9 Steps to Building the Ultimate HVAC System

Transcription

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THE ULTIMATE
HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE
TO DESIGNING AN HVAC SYSTEM
9 Steps to building the
Ultimate HVAC system.
How to get everything you want and
need in the budget you can afford!
Don Johnson
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Copyright © 2012 by Don Johnson. All rights reserved.
Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the author has used his best efforts in preparing this
book, he makes no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of
the contents of this book and specifically disclaims any implied warranties of merchantability or
fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales representatives or
written sales materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your
situation. You should consult with a professional where appropriate. The author shall not be liable for
any loss of profit or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental,
consequential, or other damages.
For general information about our products or services, please visit our website at
www.FreedomHvacAL.com
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The Ultimate Home Owner’s Guide to Designing an HVAC System
©2013 Don Johnson
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Table of Contents
Chapter 1. Design
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The Importance of Proper Design of a Heating and Cooling System
Chapter 2. Size
8
Why Heat Load Calculations Will Make You Question Everything You Have Heard
From Your HVAC Guy
Chapter 3. Basic equipment style
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Heating and Air Conditioning Once Saved the World: Part 1
Which is the Best Air Conditioner Brand?
Package Unit vs. Split System
Air Conditioner vs. Heat Pump
How a Variable Speed Fan is Making the World a Better Place
Chapter 4. Return air and Duct Design
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HVAC Performance Depends on Good Ductwork
The Problem with Leaky Ducts
Do I Need a Duct Cleaning?
Chapter 5. Equipment feature and selection
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An Expert Interview About SEER
What is a Ton of Air Conditioning?
Single Stage vs. Two Stage Compressors
Furnace Heat Chambers: Aluminized Steel vs. Stainless Steel
Why is New Copper for Refrigerant Lines Important?
Chapter 6. Enhancements and controls
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Do I Need a New Digital Thermostat?
I Have Elderly Parents Who Have A Difficult to Operate Thermostat.
Can You Recommend An Easy to Use Solution?
Will a Nest Thermostat Work with my AC System?
Does It Matter How You Achieve Efficiency? Or that you get a lower power bill!
How Much Insulation Do I Need in My Home?
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Spray Foam Insulated Attics
My evaporator coil is leaking, why? or Why do I have a leaking evaporator coil?
How to Prevent Evaporator Coil Leaks?
Chapter 7. Allergy protection
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Several Insane (but true) Things About Humidity
MERV, Not Another Funny Texting Letters
How Can I Know If I Have Mold and Mildew in My Ventilation System?
Air Duct Cleaning Service or a Better Air Filter, Which is the Best Investment?
Clean Indoor Air; A Simple Guide to Indoor Air Quality
5 Ways To Deal With Crawl Space Air
Chapter 8. Warranty and price
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Why No One Talks About Their Home Warranty Anymore
The insiders secrets to All the credits and rebates available in Birmingham, AL
Costco members earn CASH from HVAC Installation
How Much Does an Air Conditioner Cost?
What's the Price of a Heating and Cooling System?
Can I Get A Lower Price?
Can I Just “3 Bids” in the HVAC Industry!
Chapter 9. Maintenance after installation
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Heating Season Tune-ups Save Money, And Maybe Your Life
What is the Freedom Comfort Club?
Bonus: Water Heater and Home Enhancements
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Tankless vs Tank Water Heater
Electric Water Heater vs Gas Water Heater
How Hot to Set Your Water Heater?
Whole House Generators Can Keep You Out of Trouble
Ductless AC in Every Home Means Comfort and Savings
Protect Yourself and Your Electronics From Lightning Strikes
Conclusion
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Introduction: What this ebook can do for YOU...
Quick Background
As you may know, I am the president and owner of Freedom Heating and Cooling in Birmingham,
Alabama.
Why This eBook is Different
I wanted to put together a collection of information that gives all the years of experience and
learning into a comprehensive guide. This is not a sales book or letter. It is just the information
and process we use every day.
How to Read this Book
This book consists of blog post I have written. They are organized by chapter and topic and flow
in an order of how we approach every project. Not all items will fit your situation and not all items
will be relevant.
We are here to help
We have a staff of dedicated and educated people that can help with any aspect of your HVAC
project. Good luck to you in this process and may the teachings of this book help you and your
family experience great comfort, energy savings and allergy protection for years to come.
Are You Going to Try to Sell Me Something I Don't Need?
Is that question running through your mind? It's because an unethical salesman came to your
home and pressured you to buy either steak knives or a vacuum cleaner. He would not leave until
your bought something. We are not high pressure salesmen. We believe that you have control
over your home's HVAC system decisions.
