indulgence - SYS

Transcription

indulgence - SYS

THE
T
O N LY
R
LIFESTYLE
A
V
E
L
MAGAZINE
D E D I C AT E D
TO
YA C H T
www.YachtChartersMagazine.com
VA C AT I O N S
VOLUME 4 ISSUE 1
PURE
INDULGENCE
CHARTER A PERFECT
HEDONIST’S
HIDEAWAY
BAHAMAS
SOUTH AMERICA
Gotta Go to Abaco
Amazon: Journey to Exotica
ST. BARTHS
RIVIERA MAYA
The Celebrities’ Playground
in the Caribbean
Mexico’s enchanting
Caribbean coast
MEXICO
Baja California:
Find Solitude
in Coronado
A KIRCAALI MEDIA PUBLICATION
NEW YORK
Use a yacht as
your base while
visiting NYC
2007
CHAMPAGNE
MOMENTS
FOR MORE THAN 30 YEARS, YACHTING PARTNERS
HAS WORKED WITH YACHT OWNERS AND
CHARTERERS WORLDWIDE TO EXTEND THE
PRIVILEGE OF ACCESS TO THESE BEAUTIFUL CRAFT
WWW.YPI.CO.UK
AS YOUR PARTNER WE TAKE YOUR HAPPINESS
AND YOUR TRUST IN US TO HEART
IT’S A PERSONAL APPROACH THAT FORMS
THE BASIS OF OUR INTERNATIONAL REPUTATION
UK
+44 (0) 1273 571722
email: ypi@ypi.co.uk
FRANCE
+33 (0) 4 93 34 01 00
email: ypifr@ypifr.co.uk
USA
+1 800 626 0019
INTERNATIONAL YACHT BROKERAGE, WORLDWIDE CHARTER, YACHT MANAGEMENT &
ADMINISTRATION, ISM, ISPS, CREW AGENCY, REFIT & NEW CONSTRUCTION SUPERVISION
t a b l e
o f
c o n t e n t s
10
VOLUME 4 ISSUE 1 2007
f e a t u r e s
10
Pure Indulgence
The perfect hedonist’s hideaway
The Cote D’Azur, on the Mediterranean south coast of France,
is the European playground for large yachts. Look over any
pretty bay or inlet and they grace every anchorage,
with their white hulls gleaming in the sunlight.
20
Gotta Go to Abaco
Dine on freshly caught fish, and dance to live music
The barrier reef that protects the Bahamas is the third largest in the
world, Leroy Grant, our pilot told us. We were 2,000 feet up, flying in a
twin-engine nine-passenger Britten-Norman Islander aircraft.
Below us, the islands in the outer chain of the Abacos
26
Spotlight on St. Barths
The Celebrities’ Playground in the Caribbean
It’s an island where it seems all the 7,000 residents know
one another, except during the winter months when the
world’s glitterati descend on the island either by flight,
or sail in on their sleek yachts.
4
VOLUME:4 ISSUE:1 2007
32
Amazon: Journey to Exotica
This rainforest is home to thousands of exotic species
The Amazon River and its many tributaries, like the Napo
River and Pastaza River, flow through one of the globe’s
last wilderness areas. In the canopy, a sky garden of
exotic bromeliads and plants thrive.
58
Sea Slugs: Hidden Talents
Breaking all the rules on the wild plant-animal frontier
Marine scientists are discovering that some sea slugs use solar
power, breaking all the rules of the animal world as they’re
switching from being an animal to a plant, soaking up
sunlight to produce a sugary snack.
64
Letter from Loreto
Surviving the ranchera street beat in paradise
Traffic is amping up with the Tecate sunrise now:
exact time unknown. I can smell, even taste, the acrid
carbon monoxide-dust fumes coming under my door
like Dracula fog.
YACHTCHARTERSMAGAZINE.COM
t a b l e
o f
c o n t e n t s
18
36
40
c o l u m n s
16
Marinas: New York City’s North Cove Marina
d e p a r t m e n t s
8
Recommended:
Yacht Charter Brokers
Recommended:
Air Charter Companies
9
Editorial
Nothing equals using a yacht as your base during a visit to New York City
36
Yacht Profile:
Isn’t She Lovely?
M/Y Nibani’s classic pedigree shines through her modern rebuild
38
Mexican Riviera: Mayan Magic
Cruising along Mexico’s enchanting Caribbean coast
40
42
Classic Yachts: FromRags to Riches
How a letter from ‘Uncle Peter’ led to a Victorian cutter being found
46
The Med:
Cruising Cigar Man
56
Private Jet Charters
62
Toys
76
Caribbean
78
Food & Wine
Elegant Oldies
Classic yachts have a new rendezvous in Italy to start the Med season
50
54
Marinas: Yachtominiums
A new real estate market heats up for large boat owners
Show Report: Barrett-Jackson Palm Beach Auction
A review of the record-breaking Event
52
Resorts:
New Spa & Spa Suite Concept
Fern Tree Spa at Half Moon Debuting Summer 07
72
Spas at Sea:
A Taste of the Life
Well Traveled
Those Fabulous
Figurados!
IAM Jet Centre
Porsche Cayman
2-Door Coupe
Charter a Yacht for
a Week in a Magical
Place
Truffles
Well- Being Charters
The perfect way to maximize your health and well-being
special: toys
80 Fantastic Inflatables
The latest blow-up toys boaters are going to
bedragging behind their boats this season
6
��
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8
NOTE: THIS LIST IS PROVIDED AS AN ADDITIONAL SERVICE TO OUR READERS. THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ASSUME ANY LIABILITY FOR ERRORS OR OMISSIONS.
From world-famous celebrities (even a princess or two) to some of the world’s most
Shannon Webster Charters full-service yacht charter brokerage firm with spe-
EDITOR’S LETTER
CEO Fuat Kircaali
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EDITORIAL
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MANAGING EDITOR
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A Taste of the Life Well Traveled
T
here are numerous ways of rating a good vacation: A good vacation is one that you want to tell your
friends about the moment you get home. It’s one that you can’t wait to repeat. It’s one where there
are little, if any, travel snafus, and you managed to remember to pack everything you needed for the
trip (from toothbrush to socks, and everything in between).
For the well-traveled foodie a good vacation is one with top-notch food; one that starts with a cappuccino that is perfect, from its first foamy sip to its last, rich, espresso drop. A trip of this nature promises that
every bite will be nothing less than the most tantalizing and luxurious flavors that you have ever tasted.
Others would disagree. The more adventurous, explorer types would say that their idea of a successful
trip is one that showcases the gorgeous wonders of a world unseen. Places that are pulsating with bright
colors and natural landmarks. Places that are amusement parks showcasing the unimagined beauty of
our planet. These travelers seek adventures that have them peeking through caves covered in florescent
vegetation and animal life. They want to clink mugs
of fresh fruit nectars with the locals in the morning,
NYM Show Directory
and be lulled to sleep at night by the even swell of
Look for the NYM Show
crisp blue waters.
Directory once again
And what do I want as a regular charter yachter?
produced by Yacht Vacations
I want it all. Everything from impeccable food to
& Charters Magazine!
��
exciting new views of the world is not only yearned
for, it’s expected. I know that once I step onto the
deck of a charter, my idea of what a good vacation is
will be trumped, big time. These are vacations that
are in the realm of greatness.
In this issue of International Yacht Vacations &
Charters we are offering you a view of the life well
traveled. We will introduce you to the wonders
of the Amazon rainforest; the indulgent luxuries
History of NYM Charter Show
yachting on the waters of Cote D’Azur, located on
the south coast of France; and the sun-ripened
The late Nigel Henderson started the Newport Spring
beauty of St. Barths and the Abacos Islands. This
Charter Yacht Show in 1982 with approximately 15
issue is an aperitif of the yacht-charter vacations
yachts, mostly sail, in attendance. As originally conthat can be had in these regions. We are whetting
ceived there were two shows each year, one in June,
your appetite for fun, and inviting you to dig in.
to showcase the fleet available for charter that summer
Be ready to get ideas for your next charter yacht
in the Northeast and the other in the fall to preview the
vacation at the Myba Charter Show in Genoa, Italy.
yachts before they headed south. Attendance at the
The show, running from April 30–May 4, promises
show has fluctuated over the years, but recently it has
to showcase some of the most beautiful and luxurigrown to such an extent that the original venue was
ous yachts in the world. The trip is well worth the
no longer viable. Not only has the number of yachts
trip to Italy. Patrons will be delighted not only by
attending increased, but also their average overall length
nautical sights, but by the rich history and atmohas grown dramatically. Since 2001 the Spring Charter
sphere that Genoa provides. For more information,
Yacht Show has been held at the Newport Shipyard, an
log onto www.mybashow.com.
extremely hospitable and accommodating site for such
For an equally breathtaking show, statean event. Now, in it’s 25th year of presenting the show,
side, mark your calendars for the Newport Yacht
NYM anticipates having up to 40 yachts available for
Management Charter Show that will be held on
viewing with over 150 charter brokers and industry proJune 19–June 22. For more information, log onto
fessionals from all parts of the world in attendance.
www.nymyachts.com. YVC
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Associate Editor Vasif Sayil
vasif@yachtchartersmagazine.com | 201 802-3040
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9
YACHT PROFILE
Pure
Indulgence
WRITTEN BY
FRANCES & MICHAEL HOWORTH
Her gracious
accommodation
and ample deck
space coupled
with her ‘can
do’ crew makes
Indulgence the
perfect hedonist’s
hideaway
10
The Cote D’Azur, on the Mediterranean south coast of France, is the European playground
for large yachts. Look over any pretty bay or inlet and they grace every anchorage, with
their white hulls gleaming in the sunlight, which is reflected in the azure waters that gave
the coast its name. At first glance, you might be forgiven for thinking that it has all been
done before and that all the superlatives have been written, but if that’s the case, there
would be no need for any further indulgence, and that would indeed be a great shame.
Indulgence is to yacht charter what coffee is to cappuccino: it’s an essential ingredient. Her
gracious accommodation and ample deck space coupled with her “can do” crew makes
her the perfect hedonist’s hideaway. Place all those ingredients into French Mediterranean
sunshine and you have the recipe for pure indulgence.
W
e had been truly indulgent
from the very moment we
stepped off our airplane
in Nice. A helicopter had
whisked us smartly away
to Monaco, which was
just 11 minutes flying time away. There, on the
helipad, was Stephanie in her shining white
uniform to greet us, the three silver bars on her
shoulder pads twinkling in the sunshine, matching her eyes and infectious smile. She escorted
us to the port to join the mighty vessel as she lay
stern to in the harbor that was famous for casinos
and motor car racing. The principality has more
than that and the memory of Grace Kelly to offer
to visitors and, later in the afternoon, we toured
the stunning Jardin Exotique with its vast range
of tropical and subtropical plants, and followed
that with a trip to the equally famous Mussée
Océanographique, founded by Prince Albert I in
1910. The aquariums in this cliff-top building
are filled with rare marine plants and animals.
Elsewhere there are collections of shells, corals, pearls, and a research center created here
by Jacques Cousteau. The view overlooking the
world’s second smallest sovereign state is superb
from the terrace. It is really strange to see so many
people living in an area less than half the size of
New York’s Central Park, but when you appreciate
that very few here pay taxes, it is easy to see why
they do. That night we paid the price that allows
them to do so, when we visited the fine casino
with its Belle Époque interior designed in 1878
by Charles Garnier. We escaped further losses by
the fact that our Captain wanted to clear harbor
before midnight.
Launched in 1996, Indulgence was built for
a Swedish businessman credited with inventing
the mobile phone; when she entered service she
was billed as the fastest luxury yacht in the world.
She quickly sped onto the books of the top charter agents and has remained a perennial favorite
ever since. Her high-speed gas turbine propulsion plant proved troublesome and has since
been removed, but she retains all the attributes
and qualities her high-speed designers and water
jet drive units gave her. She traveled at night and
was both vibration and noise free during the
short passage.
To awake in any French port for breakfast is
a privilege, but to awake off the port of Beaulieu
sur Mer is an unforgettable honor. It is a town
hemmed in and protected by a rock face and
flanked by a promenade lined with palm trees,
which has rightfully earned it the nickname
Petite Afrique. Among its many famous buildings is the hotel La Réserve founded by Gordon
Bennett, the then owner of the New York Herald.
The anchorage lies in the shadow of Cap Ferrat,
a peninsular playground for the rich, with its
fabulous villas and luxury gardens. King Leopold
YACHT VACATIONS & CHARTERS
Sun Deck
Breakfast of freshly baked croissants and French breadsticks still warm from the oven was served on deck.
They were brought to the table together with the daily newspapers, freshly squeezed juices, and coffee
brewed to perfection.
11
YACHT PROFILE
Villefranche
A fortress where, during the summer months,
they hold a ceremonial changing of the guard
ritual each day, starting with the firing of a canon
when the soldiers of the Alpine Guard change
duties with the Savoyard Guard.
“Antibes is the
center of the
universe when it
comes to yachts.
This medieval
town is packed
with everything
that you could
ever need”
12
II of Belgium started the trend in the 19th
century when he built Les Cedres on the west
side of the cape. Now it’s open to one and all
and features 35 acres of lakes and a zoo with
chimpanzees who hold daily tea parties. The
Duke of Windsor, David Niven, and Edith Piaf
have all built what remain private homes here,
but the villa built by Beatrice Ephrussi de
Rothschild is now a museum open to the public and many of the pretty shore-side pathways
that meander around the hill are available to
walkers.
Breakfast of freshly baked croissants and
French breadsticks still warm from the oven
was served on deck. They were brought to
the table together with the daily newspapers,
freshly squeezed juices, and coffee brewed to
perfection. The deck and engineering crew
aboard this yacht are Swedish and this happy
group is led by Captain Lars Bergstrand, who
runs his ship with a rotating crew of 10 to
ensure everyone remains rested. The interior
crew are all young women and come under
the control of Stephanie Bormann, the chief
stewardess; it is her role as hotel manager
that makes any charter aboard Indulgence
so complete. She seems to miss nothing, yet
anticipates your every need, and this great
skill is acquired only after years of experience
and training. Today she has suggested a shore
excursion to Eze, a hanging village perched
4,500 feet above sea level, high up on the corniche overlooking the bay. On a clear day, from
this vantage point, it is possible to see Corsica
over 100 miles away. While we play tourist in
the hills, our hardworking crew move the boat
from one side of the headland to another,
so that we descend from Eze in the town of
Villefranche. This is a typical French fishing
village with narrow, near-vertical streets dominated by a fortress where, during the summer
months, they hold a ceremonial changing of
the guard ritual each day, starting with the firing of a canon when the soldiers of the Alpine
Guard change duties with the Savoyard Guard.
On our way back to the yacht, we walked
through the flea market held once a week and
enjoyed viewing the bric-a-brac for sale and
the cheerful banter of the vendors encouraging us to look, look, buy, buy!
Our next port was Nice with its quaint old
town, and superb market place filled with a
cornucopia of local produce. We used the services of a local car and driver and toured the
area, visiting Cagnes sur Mer on the coast, then
inland to St Paul de Vence where Pablo Picasso
dined at the local restaurants; rather than
pay his check at the end of the meal, Picasso
illustrated that day’s menu, which have subsequently become masterpieces and adorn the
walls. The city of Nice is full of fabulous places
to eat in restaurants famous the world over,
but it has to be said that the finest food in town
happened to be served aboard Indulgence
that night. Chef Sonya Grey is nothing short
of a masterpiece herself when it comes to her
ability in the galley. Trust me when I say I have
eaten a great many meals on a large number of
great yachts, and this lady can outshine them
all. If for no other reason, it is Sonya’s food that
makes Indulgence stand out from the crowd.
Each day this New Zealander goes ashore and
selects produce from the market; her passion
for food and pleasing those who eat it is enormous. Stephanie knows how to match wine
to Sonya’s creations and together they make a
formidable team, backed by a duo of English
stewardesses who both serve and tend cabins.
YACHT PROFILE
Specifications
Yacht Name:........................ Indulgence
Yacht Type:.......................... Motor Yacht
Builder: .............................. Marin Teknik
Draft: ............................... 5’ 11” (1.80m)
LOA (Actual length): ......142’0”(43.28m)
Cruise Speed:.............................. 12 kts
Beam: .............................27’ 3” (8.31m)
Amenities: .............SatCom, Cell phone,
Fax, Satellite TV, Audio library, Video
library, Internet, Tender, PWC, Kayak,
Snorkeling gear, Water skis, Kneeboard,
Towable toys, Fishing gear, Jacuzzi,
Barbecue, Wet bar, Xbox
Information
To charter this trip or any yacht you
see in this issue of YV&C, please
contact any of the recommended
charter brokers listed on page 8
14
Camille Rayon Marina
Berthing in the well-equipped marina was the perfect jumping-off place for the Isles de Lerins.
Antibes is the center of the universe when
it comes to yachts. It is packed with everything
that they could ever need, and it this medieval
town that was our next call. Just inland is the
town of Biot, famous for its hand-crafted glassware, while just around the corner is Juan les
Pins. Napoleon Bonaparte landed here in 1815
when freed from his first exile on the island
of Elba, but the town really did not reach true
international acclaim until the 1920s when writers F. Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway
joined the high-society friends of the railroad
heir Frank Jay Gould, who was fast making it the
up-market resort it has become today.
We berthed in the well-equipped marina
of Camille Rayon that evening, as it makes
the perfect jumping-off place for our final day
of adventure, which was a trip to the Isles de
Lerins. These islands lie just off the coast south
of Cannes and appeared through the morning fog as we approached. The sun quickly
burned off this mist to reveal islands ahead
and mountains in stark relief astern; it made
a superb setting. We dropped anchor between
the two islands in a channel with water so
clear, you could see the bottom. Each of the
islands is forested with eucalyptus and Aleppo
pine, and both islands were powerful centers
of religion as long ago as the fourth century.
Isle de Honarat is the smaller of the two and
is home to a fortified, yet now ruined, monastery where you are free to roam, explore,
and, from the top of the battlements, take
stunning photographs. The island is still home
to monks who inhabit a newer monastery
dating back 200 or so years where they make
and sell liquor called Lerina with which they
have become associated. Isle de Margurite is
similarly heavily wooded and its impressive
fortress was used to imprison the mystery man
in the iron mask for over 11 years in the 17th
century. Nowadays it’s home to a maritime
museum that is well worth a visit. After walking the islands and enjoying their solitude,
we lunched on board until it was time to play
with the yacht’s extensive array of water toys,
including wave runners, kayaks, and skis.
That evening, we anchored off the port of
Cannes and, having just missed the fun and
excitement of the film festival just a few weeks
earlier, had to content ourselves with watching
a Hollywood blockbuster in the yacht’s purpose-built media room, which is just perfect for
movie viewing. The movie, in good Hollywood
tradition, ended happily as did our charter next
morning when we said our farewells and went
ashore by ship’s tender to the helipad to be
whisked back to Nice International Airport by
private helicopter. Oh what an indulgence! YVC
Charters for up to 10 people aboard Indulgence
were quoted at $116,750 per week in high season, sailing in the Mediterranean in summer.
About the Authors
Frances and Michael Howorth are a freelance photojournalist team who specialize in travel features on
the ultra large yacht and boutique cruise ship market.
Frances and Michael are members of the British Guild
of Travel Writers and Michael is a qualified Captain
certificated to command large luxury yachts up to
3000 tons. The couple have written several books
mostly about yachts, yachting and survival at sea.
michael@thehoworths.com
MARINAS
New York City’s
North Cove
Marina
Nothing equals
using a yacht
as your base
during a visit to
New York City
WRITTEN BY
SCOTT ROSE
16
The North Cove Marina endured a grave setback on 9/11, but is now once again a flourishing megayacht berthing place. Writer Scott Rose has the intriguing details.
O
n the afternoon of September 11,
2001, New York City firefighters Dan
McWilliams, George Johnson, and Bill
Eisengrein came walking by the North Cove
Marina not far from the World Trade Center site.
Yachts lay wasted as a result of the barbarity, yet
Old Glory had survived aboard Shirley Dreifus
and Spiros Kopelakis’ 130-foot Star of America.
The firefighters manifested the resilient spirit
of the city and the nation in our tragic hour by
hoisting that flag at Ground Zero. A photo of their
noble act became world famous the next day.
The monstrous, incomprehensible loss of life
on 9/11 is of a different order of magnitude, obviously, than what Dreifus and Kopelakis suffered
in seeing their yacht ruined, yet that too is part of
the history of the attacks. As happened, the couple had also been running a charter yacht business – from offices in one of the Twin Towers.
Situated just west of the WTC, The North
Cove Marina was originally built by the Mexican
media magnate Emilio Azcárraga Milmo in 1989.
It was the Big Apple’s first marina outfitted to
accommodate large yachts. Milmo’s own 244foot Eco called The North Cove home. Forbes’
The Highlander, a 151-foot beauty, took frequent
corporate cruises from this base. ‘Monaco on the
Hudson,’ as The North Cove was often called,
became a place for the glitterati to see and
be seen. Ivana Trump and Philippe Stark were
sometimes yacht neighbors here, throwing lavish parties, bestowing additional glamour to the
downtown cityscape.
In the aftermath of the attacks, The North
Cove served as a rescue operations center. A
main protagonist in organizing the efforts was
Captain Greg Freitas. During the summer of
2001, he had been sailing the 80-foot schooner
Adirondack out of the Chelsea Piers and on
Saturdays operating a different craft, The Chelsea
Screamer. That week, he had four charter trips
around New York booked, and was set to defend
his record-breaking performance in the Mayor’s
Cup on the weekend.
Upon learning of the attacks, Captain Greg
took The Chelsea Screamer downriver along with
the boat’s owner. They saw the South Tower collapse, but even when they were closer to the
scene and over VHF radio heard a warning that
the North Tower was about to fall and all boats
had to clear the area, they knew they would be
needed and so bravely stayed. After the cul-
After 9/11
The North Cove had to be completely rebuilt; by the
end of the long and expensive process, the original
management company was in financial agony so could
not carry out proper maintenance. Early in 2005, new
management was found, chaired by Dennis Conner,
aka Mr. America’s Cup; he cut the ribbon for the
reopening ceremony on June 2.
mination of the horror and once able to enter
The North Cove, Captain Greg worked tirelessly,
evacuating people to New Jersey, setting up a
“general store” for emergency workers, and even
calming one hysterical man so well that the fellow wound up remaining and contributing to
the rescues. All told, Captain Greg pressed on
working at the site until September 18, sleeping only a few hours each night. Among the
many awards he later received was the Coast
Guard’s Transportation 9/11 Medal. He appeared
on The History Channel’s documentary The Day
the Towers Fell. Charter yachtsmen simply do no
come any finer than Captain Greg Freitas.
Captain Greg currently owns a day sail concession at Caneel Bay Resort on St. John, www.
sailcaneel.com, and occasionally comes to New
York to guest captain the Adirondack.
After 9/11, The North Cove had to be completely rebuilt; by the end of the long and expensive process, the original management company
was in financial agony so could not carry out
proper maintenance. Early in 2005, new management was found, chaired by Dennis Conner,
aka Mr. America’s Cup; he cut the ribbon for the
reopening ceremony on June 2.
The President of North Cove Management is
Michael Fortenbaugh, who is also the director
of The Manhattan Sailing School. A resident of
the area, which is known as Battery Park City,
he is passionate about making lower Manhattan
thrive. Even before he assumed the presidency
of North Cove Management, he was engaged in
reviving seafaring activity in the neighborhood.
He has said: “On the one year anniversary of 9/11,
I was privileged to serve as Chair of the committee that created ‘Sail for America.’ More than one
thousand sailboats filled the harbor as a tribute
to those who were lost and a demonstration of
the spirit of America. On that day, I realized that if
we just kept working hard, everything would turn
out for the best.” And he presently affirms that it
has: “Lower Manhattan is now New York City’s
most vibrant community. The residential population has more than doubled since 2001. North
Cove is right in the center of this mix. Around the
marina is a great esplanade with linden trees,
grass, flowers, and ornamental greenery. All sorts
of people walk by from corporate executives to
movie stars and other celebrities. Keep your eyes
open and when you see a person behind a large
hat and sunglasses, see if you recognize them.”
Physically, The North Cove is backed by The
World Financial Center, designed by architect
César Pelli. His book Observations for Young
Architects could well be enjoyed during a yacht
charter that includes a port stop in New York. At
the time it was built, The World Financial Center
was hailed by architecture critics as the finest
collection of buildings in New York since those
at Rockefeller Center. It certainly makes for a
majestic, uplifting sight when seen in approach
PHOTOGRAPHER THOMAS E. FRANKLIN
New Management
Early in 2005, new management was found, chaired by
Dennis Conner, aka Mr. America’s Cup; he cut the ribbon for the reopening ceremony on June 2.
