triumph - 6

TR6 & TR250
6-PACK
T R I U M P H
The Magazine for the TR6 & TR250 Car Club • Volume XXXI Issue 2 • SUMMER 2013
Route 66 • Door Panel Fix • Fuel Injection
CONTENTS
Gives You a Hand
8
12
SEE MORE THAN 150 TECH VIDEOS
AT MOSSMOTORS.COM/MOSSTV
16
Clutch Slave Cylinder - How to Bleed
20
“Had my clutch working within 10 minutes of
watching your video. Thanks for your help.”
Carburetor Floats - 3 Things that can go Wrong
“Spot on Video. My old Mini started leaking
FEATURES
Member Profiles
8
Paul Armstrong, Steve Howitt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Jeremy Chinn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Greg Marsh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-PACK
T R I U M P H
TR6 & TR250
MOSSMOTORS.COM/MOSSTV
The Magazine for the TR6 & TR250 Car Club • Volume XXXI Issue 2 • SUMMER 2013
TRavels
fuel. Followed instructions and cleaned valve.
Getting Some Kicks On Old Route 66 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Now running sweet.”
Installing Stainless Steel Brake Hoses
Soldering Wire Connection
“I am a Datsun guy and even though you
“I would have done this completely wrong if I
guys cater to British Cars, I find a lot of
didn’t see this, thanks.”
22
Tech & Resto
16
Velcro Door Panel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Fawkes, You Only Live Twice (Part 2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TRansformers
your videos useful.”
Fuel Injecting a TR6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Batteries - Why Charging and Maintaining is so Important
“Your videos have always been first
class, and as a mechanic I enjoy
them because I know they are
factual and true...”
800-667-7872 /// MOSSMOTORS.COM
12
Calendar Car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Route 66 • Door Panel Fix • Fuel Injection
On The Cover
13 6-PACK.02.08.indd 1
13-10-03 9:49 PM
Nothing at all to do with this issue, just a
gratuitous photo of a great new 250 to come
onto the scene. Congratulations to Alan
Atkinson on a wonderful concept and an
expertly executed result. One day we hope to
read how he did it!.
Photo: by Alan Atkinson
6-PACK Magazine
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DEPARTMENTS
Editor’s Workbench . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Driver’s Seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Club and Chapter News . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Surrogate Buyer’s Network . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Chapter List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
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Summer 2013
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6-PACK
T R I U M P H
TR6 & TR250
FREE
PARts & AccEssoRiEs
cAtAlogs
Editor’s Workbench
Paying It Forward
STAFF & OFFICERS
Editor/Publisher
David J. Fidler
2421, Poplar Crescent
Mississauga, ON, L5J 4H2
Canada
(905) 829-9340
editor@6-pack.org
Assistant Editor
Irv Korey
emanteno@comcast.net
Chairman
Greg Donegan
2593 Bethlehem Lane
Hebron, KY 41048
tr6greg@fuse.net
Vice Chairman
Matt Mullin
2518 Handasyde Court
Cincinnati, OH 45208
(513) 321-6961
brg69tr6@juno.com
Membership
R Ashford Little II
4240 Wickersham Dr.
Atlanta, GA 30327
membership@6-pack.org
Treasurer
Ray Suchta
121 Lexington Drive
Canonsburg, PA 15317
(724) 941-9667
rsuchta@verizon.net
“Keep’em On
The Road”™
Historian
Mark Anderson
4400 Douglas Dr.
Adrian, MI 49221
(517) 265-4110
triumphmotorltd@yahoo.com
Quality Parts & Accessories
Fully illustrated catalogs with the parts you need.
Specify your make and model to get a FREE catalog.
Regalia
David “Billy Ray” Magella
50 West Charlotte Ave
Cincinnati ,OH 45215
513-535-8964
dmagella@cgmail.com
Fast Service, Simple Ordering and Convenient, Quick Delivery.
Chapter Coordinator
Kevin Andrews
MGA
MGB, MGC
Midget
TR2, TR3, TR4, TR4A
TR250, TR6
TR7, TR8
GT6, Spitfire
100-4, 100-6, 3000
Sprite
Alpine, Tiger
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Shop Online ... Fast, Simple & Safe
1-800-255-0088
Orders - Catalog Request -Status
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I
n the last issue of 6-PACK Louis Mijares wrote about ‘Teaching
The NexGen’, which created
quite a lot of email and got me
thinking. Are we doing enough?
Unfortunately, the answer is...
no. Not by a long way.
Faced with the looming crisis
of having a disinterested, disconnected
generation coming along behind us, it
falls on each and every one of us to promote our TRs, and LBCs in general, as
‘cool’ and to create a ‘buzz’ about restoring
and keeping these gems running. It’s no
easy task. Kids today don’t have the historic connection that we did growing up.
They’re either too far removed from the
‘motherland’ or there are too many other
distractions... try holding a conversation
with a teenager these days and you’ll be
talking to the top of their head as their
thumbs blur away on a Smartphone!
Maybe the way forward is to communicate with them using the technology
they love? Send them IMs (Instant Messages) on Facebook or Tweet them “I’m
in the garage... need help!” They may
just surprise you.
If you don’t have kids in your immediate family, do what Lou did and take your
car to a local youth group for a ‘Show &
Tell’. If the thought of sticky hands all
over your pride and joy scares you, take
a slide show along and maybe a
few parts. Have them strip down
an old carburetor or any other
old parts you have lying around
the shop, or have your local car
club invite youth groups to your
events or meetings.
Let’s all try harder to get the
next generations involved with our hobby. One thing we have in our favor is
their thirst for knowledge, they’re like
sponges during their formative years.
Let them turn a wrench or two with you,
take them along to car shows and on
drives, maybe to the movies or a cruise
night at a local diner... way cool!
As I write this the leaves are starting
to fall already (sorry this issue is a little
late again – I am catching up though)
and the temperatures are dropping here
in Canuckia. I won’t put Rosie away until
the first salt goes down, which is (hopefully) a long way off yet and I encourage
you all to drive your TRs as often as possible, they love to be driven and they’ll
thank you for it!
Lots to read in this edition of 6-PACK
and I hope you enjoy it. Don’t forget to
write me with your own TR stories. A review of the 2013 TRials will be featured
in the Fall issue, due out in November.
David Fidler—Editor
824 Stage Coach Road
Siler City, NC 27344
(919) 742-9209
kandrews@charter.net
Webmaster
Alan Atkinson
137 Gallows Hill Rd.
Cortland Manor NY 10567
webmaster@6-pack.org
Head Judge
Jim Holewka
6226 Willowbottom Road
Hickory, NC 28602
jimholewka@hotmail.com
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Summer 2013
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Club & Chapter News
Driver’s Seat
6-PACK
MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION
6 - PA C K i s a n a t i o n a l o r g a n i z a t i o n
dedicated to the enjoyment, preservation, and restoration of the Triumph TR250 and TR6. Membership
includes four (4) issues of the club's memberdriven magazine, "6-PACK".
All enthusiasts of Triumph TR6 & TR250s are
invited to join. Dues are US$35 - USA, US$40 Canada/Mexico, US$55 - rest of the world. (US
funds, cashier check or pay via our website.
Two year memberships are also available. Direct
membership enquiries to the Membership Officer:
membership@6-PACK.org
SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION
6-PACK Magazine is published quarterly to disseminate technical and historical information,
club news, and provide 6-PACK members with
an opportunity to share their TR experiences.
CHANGE OF ADDRESS should be sent to the
Membership Secretary. Please allow 6-8 weeks
for address change to become effective. 6-PACK
Magazine is not forwarded by the post office.
Club member must inform 6-PACK of address
change. 6-PACK assumes no liabilty for late or
undelivered magazines.
6-PACK ONLINE:
www.6-Pack.org
6-Pack sponsors an on-line mailing list for
the benefit of 6-PACK members and others
with an interest in the Triumph TR6/TR250.
To subscribe to this free service visit the
6-PACK web site at www.6-Pack.org.
AT YOUR OWN RISK
Content and material is contributed by
6-PACK members and other interested parties.
Opinions expressed in articles are solely
those of the authors and do not represent
the opinions of 6-PACK, its Officers, Editor,
Publisher, or members. Technical material
presented in this newsletter is for reference
only and its use, accuracy, and suitability is
not endorsed or recommended by 6-PACK, the
editor/publisher, nor by any Officer or member of
6-PACK. Use at your own risk!
W
Passing theTorch
e’ve had some really great driving weather so far this summer, I
hope you’ve been able
to get out there and
take advantage of it with
your TR. I’ve not done
that much, what with
all of the home projects
that I’ve decided to take
on this year, but that’s
the way it is sometimes.
For those of you who
are wondering who
my replacement will
be since I announced my intention of
stepping down as your Chairman at last
year’s TRials in Niagara Falls, I’m wondering too, since no one has stepped
forward to say that they would like to
lead the Club into the next era. I will
be staying on for the time being, but I
won’t be staying at the wheel much longer. I very much want someone to take
over who will have some fresh ideas on
where we can go and how to get there.
I believe that you as members want
that too and I’m confident that person
is going to step forward. Contact me or
one of the other Club officers if you or
someone you know is interested, and
we will fill you in on the opportunities
available as 6-PACK Chairman.
The Club will be spending a few membership dollars making some upgrades
to the website software,
to enable integration
with our online store &
membership portion of
the site, but according to
our Webmaster, Alan Atkinson, you won’t really
see it, just know that it’s
there working for you.
More good things are to
come for the Club website, so stay tuned.
One question & reminder I want to put out
there, do you know when
your Club membership expires? If not,
I encourage you to find out and keep
it current. If you let it lapse, and try
to renew via the website, you will find
that you cannot renew, you must rejoin as a new member. That’s the way
the software is designed to work and
it’s not something that we can change.
It’s much easier to stay ahead of the
game and keep your membership up
to date. Don’t forget, even if you renew
a few weeks early we won’t start your
next membership period until the expiry date.
With that I’ll say so long ‘til next
time... Keep ‘em on the road!
Joe was an easy guy to
like. After all, how hard is
it to like a guy who is always smiling?