Our responsibility is to inform you of your choices and educate you. We typically will present from
three to five choices for any repair, enhancement or replacement you may need.
Who Has the Power in Sales?
Most people dread when faced with the situation that they must replace their AC system. They
start asking for bids, estimates and quotes. I think the name Upgrade Choice Presentation is what
most people really want.
Who has the power to make decisions in a sales call? Of course the customer does. The simplest
way to show respect to the customer is to present appropriate choices and allow them to make a
decision. High-pressure sales tactics use a lot of yes or no questions and try to "box" the
customer into the sale. Ethical sales, in any industry, is about giving the customer appropriate
choices that are relevant to his needs and wants. The choice to upgrade, the choice to repair, or
the choice of an ultimate package is the customer's decision.
High-pressure sales tactics use a lot of yes or no questions and try to "box" the customer into the
sale. Ethical sales, in any industry, is about giving the customer appropriate choices that are
relevant to his needs and wants. The choice to upgrade, the choice to repair, or the choice of an
ultimate package is the customer's decision.
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The Pope just said "who am I to judge". If he does not have the authority to make decisions for
the Catholic world, then how can a salesman have the right to pressure customers? The customer
is in control when it comes to their pocket book. Think about this personally; if a person enters
your home to sell something, they should present at least 3 choices to you or they not respecting
your right to make a choice.
What do you think? Who do you want in your home, a high pressure closer or an ethical choice
provider?
Before making any decisions about your HVAC system consider all of the following areas to
building the ultimate heating and cooling ducted system. All these items may not be needed for
every person but having a choice is what empowers your decision making
HVAC: What Does it Stand For?
HVAC is seen in the air conditioning industry for both residential and commercial contractors. It
stands for Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning.
Heating: This is all forms of heating such as furnaces
and heat pumps.
Ventilation: This means more than it seems. It is the
duct work, the filters, the air purifiers and the exhaust
fans in kitchens and bathroom. It also includes air duct
cleaning services (duct cleaning). Air Duct cleaning
service is the process of vacuuming out the internal
area of your duct system.
Air Conditioning: This is the heart of the industry. Newer designed systems such as ductless air
conditioning or ductless mini splits are also included in the HVAC industry.
This is a very simplified explanation but I think you get the point.
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CHAPTER 1: DESIGN
The Importance of Proper Design of a Heating and Cooling System
Many clients often ask us tell them what they need for their heating and cooling system. That is a
very involved question. It can depend on your family, the property arrangement, and how a home
owner will use a property. Getting a proper design of a heating and cooling system before you
start buying and installing HVAC equipment will lead to a much better system and a happy
homeowner.
We recently took over a job where the previous contractor didn't do any planning. He installed the
equipment with the service panel against a wall. This will lead to many headaches in the future
when a simple adjustment is needed. The unit would have to be removed, fixed and then
reinstalled just for a simple change in the blower speed. Planning and design are a critical part of
a successful and happy client. Many HVAC service technician just jump into work and may not be
thinking the full project through. We came in to finish a job the previous contractor started but did
not have the expertise to correct all the problems he created.
We use a simple survey form to get clients thinking about the full project and it even helps them
realize that a comfort system can do more than provide warm or cool air. Heat, cool, comfort,
efficiency, price, allergy control, are any of these important? A proper system can clean the air,
purify the air of living organisms, control humidity, provide fresh air from outside the home. A
comfort system can balance airflow to all rooms and can save on utility costs. But all of these
items can seem over whelming. A design plan and survey keeps it all organized.
After completing a survey, the process is to prioritize the items in order of importance. This will
greatly reduce the reengineering that sometimes occurs when work is started then it is planned.
Call us at 205-444-4444 when you are ready to plan your project!
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CHAPTER 2: SIZE
Why Heat Load Calculations Will Make You Question Everything You
Have Heard From Your HVAC Guy
You may be asking "What is a Heat Load Calculation?" A heat load calculation , also called the
manual j calculation, is the starting point for providing the proper size unit for a house. The
calculation and factors are different for the different areas of the country. A home in Birmingham
Alabama will need more AC and less heat than a home in Minneapolis, Minnesota. The manual j
design takes areas into account and offers different factors and heating and cooling days into the
calculation. In fact, in Alabama, homes are designed for 95 degree temperatures in the summer.
Manual j Calculations make assumptions of 2 people per bedroom in a home, this is not always
true. Kitchens produce heat, the calculations have an average kitchen load in it. If you cook a lot,
have a double oven, or you are running a small bakery, this will greatly add to the heat load in a
