano, 30%Malvasia del
Lazio, 40% Malvasia di Candia
135
ABRUZZO
This beautiful region is geographically in central Italy (although it is considered part of southern Italy by the Italian Statistical
Authority) and it faces the Adriatic sea with approximately 150 kilometres of coast. It is also one of the most mountainous regions
of the peninsula with many sky resorts and three national parks where one can sight chamois, bears, wolves and golden eagles.
An unforgettable experience is to go on a cross-country skiing excursion in the parks (there are guides who can take you) in early
spring when there is still snow: crocuses grow where the snow has melted and tracks of many animals can be found. Abruzzo
is impressive also from an artistic point of view. Sadly the town of l’Aquila, with its lovely churches and monuments, was badly
damaged by an earthquake in 2009 during which 308 people lost their lives and 1,600 people were badly injured. This region
was one of the poorest in Italy till a few decades ago and many “Abruzzesi” had to migrate to other regions of Italy or abroad in
order to find work. Luckily the economy gradually got better and it is now one of the best in the southern area of Italy. The wines
of this region were very much appreciated by the ancient Romans. Viticulture and wine making were then depressed due to the
barbarian invasions, but subsequently picked up thanks to the monasteries and flourished during the Renaissance. This region,
as the rest of Italy, was ravaged by Phylloxera at the beginning of the 1900s and unfortunately many indigenous varietals were
lost. Consequently Montepulciano and Trebbiano became the main varieties of this region and were grown focussing on quantity
rather than on quality. Luckily many producers have inverted this trend and the quality of the wines of Abruzzo has now greatly
improved. Indigenous varietals, such as Pecorino, Passerina and Cococciola are now grown again. The cuisine of this region
is extremely varied and has a lot to offer: delicious fish specialties on the coast, meat dishes, salami (try the “mortadella di
Campotosto” better known as “coglioni di mulo” or “mule’s balls”) and cured meat, fruit and vegetables in the inner zones. The
saffron of Novelli is famous and it is found in many lovely recipes. The olive oil of Abruzzo has gained three DOP (denominazione
di origine protetta – protected origin denomination) for the “Aprutino Pescarese”, “Colline Teatine” and “Preturziano delle
Colline Teramane” olive oils. This is certainly a region to explore!
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136
Montepulciano
Pecorino
Cococciola
137
Abruzzo
In the unappropriately vast appellation of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, where the Montepulciano grape is cultivated in a spectrum
of climates, altitudes and pedological conditions that is boggling in its variety, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo D.O.C. can present
itself to the neophyte with characteristics so varied as to make one wonder why all these radically different wines go by the
same name.
Tocco di Casauria, a small town of the Abruzzi region (in the province of Pescara) has always produced a Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo with qualitative characteristics that brand it as unique among wines produced in other areas of the Abruzzi. Within
this township we find the county of Ceppeto, where the Filomusi Guelfi Estate is situated, and where the microclimate is so
outstanding as to warrant its qualification as a veritable cru.
Filomusi Guelfi’s Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is blessed with a richness and a depth of colour indeed rare. Its bouquet is powerfully
evocative of cherries and currants, its structure firm and concentrated, its taste ample and generous on the palate with a lingering
finish of berries and liquorice. The cellar is located in an historical building that dates back to the end of the fifteenth century,
but the equipment is extremely modern!
The range of wines of the estate also includes a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva, a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cerasuolo (a cherry
red rosé wine) and two whites: Le Scuderie del Cielo (a blend of Chardonnay, Malvasia Bianca Toscana, Sauvignon Blanc and
Cococciola) and Pecorino (made with the homonimous indigenous varietal).
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138
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Cerasuolo DOC
Zone: Tocco di Casauria
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Riserva DOC
Zone: Tocco di Casauria
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Tocco di Casauria
Ceppeto
100% Montepulciano
6.8 hectares
45,000 bottles
139
CAMPANIA
Viticulture and wine making are an ancient tradition in Campania: the Greeks founded “Pitechusae” on the island of Ischia
around 770 b.C. and “Cuma” on the coast in 750 b.C., introducing their own vine varietals and probably domesticating types
of vines that were found in the area. Wine was quite different in those days as a number of aromatic herbs, honey and even sea
water were added as preservatives and to counteract acidity. It was also used as a remedy against many ailments (for example
red hot gold leaf was added to ease the suffering of lepers) and to disinfect wounds. During the Roman times, Pompei was
considered the capital of wine and the wines produced in Campania the best (Falerno and Massico were the ones with the
highest reputation) and served at the Roman emperors banquets. The Greeks introduced the art of pruning and, as today, there
were renowned vintages, production zones and even cooperatives. Rome had a port and a market especially dedicated to wine.
It is not by chance that southern Italy was also known as “Enotria” (the land of wine)! Viticulture was especially developed
along the coastal zones as wine was mainly carried on ships stored in clay amphorae (in case you visit the Eolian island of
Lipari, do not miss the archeological museum, where you can see a great number of these amphorae recovered from shipwrecks).
The majority of the indigenous varietals that are grown nowadays in Campania date back to the Roman and Greek period, as
testified by the historians of the time. Although viticulture in this region has had mixed fortunes and many indigenous varietals
were lost especially due to phylloxera (and the late introduction of resistant rootstocks in comparison to the rest of Italy) and to
the decline of agriculture in general, Campania is one of the areas in Italy where the greatest number of autochtonous varietals
have survived. The wine produced with Greco has been celebrated throughout the centuries and the varietal was grown by the
Romans with the name of “Aminea Gemella”; Aglianico (although there are various schools of thought regarding the origin of
the name) is a distortion of “Hellenico” (Greek); Fiano is probably a corruption of “Apianis” (“apis” meaning bee in Latin) a
grape varietal described by Pliny and Columella; Coda di Volpe (meaning fox tail due to the shape of the clusters) is mentioned
by Pliny the Elder in his “Naturalis Historia” as “Cauda Vulpium”; Falanghina may originate from “Falernina” the grape
varietal from which white Falerno was made; Piedirosso is also found in the works of Pliny.
Coastal viticulture, that thrived during the Roman times, was in great part abandoned, also due to the pressure of urban areas,
and this explains why high quality wines are now produced in inland zones such as Irpinia or Benevento. In fact three out of four
appellations that were awarded the DOCG status are in the province of Avellino (i.e. Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino and Greco di
Tufo), also called Irpinia after the tribe that inhabited this area 3,000 years ago (their totem was the wolf, “hirpus”). This is a
hilly-mountainous area, where winters are relatively mild and summers are cool, there is ideal rainfall and ventilation making
it particularly suitable for viticulture. Harvest is later here in comparison to the rest of Italy, in fact Aglianico is often picked at
the beginning of November under snow. Therefore, the clusters ripen slowly and for a long time resulting in elegant and refined
wines, with a strong personality and that fully express the unusual character of this territory.
Cantina del Taburno, a cooperative that gives technical assistance to 300 small growers in the province of Benevento and that
vinifies the grapes in a modern cellar, is giving great impulse to high quality wine making thanks to Luigi Moio, a well known
and extremely talented oenologist and professor at the University of Naples and now also professor at the Faculty of Oenology
and Viticulture in Avellino.
The estates that have been selected for our portfolio are the ones that best represent the unique and wonderful combination of
knowledge and culture of this land together with the character of these ancient grape varietals: please try and taste all this in a
glass of wine of the Taurasi, or of the Greco di Tufo or of the Lacrima Christi we offer you!
