Lynmar 2011 Pinot Noir - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Transcription

BuyingGuide
2013
August
A cabernet sauvignon vine at
monte xanic winery in Mexico’s
valle de guadalupe wine region
IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE
TERI LYN FISHER
2 mexico
40 argentina
62 Northern italy
13 california
44 Portugal
71 central italy
31 oregon
50 Spain
75 tuscany
34 idaho
53 Rhône valley
76 other italy
35 virginia
54 Beaujolais
78 Spirits
37 new york
55 burgundy
80 Beer
39 other america
60 piedmont
for additional ratings and reviews, visit buyingguide.WineMag.com
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buyingguide
mexico
an update on the wine revolution
A
year after visiting the up-and-coming wine scene in Baja California to report on it for our October 2012 issue (“The Mexican Wine
Revolution”), I traveled again to Mexico City in April to blind-taste
more than 50 Mexican wines currently being exported to the United States.
While the tasting revealed a mixed bag of quality, among my 40 top wines
are some very good reds in the ripe, modern California style, as well as
crisp, food-friendlywhites devoid of oak aromas or flavors.
My average rating of the wines in the tasting, which was staged at Vinícola Urbana— Mexico City’s first urban winery and wine-oriented event
space—was 85.6 points, or “Good” on the Wine Enthusiast rating scale.
The overall quality of the wines is apparent, and the variety of grapes and
styles produced offers many options for traditional and adventerous wine
lovers alike, but global recognition of Mexico as a quality-wine-producing
country has lagged behind.
Known worldwide for its Tequila and beer exports, Mexico has long
maintained a largely industrial-driven, commercial wine industry. However, over the past 20 years, Baja’s Valle de Guadalupe region, located 90
chardonnay
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Cava Maciel 2012 Vino de Luna Chardonnay (Valle de Guadalupe). This was my top
Mexican white wine from a recent tasting. It’s light and
clean on the nose, with apple and just a touch of brininess. This shows off a good body with weight and acidic
balance. Pear, papaya and dry melon are the key flavors,
followed by vanilla and toast on the finish. Wines From
Baja. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
85
Casa de Piedra 2012 Piedra del Sol
Chardonnay (Valle de Guadalupe). While
this wine is unoaked, it still carries a strong whiff of sulfur and popcorn that doesn’t really dissipate. The palate offers good feel and is balanced between weight and
acidity. Flavors of melon and applesauce are round and
end in a swirl of sweet pear. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 11.8%
Price: $26
83
Vinicola Urbana 2011 Xikbal Chardonnay (Valle de Guadalupe). This Chardonnay
is a touch volatile on the nose, which deals some gym
sweat and brine. Eventually things break down to dusty,
soft white-fruit aromas. Flavors of banana, papaya and
white pepper end with tropical notes. This is just good
enough. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $21
82
Emevé 2012 Chardonnay (Valle de Guadalupe). This oaky wine opens with a huge pop
of toasty, burnt aromas. It’s resiny feeling, with a creamy
palate. Hard time spent in Hungarian barrels has resulted in flavors of toasty apple, cinnamon and peppery
spices. This lacks harmony. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
2 | wine enthusiast | august 2013
miles south of San Diego near the coastal city of Ensenada, has emerged
as Mexico’s leading zone for boutique, artisan wines.
If Mexican wines are ever to make serious inroads in the U.S., now may
be the right time. A recent Zagat survey of nearly 2,000 frequent restaurant
diners found that Mexican food is the most popular ethnic food in America,
with 54% of respondents saying they eat Mexican food at least once a week.
So next time you’re ordering carnitas, shrimp in a spicy lime broth, or good
old fish tacos, give the wines reviewed in this issue a shot. Your neighbors
to the south (and hopefully you as well) will say gracias.
Elsewhere in this issue, you’ll find hundreds more reviews from the
Americas, including California, Oregon, Idaho, Virginia and New York in
North America and Argentina in the south. From Europe, we review the
latest crop of Proseccos, recent red and white Burgundy releases and selections from Spain and Portugal. And, as always, be sure to check out buyingguide.winemag.com for thousands more reviews from across the globe.
Cheers!
—Michael Schachner
82
Viñas de Garza 2011 Chardonnay (Valle
de Guadalupe). The white wines from Garza
do not equal their reds. This Chardonnay is muddled on
the nose, with corn and oxidized apple aromas. Earthy
flavors of bland fruits are saved by a respectable mouthfeel. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
paya. This is a plump Sauvignon Blanc with mouthfilling weight; it’s a touch mealy in flavor, and no particular
fruits stick out. It’s fine, but short on character. Wines
From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
sauvignon blanc
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Monte Xanic 2012 Viña Kristel Sauvignon
Blanc (Valle de Guadalupe). For full review
see page 9.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
Paralelo 2012 Emblema Sauvignon Blanc
(Valle de Guadalupe). The nose on this Sauvignon Blanc is chunky and shows hints of corn and
baked apple. The body is in good shape, as proper acidity offsets any fat in the wine. Melony flavors match the
texture, and there’s some notorious Baja saltiness to the
finish. This is definitely a food wine. Wines From Baja.
—M.S.
abv: 11.8%
Price: $28
84
Tres Valles 2012 Jalá Blanco Sauvignon
Blanc (Valle de Guadalupe). Mild hints of
tropical fruit are less than convincing. The palate on this
Sauvignon Blanc is round, weighty and offers quiet flavors of melon and spiced apple. The finish remains soft
and a touch bitter. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
other white wines
Monte Xanic 2012 Chenin-Colombard
(Valle de Guadalupe). For full review see
page 9.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
86
Hacienda La Lomita 2011 Espacio En
Blanco Sauvignon Blanc-Chenin Blanc
(Valle de Guadalupe). Like most good Baja whites,
this is done in a crisp, fresh style and offers acidic cut on
the palate. The flavors are pure citrus—mostly lemon,
tangerine and pineapple. This tangy wine narrows on
the finish. Drink with ceviche and raw shellfish. Wines
From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $22
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Vinicola Fraternidad 2011 Nuva (Valle de
Guadalupe). This is a blend of Chardonnay,
Sauvignon Blanc and Moscato that’s yeasty and oaky
on the nose. The mouth is creamy and home to apple,
vanilla and oxidized afterflavors. There’s enough solid
pear and melon involved to make it worthwhile, but you
can’t miss the mature nature of the wine. Wines From
Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $28
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Unión de Productores del Valle (UPVG)
2012 Estacion el Porvenir Sauvignon
Blanc (Valle de Guadalupe). Flat early aromas
seem smoky at first and then more like apple and pa-
Continued on Page 12
The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated
by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified
tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include
Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director
Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa,
Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael
Schachner, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits
Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger
Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome,
California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing
Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa and Contributing Editors
Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Seattle.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s
initials appear following the note. When no initials appear
following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two
or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect
the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits
Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by
Lauren Buzzeo.
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product,
its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by
the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed.
Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
95
Janzen 2010 Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville). This is always one of Janzen’s best bottlings, courtesy of one of the jewels in the Beckstoffer
crown of vineyards. The 2010 is softly tannic and enormously rich, showing wave after wave of blackberry essence, cassis liqueur, dark chocolate and anise notes,
with a firm minerality. It’s beautiful now, but try to keep
your hands off it until at least 2018. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $100
95
Terra Valentine 2010 K-Block Estate
Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring
Mountain). An amazingly delicious Cabernet, this is
so rich and lush in blackberries, black currants, dark
chocolate and minerals, you just want to gulp down
the whole bottle. The grapes are from a portion of the
WurteleVineyard, which consistently produces spectacular Cabernets. The wine is rich enough to drink now
for sheer power, but should easily hold in the bottle for
years, gradually picking up bottle complexity. Only 106
cases were produced. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $65
Tasting Methodology and Goals
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed
blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in
peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in
assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or
uncustomary are retasted.
About the Scores
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
Excellent 90–93:
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:
Acceptable 80–82:
The pinnacle of quality.
A great achievement.
Highly recommended.
Often good value; well recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
points) are not reviewed.
95
Lynmar 2011 Quail Hill Vineyard Summit Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This
is enormously rich, ripe and appealing, with waves of
raspberry and cherry jam, cola, red licorice and smoky
sandalwood flavors that are wrapped into gentle tannins. Comes from a block in the estate vineyard, and
while it doesn’t display dramatic differences from Lynmar’s other blocks, it does highlight the structure and
sheer opulence of all Quail Hill Pinot Noirs. Drink
now–2019. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $70
Special Designations
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent
quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any
price with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae
for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are
generally priced at $15 or less.
Submitting Products for Review
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing
location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.
com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting
& Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@
wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting
products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted
for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted
will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All
samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission
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Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given
the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and
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Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at
buyingguide.winemag.com
95
Williams Selyem 2011 Papera Vineyard
Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). This
is huge in fruit, like Godzilla trampling skyscrapers
underfoot. Yet it’s so exquisitely balanced in all its parts,
it possesses a Zen-like stillness at the center of all these
massive, swirling elements. This is easily Williams Sel
yem’s best Papera Zin yet. So rich in black raspberry
jam, red currant, mocha, pepper and sweet sandalwood
flavors, yet so focused, it just blows your mind. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $52
95
Riglos 2010 Gran Corte Las Divas Vineyard (Tupungato). A year after the 2009 version of Gran Corte was named WE’s Wine of the Year,
this is every bit as good, with more structure and tannins than the ultrarich ’09. This 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec is dense, with marzipan and
blackberry aromas. It’s just creamy enough on the palate, where intense blackberry, black currant, toast and
spice flavors hold court. A firm, driven finish with buttery, toasted richness and dry spice flavors is sensational. Drink through 2018. Paul Hobbs Wines. Editors’
Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
94
Stonestreet 2010 Bear Point Cabernet
Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). At the age
of three years, this Cabernet Sauvignon is still very tannic and closed. It has a solid core of black currants, with
sweet oak and mineral complexities. The structure is
exceptionally refined, and it’s crisp with acidity. A gorgeous wine to age for eight years, if not longer. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
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Anakota 2009 Helena Montana Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley).
This wine is inky black in color and insanely tannic. Yet
it’s massive in blackberries, and clearly of pedigreed origins. It should begin to blossom by 2018, and develop
for years beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
93
Finca El Origen 2009 PHI Single Vineyard (Uco Valley). Immediately this blend
of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Petit Verdot registers as complete and special. Blackberry, cola, licorice and cedary aromas come in front of
a stout-bodied palate with welcoming flavors of blackberry, mocha and vanilla. This is pure yet muscular, with
a lofty combination of mouthfeel, flavor and length on
the finish. Drink through 2019. Carolina Wine Brands
USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $70
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B Cellars 2010 Blend 24 Cabernet Sauvignon-Sangiovese-Petite
Sirah-Syrah
(Napa Valley). The voluptuous texture of this wine
vacillates between velvet and satin, while the flavors are
wildly ripe and delicious. Jammy cherries, blueberries,
plums, dark chocolate, cassis liqueur and espresso flood
the palate, yet somehow the wine retains a balanced elegance without going over the top. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $51
93
Black Stallion 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). A gorgeous Cabernet, this
is easily the winery’s best yet. They held it back long
enough to let it mellow, so that it’s softly tannic, with
blackberry fruit just turning the corner towards complexity. Probably near its peak now, it should be enjoyed
over the next year or two. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $65
Stonestreet 2010 Monument Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). A
lovely Cabernet, ripe and delicious, yet complex enough
to hold your interest. It’s just beginning its journey in
the bottle. Very dark in color, with hard tannins, it has
an immense core of blackberries and cherries. Give it at
least 6–8 years, but it could still be rocking in 2022. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
93
Rocca 2009 Collinetta Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a fine
100% Cabernet that’s solidly in the cult style of soft, lush
tannins, ripe fruit and new oak. It’s rich and extracted,
with blackberries, currants, dark chocolate and spicy
plum flavors that are heady and delicious. Despite all
that, there’s subtlety. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $85
Anakota 2009 Helena Dakota Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley).
This dark, dense Cabernet Sauvignon is extraordinarily
concentrated, with blackberry and black currant fruit,
and superripe suggestions of raisins. It’s very dry and
tannic, but should achieve elegance and balance with
6–8 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
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Rocca 2009 Grigsby Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Yountville). This Cabernet Sauvignon includes 10% Merlot, which brings a cherried
softness to Cab’s black-currant flavors. It’s a tremendous
wine, made in the cult style of exceptional richness, but
with complexity. The southerly Yountville terroir brings
brisk acidity and dense tannins. Too young to appreciate
now, it should develop bottle complexity over the years.
Try after 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $80
B Cellars 2010 Blend 25 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Napa Valley). The Cabernet
Sauvignon is from Calistoga, while the Syrah hails from
Coombsville. It’s a wise blending decision, combining
the ripe chocolate and blackberry flavors of a warm climate with the fine acidity and earthiness of a cooler one.
The wine is dry, but very tannic. Give it up to 10 years to
mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $64
92
Barone Ricasoli 2009 Rocca Guicciarda
Riserva (Chianti Classico). A beautiful
wine (packaged with one of Italy’s most ornate labels),
this Chianti Classico riserva opens with lush aromas
of black cherry and plum backed by balanced notes
of spice and tobacco. The wine shows the traditions of
Tuscany and Sangiovese through the prism of modern
winemaking. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $29
92
Bodegas Caro 2010 Caro (Mendoza).
Caro is a blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. This vintage is balanced from the beginning. Black fruit, oak, balsamic complexity and floral
hints define the bouquet. The nose is backed by a firm
palate with plump edges and dark, oaky flavors of blackberry, vanilla and spice. Some heat rises up on the finish;
drink through 2018. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $63
92
Herdade da Comporta 2010 Parus Tinto
(Península de Setúbal). This is an excellent
wine that is so well balanced. The tannins, the ripe black
fruits and the complex structure are all firmly in place.
This blend, dominated by Alicante Bouschet, is ripe,
juicy, already delicious, but with the potential to age
well. Value Vines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $42
92
Robert Craig 2010 Affinity Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Complex and
well-structured as always, Craig’s ’10 Affinity is a good
follow
up to their ageable 2009. It’s dry, tannic and
elegantlystructured, with a firm minerality anchoring
blackberry and plum fruit flavors. Don’t drink it now;
give it until 2018 to let it begin to express itself. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
92
Stonestreet 2011 Bear Point Chardonnay
(Alexander Valley). Crisp acidity and a fine
minerality give this wine an elegant, clean mouthfeel.
Flavor-wise, it’s rich in pineapple and sour lemon candy,
with hints of pepper and papaya. Honeyed tones unfold
on the midpalate, but the finish is dry. Drink now–2016.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
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Stonestreet 2011 Broken Road Chardonnay (Alexander Valley). A big, vital, complex wine whose multiple layers reveal themselves as
it warms and airs in the glass. With a smooth, creamy
texture and just enough acidity for balance, it’s rich in
apricot-and orange-jam flavors. The finish lingers, with
honey and vanilla accents. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Flora Springs 2010 Trilogy Red Wine
(Napa Valley). Trilogy is the wine that made
Flora Springs famous, and it’s still excellent. Remarkable for its rich approachability, with fabulously ripe
berry, cherry, cassis and chocolate flavors that drink
beautifully now, and will continue to be delightful a few
more years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
92
Silver Trident 2010 Twenty Seven Fathoms Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
This 100% Cabernet is an inaugural release from the
winery that shows lots of promise. Made in the cult
style, it’s soft, opulent and delicious. It tastes higher in
alcohol than labeled, and is lush in blackberries, black
currants and dark chocolate. Beautiful now, and could
develop well for up to 10 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $75
Williams Selyem 2011 Vista Verde Vineyard Late Harvest Gewürztraminer (San
Benito County). Fantastically sweet, with honey, apricot, tangerine, peach and golden-currant flavors. Wonderful acidity and a hint of minerals provide balance to
the richness. Winemaker Bob Cabral suggests pairing
with fruit-based desserts and cheeses. —S.H.
abv: 8.2%
Price: $40/375 ml
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Ziata 2009 Cabernet Franc (Oakville).
This Cabernet Franc hails from the Vaca Mountains, in eastern Oakville. It does not show the typically
powerful, ripe, roasted fruit of the Cabernet Sauvignons
from there. Instead, it’s a delicate wine, with subtle
cherry fruit that has a slightly green, herbal, tea-like
note. It’s an elegant, feminine wine of great charm that
should develop in the bottle for 4–5 more years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Mazzei 2010 Fonterutoli (Chianti Classico). A beautiful wine from a great vintage,
this reasonably-priced Chianti Classico opens with soft
tones of ripe cherry and red fruits backed by spice,
leather and chocolate. The wine shows lush, smooth opulence on the soft yet persistent finish. Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
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Aveleda 2011 Reserva da Família (Bairrada). This is a rich, wood-aged wine made from
a complex blend that includes old-vine Chardonnay.
It’s full and intense, with citrusy acidity leading apricot
and pineapple flavors. It’s a serious wine that needs 2–3
years of aging. Aveleda Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
91
Berlucchi NV Cuvée ’61 Rosé (Franciacorta). A delicate pink color sets the stage for
feminine aromas of pink rose, yeasty baked bread, small
berries, savory forest and pine nut nuances. A fresh citrus note brings life to the finish and helps to enhance
the wine’s sharp and lively perlage. Terlato Wines International. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
Dutton-Goldfield 2011 Dutton Ranch Emerald Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green
Valley). Here’s to the winery’s Green Valley style of
silkiness, tartness and moderate alcohol. In this chilly
vintage, the wine treads that exciting line of barely ripe
fruit, showing hints of green tomato and white pepper
against a backdrop of raspberries and persimmons. It’s
elegant and complex; drink now–2017. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58
Michael Pozzan 2010 Marianna Red Wine
(Napa Valley). A beautiful wine that’s softly
tannic and lush, with intricate waves of blackberries,
cherries, dark chocolate and sweet sandalwood. The
blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $45
Ridge 2011 Three Valleys ZinfandelPetite Sirah-Carignane-Mataro-Alicante
Bouschet-Grenache (Sonoma County). Ridge
hews to a leaner, lower alcohol style than most California wineries these days, resulting in wines that aren’t
blockbusters, but are complex and food-friendly. This
bottling defines such a style. It’s dry and lithe in the
mouth yet gently tannic, with suggestions of berry jam,
bacon, grilled mushrooms and hints of balsamic and soy
sauce. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $26
River Road 2011 Boschetti Vineyard Old
Vine Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). A
lovely Zinfandel, so light in texture and silky in tannins,
you might think it was Pinot Noir. It’s translucent ruby
in color, and tastes as savory as it looks, with raspberry,
cherry, red currant, bacon, sandalwood and spice flavors. Simply delicious for drinking now with grilled
lamb or steak. It’s a mystery how they produced a wine
this good at such an everyday price. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $18
Ross Andrew 2011 Meadow White Wine
(Washington-Oregon). A mixture of vineyard sources from the Columbia Gorge and Willamette
Valley, this (mostly) Pinot Blanc was aged five months in
stainless steel. It’s aromatic and expressive with notes of
apple, spice and flowers. It’s exquisitely balanced, with
the residual sugar (1.9 g/L) playing perfectly off the
electric acidit, and has a finish that just won’t quit. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 12.7%
Price: $18
91
Viñas de Garza 2009 Grimau (Valle de
Guadalupe). This blend of Grenache, Carignan and Tempranillo topped an extensive tasting of
Mexican wines. Lightly stewed plum and raspberry aromas lead to a pure, deep palate loaded with cherry, cassis, chocolate and other ripe flavors. This is calm and
collected in its delivery, with not too much lead on the
pedal. Drink through 2018. Wines From Baja. Editors’
Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $100
91
Vista Hills 2010 Treehouse Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). Fragrant and pleasantly
musky, this is a textural, spicy Pinot Noir with plenty of
cinnamon highlights around wild cherry fruit. The floral, sandalwood and baking spice components are nicely
assembled and yield an easy-drinking, distinctive wine.
—P.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $28
90
Curtis 2010 Heritage Cuvée MourvèdreGrenache-Cinsault-Syrah (Santa Barbara
County). This is a complex wine, with subtle cherry,
licorice, herb and sandalwood flavors that finish dry
and spicy. The balance is impeccable. Blended from
Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah, it’s the winery’s most successful wine of the vintage because the
various varieties fill in the divots each of them individually lacks. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Dewitt 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This is a fine, impressive Cabernet that shows the soft tannins and slight herbaceousness of Alexander Valley, yet is rich in cherry jam, cassis liqueur, chocolate and sweet oak flavors. Feels plush
and fancy in the mouth. Drink soon. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $39
90
Grgich Hills 2011 Fumé Blanc Estate
Grown Dry Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Grgich Hills is better known for Chardonnay and
Cabernet Sauvignon, but this is really a great Sauvignon
Blanc, although they call it Fumé Blanc. The wine is
dry, yet enormously flavorful in citrus and tropical fruits,
with a mouthwatering, savory hit of green gooseberry
followed by creamy, leesy richness. —S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $30
90
90
90
90
Edmeades 2010 Zinfandel (Mendocino
County). With a heady bouquet of berry and
peppery spice, new Edmeades winemaker Ben Salazar
is showing great talent with Mendocino Zinfandel, producing a fairly large-scale bottling full of intense spice
and soft tannins. Graham crackers and oak play gingerly
in the background. This is a wonderful wine and a new
beginning for Edmeades. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $20
Firestone 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Santa Ynez Valley). A lovely Cabernet, soft
and slightly herbal, but elegant, with plenty of foodfriendly character. It’s moderate in alcohol by California
standards, with subtle blackberry and black currant fruit
touched with smoky oak. A nice followup to the equally
fine 2009 vintage. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $22
Henry Fessy 2011 Château des Labourons (Fleurie). This is a ripe and juicy wine,
full of cherry fruit, that also has a sense of structure. It
has tannins that promise some aging as well as the natural fruitiness of Beaujolais. Keep this generous wine for
at least two years. Louis Latour Inc. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
Lost Canyon 2008 Trenton Station Vineyard Syrah (Russian River Valley). Impenetrably black in color and very tannic, this is a big, aloof
Syrah. It’s bone dry and hard to appreciate now, with
elusive blackberry fruit that surfaces briefly, then disappears into a hard finish. The vineyard is in the cool,
damp southern part of the valley. Kudos to Lost Canyon
for holding it back this long, but it still needs time. Try
after 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
WineMag.com | 7
buyingguide
90
Monte Xanic 2010 Gran Ricardo (Valle
de Guadalupe). This Cabernet blend is one
of Baja’s best reds. Cured meat, dry spice and brandied
berry aromas lead to an elegant (by Baja standards) palate with herbal hints, plenty of spice, solid cherry and
berry flavors, and modest tannins. This wine has guts
and delivers the goods; contains 18% Merlot and 10%
Petit Verdot. Drink through 2020. Wines From Baja.
Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $56
90
Sequoia Grove 2011 Chardonnay (Napa
Valley). A fine Chardonnay, one of the better
ones from Napa Valley. It’s firmly structured and steely,
with good acidity and subtle apricot, orange, Asian pear,
honey and toast flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
90
Viñas de Garza 2009 Gran Amado (Valle
de Guadalupe). This manly blend of Cabernet, Tempranillo, Merlot and Zinfandel spends no less
than 30 months in oak, and apparently that’s what’s
needed to coax out roasted aromas of baked plum and
raspberry. It’s a bit choppy in terms of tannic bite, but
Gran Amado’s huge profile of raspberry, plum, cassis
and cherry flavors blends power with enough complexity to rate as excellent. Drink through 2018. Wines From
Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $100
90
90
Quintas de Melgaco 2012 QM Alvarinho
(Vinho Verde). Like wines from many vineyards that look across the Minho river to Spain, this Alvarinho is typically rich, deliciously ripe with pear and
peach flavors, and brisk with a streak of acidity. The wine
is textured, ripe and perfumed. Keep for six months at
least. International Spirits & Wines, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
Sextant 2010 Night Watch (Paso Robles).
This is Sextant’s most successful of 10 new 2010
releases. It tastes like a best-of-barrels blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Syrah. Rich, layered and satisfying,
it offers waves of berries, herbs, cocoa, savory tobacco
leaf, bacon and exotic spices. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $50
90
Zuccardi 2011 Emma Bonarda (Mendoza). Zuccardi makes really good varietal Bonardas. This version is rich and deep, with intense primary aromas of blackberry that dominate the bouquet.
A muscular palate with rubbery tannins supports blackberry, chocolate, fig and toasted flavors. This strapping
red is chocolaty and a touch warm on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $33
90
90
Riglos 2010 Las Divas Vineyard Gran
Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato). Initially
this shows plenty of wood on the nose, but with time
slightly herbal aromas of berry and cassis rise up. In the
mouth, this is blocky but healthy, with a mix of blackberry, cured meat, carob and herbal flavors. A moderately creamy finish with ample oak closes things out.
Drink now through 2018; only 360 cases produced.
Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
Silverado 2011 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Carneros). With a brisk hit of acidity
and cool-climate grapefruit and lemon flavors that just
manage to break into richer apricots and papayas, this
Chardonnay appeals for its complex interest. It’s creamy
and sweet in oak, yet finishes dry. Not an ager, but a nice
Chardonnay for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
88
Bortolomiol 2012 Bandarossa Millesimato Extra Dry (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Bandarossa is a flagship sparkler and
among the best Prosecco Superiori because of its steady
and smooth delivery on the palate. There are delicate
floral and stone fruit nuances, followed by crisp tones
of citrus and grapefruit. Wine Warehouse Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20
88
Bortolomiol 2012 Ius Naturae Millesimato Brut (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Made with organically-farmed grapes, Ius Naturae represents a new school in the production of Prosecco Superiore—a wine more often associated with
winery technique rather than vineyard practice. The
results are very satisfying, with bright citrus and lime
followed by brisk effervescence. Wine Warehouse Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20
87
Borgo Maragliano NV Brut Chardonnay
(Piedmont). Here’s a Chardonnay-based sparkler from Piedmont that opens with bright tones of
lemon and sweet grapefruit followed by yeasty tones
of freshly baked bread. There’s some bitter almond as
well, which adds tartness to the finish. USA Wine West.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
88
Bortolomiol NV Prior Brut (Valdobbiadene Prosecco). Here’s a great Italian sparkler
to try with seafood salad or coconut fried shrimp. Packaged in an elegant bottle, the contents boast impressive
aromatic intensity with sharply focused aromas of citrus
and honeydew melon. Wine Warehouse Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $17
87
Vinicola Urbana 2011 Xikbal TempranilloGrenache (Valle de Guadalupe). This
blend of Tempranillo and Grenache is gritty up front,
with strong black-fruit aromas and lemony oak notes. A
palate with minty, dark flavors of licorice, plum, cherry
and even citrus is attractive and shows acidic balance.
For a big wine with grip, it’s more meaty than mean.
Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $33
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87
Monte Xanic 2012 Chenin-Colombard
(Valle de Guadalupe). Monte Xanic puts out
a number of solid wines at this affordable level. This
blend features apple, citrus and mild sulfuric oiliness on
the nose. The feel is correct and clean, while basic flavors of peach and apple carry onto a sweet-leaning finish where banana and pear notes linger. Wines From
Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Monte Xanic 2011 Cabernet Blend (Valle de Guadalupe). Most Monte Xanic wines
are well made and fall into this region on our 100-point
scale. This Cab-Merlot blend begins with herbal tomato
aromas, leafy touches and spice notes. It’s a lot like basic
Bordeaux, but with a creamy feel, rubbery tannins and
more overt oak. This finishes with mocha, coffee, chocolate and peppery flavors. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
88
Fritz 2012 Estate Grown Rosé Wine (Dry
Creek Valley). With its sweet finish, this blush
wine is balanced with crisp acidity. It’s rich in strawberries, cherries and gingersnap cookies, wrapped into a
silky texture. The modest alcohol makes it easy to drink
with charcuterie, nuts, cheeses, bruschetta, even a Sunday brunch of scrambled eggs and smoked salmon.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
87
Monte Xanic 2012 Viña Kristel Sauvignon
Blanc (Valle de Guadalupe). Sauvignon
Blanc is, in general, one of Baja’s more consistent performers. This version is light in color, with varietally familiar aromas of nettle, grapefruit and passion fruit. It’s
a bit weighty, with apple, grapefruit and tropical flavors.
A mild bitterness can be found on the finish. Wines
From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
85
Pasqua 2011 Famiglia Pasqua (Soave).
Light notes of peach and dusty mineral open
the bouquet of this food-friendly Soave. You could pair
the wine with seafood, summer pasta dishes or salad. It
ends with notes of white flower and almond blossom.
Pasqua USA LLC. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
WineMag.com | 9
buyingguide
BEST BUYS
84
Pasqua NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). This is a
thin and informal Prosecco with a no-fuss personality and a simple mandate to refresh the palate on a
hot summer day. Citrus and honey are followed by dried
sage and hay. Pasqua USA LLC. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $13
BEST BUYS
90
Firestone 2010 Gewürztraminer (Santa
Ynez Valley). A terrific Gewürz, and kudos for
Firestone holding it back for nearly three years to let it
mellow. It’s a bit soft compared to an Alsatian bottling,
but rich and spicy, with flavors suggesting gingerbread
cookies dipped into orange marmalade. The finish
boasts honeyed tones that linger. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
88
90
Rotari NV Rosé (Trento). An outstanding
value wine that hits all the right spots both on
the nose and in the mouth, this rosé sparkler would
taste great on a hot summer afternoon. Light touches of
peach, cranberry and pink grapefruit segue to creamy
foam and warm touches of freshly baked bread. Prestige
Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
88
Tierra Brisa 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). Give this Cabernet Sauvignon
time in the glass for initial rubbery aromas to subside, revealing berry and cassis scents. The mouthfeel
is round and balanced, with flavors of graham cracker,
blackberry and chocolate. A mellow finish that’s fresh
and friendly seals this wine’s quality position. Bronco
Wine Company. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
89
88
Aveleda 2012 Alvarinho (Minho). This
Alvarinho, grown in the southern part of the
Vinho Verde region, has richness as well as typical peach
and pear flavors. The acidity comes through with its citrus edge to give a crisp aftertaste to a ripe-fruit flavored
wine. Aveleda Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
SPIRITs
95
Kirk and Sweeney 12 Year Dominican
Rum (Dominican Republic; 35 Maple
Street, Sonoma, CA). Named for a wooden schooner famed for smuggling rum during Prohibition, this
amber rum has a relatively light feel for a spirit aged a
full 12 years. Flavors and aromas run to hazelnut, cookie dough, brown sugar and vanilla, pepped up with dark
chocolate and espresso. Presented in a rotund “onion”
bottle modeled after an 18th-century design.
abv: 40%
Price: $40
BEST BUYS
90
Aveleda 2012 Quinta da Aveleda Estate
Bottled (Vinho Verde). The Aveleda estate
is the source of the fruit for this dry, delicious Vinho
Verde. It’s a reference for the food-friendly, lemon and
grapefruit style, adding minerality and a taut texture to
the forward fruitiness. Drink this summer, or hold for
up to six months. Aveleda Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $9
Aveleda 2012 Vinho Branco (Douro). Almost cool in character, this crisp Douro comes
from high-altitude vineyards. The grapes yield a fruity
citrus- and pear-driven wine that’s minerally, with just
the right amount of acidity to push its freshness forward. Aveleda Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $9
Zolo 2011 Sustainably Farmed Estate
Grown and Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). Dark berry, pencil eraser and spice aromas come together nicely. In the mouth, this is a forward marcher with a good mouthfeel and ample push.
Lightly baked flavors of plum and blackberry are fully
ripe, while the finish feels sturdy and tastes a bit salty
and earthy. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $11
BEST BUYS
87
Line 39 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake
County). Cecchetti Wine Company makes a
lot of Line 39 Sauvignon Blanc, but does it well, offering an affordable wine that tastes great. Grassy and
tropical, it’s true to Lake County, with just a touch of
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc character. Crisp and
easy to drink. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
BEST BUYS
86
Orion Wine 2011 È 100 Per Cento Un
oaked Chardonnay (Sicilia). This is a 100%
unoaked Chardonnay that opens with bright tones of
citrus, banana and pineapple. There’s a fresh acidic kick
at the end. Traditional Wine Innovations LLC. Best
Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
BEST BUYS
84
CK Mondavi 2012 Willow Springs Chardonnay (California). A solid Chardonnay,
showing good varietal character at a fair price. It’s a little
lightweight, but the cream, peach and citrus flavors are
just fine. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $7
corrections
On page 78 of the July 2013 issue, the following wine
was incorrectly identified as Chardonnay; it is a Pinot
Noir.
87
River Road 2012 Un-Oaked Chardonnay
(Sonoma County). Shows pure, pleasurable
Chardonnay flavors of white peach, grape, nectarine,
honey and vanilla, with no interference from oak. The
acidity gives the wine a slight bite. The winemaker did
a good job assembling the various lots into this threeappellation blend. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $12
86
CK Mondavi 2012 Willow Springs Sauvignon Blanc (California). This winery does a
great job at producing an affordable Sauvignon Blanc
that satisfies on many levels. It’s properly dry and crisp,
with refreshing lime, lemongrass and tart gooseberry
flavors that have a honeyed mellowness. Should be easy
to find, with 25,000 cases produced. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $7
86
Quintas de Melgaco 2012 Terra Antiga
White Wine (Vinho Verde). Bright, lively and
fruity, this is a delicious, crisp, dry Vinho Verde from the
north of the region, close to Spain. It has citrus notes, a
bright texture, lively acidity and a touch of spritz. Eco
valley. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $9
92
Balletto 2011 Sexton Hill Vineyard Estate
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Marked
by sheer lusciousness, this single-vineyard Pinot Noir
delights with pure, intense raspberries, cherries and
spicy persimmons, wrapped into a silky texture. With
modest alcohol and a touch of oak, it’s a feminine wine,
elegant and appealing, yet it packs plenty of power.
Drink now–2018. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $40
85
Maximo 2011 Edicion Limitada Garnacha
(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Forward
cherry and plum aromas are fresh and lively. A blocky,
full-bodied palate offers tasty plum and berry flavors in
front of a firm finish with chocolaty notes and length.
This is basic but done well. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $9
WineMag.com | 11
buyingguide
rosés
86
Monte Xanic 2012 Calixa Rosado (Valle
de Guadalupe). This pink wine is made from
Grenache grapes. It’s fresh, clean and spunky on the
nose, with good acidity cutting into what would otherwise be a thick body. Flavors of plum, cherry and citrus make this a solid rosado from Mexico. Wines From
Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
83
Hacienda La Lomita 2012 Cursi Rosé
(Valle de Guadalupe). Oxidized cherry and
strawberry aromas settle on heavy and candied upon
airing. This is thick and plump stuff, with sweet redfruit flavors and seemingly a lot of residual sugar. This
needs more spine and structure. Wines From Baja.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
82
Vinicola Fraternidad 2012 Impetu Rosé
(Valle de Guadalupe). This is fairly hard
and fiery on the nose. The palate is tough and the wine
smacks around rather than flows easily. With only modest acidity, it’s not that lively. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
cabernet sauvignon
85
Emevé 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Valle
de Guadalupe). Mocha, coffee, leather, brandied red fruit and a grassy aroma define the bouquet on
this sweet, ripe-tasting Cabernet that’s full of cherry and
candied berry flavors. A sweet, jammy finish has a little
burn to offer. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
85
Vinos Magbel 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Valle de Guadalupe). Initially hard, rooty
aromas of leather and horsehide transition to cassis,
raspberry and plum if given time. The palate on this is
a bit rough and tannic, but there’s also solid berry fruit
and a moderately baked finish with a rubbery feel to
give it character. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
84
Ernesto Camou y Camou 2010 Reserva
Cabernet Sauvignon (Valle de Guadalupe). Price aside, this is a ponderous wine with rooty
aromas of Dr. Pepper mixed with burnt toast, coffee
and baked berry fruits. It’s very rich and syrupy in the
mouth, while caramel, chocolate and baked berry flavors bring this overripe wine to rest. Wines From Baja.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $100
by global standards, but it has good fruit and isn’t timid.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
90
86
Monte Xanic 2011 Limited Edition Syrah (Valle de Guadalupe). This Syrah opens
with tobacco, chili pepper, hard spice and syrupy berry
aromas. In the mouth, it’s full and rich, with ripe, concentrated berry flavors accented by more rustic notes
of herbs and roots. A peppery tasting, hot feeling finish
does a long simmer before ending rough. Wines From
Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
89
Tres Valles 2010 Kuwal (Valle de Guadalupe). Kuwal is a Tempranillo-led blend that’s
ripe and structured. Cassis, plum and toasty aromas are
heady and introduce a big, ripe palate with round tannins, harmony and flavors of coffee, chocolate, spice and
blackberry. To no surprise, it finishes jammy and rich.
Drink through 2017. Wines From Baja. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $31
83
Lafarga 2008 Equinoccio Syrah (Valle
de Guadalupe). Lafarga’s wines are expensive and shoot high, but they are awfully rustic in general. This Syrah is earthy and rubbery on the nose, then
hard as rocks on the palate due to clamp-down tannins.
Flavors of dark fruits, plastic and oak finish with heat.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $35
88
nebbiolo
88
88
Cava Aragon 2011 Madera 5 Nebbiolo
(San Vicente). While this is fiery on the nose,
you also get attractive, complex aromas of baked cherry,
brandied plum, leather, coffee and chocolate. The flavor
profile consists of red berry, chocolaty oak and spice,
and things conclude with savory, roasted flavors cut by
lasting acidity. This is a powerful, tannic yet sophisticated Nebbiolo that should improve with more time in the
bottle. Wines From Baja. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $27
84
Dubacano 2010 Nebbiolo (Valle de Guadalupe). Hot, syrupy aromas are rooty and intense. This Nebbiolo offers plum, raspberry and red
currant flavors offset by tomato and noticeable oak. The
finish is propelled by acidity and carries tangy flavors
of roasted tomato and plum. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $23
84
Vinos Magbel 2009 Nebbiolo (Valle de
Guadalupe). This opens with hard-capped
aromas of crusty mineral and reedy berry. The flavors
are gamy and roasted, with brandied plum and cherry
accents. The finish is bright in feel and runs long with an
herbal raspberry flavor. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $35
red blends
91
syrah/shiraz
Viñas de Garza 2009 Grimau (Valle de
Guadalupe). For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $100
84
90
Emevé 2009 Shiraz (Valle de Guadalupe).
This is a muscular, concentrated wine with no
shortage of horsepower. In the mouth, it’s rather loud
and acidic. But flavors of smoky black fruits, vanilla and
toast are good and finish spicy. This is heavy and rough
Monte Xanic 2010 Gran Ricardo (Valle de
Guadalupe). For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14%
Price: $56
Viñas de Garza 2009 Gran Amado (Valle
de Guadalupe). For full review see page 8.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $100
Hacienda La Lomita 2010 Sacro Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Valle de Guadalupe). After opening with fiery, baked-fruit aromas, this
Cabernet-Merlot blend settles on cured meat, tarry aromas and black-fruit scents. Flavors of blackberry, black
currant and berry jam only grow richer and deeper as
the wine unfolds. By the time it finishes, it’s borderline
stewy but not quite. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $27
Paralelo 2007 Txtura 1 (Valle de Guadalupe). Dark, gritty, crusty aromas of black licorice and bitter chocolate are fiery, narrow and ultimately
unveil cassis and black cherry notes. This blend of Tempranillo, Zinfandel and Grenache is hard and powerful
in the mouth, with toasty, chocolaty flavors of ripe berries and baked plum. This is true, sun-drenched Mexican wine. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $30
88
Vinicola Fraternidad 2011 Boceto (Valle
de Guadalupe). This is Fraternidad’s best
wine by a mile. Cherry, blackberry, cola and leafy aromas set up a juicy, mildly scratchy palate with tomato,
herb, roast berry, chocolate and coffee flavors. There’s
some scour to the finish, but that’s nothing carne asada
can’t tame. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $39
87
Viñas de Garza 2008 Amado IV (Valle de
Guadalupe). The bouquet on this blend of
Cab, Zin, Merlot and Tempranillo is fairly smooth and
complex, with spice and modest heat. The palate, however, seems to be on the roasted and burnt side of the
fence, with chocolate notes bringing up the rear. This
is tasty but heavy, grabby and hot. Wines From Baja.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58
87
Vinicola Urbana 2011 Xikbal TempranilloGrenache (Valle de Guadalupe). For full
review see page 9.
abv: 14%
Price: $33
87
Vinisterra 2007 Cascabel (Valle de Guadalupe). Cascabel means “rattlesnake,” and
this one bites with rich, heady, raisiny aromas that suggest a slightly cooked, hot wine. Raspberry, plum, spice
and salty notes define the flavor profile, while licorice,
dry spice and heat show up on the racy finish of this fullbodied striker. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $49
86
Monte Xanic 2011 Cabernet Blend (Valle
de Guadalupe). For full review see page 9.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
83
Unión de Productores del Valle (UPVG)
2009 Estacion el Porvenir Vino Tinto (Valle de Guadalupe). This odd blend of Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Sirah and Zinfandel is earthy and
mulchy on the nose, with coffee and compost aromas. It
never finds much freshness as the flavors suggest compost and leafiness. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $22
other red wines
86
Monte Xanic 2011 Limited Edition Cabernet Franc (Valle de Guadalupe). With
aromas of salsa, chili peppers and tomato, this Cab
Franc almost smells like the food it might go with. In
the mouth, it’s ripe and full of sweet cherry, plum and
spice flavors. On the backside it shows milk chocolate,
candied berry notes and modest tannins. Good with
churrasco or roast pork; made with 20% Merlot. Wines
From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $39
85
Hacienda La Lomita 2010 Pagano Grenache (Valle de Guadalupe). This fiery Grenache delivers heat, bold fruit and cured meat aromas
on what amounts to a flaming bouquet. Red fruit flavors dominate this forceful wine, while the finish turns
meaty and salty tasting. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
82
Dubacano 2010 Tempranillo (Valle de
Guadalupe). This is rooty and leafy on the
nose, with dry raspberry and root beer aromas. There’s a
compost-like undercurrent to this wine that’s highlighted via leafy, herbal flavors and a baked, earthy finish.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $21
82
Vinos Magbel 2010 Merlot (Valle de Guadalupe). Fiery, punchy aromas of red berries
and herbaceous plants make for a rough start. Flavors of
leafy red raspberry and plum are typical for basic Merlot, while the finish is juicy in feel, with herbal, leafy,
lightly cooked flavors. Wines From Baja. —M.S.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $30
california
white wines
chardonnay
95
J. Rochioli 2011 River Block Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). The River Block in
Rochioli’s vineyard shouldn’t produce great wines, because the soils are sandy and deep due to their proximity to the river, which repeatedly floods over them in
the rainy season. But meticulous farming resolves that
issue, as evidenced by many years of River Block Pinot Noirs, including those from Williams Selyem. Now
Rochioli makes Chardonnay from the block, and what a
fine wine it is. Dry, crisp and minerally, it has a Chablislike stoniness, yet is rich in apples, pears and sweet oak.
Great now, and will develop bottle complexity over the
next 4–6 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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J. Rochioli 2011 Sweetwater Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). The Sweet
water
block is the highest on the Rochioli estate, stretching
into the hills. The wine is very concentrated in green apples, spicy Asian pears and insanely ripe summer peaches. It’s quite oaky, with strong buttered toast notes, yet
the oak is balanced with the fruit. A classy, flashy wine
that drinks well now, and should develop in the bottle
over the next 4–6 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Paul Hobbs 2011 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). A first-rate Chardonnay, solidly exhibiting the house style of dry, elegant complexity.
It’s the most Chablisian of Hobbs’ recent vintages, with
brilliant acidity and minerality giving the tropical fruit
and oak flavors a stony grounding. It would not be surprising if this wine ages well for six years or so. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $47
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Stonestreet 2011 Gravel Bench Chardonnay (Alexander Valley). The best of Stonestreet’s quartet of 2011 Chardonnays. It’s notable for
the creamy, honeyed mouthfeel that’s so opulent. Also
very complex in flavors, offering waves of tropical fruits,
baked apples and peach jam. Yet it’s all brightened by
zesty acidity. Delicious now, but don’t drink it too cold.
Or cellar it for 6–8 years as it develops dried fruit and
nut notes. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
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J. Rochioli 2011 South River Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Notable for its
dry crispness and minerality, like a fine Chablis. Yet it’s
power-packed with fruit that speaks of California sunshine. Nectarines, green apples, Asian pears and honey all come together with concentrated intensity. The
block in the estate vineyard is close to the Russian River,
hence the name. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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La Crema 2010 9 Barrel Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). An interesting and
elaborate Chardonnay that shows intense winemaker
intervention. It’s sweet in honey, butter and cream, with
lees-inspired notes that give balancing bitterness to the
tropical fruits. Soft and opulent now, it will hold for 4–5
years. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $70
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Le P’tit Paysan 2011 Jack’s Hill Chardonnay (Monterey County). One of the
most Chablis-like Chardonnays California has ever produced, of Premier Cru status. The alcohol officially is a
mere 13% by volume, the wine is very dry, and there are
mineral and slightly herbal flavors. Yet on the midpalate
there’s an explosion of California pears, limes and tropical fruits. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
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Dutton Estate 2011 Kyndall’s Reserve
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Lots
of ripe, forward orange, sweet Meyer lemon, apricot
and green apple fruit in this delicious Chardonnay. The
grapes are a winemaker’s selection of some of Dutton’s
best vineyards. Oak adds the perfect touch of buttered
toast, while crisp acidity keeps the richness zesty clean.
Even though it’s pricey, it’s an exceptionally lovely wine
to drink now, especially with crab. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
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J. Rochioli 2011 Rachael’s Vineyard
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This
is the most expensive of Rochioli’s new Chardonnays. It
also tastes the oakiest, although the amount of new oak
is only 30%. On the plus side is crisp acidity, fine minerality and a solid core of green apples, Meyer lemons and
pears. The wine may be going through a rough patch. If
you have a cellar, try giving it 4–6 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $72
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Stonestreet 2011 Bear Point Chardonnay (Alexander Valley). For full review see
page 5.
abv: 14.5%
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Price: $55
Stonestreet 2011 Broken Road Chardonnay (Alexander Valley). For full review see
page 5.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Dutton Estate 2011 Dutton Ranch Dutton
Palms Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). The vineyard is in the coolest part of
the Russian River, the Green Valley. In this chilly vintage, the wine is as elegant and minerally as ever, with
low alcohol and brilliant acidity. It’s not as rich as previous vintages, but is lovely in hints of apricots, oranges,
green apples and honey. Drink now and over the next
2–3 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
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Gainey 2011 Limited Selection Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Takes the fine elegance
of Gainey’s regular 2011 Chard and lifts it to a more
refined level. The wine is dry and crisp in acidity, with
complex flavors of citrus and tropical fruits, apricots,
honey, minerals and oak. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $38
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Hoyt Family Vineyards 2010 Estate
Grown Chardonnay (California). An impressive Chardonnay, representing a great leap forward
for this Malibu-based winery. It’s dry and crisp in acidity, and very rich, with waves of apricot, orange and mango fruit, supplemented by toasty oak. It’s all wrapped
into a creamy, leesy texture. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $32
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Matanzas Creek 2011 Chardonnay (Bennett Valley). A keen bite of acidity works in
this flashy Chard’s favor, balancing the richness and giving the finish life and zest. It’s tremendous in tropical
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buyingguide
fruit, peach jam, honey and buttered toast flavors. A
fancy, impressive wine for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
al acidity gives the wine a keen freshness. Drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $38
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Coastview 2009 Terraces Chardonnay
(Monterey County). Rich in tropical fruits,
oak, butter cream and lees, this Chardonnay is picking
up bottle age. It’s drying out and getting earthy and a
little mushroomy, but is very complex and racy. A wine
for connoisseurs to appreciate. Drink soon. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Kendall-Jackson 2011 Avant Chardonnay (California). There’s a mellow, honeyed
richness to this Chardonnay, with apricot, orange, mango and vanilla flavors making it especially tasty. It’s a
flamboyant, complex wine at a great price, and easy to
find, with 84,000 cases produced. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Morgan 2011 Highland Chardonnay
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Another fine
Chardonnay from this esteemed producer. Shows the
house signature of dryness, zesty acidity and a minerally cleanliness like Spring snow melt. It’s rich in tropical
fruits, with additional layers of cream and vanilla from
barrel fermentation. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $27
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Saintsbury 2011 Chardonnay (Carneros). A fine, brisk Chardonnay, marked by acidity and minerals and a certain elusiveness. But at its core
are amazingly ripe tropical fruit, honey and vanilla flavors, with additional richness from oak. Good price for
a Carneros Chard of this elegance and complexity. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Sequoia Grove 2011 Chardonnay (Napa
Valley). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
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Silverado 2011 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Carneros). For full review see page 8.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Gainey 2011 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita
Hills). Dry, mouthwatering in acidity, and with
a firm steeliness to the citrus and tropical fruits, this
Chardonnay is fancy enough to drink with rich fare, like
crab. It shows the elegance of the Santa Rita Hills, at a
fair price. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $22
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Kendall-Jackson 2011 Grand Reserve
Chardonnay (Santa Barbara-Monterey).
Lots of exotic tropical papayas and guavas in this soft,
honeyed Chard. It’s rich and creamy, yet shows enough
acidity to lend it balance. Great to drink with lobster,
crab, scallops. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Pfendler 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). Pretty oaky, with buttered toast and
butterscotch flavors. But there’s some good, strong
pineapple and pear fruit underneath, and fine coast-
Ridge 2011 Estate Monte Bello Vineyards Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). Rich, ripe and flashy, with honey, pineapple and
orange jam and toasty oak flavors. It’s brightened with
crisp acidity. With some heat from alcohol, it’s deliciously approachable now. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
Stonestreet 2011 Upper Barn Chardonnay (Alexander Valley). With sweetly ripe
pineapple, tangerine and mango fruit, this Chard is
brightened by a squirt of lemony acidity. It’s very fine,
but seems a little less defined and complex than Stonestreet’s other new Chards. Don’t drink it too cold. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
Walt 2011 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). Extraordinarily rich
and ripe in tropical fruits, oranges and honey, this Chardonnay’s lushness is balanced by citrusy acids and minerality. It’s very good, but you find yourself wishing it
was drier and more complex for the price. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $50
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Walt 2011 La Brisa Chardonnay (Sonoma County). Ripe and honeyed in vanilla,
buttered toast, tropical fruit and orange jam flavors, this
Chardonnay is lifted by vibrant acidity and a tangy minerality, like a lick of steel that lends it backbone. It defines the modern style with elegance. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $40
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Firestone 2011 Chardonnay (Santa Ynez
Valley). This rich, ripe wine hits all your Chardonnay sweet spots. It’s honeyed in tropical fruits, with
oaky notes of buttered toast and vanilla. The best thing
is the clean, zesty acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
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Fritz 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). Lots of ripe pineapple, peach
and tropical fruit flavors in this Chard, as well as a nice
hit of sweet, smoky oak, with a honeyed finish. It’s certainly rich, but the acidity is strong. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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Husch 2011 Vine One Chardonnay (Anderson Valley). A light, lemony and crisp
Chardonnay with a long, lemony finish begging for fresh
seafood and spice—think fish tacos—Husch’s Vine One
has a hint of just-ripe pear layered in, too. Refreshing
and aromatic, this is an all-around great value that’ll pair
well with a wide range of foods. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
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Kendall-Jackson 2011 Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay (California). Here’s a
rich, flashy Chardonnay. It has a fat, butter-and-cream
mouthfeel, with waves of pineapple tart, lemon meringue, buttered toast and honey flavors that finish soft
and lush. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Ventana 2011 Estate Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco). Comprised of equal parts sweet,
toasty oak, brisk acidity and ripe tropical fruit and citrus flavors, this Chardonnay is successfully made in the
popular style. It’s creamy and rich, with a vanilla honey
sweetness. Easily Ventana’s best Chard ever. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $32
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B Cellars 2011 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This Chardonnay wants time to warm and breathe in the glass, so
don’t pour it right from the fridge. After a little while
it develops considerably in generosity, offering waves
of tropical fruits, peaches and pears. The oak is pretty
strong, even jarring. Give it a few years in the cellars to
let everything knit together. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
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Black Stallion 2010 Chardonnay (Napa
Valley). A nice Chardonnay, clean and crisp,
with modulated flavors of peaches, lemon meringue pie
and buttered toast. Easy to drink this well-made wine.
—S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $32
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Castello di Amorosa 2011 Chardonnay
(Napa Valley). A big, oaky, rich Chardonnay,
made in the popular style, with that inimitable California ripeness from the warm sun. Floods the mouth
with pineapple and mango jam, buttered toast, buttered
popcorn and vanilla flavors, balanced with brisk acidity
and set in a creamy framework. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $28
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Fritz 2010 Chardonnay (Russian River
Valley). The texture could be smoother on this
Chardonnay, as it’s all sharp knees and elbows. But it
shows proper ripeness, with orange, green apple and
tropical fruit flavors, as well as plenty of sweet vanilla,
cream and buttered toast. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
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Landmark 2010 Lorenzo Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Landmark’s
Chardonnays have been getting sweeter and simpler
over the years, perhaps in an attempt to appeal to the
popular palate. With the 2011 Lorenzo, they have produced a ripe, oaky, buttery Chard, with orange and
pineapple jam, vanilla, honey and fresh cream flavors,
made for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $55
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River Road 2012 Un-Oaked Chardonnay
(Sonoma County). For full review see page
11. Best Buy.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $12
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Silverado 2011 Vineburg Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). This dry Chardonnay
shows the minerality, acidity and herbalness that mark
some Carneros Chardonnays. It’s an elusive wine, less
ripe than many, but has enough fruit, cream and oak
richness to hit the right Chard notes. Call it elegant.
—S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $30
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VML 2011 Ivywood Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). The honeyed richness of
this Chardonnay is balanced by crisp acidity and a hint
of minerals. It’s ripe and forward in orange, apricot and
tropical fruits, and the texture is creamy smooth. Easy
to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $35
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Jigar 2010 Chardonnay (Russian River
Valley). After a poor showing in 2009, Jigar
has redeemed itself. Their 2010 Chardonnay is rich and
smooth in tropical fruits, cream, buttered toast and cinnamon spices. It’s starting to show its age, so drink up.
—S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $24
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Lander-Jenkins 2011 Spirit Hawk Chardonnay (California). Rich in apricot, orange and tropical fruits, with buttered toast, honey and
creamy lees flavors, this Chardonnay leaves nothing to
the imagination. It’s flashy and forward, yet has enough
acid and mineral balance to give it interest. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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Landmark 2011 Overlook Chardonnay
(Sonoma County). The sourcing on Landmark’s Overlook bottling has changed constantly over
the years. This 2011 is certainly rich in pineapples, nectarines, tangerines, Meyer lemons and smoky oak. It reflects the popular Chardonnay appetite. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
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Matanzas Creek 2011 Journey Chardonnay (Sonoma County). Massively rich and
ripe, a big, glamorous Chard that caters to the contemporary style. It’s front-loaded with white sugar, tropical
fruit and oak flavors. Sometimes less is more. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $75
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Rodney Strong 2011 Estate Chardonnay
(Chalk Hill). Fires on all cylinders, with massive tropical fruit, peach and green apple fruit, enriched
with sweet, smoky, vanilla-accented oak. The malolactic
fermentation gives it a creamy, buttered-popcorn richness. It’s rich and appealing in the modern style. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
now. Shows tropical fruit, green apple, honey and sweet
oak flavors, with a savory edge of acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $14
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Toad Hollow 2011 Francine’s Selection Chardonnay (Mendocino County).
Francine’s Selection has for almost 20 years been unoaked and this vintage is as well, but its concentration
of ripe flavors gives the impression of oak, the richness of creamy fruit and slight residual sugar giving it
an impression of being a bigger wine. Pair with equally
creamy and rich foods. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
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There Wines 2011 Pamela’s Vineyard
Chardonnay (Mendocino County). A rich,
oaky style of Chardonnay that spent five months sur lie
in neutral French oak. The wine has a soft, mildly sour
taste and lurking wet stone notes. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $28
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Brochelle Vineyards 2011 Chardonnay
(Santa Maria Valley). An awkward Chardonnay. It’s strong in apricot flavors, suggesting some overripeness, while the vanilla and butterscotch give it a candied, fruit juice sweetness. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $28
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F.J. Serra 2012 Chardonnay (California).
Ripe and creamy, with flavors of pineapple
candy, honey, brown sugar, buttered toast and cinnamon. It’s just what millions of Chardonnay lovers want.
—S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
Trinitas 2010 Proprietors Reserve Chardonnay (Carneros). Tastes like toothpicks,
with buttered toast, butterscotch and vanilla flavors
dominating everything else. Somewhere underneath is
some tangerine and mango fruit. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $40
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Nitty Gritty 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). A good, if fairly standard wine, showing
all the popular Chardonnay elements. It’s dry, crisp and
creamy, with fruit and buttered toast flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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River Road 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma
County). Not a bad price for a rich, creamy
Chardonnay. It’s sweet in brown sugar, orange and pineapple jam and vanilla flavors that appeal to the popular
style. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Arrowood 2010 Reserve Speciale Chardonnay (Sonoma County). You’ll find tropical fruit flavors in this Chardonnay, but they’re not
strong enough to stand up to the weight of oak. It’s a
little too soft as well. Disappointing. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
84
CK Mondavi 2012 Willow Springs Chardonnay (California). For full review see page
11. Best Buy.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $7
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Vinum Cellars 2011 Chardonnay (North
Coast). A tropical Chardonnay with a fullbodied personality and aromas of vanilla and caramel.