home.
Some technicians base the size of the AC on the square footage of the home. This is a large
factor but not the only factor. Most people think, my neighbor down the street has the same home,
isn't that the right size? But the orientation of a home is very critical. If the majority of windows,
front and back, are facing east and west, you will receive more sun into your home and that will
increase heat load and the cooling needed. Other important factors are windows type, exterior
door type, and insulation.
You may be thinking, I've had a 3 ton for years and it has always done fine, why shouldn't I skip
this step? We here this same comment all the time. A size unit is its nominal size. The nominal
size is the ability cool the air in a home while the latent size is the ability to cool or control the
temperature of the items inside a home. Latent heat is the hidden heat. It's the heat inside the
furniture, carpet, drapes, etc inside the home. An air conditioner must cool the air but it must also
cool the items inside the home as well. Many newer units with the same nominal size do not
produce the same amount of latent cooling capacity.
Here is a copy of the form we use in Birmingham, Alabama.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/57912774/Consumer%20Guides/Client%20List%20-%20Heat%20Load%20Analysis.pdf
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BASIC
CHAPTER 3: BASIC EQUIPMENT
STYLE
EQUIPMENT
STYLE
You may be beating summer's heat by reading this in a cool, comfortable place with your air
conditioner running. Air conditioning is as familiar to our modern world as freeways, jet air travel and
gourmet coffee. Yet most senior citizens grew up in a world in which air conditioning was a luxury
rather than a part of everyday life. Most people could enjoy it only in commercial buildings and the
wealthiest homes.
The invention of modern air conditioning traces back to 1902, when a Brooklyn, NY, printing firm found
that distortion in the paper caused by excess heat and humidity made it hard to align color images. A
clever young engineer named Willis Carrier designed a way to control temperature and humidity for
the printing firm. In 1906, Carrier patented that initial device, called "An Apparatus for Treating Air."
In 1924, air conditioning expanded into a human comfort mode. The first comfort cooling system was
installed at Detroit's popular J.L. Hudson Department Store, where many people fainted from the heat
at the store's crowded bargain basement sales. The 1920s also saw movie theaters adopt air
conditioning in a competitive race for customers. During the Great Depression of the 1930s, watching
a movie in air conditioned comfort was one of the few affordable pleasures available to many
Americans. Even into the 1950s, the front of many movie theaters had a familiar blue sign showing a
block of ice and advertising, "It’s cool inside!"
The Great Depression and then World War II retarded the growth of air conditioning for the masses.
Residential air conditioning didn't begin to take off until the 1950's building boom in suburban America.
In 1955, about 430,000 homes in the United States had central air conditioning. Ten years later the
number had grown to an astounding 3 million homes. By 1985, 70% of all new homes had central air
conditioning - about 90% in the South. Today about 80% of U.S. homes have central air conditioning;
those without it tend to be in relatively cool northern
climates.
Many historians credit the growth of air conditioning as
a key factor in the dramatic rise of the southern Sun
Belt in population and economic growth during the
post-World War II era. Before air conditioning became
widespread, few businesses wanted to locate in the
South, where stifling, sultry summers took a toll on
workers and machinery alike. Air conditioning has
turned the South's warm climate from a handicap into
an asset.
And it has made summertime even more of a treat to residents of the North, who are less acclimated
to high temperature and humidity than their southern counterparts. Air conditioning truly ranks as one
of the most important inventions of modern times for the average citizen. It is a mark of success how
much we have come to take it for granted.
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There are so many names in the Heating and Air Conditioning Industry. This is simply a post (Heating,
Air Conditioning Brands) to understand how the names are very connected with a brief history.
Carrier
Owner or Parent Company:
Willis Haviland Carrier is the owner and part of the UTC Climate, Controls & Security Parent
Company
Address:
P.O. 4808 Carrier Parkway
Syracuse, N.Y. 06034-4015
Brand:
Carrier, Tradiran, Bryant, International Comfort Products, Linde Refrigeration, Payne, Transicold,
Heat Transfer Products Group, Arco aire, Comfortmaker, Heil, Tempstar and Totaline.
History:
In 1920 while staring through mist Willis Carrier realized he could dry air passing it through water
to create fog, and in doing so he could control the amount of moisture in it. Within a year he has
invented a way to control humidity, and is now credited what is known for the modern air
conditioner. In 1915 he along with six other engineers pooled together in to form the Carrier
Engineering Corporation. They purchased their first plant in Newark, New Jersey in 1920. In 1950
he began marketing its air conditions to the residential market.
Manufactured:
Carrier has access to 67 manufacturing facilities worldwide
Distributed:
Willis Carrier developed a network of international dealers, distributors and customers worldwide.
Goodman
Daiken via Goodman Global Group Inc.
Address:
7401 Security Way
Houston, TX 77040
Brand:
Goodman, Amana and (Janitrol- no longer used)
History:
In 1954 the founder of Goodman Manufacturing Company, L.P. Harold V.