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140
Aglianico
Piedirosso
Sciascinoso
Fiano
Greco
Falanghina
Coda di Volpe
141
Azienda Agricola
Campania
Taurasi is the only truly great red wine from southern Italy. The Aglianico grape from which it is produced was originally planted
by the ancient Greeks that colonized the area (Aglianico being an Italianate distortion of Hellenico, meaning Greek). This is
truly a superb varietal, perfectly suited to southern climates and particularly to the micro-climate of the Taurasi appellation.
Aglianico has a high acidity, is very rich in polyphenols and extract and displays a remarkably deep purple-red color. It does
very well, and is commonly planted, throughout Campania - north, east and south of Naples. But only in the province of Irpinia,
west of Naples, at an altitude of 400-600 meters, in the sheltered enclave and on the volcanic soil of Taurasi, does it achieve
absolute greatness.
The Molettieri estate owns twelve hectares in Montemarano, historically one of the two finest crus of the appellation, at 550 meters
altitude. Perfect ripening here occurs in the first week of November, yielding a wine of powerful authority and concentration.
The estate bottled its first wine with the 1988 vintage, and in its nascent efforts invested all in planting vineyards. Thus, in 1989,
1990 and 1991 all grapes were sold off in order to buy barrels for the following vintages, and the next vintage to be bottled was
the 1992.
Salvatore Molettieri, a man of exquisite generosity, has produced Taurasi the likes of which I have never tasted, of a grandeur
to rival the greatest wines of Piedmont and Tuscany.
Today Salvatore’s estate can be considered one of the finest in Italy.
Taurasi is positively not a frivoulous wine, nor Salvatore makes any concessions to “modern palate”. His Taurasi is born a deep
purple-blue, unrelentingly intense, with a vinous explosiveness rarely equaled in any young wine I have ever tasted. Its primary
aromas are invariably muted, and it begins to acquire a complex bouquet as it expresses its secondary and tertiary aromatics.
Starting in its sixth or seventh year of life this monumental wine begins to display its profound nature, only to improve for a
quarter of a century or more.
Giovanni, Salvatore’s son and an oenological technician, has been working at the estate since 1995.
In order to emphasize the evolution of wine made with Aglianico, since 2005 the range of wines consists of: a Taurasi DOCG
(aged for 3 years in oak); a Taurasi Riserva DOCG (aged for 4 years in oak) and an Irpinia Aglianico DOC (aged for 12 months
in oak). All these wines are finished in the bottle for 5 or 6 months before being released.
Salvatore and Giovanni also supervise the grape production in vineyards in the zones of Tufo and of Lapio from which they
make a Greco di Tufo DOCG and a Fiano di Avellino DOCG.
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142
Taurasi DOCG
Riserva Vigna Cinque Querce
Zone: Montemarano
Cru: Cinque Querce
Varietal: 100% Aglianico
Irpinia Aglianico DOC Cinque Querce
Zone: Montemarano
Cru: Cinque Querce
Taurasi DOCG Vigna Cinque Querce
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montemarano
Cinque Querce
100% Aglianico
3 hectares
15,000-18,000 bottles
143
Campania
Aptly, the tryst began in Burgundy, Antonio Caggiano, owner of the Caggiano estate, a passionate man powerfully dedicated to
wine, took a tasting trip to the Côte d’Or. There his guide turned out to be Luigi Moio, a Neapolitan winemaker (he is now an
highly respected Professor in Oenology at the University of Naples and at other Italian Universities), graduated from Bordeaux,
working in Burgundy. It was friendship at first sight, Antonio promising Luigi to build him the finest estate possible if only he
would return to Naples to help him. Eventually Luigi accepted, Antonio kept his word - his new cellars the most striking of the
whole appellation! - and the adventure began.
Founded in 1990 with the purpose of making the greatest Taurasi possible, and thus reestablishing the remarkable reputation
that Taurasi justly enjoyed in the past, when the appellation was held to be on the par with that of Barolo and Gattinara in
producing one of Italy’s greatest wines, the Caggiano estate vinified its first grapes in 1994. All the while Antonio grappled with
the cyclopic vision of erecting a three leveled cellar entirely hewn from stone (now completed). And from Burgundy he ordered
the finest cooperage.
Vineyards from the finest crus that tradition attested to were bought. Plots of land were also bought and planted with selected
clones of Aglianico, the famous Vitis Hellenica, planted by the Greeks when they colonized southern Italy, whose habitat has
since unquestionably become the Taurasi appellation.
Luigi Moio dedicated himself heart and soul, and as the first wines were born and finally released, they revealed the perfect
complexity expected only from the grand crus of the wine world!
Luigi Moio and I met at the Vinitaly fair, introduced to each other by the Burgundian tonnelier that we share. We tasted each
other’s wine - sparred, as it were - met again and again, and visited and revisited Antonio Caggiano and his splendid estate, still
caught in the stonemason’s grip.
The 1995s and 1996s from the barrel was monumental. The 1994 Taurasi was the finest wine ever to be released in the appellationof that I was sure!
Besides Taurasi, the estate’s range of wines now consists of: two Irpinia Aglianico DOC (Salae Domini and Tarì), a Fiano di
Avellino DOCG (Béchar), a Greco di Tufo DOCG (Devon), two IGT/proprietary whites (Fiagre, a blend of Fiano and Greco,
and a Falanghina wine) and a passito (Mel, a blend of Fiano and of Greco).
Antonio’s son Pino, a trained architect with a passion for wine, now manages the estate together with his father.
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144
Irpinia Aglianico DOC
Tarì
Zone: Taurasi
Cru: Costa
Irpinia Campi Taurasini DOC
Salae Domini
Zone: Taurasi
Cru: Sala
Taurasi DOCG Vigna Macchia dei Goti
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Taurasi
Macchia dei Goti
100% Aglianico
4 hectares
14,000 bottles
Fiano di Avellino DOCG
Béchar
Zone: Lapio
Varietal: 100% Fiano
145
Azienda Vinicola
Campania
Greco, the true blue-blooded Greco, is powerfully appellation bound. That is why the specification “di Tufo”, meaning “from
the town of Tufo” is indissolubly linked to the name of the grape and the wine. Some varietals - take Chardonnay - seem to
perform very well across latitudes and longitudes. Greco, at least as we know it today, digs its heels in and refuses to budge. You
want really good Greco? Must come to Tufo! Once upon a time, I suppose one would have gone to some equally interesting and
specific place in Greece to find “the real thing”. After all Greco means Greek, and it was the crafty Hellenes who colonized the
incomparably rich Neapolitan area in the seventh century B.C. and thought well to bring Greco with them. Wonderfully civilized
of them, of course!
Tufo is just what it is: a volcanic rock which, crumbling, becomes grainy and powerfully informs the soil. The town of Tufo
acquired its name from the tufo rock it is founded upon and its soil, the wine following suit.
Tufo holds humidity very well, keeping its roots cool and well nourished. In Italy it is misteriously linked to white wine alone:
Orvieto, Frascati, Pitigliano, Tufo. The towns and the vineyards stand on tufaceous rock and soil. To see Tufo is to understand:
the very houses of this tiny town perched on a steep hill are built out of tufo bricks.
