Section 2 pgs 34-68

Nassau
Reefs and Walls
It doesn’t mat-
ter if you snorkel or dive, the possibilities are limitless. Shallow reefs
abound on all sides of the island.
You just can’t beat spots like Southwest Reef, Goulding Cay, Fish Hotel,
Barracuda Shoals, Pumpkin Patch or
Razorback. While some reefs are
simple patch reefs, many shallow
reefs tend to blend into a sloping
drop that abruptly plummets over
the wall and into the depths. Naming reefs is a little foolish as there
Sharks near the famous Wall.
are so many. The same holds true
for walls, especially when you start exploring the superb wall sites along the
east side of the Tongue of the Ocean. Say what your heart desires and trust
your dive operator to take you to the best spot accessible on any given day.
Sharks
This is one of the biggest attractions. The Bahamas are famed for
their shark dives and Nassau/New Providence is right at the forefront. If you
have not experienced this, the first time will be an eye-opener.
The Nassau shark dives take a couple of different forms. Some dive operators
utilize only chainmail arms and gloves on the feeders. These dives tend to be
orderly, relatively speaking. Some dive operators wear complete chainmail
shark suits. On these dives, the sharks tend to be more active and personal
with the feeders but still sidestep guests.
An extra special activity is the Shark Suit Adventure. You, too, can step into a
chainmail suit and soon have sharks feeding out of your hand. The adrenaline
rush of sharks bumping, brushing and bowling you over will keep you reeling
for days!
A different type of shark dive is Shark Buoy, a massive buoy anchored in
6,000 feet of water in the Tongue of the Ocean. Schools of open ocean sharks
called Silky Sharks tend to congregate under it, feeding on jacks and other fish.
Being suspended in the deep blue and having the sharks approach is a differ-
Nassau has a rich history, too.
ent and equally satisfying experience.
The bottom line on Nassau is this: If you want it, you can find it here. Visitors come from all over the world to sample Nassau’s pleasures. Dining can go
from conch salad on Arawak Cay or under the Paradise Island bridge to the
finest international cuisine possible. Water experiences can go from shallow
snorkeling to diving shallow reefs or walls to playing with high-energy sharks.
Nightlife can be either the glitter and glitz of the casinos or the glistening
sparkle of the stars and the moon off the sea. It‘s your choice—and you can’t
go wrong.
BAHAMAS DIVER
24
Out Islands of the
W
hen one thinks of the Out Islands of
The Bahamas, several images immediately spring to mind. These are long strands
of powder fine beaches sloping into an
ocean colored with a subtle yet dazzling palette of
blues, stretching to the horizon; settlements and villages populated by strongly rooted and honest people,
smiling at you; and a sense of tradition and history
stretching back to the edge of memory. If that representation is too prosaic for your taste, consider this.
There is one thing that seems to
25
BAHAMAS DIVER
In the Out Islands, adventures of every
kind await. And there is always the feeling you are one of the first to experience and view an area.
Text and Photography by Michael Lawrence
represent modern life: the stoplight. Search the Out Islands and you will find that in
one place only, Marsh Harbor in the Abacos. And, by the way, there is only that single
stoplight—throughout literally hundreds of Out Islands and cays!
The Out Islands, also commonly known as the Family Islands, are defined as every
island outside of the most populated islands in The Bahamas—Grand Bahama
(Freeport) and New Providence (Nassau). This has come about due to the fact that the
two big islands are the center of population and commerce and have been the focus of
international attention. However, the Out Islands hold the very essence of Bahamian
culture and life. With a population of only 50,000 spread through many occupied
islands, there is a sense of rootedness, calm and sincerity.
For divers, there is always the feeling you are one of the first to experience and view
an area. This holds true whether you are visiting an established dive destination—such
as Andros, San Salvador, the Abacos, Long Island, Eleuthera or Bimini—or being lucky
enough to find yourself in the truly unexplored islands, such as the Ragged Island,
the Inaguas or other untouched territory in the southern Bahamas. In the Out Islands,
you can be an adventurer by simply dropping in the water or just walking down a
Bahamas
truly deserted beach. This is the stuff of which dreams
are made. Let’s take a quick look at the Out Islands currently offering professional dive services to visitors.
The stuff of dreams
The Abacos
The islands of the Abacos rest on the east edge of the Little Bahama
Bank. Sophisticated yet quiet villages hold echoes of New England coastal communities—a fishing tradition, which has easily evolved over time into a solidly Bahamian
sense of life. Visit Green Turtle Cay or Man-O-War Cay and you will find yourself cast
back into a time when British Loyalists fled Revolutionary-era America to settle here.
Victorian-style filigrees adorn solid, hurricane-resistant, pastel-colored Bahamian homes
arrayed around curving, narrow lanes. This is prime territory for casual sailors looking
for easy island-to-island jumps. Directly exposed to the Atlantic, the reefs of the
Abacos take a different form than much of the Bahamas. Many sites are relatively shallow, 60 feet or less (with some exceptions). Subjected to slightly
cooler temperatures during the winter, they are just on the edge of what
hard corals require to survive. The general form of the fringing reefs is an
ornate, extinct coral base with a healthy top growth of Star and Elkhorn
corals. The base reef has been etched out by tidal flow to form a maze of
BAHAMAS DIVER
26
Out Islands
interconnecting tunnels and cathedral-like caverns.