Joe was a family man, a
wine and coffee aficionado, an inspired chef, an adventurous traveler, as well
as a classic British car enthusiast. He cared about,
and for, his family and
cherished his 33 wedding
anniversaries with Laurie.
Joe passed on his passions
to his daughter Dana and
son Jonathan.
Joe was really excited
when his TR6 project was
completed and he brought
the car home. He worked
on finishing up the interior and recovered his Miata
Joe listens as his new engine runs for the first time
seats with the help of Laurie. Joe was looking forward to bring- cations arose and Joe passed away just
ing the 6 to his first TRials. But soon a couple of days before TRials.
after Joe brought his TR6 home from
Joe was a great guy and a great
Silver Lake Ultimate Triumph in the friend, and he enriched the lives of
spring, he became ill.
all that knew him. We miss him, and
While undergoing treatment, compli- always will. – Irv Korey
THE NEW RETRO 6-­PACK DECAL Now Available in both a sticker and a vinyl windscreen decal Cut-away TR6 Graphic adapted from Road
& Track and used by permission. "6-PACK" is
the trademark of the Triumph TR6 and TR250
Car Club.
©2013 6-PACK All rights reserved.
WINDOW DECAL $4.00 Each (includes shipping) STICKER $2.75 Each (includes shipping) Contact the Regalia Officer to Order Hi, my name is Harrison Suchta. Here
is a picture of me in my 1972 TR-6. It is
my first car and I love it! My grandfather thinks it’s his as does my dad, but
it’s mine. It is Saffron and has a few
modifications. It is equipped with a
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Summer 2013
6-PACK
Welcomes our newest members!
New Members as of October 3, 2013
James Clayton
Bristol
NH
Joe Earnest
Atlanta
GA
William Graham
Toronto
Ontario
Robert Richard
Winthrop
MA
Lance Switzer
Cleveland
OH
Terry McMahon
Madison
IN
Tim Skinner
Hallsville
TX
Roman Hrynewycz
Elwood Park
IL
Jim Aldridge
Romeoville
IL
Kim Casper
Kansasville
WI
Mike Bilyk
Oakland
MI
Jim Brack
Martinsville
IN
Dondi Ellis
Boonsboro
MD
Christopher Gittens
Franksville
WI
John W Ketchum
Terrace Park
OH
Jerry Kokosinski
Hoffman Estates
Steve Yott
Silver Lake
WI
Doug Jack
Pittsford
NY
Jeff Cooke
Carmel
IN
Ken Trottere
Greenlawn
NY
Charles Vaughan
Waterbury
CT
Rick Oakley
High Springs
FL
Steve Parker
Visalia
CA
Don Wells
Sioux City
SD
William Hermann
Saint Francisville
LA
Rodger Mills
Fort Worth
TX
Mike Murphy
Dillon Beach
CA
IL
Child’s play
Tally Ho!
Greg Donegan
6-PACK Chairman
LEGAL
6
Joe Honor 1954-2013
6-PACK Magazine
I
tubular header and free flow exhaust,
Good Parts triple Stromberg induction
as well as front springs and stainless
radiator shroud. My dad and grandfather installed a Ratco throttle linkage
a short time ago. Very nice throttle
response now. It also has a rear sway
bar. As soon as my feet can reach the
pedals I’ll be driving. By then I can
lose this special seat. It does have a
5-point harness for safety. I love for
my dad to take me for rides. We always have the top down and the wind
messes up my hair. I like him to go
fast, but I don’t think he does. After I
learn to read I’ll check the speedometer. Sometimes I let my sister go for
www.6-Pack.org
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Summer 2013
a ride. She has a pink electric toy car.
It is really little and fun to ride in, but
PINK? Yuck. My dad takes me to British car events. Last July I went to British Car Day at the Pittsburgh Vintage
Grand Prix. There were over 500 British cars there! Next year’s honored
marque is the Mini. That is one of my
favorite cars. I’ll keep you posted on
my adventures. – Harrison Suchta
7
Member
Steven Howitt
Member
Profiles
Faces Behind the Wheel
Profiles
Faces Behind the Wheel
Paul Armstrong
- aka NBZ
Greg Marsh - aka Greg_M
- aka StevenH
I
I
’m 56 years old and live in Knoxville, TN, with my wife
of 19 years. I’m an electrical engineer and work in the
medical field with MRI scanners and CT imaging systems.
My car interests stem back to 1970 when, at 13, my dad
and I replaced the engine in his ‘65 Sunbeam Tiger. Before
that I built mini bikes and such from discarded lawn equipment. I rode motorcycles before I could drive and get a
license. I’ve always been into cars, even when I worked in
Dhahran, Saudi Arabia for 7 years in the late ‘80s.
I built a Factory Five Cobra replica between
2004 and 2007 and still own it. I bought my ’72
TR6 in 2011. In addition to my cars, my hobbies
include electronics, vintage audio and boats.
My ’72 TR6 is a survivor, and unrestored.
Original: paint, engine (even the coil and
spark plug wires), transmission and tunnel,
radiator shroud, radiator and fan, fuel pump,
emission controls, factory brushed aluminum
wheel beauty rings, wiper motor, key set,
seats, dash, crash pads and dash pad, steering
wheel, glass, chrome, bumpers, door cards, rear panels,
seat belts and parking ports. The 41-year-old factory soft
top is also original and perfect, as are the original boot
and tonneau covers. The carbs still have their factory
brass ID tags. I am sure that the body, being extensively rust-proofed when new, prevented any rust forming.
The car is always stored inside, was never wrecked and
never driven in the rain or washed with water.
Service history, ownership and mileage are documented,
and I have a Triumph Heritage Certificate on file. A very
rare intact factory paper quality sticker, a paper Triumph
8
dealer recall sticker and the plastic emissions
sticker reside under the bonnet. New carpet,
clutch and Monza exhaust were recently added.
Hoses, and other expendables were replaced
through the years as required. I changed the
brakes and clutch hydraulics to DOT5 silicon
fluid and lightly buffed the paint to remove oxidation and
fine scratches from the car cover. I changed the transmission fluid to Redline MTL and replaced the original cartridge oil filter with a 90º spin on filter. I replaced the factory original Vandervell thrust washers and verified the
engine has the factory original Vandervell bearings, which
are in great condition resulting in 60-75 pounds of hot oil
pressure above 1,500 rpm. I replaced the 15-year-old tubetype Michelin redlines (4,000 miles) with modern redline
radials for safety reasons. 6-Pack
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Summer 2013
bought the car on
March 30th, 2007, on a
beautiful early spring
day. My intention prior to
that time was to have a decent driver for the occasional
Sunday afternoon drive and I really wasn’t sure what I was
going to buy, only that it had to be a convertible. So earlier
that spring I looked at a 1968 Mustang, (out of my budget
allowance) and later online at a Volvo P1800 in Quebec.
Then, in late March, an ad appeared in the local Shopper’s Guide for a 1974 TR6. I called the owner and arranged to meet him later that same day on March 29th.
After a brief inspection and a short test ride we settled
on a price. The next day I went to pick it up and made
the short drive home without incident, (apart from arriving in my driveway with the speedo cable dragging
on the pavement) and got a “Cool Car!” shout from a
couple of kids on bikes along the way.
Next up was getting it safety certified. Back then I had only
a fundamental grasp of British auto mechanics, so I handed
this over to the shop that services our Volvos. That turned
out to be not such a great idea, since they wanted to basically
rebuild the entire car. Instead I took it over to the garage that
services my trucks and had the required repairs and servicing done for $500, plus another $500 in parts.
I’d like to say that things got easier from there, but in
fact what I had bought I found out later was a car in the
“dodgy” price range. The end result of that is that I’ve relied heavily on the knowledge and experience of 6-PACK
members and have met some great folks, both online and
in the flesh. I learned (or re-learned) a lot of skills related
to auto repair and maintenance, gained an appreciation for
the design, manufacture and history of the TR6, and really enjoy the hobby of ownership. Oh, and the occasional
drive doesn’t hurt either.
As a happily married father of two teenagers holding a
full-time job in hospitality management and also operating
a private business employing 3 people, time is certainly
at a premium. I’m looking forward to someday having a
little more of it to continue onward with the TR. In the
meantime, I’ve got it to where it’s a fair example and fairly
reliable and always enjoyable. 6-Pack
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I
was born in the mid-fifties and I am
a neighbor of a well known 6-PACKer,
Paul Rego (aka ‘Brosky’), in Massachusetts. I’ve been married for over 20
years. I owned and operated an excavation company in Massachusetts. Presently I am in my second term as a Massachusetts Legislator, proudly serving
the 4th Bristol County. I am a member
of SAG-AFTRA and have appeared in
numerous films and television shows.
My hobbies and interests include travel, dining and classic cars. Over the
years I have owned several British cars:
Steven Howitt with Wayne
Carini from Chasing Classic
Cars TV show
1962 MGA Mark II Deluxe
1962 Morgan plus 4
1955 MGTF 1500
1954 MGTF
1976 TR6
I currently own a 1974 Pimento Red TR6, with Chestnut interior, overdrive and hardtop. I bought it in 2008. I
also recently purchased a 1980 TR8 in Poseidon (metallic) Green with tan plaid interior and only 5,300 original
miles! Both the TR6 and TR8 have been used as backgrounds in films.
I have made many repairs
and upgraded my TR6 over five
years of ownership. Among the
things I’ve done are:
Summer 2013
Rebuilt the bottom end of the engine and
added an aluminum flywheel
Replaced the original 4 speed with a 4 speed plus overdrive
Bosch 55 amp alternator
Monza exhaust
New windshield and top
Superlite wheels and new tires
New wood dash with matching Moto-lita steering wheel and shift knob
Re-built the seats and much more
6-Pack
9
Member
Profiles
Faces Behind the Wheel
Jeremy Chinn
unmistakable front end shape of a
TR6 sitting under a tattered cover in
a barn. Several nail biting days later,
we handed over $850 and towed the
non-running ‘73 that has been part of
my life ever since.