And you can smell the wine in the soil and sometimes even in the air, for Tufo stands atop now abandoned sulfur mines, and the
tart, gunpowdery bouquet so true of Greco di Tufo often blown through the hills.
Genuine, properly made Greco di Tufo is a bold, impatient wine, charged with nervous energy. How can one describe it? Greco
di Tufo is Fiano’s next door neighbour, yet, surprisingly, its most perfect opposite. If Fiano is shy, subtle and soothing, Greco is
aggressive, indeed reckless. One Apollonian, the other Dionisian, this comes close to the mark.
Tart, with a searing attack, Greco immediately melts honey-like on the palate, finishing, however, with a citric grip - all the while
seducing with mineral suggestions of all kinds. Age will tame this wine somewhat, and it’s a wonder what time will accomplish:
the fine, sharp edge never blunt, but a patina seems to grace its savage features.
Gabriella Ferrara’s Greco is such a wine, born of the slopes of San Paolo di Tufo, heart of this tiny appellation. And her Vigna
Cicogna cru, from 70 year old vines on a full south exposure, seems to concentrate Greco di Tufo’s impetuous nature into
archetype.
Gabriella also makes small quantities of Irpinia Aglianico DOC, of Taurasi DOCG, of Fiano di Avellino DOCG and of two IGT/
proprietary wines, a red (100% Aglianico) and a white (85% Greco and 15% Coda di Volpe).
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146
Greco di Tufo DOCG
Vigna Cicogna
Zone: San Paolo di Tufo
Cru: Vigna Cicogna
Varietal: 100% Greco
Aglianico Campania IGT
Passo del Lupo
Zone: Montemiletto
Greco di Tufo DOCG
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Irpinia Aglianico DOC
Vigna Quattro Confini
San Paolo di Tufo
100% Greco
4.65 hectares
27,000 bottles
Zone: Montemiletto
147
Campania
Fiano is a gentleman’s wine. And it must have always been so. It makes no concessions to today’s ubiquitous “fruitiness”. It
is gentle but firm, smooth, elegant and somewhat reserved. It must be full and rich, but never loud: rather sustained by the
effortless viscosity that is its grip. In aging it gains in stage presence and authority. Authentic Fiano is a rare wine: then it is fine
and subtle and thoroughly rewarding.
At the estate in the Colli di Lapio (this 1st Century A.D. translates to “Hills of Fiano” proving the validity of the growing area)
Clelia Romano has only 6 hectares of Fiano in four splendid tiny plots where, with her family, she bottles roughly 3,700 cases
per year of very fine wine.
At 500 meters altitude ripening is late. Full ripening requires small crops. Fiano’s delicate equilibrium needs splendid grapes,
rich in sugars and extract, to counterbalance the varietal’s naturally high acidity.
There is no other secret to this finest of Fiano. Superlative vineyards, care and integrity.
Clelia also makes a Taurasi DOCG, Andrea, and an Irpinia Aglianico Campi Taurasini DOC, Donna Chiara, named after two of
her grandchildren, having made agreements with growers in the Taurasi area. The family supervises the grape production of 2
hectares of Aglianico, but vinification takes place at the estate. A Greco di Tufo DOCG was recently released and named after
Clelia’s third grandson.
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148
Taurasi DOCG
Andrea
Zone: Venticano
Irpinia Campi Taurasini DOC
Donna Chiara
Zone: Venticano
Fiano di Avellino DOCG
Zone:
Crus:
Colli di Lapio
Scarpone, Chiano, Stazzone,
Compare
Varietal:
100% Fiano
Greco di Tufo DOCG
Alèxandros
Zone: Tufo
Varietal: 100% Greco
149
Campania
All who know me even a little are aware of my passion for the wines of Campania and in particular for the Aglianico varietal.
Like Nebbiolo and Sangiovese it is, and has historically been, exclusive to a very restricted geographical latitude, altitude and
soil. Only in Campania, and in the northernmost area of Basilicata, will it yield truly great wines. Aglianico has only thrived
there, never expanding elsewhere, and even there it has only flourished at high altitudes and exclusively on volcanic soils. Under
these conditions, if elegantly mastered, it produces among the very finest wines in the world. Indeed Aglianico has become my
great oenological love and the “new frontier” to which I have devoted my greatest efforts and the results have always been
exceptional, both with Taurasi and with Aglianico del Vulture. The only missing brushstroke to complete the tableau of the great
Aglianici of Campania, was an Aglianico del Taburno worthy of its name.
When Luigi Moio - winemaker at Caggiano and Aglianico’s greatest technical expert - asked me to visit Cantina del Taburno,
I was thrilled. New agronomists had been hired to oversee the vineyard management of the conferring grape growers, and a
full-fledged laboratory was installed at the establishment. Luigi had been given “carte blanche” for the vinification of all wines:
indeed, selection was so strict that Cantina del Taburno’s production halved in Luigi Moio’s first year as winemaker. Next, the
tasting room: a line-up of white wines confronted me. A brilliant Falanghina, perky with acidity, stilish and pure, was followed
by a Coda di Volpe, warm, generous and true. The Greco was relatively rigorous and shy, slow to reveal itself, to unfold its deep
mineral core. These were all delightful impeccable, unusually fine even by boutique winery standards. Then Luigi poured his
jewels, the late harvest barrel-fermented whites he had achieved from Falanghina and Coda di Volpe, and I was simply stunned.
Never before had I tasted anything like them from Italy, the flavours and bouquets transporting me to Alsace (where, I suddenly
remembered, Luigi Moio had worked with Zind-Humbrecht!). The richness and complexity of the wines and the mastery of the
winemaking was simply superlative.
Lastly I followed Luigi into the cellars, there to taste from stainless steel and a battery of barriques Cantina del Taburno’s three
selections of Aglianico: the regular cuvèe, the barrel fermented Delius and the two barriques of Bue Apis (the entire production
from a 180 year old pre-phylloxera vineyard!). And all three were brilliant examples of Aglianico at its very finest, diamond
pure, exceptional in their own right. The Bue Apis simply breathtaking! With Cantina del Taburno a new star was born. End of
story!
Since it has been included in my selection in 2000, Cantina del Taburno has had a remarkable success worldwide, promoting
high quality wines made with indigenous varietals from Campania. The whites (Falanghina – also in its sparkling version - Coda
di Volpe, Greco and Fiano) are greatly appreciated together with the Aglianico base wines.
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150
Aglianico del Taburno DOP
Fidelis
Zone: Taburno
Aglianico del Taburno DOP
Bue Apis
Zone: Taburno
Taburno Falanghina del Sannio DOP
Zone:
Taburno
Varietal:
100% Falanghina
Falanghina Spumante
Extra Dry VSQ Folius
Zone: Taburno
Varietal: 100% Falanghina
151
Azienda Vinicola
Campania
“Campania Felix” - joyous Campania - as it was already known 2000 years ago, due to the felicitous nature of its soils and
splendid climate, when its wines were already famous, quoted by Pliny, Horace and Ovid, and exported throughout the Roman
Empire - has long been a love of mine. Not only for the extraordinary nature of its ancient and noble varieties, but also for the
exemplary nature of its people, whose openly friendly character seems to effortlessly combine pride, integrity, unparalleled
musical talent and a peculiarly carefree sort of fatalism: God knows it has to be good for wine.
