“THAT`S THE BEST HOLIDAY I HAVE EVER HAD!”

CORINNA’S GENTLE CHARMS {P8} SWISSOTEL SYDNEY’S SPECIAL SUITE FOR KIDS {P8}
DESTINATION
GOLDEN KEYS
TO THE CITY
AUSTRALIA
Concierges across
the nation
reveal all {P6}
MAY 8-9, 2010
Howe
totally
divine
Try this beauty of a NSW island
for instant rejuvenation
SUSAN KUROSAWA
SIT back, get comfortable and
re-luxe. That’s the clear message at
Lord Howe Island’s Capella
Lodge, where owners James and
Hayley Baillie undertook what
they describe as a ‘‘glam-over’’ last
year to bring the isle’s best digs up a
design notch or two.
Not that Capella Lodge was
lacking in five-star charm but the
fastidious Baillies, who have fast
become Australia’s leading visionaries of the luxury lodge accommodation genre, just thought a
fresh boost of glamour was in
order. The Baillies bought Capella
Lodge, set amid tilted emerald pastures and kentia palms on the
southern reaches of the island, in
2004 and did an almost instant
‘‘barefoot luxury’’ makeover, but
the new-look digs are more inviting than ever.
There are still just nine guestrooms, including two suites, all
merrily in a row, of which the toptariff accommodation, the Lidgbird Pavilion, is the star attraction.
It’s a two-storey pad with a plunge
pool, capacious deck and upstairs
and downstairs bathrooms, plus
an additional outdoor shower and
tub shaded by frangipani. The pavilion is as big as a city apartment,
but few urban digs could boast
such a view.
Framed by the top storey’s bedroom window-wall and its deck
are the granite guardian peaks
of Mt Lidgbird and Mt Gower,
and I wager many guests return
home from Capella Lodge and
download pictures of that view as a
screen-saver.
It’s not just the majesty of the
scenery but the moodiness of the
weather, the low clouds and bustling winds, the purity of the air and
the unsullied landscape, the gymkhana ribbon blue of the deep sea;
all the reviving elements that
make time-stalled Lord Howe
Island one of Australia’s most
inviting destinations. So ensnaring, in fact, that Lord Howe Island
has just been ranked No 1 across
Australia for visitor satisfaction in
a Tourism Research Australia
Visitor Profile Satisfaction Report.
Apparently 94 per cent of visitors
were satisfied with their trip there;
I can’t imagine why the remaining
6 per cent could be unhappy,
unless it is the sorry lack of discos,
malls and tanning salons.
It is my fourth visit here and I
hope not my last; just stepping off
the quick QantasLink flight from
Sydney (after a service of non-stop
snacks and drinks from a genuinely happy attendant) and seeing
cows beside the runway is enough
to bring one down to earth.
The airport terminal is little more
than a tidy shed and the representatives (pressed shorts, ruddy
cheeks) from lodges, guesthouses
and motels waiting in its pretty
garden seem to be radar-equipped
when it comes to spotting their
passengers.
Capella Lodge’s guests, perhaps
simply identifiable by their smug
smiles at what they know lies in
store, are met by managers Libby
or Mark, who point out some of
the island’s low-key attractions
during the short drive back to base.
The speed limit, Libby explains, is
25km/h, no one locks their doors
and an honesty-box system prevails at places such as the ninehole golf club and at Neds Beach,
where snorkelling and beach
sports equipment is casually
stored in a shed.
There is one policeman on
the island and no crime worth
mentioning, unless you count
birds nicking your picnic sandwiches. The difference between
masked bandits and masked boobies, perhaps.
The population of Lord Howe is
about 350 and visitor numbers are
capped at 400 at a time (no campers). It’s like being back in the
1950s, immersed in a Famous Five
novel where parents never question their children’s safety as long
as they are home in time for tea, of
course served with milk fresh from
an on-tap cow.