Priced fairly, it’ll please California Chardonnay fans who
like a bigger style. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Jacella 2011 Chardonnay (Carneros). A
simple wine, it tastes overoaked and thin in oranges and apricots, with brisk acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Spellbound 2011 Chardonnay (California). Not much going on in this sweet Chardonnay except toothpicky oak, vanilla and watered-down
peach juice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Truett Hurst 2011 Swallowtail Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Simple and
cloying in white sugar notes. Too bad, because there’s
good acidity and succulent citrus and tropical fruit flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
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Cupcake 2011 Chardonnay (Central
Coast). Another clean, brisk and slightly sweet
Chardonnay from Cupcake, at a pretty good price. Its
shows orange, peach, vanilla, buttered toast and white
sugar flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Greg Norman Estates 2011 Chardonnay
(Santa Barbara County). A solid Chardonnay, made in the popular style. It delivers the expected flavors of tropical fruits and peaches, buttered toast,
cream and smoky oak, in a one-dimensional way. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
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viognier
Round Hill 2011 Chardonnay (California). Soft, honeyed and oaky, in the California
style. But at this price, it offers the Chardonnay lover
plenty of fruity richness and creaminess. Easy to find,
with 25,000 cases produced. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
Saintsbury 2010 Brown Ranch Chardonnay (Carneros). Oak sticks out on this Chardonnay, with buttered toast, honey and caramel flavors
dominating the underlying tropical and citrus fruits. It
has good acidity and a fine minerality, but feels overworked. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
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Sebastiani 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma
County). An easy, flashy Chardonnay to drink
River Road 2011 Mills Family Vineyard
Chardonnay (Green Valley). Tastes manipulated, with oak, honey and buttercream flavors dominating the underlying apples and peaches. —S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $20
Edna Valley Vineyard 2011 Paragon
Chardonnay (Central Coast). A Chardonnay with sweet, simple flavors of white sugar and pineapples. Tart acidity gives it the taste of a sweet-and-sour
sauce for Chinese food. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
Trinitas 2011 Apprentice Chardonnay
(Napa Valley). Tastes tired and flabby, with
sweet oak and alcohol flavors and not much else going
on. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $22
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Arrowood 2010 Saralee’s Vineyard Viognier (Russian River Valley). An extraordinary Viognier, as rich as they come. The great Saralee’s
Vineyard gave fantastically ripe grapes, and the wine-
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maker has lavished the wine with opulent touches of
oak and lees. It’s flamboyant in tropical fruits and honey,
with mouthwatering acidity. —S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $30
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sauvignon blanc
Jaffurs 2011 Viognier (Santa Barbara
County). Another great Viognier from Jaffurs,
continuing the winery’s string of successful releases. As
in the past, it’s ultrarich in tropical fruit, peach, buttercream, vanilla, honeysuckle and cinnamon spice flavors,
yet for all the richness, it finishes dry and minerally.
Seems a little more acidic than in the past, which is a
good, balancing thing. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $27
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Le P’tit Paysan 2011 Cedar Lane Vineyard L’Apiculteur Viognier (Arroyo Seco).
Leaner than most California Viogniers, with lots of minerality and tart acidity. Yet at its core are ripe varietal
flavors of tropical fruits, green apples, spices and honey.
An elegant and delicious wine for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $22
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Campovida 2011 Estate Riserva Viognier (Mendocino County). This estate-grown
Viognier was whole-cluster pressed and barrel-fermented in neutral French oak with no malolactic fermentation, giving it a fresh and fruity personality amid
a creamy core of honey, pear and fig. On the finish is a
layer of pineapple and lime, giving it a refreshing finish
just right for a plate of butter-smeared lobster. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $36
Firestone 2010 Gewürztraminer (Santa
Ynez Valley). For full review see page 10.
Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
VML 2011 Gewürztraminer (Russian River Valley). This Gewürz is on the sweet side,
but it’s clean and crisp in acids, and offers wildly rich
citrus, tropical fruit, exotic spice, vanilla bean and white
flower flavors. Great with today’s Chinese, Vietnamese,
Thai or Burmese fare. —S.H.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $22
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Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Dutton Ranch
Green Valley Vineyard Gewürztraminer
(Green Valley). The winery’s Gewürztraminers always
have a slightly sugary taste, but their 2012 is more evident in that off-dryness than in past vintages, and seems
softer, too. It’s rich, fruity and spicy, with a honeyed finish that will make it perfect with slightly-sweet Southeast Asian foods. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Claiborne & Churchill 2012 Pinot Gris
(Central Coast). The winery’s 2012 dry
whites offer plenty of value-driven quality, as usual. This
Pinot Gris is crisp, clean and minerally, like cold snowmelt in the mouth. The citrus, honeysuckle, vanilla and
white pepper flavors are a delight. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $20
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Sobon Estate 2012 Viognier (Amador
County). A Viognier vibrant in pear with a suggestion of coconut flake that’s medium in weight and not
overly wrought, Sobon’s version is a good value at $16,
fine, simple and fragrant in melon and orange rind, a
taste of oak on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $16
Lange Twins 2011 Estate Grown Viognier
(Clarksburg). Dark gold in color, this Viognier
tastes of ripe apple compote and vanilla custard with a
generous texture of tropical fruits. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $16
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Vina Robles 2012 Huerhuero Viognier
(Paso Robles). Almost as sweet as a dessert
wine, this Viognier has flavors of white sugar and a fruit
juice blend of oranges, mangoes and peaches. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $22
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Claiborne & Churchill 2012 Dry Gewürztraminer (Central Coast). Another classic
Gewürz from this fine winery, their best ever. As the
label indicates, it’s dry, but has an apparent sweetness,
with honey-infused orange, Asian pear and litchee nut
flavors, and those fabulous exotic spices that are so
unique to the variety. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $20
La Folia Winery 2012 Pinot Grigio (Sierra Foothills). Fragrant in fruity melon, fig and
lime, La Folia’s done a nice job with this Pinot Grigio,
producing something that’s crisp yet full, integrated,
round and lush yet zippy in acidity. Pair with pasta, salads and veggies of all kinds. —V.B.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $18
Michael Pozzan 2012 Dante Reserve Pinot Grigio (Paso Robles). Tastes sweet, with
citrus, white flower and green pea notes. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
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Ehlers Estate 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (St.
Helena). This is one of the best Sauvignon
Blancs of the vintage, from a winery with a fine track record producing the variety. Maybe it’s the organic fruit
that makes it so pure. Certainly, the absence of noticeable oak lets the citrus and tropical fruits shine. With refreshingly low alcohol and lots of mouthwatering acidity,
it’s an absolute delight to drink now. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $28
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Ziata 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). The price makes this one of the more expensive Sauvignon Blancs on the market, but it’s also
one of the best. The grapes come from a cool region
in east Napa and from warmer Rutherford. The wine
shows terrifically ripe, complex fruit flavors, with a superb structure of acidity and a minerally chalkiness that
makes it tangy. It was stainless-steel fermented and
aged in neutral oak barrels. The formula is frequently
copied, but few Sauvignon Blancs achieve this level of
quality. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $28
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B Cellars 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). A lovely wine, wonderful to drink now
with charcuterie, ceviche, even asparagus. The grapes
were mostly fermented in stainless steel, with just a little neutral oak, leaving the tropical fruit, spearmint and
peach flavors to star. Brisk in acidity, it’s a bargain at this
price. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
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Sutcliffe 2011 Pinot Gris (Carneros). A
savory Pinot Gris that shows how well the variety can grow in Carneros. It was barrel fermented,
which gives a creamy richness to the citrus and tropical
fruit flavors. A nice edge of acidity adds a clean, bright
mouthfeel. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
Xurus 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake
County). Xurus shows off the beauty of Lake
County Sauvignon Blanc with this wine, which tastes of
crème brûlée with a delicious twist of lime. Austere and
well-balanced with some heft on the finish, the minerality on this wine particularly stands out, a complement
for food. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $23
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Parducci 2012 Small Lot Blend Pinot Gris
(Mendocino County). Aromatically awash
with apple and melon aromas, this Parducci Pinot Gris
is fleshy and creamy with a nice stone-tinged finish and
priced quite nicely to boot. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
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CK Mondavi 2012 Willow Springs Pinot
Grigio (California). An easy Pinot Grigio to
like for its smoothness and slightly sweet orange peel,
white pepper, vanilla and honey flavors. Good everyday
price, and in wide distribution. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $7
Bink 2011 Randle Hill Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Yorkville Highlands). York
ville Highlands producer Bink has made a lovely Sauvignon Blanc with hazelnut, fig and darker pear flavors,
100-percent stainless-steel fermented and aged. With a
depth of minerality and lovely lingering finish, it’s well
worth seeking out for dinner parties or days by the pool.
—V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Dutton Estate 2011 Cohen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley).
From old vines grown in the cool Green Valley section
of the valley, this Sauvignon Blanc’s tart, green flavors
are relieved by a touch of tropical fruit. Made without
oak, it’s a perfect summer sipper, dry and streamlined.
Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 12.2%
Price: $22
Blanc’s acidity and racy spearmint and tropical fruit.
The alcohol is moderate, making it easy to drink. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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Grgich Hills 2011 Fumé Blanc Estate
Grown Dry Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). For full review see page 7.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $30
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Nitty Gritty 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). Pricey, but it’s a very good Sauvignon
Blanc. You can tell right away that it’s pedigreed, from
the perfumed aroma to the complex flavors of citrus
fruits, peaches, sweet hay, vanilla, toast and white pepper. With a dry finish, it’s versatile across a range of
foods. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
88
Dutton Estate 2011 Kylie’s Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). A
refreshing wine, tart in acidity, with savory green leaf,
gooseberry and tropical fruit flavors. Feels really clean
and zesty in the mouth, finishing with a swirl of exotic
spices. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
88
Entre Nous 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Oakville). Enjoy this dry, crisply acidic wine.
It’s rich in citrus, tropical fruit and honey flavors, but
shows balancing savoriness, with a hint of green gooseberry and oak. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $40
88
Newsome-Harlow 2012 Sauvignon Blanc
(Calaveras County). A juicy, tropical Sauvignon Blanc ripe for warm weather sipping, textured in
mango, pineapple and a hit of fresh pear. Intense with
a savory taste on the finish, this white is perfect on its
own or ideal with seafood or crackers smothered in goat
cheese. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
Straight Line 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Santa Barbara County). The honey, orange,
pineapple-jam and vanilla flavors are extremely rich, but
balanced and brightened by brilliant acidity. It’s elegant,
clean and delicious. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $22
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CK Mondavi 2012 Willow Springs Sauvignon Blanc (California). For full review see
page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $7
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Hawkstone 2012 Barney’s Heritage Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A little on the ripe side, with honey-infused grapefruit and
mango fruit flavors. But the acidity is crisp and refreshing, making for a balanced, cocktail-style sipper. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
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Schug 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma
Coast). This vintage brings a wine that’s offdry, with a sugary accent to the citrus and tropical fruit
flavors. It’s balanced with crisp acidity, and a hint of
green gooseberry tartness. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
85
Barlow 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). A rich, somewhat one-dimensional
wine. It has ripe orange, peach, lemon and lime flavors,
brightened with plenty of zesty acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
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Hanna 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian
River Valley). Cool vintages make Hanna’s
Sauvignon Blanc a little green and minty, and 2012 was
another cool vintage. The wine is dry and low in alcohol,
with a grassy, gooseberry taste. —S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $18
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Shenandoah 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (California). A low-priced white with a smoky quality and rounded textures of pear and coconut. Twist the
cap off on this one for patio and pool parties or to enjoy
with a platter of raw oysters. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
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Frog’s Leap 2012 Sauvignon Blanc
(Rutherford). Shows green, peppery flavors
with a strong touch of gooseberry. The combination of
acidity and ripe flavors tastes like a lemon candy cough
drop. Good, but simple. —S.H.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $20
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Michael Pozzan 2012 Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley). A simple wine, with some
charm. The chief fault is unripeness, in the form of bell
peppers and ammonia. Yet you’ll also find citrus and
tropical fruits, leading to a honeyed finish. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
white blends
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Screenplay Wines 2010 White (Carneros). If you didn’t know what this wine was,
you might guess it was a Rhône-style blend. It’s flowery
and creamy, with peach custard, honeysuckle and papaya flavors. As it turns out, it’s a blend of Chardonnay,
Viognier, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, and quite
a good one. Not especially complex, but very tasty to
drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $25
88
Stonestreet 2011 Terrace Ridge Sémillon-
Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander Valley).
Rich and opulent, with the Sémillon adding depth and
roundness to Sauvignon’s lemon, lime and floral notes.
Tastes like there’s some residual sugar in the finish, but
balanced with zesty acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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Clos du Lac 2012 Estate Sauvignon
Blanc (Sierra Foothills). A very bright,
citrusy Sierra Foothills Sauvignon Blanc, very fairly
priced, that tastes of cool lemonade on a summer’s day.
Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Stonestreet 2011 Aurora Point Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander Valley). New Zealand-like in style, with brisk acidity highlighting gooseberry, spearmint and Meyer lemon flavors. Elegant
and clean for drinking now, especially with Asian fare.
—S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $40
Line 39 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake
County). For full review see page 11. Best
Buy.
abv: 13.5%
87
Price: $10
Rodney Strong 2012 Charlotte’s Home
Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Northern Sonoma). A touch of oak adds a sweet, smoky creaminess to this wine, but it’s really dominated by Sauvignon
Justin 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Central
Coast). No oak on this charming wine, so what
you get is pure lemon, peach and mango fruit flavor. It’s
definitely on the rich side, and could use greater acidity
to balance out the sugary finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
Kokomo 2012 Timber Crest Vineyard
Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). The
alcohol is refreshingly low on this wine, making it delicate in the mouth. It’s also full of lemon, peach and vanilla flavors. Easy to drink with hors d’oeuvres. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $20
Sobon Estate 2012 Sauvignon Blanc
(California). A value-priced Sauvignon Blanc
from Sobon, which also makes Shenandoah Vineyards
wines in the Shenandoah Valley of California, within the
greater Sierra Foothills. This white opens with floral aromatics followed by wet stone, apple and lemon, all in a
subtle, lightly rendered way. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
Campovida 2012 Campo di Blanca (Mendocino County). From estate grown Marsanne (67%) and Viognier (22%), with the remainder
Roussanne (11%), Campovida’s Campo di Blanca is
tight in acidity, with lemon, honey and melon standing
out. Floral and medium-bodied, the finish rounds out
with a tease of ginger. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $35
Clarksburg Wine Company 2011 Chenin
Blanc-Viognier (Clarksburg). Fragrant and
floral, this mix of 85% Chenin Blanc and 15% Viognier
is soft and light, in alcohol (12.5%) and texture. With
flavors of white peach and a subtle tropical streak, with
good minerality, it’s a nice sipping wine or a good find
with Asian food. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
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Claiborne & Churchill 2012 Edelzwicker
(Central Coast). You could almost classify this
as a dessert wine because it’s frankly off-dry. But strong,
mouthwatering acidity restrains and balances the sug-
WineMag.com | 17
buyingguide
91
Vinum 2011 White Elephant (California).
Made in a rich, ripe style, this Chenin Blancbased blend has enough acidity for balance. It offers
rich golden mango, orange and honey flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $18
Campovida 2012 Bonofiglio Vineyard
Marsanne (Mendocino County). A stunning Marsanne from Mendocino, Campovida’s is resplendent in green apple with a touch of beeswax, almond and herb, fleshy and full with a big finish of spice.
Round and refreshing, it’ll pair with all manner of
spring and summertime foods, from salads to shellfish
and even dishes piquant in spice. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $34
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ariness. The wine is a blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris. It’s a great summer wine. —S.H.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $16
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Vinum Cellars 2011 Chenin Blanc-
Viognier (Clarksburg). A blend of 85%
Chenin Blanc and 15% Viognier, this white is part sweet
and part sour, with honey and peach coming through
a murky cloud of wood. Still, enjoy it with Asian food
slathered in spice or as the first sip on a hot day. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
82
Acronym 2011 Great White (California).
The main thing to know about this blend of undisclosed varieties is that it’s not dry. It will appeal to
consumers who like their white wines fruity and sugary,
yet it’s not really sweet enough to enjoy as a dessert sipper. —S.H.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20
82
Cottonwood Creek 2010 White (California). For 10 bucks you get a decent, 10 buck
wine. Nothing fancy, just fruity, off-dry and crisply
drinkable. —S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
other white wines
93
Jaffurs 2011 Stolpman Vineyard Roussanne (Santa Barbara County). Rhône
specialist Jaffurs turns their talented hand to this rare
variety, with grapes from the highly-regarded Stolpman
Vineyard, in the emerging Ballard Canyon area. The
wine is, in a word, terrific. It’s dry and crisp, with a fleshy
mouthfeel, and the peach, lime and tropical fruit flavors have a delicious, umami edge of prosciutto. Some
new French oak adds even richer, but balanced, notes of
buttered toast. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $30
Birichino 2012 Malvasia Bianca (Monterey). A beautiful evocation of this up-andcoming variety. While it’s dry and crisp in Monterey
acidity, it shows tantalizing flavors of orange, honey,
cream and vanilla. Birichino is leading the Malvasia
comeback, which could and should rival Muscat. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
90
Campovida 2012 Spirit Canyon Vineyard
Arneis (Mendocino County). Campovida’s
Mendocino take on a classic Italian white, this Arneis is
floral, balancing its high-wire acidity with standout characteristics of lemon, grapefruit and just-ripe pear. This
is a perfect wine to pour with light appetizers or for the
first sip of the day. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $38
90
Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Dutton Ranch
Shop Block Pinot Blanc (Green Valley).
Cross Viognier with Chardonnay and that’s what this
Pinot Blanc tastes like. It’s very fruity, with a spectrum
of peaches, mangoes and Meyer lemons, yet has exotic
notes of white flowers and kumquats. It’s all brightened
with acidity. Oak brings rich toast and vanilla notes.
Complex and lovely to drink now, it will slowly change
in the bottle over 4–5 years. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Firestone 2011 Riesling (Central Coast).
A polished Riesling, oily and soft, with off-dry
flavors of citrus fruits, nectarines, apples and vanilla.
Nice for drinking on a summer afternoon. —S.H.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $14
87
Wente 2011 Riverbank Riesling (Arroyo
Seco). Wente does a consistently good job with
this Riesling, which is from a cool appellation in the Salinas Valley. The ’11 is off-dry and clean in acidity, with
citrus fruit, green apple, honey and spice flavors. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
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Clarksburg Wine Company 2011 Chenin
Blanc (Clarksburg). A Clarksburg Chenin
that does its region proud, this is invitingly floral, with
a thick, viscous imprint of pear and fig and just slightly
sweet at 1.1% residual sugar. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
85
Kokomo 2012 Timber Crest Vineyard
Muscat Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Lots of
delicious orange flavor in this pretty wine. It’s overtly
sweet, but a too soft for comfort. —S.H.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $20
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CK Mondavi 2012 Willow Springs Moscato (California). Made in the sweet, crisp and
fruity style that made Moscato catch on with so many
consumers, this could double as a dessert sipper. It has
flavors of orange meringue pie and vanilla honey. Best
Buy. —S.H.
abv: 10.1%
Price: $7
sparkling wines
91
La Marea 2012 Kristy Vineyard Albariño
(Monterey County). Very well structured,
with zesty acidity and a fine tang of minerals. There’s a
chalky tang to the citrus fruit flavors. Elegant, bone dry,
moderate in alcohol and easy to drink, it’s a superb restaurant wine. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
Schramsberg 2008 Hyde Vineyards Brut
(Carneros). Shows the signature Schramsberg
signature of elegance, with an ultrarefined mousse.
Made primarily from Chardonnay, the lime flavors star,
giving mouthwatering acidity. Then the Pinot Noir kicks
in, with subtle strawberries. The wine is a little aggressive now. Give it 6 or 7 years to let it begin to mellow.
Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $70
92
Jaffurs 2011 Thompson Vineyard Grenache Blanc (Santa Barbara County). Jaffurs is very successful at this Rhône variety, consistently
producing a wine that’s not just rich, but tangy in acidity. This ’11 is one of their best, with low alcohol, vanilla cream and honey flavors. What a great, easy wine to
drink almost anytime. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $27
89
Campovida 2012 Bonofiglio Vineyard
Roussanne (Mendocino County). A fragrant Roussanne that could easily convince doubters
that this variety does impressively stand on its own. Exuding honeysuckle, pear and honey, it’s crisp and nicely
textured with a depth and weight that gives it a sense of
fullness but not fat. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $34
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Andis 2012 Herzog Vineyard Chenin
Blanc (Clarksburg). Amador-based Andis
takes Chenin Blanc to new and wonderful places, with
this beauty. What’ll get you first are the intoxicating aromatics: Tahitian vanilla bean, pear and roses, with layers of orange and lemon zest in an off-dry package. The
lightly sweet palate is balanced, especially on the finish,
this wine just begging for the right spring rolls, fresh
spicy shrimp or vegetable curry. —V.B.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $19
90
Communication Block 2012 Clondaire
Vineyard Grenache Blanc (Calaveras
County). Produced in partnership between Schulz
Cellars and Lamprydae Vineyards, Communication
Block wines benefit Napa Valley Kids Connect, a nonprofit for kids with motor and communication difficulties. Light and very pretty, this Grenache Blanc is easy
drinking with a swish of vanilla on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
Schramsberg 2009 Querencia Brut Rosé
(Napa Valley). The color of this blend of 76%
Chardonnay and 24% Pinot Noir is a rich, golden pink.
It’s medium-bodied and rich in toast, strawberry and
lime flavors that finish a little sweet. The acidity is fabulous. Might develop bottle notes over the years, but why
bother. It’s a beautiful bubbly to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
Schramsberg 2008 Jones Vineyards Brut
(Carneros). Mainly Chardonnay, with the rest
Pinot Noir, this brut is forward in oranges, vanilla and
yeast, with hints of raspberries. The finish clearly shows
the sugary dosage. Seems like it wants time in the bottle
to let all the parts knit, so give it until 2018 to see what
it’s doing. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $70
85
River Road NV Brut (Russian River Valley). Sparkling wine is all about texture, and
the mouthfeel on this Chardonnay-based bubbly lacks
refinement. The bubbles are scoury and the finish is
rough. Still, it has rich citrus, yeast, honey and pear flavors. —S.H.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $22
rosés
91
Campovida 2012 Riserva Rosé (Mendocino County). Lovingly crafted from Gre
nache grapes, this beautifully hued wine is light and
ethereal, everything one could want in a rosé, tasting
of refreshing grapefruit with a subtle layering of spice,
especially on the finish. Fans of Tavel and the fine rosés
from Provence will not be disappointed. Think of pairing with a picnic packed with cheese, cornichons and
charcuterie. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $34
86
Ty Caton 2012 Caton Vineyard Rosé of
Syrah (Sonoma Valley). Pretty full-bodied
for a rosé, but rich and delicate, with raspberry, cherry
and spice flavors that finish a little sweet. So big, you can
even drink this with lamb chops. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
85
Balletto 2012 Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). A little on the sweet
side, but nicely crisp in acidity. The flavors offer generous notes of strawberries, orange zest, sugared tea,
vanilla and cinnamon. —S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $18
85
River Road 2012 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Dark and heavy for a rosé,
with extracted strawberry, red apple and spice flavors
that finish a little sweet. Yet there’s something deliciously
sippable about it. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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Chiarello Family Vineyards 2012 Chiara
Rosé of Zinfandel (Napa Valley). Pricey for
a blush wine, but this is an excellent one, among the
best rosés of the year. It’s fairly dark in color and fullbodied, but very rich in strawberry and spice flavors,
and the finish is smooth and dry. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
Birichino 2012 Vin Gris Rosé (California).
A good rosé, crisp and light-bodied. It has rich
strawberry, orange zest, vanilla and spice flavors. Nice
and silky in the mouth, as a blush wine should be, but
it’s a little on the sweet side. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
88
Fritz 2012 Estate Grown Rosé Wine (Dry
Creek Valley). For full review see page 9.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
88
Le P’tit Paysan 2011 Pierre’s Pirouette
Rosé of Mourvèdre (San Benito County). A lovely rosé, dry and crisp, with peach skin, orange, strawberry and white pepper flavors, highlighted
by brisk acidity. Would score higher if not for a certain
heaviness. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
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Clos du Lac 2012 Estate Rosé (Sierra
Foothills). Made from a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, this Best Buy is a heady combo
of sweet raspberry and plum, dry and straightforward,
ready to open and enjoy now as a very good quaff. Best
Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $10
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Toad Hollow 2012 Eye of the Toad Dry
Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). A
little spritzy, this blush wine’s strawberry and watermelon flavors finish in a swirl of fruity concentration and
spices. It’s a nice weekend brunch wine with a cheese
and bacon soufflé. —S.H.
abv: 11%
Price: $13
Dragonette 2012 Rosé (Happy Canyon of
Santa Barbara). Rosé should be dry, delicate
and crisp in acidity. This Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah blend succeeds on two of those levels, but not dryness. The raspberry fruit has a simple jamminess that’s
almost dessert-style. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
like a white-sugared tropical-fruit-juice blend, with alcohol. On the plus side is clean acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $20
California
red wines
pinot noir
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J. Rochioli 2011 West Block Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). This is a huge wine
that’s dense in flavors, rich in tannins, and with the soft
lusciousness associated with this vineyard. Made from
old vines, it’s bold in cherry pie, red currants and mocha, yet dry and resilient on the finish. Delicious as it is
now, it’s a wine with a successful history for aging. Resist the temptation to drink it now and cellar. Best from
2017 and beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $100
95
Fuchsia 2011 Rosé (California). Sweet
and simple, this easy blush wine has strawberry,
brown sugar and vanilla flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $12
Lynmar 2011 Jenkins Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Everything about
this wine screams for aging. It’s tight in acids and tannins, and the fruitiness tastes young and jammy with
waves of raspberries, cherries, red currants and mocha. By turns, it’s sweet and bitter, but always succulent, and with a finish so long and spicy, it persists after
a full minute. Cellar until 2017, and it should provide
beautiful drinking for many more years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $70
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Kokomo 2012 Pauline’s Vineyard Grenache Rosé (Dry Creek Valley). The alcohol is refreshingly moderate on this blush wine, which
has appealing flavors of oranges, limes and tropical
fruits, brightened with soft acidity. It’s almost as sweet
as a dessert wine, with a sugary finish. —S.H.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $22
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Vina Robles 2012 Roseum Huerhuero
Rosé (Paso Robles). As soon as you unscrew
the top on this 100% Syrah blush wine, the aromas of
raspberries and strawberries release into the air, like incense. Those fruits follow through in the taste, turning
jammy, heavy and sweet. The alcohol is a heady 14.9%
by volume. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $13
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CK Mondavi 2012 Willow Springs White
Zinfandel (California). With an orange-pink
color, this is really a rosé wine. It’s sweet and sugary,
with raspberry and watermelon flavors that are balanced by cleansing acids. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 9.1%
Price: $6
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Loken Cellars NV Reserve Lot 14 Grenache Rosé (California). Pretty dark for a
rosé, and heavy and rich, too. Tastes like a raspberry
Newton cookie. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
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VML 2012 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). This rosé is quite ripe tasting,
Lynmar 2011 Quail Hill Vineyard Summit
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full
review see page 3. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $70
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Lynmar 2011 Freestone Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Richness floods the midpalate with flavors of raspberries, cherries, red currants
and cola, brightened with crisp, zesty acidity. This is
Lynmar’s best Freestone Pinot ever, showing the ability of the vineyard to ripen fruit even in a chilly vintage.
Exciting and stimulating, it’s a wine you want to age for
at least six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $60
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Lynmar 2011 Quail Hill Vineyard Bliss
Block Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
Shows the gorgeousness of fruit this vineyard always delivers, as well as the seemingly impossible balancing act
of feminine generosity and structural power. The result
will be evident to anyone who loves Pinot Noir. This is
a massive wine, ripe with red fruits and berries and mocha, but it’s also worthy of aging. Give it at least six years.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $70
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Lynmar 2011 Quail Hill Vineyard Lynn’s
Blend Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
An awesome wine that shows the power of the estate
vineyard, yet with a deft, elegant touch. You can’t help
but be dazzled by the intense raspberry, cherry, red currant and cola flavors. Yet the acid-tannin balance is su-
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perb, lifting the wine into a thoroughly enjoyable complexity. Drink now, with decanting, and over the next
eight years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $70
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J. Rochioli 2011 Little Hill Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Ultrafine and ripe,
with a tenderness of generosity that belies its firm tannins and ageability. It’s immediately delicious for the
depth of raspberry and cherry pie richness, balanced
with zesty acidity. Yet it’s complex and balanced enough
to warrant aging. Give it 5–6 years, at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $72
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J. Rochioli 2011 River Block Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Easy to love this Pinot for its broadly appealing wild cherry, Dr. Pepper
cola and sweet sandalwood flavors. The sandy River
Block vineyard site shouldn’t produce Pinot as great as
it always does, but Rochioli’s superior vineyard management makes it outstanding, and ageable as well. Drink
now–2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $72
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Lynmar 2011 Quail Hill Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). This is a beautiful wine, dry, rich and complex. It may not have quite
the depth of Lynmar’s block bottlings from the estate
vineyard, but shares their character. Notable for upfront
raspberry, cherry and red currant fruit, it’s balanced by
firm tannins and mouthwatering acidity. Drink now–
2017. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $60
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Pillow Rd. 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Tastes mellow, vibrant and richly
fruity, with strawberry jam flavors deepened by earthier cranberry sauce and hints of ripe heirloom tomatoes and mushrooms. At the age of nearly four years,
it’s achieved quite a bit of complexity, and yet has a long
way to go. An impressive new project from the Stotesberys, of Ladera Vineyards on Howell Mountain. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $50
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J. Rochioli 2011 Three Corner Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). The 2011 vintage of
the Three Corner has yielded a very fine wine, dry and
medium bodied, with raspberry and cherry fruit flavors.
It’s elusive now, not showing its best. Give it 6–8 years
to reveal its inner beauty. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
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La Crema 2010 Nine Barrel Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). There’s a beautiful
delicacy to this Pinot Noir, despite fairly high alcohol.
Yet there’s nothing light about the fruit. Waves of raspberry and cherry jam, ripe persimmons and pomegranates flood the mouth, satisfying and delicious. Good as it
is now, it should develop over the next 5–6 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $90
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Morgan 2011 Double L Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A serious
Pinot Noir for aging, yet it’s so succulent now in rasp-
berries and cherries, it’s hard to resist drinking it. The
acid-tannin balance showcases the terroir, with a brisk
minerality keeping all the ripe fruit and oak balanced.
Give it 4–5 years in a good cellar. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $54
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Saintsbury 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
This is Saintsbury’s basic Pinot Noir and its least
expensive, but it’s actually their most easily drinkable.
It’s a joy to experience with loads of raspberries and
cherries, hints of mushrooms and cola, crisp acidity, and
enriched with a touch of sweet, smoky oak. The alcohol is nice and moderate. Drink now. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $36
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Saintsbury 2010 Brown Ranch Pinot Noir
(Carneros). Marked by silky elegance and an
austere architecture, this Pinot shows what cool-climate
Carneros does in a cool vintage. Aeration brings the
wine to life with a burst of red cherries and currants.
Shows all the hallmarks of an ageable wine, so give it a
good 6–8 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $72
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Dutton-Goldfield 2011 Angel Camp Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Lush
on the palate, the Dutton-Goldfield Angel Camp Pinot
is integrated and silky. With a taste of black cherry and a
candied quality around a core of spice, the wine evolves
into a long, earthy finish, just right for a meal smothered
in exotic mushrooms. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $58
pair this wine with quiche Lorraine or bacon-wrapped
figs. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $36
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Landmark 2011 Grand Detour Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). A wonderful Pinot Noir,
this is nuanced and balanced, and so good it makes
the price seem a relative bargain. It’s enormously rich
in raspberries and cherries, yet brisk in acidity, and the
oak aging adds a dimension of buttered toast. Drink this
fancy Pinot now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $35
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Landmark 2010 Kanzler Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). Acidic and fresh with
jammy fruit and oak, this is finely structured and complex, and should start to get interesting by 2016. Landmark held it back almost three years before release, but
you’ll have to do the rest of the cellaring. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
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Paul Hobbs 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). This dramatic Pinot Noir hits all
the sweet spots. It’s incredibly rich with cherry pie, red
currants, cherry liqueur and smoky sandalwood flavors,
yet remains balanced, due to firm tannins and great
Russian River acidity. Delicious now, and for the next
2–3 years at least. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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Dutton-Goldfield 2011 Dutton Ranch Emerald Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green
Valley). For full review see page 6.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58
Ziata 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros). There’s
some real complexity to this Pinot Noir. Although it’s ripe and jammy with raspberries and cherries, it has extra layers of minerals and herbs that make
it interesting. And the Carneros structure of firm acidity
and tannins strongly suggests the cellar. Try after 2017
to let it begin to mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
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Husch 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Husch’s Reserve Pinot Noir is
something special—floral and earthy with layers of dark
cherry and strawberry. With a sidebar of candied fruit,
it’s well-rounded, a Pinot that can handle savory dishes
of many stripes, from lamb to coq au vin and anything
accented with cooked mushrooms. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $38
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J. Rochioli 2011 Sweetwater Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Sweetwater is Rochioli’s newest estate planting, on the warmer end of
the vineyard. The vines are more than 10 years old, yet
the wine possesses a youthful, forward vibrancy. It’s tart
in acidity, with jammy cherry and cranberry fruit. It’s
a very good wine and should develop bottle complexity around 2016 and beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $72
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Kendric 2009 Pinot Noir (Marin County).
Light in color, this Marin County Pinot Noir is
cool-climate in all its glory, with herbal and red cherry
layers swathed in silky tannins and a finish of cola spice.
A lovely introduction to Marin’s propensity for Pinot,
Birichino 2011 Lilo Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Cruz Mountains). Fresh and fruity,
with strawberry and raspberry flavors that are front and
center, this easy Pinot has good acidity. The alcohol is
nice and low, giving the wine a dry elegance. Nice to
drink now with Pinot-friendly fare, such as lamb, grilled
salmon, mushroom risotto. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $38
Lucie 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Ripely delicious and jammy with raspberries, red cherries, and sweet-buttered-toast notes, this
Pinot is great for drinking now with steak or lamb chops.
With a crisp edge of acidity, it’s as elegant and tasty as
Russian River Pinot gets. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Lynmar 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). In terms of opulence and complexity,
this is the least of Lynmar’s 2011 Pinot Noirs. But it’s all
relative, because this is a fantastic wine. Its hallmarks
are dryness, moderate alcohol, tart acidity and a silky
texture. The sour-cherry candy and persimmon flavors
have a mushroomy edge that suggests wild mushroom
risotto. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $45
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Saintsbury 2010 Lee Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Carneros). Ripe and delicious in fruit, this
Pinot tastes like juicy raspberries, cherries and persimmons drizzled with brown sugar and vanilla. A touch of
heat shows on the finish. Drink now–2014 for freshness. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $54
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Breggo 2011 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This is a stemmy, mouth-filling Pinot Noir
crafted from Anderson Valley fruit, showing cherry and
pomegranate with a touch of toast. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
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Lynmar 2011 Quail Hill Vineyard Old
Vines Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
This old vines Pinot has an unusual strength of flavor.
It’s easily the most powerful of Lynmar’s new Pinots,
with deep, brooding cherry and red currant flavors
that have been concentrated to syrupy intensity like a
boiled-down fruit-wine sauce. It’s impressive, but intensely rich. Give it 5–6 years to see if things change.
—S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $70
89
Miro 2011 Floodgate Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). This delicious Pinot
Noir is Miro’s best ever. It’s ripe in fruit and spices, offering wave after wave of raspberry Newton, brown sugar, Dr. Pepper cola, cinnamon and sandalwood flavors
that persist through a long finish. Easy to like now, but
it’s not an ager. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
erate in alcohol. There’s a troubling note of unripeness
that may limit ageability, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $44
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Fritz 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The texture is a bit rough for a Pinot Noir,
lacking the silkiness you expect. Instead, you get the briary, brambly mouthfeel of a Zinfandel. But the wine is
very flavorful in cherries and red currants. Give it a decant and drink up with grilled beef or lamb. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $30
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Morgan 2011 Twelve Clones Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Shows the Morgan signature of full-bodied weight, concentrated raspberry and cherry fruit, brisk acidity, notable tannins and
dryness that make their Pinots Noirs so enjoyable. Very
nice to drink now and over the next 3–4 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $32
88
Pfendler 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Pfendler has striven to raise the quality
of their Pinot Noir, and this 2011 keeps them firmly in
place. It’s a good, sound wine, dry and silky, with bright
acidity and fine raspberry and cherry flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $45
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Six Sigma 2010 Christian’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Lake County). This is a Pinot Noir
of depth and concentration, that’s earthy with smooth
tannins. With darker fruit tones true to its warmer inland climate, it’s nice and easy, a good pairing for pulled
pork. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Saintsbury 2010 Stanly Ranch Pinot
Noir (Carneros). Soft and sweetly fruity at
this time, offering ripe, candied raspberry, cherry and
red currant flavors. It’s a little direct and brown sugary,
but shows enough stuffing that it could develop earthy,
mushroomy complexities in 5–6 years. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $54
Sonoma-Cutrer 2010 Owsley Vineyard
Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). Sonoma-Cutrer’s Pinots have been disappointing in the past, but this release is a huge improvement.
It’s dry, silky in the mouth, and complex in flavors, offering hints of sour-cherry candy, red licorice, prosciutto,
cola and sweet, smoky sandalwood. Best enjoyed now
for its richness. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
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Ampelos 2009 Lambda Pinot Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). Dry and acidic, this Pinot is a bit
tough and rustic now, with sour cherry, persimmon and
oak flavors. But it’s elegantly constructed, with some
complexity and a silky texture. Seems to be giving its
best now and over the next 3–4 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $35
88
Dragonette 2011 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills). Shows the bright acidity and pure fruit
of the Santa Rita Hills, with lots of cherry pulp and bitter skin, red licorice and raspberry flavors. It’s also mod-
Toad Hollow 2011 Goldie’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This dry,
acidic young Pinot Noir isn’t offering much richness,
but does have a nice heart of cherries and persimmons.
Nice and elegant, it’s pretty good for the price. Give it
an hour in a decanter and drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $20
Ampelos 2011 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills).
This Pinot has a silky mouthfeel and bracing
acidity. In keeping with the chilly vintage, the flavors
are barely ripe, suggesting sour-cherry candies, persimmons and cranberries. But it’s dry and elegant. Give it
some decanting and drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $25
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Claiborne & Churchill 2010 Pinot Noir
(Edna Valley). An easy Pinot Noir, but by no
means lacking elegance. It shows the moderate body
and crisp, citrusy acidity that usually marks Edna Valley Pinot Noir, with pure, direct flavors of sour-cherry
candy, cola, cinnamon and toast. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $28
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Frank Family 2011 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
Offers dependable Pinot Noir character, with a
silky texture, crisp acidity and fruity flavors that are elegantly dry. But it’s not the best example of what the winery can do. It’s very acidic, a trait that won’t age away.
Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
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Husch 2010 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Finding a good Anderson Valley Pinot
Noir for under $25 is no easy feat and so this Husch
bottling is impressive in delivering a fairly good experience for the price. A tad chewy still, with an oaky presence, it shows dark, ripe strawberry and mushroom-y
flavors and finishes with some spice. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $23
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Kokomo 2011 Peters Vineyard Winemaker’s Reserve Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
This brisk Pinot offers a rich array of raspberries and
cherries, with oak influences. It’s bright in acidity, with a
dry finish, and the alcohol is relatively low. It tastes a little rude and rustic now, but could develop some bottle
complexity over the next 5–6 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $48
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Saintsbury 2010 Toyon Farm Pinot Noir
(Carneros). This is a good Pinot Noir that’s
full-bodied, dry and silky in the mouth, with crisp acidity. It shows raspberry, cola and green tea flavors. Hard
to predict if it has a future, so drink now–2014. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $54
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Trinitas 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
Marked by bright acidity and jammy raspberry,
cherry and cola flavors, this Pinot is nicely silky, but a bit
one-dimensional. It has a long, spicy finish. Drink over
the next 2–3 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
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Woodenhead 2009 Wiley’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Woodenhead
makes a range of Pinot Noirs from both the Russian
River and Anderson valleys and this one starts out with
an earthy ring of raspberry, a lot of black tea and some
herbal undertones. Still impacted from its time in oak,
the finish is hard to pinpoint, slightly spicy and unresolved. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $60
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Bewitched 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). With brown sugar notes giving the
raspberries and cherries a candied sweetness, this Pinot
is ready to drink now. It has fine acidity and a delicate,
silky texture. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $30
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Dunstan 2010 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). You can taste the chilliness
of the vintage in two ways in this elegant, dry wine. It’s
very acidic, and it’s also a little green, with a minty edge
to the strawberries and raspberries. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
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River Road 2011 Stephanie’s Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Green Valley). Pretty good
Pinot for the price, showing Russian River silkiness,
dryness and acidic structure. The cola, sour-cherry
candy and persimmon flavors are classic, if a little thin.
Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $20
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Sebastiani 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Fresh and fruity, with strawberry and
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raspberry flavors that are front and center, this easy
Pinot has good acidity. The alcohol is nice and moderate, giving the wine elegance. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
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Storyteller 2011 Into the Fog Pinot Noir
(Los Carneros). This is an easy wine to drink
now. There’s some real elegance, with brisk acidity and
fine tannins framing sour cherry and cranberry fruit.
The silky texture is pure Pinot Noir. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Windward Vineyard 2008 Estate Bottled
Monopole Pinot Noir (Paso Robles). Lots
of rich raspberry, cherry and cola flavors in this Pinot
Noir. It has a delicate, silky texture and some true complexity, but is a little too soft to age. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $38
85
Courtney Benham 2011 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Light in texture and color,
this smoky Pinot Noir has a hugely woody quality to it.
Dark tones overpower and overtake fruit on the palate.
—V.B.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $25
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Kendall-Jackson 2011 Vintner’s Reserve
Pinot Noir (California). On this Pinot’s plus
side is a clean savoriness, with bright acidity highlighting raspberry, cocoa and spice flavors. On the debit side
is its soft, fleshy ripeness. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Paul Dolan 2010 Filigreen Pinot Noir
(Mendocino County). This is a huge Pinot
Noir—big-boned all around—tasting of warm climate
fruit, with bulky tannins and a heavy oak presence. Let
it open a bit to let out the dark plum and earthy spice
flavors. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $33
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Sebastiani 2011 Robert’s Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Carneros). Falls somewhere between
everyday and fancy, with an unripe, green edge and
sharp acidity marring the silky texture and raspberry
and cherry fruit. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
85
Vino Vargas 2011 Rio Russo Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). A simple Pinot Noir,
lacking much structure. But it has a delicate mouthfeel
and offers pleasant raspberry, cola, brown sugar and
toasty oak flavors. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
84
Rocking K 2010 Single Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Carneros). Thin and dry, this wine has
Pinot’s silky mouthfeel, but little else. The mushroom,
cola and spearmint flavors are relieved by some cherry
fruit. Not going anywhere, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $55
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Michael Pozzan 2011 Dante Reserve Pinot Noir (California). Has the silky weight
and flavors of a nice Pinot Noir, with pleasant orange
rind and sour-cherry candy notes. But there’s a green
scouriness that cuts through the palate like a sharp
knife. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
with cherry, licorice and spice flavors. A pretty good value, showing some real delicacy and complexity. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
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River Road 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
County). A little unripe, with a vegetal tug that
pulls down the score. Beyond hints of steamed broccoli
you’ll find some raspberry and cherry fruit, with lots of
sweet, toasty oak and keen acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $15
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Curtis 2010 Grenache (Santa Barbara
County). This is a wine of grace and purity that
doesn’t try to overwhelm you with richness. The flavor
is reminiscent of ripe cherries with the tartness of their
skins, and a touch of lavendar and smoky oak. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
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Ampelos 2008 Rho Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills). Tastes rustic and harsh, with acidity giving it a sting. The fruit is drying out and turning raisiny.
—S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
Sutcliffe 2011 Pinot Noir (Los Carneros).
Soft and heavy, tasting like the syrup of a cherrycola drink. Ready for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
La Marea 2011 Spur Ranch Grenache
(San Benito County). A very good Grenache,
soft and appealing, with furry tannins framing rich
flavors of cherries, herb tea and spices. Has the silky
weight of a nice Pinot Noir. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
tempranillo
Ampelos 2008 Delta Grenache (Sta. Rita
Hills). Still tannic and acidic after all these
years, this dry Grenache offers a ripe heart of cherries
and cherry liqueur. Earns a point or two for elegance.
Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $35
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Hoyt Family Vineyards 2010 Tempranillo
(Paso Robles). Hoyt’s 2010 Tempranillo is
a huge improvement over their 2009. The fruit is riper and more focused, making the wine more balanced
and interesting. Strong acids and firm tannins bracket
concentrated cherry jam, red currant and bacon flavors
made for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $45
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syrah
Straight Line 2011 Tempranillo (California). This is one of the better California Tempranillos out there. It’s delicate and silky on the palate,
and earthy despite rich raspberry and cherry fruit. Balanced with crisp acidity and a scour of dusty tannins, it’s
complex enough to enjoy with a great steak, especially
with mushrooms. A consistent followup to the winery’s
2010. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $27
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Opolo 2010 Tempranillo (Paso Robles).
An everday wine, this is silky and crisp, with ripe
raspberry and cherry flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $24
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Landmark 2010 Steel Plow Estate Vineyard Grenache (Sonoma Valley). This is a
superb California Grenache. Few are, but with this bottling, Landmark sets the bar high. Delicately textured
with silky tannins and flavors of raspberry, fig, bacon
and sweet, smoky oak flavors. Complex and enormously
drinkable, it’s made from 100% Grenache, and there’s
not a trace of the sweet or green imbalance that can mar
this variety. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
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Birichino 2011 Vieilles Vignes Besson
Vineyard Grenache (Central Coast). This
wine is dry, light bodied and brisk in acidity. It’s tasty
Jaffurs 2010 Grenache (Santa Barbara County). This pleasant Grenache has the
weight and texture of Pinot Noir. It’s light and silky in
the mouth, with moderate acohol and savory acidity.
Shows cherry, cola and herb flavors for drinking now.
—S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $34
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Jaffurs 2010 Upslope Syrah (Santa Barbara County). This is Jaffurs’ reserve-style
Syrah, the best barrels from various vineyards. It’s softly
tannic and incredibly complex, with waves of blackberry jam, cassis, chocolate, gingersnap cookie and pepper
flavors that are rich and intense. Beautiful and compelling, the wine finishes dry. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $75
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Jaffurs 2010 Thompson Vineyard Syrah
(Santa Barbara County). Shows spectacular ripeness, with flavors ranging from ripe blackberries
and currants to mocha, moo shu plum sauce, sautéed
mushrooms and gingersnap cookies. All this is folded
into firm but gentle tannins, brightened by brisk acidity
and enriched by a gentle touch of oak. A beautiful Syrah
for drinking now and over the next few years. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $46
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Jaffurs 2010 Verna’s Vineyard Syrah
(Santa Barbara County). California’s warm,
dry summers are the star of this wine. They have given
it lusciously ripe, opulent blackberry, cherry, plum, currant and cassis flavors. For all the richness, the wine is
balanced in a tension of tannins and acidity, and the finish is totally dry. Young and vibrant now, it will develop
additional complexities over the next six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $46
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Arrowood 2010 Saralee’s Vineyard Syrah
(Russian River Valley). Huge in blackberry,
currant and dark chocolate flavors, yet locked down by
sturdy tannins. Shows indisputable pedigree in the balance and complexity. Good now, with airing, but give it
3–4 years in the cellar to get even better. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $30
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Jaffurs 2010 Ampelos Vineyard Syrah
(Sta. Rita Hills). Jaffurs ventures west of their
usual haunt in the Santa Ynez Valley to source fruit
from this cool-climate site in the Santa Rita Hills. The
result is their most brisk, tart Syrah. But it shows the
winery’s signature authority, with richly textured blackberry, black pepper, Dr. Pepper cola, crisped bacon and
smoky oak flavors. Superb, and delicious for drinking
now. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $46
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Jaffurs 2010 Larner Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). A beautiful Syrah, lovely to drink now for its rich, ripe array of blackberries,
cherries, blueberries, currants and spices. The acidity
is great, but the nicest thing about it is the tannin structure—so complex, soft and textured. The vineyard is in
the heart of the Santa Ynez Valley. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $46
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90
Lost Canyon 2008 Trenton Station Vineyard Syrah (Russian River Valley). For full
review see page 7. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
89
Ampelos 2009 Gamma Syrah (Sta. Rita
Hills). This Syrah is inky black in color. It explodes on the palate with black currants, herbs and
black pepper, with a distinct note of animal and char,
like a roasted bone. There’s some real complexity, as
well as deliberate restraint. Good to drink now, with
proper decanting, and could develop interestingly over
the next 4–5 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $35
89
Straight Line 2011 Syrah (Santa Barbara
County). A very good Syrah that’s even better
than the 2010 because it’s drier and has better structure. It’s rich in blackberry jam, dark chocolate, bacon and black pepper flavors, wrapped up in smooth,
creamy tannins. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $29
88
Sutcliffe 2010 Syrah (Sonoma Valley).
Heady in alcohol and dense in tannins, this
Syrah has a mouth-filling richness of blackberry jam,
plums, dark chocolate and pepper. It’s absolutely delicious. A bit too soft for aging, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $30
Vagabond 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). Big,
big, big Syrah, offering an explosion of blackberry jam, blueberry pie, dark chocolate and currant flavors, with the meaty, charred-bone character of a fine,
cool-climate Syrah. The tannins are firm and the acidity
brisk. This young, dramatic wine wants some years in
the cellar to tone down. Best after 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $60
Curtis 2010 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Curtis aims at maximum extraction and
succeeds with this wildly fruity Syrah. It’s explosive in
blackberries, currants and plums, with notes of black
pepper, dark chocolate and roasted meats, sweetened
with oak. Rich in tannins, it’s made for drinking now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $28
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Jaffurs 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Syrah
(Santa Barbara County). A fine, delicious
Syrah, ripe with blackberries and plums, with intriguing notes of currants, pomegranates, pepper and cassis.
Shows the purity of Bien Nacido, with balancing acidity and firm but pliant tannins. Wonderful to drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $46
91
Rocca 2009 Grigsby Vineyard Syrah
(Yountville). Rocca has struggled with their
Syrah over the years, but with this 2009, they’ve found
their niche. It’s a lovely wine, softly tannic and ripe in
cherry liqueur, red currants, plums and bacon. New oak
brings complex notes of sweet toast. Drink over the next
2–3 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $50
90
Coastview 2009 North Block Syrah (Monterey County). Shows delicious blackberry,
currant and pepper flavors, with notes of baker’s chocolate and bacon showing up midway. The wine is entirely dry, with firm tannins and a welcome, crisp acidity
that must come from Monterey’s cool climate. Elegantly
structured, it benefits from an hour or two in the decanter. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
87
Opolo 2010 Syrah (Paso Robles). Very
tasty, with succulent blackberry and cherry jam
and oak flavors that are easy to like. It’s a little on the
soft side, with notably high alcohol that gives it a rich,
glycerine finish. A fine wine to drink now with grilled
beef, chicken or game. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $24
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Firestone 2010 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). Marred by unripe asparagus notes, this
Syrah is tough to like despite its smooth tannins and
some good blackberry and chocolate fruit. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $25
petite sirah
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Miro 2011 Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). A great Petite Sirah that preserves the variety’s rich power, yet reins it in toward elegance. It’s
enormously concentrated in ripe blueberry and cherry
pie fruit, spiced with black pepper, and wrapped into
thick but soft tannins. There’s a ripeness to the finish
that makes it succulent, but it’s dry in style. Compelling
and delicious, it drinks beautifully now —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $26
91
Chiarello Family Vineyards 2010 Roux
Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). This Petite Sirah is high in alcohol, but the wine wears it well. It’s almost overripe, with suggestions of raisins and prunes,
but that’s just part of its robust personality. What you get
is an enormously rich, tannic wine, stuffed with blackberries. It’s a very big wine, and needs big foods, especially barbecued beef, with a crust of smoky-sweet char.
—S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $65
91
Le P’tit Paysan 2011 Petite Sirah (Monterey County). This Petite Sirah explores new
territory for the variety—it’s dry, tannic, tart and complex, with waves of of blackberries, black currants, tobacco, black tea, black pepper and sandalwood. Should
age well for at least 10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $22
90
Jaffurs 2011 Thompson Vineyard Petite
Sirah (Santa Barbara County). This is an
excellent Petite Sirah that’s robust and high in alcohol, and rich, with flamboyant cherry jam, red currant,
white chocolate, persimmon and spice flavors. Almost
like Port on the palate, it’s a great wine to sip and savor. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $34
86
Spellbound 2011 Petite Sirah (California). Sometimes you just need a savory red
wine to drink right away. This is such a wine. It shows
Petite Sirah’s full body and tannins, and is softly delicious, with black cherry and chocolate flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
zinfandel
95
Williams Selyem 2011 Papera Vineyard
Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). For full
review see page 3. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $52
92
Miro 2011 Wolcott-Bevill & Piccetti Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Miro is building an impressive track record for Zinfandel, putting to
shame many others that cost far more. This ’11 is as
good as anything they’ve done, and defines Dry Creek
Valley with its ripe, briary berry, tobacco, cocoa and
spice flavors. Smooth in tannins and bright with acidity,
it’s beautiful to drink now with beef in almost any form.
Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $26
91
Ridge 2011 East Bench Zinfandel (Dry
Creek Valley). Ridge likes to keep alcohol levels moderate, but you can’t do that with a Dry Creek
Zinfandel. This one’s heady, but affirms the winery’s
style of dryness and balance. It’s briary and brambly
with wild blueberries and black raspberries, currants,
sweet tobacco and sandalwood, with a delicious scour
of spices. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $28
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91
River Road 2011 Boschetti Vineyard Old
Vine Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). For
full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $18
90
Edmeades 2010 Zinfandel (Mendocino
County). For full review see page 7.
abv: 15%
Price: $20
90
Sequum 2010 Kidd Ranch Zinfandel
(Napa Valley). Name a spice and it’s probably in this brisk, tannic young Zin. But of all the world’s
spices, it’s black pepper that stars. It’s king to blackberry’s queen, with the rest of the court consisting of black
currants, licorice, tobacco, star anise, Tabasco sauce and
dark, bitter chocolate. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $35
90
Sequum 2010 Riverwash Zinfandel (Dry
Creek Valley). The word “briary” is hard to
define. In Zinfandel, it suggests wild berries, ripe under
the summer sun, but also the peppery weeds that grow
nearby, many of them succulent herbs with bracing medicinal qualities. Dry Creek Zins are famous for these
notes, and this is a classic Dry Creek Zin. The alcohol is
quite high, but not out of balance, and the overall impression is the essence of Sonoma old-vine Zinfandel.
—S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $35
89
Chiarello Family Vineyards 2010 Felicia
Zinfandel (St. Helena). This is a high-alcohol
Zin; it almost tastes like Port, with rich raisin, chocolate, blackberry and nettle flavors. It’s admirable for
sheer power, but will go to your head after a glass or
two. —S.H.
abv: 15.9%
Price: $75
89
Frog’s Leap 2011 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). An easy wine to drink now, this is rich
and mellow with black cherry. raspberry jam and exotic
spice flavors. Feels rich in the mouth, with supportive
tannins and a nice bite of acidity for balance. Not an
ager, but a fine example of how Napa brings elegance to
Zin’s country-cousin personality. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $30
89
Woodenhead 2009 Guido Venturi Vineyard Zinfandel (Mendocino County).
Woodenhead does Pinot Noir well, too, but here it
shows its skill with Zinfandel, producing a structured,
peppery and leathery version bright in briary blackberry and plum. With fierce minerality at its core, this is a
distinctive Zin for those who prefer their wines savory
and earthy. —V.B.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $34
88
Chiarello Family Vineyards 2010 Giana
Zinfandel (St. Helena). This is a big, robust,
country-style Zin, that’s power packed with fruit. The
blackberry, blueberry and chocolate-covered raisin flavors go to your head fast, like Port. Bring your designated driver and enjoy with grilled beef. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $55
86
Dogwood 2010 Primitivo (Russian River
Valley). A fruit-forward Zinfandel, packed with
briary blackberry jam, pepper, currant, bacon and cedar
flavors. It’s a little ripe and hot in alcohol. Drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $36
86
Hanna 2010 Bismark Mountain Vineyard
Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). This high altitude vineyard reliably produces enormously ripe fruit
with correspondingly giant alcohol and tannin levels.
The palate is full of chocolate-covered raisin and blackberry jam flavors, but it’s a little over the top. —S.H.
abv: 16.2%
Price: $53
86
Ledson 2009 Century Vine Zinfandel
(Russian River Valley). Exceptionally ripe
and rich with blackberry and blueberry jam, raisin,
cocoa and peppery spice flavors, this Zin is also hot
with alcohol. It’s a big, robust, rustic, Port-like wine for
drinking now, especially with barbecue. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $66
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Occasio 2010 Del Arroyo Vineyard Zinfandel (Livermore Valley). There’s lots to
like about this wine, from its soft tannins and floral
opening aromas to its spicy layers and integrated tannins. But at 16.5% alcohol, it’s a crazy big wine, which
makes it a difficult wine to pair with food or enjoy over a
night without regrets in the morning. —V.B.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $35
on its own, it’s simple and awkward, but paté is kind to
it. —S.H.
abv: 16.1%
Price: $29
81
Opolo 2011 Summit Creek Zinfandel
(Paso Robles). Overripe, with raisiny flavors,
and hot in alcohol. Tart acidity gives it cut. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $19
80
Opolo 2011 Reserve Zinfandel (Paso
Robles). Way too high in alcohol, giving it the
ripe, hot, raisiny taste of a simple Port. —S.H.
abv: 16.3%
Price: $44
cabernet sauvignon
96
Flora Springs 2010 Rutherford Hillside
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Don’t even think of opening this Cab before
2018. It’s very tannic and closed, and locked down in
astringency still. But it’s so balanced, so rich with blackberries, chocolate and cassis, and yet so dry and minerally, that it’s the modern poster child for an ageable
Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Wonderful to see this
veteran Napa producer remaining vital and relevant after all these years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
96
Ridge 2011 Benito Dusi Ranch Zinfandel
(Paso Robles). Tastes higher in alcohol than
the official reading of 14.5% abv, with some heat accompanying the raisin, cassis and sweet oak flavors. Doesn’t
conform to Ridge’s house style, but it is a solid interpretation of Paso Robles Zinfandel. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
Freemark Abbey 2009 Sycamore Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford).