The De Angelis brothers display just such virtues. Combined with the talent and dedication of their winemaker, Angelo Valentino
(former cellarmaster at Caggiano), they make a formidable team.
Three the wines of my passion in this tiny cellar in the heaven that is Sorrento. Mythical wines, spawned at the foothills of the
Vesuvius; red, white and rosato with the same evocative name: Lacrima Christi. All from timeless varietals, planted there, it
seems, since the beginning of time.
The Lacrima red, a purple son of the Piedirosso grape, flamboyantly spicy and gay, quasi Dionysian in its exhuberant convolutions
on the palate - a dancer of a wine, lightfooted, carefree and effortlessly fragrant. A pure, irrepressible and contagious joy!
The Lacrima Christi white, mainly Coda di Volpe, is a tender, feminine creature, velvety and aromatic. Of a silvery, luminous
nature, it teases and caresses the palate, yielding and holding back at once: simply lovely.
The Lacrima Christi rosato, a blend of Aglianico, Piedirosso and Sciascinoso (an indigenous grape varietal of Campania) with
its lovely nose of raspberry and violet and its intense pink colour, is irresistibly fresh and fruity in the mouth.
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152
Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio
Bianco DOC
Zone: Boscotrecase sul Vesuvio
Varietals: 80% Caprettone (Coda di Volpe),
20% Falanghina
Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio
Rosato DOC
Zone: Boscotrecase sul Vesuvio
Varietals: 30% Aglianico, 60% Piedirosso,
10% Sciascinoso
Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio Rosso DOC
Zone:
Varietals:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Boscotrecase sul Vesuvio
70 % Piedirosso, 30% Aglianico
10 hectares
40,000 bottles
153
Vini
Campania
The members of the Iovine family have been viticulturists and have produced wine for four generations since 1890. They own
approximately 15 hectares of vineyards in the Sorrento Peninsula, in Irpinia and in the zone of Benevento, but they also supervise
the vineyards of growers with whom they have worked for many years. Especially in the area of the Sorrento Peninsula, property
is extremely fragmented (some vineyards extend for barely 1 hectare) it is therefore a condicio sine qua non to buy grapes.
The soil is volcanic (made up of deposits of ashes and pyroclastic material from millennia of volcanic eruptions), the vineyards
are steep with a gradient of up to 45% and stand on terraces with a width between 10 and 1.5 meters. The training system is
mainly Pergola Sorrentina, a traditional method which is an integral part of this wonderful landscape. The vineyards can only
be worked, in the best of cases, with motorhoes and with small tractors and, in the most difficult cases, completely by hand. The
harvest is carried out with mules. Needless to say, natural viticulture is pursued and only copper and sulphur base products are
sprayed. The vines (the varietals here are Piedirosso, Aglianico and Sciascinoso also known as Olivella due to the olive shape
of the berries – the average age of the plants is 50 years old) are ungrafted and therefore exclusively Vitis Vinifera Europea,
as phylloxera does not survive in these soils. Each parcel has a little nursery, where the vines with the best characteristics are
propagated by offshoots (called calatoie in the local dialect). The wines are Penisola Sorrentina DOC and made in the Gragnano
and Lettere subzones. Both these zones have a very particular microclimate: the zone of Gragnano is high, the altitude is 400
meters above sea level, it is a natural conch protected by the sea breezes and the Faito mountain creates a wide day-night
temperature range which favoures aromatics and fruitiness in the wines. In fact Aniello, the oenologist of the family, told us that
even in very hot summers nobody uses air conditioning here, as the climate invariably cools off in the evening. The zone of
Lettere stands right above the plain of Pompei and it is subject to the sea winds and breezes, the day night temperature range is
narrower and the wines are sapid. The wines of this area are ancient: they were very much appreciated by the Romans who had
numerous country villas where wine was made and also shipped and later the popes used to drink these wines especially in the
summer. These wines can be defined petit vins, they are not wines to be matched with roasts nor they are to be aged, but they
are a good match with pizza and, although they are red, also with fish and vegetable dishes.
We would like to make you try the wines of Iovine and in particular four Penisola Sorrentina DOC of which three are sparkling.
Bear in mind that these are the typical wines of the Neapolitans, the young Gragnano is released a few months after the harvest
for Christmas. The blend is Aglianico and Piedirosso with approximately 10% Sciascinoso (that favours the second fermentation)
for the sparkling wines and 50% Aglianico and 50% Piedirosso for the non sparkling “Terre delle Sirene”. In Terre del Gragnano
the wine referments in the bottle and it is released in April following the harvest. For the other two sparkling wines, the second
fermentation takes place in an autoclave. A traditional method is used to induce the second fermentation: a small quantity of
must of Falanghina and Coda di Volpe (decanted and kept in refrigerated tanks) together with yeast is added. These wines are
extremely drinkable, pleasant, fruity, the Lettere with a more sapid touch and, as stated by a Neapolitan painter of the 1800s,
“one can drink two bottles without going home drunk…”
Our selection also offers the wines from the Benevento and Irpinia areas.
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154
Penisola Sorrentina Rosso
Gragnano DOC
Zone: Pimonte, Gragnano (Naples)
Varietals: 60% Piedirosso, 30% Aglianico,
10% Sciascinoso
Penisola Sorrentina Rosso
Lettere DOC
Zone: Lettere, Casola (Naples)
Varietals: 50% Piedirosso, 40% Aglianico,
10% Sciascinoso
Penisola Sorrentina Rosso Gragnano
DOC Terra del Gragnano
Zone:
Varietals:
Pimonte (Naples)
50% Piedirosso, 40% Aglianico,
10% Sciascinoso
Penisola Sorrentina Rosso DOC
Terra delle Sirene
Zone: hilly area of the Sorrento Peninsula
Varietals: 50% Piedirosso, 50% Aglianico
155
PUGLIA
Vines were grown and wine was made since 2000 BC by the Phoenicians followed by the ancient Greeks who colonized southern
Italy between the VIII and VII Century BC. The wines of this region were very much appreciated by the ancient Romans as
reported by Pliny the Elder and by other poets and historians of the time. Frederic II Hohenstaufen, who built the beautiful
“Castel del Monte” castle in 1240, was an “ante litteram” wine enthusiast. Viticulture flourished during the medieval times
and in the following centuries. Up to 1919, when unfortunately the vineyards were hit by Phylloxera also in this region, great
quantities of Apulian wine were sent to northern Italy and to France to make up for the lower production due to the terrible
aphid. It then took a lot of hard work and many years in order to replant the vineyards and to recover the grape varieties.
The Apulians give a lot of importance to good food: in fact the cuisine of this region is unique. Just to give you a couple of
examples, during Easter the hostesses of the Apulian “masserie” (or estates) have contests on who can produce the major
amount of courses for the Easter lunch without using a freezer! A McDonald’s restaurant had to close down in the town of
Altamura because the inhabitants, quite rightly so, preferred the autochtonous “focaccia”: pensioners used to buy a piece of
“focaccia” and eat it in the McDonald’s restaurant only because it had air conditioning (the summers are extremely hot in this
region)!
Although wine production in this region has followed criteria of quantity rather than quality for a very long time, many producers
are now focussing on the recovery and improvement of the indigenous varietals and on the production of high quality wines with
extremely interesting results. Our selection offers you lovely wines from two lovely zones: the “Castel del Monte” appellation,
where the homonymous castle stands, and the Salento Peninsula, the “heel of Italy”, where one can visit the breathtaking
baroque town of Lecce.