Photo Seen ‘Round The World
On 9/11, New York City firefighters Dan
McWilliams, George Johnson and Bill
Eisengrein came walking past the North
Cove and took an American flag from Star
of America, a yacht that lay in ruins there
as a result of the attack. They then hoisted
the flag atop some rubble at Ground Zero.
Standing defiantly against the gray and white
landscape of devastation, these dust-covered men and the vivid red, white, and blue
of Old Glory instantly became a symbol of
American patriotism
The photo was captured by Bergen Record
photographer Thomas E. Franklin.
17
MARINAS
Entering North Cove:
A Captain’s Perspective
Captain Greg reminisced for me about his
first, pre-9/11 experience at The North Cove.
His descriptions let you know what a charter
yacht captain thinks and feels when making
the approach:
“The very first time I brought the
Schooner Adirondack into North Cove for
a charter pickup, I was a little nervous and
excited. I had visited North Cove on foot
beforehand to get an idea of the width of
the entrance, the size of the harbor, and
the overall docking arrangements. I had
calculated the expected cross current of
the river and figured the speed and angle of
approach necessary to safely make it in and
out without leaving any splinters (Adirondack
is an 80 foot traditionally rigged composite
schooner sailing out of Chelsea Piers) on the
entry monuments. It would be no sweat.
Now, at the moment of entry, I was in awe
of the sight before me - the mighty World
Trade Center buildings towering over me and
my very small boat, the small entrance in
front of me and my now very large boat and
the swift current pushing me and my sharply
angled boat sideways. Everything was exaggerated but I felt comfortable and focused.
As it turned out, there were no splinters,
dings, or scrapes (the entry is about 80 feet
across), the current wasn’t as strong and
the entry in was easy as pie. However, just
after tying up the Adirondack, I looked up and
saw the Twin Towers and they indeed were
mighty and my boat was small.”
18
from the harbor with sunlight glinting off its
surfaces. At its center is the Winter Garden, with
16 palm trees in a soaring atrium. The Center is
enlivened by arts presentations and festivals, and
it serves as headquarters to many of the financial
world’s towering giants. Walking the streets of the
area, one notes a persistent and delightful scent
of money being made.
As a marina, The North Cove is service oriented. It offers three docking options: floating docks,
seawalls, and Mediterranean mooring slips. At this
time, its maximum length over all is 180ft. Visitors
to The North Cove enjoy wireless Internet access.
Laura Migliozzi of North Cove Management says:
“North Cove specializes in customer service. We
solve all the captain’s problems when they arrive
at the marina. For the past two years, we have had
Heineken Beer as a marina sponsor. Every time a
megayacht pulls into the marina, they are greeted
with a case of Heineken and a welcome package that includes things like yachting magazines,
where to provision, maps of the area, and events
of Lower Manhattan.”
When I asked Laura if visitors are provided
with insider tips on New York City hot spots,
she said: “Oh yes. We give information along
those lines directly to the person asking, because
everyone wants a different New York experience.
We will advise them on where to head after hearing about the specific mood and occasion, as well
as what the end goals are of their outing.”
The North Cove’s Website (www.thenorthcove.com) has a Recent Visitors page where you
may see which yachts have come a calling of
late. Many highly desirable charterable yachts
berthed here in the year following the grand
reopening. Drumbeat, for instance, is a 173-foot
sailing yacht with cream-colored linen and silk
carpet in the master suite. The Codecasa-built,
160-foot Te Manu has an oval-shaped main dining room paneled in gloss cherry. Il Cigno (the
name is Italian for swan), is 138� and has underwater lighting for night viewing of marine life.
At The North Cove, that marine life could
well include seals, which have been sighted with
some frequency in New York harbor lately. If
you do not see seals, then you might see a blue
heron flying in glory across the waterway. Then
again, racing giant Dame Ellen MacArthur has
berthed her trimaran here. The Harbor Lights
festival in December, when yachts in The North
Cove put on a scintillating display of lights, is a
local favorite. By including The North Cove in
your yacht charter itinerary, you will surely verify
that New York perpetually earns its moniker as
The Greatest City in the World. If it weren’t for my
living two blocks from Lincoln Center, I might
just contract a yacht to be in The North Cove this
coming September 24, when the Metropolitan
Opera will open its 2007–2008 season with a
star-studded performance of Donizetti’s Lucia di
Lammermoor. YVC
About the Writer
Scott Rose attended Harvard University at Master’s
level. He writes frequently on luxury markets and travel.
His work has appeared in such prestigious venues as
Bon Appetit and Power magazines.
scottcaliente@earthlink.net
Information
To charter a trip in the New York City area
or any yacht you see in this issue of YV&C,
please contact any of the recommended
BAHAMAS
Gotta Go to
Abaco
Sip cocktails at sunset, dine on
freshly caught fish, and dance
into the night to live music
WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHIED
BY
FRANCES & MICHAEL HOWORTH
The barrier reef that protects the Bahamas is the third largest in the world, Leroy Grant, our
pilot told us. We were 2,000 feet up, flying in a twin-engine nine-passenger Britten-Norman
Islander aircraft. Below us, the islands in the outer chain of the Abacos sparkled in the
turquoise sea like gemstones in a necklace worn around the neck of Great Abaco, the main
island. What better introduction could you get to your new cruising ground than a flight
right over the top of it?
20
W
e had flown into Nassau
International
Airport
where we transferred to
Millionaire, the small private executive terminal
on the other side of the
airfield used by private and charter aircraft. Our
small airplane was operated by Abaco Air Ltd.
(www.abacoaviationcentre.com), which runs a
scheduled air taxi flight to the country’s capital
from Marsh Harbour, their base on Great Abaco.
“That’s Elbow Cay down there,” said Leroy, as
he banked to make his final approach. “Be sure
to go see the lighthouse when you get there,” he
gestured toward the pretty candy-striped tower
dominating our view that stood sentinel at the
entrance to Hope Town Harbour. “The British
built it in 1863,” he continued.
Our touch down was as smooth as our flight
and our transfer to the Nautic Blue base was
equally well handled. Once there, we became
acquainted with the yacht that was to be our
home for the next week. The 37 foot Fountaine
Pajot trawler yacht uses catamaran hulls, each
housing a double sleeping cabin and heads, and,
of course, an engine, in this case a 125hp Yanmar.
Up one deck is a saloon, home to the galley seating area, an indoor wheelhouse, and sliding glass
doors to the aft deck where a stair leads to a spacious sun deck with fly bridge controls. The yacht
is clean, tidy, and extremely well equipped, having
everything you need for the voyage including a
GPS and chart plotter mounted on the fly bridge.
For those who like doing it the old-fashioned way,
down below are charts, table rules, and dividers;
these guys have thought of everything.
Nautic Blue is part of the Moorings Group
and shares their base in Marsh Harbour. It’s here
in their briefing room that we were given the
low-down – all the tips and local advice – on our
cruising ground by George who, as dockmasterin-chief, seems to know and do a great many different things.
Fountaine Pajot
Our home for a week. The 37 foot Fountaine Pajot
trawler yacht uses catamaran hulls, each housing a double sleeping cabin and heads, and, of
course, an engine, in this case a 125hp Yanmar
21
BAHAMAS
The Lighthouse
We climbed the spiral stairs to the top at sunset
to watch the lighthouse keeper wind the clockwork mechanism and light the kerosene lamp,
still in use today just as it was when first erected
by the British Imperial Lighthouse Service.
“The yacht is clean,
tidy, and extremely
well equipped,
having everything
you need for the
voyage including
a GPS and chart
plotter mounted
on the fly bridge”
22
The next morning, after a very efficient
explanation of everything we needed to know
about the boat, we set off toward Elbow Cay.
The depth of water throughout the area is relatively shallow and therefore the tidal range of
3 feet can be significant. Once clear of Marsh
Harbour, Elbow Cay is just 7 miles away, but
the course to be steered involves a dogleg
to avoid the shallows in the final approaches
to the island. Fortunately the excellent pilot
book, The Cruising Guide to Abaco written by
Steve Dodge, has all the courses and waypoints
marked on the chartlets and, rather helpfully, Nautic Blue has transferred all of these to
the chart plotter located on the fly bridge.
Navigation, therefore, is not difficult. Knowing
that the sea is shallow and reef infested calls
for a vigilant eye when navigating; the task is
made a great deal easier if the helmsman wears
a good pair of Polaroid sunglasses that not only
reduce the glare from the surface but also has
the added advantage of making reefs below
the surface appear more clearly, something not
achieved with ordinary lenses. The approach to
Hope Town Harbour puts all these cautions to
the test and it’s important to remember buoyage rules: when leaving the harbor the port
(red) should be passed on the boat’s starboard
(right) side. Upon entering the harbor, the port
(red) mark should be passed on the boat’s
port (left) side. Get it wrong and you are hard
aground in this narrow entrance.
Hope Town is one of the most picturesque
settlements in the Abacos, a quaint town of
pastel-colored weatherboard houses, many of
them beautifully restored. They surround the
large expanse of harbor that opens up after the
narrow channel. Founded by loyalists who fled
the emerging American Republic and declared
allegiance to the British crown, the town’s history is told in the Wyannie Malone Historical
Museum, which has many interesting artifacts,
documents, and photographs.
There are three marinas and a selection
of mooring buoys that offer safe haven; the
Lighthouse Marina proved to be the most suitable for us. We docked there overnight and used
its proximity to the lighthouse to undertake
a visit, climbing the spiral stairs to the top at
sunset to watch the lighthouse keeper wind the
clockwork mechanism and light the kerosene
lamp, still in use today just as it was when
first erected by the British Imperial Lighthouse
Service. That night we dined at the Hope Town
Lodge on the other side of the harbor, using our
tender to get there and mooring at the hotel’s
jetty. At the Lodge we ate freshly made conch
chowder followed by blackened wahoo with
rice and peas.
Leaving Elbow Cay next morning we headed
north toward Man ’o War Cay, a small island
very different from others in the chain. Here
live God-fearing folk who prohibit the sale of
alcohol and the opening of shops on Sunday.
The all-white population even insist that black
workers, who arrive each morning by ferry
to toil in the boat-building shops, leave the
island before sundown each day. Everyone here
seems to have Albury as a surname. The Albury
Brothers boatyard is famous for the line of
Albury boats it produces; the 29 foot halfdecked boat is built by hand and powered by
an outboard motor, but so strong is the brand
that there are boats built by Albury all over the
world. Further along the street is Albury’s Sail
Shop, where a group of five ladies, all called
Albury, create canvas ditty bags and all manner
of other canvas-made goods that are snapped
up by visitors. You won’t be surprised to learn
the supermarket is called Albury Stores and the
Man ’o War Marina is run by a pair of brothers
by the name of ... you guessed it.
Heading northwest we passed Scotland Cay
and on up to Great Guana Cay. Now if Hope
Town is inhabited by friendly folk and Man ’o
War by slightly strange, then Great Guana is
home to a host of hostile folk. The 95 inhabitants of this settlement have become wary of
strangers because they fear what outsiders are
doing to their island sanctuary – building a huge
village resort of holiday homes and a golf course.
Clearly it will change the island, but feelings are
very much divided as to how that change will
ultimately affect the island. We spent the night
on a mooring buoy leased out for the nightly fee
of $15 by the local scuba dive shop. The marina
has recently been enlarged to offer 66 slips and
is owned by a family called, can you believe it?
Albury! Great Guana boasts miles of unspoiled
beaches that run along its entire five and half
mile eastern shore. Perched high above it on
top of a huge sand dune is Nippers, a beach bar
BAHAMAS
Nippers
Nippers, a beach bar constructed from what
appears to be brightly painted driftwood. This
is the place to sip cocktails at sunset, stay for
a bar dinner of freshly caught fish, and boogie
well into the night to live music brought to you by
local artists and reggae bands
How to GetThere
From Miami or Fort Lauderdale many
carriers offer flights to Nassau and a
few offer a direct service into Marsh
Harbour on Great Abaco Island. Among
them: Continental Connections and
Vintage Props and Jets. Once in Nassau
flights can be arranged with Air Abaco,
which offers scheduled air taxi services
twice a day for around $90. The marina
where the boats are kept is just five
miles from the airport and the short taxi
ride costs around $20.
Information
24
constructed from what appears to be brightly
painted driftwood. This is the place to sip cocktails at sunset, stay for a bar dinner of freshly
caught fish, and boogie well into the night to live
music brought to you by local artists and reggae
bands. It’s a favorite hangout of the Barefoot
Man, whose CDs can be purchased there.
Getting to Green Turtle Cay involves passing
through the only stretch of water that demands
that permission be sought from the base before
attempting it. The Whale Cay passage is one of
the few passages not protected from the wrath
of the Atlantic by a reef and can, as a result,
be subject to bad weather. During the winter
months the pass can be a little uncomfortable
and in severe conditions is closed to charter
boats by Nautic Blue, which asks each boat to
check in by VHF before making the trip. Abaco
Yacht Services on Green Turtle Cay monitor the
stretch of water and can be contacted using
VHF channel 16 for a situation report.
White Sound is an almost totally enclosed
lagoon in the north of Green Turtle Cay while
Black Sound is its almost mirror image in the
south. Their entrances are just one mile apart.
Either makes a superb overnight stop or a base
from which to explore this pretty island and
hire a golf cart. There is enough to see and
do here to make it worthwhile, but be sure
a member of the crew is allotted the task of
designated driver because, deceptive though
they may sound, the Goombay Punches made
at Miss Ellie’s Blue Bay Bar are as lethal as they
come, but very moorish! To the north and west
lie Manjack Cay and the Crab Cays, which make
a great anchorage in which to spend a day just
enjoying the beach, swimming off the boat, and
snorkeling on the reefs. It gets fairly shallow
around the land and calls for the gunkholing
instincts that lie in every cruiser.
This probably marks the most northerly point
of a week-long charter and the only way back is
using the Whale Cay passage, where southbound
the rules remain the same. At this point we chose
to head toward Great Abaco Island and home
to the Treasure Cay Resort. It started out some
years ago as a small upmarket resort hotel and
marina and has grown, without losing its charm,
into a medium-sized holiday community with
many homes occupied by Europeans wintering
out their retirement. The main attraction here is
a stunning beach three miles long and selected
by the National Geographic Magazine as one of
the top 10 beaches of the world. The marina is
well staffed by cheerful and helpful dockmasters
who cannot do enough to help visitors. The Tipsy
Seagull Bar is a great way to start or even finish
an evening, and the resort’s many restaurants
offer a selection of cuisines to suit every taste
and pocket. A well-stocked supermarket allows
you a refueling stop for the galley, and a trip to
the bakery will put inches on your waistline just
looking at the cakes. It takes a lot of willpower to
turn down the carrot cake and I am so glad I lack
what it takes to do so.
Marsh Harbour is just an hour and half away
at this point, so you can afford to dawdle in
this well-run resort. If golf is your bag, then the
course is not one you can afford to miss.
Heading back is always the sad part of any
cruising holiday, but turning south at this point
does not necessarily mean the end of the voyage. Beyond and to the south of Marsh Harbour
are more enchanting anchorages and island
retreats to visit, yet more beach bars to prop up,
and more fish suppers to enjoy. Snake Cay, Little
Harbour, Cherokee Sound, and Schooner Bay
are just a few of the evocative names that lie in
wait for those who have more time. For us it was
time to tie up in Marsh Harbour and to thank the
Mooring Base Commander Samantha Cornish
and her staff for making our cruise around the
Abacos such a memorable one. YVC
Acknowledgments
Frances and Michael Howorth were the guests of
Nautic Blue, a division of the Moorings Charter
Company. They flew from Nassau to Marsh
Harbour courtesy of Abaco Air
About the Authors
Frances and Michael Howorth are a freelance photojournalist team who specialize in travel features on
the ultra large yacht and boutique cruise ship market.
michael@thehoworths.com
CARIBBEAN
Spotlight on
St. Barths
The Celebrities’ Playground
in the Caribbean
WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED
BY
YVONNE YORKE
Gustavia Harbour
Exclusive boutiques filled with local artisan
goods are juxtaposed with upscale designer
stores such as Hermes, Cartier and Gucci in a
two-block stretch of promenade along the megayacht-lined waterfront.
If there was ever a checklist for those seeking a refined yet laid-back Caribbean island
with rustic charm and bohemian authenticity, it might be go something like this: Luxurious
secluded villas for privacy? Check. Duty-free designer name boutiques? Check. Gourmet
dining in unpretentious surroundings? Check. A harbor to dock the yacht next to the ones
owned by celebrity pals? Double check. It’s an island where it seems all the 7,000 residents
know one another, except during the winter months when the world’s glitterati descend
on the island either by flight, or sail in on their sleek yachts. Even then, everyone appears
to know everyone – it’s as if it’s a private club that everyone wants to join. A private club
where only one name is necessary: Beyoncé, Diddy, Usher, and Valentino.
26
S
aint Barthélemy – more commonly known as ‘’St. Barths,’’ (as
the French calls it), ‘’St. Bart’s (the
preferred American spelling), or
by its nickname, ‘’The Land of
Naked French People’’, is located
at 17°54 N 62°50 W, in the heart of the French
West Indies, 15.5 miles southeast of St. Martin.
Most visitors arrive at St Barths by a 10-minute
flight, or a 40-minute ferry from St. Martin,
although flights are also available from Antigua
and Guadeloupe. For those with more cash and
less patience, private charter flights or speed
boats can also be arranged.
On February 22, 2007, both St. Barths and St.
Martin officially became an overseas collectivity of France, and part of the European Union.
What sets the eight-square-mile isle of St Barths
apart from many of its neighboring islands in
the Caribbean is the lack of glitzy overdevelopment or large chain hotels. Boasting pristine,
crystalline blue waters, and dramatic, volcanic
peaks, St Barths also has some of the most
spectacular white-sand beaches in the world,
many found in secluded coves, and protected
from development by stringent, environmentally friendly zoning. As a result, the beaches
on St. Barths are unspoilt and uncrowded Grand Cul-de-Sac has been named by the Travel
Channel as one of the 10 most beautiful beaches
in the world, and Colombier, once owned by the
Rockefellers, is accessible only by boat, or via a
footpath through butterfly fields. The presence
of many private coves around the island could
also explain the popularity of nude sunbathing by locals and European visitors alike. For
more active pursuits, there is diving, excellent
snorkeling among the coral reefs, fishing and of
course, sailing.
French is the official language at St. Barths,
although English is widely spoken. The island’s
reputation as the Caribbean St. Tropez owes
much to St. Barths’ appearance and its relaxed
ambience. The look of the island is very
Mediterranean – like a small village in the South
of France. It’s French speaking, with French
products, and a French lifestyle. Everybody buys
their bread in the mornings. The locals are also
known for their warmth and hospitality, and
a certain je ne sais quoi, sun-kissed sense of
style.
In the main town of Gustavia, exclusive
boutiques filled with local artisan goods are
juxtaposed with upscale designer stores such
as Hermes, Cartier and Gucci in a two-block
stretch of promenade along the mega-yachtlined waterfront. With one of the best boating facilities in the Caribbean, there are firstclass docking amenities as well as outfitting,
repair, and maintenance facilities at the island’s
numerous fully-equipped marinas.
When Christopher Columbus arrived on
these shores in 1493, he changed the name from
St. Barts Ouanaloa to St. Bartholomé, after his
brother. The island’s dry terrain meant that it
was unsuitable for agriculture, and therefore
slave labor was never used here, resulting in
a different cultural mix than neighboring St.
Martin. The French became interested in St.
Barths due to its prized location within the West
Indian Trade Route, and many of St. Barths’
present-day residents are descendents from the
Norman and Breton fishermen who settled in
the 1600s. France eventually traded the island to
Sweden in 1794 and Swedish King Gustav III (of
which the main town Gustavia is named after)
was instrumental in developing the port and
the island. St. Barths was eventually sold back
Le Select
Jimmy Buffet spent so much time at the yachtsmen’s bar Le Select that the outdoor restaurant
next door was named in honor of his song,
“Cheeseburgers in Paradise”
27
CARIBBEAN
Baie of St. Jean
When de Haenen arrived on the island in 1935, he bought a rocky promontory jutting into the Baie of St.
Jean for a fistful of dollars. That act turned fortuitous.
“Despite the
celestial sightings
during the peak
season of
December and
January, St. Barths’
unspoilt charm and
leisurely way of life
remains, and the
island doesn’t feel
overcrowded”
28
to the French in 1878, and nowadays, France
supplies a steady stream of workers for the
island’s tourism industry including chefs, DJs
and hoteliers.
It was actually an eccentric Dutch adventurer named Remy de Haenen, who is widely
acknowledged to have put St. Barths “on the
map” – or more specifically, onto the celebrities’ radar. When de Haenen arrived on the
island in 1935, he bought a rocky promontory
jutting into the Baie of St. Jean for a fistful
of dollars. That act turned fortuitous, (much
like the Dutch buying Manhattan island from
the Indians for the equivalent of $24), when
de Haenen decided to build his home, and
subsequently, a seven-bedroom hotel on it.
Named “Eden Rock”, de Haenen invited glamorous friends in the mid-50s such as Greta
Garbo, Howard Hughes, Robert Mitchum and
Gore Vidal to come and stay at his property.
Elected the island’s first mayor in 1962, de
Haenen also improved the harbor, installed
electricity and telephones, and built schools
throughout St. Barths. A few years later, oil
magnate David Rockefeller bought strategic parcels of land around the island to
protect it from hotel construction, and in
the 70s, affluent yacht-owners such as Ari
Onassis, onboard the “Christina”, started to
dock in Gustavia. When the President of the
American Ballet Theater bought a home on
St. Barths, he attracted an artistic and literary following including Mikhail Baryshnikov,
Rudolph Nureyev, Beverly Sills and Tennessee
Williams.
By the 80s, St Barths had become an established playground of the rich and the famous.
The beau monde dined at “seen and be seen”
restaurants such as Le Lafayette Club (Grand
Cul De Sac - 590 27 62 51), or danced at chic
nightspots in Gustavia. Jimmy Buffet spent so
much time at the yachtsmen’s bar Le Select
(Gustavia 590 27 86 87) that the outdoor restaurant next door was named in honor of his
song, “Cheeseburgers in Paradise”. Along with
the beautiful people came the fashion photographers, and with them the supermodels:
Gisele Bunchen, Claudia Schiffer, Kate Moss,
and the rest of the glamazon pack. Stella
McCartney shot her ad campaign (featuring
the lithe Ms. Moss) here two years ago, and
St Barths’ winning combination of breathtaking backdrops and sophisticated allure has
been captured in numerous fashion spreads.
Recently, Penelope Cruz, Nicole Kidman and
Paul McCartney all holidayed here, and Brad
Pitt had been spotted by eagle-eyed watchers
allegedly sunbathing in the buff.
Despite the celestial sightings during the
peak season of December and January, St.
Barths’ unspoilt charm and leisurely way of
life remains, and the island doesn’t feel overcrowded, unlike, for example, the Hamptons
in the summer. Part of the reason is that it
is not particularly easy to get to (unless you
have a yacht), and it is not really the destination for those without some fairly deep
pockets. There are only about 25 hotels on
St. Barths, most of them with fewer than
15 rooms. Many visitors opt to rent one of
CARIBBEAN
Eden Rock’s beachfront restaurant
Movie-star-worthy signatures at Eden Rock
include the resort’s logo beamed by a spotlight
onto the beach at night like at a film premiere;
and to keep sunbathers cool, light mists of water
are projected from a pipe along the awning at
the Sand Bar.
Information
30
the hundreds of private villas situated along
the beachfront, or terraced into the hillside
around the island.
For those who don’t wish to eschew fivestar personalized service, private infinity
pools, and 1000-thread count sheets while
on holiday, St Barths offers some of the most
exclusive resorts in the Caribbean. Remy de
Haenen’s Eden Rock, now a Relais & Chateau
property, had been purchased in 1995, and
expanded by David and Jane Matthews. With
33 guestrooms including three suites in the
main house, four cottages and five villas on
the beach, the Matthews individually decorated each suite with furnishings and artwork
from their old country house in England,
and with artifacts collected from around
the world, along with pieces from Mr. de
Haenen’s private collection. The feeling is
similar to staying at a friend’s lushly-appointed, tropical beach house – that is if your
friend’s beach house comes with satellite
TV, outdoor Jacuzzis, and Bvlgari toiletries.
Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report crowned
Eden Rock as, “the island’s most distinctive
and fashionable boutique hotel”.
Standout suites include the 1,500 sq ft,
Howard Hughes Loft Suite, perched at the top
of the rock promontory with a bird’s eye, 360degree view across the bay. The Greta Garbo
Suite evokes the glamour of 1930s Hollywood
with a wrap-around terrace, and a dramatic
bed with a half-moon shaped, white-leather
headboard. Other movie-star-worthy signatures at Eden Rock include the resort’s logo
beamed by a spotlight onto the beach at night
like at a film premiere; and to keep sunbathers cool, light mists of water are projected
from a pipe along the awning at the Sand
Bar, Eden Rock’s beachfront restaurant. With
creative touches such as these, who needs a
personal assistant? The resort’s other restaurant, On the Rocks (Saint Jean 05 90 29 79 99),
has earned a reputation on the island with
its innovative menu, and its stunning location built on the side of the promontory, with
multi-levels terraces overlooking the coral
reef-fringed waters below.