Over the next year with the help
of my dad and my uncle Larry, we
brought that worn out shell of a car
back to life. The finished project was
British Racing Green just like dad’s
and was completed just in time for
me to learn to drive in it. Through the
intervening years since that original
restoration, I have built a hot motor
for the car, added a hard top and Nardi
steering wheel, just like dad’s. In the
late ’90s, I got bored with the normal
car shows and winery club runs and
decided to begin autocrossing my car.
I managed to take home a lot of trophies, but most were because I was the
- aka oppositelocksmith
M
y family’s infatuation with Triumphs goes back three generations. My
grandfather, Roy Chinn Sr., was heavily
involved in auto dealerships for all of
his life and his career took him eventually to a Triumph dealership in Little
Rock, AR. Through the dealership, he
supported some TR4 sportscar racers
and introduced my father to sports car
racing. Dad, Roy Chinn Jr., eventually
got work at the local sports car race in
Stuttgart, AR, the ‘Grand Prairie Grand
Prix’. Dad worked as a pit steward at the
races and also for the national H Production champ, Lavell Smith working
on Austin-Healey Bugeyes. He even
ran a young AJ Foyt around the pits on
the back of his Cushman scooter.
When the TR6 hit the market in ‘69
dad wanted one. He eventually bought
10 a British Racing Green and Biscuit ‘74
with hardtop, Nardi steering wheel
and overdrive. Dad and my uncle Larry Hollanger restored that car in the
very early eighties and it became a
daily driver for many years. I was just
starting grade school when he bought
it. My sister and I would sit on the ‘parcel shelf’ behind the seats, strapped in
with the seat belts dad had installed for
us back there. I fell in love with that
car and made dad promise to give me
that car when I was 16 and he agreed.
A year later, he sold the car for a more
reliable daily driver and a bass boat. I
was crushed!
By the time I was 13, I had been
mowing lawns for quite some time
and had saved a fairly good chunk of
cash. Dad made a deal with me that
6-PACK Magazine
only car in my class!
My wife and I dated in the car and it
took us to both our
junior and senior
proms, graduations
from high school
and university and
away from our wedding, all in the comfort and excitement of that little green
roadster. Working on my TR6 and a few
other cars gave me the experiences and
skills necessary to push me through
a 15 year career in the auto industry
where I now work as a plant manager.
In the fall of 2011, after a slumber of 5 years, I began resurrecting
the car and have now gone through
it completely from a mechanical
standpoint. I’ve begun a refurbishment of the interior and worked
hard to remediate a few esthetic is-
sues which will have to wait until
young daughter and toddler son get
further along in school.
In 2012, I introduced the 4th generation of Chinns to the Triumph and now
my daughter wants to ride every where
in the “TEEE ARRE” – she always asks
me to take the long way regardless of
our destination. As she rides along side
me in the top-down Triumph with her
hair whipping in the wind, I know that
the love and appreciation for these
charismatic little roadsters will continue to live on. 6-Pack
he would match every dollar I saved
with one of his own so we could find
the right TR6. Our search included
over 30 different cars over a year. We
even turned down the beautiful pimento red ‘72 TR6 now owned by Bill
Cravens, which eventually won best
early TR6 at the 1995 TRials. While
on vacation in the Ozarks the summer I turned 15 (1990), I spotted the
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Summer 2013
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TRavels
The Thrill of the Drive
their TRs at home brought some of
their non-Brit iron. Several late model
Miatas, a dash of BMW 2002 and Mustang, joined in the fun. Those TRs that
did come to play included the entire
numerical family: TR3s, 4s, 6s, 7s and
we had a couple of Spits thrown in as
well. Doug Larson (who did a wonderful job putting the tour together),
had towel in hand, as we drooled and
shared in the beauty of his supercharged 6. And last, but certainly not
least, Peter drove his concours, award
winning 1957 Aston Martin DB MK III.
In fact, Peter and his Aston were on
the field of this year’s Amelia Island
Concours d’Elegance. His automobile
is indeed something to see.
As a reference point, we were now
about 2 hours southwest of downtown
Chicago; out of the hustle and bustle
of the City of Big
Shoulders and into
the small midwestern towns that surround the area we
call home.
So off we go, eyes
open, left hand on
the steering wheel
and right hand on
the camera. (Don’t
tell my mommy).
Getting Some
Kicks
Route 66
on (old)
T
by
Denny Stock - aka Stockybod
his past May, 23 cars loaded
with more than 36 ISOA ‘Coventry Irregulars’, ascended at a starting point
on the roads of Joliet IL. and thus began the club’s driving season and annual breakfast run. We began in the
shadows of Chicagoland Speedway
(best known for its NASCAR action),
but certainly not as well known as
say the Joliet Correctional Facility
of Blues Brothers fame. We did have
an Elwood amongst us, but no Jake
in our rat pack. This year, our LBC’s
descended upon the Holy Grail, the
“Mother Road” of roads, Route 66. Our
tour didn’t encompass the entire 2,448
miles from Chicago to Santa Monica,
but thru the sleepy little towns of
Elwood (yes, they named a town after him!), Wilmington, Braidwood,
Dwight and Pontiac. Although not as
well known as Gallup, Kingston, Flagstaff, San Bernardino, whose towns
and others were romanticized and immortalized in the Bobby Troup song,
ours had their own Midwestern charm
12 Ambler-Becker Texaco station
Among the many sights seen along the
way, was the Gemini Giant standing tall
and proud at the now defunct Launching Pad Drive-Inn in Wilmington. Guess
the food wasn’t out of this world?
After driving an hour or so through
several small towns, it was time for
breakfast and a stop at the Old RT 66
Family Restaurant in Dwight. Once we
had stuffed our faces with an over in-
dulgence of eggs, pancakes, corned beef
hash, chicken and waffles, and a multitude of fried breakfast delicacies, it was
time to move on; but not before a photoop d’jour at the often-pictured AmblerBecker Texaco station. In prominent picture formation, the station made a great
backdrop for our little beauties. Driving
out of Dwight, another “service station”
shines brightly. A Shell, complete with
250 GTO
Gemini Giant
1957 DB MK III
Doug Larson’s Super Dooper Supercharged TR6
and flavor about them. Thinking about
that song for a minute, the artists who
covered Route 66 are about as diverse
as they come. Just to name a few of
the over 50 who put their spin on it:
Chuck Berry, Bing Crosby and the Andrew Sisters, Nat King Cole, Mel Tome,
Brad Paisley, The Rolling Stones, Aerosmith, Them featuring Van Morrison,
and who could forget the ever popular
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version by Buckwheat Zydeco. That’s
some kinda song giving props to the
Mother Road.
As we received our map and instructions from Tourmeister Dave Larson,
off we went like LBD’s (Little British
Ducklings) in a row. So who showed
up? Well in addition to the aforementioned LBDs (ok ok, I won’t use that
one again), other club members left
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Pontiac-Oakland museum
a mural of a 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO and
original pumps advertising Super Shell
gasoline, containing the ingredient, lets
gasp together... Lead.
As we continued onward through
the towns that line RT 66 to our feature stop in Pontiac, I saw an Amtrak
P42DC near Braidwood, (home of a
Nuclear Power Plant), traveling eastbound with the final destination Chicago. I mean, where else can you see
a diesel-powered locomotive in the
foreground, wind power in the background and TR power in the driver’s
seat as well as the side mirror! (We had
to shoot several takes in order to make
this shot happen. Neither the engineer
nor passengers enjoyed the inconvenience, the author didn’t care).
Here comes da Bride
Mayor Bob, Pontiac IL.
that line the square. But before we
parked, each of us were greeted, with
a handshake by the mayor of Pontiac,
Mayor Bob. Small town Americana,
gotta love it! Actually, with a bustling
population a hair shy of 12,000, Pontiac
is actually a big time stop on Route 66.
With four museums and various attractions, there is certainly enough to keep
one busy for a couple of days. There
are 22 murals painted by various artists on the sides of buildings that depict
Continuing on, we drove through
Odell and passed by a 1932 Standard
Oil service station complete with signs
touting the fact they carry Miller Tires.
I’ll need to contact Discount Tire and
see if they can hook me up with a set.
Mid-morning, we pulled into the town
of Pontiac, our featured stop. Pontiac,
like many older small towns, has a
town square, complete with the original courthouse. Upon arrival, we were
directed to reserved parking spaces
the rich history of this small town. After spending well over an hour, it was
time to get back on the road to our final
destination, Starved Rock State Park,
for lunch and libation. As the roads began to twist and turn and the elevation
began a similar dance, we got closer as
we approached the park entrance. With
good temps and blue skies above, we
shared the road with those enjoying the
day in their 2-wheeled machines. Upon
pulling into the park entrance, it was
obvious we wouldn’t be able to park together, as it was quite crowded. After a
brief walk to the outdoor deck, we were
seated and began to order food and libations, although not necessarily in that
order. As our lunch passed beyond our
teeth, a bride and her accompanying
maids strolled by. We stood, applauded and made the bride blush a pretty
shade of pink. With that, and a backdrop of the panoramic views from the
tall sandstone bluffs framing the Illinois
River, it was a picture perfect finish to a
wonderful day of hangin’ out and driving our TRs. 6-Pack
Irv Korey – aka “Elwood” – Secretary of Transport for
Honest Abe
Amtrak P42DC
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15
Tech &
Resto
by
Dave Stauffacher
aka Tidbinbilla
No, I’m not talking about Guy
Fawkes! (Although with all due respect, I like raising a perfectly pulled
pint of John Bull Bitter to the “Guy”
every November!) I christened my
TR6, Fawkes, after Professor Dumbledore’s phoenix, from the Harry
Potter books. Why the phoenix reference will become apparent as my
story resumes…
T
hat white wall turned out to
be a van driven by a couple of teenagers who decided to make a left turn
Fawkes
YOU ONLY LIVE TWICE Part 2
directly in front of me. It happened
so quick that my reaction time was
nil – we collided at 40 mph! Little did
my wife know that the next time she
would see me I would be in the hospital and the TR6 would be totaled!
Luckily I survived; the car didn’t. It
took me a couple of years to recover
from the injuries; even longer to put
my TR6 back together. It was a tragedy to see my beloved TR6 destroyed.