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156
Uva di Troia
Negroamaro
Primitivo
Fiano
157
Puglia
On the Adriatic coast in the region of Puglia about sixty kilometres south of the spur of Italy’s boot lies the port town of Trani.
In full daylight the clean bright whiteness strikes the eye. At sunset, instead of the usual yellow and orange hues, the town turns
a delicate pink. The entire port enclosure is constructed above and below from Pietra di Trani, a local white marble-like stone.
The Romanesque Abbey of Santa Maria di Colonna, of the same reflective stone, rests massively and immaculately at shore’s
edge. These sights are seen often by Roberto Capano, a world-class yachtsman, whether sailing into Trani or looking out from
its solitary restaurant. In fact, this view has been shared by Perrone Capanos since the early 17th century, and for these same
four hundred years viticulture has been part of the family.
Twenty kilometers inland from Trani, just beyond the town of Corato and rising 300 meters above is the Santa Lucia farm. A few
kilometers further and rising higher, stands the extraordinary octagonal castle built by the Swabian emperor Friedrich II, visible
except on the rare cloudy day. It is from this singular structure that Castel del Monte D.O.C. gets its name. Here, the summers
are long and hot, so hot that one’s spirit sags and wilts. The single-level villa of about 300 square meters - from the same Pietra
di Trani and dating back to the arrival of the family - has walls so thick that a complete bathrooom was carved into one. Inside
it is cool and in the subterranean cellar the temperature is never above 16° C, even in the hottest July and August days. But the
most unusual aspects of this estate, so unusual as to be almost unheard-of, are its dimensions and the methods of production.
Puglia is completely dominated by co-op wineries where production is more and more in the hands of the beverage industrialists,
and qualitatively vacillates between wines that are stripped and nondescript and those that are baked and dirty and still nondescript,
Santa Lucia consists of 11 hectares of vineyard producing approximately 50,000 bottles per harvest; a small production by any
standards, but minuscule by Puglia’s. The vineyard is worked as if it were a garden, by hand and by people who know every
plant and the idiosyncrasies of each nook and cranny. Vineyard density is 5,500 vines per hectare, Guyot and cordon spur are
the vine training systems.
The red grape of this area is Troia (Troy), which like its western cousins in Campania, Greco and Aglianico, has its origins
in Greek antiquity. Aging of Santa Lucia Castel del Monte Rosso is mostly in large Slavonian oak casks and lasts for about 8
months, followed by 8 months in glazed cement tanks, after which it rests in the bottle for 6 more months. The Castel del Monte
Riserva sees 18 months of French oak barriques and rests 12 months in bottle. Because Castel del Monte is rarely made with
the care exercised by the Perrone Capano family, with the intent of expressing fresh varietal character, it is rather impossible
to judge it comparatively: the wines are simply different than those of Tuscany or even Abruzzo, one wonders at the unique but
lovely vinosity and aromas. The Rosso is dark and luscious with a medium body betrayed by a full feel on the palate. The Riserva
is finer, more tantalizing and longer finishing. In their price class these wines are hard to beat.
The estate also offers an interesting Fiano named “Gazza Ladra” after the opera of Rossini and a Puglia Aleatico.
Since 2001 the estate’s winemaker, Luigi Cantatore, is supported by the oenologist Paolo Caciorgna, who consults for many
southern Italian wineries.
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158
Castel del Monte Rosso DOC
Riserva Le More
Zone: Corato
Cru: Tenuta Castigliola
Varietal: 100% Uva di Troia
Fiano di Puglia IGT
Gazza Ladra
Zone: Corato
Cru: Santa Lucia
Varietal: 100% Fiano
Castel del Monte Rosso DOC
Vigna del Melograno
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Corato
Vigna del Melograno, Viale Nero
100% Uva di Troia
5 hectares
30,000 bottles
159
Puglia
I met Giordano Emo Capodilista during a sailing cruise at the Egadi islands in Sicily. Giordano, whose mother is from Lecce,
and Francesco Marra, an agronomist and a “DOC Leccese” established the estate in 2005.
Masserie Pizari is in the “heel” of Italy in southern Salento, between Gallipoli and Leuca, in the Feudo d’Ugento (the ancient
“Ozan”) in an area where Negroamaro and Primitivo vines have been grown for centuries, in fact there are 3 hectares of vines
“en goblet” that are over 60 years old. The area is called “Conca d’oro” (Golden Conch) and the soils are clayey, red and rich
in potassium. The vineyards are a few kilometers from the sea and it is rare to find such an extension of agricultural land in this
position. Giordano and Francesco are supported by the oenologist (an “orthodox” oenologist according to Giordano) Andrea
Boaretti, a Venetian who is devoted to the Salento region and who consults for other wineries in Puglia.
The cellars, that have been totally restructured, are located right next to the old Salento “Sud-Est” railway and were built in the
1930s by a Piedmontese who used to grow grapes and send them north.
Only the best clusters are used to make the Salento Rosso Negroamaro, the Salento Rosato Negroamaro and the Salento Rosso
Primitivo; grape yield is kept low (as shown by the production of just 33,000 bottles over 10 hectares) and temperature control
in the vats keeps the fermentation process even (which is quite an achievement in such a hot climate!). The result is fresh, fruity
and flawless wines that give a pure taste of this secluded and beautiful part of Italy.
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160
Salento Rosato IGT
Negroamaro
Zone: Ugento
Varietal: 100% Negroamaro
Salento Rosso IGT
Primitivo
Salento Rosso IGT Negroamaro
Zone:
Ugento
Varietal:
100% Negroamaro
Zone: Ugento
Varietal: 100% Primitivo
161
BASILICATA
The “Lucani” or “Lyki” were an ancient population that started growing vines before the Greeks colonized this region. In
fact Basilicata is also known as Lucania. Wine was produced during the Roman times, as stated by Horace and by Pliny the
Elder. The most important area for viticulture and wine making is the Vulture, a volcanic complex which is no more active: the
lakes of Monticchio inside the caldera, are surrounded by thick vegetation and by vineyards, quite a sight to behold! There are
many springs in this zone from which naturally sparkling water flows and this water is bottled and sold throughout Italy. The
Aglianico grape finds an ideal habitat in this area, due to the altitude and the soil and in the Vulture it produces oenological
masterpieces. The wines are often aged in underground natural tuff (“tufo”) caves, that in some cases were used as cellars
by ancient monasteries. Basilicata is certainly “off the beaten track”, but there is a lot to see: ancient castles (do not miss the
castle of Melfi, built by the Normans and later enlarged by Frederich the Second Duke of Swabia), high mountains (visit the
Pollino National Park), thermal spas, beautiful beaches, the unique town of Matera the historical centre of which is dug into a
calcarenitic rock ravine, many lovely museums and much more. The food here is also unique: traces of the many populations
that came to this region from far lands (Phoenicians, Greeks, Arabs, Albanians, Normans, Spanish, French) are still found in
the dishes one can taste.
◊
162
Aglianico
163
Basilicata
Apart from Irpinia and the province of Benevento in Campania, the best expressions of the Aglianico varietal are found on the
slopes of the Vulture volcano in Basilicata. Frederick the Second of Hohenstaufen, emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, built
castles in this area and introduced the art of falconry (performances can still be seen today). The emperor used to say that if the
God of the Jews had known these districts he would not have made Palestine the promised land.