I instantly feel younger, less
troubled, on Lord Howe Island;
with its crisp air and soothing
landscapes, the tourism authorities should market it as a rejuvenation destination. Forget nipsand-tucks and Botox jabs: this
island can deliver a face-lift, or
at least an uplift of one’s spirits, in
Lidgbird Pavilion, Capella Lodge’s star attraction, is as big as a city apartment, but few urban digs could boast such a view
Neds Beach is a protected marine zone of almost unimaginable beauty on the island’s east coast
five days. Once I am installed at
Capella Lodge, it’s evident the
glam-over has meant a complete
design intervention in the Lidgbird Pavilion. The downstairs
bathroom has dark Basaltina-tiled
walls, the floors of the main rooms
are shiny recycled blackbutt,
futuristic floor lamps loom like
praying mantises, swivel chairs by
Tom Stepp are divinely comfy (I
warrant you’ll be saving, as I am, to
buy one), there are dozens of tunes
pre-programmed on the Bose CD
player and there is an EcoSmart
methylated-spirits-fuelled fire for
cooler nights (with Bemboka merino wool throw rug to hand).
The Baillies were EcoSmart’s
first commercial customers in
2004; now the Australian company exports across the world.
Screen-printed hemp and linen
fabrics in marine and earth pastels
are by Sydney artist Julie Paterson
of Cloth. The white colour theme,
wicker light-shades and hanging
outdoor seats, a telescope trained
at those stately mountains, and an
abundance of daybeds, creates a
perfect beach-hideaway vibe with
a slightly retro twist.
‘‘People no longer want beach
holiday houses with chipped Formica and chenille bedspreads,’’
says James Baillie. I know what he
means: how we love to trot out
cherished memories of long-ago
holidays, and wax fondly about
bunk beds and fish and chips. But
when we’re done with repolishing
these gems of childhood past,
No one locks their doors on Lord Howe Island
we actually want the quality
bedding and good wine we feel we
now deserve.
‘‘Our regular guests even told us
what they wanted to see in the
makeover so it became a bit of a
club thing with everyone wanting
some input,’’ continues James.
For instance, the Baillies have
kept many of the original lodge’s
linocuts in declaring tropical colours by Mambo artist Bruce
Goold; the main lodge area has
been gently freshened but there’s
no point in going glitzy with that
amazing twin-peaks view as the
chief attention-grabber.
James speaks of the ‘‘sensory
details’’ of the refurb, from handmade leather door-handles to
smooth-flowing sinks by Victorian company Omvivo, which rather resemble the whimsical Orbit
City modernities of The Jetsons.
The Baillies have used Australian
suppliers to dress the rooms,
including toiletries from Adelaide-based Small Indulgences
(vanilla and gingerlily shampoo,
lime cassis body wash, lavender
and mint hand rinse). On hand are
snacks such as quince-flavoured
green tea and earl grey with
mallow and cornflower blossoms
from T Bar, and apricots dipped
in white chocolate and a walkabout mix with deliciously tart
dried cranberries.
Walkabout is exactly the formula for my three-day stay on this
World Heritage-listed isle, but little of it at any great pace. The
Lidgbird Pavilion comes with its
own electric cart, which makes
tootling into the village, past
Lovers Bay and Lagoon Beach, a
breeze. But guilt about food input
versus energy output gets the better of me by day two and I abandon
it beside the airport’s southern
fence (key in ignition; no one steals
it), and walk, past skittering
woodhens and traffic signs warning of mutton birds on the road.
Capella Lodge also provides
bikes to its guests; cycling is an
ideal way to get around the island
and don’t forget to wave at everyone you pass. Lord Howe is 11km
long and less than 3km across at its
broadest point; it is ‘‘lost in time’’,
says James, rather happily.
I lunch at Pandanus (excellent
breakfasts and dinners are
included in the Capella Lodge
rate) on Anderson Road and the
chef trots from his kitchen, past
the rack of bikes outside the
adjoining Pandanus Apartments,
to snip fresh oregano for the pizza
topping from a flourishing patch
that includes parsley, chillis and
cherry tomatoes, against a backdrop of laden pawpaw trees and
the ever-present kentia palms.
My table is on a covered veranda and it feels a bit like eating at a
friend’s house; I keep bumping
into the chatty waitress on my
walks the following day and she
greets me with the sort of oldfashioned courtesy you rarely
encounter outside country towns.
I also buy lunch at the happily
cluttered Thompson’s Store: good
old-fashioned hamburgers with
beetroot and shredded iceberg lettuce from the takeaway counter.
At the next table on the sun terrace, a group of teenagers are planning a party; they don’t look all
that rebellious and surely what
tourists find so charming about
this island is what must send
its young people off to more exciting climes.
