Think pink Precious oils

Transcription

April 2014
For your beauty and spa business
Think pink
We speak to Orly
founder Jeff Pink
GCC
Precious oils
The latest in spa
skincare
straight
straighttalk
Boost your business
OFC PBGCC APR14.indd 65
with hair-smoothing treatments
20/03/2014 11:07
D.Trade
Ad Middle
East_FINAL.indd
Spa
Resources
ELEMIS
DPS.indd 2 1
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YOUR BRITISH SKINCARE PARTNER FOR SUCCESS
We are your specialists in high-tech, clinically proven skin
formulations and treatments, enhanced with nature’s
purest technology.
SIX REASONS TO PARTNER WITH ELEMIS
1
Clinically trialled anti-ageing facials
2
Unrivalled retail sales = maximum profit
3
Affordable opening offer
4
Bespoke support package
5
Business-focused education
6
Award-winning marketing support
Start your journey with Elemis today
+971 4 3245414
info@spa-resources-international.com
elemismiddleeast
Spa Resources ELEMIS DPS.indd 3
@Elemisme
www.elemis.ae
Visit us on
Stand 3A23 Hall 2
04/02/2014
18:14
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contents
professionalbeauty.co.uk
professionalbeauty.ae
4
Published by and (C) 2014 Trade
Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC.
Registered at Dubai Media City.
321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE
t: +971 (0)56 352 2906
Trade Exhibitions &
Publishing FZ LCC
Editor:
Fiona Vlemmiks
fiona@professionalbeauty.ae
Contributors:
Shirin Abdulrazak,
Suzanne Braithwaite, Sally Hewerdine,
Helen Marchant, Eve Oxberry
Advertising:
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Andrew Green
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Publisher:
Mark Moloney
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Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck
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The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or
omissions contained in this publication, however
caused. The opinions and views contained in this
publication are not necessarily those of the publishers.
Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before
acting on information contained in this publication,
which is provided for general use and may not be
appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances.
The publisher accepts no responsibility for any
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Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with
advertisers must make their own enquiries.
18
in this issue...
Regulars
7
14
facebook/PBGCC
@PBGCC
News
The latest issues impacting
our industry including spa
and salon launches and
openings throughout
the GCC
Insider
Our exclusive monthly
stats for beauty salons,
spas and nail salons
24 Ask the experts
The low-down on how to
create brand awareness
of your salon, working
with teenage clients
and much more
Features
37 Nail bites
Our new dedicated nail
news section
18
58 Treatment news
The emphasis is on luxury
this issue with tried and
tested royal hammam and
diamond facial experiences
35 A Walk on the wild side
Leopard-inspired nail art from
Artistic Nail Design
61
71
New products
We focus on eye products
alongside the newest
offerings to hit the market
Calendar
The essential dates for
your business diary,
from trade shows to
conferences and training
Going for golden
How spray tanning could grow
your business
42 Face value
Lydia Espin on why opening her
first salon was worth the wait
45 Shirin speaks
Our new columnist Shirin
Abdulrazak looks at how to
prevent staff poaching
47 The French Connection
We catch up with the woman
behind Sofitel’s So Spa
51
The Big Freeze
Cryotherapy uncovered
54 Crowing glory
We predict the biggest hair
trends this season
66 Reading needs
Our guide to excellent
customer service
68 Money matters
Helen Merchant helps us get
to grips with finance
Cover Image: Courtesy of Maria Dowling
Professional Beauty GCC April 2014
4-5 PBGCC APR14 Contents.indd 4
20/03/2014 11:08
welcome
5
W
e’ve been overwhelmed by the industry backing for our first
issue. It confirms that you understand and support our raison
d’être; to educate, expand and create greater cohesion in the
GCC beauty and spa industry.
One area that I believe still has untapped potential is the self-tanning sector. We may
enjoy guaranteed sunshine, but our clients are increasingly educated on the damaging
effects of the sun and spray tans offer a quick, attractive and skin-healthy solution. With a
good mark-up, little downtime and the potential for repeat bookings, spray tanning could
be an extremely viable option for your business. Turn to page 18 to learn more.
This month we’re pleased to unveil Nail bites, a new section dedicated to all things nail
related.We have also broadened our content to include hair news and features. In this issue
we showcase the latest industry trends and report on innovative hair-smoothing treatments.
Operating in a saturated market means spa managers must be ahead of the game. Yet,
through lack of financial experience, some are unable to interpret financial data effectively
– missing business opportunities and overlooking threats. Spa consultant Helen Merchant
explains the importance of getting to grips with finance on page 68.
President of the French spa association SpaA, Aldina Duarte Ramos is
a tour de force. I caught up with her during a recent visit to Dubai,
where she provided enlightenment on the philosophy behind
the Sofitel So Spa rebrand and its maverick spa menu.
Be inspired by her words on page 47.
I hope you enjoy this issue as much as the last.
Fiona Vlemmiks – EDITOR
54
51
On the cover
32 Think Pink
The hottest nail trends
set to hit the market for
spring and summer
39 Precious oil
Take a more targeted
approach to body
skincare
57 Straight talk
Hair-smoothing
treatments explained
35
32
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news
7
NEWS
All the news and views
from the world of beauty
and spa
Sisters Beauty Lounge targets roll-out
via hotels following St. Regis deal
S
isters
Beauty
Lounge
has
outlined plans to open a series
of beauty salons within fivestar hotels in the UAE region, following
the announcement of a luxurious new
facility at The St. Regis Abu Dhabi, the
five-star luxury hotel located in the
iconic Nation Towers.
This is the company’s second branch
in the UAE Capital, and will bring the
total number of Sisters branches to six
in the country, plus one franchise outlet
in Astana, Kazakhstan.
Sara Abdulrazak, managing director
of Sisters Beauty Lounge, said: “We
are very honoured to be associated
with such a reputable brand as The
St. Regis, Abu Dhabi. We feel that our
decade of work has definitely paid off
to be chosen to operate within a hotel
of this calibre.”
Sisters is offering its signature
services at its new branch, with
the exception of facials and body
treatments, which will be provided by
the hotel’s dedicated spa.
“We
want
to
highlight
our
international hair team – experts we
recruited from Australia, England,
Syria, Russia and Morocco – including a
master stylist from Italy.
“Since the location is in a five-star
hotel, we now have a mix of male and
female hairdressers. We will have a
dedicated bar for lash extensions and
bespoke brows. We will also specialise
in bridal beauty as the hotel offers a
ballroom for weddings and a bridal suite
for treatments,” continued Abdulrazak.
Commenting on the Sisters’ expansion
strategy, Abdulrazak said the company
hopes to open more branches in other
five-star establishments, particularly
within the Starwood group, operator of
The St. Regis Hotel chain. “Most hotels
prefer to focus on their signature spas
and they need an established beauty
salon partner like Sisters who are
experts in salon services. We intend to
fill that gap with many more branches
in hotels in the near future.”
Vampire facial “banned” in Dubai
An extreme anti-ageing facial that
involves extracting then reinjecting
blood into a client’s face has been
temporarily banned by the Dubai Health
Authority (DHA).
The platelet rich plasma (PRP)
procedure, commonly known as the
vampire facial, has been banned across
the city until regulations can be put in
place.
The procedure involves collecting
blood from the client into small tubes,
which are then placed in a centrifuge
to separate the red blood cells from the
plasma. The plasma is then collected and
either injected into the patient’s face, or
applied to the skin via a dermal rollering
technique to help promote tissue healing
and cell regeneration.
It has been popularised in recent
months by celebrity fans including reality
star Kim Kardashian.
The Dubai Health Authority has
ruled that because the treatment is
relatively new, it should be stopped while
regulations are finalised, according to
Gulf News
A therapist in the USA was arrested in
February after a client died following a
botched vampire facial in her California
beauty salon.
AND Trading’s opens
new branch in Doha
Qatar’s largest beauty company AND
has announced the opening of the latest
branch of its Jean Louis-David salon brand.
Located on the ground floor of the
Crowne Plaza Hotel – The Business Park,
the 80sqm facility offers a full range of
beauty products and services as part of the
company’s growth and expansion plans
across Doha.
It is the third branch of the Jean LouisDavid brand, which offers services that
include hair, beauty and nails. The new
Business Park is a prime location that is
adjacent to Doha International Airport.
7-10 PBGCC APR14 News.indd 7
20/03/2014 16:21
news
8
Deyaar Developments kicks
off major spa development
plans with Dubai launch
R
eal estate company Deyaar
Development has outlined plans
to develop hospitality facilities
featuring spas across one million square
feet of land in the UAE.
The company, which is known across
the region for its residential and business
developments, will make its first move
into the hospitality sector with the
launch of The Atria, a luxury project
in the Business Bay district of Dubai,
featuring 350 serviced apartments and
219 residential units, and equipped with
spa facilities.
The five-star spa will afford views
across the Bay region and will feature
a health club, an infinity swimming
pool, and a full-service sauna and gym
facilities. three swimming pools and a
luxury restaurant.
The Atria will span 1.25million sq
ft, making it the developer’s largest
project in the Business Bay area. With
construction scheduled to begin this
month, Deyaar aims to complete the
development during the first half of 2017.
Deyaar said the move to develop
serviced apartments with spas was
spurred by an 80 per cent increase in
apartment occupancy rates in Dubai in
2013.
Deyaar chief executive Saeed Al
Qatami said: “The Atria offers an allrounded living experience in an area that
has transformed into a prime residential
district within a short span of time. The
bay and beautiful vistas of some of
Dubai’s best attractions make it even
more desirable as a holiday home or a
short-term residential option.”
Nail Spa unveils new brand identity
UAE-based salon chain The Nail Spa has
been relaunched with new treatments,
products and a whole new brand identity.
Since launching in 2002, The Nail Spa
has undergone a steady and successful
transformation to become a full service
brand, with extensive treatment options
ranging from classic nail care and waxing,
through to threading and eyebrow tinting,
facials and body massages.
Commenting on the new brand identity,
Shabana Karim, founder and managing
director of The Nail Spa, said: “Since
opening our first location in Dubai in 2002
we’ve witnessed immense demand across
the Emirates.
“Our brand refresh is part of our evolution
and has allowed us to create a new visual
representation of the brand and is aligned
to the values we hold as a company today.”
The refreshed look is currently being
rolled out across the brand’s portfolio. It’s
latest in Emirates Hills, The Lakes offers
the full range of treatments from the new,
luxurious menu including the DDG Instant
Glow, a ‘facial in a flash’ from celebrity skin
expert, Dr Dennis Gross. Other treatments
include the Hot ‘N’ Cold Hydrotherapy,
Minty Chocolate Sole Scrub, and Lavender
Heel Peel.
The Nail Spa currently employs more
than 300 therapists across nine venues
in the UAE. It was recently ranked
number 35 of Dubai’s 100 top performing
Small to Medium Enterprises (SMEs)
by Dubai SME, under the patronage
of His Highness Sheikh Hamdan Bin
Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum,
Crown Prince of Dubai and chairman of
Dubai Executive Council.
JA Resorts &
Hotels, brings first
global Speedflex
centre to Dubai
Following its successful launch in the
UK last year, Speedflex, a circuit-based
training concept, has announced its
expansion into Dubai.
With an opening scheduled by the end
of spring, the UAE-based hospitality firm,
JA Resorts & Hotels, has confirmed they
will be bringing the first global Speedflex
centre to Dubai.
“JA Resorts & Hotels is renowned for
pushing the boundaries of innovation and
offering our guests new and inventive
solutions in hospitality, entertainment,
dining and leisure,” said David Thomson,
chief operating officer of JA Resorts
& Hotels. “We have recently signed an
agreement with Speedflex to open their
very first UAE centre in JA Ocean View
Hotel in Q2 this year. We are proud to
be associated with the Speedflex brand,
which is backed by former England striker
Alan Shearer and promises a tailored,
high-intensity workout with reduced
muscle soreness and rapid results”.
Tapping into the growing trend
of group exercise, Speedflex offers
45-minute circuit-based sessions led
by an experienced personal trainer, and
combines a low-impact, high-intensity,
cardiovascular and resistance workout for
optimum calorie burn.
Each circuit features seven Speedflex
machines, which automatically respond
to and create resistance levels based on
the individual’s force, enabling users of all
ages and abilities to workout together, at
their own pace, whilst exercising multiple
muscle groups simultaneously. Speedflex
training offers a wide range of benefits
including accelerated fat loss, improved
muscle tone, strength and bone density
and enhanced power and speed.
20/03/2014 16:22
news
9
Goco Hospitality
launches spa
brand in UAE
Spa developer Goco Hospitality has
announced the launch of its own spa
brand, Goco Spa. The first site under the
new brand umbrella is the Goco Spa at
Ajman Saray in the UAE, which opened
on March 1.
The Bangkok-based company has
consulted on and created spas for
high-end clients around the world,
with past projects including The Spa
at Frankfurter Hof in Germany, The Spa
at The Grand Ho Tram in Vietnam and
wellness facilities for Paramount Hotels
& Resorts around the world.
However, the launch of Goco Spa
represents the company’s debut as
a spa operator. Goco founder and
chief executive Ingo Schweder said:
“We saw that there was a niche for a
new spa brand with international best
practices, contemporary design and a
management team with wellness knowhow.”
A second spa under the new brand,
the Goco Spa at JW Marriott Resort &
Spa, will open in Venice at the end of
this year. Schweder revealed that the
company is currently also “working on
projects in Spain, the Czech Republic,
China, India and Indonesia”.
Schweder said that the vision of Goco
Spa “is to transform the typical hotel
spa from a by-product to the soul of the
hotel; increasing the overall financial
performance across the property”.