Professional dive services are a given in the Abacos. Let’s
created the island’s name after an emigrating Bermudian
group, the Eleutherian Adventurers, became yet another
start in the north and go south. Walker’s Cay, the northern-
group of marine victims. They survived the disaster and
most island, has been an Out Islands diving tradition for
brought their sense of hope and faith to the island.
decades. In addition to myriad mazes of shallow and complex
Harbour Island, lying just off the northeast corner, is
caverns, an abundance of fish and some deeper sloping walls,
arguably the prettiest community in the islands. Quiet,
Walker’s features one of the most unique shark dives in the
quaint, small, fascinating and easily explored, it benefits
Bahamas. Groups of up to 150 sharks gather at the sound of
from the services of two professional dive operations. Both
the dive boat’s gunning engines in a coral arena to feed on
provide great dive services for snorkeling shallow reefs,
the “chumsicle,” a chunk of frozen fish (heads and all), while
checking out the wrecks, Current Cut (one of the most
divers mingle with them, much like an odd underwater cock-
exciting high current dives in the Caribbean) and a variety
tail party.
of deep reefs and walls.
Green Turtle Cay features tremendous shallow reefs as
well as superb fish life, one of the earmarks of the Abacos.
Andros
Dedicated snorkeling trips are available daily as are numer-
mented by an abundance of creeks, Andros is one of the
ous water and beach oriented distractions. The topside
Andros is home to several dive operations. Seg-
least-known islands, despite its proximity to the U.S. and
probably owing to its size. The richness of the island includes
atmosphere is fascinating as well.
Visit Marsh Harbor on Great Abaco for the “big city” feel
of the Abacos. Remember, they even have a stoplight.
There is a huge selection of sites for snorkeling and diving.
Maxi-Caves is an historically great spot for comfortable cavern dives in the company of friendly groupers and Barracuda.
all the cultural wealth of the remote Out Islands, a thick
marine community plus a geological definition of The
Bahamas. It is bordered by the third largest barrier reef in the
world, over 130 miles of continuous reef. Blue holes are an
integral part of the development of these islands and Andros
is blessed with possibly the largest numbers of these natural
phenomena.
Eleuthera & Harbour Island
Eleuthera is the pineapple
capital of The Bahamas (really, pineapples!). It stretches
north to south 112 miles. It is the home of the first republic
Defining the primary dive sites off Andros is virtually impossible because of the vast territory. Just let it be known that
one can partake of everything from shallow snorkeling adventures to walls to wrecks to big animal encounters to truly
in the “New World,” has more natural wrecks than any
edge oriented technical diving. You definitely can make your
other island, is sparsely populated and is both rugged and
choices here.
beautiful. The
Devil’s Back-
Bimini
bone, a shallow
closest and most accessible island of The Bahamas. It’s
and jagged reef
proximity has given the island a rich history, much of it
extending
couched in cloudy and mysterious practices perched at the
across the
edge of the law: These past practices run from wrecking
northern edge
(luring ships onto reefs and then plundering their cargo
of Eleuthera,
under the legal umbrella of maritime salvage laws) to rum-
has torn the
running and smuggling. It is all part of the enticing tapes-
bottom out of
try of Bimini.
more vessels
Sharks in Blue Water in the Out Islands.
27
BAHAMAS DIVER
Sitting only 48 miles from Miami, Bimini is the
Today, Bimini is relaxed and inviting and is a prime dive
than any other
destination. Two operations run daily trips to a variety of
reef in the
shallow reefs, a few great wrecks, and unusual sites, such as
nation. It also
what some believe to be the remains of the Fountain of
Youth and the remains of the ancient civilization of Atlantis.
Snorklers will find the Out Islands offer myriad
choices for up-close encounters with marine life.
Dolphin dives, riding the current over the edge of deep
walls, shark dives and more allow visitors to choose from a
broad menu of activities. The Sapona sits high and dry in
only 15 feet of water, creating a great snorkeling and diving site. Operators also explore the Bimini chain of islands
stretching south.
Berry Island
The Berry Islands are small and largely unde-
veloped but offer great island getaways. Activities include
snorkeling and beach relaxation along with deep-sea fishing and bonefishing, much like almost all of the Out
Islands. Shallow reefs border the island and sharply sloping
walls are found within minutes of the dock. Pilot Whales,
Manta Rays and dolphins are often seen offshore.
Cat Island
Cat Island features the highest peak in The
Bahamas, a whopping 207 feet. More than that, on this
island it is fun to get out on the road and explore, talk with
San Salvador
locals and enjoy the heart of The Bahamas. One of the
Guanahani to the Lucyans) is at the very heart of Bahamas
finest shallow Bahamian reefs, Dry Heads, is here, along
diving. The debate about the origin of wall diving (Was it at
with tons of other shallow and medium depth reefs, miles
Andros or at San Salvador?) goes on and on. The answer is
of walls and a couple of excellent wrecks.
as yet unresolved. San Sal has produced more published
San Sal (as it is now commonly called, or
underwater photos than any other destination in the world.