As expected from an island with a wealth
of French culinary talent, St Barths is a haven
for those with gourmet appetites and refined
palates. From elegant dining rooms to unassuming beach side cafes, it is the Gallic-influenced fare that shines. A local icon, and the
“must go to” restaurant favored by celebrities
and St. Barths regulars is Maya’s (Saint Jean
590 29 83 70). Despite having never advertised,
part-owner and chef Maya Gurley has been
packing in devoted fans to her open-air, waterfront restaurant on the outskirts of Gustavia.
Reservations are hard to come by, but guests
who manage to secure a table are greeted
warmly, and treated to the freshest local seafood served up with Creole inspirations.
Perhaps the appeal of Maya’s is due to the
similarities between the restaurant, and life
on the island itself: warm and unpretentious,
sophisticated and unhurried, with just a bit
of heat to spice things up once in awhile. It
seems that the more things change, the more
things remain the same on St. Barths – a little
oasis of France in the Caribbean. YVC
www.st-barths.com
www.edenrockhotel.com
About the Writer
Yvonne Yorke is an established international travel
writer and photographer specializing in travel destinations, luxury resorts and spas, yachting and cruise
travel. Her work has been featured in leading travel
and lifestyle publications in the U.S, Europe, Asia,
Australia and South America including CNN Traveller,
Departures, InStyle, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, and many
others. She has also been a foreign correspondent
for W and Women’s Wear Daily.
yorke_yvonne@yahoo.com
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feeldifferent
SOUTH AMERICA
The Amazon rainforest
is home to thousands
of exotic species
Amazon: Journey
to Exotica
BY TONY KARACSONYI
32
The Amazon River and its many tributaries, like the Napo River and Pastaza River, flow
through one of the globe’s last wilderness areas. In the canopy, a sky garden of exotic
bromeliads and plants thrive. A myriad of species lives in the rainforest – a veritable greenhouse for the globe’s exotic flora and fauna, as well as people from millennia-old indigenous cultures. Ecuador is one of the best countries to see the Amazon.
Y
uchana Lodge, nestled on the
banks of the Napo River, near
the tiny rainforest community of
Mondana, sits amid 3,600 acres
of primary and secondary rainforest. Home to thousands of exotic
species, this land is part of Yuchana’s protected
rainforest. The word Yuchana means “a place
of learning” from the Quichua indigenous language. There are about 10,000 Quichua native
Indians living on the upper Napo River.
“The Foundation for Integrated Education
and Development” (FUNEDESIN) built Yuchana
Lodge in 1995 to help its fight against poverty,
disease, and the destruction of Ecuador’s tropical
forests. The lodge invests its profits into the foundation’s high school education program, sustainable development, and conservation projects.
Where Yuchana really shines is in introducing
guests to and getting them involved in the local
culture. One afternoon we visited a Quichua
traditional healer man, who performed a spiritual cleansing ceremony on each of us. I felt truly
refreshed after the cleansing ceremony, which
involved blowing smoke over our bodies and
being dusted with bunches of leaves.
As we walked a village path, Juan, our nature
guide, told us intimate stories of his training as a
young shaman in his home village of Cambandsa,
near the Peruvian border. We tried the healer man’s
blowgun and spear on a fresh palm stump, but our
shots paled in comparison to the old master.
Juan led us on some of Yuchana’s 20 kilometers of jungle trails. His ability to spot creatures
was exceptional. We saw poison arrow frogs,
birds, fungi, sleeping bats, and forest dragon lizards. He even whistled in for us – using a special
monkey call – a troupe of capuchin monkeys.
Juan and fellow nature guide, Delfin, are local
naturalists employed by Yuchana. Both come
from remote communities, speaking fluent
Spanish and English. Juan’s knowledge of flora
and fauna was remarkable.
We found poison arrow frogs, the most common of which was red/maroon in color on top,
and bright blue on the sides and legs. Indians use
the toxin of poison arrow frogs to coat their blowpipe darts. Even a small amount in the human
bloodstream is lethal. Only three species of the
family Dendrobatidae, genus Phyllobates, are in
fact poisonous.
Late one afternoon, Juan took us birding for
hoatzin, on a tiny owbox lake in the jungle. We
walked along the river bank, spotting exquisite
butterflies and birds along the way. We arrived in
time to see several hoatzins dancing and calling
to each other.
The facilities at Yuchana Lodge are quite
advanced in that you can flush toilet paper and
drink water from the tap. The lodge uses solar
power and is switching to canoes powered by
low-grade palm oil.
The dining room is very homely and some
students come over from the agricultural school
to work in the kitchen and dining room. The
meals feature local foods like stinging nettles,
which tastes like spinach. Almost all of the food
is grown by the agricultural school nearby.
At Yuchana, we sampled the natural produce
of Yachana Gourmet, which buys cacao from local
farmers to make exotic chocolate for the lodge. An
exotic “Yachana twist” is served with every meal,
as well as homemade chocolate spread and jams
made from cacao and fruit harvested in the area.
Since 1991, FUNEDESIN and its projects
have invested approximately $4 million into the
Ecuadorian Amazon, and saved 4,300 acres of
tropical and secondary rainforest. They established the Yuchana Technical High School and
Mondana Medical Clinic, which provides fulltime health care to 8,000 Quichua indigenous
and colonists living on the upper Napo River.
All the profits from Yuchana Lodge go to support FUNEDESIN and its programs, like the pilot
project to replace destructive cattle herds with
endemic capybara – a kind of giant rodent that’s
good to eat.
The lodge is a two-hour canoe ride from Coca.
A three or four night stay will allow you to spend
some quality time in the jungle.
At sunset, the views up river are stunning. If
there was a classic image of the upper Amazon, it
is from Yuchana Lodge – a golden, winding river
snaking its way into the unknown.
Sacha Lodge, located in the same region as
the Napo Wildlife Center, provides excellent
accommodation, meals, and nature guides. You
can take dugout canoe safaris and rainforest
canopy walks using a 43 meter–high observation tower. Exotic wildlife includes sloth and red
howler monkeys. An absolute highlight of Sacha
Lodge and Napo Wildlife Center is the spectacu-
33
SOUTH AMERICA
lar clay licks – where yellow-crowned amazons, macaws, and parakeets arrive en masse
to lick the clay on the river bank. It’s like a Rio
Carnival for birds!
Kapawi Lodge on the Pastaza River was
next. This river has carved the deepest,
straightest valley in the Eastern Andes, running through Ecuador, Peru, and into Brazil.
A 240 km flight from Quito, via Coca, saw
us land at a dirt runway at Kapawari. When
it rains, the pilot must wait for the runway to
drain before landing. The closest town is a 10day hike, but this remoteness is what makes
Kapawi Lodge special.
We were met by the Achuar Indians, who
operate Kapawi Lodge together with a company named Canodros. In 2011, the lodge will
be fully handed over to the Achuar people,
who will continue running it.
For the next eight days, we hiked in the
jungle with expert nature guides, caught piranha, drank chicha or nijiamanch (manioc
beer) with the Achuar, and learned about
Shamanism.
Achuar Indians, who drink ayahuasca or
stramoniums, are said to communicate with
their ancestors and with nature – jaguar, anaconda, even trees. They can foresee the future
and these visions help them make decisions.
Even normal dreams are interpreted literally.
Both the Achuar and Shuar people cultivate
hallucinogenic plants, namely the stramoniums named chinki tukitai, yumi maikina, and
juunt maikiua. The latter produces several
days of intense hallucinations during which
one contacts the arutam-ancestral spirits. One
kind of stramonium even enhances the senses
of dogs – for hunting I imagine.
On the Ishpingo River, we motored
upstream for hours, treated to elusive sightings of pink dolphins, sloth, and monkeys
such as saddle-backed tamarin and dusky ti-ti.
We marveled at elegant hanging nests made by
lovely yellow birds named oropendola.
We went swimming in the river, despite
fears of black caiman and piranha. Our
Ecuadorian guide Felipe didn’t swim too far
from the canoe and our Achuar guide didn’t
swim at all – perhaps he knew something we
didn’t?
As for piranha, every time I threw my fishing line in, the hook would come back clean of
meat. I have never felt so much energy getting
back into our canoe, as when Felipe yelled,
“Caiman behind you!” He was just joking of
course. It’s safe to go swimming in the river
when water levels are high.
We met an Achuar elder and his family, a
highlight of visiting Kapawi Lodge. We were
each kindly given a bowl of nijiamanch (manioc beer) to drink. It offends them if you do not
at least take a little taste. The women chew the
manioc root, which is then spit back into the
bowl, to aid fermentation. Some visitors were
too scared to drink it, but I enjoyed the flavor.
Nijiamanch provides all the calories and
carbohydrates they need, but the Achuar do
fish and hunt, which provides protein. They
also grow bananas, sweet potatoes, hot chilies,
sugar cane, and guava.
In 1968–1970, Catholic and Evangelical
missionaries first established peaceful contact
with the Achuar Indians, converting them to
christianity. Their way of living has not been
the same since, as the missionaries encouraged them to live in villages, instead of being
more widely spread through the forest.
Kapawi Lodge takes guests to a clay lick.
There is a great sense of excitement as you
navigate the river at dawn. As the sun rises,
yellow-crowned amazons, chestnut-fronted
macaw, dusky-headed parakeet, and orangecheeked parrot flock to the clay lick.
We often spotted pink dolphins hunting
in the river. The dolphins would just keep on
swimming round and round in the river eddies
looking for fish. We often heard them spout
and saw pink/grey backs as they slipped back
into the river. Their senses, other than eyesight
which is poor, are highly developed for hunting in the flooded rainforest.
A unique feature of pink dolphins, Inia
geoffrensis, is the unfused vertebrae in their
necks, which lets them do 180 degree head
turns. This helps them maneuver in flooded
forests and shallow water. Instead of a dorsal
Poison arrow frogs
The most common of which was red/
maroon in color on top, and bright blue on
the sides and legs. Indians use the toxin of
poison arrow frogs to coat their blowpipe
darts. Even a small amount in the human
bloodstream is lethal.
34
Information
More About the Jungle Lodges...
Kapawi Lodge: On the Pastaza River,
you can stay at Kapawi Lodge. There
are thatched cottages on a lake, with
a central dining room, excellent meals,
and both English-speaking and Achuar
nature guides. There is a 13.6kg weight
limit when flying there by light aircraft.
www.kapawi.com
www.tropiceco.com
Yuchana Lodge: On the Napo River,
you can stay at Yuchana Lodge, an
award winner, well known for its work
with the local community. Yuchana has
a party atmosphere with expert nature
guides. The lodge now operates an
“adopt an acre of rainforest program”
www.yachana.com
www.tropiceco.com.
www.funedesin.org
Napo Wildlife Center: This lodge offers
exceptional wildlife viewing – especially
primates. There is a clay lick for parrots and macaws on the banks of the
Napo River. The thatched rooms are
very comfortable, with a large central
dining room and expert nature guides.
If watching wildlife is your primary interest, try this one.
www.napowildlifecenter.com
How to Get There...
Fly to Quito in Ecuador, then by light
aircraft to Coca, or if visiting Kapawi
Lodge, fly to Kapawari.
What to Take...
Travel light – bring a day pack for boating and jungle hikes. Bring binoculars,
sunglasses, light shirts, shorts, walking
shoes, sandals, swimmers, sunscreen,
insect repellent, and malaria medication.
fin, they have a hump on their back. Achuar
people believe they are sacred and do not hunt
them.
There are jaguars, but you would be lucky
to see one. Most nights we went spotlighting
for frogs and insects. The jungle comes alive
after dark with frogs, salamanders, wandering
spiders, tail-less whip scorpion, and snakes
– false coral snake and brown tree snake. We
even saw a green viper swimming across the
river at night.
Kapawi Lodge has some 20 double cabins
built around a lake. Each has a private bath
and a balcony with lake views. There is no
piped hot water but staff bring “solar bags”
of hot water to your cabin. The lodge uses
solar power, biodegradable soaps, and recycles
rubbish. The food is excellent and served in a
main dining room.
The Napo Wildlife Center on the Napo
River was our next visit. To reach the lodge,
you must leave the motorized canoe at the
main river and with the help of guides, pole
and paddle your way by canoe to an oxbow
lake where the lodge is located.
We watched snail-eating kites prying water
snails from their shells. After dark, we went
paddling, armed with a spotlight, and saw
dozens of caiman eyes, as well as a “fairy land”
of firefly lights on the water edges.
One evening we encountered a family of
giant otters frolicking in the creek – more
magic!
We watched pygmy marmosets sucking sap
from the trees, and a troupe of golden-mantle tamarins near the lodge. There’s a special
viewing tower at the lodge.
Meal times were spent with guests and our
nature guide, George. The meals were excellent and the service on par with the finest
nature lodges.
The lodge is a great place to see Amazonian
wildlife, especially primates – red howler, squirrel monkey, white-fronted capuchin monkey,
pygmy marmoset, white-bellied spider monkey, saddleback tamarin, and golden-mantle
tamarin.
All three lodges provide different experiences – although visitors would have a great
stay at any of these. For nature lovers, I would
recommend Napo Wildlife Center; for culture,
Kapawi Lodge; and for a good mix, Yuchana
Lodge.
As our days came to an end in Ecuador,
we clambered into motorized canoes for our
journey back to Quito. Our hearts were still on
the Amazon – mightiest of rivers. YVC
About the Writer
Tony Karacsonyi is a professional marine photographer who has been recognised globally for his
exciting images. Marine photography has taken Tony
to some of the world’s great places such as Papua
New Guinea’s: Siassi, Trobriand and D’Entrecasteaux
Islands,Tonga, Great Barrier Reef, Sabah, Ningaloo
Reefs and Australia’s Coral Sea. In 1998, he was
awarded with the prestigious Australian Geographic
“Photographer of the Year”, for photography on giant
cuttlefish and won several international awards,
including a ‘runner up’ position in the “Wildlife
Photographer of The Year” award in London, during
1996, 1997, 1998.
tony@tonykphoto.com.au
Information
35
YACHT PROFILE
Isn’t She Lovely?
M/Y Nibani’s
classic pedigree
shines through
her modern
rebuild
WRITTEN BY
JAMIE MATUSOW
A graceful canoe-stern motoryacht, M/Y Nibani’s extensive two-year interior/exterior refit
has resulted in a combination of 20th century elegance and 21st century amenities.
Nibani Specifications
Overall length: ................. 39.60 m (130 feet)
Built: .................................. Maritima de Axpe
Cruising speed: ...................10 knots cruising
Accommodation: .......... 10 guests in 4 double
and 1 twin cabins
Crew: ............................................................ 9
Special Features: ...Very relaxed atmosphere
on board. Spacious decks with lots of
privacy. Two big and comfortable tenders.
Tenders & Toys: ............... 2 x Solemar tender
(6.5m with two engines and 5.8m).
Cruising area: .......... Winter in the Caribbean
and summer in the Mediterranean
36
In 1956, newlyweds Grace Kelly and Prince
Rainier of Monaco spent their royal honeymoon
cruising the Mediterranean on a sleek 147ft luxury
canoe-stern motoryacht given to them as a wedding present by a friend who knew a thing or two
about the design of large vessels: Aristotle Onassis.
The prince and princess’s yacht had been built
in the 1920s, when the canoe-stern yacht—a traditional vessel with a rounded shape to the hull in
the stern—was more common. Today, this shape
is rarely used in the construction of superyachts.
The 130ft M/Y Nibani, however, was built in
1970, with the same classic canoe-stern design as
the yacht gifted to Monaco’s sovereigns. Guests
chartering M/Y Nibani are treated not only to the
beauty of the streamlined rounded stern, but one
that also now flaunts new teak decks with luxurious
entertainment areas, part of the vessel’s extensive
2004-2006 refit. Additional updates include new
navigation and communications equipment, air
conditioning, fire and safety systems, new generators, new water makers, and totally rebuilt engines.
M/Y Nibani’s interior
Inside, the yacht’s décor reflects an Asianinspired feel, with lots of bamboo and clean lines.
There is plenty of room for ten guests, with four
double cabins and one twin, all en-suite. The large
master stateroom on the main deck assures privacy.
Moving aft on the main deck from the master stateroom is the spacious dining room and
light-filled saloon, then the aft deck with its large
oblong table, perfect for alfresco dining. The
lower deck, on the stern, houses three doubles
and one twin, all with en-suite baths. All cabins
are equipped with TV, DVD, and stereo systems.
The master cabin and the main saloon also have
flat screen TVs and Bose surround systems.
Nine crew offer a nearly one on one ratio for
impeccable service; quarters are forward on the
lower deck, in five en-suite cabins.
Plenty of toys provide fun and games at sea,
including two tenders, a Laser, water skis, a
WaveRunner, and more.
M/Y Nibani’s extensive rebuild guarantees
that you’ll enjoy a restorative, restful and relaxing
time aboard. Just returned to the Mediterranean
after a winter chartering in the Caribbean,
Nibani’s summer base port is Genoa. She is available for charter at a rate of 60,000 euros per week,
plus expenses. YVC
About the Writer
Jamie Matusow is a freelance writer based in New York.
jbmatusow@optonline.net
Information
Peter Insull’s Yacht Marketing
+33 (0) 493 34 22 42
Fax: +33 (0) 492 90 43 73,
charter@insull.com
BROKERAGE . NEW CONSTRUCTION . CHARTER . MANAGEMENT AND CREW PLACEMENT
YOUR CHARTER EXPERIENCE
ELEGANT, PRIVATE, RELIABLE
M/Y ARGYLL
5 Staterooms — Elevator to all levels
June Montagne joins
Northrop and Johnson
Fort Lauderdale!
June brings 23 years of yachting
experience to the Florida office. June, a
member of the Florida Yacht Brokers
Association, the American Yacht Charter
Association, and a board member of
Charter Yacht Brokers Association, is well
equipped to handle any charter scenario,
M/Y SOVEREIGN
6 Staterooms — Great charter crew!
worldwide. Service, honesty, and hard
work are June's trademarks!
June Montagne
954-522-3344 or june@njyachts.com
F O R T L A U D E R D A L E • B O S T O N • N E W P O R T • C A N N E S • N E W P O R T B E A C H • S E AT T L E • A N N A P O L I S
17 Rose Drive • Fort Lauderdale, FL 33316 • Ph: (954) 522-3344 Fax: (954) 522-9500 Email: info@njyachts.com
RIVIERA MAYA
Mayan
Magic
See the sights by day,
then party the night away!
M/Y Vingo sails into port on the Riviera Maya.
Chartering a yacht to explore the region provides
the flexibility to visit outstanding archaeological
sites, snorkel and dive the abundant reefs, fish
for wahoo and sailfish, then hit the restaurants
and clubs in Playa del Carmen and Cancun. An
onboard helicopter makes other Mayan ruins,
such as Chichen Itza, easily accessible.
Cruising along Mexico’s
enchanting Caribbean coast reveals
the region’s richest treasures
Don’t forget to bring along a beach towel when you tour the ancient walled city of Tulum,
for the magnificent sprawling ruins share center stage with glistening, turquoise waters and
some of the most beautiful powdery white-sand beaches on the Yucatan.
WRITTEN BY
JAMIE MATUSOW
PHOTOS BY
JAY MATUSOW
T
ulum is one of Mexico’s few Mayan sites built directly on the coast, a constant reminder to
visitors of its historical role as a major seaport and trade center—and its modern role as a
destination for spectacular beaches and a wide array of water sports. Whether approached
by sea or land, the darkened stone remains of the civilization that thrived on the Yucatan
Peninsula in the 13th century can only make you marvel at the level of sophistication the
Mayans achieved. Precise holes and windows engineered in some of the stone structures
filtered in sunlight and moonlight in such a way that Mayan dwellers developed accurate clocks and
calendars and tracked astrological events and special occasions such as solstices.
Originally named Tulum Zama, which means “sunrise” or “dawn” in Mayan, the fortress city faces
east, with walls on three sides and steep limestone cliffs that tower above the sea on the fourth. Some
historians believe that the city may have been built originally to worship the sun gods, and certainly a
more ideal location could not have been chosen. But Tulum’s advantageous position also linked it to
commercial centers, and it became a prominent stop on the Central American trade route. Long, doublehulled canoes arrived in those days, filled with cotton, salt, honey, jade and feathered capes. Today, private yachts can anchor where that thriving trade once took place, and guests can disembark to tour the
ruins and enjoy the beaches—and, no doubt, honor the sun gods!
Touring the ruins
Tulum’s many structures sprawl out across a parched, grassy plateau high above the sea. Enter through
the arched gate in the thick, north wall and you’ll feel as though you’re stepping back about a thousand
years. Sixteen major constructions, accented by almond trees and a few fruity-colored bougainvillea
38
El Castillo
The castle sits high
above the Caribbean,
with commanding
views of the coast.
Reptiles Rule
Iguanas bask in the sun on many of the walls around Tulum.
and hibiscus, await exploration, from shrines and
graves to temples and buildings that once housed
farmers, laborers, astrologers, religious leaders
and nobility. Most prominent is El Castillo, the
castle, which sits high above the Caribbean, with
commanding views of the coast. At one time, it
most likely functioned as a lookout and a lighthouse to guide boats through the offshore reefs.
Today, those reefs teem with vibrant sea life, and
you can snorkel right from the beach beneath El
Castillo.
Unlike Mayan archaeological sites such as
Chichen Itza and Coba, which are situated inland
and thus better protected and preserved from the
elements, Tulum’s advantageous position on the
coast has also exposed it to repeated poundings by
surf and wind. As a result, many of the decorative
stone carvings have lost their fine details. Steps
have eroded. The red paint that once swathed the
buildings has almost completely worn off, though
if you look carefully, you can still see traces of the
ochre color on some walls and around certain
figures. And because Tulum is one of the most
frequented destinations on the Yucatan, the sheer
number of visitors has added to the wear and tear,
prompting a conservation effort that now prohibits visitors from climbing and entering the ruins.
While it’s frustrating to know that fabulous
frescoes lie just beyond some of the doorways,
being unable to view them adds to the mystery
of the whole experience. So much is known—yet
unknown about this civilization and community.
Visitors are amply rewarded with the architectural
details that are still in evidence, from massive columns and steep limestone steps, to finely chiseled
figures of gods and agricultural forms.
The diving god is an image that can be spotted
throughout Tulum—on both interiors and exteriors. One of the most visible is the stone carving on
the Temple of the Descending God. The building
also shows traces of some of the original red pigments, in the shape of two hands. Our tour guide
tells us that inside the Temple of Frescoes, there’s
a mural honoring both the diving guide and the
goddess of corn. The guide also notes that while
the diving god is depicted as descending from the
heavens to receive the offerings of men, he may
also have represented birth.
Planning ahead
When you visit Tulum, keep in mind that
weather conditions can be brutal—and humans
are not as impervious to the sun as the city’s current occupants: large, leathery iguanas that lie
motionless on walls and ledges, seamlessly blending with the gray-black palette and the rough
texture of the stone. Be sure to wear a hat, bring
water, and apply plenty of sunscreen. Try to avoid
going at midday. And when you’re through wandering in awe, pull out your towel, and head to
the beach for a dip in yet another magical setting
—beneath El Castillo, on the Riviera Maya. YVC
About the Writer
Isla Mujeres
On Isla Mujeres, a small island up
the coast and across the bay from
Tulum, another Mayan ruin, a temple
dedicated to Ixchel, the goddess of
fertility, is perched above the sea. Built
on the easternmost point in Mexico,
it’s the first place to receive the rays of
the sun. A plaque on the site invites:
“Come back early enough tomorrow
and you can tell everyone you were
literally the first person in Mexico to see
the sun that day!”
39
PHOTO: ROY HULSBERGEN
MARINAS
A new real estate
market heats up
for large boat
owners
Yachtominiums solve the problem of finding
dock space for large vessels.
Yachtominiums
A shortage of dock space in South Florida and the Bahamas has launched a marina megabusiness: purchasing slips to ensure harbor in chosen ports of call.
WRITTEN BY
JAMIE MATUSOW
What ItTakes to Call a
Yachtominium Home
Hornaday says listings in South Florida and
the Bahamas currently sell for...
Florida Keys: $10,000 per foot*
Fort Lauderdale: $15,000 per foot*
Bahamas: Generally from $5,000 to
$9,000 per foot*, with
some spots now being
offered in presale at
$12,000 per foot*
* PRICES BASED ON 120FT-PLUS SLIPS.