However the real tragedy was not hav-
Pedal and dimmer switch arrangement
ing enough insurance to cover the
car’s value! While restoring the TR6 I
had it insured for the cost of materials only. When I finally got the TR6 on
the road, I forgot to up the collision/
comprehensive coverage to restored
value. The TR6 was grossly underinsured, which caused all kinds of legal
problems that took over two years to
come to a less than satisfactory solution. Suffice to say their lawyers were
more devious than mine.
At this point I was pretty depressed.
My cherished TR6 that I spent years
meticulously restoring was totaled
and the settlement, after paying medical expenses, was way under what I
needed to restore the car. There was a
moment when I seriously considered
getting out of the Triumph hobby and
take what little money I did have and
put it on a down payment on a brand
Metering unit/dizzy
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new Nissan 370Z. But in the end I realized that I enjoyed Triumph cars and
people way too much to part company!
So then began the second frame-off
restoration after only 18,000 miles
since the first!
To put the car back together, I used
the best parts of my original TR6 plus
some from a couple of donor TR6s.
The frame, tub, front fenders, bonnet
and doors were off a 1974; the bumpers, front valance and seats came
from a 1969. It was a sad moment to
see my original car lifted off my trailer
and dumped unceremoniously on the
top of a pile of cars destined for the
crusher!
During the second restoration, I took
notice of the different between a Home
Market vs. North American TR6. The
body, chassis, engine and transmission are pretty much the same. Aside
from the right hand steering and fuel
injection, it was the little things that
proved interesting.
Once you get used to sitting in the
“passenger” seat, it all looks the about
the same. The center gauges and
plinth controls are in the same arrangement. Of course, the speedometer, tachometer and wiper/washer
controls are reversed. Strangely there
are no hazard warning lights. The
turn signal and O/D switches are on
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Front indicators/driving lamp with air cleaner in background
the right and being a 1970 model, the
lights switch is on the left. You have
no idea how many times I turned my
lights on when trying to use my indicators! The pedals are in the same order, but are angled to the left. For the
tech guys: ever wonder about those
two odd holes in the top of the pedal
box? One is for the accelerator cable;
the other is for the clutch pedal extension that operates the master cylinder.
The dimmer switch is mounted on the
firewall up near the transmission cover which takes some effort to operate
with my clumsy left foot!
I did find that my steering wheel will
now create a blind spot for the fuel
gauge and ammeter; the oil pressure
and temperature gauges are easier to
see. During the original rebuild, I got
rid of the ignition key in the plinth – it
was just too awkward for me to turn
the key and pull the choke simultaneously. Having the ignition beneath
the steering column works for me,
but that locking mechanism had to go!
Now cold starting the car is easier for
me as I can turn the key with my right
hand and operate the choke with my
left. (after pulling the choke out it can be
turned a quarter turn which locks it inplace – Ed)
The windshield wipers park right.
Inside the engine compartment,
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Rear taillight and injection badging
aside from all the plumbing that goes
with the PI system, you will notice
that the brake and clutch pipes travel
across the firewall over to the left side
where they hookup with the standard
pipes. I used Automec copper alloy
brake and fuel lines. The brake system does not have a PDWA or brake
warning switch.
You all know how the oil filter canister can be difficult to work with.
Not so on a RHD model – plenty of
working room on that side of the engine with steering column missing!
(Of course I got rid of the canister
because it is still a bother). Also note
that the air cleaner sits in front of the
radiator and a flexible hose connects
it to the air tube. The distributor sits
higher due to it resting on top of the
metering unit pedestal, resulting in
17
Goodparts rear disc setup with caliper for emergency brake
slightly longer plug wires.
On the outside, the front indicators
are clear/amber: clear are running
lights, amber are the turn signals.
The front side lamps are not running
lights but are indicator repeaters. In
the rear tail light assembly the side
lenses are amber. The rear badge displays “Injection” and “Overdrive”.
In the boot, the fuel system is a little
more complicated. The fuel tank outlet runs into the spare tire well, before
exiting into the left rear wheel arch
where the fuel pump and filter are
mounted. The horror stories one hears
about the PI system seem to center
around the fuel pump. It was strongly
recommended that I swap out the Lucas pump and filter which I did for a
Bosch unit from a mid ’80s Mercedes
Benz sedan. The original Lucas pump
was mounted off the left rear wheel
arch and filter was mounted on that
little tab in the spare tire well. Just to
the left of the tank is the Pressure Relief Valve that maintains a constant 110
psi pressure in the main fuel line. On
PRV (pressure relief valve), fuel tank outlet and two return pipes Fuel pump/filter setup in left wheel arch
I had the following changes during the original restoration:
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•
“A” type O/D transmission was added
Installed a spin on oil filter and oil cooler
Added electronic ignition with high-capacity coil
GM alternator - per recommendations in Dan Master’s book. (I added shunt to ammeter.)
Alloy valve cover
Wipac Qaudoptic H4 Halogen headlamps with pilot using 100/80W bulbs
- Man, does that make a difference!
Separate relays for high/low beams and fuel pumps; upgraded wiring
Spax shocks on front, competition springs on all fours and poly bushings wherever possible.
Installed leather seats and wool carpets
Fully insulated interior with aluminium coated wrap. It really cut down on heat
and transmission noise.
LeCarra steering wheel
Hella horns
Aux power outlet for cell phone cord
Front air dam
Back-up bonnet release (from ISOA article)
Factory hardtop
Mohair Biscuit coloured hood
I decided to make a few improvements the second time around:
•
•
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18 I installed a Good Parts front/rear disc brake kit which was pretty much a bolt-on operation.
While I like to go fast, I like to brake even quicker! I also added a set of their adjustable
trailing arm brackets which work really smooth and easy.
I decided after having my head snapped in the accident (original seats had no head rest)
to install the 1969 seats which I found be surprisingly comfortable.
A new aluminium radiator with thermostatically controlled electric fan was installed. The
engine normally runs on the cool side but occasionally when stuck in L.A. freeway stop and
go traffic the temp gauge would creep up too far.
I swapped out the old fuse box for an aftermarket flag type and used chair connectors to
mimic original wiring.
I was having problems with debris in the original fuel tank clogging up my fuel lines causing
the engine to shut down immediately. I thought I had the problem solved but it happened
again on the San Diego freeway during rush hour! Some quick maneuvering got me across
6 lanes of traffic and onto the shoulder! The next day I purchased a brand new tank and
installed a fuel pressure gauge in the dash, replacing the rheostat. Yeah, like my dash lights
were always too bright! Now, when driving I can easily monitor the fuel pressure.
Installed heavier gauge wiring and relays in light circuits to accommodate high wattage
halogen headlights. And speaking of headlights, besides having the high/low beam bulb,
mine has a small bulb called a pilot. Much to my initial annoyance when first living in
England, it seems the standard practice for driving in the London’s brightly lit streets is to
have these pilot lights on at night, not the low beams. I hate to recall the number of times I
cut someone off in traffic by not seeing their low beams in my review mirrors. After a while,
driving with the pilot lights on made real sense.
I had originally installed a super cool stereo and amplifier setup but never really used it! I
ended up enjoying the sweet sounds my engine made when cruising! So this time around –
no built in “sounds”.
6-PACK Magazine
top of the tank are two
excess fuel return pipes:
one coming from the
PRV the other from the
metering unit.
For the current restoraGoodparts front disc setup
tion I decided to change
the paint color to my second favorite color. After much
trial and error, the paint shop formulated a custom mix of
a deeper shade of Damson.
Restoration was performed under the guidance and assistance of Randy Zoller and his staff at Heritage Motorsports
of El Cajon, California and fellow members of the Triumph
Sports Car Club of San Diego, Kevin Schulte and Frank Conklin. Paint and pin striping by Jack Williams, also of El Cajon.
In my experience, the PI system has been easy to work
with. Installation was a breeze. The PI system is not as
complex at it looks. The only fiddling was during initial
setup when I had to set the timing on the metering unit
and adjust the air flow on the three throttle bodies. I’ve
driven over 18,000 miles and have yet to experience any
significant trouble or major readjustment! Once I had to
use a blast of compressed air to clear out a clogged injector
and another time replace a crimped plastic fuel pipe that
I accidentally damaged. Both tasks were easily done by a
shade-tree mechanic such as me. There is one downside
that became readily apparent when traveling over the Sierra Nevada mountains on our way to Lake Tahoe for Triumphest. There is no altitude adjustment! Special factory
equipment is needed to recalibrate the metering unit for altitude changes! TheTR6 was running so rich it barely made
it over the 9000 foot summit. I had to stop every 30 miles
and clean off the plugs. Fortunately, while at Triumphest,
someone there from the UK told me about a neat little trick
they use to “adjust” the metering unit for altitude. It worked
like a champ! Given the type of open freeway or back country road driving that I do, the 150 bhp (mostly due to the
cam profile and compression ratio) engine provides more
than enough performance. A few comments on RHD driving in America – it’s a heck of a lot of fun! Driving in England and Australia for years made me well acquainted with
maneuvering a RHD car. It’s easier to get into reverse as I
have more leverage pulling the shift lever versus pushing
it. The most difficult adjustment had been to look LEFT for
the rear view mirror. Shooting an instinctive quick glance
to my right out into open sky was a little unnerving in tight
traffic situations! My quick reaction was to use the door
mounted rear view mirror! Shifting with the left hand and
looking left for the rear view mirror are instinctive now.
The primary and secondary roads in the United States are
wide and I can see well enough ahead to safely overtake
any vehicles in front of me. Toll booths, ATMs and other
various drive-up facilities do present a problem! Of course,
there’s great fun in raising a few eye brows whenever I can
persuade Shirley into holding her hands high above her
head while traveling down the road!
Now that Fawkes has risen, Shirley and I look forward to
enjoying the top down driving that makes all the restoration
hassles and headaches worthwhile. 6-Pack
TOYOTA TO TRIUMPH
5–Speed Transmission
Conversions
TR-2 through TR-6
Herman van den Akker
P.O. Box 6812, Pine Mountain Club, CA 93222-6812
Phone: (661) 242-1253 • E-mail: handhvan@msn.com
www.hvdaconversions.com
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19
Tech &
Resto
D
uring the relatively short
time I’ve been a member of 6-Pack,
I’ve seen numerous posts regarding
the installation of the interior door
panels and how to install them utilizing those pesky trim panel clips. As
my own sixteen month restoration
drew to a close, the door panels were
one of the last items to install before I
could say I was complete.