I can’t imagine this lot doing
much more than hooning along at
a roaring 30km/h and hurling a
beer can at a cow.
The weather is cool and blustery this October and swimming is
not an option, sadly, although I
paddle at Neds Beach, a protected
marine zone of almost unimaginable beauty on the island’s east
coast, and feed bread (Thompson’s
Store has ‘‘fish loaves’’) to the
swarms of huge kingfish that rocket around my feet all but nibbling
at my ankles and toes. Snorkelling
is a treat here, too, with the expectation of parrotfish, spangled emperors and brilliant coral; Lord
Howe Island’s fringing reef is the
world’s most southerly.
A morning tour of the kentia
palm nursery is much more interesting than I had imagined. These
Continued on Page 6
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6 DESTINATION AUSTRALIA
THE WEEKEND AUSTRALIAN, MAY 8-9, 2010
www.theaustralian.com.au
Keys to
the cities
Concierges across the country
reveal their best insider tips
CHRISTINE McCABE
Sydney, chief concierge Colin
Toomey reckons guests are
spoiled for choice, with a slew of
standout restaurants within easy
striking distance of the hotel’s harbourside position: Uccello at Ivy;
the new Sake (12 Argyle St) and the
more relaxed Pony in the Rocks,
‘‘serving tapas-sized modern Australian dishes’’.
Toomey says the new Rockpool
Bar & Grill is very popular while
the Steel Bar and Grill (on
Carrington Street near the Old
Menzies Hotel) does a mean steak.
For food with a view, look no
further than Altitude on the
Shangri-La’s 36th floor, he says.
‘‘And if guests are in need of a
strong coffee, I send them round
the corner to Brew on Harrington
Street, which boasts an excellent
barista.’’ His recommended nightclubs include Tank (Bridge Lane)
and Arq (Flinders Street, Darlinghurst). And if you’re lucky, Colin
will get you access to the exclusive
De Nom at Ruby Rabbit on
Oxford Street. Sightseeing? See
the harbour from a private yacht
or motor cruiser with your own
skipper (courtesy East Sail) or join
a 7am behind-the-scenes tour of
the Opera House.
James Cunningham, chief
concierge at Brisbane’s stylish
Emporium Hotel, recommends
Belle Epoque (‘‘a slice of Paris in
Brisbane’’), Ortiga (‘‘Simon Hill’s
latest restaurant, featuring a tapas
bar on the ground level and a formal dining room downstairs’’) and
The Euro, ‘‘a more casual but just
as stylish alternative to its sister
venue, the recently spruced-up
Urbane’’.
Aria, the Matt Moran Sydney
offshoot, is perfect ‘‘for serious
foodies’’, he says. For coffee look
no further than Campos or Little
Larder, a pint-sized cafe in New
FLY FREE
It’s a Lord Howe first!
Andrew Natoli
Colin Toomey
James Cunningham, at Brisbane’s Emporium Hotel, is a mine of information about the city’s best eateries and other attractions
Farm with ‘‘eggs benedict to die
for’’. After dark, Cunningham suggests you stay in-house to enjoy
the Emporium’s acclaimed Cocktail Bar or try Cloudland, Brisbane’s answer to Sydney’s Ivy.
Alternatively, the X & Y Bar has
live music seven nights. Sightseers
should pack their walking shoes
and explore Brisbane on foot, says
Cunningham; the city’s River
Walk connects more than 20km of
pathways, roads, bridges and parks
along the Brisbane River.
InterContinental Adelaide
concierge Daniel Reilly recommends Bistro Dom, a tiny, stylish
eatery on Waymouth Street and,
for lunch, Insieme, a smart new
Italian eatery run by two sisters
at 63 Flinders St. Chianti Classico
is an Adelaide institution and does
the best breakfast in town, he says,
while bistro-style Cos is good
for steak.
After dark, Reilly points guests
to the cosy booths at Spats for coffee and dessert (King William
Road, Goodwood), the bar in the
Spanish-Italian Osteria de Mesa
(Glen Osmond Road, Frewville)
and the Cork Wine Cafe ( Gouger
Street), which offers flights of wine
and late-night tapas.
Night owls might like to check
out Reilly’s suggestion of Zhivago
near Light Square, a laidback club
with a mixed crowd.