The Sofitel So Spa relaxation area at The Palm, Dubai
Sofitel to open
Downtown Dubai branch
T
he Sofitel Dubai Downtown will
open its doors on May 1 and the
hotel’s So Spa is set to open shortly
afterwards.
This hotel, which will be near the Burj
Khalifa, will comprise 350 rooms and 76
suites. In the bathrooms, guests will enjoy
beauty products from Lanvin, Hermès and
other French brands.
The wellness provision will include
an infinity pool, So Spa, and So Fit gym
facilities. Director of development of
wellness activities Aldina Duarte Ramos
told Professional Beauty that the spa will
be tailored to meet the needs of business
clientele, with more express treatments on
offer than in the chain’s venue on the Palm.
The Sofitel Dubai Downtown is the
seventh hotel in the Sofitel network in
the Middle East. Accor plans to open two
additional Sofitel hotels in Jeddah and
Riyadh in the near future.
Hotel and day spas discount,
while destination spas use
e-marketing to boost footfall
The methods used to attract and retain
clients vary considerably between day,
hotel and destination spas, according to
new research.
While 64 per cent of day and 39 per
cent of hotel spa managers consider
promotional activities such as discounting
integral to increasing the frequency of
guest visits, only 13 per cent of destination
spa managers feel the same. Instead, 33
per cent of destination spa managers
prioritise customer service in encouraging
clients to return, with 27 per cent focusing
on loyalty schemes.
The research, carried out by students
on the International Spa Management
course at the University of Derby, UK,
surveyed best practice among spa
managers globally.
When it comes to attracting new
customers, the day and hotel spa
managers again cited promotional
activities, such as special offers, reduced
prices for multiple purchases, added
value promotions and discounts, as their
preferred tools. However, the method of
choice for destination spa managers is
online marketing, with 31% naming this as
their most successful method.
The research, which was carried
out on behalf of and presented at the
Professional Spa & Wellness Convention
in London on February 24, also revealed
differences in the approach to increasing
retail sales. While 30 per cent of day
spa mangers said they use partnerships
with well-established product houses to
drive sales, the most popular strategy for
destination spa managers is staff training
and developing product knowledge.
For hotel spa managers, promotional
activities were again the method of
choice, with 25 per cent using these to
boost retail sales.
Some 97 per cent of spa managers,
across all three segments, use social
media to promote their businesses,
with Facebook being the most popular
platform across the board, followed by
Twitter, TripAdvisor then YouTube.
20/03/2014 16:22
news
10
Technology crucial to
the future of hotel spas
E
mbracing technology and putting
an independent benchmarking
system in place are critical factors for
the future of the hotel spa sector, according
to findings from the Global Spa & Wellness
Summit (GSWS).
Delegates at the Global Hotel Spa
Forum at the 2013 GSWS in Delhi, India,
emphasised the importance of technology
in enhancing the spa experience, building
stronger customer relationships and
improving profitability.
A recently released report from
the forum also reveals that delegates
highlighted the implementation of an
international benchmarking system to
assess financial performance as critical
to the future growth and property of the
hotel spa segment.
The need for an industry-wide hotel spa
study, to more accurately assess clients’
preferences and requirements and become
better placed to meet the growing need for
personalisation, was also underlined.
Delegates at the forum additionally
expressed the view that hotel spas have
to a degree lost their lustre and no longer
lead the spa market in the way they did a
decade ago. It was agreed that hotel spas
need to innovate, adapt and widen their
customer-base in order to regain their
market leading position.
Panellists at the forum included Kathryn
Moore, director of operations at Mspa
International, Jeremy McCarthy, director
of global spa development and operations
at Starwood Hotels & Resorts, and Mia
Kyricos, chief brand officer at Spafinder
Wellness. Additional input for the report
was gathered from the more than 100
global hotel spa professionals present at
the summit.
Successful 25th anniversary
show for Professional Beauty
The 25th Professional Beauty trade show
at London’s ExCeL exhibition centre, held
on February 23-24, attracted more than
33,000* visitors and 600 brands from
around the world over two days.
Among the brands that exhibited at
the show, which included spa, skincare,
nails, equipment, aesthetics and tanning
areas, were Elemis, Clarins, Decléor, Caci,
Dermalogica, Heaven, Aromatherapy
Associates, Gharieni, OPI, Mii, Jessica
and Thalgo.
The show also incorporated an extensive
education element, comprising a series of
conventions, seminars and workshops.
These included the Professional Spa &
Wellness Convention, the International
Manufacturers and Distributors Forum
(IMF) and a calendar of seminar
programmes comprising business skills,
advanced treatments, nutrition and
wellness and “how to” workshops.
The International Nail Championships
and the Warpaint make-up competition
crowned winners in a range of categories
that included Spa Manicure, Showcase
Nail Art and Salon Nail for the former and
Real Beauty, Fashion and Special FX for
the latter.
*Awaiting ABC audit
Delegates at the 2013 Global Spa & Wellness Summit,
at which the Global Hotel Spa Forum was held
Hotel spas currently represent 16 per cent
or 14,000, of the 87,000 spas in operation
around the world. However, they account
for a significantly higher percentage, 27 per
cent, of global spa industry revenue.
JA launches five-star
Seychelles resort
Jebel Ali Resorts & Hotels, the team behind
the five-star Palm Tree Court Hotel & Spa,
and the Jebel Ali Golf Resort in Dubai, has
expanded into luxury African territory.
The UAE-headquartered hospitality
company has opened its first international
managed property, with the launch of the
five-star Enchanted Island Resort in the
Seychelles.
The resort is set on the private Round
Island in the Seychelles, within a designated
National Marine Park but also close to the
major Seychelles island of Mahe.
An exotic menu of treatments and
therapies are on offer at the resort’s
Serena Spa. Occupying an elevated
position overlooking the clear blue waters
of the Indian Ocean, the dedicated spa
features an “Adam & Eve” couples suite,
plus two further individual treatment
pavilions with their own private steam
room, shower and terrace.
The spa also offers yoga sessions, a gym,
and a number of other holistic therapies.
“The Seychelles has long been a preferred
destination for world travellers seeking a true
island paradise experience. The Enchanted
Island Resort offers just that, with a handful
of limited edition villas and a unique location
that fulfils the luxury five-star brief, but
which is sympathetic to the environment
and to the stunning natural beauty of the
island,” said David Thomson, chief operating
officer of JA Resorts & Hotels.
“As our first property outside of the UAE,
it makes for an impressive addition to our
expanding portfolio of upscale resorts and
hotels,” he added.
20/03/2014 16:23
Shop Online:
www.najafi.ae
Secret
of
Beauty Skin
Passion
for
Beauty Hair
Saloon
supply
Address : Plot No.365326
Al Qouz IND 2, Dubai, UAE.
Email: info@najafi.ae
Tel : +971-4-3416783 Fax : +971-4-3416785
P.O.Box: 39025, Dubai,
Najafi Cosmetics
PB DPS.indd 2
19/3/14 09:26:51
COSMETICS CO L.L.C
‫م‬.‫ذ‬.‫ﳌﺴﺘﺤﴬات اﻟﺘﺠﻤﻴﻞ ذ‬
Beaut
iful
Distributor For
Professional Saloon products.
Supply Body and Skin Care products.
Hair care Products.
PB DPS.indd 3
19/3/14 09:27:13
business trends
14
The month in numbers
AVERAGE
TREATMENT ROOM
OCCUPANCY
78
%
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS
IN JANUARY 2014 COMPARE WITH
JANUARY 2013?
60
1
39
% BETTER
% SAME
Insider beauty,
hair and nails
Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons, spas and nail
salons in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know
%WORSE
JANUARY
PERCENTAGE
OF CLIENTS WHO
REBOOKED
This month’s figures provide a positive picture. More than half of you are
experiencing better treatment and retail business than you did a year ago
and your clients are, in the main, repeating their custom with you –
despite the fact that only 20 per cent of salons questioned said they used a
loyalty card system.
63
%
You are most excited about innovations in anti-ageing products
this month and despite the general belief that therapists are
missing retail opportunities, more than half of you say
your team feels comfortable selling.
On the spot
WHICH SECTOR OF THE MARKET
DO YOU THINK HAS SEEN THE
MOST INTERESTING LAUNCHES
OVER THE LAST YEAR?
1. Anti-ageingproducts
2. Nailproducts
3. Hairproducts
4.Bodyproducts
20
%
OF YOU HAVE A LOYALTY
CARD SYSTEM
36
%
OF YOUR CLIENTS ARE
HOLIDAYMAKERS
60
%
OF YOU SAY YOUR
THERAPISTS FEEL
COMFORTABLE
RETAILING
40
%
OF YOU WILL BE TAKING
ON A NEW BRAND
THIS YEAR
14-16 PBGCC APR14 Insider.indd 14
20/03/2014 11:09
For more than 25 years, the Valmont Group has been helping women and men
master the visible signs of ageing. Heir to traditional Swiss medicine, the company
draws from the unspoiled natural resources of Switzerland and the latest cellular
cosmetic research findings to formulate utmost anti-ageing skin care products
featuring visible and long-lasting efficacy.
The group has surrounded itself with the best experts to create extraordinary
product ranges, all subtly combining refinement and anti-age efficacy… to enhance
the beauty of women and men.
For Middle East enquiries, please contact +971 4 332 90 19 ext. 244 or email a.albu@creation-me.com
PB full page.indd 1
17/3/14 11:54:51
business trends
16
The month in numbers
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS
IN JANUARY 2014 COMPARE WITH
JANUARY 2013?
70
5
25
% BETTER
% SAME
%WORSE
PERCENTAGE
OF CLIENTS
WHO REBOOKED
51
Insider spa
%
Insider, our exclusive round-up of spa stats in the GCC.
It’s the easiest way to stay in the know
JANUARY
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN
JANUARY 2014 COMPARE WITH
JANUARY 2013
AVERAGE
TREATMENT ROOM
OCCUPANCY
This month you are excited about innovations in
anti-ageing and are enjoying good business in
both the treatment and retail arena. Just over half
of your client base is made up from locals, rather
than hotel guests, and these clients are rebooking.
71
Business is up compared to last year and you are
enjoying good treatment room occupancy. You are also
confident in your therapists’ ability to retail products but most of you are
not intending to introduce any new brands into your portfolio in the
immediate future.
40
%
60
%
OF YOU SAY YOUR THERAPISTS
FEEL COMFORTABLE RETAILING
60
40
%
OF YOUR GUESTS
ARE TOURISTS
WHICH SECTOR OF THE MARKET
DO YOU THINK HAS SEEN THE
MOST INTERESTING LAUNCHES
OVER THE LAST YEAR?
.1. Anti-ageingproducts
2. Collagenproducts
3. Bodyskincareproducts
% BETTER
%WORSE
On the spot
10
%
OF YOU WILL
INTRODUCE NEW
BRANDS INTO YOUR
SPA THIS YEAR
14-16 PBGCC APR14 Insider.indd 16
20/03/2014 11:10
PB full page.indd 1
17/3/14 12:19:54
spray tanning
18
Fiona Vlemmiks reveals why spray tanning could bolster your business
Going for
GOLD
W
e live in one of the sunniest climates in
the world. With constant sunshine
available for those who want to achieve
a golden glow, some salons have been
slow to realise the benefits of offering a
sunless tanning system.
Yet with more people now concerned about the
potentially harmful effects of the sun’s rays, selftanning is growing in popularity.
Sunless or self-tans are available in creams, gels,
mousses and sprays. Professionally, many salons opt
for spray tanning systems. Spray tans have little
downtime (around 15 minutes for the application and
five to ten minutes for drying, depending on the
system). The latest formulas have little odour, give
streak-free results and allow the client to leave the
salon with an instant glow.
Safety matters
Immediate results and the fact that spray tans work on
all skin types, even those with very pale skin who
wouldn’t normally tan, are reasons why people are
shunning the sun, but the main selling point seems to
be that spray tanning is simply a safe option.
Ageing is caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors.
Intrinsic ageing is down to our genetic make-up and
extrinsic ageing is caused by environmental factors
such as the sun, smoking, and pollution, which
prematurely age us. The number-one cause of
premature ageing is sun exposure.
Without protection from the sun’s rays, just a few
minutes of daily exposure, over time, can produce
freckles, age spots, wrinkles and can increase the risk
of skin cancer.
There are two types of UV light that are damaging
to the skin. UVA makes up most of our natural sunlight.
It causes ageing and is now also linked to skin cancer.
UVB burns the skin and is the main cause of nonmelanoma skin cancer.
With self-tanning, the bronze effect is due to
Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) a colourless sugar that
interacts with the dead cells located in the stratum
corneum of the epidermis. As the sugar reacts with the
dead skin cells, a colour change occurs. This change
lasts from five to seven days from the initial application.
Marie Moulds, distributor of the St Tropez sunless
tanning range comments, “The benefits of spray
tanning versus other tanning methods include a
healthier natural looking, streak-free tan to suit every
skin tone, whilst no exposure to UV – a tan without the
sun. There is also no premature ageing so you can have
an all-year-round natural, safe tan.”
Catherine Collins, director of Emerging Beauty
Brands which distributes Xen Tan in the Middle East,
agrees: “With spray tanning you are not exposing your
skin to harmful UV rays so you decrease the risk of skin
cancer. There is no need to tan outside in the sun for
hours and you can adjust the intensity of how dark you
would like to go by spray tanning more or less
frequently. Another really important benefit is that
your skin will retain its youthful appearance for longer
as when you repeatedly expose your skin to harmful
UV rays the ageing process is accelerated.”
There are many spray tanning brands on the market,
each with extensive retail ranges and business support.
We ask the distributors of St Tropez, Xen-Tan and Vita
Liberata to give us the low-down on their brands.