When I started restoring my 1974
TR6, I had all good intentions of staying as original as possible to maintain
the integrity and value of the car. My
originality intentions changed however when I discovered the frame had
holes large enough for me to stick
my hand into. I progressed from a
mild conservative restoration to a full
frame off nut and bolt. Every option
and modification known to the Triumph world was purchased and installed. My desire to keep it original
faded with the realization that once I
started modifying the chassis (RATCO)
originality was no longer an option.
My goals changed but I still wanted to
make sure that once complete, my car
looked like a stock TR6. Only the astute Triumph owner would recognize
that my 1974 is a hodgepodge of Triumph parts from various donor cars
of all years. I like to think that I combined the best features from earlier
years into my completed restoration.
During the restoration a local upholstery shop made up all the new interior parts. I knew that if the door backing wasn’t laid out properly, I could
have problems lining up the trim panel clips. I decided to fabricate the backing myself from 1/8” masonite, being
very careful to place all of the holes
in the correct locations. I provided the
20 Velcro Door Panel
by
Trim Clip
completed backing panels to the
upholstery shop. I would have
nobody to blame but myself
if the trim panel clips did not
line up with the doors. I felt comfortable that when the time came to install
them, I could be certain that the clips
would be in the correct locations and
should snap in without any problems.
The day arrived to install the interior door panels. The rest of the interior was complete and the final touch
would be to finish off the doors. I
placed the panel clips into the holes
on the panel backer board. After lining the clips up to the holes on the
door, I started to push each clip into
their respective hole. I noticed that
I could see the back side of the clips
pushing up against the interior side of
the vinyl. Fearing a tear in the vinyl, I
quickly removed the panel and took a
step back. This issue prompted me to
think about installing the panels using
Velcro. I thought if I could purchase
Velcro in wide enough strips, it might
provide an easier solution to installing the door panels. A trip to the local
hardware store revealed that the Velcro was available in a number of different widths. I decided on widths of
two inch and one inch strips, eight foot
lengths of each size.
Inside of door panel
I’ve always been told that the hook
(hard) side of Velcro should always
be mounted on whatever you decide
to mount on it. So with that in mind,
I mounted the hook side to the door
and the loop (soft) side to the panel.
That didn’t work out for some reason
and the panel loosened each time the
door was closed. So I reversed the Velcro, placing the hook side on the door
panel and the loop side on the door.
The results were much different, the
panel stayed in place.
When you purchase Velcro, the strip
comes with the hook and loop joined
together. This works well for when
aligning the door and panel.
Installation Steps
Make sure both the door and the interior door panel are clean, dry and free
of any contaminants.
Cut the Velcro into the lengths needed to secure the panel. (See Photo)
Peel the backer off the loop (soft)
side of the Velcro and affix to the door.
Be sure to leave the hook side attached
during this step. Make sure the Velcro
is pressed well into place.
With the backer still on the hook side,
dry fit the interior panel to make sure
Velcro
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Steve Squillante – aka Squid)
the Velcro is hidden and not extending
beyond the edges of the interior panel.
Once satisfied with the Velcro placement, peel the backing tape off of the
hook side of the Velcro.
Carefully place the interior panel
into position and press into place.
Check the alignment for the door and
window handles.
Install the handles and associated
hardware.
Project should be complete.
To remove the panel, you need to work
your finger into the hook and loop and
slide your finger along as the hook and
loop separates. If you try to pull the
panel off without first breaking the
tension, the Velcro may come off of
either the door or the interior panel.
Both the door handle and window
handle pins can be easily removed
with the use of a straight pin punch. I
used two wrenches (See Photo) to push
the panel back far enough to expose
the pin. The pin is easily pushed out
with the punch. I don’t use the spring
on my car, but I’ve removed the pin
using the same method with or without the spring.
Replacing the pin is made easy by using a ten penny finishing nail with the
Complete door panel
point ground flat.
I can’t take credit for this method,
but I can’t remember where I saw it.
Hold the pin up to the finishing nail
and use masking tape to hold the pin
in place (See Photo)
Place the handle onto the mechanism, line up the hole and push the pin
into the hole using the nail. Once the
pin is in place, break the masking tape
with a downward force on the nail.
Another method I utilize is to machine the end of a ten penny nail (see
photo) leaving a small portion of the
center intact. A ten penny finishing
nail is the correct diameter of the original pin. Push the pin into the handle
and snap off the nail leaving the pin to
do its job. The machining can be done
by utilizing a drill or a lathe and a
grinder with a cut off wheel. 6-Pack
Taped nail
Machined nail
Wrenches
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21
TRansformers
Restomods & Non-Stock Upgrades
1
Fuel Injecting
TR6
1
a
by
22 2
Line to pressure regulator (1) Schrader valve (2) Line from HP filter (3)
I
will start where I think the important details, there is an access
thought process should begin for this panel that permits me to service the
project, at the back. Fuel injection re- fuel strainer which fits over a pipe exquires copious amounts of high pres- tension on the pump inlet, the pump
sure fuel. It does not tolerate fuel in- can be replaced without pulling the
terruptions. Therefore, a baffled tank tank, and the hot aerated return fuel
to prevent fuel sloshing, a fuel sump from the engine compartment is dito supply the pump, and a way to pre- verted across the tank to the opposite
vent debris entering the pump are side from the sump. This permits that
required. Originally, I tried a gravity fuel to return into fuel, cooling it and
feed from the stock tank through a fil- de-aerating it before it makes it back
ter to a swirl pot tank. It didn’t work to the pump. I have this diversion bethe best. I had both
cavitation of the pump
and fuel starvation in
corners. Now, I have
a bespoke aluminum
tank that is baffled to
prevent fuel sloshing,
it has my swirl pot tank
grafted onto it, and a
fuel strainer sock for
the pump inlet. It uses
the stock mounts, fuel
sending unit, and even
the original fuel feed
outlet location. A few Fuel strainer and drain
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3
Fuel tank, high pressure
fuel pump (1) fuel filter (2)
Craig Kenyon – aka craigkenyon
This is a series of articles combined
covering my ten+ years saga of fuel
injecting my TR6. It was a bone stock
1976 TR6, in 1982, with just 24,000
miles on it when I bought the car. In
its best state of tune, it could only
be described as ‘performance challenged’. It also had a few driveability
issues; it wouldn’t start shortly after
shut down when hot, it ran on when
hot, and it cut out in left hand corners. As it aged, it became more and
more difficult to pass Maricopa county emissions tests. Solving all of these
issues in one swoop got me motivated
to pursue fuel injection. After careful
research, I realized that I also needed
to control ignition to affect the most
improvement. That is when I pursued the Ford EDIS – MegaJolt ignition solution that a few of the DCTRA
members now have. Since getting the
ignition to work, I have slowly solved
the technical issues for fuel injecting
a TR6. In the following article, I will
described what I did and why, offering suggestions for improvement.
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cause the fuel is returned via the stock
outlet location on the left side of the
tank (sump side). I had used that fuel
line for fuel supply while running my
carburetors (I had a tee fitting that
went to the stock fuel pump). It is
capped off now and I used it as a fuel
circuit drain point.
Once the fuel gets to the high pressure pump it needs to be filtered before
going to the injectors. I ran hard aluminum lines over to a high pressure filter
then lines to the front of the car. The
fuel lines go up to the fuel rail, over
to the pressure regulator, then around
the engine compartment to make a
full circuit back to the tank. I used 3/8”
AN-6 lines and hardware. This would
be about the minimum size for supply
and plenty big for the return lines. The
one thing to note about aluminum is
that it work hardens, you need to keep
your bending and flaring of the tubing to a minimum. Also, it needs to be
securely fastened to hard mounts so it
does not vibrate and work harden that
way. Work hardening can eventually
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lead to fatigue cracking of the tubing.
As you can see from the photos, the
pump, filter and some lines are in the
trunk. I did this to protect the pump
and filter as there are very few places
to mount these things that are protected from road debris. I designed the
placing so I can still have a spare tire
in the well. The lines follow the frame
rails forward through the “T-shirt” area
of the frame. This is less than then ideal as the lines are in a small area with
the exhaust pipes and probably pick
up significant heat.
The fuel flows from the supply line
into through braided lines to the fuel
rail. I used braided lines to have give
for engine movement and they integrated well with the various AN fittings. The fuel rail is a piece of extruded aluminum stock with injector
holes, mounting holes, pipe thread
inlet/outlets and a Schrader valve.
The injector holes need to be prepared properly as the only seal for
the high pressure fuel is the O-rings
on the injector. The mounting of the
fuel rail should be solid as the rail
holds the injectors in place. The bottom of the injectors have O-rings to
seal for air leaks in the intake manifold bungs. You don’t want to have air
leaks nor have the injectors and the
fuel spray move about as that would
adversely affect the fuel air ratio. The
Schrader valve permits purging of air
from the system and depressurization of the high pressure fuel circuit
for maintenance. The fuel then flows
to my adjustable fuel pressure regula-
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Summer 2013
tor. The regulator makes sure that the
fuel pressure for the injector stays at
the set pressure above the changing
manifold pressure. There is a manifold pressure line from my intake
plenum to the regulator for this reference pressure. The typical pressure
differential is 3 bar (approx.. 45 psi).
I did adjust my pressure up to 60 psi
for a while to help compensate for my
too small injectors. I now have 22#/hr
injectors and only need the 3 bar. The
fuel regulator dumps the unneeded
fuel back to the tank via my return
circuit of fuel lines.
There are a few things I would consider doing differently. First, there is
a good argument to placing the fuel
pump in the tank. It keeps it cool.
However, pulling the tank out isn’t
easy, so perhaps an access panel for
the pump and connections on the
rear face of the tank is the answer. It
would require a different trim panel.