Exumas
The Exumas consist of an array of more than 350
Its walls are world-class. They are vertical and undercut
small islands and cays streaming down from just 35 miles
with striking topography, groupers so friendly you have to
south of New Providence to the anchor islands of Great
push them away, dependable visits by Scalloped and Great
and Little Exuma to the south. The northern islands present
Hammerheads—and offer so much more it is astounding. It
wonderful dive opportunities with an intriguing combina-
has a great shallow wreck in only 18 feet of water, plus
tion of walls and rich shallow reefs. The northern islands are
ruins of centuries old plantations, sea caves and miles of
the realm of live-aboards, and some New Providence oper-
absurdly perfect beaches. Oh, by the way, it is also the his-
ators offer trips here as well. Professional operations are
torically acknowledged first landfall of Christopher Colum-
located on Great Exuma offering trips to shallow reefs as
bus.
well as some perfectly defined Bahamas blue holes.
The Undiscovered Bahamas
Long Island
Home to several resorts and dive operators,
There are significant areas of
The Bahamas which have barely felt the touch of a human
Long Island is not only a great dive destination in its own
foot, a touch which is quickly washed away by the ocean
right, but is also a launching point for trips to uninhabited
and the shifting sands. The future will hold exploration of the
Conception Island (great wall dives!) and Rum Cay. It vies
Inaugas, the Plana Cays and Mayaguana as well as exploring
with San Salvador as the first landfall of Columbus and has a
the underwater territory of other populated but as yet
monument on the northern end commemorating the event.
unmapped areas of the Ragged Islands, the Crooked Islands,
Long Island has a huge number of shallow dive sites, some
Hogsty Reef and other territory. The Out Islands offer as rich
deeper sites, the deepest recorded blue hole in the Bahamas
a marine nation as any found on the planet. Visit and be part
(over 600 feet!) and a very nice wreck to the north.
of both the present and the future.
BAHAMAS DIVER
28
T
Ten Reasons to
Take the
Whole Family
aking your family on a dive and snorkel trip can be an adven-
ture in itself. Choose the wrong place and you may end up yearning
for the good old days BTK (Before The Kids). On the other hand, a
family trip to the right place is an incomparable joy. The difference is
in the destination, and it’s hard to beat The Bahamas for family fun.
Lifetime Family Adventures
The Bahamas are a
Alternate Activities
Only adults seem content with
great place to discover the wonders of the ocean with
the eat, sleep and dive routine. Kids need a whole lot
your children. You can find adventures here that will pro-
more to be happy. Fortunately, The Bahamas topside are
vide a lifetime of inspiration and open new horizons for
just as much fun as The Bahamas underwater. You’ll find
young minds.
family fun in kayaks, personal watercraft, sail boats, fishing
trips and harbor tours. Ashore, you can rent bicycles, hike,
Safe Environment
In The Bahamas, you can relax on
catch a show, listen to live music, eat at waterfront restau-
the beach without the worry of unwelcome solicitations or
rants or even get your hair braided. In Nassau and
dangerous surf. The only protection you will need will be
Freeport, children’s activities rival many theme parks, but
from the tropical sun.
with a distinctly island style.
29
BAHAMAS DIVER
Text and Photography by Bill Harrigan
Easy Access
One of the beauties of The Bahamas for family vacations is
simply the convenience. Access is easy from almost anywhere and birth certificates with a photo ID are accepted for entry in lieu of passports. Bahamas dol-
Where to go for
Family Diving
lars and U.S. dollars are interchangeable and the electricity is the good old 110
volt standard.
Hotels are nice, but larger families need more than one bedroom. That’s
when the choice of two-, three- or even four-bedroom bungalows, offered by
many Bahamas resorts, makes perfect sense.
Family Discounts
Remember how cheap it was to travel BTK? Now, even
a family night at the movies can run into three figures. Fortunately, family packages and discounts abound in The Bahamas. Just a few of the islands with oper-
There are many options
for family diving in The
Bahamas. To find out
more, contact any of the
Bahamas Diving Association members listed on
the BDA Web site at
www.bahamasdiving.com
ations catering to families include Andros, the Abacos, Bimini, Exuma, Grand
Bahama, Long Island and New Providence. Live-aboards also offer family discounts.
Baby-sitting Services
It’s ironic, but one of the pleasures of vacation-
ing with your children is getting away from them for awhile. That’s easy in
The Bahamas, where many resorts offer baby-sitting services. The cost of the
service is modest, in some cases even complimentary.
New Skills
If you’ve been thinking that a dive vacation would be the per-
fect time to introduce your child to your favorite sport, The Bahamas are an
excellent choice. Instruction is easy to set up wherever you go in The
Bahamas, including every specialty course but ice diving. Resort scuba courses are available everywhere in the islands.
Child Friendly Staff
Kids have more fun, and their parents relax more,
when the staff members know how to put them at ease. Bahamas dive operators
take a special delight in sharing the beauty of their islands and their ocean with
children. In addition, many of the resorts and operations are owned and operated by families with children of their own, so they have a first-hand knowledge of
children’s needs.
Old Standbys
The Bahamas can also deliver the old familiar standbys. Got
to have a brand name burger or pizza? No problem on New Providence or
Grand Bahama. Miss that special TV show? Cable or satellite TV is commonly
Photo/Michael Lawrence
available throughout the islands. Can’t live without computer games? The
Bahamas are plugged in. Some days all you need for family fun is a pool and
Bahama sunshine.
Year-round Fun
One of the best things about a family dive trip to The
Bahamas is that you can take it anytime. When the driveway is knee deep in
snow, the sun is shining and the water is warm in The Bahamas. If you have to
travel in the summer when the kids are out of school, well the sun is still shining
and the water is still warm. Come on over!