18-22 PBGCCAPR14 Tanning.indd 18
20/03/2014 11:11
spray tanning
19
20/03/2014 11:11
spray tanning
20
Xen-Tan
St Tropez
One of the first professional, self-tanning systems
on the market, St Tropez is known world-wide and
has a celebrity following including supermodel
Kate Moss.
Benefits for clients:
The product is streak-free, easy to apply, long-lasting
and will fade evenly. The Aromaguard virtually
eliminates the self-tan aroma. It is paraben and
sulphate free. St Tropez is also the winner of 85
awards worldwide.
Unique selling points:
The brand has a a fabulous range of retail products
that are multifunctional. This includes Gradual Tan
plus Firming, which tans, tones, firms and
moisturises! Gradual Tan plus anti-ageing Face
prolongs youthful skin and creates a luminous, sunkissed glow. The illuminator gives a perfect iridescent
finish to the face, décolletage, arms and legs. The
self-tan mousse offers lightweight, quick application
and is our best seller.
Business benefits:
St Tropez is the most talked about brand in tanning
with 85 awards to date. The St Tropez Booth, a cocoonlike shape, offers enhanced privacy. It also minimises
overspray for a quicker drying time and advanced
extraction. There is a team of experts here on the
ground to support your salon.
Contact
Green Plain General Trading +971 50 652 96 10
or email info@st-tropezdubai.com
Another celebrity favourite, Xen-Tan has a
time-release agent that controls the amount
of the sunless tan ingredient released during
application, leaving flawless and natural results.
Benefits to clients:
Each product in the range is created to suit
all skin tones. The products are formulated
with a unique “scent-secure” molecule and a
time-release complex and these control the
usual odour associated with so many self tans.
Xen-Tan products are also formulated with
an olive undertone, which results in a naturallooking tan. All products are paraben free, and
the award-winning formulas are packed full of
luxury ingredients such as green tea, gingko
biloba, jojoba oil, vitamins E and A, aloe vera,
milk thistle and shea butter, Xen-Tan ensures
they are safe for even the most sensitive skins.
Xen-Tan provides an all-over, even coverage.
The products are formulated
with premium antioxidants and
moisturisers that nourish the skin.
The Xen-Tan spray tan can also
be tailormade for the results
PB’s pick for
the client wants. For example,
its lovely aroma
you can apply one coat for a
and
breathe-easy
lighter colour and two coats
for a deeper colour.
application
Business benefits:
The key benefits of adding XenTan to your salon menu is that you
are providing your customers with
a luxury, award-winning brand that is not
only a successful professional brand, but is
widely-distributed in upmarket retail stores
worldwide. By adding spray tanning to your
treatment menu you can offer customers
more beauty services and generate more
revenue very quickly as it is very easy to
implement. It adds to the total beauty package
of manicure/pedicure and hair services and
it will help establish regular clientele for the
salon, as customers will return weekly for their
spray tan.
With Xen-Tan you can have the total
package of both professional products
PB’s pick
and a luxury retail line.
for – flawless
Contact:
Emerging Beauty Brands on
application and
+971 4 368 72 88 or email
an even and
info@emergingbeautybrands.com
natural tan
20/03/2014 11:12
spray tanning
22
Vita Liberata
Vita Liberata is 100 per cent natural. It offers two different
types of professional spray tan formulas in three differernt
shades, Tinted, with a guide colour, and Invisi, a clear
formula to avoid any marking on clothing or bed sheets.
Benefits to clients:
With sunless tanning you can tan on the go. It can take
a while to get a tan from the sun or solarium, but with
sunless tanning you can get an immediate effect for a
wedding or special occasion. The product is 100 per
cent toxin-free. It is 80 per cent organic and completely
paraben free. It is even safe to use in pregnancy if you use
manual application rather than a spray tan. Many women
suffer from pigmentation in pregnancy and should stay
away from the sun but many women still want to look
good and a self-tan can help them feel better without
any risks.
The tan is odourless and people can go out and about
straight after application without looking streaky or
obvious. The tan dries instantly so is suitable for clients
with busy lifestyles. Vita Liberata has a patented ingredient
called Pentavitin, which is a unique moisture lock that
stays on the skin for 72 hours. This means the product
has skin benefits beyond tanning. The new retail product,
pHenomenal 2-3 week tan, can last up to four times longer
than other self-tan products.
Business benefits:
There is a good mark-up on the product. It costs salons 28
dirhams for each spray tan, and they can charge up to 200
dirhams for a treatment. The brand is established around
the world so salons know they are getting a good product,
with great business support.
PB’s pick for
versatility – there’s
something to suit
every client, even
those who are
pregnant
New! New! New!
Kissed by Mii is a new self-tanning range from Gerrard
International, based in the UK.
A professional treatment as well as a complete homecare
range, Kissed by Mii products and tanning routines are
separated into three easy-to-understand stages – Prepare,
Bare and Care.
Each step of the professional range has an emphasis on
the treatment experience. Essentials like towelling robes
for maintaining modesty, and hair turbans to comfortably
protect hair come with the range, while treatment advice
leaflets provide clients with pre and post-care information
to help them make the most from their tan and encourage
retail sales.
Effortlessly Easy Tanning Solution is packaged in foil
to prevent air and light getting to it, with a dispensing
tap that makes it easy to pour just the right amount for
each treatment. High-performance equipment includes
an LVLP spray-tanning gun, which has been specially
designed to make the most of Kissed by Mii. There is also
an extraction booth to capture any overspray for a clean
treatment room. PB
Gerrard International is seeking a distributor for Mii in the
UAE. For more information: + 44 (0) 161 980 2333
20/03/2014 11:13
’
by
A new tanning range with marine mineral extracts
Liner
Gerrard International does not currently hold a licence to distribute in the UAE.
Taking the nourishing benefits of coral seaweed and coastal flowers
for sublimely soft skin and an even longer lasting, flawless tan.
Mii is looking to work with you.
For more information on offering Kissed by Mii and becoming a distributor, please contact Gerrard International.
E: danielle.gerrard@gerrardinternational.com | T: +44 (0) 161 980 2333 | W: gerrardinternational.com
miicosmetics
Gerrards KBM.indd 1
miicosmetics
20/2/14 09:53:53
business tips
24
Ask the experts
Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about
every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business
How do I raise the brand profile of my salon?
T
he key to ensuring that your salon is a successful
venture is creating brand awareness, therefore an
innovative and progressive approach to marketing
is essential. Enlisting the services of a professional PR
company with a background in the beauty industry is
imperative, as it will have a niche understanding of what
business and marketing strategies work to enhance
brand awareness which, in turn, will enable your business
to reach new heights.
We specialise in offering cutting-edge marketing
solutions for the beauty and aesthetics industry, and we
have achieved tremendous success for our clients. For
example, we worked with a UAE-based salon chain for
several years which was relatively unknown when we
started. The salon has become a well-known, awardwinning, international salon brand which attracts global
media attention. The business now comprises four
branches and has become the go-to salon for anyone
looking for high-end beauty and cutting-edge hair
treatments. The salon has also become the first choice
for magazine editors for treatments, support for photoshoots and input for features.
If you feel that you do not have the budget to support
an extensive PR campaign, it is important to remember
that PR solutions do not have to be expensive to be
effective. A first-rate PR company will provide a tailormade PR and marketing campaign that will be appropriate
to the budget you have to help your business grow.
Media coverage is absolutely crucial to building a highprofile reputation – it is a vital channel to connect with
existing and potential clients and show them exactly
what your business has to offer. Your PR company of
choice should have a wide range of media contacts
within your target demographic whom they can work
with to get your brand featured.
At NCPR we work closely with media, and due to our
ongoing relationships and creative ideas, attain extensive,
quality coverage for all our clients. For instance, through a
perceptive media campaign, one of our clients was
noticed by an international modelling agency, J Model
Management, and was invited to participate in a global
fashion event. Following this, the client attracted a host
of new business and just three months later won a
prestigious beauty award. This is a great example of the
effect PR can have at its best!
Naydene Commins is managing director of NCPR - a
PR and marketing company specialising in the
beauty and aesthetics industry. Prior to launching
her PR company, Naydene created and managed
several businesses in the beauty sector including
a hair and beauty salon, an online retail business,
as well as a distribution company supplying skin
and body products.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS?
Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to fiona@professionalbeauty.ae
24-27 PBGCC APR14 Ask the Experts.indd 24
20/03/2014 11:13
business tips
25
As a newly trained make-up
artist, what should I be doing
to get my name known?
T
How can I reward loyal customers without
increasing my costs too much?
B
uilding and retaining a loyal client base has to be your priority as a
salon or spa owner or manager. Letting your clients know that
you appreciate and value their custom is a big part of this.
I always think it is nicer to take a more personal approach when
offering a reward to your clients. This will make them feel special and,
in turn, build trust. Offering a small discount off their regular treatment
to be taken around the time of their birthday, or a thank you note with
a discount voucher if they have referred a new client to you, shows the
client that you pay attention to them and not just the money they
bring in.
I don’t think you ever need to advertise the fact you do this for loyal
clients, you want it to be a lovely and unexpected surprise. You can
also use this approach to promote your product or treatment ranges.
Again, think about the client as an individual and what they would
appreciate or benefit from the most. For example, recommending a
new treatment or product with a small discount is a good way to not
only reward your loyal clients but also to introduce them to new things.
It’s not the size of the discount that matters, it’s the time you took to
show that client you really do appreciate them, because
without a loyal client base a business will not survive.
Francesca Noretta is the owner and founder of FLN Spa
Consultancy, which specialises in helping spas and salons
optimise client service to retain business.
he first thing to do is create some images
for your website, and then market it.
Advertise your skills in local magazines and
papers to create a buzz about yourself. Meet
with local journalists, start a relationship and
do their make-up if they’re going to a special
event. Hopefully they’ll ask you for quotes
when they write beauty articles. Word of
mouth is the best form of advertising so within
six months to a year you should start reaping
the rewards of your hard work.
Try and socialise with professionals you
want to work with, such as hairdressers,
fashion stylists and photographers. If they like
you they will probably give you a job as they’ll
enjoy spending the day working with you.
When you first start out, working with
hairdressers who do shoots for their salons is a
great way to start creating a portfolio, but
remember that a portfolio that looks too
creative may scare some clients who are
looking for a more commercial style of work.
So try to do some tests that demonstrate your
versatility and show that you can tone it down
when necessary.
If bridal make-up is your passion then try to
do as many different bridal styles as possible
then make friends with a local photographer
who specialises in weddings. You may find
that working closely with a bridal boutique will
also pay dividends.
Daniel Sandler has been a make-up
artist for more than 25 years, working
internationally. He also has his own
salon range Daniel Sandler Professional
Finish Makeup.
20/03/2014 11:14
Wellbeing Through COLOUR THERAPY
Organic Products Made In France
Spadunya Distribution Middle East
Shams 1 Plaza Level, The Walk at Jumeirah Beach Residence
P.O. Box 74036 Dubai, United Arab Emirates
T: +971 4 4298662 | F: 00971 4 4298663
info@spadunyadistribution-me.com • www.altearahbio.com
Untitled-2 1
11/02/2014 13:21
business tips
27
What skills should I look for
when recruiting or promoting
a manager?
T
How should I adapt my service when
treating a teenage nail client?
N
ails are getting more and more popular, especially with younger
people and teenagers. Many teens want their nails to be bright
and show some form of art or additional bling. They can wear the
brightest of colours and get away with it.
It is important to remember these young ladies are our future breadand-butter clients, and therefore should be treated as such. Don’t
dismiss them on the basis of age. Offer them a great experience and
they will come back – and will recommend your services to others. Do
not treat teenage clients as children in terms of their spending power.
They might have a part-time job or birthday money to spend.
But if a client that is obviously of school age walks into the salon
wanting some nail art then do remember that first you need to check
your insurance to ensure you are covered for under-16s. You will need
parental consent and will also need to complete a client record card
and make sure it’s signed.
When you are working on a younger client’s nails, invariably their
nail plate is small. You need to take extra care when doing your
cuticle work, as their hands are still growing and any damage you
do to the nail plate or matrix at this young age could be permanent.
You also need to explain to them the importance of aftercare –
teach them young!
Nikki Austin is a PhD bachelor educator for distributor Nail
Harmony UK, working with Gelish and All That Jazz, a range
of polishes aimed at the teenage market.
he accepted definition of management is,
“to run a business ensuring a profit is
made by allocating the correct human and
material resources and directing operations”. A
manager’s responsibilities include hiring, firing,
solving, leading, planning, organising, measuring
and co-ordinating. The key is in the balance.
Good managers have leadership qualities.
Leaders inspire, recognising that each person is
an individual, and work to bring out their
strengths for the greater good of the team and
business. Ensure your manager has that natural
social influence that makes the team enthusiastic
and want to work.
A good manager will know the vision and
goals of the organisation and direct the team to
achieve these. They keep their eyes focused on
the bigger picture while ensuring that the details
and resources are used efficiently.
You should appoint a clear, concise communicator. Good managers must communicate
regularly with their teams, and when necessary
handle problems quickly and explain why
something needs to happen. They don’t just
hand out directives.
They must also be able to delegate
responsibility, rather than feeling they have to do
everything so that it is done right. This mindset
works against managers as it makes the team
feel as though there is a lack of trust. By
delegating, the manager can grow the team
around them and boost staff loyalty. PB
Laura Carrick is the director of business and
leadership training company In Flow
International and also runs a not-for-profit
mentoring scheme for female professionals.
20/03/2014 11:14
PB DPS.indd 2
12/3/14 13:10:02
PB DPS.indd 3
12/3/14 13:10:17
talking to...