An amazing wine, possibly the winery’s finest Sycamore
ever. California Cab doesn’t get riper or more concentrated than this. It dazzles with black currants, crème de
cassis and chocolate, yet is firm and dry throughout. The
tannin-acid balance is near perfect. Really impresses for
sheer power and authority, and will age for a very long
time. Best after 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $100
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Sobon Estate 2009 ReZerve Zinfandel
(Amador County). This is a dark, brooding
and earthy Zin, that’s high in alcohol, intensely oaky, and
with a huge black pepper character that dives head first
towards the finish into slightly pruny land. —V.B.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $24
84
Rutherford Ranch 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (Napa Valley). This is a decent Zin for
drinking now. It’s dry and tannic, with briary flavors of
wild forest fruits and spices. Some unripe green notes
compromise the score. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $22
82
Loken Cellars 2010 Reserve Lot 13 Tecklenberg Ranch Zinfandel (California).
Tastes unevenly ripened, with vegetal notes alongside
the berries. Also feels overly soft and hot in alcohol.
—S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $25
81
Opolo 2011 Mountain Zinfandel (Paso
Robles). Soft, and rich with glycerine and alcohol, this Zin is almost a Port wine on the palate. Drunk
Cardinale 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). The vintage was generally a
good one in Napa Valley, and with this ’09, Cardinale
shows its usual sumptuousness. It’s beautiful and elegant, with hard, chewy tannins framing intensely concentrated blackberries and cassis. Blended from various
vineyards by winemaker Chris Carpenter, the wine is as
stylish as Napa Cabernet gets. Full bodied and heady,
it should provide good drinking over the next 12 years.
—S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $250
95
Flora Springs 2010 Rennie Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). This is a tremendous wine that’s packed with flavor and dramatically structured. It’s made in the modern cult style of
exceptionally rich and ripe with sweet, toasty oak, and
delicious blackberries, black currants, dark chocolate
and anise. The tannins are strong, but refined. Begin
popping the cork in eight years, and this beauty could
still be going strong in 2028, maybe beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
95
Janzen 2010 Beckstoffer Missouri
Hopper Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $100
95
JCB 2010 No. 10 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). The word massive barely begins to describe this Cabernet Sauvignon. It aims to
compete with anything from Napa Valley, and does
so largely successfully. The palate offers waves of ripe
blackberries, black currants, dark chocolate and smoky
oak flavors. What’s harder to put into words is the elegance and balance. Despite its serious heft, the wine
feels comfortable in the mouth. Indisputably an ager, it
should begin to mellow after 2018, and continue to offer pleasure for many years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $200
95
Sodaro 2009 Doti/Sodaro Blocks 2 and
6 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This
wine was crafted by Napa veterans Bill and Dawnine
Dyer, from grapes grown on the estate Coombsville
vineyard. It defines the modern style of ripe, soft, luscious Napa Cabernet, yet brings a firm structure that
suggests the cellar. Give it 6–8 years, and it could still be
going strong at the age of twenty. A mere 75 cases were
produced. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $125
95
Stonestreet 2010 Rockfall Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This is an awesome Cabernet, that’s so packed with blackberries and
cassis, it blows your mind. The richness is superbly balanced by fine acidity and sweet, complex tannins that
rein everything into a focused structure. Feels velvety,
refined and ageable. Hold until 2018 and drink it for an
additional decade or beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $100
95
Terra Valentine 2010 K-Block Estate
Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring
Mountain). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $65
94
Communication Block 2010 Lampyridae
Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount
Veeder). Serious cellar Cabernet here. It’s eruptive
with jammy, blackberries, cherries and black currants,
with a delicious edge of dark chocolate. The new oak
adds spicy, pungent notes of buttered toast and caramel. Yet it’s also very tannic. So balanced and finessed,
this Cab should have no trouble negotiating the next 10plus years. Maybe longer. Much longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $100
94
Freemark Abbey 2009 Bosché Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). This
legendary bottling shows all the hallmarks of a young,
vital Cabernet that needs plenty of time. It’s classically
balanced and rich in blackberries, currants and chocolate, with perhaps a bit more tannic structure than in
the past, due to the cool vintage. Drink from 2018 and
well beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $100
94
Janzen 2010 Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville).
Enormously rich and complex, with blackberry and currant flavors accompanied by notes of green olives and
new oak. The tannins are thick, but ripe. Way too young
to drink now due to the closed-down astringency, the
wine practically begs to be cellared. Give it 6–10 years.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $175
94
Michael James Wines 2009 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). Held back
for nearly four years, the tannins in this bottling have
begun to resolve, but it’s still a tight, immature wine that
needs lots of time. Enormously rich and concentrated
with mountain blackberries, dark chocolate and minerals, its balance puts it right up there among the Napa
players. Give it 6–8 years to show what it can do. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $58
94
Mt. Brave 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mount Veeder). Fantastically concentrated
with blackberry, cassis and dark chocolate flavors that
are wrapped into massive tannins, this impressive Cab
defines Mount Veeder’s early deliciousness coupled
with ageability. It’s just beginning to soften and show
what it can do. It’s still a tight, hard young wine whose
elegance will allow it to evolve over the next 8–12 years.
abv: 15%
Price: $75
94
Rocca 2009 Tesorina (Napa Valley). Rocca’s most expensive wine is 100% Cabernet, although it doesn’t say so on the label. It’s very rich and
flamboyant, offering waves of blackberries and cassis liqueur. 100% new French oak shows up, but it’s in keeping with the wine’s volume. With massive tannins and
brilliant balance, there’s no reason this shouldn’t age for
a long time. Start enjoying it after 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $145
93
Black Stallion 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 4.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $65
93
Chiarello Family Vineyards 2009 Eileen
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is
a big Cabernet that’s dark, dry and tannic. It locks the
palate down with astringency now, but it’s so complex,
and so power packed with blackberries, cassis and dark
chocolate, it should have no trouble negotiating the next
ten years, maybe longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $85
93
Gershon Bachus 2005 Aquilo North
Wind Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Seven-plus years of aging have been kind to this
single-vineyard Cabernet. Blended with a drop of Petit Verdot, it’s rich and soft with black currant and dark
chocolate flavors that are mellow and complex. Should
continue to develop bottle complexity for another 5–10
years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $65
93
Renteria 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mount Veeder). The 2008 vintage was a very
good one for Renteria, as this bottling proves. Held
back for nearly five years, it still shows those tough
Veeder tannins. But the concentration of black currants
is enormous. A wonderful wine, but it still needs plenty
of time. Try after 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $50
93
Rocca 2009 Collinetta Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $85
93
Rocca 2009 Grigsby Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Yountville). For full review see
page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $80
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Stonestreet 2010 Bear Point Cabernet
Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
Stonestreet 2010 Christopher’s Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This
low-production Cab defines Stonestreet’s mountain
vineyard, high above the Alexander Valley. It’s very tannic now, with the drying astringency that marks a young
wine. Given the fruity concentration, it should have
no trouble aging for 10–15 years. High elevation fruit
yields an amazing combination of cassis, minerals, tannins and acidic freshness. Drink 2020 and beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $100
93
Anakota 2009 Helena Montana Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). For
full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
Stonestreet 2010 Monument Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). For
abv: 14%
Price: $45
Anakota 2009 Helena Dakota Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). For
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
92
Arrowood 2009 Reserve Speciale Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). This
is deliciously drinkable now despite firm tannins that
give it a bite of astringency. Blackberry, cherry, currant
and chocolate flavors testify to it’s ideal ripeness. Should
glidepath in its evolution until 2020 or so. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $90
92
Atalon 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). This is a good value. It’s tannins, weight
and intensity of cassis-liqueur flavor brings it right up
there with some of Napa’s more expensive Cabs. Rich
WineMag.com | 25
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and flashy for drinking now and over the next 4–5 years.
—S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $35
ing. Drink from 2017 and beyond. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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B Cellars 2010 Syn3rgy Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A blend sourced from
three vineyards, this Cabernet Sauvignon is intense with
black currants, with plenty of new oak and hard tannins.
Thoroughly dry, it’s a bit hot in alcohol. Hold until 2018
and see what it does. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $65
92
Emblem 2009 Oso Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A first-class Cabernet, this shows a heady concentration of blackberries
and cassis, yet there also are fascinating notes of olives
and savory dried herbs that are Bordeaux-esque. The
tannins are strong and pure, suggesting ageability. Give
it 6–8 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $50
92
Flora Springs 2010 Wild Boar Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Shows
the winery’s signature of ripe, extravagant fruit, extracted with blackberries, cherries, currants and licorice.
The finish is thoroughly dry. There’s a rusticity in the
tannins, which should smooth out over the next 6–10
years. The grapes are from the warm, inland Pope Valley region. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $85
92
Janzen 2010 Cloudy’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Incredibly
rich and dense with blackberry jam, chocolate and cassis liqueur flavors, yet still dry, this Cabernet defines the
modern style of balanced extraction. The vineyard is in
the easterly Vaca Mountains, and this 2010 is one of its
finest, most ageworthy expressions. Drink now–2020.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $100
92
JCB 2010 No. 1 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This is dazzlingly rich and delicious. It swamps the mouth with ripe blackberry and
cherry jam, cassis liqueur, chocolate and sweet new oak
flavors, wrapped into fine tannins, and brightened with
just-in-time acidity. High alcohol creates some heat, and
it’s not an ager, so drink now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $200
92
JD 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond
Mountain). A rich fruitiness pervades this wine
with waves of blueberry and cherry pie, dark chocolate and a splash of heady cassis liqueur. Plenty of new
French oak shows up, in the form of caramel. The tannins are sturdy, but surprisingly supple for a Diamond
Mountain Cabernet. You can drink it now, but there’s no
reason it shouldn’t glidepath over the next 8–10 years.
—S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $50
92
Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County).
Brooding and tannic, this Cab is hard to appreciate now.
But it’s massively rich and concentrated with blackberry
and cassis flavors, and the overall balance suggests ag-
Paul Hobbs 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This is a fine Cabernet, dry and
complex, with beautiful Napa tannins. It has layers of
blackberries, currants and mocha, and the oak is apparent. There are some overripe raisins in there, but nothing the wine can’t handle. With a ripe, spicy finish, it
drinks well now, but will be better after 2018. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $75
Robert Craig 2010 Affinity Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see
page 5. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
92
Silver Trident 2010 Twenty Seven Fathoms Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
For full review see page 5.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $75
91
Xurus 2007 Sonatina Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Lake County). The 2007 Xurus Cabernet, made by Denis and May-Britt Malbec,
opens with lushly inviting aromas of cassis and cranberry. It’s silky and balanced in weight and texture, with
smooth tannins and a distinctively savory finish. Enjoy
now with refined meat-based meals or cellar for another
5–7 years. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $80
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Bacio Divino 2010 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A rich, opulent
Cabernet, made in the modern style. It’s firm in tannins and dense with blackberry, currant, olive, dark
chocolate and new oak flavors, but is really too young
to drink now. Give it at least 6–8 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $80
in flavor, offering tiers of blackberries, cherries, currants, herbs and spices. Wants some time, but not a lot.
Drink 2015–2018. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
Sauvignon (Lake County). Rich and robust
with smooth tannins, this Lake County Cabernet tastes
deliciously austere, with leather, cedar and earth layered over crisp mountain berry fruit. More like the Xurus 2007 than the 2008, it should age just as gracefully,
with its savory nature strengthening over time. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $75
Kasuari 2010 Parady Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A big Cabernet,
showing the dramatic mouthfeel that well-made Napa
Cabernet always has. It’s full bodied, dry and softly tannic, with classic blackberry and currant flavors. Should
hold in the bottle for about six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $59
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Peju 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). Rich, ripe and flashy, this Cabernet
scores high on the deliciousness factor. That is Peju’s
speciality, and here they have produced a gorgeous wine
of soft tannins, creaminess and ripe black currant, anise
and dark chocolate flavors. Tasty now, and will stay fresh
for up to five years. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
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Billhook 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). What a nice wine for drinking
now and over the next few years. At the age of nearly
four, it’s mellow and rich, with the blackberry fruit and
oak flavors achieving a savory marriage. Finishes dry,
spicy and tart. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Dewitt 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). For full review see page 7.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $39
Frank Family 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Very rich and ripe, with luxurious blackberry and cherry jam, chocolate and sweet oak
flavors. Feels soft and complex in the mouth, with thick
but gentle tannins. It’s a little generic, in the modern
style, but tasty. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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Ehlers Estate 2010 1886 Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon (St. Helena). Ehlers’ 1886 bottling is their best Cabernet effort of the vintage. It shows
detailed fruit, with luscious black cherries, raspberries,
cassis and chocolate wedded to toasty, new French oak.
The tannins also illustrate the estate’s style, being soft
and complex at the same time. An excellent wine, but a
little sharp on the finish. Drink 2014–2018. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $95
90
Firestone 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Santa Ynez Valley). For full review see page 7.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $22
90
Ridge 2010 Estate Monte Bello Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). One of the lowest-alcohol prestige Cabs on the
market, Ridge’s 2010 bottling is dry, softly tannic and
light in body for a Cabernet Sauvignon. Yet it’s complex
Janzen 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). A brisk, sturdy Cabernet, marked by
firm tannins, tart acidity and a marked coating of sweet,
smoky oak. It’s Janzen’s basic Napa Cabernet, and shows
the winery’s ability to produce elegant Cabs. But it’s not
an ager. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $50
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Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County).
K-J’s basic Cab has gotten pricier over the years, but
quality has kept up. This wine still offers excellent value. It’s elegant in construction, with tailored tannins and
acids and fine flavors of blackberries and currants that
lead to a spicy finish. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
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Barlow 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga). While this is a very rich, ripe Cabernet,
made solidly in the Napa style, something about it suggests drinking over the next 3–4 years. The blackberry,
cassis and chocolate flavors are delicious and complex,
and the tannins are very fine. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $50
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Barlow 2009 Barrouge Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga). Absolutely delicious now,
so ripe in blackberry and cherry jam and chocolate flavors. It’s pretty tannic, but the lush fruit and softness
suggest drinking soon. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $45
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Emblem 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). A solid Cabernet, offering lots of Napa
flash at a decent price, It’s dry, full bodied and tannic,
with rich black currant, cherry and licorice flavors for
drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $35
87
Foxen 2010 7200 Grassini Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Lots of ripe, luscious raspberry, cherry
and mocha fruit in this Cabernet. It has good acidity and
some fine tannins. One drawback is the finish, which
is rich in brown sugar and glycerine, with high alcohol.
Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $42
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Foxen 2010 7200 Vogelzang Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Happy Canyon of
Santa Barbara). This Cab shows how ripe the Happy
Canyon area can get grapes even in a cool vintage. The
wine brims with red cherry, currant and licorice flavors
that are, in a word, delicious. It’s adequate in acidity, but
is a little candied. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $54
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Hoyt Family Vineyards 2010 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles). There’s tremendous blackberry, currant and chocolate flavor in this
Cabernet, along with a solid coating of sweet oak. It’s
a delicious wine, if a bit direct and one dimensional.
Ready now. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $48
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Jigar 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Jigar makes Cabernets to drink
now, and this accomplishes that intent. The wine is firmly tannic, with jammy flavors of blackberries and cherries and the herbaceousness that Alexander Valley Cabs
so often show. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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L de Lyeth 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma County). A solid, everyday Cabernet, with extra features of dry elegance and complexity.
It’s dry and tannic, with interesting blackberry, currant,
sweet oak and tobacco flavors for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Michael Pozzan 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). An easy Cabernet, soft and fruity, great for drinking now, at a pretty
good price. It’s dry and gentle in the mouth, with some
real complexity, combining ripe cherries and blackber-
ries with suggestions of dried herbs, cocoa and tobacco.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
backbone, the wine has flavors of tobacco and chocolate
and a ripe finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $38
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Nitty Gritty 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Lots of Cabernet pleasure in
this dry, full bodied wine. Firm tannins frame flavors of
blackberries and cherries, with an herbal edge. Showing
class and elegance, it’s a good wine to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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Opolo 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles). This is a big, ripe, extracted wine,
softly tannic in the Paso Robles style. It’s a little hot in
alcohol, but delicious, with waves of blackberry jam,
black licorice and spice flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $32
Paoletti 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak
Knoll). There’s plenty of ripe berry-cherry
fruit, fine acids and big tannins on this Cab, but it just
doesn’t have the stuffing for the long haul. It is, however, a satisfying Cabernet, offering lots of elegance for
drinking now and over the next few years. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $69
(Napa Valley). Smooth, dry and tannic, but a
little thin, this is not one for the cellar. Shows some nice
blackberry, black currant and oak flavors, with marked
Napa elegance and balance. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
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(Stags Leap District). Tough and gritty in
tannins and acids, with very dry flavors of black currants
leading to a spicy finish that’s hot in alcohol. It lacks the
rich opulence of the 2008, and feels a bit resistant and
brittle throughout. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $60
87
Sebastiani 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma County). Rich and fruity in Cabernet character, with blackberry, blueberry and cherry
jam flavors subtlely tinged with oak. With soft tannins
and a dry finish, it’s a fine expression of Cabernet for
drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
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Sauvignon (Lake County). A savory, tannic
and slightly earthy Cabernet Sauvignon made by winemakers Denis and May-Britt Malbec, who consult on
many Napa Valley-based projects. The 2007 and 2009
are more indicative of how silky smooth and refined
their Cabernets can be, with this one exhibiting just
slightly too much tobacco and smoke on the finish, overpowering the berry fruit. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $80
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Brochelle Vineyards 2009 Foothill Series
Cabernet Sauvignon (Calaveras County).
This is a dusty, earthy Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso
Robles-based producer Brochelle. With a firm, tannic
Lander-Jenkins 2010 Spirit Hawk Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Good price for
a Cabernet this rich and fruity. It’s dry, tannic and fullbodied, with blackberry, black currant, dark chocolate
and oak flavors made for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Martin Lane Winery 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Sierra Foothills). With cassis and plum aromas, this mid-weight Cabernet Sauvignon from the Foothills has a taste of licorice and vanilla, particularly on the finish, testament to its 33 months
in new American oak. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $28
Miro 2010 Silverwood Vineyard Mountain
Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander
Valley). Like previous vintages of this bottling, this is
a pretty good Cabernet—rich and fruity but dry. It’s a
bit tough and stringy in texture, with unyielding tannins
that are unlikely to improve with age. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
Schug 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). Marked by zesty acidity and
powerful blackberry, cherry and currant flavors, this
Cabernet leaves little to the imagination. It’s a big wine,
dry and tannic, whose young jamminess suggests it
won’t age. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Spellbound 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). A soft, fruity Cabernet, with good
varietal character for the price. It’s forward in blackberry jam, currant, chocolate and oak flavors, wrapped into
Cab’s firm tannins. A great party wine, and relatively
easy to find, with 8,500 cases produced. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Chiarello Family Vineyards 2010 Bambino Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena).
Tastes surprisingly ripe—even overripe—with dark
chocolate, prune and caramelized oak flavors. Yet the
tannin-acid structure is pure Napa—fine and elegant.
—S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $65
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Frenchie Winery 2009 Louis XIV Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County-Napa
County). There’s nothing at all French about this Cab.
It could only come from California, with its jammy, soft
black cherry and chocolate flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Silver Palm 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(North Coast). A Cabernet Sauvignon that includes 8% Merlot, Silver Palm is dense and oaky, with
round tannins and a big taste of cherry followed by a
strong herbal and menthol component. Fairly priced,
it’s ready to be paired with rib roast. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $22
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Storyteller 2011 Got Away Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This is the kind
of Cabernet Sonoma County produces so effortlessly.
It’s full-bodied, dry and smooth, with a touch of smoky
oak. The cherry and blackberry fruit is ripe and luscious.
An easy wine to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Dixie Flyer Vineyards 2010 The Brakeman Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles).
Easy to drink for its ripe, jammy blackberry and cherry
flavors. It’s a simple wine, with brisk acidity for balance.
The price is right for what you get. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Round Hill 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). This Cab doesn’t pretend to be
anything but what it is: dry, full-bodied and characteristically Cabernet. Grab a burger or beef taco and enjoy.
Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
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CK Mondavi 2011 Wildcreek Canyon
Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This is a
reliable Cabernet, and the price makes it especially attractive. Gets the job done with full-bodied flavors of
blackberries and sweet, toasty oak. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $7
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Green Truck 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendocino County). With a twist of mushroomy earth upon opening, this inexpensive Cabernet is
strong, hearty and a bit thin on the finish—fine but not
a standout. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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JCB 2010 No. 17 Cabernet Franc (Napa
Valley). This is a wonderful wine that has the
dry complexity and tannic structure of a great Napa red,
with rich layers of cherries, red currants, mocha and
sweet smoky oak. Yet it’s supple, with a deft drinkability. A brilliant interpretation of the variety, it’s hard to
keep from popping the cork now, but should age well
for 8–10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $150
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Ziata 2009 Cabernet Franc (Oakville). For
full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
88
Peju 2009 Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley).
This is an easy, gentle wine to drink now. It’s
softly tannic and dry, with cherry, red currant and cocoa flavors. Shows enough complexity to warrant pairing
with an upscale steak. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $50
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Merlot (Sonoma County). K-J has a way
with Merlot, and with this wonderful 2010, they’ve pro-
duced a wine that tastes far more expensive than it is.
It’s silky on the palate, with wild berry, red currant and
persimmon fruits. This could even develop bottle complexity over the next 5–6 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Mt. Brave 2009 Merlot (Mount Veeder). A
brilliant Merlot, showing the intense complexity of its mountain terroir. There’s a briary wildness to
the blackberry and cassis liqueur flavors that’s molten
in concentration. Sweet, toasty oak provides additional
richness. Very fine, but needs time. Give it 5–6 years to
mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $75
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Ehlers Estate 2010 Merlot (St. Helena).
Ehlers is one of those Napa wineries that flies
below the radar, but insiders get it. This Merlot, which
comes from the St. Helena estate, is dry and tannic, yet
shows the sensual softness you want in Merlot, with
sweet tiers of cherries, red currants, mocha and spicy
persimmons. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Rocca 2009 Grigsby Vineyard Merlot
(Yountville). Cabernet and Syrah specialist
Rocca turns to Merlot from their estate vineyard, with
good results. The wine is smoothly tannic and rich, with
blackberries, red currants, mocha and sandalwood. Delicious now, it should develop bottle complexity over the
next 5–6 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $50
lot of great charm and drinkability. Production was
5,800 cases. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Ledson 2009 Reserve Merlot (Russian
River Valley). A big wine, in the Ledson style,
whose power comes at the cost of some elegance. Its
dominant note is fruit—ripe and jammy in blackberries and chocolate—as well as sweet oak. Impressive
for sheer mass, but would benefit from some restraint.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Nitty Gritty 2011 Merlot (Napa Valley).
Don’t be too quick to dismiss this wine as thin.
It’s the polar opposite of those ubiquitously jammy,
chocolaty wines. Instead, it’s moderately low in alcohol
and rather severe, with notable acidity, and the fruit is
subtle, compounded with green herbs and tobacco. The
dryness and complexity make it worth repeated interest. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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Silverado 2009 Mt. George Vineyard Merlot (Napa Valley). This bottling by the respected Silverado winery has been consistent over the
years. The 2009 vintage is unsurprisingly quite good
and drinkable, with elegance. It’s a soft wine, with a
creamy mouthfeel framing black cherry, mocha and oak
flavors. Ready now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $35
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Black Stallion 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley).
This wine is dry, rich and tannic, showing true
Napa elegance. It’s rich and savory, with black and red
cherry, red currant, licorice and mocha flavors. Provides
beautiful drinking now and over the next year or two.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
Ridge 2010 Estate Merlot (Santa Cruz
Mountains). Here’s a rich, softly delicious
wine. It has luxurious cherry, red currant and sweet licorice flavors, wrapped into firm tannins, and brightened
with Ridge’s typically bright acidity. Not a long-term
ager, but a perfect example of what young Merlot can
do in California. Drink now–2016. —S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $45
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Sutcliffe 2010 Merlot (Oak Knoll). Great
value for the price, showing Napa dryness, balance and complexity. From the coolish southern part
of Napa Valley, it offers black cherry, dark chocolate,
sweet licorice and toasty oak flavors, accented by crisp
acidity. The grapes are from a single vineyard. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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L de Lyeth 2011 Merlot (Sonoma County). Really impressive at this price for its depth
of flavor and overall balance. Dry and elegantly constructed, it shows extravagant flavors of blackberries,
cherries, sweet currants and sandalwood. A lovely Mer-
Storyteller 2011 Once Upon a Dream
Merlot (Sonoma County). This is a fine
Merlot, that’s dry, supple and highly drinkable. It has
some complex flavors of cherries, currants and smoky
oak, and the alcohol is refreshingly moderate. Ready to
drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
Barlow 2009 Unfiltered Merlot (Calistoga). Softly delicious, this is a beautiful Merlot
to drink now. It’s a little hot in alcohol on the finish, but
feels elegant in the mouth, offering waves of cherries,
currants and mocha. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $35
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Kenwood 2010 Jack London Vineyard
Merlot (Sonoma Mountain). This is a solid,
fruity Merlot, appealing with cherry jam and red currant flavors, housed in firm mountain tannins. There’s a
good cut of acidity for tackling rich beef dishes. Drink
now. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Firestone 2009 Merlot (Santa Ynez Valley). Tastes like the wine equivalent of blackberry and cherry jam. It’s extracted, ripe and fruity, with
a hit of citrusy acidity. Oak adds the usual notes of sweet
buttered toast. Lots of people will like it at this price.
—S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $20
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CK Mondavi 2011 Wildcreek Canyon
Merlot (California). This Merlot defines the
concept of party wine. It’s clean, crisp and ripe, with
cherries, cola and toast notes. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $7
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Heavyweight 2011 Merlot (California). All
this Merlot asks is to be paired with something
simple, like a hamburger. It’s straightforward and easy
drinking, with juicy blackberries and cherries showing
their ripeness. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
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Spellbound 2011 Merlot (California). Intensely ripe, this is a straightforward wine with
upfront cherry jam and oak flavors. Not much else going
on, but it’s fine for a party. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Atalon 2010 Pauline’s Cuvée (Napa Valley). This Merlot-based blend is a huge success. It’s a big, tannic, tight wine, packed to bursting
with black cherry liqueur, cola and spice flavors. Yet
it maintains an exciting balance, with the tension between acids, tannins and oak in equilibrium. Seems like
it wants 5–6 years in the cellar to let it throw some tannins and mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $30
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B Cellars 2010 Blend 24 Cabernet Sauvignon-Sangiovese-Petite
Sirah-Syrah
abv: 14.9%
Price: $51
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red blends
B Cellars 2010 Blend 25 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Napa Valley). For full review
see page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $64
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Matanzas Creek 2010 Journey (Sonoma
County). Three things mark this Cab-based
blend— intense tannins, fantasically concentrated fruit
and a lively acidity that keeps the palate refreshed. It
has a molten core of blackberries and cassis that is spectacular, yet nowhere near ready to drink. Needs serious
time. Consider drinking from 2018, although it could
be going strong for many additional years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $100
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Blackbird Vineyards 2010 Contrarian
(Napa Valley). So soft and dense in richness,
this is easy to enjoy now. But you really want to restrain
that impulse and give it some time in the cellar. Blended
from roughly equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, it’s dry and tannic, but with a
molten core of blackberries, cherries, blueberries, anise
and sweet new oak. Very fine, very elaborate and complex. Give it 5–6 years, at least. This wine could still be
unfolding in 2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
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Blackbird Vineyards 2010 Illustration
(Napa Valley). There’s something enormously satisfying about this Merlot-based blend. It hits the
Napa-Bordeaux sweet spot, with concentrated blackberry and cherry fruit, jacketed in sweet, smoky oak.
But there’s also a fascinating olive character. The tannins are rich and dense and velvety. Great to experience now, and should be one for the long haul, perhaps
through 2022. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
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Blackbird Vineyards 2010 Paramour
(Napa Valley). The soft voluptuousness of
this Cabernet Franc-based Bordeaux blend is its most
evident feature. It has plenty of staunch tannins, but
they’re as finely woven as a silk tapestry, while the flavors are dazzling, suggesting black cherries, red currants and hints of dark chocolate and anise. Kudos to
winemaker Aaron Pott for this remarkable blend from
all around the valley. Drink now–2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
Eonian 2010 Red (Napa Valley). An inaugural release from veteran Napa winemaker
Wayne Donaldson. The wine is a blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Syrah, and shows the modern signature of ripe, smooth tannins and rich blackberry, cassis, chocolate and cedar flavors. Delicious now, it should
hang in there for six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
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Flora Springs 2010 Trilogy Red Wine
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
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Ridge 2011 Geyserville (Sonoma County). This is a fine wine that shows its terroir. It’s
bone dry, moderate in alcohol, and with lovely acidity.
The flavors suggest open fields of lavender and thyme,
wild strawberries and cherries, and richer, spicier notes
of red licorice. A classic Ridge blend of Zinfandel, Carignane and other varieties, it’s one of the most complex
and enjoyable wines of its type in California. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
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Michael Pozzan 2010 Marianna Red Wine
abv: 14.9%
Price: $45
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Ridge 2011 Three Valleys ZinfandelPetite Sirah-Carignane-Mataro-Alicante
Bouschet-Grenache (Sonoma County). For full
review see page 6. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $26
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Curtis 2010 Heritage Cuvée MourvèdreGrenache-Cinsault-Syrah (Santa Barbara
County). For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Dragonette 2010 MJM (Santa Ynez Valley). High in alcohol, there’s some heat and
richness, but that’s part of the charm of this Syrah-based
Rhône blend. Blended with a splash of Viognier, it has
a citrusy brightness to the raspberry and cherry fruit.
Gets better as it warms in the glass. A sophisticated
wine to drink now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $54
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Le P’tit Paysan 2011 Le P’tit Pape
Grenache-Mourvèdre-Syrah (San Benito
County). A delightful southern Rhône-style wine for
drinking now. It’s juicy and fruity in cherries, red currants, bacon, spices and herbs, with a complex structure
of acids and tannins. Easy to drink and upscale at the
same time. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Newsome-Harlow 2010 The Deviant (Calaveras County). This is a juicy blend of blueberry-swaddled Carignane, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah
that’s also got cherry and raspberry fruit lurking around
the edges. Firm, spicy and delicious, it’s an out-of-theordinary blend that’ll surprise and please, especially
alongside Asian-inspired short ribs or anything caramelized. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $42
90
Sextant 2010 Night Watch (Paso Robles).
abv: 14.9%
Price: $50
89
Coastview 2009 Red Wine (Monterey
County). This Bordeaux-style blend is nothing like anything from Napa Valley. It’s more acidic
and tighter, with rustically old-fashioned tannins. Yet
the blackberry, cherry, plum and raisin flavors are thoroughly modern. Pleasant now, and should hold for a few
years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $48
89
Dragonette 2010 Seven (Central Coast).
This Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah blend
contains a splash of Viognier. It’s a good, interesting
wine, with complex layers of ripe red cherries and red
licorice, as well as notes of bacon, mocha and black pepper. With a rich, fruity finish, it doesn’t seem like an
ager, but is very good now, especially with spicy lamb or
beef dishes. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $40
89
La Folia Winery 2010 The Madness (Sierra Foothills). Sierra Foothills-based La Folia
specializes in Cal-Ital varieties. This super Tuscan-style
blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Sangiovese,
aged in entirely new French oak, is impressively resplendent in coconut, sour cherry and ripe plum notes,
with a softness that makes it remarkably drinkable. This
bright wine will pair magnificently with all kinds of pizza
and pasta. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
88
Jaffurs 2010 High Tide (Santa Barbara
County). An absolutely delicious Rhône-style
blend packed with ripe, juicy blackberry, red currant,
cocoa, plum sauce and black pepper flavors. Yet for all
the richness, it’s dry and brisk in acidity. A pleasure to
drink now. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $42
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Nitty Gritty 2011 Red (Napa Valley). On
first impression, this wine is austere and thin.
The acids and tannins are pronounced, and the berry
flavors are tinged with tobacco and pepper. Then the
subtlety gains on you. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
Storyteller 2011 Ever After (Sonoma
County). With moderate alcohol, brisk acidity
and sturdy tannins, this blend of undisclosed varieties
brings to mind something from the south of France. It
has herb, blackberry and currant flavors that smack of
the summer sun. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
87
Amador Cellars 2009 Bunkhouse Red
(Amador County). They grow powerful
grapes in parts of Amador County and this one stands
out for its elevated alcohol. The mix of 70% Zinfandel
and smaller helpings of Mourvèdre, Barbera, Syrah and
Touriga combine for a spicy cola taste. Leathery notes
and big tannins linger long on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $18
87
Ledson 2009 Ti Amo (Alexander Valley).
This blend aims at the modern, cult style of ultraripe Bordeaux-style fruit, soft tannins and plenty of oak. It
succeeds as far as richness goes. Flashy, but it tires the palate, making it hard to argue for repeated sipping. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $86
87
Murrieta’s Well 2010 The Spur (Livermore Valley). A rich, mid-weight red blend of
48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Petit Verdot, 23% Malbec and 5% Petite Sirah, Murrieta Well’s The Spur is
balanced, soft in tannins and makes for a tasty midweek
wine. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
87
Sextant 2010 Caverio G-S-M (Paso Robles). This is an easy, gentle wine that’s a little
soft, with superripe cherry, persimmon and red licorice
flavors. Delicious in the California way, it’s showing its
best now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $40
87
Sextant 2010 Passage (Paso Robles).
Sextant takes their Grenache, Syrah and
Mourvèdre blend and adds some Petite Sirah, which
gives the wine a little more body, as well as firmer tannins. It’s a big wine—rich, dry and complex in blackberries, currants and peppery spices. The alcohol gives
it some heat. Drink now and over the next few years
with barbecue or, for something different, beef or lamb
curry. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $42
87
Shed Horn Cellars 2010 Non Typical Red
Wine (Lake County). A robust blend of 38%
Zinfandel, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Petite Sirah,
11% Barbera and 11% Syrah, all grown in Lake County,
this rightly named Non Typical red is rich in strawberry
and raspberry flavors with dusty overtones. Structured,
but soft in the mouth, with a caramel finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
Stuessy Cellars 2010 Principium Cuvee
(Suisun Valley). This cuvée is comprised of
43% Syrah, 40% Merlot and 17% Petite Sirah. It exudes
black tar and leather, but it’s more savory than fruity.
Tannic still, showing off the Petite, its finish is long and
lingering. This is a good pasta wine. —V.B.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $26
Trinitas 2010 Mysterium (Mendocino).
Robust and rustic, this is a full-bodied Italianinspired red blend, indicative of its varieties which
range from Carignane and old-vine Zinfandel to oldvine Petite Sirah, Mataro, old-vine Black Malvasia and
Alicante Bouschet. It’s old-school in every way, with flavors that tend toward dark cherry, licorice and leather.
—V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $28
86
Ampelos 2009 Sigma Syrache SyrahGrenache (Santa Barbara County). This
southern Rhône-style wine is soft and easy, in the way
of a good Côtes du Rhône. It has ripe black cherry, red
currant and herb flavors that turn a little raisiny on the
finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
86
Foxen 2010 7200 Range 30 West MerlotCabernet Franc (Happy Canyon of Santa
Barbara). This easy wine offers a rainbow of fruits—
raspberries, cherries, blackberries and plums—that
wash over the palate rich as jam, with a veneer of caramelized oak. Tasty, if a little one dimensional, and hot
in alcohol. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $40
86
Summation (Sonoma County). Made from
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel, this blend
is stylishly dry and smoothly balanced. It offers upfront
blackberry, cherry, cassis, chocolate and licorice flavors
for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
85
Silver Buckle 2010 Ranchero (Central
Coast). This Syrah, Merlot and Malbec blend
is full bodied and tannic. It has rich, ripe blackberry and
chocolate flavors. An everyday wine for drinking with
barbecue or tacos. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
84
Generation 7 NV Road to Morocco
(Lodi). Temecula Valley-based Brookside Winery makes this nonvintage blend, a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. Moderately light in alcohol, it nonetheless imparts deep, dark
fruit and a leathery juiciness, with Zin taking over on
the finish. —V.B.
abv: 12.7%
Price: $28
84
Trinitas 2009 Meritage (Napa Valley).
With zesty acidity, ripe raspberry and cherry flavors and just a touch of overripe raisins, this Cabernetbased blend is very oaky. It’s not likely to age so drink
up. —S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $55
82
Bridlewood 2011 Blend 175 (Central
Coast). This is a simple wine with candied
raspberry, mint and toasted oak notes. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
82
Chateau Margene 2009 Beau Melange
(Paso Robles). With sharp acidity, a hot
mouthfeel and rich flavors of cassis liqueur and chocolate-covered raisins, this Cabernet Sauvignon-based
blend tastes more like Port than a dry table wine. Lots
of new French oak does not restore balance. Drink up.
—S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $150
82
Frenchie Winery 2009 Napoleon (Sonoma County-Napa County). With generic berry, cherry and chocolate flavors that are rich and
ripe, this soft, simple red blend is O.K. for everyday
drinking. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Paoletti 2010 Orchard Cuvée Cabernet
Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc (Oak Knoll).
This wine is ripe and forward in fruit, along the lines of
blackberries and black raspberries, with plenty of sweet
oak. Yet it tastes and feels candied. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $69
Sextant 2010 Portolan (Paso Robles).
This blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre
is extraordinarily rich and soft in cherry pie, chocolate,
licorice, bacon and pepper spice flavors. The tannins are
wonderfully velvety, and the finish is long and nicely dry.
Unbalanced alcohol makes the wine taste hot all the way
through. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $80
85
GrapeHeart Vineyards 2010 The Beat
(Suisun Valley). This is a Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend aged for almost two years in about
half new French oak. It’s a structured, tannic wine, true
to its Cabernet Sauvignon roots, and the herbal tendencies of Cab Franc. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $69
Hess Select 2010 Treo Winemaker’s
Blend (California). This is harsh and scoury
in the mouth, with thin blackberry and caramel flavors
and some vegetal notes. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
Jigar 2011 Raja Cuvée Syrah-Petite
Sirah (Mendocino County). A soft mix
of 67% Syrah and 33% Petite Sirah, this is slightly ill-
defined, marked most by mouth-puckering tannins.
—V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $24
81
GEN 7 2008 Road to Zanzibar (California). Overripe and syrupy, Gen7’s 2008 Road
to Zanzibar—part Zinfandel, part Cabernet Franc and
part Carignane—is big and soft, with the fruit in decline. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
other red wines
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Cambiata 2009 Rocosa Loma Vineyard
Tannat (Monterey). Cambiata makes one of
the best Tannats in California, and one that’s worth investigation. It’s big in tannins and wild berry, nettle, teriyaki beef and pepper flavors that finish dry. But it has an
acidity that makes it especially elegant, and a complexity
rarely seen in Zinfandel. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
87
Curtis 2010 Mourvèdre (Santa Barbara
County). Shows some complexity amidst layers of black cherries, currants, roasted meat and black
pepper flavors that are housed in rich tannins. With a
medium-bodied mouthfeel that veers toward silkiness,
it’s a fine window into the possibilities of this fussy grape
variety in California. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $28
86
L de Lyeth 2011 Malbec (Sonoma County). Tough and gritty in the mouth, this has
sandpapery, astringent tannins. While the fruit is ripe in
blackberries, those tannins dominate. Barbecue will cut
right through them. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
85
Sextant 2010 Tannat (Paso Robles). This
is a soft, lusciously fruity wine for drinking now.
With its silky texture, it’s full of jammy cherry and raisin
flavors that finish hot in alcohol. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $35
82
River Road 2011 Hopkins Vineyard Pinot
Meunier (Russian River Valley). This is a
tough wine, marked by hard acids and tannins, and an
absence of the fruit to stand up to it. It’s bone dry and
severe, with thin cherry-skin and cola flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $17
dessert wines
92
Envy 2009 Late Harvest Sémillon (California). This is tremendously sweet and rich
with apricot and orange liqueur, honey and vanilla bean
flavors. It slams into the sweet tooth with power, but is
balanced by crisp acidity and control. Made for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $45/375 ml
92
Williams Selyem 2011 Vista Verde Vineyard Late Harvest Gewürztraminer (San
Benito County). For full review see page 5.
abv: 8.2%
Price: $40/375 ml
87
Prager 2009 Port (Napa Valley). Incredibly
sweet, with caramelized brown sugar flavors of
blackberries and chocolate, this dessert wine tastes a bit
like an easy Port. It’s made with traditional Port varieties, with California additions of Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Turns quick and simple on the finish, so
drink now. —S.H.
abv: 19%
Price: $55
86
Kasuari 2007 Zintage Zinfandel (Napa
Valley). Very high in alcohol, nearly 18% abv,
which gives the sweet blackberry, blueberry and chocolate flavors some heat. It lacks some complexity, and
is too soft for development, but it’s luscious. Drink up.
—S.H.
abv: 17.9%
Price: $39/375 ml
86
Prager 2007 Royal Escort Paladini Vineyard Port (Napa Valley). This 100% Petite
Sirah is very, very sweet. When the palate experiences this much concentrated brown sugar and caramel,
it exults. The problem is that sweetness is pretty much
all there is. You’ll find blackberry jam and chocolate.
—S.H.
abv: 19%
Price: $72
oregon
pinot gris
91
Coeur de Terre 2012 Pinot Gris (McMinnville). Coeur de Terre consistently offers a
Pinot Gris that is fine-tuned, aromatic and elegant. The
fruit is ripe enough, but remains tart and spicy, with
bracing texture and fine focus. Crisp apple, pear and citrus is given a bit of a ginger/cinnamon snap through the
finish, with highlights of cotton candy and orange peel.
Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $17
91
David Hill 2012 Estate Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Slightly sweet, with strong
pineapple flavors, this lightly candied style brings in
streaks of apricot and orange also. It’s penetrating and
distinctive, with lush fruit flavors that set it apart from
most other Oregon Pinot Gris. —P.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $18
90
Hawks View 2011 Hawks View Vineyard
Pinot Gris (Chehalem Mountains). Done
in a racy, high acid style, this flavorful Pinot Gris offers
melon and white peach fruit, with highlights of gin-like
botanicals. It’s textural and gently ripe, but delivers a lot
of complexity. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $26
89
Raptor Ridge 2012 Pinot Gris (Willamette
Valley). Loaded with scents and flavors of
grapefruit, this leesy, textural Pinot Gris is bracing and
mouth-filling. It’s definitely on the tart side, but could
be paired with a wide variety of fish and poultry dishes.
—P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
89
Sineann 2012 Wy’East Vineyard Pinot
Gris (Columbia Gorge). An aromatically distinctive wine, with notes of peanut shells, dried apricot,
and lees. A hair off dry, it’s broad and textured, with vibrant acidity, finishing just a touch bitter. —S.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
88
Anne Amie 2012 Pinot Gris (Oregon).
This is a young, yeasty wine with a scent of fresh
citrus. Lemon and grapefruit are the main flavors, with
a textural, refreshing mouthfeel and a hint of minerality. —P.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $19
88
Vista Hills 2011 Treehouse Estate Pinot
Gris (Willamette Valley). An elegant wine
with low alcohol yet clean, crisp, persistent flavors, this
captures both melon and pear fruit, with peach blossom highlights. Call it a Euro style; it’s fresh and subtle.
—P.G.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $18
86
Silvan Ridge 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon).
This pleasant Pinot Gris has melon fruit flavors
with a hint of kiwi. Fresh, and ready for near-term enjoyment. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $15
riesling
93
David Hill 2012 Estate Riesling (Willamette Valley). A rich and varied Riesling from
vines planted in 1965, this mingles luscious, almost candied citrus fruits with tangerine, pekoe tea, spices and
hints of tropical fruit. A terrific value. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 11%
Price: $18
91
David Hill 2011 Estate Riesling (Willamette Valley). This wine’s aromas are uncannily German, in the way a distinct minerality is interposed throughout the scents of pretty tree fruits. It’s
high in acid and carries a touch of sweetness, but the
vibrant fruit flavors of apple, peaches and pears signal
that it’s New World all the way. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 11%
Price: $18
89
Sineann 2012 Riesling (Willamette Valley). A sweet, slightly sugary Oregon Riesling
that gives a gentle nod to the German Kabinett style.
The low (8%) alcohol is the tip-off. The delicate, floral
aromas and light stone-fruit flavors make this an ideal
summer sipping wine. —P.G.
abv: 8%
Price: $20
88
Coeur de Terre 2010 Riesling (McMinnville). This searingly tart take on Oregon Riesling will strike some tasters as sucking on a lemon, while
others will reach for the oyster knife and start shucking.
Despite the high acidity, it is multidimensional and carries its sharply-defined flavors through a textural, bonedry and complex finish. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
viognier
88
Season 2012 Viognier (Southern Oregon). The aromas are light for a Viognier, with
notes of flowers, herbs and peach. Still, it brings a lot
of appeal, with broad fruit flavors accented by residual
sugar (0.4%), showing a bit of heat on the finish. —S.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $23
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buyingguide
87
Quady North 2011 Steel-Ox Viognier
(Rogue Valley). Named after the blending of
Steelhead Run and Ox vineyard blocks, this appealing
wine is fresh and varietal with notes of ripe peach and
herbs. Aged six months in stainless steel and coming in
at a low 12% alcohol, the fruit concentration is lighter in
style but still offers enjoyment. —S.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $25
87
Quady North 2011 Steelhead Run Vineyard Viognier (Rogue Valley). Aged in
stainless steel, this single-vineyard Viognier is aromatic
and appealing, with notes of fresh flowers, peach and
lees. It’s off-dry, medium bodied, with a textured feel
and light fruit flavors. —S.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
other white wines
90
David Hill 2010 Estate Gewürztraminer
(Willamette Valley). This fragrant, inviting,
estate-grown Gewürztraminer is lush, with scents and
flavors of honeysuckle, Meyer lemon, melon and lychee
fruit. In the mouth it gets a bit candied, like sweet, pickled watermelon rind. —P.G.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
90
Sineann 2012 Resonance Vineyard
Gewürztraminer (Yamhill-Carlton District). This is an intensely floral style of Gewürztraminer, with expressive and pronounced aromas of flower
and soap. It lingers gracefully in the mouth, continuing along those lines with flavors to match, then finishes
with a graham cracker surprise. —P.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $20
87
Raptor Ridge 2012 Estate Grüner Veltliner (Chehalem Mountains). Grüner Veltliner, though still rare, shows good promise in Oregon.
This is a big, sappy, ripe version that’s borderline syrupy,
with big flavors of peaches and apricots. But the supporting acids, and a lick of mineral, keep it from crashing. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
86
Hawks View 2011 Chardonnay (YamhillCarlton District). This is tight to the point of
being shut down. Scents of skin phenolics suggest pear
and apple fruit, but there’s little flesh on these bones,
and the wine stubbornly refuses to open up, even after
several hours of breathing time. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $26
86
Reustle 2012 Talitha Cumi Bloc in
Prayer Rock Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc
(Umpqua Valley). Fermented and aged in stainless
steel, this single-vineyard Sauvignon Blanc is medium
bodied, with notes of lime and herbs. There’s a touch of
sugar to offset the tart acids, and the alcohol lingers on
the finish. —S.S.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $22
85
David Hill 2010 Estate Reserve Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). This is buttery to a
fault, with the overpowering aroma of microwave pop-
corn. Once in the mouth, the simple fruit flavors are
buried, and the finish leaves a lightly bitter impression.
—P.G.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $18
84
Silvan Ridge 2012 Semillon (Rogue Valley). Aged in 20% new French oak, the wood
overwhelms the fruit with notes of char and toast. While
the variety gets lost, this off-dry wine still offers enjoyment though the alcohol distracts on the finish. —S.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
83
Anne Amie 2011 Pinot Blanc (Chehalem
Mountains). This is tart to the point of being
outright sour, with flavors of lemon, green banana, and
a hint of cracker. Overall the wine just does not come
together. Two bottles tasted. —P.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $20
rosés
87
Coeur de Terre 2012 Rustique Rosé (McMinnville). Just two barrels were made, from a
mix of Syrah and Pinot Noir. It’s a pale, pretty rosé, with
flavors of watermelon and strawberry, and good concentration through the mid-palate. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $19
86
Raptor Ridge 2012 Rosé (Willamette Valley). A bold, candy cherry pink shade, this carries crisp apple flavors into a bone dry, rather tart middle. It’s young and still pulling itself together, but chill it
down and it should liven up a mid-summer deck party.
—P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
flavors run deep and true; it’s both delicious and complex. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
91
Scott Paul 2010 Les Gourmandises Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills). Only four barrels were
produced, all from the Nysa Vineyard (adjacent to Domaine Drouhin Oregon) in the Dundee Hills. Lovely
and focused, with a pleasing mix of cranberry and strawberry fruit occupying center stage, this seems to gain
concentration as it moves across and through the palate.
Hints of cherry cola and root beer emerge, with a pleasing, textural finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $40
91
Vista Hills 2010 Rollins Estate Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). All of the 2010 Pinots
from Vista Hills have dropped a point or more in their
finished alcohol, but there is no loss in character or
quality, and in some instances, such as this Rollins designate, it works in their favor. Strawberry and raspberry
fruit show ample flesh and pretty flavors of hard candy,
with accents of green tea and sandalwood marking the
finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $44
91
Vista Hills 2010 Treehouse Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). For full review see page
7.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $28
91
pinot noir
Vista Hills 2010 Tusculum Estate Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). This vintage marks
a return to form for the Tusculum bottling, which shows
excellent structure and sleek strawberry and red plum
flavors in its core. The details are driven by firm natural
acidity, and the barrel aging brings brown spices into
the lush finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $44
92
Saffron Fields Vineyard 2010 Pinot Noir
(Yamhill-Carlton District). Veteran Tony
Rynders makes this wine, a lush mash-up of aromas
running from mint to blackberry to cola. It’s a wine of
power and finesse, that leads you down a most interesting flavor trail, with licorice and black tea dominating a
long finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $48
90
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90
Scott Paul 2010 Audrey Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). The excellent Maresh vineyard is the source here (with one additional barrel from
20-year-old vines at Nysa). Simply delicious right from
the start, this delicate, captivating wine opens with
lightly floral aromas, moves into sweet cherry and raspberry fruit, then brings in sharply-defined herbal details. It’s complex and inviting, with many years of life
ahead. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $69
91
David Hill 2010 Winemakers Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Case production was cut in half in 2010, but it’s a better wine. Compelling scents of root beer open into a fruit-filled Pinot
with black cherry and cassis, coffee and licorice. The
David Hill 2010 Estate BlackJack Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). The 2010 BlackJack is loaded with tart cranberry and pomegranate fruit
flavors. There is a streak of iron and darker notes that
come through in earthy, slighted roasted tannins. The
complexity is intriguing and adds depth to a rather light
vintage. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $55
Hawks View 2010 Hawks View Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This
excellent wine has good concentration and pretty, fruitsweet flavors of berry, cherry, and a splash of Dr. Pepper. It brings in elegant details of truffle and more of
that pleasant cola character, and lingers through a generous finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $38
90
Scott Paul 2010 La Paulée Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). Production is lower for
this cuvée in 2010, and the sources now incude Nysa
and Ribbon Ridge along with Maresh. Aged in one-fifth
new French oak for just under a year, it remains tightly wound, with tart, primary raspberry fruit wrapped in
moderate acids. There are delicate herbal notes sprin-
kled throughout. Overall this is elegant, balanced and
strongest on the midpalate. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $36
more than it delivers. The light cherry fruit turns a bit
earthy and tannic as it winds into a quick finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $40
90
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Vista Hills 2010 Marylhurst Estate Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). Very pretty aromas of strawberry and raspberry introduce this fruitforward, estate-grown Pinot. It’s lightly spiced, with fine
balance and a finish redolent of sandalwood. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $36
89
Tendril 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Following in the wake of the marvelously
ripe 2009 Tendril, this does not carry the same weight
and authority. It’s well made and accurately reflects
the cooler, difficult vintage. Strawberry fruit is lightly
coated in chocolaty tannins; the wine remains firm and
compact, with medium body and balance throughout.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $48
89
Vista Hills 2010 Piedmont Estate Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). A distinctive streak
of cola runs through this wine, along with a mix of wild
strawberries and spice. It’s elegant and seamless, doing
a lovely, gentle fade into a lightly spicy finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $44
Windy Bay 2011 Pinot Noir (Oregon).
Most of what this wine has to offer comes
through its enchanting aromas of mint, cranberry, and
toasty spice. The palate—light, delicate, and tart—can’t
quite deliver on this promise. Still, a varietally correct
Oregon Pinot Noir at this price? Yes, please! —S.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $14
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Anne Amie 2011 Cuvée A Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This is a light, simple wine,
mixing tart cranberry fruit with streaks of leaf and stem.
The rather low alcohol and overall lightness makes it a
good summer quaffing red. —P.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $22
85
Anne Amie 2010 Winemaker’s Selection
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Pungent
with strong aromas of stem and herb, the fruit suggests
green banana and other minimally-ripe flavors. The
wine is a bit disjointed, with stiff tannins and a green
edge to the finish. —P.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $35
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David Hill 2010 Estate Reserve Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). Edgy and herbal,
the 2010 Reserve mixes cranberry fruit with Mediterranean herbs. There’s a suggestion of black olives also,
and the tangy tartness adds lift to the mouthfeel. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
Coeur de Terre 2010 Estate Pinot Noir
(McMinnville). Strong scents of cola and root
beer introduce this estate-grown Pinot, which adds
spice and black cherry as it rolls across the tongue. It’s
light and leaves an impression of soda pop, without the
sweetness. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $36
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Zimri Cellars 2009 Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). This is David Hill winemaker Jason
Bull’s own label, and it offers excellent Pinot Noir character at a moderate price. Round and fruity, with toasty
highlights, this is a mix of strawberries, light coffee and
cream flavors, with excellent persistence. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $25
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Raptor Ridge 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). A bit of a disappointment, given the excellence of the winery’s 2010 vineyard designates. Tart cranberry fruit carries a whiff of
saddle leather, and finishes with a fair amount of leafy
herbal notes. It’s sealed with screwcap, so decanting it
would be a good idea if you plan to drink it soon. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $38
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Silvan Ridge 2010 Freedom Hill Vineyard
Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).
With scents and flavors of chocolate-covered cherries,
this pretty and accessible Pinot Noir promises a bit
Coeur de Terre 2011 Oregon Pinot Noir
(McMinnville). Quite light and tart, this young
Pinot brings bracing cranberry fruit flavors to the front
of the palate. It feels a bit thin and one dimensional,
likely a reflection of the cool vintage. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $22
Raptor Ridge 2011 Flight Club Select Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Sharp
scents of saddle leather lead into a tannic, earthy wine
that remains stubbornly closed even after some hours.
—P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45
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Silvan Ridge 2009 Lazy River Vineyard
Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).
This modest Pinot offers light strawberry fruit, a dash
of cola, and a component of earth and stem that overtakes the finish. It hints at green tannins, with a bit of
brown sugar sweetness, perhaps from aging in 30% new
oak. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $36
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David Hill 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This wine is quite stemmy from
the first sniff to the very end. There just isn’t the fruit to
offset a hard, bitter, medicinal finish. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
syrah
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Quady North 2009 4-2,A Syrah (Rogue
Valley). Coming in at a cool 13.5% alcohol, it’s
light, fresh and appealing, with notes of mineral, berry,
olive and smoked ham. The oak is dialed way back and
the finish sails off into the distance. —S.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Season 2011 Syrah (Southern Oregon).
Blended with 25% Grenache, this is an enjoyable wine with notes of peppery spice and plum. It’s all
about mouthfeel, light fruit flavors and citrusy acidity.
—S.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Reustle 2010 Winemaker Reserve Prayer
Rock Vineyards Syrah (Umpqua Valley). An intriguing wine, with aromas of white pepper,
smoked meat, herbs and red fruit. The palate can’t deliver all that these aromas have to offer though, seeming underripe and without the structure to hold them
together. Interestingly, it’s aged in 100% new oak—half
French and half American—but the wood doesn’t show.
—S.S.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $39
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Silvan Ridge 2008 Syrah (Rogue Valley).
Blended with 10% Malbec, this has notes of
Maraschino cherry, red vines, and Band-Aid. The tannins are dry and gruff; the concentration is wanting.
—S.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $22
other red wines
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Lujon 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla
Walla Valley). A fine value, the 2009 Walla
Walla Valley Cabernet is sourced from Spofford Station and Lefore vineyards. Bright and spicy, it spent 28
months in almost-neutral French oak. Cranberry and
currant fruit is forward and precise, with the balance to
age another 6–8 years. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $20
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Sineann 2011 Abondante Red (Columbia
Valley). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and—surprise!—Zinfandel, this brings a swirl of red
fruits into play, and wraps them in a skin of bark and
slightly bitter earth. Peppery tannins and more forest
floor flavors kick in at the finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $24
87
Quady North 2011 Bomba Grenache
(Rogue Valley). It’s rare to find a varietally labeled Grenache that comes in under 13% alcohol, but
here you have it. Blended with 10% Syrah, it has notes
of white pepper, smoked meat, savory spices and red
fruit. What it lacks in terms of depth it makes up for in
purity and elegance. —S.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
87
Quady North 2009 Vinum Pro Virtus Aresenal Red Wine (Applegate Valley). Sixty
percent Cabernet Franc with the balance made up of
Merlot, this wine saw 20 months in oak and another
12 in bottle prior to release. The notes of dark flowers,
cherry, and herbs are light, with chewy, slightly dry tannins and tart acidity. —S.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $40
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Hood Crest 2010 Vintners Select Sangiovese Sangiovese (Columbia Gorge).
A sweet-smelling wine, with notes of cranberry, white
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buyingguide
pepper, and Band Aid. It has tart fruit flavors and firm
tannins. —S.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $26
on curd and herbs. It’s medium bodied, with a bitter
streak that runs from head to tail. —S.S.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $20
Like many European wines, it doesn’t come off as entirely clean, but here it only adds to its appeal. —S.S.
abv: NA
Price: $25
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riesling
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David Hill 2010 Tempranillo (Rogue Valley). Aged 24 months in French and American
oak, the aromas are light with notes of vanilla, toffee,
herbs and red fruit. The palate is simultaneously sweet
and tart, with firm tannins and citrusy acidity. —S.S.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $30
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Raptor Ridge 2011 Tempranillo (Oregon).