The estate is owned and run by Donato D’Angelo - an oenologist whose family has made Aglianico del Vulture wines for
generations - and by his wife Filomena - who grew up in the wine world and who has a degree in viticulture and oenology.
Donato was trained at Conegliano Veneto (one of the best schools in Italy) and he was one of the first to use barriques in southern
Italy in the 1980s.
The azienda boasts 20 hectares of vineyards in the classical zones of Aglianico del Vulture, Ripacandida and Maschito. The
soil here is volcanic and the altitude is 500-550 meters above sea level, two conditions that are ideal for this varietal. The
vinification is traditional: destemming and crushing of the clusters, maceration and fermentation in steel and in glazed concrete
vats. Concrete does not disperse heat as, differently from other areas of southern Italy, the problem here is to keep the must warm
during fermentation, bear in mind that Aglianico is harvested at the end of October. The wine then rests in large Slavonian oak
casks (50 hectolitres) and in used French oak barriques, the Aglianico “base” for 12 months, the “riserva” for 24 months. No
new wood is used in order to keep the character of the grapes intact.
The philosophy of Donato and of Filomena is to make wines that respect and reflect this unique terroir: Aglianico is a wine that
must be understood, but once you get to know and appreciate its tightly knit tannins, its freshness and its wonderful and typical
notes of green pepper and underbrush berries you will be captured! This Aglianico del Vulture is definitely the best that this area
can offer: try it with rich or fat dishes, the tannins and the acidity will perfectly clean your mouth and you will want to repeat
the experience!
◊
164
Aglianico del Vulture DOC
Donato D’Angelo
Zone: Ripacandida, Maschito
Basilicata IGT
Balconara
Zone: Ripacandida
Varietals: 50% Aglianico,
50% Cabernet Sauvignon
Vineyarsd Ext.: 5 hectares
Aglianico del Vulture DOC
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Ripacandida
100% Aglianico
10 hectares
50,000 bottles
165
SICILY
Sicily, due to its history, its art and its climatic, geographic and geological characteristics is very different from the rest of Italy
and more than a region it could be considered a “universe”.
Fruit and vegetables have another taste here and to sample the dishes of the extremely diverse and rich Sicilian traditional
cuisine is an unforgettable experience: the influence of the Greek, Arab, Spanish, and French dominations mingle and result in
flavours that are impossible to find anywhere else. The original recipes are improved as, for example, fish couscous which is a
Sicilian “piatto forte”. Even the salt from the ancient saltworks of Mothia near Trapani is one of the most flavourful of the whole
Mediterranean. And what to say about the divine “granite” (crushed ice flavoured with fruit or almond paste) or the mouthwatering “gelo di melone” (a delicious watermelon jelly)?
Fossil vines, dating back to the tertiary period, were found on the slopes of the Etna. Before the Greeks (who occupied Sicily
between 800 and 500 b.C. and who improved viticulture and wine making), vines were grown by the “Siculi” a population from
peninsular Italy. They used to venerate “Adranos”, the god of wine (and Adrano is the name of a large town on the southern
slopes of the Etna), long before the introduction of the Greek “Dionysos”.
Sicilian wines started being exported throughout the Mediterranean during the IV century b.C. and were greatly appreciated by
the Romans.
Under the Arab domination viticulture was restricted to the production of raisins (hence the name “uva sultanina” meaning
“sultan’s grape”) even though the population continued to drink wine (its consumption was forbidden in public). Strangely
enough the Arabs introduced the technique of distilling wine and pomace, but mainly for medicinal purposes.
Fortunately there were better times for wine: in 1700s and 1800s wines from the Etna were exported to the whole of Europe from
the port of Riposto, and Marsala wine has become famous thanks to John Woodhouse, Benjamin Ingham and Vincenzo Florio.
Phylloxera that ravaged the island in 1880-1881 and the recent massive introduction of international grape varietals sadly
caused the loss of many indigenous Sicilian grape varietals, that had adapted to the climatic and soil conditions over the
centuries. Although the Sicilian territory would be more suitable for the production of red wines, 75% of the varietals at present
grown are white.
The production of bulk wine is still predominant and the growers who bottle are a small percentage, but there is now more
awareness of the value of autochtonous grapes and many more high quality wines are being made.
We would like to invite you to taste the “real thing” having selected estates in the zones where indigenous varietals have survived
and where wine is still made respecting tradition: the Etna, Siracusa, the island of Pantelleria, the area of Trapani and that of
Ragusa. These areas are profoundly different the one from the other and give you an idea of how unique the island of Sicily is. All
this is reflected in the wines: your senses can be intrigued by a “burgundian” Etna Rosso, a luscious Nero d’Avola, a wonderfully
aromatic Moscato di Siracusa or a sensuous Passito di Pantelleria!
◊
166
Nerello Cappuccio
Nerello Mascalese
Nero d’Avola
Frappato
Grillo
Catarratto
Carricante
Moscato Bianco
Moscato di Alessandria
167
Sicily
Tenuta delle Terre Nere is the fruit of over 30 years of passion and work in the world of fine wine. And an extraordinary location,
as well - this “island within an island” that is the Etna – that my brother and I chose. And that, I sometimes believe, actually
chose us. A place where nature is prodigal but also severe. And here I try with all my heart to express as purely as possible the
refined and multifaceted microcosm of this ancient volcanic land. With respect, care and hard farm work, always in organic
balance.
The estate is located on the northern slopes of the volcano, with vineyards between the village of Solicchiata and the town of
Randazzo, the area historically recognized as the finest in the appellation for fine red wines. The property consists of over 30
hectares, divided into 10 parcels in four crus, with a total vineyard surface of 23 hectares, which we mean to enlarge to 30-32
hectares. Except for 6 hectares recently planted, the vines of the rest are between 50 and 100 years old. The vines of one parcel,
having survived phylloxera, have reached the venerable age of 130-140 years old. The soils differ very much from cru to cru,
and even within the crus themselves. The same is true of the altitudes, our vineyards ranging between 600 and 1,000 metres
above sea level.
Four parcels lie in Calderara Sottana at an elevation of 600-700 metres. By far the rockiest cru in the appellation, in the roughest
parts you can’t see the soil for the black volcanic pumice carpeting the vineyards.
Two vineyards lie in Guardiola, between 800 and 900 metres altitude, on very poor soil: volcanic sand mixed with basaltic
pebbles and traces of ash. Both are steeply sloped and tightly terraced, causing all vineyard work to be done manually.
Two more properties lie in Feudo di Mezzo. Very old vines, also terraced, traditional alberello plantings, very tightly spaced,
also worked exclusively by hand. Loose deep volcanic ash roughed up by a good measure of small volcanic pebbles.
In Santo Spirito we have two vineyards as well. Although adjacent to Guardiola, the soil is dramatically different: a rich deep
volcanic ash so fine as to call to mind talcum powder, were it not jet black.
Besides estate owned vineyards, Terre Nere has long term leases on 4 hectares and buys grapes from small local vignerons who
follow our organic procedures.
All our wines are produced from local varieties, and all are D.O.C. Etna. We produce two versions of Etna Bianco. One from a
field blend of Carricante, Catarratto, Inzolia and Grecanico. The other, from Carricante alone, is barrel fermented.