BAHAMAS DIVER
30
Text and Photography by Rick Frehsee
Walls and
Blue Holes
W
alls and blue holes are simultaneously
special, and widespread, dive experiences in The Bahamas. Walls, the most
generally dramatic expression of the
coral reef, will at times plummet directly into the great
trenches, thousands of feet deep, that line the archipelago. Blue holes, while not exclusively a phenomenon of The Bahamas, are found here in a greater
number than anywhere on earth. And, The
Photo/Bill Harrigan
Bahamas has the only known tidal blue holes in the
world. Together, the walls and blue holes turn The
Bahamas dive experience on its side.
Blue holes are a phenomenon created during several
ice ages, when sea levels were 400 feet lower and The
Bahamas was a great exposed limestone platform.
31
BAHAMAS DIVER
Photo/Bill Harrigan
Vertical Descents, Decorated
Caverns—Turning The Bahamas
Dive Experience on its Side!
Bahamas walls offer breathtaking vistas, populated by colorful marine life. Whether inland or submerged in the
sea, the incredible blue holes are the result of centuries of freshwater dissolving and redepositing limestone.
BAHAMAS DIVER
32
Walls and Blue Holes
Centuries of acidic rain water etched into the vast bank, creating circular depressions and other magnificent formations.
Today, most blue holes are located in shallow water on the
Great and Little Bahama Banks, while others are inland pools.
WALL DIVING IN THE BAHAMAS
Walls are found throughout The Bahamas and their profiles
range from those that end at sand bottoms 60 to 100 feet
deep, to seemingly infinite vertical descents. It is along these
escarpments of the deep reef that the majesty of coral spires
and the magnificence of sponges is fully realized. Seafans, bryozoans, seawhips and Black Coral mix and mingle with the
sponges, creating a garden carpet of life. More color and the
addition of motion is provided from solitary and schooling reef
fish. Every wall is similar, yet different: Profile, shape, size and
predominant colors vary from site to site. The following walls
are among the most stunning, popular and accessible in The
Bahamas:
The Great Lucaya or Grand Bahama Wall
The southern coast of Grand Bahama Island is lined with a
continuous fringing reef and drop-off with hundreds of wall
sites featuring caves, caverns and swim-throughs. The top of
the wall usually begins in about 80 feet of water.
Lyford Cay Wall
Off the northwest coast of New Providence Island (Nassau) is
a famed coral cliff beginning in 35 feet of water.
Blue holes are a phenomenon
created during several ice
ages, when sea levels were
400 feet lower and The
Bahamas was a great exposed
limestone platform. Centuries
of acidic rain water etched
into the vast bank, creating
circular depressions of various sizes and other magnificent formations.
Southwest Wall
Facing the Tongue of the Ocean on the New Providence side is a coral
canyon several miles in length. The area adjacent to the popular shark dive
sites is particularly colorful, with many sponge decorated pinnacles protruding
from the wall.
The Andros Wall
The “greatest of all Bahama walls” is found at Andros, the largest island in
the chain. The Andros Wall offers uncountable sites that display mountains and
canyons of every shape and size.
The Bimini Wall
From the Biminis southward is a nearly continuous wall facing the Gulf
Stream. The North Bimini Wall is just south of the entrance channel to North
33
BAHAMAS DIVER
Bimini and begins in 120 feet of water. This is generally a drift dive for very
experienced divers. To the south are numerous walls, such as those at South
Cat Cay Wall, Victory Cays Drop-off and Riding Rock Wall—all of these are fish
filled spectacles that begin in 30 to 90 feet.
The Exuma Wall
Directly off Highbourne Cay is a drop-off that faces the Exuma Sound. This
is a vertical wall, 75 feet deep.
Chub Cay Wall
A continuous drop-off runs from the southwest tip of Chub Cay to Whale
Cay, in the Berry Islands. These sites offer a variety of wall formations.
YOUR EXPERT GUIDES TO
BAHAMA WALLS AND BLUE
HOLES
For a professional introduction to blue hole diving, or to
explore any of the fabulous
Bahama walls, use this article
to select the area of The
Bahamas you are interested in.
Then contact the dive operators located in that area, as
listed on the Bahamas Diving
Association Web site at
www.bahamasdiving.com for
more information.
Riding Rock Wall
Dozens of popular wall sites are located along the western coast to the
southern tip of San Salvador Island in the south-central Bahamas.
Conception Island Wall
Here is one of the most dramatic and colorful walls in all of the archipelago. The wall begins in 45 to 60 feet of water, its entire length decorated
with spectacular sponge and coral formations.
DIVING THE BLUE HOLES
Blue holes that are accessible to divers are sprinkled throughout The
Bahamas. Some are cavern diving experiences and others are mile-long
labyrinths, off limits to sport divers. Access to blue hole diving varies; some
are controlled and monitored by the Bahamas National Trust. Entry to others is policed by local organizations.