About the Writer
40
T
he move to acquire permanent dockage
for large yachts first surfaced in Key West,
where, at the end of 2006, Ginger Hornaday
(www.gingerhornaday.com) sold a 200-foot slip
for $2 million. “The market just took off overnight,” says Hornaday, a vivacious entrepreneur
and real estate executive who first got hooked on
yachting when, at 19, she walked down a dock at
Bahia Mar, landed a job as a chef on a large boat,
and never looked back.
Hornaday eventually parlayed her knowledge
of yachting into a marketing niche, but she says,
“Even five years ago I never thought I’d be selling
dockominiums and yachtominiums.”
Dockominiums are distinguished as marina
space for yachts 80 feet and under; yachtominium is the term coined for yacht slips larger than
80 feet.
With coastal properties vanishing due to
expansive development, dockage is becoming
more and more scarce, and, in many cases, yacht
owners are being forced to scramble for desirable
locations. Not only do yachts require a home
port, they’re meant to travel, and thus require
slips in many different venues. When there’s no
room at the marina, it can put a real damper
on plans and force changes in itineraries. With
almost 800 yachts over 80 feet reportedly now
under construction, Hornaday stresses that the
Ginger Hornaday
Specializing in sales and marketing in the South
Florida marina market.
shortage of prime spots in popular areas is likely
to grow.
So what’s a yacht owner to do?
Yacht owners who favor particular areas of
South Florida and the Bahamas are discovering the advantages of securing permanent
marina space for their vessels – dockominiums
or yachtominiums. “In the Caribbean,” says
Hornaday, “the idea is newer and people are still
adjusting to the concept.” But, she adds, for those
who travel from South Florida to the Bahamas
and/or the Caribbean, it makes sense to purchase yachtominiums in several locations. Then,
yachtominium owners can schedule their preferences for stays in those areas and lease the space
to other yachts while they’re traveling elsewhere.
“The marina business has changed radically
over the last three years,” says Hornaday, largely
due to developers purchasing valuable coastal
properties. According to Hornaday, there’s currently more than $13 billion of approved developments in the Bahamas, with many developments planning to build marinas.
“It’s a trend that’s going to keep on growing,”
says Hornaday. Yachtominiums and dockominiums have not only created a new market in real
estate by offering yacht owners always-accessible
dock space, they’ve brought new meaning – and
convenience – to the concept of coastal living. YVC
On the
rarest piece of waterfront
a masterpiece will be created.
A Collectible.
Home selections in this once-in-a-lifetime
real estate opportunity are being accepted for a very limited time
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CLASSIC YACHTS
Rags
to Riches
From
WRITTEN BY
PAULA FARQUHARSON
Alex Laird
Alex Laird, who restored Partridge, has been her captain for five seasons in the Mediterranean, leading her
to victory in several races.
How a letter from ‘Uncle Peter’
led to a Victorian cutter being
found and restored
It is an awesome trip back in time to see the Mediterranean Sea transformed into a veritable history book on water when the classic yachts make their not-so-shy appearance on
About the Writer
Paula Farquharson is an editor of The Riviera Times newspaper. Originally from Ireland, she worked in New York and
is now based in Nice, France, where she learned to sail.
pfarquharson@publiazur.com
42
the Côte d’Azur waters. Summer and autumn are peak times for a string of classic regattas
on the French and Italian Rivieras, as the billowing straight-line sails of these historical
beauties strut their stuff and thrill onlookers in the port.
O
ne of these classic yachts is Partridge,
which proudly spread her sails last season at all the top racing events on the
Mediterranean. These included the prestigious
Saint-Tropez regatta held last October, as well
the Vele d’Epoca in Imperia (Italy), and the Voiles
du Vieux Port at Marseille (France) in June, and
finished a respectable second place at the latter
two events. Not bad at all after an absence of four
years from the prestigious classic circuit – as she
recently underwent a refit. Not surprising either
since at the time of her launch onto the circuit
back in 1998, she stunned everyone by winning
every cup and trophy going. It was obvious she
was fast for an old Victorian lady – 122 years old
to be exact.
Who’s That Girl?
Partridge 1885 is a beautiful gaff-rig 22-meter
cutter and the oldest, classic racing yacht on the
Mediterranean circuit, making her most worthy
of her esteemed pedigree. Built in 1885, as you
might guess, her origins are traced back to the
land where her Majesty the Queen reigns, in the
United Kingdom. At the time it was Queen Victoria
who ruled the empire. However, all these pertinent details were lost in the mud for years as she
lay nameless at the side of a river bed, waiting to
be saved from her terrible fate. It was quite fitting
that one of her fellow countrymen discovered and
rescued her.
She was found by British sailor and architect,
Alexander Laird, in August 1980, stuck in the mud
on the bed of the River Blackwater off the
east coast of England. Her watery grave bore
an apt name for the grim home she rested in
for some unknown years, rendering her into a
wretched state; although, as Alex explained to
YV&C, she was thankfully over the high-water
mark and thus relatively dry, considering.
Finding Partridge was not just an historical triumph for the classic yacht circuit, but
also something that was to completely change
Laird’s life and take him from his home in
England to the south of France where he now
runs Classic Works boatyard, restoring classic
yachts, re-fitting yachts and building replicas.
old boats.” It was obvious from her splendid hull
and line that this shell had regal origins.
After Alex found her in August 1980 in the River
Blackwater, he transported her to his parents’ garden on the Isle of Wight. The trip required a giant
truck and a 25-ton crane. “I told them she would
be refit within two years and out of their backyard.
She was there 8 years!” Alex was able to “dabble”
with her restoration, but time and money delayed
his ambitious plans. However, finally, a naval
architecture degree later and much time researching both financial funding and the intricate details
of Partridge’s design meant that Alex was ready to
return her to her former glory. The original owner
who had dumped her in the Blackwater was found
and paid a few hundred pounds for Partridge in
her sorry state. He also gave Alex a few hints as to
her origins. “He told me that the yacht had carried the name Tanagra and that an old oak deck
beam had ‘Harry 1885’ carved on it. Studying
the Lloyd’s Register at the Greenwich National
Maritime Museum, he traced her back through
the years to Camper and Nicholsons’ shipyard and
through several name changes including Rupee,
Polly, and Tanagra and finally to her original name
Partridge. Alex finally had the proof that the old
hull he and Uncle Peter (Peter Saxby) now owned
was indeed the former Victorian cutter designed
by British civil engineer and marine architect,
John Beavor-Webb (1849-1927). He promptly and
proudly re-registered her under her original name,
Partridge.
Victorian History
Partridge 1885 is the oldest classic racing
yacht on the Mediterranean circuit. She is a
gaff-rig 22-meter cutter whose straight stem
always distinguishes her from the rest of the
old fleet. She was built in 1885 by Camper
and Nicholsons. She is currently moored at
the shipyard La Ciotat, near Marseille in the
south of France, under the watchful eye of
Alexander Laird, who underwent the magnificent restoration work and co-owns and runs
a boatyard called Classic Works. To see more
photos of Partridge 1885 check the Website:
www.classicworks.fr
How Did You Find Partridge?
“At the time I was 19 and working, earning
my apprenticeship in Fairey Marine shipyard
in Cowes in England. I was beginning to realize
that I wanted to switch from fiberglass and steel
to wood. My boss, Alan Realey was fantastic and
asked the company to pay for me to study wooden
boat building for a year. Then a letter arrived from
Uncle Peter.... It began simply, “I wonder, would
you be interested in my proposition to buy an old
boat and restore her...” Alex jumped at the chance
and headed straight to the east coast of England
because “the rivers are known to be graveyards for
Oil Painting
An oil painting of Partridge by English painter Rowena
Wright commissioned by Uncle Peter, which he enjoys
at home when he is not sailing the real thing
43
CLASSIC YACHTS
It took several years just to dry her out completely. Over the next 18 years she was painstakingly and exquisitely restored by Laird, whose
passion combined with, by this stage, experienced
craftsmanship restored her to her original glory
including her mast, rigging, and bronze details
as well as her straight stem, which always distinguishes her from the rest of the old fleet on the
classic yachting circuit.
How Did You and Partridge End Up
in the South of France?
Partridge has distinguished herself on the classical regatta circuit. Last year she raced in Imperia
(Italy) for the Vele d’Epoca, in St Tropez for the
Voiles de Saint.
Features
There is no interior, which is very convenient for racing as the crew can lay the foresails on the
cabin sole in stops and hoist them through the fore hatch when needed. The hull planking, the keelson, and the bilge stringer are all original, but the deck and the rig were renewed when the restoration was undertaken. On the hull planking the original adze marks of the shipwrights who built her
in 1884 are visible. Winches were only invented a few years after she was built, so she has none
and manpower is required. To sail her, a minimum crew of 7 is needed and for racing she needs 15.
Her racing success is thanks to her architect John Beavor-Webb, who built the double challenger
yachts, Genesta and Galatea, for the America’s Cup at the same time as Partridge, who inherited
many of their design features including their speed. Her CIM rating AMP is 178.
Classic Works
Classic Works specializes in classic yacht restoration. It is situated in the Chantier Naval in La Ciotat
between Toulon and Marseille in the south of France. The immense shipyard complex was closed
down just over 15 years ago and is being slowly reborn as a center of classic yacht restoration,
super yacht maintenance, and other yachting activities. With a sophisticated infrastructure already in
place, including cranes with a lifting capacity of
1000 tons, its plentiful space and excellent facilities, the Chantier Naval of La Ciotat is an ideal
location for yacht restoration and construction.
Yachts also visit the Chantier for refits and
repairs. Well-known names like Adix, Velsheda,
Ranger and Mirabella V are just a few examples.
Classic Works Chantier Naval
www.classicworks.fr
“By the time she was restored, Uncle Peter had
moved to Monaco and we realized that all the major
classic races take place on the Riviera. At about the
same time, Butch Dalrymple-Smith, whom I met
racing on Partridge, asked me to join him in the
south of France on a restoration project. We now
co-own Classic Works in La Ciotat where Partridge is
moored. We restore classic yachts with authenticity
and employ the best craftsmen. It’s a dream come
true and all thanks to Partridge.” Classic Work’s
excellent reputation has meant that the company
has grown – they now employ 50 people – and curiously, according to Laird, a new trend is emerging.
“The world is fast running out of the original classics to restore and so clients are now
searching the museums or the archives for old
yacht designs and asking us to replicate them
with all the authentic details. However, one possible advantage of starting from scratch is that
you can incorporate all the modern technologies
and comfortable luxuries that a client desires.
Personally, I am a bit of a purist and prefer to stick
to the original designs throughout, although nowadays an engine is pretty much essential. That was
the beauty of Partridge – renovating her was mine
and Peter’s passion and I was able to indulge in all
the authentic details without outside interference
from a less sensitive captain or owner”
Is Partridge Available for Charter?
“Partridge is only chartered for racing as she is not
a cruising vessel. She accommodates six people
but needs a crew of 15 to race her.”
Not So High Maintenance Lady
Partridge is now for sale. Her asking price:
800,000 euro. A refit was completed last May, at
a cost of 50,000 euro, so she is looking extremely
good for her years. Her performance at the classic
yacht regattas defy her age. The cost to create an
authentic-looking interior would cost approximately 100,000 euro.
You can see Partridge racing this summer on
the Mediterranean. Perhaps you may even be
tempted to acquire her and become the owner of
one of the most famous classic yachts. Or maybe
you prefer a beautiful replica. Either way, Laird is
your man. Thanks to Uncle Peter! YVC .
pfarquharson@publiazur.com
44
YACHTS
PATAGONIA
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26/10/06 10:55:25
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VISIT THE CYBA WEBSITE AT: http://www.cyba.net/
Your first - and most important - step in planning your charter vacation is choosing a good broker to help you. Always
look for the CYBA logo, which identifies those brokers who are active members of the professional Charter Yacht Brokers
Association. CYBA members must meet extensive requirements in order to qualify for membership in this prestigious organization. They must
subscribe to CYBA’s strict Code of Ethics, and they must inspect yachts and interview crews regularly in order to maintain their membership status.
45
THE MED
Elegant
Oldies
Classic yachts
have a new
rendezvous in
Italy to start the
Med season
The classic yacht season is officially open! What a thrill awaits classic yacht fanatics like
me. The real big news is, in addition to the fabulous annual classic races taking place along
the French and Italian Rivieras such as Monaco, Marseille, and Saint Tropez, a new event
in Imperia, Italy, has been created to take place at the end of April.
WRITTEN BY
PAULA FARQUHARSON
About the Writer
Paula Farquharson is an editor of The Riviera Times newspaper. Originally from Ireland, she worked in New York
and is now based in Nice, France, where she learned to
sail.
46
I
t is the ideal occasion to see the billowing
straight-line sails of these classics strut their
stuff after their winter hibernation.
The historical beauties are as popular as ever
and becoming increasingly so, as this new classic
yacht meeting bears witness. The elegant oldies
will make their season’s debut in Imperia, which
is best known as the host port of the biannual
Vele d’Epoca race week, which welcomes more
than 100 traditional participating yachts; the
next race week takes place September 2008.
The new Imperia classic meeting is hosted by
Assonautica Imperia. Also involved is Imperia’s
sister city, Newport, Rhode Island, in the U.S.
– another capital for the congregation of international classic yachts. As well as drawing yachts
built in the Spirit of Tradition, the meeting will
also welcome charter brokers and classic yacht
suppliers, so Imperia is a must visit for those
wishing to charter in Europe.
Genoa Overlap
With such excellent port facilities, it made
sense for the town of Imperia to launch a brand
new event and, timing-wise, they have made
a good choice too. It is strategically timed to
coincide with the annual Genoa Charter Show
(April 30–May 4, 2007) so that visitors to their big
neighbor can drop by – courtesy of a complimentary shuttle service (bus) between the two ports.
Imperia’s port will even help ease the pressure
of over demand for dock space in Genoa’s Mole
Vecchio port, which will welcome superyachts
from around the world to its 19th edition this
year.
SS Delphine Shows Up
Attending the Imperia Classic Meeting will
be yachts moored in the Mediterranean Sea, the
United Kingdom, as well as the United States.
The big star and flagship of the event will be the
1st Imperia ClassicYacht Meeting (27th April- 1st May 2007): Meeting Program
Friday, April 27
8:30 a.m. Hospitality Desk opens
10:00 a.m. Captains briefing
10:30 a.m. Exhibition opens for visitors
12:30 p.m. Lunch for brokers
5:30 p.m. Official opening ceremony with Brass Band CRI Florence
Welcome cocktail party for invited guests/crews/owners
Concert of the Brass Band of the Italian Red Cross
8:00 p.m. Dinner for invited guests
8:30 p.m. Evening entertainment at the arena
Racing
Old sailing boat in the Vele d’Epoca CUP,
Imperia, Italy
SS Delphine, with an impressive length of 257
feet (78.65 meters), making her the biggest “true
classic” superyacht afloat.
She was built in 1921 and still has her original and unique quadruple-expansion steam
engines designed by the first owner, Horace
Dodge of American automobile fame; they are
in perfect working condition today! She can be
chartered for up to 26 guests overnight or up
to 160 day passengers for a wedding or other
special event. Current owners spent six years
on essential restoration work and, when the job
was completed, the ship was re-christened in
September 2003, by H.S.H. Princess Stephanie
of Monaco. In 2004 she received the annual
Showboats award for best refit. Also participating in the event is the Van Bent-built Life. This
interesting yacht built in the ’50s is chartered
every year by Italian actress Sophia Loren for the
Cannes Film Festival.
The fairytale Principality of Monaco where
Princess Stephanie resides with the Prince’s family is mere nautical miles away from Imperia and
Genoa, so make sure you mark Monaco on your
sailing itinerary if attending the two boat events.
The Monaco Formula One Grand Prix, which
takes place May 24–27, may entice you to linger
in the Med after the Italian shows.
PHOTO: WALTER GRANER
Saturday, April 28
8:30 a.m. Hospitality desk opens
11:30 a.m. Arrival of SS Delphine, welcome with Brass Band
5:00 p.m. Chefs competition “Concorso dello Chef” opens
5:30 p.m. Presentation of the book ‘Atlante degli habitat marini della Liguria’
7:30 p.m. Dinner with guests and members of the band Blue Dolls
8:45 p.m. The Blue Dolls from Turin in concert
Sunday, April 29
9:30 a.m. A mass service celebrated at
the pier
11:00 a.m. Sailing with local friends around
Imperia ports
5:30 p.m. Jazz at the pier
8:45 p.m. Concert
Monday, April 30
2:00 p.m. A round of golf at the Castellaro
Golf Course with yacht owners and
brokers
5:30 p.m. BBQ with local fishermen at the
pier
8:30 p.m. Entertainment at the arena with DJ
Tommaso
Tuesday, May 1
2:30 p.m. “Concorso di Eleganza”
4:30 p.m. Official closing ceremony with
presentation of trophies
(most elegant yacht, best sailing
vessel, etc.) and farewell cocktails
8:00 p.m. End of show crew party with live
entertainment
Assonautica Provinciale di Imperia
assonautica.im@uno.it
info@imperiaclassicyachts.com
Imperia Tourist Office
infoimperia@rivieradeifiori.org
47
THE MED
Gastronomic delights
An event in Italy would be lost without a mention of food. A special chef’s competition will take place
during the Imperia Classic Yacht Meeting. Ligurian specialties preserve the reputation Italy has for
exquisite gastronomic cucina and sweet dolce. The secret lies in simple ingredients producing delicate
results. Best known for its extra virgin olive oil, from sweet to bitter, it is derived from local olive groves
and forms the basis for most dishes and the source of the healthy Mediterranean diet.
Whether dining in a gourmet restaurant under a pergola or an informal trattoria savor appetizing fresh
pasta dishes, stuffed ravioli, pesto, meaty boar and rabbit dishes (during hunting season) with polenta
as well as simpler fare such as a cundiun salad or a pan e pumàta (bread dampened with olive oil and
spread with basil leaves and tomatoes), which are no less tasty. There is a choice of fragrant local
wines, Rossese, Poggia, Vermentiono and Ormeasco to perfectly accompany each delicacy. While gastronomic fare is king the world renowned pizza is ubiquitous and most towns have their own specialty.
Italian Cuisine
Cloves of garlic and sprig of
fresh thyme soaked in virgin
olive oil, ready for culinary
preparation.
Pretty Imperia
The picturesque ports of Oneglia and Porto
Maurizio in Imperia provide the perfect setting
for the classic yacht meeting. Surrounded by local
cafes, shops, and restaurants, you are sure to get
a taste of the local food and lifestyle. Imperia was
once the capital of Liguria and its streets are littered with evidence of its architectural and artistic
heritage. It is also home to some beautiful gardens
in which citrus trees and rare botanical species
thrive. Not far from the port are the Città di Rosario
gardens on the grounds of a former convent.
If you decide to leave your yacht and stay over
in town, the Hotel Rossini Al Teatro is the natural
choice for luxury and style. The futuristic, avantgarde design of this four-star hotel ensures it
stands apart and rivals architectural ghosts of the
old theatre, whose former site it stands upon. You
can enjoy cocktails in the lounge, which is fitted
with contemporary décor and designer armchairs
and sofas, or relax in the floor-to-ceiling glass
scenic tower with a panoramic view of the town.
Doubles/suites 140-250€. www.hotel-rossini.it
where he was born in Borga Lanaioli beside
the medieval city gate, Porta Soprana. By night
you will be guided by La Laterna, the symbol
of Genoa and the yellow light that has directed
seamen since 1543. This commercial port is huge
and the best way to see it is to go up the Bigo for
an incredible panoramic view. In fact, Genoa has
three ports and it is Marina Porto Antico where
lots of events and parties will take place during
the charter show.
I can’t think of any reason to miss these spectacular events! See you there! YVC
PHOTO: JSERGIO BRUNETTI
“I can’t think of
any reason to
miss these
spectacular
events!
See you there!
PHOTO: JURIAH MOSIN
At the markets pick up quality, regional specialties; sun dried tomatoes, wine, olives, olive oil, focaccia
bread, grissini (thin bread sticks), bruzzo and parmesan cheese, canestrelli (biscuits), stockfish and torta
verde – a pie filled with tasty green vegetables and rice mixed with olive oil. Liguria is the most wooded
area in Italy so for a change of scenery from the water you can stroll through scenic and peacefully
quiet countryside among olive groves and vineyards, where connoisseurs can taste the exceptional vintages and DOC (Controlled Denomination of Origin) wines.
Genoa Myba Charter Show
Whale Spotting
Between Imperia and Genoa you may
spot some whales as the International Whale
Sanctuary covers the huge area from San Remo to
Tuscany in the Mediterranean Sea. Dolphins are
guaranteed – no surprise as the Med is inhabited
by one of the highest concentrations of whales
and dolphins, which are protected by RIMMO, a
reserve created by Prince Rainier III of Monaco
and actress Brigitte Bardot.
Genoa, known as the door of the Mediterranean,
can claim the famous Christopher Columbus
as its son. He set sail from its port to discover
America. You can visit the house and museum
48
From 30th April to 4th May, 2007 Genoa
hosts the 19th edition of this popular event.
This is one of the most important international
exhibitions dedicated to superyachts and luxury recreational sailing. You are guaranteed to
meet the best brokers and most prestigious
charter agencies from all around the world.
The Myba Show is the ideal showcase for the
most beautiful yachts and the most exclusive
offers. The exhibition is promoted by the
Mediterranean Yacht Brokers Association
www.mybashow.com
49
SHOW REPORT
Messerschmitt KR-200
A descendant of a legendary airplane manufacturer that shifted to automobiles after World War
II. This quirky, three-wheeled convertible sold
for $27,500. The unique group of collector cars
in Palm Beach also included three Amphicars,
headlined by a 1968 Amphicar 770 convertible
that sold for $82,500!
Barrett-Jackson
Palm Beach Auction
About Barrett-Jackson
Established in 1971, the Barrett-Jackson
Auction Company produces the most influential and significant automotive lifestyle
events in the world. The organization is the
premier provider of products and services for
collector car owners, automotive enthusiasts
and astute collectors worldwide. The BarrettJackson Auction Company has been generating headlines, setting records and serving
as the barometer for trends in the automotive industry for 35 years. What began as a
Scottsdale, Ariz., collector car auction, has
evolved into the “World’s Greatest Collector
Car Events” in Scottsdale and Palm Beach.
www.barrett-jackson.com
50
A review of the
record-breaking Event
Collector cars took center stage as the Barrett-Jackson Auction Company hosted the ultimate beach bash on the shores of West Palm Beach, Florida, from March 28-April 1, 2007.
Record crowds flooded the South Florida Expo center to see everything from vintage Big
Block Corvettes and Shelbys to eclectic vehicles like Messerschmitts and Amphicars being
auctioned at no reserve. SPEED cameras roamed the site to capture the action, which
included eight hours of live coverage on Saturday.
T
he annual Palm Beach extravaganza continued its reputation of offering the world’s
top collector cars and experiences for the
entire family. The event featured over 100 lifestyle vendors and sponsors showcasing a diverse
group of products. Attendants enjoyed auto
test drives, exclusive tours of jet fuselages and
dazzling diamonds from West Palm’s top jewelers. A gala was held to kick-off the event for
bidders and VIPs that benefited the National
Center for Missing and Exploited Children and
the Darrell Gywnn Foundation, the auction’s
charitable beneficiaries. Early estimates indicate
that approximately $500,000 was raised for these
worthy causes.
Barrett-Jackson’s ability to create the most
unique automotive lifestyle event in the world
generated record attendance numbers in 2007.
Nearly 65,000 people poured through the gates
during the five day event, thanks to the diversity
of cars and the many attractions away from the
main stage. The number of new bidders was also
up, showing Barrett-Jackson’s ability to attract
new players to the thriving hobby.
“It’s great to see so many new faces join longtime collectors to soak up the excitement at this
year’s Palm Beach event,” said Steve Davis, president of Barrett-Jackson. “There were so many
more people the first day that we had to bring
in additional stadium style seating to accommodate the crowds.”
Helping increase the number of new bidders was the diverse group of vehicles available
in the Palm Beach lineup. Early on, much of
the bidding centered on a swarm of entry level
vehicles that were mixed among the superb classics, sports cars, hot rods and rare muscle cars.
“This year, we made a decision to offer more
entry level and midrange collector cars, which
attracted our biggest crowds and created some
exciting bidding,” said Craig Jackson, CEO of the
Barrett-Jackson Auction Co. “The prices seemed
in line with the quality of vehicles on the docket.
Rare, documented, superb cars brought high
bids while less exotic vehicles attracted prices in
line with their provenance, condition and rarity.
And when compared to similar grade vehicles
sold last year, prices are definitely in line.”
The unique group of collector cars in Palm
Beach included three Amphicars, headlined
by a 1968 Amphicar 770 convertible that sold
for $82,500 on the opening day of the auction.
Joining the Amphicar was a Messerschmitt KR200, a descendant of a legendary airplane manufacturer that shifted to automobiles after World
War II. The quirky, three-wheeled convertible
sold for $27,500.