This young Tempranillo shows light, pretty
strawberry and tart cranberry fruit flavors. It’s sharp and
herbal, young and tight; a pleasant red that does not
show any particularly strong varietal character. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Hood Crest 2011 Super Tesscan Red
(Columbia Gorge). Half Sangiovese and onequarter each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot all coming from the cool 2011 vintage, this is lightly flavored
with notes of dried cranberry and sour cherry, backed
by firm tannins. —S.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
idaho
viognier
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Cinder 2011 Dry Viognier (Snake River
Valley). Cinder makes two versions of this wine
each year—one dry and one off-dry. This dry wine is
medium-plus bodied, with notes of lemon, white flowers and white peach accompanying an oily feel. —S.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
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Cinder 2011 Off-Dry Viognier (Snake River Valley). A moderately aromatic Viognier
with notes of peach, citrus, and flowers. At 1% residual
sugar, it’s off-dry, with neutral-oak aging contributing to
the rich, full feel. —S.S.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $18
85
Koenig Vineyards 2011 Williamson Vineyard Viognier (Snake River Valley). This
is a moderately aromatic Viognier, with notes of white
peach, yellow apple, and flowers. It’s medium bodied
and clean, with a textured feel but doesn’t quite have
the fruit concentration to match. —S.S.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $15
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Fujishin 2011 Viognier (Snake River Valley). Aged in stainless steel, this is lightly aromatic, with notes of nectarine and overripe apple. Labeled at 14.5% alcohol, it surprisingly never shows it.
Rather the fruit concentration comes off as a bit wanting. —S.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
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Indian Creek 2011 Viognier (Snake River
Valley). This lightly aromatic offering of Viognier that doesn’t appear entirely ripe, with notes of lem-
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Coiled 2011 Dry Riesling (Snake River
Valley). The first white wine from this winery,
there’s a lot of intrigue here: notes of mandarin orange,
lime, and dried herbs. It’s medium bodied and drinks
just a hair off-dry, with tart fruit flavors. —S.S.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $17
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Williamson Vineyard 2011 Dry Riesling
(Snake River Valley). This is an aromatic,
sweet smelling Riesling with notes of ripe peach and
honeysuckle. Though labeled as dry, at 1.86% residual sugar it drinks almost medium-sweet. Misdirection
aside, it provides good value. Best Buy. —S.S.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $10
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Colter’s Creek 2011 Colter’s Creek Estate Riesling (Idaho). The aromas seem a bit
muddled, with notes of jasmine and pear occasionally
poking through and the alcohol showing itself. It’s medium sweet (2.7% residual sugar) finishing a touch bitter. —S.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
other white wines
Coiled 2010 Black Mamba (Snake River
Valley). This unusual blend of 85% Syrah, 10%
Petit Verdot and 5% Petite Sirah comes together nicely,
with the Syrah lending notes of cranberry and smoked
meat and the Petit(e)s adding some heft to the plush
texture and bitterness on the finish. —S.S.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $28
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Coiled 2009 Sidewinder (Snake River
Valley). Mostly Syrah, with just a dash of Petite Sirah (2%) and Petit Verdot (1%), this red from
Sawtooth and Skyline vineyards brings light notes of
smoked meat, chocolate, and flowers. The enjoyment
here is mainly focused on mouthfeel, which is voluptuous and rich, leading to an open finish. —S.S.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $25
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Colter’s Creek 2010 Koos-Koos-Kia Colter’s Creek Vineyard Red Wine (Idaho).
Named after the Nez Perce name for the Clearwater
River, this blend is mostly Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Cabernet Franc and Syrah thrown in
the mix. The aromas are light, with notes of berry and
sweet spices. The cherry flavors are very soft, getting a
bit attenuated on the back half on this otherwise pleasant red. —S.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Colter’s Creek 2010 Colter’s Creek Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay (Idaho). Aged
in acacia and French oak barrels, this shows notes of
lemon, smoke, and slightly burnt toast. It’s creamy in
feel but doesn’t entirely come together. —S.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2012 Vivacious
Reserve Viognier-Roussane (Snake River Valley). An aromatic blend of Viognier and Roussanne, with overripe pear, lavender and spice. Aged
three months in French oak, the palate is full bodied
and unctuous, with a bitter note on the finish. —S.S.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $17
rosé
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Koenig Vineyards 2011 Dry Rosé of Petite Sirah (Snake River Valley). Produced
entirely from Petite Sirah, this wine is dark in color, with
notes of cherry, melon and strawberry. It’s a bit ponderous but still offers enjoyment. —S.S.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $14
red wines
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3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2009 Estate
Grown Syrah-Mourvèdre (Snake River
Valley). The velvety mouthfeel provides much of the
draw on this Rhône-inspired blend that offers notes of
celery salt, orange peel, smoked meat and barnyard.
Koenig Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Snake River Valley). A distinctive blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, with
notes of black currant, olive, chocolate and herbs. The
palate’s soft cherry flavors and grainy tannins don’t entirely hold together, but there is a lot of intrigue here.
—S.S.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $25
Snake River 2009 Arena Valley Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Snake River Valley). The cedar, cherry and mocha aromas and flavors
are light and there’s not a lot of structure to this silky
soft wine, but it still flies straight down the fairway and
brings much to enjoy. —S.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Snake River
Valley). This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon explores the
grape’s leafy, herbal side—occasionally leaning into the
green—with notes of green tea, carob and plump cherries added to the mix. Considering the alcohol level, it’s
surprisingly fresh, with the oak dialed back and grainy
tannins providing the frame. —S.S.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $22
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Fujishin 2009 Merlot (Snake River Valley). This 100% Merlot was—intriguingly—
aged for three months on Chardonnay lees. It has notes
of herbs, cherries and green vegetables. It has an appealing, broad texture, finishing on a bitter note. —S.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
86
Koenig Vineyards 2010 Three Vineyard
Cuvée Syrah (Snake River Valley). Blended from Williamson, Hells Canyon and Bitner vineyards, this is a light, airy Syrah, with notes of cranberries
and orange rind. There’s intrigue, but the wine comes
off as a bit muddled. —S.S.
abv: NA
Price: $20
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dessert wines
Sawtooth 2011 Estate Grown Syrah
(Snake River Valley). Light in style, this is
a pleasant, varietally correct wine with notes of violets,
game and lemon playing off a soft, rounded mouthfeel
and grainy tannins. —S.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $14
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Snake River 2009 Reserve Arena Valley
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon-MerlotMalbec-Cabernet Franc (Snake River Valley).
This is a moderately aromatic, Cabernet Sauvignondominant, Bordeaux-style blend, with notes of cedar,
char and cherry. It’s lighter in style, with tart cranberry
and cherry flavors. —S.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
Grown Syrah-Mourvèdre (Snake River
Valley). This aromatic wine has notes of raspberry jam,
seabreeze, green olive and smoked meat. The flavors
are light and lacking in structure and definition. —S.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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Koenig Vineyards 2010 Riesling Ice Wine
(Snake River Valley). All from Windrige
Vineyard, this is an aromatic, appealing dessert-style
wine with notes of dried pink grapefruit and honey. At
18.6% residual sugar, it’s rich and concentrated, with
good depth and intensity. —S.S.
abv: 11%
Price: $20/375 ml
86
Koenig Vineyards 2011 Late Harvest
Riesling (Snake River Valley). This dessertstyle wine has notes of dried pineapple, orange peel and
granulated sugar. It’s sugary sweet at 14.7% residual
sugar. —S.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
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Williamson Vineyard 2009 Sangiovese
(Snake River Valley). The aromas are light
and elusive, with the palate bringing broad, mediumbodied, fresh cranberry flavors. It’s cleanly made, if a bit
innocuous. —S.S.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $18
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Williamson Vineyard 2009 Windmill Red
Sangiovese-Cabernet Sauvignon (Snake
River Valley). This is an aromatically reticent wine
with notes of cherry, herbs, and bell pepper. The palate
has sweet fruit flavors, soft, chalky tannins and a smokefilled finish. —S.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
Fujishin 2010 Petite Sirah (Snake River
Valley). A distinctly sweet-smelling wine, with
notes of stewed black cherry, oak spices, and citrus. The
tannins are firm and the alcohol shows prominently.
—S.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
84
Koenig Vineyards 2010 Williamson Vineyard Sangiovese (Snake River Valley).
Aged 18 months in French oak, this wine is moderately
aromatic, with notes of blueberry and mushroom. It’s
syrupy in feel yet has dry tannins. —S.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $26
84
Snake River 2010 Arena Valley Vineyard
Sangiovese (Snake River Valley). Hailing
from the winery’s Arena Valley Vineyard, this wine has
notes of dried cranberry and currant. Cranberry juicelike flavors are accented by oaky spice. —S.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $18
84
Snake River 2009 Tempranillo (Snake
River Valley). Pale in color, this wine brings
notes of char, sawdust, red fruit and pencil eraser.
Plump, juicy flavors play off a soft structure and abundant oak flavors. —S.S.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $18
Sawtooth 2010 Late Harvest Riesling
(Snake River Valley). At 6% residual sugar,
this sweet, rich Riesling—all from Skyline Vineyard
Ranch—has notes of jasmine, orange peel and nectarine. —S.S.
abv: 10.07%
Price: $12
Koenig Vineyards 2009 Riesling Ice Wine
(Snake River Valley). Golden yellow, with
notes of fig, apricot and mint. At 23% residual sugar, it’s
rich and sweet, but the concentration drops off on the
back half. —S.S.
abv: 11%
Price: $20/375 ml
Fujishin 2011 Late Harvest Chardonnay
(Snake River Valley). A distinctive wine, with
notes reminiscent of freshly made apple sauce. Harvested at 28° Brix, it’s medium-plus sweet, but the flavor
concentration doesn’t quite carry all the way through.
—S.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
virginia
viognier
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Cooper Vineyards 2011 Viognier (Virginia). The medium-intense aromas of honeyed
nut, glazed pineapple and papaya are rich and exotic.
Medium to full bodied, the palate bears snappy acidity that keeps the wine feeling vibrant. A slight papayaseed-like bitterness creates some tension, which lingers
on the finish. —A.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
87
Rappahannock Cellars 2011 Viognier
(Virginia). Tropical in scent, this has precise
notes of apricot and papaya, plus a dusting of turmeric for complexity. Medium to full in body, this offering feels soft on entrance, though the acidity becomes
more energized as the wine progresses across the palate. —A.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
86
Barren Ridge 2011 Viognier (Shenandoah Valley). Notes of honeyed nut and
yellow apple fill the nose, with traces of tropical fruit
and white flower adding interest. The palate is light to
medium bodied, and it offers fresh acidity. While the
wine doesn’t exude Viognier’s exotic, voluptuous traits,
it demonstrates the grape’s restrained, elegant side.
—A.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
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White Hall Vineyards 2011 Viognier
(Monticello). Broad scents of honeydew, candied lemon and orchard fruit mark the nose, with an
underpinning of toasted nut. The palate is medium bodied, with balanced acidity and apple flavor. —A.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
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Miracle Valley 2011 Viognier (Virginia).
With its notes of button mushroom and mineral, this bottling has earthy appeal. Browned apple and
toasted baguette scents complete the bouquet. Medium bodied and broad in feel, the palate offers a note of
toasted almond that adds a touch of bitter tension. The
acidity is mild on the attack, but it gains some vigor as
the wine progresses across the palate. —A.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
vidal blanc
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Attimo 2011 Sonnet 98 Vidal Blanc (Virginia). Although the intensity of the papaya,
blonde caramel and dill flavors leaves something to be
desired, the flavors prove to be more virile. The wine
feels buttery and rich, with a precise, tenacious toastedalmond note that clings to the finish. —A.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
86
CrossKeys 2011 Joy White Vidal Blanc
(Virginia). Soft aromas of warmed apple, lime,
brioche and seltzer give way to a glossy-feeling palate
that offers an intense, slightly sweet-tasting honeyed flavor. It finishes with bold notes of pie crust and toasted
nut. —A.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
84
Gray Ghost 2011 Vidal Blanc (Virginia).
This wine’s aromas are one-dimensional, with a
note of pithy white-grapefruit zest at the fore. Light to
medium bodied, the palate is marked by tame acidity,
and it finishes with a flavor reminiscent of raspberryinfused lemonade. —A.H.
abv: NA
Price: $14
chardonnay
86
Chatham Vineyards 2011 Church Creek
Steel Chardonnay (Virginia). Notes of
honeysuckle, apple, Meyer lemon and legume dominate the nose, with a tropical fruit aroma arriving late.
Medium bodied, the palate showcases zippy acidity that
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buyingguide
will pair well with chicken scallopini served with white
beans and rosemary. —A.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
85
Sunset Hills 2011 Reserve Chardonnay
(Virginia). A power trio of beeswax, toasted baguette and apple aromas are at the fore, with a buttonmushroom accent adding interest. The palate tastes of
wax and spiced toast. Although the wine’s acidity starts
slightly flat, it picks up some steam on the midpalate.
—A.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
84
Bluestone 2010 Chardonnay (Shenandoah Valley). Medium-intense scents of dusty
wax and vanilla buttercream compose the nose. Flat acids make the medium-bodied palate feel wide open, but
the finish picks up a spark of acidity, which keeps the
wine from feeling lethargic. —A.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $19
other white wines
88
Gray Ghost 2011 Gewürztraminer (Virginia). This Gewürztraminer offers intense,
precise aromas of apricots, exotic flowers, pears and
lemon curd. It’s medium bodied and tastes off-dry, featuring vibrant acids that energize the lingering finish.
Editors’ Choice. —A.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $19
86
Fox Meadow 2011 Riesling (Virginia). On
the nose, aromas of wax, white orchard fruit and
lemon are offset by a note of wet stone. This is a medium-bodied wine that has an open-feeling, pliant midpalate. The finish bears zesty acidity, and it comes with a
sweet-tasting flavor of lemon Italian ice. —A.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
rosés
82
Annefield Vineyards 2011 Rosé (Virginia). Medium-intense aromas of lingonberry,
cherry and legume mark the nose. As the wine progresses across the palate, the acidity subjugates the fruit, and
the palate turns tart. —A.H.
abv: 12.1%
Price: $17
82
Veramar NV Rosé (Virginia). This is a onedimensional wine, and it offers confected raspberry and club soda notes that rule the nose and palate.
It’s light bodied and sweet tasting. —A.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $18
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Miracle Valley NV Cobbler Mountain
Red Rosé (Virginia). Cherry Chap Stick and
strawberry jam notes dominate the nose on this rosé of
Merlot and Chardonnay. The palate is soft and sweet
tasting, and the finish is lightly textured. —A.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $27
cabernet franc
88
Rappahannock Cellars 2010 Cabernet
Franc (Virginia). Expressive and seductive,
this wine features aromas of ripe red cherry, currant
and mocha, with an underlying accent of mushroom
cap. The medium- to full-bodied palate becomes muscular and astringent as the wine finishes, and it ends on
a lingering note of plum skin. Age this bottling for 2–3
years to allow the tannins to integrate. Editors’ Choice.
—A.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $27
87
Jefferson Vineyards 2011 Johannisberg
Riesling (Monticello). A note of graham
cracker hits the nose first, followed by touches of apple, lemon and granite. The palate is mineral driven, yet
despite the bright acidity, the flavors taste a little dull.
—A.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
Rappahannock Cellars 2010 Reserve
Cabernet Franc (Virginia). Raw pastry
dough, blackberry jam and vanilla aromatics are offset
by cigar box and leather notes. Compared to Rappahannock’s nonreserve 2010 Cabernet Franc, this wine feels
warmer due to its alcohol, which is more than 1% higher
than the nonreserve bottling. The palate is chewy and
muscular, with flavors of dried rose petal and espresso
that surface late. —A.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $36
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Rosemont 2011 Traminette (Virginia). On
first sniff, the scent of sulfur shrouds this wine,
but it fades with air to reveal tinges of grapefruit, white
pepper, honeysuckle and a legume-like quality. The flavors seem restrained from the start, but they gain intensity with time. Zesty acidity gives the palate cut. —A.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
Doukénie 2011 Riesling (Virginia). This
has intriguing aromas of marzipan and white
cherry, plus touches of apple and mineral. A mediumbodied wine, it offers acidity that becomes mouth-
puckering on the finish. Pair this with some goat cheese
to help tame the tartness. —A.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $21
Sunset Hills 2010 Reserve Cabernet
Franc (Virginia). A Cabernet Franc with great
depth on the nose, this features notes of cola, spiced
dark cherry, cigar box and undergrowth. The palate
feels broad and jammy, layered with notes of cassis and
coffee grounds. Firm tannins keep the palate grounded,
but they become more drying on the finish. —A.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
Barren Ridge 2010 Cabernet Franc
(Shenandoah Valley). This has a tame nose
of red cherry and strawberry notes that are offset by
a mild touch of smoked meat. Light to medium bodied, the palate feels soft and elegant. It’s an easy-drinking wine that would pair well with herb-crusted veal.
—A.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
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Sunset Hills 2010 Cabernet Franc (Virginia). A sweet scent of maple syrup hits the
nose first, followed by aromas of turmeric, mocha, herb
and cassis. Medium bodied, this wine has a lithe core
that is surrounded by fine-grained chalky tannins. Flavors of turmeric, coffee grounds and leather add interest to the palate. —A.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $26
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Miracle Valley 2010 Cabernet Franc (Virginia). This wine smells like an ice cream sundae, with scents of mint-chocolate chip and cookie
dough, plus touches of strawberry and cherry sauce.
Light to medium bodied, it has a malleable midpalate,
but the tannins gain astringency on the finish. As the
wine sits in the glass, the fruit seems to fall away, and the
palate becomes more brittle feeling. —A.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $26
petit verdot
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Flying Fox 2009 Petit Verdot (Monticello).
The oak influence is prominent at this stage,
and it offers a dominant note of chocolate-mint. Tones
of tobacco and dried cherry add depth to the nose. The
medium- to full-bodied palate feels slack on the attack,
but as the wine progresses across the palate it gains
chewy firmness. It finishes with raspberry-like acidity
and some warmth. —A.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
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Ingleside 2007 Reseve Petit Verdot (Virginia). The nose on this Petit Verdot is highpitched, marked by some volatility. It offers notes of
spiced cherry, herb and baguette, plus touches of raisin and fig. Concentrated and pliant, the palate bears
dusty tannins, bright acids and alcoholic warmth. The
medium-long finish features flavors of baking spice and
turmeric. —A.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $33
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Jefferson Vineyards 2008 Reserve Petit Verdot (Monticello). This has distinctive
aromas of narcissus, cassis and cedar, plus a leather-like
underpinning. The medium-bodied palate has balanced
acids and open-knit tannins, which become more astringent on the cola-flavored finish. —A.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
85
Ingleside 2008 Petit Verdot (Virginia).
Mild scents of cassis, coffee grounds and worn
saddle leather mark the nose of this Petit Verdot. The
palate is medium bodied and pliant, and though the alcohol only clocks in at12.5%, it feels warm. Faint tannins add a dust-like traction to the flavors of dried strawberry and spiced mocha. —A.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
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Jefferson Vineyards NV Petit Verdot
(Monticello). High-pitched, medium-intense
notes of toasted wheat, black cherry, maduro and sweaty
leather define the nose and palate. This is a mediumbodied wine, and it offers powdery tannins and juicy
acids that support the flavors. Cherry and cocoa notes
linger on the finish. —A.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
the palate. A flavor of tart raspberry marks the finish.
—A.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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Château Morrisette 2008 Petit Verdot
(Virginia). This wine has a restrained nose,
featuring wooly aromas of leather, wild berry and cherry. The light- to medium-bodied palate has supple, finegrained tannins, with light flavors of savory spice and
grilled herb. A note of macerated strawberry lingers on
the finish. —A.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
red blends
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Sunset Hills 2010 Mosaic (Virginia). Anise, dark cherry, coffee grounds and fig aromas
compose the nose on this Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Medium to full bodied, this wine bears meaty tannins and alcoholic warmth. Dense notes of cigar box,
ash and leather surface on the palate. —A.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
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Afton Mountain 2010 Festa di Bacco (Virginia). A note of caramelized oak hits the nose
first, followed by touches of char, herb and mocha. This
medium-bodied blend of 50% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot has a soft, sweet-tasting
core, though the tannins become more assertive as the
wine progresses across the palate. Espresso bean and
cherry-skin tones mark the hurried finish. —A.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
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Doukénie 2010 Zeus (Virginia). Intense
and perfumed, this has high-pitched aromas of
rose oil, smoked meat and blackberry. Light, open-knit
tannins and juicy acids make for a palate that is accessible and succulent. The acidity becomes more pickled
in taste as the wine sits in the glass. —A.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $26
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Ingleside NV Virginia Gold (Virginia). This
is a soft, ductile blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Touriga Nacional. It bears dusty tannins that add subtle texture,
and a turmeric flavor adds an exotic edge to the palate. —A.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
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Miracle Valley 2010 Red (Virginia). A
blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this has aromas of yeasty bread dough, dark cherry
and strawberry preserves. It is a medium-bodied wine,
with soft acidity and malleable tannins. On the short finish, the tannins gain force and become chewy. —A.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
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Autumn Hill 2009 Merlot-Petite Verdot
(Monticello). Aromas of blood, nori and worn
leather compose the nose, with a touch of charred bread
that adds a subtle bitterness. Light to medium bodied,
the palate feels pliant at the start, but the acids spike
and tower over the tannins as the wine spreads across
General’s Ridge NV GRV Red Wine (Virginia). The nose smells washed out, with hazy
notes of char and cassis that come with a touch of sulfur.
Light to medium bodied, the palate feels slick, soft and
sweet tasting, with a candied cherry note that appears
on the finish. —A.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
dessert wine
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Philip Carter 2010 1762 (Virginia). Made
from the Chambourcin grape and aged in Bourbon barrels from the A. Smith Bowman Distillery, this
fortified red wine has bold notes of baguette, blackberry
and brown spice, plus a mushroom inflection. Medium
to full bodied, an oxidative tone of apple juice surfaces
on the palate and predominates with time. The alcohol
becomes fiery on the second half of the palate. —A.H.
abv: 17%
Price: $38
new york
sauvignon blanc
pers of smoke and flint on the nose of this intensely minerally Sauvignon Blanc blow off to reveal a bright, elegantly balanced wine with hints of fresh green grass
and stems. It’s brisk and refreshing, with an easy drinking feel. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $28
sparkling wines
91
Lieb 2009 Blanc de Blancs Pinot Blanc
Brut (North Fork of Long Island). Gorgeous on the nose, with hints of lemon peel and sugar
cookie, this remarkably dry, elegant sparkling wine is a
stunning find from Long Island. Penetrating and complex on the palate and possessing distinct minerality, it
boasts a rich, creamy mousse balanced by a shower of
acidity. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
90
Sparkling Pointe NV Brut (North Fork of
Long Island). Richly aromatic with notes of
warm brioche, lemon rind and apple, Sparkling Pointe’s
nonvintage Brut is strikingly brisk on the palate with a
bold, mouthfilling mousse and a shower of lemony acidity. Elegantly structured, it has a long, warm, biscuity
finish. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $29
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Osprey’s Dominion 2012 Fumé Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). There’s a hint of smoke that adds a dark edge to
the pretty white floral notes of this easy drinking, elegantly balanced Sauvignon Blanc. It’s dry and refreshing
on the palate, while hints of waxy minerality and bitter
lime pith lend complexity to the finish. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
Palmer 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (North
Fork of Long Island). A hint of spritz introduces this brisk, fresh Sauvignon Blanc, adding verve
to concentrated notes of waxy white florals, peach and
grapefruit. Mineral tones and a whiff of green lend
complexity to the finish. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
Waters Crest 2012 Sauvignon Blanc
(North Fork of Long Island). This bright,
intensely citrusy Sauvignon Blanc boasts concentrated
lemon rind and white blossom notes highlighted by a
shower of minerality. It’s a dry, refreshingly brisk wine
with hints of wax and honey that add richness to the
palate. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20
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Macari 2012 Katherine’s Field Sauvignon
Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). Intense
minerality shines through concentrated lemon and
green apple flavors in this fresh, vivacious Sauvignon
Blanc. It’s refreshingly brisk on the palate, with bright
acidity and just a tickle of spritz on the tongue. —A.I.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $23
85
Comtesse Thérèse 2011 Sauvignon
Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). Whis-
Sparkling Pointe 2003 Brut Séduction
(North Fork of Long Island). Layers of
toasted nuts and an earthy, saline character reveal the
complexities of bottle maturation in this beautiful Long
Island sparkler. Quite bold in its petillance and nervy
with acidity, it’s balanced by rich texture and a long,
minerally finish. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $60
Sparkling Pointe 2007 Blanc de Blancs
(North Fork of Long Island). Warm notes
of toasted brioche and smoked nuts accent high-toned
lemon and apple tones in this brisk, boldly petillant
blanc de blancs. The palate is bright with lemony acidity, and sweet biscuit notes by linger on the finish. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $42
Waters Crest NV Sparkling Wine (North
Fork of Long Island). High-toned lemon aromas are accented by citrus rind and mushroom notes in
this bright, crisp Chardonnay sparkler. It’s initially quite
bold on the attack, but settles to a delicate mousse that
lingers on the palate with concentrated lemon flavor.
—A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
rosés
90
Anthony Nappa 2012 Anomaly Pinot Noir
(New York). Quick to sell out, Anthony Nappa’s Anomaly is the newest cult classic amongst Long
Island wines. Dry and intensely minerally on the palate,
it’s effortlessly easy drinking, yet surprisingly complex,
with concentrated red plum and cherry flavors accented
by hints of white florals and a slightly waxy tone. —A.I.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $20
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buyingguide
87
Palmer 2012 Merlot Rosé (North Fork of
Long Island). Hints of savory herbs accent
pretty peach and blossom aromas in this dry but fruity
Merlot rosé. It’s elegantly structured, with moderate alcohol and crisp acidity balanced out by a lush, rounded
mouthfeel. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
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Comtesse Thérèse 2011 Blanc de Noir
Rosé (North Fork of Long Island). Made
from a blend of Merlot, Malbec and Syrah, this Blanc
de Noir is peachy and ripe with fruit. Just a shade off
dry, it’s a straightforward, easy-drinking rosé that’s perfect for summer drinking. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
86
Sannino 2012 Bianca Rosé Merlot (North
Fork of Long Island). Bursting with ripe,
juicy peaches, this intensely fruit-forward white Merlot
is surprisingly dry and dainty on the palate. It’s straightforward and approachable in style, with just a hint of
stony minerality on the finish. —A.I.
abv: 11.9%
Price: $20
cabernet franc
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Bedell 2011 Cabernet Franc (North Fork
of Long Island). At just 11.2% abv, Bedell’s
delicate 2011 Cabernet Franc is a remarkable reflection of what good winemaking can do in a difficult vintage. Austere in profile, with tart red-cherry flavors, it’s
accented by violet florals and an array of mineral tones
that add complexity. Soft tannins make for easy drinking. —A.I.
abv: 11.2%
Price: $40
89
Bedell 2010 Cabernet Franc (North Fork
of Long Island). While it shares the same
floral overtones, the 2010 Bedell Cabernet Franc is a
marked contrast to the demure 2011 vintage. This one
is a bold, concentrated powerhouse of red cherry flavor,
with a rich, lavish texture and a dark granite minerality
that’s penetrating to the finish. Equally good, but fascinating side-by-side. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
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Jamesport 2001 Cabernet Franc (North
Fork of Long Island). This rare library release from Jamesport is another great testament to how
age worthy Long Island wine can be. At 12 years of age,
it’s remarkably fresh, with crisp, red cherry and plum
flavors, layered with shades of clay, savory herbs and
brine. Lively with acidity, it’s powerful on the palate but
elegant in style. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Jamesport 2007 Cabernet Franc (North
Fork of Long Island). Intensely concentrated red cherry aromas are accented with a delicate leafiness in this rich, robust Cab Franc. It’s a powerful, juicy,
boldly textured wine with a bit of heat on the finish,
but stays fresh on the palate thanks to a vibrant spray
of acidity. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
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Peconic Bay Winery 2010 Cabernet
Franc (North Fork of Long Island). Ripe
and luscious, this decadent Cabernet Franc is chock full
of ripe red cherry and plum fruit, accented with purple
violets and fresh herb tones. It’s bold in alcohol and soft
in style, but delicately framed by brisk acidity and a ruffle of feathery tannins. —A.I.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $36
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Roanoke Vineyards 2010 Gabby’s Cabernet Franc (North Fork of Long Island).
Fragrant on the nose, with delicate violet notes accenting black cherry and savory herbs, this is a ripe, densely structured Cabernet Franc that’s easy to enjoy now.
The palate is intensely juicy, with tart red-cherry flavor
and soft, feathery tannins that extend through the finish. —A.I.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $43
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Sherwood House Vineyards 2010 Estate Grown Cabernet Franc (North Fork
of Long Island). Fragrant on the nose, with hints of
black cherry and graham cracker, this is a ripe, rich, velvety Cabernet Franc with cassis flavor marked with just
a hint of green stem. Velvety tannins and bright, brisk
acidity extend long on the finish. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
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Millbrook 2010 Proprietor’s Special Reserve Cabernet Franc (Hudson River Region). Fleshy red plum and cassis notes are ripe and
luscious in this Hudson Valley Cab Franc. Full bodied
and lush on the palate, it’s framed with soft, delicate tannins and a spray of pretty violet tones. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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Pellegrini 2007 Estate Grown Cabernet Franc (North Fork of Long Island).
Intensely herbaceous on the nose and palate, there’s
a pleasant savoriness to the concentrated red cherry
and raspberry flavors in this ripe, full-bodied Cabernet
Franc. There’s a touch of heat on the finish, but overall,
it’s a well-balanced wine that should please a wide audience. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
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T’Jara 2010 Cabernet Franc (North Fork
of Long Island). Intensely ripe, almost pulpy
black fruit lends a soft, easy feel to this richly textured
Cabernet Franc. It’s a tad clunky on the palate, but
bright acidity and savory herbaceousness add elegance
to the finish. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
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Raphael 2010 Cabernet Franc (North
Fork of Long Island). Elegant black-cherry
and cassis flavors are accented with savory tones of ripe
stem and leaf in this slightly understated Cab Franc.
Overall, the palate is lean in profile, but it’s a brisk,
straightforward wine offering plenty of varietal character. —A.I.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $17
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Castello di Borghese 2010 Cabernet
Franc (North Fork of Long Island). Ripe
stem and leaf notes lend a distinctly green tone to bright
black-cherry and cassis flavors in this Cabernet Franc.
It’s a slightly austere wine, but brisk acidity and delicate
structure make it an excellent food companion. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
merlot
90
Anthony Nappa 2010 Blackbird Merlot
(North Fork of Long Island). Ripe blackcherry notes are accented by herbs and stems that lend a
dark savoriness to this bold, penetrating Merlot. Rich with
fruit, and layered with spice and granite, it lingers long on
the finish in a murmur of velvety tannins. —A.I.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $40
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Comtesse Thérèse 2008 Aquebogue Estate Merlot (North Fork of Long Island).
Comtesse Thérèse’s Aquebogue Estate Merlot is refined in structure, with crisp black-cherry flavor layered
with fresh mint and a hint of savory black spices. Brisk
and balanced, it finishes with a flurry of gripping but
fine-grained tannins. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
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Coffee Pot Cellars 2008 Merlot (North
Fork of Long Island). Whiffs of leather and
black pepper add complexity to concentrated blackfruit flavors in this bold yet surprisingly finessed Merlot.
Tannins are a shade grippy and unripe, but add structure and power. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
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Comtesse Thérèse 2006 Château Reserve Merlot (North Fork of Long Island).
Aged entirely in new French oak, this is an unabashedly
juicy, decadently spiced Merlot that’s rich with vanilla
and black-cherry pie flavors. Structurally, it’s quite refined, with fresh acidity and soft, feathery tannins that
linger. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
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One Woman 2008 Estate Reserve Merlot
(North Fork of Long Island). A bit exuberant in the nose, with luscious notes of cherry pie and
sweet spice, this Merlot is surprisingly lean on the palate, with crisp red-fruit flavors balanced by fresh acidity
and soft, delicate tannins. It’s a juicy, easy-drinking wine
that’s nicely balanced. —A.I.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $48
86
Pellegrini 2007 Estate Grown Merlot
(North Fork of Long Island). This mediumbodied Merlot boasts an abundance of ripe, juicy blackcherry and plum flavors, but with a shade of savory
green herbs that persist on the palate. Bright acidity
and soft tannins make it brisk and easy to drink. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
85
Waters Crest 2008 Merlot (North Fork of
Long Island). There’s a thick cloak of tar and
darkly toasted oak that dissipates with aeration to reveal
ripe, roasted black-fruit flavors in this medium-bodied
Merlot. Dense with fruit and hints of dark spice, the
palate gets a hit of freshness from vibrant acidity. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
petit verdot
90
Jamesport 2007 Reserve Petit Verdot
(North Fork of Long Island). Powerfully structured, with bold, black-cherry preserve flavors speckled with vanilla, sweet spice and mint, this
is a concentrated but impeccably refined Petit Verdot.
Hints of wet earth and leather add complexity to the
palate, along with sprightly acidity and tannins that linger. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
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ate is juicy with fruit, but accented with a spray of green
herbs and brisk acidity that lend freshness. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
88
Jamesport 2007 Mélange de Trois (North
Fork of Long Island). Subtle hints of toast,
vanilla and spice add warmth to succulent black-cherry
and blackberry flavors in this crowd-pleasing Bordeauxstyle blend. It’s boldly structured and textured on the
palate, but balanced by brisk acidity and a veil of soft,
finely-grained tannins. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
Pellegrini 2010 Estate Grown Unfiltered
Petit Verdot (North Fork of Long Island).
Hints of graphite and slate lend a distinct minerality to
ripe, penetrating black-cherry and cassis notes on this
elegant Long Island Petit Verdot. Full bodied in style,
it’s remarkably structured, with a core of juicy fruit
framed within a shell of fine-grained tannins. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
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Sannino 2010 Spotlight Petit Verdot
(North Fork of Long Island). Granite and
spice notes add depth to intensely fruity blackberry and
plum flavors in this North Fork Petit Verdot. It’s bold
in structure and big in alcohol, but fresh herbs and tart
berry notes add freshness to the finish. —A.I.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
red blends
90
Bedell 2010 Taste Red (North Fork of
Long Island). Intensely juicy and forward in
bright cherry fruit, Bedell’s Taste Red is a crowd pleaser,
but also remarkably finessed. Full bodied in style, it’s
balanced with a flurry of fresh herbs, acidity and hints of
crushed granite that lend depth and complexity. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
89
Osprey’s Dominion 2007 Flight Meritage (North Fork of Long Island). There’s
a musky leather note that adds intrigue to crisp blackplum notes in this mineral-intense Meritage. Moderately full in body, the palate is concentrated, with pristine fruit balanced by a kick of acidity and ripe tannins.
—A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
89
Wölffer 2010 25th Anniversary Claletto
Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon (The Hamptons, Long Island). Heady on the nose with aromas
of dried plums and vanilla spice, Claletto is a wine unlike any made on Long Island. Made in the passito style
using partially dried Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon,
it’s intensely full bodied and bold in alcohol, with a rich,
slightly rustic mouthfeel. —A.I.
abv: 15.9%
Price: $85
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Jamesport 2007 Jubilant Reserve (North
Fork of Long Island). Hints of spice and
leather add a savory tone to red cherry and plum flavors
in this bold but elegantly structured red wine. The pal-
Martha Clara 2007 6025 (North Fork of
Long Island). This kitchen-sink blend of red
grape varieties is a shade high toned on the nose, with
ripe, rich, black fruit aromas. The palate is deeply concentrated, with luscious black-cherry flavor sprinkled
with dark spice and a layer of powdery, soft tannins. Finishes quite long. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
Waters Crest 2008 Campania Rosso
(North Fork of Long Island). A touch of
leather adds intrigue to bright cherry and fresh herb
aromas in this Long Island Bordeaux-style blend, but
hints of unripe stems lend a slightly green tone to the
palate. Medium bodied in style with a refreshing spray
of acidity. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
dessert wine
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Casa Larga 2009 Fiori Delle Stelle Ice
Wine Riesling (Finger Lakes). A bouquet
of white flowers kissed with honey and stonefruit, this
ebullient ice wine bounds from the glass with its sunny,
sweet pleasures. It’s delicately textured, but penetrating with pristine tropical fruit flavors that linger. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $55/375 ml
other america
white wines
91
Ross Andrew 2011 Meadow White Wine
(Washington-Oregon). For full review see
page 6. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.7%
Price: $18
89
J. Scott Cellars 2011 Roussanne (Washington-Oregon). Using grapes from both
sides of the Columbia, winemaker Jonathan Oberlander has crafted a flavorful and beautifully balanced wine
that mingles quince, lime, citrus rind and a hint of herb.
All stainless and no malolactic fermentation—just pure
fruit and clean acids. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $18
veal intimations of honeysuckle, lime and white apricot.
On the palate, the acidity is severe and distracting, with
a razor-sharp quality that seems to slice away the fruit
flavors. —A.H.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $15
red wines
88
Sutcliffe 2009 Canyon of the Ancients
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Colorado). Although the aromas of cassis, spiced blackberry, maduro and dried herb are restrained on first sniff,
with some air and coaxing they become more assertive.
The medium-bodied palate has a pliant core, and the
tightly coiled tannins come alive on the finish. Editors’
Choice. —A.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $30
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Clearwater Canyon 2009 Merlot (America). There is a roasted, slightly burnt scent to
this wine, leading into smoky flavors of ground coffee
and tar, wrapped around light red fruit. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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David Hill NV Farmhouse Red (America).
A half dozen unrelated red grapes are tossed
into the mix here, making a serviceable blend with no
distinctive flavor or focus. It’s a stewpot red, fine for
everyday enjoyment. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $11
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Clearwater Canyon 2010 Renaissance
Red (Washington-Idaho). Merlot leads the
pack in this blend of six Bordeaux varieties with a dash
of Syrah (5%). The fruit is taken from five different
vineyards across Washington and Idaho. It has notes of
candied cherry, licorice and ash, with tart flavors and
dry, astringent tannins. —S.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $23
dessert wines
87
Haak 2004 Madeira Jacquez (Texas).
Made from the Jacquez grape, this fortified
wine has a layered nose, featuring notes of dried blueberry, baking spice, baguette and toasted almond. Medium to full bodied, the palate deals added flavors of
raspberry coulis and chocolate that show great tenacity.
The palate demonstrates some finesse, but the alcohol
spikes on the finish, ending warm. —A.H.
abv: 20%
Price: $65
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Haak 2005 Madeira Jacquez (Texas). This
has intense, precise aromas of brown sugar,
toasted almonds, dark caramel and vanilla. On the palate, a blackberry flavor reigns, but the alcohol sears the
midpalate, which gives the palate a fiery feel. —A.H.
abv: 20%
Price: $40
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Heritage NV Cuvée Blanc ChardonnayPinot Gris-Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc
(Outer Coastal Plain). A scent of sulfur marks this
New Jersey wine from the get-go, but it subsides to re-
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buyingguide
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chardonnay
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This is one of Argentina’s best Sauvignon Blancs. Tempranillo, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $29
Terrazas de Los Andes 2012 Reserva
Chardonnay (Mendoza). Resiny, lightly
briny aromas unfold to show a strong oak-and-vanilla
profile, along with lemon. The palate on this fully oaked
Chardonnay is chunky in size and resiny in feel. Flavors
of spiced pear and apple are woody, while the finish is
round and echoes of forced oak. Moët Hennessy USA.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Finca El Origen 2012 Reserva Chardonnay (Mendoza). For a basic Chardonnay, this
fits the bill. Citrus and peach aromas are standard and
clean. The palate is tight and juicy, with no overt oak
feel. Flavors of melon and pear have light spice and vanilla accents, while the finish is crisp. Carolina Wine
Brands USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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François Lurton 2012 Piedra Negra Reserve Chardonnay (Mendoza). Sulfur and
match stick are the early aromas on this standard Chardonnay. After that blows off, apple and peach scents are
pitted against overt oak. The palate feels good, while flavors of pineapple, mango, apple and cinnamon are oaky
and not elevated. Worthwhile Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
84
Casarena 2012 505 Chardonnay (Mendoza). This standard Chardonnay opens with
blowsy melon and papaya aromas. The palate holds onto
that melony feel while dealing honeydew, papaya and
fleshy apple flavors. The finish tastes sweet and kind of
flat. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
84
Valentin Bianchi 2012 Elsa Bianchi Chardonnay (Mendoza). Light aromas of tropical
fruits and white flowers are basic and open. An average feeling palate carries sweet flavors of tropical fruits
like pineapple and mango accented by vanilla. Throw in
a sprinkle of powdered sugar and you get the picture.
Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
83
O. Fournier 2012 Urban Uco Chardonnay
(Uco Valley). This lightly oxidized Chard is
powdery but not entirely fresh, as it shows aromas of
pool water and mealy melon. The palate is chunky and
just O.K. in feel, while fleshy flavors of melon and peach
end briny and mildly bitter. Tempranillo, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
O. Fournier 2012 B Crux Sauvignon Blanc
(Uco Valley). For Argentina, this is as varietally correct as you’re going to find for Sauvignon Blanc.
The bouquet is loaded with pungent nectarine, citrus
and peach pit aromas. Those are backed by a citrusy, angular, spritzy palate with lime and orange flavors. Tang is
the operative word as the wine fades out with tangerine
and grapefruit flavors. Tempranillo, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
O. Fournier 2012 Urban Uco Sauvignon
Blanc (Uco Valley). Sassy passion-fruit and
feline aromas set up a crisp, clean-feeling palate with
tangy, green, zesty flavors of scallion, lime and sour apple. A minerally, chalky finish is zingy and clean. This
is nice for value-priced Sauvignon Blanc. Tempranillo,
Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $9
Familia Cassone 2012 Finca la Florencia
Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza). Pungent, feline aromas of sweat, nettle and grapefruit precede a
lemony, dilute palate with lime, scallion and green-herb
flavors of tarragon and thyme. It’s tangy and light on the
finish, with a chalky feel. Bedford International. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
84
Finca Los Maza 2012 Coleccion Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza). Lemon and apple
aromas come with modest minerality. This is fairly full
bodied, with a mix of briny citrus and salty, slightly oily
tasting melon flavors. A chunky, round finish manages
to hold its pose...for now. Total Wine & More. —M.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $12
82
Casarena 2012 Estate Bottled Sauvignon
Blanc (Mendoza). This is yet another plump,
sweaty smelling Sauvignon Blanc from this producer.
This vintage is fat in the mouth but kept alive by adequate young acidity. Salty, briny flavors of citrus, particularly grapefruit, end in similar briny fashion. Southern
Starz, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $15
torrontés
89
sauvignon blanc
Colomé 2012 Torrontés (Calchaquí Valley). Colomé regularly makes one of Argentina’s best Torrontés. This vintage is fresh on the nose,
with tropical leanings and lychee aromas. The palate offers pointed acidity and lively flavors of passion fruit,
lychee and citrus. This finishes crisp and juicy, but not
sizzling or sharp. Hess Family Wine Estates. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
89
85
O. Fournier 2010 Alfa Crux Sauvignon
Blanc (Uco Valley). With feline aromas of
juniper bush, grass and sweaty citrus, this is true Sauvignon Blanc. Oak aging has lent an easiness to the
mouthfeel, which shows good acidity. Flavors of green
fruits, melon and pithy bitterness end in chalky clarity.
Coiron 2012 Torrontés (Mendoza). Oily
orange and vanilla cookie aromas lead to a juicy,
tangy palate with citrusy flavors suggestive of white
grapefruit, lime and gooseberry. This finishes lean,
tangy, scouring and lasting. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
84
Casa de Campo 2012 Torrontés (Mendoza). The bouquet on this is so neutral there’s
almost nothing to describe. This is zesty and tangy in
the mouth, with pithy orange, lemon and green apple
flavors. A crisp finish with citrus zest leaves a clean final impression. Indigo Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
83
Bodega El Transito 2012 Pietro Marini
Torrontés (Salta). The nose on this clunky
Torrontés suggests apricot juice and talcum powder.
The palate is flat in feel, with bitter, pithy citrus flavors
of grapefruit and nectarine. Beyond that there’s little to
it. Table 31 Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
viognier
87
Mil Piedras 2012 Viognier (Uco Valley).
Mild citrus, bath oil and tropical fruit aromas
set up a citrusy palate with good but pithy flavors of orange, grapefruit and lime. Unlike French Viognier, this
is distinctly citric, almost like Sauvignon Blanc. Cannon
Wines Limited. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
86
Lagarde 2012 Viognier (Mendoza). This
yellow-tinted Viognier shows ripe aromas of
peach and melon. In the mouth, it’s more sharp and
zesty, albeit a touch oily. Flavors of briny citrus and
green fruits end in a citrusy, tangy, racy finish that’s acidic and lemony. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
84
Finca El Origen 2012 Reserva Viognier
(Uco Valley). This warm-weather Viognier is
fleshy and chunky on the bouquet, with generic whitefruit aromas that suggest gardenias. A plump palate is
low on acid and heavy in weight; flavors of melon and
green herbs finish soft and could turn flabby in a short
time. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
other white wines
89
François Lurton 2011 Gran Lurton Corte
Friulano (Mendoza). This yellow-tinted
blend of Friulano, Chardonnay, Viognier and Pinot Gris
is classy and smoky on the nose, with no shortage of
toasty oak. Core apple, melon and citrus flavors are rich
and smooth, while this finishes round and full in body.
Corte Friulano is really good for an oddball Argentine
white blend. Worthwhile Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
86
Argento 2012 Cool Climate Selection Pinot Grigio (Mendoza). This is a clean, steady,
tropical style of Pinot Grigio that offers basic apple and
peach aromas. The palate feels citrusy but mild, with
fresh but simple flavors of orange and vanilla. Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
86
François Lurton 2012 Piedra Negra Alta
Colección Pinot Gris (Uco Valley). Minerally melon and citrus aromas are good and lead to a nice,
creamy feeling palate with a full mix of lime, melon,
apple, green herb and spice flavors. This is round and
lightly citric on the finish. Drink immediately. Worthwhile Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
85
Bodega Carmine Granata 2012 Estate
Bottled Sémillon (Mendoza). After nothing
but busts in the past, this Sémillon is in good shape but
won’t stay fresh for long. Aromas of hay and stalky fruits
are a bit strained. In the mouth, it’s got good feel and
flavors of nectarine and grapefruit. Bitter almond skin
flavors control the finish on this textured, warm wine.
Tarasi Wineries. —M.S.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $15
malbec
95
Viña Cobos 2010 Cobos Marchiori Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). Price aside, this
is absolutely wonderful Malbec. The nose is pure and
toasty, with minerally dark-berry aromas, cola and pastry notes. The palate is so rich and smooth it’s like liquid
heaven, while flavors of polished blackberry, espresso
and mocha pudding finish mellow as can be, like a silk
robe coated in Swiss chocolate. Drink through 2016;
170 cases made. Paul Hobbs Wines. Editors’ Choice.
—M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $225
94
Alta Vista 2010 Temis Single Vineyard
Malbec (Mendoza). The Alta Vista singlevineyard wines are among the best in Argentina. This
offers a soft, deep, alluring nose with plum, berry, minerality and a hint of rubber and/or bacon. It’s rich, pure
and a bit jammy in feel, with saturated blueberry, blackberry, molasses and caramel flavors. A cuddly, long finish confirms this Malbec’s outstanding status. Drink
through 2018. Kobrand. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $50
94
Viña Cobos 2010 Bramare Marchiori
Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). With a bouquet packed with pure blackberry, boysenberry, chocolate, baking spice and minerally aromas, this immediately registers as excellent Malbec. The palate, like
almost all Cobos heavyweight Malbecs, is smooth and
layered. Flavors of meaty blackberry, exotic spices and
chocolate yield to a polished, elegant finish that’s earthy
and delicious. Drink now through 2017; 275 cases produced. Paul Hobbs Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $90
93
Alta Vista 2010 Alizarine Single Vineyard
Malbec (Mendoza). This superb Malbec has
jammy black-fruit aromas as well as notes of cola nut,
leather and herbs. In the mouth, it’s layered, firm and
mildly tannic, with excellent structure and dynamite flavors of licorice, chocolate, baked blackberry, herbs and
spice. Never is this syrupy nor does it go too far in any
one direction. Drink now through 2017. Kobrand. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $50
packed, but a bit soft and hot on the finish. Drink now
through 2018. Kobrand. —M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $50
93
Melipal 2009 Nazarenas Vineyard Malbec
(Mendoza). For the price, this is great Argentine Malbec. The bouquet is complete and thoroughly
alluring, with blackberry, leather, menthol and complex
oak-based aromas. A full, well-built palate leads to flavors of chocolate, pastry, berry jam, beef jerky and salt.
The finish is smooth and classy. Drink this just-right
wine now through 2019. The Artisan Collection. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
91
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90
Viña Cobos 2010 Bramare Rebon Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). This bruiser of a
Malbec shows an opaque purple color in front of an
inky, jammy bouquet that’s rich and minerally. The palate on this single-vineyard winner is dense, with grip
and huge flavors of blackberry, licorice and fresh raisin.
On the finish, this gets a little warm and more dark, with
a baked character. Drink through 2016; 80 cases made.
Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $75
92
Finca Los Maza 2009 FLM Gran Reserva
540 Malbec (Uco Valley). This is one big,
warm, flush Malbec. The nose deals blackberry, chocolate, cookie and baking-spice aromas in front of a plush,
round palate that’s a touch tannic and chewy, but not too
much so. Flavors of berry filled pastry, toast and chocolate cake end with tannic grip and richness. Drink now
through 2017. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
Monteviejo 2009 Calypso Malbec (Uco
Valley). This Malbec is consistent with the type
of wines Monteviejo makes. It’s ripe and leathery on the
bouquet, with aromas of molasses, licorice, cheese and
jammy blackberry. The palate is full bodied and chewy
feeling, with blackberry, baked plum, hard spice and
chocolate flavors. A warm, roasted finish suggests chocolate cake and cured meats. Drink now through 2016.
Bob Bofman Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
Alpamanta 2008 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). This Malbec is different than most; it
starts with rustic, leathery aromas of baked berry and
animal hide. The mouthfeel is round, with ripe flavors
of leathery, earthy berry fruits. A well-formed finish
keeps the flow going in the right direction. 250 cases
made. William Harrison Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
90
Andeluna 2007 Pasionado Malbec (Tupungato). Rich but controlled aromas of black
raspberry, plum and cassis open this full-bodied, ripe
Malbec in quality fashion. In the mouth, it’s more forward and rugged than polished and elgant, while flavors
of earthy baked plum, raspberry and chocolate lead to
a long, minty finish with herbal hints and lots of spice.
Drink this fine Malbec now through 2017. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $60
92
90
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90
Solo Contigo 2010 Colección Malbec
(Mendoza). Like Solo Contigo’s Reserva, this
is rich and dense up front, with aromas of earth, cola,
licorice and fine herbs. For what can best be described
as a monster wine, the palate deals zesty kick in support of blackberry, rosemary, dark spice and chocolate
flavors. A tight finish with firm tannins and depth is the
final act. Drink through 2018; contains 10% Cab Franc
and 5% Syrah; 75 cases made. Antares. —M.S.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $56
Solo Contigo 2010 Reserva Malbec
(Mendoza). For high-end Malbec from Mendoza, this has a slightly exotic tilt. Blueberry, licorice,
lemon peel and pastis-like aromas lead to a forward,
full-bodied palate that’s round as a beach ball but not
at all out of shape. Focused flavors of blueberry, boysenberry and toast finish with weight and complexity.
Drink this lovely Malbec through 2017; contains 5%
Syrah; 140 cases made. Antares. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
91
Alta Vista 2010 Serenade Single Vineyard
Malbec (Mendoza). This single-vineyard
Malbec is superripe and borderline syrupy on the nose,
with liqueur, leather and other generous aromas. The
palate is huge and grabby, with full extraction and immense flavors of blackberry, fig and cassis. This is flavor
Belasco de Baquedano 2010 Swinto Malbec (Mendoza). A pitch-black color is a good
indication of the power and concentration this old-vine
Malbec has in store. Aromas of blackberry, fir forest
and ink set up an over-the-top-rich palate, with heavy
extraction and giant flavors of minty blackberry and
chocolate. Pull out the knife and fork to cut through the
deep, chocolaty finish. Drink now through 2017. Cabernet Corporation. —M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $40
Marchiori & Barraud 2009 Cuartel 2 Malbec (Perdriel). Sweet, jammy aromas of blueberry and cassis suggest ripeness to the max. For confirmation, the palate is rich, plump, soft and a bit heavy,
with prune, baked berry and cassis flavors that end in
a chewy, warm, fully ripe finish. Drink this beefy, ripe
Malbec now through 2015. The Artisan Collection.
—M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $40
89
Belasco de Baquedano 2009 AR Guentota Old Vine Malbec (Mendoza). A dark,
piercing opening with olive, black fruit and mild herbal
aromas announces a ripe, full-force Malbec. That impression is confirmed on the full, creamy, jammy palate, where oaky, chocolaty flavors of syrupy blackberry
and cooked brown sugar end in a smooth, vanilla-laden
finish. Drink now through 2015. Cabernet Corporation.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
WineMag.com | 41
buyingguide
89
Bodega NQN 2009 Malma Universo Malbec (Patagonia). This opens with dense,
earthy aromas of tobacco, coffee grinds and marzipan
candy along with blackberry and raisin. The palate feels
wide and jammy, with solid tannins that don’t bite. A
mix of herbal berry, foresty notes and leather comprise
the flavor profile, while the finish is gritty, tannic, salty
and hard. Give this muscular Malbec plenty of air before drinking. Vias Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
89
Finca La Anita 2009 Gran Malbec (Mendoza). This is yet another very good but not
quite excellent Malbec from this winery. Solid berry
aromas are edged by whiffs of green and horsehide. The
palate is fresh, tight and a touch gritty in feel, with leathery red-berry flavors accented by earth and spice notes.
This is solid and should be drunk now through 2015.
San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
heat. The finish is solid but limited in scope. Drink now
through 2016. Vineyard Brands. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
rubber, salty berry and spice are sharp, and the finish is
tannic. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
87
Denario 2011 Río Negro Malbec (Patagonia). Big plum and berry aromas announce that
this has fuel in the tank. It’s well balanced in a normal
way, with baked plum, red berry and toasty flavors. This
is packed with a lot of raw flavor and power. From Rio
Negro in Patagonia. Cannon Wines Limited. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
85
Ruca Malen 2010 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Cherry, dark berry and plum aromas are
perfectly solid. This feels big and rubbery on the palate,
with firm tannins and grip. The flavor profile consists of
dark fruit, coffee and mint. A hard finish is the conclusion. Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $18
87
84
Deumayen 2008 Trez Reserva Malbec
(Mendoza). This smells gritty, much like burnt
leather. After that, stalky, herbal aromas rise up. In the
mouth, it’s grabby and tannic but not overly hard, with
earthy, roasted flavors of leathery berry and salt. A savory tasting finish with modest fruit is lengthy and feels
solid. Cellar Door Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
Bottled Malbec (Mendoza). Chewing gum
dust, red plum and cherry aromas define the bouquet
on this racy, slightly abrasive feeling Malbec. Things
taste short and snappy, with red fruit flavors backed by
peppery dryness. Tarasi Wineries. —M.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $15
83
Las Moras 2010 Black Label Malbec (San
Juan). This is dark in color and leafy smelling,
with aromas of forest floor and herbal black fruits. The
mouthfeel delivers a hard belt of acidity and not much
else, while flavors of oaky spice and tart berry fruits
are adequate but unspecial. Universal Wine Network.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
89
87
88
86
82
88
86
82
O. Fournier 2008 Malbec (Uco Valley).
The nose on this Malbec is blue-green, meaning it deals both blueberry and boysenberry but also alfalfa and minty green aromas. The palate feels big and
generous, with nice acidity and flavors of pastry, jammy
blackberry, molasses and spice. Amid the layered finish, you’ll find baked black-fruit flavors and light green
notes. Tempranillo, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $80
Denario 2009 Reserva Malbec (Patagonia). Baked berry, coffee, molasses and horse
hide are the aromas on this tight, rugged Malbec that
shows a clipped, choppy mouthfeel in front of lightly
herbal berry flavors. This is grabby and firm on the finish, without much cushion. Pour this with grilled meats
and it will show best. Cannon Wines Limited. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
Domaine Jean Bousquet 2011 Made with
Organic Grapes Malbec (Tupungato).
With floral violet aromas, leather and meaty notes, this
smells bold and ready. A firm, slightly reduced-feeling
palate offers blue and black flavors of blueberry, prune
and bitter chocolate. The finish is a bit hot and narrow,
but shows power and intensity. Domaine Jean Bousquet. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
88
Finca la Buena 2007 Grand Reserve Malbec (Calchaquí Valley). Aromas run toward
earthy and wet clay, while the flavors on this Malbec-led
blend suggest baked berry and cassis syrup. A finish of
chocolate and molasses is ripe and chewy, but also appealing. For fans of huge reds, this is a very good wine
to drink right away. Gaucho Imports, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $29
88
TintoNegro 2010 Finca la Escuela Estate
Grown Altamira Malbec (Mendoza). This
extremely dark-colored Malbec offers mellow blue
berry and blackberry aromas. The palate is big, jammy
feeling and features only pokes of acidic cut. Inky blackfruit flavors come with licorice, peppercorn notes and
Tilia 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Four years
running this wine has scored 87 and been a Best
Buy. The bouquet is scratchy but nicely aromatic, including hints of spice to go with ripe berry scents. The
palate is jammy and home to rooty berry, mild spice and
very light oak flavors. The finish is a bit hot and fiery,
which food will tame. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
Bodega Carmine Granata 2003 Nicolás Granata Edición Especial Numerada
Malbec (Mendoza). At 10 years old, this is what it is.
It’s superripe stuff, with raisiny aromas as well as cassis
notes, licorice and alfalfa. The palate is choppy and gritty feeling, with baked flavors of raisin and cassis. On the
finish, it turns more tannic and hard. Drink this mature
wine now. Tarasi Wineries. —M.S.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $35
TintoNegro 2010 1955 Vineyard Estate
Grown La Consulta Malbec (Mendoza).
The nose on this heavily oaked, extremely ripe Malbec
is minty and stuffed with raisiny notes along with woodbased chocolate and vanilla scents. The palate rests on a
beam of acidity, but overall this is very thick and dense,
with prune, molasses, mint and an abundance of oak influence. On the finish, the barrel element is omnipresent. Vineyard Brands. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $100
85
Alamos 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Blackfruit aromas are ripe and a little earthy. This is a
thick yet jumpy wine with some aggression to the palate.