Second, rather than running a big
fuel circuit of lines up to the front
and back again like I did, run the fuel
from the pump to the HP filter then to
the pressure regulator located in the
trunk or on the tank. The unused fuel
returns immediately to the tank and
you only have one fuel line (supply)
going forward to the fuel rail. This
would require a manifold pressure
line (vacuum line) from the intake
manifold back to the pressure regulator. This line doesn’t have fuel in it
and could be run through the cockpit safely and be much, much, easier
than my dual lines to the front.
23
Electrical
The second subject is everyone’s least
favorite, electricity. In aircraft and
british cars, electricity is the flow of
“oddtrons”. Unless well planned, oddtrons do very odd things and you can
chase your tail for hours trying to fix
things. If you don’t want all of the
Lucas Smoke ™ to leak out of your
Triumph wiring harness, a separate
harness is the answer for your fuel injection system. A fuel injection system
with ignition draws significant amperage. For example, fuel pump 10A, injector banks 5-10A, wide band Oxygen
sensors 5-10A, electronic ignition system with coil pack 5-10A and fuel computer 2A. I installed a bolt-in plug-in
95A alternator from BNR. They make
ones to fit both early and late mounts
1
2
3
Fuse block for FI: relays (1) MegaSquirt II computer (2) Serial Cable to connect to laptop (3)
with no alterations. The
best part is that there
was an extra output lug.
I ran a heavy gauge wire
from that lug directly
to the connector block
on my battery positive
lead. From the connector block, I ran another
heavy gauge wire to my
auxiliary fuse block.
This input is fused then
goes to the main power
relay. The main power
relay is controlled on/off by the original ignition switch controlled coil lead.
This way the system turns on and off
with the ignition switch and the ignition switch sees little current load.
From the relay, I have distributed the
power to all of my various fuel injection components, a power jack and
my stereo. I have mounted all this
mounted on a removable ground plate
mounted on the underside of the firewall in the passenger foot well. The
ground plate has two heavy ground
leads, one connecting to the chassis
Oxygen sensors
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Summer 2013
at the same location as the battery
negative cable and the other connecting to the engine at the battery negative cable connection. All of the various components ground to a common
ground connector block on this plate.
Effective, redundant grounding is the
easiest way to prevent queertron behavior. For safety, I have two switches. The first is a manual switch that I
can reach while driving that cuts the
ground lead from the main power relay, shutting the whole system down.
The second is a collision fuel pump
shut off switch located in the trunk
that cuts the ground lead for the fuel
pump in the event of an accident.
The fuel injector computer itself is
a low amperage control device with
quite a few sensor inputs and several
outputs. I purchased a partial harness
from DIY Autotune to help expedite
the process. For outputs, there is a relay control for the fuel pump, I used
this for both the fuel pump and the
Oxygen sensors/computers. Yes, each
of the O2 sensors have a small computer box, this box controls the sensor
and processes the signal. The box can
output 2 signals, I use one to drive the
fuel injection computer and the other
to drive a analog gauge. The signals are
completely programmable to match
whatever you need. Additionally, the
O2 computers permit logging of the
air/fuel ratio independent of the fuel
injection computer. Why have two
O2 sensors? In my case, I have an exhaust header that collects the front
three cylinders and the back three
cylinders independent of each other.
Therefore, to see the air fuel ratio for
all of the engine, I needed a sensor for
the front and the back. The other outputs from the fuel injector computer
are the Idle Air Control Valve wiring,
the injector banks, and the EDIS SAW
signal. The SAW signal was covered
in my earlier article about the EDIS
ignition system. Essentially, it is the
ignition advance control signal.
As you can see, packaging all of this
6-PACK Magazine
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into a TR6 can be a challenge. My
goal was to make all of this wiring,
computers, etc as unobtrusive as possible with the minimum of holes in
the body. Additionally, I planned for
future maintenance. To achieve this,
the ground plane mounting plate is
removable with enough wire length
to lay it down in the passenger foot
well. Also, all of the O2 sensor wiring
and gauges are set up with connector
blocks to permit ease of removal and
diagnosis. Keeping track while everything is wired up is a challenge and
requires prior planning of where all
the wires and associated connectors
will go. Most everything has dedicated
connectors that are all different from
each other to prevent wrong connections. Again, like the fuel lines, you
want to keep the wires secured from
movement/vibration. I am pretty
happy with my wiring as it achieved
my goal of being least obtrusive, allowed the addition of a charger outlet,
and powers up my awesome stereo
while having safety and reliability. No
oddtrons have appeared...Yet.
Set-up
For a gasoline internal combustion engine to be useful, you have to be able
to constantly control 3 things, the timing of the spark, the amount of fuel
and the amount of air entering the
engine. Theoretically, you would like
each cylinder to get the same amount
of air on each power stroke and have
any changes be equal. Many factors affect the volume of air; the individual
cylinder displacement, the individual
combustion chamber volume, the intake valve opening/timing, the porting in the head to the valve, the intake
manifold fit and design, the throttle
design and the intake design from the
throttle plate to the atmosphere. The
last three items can be more easily addressed than the others. Since we use
the throttle to drive the car, it is probably the biggest item.
Most TR6’s have either 2 or 3 carburetors with a single throttle plate in
each. Some TR5’s have six (PI cars),
though I believe they are ganged into
3 sets of two. Ask John Horten how
the PI throttle is set up. In any case,
Throttle body
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25
Intake
runners
we would like the airflow across each
throttle plate to be the same. That way,
the air/fuel charge is equal between
the carbs. That is why we spend so
much time “balancing” the carbs. Typically, we do this at idle and hope that it
is similar at higher flow rates. Another
aspect of throttle plates is tip in/low
throttle response. You want enough
throttle plate/intake throat area to not
impede max flow at max RPM while
at the same time have lots of control
at tip in for the throttle at very small
throttle movements. For a variety of
reasons I decided to get away from
the stock intake manifold set up, this
decision let me go to a single throttle
plate to common plenum setup. No
more balancing and easier to integrate
with the fuel injection computer and
idle control design. However, I wanted
max flow and therefore wanted a big
throttle plate. The compromise was a
GM throttle body that had a throttle
plate with a blanking piece on one
side, effectively only opening on one
side of the plate at small throttle open-
ings. The blanking piece has some effect at WOT (wide open throttle) but
not much. Additionally, I could use
a GM style idle air control scheme.
That is a small electrically controlled
auxiliary valve in the throttle body
that opens and closes by the fuel injection computer programing. It is
stepped more open when cold and
closes down when hot. The amount
of air flowing through this IACV (idle
air control valve) determines the idle
speed. It does have a feedback feature
wherein the computer constantly adjusts this valve to give you the idle
speed you programmed in.
My tip in response turned out perfect. However, I needed to ensure that
I could get WOT at full pedal depression. I extended the stock throttle lever to pick up the throttle cable that
then goes up to the throttle body. The
length of the lever determines the
amount of cable pull from the gas pedal up position to fully depressed pedal.
I have an adjustable stop on the intake
manifold that sets the up position and
the amount of pull is slightly more
than the amount of cable it takes to get
WOT on the throttle body. As I don’t
have any springs in the system other
than a small one at the throttle plate
and the stock one on the throttle lever.
That lever spring determines the gas
pedal ‘feel”. I did have to go through
several iterations of throttle springs to
give the right “feel” to the pedal. When
the springing was too light, it was easy
to get into the bucking bronco on the
gas pedal. Too heavy of a spring would
be fatiguing and hard to control at tip
in/small throttle openings. I am pretty
close right now but the spring is easy
to change in the future.
That brings us to intake manifold design. The most optimum place to put
fuel into an engine is directly into the
cylinder itself. However, that requires
very high fuel pressures, high temperature injectors and combustion chamber/cylinder head design. The next
position would be on the back side of
the hot intake valve. The closest we
can get is to inject into the intake port
from an injector positioned as close to
the head as possible. That is the highest flow point we can get to and has
the minimum amount of wall wetting
to the intake valve. Wall wetting is the
fuel that condenses out (when cold) or
just hits the wall of the intake runner.
As the wet wall gets fuel onto it, it also
evaporates fuel, affecting the air fuel
ration. Some of this can be compensated in the programming but keeping it
to a minimum is best. This is one reason why TBI (throttle body injection)
wasn’t as effective as single port injection schemes. Another reason is flow
rates due to intake runner lengths. Intake runner lengths directly affect the
amount of air entering the cylinder.
Different lengths will give different
charging. This can lead to significant
torque/HP gains or losses.
Ideally, we would like the same
length for all cylinders, tuned for the
expected operation of the engine.
Short runners are best suited for high
Throttle stop
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Summer 2013
RPM applications and longer runners
for lower RPM applications. Some
modern engines actually have two
sets to optimize engine operation in
different RPM bands. The TR6 engine
bay doesn’t lend itself to runner length
tuning, nor is the stock intake manifold set up very well for balance between cylinders. However, my design
gave me 20” of runner length from the
bell on each runner to its associated
intake valve. This is tuned for operation around 3600 RPM. My intake
runners ended being built in multiple pieces because when I mocked
it up, it didn’t look like I could access the manifold bolts with it as one
piece. So, I have a set of CNC flanges
with O-rings and the associated complexity. Examining the pictures you
can see I have good clearance for
this design in the engine bay. The
plenum and throttle body clear the
hood with about ¼” clearance.
The plenum is an extruded aluminum
piece that is close to the optimized volume of 2.5 times the capacity of the
engine. It is a constant cross section.
This isn’t optimum as the flows to the
rear most cylinder will be slightly different than that at the front cylinder.
A tapered plenum would be best but
fabricating it would be difficult. I have
attempted to compensate for the flow
difference by having different fueling
tables. One set of tables (and O2 sensor) for the front three cylinders and
another set for the back three cylinders. The plenum needs to have several air pressure (manifold pressure
1
2
Manifold pressure lines: Line to MS2 (1), Line to fuel pressure regulator (2)
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Summer 2013
or load) connections. One is to the
fuel injection computer, one to the
fuel pressure regulator, another to the
brake booster (while I had one that is)
and one for positive crankcase ventilation. Additionally, I used the plenum
to anchor the fuel rail. This provided a
handy and elegant solution.
Last but not least is air filtration.