Although some unique organisms are found in blue holes, the attraction
here is chiefly geological—experiencing a spectacular visual realm seldom
seen by other human beings. The greatest concentration of blue holes is
found both inland and in the shallows of Andros Island, where more than
50 blue holes have been recorded. Other concentrations of blue holes
occur on and off Grand Bahama Island (Ben’s Cavern, for example), the
Exumas and Eleuthera. One of the world’s deepest blue holes is located off
Long Island and is surrounded on three sides by land. A few well-known
blue holes are located off Nassau, the Biminis and scattered throughout the
Out Islands.
www.nealwatson.com
BAHAMAS DIVER
34
Text and Photography by Bill Harrigan
A
good wreck is a great dive, whether you have ten dives
under your weightbelt or a thousand. Why do we find
wrecks so fascinating? Is it the history they reveal, or the
tragedy they conceal? Or is it simply the excitement of
seeing a familiar shape appear like a faded blue apparition as you
descend toward the bottom? There is something strangely compelling about passing beneath the encrusted propeller of a large
wreck or swimming through the dark passages of her interior. Whatever the reason, wrecks have a special appeal of their own, and
nowhere is this more thrillingly apparent than in The Bahamas. While
the wrecks in these islands offer myriad opportunities for adventure,
they can generally be separated into three categories: shallow wrecks,
wrecks in moderate depths and deep wrecks. We’ll highlight just a
few of the best in each category for you here.
Rapture of the
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BAHAMAS DIVER
Wrecks
Fascinating at Any Depth
Rapture of the Wrecks
SHALLOW WRECKS
The shallow wrecks of The Bahamas are great fun because you don’t have to
worry about your bottom time. In fact, many of them are so shallow they can
be easily explored by snorkelers. Shallow wrecks also benefit from having lots of
sunlight, which allows coral to grow on them quickly and attracts lots of fish.
The abundant sunlight splashes them in rainbow hues of yellow, red and purple,
too. You don’t need the aid of a powerful dive light or strobe to boost the colors of a shallow Bahama wreck.
The Sugar Wreck, off the West End of Grand Bahama, is an all-time favorite
of many divers because of its abundant fish life. Congregations of snappers,
grunts, wrasse, gobies, angelfish and parrotfish are everywhere on the wreck.
The remains of an old sailing ship that grounded many years ago, the Sugar
Wreck is only 20 feet deep.
The Hesperus is another fascinating shallow wreck. An oasis of life on the vast
sandy plain of the Grand Bahama Bank, the Hesperus is also packed with fish,
but it is better known for the huge Loggerhead Turtles that shelter within its
planks and plates at night. Maximum depth on the Hesperus is about 15 feet.
The wreck of the Sapona has been a sailor’s navigational landmark for many
years, because it sits high out of the water south of Bimini. It’s also one of the
The giant propeller of Theo’s Wreck, off
Grand Bahama Island.
best snorkel and shallow dive wrecks in the world. Surrounded by less than 20
feet of clear water, the Sapona treats her visitors to a close-up viewing of hun-
Whatever the reason,
wrecks have a special
appeal of their own, and
nowhere is this more
thrillingly apparent than in
The Bahamas. While the
wrecks in these islands
offer myriad opportunities
for adventure, they can
generally be separated
into three categories:
shallow wrecks, wrecks in
moderate depths and deep
wrecks.
dreds of reef fish.
MODERATE DEPTH WRECKS
The area south of New Providence has been the setting for numerous Hollywood movies, including several James Bond films, and a number of wrecks were
placed on the bottom as underwater sets. The framework that passed as the Vulcan Bomber from Thunderball and the vessel Tears of Allah from Never Say Never
Again are still popular dive sites. Other wrecks here include the Willaurie, a 130foot freighter sunk in 55 feet of water in 1989, and the Sea Viking, a 60-foot
commercial fishing boat sitting upright in 65 feet. Because the shark feeding
dives take place nearby, sharks always seem to be roaming two of the New
Providence wrecks, the David Tucker II, an ex-defense force vessel sunk in 50 feet
at Shark Wall, and the Bahama Momma, sunk in 1995 in only 40 feet at the Runway.
De La Salle is a 120-foot island freighter that has been on the bottom off Paradise Island for about a decade. The ship sits upright in 65 feet, like a ghost ship
steering a long forgotten course. Not too far away, the shallow section of the
Mahoney can be found in about 40 feet of water. After a century on the bottom,
the boiler, keel and plating are all that remain of this steamship.
The area south of Grand Bahama is also rich with wrecks. The Jose is a 40-foot
ocean-going tugboat that has been on the bottom in 65 feet for about ten
37
BAHAMAS DIVER
Upside down, right side up, over or through, Bahamas wreck diving is always a thrill.
B AHAMAS S PORT D IVING W RECKS
NAME OF WRECK
TYPE OF WRECK
DEPTH
LOCATION
Theo’s Wreck
YEAR SUNK
REMARKS
238-foot freighter
100 feet
Grand Bahama
1982
on port side
Dorothy H.
ocean tug
100 feet
Walker’s Cay
--
upright
Esther K.
ocean tug
100 feet
Walker’s Cay
--
Comberbach
freighter
100 feet
Long Island
1985
Bimini Barge
barge
95 feet
Bimini
late 1980s
Ana Lise
150-foot supply ship
90 feet
Paradise Island
1990
Helena C.
passenger vessel
90 feet
Paradise Island
1991
Bahama Shell
90-foot oil tanker
90 feet
Paradise Island
1991
Bimini Trader
barge
85 feet
Bimini
1992
upside down
Lady Moore
supply boat
80 feet
Andros
--
upright
The Barge
landing craft
70 feet
Andros
1970
Marion
construction barge
70 feet
Andros
1975
Caribe Breeze
200-foot tanker
70 feet
New Providence
2000
Jose
steel tug
65 feet
Grand Bahama
1986
upright
Sea Viking
60-foot fishing boat
65 feet
New Providence
1997
upright
De La Salle
120-foot freighter
65 feet
Paradise Island
1987
upright
Austin Smith
90 foot cutter
60 feet
Exumas
1996
upright
B.J.