Sightseeing? Don’t miss the
pandas at Adelaide Zoo, the Cen-
Daniel Reilly
Taya Reid
Phil Cummings
Luke Ashcroft
Kate Eckel
tral Market (with coffee at Lucia’s)
and glassblowers at work in the
Jam Factory (19 Morphett St).
At The Richardson Hotel in
Perth, senior assistant manager
and erstwhile concierge Taya
Reid points guests towards the
eco-savvy Greenhouse on
St Georges Terrace, where the
walls are smothered in strawberry
plants and the rooftop hosts a bar
and garden. Cool new bars include
Clarences in up-and-coming
Mount Lawley, five minutes from
the city, where wood panelling and
candlelight make for a sophisticated vibe. Or try The Garden, a
chic outdoor room adjoining the
popular Leederville Hotel.
‘‘Our clientele tend to favour
special dining experiences,’’ Reid
says. ‘‘I generally recommend The
Richardson’s own Opus or Star
Anise [Shenton Park] for dinner,
and Zafferano, on the river,
for lunch.’’
The Subiaco Hotel and Little
Creatures in Fremantle are great
fun, she says; the latter is a boutique brewery and dining hall
(once a crocodile farm). For outstanding coffee, Richardson’s
guests need only pop around the
corner to Epic Espresso on
Outram Street. And weekend visitors should make time to explore
the Saturday farmers’ market in
Subiaco, where Reid recommends
the breakfast pizza.
In Hobart, The Henry Jones
Art Hotel’s concierge Phil
Cummings promises guests they
don’t have to walk far to enjoy
some of the city’s best, starting
with the hotel’s own fine dining
restaurant (Henry’s Harbourside)
and a new series of guided walks,
conducted by the hotel’s resident
historian Warren Glover (concluding with a champers or beer in
the funky IXL Long Bar).
Beyond the hotel’s doors,
Cummings recommends Monty’s
on Montpelier (‘‘with a superb
cheese selection and great wine
list’’), the stylish Source restaurant
at Moorilla Estate (where the
much vaunted MONA is opening
next year) and Plum on Salamanca Square for great Tasmanian produce. Cummings frequents
the buzzy Zum Cafe (on Salamanca) but the nearby Retro Cafe
also does ‘‘wonderful food’’. After
dark, try Cargo ‘‘for beautiful cocktails’’ or the nearby Bar Celona.
Seagoing sightseers might like to
book a Bruny Island Eco Cruise or
jump a Navigators vessel up the
Derwent for lunch at Moorilla.
Luke Ashcroft, assistant manager of the concierge desk at the
Hyatt Hotel Canberra, says guests
frequently dine in-house at the
Promenade Cafe or the finedining Axis (also run by Hyatt) at
the National Museum of Australia. He’s also quick to recommend The Chairman & Yip
(Bunda Street, City) for exciting
Chinese fusion cuisine, the perennially popular Ottoman in Barton,
WatersEdge in Parkes and Mezzalira in the City (fine Italian dining in an old bank building).
‘‘Sage, in the Gorman House
Arts Centre, offers a very intimate
dining experience,’’ he says. ‘‘Next
morning duck out for pastries and
coffee at the stylish Silo Bakery in
Kingston.’’
After dark, the Hippo Lounge
Bar in the City and Julep Lounge in
Manuka host a sophisticated
crowd. Ashcroft urges sightseers
not to forget Old Parliament
House, now that the National Portrait Gallery has been shifted. ‘‘The
guided tours are great,’’ he says.
Kate Eckel is duty manager at
the new Medina Grand Darwin
Waterfront, where the in-house
Curve restaurant is one of her top
picks. Add to this: Buzz Cafe in
Cullen Bay, with fantastic water
and marina views; Hanuman on
Mitchell Street downtown for
Thai, Indian and Nonya; and Char
Restaurant on the Esplanade for
steaks. Thailicious, upstairs and
overlooking Mitchell Street, is fun,
Kate says, as is the offbeat Nirvana
(Dashwood Crescent), with an
eclectic menu and jazz-blues
most nights.
It’s Mindil Market season
(Thursday and Sunday), Kate says,
but do check out the laksas at the
year-round Saturday morning
Parap Village Market.
A Swiss chef turns out great pastries at Bar Espresso (on Mitchell
Street), she says, and after dark
make for Monsoons (‘‘having a bit
of a renaissance’’) or the Sand Bar
in the Sky City Casino for
cocktails.