30
Jeff Pink
Orly’s founder and chief executive tells Eve Oxberry what’s behind the company’s
rebrand and why extending the wear of polish is the future of nail care
F
amed for inventing the French manicure in the
’70s, Jeff Pink went on to create one of the bestknown professional nail brands in the world. Yet
compared to other founders, the man himself
has kept a relatively low public profile.
But all that is changing in the wake of Orly’s rebrand
last year which focused on Pink as a founder still very
much in control of his company. He tells me he’s already
turned down offers from L’Oreal and Revlon and has no
desire to sell Orly in the foreseeable future. “In the States
until very recently OPI was the number one professional
brand, we were number two and Essie number three,”
says Pink. “Since it was bought by L’Oreal, Essie has
gone more mass market, and Coty paid so much for OPI
I think they will go mass market to justify that, so that
leaves Orly a very big opportunity to capture the
professional market.”
The latest marketing
campaign features a
portrait of Pink, using
colours that match
Orly polishes (top
right on next page) ,
with the strapline “It
all started with Pink”.
“The professional
market is a huge
focus for us now,”
he
adds.
“We’re
getting down to the
nitty gritty of what they need to help build their nail
services all over the world.”
Rapid response
Indeed, way back in 1975, Orly was founded on Pink’s
passion for the minutiae of what makes a product work
for the professional. Having entered the industry with a
beauty supply store in 1975, it was only a matter of
months before he began developing his first product. “I
visited many salons and manicurists and listened to their
needs,” he says. “At that time there weren’t products for
nail care; only colours and base and top coats. Manicurists
were using paper and glue to strengthen nails.”
His answer to this need was Romeo, a nylon fibrepacked base coat that created a mesh over the nail to
strengthen it. It took off nationally and he soon followed
it up with Ridgefiller, a base coat to smooth imperfections,
which is still in the Orly collection today.
However, it was the third launch that really put Orly on
the map. A film director whom Pink supplied asked for a
polish that would match the many costumes his actresses
had to wear each day. “In those days you didn’t have the
quick-drying polishes and top coats so it would take at
least an hour to dry a manicure properly,” says Pink. He
created the now world-famous French manicure by
developing a white polish (unheard of at the time) and
pairing it with a nude tone. The director loved it, as did the
models at Paris Fashion Week where Pink next took the
kits. In fact they loved it so much he renamed his “Natural
Nail Look”, the French Manicure in their honour.
1975
Jeff Pink opens Orly as a beauty
supply store and launches first
product, nail strengthener
Romeo
1976
Launches Ridgefiller base
coat then the French Manicure
(originally called The Natural
Nail Look)
1980
French Manicure
eventually takes off
worldwide
KEY DATES
30-32 PBGCC APR14 Interview.indd 30
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Healthcare Group - Jane Iredale.indd 1
20/2/14 10:08:37
talking to...
32
“The French manicure sowed the seed for the big change
that turned my company international,” says Pink. But
although the name is now synonymous with naturallooking groomed nails, it wasn’t until the early ‘80s that
consumers started to buy into it in a big way.
“It’s strange, with many items I developed I was ahead
of my time,” says Pink. “I created a nail
artist kit in the late ’80s but it was so far
ahead of its time I couldn’t sell it and
now many years later it’s huge.”
Winning formulas
because we took some chemicals out that the government
viewed as dangerous [DBP, formaldehyde and toluene] and
we’re still working to replace them with other ingredients
that will last as long,” he says. “We’re seeing a light at the
end of the tunnel and I believe that in a short time we’ll have
a nail polish that is really going to last more than a week… I
do believe that that’s the future.”
He says the launch of Orly’s Mega Pixel
polish last year was a step in the right
direction. “It is packed with tiny pieces of
glass that make it three dimensional but,
believe it or not, also make it last longer and
we’re researching why.”
As well as the rebrand, which has seen
Orly’s logo, packaging and point of
sale materials change along with its
The right feel
marketing, Pink’s focus for the
Orly is diversifying further into new
coming months is on formulation.
textures, which Pink says is a trend that still
Orly has plenty of plans to keep
has plenty of growth potential. “We are
innovating within its gel polish line
now coming up with some top coats that
Gel FX, but Pink says the main
can add texture to any polish,” he says.
potential for growth in the nails
“Texture is driving the market now more
market as a whole lies in improving
than gel and in the future I can see many
the formulation of traditional polish.
different types of texture and more
“Around 20% of women today are
possibilities for combining it with nail art.”
The original Ridgefiller (left)
using gel and the other 80% use polish,
However, while he is investing heavily in
and today’s product after
the rebrand (right)
so I do feel gel is here to stay but
fashion and colour-led launches this year,
nothing will take away from the polish,” he says. “When I Pink’s heart remains in the problem-solving treatment
started in the ’70s the competition in acrylics was crazy products that made his name almost 40 years ago. “We
for five years, after which only the best were left, and I have 24 different nail treatments that cover everything
imagine that’s what will happen in gels – over the next from biting to fungus to dry cuticles,” he says. “Keep in
two years only the good ones will survive.”
mind that unlike polish, which is an impulse buy, if a
However, the major challenge, he says, now lies in woman likes one treatment product she is always going
extending the wear of polish so that women who like the to buy it, so they are the keys to customer loyalty.” And
ease of removing it and changing colours frequently won’t with Pink at the helm for a long time to come, it looks like
feel pushed into switching to gel purely for its durability.
they are also the key to continued growth for Orly. PB
“Nail polish does not last as long today as it used to Orly is distributed in the Middle East by Sawaya International.
1981
Launches Bonder
base coat
1991
Creates first
nail art kit
2002
Designs the
Gripper Cap
2011
Launches Gel FX
gel polish line
2012
Creates Shade
Shifter colourchanging gel
2013
Creates 3D-effect
Mega Pixel
collection
KEY DATES
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M
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CM
MJ
CJ
CMJ
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step-by-step
35
A WALK ON THE
e
d
i
s
d
l
i
w
Nail art is big news in the GCC and ever-discerning
clients are looking for signature nails to get them
noticed. Take inspiration from our Flowers in Animal
Print designed by Artistic Nails scholar educator
Ana Maria Gomez-Chile
Learn how to create these nails in five easy steps
using products from Artistic Nails.
1. Use Marbleize Cafe Latte (03043), Naked (03044) and In Bloom (03078)
to create the base. Cure for 30 seconds in an LED lamp.
2. Using your Artistic Mini Striper brush, create cheetah print spots with Eccentric
(03006). Cure for 30 seconds in an LED lamp.
1
2
4
5
3. With Uptown (03017) Sincere (03108) and Innocence
(03022), make the petals of the flowers with the darker
colour in the centre and lighter on the tip, gently mixing
them. Cure for 30 seconds in an LED lamp.
4. With Toxic (03066) mixed with Nobility (03072), create
leaves, and with Diva Chic (03004), do thin lines in each
petal from the centre, then add touches of Bride (03103)
on the tips of each petal. Cure for 30 seconds in an LED lamp.
5. With Bride (03103), do mini dots in the centre of each
flower. Using Eccentric (03006), define leaves to add
detail. Small amounts of Hotness (03036) were added
around the centre of the flower to create a glittery effect.
Cure for 30 seconds in an LED lamp.
Artistic Nail Design is distributed in the Middle East
by Sawaya International and co distributed in the UAE
by Beauty Essentials.
3
35 PBGCC APR14 Nail Steps.indd 35
20/03/2014 11:20
Bio Sculpture Gel, the original everlasting manicure, is a chip-free, salon treatment that cures
to a strong yet flexible, glossy finish and lasts for up to three weeks.
The damage-free, nourishing treatment will protect and enhance your natural nails and is available
in over 150 colours. As the original nail gel, Bio Sculpture Gel is tried, tested and proven.
For your nearest salon or information on training courses for beginners and experienced nail technicians
contact +9714 3414820 or info@bio-sculpture.ae
Bio Scuplture Middle East
www.biosculpture.me
Proud
members of the
nail news
37
Nailbites
International collaborations, new launches and nail
competition winners top this month’s nail news
School of rock
Artistic Nail Design’s Art of Perfect
Polish workshop wowed nail techs in
Dubai last month.
Alisha Rimando Botero, Artistic Nail
Design’s executive vice president and
artistic director, was in Dubai at the end
of February to conduct the workshop.
There was a fantastic turn out with
nail technicians, salon owners and
managers attending.
Said Esther Ng, regional manager for
Beauty Essentials, Artistic Nail Design
UAE co-distributor, “The ladies were
absolutely bowled over by Alisha’s
presentation, and demos, and were so
excited about the possibilities for using
Artistic Colour Gloss in their nail art.
“There was an overwhelming interest
in Artistic’s Rock Hard World Tour and
the kit and also Rock Hard LED Gel. The
OPI’s summer fizz
OPI is set to sparkle this summer as it announces
a collaboration with The Coca-Cola Company.
Several of the company’s most
recognised brands – including
Coca-Cola, Diet Coke, Cherry
Coke, Sprite and Fanta – will be the
inspiration for a line of OPI limitededition nail lacquers that will
launch internationally in June.
“OPI is thrilled to partner
with the world’s top beverage
company,” says OPI cofounder and executive
vice
president
Suzi
Weiss-Fischmann. “These
two iconic brands truly
deliver happiness in a
bottle – whether it’s a
refreshing, invigorating
sip of Coke or a set
of fingers and toes
perfectly polished with
OPI nail lacquer.”
ladies couldn’t believe how easy and
fast the service was.
“At the end of the workshop,
Alisha presented the attendees with
certificates. We are now looking
forward to the next Rock Hard World
Tour scheduled in Dubai.”
Artistic Nail Design is distributed in the
Middle East by Sawaya International and
co distributed in UAE by Beauty Essentials.
LET’S GO DOTTY
Online nail boutique and nail art specialist de
Mains has hit its first milestone for its “A Dot a
Day” challenge, in which it plans to design a dotinspired nail creation for every day of 2014. De
Mains has now created over 50 nail art designs
inspired by fashion, patterns and world events.
The designs, which include a ballerina, a koala,
and leopard print, have all been created using
the de Mains Dotter, a hand-held tool with two
spherical ends of different sizes that can be
dipped in polish then used to draw patterns.
ROCK HARD TIPS
With the demand for express nails bigger
than ever, Artistic Nail Design has launched
Rock Hard Nail Xtensions to speed up
the treatment time of extensions. They’re
designed to stop creasing and cracking
during application and are available in
three colours: natural, white and clear.
37 PBGCC APR14 Nail bites.indd 37
20/03/2014 11:21
Gerrard International does not currently hold a licence to distribute in the UAE.
s
k
o .
o
l
l
r
l
i
o
F at K
th
We realise that looks are important to your customers. But we also know that looks
alone won’t last forever. That’s why we’ve taken the feedback from thousands of women
who use spas and beauty salons to develop a complete range of makeup that has the feel
of something that has been created just for them. One that combines killer looks with
beautifully packaged education and support to ensure that you are able to offer your
customers all that they ask for.
Mii is looking to work with you.
For more information on offering Mii and becoming a distributor, please contact Gerrard International.
E: danielle.gerrard@gerrardinternational.com | T: +44 (0) 161 980 2333 | W: miicosmetics.com
miicosmetics
miicosmetics
spa skincare
39
Precious oil
U
Powerful and easy to absorb, body oils can offer clients a more targeted
approach to skincare and boost your retail sales. Professional Beauty explains
sing oils as part of a body care treatment
programme has always been advocated by
the major spa brands.
Oils have more synergy with the skin and
developments in technology mean that they
are no longer heavy and sticky, but can be
found in a variety of mediums from dry to non-greasy. While
facial treatments are still extremely popular, our Insider
survey, last month, revealed that most spas in the UAE
expected body treatments to be the most requested this
spring and summer. Constant air conditioning and sun
exposure ensure that dry skin is a common concern for most
of our clients and hence regular body scrubs and hamman
treatments are the norm. But in order to maintain the results
of the treatments, daily care for the body, as well as for the
face, should be prescribed to clients. Moisturising creams
and gels offer one option. But for a more targeted approach,
oils are preferable.
Noella Gabriel, head of treatment and product
development at Elemis, believes that oils are the best
carriers to deliver nourishment and ingredients into the skin.
As well as hydrating, they can deliver very
effective firming and toning effects. She
says: “Oils are very en vogue at the
“The
moment and have become even more
biggest benefit
sophisticated. Six years ago oils were
of oils is that they
heavy and sticky but now you can get
have more synergy
dry oils and non-greasy oils. The
with the skin”
texture and functionality has improved
FIONA BRACKENBURY,
and so has how we dispense them.”
DECLÉOR
Fiona Brackenbury, director of training
at Decléor UK, believes consumers are
becoming more body conscious and feels the
peak in serum products (which she says is the category oils fit
into) is due to those oils offering a more targeted response.
“Whether it is to break down fat or to stimulate collagen,
there is an oil to address that. She adds: “The biggest benefit
of oils is that they have more synergy with the skin. In this way
they are more powerful and absorb deeper.”
Although there is a rich tradition of using oils in the Middle
East, some clients may still be sceptical about using them on
a daily basis. The best way to introduce
clients to an oil is to encourage
them to try a treatment involving
“Oils are very
the use of oil. Gabriel explains
en vogue at the
that all of Elemis’s body
moment and have
treatments commence with an
become even more
oil application. “We exfoliate
sophisticated”
the skin after oiling, so the oil
NOELLA GABRIEL,
gives you that tiny barrier for the
ELEMIS
treatment. It makes the whole
experience better,” she says.
Brackenbury suggests that you highlight
the benefits of daily use as opposed to just having an
intensive treatment. She explains: “It is a bit like exercise; if
the muscles are used for regular exercise they can take the
impact, but if you haven’t done it for a while it is more of a
strain on the muscles and you have to work harder to get
back into it. It’s exactly the same concept with the skin, you
have to increase the circulation to get rid of toxins and if you
do it all year round you get more of an accelerated effect.”