Flavors of sweet, ripe berry fruits are basic and finish
hot and toasty, with a coffee note. E & J Gallo. —M.S.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $13
85
Quara 2010 Viña Cabra Corral Single
Vineyard Malbec (Cafayate). Minty green
aromas blend with leathery red-fruit scents on what
amounts to a gritty bouquet. The mouthfeel on this single-vineyard Malbec is rubbery, rugged and tannic, with
a beam of tangy acidity keeping it moving. Flavors of
Felix Lavaque 2009 Felix Malbec (Cafayate). This is a leathery, stalky type of Malbec
with fierce acidity and a pinched mouthfeel. Try as you
might to find richness and heft, this is going to come
across acidic and narrow, with herbal flavors and a finish that tastes like tomato and sour plum. For Argentine
Malbec at this price point, this needs help. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
Hacienda del Plata 2010 Zagal Malbec
(Mendoza). Mulchy, leafy aromas lead to
a pinchy palate with salty, hard berry flavors that lack
cushion. This is a rough wine with saltiness and bitterness on the finish. ARGCA Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
81
Las Moras 2010 Reserve Malbec (San
Juan). This is a hot, earthy Malbec with cover-up oak on the nose. A high-acid palate is drying and
hard, with narrow, salty berry flavors and a peppery tasting, scratchy finish. Universal Wine Network. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
bonarda
90
Zuccardi 2011 Emma Bonarda (Mendoza). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14%
Price: $33
89
Zuccardi 2011 Serie A Bonarda (Mendoza). This is very nice varietal Bonarda. The
nose is generic but floral, ripe and full of lifted blackberry and cassis aromas. A rubbery, agile palate carries
dark, toasty flavors of blackberry, cassis and chocolate,
then a peppery-tasting, toasty finish that manages to not
be hot or fierce, which is a plus for this grape. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
82
Nieto Senetiner 2010 Reserva Limited
Edition Bonarda (Mendoza). This is so
heavy it’s nearly a solid and not a liquid. Maximum ripeness is on display at all check points, especially the palate, which is syrupy, raisiny and viscous on the finish.
This is as rich and ripe as it gets, like spineless Port.
Tasted twice with inconsistencies; this review more
greatly reflects the better bottle. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $34
tempranillo
86
Altocedro 2012 Año Cero Tempranillo (La
Consulta). This Tempranillo is a heavy, saturated number with rubbery plum and berry aromas. It’s
totally Argentinean in style and shares little to nothing
with Spanish versions; it’s full bodied but not showing
much in the midpalate, while generic berry flavors offer
chocolate notes and finish short. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
81
O. Fournier 2012 Urban Uco Tempranillo
(Uco Valley). This is bright in color and loud
on the nose, where it’s distinctly medicinal and minty,
with a strong green component. The palate doesn’t differ; it’s gritty and heavy in feel, with forced, jammy flavors of mint, grass and bitter black fruits. Tempranillo,
Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $11
cabernets & blends
95
Riglos 2010 Gran Corte Las Divas Vineyard (Tupungato). For full review see page 3.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
93
Finca El Origen 2009 PHI Single Vineyard
(Uco Valley). For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $70
93
Viña Cobos 2010 Volturno Marchiori
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec
(Mendoza). This tribute blend of 77% Cabernet and
23% Malbec is piercing and potent on the nose, with
oaky berry, cassis, leather and herbal aromas that never
go over the top. A concentrated, slightly syrupy feeling
palate houses oaky, rich flavors of maple, chocolate, molasses and berry fruits, while the full finish offers more
than its share of toast, espresso and caramel-like sweetness. Drink through 2018. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $240
92
Benvenuto de la Serna 2008 Trisagio
(Uco Valley). With pure blackberry aromas
and earthy subtleties, this is showing a lot for the price.
The palate on this blend of Malbec, Petit Verdot and
Tannat is grabby but under control, while flavors of coffee, licorice, mint and black fruits conclude on a spicy,
complex, mildly oaky finish with modest clamp and tannic bite. Drink this winner now through 2018. Cannon
Wines Limited. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
92
Bodegas Caro 2010 Caro (Mendoza). For
full review see page 5.
abv: 15%
Price: $63
92
Finca Decero 2010 Amano Remolinos
Vineyard (Mendoza). With interesting aromas of pine, herbs, juniper and tree bark matched
against blueberry and prune, this blend of 65% Malbec,
30% Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot is ripped
on the palate, with fine flavors of wild berry, spice and
herbs. A lively finish ultimately softens with flavors of
chocolate and baked berry. Drink through 2018. Vintus
LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
92
Viña Cobos 2010 Bramare Marchiori
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Like most Cobos wines, this pours on the richness
along with deep aromas and flavors. Scents of cola, black
cherry, baking spices and toast lead to a quasi syrupy
palate with knife-and-fork thickness. Flavors of cream,
toast and mint set up a second layer of baked black fruit.
Finally, this heavyweight finishes with density, creamy
richness and burnt toast notes. Drink now through
2017; 65 cases made. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $75
91
Cheval des Andes 2008 Red (Mendoza).
Given that 2008 was a frost-marred vintage, this
is quite good. Campfire, roasted fruit notes and berry
aromas are inviting but a little stalky and clipped. In the
mouth, this is wiry and jumpy, while flavors of baked
blackberry and molasses settle nicely on a long, tight,
driving finish. Drink now through 2019. Moët Hennessy
USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $90
91
Finca Sophenia 2009 Synthesis The
Blend (Tupungato). With black-toast oak,
lemony notes, balsamic plum aromas and woodsy
scents, this blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot gets off to a rocking start. In the mouth, this
is rugged and structured, with integrated tannins and
rich flavors of toast, mocha, coffee, chocolate and raspberry. The finish is peppery and oaky, but classy. Drink
through 2016. The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $29
90
Bodega Noemía de Patagonia 2010 2
(Río Negro Valley). There’s plenty of good
(not great) things going on in this blend of 85% Cabernet and 15% Merlot, although value isn’t one of them.
This is racy and high in acidity, with ample wood shown
via cedary aromas. In the mouth, it’s tight and rambunctious, with racy acids and herbal, oaky flavors of red berries, spice and herbs. This is a staunch, wiry wine that
should age well. Drink from 2014–2020. Vias Imports.
Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $158
90
Monteviejo 2009 Lindaflor Petite Fleur
(Uco Valley). This meaty, dark blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah opens with spongy,
jammy aromas of black fruits and molasses. The palate
is round and soft, with plump, earthy flavors of prune,
raisin, blackberry and herbs. A mossy feeling finish confirms the wine’s weight and jammy factor. Bob Bofman
Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Riglos 2010 Las Divas Vineyard Gran
Cabernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). For full
review see page 8.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
89
Monteviejo 2007 Malbec-Syrah (Uco Valley). This blend of 80% Malbec with 20% Syrah is dense and rich but a touch flat on the nose, with
blueberry and cumin accents. The palate feels heavy
and tannic, while flavors of blackberry, prune and herbs
are nice. A drawing, hard finish harks back to the tannic palate, and given that this is already six years old
you might as well drink it now. Bob Bofman Selections.
—M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
88
Domaine Jean Bousquet 2011 Made with
Organic Grapes Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato). After a gaseous, sulfuric opening, this Cab unfolds nicely. Berry aromas come with
leather and a touch of dried cheese, while the palate
feels very good, with creamy oak and fine tannins. Flavors of blackberry, cassis, oak and peppery woodspice
end in minty fashion. Contains 15% Malbec. Domaine
Jean Bousquet. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
88
Pascual Toso 2010 Reserve Barrancas
Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). This is a varietally correct Cabernet with minty
oak, mild herb aromas and toasty, solid berry fruit scents
on the bouquet. Although it’s a bit scouring and tough
on the palate, flavors of raspberry, plum and herbs are
spicy and right. On the finish, oaky vanilla and lemony
notes settle in. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
88
Tierra Brisa 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). For full review see page 10. Best
Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
88
Zolo 2011 Sustainably Farmed Estate
Grown and Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). For full review see page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $11
87
Felix Lavaque 2007 Felix Blend MalbecTannat (Cafayate). This Malbec-Tannat
blend from northern Argentina is hard and raisiny on
the nose, with ripeness but not much elegance. The palate is rough and tannic, with stewy flavors and raisiny
notes. A finish with baked fruit flavors, herbal leanings
and leather is classic Cafayate. Pampa Beverages LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $80
WineMag.com | 43
buyingguide
87
Proemio 2009 Gran Reserve Winemaker’s Selection (Mendoza). Mild berry and
cherry aromas are standard and slightly oaky. The palate
on this blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Syrah is choppy and tannic, while earthy flavors of cherry
and plum are pushed by firm acids. This finishes tannic,
with coffee and herbal flavors. Vitis Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $30
85
Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza).
Spicy red-plum aromas are dry and gritty, but fresh.
This firm feeling Cab holds its own on the palate, which
is tannic and a bit sandpapery. Tight, juicy flavors of
spicy plum finish long, dry and mildly salty tasting. Tarasi Wineries. —M.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $15
83
87
85
83
87
85
81
Quara 2010 Viña San José Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Cafayate).
Plum and berry aromas come with a hint of minty, herbal green, which is typical for Cafayate Cabernet. In the
mouth, things run choppy, with gritty acidity and sharpness. Flavorwise, this is offering a limited spectrum of
berry fruit, oak, herbal notes and spice. A fiery finish is
the close. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
Siesta Wines 2011 Tahuan Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). This is dark, oaky and
minty on the nose, with inky aromas and scents of freshcut wood. A saturated, tight-feeling palate has oak as the
pack leader, while mint and berry aromas float about. A
jammy, woody, creamy finish is bullish but slightly hot.
Vineyard Brands. —M.S.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $16
86
Bodega Norton 2011 Colección Varietales Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza).
For a basic value-priced wine, this shows plenty of oak
via marshmallow, coconut and sawdust aromas. The
mouthfeel is full, chewy and a touch resiny, with black
cherry, plum, blackberry and savory qualities. A simple,
slightly herbal finish is the last act. T.G.I.C. Importers.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
86
Quara 2011 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Cafayate). This fruity but fresh Cabernet is a touch rustic on the nose, with leathery, earthy
aromas in addition to blackberry. A creamy, round palate is likeable, while flavors of oak-driven raspberry finish with modesty and milk chocolate flavors. Pampa
Beverages LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
86
Ruca Malen 2011 Yauquen Cabernet
Sauvignon (Mendoza). Standard plum and
berry aromas form a harmonious opening. The palate
on this Cab is a bit acidic, with a clipped overall mouthfeel and lightly baked, earthy flavors of generic black
fruits. The finish is leathery tasting and chewy. Opici
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $12
86
Trapezio 2009 Malbec-Merlot-Cabernet
Sauvignon (Mendoza). The nose on this
blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet is leafy and a
touch dilute, with basic cherry and berry notes. An angular palate feels zesty due to lively acidity, while flavors of herbal cherry and plum are somewhat tart and
clipped. The finish tastes oaky and feels drying. Mistica
Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
Cruz Alta 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). This gets going with rubbery aromas of burnt leaves and earth but not much
fruit. The palate is medium bodied, with resiny oak
notes and jammy berry flavors. Heat and herbal notes
rise up on the tail. For $12, this is a good Cabernet.
Clock Tower Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
Finca Agostino 2009 Malbec-Syrah (Mendoza). Exotic aromas of dusty blueberry, latex
and campfire set up a jammy, somewhat clumsy feeling
palate with big, candied flavors of baked berry blended with sweet oak and licorice. The finish tastes minty,
chocolaty and oaky, with heat. Fleischer International
Trading, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
85
Lamadrid 2011 Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Agrelo). The nose on this
choppy Cabernet deals red-fruit, tomato and pepperoni-like aromas. The palate is full of life and tight acidity, while the flavor profile is gritty and includes baked
plum and saltiness. A BBQ’d, oaky finish carries plenty
of the wine’s racy acidity, leaving mild tartness. Vino Del
Sol. —M.S.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $15
84
Altocedro 2012 Año Cero Cabernet Sauvignon (La Consulta). This is a big, jammy,
over-the-top Cab with mulchy aromas of coffee grinds
and ripe berry fruits. The palate has a sticky, cloying feel
to it along with flavors of herbal berry, mocha, cocoa
and brown sugar. On the finish, it’s creamy feeling and
overtly rich. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
84
Casarena 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). There’s a fine line between
ripe and overripe, and this awkwardly toes that line with
syrupy aromas and a sticky mouthfeel. Along the path
are flavors of maple, fudge and stewed blackberry. A
jammy, soupy, candied finish is apropos for a heavy, superripe wine such as this. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $25
84
Ricardo Santos 2010 Una Selección de
Ricardo Santos Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). Dry, leafy, herbal aromas open this wine.
The palate is full and ripe in feel, with amplified extraction and herbal, leafy flavors of spiced plum and mild
acidity. Things wane on the finish, which is heavy in feel
but mostly just ripe and rich. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $16
Fabre Montmayou 2010 Phebus Reserva
Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Chunky
berry and cured meat aromas turn sweaty and herbal
with airing. In the mouth, this is wholly basic. Flavors of
soupy, herbal berry fruits lack definition, while the finish deals molasses and peppery bitterness. Saranty Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
Rio Perdido 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). Toasty oak that smells like sawdust is dominant and covers up any fruit that might
want to escape. A clunky, raw-feeling palate is home to
herbal, oaky flavors and not much fruit. Burn and bitterness come up on the finish. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
San Huberto 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Argentina). This rusty, light-bodied Cab may
be from the current vintage but it looks, smells and
tastes like something left over from the past. The bouquet is raw, leathery and leafy, with few pleasantries. A
dilute palate with dry, leathery cherry flavors is fresh
and light, but strained. Jomada Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
80
Quara 2012 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Cafayate). This is herbal, burnt and
stalky smelling, then raw and herbal tasting, with weedy
notes and a scratchy finish. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
portugal
white wines
vinho verde
90
Aveleda 2012 Quinta da Aveleda Estate
Bottled (Vinho Verde). For full review see
page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $9
90
Quinta do Ameal 2011 Loureiro (Vinho
Verde). This is fruity, floral Vinho Verde, that’s
very crisp and citrusy. It has bright acidity, a light, dancing character, and green fruits, grapefruit and a mineral texture that should come together deliciously for the
summer. OZ Wine Company. —R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
90
Quintas de Melgaco 2012 QM Alvarinho
(Vinho Verde). For full review see page 8.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
88
Quintas de Melgaco 2012 Torre de Menagem (Vinho Verde). Named after a local
landmark, this is rich for a Vinho Verde, a soft blend of
Alvarinho and Trajadura that brings out white fruits as
well as a more citrus character. It’s very aromatic, fruity
and worth keeping a few months. Value Vines LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
87
Solar de Pinheiro 2012 Paço de São Lourenço (Vinho Verde). With its light prickle on
the tongue, this is as fresh as possible. It’s clean, packed
with green and citrus fruits, and boosted with some textured richness. Drink at once. Laurel Importers. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $12
douro
lisboa
89
91
Aveleda 2012 Vinho Branco (Douro). For
full review see page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 12%
Price: $9
88
Aveleda 2012 Vinho Verde. Citrus dominates this crisp, young and fruity wine. It is light,
just off dry with an attractive fragrance and prickle on
the tongue. Ready for drinking. Aveleda Imports. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $9
Duorum 2012 Tons de Duorum Branco
(Douro). From high-elevation vineyards above
the Douro Valley, this cool, crisp wine is lightly textured,
bright and perfumed. Finely balanced between richness
and acidity, it’s a great wine for white sauce and spicy
dishes. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
86
88
86
Quintas de Melgaco 2012 Terra Antiga
White Wine (Vinho Verde). For full review
see page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 11%
Price: $9
85
Aveleda 2012 Casal Garcia Branco (Vinho Verde). One of the most popular Vinho
Verdes, this is in a light, medium-sweet style. Very fresh
and crisp, with some attractive citrus acidity, and ready
to drink now. Screwcap. Aveleda Imports. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $8
85
Caves Aliança 2012 Aliança (Vinho
Verde). This is fairly typical, light, fruity lemon-driven Vinho Verde. It has a light spritz, and is exuberantly fresh with just a touch of ripeness and crisp,
cool acidity. Perfect to drink this summer. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $8
84
Aveleda 2012 Grinalda (Vinho Verde).
Off dry, crisp, and with a strong citrus element
that gives a lemon-candy character to the wine. It’s a
light, bright wine that’s great for drinking this summer.
Screwcap. Kosher. Aveleda Imports. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $9
84
Calamares 2012 Vinho Verde. This is a
juicy, ripe style of Vinho Verde that’s soft, clean
and refreshing. It’s a summer-evening wine, light and
bright. Screwcap. Vision Wine & Spirits. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 9%
Price: $8
minho
92
Quinta do Ameal 2011 Escolha Loureiro
(Minho). Made from the Loureiro grape in the
Lima valley of northern Portugal, this wood-aged wine
is far from the Vinho Verde from neighboring producers. It’s full, spicy, rich, and smooth. Yes, there is fine
citrus acidity, but that’s at the service of a beautiful,
complex texture. Age for another year. Ibanez Pleven
Offerings. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $26
Quinta do Portal 2012 Colheita Branco
(Douro). This wine is full of pure, fresh and
crisp fruits that are delicious, fragrant, perfumed and
lively. With a mineral edge, tangy texture and tight final
acidity, it’s a wine that could age for a few years M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
87
Quinta do Portal 2012 Verdelho and Sauvignon Blanc (Douro). Verdelho and Sauvignon Blanc hangs together easily on this herb-dominant wine. The texture has a creamy character, showing
green fruits, lively acidity and a bright orange-zest aftertaste. M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $15
beiras
92
Sogrape 2011 Quinta dos Carvalhais Encruzado (Dão). Encruzado, the white grape
of the Dão region, brings out ripe tropical fruits, a
smooth Chardonnay-like character and great richness.
The wine is full of peach and apricot flavors, laced with
pear and supported by some wood aging. It’s worth aging this wine another 2–3 years. Evaton, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
91
Aveleda 2011 Reserva da Família (Bairrada). For full review see page 6.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
88
Caves Aliança 2012 Quinta da Garrida Reserva Branco (Dão). This is a tight,
mineral-driven wine that’s very textured. Its fruitiness
comes from quince and pear skins with a definite structure. It is young, most likely requiring aging over at least
18 months. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $14
85
Caves Aliança 2012 Galeria Bical (Bairrada). Bical produces delicious pear and apple
flavored wines. This bright, fruity wine is a fine example
of this creamy freshness. It is a wine for drinking now,
while fresh and crisp at the end. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $9
Quinta de Chocapalha 2011 Reserva
Branco Chardonnay (Lisboa). The Lisboa
region’s vineyards are a playground for so many varieties.
Chardonnay in this cool area is very Burgundian, balancing ripe yellow fruits with a crisper, mineral character,
supported here by wood aging. There’s a touch of butter to contrast with the final acidity. Solstars Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Caves Velhas 2012 Bucellas Arinto
(Bucelas). A fragrant, peach and pineapple
flavored wine, it’s soft, ripe and creamy with just a touch
of smoky toast. Worth aging a few months, but delicious
now. Intercontinental Packaging. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
88
Quinta de Chocapalha 2011 White (Lisboa). Dominated by Viosinho, a grape found
more often in the Douro, this wine has a fascinating
perfumed character. It’s smoky, with white currant and
green herbs, and a steely edge that adds to the tight
structure of the wine. Solstars Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
87
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2011 Quinta
dos Loridos Alvarinho (Lisboa). A high elevation in the hills north of Lisbon allows the Alvarinho
grape to flourish. The wine is crisp, lightly fruity, and
driven by citrus flavors. Perfumed, aromatic and ready
to drink. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
86
Quinta de Chocapalha 2010 Arinto Arinto
(Lisboa). A soft, gentle wine, this is clean and
purely fruity. With ripe pear and apple flavors, it gets a
tang of lemon acidity. It’s already drinkable, but could
age for several more months. Solstars Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
tejo
86
Falua 2012 Conde de Vimioso Colheita
Selecionada (Tejo). Fernão Pires and Arinto
are blended together to yield this ripe and warm, while
also poised wine. It has pear and creamed apple flavors
that are shot through with orange-zest acidity. Ready
to drink in six months. Aidil Wines/Old World Import.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
84
Falua 2012 Tagus Creek Chardonnay and
Fernão Pires (Tejo). Chardonnay offers the
roundness while Fernão Pires offers perfume in this attractive, ready-to-drink wine. It has bright, crisp lemon
and green-apple acidity that is immediately appealing.
Screwcap. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
88
Aveleda 2012 Alvarinho (Minho). For full
review see page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
WineMag.com | 45
buyingguide
Península de
Setúbal
91
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2011 Catarina (Península de Setúbal). Chardonnay has
always been an important element in this wine, named
for Catherine of Bragança, a Portuguese princess and
English queen. The grape offers a smooth surface to the
more aromatic Portuguese varieties that are ripe and
rich with pear and peach flavors and just a touch of spice
from the wood. Admiral Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
91
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2011 Cova
de Ursa Chardonnay (Península de
Setúbal). A big, bold, buttery Chardonnay that doesn’t
beat about the bush. It is generously rich with a creamy
texture that’s enhanced by spice from wood aging. Full
bodied, and still young, so give this wine 2–3 years. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
91
Herdade da Comporta 2011 Parus Branco Antão Vaz (Península de Setúbal).
This wine is ripe and spicy with flavors of pineapple
and creamed apple. It’s youthfully delicious at the moment, but with good potential for aging. The acidity is
just in balance, giving a fresh aftertaste. Drink now for
its freshness, or age for greater complexity. Value Vines
LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
90
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2011 Quinta da Bacalhôa Branco (Península de
Setúbal). An unusual blend of Semillon, Alvarinho
and Sauvignon Blanc, all aimed at keeping freshness in
the warm climate of Setúbal. This ripe, smooth wine is
deliciously cut with acidity to give a lightly wood-aged
wine that could age for another 2–3 years. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
85
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2012 JP
Azeitão Branco (Península de Setúbal).
This is a very perfumed wine, with the addition of
Moscatel in the blend, adding the lychee flavor. It’s textured with a crisp edge that allows the wine to retain its
fresh character. This is a wine to be drunk young. Admiral Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
85
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2012 Serras
de Azeitão Selecção do Enólogo (Península de Setúbal). Very tropical and aromatic, this is
a powerfully rich white. It is tangy with sweet oranges, layered with pineapple and apricot. There is a spicy,
peppery character that comes from the alcohol. Admiral
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
alentejano
93
Luis Duarte 2011 Rubrica Branco (Alentejano). This is a big, rich and complex wine
that is both elegant and powerful. With its tropical
fruits, apricot, wood spice and beautifully balanced
acidity, this is a great wine. There are so many things
still maturing, it has considerable potential for aging
over five years and more. Laurel Importers. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
91
Adega Mayor 2011 Reserva do Comendador Branco (Alentejano). Wood-aged
wine that is ripe, spicy and ageworthy. It has weight—
a Chardonnay-like buttery character—followed with
pear, peach and pineapple flavors. Keep this dense wine
for another 2–3 years. Aidil Wines/Old World Import.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
89
Adega Mayor 2011 Solista Branco Verdelho (Alentejano). Solista, meaning made from
one grape rather than a blend, is a new range of wines
from Adega Mayor. This fresh, fruity Verdelho is perfumed, with lemon and orange-peel flavors. It’s all ready
to drink. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
88
Luis Duarte 2012 Rapariga da Quinta
Branco (Alentejano). This blend of Antão
Vaz and Verdelho is rich and creamy with spice and
green plum flavors given a boost by vanilla and ginger flavors. There’s a fine perfumed aftertaste from the
Verdelho. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
86
J. Portugal Ramos 2012 Marquês de Borba Branco (Alentejo). A smooth, creamy textured wine that has both citrus and richer tropical fruits.
Pineapple and lemon mingle with a more zesty acidity
to give a fruity wine that could age for a few months.
Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
85
J. Portugal Ramos 2012 Loios Branco
(Alentejano). This is a light and fruity wine
from J. Portugal Ramos. It’s crisp, with lemon and citrus
flavor, and bright with grapefruit acidity. Drink now and
over the next year. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
sparkling wine
86
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 Loridos Extra-Bruto Chardonnay (Vinho
Espumante de Qualidade). This is a soft, fragrant
wine, with attractive acidity, creamy apples and fresh
acidity. The Chardonnay gives a rounded character
while also keeping the tight, mineral texture at the end.
Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
85
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 Loridos
Vintage Extra-Bruto (Vinho Espumante
de Qualidade). Blending Castelão and Arinto from
the high elevation Quinta dos Loridos, this is a tight,
bright wine, with an edge of almond bitterness, as well
as citrus fruits. It’s a crisp, bone-dry wine with no dosage. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
84
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2011 Loridos Rosé Bruto (Vinho Espumante de
Qualidade). This very crisp, cool-climate sparkling
rosé is a blend of Castelão and Merlot. It has acidity, a
touch of raspberry fruit and a just off-dry ripeness. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
dessert wine
89
Quinta do Ameal 2011 Ameal S.H. (Portuguese Table Wine). Even in the Vinho Verde
region, specific vineyards can produce luscious sweet
wines such as this. Honeyed and layered with delicious
acidity, this is a very fine wine, worth aging for a year or
two, but ready to drink now. —R.V.
abv: 9%
Price: $NA/375 ml
rosés
85
Falua 2012 Conde de Vimioso Colheita
Selecionada Rosé (Tejo). A bright pink colored rosé, this blend of Touriga Nacional and Syrah, has
strawberry flavors and a touch of sweetness from the
ripe fruits that is balanced with an attractive acidity. Enjoy with food rather than as an aperitif. Aidil Wines/Old
World Import. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
84
Azeitão Rosé (Península de Setúbal).
This fruity, perfumed wine (the Moscatel Roxo in the
blend sees to that), is ripe and full bodied, with some
light sweetness giving a soft, gentle aftertaste. Screwcap. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
84
Caves Aliança 2012 Vista Rosé (Beiras).
Young and fruity, this a crisp, lightly acid wine.
Its raspberry fruits are already delicious. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $9
84
Quinta do Portal 2012 Colheita Rosé
(Douro). This rosé is almost as rich as a red
wine, the difference being a fresher, red-fruit character.
It has vanilla flavors, a dry texture and a touch of pepper.
M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
83
Adega Mayor 2011 Monte Mayor Rosé
(Alentejano). Bright and fruity, this dayglo
pink wine is dominated by acidity, though the strawberry flavors offer a riper core. It’s for drinking this summer. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
83
Aveleda 2012 Casal Garcia Rosé (Vinho Verde). Lightly sweet, this is a soft, gently
fruity wine with a prickle on the tongue and fruit-drop
acidity. Screwcap. Aveleda Imports. —R.V.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $8
Portugal
red wines
douro
94
Quinta do Portal 2009 Auru (Douro). This
top red from Portal is dense and richly solid.
With its super-ripe black fruits, it is impressively structured. Perfumed, with rich tannins and spice, this is a
complex, long-lived wine. Keep for six years. M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $120
93
Quinta do Portal 2010 Reserva (Douro).
Both elegant and powerful, this reserva shows
a sophisticated take on Douro tannins and minerality.
Black fruit lies beneath a surface offering structure,
complex texture, as well as a potentially rich but balanced wine. Give this 5–6 years. M Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
93
Sogrape 2009 Casa Ferreirinha Antonia
Adelaide Ferreira (Douro). Antonia Ferreira was the a major figure in the Douro, and creator
of many of the regions’ greatest vineyards. This wine,
celebrating her legacy, comes from old vines at Quinta do Seixo. It’s a dense, smoothly rich wine, that’s very
concentrated. Limpid black fruits are sustained by firmer acidity, new wood flavors and a dark, firm aftertaste.
Keep for seven years and more. Broadbent Selections,
Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 15%
Price: $79
92
Duorum 2011 Colheita (Douro). This is a
firm, terroir-driven wine that has a dense core of
firm tannins as well as serious black fruits. With its wood
aging element and concentrated black plum and damson flavors, this is obviously for long-term aging. Give it
at least five years. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
91
Caves Aliança 2009 Foral Reserva (Douro). A solid, chunky and structured wine, this
wine has firm, dense fruits—black plum and sweet
cherries—richly gathered into a powerful whole.
There’s a fine, juicy acidity that comes through at the
end, bringing freshness to a very ageworthy wine. TriVin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
91
Caves Aliança 2009 Quinta dos Quatro
Ventos Colheita (Douro). The rich 2009
vintage has produced a rich version of this single-quinta
wine. Almost Port-like in its ripe fruits and sweet tannins, it only slowly shows a more structured, table wine
character. Black fruits are dominant on this very juicy
and spicy wine. Age for 4–5 years. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $25
91
Companhia das Quintas 2010 Quinta
da Fronteira Reserva (Douro). This wine
shows the richness of superripe fruit balanced with
intense character of the rugged Douro terroir. Black
plums, sweet tannins and clear acidity are well balanced
and ready to age for a good four years and more. Massanois Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
91
Quinta do Portal 2010 Mural Reserva
(Douro). This is a powerful, concentrated, burly wine that has great swathes of black fruit over firm
tannins. It’s a solid, foursquare selection, packed with
structure and very ageworthy. Give this impressive wine
at least five years. M Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
91
Vilalva 2009 Reserva (Douro). This wine
is reserved, holding back its full fruit behind a
strong, stern shell of tannin. Berry fruits mingle with
spice and wood flavors. It’s going to need several years’
aging to show the concentrated structure of the Douro.
Intercontinental Packaging. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
90
Cap Wine 2011 Pilheiros Grande Escolha (Douro). Old vines on terraced vineyards
give this concentrated, tannic, fruit-laden wine immense power. Spice, blackberries and black plums are
combined with wood aging, yielding a wine that could
benefit from long-term aging. Give it 5–6 years. LVDH
USA Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
90
Quinta do Portal 2010 Colheita (Douro). This is a serious wine, but still young. It
has a strong, tannic element that powers through with
dark fruit and acidity. With wood aging, a dry core and
weight, this is a dark wine, ready for aging over the next
4–5 years. M Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
Cap Wine 2010 Barco Negro (Douro).
This is a delicious, fruity wine, full of black
fruits and soft tannins. The wine is forward, and ripe,
and demands to be drunk now. Have it with a barbecue.
LVDH USA Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
84
Caves Velhas 2012 Topázio (Douro). On
the lean side, this is a dry, tannic wine with
more structure than flesh. It’s firm, with a strong sense
of wood aging followed by some acidity. It could soften
in 3–4 years. Intercontinental Packaging. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
dão
94
Sogrape 2009 Quinta dos Carvalhais Unico (Dão). The top wine from Sogrape’s Dão
flagship quinta, this is a selection of the best parcels. It’s
a powerful, serious wine, showing great regional characters of dark, mineral tannins and rich black fruits.
There’s a fine line of juicy acidity that cuts through the
firm structure. Age this major wine for at least six years.
Evaton, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $68
91
Caves Aliança 2009 Quinta da Garrida
Reserva (Dão). This vineyard in the foothills
of the Serra da Estrela, Portugal’s highest mountains,
brings out the sense of dark granite soil and structure.
In addition, it shows ripe berry fruit flavors, sweet tannins and great acidity. Keep this serious wine for five
years. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
90
Caves Aliança 2009 Aliança Particular
Reserva (Dão). An estate wine from Aliança’s
vineyards in the Dão, this is powerful and rich. Its structure is cushioned by ripe black fruits, juicy acidity and
density. With its concentrated fruits and minerality, this
is a wine for aging over the next four years. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
89
Caves Velhas 2009 Solo Reserva Touriga
Nacional (Dão). Big and spicy wood flavors
dominate this rich, expressive wine. With its black currant and berry flavors, it’s both fruity and structured.
There is dense dryness as well that gives concentration
to back up the fruitiness. Intercontinental Packaging.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
88
Caves Aliança 2010 Aliança Reserva
(Dão). A wine with great juicy swathes of fruit
that combine well with the natural structure of the Dão.
It is textured and firmly tannic, with delicious black
fruits coming through. It’s ready to drink, but will certainly benefit from 1–2 years’ aging. Tri-Vin Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
88
Moura Basto 2010 Colheita Seleccionada (Dão). This is an earthy wine, showing
strong tannins, minerality and a distinctly dry texture.
The wine does have weight with its layered black currant fruits giving a strong sense of structure. From the
granite soils of the Dão, this is a wine to age for three
more years. Intercontinental Packaging. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
beiras
94
Companhia das Quintas 2010 Quinta do
Cardo Grande Escolha (Beira Interior).
From the mountainous far east of Portugal, the dense,
granite feel of this wine is palpable and potent. It has
weight, balanced by intense acidity, stalky black currant
fruits and a core of dark, firm tannins. Age this concentrated wine for at least 3–4 years. Massanois Imports.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
93
Companhia das Quintas 2010 Quinta do
Cardo Reserva Touriga Nacional (Beira
Interior). Darkly tannic, this powerful wine has an austere, firmly dry character that will take time to soften,
WineMag.com | 47
buyingguide
eventually showing both richness and a sense of structure alongside lush dark-fruit notes. Keep for five years
and more. Massanois Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
90
Caves Aliança 2009 Quinta da Dôna (Bairrada). The label made from cork adds a curiosity value to this big, firmly tannic wine. With its
weight, considerable structure and chunky black fruits,
it’s definitely a wine to age. Give it 5–6 years. Tri-Vin
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
90
Caves Aliança 2010 Vista Reserva Touriga Nacional (Beiras). With many characteristics of the granite-soil based Dão, this is a dense, mineral and dark fruited wine. It has blackberry and plumskin fruits as well as a firm, tannic core. Even though it’s
tightly structured now, it is drinkable, but would benefit
from another year’s aging. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
lisboa
93
Quinta de Chocapalha 2009 CH de Chocapalha Touriga Nacional (Lisboa). From
the best Touriga Nacional vines at Chocapalha, this exceptional wine is firm and tannic while also elegant. It
has great black fruits, perfumes, a structured character
and density. With all these characteristics, it’s no surprise the wine should age for at least another 5–6 years.
Solstars Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
92
Companhia das Quintas 2010 Quinta de
Pancas Reserva Touriga Nacional (Lisboa). With just a hint of cool climate Lisboa, this is an
impressively structured wine. It has fine tannins, perfumed black fruits and a dense texture that goes right to
the core of the wine. This is rich while offering a finely
etched character. Age for 4–5 years. Massanois Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
92
Quinta de Chocapalha 2009 Vinha Mãe
(Lisboa). An earthy wine, solid with its tannins and very firm to taste. The texture is dense, solid
and powerful, bringing out blackberry and plum fruits
to great effect. It’s ripe, full-bodied and needing to age
for 3–4 years. Solstars Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
91
Quinta de São Sebastião 2008 Grande
Escolha (Lisboa). A selection of grapes,
wines and barrels, this is a fine, rich wine. It has great
concentration, density and a solid, firm character that
promises aging. Juicy black fruits shine through the firm
tannins and bring out acidity. Keep this serious wine for
at least five years. WinTrading USA. Editors’ Choice.
—R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Quinta de Chocapalha 2010 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Lisboa). This is Sandra Tavares
da Silva’s take on Cabernet Sauvignon in the cool cli-
mate vineyards north of Lisbon. It’s a fruity view, bringing out black currant fruits. The tannins are firm and,
dry, giving structure to the delicious fruit. Age for 3–4
years. Solstars Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
89
Quinta de São Sebastião 2009 Reserva
(Lisboa). A powerful, tannic wine, very dry
and firm. Underneath the dry exterior, there are great
fruits waiting to fully express themselves. It will always
be a structured wine, the black fruits a serious component along with the spice from wood aging. Keep for
4–5 more years. WinTrading USA. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
90
Moura Basto 2010 Reserva (Tejo). This
Castelão-dominated wine is a powerful, rich
and solid wine that is already showing delicious red
fruits. Very ripe, it’s juicy and generously structured.
It could benefit from some time to evolve, so wait 3–4
years. Intercontinental Packaging. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
Moura Basto 2012 Tinto (Tejo). A very firm
wine, this shows fine tannins alongside a cool
black-currant fruit character. It’s solid but young, with
pepper, fresh fruit and a bright aftertaste. Intercontinental Packaging. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
86
87
Península de
Setúbal
Quinta de Chocapalha 2010 Mar de Lisboa (Lisboa). Named after the sea just across
the hills from Chocapalha, this is a forward, attractively
fruity wine. It is all about red fruits, light tannins, refreshing acidity and immediate drinkability. Solstars
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
Quinta de Chocapalha 2009 Mar da Palha
(Lisboa). Celebrating the beaches and waters
around Lisbon in name, this ripe and fruity wine is forward with black fruits and soft tannins. It’s an easy, rich
wine, finishing with bright acidity. Solstars Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
86
Quinta de São Sebastião 2010 Mina Velha (Lisboa). A firmly tannic wine, bringing out
its cool climate origin. But the wine does have weight
and the potential for showing black fruits and darkplum skins, as well as a dry character. Keep for another
year. WinTrading USA. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
82
Quinta de São Sebastião 2011 Mina Velha (Lisboa). Earthy aromas lead to a wine
that has some greenness, with dry tannins and bell pepper flavors. It is not likely to age. WinResources USA.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $7
tejo
92
Caves Velhas 2010 Cabeça de Toiro
Reserva (Tejo). A smooth wine, richly structured with tannins and blackberry flavors. The wood is
already well integrated, giving a solid base for the concentrated fruit and spice. Named after the bullfighting
tradition of the Tejo region, the wine should age for at
least four years. Intercontinental Packaging. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
90
Casaleiro 2012 Reserva (Tejo). A fine, ripe
wine, fully structured with its tannins supported
by delicious red fruits. It has concentration and a generous feel to it, showing warmth as well as a strong line in
acidity. The wine finishes with spice, fruit, and tannins
in the background. Vision Wine & Spirits. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
Caves Velhas 2012 Vinhas Altas Reserva (Tejo). An obviously wood-aged wine, this is
very spicy with soft tannins. It has ripe berry fruits and
a dry core surrounded by fragrant acidity. This blend
of Castelão, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira is not for
aging. Mid-Atlantic Sales Group. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
94
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 Palácio
de Bacalhôa (Península de Setúbal). The
vineyard of the beautiful Bacalhôa palace was planted
with Cabernet Sauvignon many years ago. This complex
and rich wine has power, concentration and delicious
mature fruits. It is dense and fully developed now, a
finely made wine. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
93
da Bacalhôa (Península de Setúbal). This
beautiful 15th century quinta was originally planted
with Bordeaux grapes in the 1970s. It gives an original
interpretation of Bordeaux; it’s rich and juicy, retaining black currant fruit alongside dry tannins and a solid
structure. It’s a fine wine that deserves aging—give it
5–6 years or more. Admiral Imports. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
93
Herdade da Comporta 2009 Comporta Alicante Bouschet (Península de Setúbal).
A wine that reveals the potential of Alicante Bouschet.
Darkly colored, smoothly tailored with wood, spice and
dense berry fruits, this is a wine that is produced only in
the best years. It has great aging potential, so keep for at
least 6–7 years. Value Vines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $61
92
Herdade da Comporta 2010 Parus Tinto
(Península de Setúbal). For full review see
page 5.
abv: 14%
87
Price: $42
Herdade da Comporta 2009 Tinto (Península de Setúbal). This wine is somewhat
green, with upfront tannins. It does have more weight
than previous vintages, along with some black plum
fruits, but there is still a touch of green that won’t disappear. Value Vines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
There’s a great, rich tang to this impressive wine. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
86
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2009 Meia
Pipa (Península de Setúbal). Meia Pipa—
meaning half or small barrel—is a familiar brand in
Portugal. This wine, from just south of Lisbon, is light,
fruity and attractive. It has acidity, red berry fruits and
a balanced tannic character. It’s ready to drink. Admiral
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
93
85
93
Azeitão Tinto (Península de Setúbal). Bitter cherry, ripe berry fruits and some firm tannins are
nicely blended in this forward, fruity wine. It has fresh
acidity alongside black-currant fruit, ending on a spicy
accent. Admiral Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
85
Herdade da Comporta 2012 Chão das
Rolas (Península de Setúbal). This is a
bright, fruity wine, full of acidity and generous red fruit
flavors with a soft texture. This will be ready to drink in
a year. Value Vines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
84
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2009 Má
Partilha Merlot (Península de Setúbal).
Despite its alcohol and potential richness, this has as
much green, herbal character as fruitiness. It’s structured and juicy, and shows considerable acidity. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
palmela
88
Private Selection Castelão (Palmela).
Castelão is the grape of the Setúbal peninsula, which
includes Palmela. This big, chunky, fruity wine gives a
rich, maturing character, perfumed with layers of wood.
Smoky and meaty, it is ready to drink. Admiral Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
alentejano
94
Luis Duarte 2010 Rubrica (Alentejano).
Mint aromas and flavors lead to an intense wine
that is powered at this young stage by firm, serious tannins. It has great richness from the black plum fruits,
and a spicy, herbal character that adds complexity. From
consultant Luis Duarte, this is a wine for long-term aging; hold for 6–7 years or more. Laurel Importers. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
93
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 Tinto
da Anfora Grande Escolha (Alentejano).
This finely structured, maturing wine is very much
ready to drink. It has sweet red fruits that are developing secondary flavors of spice, herbs and juicy acidity.
Herdade de São Miguel 2010 Herdade
da Pimenta Grande Escolha (Alentejano). Long wood aging is the secret behind this smooth,
complex wine. It has softened the dark fruits giving
both richness and the potential for considerable aging.
Dense and powerful, keep this fine wine for at least six
years. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
Reserva (Alentejano). Dominated by Alicante Bouschet, this is a rich, complex wine. It has a
strong spicy wood element that pushes through the rich
black fruits that are supported by balanced acidity. With
its firm tannins and textured character, this is a wine that
needs to age over at least five years. Laurel Importers.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
92
Herdade de São Miguel 2010 Reserva
(Alentejano). An impressive wine that includes Cabernet Sauvignon in its blend. It has weight,
complex tannins and powerful fruit that was fermented
in open lagars. New wood is still an important element
and those imparted notes need time to soften. Give this
wine at least five years. Saraiva Enterprises. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
91
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2011 Monte das Anforas (Alentejano). This is a dark,
brooding wine, very dense and dominated by its youthful tannins. It has great potential with its rich fruits
showing through slowly. Complex and ready to age,
needing at least five years. Admiral Imports. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
91
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 Quinta do Carmo Reserva (Alentejano). This
smooth wine is mature now, with notes of leather and
spice that mingle well together. The wine has weight,
density and juicy acidity, but it’s also deliciously rich.
Made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah as well as
Portuguese varieties. Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
91
J. Portugal Ramos 2011 Ramos Premium (Alentejano). This is a serious, ripe wine,
designed for aging. A blend of Aragonez, Syrah and
Touriga Nacional, it has weight, solid tannins and juicy
black fruit. Its dry core adds a firm side to the wine that
will soften over the next 3–4 years. Winebow. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
91
Sogrape 2009 Herdade do Peso Reserva
(Alentejo). A solid, rich wine, packed with sundrenched black- and red-berry fruits. It’s firm, with the
tannins still dominant. Spice, pepper and wood flavors
add complexity. It’s a wine for aging over the next 4–5
years. Evaton, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
90
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2010 Tinto
da Anfora (Alentejano). Complex and rich,
this is a powerful young wine. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga Nacional, it’s no surprise this is a
firmly tannic choice, with solid, dense plum-skin flavors.
Give this wine at least four years. Admiral Imports. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
90
Caves Aliança 2009 Quinta da Terrugem
(Alentejo). A wood-aged, complex wine, this is
ripe, richly soft and full in the mouth. Great swathes of
ripe plum and tannins give it density and a dusty, solid
texture. From a good year, this is a delicious and ageworthy wine. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Herdade de São Miguel 2011 São Miguel
Touriga Nacional (Alentejano). Black
hedgerow fruits are a great source of the forward juiciness of this wine. It is rich while very structured, formal
almost. Fresh black-currant flavors keep the wine lively,
while the perfumed spice adds piquancy. Age for 3–4
years. Saraiva Enterprises. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
89
Companhia das Quintas 2010 Herdade
da Farizoa Reserva (Alentejano). Big and
rich, this wine is exuberantly fruity with a sweet juicy
core of ripe blackberry. Big, bold and forward with wellintegrated tannins, this is likely to age quickly; try in 2–3
years. Massanois Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
89
Herdade de São Miguel 2011 Ciconia The
Reserva (Alentejano). A black-hued blend
of Aragonez, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira, this is
powerful, rich and firmly packed with tannins as well as
dense plum and wood flavors. Accents of spice and mint
add complexity. The wine will benefit from 2–3 years
of aging to soften and round out, but it’s drinkable now.
Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
89
J. Portugal Ramos 2011 Vila Santa Reserva (Alentejano). A big fruity wine, full of black
fruit flavors and laced with soft tannins and acidity. This
is rich, dense and so delicious to drink now. You could
age it for a year or two, but why wait? Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
89
Colheita Seleccionada (Alentejano). This
big, ripe wine is well polished with a juicy, fragrant
character from the spiced plums. The wood aging has
resulted in deceptively soft tannins, and the delicious
black fruits are still upfront. This wine could age for 2–3
years. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
88
do Carmo (Alentejano). Carmo was formerly owned by the Rothschild family of Château Lafite. In
this now maturing 2009 selection, there is a firm character, leavened by dried fruits, dark berries and some
WineMag.com | 49
buyingguide
smooth woody characters. It’s a wine to drink now, or
age for 2–3 more years. Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
fruits, light acidity and a simple attractive touch of tannin. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
87
84
Caves Velhas 2011 Magna Carta Reserva
(Alentejano). Dominated by its tannins and
woody characteristics, this is a tough, chunky wine. It
has weight and potential depth of black fruit, needing
at least four years to soften out. Intercontinental Packaging. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
Herdade de São Miguel 2010 Ciconia
Touriga Nacional (Alentejano). This is a
full-bodied, solid wine, dominated at this early stage
in its development by tannins as well as black currant
fruits. The wine is potentially warm, perfumed with
truffles and spice. Age for a couple of years. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
87
J. Portugal Ramos 2012 Loios Tinto
(Alentejano). A rich, fruity wine that’s ready
to drink now, especially with a barbecue. There are
swathes of red fruits, light tannins and attractive juicy
acidity. Drink this year. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
86
Adega Mayor 2010 Solista Touriga Nacional (Alentejano). This is a densely tannic
wine, very ripe and concentrated. It is perfumed, rich,
and blackberry fruited, showing the character of Touriga Nacional, but in an exaggerated form. Age the wine
for at least two more years. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
86
Caves Aliança 2010 Alabastro Reserva (Alentejano). This simple, ripe and fruity
wine is destined for early drinking. It has rich dark plum
fruits, a sprinkling of tannins and a fine juicy character.
Very ready to drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
85
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2010 Dom
Martinho (Alentejano). From the Dom Martinho vineyard at Quinta do Carmo, this is a fresh wine,
with an earthy, rustic character. Black fruits, juicy acidity and a leathery edge give it a mix of fruitiness and dryness. Age for a few more months before drinking. Wine
In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
85
Herdade de São Miguel 2011 Ciconia
Aragonez (Alentejano). Aragonez, aka Tempranillo, here produces a ripe, juicy, red-fruit laden
wine. Hedgerow fruits add a more stalky character to
the palate. The whole wine is generously suffused with
fresh acidity. Screwcap. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
84
Adega Mayor 2011 Caiado (Alentejano).
A soft, fruity and lightweight wine. It has red
Herdade de São Miguel 2011 São Miguel
Alicante Bouschet (Alentejano). Wines at
15.5% alcohol suggest too much of everything. This
wine is no exception, with its heavily extracted character, bitter chocolate and wood perfumes. It should soften in 2–3 years, but will always be overweight. Saraiva
Enterprises. —R.V.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $18
port
89
Quinta do Portal NV Ten Year Old Aged
Tawny Port. A classic 10-year old tawny, hovering tantalizingly between wood-aged flavors and fruit.
It comes down just on the side of the wood flavors, suggesting the blend has some older wines in it. It is a deliciously drinkable, not too dry, wine. M Imports, LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $34
89
Quinta do Portal 2008 Late Bottled Vintage Port. With its stumpy, old fashioned bottle and cork, this is an LBV for aging. It is perfumed and
smooth, with a core of solid tannins and a firm texture.
Black fruits and just the right amount of sweetness balance the dryness of the spirit. Keep for several years, or
drink now. M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $24
88
Quinta do Portal NV Twenty Seven
Grapes Reserve Port. A field blend from
old-style Port vineyards where as many as 27 grape varieties grow all mixed up. The result is a surprisingly
traditional style, with fruitiness combining with a dark
and tannic character. It is sweet, the raisin fruitiness a
signature. M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $21
other fortified
wines
93
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2001 Bacalhôa Moscatel Roxo (Península de
Setúbal). Aged for 10 years in former malt-whisky
barrels, this is a beautiful, woody, smoky and sweetly
rich wine. It has perfumes, a hint of initial fruitiness
that is then given complexity and a delicious smooth
texture. Not for aging, ready to drink now. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 18.5%
Price: $50
92
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2000 Colheita (Moscatel de Setúbal). This aged Moscatel shows great concentration. It has an old feel to it as
well as a wood and smoke character, with considerable
density. The wine is mature, rich and complex. Admiral
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 18%
Price: $40
88
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2009 Colheita (Moscatel de Setúbal). Young Moscatel
de Setúbal brings out fruitiness and freshness as much
as richness. So with this wine, you find a lemon and honey character, attractive acidity and a light texture. Delicious to drink now. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 17.5%
Price: $20
spain
rías baixas
88
Nessa 2012 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Minerally, oceanic aromas of sea shell, apple and
nectarine are focused and fresh. In the mouth, this
is easygoing and a bit plump, with good acidity pushing peach, citrus and apple flavors. A pithy finish with
hints of almond skin is mildly bitter and tight. Grapes
of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
88
Veiga da Princesa 2012 Albariño (Rías
Baixas). This fresh, young Albariño is offering
mild citrus and pear aromas. The palate is crisp, light
in weight and good as a whole, with citrus, green apple
and nectarine flavors. On the finish, peach and papaya
flavors show a tinge of bitterness. The Artisan Collection. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
87
Fillaboa 2010 Selección Finca Monte
Alto Albariño (Rías Baixas). This older Albariño is hanging in there but it should transition to past
its prime in the near future. For now, the nose offers
aged citrus notes and pithiness. The palate is citrusy in
feel but fading, while flavors of orange and peach pit finish bland. Drink immediately. The Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
86
Vionta 2011 Limited Release Albariño
(Rías Baixas). Butterscotch and candle wax
aromas signal a wine in the early stages of decline. In
addition, this shows dusty apple and mild citrus scents.
The palate is being kept upright by citrusy acidity, while
flavors of nectarine and citrus end with bready, aged
notes. Drink immediately or wait for the 2012. Freixenet USA. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
85
Ramón Bilbao 2012 Valiñas Albariño
(Rías Baixas). White-fruit aromas, brine and
clam shell notes get this Albariño going. The mouthfeel
is full and lemony. Flavors of pickled, briny citrus and
nectarine carry onto the finish. This is at its best now;
in 2014 it will not be so good. Deutsch Family Wine &
Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
cava
87
1+1=3 NV Brut (Cava). This amounts to a
clean Cava with lemon-lime aromas that settle
down well. A fresh, pure palate features lemon-lime
and orange flavors in front of a citrusy, dry palate that’s
neither yeasty nor complex. This is basic but perfectly
good. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $16
87
Mas de Monistrol 2007 Premium Cuvée
Brut Millésime (Cava). Basic, minerally aromas of apple and pear are good and suggest iodine. The
mouthfeel is a bit foamy, but this is also fresh and vital
for a 2007 Cava. Crisp flavors of lime, orange and green
herbs end similarly, with linear balance. Casa Ventura
Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
86
Agustí Torelló Mata 2009 Brut Reserva (Cava). Bready, slightly oxidized aromas of
yeasty white fruits, vanilla and brine are challenging. In
the mouth, this is juicy and intense, with green herbs,
brine and pithy citrus flavors. A slightly pickled tasting finish hints at sauerkraut and bitter lime. Prior wines from
this producer were better. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $22
85
Conde de Subirats NV Brut (Cava). Briny
fruit and distant toast aromas get this Cava started. The palate feels foamy, while pithy flavors of mildly
bitter, heavy white fruits finish with a touch of burn and
generic citrus. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $13
85
Vicente Gandia NV Hoya de Cadenas
Brut Organic (Cava). This organic Cava
opens with round, yeasty aromas of dusty spice and
baked apple. It’s juicy in feel, while flavors of mature,
pithy orange and grapefruit end short, both in length
and level of finesse. For something bright and fresh, this
fits the bill. Vicente Gandia PLA. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $13
91
Montecastro 2009 y Llanahermosa (Ribera del Duero). This smells slightly gamy
and leathery, with upfront oak, marzipan and big blackfruit aromas. The palate is full and blocky but balanced,
with toasty flavors of clove, savory berry, spice and raw
oak. The finish is dry and tannic, with heat, unresolved
oak and chocolate flavors. Best from 2015–2018. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $43
91
Telmo Rodríguez 2009 M2 de Matallana
(Ribera del Duero). Lush, smooth berry and
cassis aromas welcome you into a wide, dense wine that
offers elegance along with power. An expansive mouthfeel with firm tannins frames earthy berry and black
plum flavors, while the finish settles nicely and is more
mellow than fiery. Drink this delicious but uncomplicated wine from a warm vintage through 2018. Vintus
LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
87
Montecastro 2009 Alconte Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Compared to Montecastro’s higher-end 2009s, this smells stalky and leathery,
with herbal shadings accenting familiar black-fruit aromas. The palate feels grabby, while the flavors suggest
charred leather, stalky berry and clove. The lasting impression is of a gamy, slightly hot wine that’s good but
has its weaknesses. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $32
87
short with coffee and bitter chocolate notes. The Artisan Collection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
85
Torres 2010 Celeste Crianza (Ribera del
Duero). This smells stalky and leathery, while
the mouthfeel is tannic, raw and racy. Flavors of baked
black fruits turn herbal upon closer consideration, while
the finish feels drawing and tastes leathery and peppery,
without much fruit. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
rioja
89
Paco Garcia 2008 Beautiful Things (Rioja). Earthy, oaky, leathery berry and spice aromas come around nicely with airing. This is a plump
Rioja with modern leanings; it has good structure
and pretty raspberry and cassis flavors. A round finish
hints at raisiny maturity but doesn’t overdo the ripeness. Drink through 2015. Palmateer Consulting LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
86
Baron De Ley 2008 Reserva (Rioja). Short,
medicinal aromas of raspberry, plastic and latex
set up an astringent palate with hollow flavors of red
fruits and spice. The finish has some mild zest, oak and
standard Rioja accents of vanilla and tobacco. Frederick
Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
ribera del duero
Pinord 2010 Vaquos (Ribera del Duero).
Subtle but ripe berry aromas are earthy, leathery and hint at animal. The palate is fresh and focused,
with authentic raspberry and blackberry flavors. A
toasty, warm finish with a note of chocolate makes for a
good close. This is entirely commonplace for Ribera but
that doesn’t mean it’s not a nice wine. Republic National
Distributing Co. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
93
87
Viña Mayor 2010 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Ripe, brandied aromas of baked cherry
and blackberry are heady and leathery upon airing. This
shows raw tannins and scratchy acidity in front of traditional flavors: vanilla, oak, currant and raspberry. An
oaky finish comes with vanilla, toast and chocolaty accents. Habarcelo North America. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
86
86
85
Montecastro 2009 Finca la Roca (Ribera
del Duero). Inky, powerful berry and lemon
aromas open this very fine, earthy Ribera del Duero
red. The palate feels round and wide, with toasty flavors of baked black fruits, coffee and mocha. A warm,
slightly hot and spicy finish shows minty oak and chocolate flavors. Hold this structured wine another year or
two, then drink through 2020. Classical Wines. Cellar
Selection. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $95
92
Bodegas y Viñedos Tábula 2009 Gran
Tábula (Ribera del Duero). This darkleaning RDD is a powerful wine with mossy aromas
of graphite, blackberry and campfire. The palate is intense and racy, with firm tannins and acidic bite. A tight,
pounding flavor profile with blackberry, baked plum,
vanilla and tobacco ends with oak-based vanilla flavors
matched against leftover tannins and tartaric sizzle.
Keep this aggressive wine on its side for another two
years, then drink through 2025. Las Arribes LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $89
Emina 2010 Crianza (Ribera del Duero).
Ripe berry aromas approach raisiny, but settle
on jammy plum and leather. This is tannic and wide,
with ruggedness to the mouthfeel. Flavors of earthy
berry, baked fruits and cocoa end with grab, heat and
burn. This is good but rough, like a gravel road. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $21
86
Felix Callejo 2010 Flores de Callejo (Ribera del Duero). This basic but good wine
opens with powerful, dark and brawny berry and rubber-like aromas. The palate feels beefy and broad, with
thick, pummeling tannins. Baked black-fruit flavors end
86
El Coto 2008 Coto Real Reserva (Rioja). Tobacco, dill and vanilla aromas transition to
cherry and raspberry scents. The high-acid, cutting palate
contains tart raspberry, plum and vanilla flavors that maintain through the finish. From a rough vintage, this wine
is not excelling. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
Viña Cerrada 2008 Reserva (Rioja). Basic plum, raspberry and leather aromas are good
but not fancy or special. This is narrow and punchy on
the palate, with hard tannins and pointy acidity. Roasted
red-fruit flavors come with a woody accent, while the
finish is oaky, dry and short on flavor. Drink now. Oak
Barrel Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Maximo 2011 Edicion Limitada Garnacha
(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). For full review see page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 14%
Price: $9
84
Telmo Rodríguez 2008 Altos Lanzaga
Gran Viñedo (Rioja). From a mediocre vintage, it seems as though the winery poured on the fully
toasted oak to cover up marginal fruit. This smells like
burnt meat and rubber, tastes charred and baked, and
finishes blackened and overly toasty, with a choppy feel
and hard tannins. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $130
WineMag.com | 51
buyingguide
navarra
87
Príncipe de Viana 2008 Reserva 1423
(Navarra). Bright red-fruit aromas are
matched by dry spice and leathery scents. The feel on
this blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot is juicy and clampy, while flavors of red cherry,
plum and currant come with a vanilla shading. This finishes crisp, with punchy acidity. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
86
Bodegas Corellanas 2008 Viña Rubican
Crianza (Navarra). This Navarran blend
opens with spicy raspberry and red currant aromas.
