Strib FromCrustUp 101205
Transcription
Strib FromCrustUp 101205
Strib FromCrustUp 101205 6/28/06 2:52 PM Page 1 W E D N E S D AY, O C T O B E R 1 2 , 2 0 0 5 • S T A R T R I B U N E • W E S T • W 7 arts+leisure DINING WEST PUNCH PIZZA From the crust up, this is what pizza should be Punch Pizza in Eden Prairie uses the prized Neapolitan formula to make fresh and delicious pies that put others to shame. By KAREN COOPER and BRUCE SCHNEIER Special to the Star Tribune If we could ask one thing of you, it would be this: Stop eating bad pizza. Give up on dreadful bready crusts, pale red sauces and cheap cheese. Treat yourselves. Go with the good stuff. The real deal must feature a hand-kneaded crust, no more than 14 inches across, and come out of a wood-fired pizza oven. Every detail about it, from the type of flour used to make the crust to the choice of toppings, is important. Good pizza is so well-prized in Italy that they’ve passed laws describing what a true Neapolitan pizza must be. And rightly so; protecting their brand and image is important. Happily, every detail is as authentic as possible at Punch Pizza. They’re one of the few pizzerias outside of Naples, Italy, to be a member of the Vera Pizza Napoletana, an organization that regulates Neapolitan pizza. And it shows. This is not deep-dish Chicago pizza, nor New York flat pizza, but an artisanal, handmade example of culinary perfection. Capsule review: The pizza is nothing short of spectacular. Order anything that you think sounds good. We’ve never had a bad experience here. Punch offers a variety of predesigned Neapolitan options, or you can create your favorite from their list of ingredients. The ingredients are fresh and the dough is delicious, so it’s hard to go wrong. We can recommend the salame e funghi, which comes with pepperoni, mushrooms, garlic, fontina cheese and oregano. We also liked the borgata, with sun-dried tomatoes, goat cheese, eggplant, olives and basil. The classic margherita is also delicious, though we like enough basil leaves so there is at least one on every slice. We also like it with the addition of artichokes and sundried tomatoes. For a true Neapolitan experience, order your pizza wet, with extra tomatoes and olive oil, and with buffalo mozzarella. The restaurant flies the buffalo mozzarella in from Italy every week, and despite our general unfamiliarity with the water buffalo, we found that the cheese has a mild flavor and has the perfect texture for pizza. Photos by JENNIFER SIMONSON • jsimonoson@startribune.com Mauricio Gonzalez, left, and Ruben Rodriguez assembled pizzas during the lunch rush at Punch Pizza’s Eden Prairie location. Even when the restaurant is busy, orders come up fast because they spend only 90 seconds in the 800-degree wood-fired oven. Customers place an order at the counter, then sit down to wait. The Punch salad has mixed greens, pine nuts, Parmesan and prosciutto topped with a balsamic vinaigrette. It’s one of four salads on the menu. But if there’s a particular pizza you remember, they’re happy to make you a special order. They’ll even make a calzone for you if you ask. Punch’s borgata pizza is topped with sun-dried tomatoes, goat cheese, eggplant, olives and basil. If you like basil, another winner is the margherita pizza. The restaurant offers a selection of specialty pies, or customers can create their own from the list of ingredients. There aren’t as many predesigned choices as at Punch’s St. Paul location, but they’ll do special orders. Punch serves four different salads, either as a side dish or a complete meal. They are all tasty and can be a good meal (the focaccia served alongside is amazing), but we stick with the pizza. There’s one appetizer: artichoke dip. This is basically the same version you find in restaurants everywhere: arti- chokes and cheese baked in a ramekin. And there’s one dessert: tiramisu mousse. If you want, you can even order a glass of beer or wine with your pizza. Punch is geared to the office lunch crowd. You place your order at the counter and then sit down and wait for your pizza. The pizzas cook for 90 seconds in the 800-degree wood oven, so orders come quickly even when the restaurant is crowded. If you’ve been to the Punch in St. Paul, which is a sit-down restaurant, be prepared for some other differences as well. The menu is smaller, with fewer pizza options and without the selection of antipasti. Bruce Schneier and Karen Cooper are always looking for good places to eat. If you have a favorite in the area, write us at stwest@startribune.com. PUNCH Where: Prairie Center Drive, Eden Prairie Phone: 952-943-9557 Hours: Sun-Thu: 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fri-Sat: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Atmosphere: Lunch-rush lively Service: Fast and friendly Sound level: Can be noisy Recommended dishes: Pizza with your favorite toppings Prices: $9 large individual pizzas Children: Bambini pizza available