Last year Decléor launched its Youth Revealing Face and
Body treatment, which combines both a facial and body
treatment in one. Brackenbury, adds: “This has been really
successful for spas to encourage clients to have both a facial
treatment and introduce them to a body treatment too.”
Turn the page to find out more about the latest body oils on
offer for your salon. PB
39-41 PBGCC APR14 Oils.indd 39
20/03/2014 11:25
spa skincare
40
Nashi
Nashi argan Dry Effect Perfect Body Oil
has an exclusive formula employing oil of
argan and oil of abyssinian. It provides
hydration, improves skin tone and
elasticity and gives the skin a feeling of
softness without oiliness. It specifically
targets dryness and stretch marks and
tackles skin ageing. It can be massaged
daily onto the body.
Call: Dubai +971 4 252 52 66
or Abu Dhabi +971 2 666 80 98
Guinot
Hero Oils
A round up of some of the best body oils
on the market
Guinot has launched its first body
and hair dry oil, Huile Mirific, a
combination of essential plant oils
and vitamins, which protect the
hair from hot summers and also
work on the skin, nourishing it
while creating a satin finish. Its
aromatic blend of passion fruit
flower, mandarin, sandalwood,
and jasmine rejuvenate and
energise the body with a subtle
floral fragrance.
Call: +971 6 573 93 92
Decléor
Aromatherapy brand Decléor highlights
two products it considers as its hero oils
for the body. Aromessence Excellence,
Youth Activator Body Serum is an
anti-ageing body serum containing
frankincense, sweet almond and
hazelnut oils, addressing the needs of
mature skin, helping to firm and smooth
the body. Decléor’s Aromessence Slim
Effect Draining Contouring Serum is
a slimming body serum, which helps to
combat water retention problems
and refine the skin. It comprises elemi
and grapefuit oils to deliver a visible
reduction in the appearance of uneven,
orange-peel skin making it ideal for
detoxing and slimming.
Call: +971 4 332 90 19
Elemis
The Japanese Camelia Oil
from Elemis is a lightweight
oil which easily absorbs into
the skin. It contains plant
collagen to keep the skin
moisturised and supple,
improves elasticity and hydration
to prevent stretch marks and
the formation of scar tissue,
making it a great oil to use
on expecting mothers.
Call: +971 4 324 54 14
20/03/2014 11:25
spa skincare
41
Anne Semonin
Phytomer
The Anne Semonin Botanical
Body Oil softens and relaxes
the entire body. The product
includes the essential oils of
lavandin, mandarin zest and
marjoram for their revitalising
qualities. The formulation
also contains hazelnut oil,
which is deeply nourishing
and regenerating, and
sesame oil to moisturise,
clarify and brighten.
Call: +971 4 379 19 66
In recognition of the need for a
targeted body care product,
Phytomer has created a high-tech
formula called Celluli Attack.
Ingredients include sea absinthium,
sea grape to help control slimming
genes and vectorised sea pepper
to help burn stubborn fat. The idea
behind the product is that you only
need to use a few drops to help
decrease fat cells, reduce cellulite
and localise fat. The product also
smooths the orange-peel effect on
the surface of the skin.
Call: +971 2 676 46 00
Docteur Renaud
Clarins
The French professional skincare brand
Docteur Renaud has created the Peach
Sublime Body Dry Oil to help hydrate
the skin and leave a non-greasy finish.
It combines the moisturising and
nourishing properties of peach kernel
oil with the regenerating and
restructuring powers of grapeseed
oil plus the “beauty elixir” plum kernel
oil. The oil is clinically proven to provide
a 112 per cent increase in hydration of
the skin within 30 minutes of
application and a 42 per cent increase
in hydration after 28 days of use.
Call: + 971 6 573 93 92
Clarins offers three body treatment
oils. These blends of essential oils
and plant extracts were created in
1954 and have remained unchanged
ever since. The three oils are Tonic,
Anti-Eau and Relax. Tonic maintains
and improves skin tone and contains
rosemary to reduce puffiness as well
as sage and mint for their wellbeing
and cooling properties. Anti-Eau
helps eliminate toxins and boosts
skin circulation and contains broom,
marjoram, lemon and geranium to
reduce fluid retention. Relax helps with muscle
fatigue and tension, and contains petitgrain and
chamomile which are recognised for their calming
and soothing properties.
Call: +971 4 299 61 11
20/03/2014 11:25
salon profile
42
FACEvalue
Award-winning facialist Lydia Espin tells Fiona Vlemmiks
why opening her own business was worth the wait
What’s your beauty industry background?
I’ve been in the beauty industry for more than 10 years.
I always wanted to do beauty but my parents wanted
me to study business so I completed my qualifications
and then went back to college to study beauty. It was
my passion. I’m glad I did it that way as I’ve used my
business qualifications in setting up my own business.
I went to work in a spa on a voluntary basis for four
months before they offered me a job, but by the end of
my time there I ended up being the manager of two
branches. I then came out to Dubai and I worked in a
beauty salon for nearly five years as a manager and
then I decided to start my own business. I’ve had
many opportunities along the way to start my own
business, people have offered to invest in me, but I
wanted to wait until I was ready. It took me to 10 years
to get here but the experience I had along the way
helped me immensely.
Tell us more about your facialist awards
and accolades
I have won the Dermalogica Best Skin Therapist of the
year award and the Elemis Facial Therapist of the year. I
have worked with Dermalogica from the beginning, I
even won their student award! Dermalogica approached
me and said “I think you should go for this award”. There
was a written exam, a practical exam and an interview.
All the examiners were different trainers from across the
Middle East. I found out I’d won on the night of the
awards. It was amazing. It was the highlight of my career.
I hear there is a waiting list for your facials?
I only perform facial work in the salon now due to other
duties, but I do work the business. I’m fully hands-on,
everyday. I remember at the beginning panicking that I
wouldn’t get enough clients but through word of mouth
How did Essa evolve?
I started off with not much money and it was very scary
doing it on a budget. I sourced everything myself, from
the taps to the sinks, to the towels. Every single piece of
furniture, every towel, has a story. I remember buying
every piece. Sometimes I have to pinch myself to remind
me that I have achieved this! I started out alone and then
I slowly built my staff to eight members.
42-43 PBGCC APR14 salon profile.indd 42
20/03/2014 11:26
salon profile
43
“I sourced
everything
myself, from the
taps to the sinks, to
the towels. Every
single piece of
furniture, every
towel, has
a story.”
on OPI nails. After opening the business, I
went home for a holiday and found my old
coursework. In my “salon” I said I wanted
to use OPI, Dermalogica and Elemis! We
have recently taken on a third range –
Eminence. It’s completely organic and I decided
to offer this as many clients are asking for organic
treatments. Lots of pregnant ladies want organic
treatments, so we also use Voya for nails as that is also
safe in pregnancy.
Who makes up your client base?
customers soon arrived and before I knew it there was
an eight-week waiting list for my facials. I was working six
days a week, back-to-back on facials. I did this for a year
but I soon became exhausted so I hired two members of
staff and now the waiting list has gone down!
What makes an award-winning facial therapist?
You need to know your stuff and have that knowledgebase behind your treatment, and you need to perform
to a high standard. You need to really address the
client’s skin problems and get results for them. It’s about
offering a bespoke service and ensuring that you get
clients to follow a homecare plan. You get good results
from a facial but you can’t maintain the results unless
you use the correct products at home. I always tell my
clients that it’s like going to the gym. If you just go once
a month, you are not going to see results.
What elements are important when selecting
brands for your salons?
I’ve always known I would use Elemis and Dermalogica. I
had to set up a fictional salon in college as part of my
coursework. We had to choose a name, the brands we
were going to use. I came here to open my business and
I started with Dermalogica and I took on Elemis later. I
love both brands for different reasons. They work well
together because they are very different. I also decided
It’s varied. We get most of our clients through word of
mouth and we get some passing trade. We get Dubai
residents rather than holidaymakers due to our location
and we have clients from seven years of age (if they
come with their mums, they can have nails painted with
the organic Voya nail varnish) to the age of 81! Most of
our clients are repeat business.
How do you see the beauty industry evolving in
the Middle East?
I think the opportunites for businesses are much better
here than in the UK. People here are more likely to spend
on beauty. Dubai is cosmpolitian and people like to feel
and look good. The opportinuties here are endless.
What is your vision for Essa in 2014 and beyond?
I am not in the express beauty business as many places
are here. I am trying to create an environment where
people can take time out and relax but not have to pay
spa prices. I like people to make time to come and I won’t
rush treatments. We don’t target people who want quick
lunchtime treatments. I am sticking to my roots. This is
how salons operate in the UK. It’s been a busy two years
setting up the business and I definitely want to open
more branches but I am enjoying where I’m at for now
and I don’t want to rush things. Maybe I will start thinking
about expansion at the end of the year. PB
42-43 PBGCC APR14 salon profile.indd 43
20/03/2014 11:26
Shirin speaks
45
Shirin Abdulrazak explains the impact of staff poaching
and how to prevent it by placing greater value on your team
Star treatment
A
shortage of experienced staff, with proper
language skills, is a key issue for the beauty
business. At Sisters, we look for staff with
“star-quality” and once we employ someone
we begin a rigorous year of training. If that
staff member is then poached by another business, the
consequences are far reaching.
The poaching of key personnel injures the former
employer who will not only lose a good staff member,
they may further lose loyal customers to a rival salon,
their trade secrets and their customer data – jeopardising
overall profitability.
So how do we prevent this from happening? At Sisters
we enjoy a healthy staff retention level as our staff are
incentivised and enjoy great working conditions. This
promotes loyalty.
The secret of beauty and attractiveness has been a
quest of humans for as long as we have been civilised.
Many women spend up to one-third of their income on
looking good and in the process develop great
relationships with the people who make them look good.
As a salon owner I have, many
times, witnessed clients
treat the salon staff as
they would a near-anddear, special someone.
A hairstylist, waxer,
nail tech, indeed,
every good therapist,
enjoys a special
relationship
with
each of her clients.
Some employers fail to
appreciate this and
are simply customerfocused. Yet I believe it
is also important to be
staff-focused.
“MANY WOMEN SPEND UP TO
ONE-THIRD OF THEIR INCOME
ON LOOKING GOOD AND IN
THE PROCESS DEVELOP GREAT
RELATIONSHIPS WITH THE PEOPLE
WHO MAKE THEM LOOK GOOD”
When I started out in the industry, staff conditions
were less than desirable. Yet we believe in staff
relationship management that will parallel our
customer relationship management. I didn’t want my
staff whining away about their employment problems
to clients. I wanted them to relax and feel happy. I
wanted to engage with happy staff in an ambience
that was positive and cheerful. To influence the staff
mindset we have to engage with staff at a human level,
understand their needs and motivations of coming to
work and live alone in the UAE, leaving their families.
Nonetheless, despite these efforts, a small
percentage of staff is poached from time to time.
However, in almost all cases ex-employees return to
Sisters, pleading for their job back as the grass was
not as green as it seemed.
In conclusion, employee poaching in highly skilled
labour markets has been a growing concern for many
industries, not just salons. Businesses must not
obstruct the efficient flow of workers to where their
skills are most productive, but at the same time we
should be concerned about the potential damages
from predatory hiring. This goes beyond the traditional
tradeoff between the freedom to change jobs and the
protection of proprietary information. Being stafffocused as well as customer-focused should help you
gain staff loyalty and serve as a protection against
poaching problems. PB
Shirin Abdulrazak is founder of successful salon chain Sisters Beauty
Lounge. Ask her opinion or advice at news@professionalbeauty.ae
45 PBGCC APR14 Shirins column.indd 45
20/03/2014 11:26
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spa profile
47
THE
French
The relaxation area at
So Spa, Sofitel, the Palm
CONNECTION
Fiona Vlemmiks catches up with spa specialist Aldina Duarte Ramos
to discuss wellness and the ethos behind the So Spa brand
I
t’s the first day of the Sofitel So Spa seminar and the
group’s spa mangers from around the globe are arriving at
the luxury French hotel chain’s property on the Palm, Dubai.
Aldina Duarte Ramos, director of development of
wellness activities, is clear about the chief message
she wants to portray during the event, where managers are
gathering to share best practice.
“It’s all about wellness,” she tells me. “We are the We
generation”, is our slogan. Wellness is everywhere. I want to
get across that it is about creating links between every
function in the hotel to give the guest a full wellness
experience, not just in the spa.”
Duarte Ramos, who has been in her current role since
2012, has a wealth of industry experience and is also
president of Spa A, the French spa association. She is
responsible for the strategic repositioning of the Sofitel
brand globally and is credited with the design and
deployment of the So Spa wellbeing concept. Her remit
also includes Sofitel Thalassa Sea and Spa, 14 hotels
dedicated to thalassotherapy – the therapeutic use of the
ocean and marine products.
“We decided to join spa and wellness expertise and
create a joint division. I’ve been working on the
repositioning of thalassotherapy to bring more spa into it,
in terms of attitude and routine, and thanks to
thalassotherpay we are bringing more innovation into spa.”
Inspired by thalassotherapy, Duarte Ramos is unveiling a
new treatment to managers at the seminar, which will involve
the use of oxygen, aromatherapy and micro-needling.
“Here in the Middle East clients want fast results, so we
need to bring technology to our spa offer. We have a
wonderful machine that we use in thalassotherapy; it’s a
machine that can infuse oxygen into the skin. It has
fantastic results and because we have had such wonderful
experience with it in thalassotherapy, now I want to bring it
to the spa. It has powerful rejuvenating and anti-ageing
effects. We’re very excited.”