Goodman became an air conditioning contractor in Houston Texas. As the city
grew, so did his business. He was one of the most successful HVAC
contractors in the United States by the late 1960’s.
Harold entered HVAC manufacturing with Goodman Manufacturing Company, L.P. in 1975. They
began machining flexible air duct and plastic blade registers. As his business was growing he decided
to build HVAC equipment recognizing the need for high quality, low-cost central air conditioning
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Heating and Air Conditioning Once Saved the World: Part 2 Cont.
systems. As another HVAC manufacturer closed he quickly stepped in and purchased the company’s
machinery and entered the market as a manufacturer of central air conditioners and heat pumps in
1982.
Manufactured:
Goodman Global engineers, manufactures, assembles, markets and distributes their line of products.
Distributed by:
Goodman Global Group products are sold through a North American distribution network with nearly
1000 total distribution points including both company-operated and independent distributors.
Lennox
David Windsor Norris of Lennox Furnace Company
Address:
2100 Lake Park Blvd.
Richardson, TX 75080
P.O. Box 799900
Dallas, TX 75379-9900
Brands:
Lennox, Armstrong, Ducane, and Aire-Flo
History:
In 1895 Ernest Bryant and Ezra Smith from Iowa shared their plans with David Lennox for a
furnace of riveted steal surface that heated homes. They were made entirely of cast iron which
would crack and warp after extended use, and caused smoke and coal gasses to spread through
homes. Because Lennox grew up worked with Iron in a Steel Company and owned his own
blacksmith and machine shop, Bryant and Smith entered an agreement with him in which Lennox
made the iron castings used for their steel furnaces. Bryant and Smith lost their financial backing
so Lennox took over their patents and reworked their original design.
In 1904 Lennox sold his furnace business to a group of business men led by David Windsor
Norris. Norris operated the company under the name of Lennox Furnace Company and was
renamed Lennox Industries in the early 1950’s. Lenox Industries became Lennox International
Inc. in 1984 and 95 years after being owned privately by the Norris family it was made public in
1999 and is currently traded on the New York Stock Exchange.
After the sale of his furnace business, Dave Lennox continued to manage the Lennox Machine
Company in Marshalltown until he sold it in 1912, but continued to work in a small machine shop
behind his home for the remainder of his retirement.
Manufactured:
Richardson, TX;, Carrollton, TX; Des Moines, IA; Marshalltown, IA; Stuttgart, AR; and Orange,
CA;
Distributed by:
Lennox has over 6,000 dealers in North America
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Nordyne
CEO and President is Dave LaGrand
Address:
8000 Phoenix Parkway
O’Fallon, MO 63368
Brands:
Broan, Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Light Commercial, Maytag, NuTone, Philco, Tappan,
Westinghouse, Intertherm (no longer used), Mammoth and Miller
History:
In 1919 Nordyne was founded as International Oil Heating Co in St. Louis and was later
purchased by Sidney Heiman and Truman Brown in 1926.
International Oil Heating Company was one of the first companies to use radio for advertising and
developed the first heater and air conditioners and became known for developing products for
their use in trailers and mobile homes
Manufactured:
Boonville, Missouri; Dyersburg, Tennessee; Poplar Bluff, Missouri, and Tipton, Missouri
Distributed by:
Boonville, Missouri; Poplar Bluff, Missouri, Monterrey, and Nuevo Leon, Mexico
Rheem
Address:
1100 Abernathy Road
Suite 1400
Atlanta, GA 30328
Brands:
Rheem, Ruud and Weatherking
History:
In 1927 Rheem was established by Richard and Donald Rheem when they acquired a galvanizing
plant. Rheem began manufacturing water heaters in the 1930’s and by 1936 they had coast to
coast distribution. In the 1940’s and 1950’s the company began producing space heating units for
homes, oil furnaces and air conditioners. In 1959 Rheem acquired Rudd
Manufacturing Company and then expanded with the rapid growth of the central air conditioning
industry. In 1985, the company purchased Raypak, a leading producer of copper tube
boilers. Today Rheem is a leading producer of water heaters, central warm air furnaces and air
conditioners, swimming pool heaters and commercial boilers for both residential and commercial.
Manufactured:
Mobile, Alabama; Fort Smith, Arkansas; Oxnard, California; and Eagan Minnesota.
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Distributed by:
Distribution centers include Randleman, NC; and throughout the US and Bampton, Ontairo,
Canada. Rheem also has an international presence in Countires such as Australia, Canada,
Mexico, Brazil and Singapore.
Sears
Sears is officially named Sears, Roebuck and Co and was founded by Richard Warren Sears and
Alvah Curtis Roebuck in the late 19th century. In 2005 Dow Jones Industrial Average, Kmart
bought out sears creating the Sears Holdings Corportation.
Address:
Sears National Customer Relations
3333 Beverly Road
Hoffman Estates, Illinois 60179
Brands:
Whirlpool, Kenmore
History:
In 1893 Sears, Roebuck and Co. was officially formed although it’s history date back to 1886
when Richard W. Sears of Minnesota sold gold watches to other agents. After Hercules steam
heating systems began replacing iron stoves and fireplaces with central heating sources in 1908,
Sears launched its Kenmore brand, but it wasn’t offered to consumers until 1977. However,
Coldspot air conditioners were offered to the public in 1928.
Manufactured:
Sears Manufacturing Co: Davenport, IA 52802
Distributed by:
Sears Distribution Center: Pearl city, HI 96782
Trane
Ingersoll Rand and is the successor company to the American Standard Companies.