From a flow perspective, you don’t
want to bolt the air filter onto the
throttle body. You want a long enough
pipe to smooth the airflow out before
it hits the throttle body but not be
too long or too small in diameter to
restrict max flow. Secondly, the best
air is cool air from outside the engine
compartment. This gives the best performance and is why many plumb air
hoses to the air filter box. I have an
air dam that blocks off the right front
corner of the engine compartment for
my air box. There are holes in the side
of the radiator cowling to provide cool
fresh air to my air filter. I can’t say if
my tubing length is optimum but II
got it all to fit in with the minimum of
modification to the car.
Air filter
The stock set up has a variety of issues, hot air intake, throttle plate balancing, not optimum runner length,
non equal runner length, excessive
wall wetting, and a throttle linkage
only Rube would be proud of. My set
up has eliminated all of these problems. However, if I had to do it again,
I would change the profile of the runner slightly. This would permit the
runners to be one piece and fabricat27
2
Coolant temperature sensor (1)
Idle air control valve (2)
Throttle position sensor (3)
ed out of mild steel tubing. The cost
would be significantly less than my
all aluminum manifold. Additionally, I could eke out another 1/2’” of
runner length too.
Control
To wrap this up, we need to control
both ignition timing and fueling. In
my previous article about the EDIS
ignition system, the MegaJolt controller controlled ignition timing based
on three inputs. A crank position sensor system that provided crank position and RPM to the Ford EDIS controller. The EDIS controller outputted
a RPM signal to the MegaJolt which
looked up an ignition advance value
based on RPM and intake manifold
pressure (load). The MegaJolt outputted this advance value to the EDIS and
the EDIS made the spark plugs fire
at the appropriate time. The look up
table was a 10 x 10 matrix of advance
values. The axes and the advance values are user settable. This MegaJolt
function has been taken over by my
fuel injection computer with the only
difference is the look up table is 12
x 12. The fuel injection computer allows for further control of the ignition
for specific operating conditions. The
first is a cold temperature advance
scheme which allows timing changes
based on coolant temperature in a 2
x 12 user settable look up table. Most
engines run better with some advance
when cold. The second is a Manifold
Air Temperature retard table. Again,
a user settable 2 x 6 table that allows
for retarding the timing when the
inlet air reaches high temperatures.
High inlet air temperatures make an
engine prone to knock which can be
prevented by retarding the timing.
Additionally, with the addition of a
knock sensor and processor, the fuel
injection computer can pull off timing
when it gets a knock input from the
knock sensor processor. Uncontrolled
knock can quickly destroy an engine
so is to be avoided if possible. The last
28 3
1
TR6 with similar engine build and
injector sizing, it would have been
much, much, easier. I basically started from scratch. If I could have used
someone else’s tune, I could have
saved many hours of programming
and it would have started right up.
ates a wasp nest of wires and requires
good planning of what and where. My
harness goes forward to the throttle
body for IACV control/TPS signal and
then goes forward to the CLT mounted
in the thermostat body in place of the
stock manifold coolant return. My intake manifold is a “dry” manifold and
therefore doesn’t require any heating.
As the harness comes to the back of the
engine, it connects the front three injectors to one bank and the next three
to the second bank. Then the MAT senor wires join followed by main power
and ground to go inside the cockpit to
the fuel injection controller.
That is all the elements to fuel inject
a TR6 except the programming. I am
using a MegaSquirt II controller. The
good thing with the MS II is it is very
versatile. The bad thing is it is very
versatile. If there had been another
thing is a RPM limiter, the fuel injection computer has 2 schemes for RPM
limiting, a soft limit that pulls timing
off based on RPM, and a hard limit
which can kill the fuel and ignition at
a set RPM. All of these control options
are user settable and programmable.
To do all this for the ignition side of
the house and to control the fuel side;
the controller needs a lot of information about the state of the engine.
There are two temperature sensors,
one for the coolant (CLT) and one for
the intake manifold air (MAT). There is
a throttle position sensor (TPS), an intake manifold pressure sensor, the two
O2 sensors (air/fuel ratio), the RPM
signal from the EDIS, and an ambient
air pressure sensor for barometric corrections. If you had a sequential injection scheme, you would need crank
position information. All of this cre6-PACK Magazine
The controller basically starts its fuel
computations based on a parameters
of the engine; number of cylinders,
displacement, injector size, number
of injector banks, how it should calculate the amount of air (I used the
combination of manifold pressure
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and RPM), and air fuel ratio. It then
references a set of tables, a VE table
and a AFR table (I use 2 of each, one
set for the front set of cylinders and
one set for the back). The VE table is
a table that gives the actual volumetric efficiency of the engine at each
RPM and manifold pressure point. It
is a 12 x 12 table with user set-able
axes. Based on these VE values the
computer dials back the computed
fuel amount. There is a software program “Tuner Studio” that helps automate the tuning of the VE table. The
AFR table is used in the closed loop
system as the AFR target to reach.
With the AFR information from the
O2 sensors, the computer and the
tuning software make adjustments to
reach these target values. That is for
a fully warmed up engine.
For cold starting there are several
schemes that need to be programmed.
First is when the computer first turns
on, while the engine is being cranked
by the starter, immediate light off,
then warmup. Most of these are both
adjustable for a straight value based on
CLT and then a taper based on time.
During this time the IACV also needs
to be programmed to close down while
warming up to control RPM. Then
there are both temperature and load
adjustments to the idle timing values
to further dial in engine operation at
idle. After all this, then you move on
to acceleration/de-acceleration adjustments. Both of these are based on
a combination of manifold pressure
change and TPS change.
So, I now have the ability to precisely
control timing and fuel for just about
every conceivable operational condition. I can therefore improve driveability and tune for more torque/
power without reaching destructive
knock. I will busy tweaking my tune
for years, much like others adjust their
ignition timing and carburetors to stay
in tune. My tune is never lost and will
just get better and better. 6-Pack
29
6-PACK Surrogate Buyer’s Network
6-PACK’s surrogate buyer network allows members interested in purchasing a car located away from their home an opportunity for an
honest, knowledgeable opinion before investing time or money to
personally inspect the car. Surrogate buyers are volunteers and are
not responsible for the final decision of the purchaser. The purchaser
using this service assumes all risks and responsibilities for the purchase transaction and for the condition of the vehicle before, during,
and after the purchase. The following members have volunteered to
be surrogate buyers. All members are welcome to add their names to
this growing list.
NorthWest
SouthWest
Dave Hammond – 1551 Ridge Way
Medford OR 97504
H (541) 858-0139 W (541) 776-3327
Colin Thom – 12666 14B Ave.
Surrey, BC V4A 1J6
(604) 542-2490 colinthom@shaw.ca
British Columbia, Washington &
Northern Oregon
Gary Fuqua – 131 Monterey Dr.
Branson, MO 65616
GSFuqua1@aol.com
Kansas City KS, St Louis MO, Tulsa OK,
Oklahoma City, OK, Fayetteville, Ar and
Amarillo/Lubbock, Tx.
John Phillips – 5865 E 480 RD,
Claremore, OK 74107
(918) 341-8903 tr6@atlasok.com
Northeast quadrant of Oklahoma
Steve Cordova – 1506 E. Renee Dr.
Phoenix, Arizona, 85024
W: (602) 406-4110 C: (602) 796-2668
Phoenix Metropolitan area
(25 miles each way)
Bruce Cooper
(281) 362-0536 coopertr8@charter.net
Houston Texas area and up to 100
miles away.
West
Dick Taylor – 7821 Harper Ave.,
Downey, CA 90241
taylorturbo@webtv.net
Los Angeles
Bruce Waller – 670 Pamlar Ave.
San Jose, CA 95128
(408) 298-1457
brucew@sierrabg.com
Ken Harris – 1251 El Portal Way
Oxnard, CA 93035
kendog@homemail.com
Midwest
David Luecke – 6609 Powner Farm Dr.,
Cincinnati, OH, 45248
(513) 574-4567 Greater Cincinnati
Greg Donegan – 2593 Bethlehem Ln.
Hebron, KY 41048
tr6greg@fuse.net Greater Cincinnati
Bill Moine - Northwest Ohio
bmoine@yahoo.com
60 miles of 44276 or 44805
Ken Crowley – 3117 Springcreek Rd,
Rockford, IL 61107
H (815) 654-9566 W (815) 965-0300
Northern Illinois and Southern Wisconsin,
including Chicago
Jeff Slaton – P.O. Box 1144,
Murray, KY 42071 (270) 759-9417
Western Kentucky
Jerry Zaccardelli – 13908 Woodset Ct,
Shelby Township, MI 48315
(586) 781-6781 zacpac@comcast.net
Detroit Metro
Mark Anderson – 4400 Douglas Drive,
Adrian, MI 49221 (517) 265-4110
triumphmotorltd@yahoo.com
All of Michigan, Northern Ohio, and
Northern Indiana
Irv Korey – 760 Barberry Road,
Highland Park, IL 60035
(847) 831-2809 C: (847) 922-1504 emanteno@comcast.net
Mark Johnson – 6291 Crooked Creek Dr
Mason, OH 45040
tr6me@cinci.r.com
Mike Roe – 10263 Oak Ridge Drive
Zionsville, IN 46077
(317) 270-3365
Central and Southern Indiana
30 Jim Wendel - 3 Marine Place,
Long Branch NJ, 07740 (917) 939-0047
pleasurebay@earthlink.net
SouthEast
Steve Wilson – 9078 Ridge Road,
Gulfport, MS 39503
(228) 326-1149 triumph72@juno.com
North to Hattiesburg, MS;
East to Mobile, AL; West to Slidell, LA.
R. Ashford Little – 4240 Wickersham Dr.
Atlanta, GA 30327
ralittle2@comcast.net
Greater Atlanta
Greg Lyall – Slidell, LA 70461
H (985) 640-6658
gnlyall@bellsouth.net
Vernon Grigsby – Blountsville, AL 35031
H (205) 429-376
vernon@otelco.net
James Henningsen - Greensboro, NC
(336) 632-9264 trguy@triad.rr.com
Raleigh to Charlotte to Winston-Salem to
Greensboro. Basically a 1 ½ hour circle
from Greensboro, NC
Chip Collingwood – 810 St Christophers Rd,
Richmond VA 23226
Cell: (804)564-1839
tr6racer21@earthlink.net
100 mile Richmond radius including DC,
VA Beach
Steven Kerwick - 12108 Weatherwood
Ests Dr. W. , Jacksonville, Fl. 32223
(904) 716-5431
up-n-atom@hotmail.com
South Georgia East, N. Florida East
(Jacksonville and surrounding)
95 South to Daytona
Mountain
Bud Rolofson - 220 Carr St.