Veritable feast
French elegance is at the heart of the Sofitel
brand and accordingly, So Spa uses only French
products such as the Anne Semonin luxury
skincare range. It has recently partnered with
former actress and model Marisa Berenson, who
has created a range of cosmetics and beauty
treatments exclusively for the hotel group.
Berenson’s signature treatment will be launched
in Dubai this year when the actress is set to visit
the region.
One element that sets So
Spa apart is its innovative
treatment menu, which
Duarte Ramos says is the
spa’s “DNA”. She explains
the concept behind it:
“We were working on the
Sofitel repositioning and Muse Marisa Berenson
and her beauty range,
Sofitel is all about French designed for So Spa
47-49 PBGCC APR14 Sofitel.indd 47
20/03/2014 11:27
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spa profile
49
The treatment area
at So Spa, Sofitel,
the Palm
elegance, about cuisine, about gastronomy. We wanted the
spa to be a serious thing, but we wanted it also to be fun. I
had one hundred treatment menus in my office. They had
all the treatments listed by category and we said ‘okay, isn’t
there another way to create our menu’?
“We said, ‘Ok, when you go to a spa you need to prepare
your body. This could be the starter in terms of the menu.
The starter could be a body polish, a body scrub, a bath.
This is a starter perfect – it works’!
“Then you have your main treatment, your main treatment could be your main course. It could be a facial, a body
massage or a ritual, but this will be your main purpose for
the visit to the spa. And then you might like to have a little
add on treatment. This will be the dessert, maybe an extra
30-minute massage on your head or your feet, maybe you
would like to your feet and nails done, maybe you would
like to have some hair and make-up. It was so easy to put
together. The menu differentiates us from other spas. Our
DNA is the menu.”
The menu is filled with bespoke treatments, or experiences,
and guests enjoy a “butler service” when they arrive for a
consultation. But what is at the heart of a perfect spa
experience for guests? Duarte Ramos believes we need to
listen to the guests and ask the right questions.
“We assume sometimes that the guest knows what he
wants, but sometimes he just wants to be taken care of, so
we need to let the guest understand that he can relax now
and that we are in charge. We need to avoid the ‘mini
stress’ of the guest and anticipate his every need. Just ask,
‘How long are staying with us? How do you feel right now?
How would you like to feel after the treatment? Do you
have a special event afterwards? Are you on vacation?
Would you like to relax after the treatment?’ These simple
questions show guests that you really care and this can
make all the difference.”
The Sofitel is due to open its downtown Dubai venue in
May, where the So Spa will focus on business clientele. There
is a further opening in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, set for 2015. PB
Under the rain
I was invited to trial the So Spa experience myself, at the
Palm, in the form of the signature Under The Rain experience.
Under The Rain employs a Vichy shower and involves
elements of aroma, sound and colour therapy. I lie on a
warm, water-filled mattress that emits different colours
throughout the treatment. Assorted sounds, such as
birdsong, lull me into serenity as my therapist washes my
body, rinses with warm water and then commences with
a thorough body scrub. It is invigorating and I can feel my
body (but not my skin) tingling – like my circulation has
been given a well-needed boost.
The Vichy shower releases a lavender aroma, which
is deeply relaxing, and when the water is employed, it is
warm and comforting like tropical rain. A body mask is
applied and a tent is erected around my body so it can be
steamed to propel the product, a natural clay, into my skin.
I then have a mini facial and relaxing head massage.
My therapist explains that she can switch off the steam,
at any point, should I become uncomfortable, but I enjoy
the warmth. She is attentive throughout, with fabulous
knowledge of the benefits of the treatment and
product. Once the facial is complete, and the body mask
is showered off, I am taken into another room for the
application of moisturiser before being led back to the
relaxation area where I sip herbal tea and enjoy the
warmth of a lavender wheat pillow.
I’ve never felt quite so clean and smooth, as well as
relaxed. The next day I feel energised and uplifted. The
treatment is detoxifying, my skin is clear and my mind
less foggy. The area I notice the most skin improvement
on is my back, which often I neglect to moisturise. My
skin is now buttery soft and the condition remains
improved for weeks afterward.
Aldina Duarte Ramos has been director of
development and wellness activities at
Sofitel since 2012. She has worked within
the wellness sector for 14 years and
has been president of the French Spa A
Association since 2008.
47-49 PBGCC APR14 Sofitel.indd 49
20/03/2014 11:28
Untitled-3 1
04/02/2014 14:57
Altearah Bio Colour Therapy
Attention spas, therapists, healers and beauty centres! Altearah Bio is a 100% Organic French Colour
Therapy range. A combination of aromatherapy and chromotherapy, the range comprises of 14 colours
and scents that harmonise the mind, body and spirit. Distributed in the Middle East by Spadunya
Distribution, the ready-to-use essential oil compositions are formulated in perfumes, face and body oils,
serums, gommages, bath salts, fragrances and candles. These products are an ideal complement for
anyone working in the wellbeing industry to either include the treatments or recommend products to
clients. Spadunya provides full training.
For enquiries:
E: info@spadunyadistribution-me.com • T: +971 4 4298662
www.altearahbio.com • www.spadunyaclub.com
Untitled-4 1
*PB GCC April 2014 Adverts Placed.indd 1
17/3/14 12:30:40
18/3/14 15:58:55
global medispa
51
THE BIG
freeze
The new generation of fat-freezing machines
promises pain-free, permanent results but
is the technology too good to be true? Eve
Oxberry finds out in our report from the UK
C
ryogenic lipolysis may sound like a futuristic and specialist
procedure, but in fact it’s the simplicity and almost universal
appeal of this “fat freezing” technology that’s causing more and
more businesses to investigate its potential.
Cryo lipo machines work on stubborn pockets of fat, by using
a vacuum motion, which sucks the area, then cryotherapy (the use of
extremely cold temperatures) to freeze it. The freezing temperatures
cause some of the fat cells in the area to die. These dead cells are then
naturally eliminated through the body’s endocrine system.
Like many aesthetic technologies, this treatment started out
in clinics, with machines such as Zeltiq’s CoolSculpt. As
the technology has become more commonplace, a new
generation of easy-to-operate and more affordable machines,
such as 3D-Aesthetics’ 3D-lipo, Lipoglaze by Lovelite, and
Aesthetics of London’s various machines, are now targeting
the beauty and spa market.
“The original technology in the USA was outside the
financial commitment of most salons,” agrees Rajiv Dash,
managing director of Aesthetics of London, which
manufactures and sells cryo lipo machines and also uses
them in its clinics. “However, with the advent of cheaper
and decent-quality equipment the product is now accessible
to most mid-sized salons.”
One of the major attractions of cryo lipolysis is that, unlike
most non-invasive body contouring technologies, the effect
51-53 PBGCC APR14 Global Medispa.indd 51
20/03/2014 11:32
global medispa
53
is permanent. Freezing
causes cell death via a
process known as apoptosis,
and those dead fat cells can
never return. However, the fat cells
around the treated area can still grow in size, meaning
clients may put weight back on if they don’t exercise and
follow a healthy diet. “By the time we reach puberty we have
the maximum number of fat cells we’re ever going to get
then all they do is expand,” says Debra Robson, director of
Lovelite, which sells the Lipoglaze machine. “Each cryo
lipolysis treatment kills cells but if you don’t follow a sensible
eating plan others can grow in size.”
Another advantage of cryo lipo is that it is relatively
painless and results can often be seen after just one
treatment. “That is a huge draw because with any machines,
one of the first questions from clients is always ‘how many
will I have to have?’,” says Jenny Adams, who uses the
3D-lipo machine in her UK salon.
Most machines are also easy to operate, allowing
therapists to set them in motion then leave them to run
through the cycle for an hour, just checking on the client
intermittently, freeing them up to get other work done.
Know your limits
The technology sounds almost too good to be true, but like
any equipment it has its limitations. The time taken to see
results can also vary, depending in part on a client’s
metabolism, but some manufacturers say it could take up to
four months to see the full effect. It’s also not suitable for
very overweight people as it can only target small areas of
fat rather than overall weightloss.
Soft options
Unsurprisingly, the abdomen is usually the most popular
area for treatment. Adams reveals that it is particularly
effective on post-baby tummies, especially as the 3D-lipo,
which she uses, also includes radiofrequency technology for
skin tightening.
Dash says the treatment is suitable for all areas of the
body except around the chest but adds “the typical client is
female, between the ages of 30 and 50 with the most
common areas being lower abdomen, inner thighs and arms.”
“You get the best results on the abdomen where fat is
Lipoglaze
One of the major
attractions of cryo
lipolysis is that, unlike
most non-invasive
body contouring
technologies, the effect
is permanent
soft,” adds Robson-Lawrence. “Areas with harder fat, such
as the outer thighs, are more difficult to treat.”
Meanwhile Adams says that the technology is not ideal
for those with an “apple shape” figure. “The fat is too deep
and won’t suck up into the headpiece so you need to start
with cavitation to reduce the bulk, then you can use cryo on
the stubborn areas left.”
The largest market for most seems to be women over
40. Adams, whose salon is based alongside a gym, says
it’s also popular with fitness fanatics who eat well and
exercise but are still left with stubborn areas of fat.
“When I first took on a laser lipo machine gym-goers
thought it would be cheating but this is more appealing
to them because it’s more about contouring and everyone
has stubborn bulges.”
Men are not excluded from cryo lipolysis either. “It’s very
popular with men to target the tummy,” says Pearce. “It
tends to be popular with men who’ve been on major diets.”
Spread the word
Businesses interested in buying or leasing a cryo
machine should first conduct research. Check that you
will have exclusivity in your area, and make sure there is
demand for the treatment. Create special offers to drum
up interest and build clients before the machine arrives.
Most of the machine brands have a salon finder function
on their websites, which can help generate clients.
While the technology is still relatively new to the
beauty market, Robson Lawrence says it is already
advancing. “We’ve developed a machine with three
heads to treat different sized areas and our next machine
will be able to treat two areas at the same time, which
will be great for thighs.” Lipoglaze is also developing its
own aftercare cream containing arnica
to reduce bruising, and chamomile
and lavender to soothe. PB
Contacts
www.zeltiq.com
www.loveliteuk.co.uk
www.3D-aesthetics.co.uk
51-53 PBGCC APR14 Global Medispa.indd 53
20/03/2014 11:33
hair trends
54
glory
CROWNING
From the “lob” to mermaid waves, this season hair is all about
S
statement. We get the lowdown from leading stylist Marie Dowling.
pring is all about sharp, elegant hair that
stands out from the crowd. Mid-length styles,
which we call a “lob” (long bob), will be a
very strong trend for the rest of 2014.
Already we have lots of clients changing
from long hair and bringing the length just
below the shoulders. This is also good for anyone
growing out a bob. The best thing about mid-length hair
is that is can be worn sleek, curly, tossed or choppy. Good
examples of the lob are Alexa Chung, Olivia Palermo and
actress Rose Burne.
In terms of styling, mermaid waves (as featured on
the front cover) are in. This is a much softer, random
wave, rather than a perfect wave throughout the hair.
We will also see a lot of low ponytails with centre partings.
Bobs and the pixie crop are still strong for this year. The
gypsy shag haircuts, which were popular in the 1970s, are
making a comeback this season. On the ’70’s theme, hair
is full, bouncy and glossy. A perfect example is Kate Moss’s
54-55 PBGCC APR14 Hair trends.indd 54
latest campaign for Kerastase. Normally she has more of a
casual style, but her hair on this shoot is full of body.
Cutting-edge colour
In the salon, we are working with a lot of cool browns
this year. For beige blondes think Taylor Swift, Nicole
Richie or Blake Lively. Blondes will also be more natural
– less of the platinum blonde and more tone, depending
on the skin tone, and the depth of the hair.
Highlights are out and we are softening clients’ ombré to
what we call ‘sombré’, which is a much more toned down
version of ombré – a few shades darker, but lighter than
the top colour. It’s less obvious and more natural looking.
For those moving away from ombre, we are
recommending clients move the light ends further up
the hair. For example, Kim Kardashian now has less root
area on the top. A client’s skin tone will determine
whether they can have the lighter colour near their face,
so a good consultation is essential.
“The Bob”
20/03/2014 11:33
hair trends
55
“The Lob”
On the ’70s
theme, hair is full,
bouncy and glossy.
A perfect example
is Kate Moss’s latest
campaign for
Kerastase
MAKINGwaves
Create our cover girl look with Maria’s
step-by-step guide
STEP 1: Shampoo and lightly condition the mid-length
through to the ends of the hair, and make sure you apply
a heat protector before blow-drying.
STEP 2: Finger dry until 90 per cent dry, then smooth
with your styling brush.
STEP 3: Start by taking sections from the underneath
(approx 1 inch thick), and using a Mariadowling Ritual M
Curling wand, wind the hair from the wide area to the
slim area of the wand. Hold in place and count to 12
before releasing slowly, keeping hold of the end of the
curl and pulling down. This is so important, as the curl
settles while cooling down so you need to do this to
retain the curl shape.
STEP 4: Continue with this pattern and always work the
curls out away from your client’s face.
STEP 5: For the final brushing out think of the hair being
in two sections: the left side and right side. Slowly run
your hand through the hair to bring it together while
keeping it close to your client’s head. Then with the hair
in your hands, pull the hair downwards and allow the
wave to spring back into place when you get to the end
of the hair. Repeat on the opposite side.
“The Crop”
Maria Dowling is one of the most respected stylists in the Middle East with her Dubai-based salon specialising in bespoke
colour services. She has also developed a range of signature hair-styling tools.