The palate is sharp, prickly and edgy in feel, with flavors
of cherry tomato, herbs and racy red fruits. The hot,
scratchy finish can probably best be tamed with food.
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
86
Finca Albret 2008 Reserva (Navarra).
Leathery berry aromas are wiry and come with
a hit of lemony oak. The palate is tightly focused by
staunch acids, while flavors of tart berry, red plum, oak
spice and pepper end with scouring bite and a note of
anise. This is 85% Tempranillo with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Oak Barrel Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
85
Príncipe de Viana 2008 Reserva (Navarra). Narrow aromas of red currant, raspberry
and red plum carry a minty green accent. In the mouth,
this blend of Tempranillo, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is tight, with scratchy tannins and no shortage of
acidity. Flavors of red berry and plum offer dry spice
and herbal shadings. Sybarite Global LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
84
Pago de Larrainzar 2008 Raso de Larrainzar (Navarra). This blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Garnacha is gamy
on the nose, with aromas of tomato leaf, compost and
cherry-pie filling. The palate is decidedly acidic, while
flavors of zesty red fruits like red currant and sour plum
come across herbal and a touch weedy. Palmateer Consulting LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
priorat
89
Ferrer Bobet 2009 Vinyes Velles (Priorat). With a violet color and charred aromas of
oak, shoe polish and black fruits, this amounts to a very
good, woody blend of Carignan and Garnacha that’s as
healthy as an ox but hits like a bull in a China shop.
Blackberry, burnt toast and dark chocolate flavors finish spicy and hot, while rubbery tannins esure that this
has a grabby grip. This should improve with additional
bottle aging. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
88
Vall Llach 2009 Embruix (Priorat). Vall
Llach is known for making ripe-styled wines,
and this fits the bill. Embruix is ripe and raisiny on the
nose, with black currant and prune-like aromas. A thick,
jammy, stewy palate holds flavors of prune, blackberry
and bitter chocolate, while the finish is hot and sticky,
with molasses and chocolate flavors. Folio Fine Wine
Partners. —M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $25
87
Tosalet 2009 Vinyes Velles Old Vines (Priorat). Roasted, rubbery aromas come with an
herbal offset and mild stalky notes. This is full and rubbery feeling, with baked berry, herb and peppery flavors residing before a dry, tannic, stocky finish that’s a
fair conclusion to this blend of Garnacha, Carignan and
Cabernet Sauvignon. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $20
jumilla
88
Panarroz 2011 Red (Jumilla). Blackberry,
rubber, leather and spice aromas roll out on a
good bouquet. In the mouth, this blend of 80% Monastrell with Syrah and Garnacha is ripe, smooth and full in
feel, with chocolaty flavors of blackberry, espresso and
peppery spice. Finishing notes of coffee and blackened
toast are right for the wine. Hand Picked Selections.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
86
Wrongo Dongo 2011 Monastrell (Jumilla). Jammy berrry, raisin and licorice aromas
lead to a chewy, somewhat raisiny palate with prune,
blackberry and herbal flavors. A mild-tasting finish with
raisiny chunkiness and herbal notes is consistent with
the nose and palate. This is good for under $10 despite
being very ripe. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
85
Bodegas Silvano Garcia 2011 Viña Honda Monastrell (Jumilla). Pure blackberry
aromas are friendly, however the palate is scratchy and
sharp, with acidity that creates angularity and tartness.
That’s offset by generic black-fruit flavors and a touch of
mocha. This is good Monastrell although the acidity is
piercing. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
84
Lo Nuevo 2011 Vilata Old Vines Monastrell-Syrah (Jumilla). Gritty aromas of grilled
meat, rubber and baked plum lead to a candied tasting,
syrupy feeling palate that’s sweet in flavor and mildly
oaky. This results in a rich finish that’s sticky, a bit hot
and ripe. Vintage Point. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $10
83
Tarantas 2011 Monastrell (Jumilla).
Leathery, herbal aromas suggest compost. A
full, hard, tannic palate is home to rubbery flavors of
herbal blackberry and pepper, while a medicinal darkberry character controls the finish. This is a decent wine
with mild weediness. Natural Merchants LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
tierra de castilla y
león
91
Bodegas Leda 2009 Leda Viñas Viejas
Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). This modern, lush Tempranillo is roasted
and heavy up front, with blackberry, blueberry, earth
and leather aromas. It’s plump, chewy and ripe on the
palate, with baked, earthy flavors of blackberry, cassis,
mocha and moss. This is soft on the finish, with little to
no tannic bite or aggression. Drink through 2016. Folio
Fine Wine Partners. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
89
Bodegas Leda 2009 Más le Leda Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León).
This is a modern Tempranillo with big berry fruit aromas offset by baking spice scents and earthiness. The
palate feels bold and punchy, with round but present
tannins and ripe flavors of baked blackberry, chocolate
and mild spice. Drink this friendly, fruity, elevated wine
through 2016. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
84
Pegaso 2009 Barrancos de Pizarra (Vino
de la Tierra de Castilla y León). This wine
is hard, piercing and pushy on the nose, with a chemical note. A rubbery, soft palate carries little to no edge,
while flavors of cooked berry and carob finish with notes
of raisin and rubber. This bullish wine has its good points
but it’s tough and challenging. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $53
83
Finca la Rinconada 2009 Barcolobo 12
Meses en Barrica (Vino de la Tierra de
Castilla y León). Stalky, medicinal, rubbery aromas
announce an acidic Tempranillo-led blend that’s downright astringent on the palate. Flavors of stalky fruit,
buttery oak and sheer raspberry and plum end crisp and
tight, with a salty flavor. OFFbeat Brands. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
tierra de castilla
87
Tinedo 2009 Cala N. 2 Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon (Vino de la Tierra de
Castilla). Scratchy, minty aromas are the opening on
this rough and rugged blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. In the mouth, this is hard as nails, with
extreme tannic bite. Flavors of blackberry and chocolate are ripe and satisfying, while resiny oak, baking
spice notes and rough tannnins define the finish. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
84
Bodegas Navarro López 2011 Rojo Granrojo Garnacha (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Ripe, lightly spiced black cherry and berry aromas announce a good but basic wine. The palate is a
bit tough in feel but it’s solidly built. Candied, generic black-fruit flavors end simply, with modest syrupy
sweetness. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
82
Bodegas Navarro López 2011 Rojo Granrojo Tempranillo-Garnacha (Vino de la
Tierra de Castilla). Stalky, slightly green aromas
blend with generic berry scents to form a marginal bouquet. This is tannic and rough on the palate, with buttery oak flavors along with candied berry fruit notes.
Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
81
Cosecheros y Criadores 2011 Sweet Torito Garnacha (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Scratchy, dusty red-berry aromas are decidedly
sweet yet hollow. This semisweet Garnacha tastes of
gummy red fruits. A flat, cloying finish with candied
flavors confirms its sweet status. ENYE Distribution
Group, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
other red wines
88
Altavins 2009 Tempus (Terra Alta). Jammy
aromas of baked blackberry and plum are fiery
at first and then flatten out with airing. A choppy palate
offers a bumpy ride with ripe plum and berry flavors
in front of a full-force, toasty finish that shows a strong
grip courtesy of big tannins. This is two-thirds Garnacha with Syrah and Carignan. Deutsch Family Wine &
Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
88
Edetària 2009 Edetana (Terra Alta). Herbal, earthy, black-fruit aromas are toasty and a
touch stewy. The palate on this Garnacha-heavy red
is punchy and full, with dark flavors of black cherry,
cooked plum and chocolate. A baked finish with hints of
molasses concludes this warm, stewy Catalan red. Matadorvino LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
82
Real Compañia de Vinos 2011 Garnacha
(Spain). This is dark but somewhat green on
the nose, with currant, raspberry, beet and green herb
aromas. The palate feels tight to the point of abrasive,
with herbal plum flavors. A minty, forceful finish registers as hard and tannic. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $10
rhône valley reds
Châteauneuf-du-pape
94
Château de la Font du Loup 2010 Le Puy
Rolland (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This
100% Grenache cuvée displays charming and complex
aromas of garrigue and ripe cherries and raspberries.
It’s lush and creamy in texture despite being vinified
and aged in concrete. It’s a touch warm on the finish,
but delicious nonetheless. Drink now–2020. AHD Vintners. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $57
94
Château de Vaudieu 2010 Châteauneufdu-Pape. The 80% Grenache content of this
wine gives it a girth and an opulence that may not suit
everyone, but surely makes it an impressive example of
Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Just to smell it is to bathe in garrigue- and chocolate-tinged cherry juice, while in the
mouth it is huge, lush and creamy in texture. It’s long,
picking up additional spice notes on the finish. Drink
now–2025. Imported Heritage. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
93
Domaine de Beaurenard 2010 Boisrenard (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This is aged
in small oak barrels, but the cedar character is balanced
by ample cherry fruit and hints of milk chocolate. The
intensity of flavor, bright acids and firm tannins give this
a sense of ageworthiness. Drink 2015–2025. Citadel
Trading. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $75
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Domaine de la Janasse 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. A terrific value among
top-flight Châteauneufs, even Janasse’s entry-level wine
excels in 2010. Sexy leather and suede trappings embrace ripe cherry and chocolate notes, while the palate
exudes lushness yet retains enough firmness on the finish to suggest a lifespan of at least 6–8 years. European
Cellars. Editors’ Choice.—J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $66
Domaine de la Mordorée 2010 La Reine
des Bois (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). The Delorme family’s luxury cuvée is aged in a fair bit of small
oak, which imparts a plush texture and cedary overtones
to the wine. It’s full-bodied and powerful, loaded with
dark cherry fruit and baking spices that linger on the finish. Drink now–2020 or so. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $141
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Domaine de Nalys 2010 Réserve (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Full bodied and savory,
this is a dark, complex wine loaded with notes of cured
meat, black olive, espresso and plum. The tannins are
ripe to the point of imparting a creamy texture yet the
wine never seems overripe or jammy, maintaining a fine
sense of balance on the lingering finish. Frank-Lin International. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $68
Domaine de la Biscarelle 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. For an under-$50 wine,
the quality here is superb. Subtle cracked pepper and
thyme elements infuse the full-bodied cherry fruit with
just the right amount of herbal complexity, while the
tannins turn silky-textured on the finish. Drink now–
2020, and possibly beyond. United Estates Wine Imports, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $40
Domaine Monpertuis 2010 Châteauneufdu-Pape. Prototypical Châteauneuf-du-Pape,
from its textbook aromas of leather, spice and black
cherries to its ample body and supple tannins. It’s
creamy in texture but doesn’t show any excess weight,
just a lovely expression of cherries, suede, chocolate and
a subtle touch of dried spices on the long finish. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $44
93
Domaine Monpertuis 2010 Secret de Gabriel (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). The blackberry and black cherry fruit of this wine is bold, fresh
and almost exaggerated in style, with bright acids that
give it a crunchy feel. It’s full bodied and richly textured—more impressive than hedonistic at this point in
time. Try it after 2018. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
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Domaine Isabel Ferrando 2010 Colombis (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Despite being
aged in used barrels, this does show some oaky notes,
but they’re well balanced by bushels of black cherry fruit. It’s lush, creamy and harmonious, with a long
finish and up to 10 years of longevity. Daniel Johnnes
Wines. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
Domaine le Clos du Caillou 2010 Les
Safres (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Cedary but
not objectionably so, with deep, intense black cherry
fruit that flows to the fore. The mouthfeel falls somewhere sublime between velvet and silk, with some savory,
slightly meaty notes on the lengthy finish. Drink now–
2020+. Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates,
Dionysos Imports, North Berkeley Imports. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
93
Château de la Font du Loup 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This wine—a classically
styled blend of 65% Grenache and 20% Syrah, with the
remainder being Mourvèdre and Cinsault—bursts with
intoxicating aromas of potpourri and ripe cherries. The
tannins are soft, giving it a lush, creamy mouthfeel and
a delicate finish that still retains a sense of power. AHD
Vintners. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $49
Bosquet des Papes 2010 Tradition (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This isn’t the biggest or
richest Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but it has soaring aromas
of garrigue and cherries, plenty of intensity and a firm
structure. It’s powerful, long and complex. Drink 2015–
2025. Wines of France. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $46
Clos Saint Michel 2010 Châteauneuf-duPape. Full-bodied and complex, this is a very
drinkable Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Balanced and velvety rather than overly ripe or rich, it artfully combines
cherry and garrigue notes. Drink it over the next several
years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
92
Domaine Chante-Perdrix 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Cherry, coffee and vanilla notes mark the bouquet, while the flavors follow
in a similar vein, all dark cherry and mocha. It’s lush
in texture, with a long, velvety finish. Purist might call
it a bit oaky, but it’s delicious nonetheless. Drink now–
2018. Imported by Classic Wine Imports, Noble Wine,
Touton Selections, Country Vintner, Purveyor of Fine
Wines. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
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Domaine de Nalys 2010 Châteauneuf-duPape. Bright red cherry fruit leads the way in
this slightly high-toned wine. Red peppercorns make an
appearance, as do piny, herbal notes that add welcome
complexity. Crisply structured, with several years of aging capacity. Frank-Lin International. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $39
92
Domaine Pierre Usseglio et Fils 2010
Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Featuring bright,
spicy red-fruit aromas, this is an exciting wine just to
smell. Add in flavors of raspberry and cream, a lush texture, ample weight and a long-spice-driven finish, and
you’ve got the whole package, at a realistic price. So
ready and easy to drink now, it’s reasonable to question
its ageability, but on the other hand, why wait? Wines of
France. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $48
91
Château La Nerthe 2010 Châteauneufdu-Pape. The 2010 La Nerthe is a top vintage
of this wine, which typically includes a decent proportion of Mourvèdre. It’s spicy and plummy in style, with
notes of cinnamon and clove that add welcome complexity to the dark fruit. Drink it over the next 10 or
more years. Pasternak Wine Imports. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
91
Clos Saint Michel 2010 Cuvée Réservée
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Scents of bitter almond and black cherry mark the nose, while the palate displays ample weight and a lush creaminess. It’s a
broad wine, yet doesn’t express a ton of fruit, relying
more on weight and texture to make an impression.
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
91
Domaine de Beaurenard 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Garrigue and cherries on
the nose, with similar flavors and a touch of chocolate
that comes through on the palate. This is full bodied and
firmly tannic, but should evolve relatively quickly. Drink
2015–2023. Citadel Trading. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $45
91
La Bastide Saint Dominique 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This wine boasts a lifted, briary overtone to its aromas of bright Maraschino
cherries. The red fruit is finely delineated and crisply
focused, yet the tannins are supple and approachable.
Cinnamon and clove notes add complexity to the long
finish. Drink now–2022. Simonin N Cellars. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
90
Clos Saint Michel 2010 Cuvée Spéciale
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This is a very rich,
weighty wine, broad on the palate and creamy in texture, with some dark plum flavors but not a lot of lift.
Milk chocolate and mocha notes linger on the finish.
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
90
Domaine de la Côte de l’Ange 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It’s not the biggest-bodied Châteaubeuf-du-Pape, but it is charming, displaying
a welcome blend of raspberries, Mourvèdre-like funki-
ness and dark chocolate. The texture is lush, the feel
warm and welcoming. Perfect for near-term drinking.
Wines of France. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $42
90
Domaine de Saint Paul 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This full-bodied, elegantly supple wine features a dramatic texture that gently
coats the mouth, while the flavors are dark and understated, more along the lines of mocha and baking spices
than brightly focused fruit. Drink it over the next few
years. Serge Doré Selections. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $55
90
Domaine du Grand Tinel 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. A consistently reliable
producer, Grand Tinel has fashioned a flashy, attractive
2010 seemingly destined for early drinking. Black cherry and plum fruit rules, while the texture is creamy and
supple enough to make it instantly approachable. Drink
it over the next few years. Serge Doré Selections. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $60
90
Domaine Giraud 2010 Tradition (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). An array of berry fruit
is topped with slightly briary, leafy elements. The tannins are ripe to the point of creaminess, giving this solid performer a sense of warmth and lushness. Drink it
over the next several years while waiting for some of
the more structured cuvées to mature. European Cellars. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $52
90
E. Guigal 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Guigal’s 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a warm,
full-bodied rendering of the appellation, with pronounced notes of clove on the nose, along with hints of
cinnamon, cracked pepper and leather. Chocolate and
plum mark the palate, while the finish is soft and velvety
in texture. It’s ready to drink now. Vintus LLC. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
89
Domaine La Consonnière 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This is a bit tarry at first,
but gradually opens up to reveal slightly herbal fruit
notes of cassis and hints of olive and tomato—very Provençal. It’s silky on the finish, so it’s easy to drink now
and over the next 5–6 years. Wines of France. —J.C.
abv: NA
Price: $43
89
J.V. Fleury 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
This is rather fresh in style for a 2009 from the
Southern Rhône, with bold cherry and chocolate notes,
reasonably crisp acids and softly dusty tannins. That
said, it’s a mouth-filling wine, but one that’s harmonious and easy to drink. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits.
—J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
beaujolais
morgon
90
Jean-Claude Debeaune 2011 Belles
Grives (Morgon). This is a powerful, solid
wine with dense black fruits and firm tannins. It offers the weight of Morgon while also keeping a forward
fruitiness. The wine is likely to need aging over 2–3
years. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
90
Jean-Claude Debeaune 2011 Domaine
de la Chaponne (Morgon). Rich and ripe
with great plum and black cherry fruits, this is a powerful wine, showing the structure inherent in good Morgon. The fruits, acidity and tannins are serious, promising good aging over 2–3 years. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Mont Chavy (Morgon). Cherry fruits and
firm tannins band well together in this rich wine. It offers spice from light wood aging, a touch of banana, and
full forward fruitiness. The structure suggests it needs
to age for a year. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
brouilly
87
Jean-Claude Debeaune 2011 Château
de Nervers (Brouilly). Ripe, with jammy red
fruits, this is an attractively fruity wine. It has maraschino cherry flavors, intertwined with acidity to give structure, a fresh character and soft tannins. Drink this year.
Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
87
Jean-Claude Debeaune 2011 Château
la Perrière (Brouilly). While Brouilly is one
of the lighter of the Beaujolais crus, it still is a step up
from Villages, as this ripe wine shows. With weight and
some tannins, it promises moderate aging while also offering a delicious cherry profile drinking now. Saranty
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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des Nazins (Brouilly). This is a firmly structured wine with a distinct tannic character to go with
austere, mineral fruits. The wine is on the sour side,
making it hard to love, although some juiciness does
show through at the end. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
other cru
beaujolais
90
Georges Duboeuf 2011 Clef du Bief
(Moulin-à-Vent). Big, bold and tannic, this
is powerful Gamay from La Tour du Bief vineyard in
Juliénas. It has weight, and a concentrated texture that
bodes well for the wine’s future. Along with this structure are the fragrant black and red currant fruits, al-
ready delicious to drink. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
90
Henry Fessy 2011 Château des Labourons (Fleurie). For full review see page 7.
Cellar Selection.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
89
Georges Duboeuf 2011 Oak-Aged
(Moulin-à-Vent). A step up from Sélection in
the Moulin-à-Vent range from Duboeuf, this wine has
been aged in oak for six months. The result is a ripe,
smoothly textured wine, its cherry fruits offering an attractive smoky character. It could do with a year, even
two, for aging. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
89
Jean-Claude Debeaune 2011 Clos des
Quatre Vents (Fleurie). Firm and structured,
this shows the serious side of Fleurie. It has tense tannins as well as red fruits that are developing a juicy character. With its mineral texture, it needs at least a year to
age. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Georges Duboeuf 2011 Château de Juliénas (Juliénas). Red fruits are the focus here.
What gives the wine an extra dimension is the firmer,
youthful, tannic texture. This gives a strong sense of
structure to the attractive cherry flavors. Keep for a year
at least. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Georges Duboeuf 2011 Château des
Capitans (Juliénas). You can taste the wood
in this red, fruity wine. It gives a spicy character to the
cherries and red currants, adding both complexity and
the potential for aging. The end shows the fresh acidity of the year. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
87
Georges Duboeuf 2011 Sélection (SaintAmour). One of the smallest crus, SaintAmour produces firm and structured wines. This Sélection shows both rich black fruit and solid tannins
that are typical. Over the next six months, it’s likely the
fruitiness will become more dominant. Deutsch Family
Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
other beaujolais
86
Jean-Claude Debeaune 2011 BeaujolaisVillages. This is a wine with some tannic structure adding richness and shape to its red fruit character. Ripe cherries and red currants dominate, laced with
acidity. It’s ready to drink, but could improve over another year. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
85
Georges Duboeuf 2011
Sélection
(Beaujolais-Villages). A jolly, fruity wine—
very Beaujolais—with a touch of bananas to go with
cherry flavors and soft tannins. Ready to drink, and best
served slightly chilled. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
85
Pignard (Beaujolais). Ripe and jammy, this
is bright Beaujolais. It’s full of sweet fruits, soft tannins
and lively acidity. At the end, the wine shows delicious
cherries and just a touch of structure. Saranty Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
84
Jean-Claude Debeaune 2011 Beaujolais.
The Beaujolais appellation is the source of most
Nouveau. But it also produces attractively fruity wines,
full of cherries, that can be drunk over the two years
following the harvest. Enjoy this wine this year. Saranty
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
white burgundy
grands crus
99
Domaine Laflaive 2010 Bâtard-Montrachet. In this great year for white Burgundy,
Bâtard-Montrachet shines out as the epitome of balance between superb fruit and intense mineral and terroir characters. Its subtle touch of wood highlights the
unctuous surface texture while just hinting at the steel
sharpness of the structure beneath. Age this superb
wine for at least 10 years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $560
wood-aging, spice and a firm structure indicate keeping
this wine for six years. Blasons de Bourgogne Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $90
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Domaine Luc et Lise Pavelot 2011
Corton-Charlemagne. A powerful wine, still
closed. It has great potential with delicious acidity at the
same time as depth of flavor complexity. This is a wine
for the long-term, so give it at least seven years. Joli Vin.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $105
94
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2011 CortonCharlemagne. Big and rich, this is a broad,
open version of Corton-Charlemagne, a powerhouse of
ripe white and yellow fruits. It seems initially without
enough depth, a product of its youth, then gradually the
ripe structure shows through, promising aging over 6–7
years. Turquoise Life. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $305
94
La Chablisienne 2010 Les Preuses
Grand Cru (Chablis). Serious Chablis, fullbodied and complex. The structure is rich, layering
chewy minerality with pure acidity over green and white
fruits. The wine opens slowly, unfolding its ripeness and
structure. Age for five years and more. Blasons de Bourgogne Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $70
chablis
92
La Chablisienne 2011 Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). Lightly touched by wood,
this is a crisp, spice- and apricot-flavored wine. It has a
lively feel, laced with acidity and tautly structured. With
its mineral texture and young fruitiness, it needs to age
for 3–4 years. Blasons de Bourgogne Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $33
92
La Chablisienne 2011 Mont de Milieu
Premier Cru (Chablis). This rich, generous
wine, always a favorite Premier Cru, offers full-bodied
character. With yellow stone fruits, acidity that cuts
through the rich texture and a light creaminess, it will
age for 3–5 years. Blasons de Bourgogne Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
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90
Henry Fessy 2011 Château des Reyssiers (Régnié). This is a bright and youthful
wine, with red plum and cherry fruits that are right up
front, laced with acidity and given just the right punch
and tannins. This attractive wine can age, but can be
drunk now. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
du Riaz (Côte de Brouilly). A wine with
fresh, bright, red cherry and black currant fruits along
with a tight tannic edge that speaks of the granite soil.
It’s likely to age over the next year. Saranty Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Domaine des Croix 2011 Corton-
Charlemagne. A dry, mineral wine, hiding
its potential richness. Flavors of ripe pears and yellow
fruits are matched by lime acidity. The wine has considerable power and a dense character, showing the
immense density that comes from this vineyard. Age
for 4–6 years and more. Becky Wasserman Selections.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $160
La Chablisienne 2010 Château Grenouilles Grand Cru (Chablis). Château
Grenouilles is a parcel within the Grenouilles Grand
Cru, a monopoly of the La Chablisienne cooperative.
The wine is always impressive. It has weight, richness,
concentration and considerable potential. Yellow fruits,
La Chablisienne 2011 Côte de Lechet
Premier Cru (Chablis). The small Côte de
Lechet Premier Cru is on the south side of the Serein
valley. With its northerly exposure, it produces cool,
structured wines, very crisp like this, with a delicious
green character. Acidity and steeliness add to the texture. Blasons de Bourgogne Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $32
Domaine Corine Perchaud 2010 Vaucoupin Premier Cru (Chablis). A wine that
is tight, structured while rich. That gives a mineral grittiness as well as more tropical and wood aging flavors.
Together, the tastes merge into a complex, full-bodied
WineMag.com | 55
buyingguide
wine that ends with just the right amount of acidity. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
88
Domaine Corine Perchaud 2010 Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). This is a
ripe wine, full of rich tropical fruits as well as the more
typical Chablis acidity and steel. It feels broad, layering
the crispness and citrus with a tangy texture. Keep this
wine for at least a year. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $37
85
Domaine Corine Perchaud 2010 Chablis.
A simple Chardonnay, full in the mouth, spoiled
by touches of sulphur. The wine should develop and
bring out the ripe peach flavors that are lying beneath
the surface. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
other côte de nuits
wines
91
Domaine Marc Roy 2011 Les Champs
Perdrix (Marsannay). Flint and peach aromas give a wine that is steely as well as boasting flowery
fruits, bright pears and acidity along with a structured,
mineral feel. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $37
88
Manuel Olivier 2010 Chardonnay (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits). A deliciously creamy wine, shining with apple and grapefruit
flavors. The wine is light, bright, softly textured and
hinting at wood aging, while displaying a more steely
line of tight acidity at the end. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $23
pernand-vergelesses
92
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2011
Creux de la Net Premier Cru (Pernand-
Vergelesses). The cool character of Pernand is well
illustrated in this steely wine. It’s fruit character is enhanced by a fine modicum of wood to give a fresh yet
full-bodied character. The wine needs aging over at least
five years. Turquoise Life. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $65
91
Sous Frétille Premier Cru (Pernand-
Vergelesses). This is already a delicious wine. Young,
fragrant fruits bring acidity and a dense sense of structure. The aftertaste shows the spice from wood aging.
Joli Vin. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
90
Pernand-Vergelesses. This is a beautifully rounded wine with just a hint of green fruits. There
is spice from the wood, adding extra dimension, along
with apple acidity. Minerality gives texture at the end.
Joli Vin. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $36
meursault
93
Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet 2011 Le
Tesson (Meursault). All the elements are
here in this finely made, well balanced wine. It’s fruity
and fresh with peach and citrus flavors already well integrated and combined with a fine depth of structure and
texture. The after taste brings out the freshness. Rare
Wine Company. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $89
93
Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet 2011 Les
Chevalières (Meursault). From very stony
soil, this wine has a tense structure. It is nervy, the citrus
and white fruits striated with minerality. It’s certainly a
fine wine and one for aging over at least five years. Rare
Wine Company. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $79
95
Domaine Leflaive 2010 Les Pucelles Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). A rich
wine, full and fruity up front, then opening up into a
much more mineral, textured character. It is a great explosion of citrus, pear and green apple, the wood aging
showing with subtlety. It’s a wine for aging, complex and
tight at the end. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $303
92
Domaine Leflaive 2010 Chardonnay (Puligny-Montrachet). The delicious acidity
of the vintage is well reflected in this crisp, pure-fruit
wine, with its citrus and orange peel flavors. The wine
is just brushed with wood flavors and hints of honey,
finishing bright while ripe. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $116
beaune
92
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91
pouilly-fuissé
Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet 2011 Les
Gruyaches (Meursault). From the lower
portion of Meursault Charmes, but not a premier cru.
There is great concentration here from 86 year-old
vines, with elegant structure, acidity and a touch of butter and vanilla from the wood to smooth it. Full in the
mouth, it’s a ripe wine. Rare Wine Company. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $79
Manuel Olivier 2010 Premier Cru (Meursault). A blend from different small premier
cru parcels, the wine has weight and richness. It’s also
driven by acidity and crisp citrus fruits that balance the
riper yellow fruit and wood flavors. It should age for
at least three years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine
Partners. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $77
88
Manuel Olivier 2010 Meursault. With a
definite wood aging character, the wine is ripe
and rounded. It also has an attractively steely minerality
that gives texture to the ripe pear and peach flavors. The
aftertaste is more citrus. Pierre Courdurie Selections/
Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $54
puligny-montrachet
95
Domaine Leflaive 2010 Clavoillon Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). A taut,
nervy, mineral-driven wine, this has intense citrus and
grapefruit flavors, lemon grass spice and just the merest
hint of wood. It’s the structure that gives this impressive wine such power, and a steely edge that will need at
least 6–10 years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $158
95
Domaine Leflaive 2010 Les Combettes
Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). With
its structured, mineral character, this is a serious, ageworthy wine. It has a sense of coiled power and steel
and a dense, complex texture that brings out both its
ripe, pure fruit character and its intensity. Age this wine
for at least 5–8 years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $238
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2011 Les
Reversées Premier Cru (Beaune). This is
a richly fruity wine, its pear and apple flavors rounded
out with white peach. It has acidity that balances the
ripeness and brings out the complex mineral structure.
A fine wine that will benefit from 4–5 years’ aging. Turquoise Life. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $84
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des Préauds (Pouilly-Fuissé). One of the
single vineyard wines produced by Jean-Claude Debeaune, this textured, mineral and steely selection
shows the complex side of Pouilly Fuissé. It has concentration, with a strong peach, citrus and pineapple fruit
character. Both fruit and texture suggest keeping this
wine for at least two years. Saranty Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
90
Georges Duboeuf 2011 Clos Reyssié
(Pouilly-Fuissé). A rich Pouilly Fuissé, concentrating on ripe tropical fruits and a rounded structure. The wine has weight, richness and a good density.
With all these complex characters, it’s a wine that needs
to age over at least three years. Deutsch Family Wine &
Spirits. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
89
Georges Duboeuf 2011 Emile Beranger
(Pouilly-Fuissé). This is a fresh wine that also
has a strong sense of structure. It’s textured with white
fruits coming through a nervy acidity and minerality.
Hints of wood are tantalizing and round the wine out at
the end. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Jean-Claude Debeaune 2011 Special Selection (Pouilly-Fuissé). A ripe, full, fruity
wine, this has light hints of vanilla from wood aging.
These go with the peach and apricot flavors to create a
generous wine that is already delicious but could age for
another year. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
acter that offers attractive drinking now. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Louis Galud 2011 Pouilly-Fuissé. Produced by Georges Duboeuf under a separate
brand name, this is an attractive, fruity wine. It has a
ripe, tropical and citrus character that brings out fragrant aromas and flavors. While it’s not for much aging,
it is a wine with a steely edge that could mature over the
next few months. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
86
Jean-Claude Debeaune 2011 Les Galopières (Pouilly-Fuissé). A full, rather fat
wine, this has vanilla, apricot fruits and a ripe overall
feel. It’s missing structure and a sense of more granular
texture. Not for aging. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
86
Michel Dutour 2011 La Roche (PouillyFuissé). This is a young, perfumed wine with
honey, pear and melon flavors. Along with its crisp
lemon edge, there is a more mineral, tangy, aftertaste,
a feeling of steel on the tongue. Stacole Fine Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
other mâconnais
wines
88
Cave de Lugny 2011 La Carte (MâconLugny). This is a single vineyard wine, richly
textured and ripe. It shows the lively acidity of the vintage along with a warm feel that brings out peaches and
green plums. Age for a couple of years or drink now.
Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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Cave de Lugny 2010 Les Beluses
(Mâcon-Chardonnay). A clean, clear, fruity
wine with a fine touch of citrus, some vanilla and a light
texture. This is delicious, early-drinking Chardonnay.
Viceroy Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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Cave de Lugny 2011 Les Charmes
(Mâcon-Lugny). Gentle and open, this is a
ripe, apricot flavored wine. It has light acidity, its pleasure coming from the generous, full texture. It’s ready to
drink now. Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Domaine Talmard 2011 (Mâcon-Chardonnay). This is a warm, honey- and appleflavored wine. It’s fresh and full in the mouth with tight
mineral acidity. It could well age a year or two, but is
ready to drink now. Vintus LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
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Georges Duboeuf 2011 Domaine de la
Bâtie (Saint-Véran). Textured, mineral wine,
with hints of butter and caramel. These go with the ripe
peach and pear fruits, offering a gentle, rounded char-
Saint-Martin (Saint-Véran). Soft, peach
fruits abound in this simple and attractive wine. It’s fragrant and fruity, with a light texture and fresh acidity at
the end. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
84
Cave de Lugny 2012 Florières (MâconVillages). A very soft, fruity wine, with a gentle, creamy texture and light acidity. It’s fresh with vanilla and pear flavors, and ready to drink. Pasternak Wine
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
bourgogne aligoté
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Domaine Luc et Lise Pavelot 2011 Bourgogne Aligoté. Pernand Vergelesses has a
long tradition of Aligoté. The fruit in this wine is crisp
and fresh, but creamy textured with an attractive lime
character. White fruits show through at the end. Joli
Vin. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $21
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Manuel Olivier 2010 Vieilles Vignes
(Bourgogne Aligoté). With just that extra
touch of concentration from old vines, this is a ripe, full
and creamy wine, its acidity rounded out and given extra depth from the rich fruits. It has some weight and
density at the end. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine
Partners. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
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Manuel Olivier 2010 Bourgogne Aligoté.
Manuel Olivier has an obvious interest in this
lesser-known white grape. And with this wine— fresh,
crisp, lively—he brings out all the green apple and
bright, nervy acidity. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine
Partners. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
crémant de
bourgogne
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Manuel Olivier NV Brut Rosé (Crémant
de Bourgogne). Made 100% from Pinot
Noir, this delicious rosé has fine red fruits, a great clean
streak of acidity and a light touch of tannin to give structure. Very pure, very fresh. Pierre Courdurie Selections/
Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
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Manuel Olivier NV Brut (Crémant de
Bourgogne). Fragrant and crisp, this is a lively blend in which the Aligoté gives a great cut of acidity.
The wine does have some weight as well, rounded at the
end with the bright aftertaste. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
red burgundy
grands crus
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair 2010 La
Romanée. A superb wine from a great year,
this is powerful and structured, with great acidity and
solid, pronounced fruits. La Romanée is a small vineyard, wholly owned by Liger-Belair, next to RomanéeConti. The wine is rich, spicy and very complex, with
black fruits welling up from its depth. With great structure, it brings together opulent Pinot Noir fruits with
firm, dense tannins with immense aging potential.
Grand Cru Selection. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $2,500
95
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair 2011 La
Romanée. A monopoly of the domaine, La
Romanée lies just up the slope from Romanée-Conti.
It’s already a beautiful wine, with its velvet tannins well
integrated with the ripe berry fruits. Its core is dry and
structured, with the fruits cushioning around it. Grand
Cru Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
95
François Bertheau 2011 Bonnes-Mares.
From this powerful and structured vineyard
comes a powerful and structured wine. It’s very firm,
dry and solidly concentrated at the heart. There is also
a surge of rich, open fruitiness that complements the
fine acidity. It’s complex, perfumed and expressive. Age
for seven years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Domaine des Croix 2011 Corton Les
Grèves. Firm and solid with great swathes of
black fruits as well as dense tannins. Ripe fruits are a
major element of this concentrated wine. The wine has
power and a firm tannic core, and certainly needs aging
for seven years. Becky Wasserman Selections. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $132
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Domaine des Croix 2011 La Vigne au
Saint (Corton). A rich wine with great fruits
as well as structure. It has the weight and great concentration of a grand cru selection. Plum fruits and acidity
offer the potential for long aging. It’s powerful, while
also showing elegance. Age for 6–8 years. Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $129
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair 2011
Echézeaux. A big and powerful wine considering the lighter style found in many 2011s. It’s concentrated and dark, with black plums enveloping full and
ripe fruit. Weight, richness and perfume combine to
ensure long-term aging over six years and more. Grand
Cru Selection. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Domaine Luc et Lise Pavelot 2011 Corton. Still so young, the wine is tight at this stage.
It has dark stone fruits and dense tannins along with a
lightness of red berry fruits. Power and structure as well
WineMag.com | 57
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as a smoky character from 50% new wood aging. Joli
Vin. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $90
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Manuel Olivier 2010 Clos de Vougeot. A
powerful wine that brings out the structure and
tannins of this famous Grand Cru. It has weight, packed
black fruits and dryness at the center. With its fine acidity and sense of richness, it will need at least 7–8 years
for maturity. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $172
gevrey-chambertin
94
Domaine Marc Roy 2011 Cuvée Alexandrine (Gevrey-Chambertin). This wine has
great power and so much complexity, with layer upon
layer of fruit and structure. Black fruits give way to a
dry, firm end, promising considerable aging. Michael
Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $95
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Domaine Marc Roy 2011 Clos Prieur
(Gevrey-Chambertin). A fine and structured
wine with dark tannins and dry fruit, this wine has power, body and black fruits thrusting through the dryness.
A very complex wine from a single vineyard with great
potential. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $68
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Domaine Marc Roy 2011 Justice (GevreyChambertin). This is a serious, richly perfumed wine with dark tannins and a powerful Gevrey
feel. Flavors of bitter cherries run with acidity and a
dry core. The aftertaste is fresh while still firm. Michael
Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $68
93
François Bertheau 2011 Les Charmes
Premier Cru (Chambolle-Musigny). The
wine is certainly structured, but in this vintage it is more
about bright fruits and acidity. It shines with black berries and dark plums, and it’s very ripe and full in the
mouth. A dry core with great freshness at the end. Fruit
of the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Manuel Olivier 2010 Chambolle-Musigny.
While it does have some of the roundness of
Chambolle, the wine also has a dense structure that
comes from the vintage. Laced with the most delicious
acidity, this is a pure and fruity wine that will age well.
Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $62
90
François Bertheau 2011 Chambolle-
Musigny. This wine has great strawberry flavors with soft tannins and sweet fruits. It’s fragrant, delicate, and very pure in style, with just a hint of structure
and likely to age over the medium term. Fruit of the
Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Manuel Olivier 2010 Premier Cru (NuitsSt.-Georges). A blend of small parcels from
different premier crus, this is big and boldly structured
with the fruit to match it. Red plums and red currants
are partnered with a solid, dark structure. The palate
exhibits firm signs of wood aging, and finishes with both
acidity and some youthful bitterness. For aging over 5–6
years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $77
90
vosne-romanée
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Domaine Marc Roy 2011 Vieilles Vignes
(Gevrey-Chambertin). A very perfumed wine,
this is graceful with soft, fruity acids layered with smoky
tannins. Very beautiful. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
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Manuel Olivier 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin.
Concentrated and dense, this is a solid wine, full
of tannins as well as black plum and plum skin flavors. It
has massive character, with a very firm core, but maintains pure, ripe strawberry fruits as a balance. Pierre
Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $54
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chambolle-musigny
90
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2011 Au Domaine (Nuits-St.-Georges). The Aegerters
are based at Nuits-Saint-Georges and this wine comes
from their own vineyards. It’s only just starting out, as
proved by the tannins, but already there is a sense of
ripe black fruits, forward acidity and smokiness from
wood aging. It needs several years, keep for at least 5.
Turquoise Life. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $98
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair 2011 Aux
Cras Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges).
Already harmonious, this is a potentially opulent wine
with a dry core surrounded by ripe red cherry and berry
fruit. At the end, the spice adds a fuller note. Grand Cru
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
92
François Bertheau 2011 Les Amoureuses
(Chambolle-Musigny). This wine has great
fruitiness, soft tannins and generous, ripe red fruits,
while finishing dry. It’s a wine with the structure for aging while also packed with big red fruits. Keep for 4–6
years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
nuits-st.-georges
91
François Bertheau 2011 Premier Cru
(Chambolle-Musigny). A blend of four parcels, vinified together, this wine is rich and ripe with an
edge of tannins as well as already enjoyable fruit. The
structure only shows slowly, offering the potential that
this delicious wine will age over at least five years. Fruit
of the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair 2011 Aux
Reignots Premier Cru (Vosne-Romanée).
A solid, dark, structured wine with the added attraction
of beautifully perfumed fruit. It’s a classic, full in the
mouth explosion of red berries, followed by almost refreshing acidity, finishing with a much more tannic character. Grand Cru Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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ripe fruits still staying behind the structure. Give it at
least 5–6 years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $62
Manuel Olivier 2010 Les Damaudes
(Vosne-Romanée). Sourced from a small
parcel of vines surrounded by grand and premier crus,
this is powerful, solid and very structured. It’s dry, but
rich, and full of red plum and berry flavors. It’s definitely
a wine for aging, over at least six years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $74
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair 2011
La Colombière (Vosne-Romanée). Firm
in tannins, but bright with cherry fruits, this has lovely youthful acidity. Firmer tannins promise good aging
over the next 4–5 years. Grand Cru Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
90
Manuel Olivier 2010 Vosne-Romanée. A
powerful and concentrated wine, it shows firm
tannins, dark berry fruits and some austerity at this
young stage. The wine is dense and dry still, with the
Manuel Olivier 2010 Nuits-St.-Georges.
This is properly structured as befits a NuitsSaint-Georges, but also full of rich, powerful fruits. It’s
a solid wine packed with red plum and wild strawberry
fruit, although perhaps with too much wood aging for
its own good at this stage. That should soften over the
next 4–5 years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $54
other côte de nuits
wines
91
Manuel Olivier 2010 Morey-Saint-Denis.
This is a firmly structured wine that also has a
good balance of ripe black fruits. It’s concentrated, layering ripe acidity with a dry core of tannins. There’s
great potential here, but the wine that needs to age for
six years and more. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine
Partners. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $44
86
Manuel Olivier 2010 Vieilles Vignes Pinot
Noir (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits). This is a light wine, although one that preserves
the structure of the vintage. Between the firmer tannins, there are juicy red cherry and berry fruits. The
20-year old vines give a touch of concentration to the
solid structure. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $27
85
Manuel Olivier 2010 Pinot Noir (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits). Based in
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Manuel Olivier has made a specialty of the wines from the Hautes Côtes in the hills
behind the city. This is a light and fruity wine with freshness and some firm, dry tannins, although it’s ready to
drink now. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
pernand-vergelesses
93
Domaine Luc et Lise Pavelot 2011 Île
de Vergelesses Premier Cru (Pernand-
Vergelesses). This wine has a touch of chocolate as
well as a tight, tannic structure. Along with richness
and weight, the smoky wood character shows strongly.
Whole bunch fermentation gives greater extraction and
richness. Joli Vin. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
92
En Caradeux Premier Cru (Pernand-
Vergelesses). This is a rich wine that’s juicy and fruity.
It does have a firm structure with spice and wood, as
well as a fine complexity. From 60 year old vines, it has
great concentration and good potential over at leat five
years. Joli Vin. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $37
ed and structured wine with dark tannins and a dense
character. The wine is very solid, dark and powerful. It
comes from a cool, high elevation vineyard that gives as
much structure as fruit at this stage. Becky Wasserman
Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $66
93
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol 2011 Clos
des Mouches Premier Cru (Beaune). A
big, spicy wine, that’s very rich for the vintage with the
soft and round character of Beaune wines. Red fruits
mask the fact that there is also power and concentration
and a good aging potential over at least six years. Becky
Wasserman Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $87
volnay
94
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol 2011 Caillerets Premier Cru (Volnay). This is a concentrated, dark and very closed wine. It has a tight, nervy
character that allows you to feel the fruit and the texture
that comes from the limestone soil. This impressive,
ageworthy wine needs aging over six years and more.
Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $137
other côte de
beaune wines
92
Domaine des Croix 2011 Les Boutières
(Aloxe-Corton). This is a delicious wine already offering great ripe swathes of red fruits as well
as soft tannins. There is a warm feel to the wine with a
rounded texture and tannins that come through slowly,
promising positive development over 3–6 years. Becky
Wasserman Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $48
91
Manuel Olivier 2010 Aloxe-Corton. Initially austere, this is a wine that needs to age.
Its fruit is quite present though, ready to draw out the
power of an Aloxe-Corton. Solidly based and firmly tannic, it requires 5–6 years to round out. Pierre Courdurie
Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $49
90
Domaine des Croix 2011 Beaune. A structured wine, packed with red fruits and delightful acidity. There is a core of dark tannin and a solid
structure as well as the bright freshness at the end. Because it has this structure, it’s worth aging for 4–5 years.
abv: 13%
Price: $42
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beaune premier cru
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol 2011 Santenots Premier Cru (Volnay). This wine has
a gamy character with spicy tannins. It is rich and succulent with black fruits, but has an earthy texture and is
solid and powerful. It brings out both the terroir and the
potential richness of a Volnay. For aging over seven years.
Becky Wasserman Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $77
94
Domaine des Croix 2011 Bressandes
Premier Cru (Beaune). A fine, mineral,
structured wine with a very dry, solid core. Juicy red
fruits offer a hint for its future ripeness. It has the freshness of the vintage that shows through at the end of this
chunky wine. Age for 5–7 years. Becky Wasserman Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $68
93
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Pernand-Vergelesses. This is a firm style
of wine, showing the mineral character of PernandVerglesses reds. The wine has a nervy, almost herbal
profile, showing red currants and considerable acidity.
Joli Vin. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
Domaine des Croix 2011 Cent Vignes
Premier Cru (Beaune). This is structured
and rich with ripe fruits as well as some firm tannins.
There’s a cool feel to it, mineral in texture with a juicy
finish. The tannins give an ageworthy character to the
wine, so age for at least six years. Becky Wasserman Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $54
93
Domaine des Croix 2011 Les Pertuisots
Premier Cru (Beaune). This is a concentrat-
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol 2011 Roncerets Premier Cru (Volnay). Tight blackberry and blueberry flavors give this wine a stalky, fruity
character at the start. It’s still very young, very textured,
mineral and chewy. Underneath there is a more juicy
fruit with a touch of herbal acidity at the end. Becky
abv: 13%
Price: $97
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol 2011 En
Chevret Premier Cru (Volnay). This is a
structured wine with both rich black fruits, and a dry
core. It has a mineral texture and is chewy and dense. At
the same time, the wine has weight and a dark, brooding
sense of aging potential. Give it 5–6 years. Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $97
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol 2011 Clos
des Angles Premier Cru (Volnay). A bright
and fruity wine, this is rich with juicy elegance. It’s all
fruit at this stage, the tannins hiding behind the warm,
rounded exterior. It’s a wine for medium-term aging.
abv: 13%
Price: $77
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2010 Les
Gourmandes (Chorey-lès-Beaune). Chorey-lès-Beaune, on the plain just north of Beaune, can
offer—as here—good value for Burgundy. This wine,
still showing some young austerity, has the potential to
develop into a bold, fruity selection that will always have
a firmer structured edge. Turquoise Life. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $43
Manuel Olivier 2010 Premier Cru (Pommard). There is a sense of extraction and long
wood aging with this bitter, chocolate-flavored wine.
The palate has a dark plum-skin fruit character and a
dry, hard-edged core. It will need at least six years to mature. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $71
Domaine Poulleau Père et Fils 2011
Les Mondes Rondes (Côte de Beaune).
Smooth and ripe, a classic Beaune wine that brings out
rich strawberry fruits, a touch of bitter coffee, and the
intense acidity of the vintage. It’s worth aging for 2–3
years. Blue Coast International. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2010 Clos
Roussots Premier Cru (Maranges). A rich
and fruity wine with dense cherry and strawberry fruits
and a dry, tannic structure. It has a tough edge that suggests aging potential while also bringing out a ripe character from this southernmost appellation in the Côte
d’Or. Turquoise Life. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $46
88
Manuel Olivier 2010 Pommard. This is an
upright, firm wine that’s solidly based around
dense tannins as well as ripe red fruits. It has a very dry
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bourgogne
Michele Chiarlo 2011 Le Marne (Gavi).
Crisp and light with pretty mineral dustings behind the ripe peach and melon aromas, this Gavi shows
a full and generous style. Its nicest quality is that it offers both softness in the mouth and elegance on the
bouquet. Kobrand. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
90
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core giving a concentrated texture that means the wine
needs to age. Give it 4–5 years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $49
Domaine des Croix 2011 Pinot Noir
(Bourgogne). For a Bourgogne Rouge, this
is a serious wine with firm tannins as well as attractive
strawberry fruits. It’s juicy, perfumed and rich. Becky
abv: 13%
Price: $34
88
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol 2011 Héritiers Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). From a vineyard planted in 1922 close to Pommard, this is a perfumed wine, packed with red fruits, freshness and a
strong sense of structure from old vines. Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
86
Louis Latour 2011 Bourgogne Gamay.
This is a new brand from a recently-created appellation for parts of Beaujolais. The wine has recognizable red cherry fruits, soft tannins and a juicy, slightly
dusty texture. Ready to drink. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
85
Domaine Poulleau Père et Fils 2011 Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). There’s a kick of dry
tannin behind this otherwise ripe wine. Raspberry flavors, red plum skins and a some bitterness add fruit and
structure. It needs a year to soften out. Blue Coast International. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
85
Manuel Olivier 2010 Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). A lightly perfumed wine, this is soft
with warm strawberry flavors. The acidity and texture
play a supporting role in this ripe, light-bodied wine.
Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
85
Mommessin 2011 Le Clé Saint-Pierre Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). A light, perfumed
wine with soft tannins and bitter cherry fruits. There is
an earthy edge here, and while the wine has brisk acidity, there’s an easy texture. It’s ready to drink. Boisset
Family Estates. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
piedmont whites
gavi
88
Coppo 2011 La Rocca (Gavi). Coppo’s
beautiful La Rocca Gavi is precisely the kind of
wine you’ll want to serve with smoked salmon, grilled
tuna or fresh vegetables. There’s a crisp, flinty quality
that gives the wine a bright and lively feel followed by
tones of citrus and honeydew melon. Folio Fine Wine
Partners. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
Cascina La Ghersa 2010 Il Poggio (Gavi).
From the estate of Massimo Pastura, this pretty
Cortese-based white opens with floral notes of honeysuckle and yellow rose backed by citrus, melon and drying mineral. There’s a waxy feel in the mouth followed
by balanced acidity. Epic Wines. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
86
Natale Verga 2012 Poggio dei Vigneti
(Gavi). Bright and clean with drying mineral
nuances at the back of citrus and peach, this pretty Gavi
would make for a great aperitif choice. The wine is crisp
and lively with a fresh fruit quality on the close. Riviera
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
86
Natale Verga 2012 Verga Collection
(Gavi). Made from Cortese grapes from northern Italy, this bright and easy white wine offers drying
mineral notes that frame a solid core of yellow fruit and
citrus. The wine is light, lean and washes down beautifully. Jandell Selections. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
langhe
90
Le Vigne di Ca’ Nova 2008 Varenne Chardonnay (Langhe). Named after one of the
fastest race horses to compete in Italy, Varenne is a tight
and complex expression of Chardonnay with bright fruit
tones and peach followed by cooling acidity and creamy
thickness. A light passage in oak gives it extra staying
power on the finish. Wine Wine Situation LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
89
Giacomo Vico 2009 Chardonnay (Langhe). This is a lovely and purely Italian expression of Chardonnay that shows generous fruit and peach
tones followed by chalky white mineral and a touch of
cinnamon spice. The cool climate of Piedmont in northern Italy gives the wine an extra touch of freshness that
really does the trick. Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
88
Giacomo Vico 2010 Chardonnay (Langhe). It’s hard not to be a big fan of Giacomo
Vico’s beautiful Chardonnay. The wine marries the coolclimate characteristics of the Langhe (Piedmont) with a
round, opulent and rich winemaking style. You’ll recognize loads of yellow fruit and rose with a playful touch
of sweet vanilla. Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
87
Elvio Cogno 2011 Anas-Cëtta Nascetta
(Langhe). Nascetta is the Italian white wine of
the moment and it makes its roots in the Piedmont region of northern Italy. This expression is aged (30%) in
oak and shows grand structure and endurance backed
by melon, peach and crushed mineral. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $33
87
Parusso 2009 Bricco Rovella Sauvignon
(Langhe). Sauvignon is not a commonly planted variety in the Langhe (Piedmont), but Parusso has
decided to experiment with it anyway. The results are
crisp and light with pretty tones of citrus, sage and
green melon. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
86
Livio Voghera 2010 Arneis (Langhe). A bit
closed at first, this off-gold Arneis offers aromas
of stone fruit, yellow rose and honey with a touch of
drying mineral at the back. The mouthfeel is smooth
and crisp with a touch of blanched almond on the finish.
Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
85
Punset 2011 Arneis (Langhe). Part of Italy’s Vino Naturale movement, this organicallyfarmed Arneis opens with a pretty hay color and subtle aromas of peach, pear and Golden Delicious apple.
Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
roero arneis
88
Mauro Sebaste 2011 Roero Arneis. Here’s
a great Roero Arneis from northern Italy that
offers so much more personality and regional character
than your average Italian white. Fresh citrus and fruit
tones are backed by dusty mineral shadings that give
the wine a smooth and polished feel. Saranty Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
87
Giacosa Fratelli 2011 Roero Arneis.
Fresh, easy and lemony with a touch of drying
talc powder at the back, this is a refreshing white to pair
with any sort of fresh Mediterranean seafood from fried
calamari to baccalà. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
monferrato
87
Cascina La Ghersa 2009 Sivoy (Monferrato). This pretty white wine from northern Italy opens with an ashy, mineral feel and segues to aromas of candied fruit, peach and citrus. It is nearing the
end of its drinking window so don’t bother putting this
bottle aside. Epic Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
87
Arbiola 2011 Ninètte (Monferrato Bianco). Here’s a refreshing blend of Sauvignon
Blanc (80%) and Chardonnay that offers medium structure and thickness in the mouth and surprisingly restrained aromas despite the high percentage of one of
the world’s most aromatic varieties. In fact, the wine
seems to strive for balance between its smooth mouth-
feel and its aromas of apple, melon and white peach.
Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
sweet peach syrup. The mouthfeel is creamy rich and
soft. Epic Wines. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $16
piedmont
86
92
Coppo 2006 Riserva della Famiglia Chardonnay (Piedmont). Here’s a huge expression of Chardonnay that bursts at the seams in terms
of its peach, apricot, exotic fruit and buttered almond
intensity. In the mouth, this white wine is extra creamy
and smooth and the finish is long, silky and vibrant. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $170
91
Coppo 2007 Monteriolo Chardonnay
(Piedmont). Here is a gorgeous expression of
Chardonnay that opens with creamy notes of almond
butter and exotic fruit followed by pineapple and apricot. This northern Italian white is extra supple and soft
on the finish and demands a pairing with steamed lobster and butter sauce. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $60
88
Coppo 2010 Costebianche Chardonnay
(Piedmont). Costebianche refers to the calcium-rich soils in the vineyards of this estate in Piedmont,
northern Italy. On those soils, this elegant Chardonnay
delivers dusty notes of crushed mineral, white peach, almond skin and honey. In the mouth, the wine is fine and
silky. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
88
Tenuta Olim Bauda 2008 I Boschi Chardonnay (Piedmont). This is a fragrant and
generous Chardonnay from Piedmont that shows bright
tones of melon, exotic fruit and pineapple. The wine is
rich and smooth in the mouth and grips the palate in a
very satisfactory manner. Admiralty Beverage. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
moscato
87
Bera 2011 Su Reimond (Moscato d’Asti).
Su Reimond is a soft and plush dessert wine
with creamy foam, lemony mousse and loads of fragrant
peach blossom, honey and sweet almond on the bouquet. You’ll love the intensity but don’t wait to drink this
Moscato d’Asti: It has a short life ahead. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $NA
87
Coppo 2011 Moncalvina (Moscato
d’Asti). This is a tasty and generous Moscato
d’Asti that opens with plush aromas of honey, peach syrup, white flower and fragrant exotic fruit. There’s a nice
sensation of fullness and creaminess in the mouth that is
backed by the foamy effervescence of this sparkling dessert wine. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $15
87
Ghione 2012 Piccole Gioie (Moscato
d’Asti). Piccole Giole, or “little joys,” is a delightful Moscato d’Asti that offers fragrant tones of tangerine blossom, honey, white flower, dried sage and
Arbiola 2011 Ferlingot (Moscato d’Asti).
Musky notes of dried sage and white flower
are followed by aromas of white peach and almond
skin. There’s a touch of white pepper on the close that
gives the wine extra lift and intensity. The wine ends
with a delicate touch of peach sweetness. Vias Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $13
85
Viberti Giovanni 2011 Moscato d’Asti.
This is a fresh and easy Moscato d’Asti that
opens with floral aromas and honey, backed by peach,
dried sage and honeydew melon. Like the name of the
grape suggests, there is a musky quality to this Moscato with more honey and dried herb on the close. Opici
Wines. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $NA
85
Vino dei Fratelli 2012 Moscato d’Asti.
Here is an easy and fresh Moscato d’Asti that
offers a balanced dose of sweetness backed by honey,
peach, exotic fruit and white flower. The mouthfeel is
creamy and soft with plush, foamy cream. Quintessential Wines. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $16
84
Bella Bollè 2012 Moscato d’Asti. Packaged
in a bright blue bottle, this fresh Moscato d’Asti
delivers soft aromas of peach and white flower followed
by a spicy touch of crisp acidity that you can really feel at
the back of the tongue. Pair this easy wine with spongecake, fresh strawberries and whipped cream. Prestige
Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $9
84
82
Tosti NV Pink Moscato (Piedmont). With
an eye for all the commercial sweet-spots, this
is a Rosato sparkling wine made primarily with the fragrant Moscato grape (with 15% Malvasia). The wine
is sweet in a saccharine, artificial way. Prestige Wine
Group. —M.L.
abv: 7%
Price: $13
brachetto
84
Bosio NV Casa Rossa (Brachetto
d’Acqui). With fermentation aromas in full
view, this sparkling ruby red wine offers aromas and of
raspberry, strawberry and sweet almond milk. Bright
berry notes follow through to the palate. Quintessential
Wines. —M.L.
abv: 4.5%
Price: $13
83
Demarie NV Birbet Brachetto (Piedmont).