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1 0 050 2 _3 6 135
A HOTEL concierge is marked by
their lapel badge of a pair of crossed golden keys. If you are new to a
city, seek out this badge and make
its bearer your new best friend.
They know the finest places to eat
and drink, and generally have
some savvy advice on sightseeing
outside the town square.
Many smaller hotels don’t run
to a concierge desk but the duty
manager can usually point you
in the right direction. So, what’s
hot to trot across the country?
Travel & Indulgence asked some of
Australia’s leading concierges and
front-desk stalwarts.
The Sofitel Melbourne’s
concierge Andrew Natoli recommends Maze and Maze Grill, the
new Gordon Ramsay nosheries in
the Crown Metropol. His favourite small-scale eateries include
Coda on Flinders Lane (a basement restaurant with a standout
chef, Adam D’Sylva, and ‘‘a very
funky, industrial dining space’’)
and Gills Diner (Little Collins
Street), ‘‘a little bit like a school
canteen, with old wooden tables
and great rustic fare in the slow
food vein’’.
Natoli says Melburnians in the
know lunch at Journal Canteen, a
quirky, upstairs eatery on Flinders
Lane (when not serving food, it’s a
classroom). Barflies should check
out the very cool Cabinet (‘‘up
Rainbow Alley, past some bins,
then up a flight of stairs, with a
balcony overlooking Swanston’’),
Hells Kitchen (Centre Place) or
the swanky Left Bank (on Southbank) and Spice Market on
Beaney Lane.
Sightseeing? Take a themed
walking tour (try Hidden Secrets)
and on a Sunday afternoon join
locals in the busy Belgian Beer
Garden (557 St Kilda Rd).
At the Shangri-La Hotel
Howe totally divine
Eyre
Lake tor
t
s
e
larg d Opera
9’s
200 & Groun
Air
Continued from Page 5
Bonus Value
Up to $4300
per couple
For colour brochures contact toll free:
1800
025 261
Or visit www.heronairlines.com.au
T 02 9918 4355 W capellalodge.com.au
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now from $3720*
trees grow with abandon on the
island and their seeds are collected and germinated until the
feathery palms — popular in the
Victorian era as parlour palms,
and always reserved for the front
room, where visitors would be
received — are about 25cm tall
and ready to be sent to commercial nurseries.
Also deserving of a lingering
visit is the Lord Howe Island
Museum, which houses the visitors’ centre, a souvenir shop
(hand-printed tea-towels are a
good memento) and convivial
cafe. Check the noticeboard for
details of film mornings and
evening presentations on
geology, birds, flora and fauna,
history and marine life by resident naturalists Ian Hutton and
Chris Murray.
The museum’s displays are
dedicated to the glory days of the
flying boat service (ladies arriving
in hats, heels and belted frocks,
just like my mother on holiday)
and the island’s sometimes
unlikely history.
It was first spotted on February
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88K/-(,
A rejuvenating view from
Capella Lodge
17, 1788 by Lieutenant Henry
Lidgbird Ball, commander of the
HMS Supply; he named the rocky
eminence after Richard Howe, a
British Admiral.
It was a fortuitous choice
considering the many possible
permutations of Howe. Even
after less than a day on this blessed isle, Howe totally divine
sounds about right.
Capella Lodge was named a
member of the Kurosawa
Collection in The Australian’s
Travel & Tourism Awards;
the Baillies’ property on
Kangaroo Island, Southern
Ocean Lodge, won the Best
Lodge Accommodation
category (T&I, February 20-21).
Checklist
Tariff at Capella Lodge includes
gourmet breakfasts, sunset
drinks, three-course dinners with
selected wines, non-alcoholic
beverages and island airport
transfers. Premium suites include
complimentary in-room bar.
There’s a winter promotion of
stay seven nights, pay for six and
receive free airfares from
Sydney, Brisbane or Port
Macquarie; from $3900 a person
twin-share. Or there is a stay
four and pay for three nights deal
from $1950 a person twin-share
(airfares not included). Both
specials are valid to September 11.
Capella Lodge also has
Sophisticated Solo deals for
single travellers at twin-share
rates on selected dates.
More: (02) 9918 4355;
baillielodges.com.au.