The auction block heated up on Saturday
night when the first ever Foose Coupe available
to the public through Unique Performance was
sold, fetching $330,000. Created by renowned
designer Chip Foose, the mid-engined beast is
powered by a Mopar Hemi V8 and resembles
Foose’s dream combination of a hot rod, sports
car and muscle car. The winning bidder will join
Chip for a design session to customize the interior of the car, choose paint colors and powertrain.
He will stay in luxury accommodations near
the Gaffoglio Family Metalcrafter’s automotive
facility in Orange County, California, and drive a
Foose Stallion Mustang during his trip.
Also making a special presentation were
Carroll Shelby and Mark Fields, who unveiled
the new Ford Shelby GT-H “Rent-A-Racer” from
Ford Motor Company, Shelby Automobiles and
The Hertz Corporation. The convertible was
hidden prior to the unveiling and uncovered live
on SPEED and before a raucous crowd in South
Florida. The first of approximately 500 Shelbymodified Ford Mustang GT-H convertibles, the
car fetched $250,000 and proceeds of the sale
benefited charity; a matching Fender guitar was
included with the Shelby.
“It’s an honor that automotive icons like
Carroll Shelby and Chip Foose chose to unveil
their newest creations at a Barrett-Jackson
event,” noted Jackson. “Their appearances really
energized the crowd and set the tone for the
entire event.”
Among the tens of thousands of enthusiasts
were a large number of families that made the
trip to South Florida to fulfill their automotive
passions, some spanning multiple generations.
“One of the most fascinating trends we
noticed this year was the amazing number of
families who are enjoying this hobby together
with much of their lives revolving around collector car activities,” explained Davis.
For the Horton family from Waterford,
Michigan, the event has helped fuse a special
relationship between three generations. After
attending two Scottsdale auctions and purchasing seven Barrett-Jackson cars in January,
Laurence “Grumpy” Horton decided to bring
his son, Scott, and grandson, Devon, to the
2007 Palm Beach event, where they bought four
vehicles.
“We bought the Bel Air to match body lines
and lights of our 1956 Chevy Nomad,” said nineyear-old Devon, who already has encyclopedic
knowledge of classic cars. “These cars are definitely the best in our collection.”
The highlight of young Devon’s week was when
Craig Jackson handed him a Barrett-Jackson 35th
Anniversary coffee table book signed by Carroll
Shelby, the executive team at Barrett-Jackson
and all of the auctioneers including the famous
auctioneer duo, “Spanky & Amy”.
In closing, Craig Jackson said, “With another
wildly successful event in the books, we can’t wait
to come back to Palm Beach and entertain these
West Coast enthusiasts in 2008.” YVC
“It’s great to see
so many new
faces join longtime collectors
to soak up the
excitement at
this year’s Palm
Beach event”
Craig Jackson, Darrell Gwynn, and Chip Foose
Three Generations
For the Horton family from Waterford, Michigan, the
event has helped fuse a special relationship between
three generations. After attending two Scottsdale auctions and purchasing seven Barrett-Jackson cars in
January, Laurence “Grumpy” Horton decided to bring
his son, Scott, and grandson, Devon, to the 2007 Palm
Beach event, where they bought four vehicles.
51
RESORTS
New Spa & Spa
Suite Concept
Fern Tree Spa at
Half Moon Debuting
Summer 07
Plans are underway for Half Moon, the luxury resort located in the exclusive Rose Hall
enclave in Jamaica, to debut an expansive
new spa facility and spa suites this Summer
2007.
52
T
he US $4 million dollar project, which is
currently underway, will see the conversion of the resorts signature villa, Fern Tree
House, into a 68,000 square foot sanctuary for the
mind and body.
Drawing on Jamaica’s lush landscape and centuries-old healing traditions as inspiration, the
Fern Tree Spa will meld modern spa techniques
with Jamaica’s ancient healing remedies of native
herbs, fruits and botanicals.
Having at its foundation a philosophy of wellness, Fern Tree Spa will introduce clients to a
Spa Elder versed in the art of holistic healing, to
guide clients through the four phases of wellness:
addressing the individual, the body, the mind and
the spirit. Incorporating the natural herbs and
botanicals found in Jamaica as a base, the Spa
Elder will create a treatment menu that reflects
both traditional remedies and present day spa
techniques. Clients can also benefit from the
Spa Elders expertise with private consultations
to develop personalized treatments or a regimen
of treatments and programs that follow a path to
wellness.
Borrowing from Fern Tree Houses original
colonial design of hardwood floors, grand entryways and opulent furnishings, treatment rooms
will be set amidst lush gardens allowing guests
the option of having their room enclosed or open
to their own private garden terrace. Couples can
reserve the plantation-styled couples massage
room, bedecked with wooden millwork, pitched
ceilings and private patio with dipping pool.
Families, wedding parties and groups will enjoy
the spa cottage, offering separate living room and
spa treatment room affording the group quality
bonding time and private tranquility. The Fern
Tree Spa complex will also house a relaxation
lounge, yoga pavilion, hydrotherapy swimming
pool, sculpture garden and several water features.
This extensive development will also include
the creation of six signature beachfront spa suites
adjacent to the spa. The suites will provide all the
comforts found in a traditional hotel suite along
with added features and services of a personal
spa. Each spa suite will feature an expansive bedroom with sitting area, an oversized bathroom,
private patio overlooking the Caribbean Sea with
soaking tub, shower and a personal studio that
can be used for private en-suite treatments, personal fitness or yoga. Special features of the spa
suite will include special an organic spa refreshment bar and spa bath bar.
“The creation of this new world class spa has
spent many years in development; creating the
concept, doing research on what spa-goers want
for their spa experience. I am confident that when
finished the Fern Tree Spa will be one of Jamaica’s
best spas,” said Richard Whitfield, Half Moon’s
managing director.
The Fern Tree Spa is the third in a series of
major refurbishing projects to be undertaken by
Half Moon in the resorts five-year master plan
project. Other upgrades included the rebuilding
of the resorts beachfront Hibiscus Suites, the
renovation of the 41-year old Robert Trent Jones
Sr. designed golf course, refurbishing the Oleander
deluxe suites, adding a new children’s play area
and upgrading two of the resort’s specialty restaurants. YVC
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CRUISING CIGAR MAN
Those Fabulous
Figurados!
A look at non-parejo
(or non-straight-sided)
cigar shapes
You’re browsing through your favorite cigar catalog or Website and words like
“Pyramid,” “Belicoso,” “Torpedo,” and “Perfecto” keep jumping out at you.
Originating in Cuba, these are traditional names for a variety of non-parejo
(or non-straight-sided) cigar shapes referred to as “figurados.” Since some
shapes are similar in appearance, the question that arises is: What’s the
WRITTEN BY GARY KORB
difference between a Torpedo, a Belicoso, and a Pyramid, or the difference
between a Perfecto, a Double Perfecto, and a Diademas? More important,
what’s the difference in how they smoke?
A
s with any premium cigar, the quality of the tobaccos is what really matters,
and since many figurados often tend to be wider in ring gauge, they also tend
to be richer in flavor. Moreover, by design, the atypical shapes of these cigars
are intended to offer a more complex and flavorful smoke. For example, the tapered
head on the Belicoso, Torpedo, and Pyramid concentrates the smoke as it passes
through the head’s narrow pathway.
Figurados are generally higher in price. One reason is the extra tobacco used in the
cigar. But it has more to do with the skill required to roll them properly, which is why
figurados are only assigned to the factory’s most experienced torcedores, or rollers.
To help give you a better understanding of these fabulous cigars, the opposite page
shows you how they are defined.
54
Belicoso
A cigar distinguished by a refined, pointed head, and generally 6 to 61⁄2 inches in length. I love
this nugget from Richard Carleton Hacker’s The Ultimate Cigar Book, in which he writes: “One of the
easiest cigars to clip for smoking, even while under the influence of potent liquors.” A good example
of this shape is the Padron Serie 1926 No.2. A Belicoso Jr. has the same shape, only shorter, normally
ranging 41⁄2 to 51⁄2 inches. A good example of this shape is the Romeo y Julieta Petit Numero Dos.
Torpedo
Named primarily for its appearance, this shape is tapered at the head like the Belicoso, but it’s
not usually as long or sharp. The body is thicker in the middle (traditionally bulged) with a flat foot.
Normally about 6 to 61⁄2 inches in length, it is also one of the most difficult shapes to make. One of the
finest examples of this shape is the classic Montecristo No.2.
Pyramid
Most often rolled with a pointed head like a Belicoso, the Pyramid (or Piramide) may also be rolled
with a rounded head. Generally 6 to 7 inches in length, Pyramids have a narrow head that flares out to
a wide-ringed foot. The idea behind this cigar is to offer the largest possible burn area while keeping
the head of the cigar comfortable in the mouth. Fine examples of this shape are the Davidoff Special
Series Special T and the Partagas Black Label Piramide
Perfectos
Distinguished by a unique nipple-shaped foot, most perfectos are usually straight-sided and vary
in length from 4 to 9 inches. In some instances, the head is slightly tapered. Its name comes from the
design of the foot. You light the nipple and the tobacco should burn evenly outward to the edge of the
cigar’s foot, resulting in a “perfect” light. Perhaps the finest examples of this shape are the cigars of the
Arturo Fuente Hemingway Series.
Double Perfectos
They are tapered at both ends, often with the foot partially open instead of a nipple, although the
Zino Platinum Scepter Chubby has a nipple-shaped foot. The bulge in the middle (where the most
tobacco is) gives the cigar more flavor, depth, and complexity. Among the best examples of this shape
are in the Aurora Preferidos selection.
Diademas
Then there’s the Diademas, an elegant variation of the Double Perfecto. Usually long in length, the
primary difference is that the cigar flares out at about the bottom third of the cigar, then tapers back in
at the foot. The Oliva Serie S cigars offer some beautiful examples of this shape, and last year Davidoff
introduced the Limited Edition 100th Anniversary Diademas Finas.
Cool and Unusual
CIGAR PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT INGRAM
If you have a flair for the unusual, you can find figurados in many other shapes, and in some cases,
pretty extreme looking at that. For example, the Drew Estate Natural Egg looks like a small snake that
just devoured a hamster, and the La Flor Dominicana Chisel has a head that looks like...well...a chisel!
Perhaps the newest addition to the “cool and unusual” are the “Wafe” cigars offered in the Java by Drew
Estate and ACID cigar series. It’s a short cigar that’s been pressed so flat it looks like a sugar wafer.
Surprisingly, this cigar is very comfortable in the mouth.
For the ultimate in the “cool and unusual” department, check out the CAO “Artistry of Champions”
sampler that features three stunning double-perfectos wrapped in different-colored leaves, and two
whimsical, trumpet-shaped cigars.
Remember, just because the cigar is labeled a particular shape doesn’t mean it is. Like many other
shapes, each frontmark is named at the discretion of the manufacturer. Some might label a Belicoso a
“Torpedo,” or a Torpedo a “Pyramid,” or a Diademas a “Perfecto,” and so on. A good rule of thumb is to
go by the measurements that appeal most to your personal tastes, but trying different figurados is one
of the more fascinating ways to discover some great cigars. YVC
About the Writer
Gary Korb is the chief copywriter and resident cigar guru at Famous Smoke Shop (www.FamousSmoke.com) in
Easton, PA. He has been enjoying the wonderful world of cigars for over 25 years.
gkorb@famous-smoke.com
55
PRIVATE JET CHARTERS
Montego Bay
celebrates official opening
IAM Jet Centre
International Aircraft Management (IAM)
officially opened the new IAM Jet Centre
– Montego Bay, located at Sangster
International Airport. Operations at the new
corporate and private terminal commenced
on December 15, 2006.
56
T
he official ribbon cutting ceremony was presided over by Jamaican Minister of Housing,
Transport, Water and Works, Hon. Robert
Pickersgill, as well as Mayor Noel Donaldson,
Custos Clarence Nelson, IAM Managing Director
Paul Worrell and MBJ Airports Limited CEO, Jorge
Sales.
During his speech to the VIP’s in attendance,
Minister Pickersgill said “It is a pleasure to officially open such a distinct facility promoting Jamaica,
Montego Bay as well as our other popular tourist
areas. The opening is welcome indeed and shows
an expression of confidence in Jamaica”. Minister
Pickersgill continued “I unhesitatingly congratulate all that have been involved in bringing this
high end, first class facility to fruition in time for
Cricket World Cup”.
The elegant new facility offers 4,500 square
feet of well appointed features designed to meet
the needs of discerning passengers and their flight
crew, including dedicated in-house Customs and
Immigration processing, state of the art security, first class lounge accommodations, a private
meeting room, high speed internet service and
covered discreet access to ground transportation.
Mayor Donaldson complemented the new
IAM Jet Centre – Montego Bay. “It is a most welcome addition to the landscape of Montego Bay
and the Parish of St James, to offer the best possible facility for those arriving on private and
corporate aircraft”.
The new Jet Centre is located at the East end of
Sangster International Airport and construction
was carried out in seven months. The facility has
already welcomed numerous local and international celebrities.
Jorge Sales, Chief Executive Officer of MBJ
Airports Limited welcomed the new VIP centre
by saying “this is another important milestone
for Sangster International Airport, the new private and corporate terminal will compliment the
overall high end visitor experience within the
Jamaican tourism product. In addition, the exclusive terminal enhances the scope of services that
we offer to the global aviation market. The new jet
centre will be especially pleasing for Cricket World
Cup teams and fans that arrive on private and
corporate aircraft; we can assure our VIP guests of
a warm Jamaican welcome”.
“One of the features of the IAM Jet Centre
– Montego Bay is a new dedicated entrance leading directly to the terminal” commented Paul
Worrell of IAM. “This allows our traveling guests to
reach our facility in a direct and discreet manner.
We have been encouraged by the initial response
and are enjoying working closely with the local
tourism and hotel/villa community. As a team,
we are able to offer premium visitors an elegant
Jamaican experience that starts and ends literally
at the steps of the aircraft”.
The jet centre is designed to have a distinct
Jamaican sense of place, yet exceed international
comfort and service standards. Tourism stakeholders in Montego Bay, Negril and Ocho Rios
have been excited about the introduction of this
facility as it will generate high-end business for the
country. YVC
For more information contact David
Solloway at dsolloway@mbjairport.com or,
aviation@iamjetcntre.com. We invite you to visit
www.iamjetcentre.com
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57
DISCOVERY CHARTER
Sea Slugs:
Hidden Talents
Breaking all the rules on the
wild plant-animal frontier
BY TONY KARACSONYI
58
Some sea slugs run on solar power, others cast off their body parts, and still others steal
firearms from other animals, reusing them. They can even produce sulphuric acid! Marine
scientists are discovering that some sea slugs use solar power, breaking all the rules of the
animal world as they’re switching from being an animal to a plant, soaking up sunlight to
produce a sugary snack.
T
his remarkable group of plant-like
animals, the sacoglossan sea slugs,
looks more like terrestrial butterflies
than slugs, displaying lovely green
wings as they slide gracefully across
the seafloor. Their graceful appearance masks their darker nature: they’re thieves,
stealing chloroplasts and plastids from their seaweed lunches.
These sea slugs use the stolen chloroplasts as
a back-up energy supply when food is running
short, like using solar energy panels to supplement your hot water system at home.
There’s even one species of sea slug that has
been established as an anti-cancer agent and is
under clinical trials in the U.S. These amazing
shell-less mollusks, some living on the plant/animal frontier, may even hold a cure for cancer.
Sea slugs are a specialized group of snails and
are classified as animals. Some are herbivores,
while others are carnivores, often eating only a
very specialized group of animals.
“There are two fascinating groups of sea
slugs, called ‘solar powered,’ as they have
become very plant-like in their behavior. Sea
slugs can only behave like plants by either farming small plants in their bodies – as with nudibranchs harboring zooxanthellae, or by keeping
the plastids, which are the photosynthesising
factories in plant cells alive – as with the sacoglassans. These two groups of solar-powered sea
slugs have evolved ways of using the ability of
plants to convert the sun’s energy into sugars
and other nutrients,” explains Dr. Bill Rudman,
of the Australian Museum.
“The herbivorous sacoglossan sea slugs suck
the cell contents from the seaweeds they feed on.
From this cell sap, they keep alive and functioning the plastids – those parts of the plant cell that
convert the sun’s energy into sugars. This conversion of the sun’s light energy into food for the
plant is called photosynthesis.”
In green plants the plastids are green and
are called chloroplasts. Most sacoglossans are
coloured by the plant pigments they keep in their
bodies.
Among the nudibranchs, which are all carnivorous, a number of different families have
evolved ways of keeping microscopic singlecelled plants alive in their bodies. These singlecelled plants are called zooxanthellae. Although
they have free living relatives in the ocean’s
plankton, they have adapted to living in the tissues of the sea slugs.
Some nudibranch species have evolved
branches in their gut and contain plastids, the
photosynthesising “factories” from the algae,
which are alive and operating. In many cases
the plastids are chloroplasts but “Sacoglossans,
which feed on red and brown algae, are also
known to keep the plastids from these algae
alive,” says Bill.
“In the nudibranchs, many have evolved similar ways of keeping whole single-celled plants
– zooxanthellae – alive in their bodies. Mostly
zooxanthellae are obtained from their food, often
cnidarians that already have symbiotic zooxanthellae in their bodies,” he added.
Using stolen chloroplasts, sea slugs have
found a way to bridge the gap between plants
and animals by using the chloroplasts to produce
up to a quarter of their food from photosynthesis.
Sea slugs have found a way to break the rules
of biology and use stolen chloroplasts to live as
part-time plants.
The pilfered chloroplasts are called kleptoplasts and sea slugs are able to maintain the
kleptoplasts in full working condition in their
gut cells. There’s no need for the sea slug to go
searching for food; it can simply lay in the sun,
letting the enslaved kleptoplasts do all the hard
work.
So far, sea slugs are the only multicellular
animals known to photosynthesis using stolen
chloroplasts. This process, called kleptoplasty,
differs from the symbiosis that takes place in
other marine invertebrates; as kleptoplasty is no
partnership, the sea slugs have found a way to
enslave the seaweed’s chloroplasts after destroying and digesting the rest of the plant.
Some nudibranchs are brightly colored as a
warning to predators that they taste bad, called
“aposematic,” and are believed to sequester toxins from the foods they eat, to use in turn for
defense. These defense chemicals are called allomones.
There still hasn’t been much experimental
work done on aposematism since the pioneering
work of a researcher named “Crossland,” who 90
years ago was throwing bits of chromodorids,
a kind of nudibranch, off his houseboat in the
Sudanese Red Sea to hungry fishes.
59
DISCOVERY CHARTER
The Science of Slugs: Slugs and Drugs
With the desire to discover safe and effective drugs against a wide
range of diseases, scientists are now forced to search for new sources
of potential pharmaceutical agents. Many researchers have turned
toward the sea, as the ocean harbors more biological diversity and a
greater diversity of chemical structures than on land.
Dr. Kirsten Benkendorff, a postdoctoral research fellow and coordinator of the “Marine Bioprospecting Initiative” at the University of
Wollongong, Australia, has in recent years, worked on shelled species
of sea slugs; turbo snails, muricids, and mussels.
“This is partly related to the specific hypotheses that I’m testing
about the molluskan immune system, but also because I think there
has been a general bias in natural products research away from shelled
species in favor of opisthobranchs, i.e., nudibranchs.”
The opisthobranchs have attracted so much attention from natural
products chemists because their soft bodies leave them vulnerable to
predation. Furthermore, they are often brightly colored, which is often a
warning in the animal kingdom of a poisonous or chemically defended
organism. These predictions have been justified, as many interesting
natural products have been isolated from opisthobranchs.
There are over 350 papers published on the secondary metabolites
of opisthobranchs. The toxic nature of some of these compounds
indicates that they could prove useful as leads for drug development,
but by far the majority of these molluskan natural products have never
been tested in any biological assays.
Only about 250 of the 6,000 described species of opisthobranchs
have been subject to chemical studies. Consequently, the potential
for discovering a new drug lead in these organisms remains very high
indeed. “Nevertheless, I believe that the natural rarity of many nudi-
60
branchs should prevent the collection of these species for chemical or
medicinal research,” says Kirsten.
The chemicals that have evolved to protect sea slugs, nudibranchs,
and shelled mollusks are often highly biologically active and therefore
the compounds keenly sought. The toxins found in these animals provide leads for researchers on the chemical synthesis of drugs.
“An example is the large intertidal slug, Onchidella binneyi, that
lives in California. The milky white secretion it produces deters predators. This defensive secretion is basically a sugary mucus that also contains a compound called onchidal. Onchidal not only deters predators
but it irreversibly inhibits an enzyme involved in mammal neurotransmission. The specific biological activity of onchidial means that it could
have potential medical applications in the relaxation of overactive nervous systems. Several species of onchidella live in Australian waters”
says Kirsten.
“Another interesting sea slug is the seahare, Dolabrifera dolabrifera,
which grazes on algae in shallow waters. Dolabrifera dolabrifera is the
unstudied sister of another sea hare called Dolabella auricularia, which
contains the most potent anticancer compound known to mankind.
Anti-tumor activity has been reported in the egg mass.
The toxic nature of this cosmopolitan sea hare has been known for
over two millennia. Extracts from this species were used as early as
200 BC by the ancient Greeks to treat many diseases. After over 10
years of research, an anticancer agent has been isolated from this sea
hare and it’s now undergoing clinical trials in the U.S.
The glues used by nudibranchs and other mollusks to attach their
eggs to the seafloor have the ability to stick underwater, so medicine
might find a use for these glues for sealing wounds in internal organs”
A spectacular example of allomone use is
found in the nudibranch family chromodorididae – where all species concentrate chemicals
obtained from the sponges they feed on in special glands around the mantle edge. “In SouthEastern Australia many species have evolved a
red-spotted color pattern in a great geographical display of defensive mimicry,” says Dr. Bill
Rudman.
Sea slugs are essentially snails that have lost
their shells and have had to evolve ways to
protect their soft flesh from fish, crustaceans,
and other hungry marine animals. Some have
evolved glands in their skin that secrete noxious,
distasteful, and sometimes poisonous chemicals.
Even the most primitive sea slugs, such as
the bubble shells, produce a milky white acidic
mucous secretion from glands around the edge
of their mantles. In other opisthobranchs, i.e.,
nudibranchs, clusters of white glands called
repugnatorial glands can be seen as part of the
color pattern.
Many nudibranchs take distasteful chemicals
from the animals they feed on and store them in
the mantle glands. For example, a nudibranch
of the family chromodorid has glands around its
mantle edge containing chemicals taken from
sponges. In some areas, groups of chromodorids
have evolved similar color patterns so that fish
learn to leave them alone.
The aeolid cnidosac family of nudibranchs
eat cnidarians and are able to retain some of the
stinging cells called nematocysts. They do this in
a way so that they are able to reuse them in their
own defense system. Cnidarians or coelenterates
include sea anemones, corals, hydroids and jellyfish, which have a wide range of nematocysts,
some of which have harpoon-shaped barbs for
spearing prey.
One of these nudibranchs has taken the
groups of barbed nematocysts aboard where they
can be triggered by a spiral thread, which uncoils
in the form of a long thread.
A few nudibranchs have the ability to cast
off their own body parts, called autotomy, as a
means of defense. A large tropical nudibranch
often casts the whole of its mantle skirt away
when handled.
Most aeolid nudibranchs defend themselves
with nematocysts from their cnidarian foods but
the phyllodesmium species feed on octo-corals
whose nematocysts are not very useful in terms
of defense.
As phyllodesmium is unable to use the soft
corals nematocysts for defense, they have developed an alternative strategy: at the tip of each
cerata, the cnidosac has been replaced by a large
gland that produces a sticky secretion.
When an animal attacks, the nudibranch is
able to drop off some of its cerata, which become
sticky from the secretion and wiggle around.
These discarded cerata distract predators long
enough for the nudibranch to get away.
Some nudibranchs live in symbiotic or commensal relationships with other marine animals.
These are names given to pairs or organisms
that live together in a close relationship. Many
sea slugs have developed such relationships and
dorid nudibranchs often have small crustacea
called copepods living on them. The copepods
are easily recognized as their two big egg sacs
look like a pair of large “tails.”
A spectacular example is the shrimp named
Periclimenes imperator, which is always found
living on large dorid nudibranchs, such as the
Spanish dancer.
It seems that sea slugs are not only breaking
all the rules, stealing chloroplasts and living on
the wild plant-animal frontier, but some such as
the seahare, Dollabella, holds the answer to curing cancer and other diseases. YVC
“It seems that
sea slugs are
not only breaking all the rules,
but some such
as the seahare,
Dollabella, holds
the answer to
curing cancer
and other
diseases”
Author’s note: My special thanks to Dr Bill Rudman
of the Australian Museum, Kirsten Benkendorff,
formerly of the University of Wollongong, Australia,
and Sue Williams, formerly of the University of
Western Australia, for their assistance with this
article.