This sweet, sparkling Rosato opens with fresh
tones of raspberry and blueberry followed by simple
freshness in the mouth. There’s not much here, but the
wine is cheerful and fun overall. Uva Imports. —M.L.
abv: 6.5%
Price: $17
83
Prima Mazzo 2011 Brachetto (Piedmont).
Brachetto is an easy dessert wine with a mild
ruby color and intense aromas of raspberry and blueberry. The wine is exceedingly simple and straightforward with loads of fresh berry fruit, bitter almond, and
not much else. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $13
80
Stella Mia NV Rosso e Dolce Brachetto (Italy). Made from partially fermented
grape must, this sweet (slightly effervescent) ruby red
wine would pair with spongecake or strawberry shortcake. The mouthfeel is watery and thin. Prestige Wine
Group. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $11
Bera 2011 Moscato (Asti). Generous and
creamy perlage opens the stage for deeply fragrant tones of tangerine skin, white flower and peach.
The wine is soft and soapy with load of bubbling in the
mouth. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 7%
Price: $19
other sparkling
wines
84
87
Risata 2011 Moscato d’Asti. True to its
name, this Moscato delivers musky aromas of
soapy flower, honey, acacia flower and stone fruit. It
shows sweet, smooth creaminess as well. Prestige Wine
Group. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $16
83
Bella Bollè NV Sparkling Moscato (Piedmont). This fun and expressive sweet sparkling
wine opens with fragrant tones of peach blossom and
tangerine backed by almond paste and honey. The close
is sticky and sweet. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 7%
Price: $NA
Borgo Maragliano NV Brut Chardonnay
(Piedmont). For full review see page 9.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
87
Borgo Maragliano 2010 Francesco Galliano Blanc de Blancs (Piedmont). Francesco Galliano is a creamy and opulent Chardonnaybased sparkler that opens with a deep golden color,
yeasty notes followed by butter and toasted almond.
The wine shows loads of ripe and sticky fruit that almost
bring it over the top. USA Wine West. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $29
82
Bella Bollè NV Pink Moscato (Piedmont).
Sweet, sparkling and pink, this no-fuss dessert
wine would pair with strawberry shortcake or frozen yogurt with wild berries. The wine is soft and plush with
creamy foam at the back. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $9
WineMag.com | 61
buyingguide
northern italy
sparkling wines
barolo
of rose petal, tar, dried berry and black currant. There’s
a light touch of smoke and crushed mineral on the end.
In the mouth, the wine is firm and long, with drying polished tannins. Drink after 2015. Enoteca Diana. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
95
other red wines
conegliano
valdobbiadene
prosecco superiore
91
91
91
90
piedmont reds
Rivetto 2008 Briccolina (Barolo). Barolo
Briccolina is a study in elegance and finesse and
shows the best side of the notoriously finicky Nebbiolo
grape. Tar, forest berry, a touch of cassis, licorice and
ethereal notes of dried violets and roses opens the complex bouquet. More power is shown on the palate where
the wine delivers tight tannins and a polished feel. Voliovino. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $169
94
Elvio Cogno 2007 Bricco Pernice (Barolo). The sunny 2007 vintage and the well exposed Bricco Pernice cru make a formidable team and
drive the momentum and intensity of this beautiful
Barolo. The wine is rich and penetrating with an everevolving bouquet of dark berry fruit, spice, licorice, bitter chocolate and rum cake. The wine shows firm but
round tannins with loads of dark fruit on the close. Vias
Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $103
94
Elvio Cogno 2006 Vigna Elena Riserva
(Barolo). Elvio Cogno and his family take
great care to render an individual identity to each of the
various vineyard crus they farm. Vigna Elena displays
a particularly elegant and fine expression of Nebbiolo
with dark fruit and blackberry followed by bright licorice, tar and cola. The tannins are tight and firm and the
mouthfeel is incredibly polished and long. Hold 10 to
15 more years. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $106
94
Rivetto 2007 Leon Riserva (Barolo). You’ll
love that extra fruity richness that this beautiful
Barolo from the warm 2007 vintage proudly puts on display. Black fruit and plum is backed by licorice, cola, tar
and a drying mineral sensation. The tannins are firm but
polished and the wine promises a 10–20 year drinking
window. Voliovino. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
91
Giacomo Fenocchio 2006 Bussia Riserva
(Barolo). From the Bussia cru, this beautifully
delicate Riserva expression of Nebbiolo opens with fine
nuances of currant, licorice, smokey tar, crushed granite
and cola. There’s a dusty and still astringent quality to
the tannins that will relax with 10 or more years of aging
in the bottle. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $72
91
Gomba Boschetti 2008 Sorì Boschetti
(Barolo). Elegant and firm with dark aromas
of forest fruit, dried ginger, cola, spice and tobacco, this
beautiful Barolo needs another few years of cellar aging.
It already shows defined structure and a bright touch of
acidity on the close. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
91
San Biagio 2007 Sorì del Rovere (Barolo). This beautiful Barolo shows elegant aromas
Coppo 2008 Pomorosso (Barbera d’Asti).
Coppo presents a fine Barbera d’Asti that opens
with a dark, rich color and delivers bright aromas of
blackberry, Maraschino cherry, leather, pipe tobacco
and crisp berry fruit. The wine shows heft and density
in the mouth followed by a bright point of zesty acidity.
Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $70
Punset 2005 Campo Quadro (Barbaresco). The later Campo Quadro is released, the
more beautiful this organic Barbaresco becomes. This
elegant and extremely streamlined wine offers light
touches of licorice, tar and ginger behind cassis and
dried forest fruit. There’s a lively menthol component
spread over a clean and polished mouthfeel. Zancanella
Importing Co. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
88
Elvio Cogno 2010 Vigna del Mandorlo
(Dolcetto d’Alba). Fleshy, soft and bright, this
pretty Dolcetto offers a smooth quality of dark fruit, tobacco and spice backed by enough acidity to keep your
palate refreshed. Pair it with cheesy pasta dishes. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $34
87
Giribaldi 2009 Accerto (Nebbiolo d’Alba).
This Nebbiolo d’Alba offers remarkable freshness of its fruit flavors that come off as cherry, raspberry
and plum. It’s an easy, straightforward wine with a very
approachable drinking style. The wine shows the informal and playful side of Piedmont’s most noble grape.
Premier Sellers. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
87
Principiano Ferdinando 2010 Sant’Anna
(Dolcetto d’Alba). This darkly concentrated
Dolcetto offers fresh fruit aromas of blackberry, plum
and ripe black cherry. There’s loads of dark fruit intensity here followed by a plush, dark and slightly raw feel
in the mouth. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
87
Punset 2010 Barbera d’Alba. Punset is
an excellent organic and biodynamic winery in
Neive, Piedmont. This easy Barbera d’Alba opens with
dried fruit and cassis followed by dried herb and black
olive. The mouthfeel is fresh and streamlined. Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
86
Camparo 2010 Sorì Bric Camparo (Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba). Organic vintner
Mauro Drocco presents a tangy and spicy red wine with
cassis, red currant and cured meat. It ends with freshness but also some candied fruit. Brian Cuddy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
Ruggeri & C. 2011 Giustino B. Extra Dry
(Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco
Superiore). Giustino B. may well be the best Prosecco
Superiore available today. What sets it apart is its delicate aromatic profile with subtle highlights of jasmine
flower and stone fruit. The bouquet is nuanced but it is
also powerful in terms of its pristine sharpness and focus. Villa Italia. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
Adami 2012 Vigneto Giardino Rive di Colbertaldo Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene
Prosecco Superiore). Franco Adami was among
the first Prosecco producers to insist on vintage-dating
his wines. He also developed the concept of vineyarddesignate expressions, known as “Rive” here in northern
Italy. This is a beautiful Prosecco from the steep mountains of Valdobbiadene with creamy perlage and bright
peach and grapefruit aromas. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $22
89
Adami 2011 Col Credas Rive di Farra di
Soligo Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene
Prosecco Superiore). A new single-vineyard product from a protagonist in the world of quality Prosecco
Superiore, this Brut expression opens with frothy foam
and dry aromas of talc powder, crushed mineral and
white flower. The wine is sharp and defined with a blast
of balanced acidity on the close. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $22
89
Mionetto 2011 Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza Millesimato Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). A delicate bouquet of white flower and talc powder gives this vineyard-designate Prosecco Superiore a very clean, sharp
and fresh first impression. That enormous focus continues to the palate where the wine’s fresh acidity and tight
perlage does a great job of refreshing the mouth. Mionetto USA. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $20
88
Adami NV Bosco di Gica Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
Great for informal occasions or as an apéritif before a
delicious fish dinner, this tight and focused Brut Prosecco Superiore offers aromas of talc powder, white flower
and a distant touch of honey. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $18
88
Adami NV Dei Casel Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
A soft note of ripe honeydew melon or white peach
opens the bouquet of this delicate Italian sparkler. Be-
yond those evident fruit tones is a wine that delivers
fresh acidity and loads of creamy mousse. Dalla Terra
Winery Direct. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $18
88
Andreola 2012 26esimo I Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
A tiny element (just 3%) of Chardonnay goes a long way
to add extra depth and intensity to this friendly Italian
sparkler. It offers subtle sweetness followed by tight atoms of ginger, white flower and citrus. Curious Cork
Imports LLC. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $19
88
Andreola 2012 Millesimato Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
This sparkler shows some distant sweetness and loads of
fruity softness that comes forward as peach, nectarine
and honeydew melon. It is a textbook example of an offdry Prosecco Superiore that is perfect as an aperitivo
wine. Siena Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $19
88
Malibràn 2011 5 Grammi Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
Prosecco Superiore 5 Grammi is a beautiful and delicate sparkling wine that delivers citrus, white flower and
a touch of sour grapefruit, That fresh acidity coupled
with the foamy effervescence of the wine keeps the palate refreshed. Admiralty Beverage. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
88
Merotto 2012 Cuvée del Fondatore Graziano Merotto Millesimato Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This
a beautiful Prosecco Superiore with bright aromas of
white flower, stone fruit and dried grass. The mouthfeel is thin and crisp, but it leaves ample room for the
creamy foam that inevitably spreads thickly over the
palate. Golden State Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $34
88
Bortolomiol 2012 Bandarossa Millesimato Extra Dry (Valdobbiadene Prosecco
Superiore). For full review see page 8.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20
Montesel NV Vigna del Paradiso Extra
Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). A touch of sweet peach and grapefruit
opens the bouquet of this crisp and easy-drinking Prosecco Superiore. The perlage is soft and creamy and extra yellow fruit appears on the close. Tricana Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $23
88
88
88
Bortolomiol 2012 Ius Naturae Millesimato Brut (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). For full review see page 9.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20
88
Bortolomiol NV Prior Brut (Valdobbiadene Prosecco). For full review see page 9.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12%
Price: $17
88
Bortolotti 2012 Extra Dry 47 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
There’s an evident note of tart grapefruit that segues almost immediately to sweeter tones of peach and honeydew melon. That slight sweetness is backed by creamy
foam and soft, smooth perlage. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $24
88
La Tordera NV Serrai Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
This feminine Prosecco Superiore offers bright floral
notes of jasmine and honeysuckle followed by peach
and melon. The style is extra dry, meaning there is a
veil of sweetness at the back, that is enhanced by the
soft sparkling foam. This wine is truly enjoyable. Tesori
Wines. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
88
Le Colture NV Fagher Brut (Conegliano
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). A
tiny percentage of Chardonnay is added to the sparkling
blend to render a slightly softer and more generous
presence in the mouth. Spicy white peppercorn, citrus
and drying mineral are followed stone fruit and melon.
T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $15
Ruggeri & C. NV Giall’Oro Extra Dry
Superiore). Giall’Oro demonstrates that Prosecco Superiore does indeed show individual traits linked to the
special territory that characterizes this corner of northern Italy. The wine is soft and creamy with pretty endnotes of ripe peach and melon. Villa Italia. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
88
Ruggeri & C. NV Santo Stefano Dry
Superiore). Frothy cream and mousse gives this dry
Prosecco Superiore an especially soft and peachy first
impression. Stone fruit, white flower and honey appear
on the crisp, clean finish. Villa Italia. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
88
Ruggeri & C. 2011 Vecchie Viti Brut
Superiore). From one of the most beautiful vineyards
in Valdobbiadene with decades-old vines that show
their twisted and contorted trunks, this pretty Prosecco
Superiore delivers feminine notes of freshly chopped
sage and yellow rose. Villa Italia. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Zardetto 2012 Tre Venti Brut Millesimato (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This is a very beautiful and satisfying
Brut expression of Prosecco Superiore that delivers dry
sensations of talc powder and crushed stone backed by
white flower and citrus. The close is steely crisp and
bright. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $25
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Althe’a 2011 Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Fine perlage
and foamy mousse characterize this delicate Prosecco Supe-
riore as it is poured into the glass. Beyond that soft, creamy
appearance, this fresh sparkler offers flavors of peach, citrus
and honeydew melon. Acid Inc Selections. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $16
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Andreola 2012 Más de Fer Extra Dry
Superiore). Great for summer sipping by the pool
or at the beach, this simple Prosecco Superiore offers
fresh fruit tones and pretty accents of spring flower.
The sparkler shows crisp acidity, delicate sweetness and
creamy foam. Siena Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
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Andreola 2012 Vigneto Dirupo Brut
Superiore). Glera (the main grape of Prosecco) is enhanced here with tiny percentages of Perera and Bianchetta (two other indigenous varieties of the Veneto)
to produce a clear and light sparkler that is redolent of
citrus, white almond and delicate spring flower. Siena
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $16
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Andreola 2012 Vigneto Dirupo Extra Dry
Superiore). Available at an attractive, low price this finely balanced and cheerful Prosecco Superior shows nicely
fragrant exotic fruit and yellow rose. The creamy quality
of its perlage and mouthfeel give this sparkler a competitive edge. Siena Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $16
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Bacio della Luna 2012 Millesimato Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This bubbly Prosecco Superiore
offers vibrant tones of white flower and cut grass followed by light touches of peach and honeydew melon.
The mouthfeel is creamy and soft with a subtle touch of
sweetness. AWDirect. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $25
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Bianca Vigna 2012 Millesimato Brut
Superiore). A great deal at this price point, this vintage-dated Italian sparkler opens with steely bubbles
and tightly focused aromas of white peppercorn, white
peach citrus and honey. It’s considerable intensity helps
drive it forward over the palate. Indigenous Selections.
Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $12
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Borgoluce 2012 Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Borgoluce is the type of brut sparkling wine that shows all that
easy-drinking informality we love to find in Prosecco
Superiore. White flower and citrus are the main aromatic elements and the wine is bright and sharply crisp
in the mouth. The Sorting Table. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $22
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Borgoluce 2012 Extra Dry (Conegliano
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). A
consistent producer in the wide word of Italian sparkling wines, Borgoluce always delivers clean and pristine wines with a steady and cheerful quality of perlage.
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There’s a little extra pulp and density here in the form
of sweet peach and lemon mousse. The Sorting Table.
—M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $22
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Bortolotti NV Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This Prosecco Superiore is characterized by an immediate whiff
of tree-fresh lemon and shows a stronger citrus quality
than most sparklers in its category. The close is steely,
bright and dry. A Marc de Grazia selection; various
American importers. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20
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Bortolotti NV Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Extra sweetness and density give this wine a full and generous personality. Dry Proseccos usually show a little extra peach
juice and nectarine, as this wine does, without being
heavy or cloying. A Marc de Grazia selection; various
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20
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Bortolotti NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Simple
celebrations with family and friends sometimes call out
for a bright sparkling wine that delivers the goods, but is
in no way too complex or over the top. This is just such
a wine with crisp lines and steady features of lemon and
sweet grapefruit. A Marc de Grazia selection; various
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20
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Bortolotti 2011 Montagnole Brut Rive di
S. Stefano (Conegliano Valdobbiadene
Prosecco Superiore). Using the recently created
Rive designation (Rive refers to a vineyard cru within
the greater Conegliano-Valdobbiadene appellation),
this special Brut sparkler is elegant and steely with firm,
steady perlage and aromas of citrus, sage and talc powder. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $23
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Conte Collalto NV Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This
estate is a clear cut leader in the Conegliano subzone
of Prosecco Superiore. Not only does it produce great
sparkling wines, but it offers an entire ecosystem of
farming, agriculture and animal breeding that follows
a stringent model of ecological sustainability. Hats off
for this clean and focused bubbly. Alberello Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20
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Conte Collalto NV Extra Dry (Conegliano
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This
elegant bottle (both in terms of content and presentation) would make an excellent option for an aperitivo or
could pair with summer salads or seafood lunches. Citrus, drying mineral and honey make for textbook Prosecco perfection. Alberello Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $16
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De Stefani NV Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This Brut
Prosecco Superiore opens with mineral dryness and a
touch of smoke or crushed granite that gives it a steely
and vibrant personality. White almond and citrus mark
the close. Bon Vivant Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $22
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Drusian NV Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This Brut Prosecco Superiore opens with very citrusy characteristics
of lime, lemon and tangerine skin. The acidity is snappy
and lively and the wine ends with plush sensations driven by its natural foam and mousse. This wine is very
nice and distinctive. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $16
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Foss Marai NV Strada di Guia 109 Brut
Superiore). Here’s a well-focused and sharp Brut
sparkler with tart citrus tones followed by white peach,
dried sage and crushed white stone. It’s an easy-going
Prosecco Superiore with a firm, steely quality in the
mouth. Wine Twist. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
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Foss Marai NV Strada di Guia 109 Extra
Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Tightly linked to its territory of origin,
this vineyard specific Extra Dry sparkler is fresh and
zesty in the mouth with soft perlage and loads of melon and white peach to keep up the momentum. Wine
Twist. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
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Gemin 2012 Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). From producer Guglielmo Bortolomiol, this Brut sparkling wine
shows simple lines of dry mineral, white flower and
crisp lime. Pair this informal Italian sparker with grilled
shrimp encrusted with sweet sesame seeds. Grappoli
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
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Giavi 2012 Prima Volta Millesimato Dry
Superiore). This dry Prosecco Superiore opens with
easy aromas of peach and white flower followed by
sweet cream and fresh lemon or lime. The style dictates a touch of sweetness in the mouth and although
this Italian sparkler does deliver that, the wine is light
and refreshing overall. Andrew Wierda Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $18
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Il Colle NV 46 Parallelo Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This is a soft and delicate sparkler with aromas
of white flower, jasmine, talc powder and soft peach or
nectarine. Creamy bubbles make for a round, delicate
mouthfeel. Bon Vivant Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $30
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Il Follo 2012 Villa Luigia Millesimato Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). A lean but crisp mouthfeel characterizes this vintage-dated Prosecco Superiore. The wine
shows simple tones of white flower, crushed stone and
white almond. The effervescence feels tight and clean.
Wade & Clark Wine Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
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La Tordera NV Brunei Brut (Conegliano
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
Packaged in one of the squat bottles that are so popular in the Prosecco Superiore area today, this fresh Italian sparkler would pair with finger foods or unsalted almonds. The wine delivers citrus with mineral tones on
the close. Tesori Wines. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
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Le Colture NV Cruner Dry (Conegliano
Cruner Dry is a simpatico Italian sparkler with notes of
spicy white pepper at the top followed by peach, citrus and
honeydew melon. The wine is round and soft overall with
a moist, creamy feel in the mouth. Epic Wines. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $20
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Le Manzane NV Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Here’s
a great value option for those looking for a chilled summer sipper by the pool or at an outdoor picnic. The wine
is light and lean, but it also shows a very lively mouthfeel followed by sharp perlage, honey and peach. Good
Earth Wines. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $12
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Le Manzane NV Extra Dry (Conegliano
There’s a bright, clean quality to this Prosecco Superiore that is reinforced by citrus, grapefruit and stone
fruit aromas. Dried grass, honey and white flower also
play supporting roles. Good Earth Wines. Best Buy.
—M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $12
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Malibràn 2012 Ruio Brut (Conegliano
Ruio Brut is a simple and clean Prosecco Superiore that
offers peach, citrus and crushed mineral. The effervescence is soft and foamy but the finish is dryer than most
Italian sparklers from the general Prosecco category.
Admiralty Beverage. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
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Marsuret 2012 Millesimato Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
Agostino Marsuret proposes this fresh sparkling wine
made with Glera, Verdiso and Perera grapes. The soft
sparkler offers just a touch of sweetness with easy layers
of peach and grapefruit that pull back slowly. The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $22
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Merotto NV Bareta Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Fresh,
bright and super lively on the palate, this very attractive
Prosecco Superiore would pair with bite-sized quiche
with cheese and ham or mini-pizza appetizers. Citrus
and green melon are backed by acidity and tight, steely
perlage. Golden State Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $26
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Perlage 2012 Col di Manza Millesimato
Rive di Ogliano (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Made with biodynamic
and organically-farmed fruit, this cheerful vineyard-designate Prosecco Superiore sports the traditional string
closure instead of a sparkling cage and capsule. The
contents of the bottle shine bright with a lively, bubbly appearance and simple aromas of citrus and peach.
Chartrand Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $16
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Villa Sandi NV Cuvée Oris Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
This is a smooth and generous dry Prosecco Superiore
with subtle tones of honey, dried flower, peach, green
apple and tangerine. Those pretty aromas are backed by
creamy foam and soft bubbles. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $19
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Bellussi NV Belcanto Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
The Belcanto Extra Dry is slightly muddled on the nose
with aromas of peach, citrus and dried hay that stand
in contrast. In the mouth, the wine is watery but crisp.
Wine Worldwide, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $17
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Bellussi NV Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This Prosecco
Superiore doesn’t offer the roundness of other wines in
its category, but it does offer an easy-drinking experience with fresh fruit, sweet peach and creamy perlage.
Wine Worldwide, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $13
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Bellussi NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Bellussi
Prosecco is well distributed in Italy and despite its popularity it remains one of the easiest (and perhaps leastnoteworthy) expressions of Prosecco. Its aim is to please
the nose with fresh fruit flavors and the palate thanks
to its freshness. It does that job well. Wine Worldwide,
Inc. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
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Case Bianche NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
You’ll enjoy the heft and added creaminess of this fresh
Prosecco Superiore. Peach blossom, white rose and almond skin emerge from the bouquet and make for an
informal and friendly personality. Elliott Bay Distributing Co. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
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Case Bianche 2012 Vigna del Cuc Brut
Superiore). This vineyard-designate Brut sparkling
wine opens with subtle tones of sweet grapefruit and
lemon curd followed by softer touches of peach and
honey. The creamy bubbling is followed by a touch of
white pepper. Elliott Bay Distributing Co. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
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Col de’ Salici 2012 Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
This easy expression of the Glera grape shows a cheerful
side of citrus and melon backed by Granny Smith apple,
lime and cut grass. Prosecco Superiore is the perfect
choice for a hot summer afternoon thanks to its naturally cooling freshness. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Best
Buy. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $11
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Drusian NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Drusian
delivers an especially creamy and rich expression of the
Glera grape with soft tones of peach and grapefruit followed by crisp acidity and foamy effervescence. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $14
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Giavi 2012 Prima Volta Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
Here’s a food-fiendly and easy-going Prosecco Superiore (in a dry or Brut expression) that offers aromas of
crushed mineral, stone fruit and fresh citrus. This sparkler feels focused and sharp in the mouth. Andrew Wierda Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $16
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Marsuret 2012 San Boldo Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
Making wine since 1936, Marsuret’s San Boldo Brut
opens with sharp notes of white pepper and dried hay
followed by citrus, peach and white flower. The wine
shows thin lines with a watery consistency. The Country
Vintner-Craft and Estate. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $16
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Merotto NV Colbelo Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
Here’s a simple sparkling wine that delivers subtle tones
of peach and stone fruit with a thin and transparent appearance. This expression does a nice job of presenting sweet fruit tones against fresh acidity. Golden State
Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $26
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Mionetto NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Mionetto is a steady producer of clean, easy-drinking sparkling wine that is consistent and fun to drink year in and
year out. This expression is ripe with sweet peach and
lime. Mionetto USA. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $18
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Il Colle NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). A tiny hint
of cinnamon or clove appears at first and opens the bouquet of this soft and creamy Prosecco Superiore. The
mouthfeel is soft and plush and this sparkler shows nice
personality and heft. Catamarca Imports LLC. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
L’Antica Quercia 2012 Matiú Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This Brut Prosecco Superiore shows a tight
embroidery of white flower, almond and citrus aromas.
The wine is simple and clean on the finish with a drying
mineral touch on the close. John Given Wines. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $24
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La Farra NV Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This easy-going Prosecco Superiore Brut opens with a fresh bouquet
of dried white flower, citrus and crushed mineral. The
wine’s dry, lively mouthfeel is backed by the softness of
its creamy perlage. Wine 4 All. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $16
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La Farra NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Simple
fruit and citrus flavors segue to soft layers of creamy
mousse and tangerine. This playful Italian sparkler
would taste great next to toasted bread with smoked
salmon appetizers or grilled shrimp. Wine 4 All. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $16
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La Farra 2012 Millesimato Rive di Farra
di Soligo Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). A soft note of peach
nectar or apricot gives this wine rounder, more generous
appeal. Most Prosecco Superiore is executed in an Extra Dry style which means the sparkler has just enough
sugar to feel plush and creamy. Wine 4 All. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $18
Montesel 2012 Riva dei Fiori Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Riva dei Fiori shows a light and delicate quality
with pretty accents of white flower, almond paste and
crushed stone. This sparkler is short and snappy with a
clean, bright close. Tricana Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $23
Sommariva NV Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This is a
Brut Prosecco Superiore but it shows slightly more softness and sweetness than you normally get with this driest expression of the Italian sparkling wine. Peach blossom and almond skin characterize the bouquet. Kermit
Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $15
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Terre di San Venanzio Fortunato 2012
Millesimato Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Traditionally, Prosecco sparkling wines were executed in a dry style, which
means they have enough sweetness to change the aromatic profile and softness of the mouthfeel. Indeed,
fresh peach and apricot emerge from the bouquet and
the wine feels round and creamy overall. Artisan Wines,
Inc. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $17
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Val d’Oca 2012 Millesimato Black Bottle
Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene
Prosecco Superiore). Bright, sharp and easy citrus
aromas open the bouquet of this Extra Dry expression.
The wine seems to hold back in terms of intensity, but it
certainly delivers freshness followed by smooth, creamy
mousse. Solstars Inc. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $20
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Valdellövo NV Anno Zero Extra Dry
Superiore). There’s a sweet, floral touch at the open
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that is followed by peach nectar and lemon mousse.
Small percentages of Bianchetta and Verdiso grapes
give the wine a softer, plusher performance in the
mouth. Delectatio Wines. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
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Villa Sandi NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). When
Prosecco is really great, it offers freshness, ease-indrinking and simple fruit flavors. This bright sparkler
does all of the above. Plus, it delivers the kind of soft,
creamy mousse that creates momentum in the mouth.
Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $18
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Cà Vittoria NV Costa dei Peschi Brut
Superiore). Light tones of citrus and peach color an
easy Brut Prosecco Superiore that would work nicely
with barbecue shrimp in sesame sauce. The acidity in
this light sparkler keeps the palate clean. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $15
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Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene NV
La Perla Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). La Perla Extra Dry is
a soft and luscious sparkling wine with simple lines and
fresh aromas of peach blossom and almond paste. Soft
sweetness is backed by fresh acidity. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
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Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene
2012 Millesimato Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This simple
and fresh Prosecco Superiore opens with subtle tones
of lime and honeydew melon backed by zesty freshness
and creamy mousse. It shows nice peach tones on the
close. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
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Colesel NV Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Simple lines
of citrus and white flower define the one dimensional
bouquet of this fresh and friendly Italian sparkler. The
wine shows sharp, lively appeal with balanced acidity that feels fresh and bright in the mouth. Vigneti
D’Italia. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $17
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Perlage NV Canah Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Made
with organically-farmed Glera grapes, this sparkling
Prosecco Superiore opens with subtle tones of lemon
or almond blossom with slightly more sweetness than
you usually get with a Brut sparkler. Chartrand Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $13
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Perlage 2012 Animae Brut Millesimato
Superiore). There’s a ripe, waxy quality to this wine
that recalls apricot and honey. The fruit flavors are ripe
and soft, with a smooth feel to the palate that is en-
hanced by the wine’s natural acidity and its bright effervescence. The Triton Collection. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $26
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Salatin 2012 Millesimato Extra Dry
Superiore). This is a creamy and lush expression, with
soft sweetness in the form of peach nectar and almond.
The effervescence is soft and foamy. Patagonia Wine &
Imports, LLC. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $19
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cot and peach syrup follow by honey and butterscotch.
The wine feels waxy and creamy on the close. Empson
(USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $17
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Vinicola Serena 2012 Ville D’Arfanta Brut
Millesimato (Conegliano Valdobbiadene
Prosecco Superiore). There’s a soapy, fragrant quality to this brut sparkling wine that is backed by slightly
muddled aromas of simple citrus and peach. It’s perfect
for very informal drinking occasions. Superb Wine International LLC. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
Terra Serena NV Extra Dry (Conegliano
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This
simple Extra Dry Prosecco Superiore opens with peach,
nectarine, simple lines and a watery mouthfeel. The
sparkler’s momentum is achieved mostly by the creaminess of its bubbles. Nardone Wine. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
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Terre di San Venanzio Fortunato NV Brut
Superiore). Talc powder and white pepper appear at
first and the bouquet opens to include additional layers
of citrus and stone fruit. The perlage is sharp and toned.
K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $15
Terre di San Venanzio Fortunato NV Extra
Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This is a simple and fresh Italian sparkler that offers white flower and peach backed by citrus and almond. A touch of soft sweetness adds a chewy
spot that is followed by creamy mousse. Artisan Wines,
Inc. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $15
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Valdellövo NV Bade (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Thin, simple and bright, this easy sparkling Prosecco Superiore
opens with citrus, peach and white flower. Although
the bottle does not specify the style, it feels like a Brut
expression with very little residual sugar. Delectatio
Wines. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $30
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Zardetto 2012 Millesimato Dry Zeta
Superiore). Zeta Dry, with a Zorro-style “Z” etched
across the label, offers an easy-drinking sparkling wine
experience with light shades of citrus, mineral and stone
fruit. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $23
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Valdellövo NV Zero Nove Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).
This is a very lean and dry expression of Prosecco Superiore that does a great job of refreshing a thirsty mouth
on a hot summer day, but adds little else. Lemon and
white flower aromas are backed by sharp bubbles. Delectatio Wines. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
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Canella NV Conegliano Valdobbiadene
Prosecco Superiore. Canella’s Prosecco
Superiore shows a heavier style with aromas of apri-
Bortolotti NV Dry (Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze). This Cartizze expression of
Prosecco Superiore shows gorgeous fullness and softness with pretty layers of peach, nectarine and dry talc
powder. The sparkler is smooth and creamy and renders
a generous and soft feeling in the mouth. A Marc de
Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $39
Le Colture NV Dry (Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze). Le Colture is one of the
best producers of Prosecco Superiore and this Dry expression spells out why. The wine is soft and layered
with pretty nuances of peach, white flower and fresh
tangerine. You’ll love those drying mineral notes at the
end that contrast this sparkler’s natural sweetness. T.
Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $30
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Mionetto NV Dry (Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze). If you’d like to dabble in
the aromatic sensations and qualities that make the Cartizze cru unique, this expression makes for a great starting point. This elite expression of Italy’s most popular
sparkling wine opens with white flower, talc powder and
nectarine. The close offers a delicate touch of sweetness. Mionetto USA. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $35
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Ruggeri & C. NV Dry (Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze). From the celebrated
Cartizze cru, this delicate sparkling wine shows delicate
tones of talc powder and honey backed by citrus and
stone fruit. What sets the wine apart is the elegance and
soft perlage it shows overall. Villa Italia. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
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Villa Sandi NV Vigna la Rivetta Brut (Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze). Tradition dictates that Prosecco Superiore made with grapes
from the Cartizze cru be made in a dry style that shows
more sweetness in the mouth. Breaking with tradition,
Villa Sandi offers a brut interpretation with tight citrus,
crushed mineral and even some white pepper. Folio
Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $38
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Il Follo NV Dry (Valdobbiadene Superiore
di Cartizze). Sweet tones of peach and nectarine are backed by honey and yellow rose. The sweetness
in this dry expression from the Cartizze cru is very evident and the wine does a nice job of showing creamy effervescence to render more volume and richness on the
finish. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $30
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Andreola 2012 Dry (Prosecco Superiore
di Cartizze). This Prosecco Superiore from
the Cartizze cru is characterized by extra richness and
density in the mouth. Soft layers of peach and melon
are followed by soft foam and mousse. Siena Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $37
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Colesel NV Dry (Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze). You’ll love the easy, slightly sweet approach of this fresh Prosecco Superiore
from the famed Cartizze cru. White flower, mineral
and sweet peach appear on the foamy finish. Vigneti
D’Italia. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $22
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Anna Spinato 2012 4or Extra Dry (Prosecco). Also available in a 187-ml bottle, this
refreshing sparkling wine opens with subtle tones of
stone fruit and citrus with subtle sweetness on the close.
The quality of the perlage is tight and sharp. Megawine
Inc. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $18
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Cà Furlan NV Cuvée Beatrice (Prosecco).
Very fresh and easy-going, this cheerful sparkling
Prosecco is a perfect choice for afternoon sips by the pool
or in the garden. Citrus, lime, white flower and nectarine
open the bouquet. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
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Cavit NV Lunetta (Prosecco). One of the
best-selling Proseccos on the planet (thanks to
very large case production numbers and good distribution), this well-priced sparkler is simple and fresh with
loads of citrus, peach and melon. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $14
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De Stefani NV Zero Gran Cuvée Extra Dry
(Prosecco). Very crisp, focused and clean, this
easy sparkling wine does a great job of keeping the palate refreshed. It’s an Extra Dry expression which means
there’s just a tiny touch of sweetness in the mouth. Bon
Vivant Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $20
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Il Follo NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). From the
Treviso Prosecco production area, this easy-going sparkler offers no big surprises but it does do a good
job of keeping the palate refreshed. Vibrant bubbling
keeps it sharp and focused. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $12
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Anna Spinato NV Gocce di Luna Moondrops Extra Dry (Prosecco). Moondrops
opens with aromas of cut grass and citrus followed by
background tones of peach and melon. Sweet fruit and
soft, creamy effervescence appear on the finish. Megawine Inc. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $17
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Bacio della Luna NV Brut (Prosecco).
Here’s a fresh and simple Prosecco with sharp
and clean perlage followed by citrus, peach, honey and
even a touch of white peppercorn. This is a perfect
aperitivo sparkler. AWDirect. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20
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Bocelli NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). Here’s
a simple Prosecco by Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli and his family that offers fresh citrus and grapefruit with a touch of honey and peach on the close. It’s
a great choice for summer afternoon sipping. August
Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
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Canti NV Heritage Extra Dry (Prosecco).
This is a fresh and light Prosecco that puts great
emphasis on citrus and grapefruit aromas. Beyond
those layers are touches of white flower and peach. Try
this wine with a bowl of warm popcorn. Prestige Wine
Group. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $13
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Le Colture 2012 Sylvoz Brut (Prosecco).
This is a base Prosecco sparkling wine with
bright citrus and melon aromas followed by fresh sage
and crushed mineral. There’s a dry, flinty sensation to
the finish. Voliovino. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
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Natale Verga 2012 Poggio dei Vigneti Extra Dry (Prosecco). Simple tones of citrus
and cut grass open the bouquet of this fresh sparkling
Prosecco. Talc powder and a very bright, almost steely
quality of perlage characterizes the mouthfeel. Riviera
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $14
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Piera Martellozzo 2012 Blu Giovello (Prosecco). This Extra Dry Prosecco opens with
fresh citrus and peach at the forefront of white flower and
crushed mineral. The wine is light, easy and crisp with a
subtle touch of soft sweetness. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $12
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Albino Armani NV Extra Dry (Prosecco).
Easy, fresh, and not particularly earth-shattering, this Extra Dry sparkler should be served at informal drinking occasions (like a gathering of friends on a
warm Friday afternoon). Peach and citrus are the main
aromatic elements. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
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Enza NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). This simple sparkler opens with fresh citrus and peach
followed by bright acidity and smooth effervescence.
Those easy-drinking and refreshing qualities make this
Prosecco the perfect summer sipper. Deutsch Family
Wine & Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
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Foss Marai NV Brut (Prosecco). Here is
a simple and one-dimensional Prosecco that
doles out citrus and honey. Try it with salted finger
foods. Wine Twist. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $15
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Foss Marai NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). This
is a simple and clean Prosecco with medium intensity, little depth and bright fruit layers of peach and
tangerine. It’s a good choice for very informal drinking
occasions. Wine Twist. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $15
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Natale Verga NV Extra Dry (Prosecco).
This is a tight and firm style of Prosecco with
lively perlage and aromatic characteristics that veer towards talc powder and white flower more than they do
peachy fruit or honey. It’s an Extra Dry Prosecco but
the sweetness is not immediately obvious. Jandell Selections. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $13
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Pasqua NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). For full
review see page 10.
abv: 11%
Price: $13
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Rapido NV Brut (Prosecco). As its name
suggests, this is a racy little Prosecco with simple fruit layers of peach and citrus followed by perky effervescence. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
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Stella Mia NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). Very
easy and fresh, this is the kind of Prosecco to
drink at a summer poolside party. Citrus, talc powder
and peach appear on the bouquet and this sparkler
is lean and fresh on the finish. Prestige Wine Group.
—M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $11
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Tenuta Cà Bolani NV Brut (Prosecco).
This Prosecco Brut from Tenuta Cà Bolani is
symbolic of the sparkling wine efforts now underway in
the newly enlarged Prosecco appellation. The wine is
simple and bright with a lean mouthfeel and lively citrus
endnotes. Zonin USA. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
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Colutta NV Brut (Prosecco). Here is a very
simple and bright Prosecco with citrus, dried
hay, grapefruit and melon. The sparkler is thin and easy
in the mouth with perky perlage. Wine Emporium.
—M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
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Pizzolato NV Fields Brut (Prosecco).
Made from organic grapes, this is a cheerful Prosecco with apricot, honey and butterscotch delivered in a simple and uncomplicated manner. The
mouthfeel is thin and sharp. Natural Merchants LLC.
—M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $12
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Zonin NV Brut (Prosecco). This is a very
simple Prosecco brut with straight lines of citrus
and peach backed by foamy perlage. The wine opens
with a bright, luminous color and fresh acidity. Zonin
USA. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
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Fattoria Giuseppe Savini NV Lellè Extra
Dry (Prosecco). This basic Prosecco is perfectly quaffable thanks to its simple, straightforward delivery. There’s a touch of almond or caramel behind the
apricot and melon. Drink now, the wine doesn’t have
long to go. First Tier Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $14
prosecco treviso
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Ornella Molon NV Extra Dry (Prosecco
Treviso). This is a simple and straightforward
expression of Prosecco with tight perlage and medium
aromas of white flower and citrus. That subtle but soft
sweetness you taste would pair nicely next to vegetable
tempura. Uva Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $20
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Salatin NV Extra Dry (Prosecco Treviso).
This fresh Prosecco offers citrus and peach aromas with dried hay and crushed mineral. The wine is
simple and crisp overall with sharp, steely perlage. Patagonia Wine & Imports, LLC. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $16
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Salatin NV Brut (Prosecco Treviso). This
simple and straightforward sparkler offers clean
tones of citrus and stone fruit with talc powder and
bitter almond. The wine would work perfectly on hot
summer afternoons. Patagonia Wine & Imports, LLC.
—M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $16
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Zardetto NV Brut (Prosecco Treviso). This
is a thin and fresh Prosecco that remains simple and easy to drink to the last drop. Citrus, peach,
tangerine and talc powder best describe the aromas.
Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $16
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Moletto 2009 Brut Millesimato (Veneto).
Fresh and clean with a personality largely driven by citrus, stone fruit and toasted bread or yeast, this
Italian sparkling wine shows background tones of talc
powder and almond skin. There’s a touch of sour fruit
on the close. Laird & Company. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Foss Marai NV Surfine Cuvée Brut (Veneto). This is an offbeat (somewhat strange) sparkling blend of Glera (the Prosecco grape), Chardonnay
and Sauvignon Blanc that really doles out those exotic
fruit aromas of mango, papaya and passion fruit. The
wine gets extra points for the richness of the mouthfeel.
Wine Twist. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
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La Cappuccina 2008 Villa Buri Brut Millesimato (Veneto). This is a very unusual Italian sparkler made from the Garganega grape that is usually used to make the fresh and crisp wines of Soave. In
this case, the wine’s lively perlage makes for a soft and
creamy mouthfeel backed by peach and lemon mousse.
The fruit is organic. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $28
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Bacio della Luna NV Extra Dry Rosè Pinot
Nero (Veneto). Here’s any easy sparkling wine
that opens with a pretty pink color and lively aromas
of cranberry, white almond, citrus and lemon curd. A
slight hint of sweetness would make this a perfect pairing partner to insalata caprese with fresh mozzarella.
AWDirect. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $20
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Zardetto NV Private Cuvée Brut (Veneto).
This sparkling blend of Glera, Chardonnay and
Moscato with other grapes bursts open with friendly
and straightforward momentum. It delivers bright aromas of peach, honey and white flower followed by soft,
creamy foam. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
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Zonin NV Rosé (Veneto). This is a fresh and
fun rosé sparkling wine that offers subtle tones
of cranberry and wild berry backed by touches of mint
and sweet almond. Its personality is good natured and
simple. Zonin USA. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
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Zardetto NV Vino Spumante Rosé (Veneto). This is an extremely simple rosé sparkler
with medium aromas of wild berry and red rose backed
by crisp freshness and bright perlage. It is a simple and
thin bubbly overall. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $17
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Rotari 2004 Flavio Riserva Brut (Trento).
A good portion of the Chardonnay is refined in
oak to render a soft and creamy sparkling wine with very
good density and depth. There’s a playful touch of bitter
almond, honey and apricot on the close. Prestige Wine
Imports Corp. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
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Rotari NV Rosé (Trento). For full review see
page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
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Foss Marai NV Roös Brut (Veneto). This
is an offbeat Spumante Rosato (made from a
blend of Montepulciano, Sagrantino, Sangiovese and
Cabernet Sauvignon) packaged in a beautifully rimmed
keepsake bottle. The contents offers tart flavors of almond, wild berry and cranberry. Wine Twist. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
Trevisiol NV Brut Rosé (Veneto). This Rosé
sparkling wine offers a pretty pink color and
easy aromas of citrus, pink grapefruit, peach and honey.
Soft, creamy foam is backed by peachy sweetness. Small
Vineyards LLC. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $18
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Le Colture 2012 Rosé Brut (Veneto). This
Rosato sparkling blend is comprised of 70%
Chardonnay and 30% Merlot to offer a pale pink color
and creamy, white foam. The bouquet presents a pungent note followed by crisp citrus and cranberry. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $14
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Pizzolato 2011 Brut Chardonnay (Veneto). A simple sparkler (made according to the
Metodo Charmat) with organically-farmed fruit, this
Chardonnay-based wine opens with caramel, honey and
apricot aromas. Natural Merchants LLC. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $15
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Rivani NV Moscato (Veneto). From the
Treviso area of the Veneto, this fragrant and
floral Moscato sparkling wine offers sweet and chewy
tones of peach syrup and ripe fruit. Prestige Wine
Group. —M.L.
abv: 7%
Price: $7
Rotari NV Brut Talento (Trento). With an
amazingly large case production, you should
have absolutely no problem finding this well valued Italian sparkler at the retailer nearest you. It offers toasted
bread, lemon curd and toasted almond on the fresh finish. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
Rotari 2007 AlpeRegis Millesimato Extra
Brut (Trento). A brand new product from the
folks at Rotari, AlpeRegis is a fresh and vibrant sparkling wine that offers easy-drinking appeal with subtle
hints of elegance and sophistication that set it apart.
Baked bread, apricot and citrus notes flavor the finish.
Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
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Dorigo NV Blanc de Noir Dosage Zero
P(Friuli). With some barrel-aging at the back,
this Pinot Nero-based sparkler shows a sassy and sophisticated side with apricot, honey, cinnamon and a touch
of white pepper. Warm tones of baked bread and spice
fill in the rear. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
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Dorigo NV Cuvée Brut (Friuli). This sparkling blend (50-50 Chardonnay and Pinot
Nero) represents one of only a handful of barrel aged
metodo classico wines from Friuli in northeast Italy. The
wine’s perlage is firm and steely and there are soft layers of toasted bread, stone fruit and honey at the back.
Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $38
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other sparkling
wines
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Colutta NV Brut Ribolla Gialla (Friuli
Venezia Giulia). Colutta is a fun and consistent producer from northeast Italy who works with
a long list of indigenous grapes. This sparkling Ribolla
Gialla is redolent of exotic spice, stone fruit and dried
herb. There’s a very perky and sharp quality to the close.
Wine Emporium. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $28
Colutta NV Brut Rosé (Friuli Venezia Giulia). This is a light pink sparkling wine that
shows tones of wild berry and sweet grapefruit. There
are no complications here and a touch of sweetness on
the close makes it perfect for afternoon sipping. Wine
Emporium. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
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Berlucchi NV Cuvée ’61 Rosé (Franciacorta). For full review see page 6.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
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Contadi Castaldi NV Brut Rosè (Franciacorta). You’ll love the soft and subtle way
this light pink sparkler spreads throughout the mouth.
A sensation of plush volume is backed by creamy foam
and delicate tones of wild berry, pink grapefruit and
freshly baked bread. Terra Moretti Trading. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $34
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Ronco Calino NV Brut Satèn (Franciacorta). Elegant and creamy, with pretty highlights
of peach, melon and toasted bread, this beautiful Italian
sparkler makes a perfect opener for a long and sophisticated meal. Foamy effervescence gives the wine depth
and persistency. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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Ronco Calino NV Brut Rosé Radijan
(Franciacorta). This rosé sparker opens with
a pale pink color and pretty aromas of stone fruit, pink
grapefruit and toasted bread. It feels soft and creamy
with tightly spaced and elegant perlage. Michael
Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
Oltrepò Pavese
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Tenuta Il Bosco NV Oltrenero Cuvée Brut
(Oltrepò Pavese). A sour note of bitter almond appears on the outset of this Pinot Nero-based
metodo classico sparkling wine. Beyond that is apricot,
honey and wild berry with some yeasty tones as well.
Zonin USA. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
85
Castello di Luzzano 2011 Magót (Oltrepò
Pavese). This frizzante expression of Pinot
Nero (made as a white wine) opens with a transparent
color and thick white foam. It delivers aromas of white
flower, citrus and peach and shows balanced acidity
against those soft bubbles. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Tenuta Il Bosco NV Oltrenero Cruasé
Brut (Oltrepò Pavese). This is a fresh sparkling rosé wine that opens with thin aromas of cranberry
and wild berry alongside subtle tones of bitter almond
and apricot. The wine is very easy and informal overall.
Zonin USA. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Canti NV Moscato (Pavia). This is a fresh
and easy Moscato that shows sweet tones of
honey and peach nectar with background tones of white
almond and melon. The wine is softly fizzy and creamy
on the close. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $9
northern italy
still wines
soave
Latium di Morini 2011 Campo le Calle (Soave). A spicy note of cinnamon or bitter almond opens the nose of this tangy Soave. In the
mouth, it delivers layers of stone fruit, honey, pineapple
and pear. Pair this vineyard-designate white with roasted eggplant in curry sauce. The high alcohol does stand
out. Jan D’Amore Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2011 Fontana
(Soave). The aromas on this Soave are absolutely beautiful and the wine offers just the right density
in the mouth to support all that preach and citrus intensity. This is a lovely Soave to pair will grilled shrimp
or fish tacos. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Best Buy.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
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Corte Adami 2012 Soave. Easy, fresh and
delightful, pair this lively Soave with fried calamari or sardines. The wine offers easy aromas of citrus,
tangerine, yellow flower and melon. The mouthfeel is
silky and fresh. Dionysus Imports Inc. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
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Fattori 2011 Motto Piane (Soave). Made
with partially appassita, or air-dried, grapes, this
is an excellent Soave that delivers amazing intensity and
generous aromas of candied fruit, apricot and melon. It
feels exceedingly soft and decadent on the close. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Roccolo Grassi 2010 La Broia (Soave).
Like all the wines created by Roccolo Grassi,
you can really feel that extra push towards quality and
elegance here. La Broia is an oak-aged Soave with a soft
consistency and loads of peach, tangerine, melon and
white fruit intensity. The finish is smooth and creamy.
Chambers & Chambers. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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Corte Adami 2010 Vigna della Corte
(Soave). This thick and creamy expression of
the Garganega grape (the main component of all Soave
whites) delivers melon, peach, tangerine skin and white
almond. The wine is soft and round on the close. Pair
it with white meat or shellfish. Dionysos Imports Inc..
Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
Cantina di Soave 2011 Re Midas (Soave).
You can’t beat the price versus quality ratio on
offer here. Yes, this is an easy and thin wine, but it also
delivers just enough fruit freshness and personality to
pair with easy vegetable dishes or salads. Great for pool
side parties or barbecues. MW Imports. Best Buy.
—M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
Corte Adami 2011 Soave. A green, grassy
quality that recalls lime and garden herb first
opens the nose of this bright Soave. The wine is easy
and thin with a drying touch of talc powder on the close.
Dionysos Imports Inc. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
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Pasqua 2011 Famiglia Pasqua (Soave).
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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Dal Cero Tenuta di Corte Giacobbe 2011
Corte Giacobbe (Soave). Here’s an easy and
fresh white wine to drink with bruschetta or informal
finger foods. The wine is crisp and light with endnotes
of white peach, citrus and pear. Know Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
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Corte Falco 2010 Soave. Here’s a pure
expression of the Garganega grape that sees
(in part) 8 months of oak aging for extra density and
thickness. The wine shows spicy notes of cinnamon and
white pepper backed by peach and candied fruit. Genova Imp. & Exp. Corp. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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soave classico
Giale 2010 Crù (Soave). This is a bold and
ripe expression of Soave with soft fruit characteristics of peach and ripe melon backed by fragrant yellow
flower. A extra touch of acidity would help the wine feel
fresher on the close. American Beverage Group. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Marcato 2011 I Prandi (Soave). Very clean,
compact and fresh, here is a Soave to pair with
take-away Chinese food. The wine is acidic and light
with subtle aromas of peach, citrus and white flower.
Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
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Coffele 2011 Cà Visco (Soave Classico).
There’s a lot of personality here that gives this
Soave Classico a clear competitive advantage in the vast
world of Italian white wine. That extra thickness in the
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mouth and that extra peach and melon aromatic intensity makes this a perfect choice for white meat or salt
water fish. Peter Warren Selections. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Prà 2011 Monte Grande (Soave Classico). A blend of Garganega (80%) with 20%
Trebbiano, this fruit-forward Soave Classico is aged in
large oak casks for extra density and personality. Indeed,
it shows a sophisticated style with yellow rose and stone
fruit followed by vanilla and almond nut. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Suavia 2010 Monte Carbonare (Soave
Classico). Suavia is one of the best producers of Soave wine. This expression shows beautiful fullness in the mouth with a bright citrus finished backed
by endnotes of melon and peach. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $33
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Cantina di Monteforte 2011 Re Teodorico (Soave Classico). This pretty white wine
would pair perfectly with salads, fresh water fish or grilled
tuna. Stone fruit and honeydew melon give it a clean and
lively mouthfeel. Solstars Inc. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
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Gini 2011 Gini (Soave Classico). The nice
thing about Gini’s Soave Classico is the way it
feels in the mouth. There’s structure and natural creaminess here that comes from the quality of the fruit. The
wine, in fact, is only aged in stainless steel. It ends with
layers of peach and honeydew melon. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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Le Battistelle 2010 Battistelle (Soave
Classico). Aged only in stainless steel, this
fresh Soave Classico from the hills of northern Italy shows lemony and citrus-like freshness with simple
lines and balanced acidity. There’s a touch of sweet almond on the close. Bonhomie Wine Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
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Prà 2011 Staforte (Soave Classico). Fresh
citrus and stone fruit give this Soave Classico a
very bright and lively feel. It’s an easy, food-freindly
wine produced in the informal but cheerful style that
characterizes this white wine region in northern Italy.
Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Suavia 2011 Soave Classico. The dynamic
sisters that run this estate deliver a clean and
territory-driven line of white wines. This easy Soave
Classico opens with peach, pear, citrus and a touch of
fragrant honeysuckle flower. It’s pure and focused overall. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
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Cantine Lenotti di Lenotti 2011 Capocolle (Soave Classico). Here’s the quintessential Soave Classico that veers on the side of informality and easy-drinking appeal. The wine is redolent
of white peach, citrus and Golden Delicious apple. BelVino LLC. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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Coffele 2011 Soave Classico. Here’s an
easy-drinking Soave Classico that opens with
fresh fruit, citrus and a dusty touch of mineral at the
back. Crisp and bright, it would pair with light summer
meals. Peter Warren Selections. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
Fattori 2011 Runcaris (Soave Classico).
Runcaris is the easiest of Fattori’s three Garganega-based wines. It shows beautiful notes of citrus
and honeydew melon with flavors of white peach and
a touch of exotic fruit. The wine does show pretty aromatic intensity. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
Le Mandolare 2011 Il Roccolo (Soave
Classico). Exotic fruit and pineapple open the
nose of this bright Italian white. The wine shows slightly
more heft and determination than your average Soave
Classico and the mouthfeel delivers creamy peach and a
long finish. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
Prà 2011 Soave Classico. Citrus, cut grass,
white almond skin, peach and melon all play a
roll in the aromatic intensity of this white wine. In the
mouth, it offers medium creaminess with more peach
on the close. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Santi 2011 Vigneti di Monteforte (Soave
Classico). Soave Classico is a wonderful wine
to wash down grilled shrimp or spicy foods from Vietnam or Thailand. This expression shows bright aromas
of lemon grass and lime with endnotes of melon and a
white peach. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
86
Villa Girardi 2011 Soave Classico. Garganega (90%) with a tiny percentage of Trebbiano is aged only in stainless steel to offer very fresh
aromas of lemon, peach, white almond and honeydew
melon. The wine is crisp and streamlined overall. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $14
85
Balestri Valda 2011 Soave Classico.
There’s a surprising amount of structure here
that is rarely seen in Italian whites, especially Soave
Classico. The wine also delivers ripe aromas of peach,
melon and pineapple. FJN Fine Wines LLC. Best Buy.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
84
Cecilia Beretta 2011 Brognoligo (Soave
Classico). Yes, this wine treads deep on the
side of informality with a lean, watery mouthfeel and
subtle aromas of peach and pear. But there’s also just
enough territorial identity of Mediterranean herb and
dried sage to make it interesting. The price is just right
too. Pasqua USA LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
De Stefani 2010 Olmèra (Veneto). You
won’t find many wines like this on the market
today. The blend is Tai grapes with 30% Sauvignon. The
bouquet is broad and intense with complex aromas of
peach, apricot, cinnamon, passion fruit, toasted almond
and butterscotch. In the mouth, the texture is long,
creamy and soft. Bon Vivant Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
Anselmi 2011 San Vincenzo (Veneto).
Here is a ripe and creamy blend of Garganega, Chardonnay and Sauvignon that offers slightly oxidized aromas of butterscotch, caramel and apricot. At
the back, the wine delivers toasted almond and candied
fruit. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Cescon Italo Storia e Vini 2008 Mejo Sauvignon (Veneto). Mejo shows great ambitions
with oak-driven tones of spice and vanilla that cover
some of the aromatic freshness of the grape. Peach, tangerine and apricot appear on the close. Bacco Imports
LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Cescon Italo Storia e Vini 2011 Svejo
Manzoni (Veneto). This white wine from the
Manzoni grape in northern Italy shows some heaviness
and density in the mouth that is reinforced by ripe cantaloupe melon and apricot. The finish is waxy and thick.
Bacco Wine & Spirit, LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
85
San Giuseppe 2011 Pinot Grigio (Veneto). This is an easy Pinot Grigio that can be employed during informal drinking occasions. Bright citrus
and melon ride an easy and somewhat short finish. Try
it with Chinese take-out. Vintwood International Ltd.
—M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
84
Bonotto delle Tezze 2012 Pinot Grigio
(Veneto). Here’s a simple and clean white
wine with straightforward appeal and a frank, upfront
nature. Cut grass, lemon and honeydew melon describe
the bouquet. Venezia Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $9
84
Canti 2011 Pinot Grigio (Veneto). Easy
and fresh, you could pair this Italian white with
freshwater fish or grilled shrimp. It delivers one-dimensional tones of citrus, peach and melon. Prestige Wine
Group. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
84
Conselve 2011 Tramontana Pinot Grigio
(Veneto). Tramontana refers to northern winds
that wash across Italy. With those winds as inspiration,
this easy Pinot Grigio opens with a lean, watery mouthfeel and crisp endnotes of melon and lemon. Luxe Vintages. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
84
Domenico Cavazza 2012 Classic Line Pinot Grigio (Veneto). Here’s a fun and easydrinking Pinot Grigio (in a screw cap bottle) that delivers bright citrus, melon and dried hay. The mouthfeel is
very simple with a smooth, waxy feel and a slightly sweet
endnote. Catamarca Imports LLC. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
84
Natale Verga 2012 Pinot Grigio (Veneto).
This is a grassy and lemony expression of Pinot
Grigio with easy lines and a touch of bright acidity on
the close. Pair the wine with Thai mango salad. Jandell
Selections. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
84
TerrAmore 2011 Pinot Grigio (Veneto).