passenger vessel
55 feet
Paradise Island
1994
on side, split in half
Willaurie
130-foot freighter
55 feet
New Providence
1989
upright
Laura
40-foot supply boat
50 feet
Grand Bahama
1997
upright
Badger
Burma Oil tugboat
50 feet
Grand Bahama
1997
upright
Panther
65-foot tugboat
50 feet
Cat Cay
1984
on starboard side
Ethridge
steel car ferry
50 feet
Grand Bahama
--
upright, with truck
David Tucker II
patrol boat
50 feet
New Providence
1997
upright, clifton wall
Wreck on the Wall
wooden sailing ship
50 feet
New Providence
--
very torn up
Edmond Williams
patrol boat
50 feet
New Providence
1997
upright, shark wall
Finwick Stirrup
patrol boat
50 feet
New Providence
1997
research dive site
Violet Mitchell
freighter
45 feet
Abacos
1988
Tears of Allah
92-foot supply boat
45 feet
New Providence
--
The Pretender
steel hull
45 feet
Grand Bahama
--
upside down
Alma B.
120-foot supply boat
40 feet
Cat Cay
1999
upside down
San Jacinto
1847 steamer
40 feet
Abacos
1867
Bahama Momma
supply boat
40 feet
New Providence
1995
upright
Vulcan Wreck
metal framework
40 feet
New Providence
--
movie set mockup
Cessna Wreck
light plane
40 feet
New Providence
--
Mahoney
steamship
30 feet
Paradise Island
late 1800s
Airplane Wreck
light plane
25 feet
Water Cay
--
Sapona
concrete vessel
20 feet
south of Bimini
1927
Sugar Wreck
sailing ship
20 feet
west of Grand Bahama
--
Hesperus
cement barge
15 feet
north of Bimini
--
Loggerhead turtles
Anchor Wreck
--
15 feet
Gingerbread Grounds
--
two large anchors
upright, bus in hold
with crane and boom
“James Bond” wreck
boiler, keel, plating
partially out of water
Above left: De La Salle is a 120 foot
freighter sunk in 65 feet of water off Paradise Island. Above: Divers observe black
coral inside Theo’s Wreck.
years. Situated among the coral heads of the reef, the Jose makes a nice allaround dive. A Burma Oil tugboat called Badger and a 40-foot steel supply
boat called Laura were sunk in 1997. Both sit upright in about 50 feet. The
upside down hull of The Pretender is another Grand Bahama wreck in moderately deep water, lying on the sand in 45 feet.
The Abacos have a couple of nice medium depth wrecks in the Violet
Mitchell, at around 45 feet, and the steamer San Jacinto. Built in 1847, the San
Jacinto was the first U.S. built steamship. It sank in 1867 and the remains lie in
about 40 feet of water.
DEEP WRECKS
What’s the draw of deep wrecks? Physical integrity, for starters. Wrecks that
lie deeper than 90 or a 100 feet are protected from the destructive surge of
most storms, so they tend to be more intact than shallower wrecks. Scale is
another reason deeper wrecks are appealing. When the water is exceptionally
clear, as in The Bahamas, there is nothing like seeing a large wreck from a distance. As you swim toward it, the details become clearer and the wreck seems
to get larger. Theo’s Wreck, off Grand Bahama, is an excellent example.
Sunk in 1982, this 238-foot freighter is lying intact on her port side in 100
feet. Most days you can see the hull as soon as you put your face in the water.
Twenty feet down you can make out the wheelhouse, the massive open holds
and the point of the bow. Up close, the ship seems huge. The cavernous cargo
hold is encrusted with sponges and black corals, and hosts a variety of fish.
Walkers Cay has two deep wrecks, both ocean-going tugboats that were
sunk in about 100 feet of water. Named Esther K. and Dorothy H., they are perfectly set up for sport diving.
The freighter Comberbach, complete with an old bus in the forward cargo
hold, sits upright on the sand in 100 feet of water off Long Island. This is an
excellent wreck for wide angle photography.
You get three for one at the Shipyard, a remarkable wreck site off Paradise
Island. Three vessels lie on the bottom here, a 150-foot supply vessel called
Ana Lise, a 95-foot passenger ship called Helena C., and an oil tanker called the
Bahama Shell. All three have been on the bottom for about ten years and are
nicely encrusted. Like a graveyard, it’s spooky, but somehow alluring.
39
BAHAMAS DIVER
Dive The Islands of The Bahamas
Reefs, Wrecks, Walls, Sharks, Dolphins... Our 700 islands could change you
forever. Thousands of Dive Sites only minutes from Miami. Find our more
from any of our dive operators.
w w w. B a h a m a s D i v i n g . c o m
Contact our dive operators for booking information.
Bahamas Diving Association P.O. Box 21707 • Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33335-1707
1-800-866-DIVE • Intl. 954-236-9292 • info@bahamasdiving.com
Photo Credits: Stephen Frink/Waterhouse. © 2006 BDA/CLINE. BD06 †U.S. Customs
and Immigration Preclearance Services Available from Nassau & Freeport. Effective
1/1/07, all US Visitors will require a passport.