About the Writer
Tony Karacsonyi is a professional marine photographer
who has been recognised globally for his exciting
images. Marine photography has taken Tony to some of
the world’s great places such as Papua New Guinea’s:
Siassi, Trobriand and D’Entrecasteaux Islands,Tonga,
Great Barrier Reef, Sabah, Ningaloo Reefs and
Australia’s Coral Sea. In 1998, he was awarded with the
prestigious Australian Geographic “Photographer of the
Information
Year”, for photography on giant cuttlefish and won sev-
eral international awards, including a ‘runner up’ position
in the “Wildlife Photographer of The Year” award in
London, during 1996, 1997, 1998.
tony@tonykphoto.com.au
61
TOYS
Porsche Cayman
2-Door Coupe
The Cayman is an all-new entry into the Porsche fleet, and the new kid’s already showing
he’s got the right stuff. It’s a zippy but not teeth-shattering sports car with a snorting, spirited 245-horsepower 2.7-liter flat-6 engine you’ll enjoy whipping around corners, through
winding forest roads, and over highways.
REVIEWED BY JOSH MAX
CaymanTechnical Specifications
62
Manual
Engine layout ......................Mid-engine
Displacement ......................2,687 cc
Horsepower ........................245 hp
@ rpm .................................6,500
Torque .................................201 lb.-ft.
@ rpm .................................4,600 - 6,000
Comp. ratio .........................11.3 : 1
Top Track Speed .................160 mph
0-60 mph .............................5.8 s
Tiptronic S
Mid-engine
2,687 cc
245 hp
6,500
201 lb.-ft.
4,600 - 6,000
11.3 : 1
157 mph
6.7 s
MSRP .................................$ 49,400.00
$ 52,610.00
O
ur test car was the base 5-speed model,
but the Cayman also comes in a 6speed manual or 5-speed Tiptronic, and
those’ll give you extra oomph. The engine’s
placed in the middle of the car, so you have both
front and rear hatches available – a boon to anyone who’s ever tried to plan an overnight trip for
two and can’t fit all their gear. The steering, even
for this entry-level Porsche, is pin-point perfect,
assisted by a variable-ratio rack and pinion
steering box. The faster you go, the tighter the
wheels seem to hug the road. At speed, surgical
maneuvers were a pleasure to execute, and the
car obeyed every command without hesitation. The Cayman delivers (almost) everything
its older and faster brother the Cayman S does
– and you can upgrade to the S with another
$9,500, which will buy you 50 more horsepower. But the base Cayman needs no apology
– indeed, it adds to Porsche’s fleet of exclusive,
well-made, sporty and fun vehicles.
A great addition
to Porsche’s fleet
of exclusive, wellmade, sporty and
fun vehicles
Interior
As with all Porsche coupes, you feel as though
the seats were tailor-made for you, and all controls
are within easy reach. There is a wee bit of handsomely disguised plastic here and there, but it
doesn’t detract. A base sound system is included;
you’ll want to install your own if you’re an audio
enthusiast. Black-faced instruments with gray
trim rings lend a touch of gravitas to the cockpit,
and a body-colored, mid-dash accent stripe and
a body-colored rear storage compartment cover
finish off the look.
Exterior
It’s a handsome peanut-shaped machine, and
your titanium badge on the hood makes you feel
like you’re handing the world your Porsche business card wherever you go. Body-colored front
and rear bumpers and front fog lights accent the
car’s sporty appearance. Great-looking 5-spoke,
17-in.-diameter alloy wheels, a distinctive center
exhaust tip, black brake calipers, and a black front
spoiler lip add up to a flavor of sporty fun. YVC
About the Reviwer
Josh Max is a freelance writer and automotive enthusiast.
jmaxroadtest@aol.com
MEXICO: BAJA CALIFORNIA
Letter from
Loreto
Surviving the ranchera street
beat in paradise can be hell
Traffic is amping up with the Tecate
sunrise now: exact time unknown. I can
smell, even taste, the acrid carbon monoxide-dust fumes coming under my door
like Dracula fog. The loose window slats –
there are 16 small, sand-blasted rectangles
held haphazardly in place with finishing
nails sticking out of each window frame
– also efficiently let in the new morning’s
dirty noise rising off Hidalgo Avenue. I’m
on the second floor at the Junipero Hotel.
My room faces this main drag that cuts
through Loreto’s heart.
64
T
he town is one of Baja California
Sur’s 18 mission sites founded
by Jesuit priests. Misión Nuestra
Señora de Loreto was the first Jesuit
establishment on the peninsula,
founded in 1697 by Father Juan
Maria Salvatierra, whose life work was spiritual
conquest. Interesting to know, if you don’t mind
a familiar example of a foreign culture infecting
an area and shoving its religious beliefs down
the native culture’s craw like a spoonful of moral
caster oil (because it’s good for the savages, by
god). Which is what happened here, until the
contagious diseases the missionaries brought
with them killed off much of the indigenous
population – the Pericu Indians who lived simply, supporting themselves by gathering fruit,
hunting, and fishing. But the mission still crowns
Loreto nicely, standing in near perfect condition,
its bell tower overseeing the town’s secular structures. The inside is a well-preserved museum
of liturgical objects and religious-themed oil
paintings.
I can hear the suspension-weary 4X4 pickups
and cloddy workhorse Macks whine past. The
BY C.J. BAHNSEN
machines are sporadic at first, then their noise
erupts until it sounds like we’re under martial
law out there. Not even full light yet and some
of the sadistic drivers are pumping cumbia and
ranchera music out their windows – the stuff
must act as aural caffeine for the local grunts.
But I’m in no mood for an ear enema of accordions and saccharine trumpets again, not after
being kept up into the wee hours last night by
the stuff. Silence! Silence! A kingdom for some
silence!
I reach for one of the extra pillows to sandwich my ears, but they’re long gone, strewn
about the floor surrounding the king-sized bed.
The pillows are covered in some kind of silkpolyester blend that makes them eel slippery.
Every time I tried to lay my head on one during
the night, it would eject out from under my ear
like a tiddlywink, until I got tired of retrieving
them.
Then there are the perros. Loreto is full of
stray dogs that haunt the streets as loners or in
small gangs. And every one of them barks from
midnight until well past the Hour of the Wolf.
One perro sends out a tentative WUFF? that
PHOTO: INGA BRENNAN
Baja California
Inside the bay at Cabo San Lucas,
a small tourboat is dwarfed by
rock formations including the
famous “El Arco”
sounds harmless enough, but this is actually an
exploratory probe, sent into space to find other
canine life forms. Sure enough, it sets off a daisy
chain of yapping, howling, and yips (those might
be the coyotes) that crescendo into a lupine song
loop. Mexican dogs save up all their vocal powers
for the night – because when you see one on the
street in daytime, they exhibit an eerie stoicism, not
even opening their bark lockers to pant or lick their
chops. A Loreto street dog never turns its back on
you, but throws a steady gaze that carries a disturbing potency, a mystic savvy that only a wild thing
can know.
No way to get more sleep against this almighty
street racket so I swing my feet to the floor. There’s
no carpet in my room, only cold tile. The mildewed
walls opposite the door have water running down
them like dirty tears. There’s an AC/heater unit
mounted into the south wall but it’s unresponsive.
The ceiling fan has one decrepit speed that has
the cooling affect of a mouse blowing down on
me. There’s one dresser, but the drawers are lined
with street dust, some with no bottom at all, so
I’ve stacked my clothes about the room in piles on
tabletops. This is the lot I was given.
It’s late January. I’m here for some spontaneous
R & R, after a tedious five-month haul proofreading
investment guides for an insurance company in
Southern California – I do side work as a project
editor to support my writing habit. Not to mention
I need to step away from the known for awhile to
reload stasis into my dulled spirit. I always take
such trips alone so as to travel coiled for ultimate
spontaneity. The girlfriend understands this, and
willingly stays behind to tend to our 20lb Maine
coon.
What I hadn’t expected was the ultra-noisy
quotient and hardscrabble room conditions at the
Junipero. But then, what should I have expected for
US$35 a night? I quickly found out that I couldn’t
change accommodations. All the hotels are booked
because of two environmental conferences in town
this weekend. I will have to stand it for the next two
nights and make peace with it.
I gather my gear and step out onto the common
balcony, a long open-aired breezeway painted in
morning colors, much more pleasant than my
room. I descend the stairs and walk into the mechanistic crescendo and swirling soot.
An hour later I am idling out to sea in Alvaro
Romero’s 25� super-panga. I found him while loitering around the small marina – more like a
manmade lagoon filled with fishing pangas on
the west edge of town – when I heard a voice ask,
“Are you looking for a boat, señor?” Discovery, not
a prepaid reservation with some eco-tour outfit,
is paramount when looking to explore Baja. This
is the way of the equanimous adventurer. More
important, it helps support the locals first, rather
than greasing the palm of an outsider or some foreign agency. Alvaro is a 78-year-old fisherman who
has lived in Loreto all his life and has five daughters.
His boat Sylvia IV is the namesake of his youngest.
He has fished for everything from turtles, tuna, and
sailfish (in the mid ’80s he caught a 682lb sailfish,
the largest on Loreto record) to dorado, chub mackerel, and sharks. He stopped taking turtles long ago
because he didn’t want to see
The town is one of Baja California Sur’s 18 mission sites founded by Jesuit priests. Misión Nuestra
Señora de Loreto was the first Jesuit establishment
on the peninsula, founded in 1697 by Father Juan
Maria Salvatierra, whose life work was spiritual
conquest. Interesting to know, if you don’t mind
a familiar example of a foreign culture infecting
an area and shoving its religious beliefs down
the native culture’s craw like a spoonful of moral
caster oil (because it’s good for the savages, by god).
Which is what happened here, until the contagious
diseases the missionaries brought with them killed
off much of the indigenous population – the Pericu
Indians who lived simply, supporting themselves
by gathering fruit, hunting, and fishing. But the
mission still crowns Loreto nicely, standing in near
perfect condition, its bell tower overseeing the
town’s secular structures. The inside is a well-preserved museum of liturgical objects and religiousthemed oil paintings.
I can hear the suspension-weary 4X4 pickups and cloddy workhorse Macks whine past. The
machines are sporadic at first, then their noise
erupts until it sounds like we’re under martial law
out there. Not even full light yet and some of the
sadistic drivers are pumping cumbia and ranchera
music out their windows – the stuff must act as
aural caffeine for the local grunts. But I’m in no
mood for an ear enema of accordions and saccharine trumpets again, not after being kept up
into the wee hours last night by the stuff. Silence!
Silence! A kingdom for some silence!
I reach for one of the extra pillows to sandwich
my ears, but they’re long gone, strewn about the
floor surrounding the king-sized bed. The pillows
are covered in some kind of silk-polyester blend
that makes them eel slippery. Every time I tried to
lay my head on one during the night, it would eject
out from under my ear like a tiddlywink, until I got
tired of retrieving them.
Then there are the perros. Loreto is full of stray
dogs that haunt the streets as loners or in small
gangs. And every one of them barks from midnight
until well past the Hour of the Wolf. One perro
sends out a tentative WUFF? that sounds harmless
enough, but this is actually an exploratory probe,
sent into space to find other canine life forms. Sure
enough, it sets off a daisy chain of yapping, howling, and yips (those might be the coyotes) that crescendo into a lupine song loop. Mexican dogs save
up all their vocal powers for the night – because
when you see one on the street in daytime, they
exhibit an eerie stoicism, not even opening their
bark lockers to pant or lick their chops. A Loreto
Mission
The town is one of Baja California Sur’s 18 mission sites founded by Jesuit priests. Misión
Nuestra Señora de Loreto was the first Jesuit
establishment on the peninsula, founded in 1697
by Father Juan Maria Salvatierra, whose life
work was spiritual conquest
Los perros
Loreto is full of stray dogs that haunt the streets
as loners or in small gangs. And every one of
them barks from midnight until well past the
Hour of the Wolf.
Junipero Hotel
What I hadn’t expected was the ultra-noisy quotient and hardscrabble room conditions at the
Junipero. But then, what should I have expected
for US$35 a night?
65
street dog never turns its back on you, but
throws a steady gaze that carries a disturbing
potency, a mystic savvy that only a wild thing
can know.
No way to get more sleep against this
almighty street racket so I swing my feet to
the floor. There’s no carpet in my room, only
cold tile. The mildewed walls opposite the door
have water running down them like dirty tears.
There’s an AC/heater unit mounted into the
south wall but it’s unresponsive. The ceiling
fan has one decrepit speed that has the cooling
affect of a mouse blowing down on me. There’s
one dresser, but the drawers are lined with
street dust, some with no bottom at all, so I’ve
stacked my clothes about the room in piles on
tabletops. This is the lot I was given.
It’s late January. I’m here for some spontaneous R & R, after a tedious five-month haul
proofreading investment guides for an insurance company in Southern California – I do side
work as a project editor to support my writing
habit. Not to mention I need to step away from
the known for awhile to reload stasis into my
dulled spirit. I always take such trips alone so
as to travel coiled for ultimate spontaneity. The
girlfriend understands this, and willingly stays
behind to tend to our 20lb Maine coon.
What I hadn’t expected was the ultra-noisy
quotient and hardscrabble room conditions
at the Junipero. But then, what should I have
expected for US$35 a night? I quickly found out
that I couldn’t change accommodations. All the
hotels are booked because of two environmental conferences in town this weekend. I will have
to stand it for the next two nights and make
peace with it.
I gather my gear and step out onto the common balcony, a long open-aired breezeway
painted in morning colors, much more pleasant
than my room. I descend the stairs and walk
into the mechanistic crescendo and swirling
soot.
An hour later I am idling out to sea in Alvaro
Romero’s 25� super-panga. I found him while
loitering around the small marina – more like
a manmade lagoon filled with fishing pangas
on the west edge of town – when I heard a
voice ask, “Are you looking for a boat, señor?”
Discovery, not a prepaid reservation with some
eco-tour outfit, is paramount when looking to
explore Baja. This is the way of the equanimous
adventurer. More important, it helps support
the locals first, rather than greasing the palm
of an outsider or some foreign agency. Alvaro
is a 78-year-old fisherman who has lived in
Loreto all his life and has five daughters. His
boat Sylvia IV is the namesake of his youngest.
He has fished for everything from turtles, tuna,
and sailfish (in the mid ’80s he caught a 682lb
sailfish, the largest on Loreto record) to dorado,
66
chub mackerel, and sharks. He stopped taking
turtles long ago because he didn’t want to see
them disappear. These days, he gives eco-tours
of nearby Coronado Island and hires out as a
sportfishing guide.
My newfound guide gooses the throttle,
letting the 75hp Mercury OB dig in. The panga’s bow rises to a high glide over the rippled
periwinkle desert of the Sea of Cortez, pointed
north toward Coronado for the 25-minute ride.
A brown booby flies off starboard doing a shallow surface dive, using its beak like a dip net.
I offer Alvaro some crackers as we approach
the island. He agrees to take some but only
after he’s sure I still have enough for myself.
The island breaks open the sea like a sleeping
leviathan as we slow to a crawl and putt along
its western side. Alvaro points aloft to the osprey
nests sitting high atop the bluffs, the birds’
white heads peeking above them. We also see
a blue-footed booby on a rock ledge. The sea
is calmer here amid the labyrinth of protected
coves and sea caves. We round The Point, a
flat finger of rock peppered with giant boulder
sculptures where sea lions lounge. They are
mostly males (evident by the bump of muscle
atop their heads, crested with a blonde tuft of
fur resembling a mini-mohawk), not bothering
to lift their heads. Alvaro cuts the motor and lets
us drift close. We get a few warning barks that
echo off the boulder contours from the dominant male who looks over 700lbs.
The moon is strange company in mid afternoon, hanging over the island like a sister sun.
We enter a beach cove on the eastern side of
Coronado. This is our destination, the only part
of the island where boats can make landfall.
The beach is deserted since most tourists are
eco-herded out here in the morning before the
afternoon winds hit. Alvaro is not on anyone’s
clock and proffers no agenda. The water’s color
gradates from periwinkle to sea green to robin’s
egg blue as Alvaro cuts the motor and lets the
panga glissade to a stop in the wet sand. Four
pelicans drift over to us like a curious welcoming party, their webbed feet treading crystalline
water as they watch us with one-eyed interest.
Alvaro secures the boat in silence, then
walks up on the beach, looking over the water
as if it’s his first time here. I join him as he squats
down and scoops up a handful of creamy grains.
“Look at this beautiful sand,” he says, lovingly
tenderizing it then letting the granules run
out between his fingers. It’s true. The buttercolored sand lay out like a downy bedspread,
as if purified by a powder sieve. It’s of a higher
grade than anything I’ve seen on a Southern
California beach. There are two thatch palapas
for shade and a small grill embedded in the
rocks. Tourists are permitted to camp overnight
here, although Alvaro suggests a man shouldn’t
do it without the warmth of a woman.
I meander along the surf line for a ways
then climb up to a rock ledge. I can see Alvaro
down below squatting near his boat, pant legs
rolled up, lazily tracing a stick in the sand. He
obviously cares not where I am or when we will
return. He seems out of reach from the long arm
of time. Nobody’s fool. Maybe that’s why he carries the demeanor of a man half his age.
Floating like a dark zeppelin, my shadow
moves slothful about 8 feet beneath me over
the sloping seafloor. The eggshell-colored sand
is rippled like loosely strewn cloth. I’ve set out
from the beach in wetsuit, hood, and snorkel
gear (water temperature is about 62 degrees),
hugging the rocky reef spine to my right after
consulting with Alvaro about the best snorkeling
vectors. I don’t see much until the bottom drops
off to about 15 feet. I’m suddenly transitioned
into a jungle of sea life, surrounded by scaled
wonders living in this reef commune. The fish
are chilled and unperturbed as I ease into their
world – free diving is often less threatening
than scuba diving because fish aren’t spooked
by your rising bubble wash. I keep my kicks to
a minimum as the inhabitants scrutinize me
with polite drive-bys. King angelfish, Mexican
hogfish, graybar grunts, giant damselfish, and
panamic sergeant majors are only a few of the
dozens of species down here.
Visibility is at least 60 feet and it only gets
better from there as warmer weather approaches.
Alvaro is sitting beneath a palapa like a vacationer as I wade in. I peel off my wetsuit in the
panga, taking in the natural wonders. Without a
word, Alvaro senses I’m ready to leave and I find
him standing at the bow. He starts pushing the
25-foot boat off the shore, with my dead weight
in it. “Need any help?” I ask, suddenly remembering he’s 78 years old. “No,” he says, just as the
panga lifts and is waterborne. It’s an incredible
feat really, owing to his 50-plus years as a panga
captain. He knows exactly how to beach his
boat so it’s not too embedded in the sand, yet
won’t float away. Thus, pushing off is a gesture,
not a labor for him. He bends over the gunwale
at the waist, a human teeter-totter balancing
there as he clicks his feet together to shed sand
from his sandals. He lithely slips aboard and
uses a long oar like a gondolier, pushing the
boat beyond the shallows, moving from one
side to the other. His movements about the boat
are fluid and spry, certainly not the moves of a
tired or aged body. He guides her like an aquatic
Zen Master, and The Sea of Cortez is his youth
serum.
The afternoon winds have agitated whitecaps up from the sea for the ride back. But
Sylvia presses them smooth as the growling
Mercury makes her shag ass on a planed drift
Deserted White Beach
A beach cove on the eastern side of
Coronado is the only part of the island where
boats can make landfall. The water’s color
gradates from periwinkle to sea green to
robin’s egg blue
PHOTO: ELISALOCCI
over the gulf. This water is hued like a cat’s eye
marble, made to dance and flash by the yolky sun.
The ride is ultimate solace after a hard night at the
Junipero.
Approaching the mainland, I notice some large
homes being built along the waterfront south of
town. There aren’t a lot of them yet, and much of
the land is still undeveloped. It isn’t hard to foresee
that they will soon overrun the open land and
devour the once virgin coastline. The waterfront
edge of Loreto sports a stone-tiled boardwalk lined
with new restaurants, clubs, and hotels that appear
pseudo-posh against the old parts of town.
Over three years ago, an 8,000-acre area
along three miles of coastline was purchased
as a land trust by Canadian developer tycoon,
David Butterfield. The site became The Villages of
Loreto Bay, founded in partnership with FONATUR
(Mexico’s tourism development agency) and Loreto
Bay Company. These “sustainable communities”
will soon compound like opened pages in a popup
book five miles south of town, with homes starting at $300,000. As I write, Loreto Bay real estate
brokers are luring resort-minded Americans and
Canadians there via four-day package tours of
Loreto Bay, part of a Priority Opportunity Program
designed to seduce second-home buyers into making their “dreams come true.”
Billed as “Authentic Mexican Seaside Villages”
of “stirring beauty,” Loreto Bay’s design promises
to honor the local culture and history. Which is why
there’s an 18-hole golf course in the works, along
with a Tennis Center designed by John McEnroe
and the “magnificent” Loreto Bay Beach Club &
Spa. Since it’s common knowledge that golf and
tennis are time-honored as the great Mexican pastimes – right up there with squash and polo – it’s
easy to appreciate the painstaking efforts Loreto
Bay Company is taking to complement a centuries-old fishing village. About 700 of the 2,000-3,300
68
sq-foot units have been sold. There are 6,000 units
planned.
I’m just here to explore the original fishing
town, warts and all, before it’s gone. In some ways
the expansion is a positive development, bringing
in tourist dollars to native businesses and granting
more jobs. But what’s good for the local economy
is also attracting outsiders; Mexicans who come
from the mainland and other areas of Baja “to take
the jobs,” says Alvaro. “You don’t know where they
come from.”
After we tie up in the marina, I help Alvaro
unload his gear and put it in the back of his saltrusted Ford pickup, even though he doesn’t ask. He
also doesn’t ask me for his fee that we had agreed
on upfront. Instead, he stands hat-in-hand and
waits, eyes toward the ground. This is my favorite
part about Mexican culture: the gentle courtesies
and plumage of subtleties by which the people
express themselves. They almost never come at
you through the front door or a hard gaze, preferring silent implication and a sidelong approach.
They journey the day-to-day like brush-footed butterflies in a field of ocotillo; there’s no hurry and
always plenty of time to alight on a new bloom to
stretch the wings. I hand Alvaro 800 pesos, plus tip.
“You can always find me here,” he says in parting. I
hope so.
I have lunch near the hotel at Café Ole, an unassuming sidewalk café shaded by an elephant tree.
It’s a place where locals in dark clothes and pensive
sensibilities go for a cigarette and java. Next door
is an Internet café that’s closed every time I walk
past.
After a chef’s salad with Mexican coffee, I let the
streets take me anywhere.
Just south of the cafe on the corner is a trinkets
and T-shirt shop. I duck inside, having glimpsed
some classical guitars on display. I noodle around
on one and it sings okay. My grandfather, when he
was in just the right mood, used to take me up to
his sitting room and play his Alvarez guitar for me.
The sound of plucked catgut always reminds me of
him. The memory is shredded when the store clerk
converges on me and the shrapnel of his brownnosing salesmanship explodes around my head:
“Ohhhhhhh, Senor, but you play such music... yessss! ... I make you a good deal... De color look good
against you pale skin...”
He is a young man, holding a cuguama (the
local term for the tall bottles of Tecate – the Mexican
equivalent of Budweiser – named after the sea
turtle), thinly disguised in a paper bag. During
his sales monologue, I gather that he is from El
Salvador, that he is looking for enough money to
continue the evening’s buzz with some fine tequila,
that he’ll accept American cash, and that he has a
family to support. In the back of the store a comely
Latina in a loose dress is dust-mopping the floor in
slow dreamy circles. She hums long soothing lines,
in some kind of trance, perhaps cooing to the life
inside her swelled belly. I try to buy a T-shirt, but
Talk Man doesn’t have my size. When I leave he
snaps silent, like a windup toy run out of torque.
The night chill drops like a guillotine. One
moment you’re shedding layers from the heat,
the next you’re putting it all back on, plus more.
I start walking farther outside town and end up
in the dark backstreets of the barrios. The houses
are small, adobe looking, as if made from one
piece of shaped clay. Music spills into the dark
street as I walk. Across a dark field, a four-piece
folk band plays cumbia ballads under an oasis of
light to about 100 locals. The people are dressed
in white and cream colors, sitting at attention
on hard-folding chairs, as if in church. No one is
dancing. They simply stare at the band, listening
like thieves.
I turn north down another street that’s so dark
I have to watch the ground directly ahead of each
step. A pit bull comes from the bowels of night
and tears into me with vicious barks, its teeth
flashing near my groin. Luckily, the hellhound
is kept at bay with a five-foot gate closing off an
alleyway. It’s the only dog I ever see that’s “kept.”
This is my cue to turn back.