Our remarkable Etna Rosso issues from both old and young vines of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio throughout our
properties, and some acquired grapes as well.
The very much sought after Etna Rosato, cherished for its luminous and mineral nature, is also produced from Nerello Mascalese.
The very finest grapes from the oldest vines in our four crus are vinified and bottled separately after 16-20 months of wood
aging. These single-vineyard bottlings represent the finest expression of the Etna appellation.
Finally, a word must be spent on our Etna Rosso Prephylloxera. Born of a tiny parcel in Calderara Sottana, whose vines survived
phylloxera, it is the quintessence of Nerello Mascalese and Calderara Sottana, and by extension, the heart and soul of this
volcanic terroir.
◊
168
Etna Bianco DOC
Cuvèe delle Vigne Niche
Zone: Castiglione di Sicilia, Randazzo,
Milo, Biancavilla
Varietal: 100% Carricante
Etna Rosso DOC
Santo Spirito
Zone: S. Spirito District,
Castiglione di Sicilia
Cru: S. Spirito
Varietals: 98% Nerello
Mascalese,
2% Nerello Cappuccio
Etna Rosso DOC Prephylloxera
- La Vigna di Don Peppino -
Etna Rosso DOC
Calderara Sottana
Zone:
Cru:
Varietals:
Calderara Sottana District, Randazzo
La Vigna di Don Peppino
Zone: Calderara Sottana District, Randazzo
Cru: Calderara Sottana
Varietals: 98% Nerello Mascalese,
169
Sicily
This small estate on the northern slope of Mount Etna was recently established by Marco de Grazia, owner of the nearby Tenuta
delle Terre Nere. “Establishing Le Vigne di Eli - Marco says - was effortless. A simple act of love towards my little daughter
Elena (Eli). It happened in 2006. I was offered first one, then another, tiny vineyard, both in exceptional crus: Feudo di Mezzo
and Moganazzi-Voltasciara. I bought them, and since the parcels were so small and fine, I was somehow reminded of Elena. Thus,
Le Vigne di Eli was born. To use Elena’s drawings as labels came naturally because I love her art work. And equally naturally
came the impulse to have this “child’s estate” be a help to children in need. Thus a substantial part of the small proceeds go to a
childrens’ hospital, the Ospedale Pediatrico Meyer in Florence. With this, the “children’s project” came full circle.
Today, seeing the growing appreciation for Eli’s very fine wines, I’ve selected more tiny parcels of outstanding quality,
contracting them, and releasing a bit more very fine wine. This includes a lovely Etna Bianco from a vineyard in Milo. And in
the future I know I’ll surely be tempted by other precious little parcels. We’ll just have to wait and see.”
Etna Rosso Moganazzi-Voltasciara is made from a small parcel in the township of Castiglione di Sicilia. The vineyard stands at
an altitude of 700 meters above sea level, the vines are over 80 years old, the soil is made up of volcanic ash with black pumice
and volcanic rock.
Two parcels yield the grapes that go into Etna Rosso Pignatuni. From 2014 there will be a third. The vineyards are adjacent,
the vines over 60 years old. The vineyard maintenance is organic and impeccable. The soil very much like a “little Calderara”:
extremely stony, but a smaller, more pebbly sized stones, and at 650 metres altitude. Pignatuni’s wine stands to Calderara’s much
like a Barbaresco would stand to a Barolo: it has a princely finesse rather than a regal authority. An elegance rare even for an
appellation as elegant as Etna.
Etna Rosso San Lorenzo is made from 0,30 hectares of vineyard in the homonymous district within the township of Randazzo.
The vines are over 55 years old, the altitude is 750 meters above sea level, the soil is almost unalloyed volcanic sand. We rarely
produce more than three barrels. The wine from this cru is particularly rich, with very soft tannins, making it a velvety and
voluptuous to the palate.
These three Etna Rosso Crus all mature for 18 months in oak and are not filtered before being bottled.
The entry level Etna Rosso comes from a vineyard in the Savina cru, just South-West of Calderara Sottana. Not only has it the
structure and depth of its old vines, but that ineffable identity that comes from a single vineyard. Good drinking indeed.
The Etna Bianco is made exclusively with Carricante grapes of a vineyard in Milo, just one hectare, at 750 meters above sea
level. After cold maceration on the skins, it is vinified and ages in large oak casks and in tonneaux for 10 months and is released
after 8 months of finishing in the bottle.
However, in a recently bought parcel of Moganazzi-Voltasciara the estate decided to plant Carricante and Catarratto. Soon,
therefore, these grapes will be blended into the Vigne di Eli’s Etna Bianco cuvèe.
◊
170
Etna Rosso DOC Pignatuni
Zone: Randazzo
Cru: Pignatuni
Etna Rosso DOC
Zone: Randazzo, Castiglione di Sicilia
Etna Rosso DOC Moganazzi
Volta Sciara
Zone:
Cru:
Varietals:
Castiglione di Sicilia
Moganazzi - Volta Sciara
Etna Bianco DOC
Zone: Milo
Varietal: 100% Carricante
171
Sicily
The Azienda Agricola Pupillo is a remarkably beautiful estate, adjacent to Syracuse. Dating back to the 12th century, the
property has belonged to the Pupillo family for four generations and today it is managed by Nino Pupillo and his daughter
Carmela.
On its 20 hectares of vineyards, the estate mostly produces Moscato di Siracusa in its three possible variations – dry, semi-sweet
and sweet. But also a delightfully graceful Nero d’Avola, truly refreshing after all the “muscular” and over-baked examples that
have invaded and vexed the wine world.
Moscato di Siracusa is a very ancient wine from a very ancient grape which has virtually disappeared, until the Pupillo family
decided to bring it back to life and re-establish its legendary pedigree. A difficult wine, Muscat, because of its often overbearing
aromatics. Yet in Syracuse it appears to have found a wonderful habitat.
The dry Moscato is one of my all around favourite white wines. Wonderfully aromatic, yet bone dry and never cloying, it is very
simply pure, and a pure joy to drink. It dances on the palate and frolics on the senses. I suspect Walt Disney was in the aftermath
of a whopping overdose of the stuff when he cartooned his fabled vision of Pink Elephants! Drink it in winter and spring will
invade your world.
The semi-sweet has an Alsatian vendange tardive angle to it. Splendid aperitif, and I just know it is lovely by moonlight.
Seriously good.
The sweet passito Moscato is just what its supposed to be: a son of the Mediterranean sun. Rich and almost obsessively
lingering, evocative of orange blossoms, jasmine, cardamom and myrrh – “all the perfumes of Arabia”. Here we’re traveling in
the land of Rumi and Omar Khayyam! Not a bad place to be.
◊
172
Moscato di Siracusa DOC
Pollio
Zone: Siracusa
Cru: Gran Vigneto del Molino
Varietal: 100% Moscato Bianco
Moscato di Siracusa DOC
Solacium
Zone: Siracusa
Cru: Favaraggio, Fosso
Varietal: 100% Moscato Bianco
Bianco di Sicilia IGT Cyane
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Siracusa
100% Moscato Bianco
the vineyards vary depending on
the vintage
Sicilia Rosso IGT
Re Federico
Zone: Siracusa
Cru: Podere 27
Varietal: 100% Nero d’Avola
173
Sicily
Centonze Srl was established in 1998 by a family of oenologists, Giovanni Centonze together with his son and daughter Nicola
and Carla. Giovanni is a well known Sicilian oenologist and former president of the Association of Sicilian oenologists.