For more information call: + 971 4 345 42 25 or visit www.mariadowling.com
54-55 PBGCC APR14 Hair trends.indd 55
All images courtesy of Maria Dowling salon
STEP 6: To finish, apply a light serum to keep it looking
smooth. A light hairspray will maintain the look. PB
20/03/2014 11:34
KEVIN.MURPHY
SULPHATE FREE. PARABEN FREE. CRUELTY FREE.
Kevin Murphy Middle East
PB full page.indd 1
To become a KEVIN.MURPHY stockist and capitalise
on the excellent retailing opportunities,
please contact +971 4 341 4820 / +971 50 527 2397 / lubna@kevinmurphy-me.com
www.kevinmurphy.com.au
5/3/14 09:48:10
hair interview
57
Jez Barnett, managing director of
KeraStraight, gives gives us the gen
on the brand’s success
Straight talk
T
aming wild tresses that are unruly due to
condition or type is the goal of hairdressers
globally. Particularly in our region, due to
environmental factors, repair and straightening
systems have become big business.
KeraStraight is a semi-permanent hair repair, straightening
and smoothing system that improves condition, strength
and shine and can last up to four months.
“KeraStraight’s main active ingredient is cysteine,
which is a naturally found amino acid,” explains Jez
Barnett, managing director. “This amino acid is added to
the existing protein molecules to form a semi-permanent
patch across the hair’s inner structure to create a new
shape with the aid of heat.”
The treatment is suitable for any client that struggles
with curly, wavy, frizzy or unruly hair. KeraStraight is a
treatment that rebuilds the keratin, the natural protein
which gives hair and nails strength, within the hair,
working both internally and externally on the hair,
simultaneously repairing and straightening all hair types.
The process takes three to four hours.
The brand also offers a range of products to maintain
the results such as the in-salon Intense Boost Treatments,
a Protein Mask and a Moisture Mask that can be used to
rehydrate and smooth the hair.
“Intense Boost repairs and feeds hair in just 30
minutes and lasts up to 30 days,” says Barnett. “It is
available in two variants, Moisture Boost and Protein
Boost. As our treatments are based on proteins, we
can strengthen and repair all hair types and
transform the hair up to the very last tip.”
KeraStraight - the hair after a treatment
“Our products are designed by hairdressers who
understand the needs of both salons and their clients.
We also have the endorsement of some of the greatest
award-winning hairdressers who value the KeraStraight
treatment range as not only providing the ultimate
results but also in the fact that KeraStraight is completely
and certifiably safe for the user and consumer.”
Joining the brand’s line of shampoos, conditioners and
aftercare products is the newly-launched Ultimate Oil
product and the KS Style range. KeraStraight Ultimate
Oil is a blend of nine oils, which provide intense
nourishment to transform and repair hair from the inside
and out. Ultimate Oil’s non-greasy, lightweight formula
absorbs easily into the hair to protect and strengthen,
leaving all hair types ultra-smooth, shiny and frizz free.
“OUR PRODUCTS ARE DESIGNED
BY HAIRDRESSERS WHO
UNDERSTAND THE NEEDS OF BOTH
SALONS AND THEIR CLIENTS”
KS Style comprises a range of five style products that
feed the hair as you style.
Explains Barnett, “The foundation of the KS Style
range, KS Care & Protect Complex is an exclusive, heatactivated trilogy of wheat-based proteins that penetrate
the hair’s cortex to fortify and rebuild, as well as
re-enforcing the cuticle to provide repair and enhanced
shine.
This innovative protein technology rebuilds the hair’s
strength and elasticity, restores moisture and delivers
superior heat protection.”
The new KS Style product range includes, Rescue
Crème, Moisture Mist, Root Lift Spray Gel, Heat
Protection Spray and Glossing Texture Crème. PB
For more information on KeraStraight please call
Rapid General Trading + 971 55 105 79 93
57 PBGCC APR14 Hair interview.indd 57
20/03/2014 11:35
treatment news
58
Luxury living
This month’s treatments are all about indulgence with a five-star
facial and royal hammam experience
NEW: Yon-ka Neroli Candle Massage
Following on from the success of Yon-ka’s original massage
candle, the French brand has devised the Neroli treatment
candle. The candle fills the treatment room with a scent of
neroli, petitgrain and orange essential oils to help calm and
relax the client. The one-hour massage then begins with a
warm foot compress, followed by the warm candle oil
massage. Three warm Phyto-Bain foot compresses are then
used to end the treatment. The candle can also be
purchased by the client afterwards.
Call Medispa Solutions: +971 5 2879 07 72
This month we tried...
Natura Bissé – The Diamond Facial in the
Bubble Pure Air chamber
The lowdown: Natura Bissé – Bubble Pure Air is a new
concept for facial and body treatments performed in a
tent where 99.995% pure air is pumped around, creating
a clean environment. The purified air is completely free
of polluting particles as well as viral, bacterial, and
allergen agents, maximising the effects of the treatment.
The Diamond Facial provides deep exfoliation and
long-lasting hydration to improve the skin’s elasticity.
Anti-ageing products penetrate to the deepest layers
of the skin to help it to regenerate.
How it worked: The bubble is a round, white, tent with
enough room inside to perform the treatment
comfortably. The air inside is cool and you can hear it
being pumped around as the treatment commences. A
lavender inhalation lulled me into relaxation as my skin
was cleansed and toned. The Glyco Extreme Peel was
then applied, which fizzed on my skin but was gentle
enough not to cause any tingling. I enjoyed an arm massage
using the brand’s body cream that left a lovely shimmer.
Next came the facial massage, comprising a relaxing pressure
point massage followed by the cryo-lifting mask and a lovely
scalp massage. The treatment ended with an application of
moisturiser from the brand’s Diamond line.
Best for: Clients who want immediate and visible anti-ageing
results. Perfect before a big event.
PB says: I could see an instant improvement in my skin, which
was softer, smoother and more luminous. There was a definite
lift around my eye area and the fine lines appeared reduced. The
following day I woke up completely rejuvenated and energised,
which I attributed to the oxygen chamber. My mind felt clearer
and I was much more productive due to my replenished energy
levels. The most surprising result was how long my skin radiance
lasted, I noticed improvement for at least a fortnight afterwards.
Tested by Fiona Vlemmiks at The Spa, The Address
Downtown, Dubai.
58-59 PBGCCAPR14 Treatments.indd 58
20/03/2014 11:35
treatment reviews
59
This month we tried...
The Ultimate Zen Hammam
The lowdown: The hammam experience is a time honored
Middle Eastern tradition. The effects of hammam include
pain relief, muscle relaxation, and respiratory benefits. It is
also detoxifying, stress-relieving, and promotes beautiful
skin. A traditional hammam experience involves the
cleansing, exfoliation and moisturising of the body in a
steam chamber. Zen Spa at the Rotana, Al Ain, has created a
series of bespoke hammam rituals and The Ultimate Zen is
the spa’s most luxurious, including the application of a body
mask and facial.
How it works: The spa is tranquil and ambient and my
therapist is attentive, ensuring I know what to expect and
frequently checking to see how comfortable I am. I’m led
into the steam room, which is cool enough for me to stay in
for the 90-minute experience. My therapist applies black
soap to cleanse and soften my skin in preparation for the
kese (exfoliating mitt), which removes my dead skin. The
scrubbing is brisk but I find it reviving and revitalising, and I
can feel my nose clear and my breathing improve due to
the steam. A mineral-rich body mask is then applied, and I
enjoy a facial using ingredients infused with date extracts
to soften and brighten the skin. It smells good enough to
eat! The accompanying massage is wonderful. The body
mask is showered off and the ritual ends with oil being
poured scent over my body to moisturise my skin, leaving
a lovely aroma. My therapist performs a brief massage to
reawaken my body so I’m ready to face to world again.
Best for: Those wanting a pure pampering experience that
is also results-driven.
PB says: This was my first hammam experience and I
hadn’t anticipated how wonderful I would feel afterwards.
I’m definitely a convert. I wasn’t sure whether I’d find
prolonged use of steam uncomfortable, but I was
comfortable throughout. The Rotana at Al Alin is favoured
by royalty and I can see why. My skin was left squeaky
clean, smooth and shiny and I am refreshed and relaxed.
Both effects last for days afterwards.
Tested by Fiona Vlemmiks at Zen, the Spa Rotana, Al Alin
NEW: Comfort Zone Longevity Body
Treatment
Comfort Zone has extended its Skin Regimen line to include
body products and as part of the launch, the Italian skincare
house has created a spa body treatment called Longevity.
Offering an express service with visible results, it takes just
30 minutes and aims to renew, restore, tone and reposition
the skin tissues for a youthful, healthier appearance.
Techniques used are inspired by the Kabat method, a
neuromuscular rehabilitation system used to reinforce skin
tissue and muscle elasticity. The treatment uses two
products from the new line, the Juvenate body scrub, with
key ingredients including chia seeds to detoxify and
tropaeolum extract to oxygenate, and Juvenate Body
cream with matcha tea and caffeine.
Call: +971 4 447 76 36
58-59 PBGCCAPR14 Treatments.indd 59
20/03/2014 11:36
new products
61
Nouveau Lashes
The product line has grown and now
offers an extensive range of lash
treatments and products for both
natural and false lashes offering strong
retail opportunities. The oil free eye
make- up remover prolongs the life
of clients' lash extensions if used at
home regularly. The LVL conditioning
serum protects, strengthens and
nourishes clients' natural lashes after
a lash-lifting treatment.
Call +971 4 345 46 46
eyes
HAVE IT
THE
This month we are focusing
on products for the eye area
as well as showcasing what’s new
Phytomer
The Expertise Age Contour Intense Youth Eye
Cream, which can be used for retail and
professionally, comprises a high-performance,
anti-ageing formula designed to target and
reduce visible signs of ageing in wrinkle-prone
areas like the eyes and lips. This lightweight
cream is easily absorbed and works quickly to
rejuvenate mature as well as stressed skin.
Marine Criste, a seaside plant, is one of the main
ingredients. It has a “retinol-like” effect which
smoothes and corrects crow's feet and firms the
eye's contours. Used daily, the eyes should
become brighter and visibly younger.
Call: +971 2 676 46 00
Jane Iredale
Mystikols is a dual-ended powder eyeliner and highlighter that creates
smoky eyes in seconds, employing a creamy powder formula, which
the brand says won’t fade, crease or smear. It is hypoallergenic,
dermatologist tested and safe for sensitive eyes. One end of the
product is for liner and shadow, the other end is a coordinating
highlighter. The pigment itself is housed in the twist-off caps on either
end. The liner is designed for tight-lining, using the tip, and is great for a
softer, smoky line - if the side of the applicator is used. The highlighter
end is rounded so it can be placed on the brow bone or in the inner eye
corners, for a hint of light. The cap is pumped to reload the applicator.
Mystikols is available in aquamarine, citrine, malachite, amethyst, dark
topaz, lapis lazuli, and onyx.
Call: +971 4 447 76 36
61-64 PBGCCAPR14 Product News.indd 61
20/03/2014 11:37
new products
62
Aromatherapy Associates
Dermalogica
The New Relax Eye Mask can be retailed to
clients as the perfect night-time accessory
to ensure a good night’s sleep. The lightly
cushioned eye mask is subtly scented with
natural lavender and the soft, velvet lining
blocks out the light. It comes with adjustable
straps and is designed in collaboration with
Holistic Silk, a manufacturer of internationally
renowned therapeutic for therapeutic
relaxation accessories.
Call +971 4 379 19 66
Researched and developed by The
International Dermal Institute, Age Reversal
Eye Complex now offers new protection
against the multiple factors that contribute to
visible signs of ageing to the eye area. The
product is the latest addition to the brand’s
Age Smart system. Designed to be applied
after cleansing, the product fights the multiple
signs of ageing, including fine lines, wrinkles,
hyperpigmentation, and loss of contour. Key to
the success of the new formula is retinoid,
which contributes to the reversal of fine lines,
wrinkles, sun damage, and darkened areas. An
active blend of botanicals and peptides also
helps decrease the permeability of under-eye
capillaries, increase blood microcirculation,
reduce congestion and improve lymphatic
drainage. Addressing the key causes of key
causes of shadows and “bags” under the eyes.
Call: +971 4 447 76 36
Phytoceane
Phytoceane skincare offers clients a triple line of attack against eye ageing.
There is an Eye Contour treatment to tackle dark circles and puffiness, a Wrinkle
Smoothing treatment for plumping wrinkles and fine lines and Aquasaphir Eye
Cream, which treats all signs of ageing around the eye area, reducing fine lines,
wrinkles, dark circles and puffiness.
Call +971 4 345 46 46
20/03/2014 11:55
new products
63
Comfort Zone
The Eye Supreme Cream
Gel offers soothing and
hydrating eye care. Eye
Supreme Cream Gel is a
cool, moisturising and
anti-stress cream gel that
visibly reduces dark circles
and puffiness around the
eyes. The product is suitable
for clients who wear contact
lenses and who spend hours
in front of the computer. It is
also recommended for young
skins as a preventive treatment.
Call: +971 4 447 76 36
HD Brows
Brow brand HD Brows has launched a 76-strong line of professional make-up
products designed for salons and make-up artists. The new line of Make Up By
HD Brows has been created to meet demand from the brand’s salon accounts
according to founder Nilam Patel.
The brand already had a capsule make-up collection, which includes brow
paletttes and pencils. However, the new collection will feature updated eye and
brow palettes, with added wax, new product formulations and new packaging,
along with nine shades of both liquid and powder bases and a selection of
brushes. There will also be three new eye-shadow palettes, each with five shades.
Call + 971 50 841 42 89
Hi Brow
The Hi Brow Growth & Conditioning Serum for lashes
and brows is a daily treatment serum for thicker,
fuller and healthier looking lashes and brows.