Address:
Trane Residential Customer Relations
P.O. Box 9010
Tyler, TX 75711-9010
Brands:
American Standard, Trane
History:
In 1885 the founder James Trane, a Norwegian immigrant opened a plumbing shop in La Crosse,
WI. Inspired by the cold winters, he invented a Low-pressure heating system called Trane Vapor
Heating System. In 1913 James and his son Reuben that had just received a degree in
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mechanical engineering incorporated The Trane Company. The company’s reputation was firmly
established in 1923 with Reuben’s invention of the convector radiator which replaced the cast iron
radiators.
Trane became pioneer in 1931 when they used technology to relieve people from the summer
heat by developing the first air conditioning unit.
In 1938 the launch of Turbovac, the centrifugal refrigeration machine was the beginning of
innovations that lead to Trane’s Current CenTraVac the standard for large commercial air
conditioning systems.
With the acquisition of Sentinel Electronics in the late 1970’s residential air conditioning began in
1982.
Manufactured:
Trane has 104 manufacturing locations in 28 countries. Residential products are manufactured in
Arkansas, Mexico, New Jersey, Texas and Georgia.
Distributed by:
Top Distributors are: Dallas, Tx; Tacoma, Wash.; Phoenix, AZ; New Haven, Conn.
York
Johnson Controls Inc.
Address:
Johnson Controls Unitary Products
5005 York Drive
Norman, OK 73069
Or
York International Corp.
P.O. Box 1592
York, PA 17405-1592
Brands:
Frasier Johnston, Coleman, Luxaire, York
History:
In 1874 York was founded in York PA where ice machines were being made as an alternative to
shipping ice from the Great Lakes to the Company. They soon extended their refrigeration expertise
to other areas such as Montgomery, Alabama. They installed the Empire Theatre with a comfort
system called “air washing” which in time became air conditioning in 1914. The world’s first air
conditioned office building in California was in 1924 where York equipment was used. The publicly
traded company was purchased by Johnson Controls in 2005.
Manufactured:
Norman, Oklahoma
Distributed by:
Locally by M&A Supply Company
Thank you for reading this long post of Heating, Air Conditioning Brands.
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Which is the Best Air Conditioner Brand?
One of the most common questions asked is: "Which is the best air conditioner brand?"
While others have their personal favorites or would simply try to sell the most expensive units, my
answer is probably one of the most honest: "depends on what you need it for and who you ask."
For every brand out there, any technical product or service, there is a list of people who are willing
to swear by it and probably a longer list of people who will curse it till the day they die.
Air conditioning systems are no different… It often comes down to customer service when dealing
with issues since most companies are using the exact same air conditioner brand.
Package Unit vs. Split System
Heating and air is not a purchased as a system like a car. Heating and air conditioning is an on
site assembled system. If car manufacturers simply made all the parts, put them in a box, and
ship them to the local dealer to install, the quality control of workmanship would not be available.
This is the problem we have in the HVAC industry. Let's look at a comparison of package unit vs.
split system HVAC.
Package Unit
Advantage: The complete heating and cooling unit is assembled in a factory in a controlled
environment. The charge of the refrigerant and the balance of motors are all installed in a
controlled environment. This can ensure that the unit when installed will operate at its most
efficient state. Only a duct system would have to be installed on site.
Disadvantage: All of the electronics controls and electrical motors are located outside in a harsh
environment. If rain or snow gets into the unit it can cause many problems. The unit is also
exposed to greater access by animals. Animals will find the warmest spot in the winter and that is
inside the unit. The may chew on wires and destroy the insulation. Many package units will rust
sooner that split systems due to the exposure to the elements. We find packages unit do not last
as long as split systems in Birmingham, Alabama.
Split System
Advantage: Components can be inside an attic or basement especially the electronic control
pieces that are very sensitive to water. Split systems come in more configuration such as up flow,
down flow or horizontal to easy the application needed. This allow greater customization of a
project to achieve better results. Split systems are higher in efficiency than package units. Some
split systems can be as high as 25 SEER while a package unit is from 13 -15 SEER typically.
Disadvantage: The installation is critical to system performance. We often say the most important
day in the life of a system is the day it is installed. Poor installation will greatly reduce efficiency
and the life of an AC. It is dependent on the installation technicians to arrange the components
correctly. Match components based on the manufacturers design and then to properly adjust
refrigerant levels to perform properly. Most split outdoor units come overcharged to account for a
refrigerant lineset of 15 feet. If the distance between the indoor unit and outdoor unit is more or
less the installation technician will have to adjust the charge.
Which is best? You now can decide!
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Air Conditioner vs. Heat Pump
There is often times that a furnace and air conditioner could be replaced with a heat pump. Would
you want to? What are the advantages of a heat pump over a furnace and air conditioner? Let's
examine the pros and cons of each.
Furnace and Air Conditioner
Pros