Made with organically-farmed fruit, this simple
Pinot Grigio shows easy melon and citrus backed by yellow candy and a slightly waxy feel on the close. Saranty
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
84
Villa Cornaro 2011 Limited Selection Pinot Grigio (Veneto). This is one of those fun,
easygoing Italian Pinot Grigios that tastes great on a hot
summer afternoon. The wine is crisp, light and lean with
simple endnotes of citrus and melon. Rolivia, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $14
82
Cantine dei Colli Tramonte NV Seven
Daughters Moscato (Veneto). This is an
offbeat Moscato-based wine with aromas of peppermint
and peach syrup that somehow work in unity. The wine
offers soft, creamy fizz and a touch of delicate sweetness. Terlato Wines International. —M.L.
abv: 7%
Price: $15
other veneto wines
88
Zenato 2009 Sergio Zenato Riserva Trebbiano di Lugana (Lugana). This handsome
bottle of white wine opens to creamy aromas of stone
fruit and cantaloup melon backed by vanilla mousse and
even a distant touch of cinnamon spice. The mouthfeel
is smooth and soft. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
87
Albino Armani 2011 Corvara Pinot Grigio
(Valdadige). There’s a very crisp and pristine
quality to this Pinot Grigio that seems to shine through
thanks to the intensity of its citrus, peach and melon aromas. The wine is fresh and lively on the palate. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
87
Domenico Cavazza 2008 Memorio Creari
(Gambellara Classico). Made with the indigenous Garganega grape (the same variety that makes
Soave), this richly extracted white wine opens with an
off-gold color and ripe notes of apricot and peach nectar. Casa Torelli. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
87
Sartori 2011 Ferdi Garganega (Veronese). Ferdi is an innovative expression of
Garganega that is partially made with air-dried grapes
for extra aromatic intensity and is also aged on the lees
for a creamy mouthfeel and texture. Indeed, there
is more pulp here and the wine shows pretty mineral
notes at the back. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
nose is indeed slightly muddled but the wine does deliver cool climate tones of white peach and fragrant flower.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
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red wines
Zenato 2011 San Benedetto Trebbiano
di Lugana (Lugana). A great choice for easy
appetizers and hors d’oeuvres, this fresh northern Italian
white offers defined notes of citrus, melon and apricot. In
the mouth, the wine is easy and fresh. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
86
Domenico Cavazza 2011 Bocara (Gambellara Classico). Bocara is a simple rendition of the Garganega grape that shows easy lines and
bright tones of lemon rind, tangerine skin and honeydew melon. There’s a fatty, or waxy element to the
mouthfeel that is followed by bright acidity. Casa Torelli. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $18
85
Pizzolato 2011 Pinot Grigio (Venezia).
There’s a sweet touch of ripe peach and pineapple
here followed by fragrant citrus and tangerine skin. This
is an easy expression of Pinot Grigio that shows soft peach
notes on the close. Natural Merchants LLC. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
90
Colterenzio 2009 St. Daniel Riserva Pinot Nero (Alto Adige). This is a clean and
polished Pinot Nero that offers bright berry nuances
of wild raspberries and white cherries followed by just
enough spice and tobacco to give it length and substance. The fresh acidity and delicate mouthfeel that
follow are very attractive attributes. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
90
Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2009 Pfarrhof
Riserva Pinot Nero (Alto Adige). Italy
shows that it is capable of great Pinot Nero thanks to
this delicate expression from the far north of the country. Light berry nuances are followed by pressed violets,
almond and a savory touch of dark tobacco. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
other northern
italy whites
Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2010 Pinot Nero
(Alto Adige). Here’s a fresh and feminine expression of Pinot Nero with nuances of wild berry and
white cherry followed by light touches of spice and almond
skin. Balanced acidity and a lively finish make the wine very
enjoyable indeed. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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88
Les Crêtes 2009 Cuvée Bois Chardonnay
(Valle d’Aosta). Aged nine months in oak, this
beautiful Chardonnay from the far north of Italy (with
high-altitude vineyards in the Valle d’Aosta surrounded by snow-capped peaks) opens with aromas of melted butter, pineapple, exotic fruit, candied apricot and a
touch of cinnamon. The wine has none of the heaviness
of oaked Chardonnay from the New World. In fact, it is
surprisingly graceful and elegant overall. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $85
89
Vigna Traverso 2011 Ribolla Gialla (Colli
Orientali del Friuli). This lovely Ribolla Gialla
offers thick richness and intensity that entices but never goes overboard. Lingering tones of peach, grapefruit
and candied fruit fill in the rear. Uva Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $27
88
Les Crêtes 2011 Chardonnay (Valle
d’Aosta). Here’s a balanced and bright Chardonnay from a cool climate region in northern Italy that
shows crisp aromas of peach and citrus followed by light
shadings of spice and bitter almond. The wine is silky
and smooth with more citrus on the close. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
87
Nino Negri 2011 Ca’ Brione (Valtellina).
This blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Incrocio
Manzoni and Chiavennasca (another name for Nebbiolo, but in this case the red variety is vinified as a white
wine) originates in Sondrio, in the far north of Italy. The
Tenuta Klaus Lentsch 2009 Bachgart Pinot Nero (Alto Adige). This Pinot Nero from
the mountainous north of Italy opens with a touch of
tar and licorice backed by forest berry and dried herb.
The wine definitely shows a bold and masculine side of
this delicate grape variety. New Amsterdam Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
81
Duca del Frassino 2010 Pinot Noir-Merlot
(Venezia). A boxed wine, this blend of Pinot
Noir and Merlot is exceedingly simple and one-dimensional but could be served at an outdoor baseball game.
The mouthfeel is watery and thin. MW Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA/3 L
central italy
sparkling wines
lambrusco di
sorbera
86
Cantina di Sorbara NV Nicchia (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Lambrusco is engineered
to be one of the most food-friendly wines in Italy. The
acidity, effervescence and brightness of the fruit cuts
through the fat in cheesy pasta and lasagna. This expression adds delicate berry sweetness to the mix. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 8%
Price: $NA
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buyingguide
84
Cantina di Sorbara 2012 Villa Badia
(Lambrusco di Sorbara). Fresh, light and
clean, this pretty Lambrusco offers aromas of wild berries and a touch of chopped herb. In the mouth, the
wine is thin and pristine with balanced acidity. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
84
Cleto Chiarli 2012 Premium Vecchia
Modena (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Vecchia
Modena is a landmark label in the world of Lambrusco
and is often seen as one of the easiest and most straightforward expressions of the ruby-red sparkling wine. It
shows a light cherry color with bright raspberry and
blueberry flavors capped by white foam. Dalla Terra
Winery Direct. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
83
Cantina di Sorbara NV Amabile (Lambrusco di Sorbara). This sparkling red Lambrusco opens with a touch of pungent apple skin backed
by red berry and even a touch of leather or spice at the
back. This is indeed an amiable expression, so expect
tangy sweetness in the mouth. Solstars Inc. —M.L.
abv: 8%
Price: $NA
lambrusco graspa
rossa di castelvetro
and tart aromas of dark forest berry and blackberry. The
mouthfeel is simple and compact and the bubbly nature
of the wine adds plush softness to the finish. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $19
84
Cà Montanari 2012 Operapura (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). This is
one of those special Lambruscos that you know will pair
with regional foods such as tortellini with melted butter
and cheese. The wine’s bright fruit tones, crisp acidity
and delicate effervescence will keep the palate clean.
There’s a touch of sweetness on the thin finish. Grappoli
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $19
84
Cantina di Puianello 2012 Lambrusco
Grasparossa di Castelvetro. Very simple
and clean, this pretty Lambrusco offers fresh cherry and
blueberry with a touch of bitter almond on the close.
The wine would pair with pizza piled high with mozzarella cheese. Metropolis Wine Merchants, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $14
84
La Battagliola 2012 Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro. Bright, simple and
clean, here is a bubbly Lambrusco that opens with tones
of forest berry and wild strawberry followed by a touch
of bitter almond skin. Soilair Selection. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $18
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Cleto Chiarli 2012 Vigneto Enrico Cialdini (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). This Lambrusco shows an extra touch of sophistication that sets it apart from most of the industrial stuff on
the market. Dark berry and raspberries offer a linear and
bright mouthfeel. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
Fattoria Moretto NV Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro. Here’s a Lambrusco
executed in a frizzante secco style (bubbly but dry) that
represents the kind of wine locals regularly drink with
creamy pasta dishes. It opens with a dark purple color
and shows chewy grape flavors. Estelle Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $18
85
Fattoria Moretto NV Monovitigno (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro).
Creamy purple foam fills the glass and once the wine
relaxes it offers raw grape juice aromas with cherry soda
and blackberry preserves. The sparkling Lambrusco
boasts simple lines with a soft touch in the mouth. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $26
85
Tenuta Pederzana NV Il Grasparossa della Tradizione (Lambrusco Grasparossa di
Castelvetro). A savory note of spice and leather opens
the bouquet of this ruby colored sparkling wine from
central Italy. Dark fruit flavors are backed by a bitter
finish. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $24
85
Tenuta Pederzana 2012 Cantolibero
(Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Cantolibero opens with a dark inky appearance
Fattoria Moretto NV Amabile (Lambrusco
Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Boiled down
to simplistic and rustic terms, this amabile (or sweet)
Lambrusco opens with sweet cherry, blueberry and
thick purple foam that rises high in the glass. Estelle
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 10%
Price: $19
Medici Ermete NV Le Tenute Bocciolo
(Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). This lightly sparkling Lambrusco delivers a deep
purple color with aromas of wild grapes, forest berry
and ripe black cherry. There’s a sweet and slightly raw
element to the mouthfeel. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $NA
83
Tenuta Pederzana 2012 Gibe (Lambrusco
Grasparossa di Castelvetro). There’s a vein
of sourness, astringency and thinness in the mouth followed by bright berry fruit and plump cherry. This is a
light and straightforward bubbly Lambrusco that offers
a good introductory view of this traditional Italian bubbly red wine. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $19
lambrusco reggiano
85
Cantina di Puianello 2012 Contrada Borgoleto (Lambrusco Reggiano). Thick purple foam tops this bubbly Lambrusco as it sits in the
glass. In the mouth, the wine is semisecco, or slightly
sweet, and it delivers plump aromas of black fruit and
raspberry jam. Golden Horseshoe Inc. —M.L.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $17
84
Bertolani 2012 Rosè (Lambrusco Reggiano). Easy, simple and thin, this refreshing
rosé sparkling wine offers aromas of pink grapefruit and
raspberry. The mouthfeel is creamy and soft but the
firm perlage keeps the palate clean. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
84
Cantina di Puianello 2012 Primabolla
(Lambrusco Reggiano). This sparkling red
Lambrusco boasts a simple, but attractive quality of
fruit, with bursting notes of raspberry and wild strawberry. Creamy, bubbly foam and balanced acidity characterize the mouthfeel. In terms of Lambrusco, this
wine is very pleasurable with a sweet, plush close. Potomac Selections. —M.L.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $11
84
Medici Ermete 2011 Concerto (Lambrusco Reggiano). This dry sparkling red wine
opens with an inky dark color and offers pulpy tones
of raw fruit and blackberry jam with tart cherry and
cranberry on the finish. Domaine Select Wine Estates.
—M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $22
83
Bertolani 2012 Rosso all’Antica (Lambrusco Reggiano). Tart and slightly bitter flavors segue to creamy foam and a dry mouthfeel. This
sparkling Lambrusco feels thick and plush in the mouth
with loads of intense blackberry and raspberry on the
finish. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $16
82
Moro di Rinaldini 2011 Lambrusco Reggiano. Frizzy and fun, this red semi-sparkler offers aromas of red beet, moist earth, black fruit and cherry cola. There’s an earthy quality to the wine followed by
bright acidity. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $15
other lambrusco
85
Cantina Ceci 2012 Otello Nero di Lambrusco (Emilia). Here’s a ripe and plump Lambrusco with bright aromas of black cherry and raspberry jam.
The wine feels generous and soft in the mouth with foamy
cream on the close. Rosalie Sendelbach Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $19
85
Monte delle Vigne NV Lambrusco (Emilia). Juicy dark berry fruit and ripe blackberry
open the bouquet of this Frizzante red wine. There’s
a tangy raw quality to the wine that would pair next to
cheesy lasagna. Lambrusco Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
84
Albinea Canali NV Ottocentonero (Lambrusco dell’Emilia). A sub-brand of Riunite,
Albinea Canali’s Ottocentonero shows simple, easy lines
with raw fruit, cherry and almond paste. It’s a dry Lam-
brusco without some of the bitterness you sometimes
encounter with these wines. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $13
84
Bertolani 2012 Granarossa Lambrusco
(Emilia). A tart mouthfeel with layers of cherry and cranberry fruit is enhanced by this bubbly Lambrusco’s dark ruby color. This is a dry expression with
plump, fruity density in the mouth. Villa Italia. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $16
84
Cà Montanari 2012 Opera 02 Amabile
(Lambrusco di Modena). Bright red fruit,
raspberry and blueberry open the bouquet of this pleasantly fragrant Lambrusco. There’s a touch of sticky
sweetness in the mouth followed by creamy foam. A.I.
Selections. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $17
84
Venturini Baldini 2012 Lambrusco (Emilia). Tart and slightly bitter, this Lambrusco has
all the right qualities to pair with fettuccine in cream
sauce. Bright berry flavors are followed by creamy foam
and fresh acidity. Porto Vino Italiano. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
84
Venturini Baldini 2012 Roncolo Lambrusco (Emilia). Tart flavors of sour cherry and
cranberry add dimension to a mouthfeel that is characterized by balanced acidity, soft texture and creamy
foam. The wine would make a great companion to buttery foods. Haw River Wine Man. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
83
Cà Montanari 2012 Opera 02 (Lambrusco di Modena). Executed in a dry style, this
bubbly Lambrusco has the acidity and heft to pair with
tortellini in melted butter sauce and grated parmigiano
cheese. The wine opens with a bright purple color and
raw flavors of black cherry and grape juice. Grappoli
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $17
83
Cantine Ceci 2012 La Luna Spago Lambrusco (Emilia). Raw grapes and wild berry
describe the nose. This sparkling Lambrusco shows
some bitterness followed by very lively fresh fruit flavors. The bottle is closed with the traditional spago (or
string) and delivers thick, purple froth when poured
into the glass. Rosalie Sendelbach Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $17
82
Cantine Riunite NV Lambrusco (Emilia).
With an astonishing 1.5 million cases produces,
this historic red sparkling red wine from central Italy offers a sweet palate with easy raspberry and cherry aromas. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 8%
Price: $6
82
Moro di Rinaldini 2011 Picol Ross Brut
Lambrusco (Emilia-Romagna). A happy
tradition of Emilia-Romagna, this frizzante Lambrusco opens with foxy notes of raw grapes and blackberry.
There’s a touch of bitter almond on the close. Montcalm
Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $22
colli piacentini
84
Luretta 2009 On attend les Invites (Colli Piacentini). Here’s a light pink sparkling
wine (made with Pinot Nero) that opens with a touch of
matchstick that needs a few minutes to blow off. Otherwise, the bouquet is redolent of pink rose, raspberry
and cranberry with a touch of baked bread. Flavors Of
Italy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
83
Tenuta Villa Tavernago 2012 Querido
Rosé Frizzante (Colli Piacentini). Here’s
a foamy, frizzante rosato made with organically-farmed
fruit from a little-known wine region in northern Italy. Wild berry and raspberry open the bouquet and although there is a trace of sweetness the wine could otherwise be classified as dry. First Tier Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
82
Luretta NV Principessa Brut (Colli Piacentini). This sparkling Chardonnay from central Italy offers charred aromas of toasted almond followed by a thin, watery mouthfeel and a strong citrus
aftertaste. Flavors Of Italy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
other sparkling
wines
85
Cantine Ceci 2012 Otello Rosè Extra Dry
(Emilia). Packaged in an elegant bottle with a
squarish-squat shape, this pretty Rosé sparkler opens
with aromas of Granny Smith apple, citrus and a touch
of sweet peach. The perlage is tonic and steely and
would pair with spicy Indian samosas. Rosalie Sendelbach Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
85
Cleto Chiarli 2012 Rosè Brut de Noir (Romagna). Delicate and light with a pale pink
color and creamy white foam on the surface, this is a
great little sparkling aperitivo wine to pair with spicy
tapas or finger foods. Rose, raspberry and a touch of
strawberry open the fragrant bouquet. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $16
84
La Mancina 2010 Pignoletto (Colli Bolognesi). Pignoletto is a little-known grape variety
that is rarely produced as a mono-varietal expression.
It’s even rarer to see it in a sparkling, or frizzante, version like this: Sweet floral aromas are backed by bright
peach nectar. Tesori Wines. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
84
Venturini Baldini 2012 Malvasia (Emilia).
Fragrant Malvasia tones of honey and white
jasmine open the bouquet of this easy-going sparkling
wine. The bubbling is light and delicate and the wine
ends on a sweet note of Golden Delicious apple. Porto
Vino Italiano. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
82
Gaggioli 2012 Pignoletto (Colli Bolognesi). Thin and streamlined, this fresh sparkler offers mild aromas of peach and white flower. The wine is
very simple and basic with a touch of sweetness on the
close. Baldocchino Fine Wines . —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
Central italy
red wines
sangiovese di
romagna
90
Fattoria Zerbina 2008 Pietramora Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore).
Pietramora Riserva is a dark and masculine wine with
aromas of blackberry, black cherry and plum backed by
soft renderings of spice, rum cake and leather. The wine
shows nice density that is filling without being heavy.
Europvin. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $45
88
Fattoria Zerbina 2008 Torre di Ceparano
Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore). This pretty expression of Sangiovese delivers a
sweet touch of cherry fruit and vanilla backed by dried
ginger, cola and rose petal. The wine is polished and
smooth although the tannic structure pulls it together
nicely. Europvin. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $24
88
Giovanna Madonia 2008 Ombroso Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore).
Pipe and chewing tobacco appear at first and are followed by mature tones of prune, plum and dark spice.
This masculine and brawny expression has the acidity to
pair with deep pan pizza piled high with toppings. Epic
Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
88
Poderi Morini 2009 Nonno Rico Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore).
Dark tobacco tones and spice open the austere bouquet
of this dark and well extracted Sangiovese Riserva. The
wine is redolent of tar, spice, black fruit, cola and resin.
It’s very masculine and muscular for this otherwise gentle grape. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
88
Stefano Berti 2008 Calisto Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore). Give this
Sangiovese Riserva a few minutes in the glass to open.
Once it does, this dense and richly concentrated expression offers raw notes of black cherry and spice with
moist pipe tobacco at the back. MHW, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $38
87
Giovanna Madonia 2010 Fermavento
(Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore).
Here’s a traditional take on Sangiovese that offers pretty
berry tones with cola, dried ginger and dark spice. The
acidity and the freshness of the mouthfeel suggests a
pairing with four-cheese piazza. Epic Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
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Poderi dal Nespoli 1929 2010 Il Nespoli Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore). Dark fruit and astringent tannins make for a
bold and hearty first impression. This Sangiovese Riserva
opens with a dark inky color and delivers aromas of prune,
plum, cola, tar and old spice. Pair it with aged Pecorino
cheese. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
87
Poderi Morini 2011 Torre di Oriolo (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore). This interpretation of Sangiovese opens with sweet fruit on the
bouquet that recalls plump cherry and blueberry. The
wine is tart and easy on the close with a pretty blast of
fresh acidity. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
87
Villa Bagnolo 2009 Bagnolo (Sangiovese
di Romagna). This is an elegant Sangiovese
from central Italy that follows simple lines with bright
tones of cherry, dried blueberry and a touch of dried
ginger that gives the bouquet an aromatic life. In the
mouth, the wine is fresh and compact with polished texture. Artisans & Vines. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
86
Castelluccio 2011 Le More (Romagna).
This is a delightfully fresh and informal Sangiovese with pretty tones of cherry and blueberry backed
by a tight mouthfeel and fresh acidity. Lingering tones
of ginger and cola appear on the streamlined finish.
Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
84
Poderi dal Nespoli 1929 2011 Prugneto (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore).
Here’s a very correct and clean Sangiovese with bright
cherry nuances and blueberry followed by a touch of
bitter almond. The mouthfeel is thin, easy and watery.
Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
84
Stefano Berti 2011 Bartimeo (Romagna).
From the Predappio area of Romagna in central Italy, this Sangiovese offers rustic aromas of tar and
licorice backed by black fruit and prune. There’s a savory quality on the close with cured meat and tobacco.
MHW, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
84
Stefano Berti 2010 Ravaldo (Sangiovese
di Romagna Superiore). Ravaldo is sour and
bitter wine that needs to be paired with cheesy lasagna with thick Béchamel sauce to find balance. You’ll
sense bright berry and cranberry with a sharp and edgy
mouthfeel. MHW, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
82
Caviro 2011 Tavernello Sangiovese (Romagna). This wine is simple and thin, with moderate notes of red cherry and plum, but it’s solidly done
and the winemaking is clean. Luneau USA Inc. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $7
emilia
seems to rev up quickly in the mouth but ultimately feels
short on the mid palate. Esprit du Monde LLC. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
88
Lamoretti 2006 Vinnalunga (Emilia-Romagna). You can feel how this wine attempts
greatness both in the thickness of the extraction and
the intensity of the aromas. But there are those bitter
and burnt notes that hold it back just a bit. Otherwise
it delivers loads of bright red fruit and prune. Esprit du
Monde LLC. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
87
Lamoretti 2008 Vigna del Guasto (EmiliaRomagna). This thin and savory wine from the
Colli di Parma appellation in central Italy offers bright
spice and leather with subtle tones of cassis and dried
prune. Pair it with homemade pasta or ravioli with ricotta cheese. Esprit du Monde LLC. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
83
Costa Archi 2009 Il Beneficio (EmiliaRomagna). The IGT appellation is Ravenna
(in the Emilia-Romagna region). Il Beneficio opens
with bitter fruit notes followed by sweet tones and dark
spice. The wine is slightly disjointed and very intense
overall (in terms of alcohol too). Sunrise Wines . —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $28
other red wines
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86
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90
85
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Fattoria Zerbina 2011 Ceregio (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore). This Sangiovese from central Italy offers a very fresh and vibrant
quality of fruit that is expressed as cherry, blackberry
and sour plum. It’s a simple, one-dimensional wine and
its best attribute is precisely that. Europvin. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Poderi Morini 2011 MorAle (Sangiovese
di Romagna Superiore). MorAle offers tight
and simple fruit tones with raspberry, blueberry and red
rose petal. The mouthfeel is simple and clean with balanced freshness on the close. OZ Wine Company. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
Celli 2011 Le Grillaie (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore). Le Grillaie offers easy
fruit tones of cherry and blackberry with touches of cola
and licorice at the back. This simple red white would
pair well with a heaping plate of pasta and meat sauce.
Tuttovino LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
85
Villa Bagnolo 2009 Sassetto (Sangiovese
di Romagna Superiore). This is a sweet and
ripe expression of Sangiovese that shows tones of cherry liqueur followed by a touch of wild strawberry. This
easy-drinking wine shows loads of easy, fresh fruit. Artisans & Vines. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
Monte delle Vigne 2009 Nabucco (Emilia). Nabucco is a blend of Barbera and Merlot that offers a pretty dark appearance and fresh notes
of cherry, blackberry tart and tobacco. The tannins are
smooth and long and there’s a pretty touch of acidity on
the close. Lambrusco Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
La Stoppa 2007 Macchiona (Emilia). This
is a dark and brooding blend of Barbera and
Bonarda that veers towards tobacco, leather and tar to
such a far extreme, the fruit is almost overwhelmed in
the bouquet. Prune and cassis do make an appearance
on the palate, and there’s a ripe-fruit note on the close.
Louis/Dressner Selections. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $28
Torre Fornello 2011 Dorian (Emilia). Here’s
a great deal from central Italy. Dark with mature
fruit and spice, this easy red wine would pair with pork or
white meat. It offers a pleasing touch of rich sweetness on
the close. Mucci Imports. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
emilia-romagna
88
Lamoretti 2007 Serbato (Emilia-Romagna). Serbato is a thick and savory red wine from
central Italy that offers toasted notes of spice and tobacco backed by a plush and velvety mouthfeel. The wine
Castelluccio 2008 Massicone Cabernet
Sauvignon (Forlì). A pure expression of Cabernet Sauvignon from central Italy, this darkly concentrated wine offers aromas spice, chocolate, dark fruit,
leather and tobacco. It’s a plush and modern wine with
clear oak influences and softness. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
Umberto Cesari 2010 Liano (Rubicone).
Liano is a beautiful blend of Sangiovese and
Cabernet Sauvignon that will surprise you with its deep
chocolate fudge and exotic spice with black cherry and
blackberry. This bold and opulent expression offers a
long, soft and velvety finish. An amazing step forward
over past vintages. Opici Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
La Tosa 2011 Vignamorello (Gutturnio
Classico Superiore). This blend of Barbera
and Bonarda opens with an inky dark appearance and
offers fresh aromas of plump cherry fruit, cola and cherry liqueur. The wine is thick, dense and slightly sweet
with an almost syrupy finish. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
88
Drei Donà Tenuta La Palazza 2009 Magnificat Cabernet Sauvignon (Forlì). There’s
a bitter tinge to this Cabernet Sauvignon that segues
to raw blackberry fruit, prune, cola, black licorice and
leather. The mouthfeel is thick and compelling. Vedi
Vintners Estates Direct Importing . —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
87
Torre Fornello 2005 Diacono Gerardo
1028 Riserva (Gutturnio Colli Piacentini).
From the long ago 2005 vintage, this riserva offers simple aromas of cassis and plum backed by pressed violets,
cola and tar. The close is acidic and somewhat bitter.
Mucci Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
86
La Mancina 2009 Foriere Barbera (Colli
Bolognesi). Here’s a pure expression of Barbera from central Italy that offers sharp acidity backed
by cranberry, tart berry and cherry liqueur. Pair this wine
with cannelloni in Béchamel sauce. Tesori Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
84
Tenuta Villa Tavernago 2012 Il Balòss
Cabernet Sauvignon (Colli Piacentini).
Made with organically-farmed fruit, this Cabernet Sauvignon offers a hint of spice and natural rubber at the
outset that is followed by black fruit, red cherry and
cola. There’s a raw or sharp feel in the mouth. First Tier
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
tuscany
white wines
88
Le Buche 2011 Olivi Coreno (Toscana).
Coreno is a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia
that represents two of the most important grapes found
in central Italy. The nose is sweet and soft with tones of
melon, honey, stone fruit and yellow rose. There’s a buttery note of toasted almond at the back. Supreme Wines
& Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
88
Le Buche 2011 Olivi Orhora Verdicchio
(Toscana). This blend of Verdicchio (90%),
Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc opens with fragrant aromas of honeysuckle, white rose, exotic fruit and papaya. The wine shows balanced structure and acidity
with long endnotes of peach and yellow fruit. Supreme
Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
88
Podere Guado al Melo 2010 Guado al
Melo (Toscana). This blend of Vermentino
(70%), Fiano, Incrocio Manzoni, Verdicchio and Petit
Manseng opens with generous tones of peach, apricot,
lemon curd and soft almond paste. The wine is creamy
and silky on the long finish. Artisans & Vines. Editors’
Choice. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
88
Terenzi
2011
Balbino
Vermentino
(Maremma Toscana). Vermentino is one of
the latest hits from a long list of successful Italian white
wines. Crisp, clean and definitely marked by a green or
herbal note, the wine feels zesty and sharp on the palate. A dusting of crushed white pepper makes for a very
nice endnote. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
86
Jacopo Biondi-Santi 2011 Braccale (Toscana). This blend of Chardonnay (70%) and
Sauvignon opens with a touch of bitter almond followed
by peach, apricot and pineapple. Warm climate characteristics of smooth, creamy fruit are definitely evident
in this white wine from coastal Tuscany. Vision Wine &
Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
85
Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2011 Costa di
Nugola Vermentino (Toscana). Here’s the
quintessential Italian white wine to pair with fried calamari or mini pizzas. It offers fresh green notes of lime
and garden herb, backed by peach and cantaloupe accents. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $18
rosés
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Fattoria di Magliano 2012 Illario Rosato
(Maremma Toscana). This is a very attractive
rosato from coastal Tuscany that opens with a pale pink color and delicate aromas of rose petal and wild berry. There’s
a touch of sour cherry on the close. Opici Wines. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
85
Santa Cristina 2012 Rosato (Toscana).
From the larger Antinori group in Tuscany, this
opens with a pretty pink color and bright aromas of raspberry, wild cherry and white almond. Pair it with summer appetizers. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $14
84
91
Mazzei 2010 Fonterutoli (Chianti Classico). For full review see page 6. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
89
L’Antica Fornace di Ridolfo 2010 Cantalici (Chianti Classico). This is indeed a very
enjoyable Chianti Classico that shows bright fruit nuances of cherry and blackberry followed by spice, leather and dried tobacco. In the mouth, the wine is smooth,
medium in intensity but also bright and fresh. Roanoke
Valley Wine Company. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
Querciavalle 2007 Losi Millennium Riserva (Chianti Classico). There’s a dark and
austere quality to this Chianti Classico riserva that gives
it a very masculine personality. When aged, Sangiovese
tends to deliver aromas of candied fruit, cassis, tar and
licorice, and this wine does just that. Tricana Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $36
87
Pietro Beconcini 2009 Riserva (Chianti).
This deep and dark Chianti riserva opens with
slightly oxidized aromas of candied fruit and raspberry
roll-up. Cola, dark spice and bresaola round off the finish. Lyra Wine. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
86
Le Buche 2010 Olivi (Chianti Superiore).
This easy blend of Sangiovese (80%) and Merlot offers fresh cherry and dried raspberry notes with
touches of spice and leather, but only in distant shadings
at the back. The mouthfeel is crisp and tart. Supreme
Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
Cesani 2012 SeraRosa Sangiovese (Tuscany). SeraRosa is a full and generous rosato
with ripe berry and raspberry flavors followed by medium density and a noticeable touch of alcoholic heat.
Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
other tuscan reds
84
97
Grati 2012 Rosato Sangiovese (Tuscany). This bright pink rosato offers juicy notes
of ripe raspberry and forest berry. The quality of the
fruit is sticky and slightly sweet. New England Wine and
Spirits Inc. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $9
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93
Castello di Bossi 2009 Berardo Riserva
(Chianti Classico). This is an exceptional
Chianti Classico that sees two years in oak to bring out
those soft nuances of spice and tobacco. But that bright
Sangiovese fruit is never far, and it chimes in with crisp
freshness on the finish as well as tangy notes of wild berry and cherry. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
92
Barone Ricasoli 2009 Rocca Guicciarda
Riserva (Chianti Classico). For full review
see page 5.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $29
Marchesi Antinori 2009 Solaia (Toscana).
Like its sunshine-inspired name suggests, Solaia
is an opulent and generous achievement that represents
the highest pedigree in Italian wine. The intensity is
mind-blowing and the wine peels back slowly to reveal
thick layers of blackberry, chocolate fudge, spice and
general fruit decadence. The mouthfeel is super smooth
yet powerful, delivered in the most elegant fashion. Ste.
Michelle Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $325
96
Tenuta di Biserno 2008 Lodovico (Toscana). From the coastal Tuscan estate of
Lodovico Antinori (brother of Piero), here comes a gorgeous blend of Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot
and a small percentage of Petit Verdot. Soft chocolate
and black cherry opens the nose and segues to enormous richness and length. The wine is excellent but the
jury is out on whether it becomes one of the great cult
classics of Italy. Hold 10–20 years. Wade & Clark Wine
Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $280
95
Marchesi Antinori 2009 Tignanello (Toscana). The bottle that changed Italian wine
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buyingguide
forever, Tignanello is as modern and innovative as its
first vintage many decades ago. Soft blackberry and
cherry is backed by balanced spice, leather and toasted espresso. Those rich oak tones do a wonderful job
of holding up the wine’s natural richness and velvety
smoothness. Hold 10 years or more. Ste. Michelle Wine
Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $105
95
Tenuta di Biserno 2009 Biserno (Toscana). This beautiful blend of Cabernet Franc,
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon opens with bold intensity and personality. Yes, this is a plush and modern
wine, but it is also unforgettably delicious. Bright cherry
and blackberry are backed by chocolate, spice, leather
and pipe tobacco. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. Cellar
Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $180
93
Castello Banfi 2009 Summus (Toscana).
Summus is a delicious blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah that opens with a round and
soft bouquet with plush layers of blackberry, chocolate,
cherry liqueur, toasted almond, tobacco and leather.
There’s a slight bite to the tannins that will set this wine
forward many years in terms of its aging potential. Drink
after 2018. Banfi Vintners. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $69
93
Tenuta di Nozzole 2009 Il Pareto Cabernet Sauvignon (Toscana). A pure expression of Cabernet Sauvignon from one of the most historic estates in Tuscany, Il Pareto would make a worthy
partner to a succulent steak or roast beef. Dark fruit and
cherry is enhanced by leather and tobacco for a super
long and luscious finish. Kobrand. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $86
92
Castellare di Castellina 2007 30 Vendemmie (Toscana). Not a blend of grapes but a
blend of wines, 30 Vendemmie is equal parts I Sodi,
Coloniale and Poggio al Merli—the three great wines
of this estate. It shows dark richness and concentration
with bold cherry and blackberry backed by spice and a
soft, chocolaty finish. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $100
90
Inalto 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Here’s
a silky and traditional expression of Sangiovese
Grosso that opens with aromas of cola, dried berry fruit,
ginger and spice. The wine is treads lightly on the palate
with silky tannins and balanced acidity. Atlas Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $90
90
Paradisone 2007 Colle degli Angeli
(Brunello di Montalcino). Started in 1988,
the Colle degli Angeli Brunello project shows ripe blackberry and exotic spice that make for a smooth and velvety
wine. The ripeness of the fruit gives the one a bold, chewy
and immediate feel. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $90
88
Monte Antico 2009 Red (Toscana). Monte Antico—a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and
Cabernet Sauvignon—is a great value choice that shows
medium build in the mouth followed by bright notes
of cherry and wild berry. The mouthfeel is smooth and
spicy, but largely driven by simple, red fruit nuances.
Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
87
Castello di Volpaia 2009 Citto (Toscana).
Citto is an informal Tuscan red made with organically-farmed fruit that opens with bright cherry,
blueberry, light spice and leather. This is a very likable
wine with bright fruit freshness and all the easy qualities
needed to pair next to a heaping plate of fettuccine and
meat sauce. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
87
Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2009
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. There’s a
sweet note of bright cherry or blueberry that opens the
nose of this food-friendly Vino Nobile. Medium structure and bright acidity makes this a great choice to pair
with lasagna or cheesy pasta. Supreme Wines & Spirits.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
87
Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2009
Leone d’Oro Figli d’Italia (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). This is a plump Vino Nobile
that delivers red currant and cola on the nose followed
by meaty tones of smoked bacon and leather. In the
mouth, the wine feels crisp and lean with moderate intensity. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
other italian wines
southern italy
whites
86
Botromagno 2011 Fiano (Murgia). From
the warm climate of southern Italy, this bright
Fiano opens with a waxy mouthfeel and aromas of stone
fruit, pear and Golden Delicious apple. That extra glycerin in the mouth is balanced by endnotes of tangerine
and pineapple. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
85
Vetrère 2011 Laureato (Salento). Laureato
(“the graduate”) is a blend of 80% Chardonnay
and 20% Fiano that opens with a bright golden color
and slightly oxidized aromas of honey and caramel. At
the back, you’ll get exotic fruit and candied apricot.
The mouthfeel is bold and soft. Vera Food and Wine.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $29
84
Tenute Mater Domini 2011 Marangi Sauvignon Blanc (Salento). This is a bright and
fragrant Sauvignon from the deep south of Italy that
shows citrus and melon with back notes of almond and
dried sage. The wine does not offer the aromatic intensity of the variety but it does offer good structure on the
close. Soilair Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
sicilian whites
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Masseria del Feudo Grottarossa 2011 Il
Giglio (Sicilia). Forget industrial Pinot Grigio
when Italy offers so many new tastes thanks to its enormous patrimony of indigenous grapes. This blend of
Inzolia and Grillo, two of Sicily’s most important white
varieties, opens with citrus, honey and stone fruit. Massanois Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
86
Orion Wine 2011 È 100 Per Cento Unoaked Chardonnay (Sicilia). For full review
see page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
84
Villa Pozzi 2012 Pinot Grigio (Sicilia). This
easy-drinking Grigio from the deep south of Italy opens with bright lemon and peach followed by a
thick, waxy feel in the mouth. It could use a tad more
acidity to keep it fresh. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
other white wines
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Sella & Mosca 2011 Terre Bianche (Alghero). This is a landmark wine for Sardinia
that shows the amazing potential of the indigenous Torbato white grape. There’s amazing freshness here, and
brightness with an incredibly vibrant quality of citrus
and stone fruit. A mineral accent on the nose completes
this very pretty picture. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
86
Sella & Mosca 2011 La Cala (Vermentino
di Sardegna). La Cala is a fresh and vibrant
expression of Vermentino that shows bright notes of
lime and lemongrass backed by peach and honeydew
melon. That natural freshness will pair perfectly with
fried foods or calamari rings. Palm Bay International.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
83
Canti NV White (Italy). Described as medium-sweet on the label, this light white wine offers tones of peach nectar, honey and white flower. It is
a simple and one dimensional wine with a subtle touch
of sweetness on the close. Pair it with salty appetizers.
Prestige Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
other sparkling
wines
88
Planeta NV Brut Carricante (Sicilia). We
can now enjoy a lively little group of Sicilian producers who also make metodo classico sparkling wine.
This expression from the Carricante grape shows dry fruit
and mineral notes with background tones of fresh baked
bread and dried hay. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $36
88
Ruggeri & C. 2011 L’Extra Brut Millesimato (Italy). Ruggeri & C. is one of the best producers of Prosecco Superiore sparkling wine. This Extra
Brut expression does not carry the Prosecco designation, but it does show many of the fresh and cheerful
qualities associated with that category of Italian bubbly.
It is redolent of white flower and citrus and shows dusty
dryness on the close. Villa Italia. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
Terra Jovia 2008 Primitivo (Gioia del
Colle). This warm climate Primitivo opens
with subtle tones of dried herb and light spice that give
it a very Mediterranean feel. But there’s also a touch of
warm rubber that distracts from the overall picture. The
high alcohol adds extra heat on the close. Martin Ulisse
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
85
other dessert wines
Gionelli NV Moscato (Italy). Fresh, bright
and aromatic, this easygoing Moscato opens
with tones of white flower, jasmine, honey and dried
hay. The wine is pleasantly sweet with creamy mousse
and foam. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 7%
Price: $10
84
Santero NV Sara Bee Moscato (Puglia).
Here’s a Kosher, sweet white wine from Puglia
that opens with playful aromas of spring flower, honeysuckle, almond blossom and lemon mousse. The wine
feels and tastes similar to Moscato d’Asti, but is a hair
sweeter. Kosher. L. Watson, Inc. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $6
82
Vetrère NV Aureo Brut Fiano (Salento).
From the Murgia Tarantina high plains of the
Salento in the deep south of Italy, this thinly-composed
Fiano-based sparkling wine opens with oddly matched
aromas of lemon curd, yeast and toasted hazelnut. Vera
Food and Wine. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
81
84
Vetrère 2011 Cré Vendemmia Tardiva Fiano (Salento). This is a sweet and thin dessert wine with aromas of peach, pear and honey that are
muddled at times. The price is pretty good, however,
for those who want to try a late harvest Fiano Minutolo.
Vera Food and Wine. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
83
Vetrère 2011 Cré Fiano (Salento). This
pure expression of the Fiano Minutolo variety
opens with candied aromas of peach syrup and butterscotch. Honey and sweet fruit flavors fill the palate. Vera
Food and Wine. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
other rosés
86
Tenute Mater Domini 2011 Marangi Negroamaro (Salento). Made with the indigenous Negroamaro grape found in southern Italy, this
bright rosato shows sweet aromas of pink rose, grapefruit
and crushed mineral, followed by a linear texture and
fresh forest-berry endnotes. Soilair Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
83
Vetrère 2011 Taranta Negroamaro (Salento). Taranta is the name of a modern Tarantella
dance crazy sweeping across southern Italy at the moment. With this inspiration in mind, this bright rosato
offers cheerful tones of bright flower, white almond
and a touch of citrus. There’s a sweet, heavy note in the
mouth. Vera Food and Wine. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
other red wines
90
Farnese 2009 Edizione Cinque Autoctoni
(Italy). A symbolic expression of Italian winemaking, this blend of five grapes (Montepulciano, Primitivo, Sangiovese, Negroamaro and Malvasia) crosses regional borders and delivers various local wine traditions
in a single bottle. The wine is bold, rich and very masculine with huge vanilla oak spice, black cherry and chocolate. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
WineMag.com | 77
buyingguide
spirits
Island Time: Martinique Rums
W
hen it comes to rum, there’s no
doubt that the offerings from the
Caribbean island of Martinique are
unique. Compared to most other rums, which
are made from molasses, Martinique’s rums
are distilled from the concentrated juice of
the sugar cane.
The final product has the sweetness of
other rums, but often has other distinctive
characteristics as well—notably what’s often
described as “grassy” or “funky” aromas
and flavors. The latter often shows itself as a
banana- or tropical-fruit-like note.
In addition, some Martinique rums (or
“rhums,” as per the French spelling) display
a surprising salty tang, which some interpret
as briny or even bacon-like. When combined
with the mellow vanilla notes brought out by
barrel aging, some aged rhums read almost
like salted caramels—a pleasing and elusive
effect.
What’s the best way to drink Martinique
rum? Defer to rum expert Ed Hamilton, who
says, “For the first drink of the day, make mine
a Ti Punch.” Here’s Hamilton’s recipe: into
a lowball glass, pour a couple of ounces (or
more) of Martinique rum, then stir in sugar
cane syrup and lime juice to taste (drop the
lime wedges into the glass after squeezing out
the juice). Stir with plenty of ice, and slide into
island time.
In addition to Martinique rums, we’ve
also included several new rums from other
provenances below. —K ara Newman
97
and bitter chocolate notes. Add a little water to tame
the puckery tannins. Presented in an expensive-looking
teardrop-shaped bottle with a hefty rose-gold stopper.
abv: 44%
Price: $140
Homere Clement Rhum Vieux Agricole Hors d’Age (Martinique; MHW Ltd.,
Manhasset, NY). This absolutely delicious aged rum
evokes rich, creamy butterscotch and salted caramel
candies. Savor the extremely long finish of this sipping
rum, packaged in a striking squared bottle.
abv: 44%
Price: $100
96
Clement Aged 6 Years Tres Vieux Rhum
Agricole (Martinique; MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY). Look for concentrated toffee aromas and flavors, along with dry notes of coffee, chocolate, leather
and black tea in this supple and elegant rhum. The finish is softly spiced and lingers nicely.
abv: 44%
Price: $55
94
Neisson 15 Year Old (Martinique; Caribbean Spirits Inc., Chicago, IL). This notable new offering in the U.S. might be easily mistaken
for fine Bourbon. Give it some time in the glass to open
up and cast off some alcohol in the aroma, then enjoy
complex flavors of toffee, orange peel and dark chocolate. This has a luxe, velvety softness, despite the distinct 90-proof alcohol presence. Mouthwatering.
abv: 45%
Price: $300/1 L
96
92
95
90
Clement Rhum Vieux Agricole VSOP
(Martinique: MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY).
This bright amber beauty mingles sweetness and spice
on the nose and palate. Look for caramel, vanilla and
allspice, with just a hint of bright banana and salty tang
on the finish.
abv: 40%
Price: $40
Rhum J.M V.S.O.P. (Martinique; Domaine
Select Wine Estates, New York, NY). Rich
and succulent caramel and orange lead into dry flavors
of chocolate, espresso and clove. This supersoft aged
rum is flavorful and well balanced, and excellent for sipping.
abv: 43%
Price: $60
94
Clement Tres Vieux X.O. Rum (Martinique; MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY). Tres
vieux, indeed! Made with a rare blend of vintage rums
reaching as far back as 1952, this amber XO boasts
sweet, heady honeysuckle, candied orange peel and
luscious vanilla, accented with clove, black tea, walnut
Rhum J.M Gold Rum (Martinique; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York,
NY). The aroma of this golden rum combines brown
sugar and fresh-cut grass. On the tongue, flavors evoke
bananas Foster, with brown sugar caramelized goodness enlivened by allspice, ginger, cinnamon and sea
salt. This would be a natural in Ti’punches and other
fruity cocktails.
abv: 100%
Price: $35
Clement Aged 10 Years Tres Vieux
Rhum Agricole (Martinique; MHW Ltd.,
Manhasset, NY). Aged in charred oak barrels, this
rum offers dense honey, vanilla and tropical fruit aromas. On the palate, the fruit takes center stage, finishing
with a spicy ginger and cinnamon flourish, and a persistent resin-like note.
abv: 44%
Price: $70
89
Clement Premiere Canne Rhum Agricole
(Martinique; MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY).
The aroma of this clear rum is like a breeze: herbal,
grassy and fresh. Look for a soft feel, with a touch of
fruity flavor and a mouthwatering, slightly salty finish
not unlike Manzanilla Sherry or even buttered popcorn.
abv: 40%
Price: $30
88
Rhum J.M. White Rum (Martinique; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York,
NY). This clear rum has faintly tropical fruit aromas
and flavors, with a concentrated sweetness and marshmallow-like aftertaste. With its strong alcohol presence,
some might liken it to moonshine. Use its sweet character to advantage in mai-tais and other exotic cocktails.
abv: 100%
Price: $33
non-martinique rums
95
Kirk and Sweeney 12 Year Dominican
Rum (Dominican Republic; 35 Maple
Street, Sonoma, CA). For full review see page 10.
abv: 40%
Price: $40
93
Old Reserve 1998 Plantation Rum (Guadeloupe; WJ Deutsch, White Plains, NY).
This limited-edition single cask rum is made with 100%
pressed sugar, similar to rhum agricole. Golden hued,
this rum features butterscotch notes and an unusual
smoky accent, leading it to read almost like a slightly
sweet whiskey. Made by Cognac Ferrand.
abv: 42%
Price: $65
93
Deep Matured Gold Rum Phraya (Thailand; International Beverage Holdings
Limited USA, New York, NY). A rum from Thailand? That’s correct, made with Thai sugar cane and
aged between seven and 12 years in warehouses “sited
over cool lagoons,” the producer says. The end result is
a rich burnished-gold color and a light, enticing aroma
melding citrusy and creamy vanilla notes. The flavors
run to cola and crème brûlée, finishing smooth with a
generous dose of baking spices notes. The exotic, giftworthy bottle is tall, slim and overlaid with gold metal
latticework.
abv: 40%
Price: $50
92
Glaser Distillery White Rum (USA; Glaser Estate Winery, Roseburg, OR). Made
from blackstrap molasses, this white rum has more
warmth and character than many long-aged amber
rums. It has a sweet, funky character, reminiscent of vanilla frosting and ripe pears, plus clove and black pepper sparks. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $22
91
Siesta Key Spiced Rum (USA; Drum Circle Distilling, Sarasota, FL). Made with
molasses from Florida sugarcane, with honey and spices added, this sunny golden spiced rum is smooth and
pleasant, suitable for a wide range of cocktails. On the
palate, the flavor is vanilla-forward and similar to cola.
Yet it’s not overly sweet and allows nutmeg and cinnamon to shine through. Best Buy.
abv: 35%
Price: $20
91
Cruzan Estate Diamond Dark Rum (St.
Croix, Cruzan International, Deerfield,
IL). Part of the “Distiller’s Collection” launching in September 2013, this tawny, well-balanced rum has a mild
vanilla aroma and flavor, finishing with ginger and black
pepper. Made with a blend of rums between five and 12
years old. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $20
91
Papa’s Pilar Dark (Caribbean; Hemingway Rum Company, Key West, FL). Developed in conjunction with Ernest Hemingway’s estate,
this deep, dark rum blended in the Solera style and finished in Spanish Sherry casks will satisfy tipplers with a
sweet tooth. It reads almost like a spiced rum—soft and
sweet, with notes of brown sugar, toffee, sasparilla and
allspice, though it also has some dry aspects on the finish, showing baking spices, leather and dark chocolate.
abv: 43%
Price: $40
91
Cruzan Estate Diamond Light Rum (St.
Croix, Cruzan International, Deerfield,
IL). Part of the “Distiller’s Collection” launching in September 2013, this light rum has a faint straw color and
sugary aroma with a touch of pineapple. On the palate,
look for toasted coconut and marshmallow, with a hint
of oak and lime peel on the brisk, crisp finish. Made
with a blend of rums between five and 12 years old.
Recommended for tropical drinks. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $20
90
Cana Brava (Panama; The 86 Company, New York, NY). This bartender-owned
brand has created a light, nearly neutral rum perfect for
mixing into Papa Dobles and other cocktails. Though
barrel-
aged for three years and blended with older
rums, the appearance is nearly clear, with just a faint
golden tinge. Relatively neutral on the nose and palate,
this rum almost reads like vodka, with pleasant marshmallow, ginger and lime zest notes on the clean finish.
abv: 43%
Price: $35/1 L
90
category from wine giant Gallo is golden and bright,
and should blend seamlessly into rum & Cokes and
other mixed drinks. Like many spiced rums, Shellback
is dominated by vanilla, although it has a mellow, oaky
edge and cinnamon and nutmeg highlights too.
abv: 40%
Price: $17
89
Cruzan Key Lime Rum (St. Croix, Cruzan
International, Deerfield, IL). Clear, bright
and easy-drinking, this is an ideal flavored rum for the
vodka-tonic set. It has a sweet, ersatz limeade aroma
and flavor, and finishes cleanly with bold lime-zest flavor and a tart, mouthwatering quality at the back of the
tongue. Top with soda or tonic for a mojito-style long
drink.
abv: 21%
Price: $15
87
Cruzan Passion Fruit Rum (St. Croix,
Cruzan International, Deerfield, IL). This
clear flavored rum has the potential to give flavored
vodkas a run for the money in building flavored ’tinis
and other mixed drinks. The ersatz, fruity aroma and
flavor evoke lychee and bubble gum, although some
berry notes come through into the clean finish.
abv: 21%
Price: $15
87
Papa’s Pilar Blonde (Caribbean; Hemingway Rum Company, Key West, FL). Developed in conjunction with Ernest Hemingway’s estate,
this solera-blended rum has a pale straw color and rich
brown sugar aroma. Despite an odd plastic note midpalate, this rum finishes with lots of bold vanilla and sticky
brown sugar, and should do well mixed with ginger ale,
or in any cocktail where a sweet note is desired.
abv: 42%
Price: $30
87
Shellback Caribbean Silver Rum (Barbados; Grand Antilles Cane Spirits,
Modesto, CA). This new entrant into the white rum
category from wine giant Gallo is clear, with a sweet,
very fruity nose and mild flavor that mixes vanilla and a
touch of pineapple. Value-priced and meant for mixing.
abv: 40%
Price: $17
RumChata (Caribbean; Agave Loco
Brands, Pewaukee, WI). Though modeled
after horchata, a Mexican drink made with ground almonds, rice and cinnamon, this liqueur is made with
rum and cream. It has an opaque, milky appearance,
almondy notes and a spiced aroma. Thick, velvety and
tongue-coating, this liqueur-like rum evokes egg nog
and goes down easy. Best Buy.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
89
Cayrum (Dominican Republic; Kane Importers, Atlanta, GA). This sunny goldenorange liqueur is made with rum aged for three years
prior to infusion with honey, ginger and host of other
spices. Consider swapping out triple sec in a cocktail for
this spicy-sweet liqueur, with its notes of orange peel,
cardamom and warm honey. Or pair a small glassful
with sticky baklava or other honeyed desserts.
abv: 40%
Price: $25
89
Shellback Caribbean Spiced Rum (Barbados; Grand Antilles Cane Spirits,
Modesto, CA). This new entrant into the spiced rum
WineMag.com | 79
buyingguide
Beer
Fancy Fruit Beers and Spiced Selections
I
t’s easy to steer clear of fruit beers once
you’ve had one you didn’t fully enjoy. Whether it was too fruity, too light, too tart or too
sweet, like Goldilocks, finding a fruit beer that’s
“just right” for your palate can be somewhat
tricky. But new and exciting brews are constantly being released, offering more opportunities to
find the fruit beer that’s just right for you.
As an overall style, fruit beers are loosely defined. They can be produced from a variety of
base styles and are often categorized as such, as
you’ll see in the reviews below, instead of being
labeled simply as a fruit beer. Fresh fruit may be
used, and often provides some of the best examples, though many breweries do use an extract,
syrup or processed flavor instead. Typically
there is little to low hop presence, though there
are some exceptions (like Odell’s Tree Shaker),
and alcohol is usually low to moderate, averaging 5-7%.
Some of the best fruit beers come from Belgium, where traditional lambics are king. Spontaneously fermented and blended with fresh
fruits during secondary fermentation, these are
some seriously fruit-driven beers than exhibit
the best of the ingredient alongside tart wildyeast flavors. They are also quite low in alcohol,
which means you can enjoy liberally without
side effects that are serious.
Currently, the red-hot wine-beer trend is adding a new spin on fruit beer selections. Brewers
are turning to grape juice or must to incorporate
into their beers, adding distinctive vinous characteristics to the final product. The complexity and food-pairing ability of these brews make
them highly sought after selections, and perfect
for converting skeptics of the power and high
quality of fruit beers.
Prost!
—Lauren Buzzeo
Fruit Beers
leafy hops. Smooth and silky, with medium carbonation
and a dry, long finish.
abv: 9.3%
Price: $17/750 ml
92
Dogfish Head Sixty-One (American IPA;
Dogfish Head, Inc., DE). Dogfish has a long
history of playing with wine ingredients (like its Midas
Touch, brewed with Muscat grapes, or Noble Rot,
brewed with botrytised Viognier grape must), and now
has a new year-round release to add to the grape-loving lineup. Sixty-One, based off of the brewery’s classic 60 Minute IPA but brewed with Syrah grape must,
is a complex and layered brew. Initial IPA-like aromas
of pine, grass and citrus oil lead the bouquet alongside
subtle secondary accents of red cherry, vinous grape
and a soft foxy character. The palate is smooth and dry,
with a slight tannic presence that plays well with the
hop astringency. The hop-based citrus flavors and tart
red-fruit tones harmonize, supported by a light caramel
malt core and medium carbonation.
abv: 6.5% Price: $9/12 oz 4 pack
92
Odell Amuste (American Porter; Odell
Brewing Company, CO). As the name suggests, Amuste is definitely a must. The culmination of a
two-year endeavor to marry wine must and beer wort,
this is an imperial porter accented with Tempranillo
juice sourced from Odell’s home state, Colorado, and
aged in wine oak barrels. The aromas are a veritable mélange; with each sniff a new layer is revealed. Notes of
tart red plum and cherry, cocoa powder, lightly toasted
wood, caramel malt and espresso dance in the bouquet
and on the palate, with background hints of licorice and
92
Odell Tree Shaker Imperial Peach IPA
(American Double/Imperial IPA; Odell
Brewing Company, CO). Although it’s not common for fruit beers to have hop-heavy base styles, for
this brew, it works surprisingly well. The bright peach
aromas and juicy flavors marry harmoniously with the
herbal and resiny citrus-hop profile on the nose and in
the mouth. The texture is full and smooth, with medium
carbonation to keep the palate lifted. A dry, piny flavor
lingers on the long finish.
abv: 9.7%
Price: $17/750 ml
91
Dogfish Head Black & Blue (Fruit Beer;
Dogfish Head, Inc., DE). This Belgian-style
golden ale, brewed with blueberry and black-raspberry puree, is big and upfront, with immediate aromas
of berries as well as golden raisins, bright orange, ripe
pineapple, cloves and yeasty spice. There’s a warmth to
the nose and finish, and a lush, round feel to the palate
that’s balanced by medium carbonation and an acidic,
citrusy streak. The flavors tend toward raspberry jam,
with a light oaky accent that carries through to the close.
abv: 10% Price: $13/750 ml
90
Lindemans Kriek Cherry Lambic (Fruit
Lambic; Brouwerij Lindemans, Belgium). This delectable lambic pours a deep red color
with a light pink head that lingers. The aromas and flavors are exactly as expected, with a bright note of fresh
red cherries upfront. The palate offers fresh acidity and
brisk carbonation that keeps the ripe fruit flavor from
becoming too sweet or cloying. A refreshing tartness
lingers long on the finish, and keeps the palate perfectly
poised for the next sip. A lovely option for dessert; no
food accompaniment needed, or opt for a simple piece
of dark chocolate.
abv: 3.5% Price: $11/750 ml
87
Samuel Adams Blueberry Hill Lager
(Fruit Beer; The Boston Beer Company,
MA). A refreshing and extremely drinkable selection,
this is a great brew for people looking for a soft fruit
character and an overall crisp, clean profile. Fresh blueberry aromas and flavors appear throughout, but they’re
complemented by light fresh-cut grass and citrus notes
from the addition of Tettnang Noble hops. The finish is
clean and mouthwatering, making this a great selection
for warm-weather enjoyment.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
Herbed/Spiced Beers
90
Smuttynose
Bloom
(Herbed/Spiced
Beer; Smuttynose Brewing Co., NH).
From Smuttynose’s short-batch series, this is a unique
and interesting Belgian-style golden ale that’s brewed
with edible flowers, including Yarrow, Lavender, Chamomile, Rose buds, Elderflowers, Calendula, Nasturtium
and Dianthus. Brewing with flowers is tricky, as it’s easy
for the notes to become too powerful or even soapy,
but Smutty does it right. The floral notes are definitely in the spotlight, especially lavender, with additional
accents of pepper, fresh grass, white cherry and bread
dough. The round texture is complemented by medium
carbonation, and the dry, herbal finish keeps the palate
feeling clean and balanced.
abv: 6.5%
Price: $15/750 ml
89
Left Hand Brewing Company Good Juju
(Herbed/Spiced Beer; Left Hand Brewing Company, CO). Brewed seasonally with fresh,
organic Peruvian ginger, this pours a medium goldencopper color with a small head. The ginger really comes
through as the dominant note in the bouquet, but is
supported by additional hints of clementine, earthy
hops and light grain. The texture is light and brisk with
high effervescence, lifting the crystalized ginger flavors
that flood the palate. Secondary accents of clove, citrus
zest and soft caramel malt add depth, and carry through
to the long, spicy finish.
abv: 4.5%
87
Smuttynose Summer Weizen (American
Pale Wheat Ale; Smuttynose Brewing
Co., NH). Here’s a light and incredibly refreshing summer seasonal that’s brewed with whole chamomile flowers, added at the end of the boil to retain some fresh
floral character. It’s crisp and clean, with delicate notes
of wheat, bread dough, lemon, fresh grass and pepper
on the nose and mouth. The hops are light but present, providing a nice compliment to the herbal tones
as well as adding depth to the palate. A tea-like flavor
kisses the finish. A great choice for the beach or poolside lounging.
abv: 5.3%

Lynmar 2011 Pinot Noir - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Transcription

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