Weary from the long sleepless night before,
I drag my feet back to The Junipero and sit on
the balcony ledge, anticipating the car-cruising
frenzy that overtakes Salvatierra Street. Hondas
and Toyotas are the rides of choice for the young
hombres, tricked with after-market performance
exhausts that make the cars sound like two-ton
gnats buzzing by, coupled with mariachi, banda,
ranchera, and any other folk strains of Mexican
music – wherein trumpets, tubas, and accordions
are the heroic instruments. The bottom end is
so savagely sub-woofed, my ears go into sensory
overload when I get strafed by the bass-thump of
a passing car. The vibration makes my teeth click
and I wonder why all the storefront windows
aren’t shatter-proofed with duct tape Xs.
In my room, I try to breathe life into the AC/
heater wall unit to get some heat, but the thing
is flat-lined. When I get in the shower I realize
I’ve forgotten to bring shampoo, but I find a little
complimentary packet that must be Mexican
shampoo. As I’m lathering up my hair, the shower
light cuts out along with all the power in my wing
of the hotel. It’s near pitch black so I finish my
shower by feel. The power outage lasts about 10
minutes. When the shower light comes back on, I
notice my hands are dripping black and my eyes
sting. I check the plastic packet again. Turns out I
haven’t used shampoo after all, but some kind of
hair coloring. The label reads, “negro en negro.”
I step out of the shower booth posthaste
and am padding across the cold tiles when the
door to my room flies open. A strange Caucasian
(obviously not hotel staff) enters as I stand nude
and dripping. He stops dead in surprise until I
find myself expulsing Tourette’s-like, “Helloooo?!
Wrong room there, moron!” He utters an apologetic “Ohhhp!” as he backs out and his footsteps
hurry away.
After locking the door (correctly this time), I
walk to the vanity mirror and assess the damage
to my look. Whereas my hair was medium brown
before the power outage, it’s now charcoal black
– so black, in fact, it looks deep blue under direct
light – against my pasty face. I look like Wayne
Newton from the forehead up, complete with
black dye running down from my hairline. I’m not
sure how long it will last and, anyway, I’m too cold
and tired to try washing it out.
The quilt on the king-sized bed is just thick
enough to ward off the cold air wafting in. I
slide in. Sleep will be a long time coming. To the
muchachos from the surrounding desert villages,
Loreto represents a big city of lights, a place to
cruise the drag, check the scene while settling
into a nice Tecate-tequila fade. The weekend
bumper-to-bumper cruising ritual peaks from
about 10:00 p.m. until about 4:00 a.m., or until
you hang yourself from the ceiling fan with your
shoelaces.
I take small dozes in between the car clamor,
barking dogs, and banshee cries of “YA YA YA
AAAAAAAAEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!” from the midnight rancheros who can’t handle their firewater.
The next morning’s sun makes the room’s window slats glow like stained glass. I hear lingering
voices outside my door and investigate. There’s
a young couple sitting on the second story ledge
overlooking the street. It’s a beautiful Baja day.
They are with Grupo Tortuguero (“Turtle Group”),
one of the conferences here for the weekend. The
girl leaves me to talk with AJ, since I am curious
about his organization. He tells me the conference is their 9th annual reunion and some of the
attendees have been put up at the Junipero, along
with other hotels. The grassroots organization
was founded in 1998 with the goal of recovering
the five endangered species of Eastern Pacific Sea
Turtles – hawksbills, loggerheads, leatherbacks,
olive ridleys, and green turtles – that inhabit
Baja’s waters and nest along the peninsula. Turtle
mortality is occurring with the direct take by
poachers who sell turtle meat and eggs on the
black market in commercial centers like Oaxaca,
Sonora, Acapulco, Mexico City, and Michoacán.
In Baja alone, 35,000 sea turtles die in the hands
of poachers annually even though turtle hunting
has been banned since 1990. It’s also illegal to
catch, sell, or consume all five turtle species. Four
species are already extinct.
I walk down to the marina again to find Alvaro
and hire his boat. But Sylvia IV is missing from its
slip. I take the boardwalk back toward town and
meet an old Mexican couple coming the opposite way. The woman wears a long flowered skirt
and colorful scarf, draped loose like a veil. The
lines in her face are as deep-set as her eyes. Her
husband is mustachioed and walks as if carried
on the wind. His steps seem nonexistent, yet he’s
in motion. His eyes are shadowed by a white cap,
but they reveal something familiar. I don’t know
what it is.
We trade greetings, but they speak no English.
The woman is suddenly holding a small basket
like an illusionist producing a coin. We all sit on
a bench beside the sea and she shows me her
handmade necklaces and larger baskets.
With my tiny knowledge of Spanish, I find
out their names are Alfredo and Cantilda. They
are Seri Indians from Sonora and are somehow
connected to the Turtle conference. This is particularly ironic when Alfredo pulls out a velvetcovered spindle that displays an array of rings,
all made from turtle shells. It’s illegal to make or
sell the parts of endangered species. I buy one for
200 pesos, after Alfredo explains that he gets the
shells from sea turtles that wash up onshore, dead
or very sick, at Tiburón Island where I gather he
is some kind of eco-guide. The rings are polished
like glass, only more compelling and striated with
subtle colors of the ocean. I also buy the small
palm-sized basket for 300 pesos. The craftsmanship is so intricate and symmetrically patterned
as to seem impossible on human terms. It’s been
said that the baskets made by the Seri Indians are
so densely woven that you can fill one with water
and it won’t leak. They feel hard as rock yet have
an organic texture.
The Seri Indians lived in the same area for
about 500 years, a hunting, nomadic people
whose seacoast territory extended from Guaymas
Bay to about 75 miles north of Tiburón (“Shark”)
Island. They were left alone until the 17th century
when the Jesuit priests came along and tried to
convert them to Christians and farmers. But the
Seri resisted or fled. What they couldn’t outrun
were the foreign diseases, war, and starvation,
courtesy of the Spanish conquerors. By the 1930s
their numbers were cut down from about 6,000 to
300.
After our business transaction, Alfredo and I
stand and attempt to converse some more while
Cantilda rests on the bench. I gesture more than
usual to augment my horrific Spanish. Each time
I raise my right hand, Alfredo takes it in his and
shakes it for a long time. This happens over and
over. He never tires of shaking or extended contact with a stranger. There is strong medicine in
his touch. His eyes are kind but fierce. During our
last shake, we both notice three red-tailed hawks
circling far above in a silver-aqua sky. I can only
admire their freedom, and all that wide open
space. But Alfredo acknowledges the hawks with
a soft laugh of knowing.
The commerce part of my interaction with
the Seris is apparently not permitted on these
streets by the new establishment. In its sales
brochure package, Loreto Bay Company includes
69
an excerpt from a 2005 article in The Sun that
declares: “The Loreto area prohibits the street
and beach-hustling of trinkets, timeshares, Tshirts and other dream-interrupting memorabilia...” I guess that could be considered a
praiseworthy prohibition, depending on which
side of the dream you’re on.
The backstreets through town necessitate
cautionary hiking, even by day. Finished sidewalks are sporadic at best, ending abruptly into
a dirt path or nothing at all but gravel and road
edge. Sometimes the sidewalks suddenly lurch
upward or drop out, leaving a mini crater, then
start up again. I almost eat the dust more than
once. There is also lots of jagged fencing along
properties, reaching out trying to shred my
clothing.
I don’t find any cookie-cutter neighborhoods in this town. A nicely groomed home
could be right next to a plywood shanty with
a dirt yard and chickens followed by a cabanastyled abode. Crime isn’t a problem yet, but
I move past some gang bangers on Madero,
standing in front of a plain green one-story,
their arms sleeved in ink, heads shaven. There
are more in the backyard, sitting on plastic
chairs around a pit fire, heads bobbing subtly
to Mexican rap.
Liquor stores are scattered like Starbucks,
always within reach. Some of them not much
more than closets filled with hooch, marked
by a Tecate sign. Always, there are liquor store
cowboys leaning against their dusty pickups,
quaffing a cuguama in a paper bag. I find a man
sleeping in his car in front of one of them.
Near the Central Plaza, Salvatierra Street is
brick-laid, arched with trees and vines blending
in well with the mission and a large gazebo in
the public park. The street is lined with artisans,
Mexican Indians who squat stoic on the ground
beside their hand-woven shawls, scarves, sombreros, bags, and baskets, themselves wearing
rainbow colors that seem to emanate a holy
glow.
Coming back to the Junipero, I pass by the
mission, which faces the north side of the hotel.
There are some young boys sitting on the steps,
giggling, talking in hushed voices. They’re looking across the road at a cheap woman standing
at the back of a full-sized pickup with a cap over
the bed. She stands at the rear bumper applying
heavy makeup, using a compact mirror. She’s
wearing a hooker-high skirt, pumps, and a tight
low-cut top. She makes a real show of putting
her face on, shifting her weight, letting the boys
ogle her legs. Inside the truck bed, I can see an
old man, sleeping fitfully face down, mumbling
in his dreams. Maybe she’ll be working at the
new strip club that’s having a grand opening tonight... You don’t know where they come
from.
70
After dinner and a siesta in my room, it’s
evening. I follow the sound of happy people
and end up in Mike’s Bar, west of my hotel on
Hidalgo. The place is new and intimate. The
tunes are good and the bartenders are fast
on the pour, sometimes not even taking my
money. Mike’s is loaded with people from the
turtle conference who take me in as one of
their own. They are young beautiful souls with
a cause, mad to live and change the world.
After midnight and many Pacificos, I’m
swept up in a group exodus to a waterfront
club called Koco Loco. But the place isn’t my
style. The male patrons are lined up with our
hands against the wall and body-searched
outside the club by security thugs. Koco Loco
is a hard-edged nightclub that seems out
of place in Loreto (for now), like something
you’d find in Acapulco or Mazatlán. But not
here. I climb the steps and walk into a laser
loft. Machines puke smoke over the porcelain
dancefloor, cut by the spinning green lasers.
The turtle chicks are busting moves in the
fog to a ranchera-disco-jungle-techno mix.
From behind his elevated power center, the
spastic DJ keeps the volume well beyond “11.”
It feels like the maddening beat is jack-hammering stress cracks along my cranium. The
four-to-the-floor thump is like a barrage of
nukes going off in rhythmic salvos. I abscond
from the hellish place and walk back to hotel,
passing a drunk urinating on his own car tire
(before he gets in a drives off ).
Sunday morning is a serene gift. Virtually
everything is cerrado. The streets of Loreto are
sleepy, except for a few stymied tourists wandering around as if they have dementia. The
stillness is sweet music, broken only by the
mission bells that ring every hour. Of course,
this is the day I have to leave. I trek south down
Madero and come across a hole-in-the-wall
serving breakfast. There’s no sign outside, just a
placard that reads desayuno y comida (“breakfast and lunch”) in scribbled chalk. The place
isn’t much more than four cinderblock walls
and some plastic tables and chairs. A 30-something woman and her mother are chopping
veggies at the counter. Everything is fresh and
in full view. They have not hired a marketing
consultant, hung art, or even a sign. This is an
extension of their home. Honest and simple. I
am the only customer. They are glad to see me,
but speak no English. After several attempts at
Spanish, I order chorizo, fruit and tortillas with
coffee.
An old man walks in. His clothes are poor
but neat, skin the color of a tobacco leaf. His
proud posture and slightly upturned chin make
me think of my grandfather, Daniel Contreras,
again. He had the same dignified aura... He
migrated to the U.S. from Mexico City when he
was 18, a touring musician who played viola,
guitar and trombone, ending up in Toledo,
Ohio, where he worked for the railroad his
whole life. He was also a neighborhood healer,
a kind of medicine man, who would receive
people into his house and treat them for malaise with surreptitious concoctions. He used to
call me a “zebra,” because I’m half Mexican and
half white.
The women recognize the old man who
politely orders some sort of brown blended
drink. It’s made carefully and served to him
as if he were an ambassador. I eat my healing
breakfast watching the women preparing the
day’s food, speaking lively Spanish, happy they
have two customers now. The homemade tortillas are so amazing I eat each one plain, tearing
off pieces as if it were cotton candy. I pull out
some coins to pay. I’m pretty good with paper
money, but I can’t make out the denominations
of Mexican coinage too well. So I open my hand
and nod to the woman. After a questioning gaze
to confirm my permission, she picks the correct
denomination of change from it with humble
fingers.
Near my hotel, I run into some wandering
turtle people with hangovers. They can’t find
anyplace open for breakfast so I lead them
back to the hole-in-the-wall and recommend
the chorizo. I sit with them and drink fresh
mango juice as they devour their breakfasts,
disarmed by the flavor. The two Mexican
women are chattering with musical fervor,
ecstatic to have five customers now. They
tend to us with saintly concern. This is the
real Loreto. And in this austere room there
is something that can’t be re-created by the
mimicry of brilliant minds that come from
other lands with Orwellian intentions of manifesting Utopia. I don’t know what you call
it, this mystic indomitable aspect of original
Mexico. But I remember a line from a poem
that goes: “All my life my heart has sought a
thing I cannot name.” YVC
About the Author
C.J. Bahnsen is a freelance writer based in Newport
Beach, California. His stories have appeared in the
Los Angeles Times, New York Times and Scuba Diving
Magazine. He is currently working on the screenplay
for a theatrical nature documentary, Island of the
Seals, to be released next year by Rio Films.
cjbahnsen@earthlink.net
Information
www.utelakeranch.com
800.883.5253
www.somersfurniture.com
702.837.1717
www.wineracksamerica.com
888.373.6057
www.kaplancommunities.com
404.815.0306
OxyCalm
www.stjosephinstitute.com
814.692.4954
www.vola.com
800.351.0038
www.ArturoFuente.com
813.241.8275
www.oxycalm.com
866.699.2256
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SPAS AT SEA
Well-Being
Life on the ocean
Charters
WRITTEN BY
MIRIAM CAIN
It seems no five-star holiday these days is complete without a spa element, and yacht char-
waves can be
ter agencies have been quick to follow the trend. Following a recent study, the International
seriously decadent,
Spa Association (ISPA) reported that there are two types of spa customer: the “spa-goer”
but it can also be
the perfect way to
maximize
your health and
well-being
who sees their visit as part of a long-term health and fitness regime, and the “spa-traveller”
who seeks to indulge in new and different experiences while travelling.
A
t the forefront of charter innovation, CNI
has developed the ultimate solution for
both these types of spa customer. Now,
you can enjoy every level of spa experience or
health retreat while on board your yacht anywhere
in the world. From occasional pampering treatments with local beauty experts, to full-time, onboard fitness and nutrition teams, you can travel
in style and luxury, and return home in optimum
shape.
Your Own Floating Spa
If you think about it, a yacht is the perfect place
to optimize your health. The ocean can be one
of nature’s most beautiful and peaceful environments, easily inspiring relaxation and reflection,
yet it also has an inherent energy that can be harnessed by those inclined to activity. It’s an endless
72
arena for water sports; its motion alone can help
to tone muscles and improve core balance; and
all that fresh ocean air and vitamin D–enriching
sunshine is a tonic for mind and body.
There are two ways you can approach an onboard well-being experience. You can either opt
to have a semi-spa experience, where CNI will
arrange for local beauticians, hairdressers, massage therapists, and fitness trainers to come on
board as and when you choose, or you can go
for the full mind and body experience. The latter
can also be tailored to whatever level you choose,
and can work in one of two ways. Either you can
bring on board your own personal dieticians,
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your charter, or you can leave it to your charter
broker to commission a full team of experts to
join you on your cruise and create a full mind and
body program – just like any world-class spa. As
an added benefit, if half your charter party want
to take advantage of this option but the other
half simply want to relax and indulge in a regular
charter, your charter broker and captain can make
arrangements to accommodate both extremes on
the same yacht – ensuring both groups get exactly
what they want from their holiday.
The Semi-Spa Charter
If you want an element of health and beauty
on a charter, you can select a few treatments and
perhaps choose to have some gentle exercise incorporated into your holiday. In addition, your chef
can also tailor your diet to complement a healthy
lifestyle. This is the best of both worlds, in that
you can still enjoy plenty of gourmet treats and
relaxation at the same time as being aware of your
health. It’s really up to you to decide what you want,
and how much of it; but as a guideline you may
want to incorporate daily massages – either in your
stateroom, on deck, or perhaps on the beach – or
opt for the odd yoga or Pilates sessions on board
under the guidance of a trained professional, or
even have a specially tailored fitness program that
will enhance your daily life on board. Alternatively,
your broker can book treatments at destination
spas and rounds of golf on the best courses in your
charter area. Depending on the location, yoga lessons on the beach and a range of outdoor activities can also be arranged if you make your wishes
known far enough in advance.
The Whole Deal
If you want to go for the complete well-being
charter, you can again specify the extent of it,
and bear in mind that anything can be arranged.
For example, you could focus on fitness alone,
under the guidance of experts travelling on board
with you, or opt for a detox program that incorporates treatments and dietary measures, or you
could decide to combine together fitness, detox,
relaxation, and diet for maximum effect. In such
a case, your charter broker would recommend a
specialized team of experts joining you on board
for some, or all, of your charter. For example,
health experts in:spa has now launched in:spa
bespoke and has teamed up with CNI to create
an in:spa yacht charter experience that is totally
unique. The full team consists of massage therapists, a nutritionist (who would liaise with your
on-board chef), yoga or Pilates teachers, and
personal trainers. Each is an expert in their own
field, and prior to the charter, and during the
charter itself, they will discuss with you your lifestyle, health concerns, expectations, and goals so
they can tailor a program that will tackle the areas
you want to focus on and achieve the results you
desire – whether weight loss, improved fitness,
greater flexibility, stress relief, detoxing, or simply
a heightened sense of well-being.
Benefits Aboard:Yoga
Literally translated from Sanskrit, “yoga” means to “yoke” or unify the body, mind, and spirit, and
there are few more peaceful and relaxing places to unwind and get in touch with your soul than out
at sea. The unique setting of a superyacht at anchor provides the perfect environment for retreating into your own space and focusing on the exercises with your own personal yoga instructor. You
can salute the sunrise with an early morning session on the foredeck, followed by a late-morning
session on the beach beneath the shelter of palm trees, or in a cabana prepared by your crew. The
truly dedicated can also have an early evening session back on board as the sun sets, or a late-evening candlelit session on the aft deck. Whatever your style of Hatha yoga, be it Ieyngar, Kundalani,
Kripalu, Ashtanga or Viniyoga, you can vary your sessions to different levels and intensities, mixing
different styles or concentrating on just one style. After a week of sessions you will feel the benefits as yoga is not only an effective form of exercise, incorporating deep stretching and meditation,
but is also believed to have a protective or healing effect on virtually every organ and body system,
as well as emotional and psychological benefits.
Benefits Aboard: Nutrition
Eating well is the key ingredient to any personal improvement and health-maintenance plan. Your
nutritionist and/or chef can take you through the essentials and teach you how to get the most from
the foods you eat. Nutrition plays a major role in any healthy lifestyle and your time on board can be
a fun way to learn about different foods, experiment with new dishes, and even learn about decoding food labels, understand cholesterol levels, and find out how different foods can impact on your
skin, weight, and heart. Your nutritionist can even suggest ways to translate all you learn on board
into your daily life once you return home.
73
SPAS AT SEA
“By the end of
one week, after
a combination
of exercise,
early nights,
massages, and
an amazing
detox diet you
will be feeling
thoroughly
re-energized,
relaxed, and
detoxified”
Information
74
Benefits Aboard: Massage &Therapies
A superyacht provides an array of luxurious rejuvenation areas that are ideal for massages. Whether
it be in the yacht’s own treatment room/spa area, on deck, or on the beach, with your own masseuse on board every treatment can be a distinct and unique experience. With options varying from
reflexology and hot-stone therapy to sports massage, wraps, and scrubs, your charter broker can
organize the finest treatments aboard or ashore.
Many of the world’s charter hot spots are also areas where fresh local produce is used in the
massage oils – such as coconut oil in tropical areas, olive oil in the Mediterranean, and fresh fruit
extracts in the Caribbean and South America. All these ingredients are best used fresh and therefore you can get the most beneficial results for your skin by having treatments on site. Likewise, it’s
fun to have treatments in the area in which they originated. Where better to experience a Thai massage than along the southern coastline of Thailand? Nowadays ancient techniques are combined
with modern science, using indigenous herbs and ingredients and the latest well-being expertise.
Wherever you charter, mineral-rich seawater, bracing marine air, healing salt, exfoliating
sand, and nutrient-rich seaweed is in ample supply and Mediterranean seawater, rich in iodine,
is often used in treatments. Known as thalassotherapy, it is featured in many spas around the
Mediterranean where marine products, such as algae, are used to eliminate toxins, relax muscles,
and stimulate the blood circulation.
If you’re chartering in South America, try the indigenous hot-stone treatment, which uses warm
and cold stones of volcanic origin to promote a sense of well-being. The stones’ thermal energy, in
conjunction with the therapist’s technique, directs energy flow in the body to harmonize, restore,
and rejuvenate. Finally, if you’re in the East Mediterranean, a trip to a Turkish Haman is a must.
Benefits Aboard: Cardiovascular Fitness
Complementing any yoga or toning/stretching activities that you do, aerobic exercise will help to
improve your overall fitness and strengthen your heart and bones. Whether you want to sweat it
out in your yacht’s high-tech gym, complete with ocean views, practice your swing on a customized
on-board driving range, or head off for a bout of beach acrobatics, your charter broker, crew, and
trainers can arrange plenty to keep body-conscious clients active. After evaluating your fitness levels
and determining your goals, your personal trainer can devise and supervise a unique program using
the natural surroundings of the sea and beach, as well as the gym facilities on your yacht.
Many of the larger yachts have their own gymnasiums, with cycles, treadmills, stair-steppers,
and rowing machines, as well as free-standing weights. For the smaller yachts without such facilities, the deck areas can provide ample space for all manner of aerobic activities, and even sailing
yachts can prove to be an original fitness arena with winches and masts or side rails used for resistance training. Your personal trainer can advise you on exercises that use your body weight as a
form of resistance, which can be further enhanced by the motion of the yacht, as this requires your
body to work harder to balance. Most of the yachts in the CNI fleet have water-sports equipment
that can be used for fun cardio exercise. Waterskiing, kayaking, windsurfing, and snorkelling all promote body toning, weight loss, strength, flexibility, and stress reduction.
Bear in mind, however, that this option is only realistic on board one of
the larger superyachts, such as the 69m Sherakhan, where the accommodations allow for the team to accompany you as you travel.
If you opt for the in:spa charter, it will be quite far removed from the
experience you may be used to. From the moment you arrive there is no
alcohol, no caffeine, no salt, no dairy or wheat, no snacking, and no sugar,
and the usual alcoholic or hot-chocolate nightcap will be replaced with
herbal tea. What’s more, you won’t find your mini bar stocked with the usual
spirits or sodas; instead water and juices will be provided, and your pillow
will sadly not proffer a chocolate treat each night. However, despite this
element of discipline and control with regard to your diet and daily routine,
rest assured that the accommodation, levels of service, and facilities all
honor the luxury standards you’d expect.
If you choose, you can still incorporate days where you visit exciting
places or relax, after all it is your holiday, but a typical in:spa charter day will
be something like the following.
A sunrise start may see you take part in a toning yoga session with a
backdrop of the coastline on the horizon. After a fulfilling and well-deserved
breakfast of fresh juices, herbal teas, fruit, porridge, rye-bread, and poached
or scrambled eggs, it’s time for a more vigorous type of exercise. Daily activities depend on your location and preference, but may include a mix of running on the beach, swimming in the sea, hiking, cycling, and circuit training,
interspersed with more yoga or Pilates sessions, and one-on-one time with
each member of the team to focus on your own personal goals.
After the morning session you will be ready for the main meal of the
day – all manner of soups, grilled vegetables, and organic salads, all fresh
from the local markets. Homemade burgers, kebabs, couscous, rice and
pasta dishes will be provided; for charter members who choose not to join
the program, these can be served with the usual flourish and abundance.
Your nutritionist will be on hand to help you identify your weaknesses,
advise you on healthy alternatives, and keep your will iron-strong. This is a
great opportunity to review your whole lifestyle, and your nutritionist will
chat with each of you during one-to-one sessions to enlighten you about
nutrition, blood-sugar levels, and digestion, and to offer you practical tips
to make your diet work for you. If you want to take it to another level, the
nutrition sessions can be backed up with demonstrations from the chef
on how to prepare the appetizing meals you have been eating, as well as
alternative suggestions for breakfasts, lunches, dinners, and snacks – minus
salt, flour or wheat – once you return home. Afternoons are spent having
one-on-one sessions with your personal trainer to help you plan how to
keep up the good work once you return home.
As well as all the hard work, you’ll be pleased to hear that massages,
wraps, and facials can be included in the timetable to enhance the body/
mind experience.