Featuring a mascara wand applicator, it is easy to
use and helps to groom brows into shape, keeping
them in place, while the light, transparent serum
coats the hairs from root to tip.
Formulated with keratin and caffeine, the serum
helps enhance and stimulate healthy hair growth.
With regular use, brows and lashes will appear more
conditioned, smoother and glossier.
Clients can use it daily to create conditioned hair
and to stimulate healthy growth and it can be applied
before bed as an overnight beauty treatment.
Call + 971 4 344 22 61 ext 114
20/03/2014 11:39
new products
64
Beautytek Avita Plus
The new machine, dubbed the “fat-away”, offers
cavitation and radiofrequency in one beauty system.
Beautytek Avita Plus is a two-in-one system offering
both fat reduction for the body and double chin with
stable cavitation and ultrasound, plus an anti-ageing
treatment via radiofrequency using just one device.
The product is safe, non invasive and pain-free.
Call: +971 5 0131 27 79
Lipstick Queen
Elemis
Elemis has introduced its new
Jasmine and Rose Milk Bath,
the sister to the award-winning
Skin Nourishing Milk Bath.
The product includes a
skin-softening formula, rich in
nourishing oils and
softening flower milks,
to offer an aromatic,
sensorial bathing
experience.
With exotic
aromatic oils of
Egyptian jasmine and
Turkish rose absolute,
this cleansing milk
bath has been
formulated to
promote a sense of
serenity and calm.
Nourishing argan oil
and camellia seed oil
protect and moisturise
the skin, whilst flower
milks of jasmine and
white lotus leave skin
feeling beautifully soft
and delicately
fragranced.
Call: +971 4 324 54 14
When Poppy King struggled to find the perfect lipstick
in her hometown of Melbourne, Australia, she made it
her quest to create the ideal matte lipstick that would
create instant glamour. Inspired by this passion, she
launched Lipstick Queen – a brand dedicated to those
obsessed with lipstick and anything to do with lips. The
brand launched in Barneys, New York, and it has fast
become a favourite with celebrities. In just under 10
years, Lipstick Queen has become a cult brand in the
US, UK and Australia and now it’s here in the UAE.
Call: +971 4 374 69 70
20/03/2014 11:40
training
66
Superior customer service should be the aim of
every business in our industry. But getting it right
takes training, writes Sally Hewerdine
Reading needs
C
ustomer service is an area that most salon and spa
Learn the lingo
managers would like to see improvement in. In
It is important to remind staff that customers are not just
Professional Beauty’s last Insider study, management
buying a service, they are buying a feeling, and one really
across the GCC disclose that most new staff lacked
subtle way of delivering this great feeling is simply by
service skills when joining their business.
changing the terminology used in your spa or salon by staff.
These statistics are, perhaps, unsurprising in a nation where
Create a positive-only vocabulary and train staff to
our clients, and staff, consist of so many nationalities and
communicate it calmly. For example, consider: “I can put you
languages, resulting in challenges for businesses endeavoring
on a waiting list for availability this afternoon and book an
to deliver consistent service that will surpass expectations.
appointment for you tomorrow to ensure you’re not
So how do we tackle this? When training staff, “standard
disappointed” as opposed to the more abrupt, “we are fully
operating procedures” provide a great foundation to create
booked this afternoon, sorry”. Ensure that your customer
consistency in service, and are a good tool to use in training
sessions. Consistency is important to ensure that a good
general standard of service is given, especially when it comes
“CUSTOMERS ARE NOT JUST BUYING A
SERVICE THEY ARE BUYING A FEELING”
to treatments, but protocol can be soulless and doesn’t always
look after an individual’s needs.
service training involves lots of role-play. Split the team into
For every procedure you train staff in, make sure that there
two groups, a negative group and a positive group, and let
are examples of flexibility, alternatives or solutions to potential
them come up with displays of each. It will be fun,
requests, ensuring they receive enough information so that they
educational and thought provoking.
can always give the customer an appropriate response. To offer
Finally, one of the best ways of indirect training is leading
excellent customer service, staff should not only be able to follow
by example. There really is no better way for your team to
procedure, but should be able to read the customer’s needs.
learn than from the master. If you find yourself stuck in the
When it comes to training in customer service, many people
office, battling with budgets, stop for just a moment and
use words such as “intuition” or “emotional intelligence” but all
consider, when was the last time you actually played an
of this terminology is far too vague. We need something far
active role on the floor? Seeing you in action might just make
more tangible and useful to focus on.
the difference. PB
Focus, observe, listen
Sally’s top tips for good customer service:
To “read the needs” of the customer we must ensure that staff
• Create a positive language culture
can focus, observe and listen. Without focus, staff cannot
• Lead by example
succeed. If our bodies are present but our minds are absent, we
• Train staff to have a flexible approach
are destined to be average, and average is not acceptable in a
service industry. A simple example is opening a door for a
• Focus, observe and listen
customer. If a customer is moving towards a door, a focused
team member will observe that the customer is heading to the
door and open it for the customer before they have reached it.
Practical examples are very useful when training in customer
service. Take your team to another department or serviceorientated business and use observation techniques, get
the team to observe and critique. Food and Beverage outlets are
Sally Hewerdine is founder of
SpotlightOnSpa&Wellness,
which offers in-house, general and bespoke
customer service workshops.
For more information email:
info@spotlightonspa-wellness.com
perfect for this type of technique.
If you would like to acquire the tools for succesful service training please contact Sally, email: info@spotlightonspa-wellness.com
66 PBGCC APR14 Sallys column.indd 66
20/03/2014 11:41
META THERAPY
THE LATEST
INNOVATION
IN THE
BEAUTY INDUSTRY
• Skin rejuvenation
• Skin improvement
• Hydration
• Restoration
• Skin Pigment Equalizer
• Stem Cell Skin Reactivation
BEFORE
AFTER
business insight
68
money
MATTERS
Reviewing the profit and loss
statement may not be the most
inspiring part of a spa manager’s
role, but it is a crucial one.
Helen Merchant helps us get
to grips with finance
“In this region,
many spa managers
inherit overwhelming
properties or projects
without the necessary
business acumen to grow,
develop and maximise
profitability”
I
t is vital that spa managers understand finance for a
plethora of reasons. Many spa managers come
from a therapy background and therefore have little
experience of interpreting financial data. This
means they can overlook gaps or opportunities, fail
to manage costs, drive efficiency or maximise
profitability effectively. In essence, a lack of financial
know-how can mean spa managers fail to make the spa a
cost-efficient department.
I am currently delivering a “Finance for Spa Managers”
training course in Dubai. The course provides a foundation
for spa mangers, and assistant spa managers, providing a
greater understanding of all the financial elements needed
to manage and develop successful and profitable spa
operations. It aims to build confidence and the ability to
implement a business model that is easy to understand and
deliver. It’s about giving people the tools to grow and
breaking down barriers so that they are no longer afraid of
some of the jargon surrounding finance such as “revenue
management” and “strategic revenue development”.
In this region, many spa managers inherit overwhelming
properties or projects but may have not yet gained the
necessary business acumen to grow, develop and maximise
profitability.
68-70 PBGCC APR14 Business insight.indd 68
20/03/2014 11:41
HEALTHY AND GLAMOROUS HAIR USING NATURAL PRODUCTS
Leonor Greyl uses only the highest quality natural ingredients to create specific luxury
hair care products. Because hair beauty deserves a spa, Leonor Greyl also offers tailormade treatments. A unique philosophy that combines innovation, high performance and
sensory experience for exceptional results. Leonor Greyl, the ideal partner for your spa.
For Middle East enquiries, please contact +971 4 332 90 19 ext. 244 or email a.albu@creation-me.com
business insight
70
Creative types might find this difficult, but the finance
team deals in facts and figures. Explain your ideas in financial
terms and let the finance people help you forecast figures.
Don’t be afraid to ask for assistance or an explanation, they
are there to help. You wouldn’t expect a finance director to
be able to plan a treatment menu and they shouldn’t expect
you to be a financial wizard. Keep in mind that the finance
director needs you to be financially successful and to
manage a thriving department in order for the business to
succeed. You are part of a team.
In order to succeed and evolve from an excellent therapist
into a dynamic spa manager, you need to identify your
strengths and weaknesses then build an appropriate
personal development programme.
Support can be found from an external spa business
Consult the experts
expert, or mentor, with both spa operations and business
So how does a spa consultant fit into the picture? The right
development experience and through interaction with other
spa consultant can impact on efficiency by advising on
spa professionals. These collaborations could help you
costs, management, staffing, training, business planning
further your understanding of the challenges faced locally
and strategic development. It is, however, imperative that
and internationally.
you choose the most appropriate person for your business.
For a business to be successful there must be
Research the consultant’s area of speciality. For example,
departmental cohesion. It is essential that the
many consultants specialise in creative development
continued financial development of the spa
but you may already be creative but need help
manger is supported by the finance
with project management and strategy.
“In order to
department, making it specific to the
Ensure you find someone with the skillset
succeed and evolve
corporate needs of the business.
to meet your needs. Once you are clear
from an excellent
I have met many spa managers
on what you want to achieve from
therapist into a dynamic
who can be intimidated by the
employing a consultant, ask lots of
spa manager, you need to
thought of reporting to the financial
questions when meeting potential
identify your strengths and
department. These barriers must be
candidates and review their previous
weaknesses then build an
demolished.
projects. After you have selected
appropriate personal
Don’t be scared of your finance
someone, request a clear schedule of
development
director! They are very important
works and set deliverables.
programme”
people in any business, especially within
Follow these tips and you will soon make
our industry, whether independent or within
the transition from a creative, passionate
a larger hotel operation, but they are human like
therapist to a dynamic spa manager. PB
you and me. The finance team does not necessarily
understand the complexities of the spa operation; they
measure figures related to performance – so you can teach
them something. Educate the finance team on the spa and
how we generate revenue.
Merchant’s top finance tips for spa managers:
• Understand what occupancy is
• Understand and continually review operating costs
• Create a deliverable business plan
• Identify opportunities
• Formulate cost-effective upgrades
• Don’t be scared of your finance director
Helen Merchant is owner of International Spa Consultants, which advises clients in all aspects of spa business.
She is currently conducting the Finance for Spa Managers training course for the Product House in Dubai.
68-70 PBGCC APR14 Business insight.indd 70
20/03/2014 11:43
calendar
71
Diary dates
APRIL 8 -10
DUBAI DERMA
Dubai, UAE
The Dubai World Dermatology and Laser
Conference and Exhibition – Dubai Derma
– is held annually at the Dubai International
Convention and Exhibition Centre. It is
dedicated to practitioners, specialists,
manufacturers and distributors in the field of
dermatology, skincare and laser. It
showcases the best practices in
dermatology science and the latest
technology in skincare through an
exhibition, lectures, courses and workshops.
www.dubaiderma.com
APRIL 13-14
NATURAL AND ORGANIC PRODUCTS
EUROPE
Olympia, London, UK
A trade exhibition focusing on natural and
organic beauty and spa products. Boost your
sales, build brand awareness and make sure
your products are seen by the people who
can really make a difference to your business.
www.naturalproducts.co.uk
71 PBGCCAPR14 Calendar.indd 71
MAY 7-10
SPATEC EUROPE
Rhodes, Greece
Held at the Sheraton Rhodes Resort, the
event will bring together European spa
operators from leading medium-to-large
hotel resort, destination, athletic, medical
and day spas to meet with key leading
domestic and international suppliers.
Visitors will participate in a series of
one-on-one meetings over two
dedicated business days.
www.spateceu.com/europe
JUNE 12-14
BEAUTY EURASIA
Turkey
Eurasia’s largest beauty and cosmetics
fair hosts exhibitors from all around the
world. Visitors can view the latest in hair
products, perfumery and fragrance,
personal care products, cosmetics,
dermocosmetic, spa and wellness, nail
care, private labeling, packaging and
machinery.
www.beautyeurasia.com
Don’t Miss...
MAY 27-29
BEAUTY WORLD MIDDLE EAST
Dubai, UAE
Now in its 18th year, Beauty World Middle
East is currently the largest international
trade fair for beauty products, hair,
fragrances and wellbeing in the region.
Attracting global exhibitors, the show offers
trade visitors the opportunity to meet more
than 1000 companies, face-to-face, over
three days . The Spa and Salon Management
Summit will be held on May 28, 29. This year
speakers will share their insights and
thoughts on opening, operating and
managing a profitable business in a growing
and changing industry.
www.beautyworldme.com
SEND US YOUR DATES
Send us details of any events
you are planning via email to
Ú news@professionalbeauty.ae
20/03/2014 11:50
classifed
72
Call us on +971 56 352 2906 or email info@professionalbeauty.ae
salon supplies
training
The Product House
Register Now
Massage & Facial Courses 2014
Beginners/Intermediate/Advanced
CIBTAC endorsed
500 hours with course work
When: 22nd July to 12th August
For registration & info contact: Meara Laine Dougherty
Operations Manager | training6@theproducthouse.biz
FOR DETAILS CALL +971 50 652 9610
OR EMAIL info@st-tropezdubai.com
www.theproducthouse.biz
Tel: +971 4 379 1966
Planters Alley, Warehouse 12,
Street 4a, District 364, Al Manara
Junction, Al Quoz, Dubai, UAE
dental services
training
The Product House
Register Now
Finance Course
for Spa Managers 2014
When: 11th & 12th July | 8:30 AM to 4:00 PM
Corporate bookings upon request
For registration & info contact: Sally Bull
Marketing Manager | training@theproducthouse.biz
www.theproducthouse.biz
Tel: +971 4 379 1966
Planters Alley, Warehouse 12,
Street 4a, District 364, Al Manara
Junction, Al Quoz, Dubai, UAE
*72 Classified April.indd 108
18/3/14 16:19:56
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