BAHAMAS DIVER
53
Text and Photography by Bill Harrigan
Exploring
The Bahamas
by Live-Aboard
I
f you haven’t tried live-aboard diving in The Bahamas, you’re missing
the best thing to happen since the invention of scuba. Bahamas live-
aboard diving is absolute convenience. You set up your dive gear once,
then you only handle it when you’re actually diving. No lugging gear
from hotel to van to boat. No jockeying for space on a crowded bench and no
long, uncomfortable ride out to the dive site and back. Of course, there is also
the pleasure of diving away from the crowds. Live-aboards around the world
take you to the outer reaches, where few divers go—and that’s particularly true
in the islands of The Bahamas.
You can dive your buns off on a Bahamas live-aboard. Three to five dives a
day are the norm, and some boats offer even more chances to get wet. But, if
you are the less enthusiastic half of a diving couple, you don’t have to go on
every dive. In fact, many divers on a live-aboard make only one or two dives a
day. Even non-divers go on these trips and have fun. There is plenty to do,
including shore excursions, watersports and just relaxing.
The food served on Bahamas live-aboards is both a blessing and a curse. It’s
a blessing because it’s usually fantastic. It’s a curse for the same reason! Don’t
go on a live-aboard if you expect to lose weight. The food is great, there is lots
of it and your appetite will be ravenous.
41
BAHAMAS DIVER
Superb
With the wind in her sails, a trip
just starts off Exuma. Below: Liveaboard guests kayak south of
Bimini (left) and snorkel off Rum
Cay (right).
Diving and Absolute Convenience
Bahamas
T
oday, more and more people are rediscovering the simple joys of snorkeling and free diving, and I can’t think of any destination more capable of
satisfying everyone, from the casual snorkeler to the serious free diver, than
The Bahamas. The reasons are numerous. Let’s start with the very quality
of the water. An unmatched clarity combines with a striking spectrum of blues to
create a highly attractive picture. The shallows sparkle with aquamarine and azure
highlights bouncing off the white sand bottom. This gorgeous water is a shining
blanket overlaying thousands of square miles of lush coral reefs.
43
BAHAMAS DIVER
Text and Photography by Michael Lawrence
Virtually every professional dive
operator offers dedicated snorkeling
trips, so the questions come down
the east side, shares some fine reef
These areas are both live-aboard ter-
structures.
ritory.
South of Eleuthera is Cat Island,
to these: What style of snorkel adven-
home to Dry Heads, one of the
tures do you want, and where do
healthiest shallow reefs in the islands.
you want to go?
Long Island offers a huge number
In The Bahamas, every single island
of snorkeling possibilities. Shallow
Just north of Bimini, a pod of resident Spotted Dolphins is making
itself accessible on an almost daily
basis.
The islands of New Providence
is surrounded by shallow reefs, many
reefs are found right offshore, as well
(Nassau) and Grand Bahama
of which reach to within a few feet of
as at boat-accessible sites.
(Freeport), offer tremendous snorkel-
the surface. Farther out, this same
The Exumas have some of the
ing opportunities along with an infra-
theme continues, with tens of thou-
thickest concentrations of shallow
structure that makes access a breeze.
sands of shallow water sites on the
reefs
Off New Providence, snorkelers can
banks peppered with coral heads
in The Bahamas, as well as shallow
and reefs.
blue holes.
In the Abacos, off the east side of
the Little Bahamas Bank, the primary
There are other important snorkeling islands. Bimini features fine shal-
come face-to-face with sharks while
on the surface. A thrilling and unique
experience.
Grand Bahama has always been a
reef structures are seldom deeper
low reefs, one great shallow wreck,
classic snorkeling destination. There
than 30 to 40 feet. There are open
the Sapona, and big animal experi-
are even marked snorkeling trails off
cavern systems and excellent shallow
ences.
wrecks.
Then there are the islands of the
Bordering the north edge of
the West End, at Old Bahama Bay.
One not-to-be-missed adventure is
Bimini chain to the south and the
the Dolphin Experience. Visitors have
Eleuthera is the infamous Devil’s
Berry Islands (particularly Chub Cay)
a choice of snorkeling either in an
Backbone, a jagged line of shallow
to the north of Bimini. There is excel-
by Snorkel
inland bay or in the open ocean with
tame dolphins.
Andros is also popular with
snorkelers, offering shallow reefs,
glimpses over the deep wall, inland
Intimate Adventures
reef that has came as an unwelcome
lent snorkeling off San Salvador, too.
blue holes and occasional dolphin
surprise to many mariners. Today it is
Snorkelers can also get in on The
a treasure for snorkelers. It offers tons
Bahamas dolphin and shark action.
This has just been a taste of the
of fish, lots of other marine life and a
At Walker’s Cay, snorkelers can view
snorkeling opportunities available in
fascinating glimpse into history.
up to 200 sharks at a time from the
The Bahamas. To find out more, con-
surface or dive down to interact with
tact any of the dive operators on the
Off the west side of Eleuthera is
one of the most distinctive snorkel
sites in The Bahamas—Current Cut.
them.
Dependable snorkeling encounters
Here, a relatively narrow cut runs
with Atlantic Spotted Dolphins have
from the bank to the outer waters.
been occurring at White Sand Ridge,
The current screams through this cut,
northwest of Grand Bahama, for
creating a perfect feeding ground for
decades. It’s the same in the south-
marine animals. Harbour Island, off
ern Bimini chain, near Orange Cay.
encounters.