By the end of one week, after a combination of exercise, early nights,
massages, and an amazing detox diet (which, despite eliminating cream,
sugar, butter, and salt, tastes delicious) you will be feeling thoroughly reenergized, relaxed, and detoxified. YVC
CNI now leads the way in replicating five-star spa experiences on board. For
more information on a CNI well-being charter, and charters that incorporate
specific spa, sports and nutrition elements, contact your CNI charter broker.
www.cnconnect.com. For details on in:spa, including in:spa bespoke, and
the company’s stylish land-based retreats in Ibiza, Morocco, and Spain, go to
www.inspa-retreats.com
ADVERTISER INDEX
Advertiser
Website
Telephone
Page
Antigua Charter Yacht Show
www.antiguayachtshow.com
Blue Water Yachts Charters
www.bluewateryachtcharters.com
800-732-7245
57
Camper & Nicholsons
www.cnconnect.com
561-6552121
31
Cocha
www.cocha.com
866-351-1724
45
CYBA
www.cyba.net
542-4233
45
Gervil Watch Company
www.mayors.com
800-4MAYORS
Golden Yachts
www.goldenyachts.gr
302109673203/4
Navis Yacht Charter
www.navis-yacht-charter.com
49
Newport Yacht Management
www.nymyachts.com
57
Northrop and Johnson
www.njyachts.com
954-522-3344
37
Ocean Independence
www.ocean-independence.com
1-954-524-9366
25
OceanWorld
www.oceanworld.net
809-970-3373
15
Platinum Television
www.classicoboats.com
800-597-1186
71
Shannon Webster Charters, Inc.
www.shannonwebster.com
386-439-0188
23
The Cliffs
www.cliffsxm.com
866-978-5839
41
The Moorings
www.mooringsfractional.com
800-675-7996
19
The Sacks Group
www.sacksyachts.com
954-764-7742
5
Trimarine Boat
www.bvisailing.com
800-648-3393
57
Toyota Celebrity Classic
www.stanhumphries.com
858-836-0133
63
Valef Yachts Ltd.
www.valefyachts.com
215-641-1624
13
Virgin Islands Charter Yachts
www.virginyachts.com
800-596-0594
49
Yacht Charter Group, Inc.
www.yachtchartergroup.com
954-728-9129
7
YachtFest
www.yachtfest.com
858-836-0133
67
Yachting Greece
www.yachtingreece.gr
(+33) 210 323 3057
Yachting Partners International
www.ypi.co.uk
1-800-626-0019
53
Cover IV 84
29
About the Writer
Miriam Cain is the communications and publications manager for Camper &
Cover III 83
Nicholsons International. She is also the managing editor for the the luxury travel
magazine Sea & I.
2-3
mc@lon.cnyachts.com
THIS INDEX IS PROVIDED AS AN ADDITIONAL SERVICE TO OUR READERS.
THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ASSUME ANY LIABILITY FOR ERRORS AND OMMISSIONS.
75
CARIBBEAN
Charter a Yacht for a Week
in a Magical Place....
...And come back invigorated
and ready to take on the world!
MEMO...
TO: You should know if this is for you....
SUBJECT: We Gotta Get Out of This Place
WRITTEN BY
RANDY AND CATHERINE STORIE
76
THE PROBLEM: You Can’t Always Get What You Want...
T
he basic problem is a Question of Balance. We know all too well about the grind of daily life. I
love my day job (no, I’m not kidding - I am one of the lucky ones that really does) But sometimes
it seems impossible to find enough time and energy to take care of my family AND take care of
my business AND still have some quality time for myself. You may recall when Mr. SPOCK (with totally
no emotion) said “The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the one”. Lately it seems that the wants
and needs of the family outweigh my personal needs and wants. Even worse, the demands of the business outweigh both my personal and my family’s wants and needs. I can’t get no satisfaction. I am left
alone on the hamster wheel running at full speed ...
I need to make some time for myself - to relax, to have fun – and thereby to recharge my own batteries and revitalize my soul. I want and need to spend time with the family before the kids forget
what I look like or I forget what they look like, they already seem about 4 inches taller than last time I
looked....
If I were to fantasize about the PERFECT holiday from the rat race – one where I could do just
about everything I can think of to relax and have
fun – one where I truly could re-energize myself
- it would be something like this:
1) The location should be incredibly beautiful.
Golden sunshine, warm breezes, clear turquoise water, swaying palms, soft white sand
beaches...
2) There should be lots of fun activities – sailing,
hiking, swimming, biking, snorkeling, scuba
diving, exploring, waterskiing, fishing, shopping, surfing, dancing etc.
3) There should be plenty of time and opportunity to relax, read a book, catch some rays,
catch a few Z’s, cuddle with my sweetie and
just unwind and chill.
4) There has to be GREAT food and wine.
5) I want to do what I want, when I want. If I
want to play, I play. If I want to sleep, I sleep. If
I want to eat, I eat.... You get the picture.
6) I want someone else to do all the work, and
take care of all the details. I want to be pampered and taken care of like I’m a Rock Star.
7) I want to be able to get away from the crowds.
Spend time with my children, or with just my
one true love. Quiet, uninterrupted, quality
time.
8) I’m sure you’ve all gone on vacations where
you spent so much time and energy running
around doing everything and seeing everything that you came home more exhausted
than when you left. You had a great time, but
you really needed a vacation by the time you
got home. I want to get home from this vacation totally rested and rejuvenated.
goes down we all sit under the stars and talk
about the fun day we’ve had, and plan for more
adventures tomorrow. Maybe after the kids are
asleep I can pretend I’m still in college and drink
too much and fall asleep under the stars. I think it
must be a scientific fact that there are more stars
in the Virgin Islands than anywhere else on the
planet. But if instead the moon is full and so big
and bright that it’s hard to see the stars then I can
lay on a deserted beach beside my lover with the
gentle waves just lapping at our feet.
Personally, I prefer a sailing yacht, and I prefer
the Virgin Islands. When the sails are full and the
only sounds are the wind in the rigging and the
sound of the water rushing past, that’s getting
about as close to heaven on earth as I know...,
I want the wind in my hair and the sun beating
down. I want to see and feel the sexy rain. Up
north they don’t understand, but down here we
call it liquid sunshine...warm rain while the sun
is still shining....then in an instance as fast as it
came...the rain is all over...that’s sexy rain...
Others might prefer the St. Martin, St. Barts
type of holiday, enjoying the even greater luxury
and opulence of a motor yacht. Not as quiet and
laid back as sailing the Virgin Islands. There is
more night life. There are Casinos. The towns are
more European in flavor.
Different escapes for different personalities.
But the end result is the same: After a week or
two of this sort of fantasy - I know from past
experience how much I will not want to leave
and how much I will long to go back. Yet I come
back invigorated and ready to take on the world.
Miraculously the business runs smoother, the
family is harmonious, more gets done in a shorter time, and all is well in my universe. Balance is
restored. YVC
THE SOLUTION:
But if you try sometimes you just
might find you get what you need...
www.vicharteryachts.com 800-596-0576
Photos courtesy of Jim Scheiner:
www.rainbowvisionsbvi.com
I have found what, for me, is the perfect
answer to this problem.
When I need to get away and renew my zest
for life, I charter a yacht in the Virgin Islands, and
spend a magical week in a magical place. I am
not just on the threshold of a dream – I am living
my dream!
Everything in my fantasy is right here. I can
soak up the sun, or run on deserted beaches and
laugh out loud. The crew of my yacht feeds me
and treats me like Royalty. When the sun is out
there is never a dull moment. I can play with the
kids, or watch from my hammock on deck with
my drink in hand as one of the crew screams by
in the dinghy with the kids laughing and hanging
on for dear life to the tube he’s pulling. If we’re
lucky we’ll see a pod of whales or a group of frolicking dolphins. For sure we will see sea turtles
and millions of colorful reef fish. When the sun
Information
Sail or MotorYacht?
Some people prefer the opulence of a motor yacht
while others prefer the quiet and laid back style of
a sailing yacht
PHOTO: GARY BLAKELEY
THE GOAL:
On the Threshold of a Dream...
77
FOOD & WINE
Weisser Trüffel aus Alba-Italien
PHOTO: TORSTEN WENZLER
Black Perigord and White
Peidmont Truffles with
Tagliatelle pasta. Shallow dof
PHOTO: KELLY CLINE
Truffles
Both Black Périgord and White Alba truffles can transform what would otherwise be a mere
culinary masterpiece into a quasi mystical dining experience. Read as writer Scott Rose
reconfirms the true truffle as a delicacy singularly apposite to an unforgettable luxury charter.
For your next
yacht charter,
sniff out a
vessel with
a trufflesexperienced
chef
WRITTEN BY SCOTT ROSE
78
T
he Italian composer and bon vivant Gioachino
Rossini confessed having cried three times as
an adult: when they booed his first opera,
when he heard Paganini play violin, and when he
saw a truffled turkey fall overboard during a boating party. His emotional engagement with truffles
is shared by Alexandre Dumas, who called them le
saint des saints de la table, the holy of holies of the
table, and Collette, who said “if one can not have too
many truffles, one does without them.”
Lord Byron kept a truffle on his work desk,
because inhaling its pungent fragrance gave
him inspiration to produce verses of breathtaking genius. William Makepeace Thackeray, for his
part, was no stranger to the olfactory inebriation
occasioned by truffles. He wrote: “Presently, we
were aware of an odor gradually coming towards
us, something musky, fiery, savory, mysterious
– a hot drowsy smell, that lulls the senses, and yet
enflames them – the truffles were coming.”
Truffles are the fruiting body of underground
fungal colonies that live in a symbiotic relationship
with deciduous trees. The hyphae (filaments) of
the fungi infiltrate the root cells of the trees, setting
up an exchange of nutrients. Fungi, not capable of
photosynthesis, take their sugars from the host tree.
The tree, in return, receives through the hyphae
nutrients and water in quantities it could not take
in through its root hairs alone. These tree/fungus
relationships are referred to as mycorrhizae, from
the Greek for fungus, mykes, and root, rhiza.
The distinctive aroma of Truffles has evolved.
The underground growth is an adaptation to forest fires, droughts, and cold, which mushrooms
can not survive. As truffle spores are contained
entirely inside the fruiting body, they depend on
animals to dig them up, eat, and spread them.
That process is called mycophagy, again from
Greek, mykes meaning fungus and phagein to eat.
The strong scent allows animals to locate truffles.
The red-backed vole lives almost exclusively on
the delicacy, though admittedly one would not
actually care to just be a vole. More famously, pigs,
sows in particular, pursue truffles, as a chemical
compound in them is nearly identical to a male
pig pheromone that excites the lady swine.
Are truffles an aphrodisiac? Artists have often
picked up on the popular notion that they are.
Brillat-Savarin, who called truffles “the diamonds
of the kitchen,” makes the distinction that in
women they awake thoughts erotic and gourmet,
whereas in men, they awake thoughts gourmet
and erotic. More directly, addressing the question
of whether they are aphrodisiacal, he said that at
the very least, truffles make “women more willing,
and men more likable.” An anecdote related in his
Physiology of Taste has a married woman flirting
more than she ought to with a friend of her husband and then blaming her waywardness on the
presence of truffles.
The term truffle has been applied to various
types of tubers around the world but the only two
worthy of you and a charter yacht vacation are the
Black Périgord Truffle (Tuber melanosporum) and
the White Alba Truffle (Tuber magnatum). Charter
yacht chefs generally do have experience incorporating truffles into their menus, yet it is advisable to communicate your specific gustatory desires
to the crew through your broker in advance of a
vacation. What delights might you elect to enjoy
when anchored next December in Port St. Charles,
Barbados? Lobster consommé with black truffle and
foie gras could be the perfect opener to a main dish
of lamb shoulder with a truffle stuffing. For dessert,
a pineapple and black truffle salad, as described in
Proust’s À la Recherche du Temps Perdu.
The Black Périgord Truffle is the object of
a veritable cult in the area around Périgueux,
France. A truffle mass is celebrated in a church in
Richerenches on the third Sunday of each January,
la Saint-Antoine, named for the patron saint of
trufflers. La Confrérie des Chevaliers du Diamant
Noir, The Brotherhood of the Knights of the Black
Diamond, lead a festive procession through the
town prior to the mass. Carrying baskets copiously laden with truffles, they sport black suits,
capes, and hats as well as yellow neck ribbons with
medallions. The congregation offers its truffles
in lieu of monetary donations. The delicacies are
placed on the altar, blessed, and then after the
mass sold at an auction to benefit the church.
When phylloxera decimated French vineyards
in the 1800s, desperate farmers planted oaks; black
truffles abounded. Yet the First World War and
other influences reduced production in the twentieth century. Nowadays, most truffles are grown on
plantations. The roots of seedlings are treated with
spores and planted in locations as far and wide as
New Zealand and Tennessee. World-class chefs,
among them Daniel Boulud and Thomas Keller,
have endorsed certain of the Tuber melanosporum
from Tennessee as being “the real thing.”
White Alba truffles, by contrast, have yet to
be successfully cultivated. They are found in the
Piedmont region of Italy, with the finest coming
from the area around Alba. They grow beneath
oak, poplar, willow, and various other trees,
though never on maple or cedar. The coloration,
aroma, and flavor of a white truffle vary according
to the tree with which it carried on its mycorrhizal
relationship. If you sample two plates of crab meat
risotto, one showered with shavings of a white
truffle harvested from beneath a willow, the other
with white truffle from beneath an oak, you will
note that the oak truffle has a more pronounced
earthy muskiness while the willow truffle has a
more delicate perfume and flavor.
White Alba truffles are more costly than black
Périgord truffles, owing to their greater scarcity.
Each November in the castle of Grinzane Cavour,
the worldwide white truffle auction takes place
and is satellite-linked to points around the globe.
Robert De Niro and Sharon Stone compete with
investment bankers from Hong Kong for the prized
delicacies. During a charity phase of the 2006 auction, the property tycoon Gordon Wu acquired a
3.3 pound white Alba truffle for $160,406. Chef
Umberto Bombana of the Hong Kong Ritz-Carlton
used the amazing specimen for a five-course feast
hosted by Wu.
I spoke of truffles with Le Bernardin’s Chef Eric
Ripert. He grew up in Andorra; his mother would
bring truffles to their home from the market just
over the border in Seu d’Urgell, Spain. “When
shopping for fresh truffles,” he advises, “make
sure they are firm, aromatic, dry, and washed, not
covered with soil. Then proper storage is of the
essence. You may, of course, store a black truffle
with eggs, and produce exquisite omelets, as the
taste and smell of a ripe truffle are strong enough
to penetrate the shells. Storing truffles in rice will
make for a delicious risotto. But the best means
of storing fresh truffles is in cold water. They keep
well that way for about a week, not losing their
scent and taste into the water as they do into rice
or eggs.”
What does Chef Ripert think of using canned
black truffles during the off season? “Canned black
truffles can be excellent and may be used when
finding fresh ones is not possible. The can must
say ‘Tuber melanosporum,’ and you must buy
from a reputable company. The gold-standard for
the industry is Tebeyer.” (www.tebeyer.fr) Readers
please note that truffle fraud exists; conscienceless deceivers have all kinds of ruses for passing
off sham tubers. France’s National Institute for
Agricultural Research has a test that sequences
the ribosomal DNA of truffles and truffle-based
products to determine their authenticity, which
does help keep the market free of phonies, yet you
want to deal with trusted sources.
“Black truffle,” says Chef Ripert “is particularly
well absorbed by rich, starchy foods. That’s why
truffled mashed potatoes topped with lobster
works so well. But every root vegetable, without
exception, takes on the essence of black truffle
comme il faut. Salad greens, asparagus, and garlic
too are great truffle targets. Black truffle butter,
of course, is a perfect conduit, and truffle vinaigrettes are great for salads. I personally am not
very enthusiastic about truffle oils. Yet at Blue in
the Ritz-Carlton on Grand Cayman, we serve wonderful parmesan-truffle fries that do use truffle
oil.”
At Le Bernardin in Manhattan, Chef Ripert will
sometimes offer a seasonal truffle tasting menu.
According to the quality of a given year’s harvest,
the special menus could be offered for two weeks
or two months. In December, when black and
white truffle seasons overlap, diners might find
themselves luxuriating with dishes including, for
instance, sea scallops cooked in black truffle butter and showered with white truffle shards, and
risotto cooked with black truffle and garnished
with white shavings: things that John Lennon
might have included in his song Imagine.
Igor Stravinsky made a culinary analogy to
describe his creative process. “One has a nose.
The nose scents and it chooses. An artist is simply
a kind of pig snouting truffles.” When deciding on
the details of your next yacht charter, why not be
an artist and sniff out a vessel with a truffles-experienced chef? After all, December, when black and
white truffle seasons intersect, is an ideal time to
cruise the Caribbean. YVC
About the Writer
Scott Rose attended Harvard University at Master’s
level. He writes frequently on luxury markets and
travel. His work has appeared in such prestigious
venues as Bon Appetit and Power magazines.
scottcaliente@earthlink.net
79
TOYS
The latest blowup toys boaters
are going to be
dragging behind
their boats this
season
Fantastic Inflatables
“Faster, faster!” screamed Maria from a curtain of spray 100 feet behind the speeding jet-
boat. As I nudged the throttle forward, my aft-facing lookout exclaimed, “There she goes!”
just in time for me to jack my head around and catch sight of my wife getting air while clinging to the bright orange flying inflatable – yelling like a teenager at the top of her lungs.
T
WRITTEN BY DAN ARMITAGE
About the Writer
Dan Armitage is a full-time freelance boating and travel
writer based in Columbus, Ohio. A licensed captain, he
hosts a weekly radio show syndicated in 17 midwest
markets, contributes columns for several national boating
and outdoor publications, and is a popular speaker at
boat shows nationwide.
armitage@wowway.com
80
he high-tech Stearns “tube” my bride was
using to launch herself off the yacht tender’s
wake was a far cry from the donut-shaped
inflatable devices we dragged behind boats when
we were teens, which were basic black and serving
extended duty after a stint inside the tire of a truck
or tractor.
Anyone who has landed on the air valve or
worked up the dreaded raspberry rash while riding atop traditional rubber tire inner tubes will
appreciate how far today’s towables have evolved.
The variety of inflatables for use on and around
the water is astounding. In its current catalog,
Overton, a popular boating accessories mail order
retailer, dedicates no fewer than 18 pages to inflatable water toys. A full page following the blow-up
line-up for 2007 is required to illustrate all the
options for inflating and deflating the water toys,
most of which are directed at big boys (and their
friends).
The selection of inflatable playthings offered
this year include everything from traditional pool
rafts, lounges, and simple tubes designed to be
towed behind a boat, to radical multi-person,
high-speed towables that resemble race cars,
Aquaglide Multi-Sport
The only inflatable that doesn’t need a tow to get
underway, the Aquaglide Multi-Sport converts from a
traditional towable raft to a sail board and comes with
its own travel case for about $380. And optional $50 kit
allows you to convert it into a kayak.
rockets, chariots, fighter jets, and manta rays. In
fact, things recently went a little over the top in a
category of extreme towables referred to as “kite
tubes.” As their name implies, these combination
tube/kites assume aerodynamic characteristics
when they reach a certain speed, lifting off the
water and giving the rider an airborne ride. These
kite tubes were deemed a little too radical when
injuries began to mount up among those using
the kites and apparently getting too much air, and
one of the major manufacturers of the kite tubes
voluntarily pulled the most popular model off the
market.
What makes all these inflatables popular with
fun-loving ocean cruisers is their (relative) portability. Even fully deflated and packed tight, Rave
Watersports’ six-person Waterboggan would not
qualify as a carry-on, but most of the towable
water toys can be packed and checked as luggage
and any of them can be shipped ahead to a distant
port of call, ready for an air-fill and day full of fun
when you arrive.
To wet your whistle*, here are some of the latest blow-up toys boaters are going to be dragging
behind their boats this season.
Hydro
The Team Rave Hydro is a two-seater towable that’s
built for a pair of kids but comfortable for a single adult.
The racing hydrofoil look-alike retails for about $130.
Aqua Tower
Perhaps the most radical non-towing inflatable is the Aqua Tower from Rave Sports, a commercial grade
water playground that can be customized with up to two slides and complemented by Rave’s other radical
inflatable accessories. The Aqua Tower retails for about $4000 – complete with its own inflator!
Floating Playgrounds
Mega Wing
Connelly’s Mega Wing is a giant 8-foot-wide towable
tube that accommodates up to three riders and can be
converted into a relaxing lounge simply by flipping it
over. The asking price is about $200.
Not all modern inflatables are meant to be dragged behind a boat. For 2007 there are dozens of
models of blow-up “playgrounds” decked out with water slides, basketball hoops, trampolines, and
water rockets complete with boarding ladders – even one giant in the form of an alligator – that are
intended to be used in large swimming pools or protected lake and ocean waters.
Several models would make excellent distractions for fun-loving boaters of all ages. For example, the Rave Aqua Tower deployed and bobbing in the water off the swim platform of an anchored
yacht opens up all kinds of possibilities from relaxing to radical on-water activities – and a great
alternative to simply hanging out on deck.
Wet Whistle
Mambo Duo
The Mambo Duo design allows for sit-on-top or layon-top fun behind boats of all speeds, and will get air
when conditions are right even when two riders are
aboard. Look for the Mambo to sell for about $280.
Unless you have the lungs of Pamela Anderson, don’t even think about
trying to inflate any of these the old fashioned way. To keep from getting
blue in the face and saving your energy for the real fun to come,
make sure you have a power inflator aboard to both blow up
– and deflate – your towable toys. Most inflators are available in 12 volt and 120 models, some are portable, and all
offer fittings for most inflatable valves. Take it from someone
who knows: it doesn’t hurt to have extra inflator fittings and inflatable valves aboard in case one accidentally gets the deep six!
Safety
The Turbo Power Inflator/Deflator
Makes fast work of blowing up and sucking down your
water toys. It comes in both 120 volt and 12 volt models for about $40 and $50, respectively.
To keep your inflatable toy towing as safe as possible:
• Always have riders wear a PFD.
• When finished tubing, disconnect the line
• Don’t go more than 20 mph.
and stow it safely before operating the boat.
• Make sure the tube is properly inflated
• Do not tow empty tubes – they can fill with
— this is one way to get the best results
water and become anchors, possibly damagwithout the need to go faster
ing the tube or boat.
• Consider the conditions such as crowding,
• Store tubes out of the sun in a cool place,
wind, and chop.
letting a little air out so the tube doesn’t
• Obey local boating laws — most require an
expand and weaken. Just remember to add
observer in addition to the tow-boat driver.
air again before using.
• Use a 50- to 65-foot towline, and make sure
• Read the owner’s manual and manufacturit’s in good condition and beefy enough for
er’s warnings before using any tube.
the number of people being towed.
81
TOYS
Triton
And for towing a crowd and leaving a radical rooster-tail while doing so,
nothing beats the six-person Triton model from Rave Sports, for about $370.
Party Lounge
The Fiesta Island Party Lounge is a comfortable extension of a swim platform, anchored or tethered off the
stern of any boat. With armrests and cup holders for
eight, the comfy inflatable sells for about $300 from
SportsStuff.
Aqua Volleyball
For active inflatable fun, consider anchoring out Rave’s
Aqua Volleyball set, for about $350.
Source
All-Things Inflatable
The biggest problem facing first-time inflatable buyers is finding the right one for your
fun, as there are dozens of models on the
market. One of the broadest selections
offering the most detailed descriptions of
today’s towables is Overton’s (overtons.com;
800/334-6541), which does a brisk mail order
business in all things watersports and has a
comprehensive Web site and catalog featuring all the latest blow-up toys for boaters.
Here are some sources to allow you to
contact some of the major inflatable manufacturers directly:
• Aquaglide: aquaglide.net
• Connelly: connellyskis.com
• Gladiator: overtons.com
• MultiSport: overtons.com
• O’Brien: obrien.com
• Rave Sports: ravesports.com
• Sevylor: sevylor.com
• SportsStuff: sportsstuff.com
• Stearns: stearnsinc.com
82
Cabana Islander
For comfortable, relaxing fun afloat or ashore, it would
be hard to beat the inflatable Cabana Islander from
MultiSport, which comes complete with a floating
cooler and a convertible cabana top for shade for
about $250
Hero
Gladiator’s Hero offers traditional towable fun for up to
three thrill-seekers for under $200.
SportsStuff Sumo
Perhaps the only towable water toy you actually wear,
the SportsStuff Sumo is one-of-a-kind. Although it’s
hard to look dignified when being dragged behind a
boat wearing nothing but your swimming suit and the
Sumo, it’s a blast for about 110 bucks.
Kahuna
The new Kahuna from Aquaglide is an adaptable
inflatable that can be used for relaxed lounging or radical towing, thanks to a design that includes an adjustable backrest, hidden tow strap, and built-in beverage
holders and storage area. Retails for about $320.
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