Nicola studied viticulture and oenology at Conegliano Veneto (considered one of the best university level courses in Italy) and
set up a consultancy company together with Vincenzo Bambina, also a very well known Sicilian winemaker, in 2000.
Nicola consults for a number of estates located in the most suitable zones for viticulture throughout Sicily and follows all phases
of production from the planting of the vineyards to the bottling of the wines. At these estates the best grapes in the best vineyards
standing in the most significative terroirs are chosen, vinified and bottled with the label of Centonze. Approximately 20 hectares
of vineyards belong to the company in the area of Trapani.
The wines are mainly made with indigenous varietals, Grillo, Nero d’Avola, Frappato, Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria). The
range also includes the only DOCG wine in Sicily, Cerasuolo di Vittoria (the blend being Nero d’Avola and Frappato), that
dates back to 1606 when the town of Vittoria was founded by Vittoria Colonna Henriques daughter of the viceroy of Sicily. This
Cerasuolo (from “cerasa”, cherry in Sicilian dialect), entirely vinified in steel, is extremely pleasant and drinkable, with delicate
floral and fresh red fruit notes.
The philosophy of the company is to offer wines that express at best the various Sicilian terroirs, but that can, at the same
time, be easily appreciated and understood. Nicola and Giovanni, supported by Vincenzo Bambina, have given an important
contribution to modern winemaking in the region and the Centonze label is a guarantee for high quality and typicality.
Tasting these wines will make you experience a tour of Sicily that I am sure you will find highly rewarding!
◊
174
Sicilia IGT
Nero d’Avola
Zone: Western Sicily
Varietal: 100% Nero d’Avola
Sicilia IGT
Frappato
Zone: Eastern Sicily
Varietal: 100% Frappato
Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG
Zone:
Varietals:
Average Prod.:
Eastern Sicily
60% Nero d’Avola, 40% Frappato
12,000 bottles
Sicilia IGT
Grillo
Zone: Trapani
Varietal: 100% Grillo
Type of Viticulture:
Cerasuolo di Vittoria: Certified Organic.
Other wines: Integrated / Sustainable
175
Azienda Agricola
Sicily
The island of Pantelleria is a luminous volcanic fragment that lies at the center of the Mediterranean Sea, between the continents
of Europe and Africa, exactly 40 nautical miles from Cape Mustafà in Tunisia and 60 nautical miles from Cape Granatola in
Sicily.
The climate is humid and windy, the predominant Scirocco and Maestrale blowing hard most of the year. Mean temperature is
25°Celsius in August, at harvest, and rainfall, at a yearly 349 mm, is the lowest in Europe.
The island’s noble varietal is Muscat of Alexandria, planted in individual “conche” (dugouts), 20 cms deep, in order to protect
the vines from the wind. The grape was most probably brought to Pantelleria by the Arabs around 800 A.D. - though previous
vineyards planted by the Greeks certainly existed, and a Passito was equally produced - and was employed to produce raisins as
well as wine. In fact, the grape is locally known as Zibibbo, “Zebib” being the arabic for raisin. And still today, notwithstanding
a growing agricultural depression, Zibibbo remains the island’s farming staple, both in raisin form and in wine. Indeed, the only
significant wine of the island - aside from small quantities produced for local consumption - is Passito di Pantelleria, a wine
produced from dried grapes, obviously the finest expression of this Muscat.
The Ferrandes family is of Spanish descent, established in Pantelleria in the 15th century. The tradition of producing Passito
di Pantelleria, possibly Italy’s most ancient dessert wine and the island’s claim to fame, was passed on from father to son and
is perpetuated today by Salvatore Ferrandes. The estate’s entire production (of raisins as well as wine), is strictly organic. The
Muscat grapes, carefully open-air dried for two weeks against lava stone walls, are crushed and then fermented in tiny vats given the 2,500 litre production! - deep in the estate’s 17th century cellars. The wine decants and is left to mature for 1 year
minimum, whereupon it is bottled.
The result is unique and truly remarkable. And, indeed, in mythology we find the Carthaginian goddess Tanit (Carthage being
the closeby current day Tunis), substituting divine Ambrosia with the ancient Passito from Pantelleria (following Aphrodite’s
advice!), in order to seduce much desired Apollo, the inflexible Lord of the shining sun.
The wine’s colour is a rich gold with deep amber hues. The bouquet is powerfully aromatic, clearly reminiscent of dried apricots
and figs, hazelnuts and vanilla, layers upon layers of spice and musk - an unforgettable fragrance! On the palate it is honey-rich
and deep-toned, a divinely lingering wine, truly embodying the full solar sensuality of the Mediterranean spirit.
For this jewel, as for all Sicilian wine and experience, I am deeply indebted to my friend and excellent winemaker Salvatore
Foti.
◊
176
Passito di Pantelleria DOP
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Pantelleria
Moscato di Alessandria
1.6 hectares
2,500 litres
177
THE STAFF OF
MARC DE GRAZIA SELECTIONS
Co-Director:
Mr Sebastian de Grazia
Ms Mery Paternò
mery@marcdegrazia.com
Tax Consultant and Head of the Department:
Mr Francesco Marconcini
Accountant: Ms Sandra Giannelli
sandra@marcdegrazia.com
Ms Valentina Barbieri
valentina@marcdegrazia.com
Accountant: Mr Dario Zenti
dario@marcdegrazia.com
Mr Gabriele Corsi
gabry@marcdegrazia.com
Secretariat-General Services
Accountancy Department
Founder and Managing Director:
Mr Marc de Grazia
Ms Elisa Cambi
elysa@marcdegrazia.com
Sales Co-ordination
Ms Letizia Simoncini
lety@marcdegrazia.com
Editing, Website
Ms Lucia Borchi
lucia@marcdegrazia.com
Ms Susan Michahelles
susan@marcdegrazia.com
Ms Martina Vogt
marty@marcdegrazia.com
UK Market
Ms Bianca Novakovic
bianca@marcdegrazia.com
Ms Luciana Girotto
malvasia1@aol.com
178
Producer and Client Co-ordination
Ms Patrizia Chiari
patry@marcdegrazia.com
Mr Antonio Ciccarelli
antonio@marcdegrazia.com
deGrazia Imports LLC (US Market)
President: Ms Anne Zakin
anne@marcdegrazia.com
anne@degraziaimports.com
C.O.O.: Ms Stacy Sherman
stacy@marcdegrazia.com
stacy@degraziaimports.com
Western Regional Manager: Mr Robert Tucker
cybertuck@aol.com
robert@degraziaimports.com
Eastern Regional Manager: Mr Ross Bouchard
ross@degraziaimports.com
Accounting & Compliance: Ms Julie Wipff
julie@degraziaimports.com
Italian
English
French
German
Spanish
Croatian
Languages Spoken
Marc de Grazia Selections S.r.l.
Address: Borgo degli Albizi, 10 - 50122 Firenze (Italia)
Tel: +39.055.200311 Fax: +39.055.20031250
General E-mail address: selections@marcdegrazia.com
Web page: www.marcdegrazia.com
179

the wines of italy - Marc de Grazia Selections

Transcription

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