Bahamas Diving Association website
at www.bahamasdiving.com. Better
yet, pack a set of snorkeling gear and
“go Bahamas.”
BAHAMAS DIVER
44
Bahamas Diving
Association Members
BAHAMAS DIVE OPERATORS
AND LIVE-ABOARDS
BLUE
HOLES
ABACO
Abaco Dive Adventures
Brendal’s Dive Center International
Dive Abaco!
Dive Guana
Froggies Out Island Adventures
Treasure Divers
ANDROS
Coral Caverns Dive Resort
Seascape Inn
Small Hope Bay Lodge
Tiamo Resorts
DOLPHINS
WRECKS
WEB SITE
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954-681-4382
242-365-4411
800-247-5338
242-365-5178
242-366-0431
800-327-1584
www.abacodivers.com
www.brendal.com
www.diveabaco.com
www.diveguana.com
www.froggiesabaco.com
www.treasure-divers.com
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800-327-8150
242-369-0342
800-223-6961
954-242-8171
www.coralcavernsresort.com
www.seascapeinn.com
www.smallhope.com
www.tiamoresorts.com
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800-348-4644
800-848-4073
www.biminiundersea.com
www.scubabimini.com
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242-342-3053
242-342-7050
www.greenwoodbeachresort.com
www.hawks-nest.com
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877-252-3594
242-333-2080
www.oceanfox.com
www.valentinesdive.com
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242-336-2893
www.exumascuba.com
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242-373-6775
242-373-4014
800-992-3483
800-327-8150
www.grandbahamascuba.com
www.sunnodysseydivers.com
www.unexso.com
www.xanadudive---.com
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800-663-7090
242-338-0011
800-426-0466
www.capesantamaria.com
www.reeldivers.com
www.stellamarisresort.com
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EXUMA
Exuma Scuba Adventures
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GRAND BAHAMA/FREEPORT
Grand Bahama Scuba
Sunn Odyssey Divers
UNEXSO
Xanadu Undersea Adventures
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LONG ISLAND
Cape Santa Maria Beach Resort
Reeldivers at Grotto Bay
Stella Maris Resort Club
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BAHAMAS DIVER
PHONE
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ELEUTHERA/HARBOUR ISLAND
Ocean Fox Diving
Valentine’s Dive Center
45
WALLS
& REEFS
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BIMINI
Bimini Undersea
Scuba Bimini
CAT ISLAND
Greenwood Dive Center
Hawk’s Nest Resort & Marina
SHARKS
■
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Walker’s Cay
•
Grand
Bahama
Abaco
Atlantic Ocean
FLORIDA
•
Bimini
Berry Islands
Chub Cay
•
New Providence
Eleuthera
Cat Island
Andros
San Salvador
Rum Cay
Great Exuma
Samana Cay
Long Island
Mayaguana
Crooked Island
THE ISLANDS OF
The Bahamas
Little Inagua
Great Inagua
UP-TO-DATE BAHAMAS DIVING INFO & OPERATIONS: 800-866-DIVE OR VISIT: www.bahamasdiving.com
BAHAMAS DIVE OPERATORS
AND LIVE-ABOARDS (Cont.)
BLUE
HOLES
SHARKS
NEW PROVIDENCE/NASSAU
Bahama Divers
Stuart Cove’s Dive Bahamas
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SAN SALVADOR
Riding Rock Resort
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LIVE-ABOARDS
Aqua Cat Cruises
Blackbeard’s Cruises
Cat Ppalu Cruises
Explorer Ventures Liveaboard Diving
Juliet Sailing and Diving
Nekton Diving Cruises
Ocean Explorer Charters, Inc.
Sea Dragon (Exuma specialist)
The Dream Team, Inc.
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GENERAL BAHAMAS TRAVEL INFO
NEAL WATSON, BDA PRESIDENT
STUART COVE, BDA VICE-PRESIDENT
PRESS/INDUSTRY CONTACT
DOLPHINS
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WRECKS
WALLS
& REEFS
PHONE
WEB SITE
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800-398-DIVE
888-35-SHARK
www.bahamadivers.com
www.stuartcove.com
800-272-1492
www.ridingrock.com
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888-327-9600
800-327-9600
800-327-9600
800-322-3577
866-5-JULIET
800-899-6753
866-373-5639
954-522-0161
888-277-8181
www.aquacatcruises.com
www.blackbeard-cruises.com
www.catppalu.com
www.explorerventures.com
www.sailjuliet.com
www.nektoncruises.com
www.OceanExplorerCharters.com
www.seadragonbahamas.com
www.advdive.com
800-BAHAMAS
800-327-8150
888-35-SHARK
972-267-6700
www.bahamas.com
www.nealwatson.com
www.stuartcove.com
www.williamcline.com
BAHAMAS DIVER
46
Will Chan
g
n
i
v
i
ge You
D
Forever
Our
Dive The Islands of The Bahamas
w w w. B a h a m a s D i v i n g . c o m
Contact our dive operators for booking information.
Bahamas Diving Association P.O. Box 21707 • Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33335-1707
1-800-866-DIVE • Intl. 954-236-9292 • info@bahamasdiving.com
Photo Credits: Stephen Frink/Waterhouse. © 2006 BDA/CLINE. BD06 †U.S. Customs
and Immigration Preclearance Services Available from Nassau & Freeport. Effective
1/1/07, all US Visitors will require a passport.