Lakewood, Colorado 80226
(303) 941-5304 levilevi@attbi.com
Colorado - please contact for distance
NorthEast
Don McGilvery – 93 Newell Road,
Yarmouth, Maine 04096
(207) 846-3154 W (207) 767-1866
Southern Maine and southern
New Hampshire.
Kevin D. Thompson – 31 Stanhope Rd., E.
Falmouth, MA 02536
(508) 540-7401 ktnkt@cape.com
Cape Cod and southeastern MA
Bruce Schechter – Voorhees, NJ
H (856) 753-1557 C (609) 760-8198
bschechter@comcast.net
Bob Labuz – 113 Marnie Street
Deerfield, NY 13502
H (315) 732 0167 C (315) 794 5540
yellowtr@adelphia.net
Paul Rego – 30 Sunset Drive
Seekonk, MA 02771
H (508) 326-4854
brosky@74tr6.com
Ric Keller – 4078 NY RT 26,
Whitney Point, NY 13862
(607) 692 4543
keller_ric@hotmail.com
Syracuse, Elmira, Albany, and
Middletown, New York
Robert Liam Gannon (302) 234-1131
(Evenings only) trsix74@comcast.net
Delaware, Northern Maryland and
Southern New Jersey
Scotty Boyer – 1812 Van Reed Road,
Wyomissing, PA 19610
Eastern and Central Pennsylvania
Andrew Mumford – 7 Greenwood Drive,
Oil City PA 16301 (814) 676-2375
andrewmumford@verizon.net
John Cyganowski – (781) 929-9084
Janah@att.net Covering New England & Eastern Maine; will consider Southern CT and Western VT on a case by case basis
6-PACK Magazine
Non-Contiguous US
Mark Bullard – 221 Alala Rd.,
Kailua, HI 96734 (808) 263-0122
mbullard@verizon.net
Chapter News
Club Chapters
6-PACK recognizes the following Triumph and all-marque clubs as official chapters. You are encouraged
to join a chapter near you. If your area is not represented by an official 6-PACK chapter, or you would
like to form a new chapter, contact the 6-PACK Chapter Coordinator.
USA
CALIFORNIA
Triumph Travelers Sportscar
Club
Sunnyvale, Ca.
Jim Suddith
jnjsk@comcast.net
GEORGIA
Georgia Triumph Assc.
Ashford Little
PO Box 4198
Cumming, GA. 30041
ralittle2@mindspring.com
ILLINOIS
Illinois Sport Owners
Association
Jeff Rust
6236 Costwold Lane
Cherry Valley, IL 61016
itrmph2@comcast.net
Indiana
Indiana Triumph Cars
Nick Gray
nickgrayhome@comcaste.net
LOUISIANNA/MISSISSIPPI
Bayou Chapter
Steve Wilson
9078 Ridge Road
Gulfport, MS. 39503
triumph72@juno.com
MARYLAND
Triumphs Around The
Chesapeake,Ltd.(TRAC)
Gary Klein
8153 Quarterfield Farms Rd.
Severn, MD 21144
gk7211@gmail.com
MASSACHUSETTS
Cape Cod British Car Club
Kevin D. Thompson
ktnkt@comcast.net
New England Triumphs
Bob Totten
47 Brockton Ave.
Arlington, MA. 02351
Robertten1@aol.com
MICHIGAN
Group TR6
Mark Anderson
4400 Douglas Dr.
Adrian, MI 49221
triumphmotorltd@yahoo.com
The Triumph Lodge
Mark Uhlig
2676 Ashburton Court
Oakland Township, MI 48306
triumphlodge@comcast.net
NEW JERSEY
Garden State 6-PACK
Stuart Honick
1714 Dianne Court
Linwood, NJ, 8221
stuclare@comcast.net
NORTH CAROLINA
TR Club of Carolinas
Siler City, NC
Kevin Andrews
kandrews@charter.net
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Summer 2013
OHIO
Buckeye Triumphs
Central Ohio
Murry Mercier
6721 Marketwood St.
Worthington, OH 43085
TRSixer@yahoo.com
Texas Triumph Register
Jeff Harris
P.O. Box 40847
Houston, Texas 77240-0847
jharrisspe@yahoo.com
North Coast Triumph Assc.
Bob Palmer
7115 Ridge Rd.
Parma, OH 44129
triumphbob@aol.com
VIRGINIA
Capital Triumph Register
Richard Smalling
34 Lipscomb Ct.
Sterling, VA. 20165
rjsmalling@aol.com
Tri State Triumphs
Todd Bermudez
6518 Ambar Ave.
Cincinnati, OH 45230
red_tr250@yahoo.com
Richmond Triumph Register
Chip Collingwood
3314 Stuart Ave
Richmond, VA. 23221
tr6racer21@earthlink.net
OKLAHOMA
Green Country Triumphs
John P. Phillips
5865 E. 480 RD
Claremore, OK 74017
tr6@atlasok.com
Tidewater Triumph Register
Dale Morgan
4105 Terry Dr
Chesapeake, VA. 23321
DMorgan.ttr@cox.net
PENNSYLVANIA
Triumphs of Armagh
John Swauger
The Roadster Factory
NEW YORK
ChapTR6
Ric Keller
4078 NY RT 26
Whitney Point, N.Y. 13862
keller_ric@hotmail.com
Canada
David Tushingham – 819 Firth Court,
Newmarket Ontario L3Y 8H7
H (905) 830 9124 C: (416)419 2201
GTA (Greater Toronto Area) and
York Region (North of Toronto)
David Fidler – 2421 Poplar Crescent,
Mississauga, Ontario, L5J 4H2
(647) 290 9751
DJFidler@rogers.com
Within 100 miles west of Toronto,
including the Niagara peninsula.
Martin Burtt - 6727 Farmstead Ridge
North Gower, ON, K0A 2T0
613-489-1223 burtt@sympatico.ca
Ottawa and Eastern Ontario within 100km
Colin Thom – 12666 14B Ave.
Surrey, BC V4A 1J6
(604) 542-2490 colinthom@shaw.ca
British Columbia, Washington &
Northern Oregon
From Kevin...
TENNESSEE
East Tennesee 6-PACK
Tim Ramsey
PO Box 24081
Knoxville, TN 37933
tbramsey0404@yahoo.com
TEXAS
Hill Country Triumph Club
Wiley Christal
4 Misty Woods
Round Rock, TX 78664
wiley@razorbackroad.com
CANADA
ONTARIO/QUEBEC
401-Pack
David Tushingham
819 Firth Court
New Market, ON, L3Y 8H7
canada6pack@rogers.com
ALBERTA
The Wildrose Chapter
Dave More
32 Scanlon P1.NW
Calgary, AB
T3L 1V8
yyctr6@shaw.ca
Hello 6-PACK Chapters.
Summer is all but over here in the
south. Trials will be over by the
time you read this. I wasn’t able
to go this year because, as some
of you know, we have recently
purchased a house and will be
moving. Final painting is being
done and we hope to be settled in
by early fall. It’s a big change for
us, but it is well worth it. My address will change as well as my
e-mail. I will have the revised address once things get in order.
All Chapters, be sure to send in
any pictures or articles on your
events. We could sure use them.
If there is any change to your
Chapter information or contact
person please forward it to me so
I can get that updated.
And be sure to check out the forums. A lot of hard work has been
put into the forums for us all to
enjoy and get useful information.
So until the next time,
Keep’m straight
Kevin Andrews
6-Pack Chapter Coordinator
Guidelines for Chapters
A “Chapter” needs to have at least six current 6-PACK national members.
The “Chapter” can only be made up of current 6-PACK members. (Current
meaning dues are paid).
The national 6-PACK club does not require, nor will it ask for, funding
to become a Chapter. The dues paid to become a 6-PACK national member are the only dues payable.
The Chapters do not speak for, or act on behalf of the national 6-PACK
club in areas such as sponsorship, endorsements, association support or contractual agreements. Any issues relating to this must first
go through the 6-PACK Chapter Coordinator and then the Coordinator
forwards them to the Chairman for review and voting by the Board if so
deemed/merited by the Chairman.
The Chapter “membership” is fully responsible for all their actions
at all times and in all situations. The national 6-PACK club will not be
6-PACK Magazine
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Summer 2013
held accountable or liable in any way, shape or form, for any accidents,
death, inquiry, property damage or any other nasty things happening
when they meet, get together or assemble.
The Chapter needs to appoint a key contact so the Coordinator can
communicate. They need to have a cool chapter “name”.
They are required to submit at least one article/report or picture per
calendar year, on what their chapter has done, to the Editor of the magazine. The person writing the article/report for the magazine will get a free
copy of that issue.
The Chapter is to be a point of reference/source for feedback and ideas
to improve the National Club experience.
It is expected that a Chapter would be willing to host our National
TRials event.
Inter-Chapter meetings and activities are encouraged.
31
Calendar Car
This 250 started out in 2009 as a very sorry example of the species. It was originally
intended to have a restoration and an engine swap for something with a bit more oomph.
Somewhere along the way things went a little over the top. It has had a full restoration
and a number of upgrades. These include an LS2 engine and T56 transmission mated to
a custom tubular spaceframe, using Corvette C5 running gear. Designed as an updated
tribute to the Shell Rally TR4s, it was completed in June 2013 and was...
...first seen at the 2013 TRials in Michigan.
Model: TR250
Year: 1968
Colour: Wedgewood Blue
Commission: CD6000L
Owner: Alan Atkinson - since 2009 (completed 2013)
Location: New York
Photos: by owner
To have your car considered, please send your best photo to: editor@6-pack.org. Photos must be high quality and a minumum size of 2048 x 1536 pixels