Heat comes from natural gas, the good heat.

The air that comes from a furnace is usually 125 degrees.

You can get a blast of very hot air when you stand on top of a vent.

Furnace and air conditioner is usually cheaper than a heat pump.

Less parts and less repair issues
Cons

Heating costs are higher with a furnace and air conditioner

Heating costs are subject to change as the price of natural gas changes
Heat Pump
Pros

The cheapest way to heat a home.

Works best to maintain a constant temperature in a home
Cons

Heating is slower than with a furnace and air conditioner

Slow recover time for a home that is allowed to get very cold

Strip heats are very expensive to operate in very cold weather
So, what is a hybrid heat system? A hybrid Heat (or dual fuel) systems takes the advantages of
the furnace and the heat pump and combines them. Wow, isn't that great? The advantage of each
with very few of the drawbacks. Consider a hybrid heat the next time you need to replace your air
conditioner. The comfort is great and the utility savings could pay for the upgrade.
How a Variable Speed Fan is Making the World a Better Place
A variable speed fan motor was originally, and still is, designed to eliminate the discomforts
caused by ridiculous on/off part-time heating and air conditioning. We use it for the comfort it
provides. The fact that it saves energy is a welcome bonus.
I don't make big fuel savings claims for several reasons. Lets say you have a 10 room home and
two of those rooms are bone-chilling cold in the winter or hot and muggy in the summer. You have
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a variable speed fan motor installed and those rooms get warm in the winter and cool in the
summer. You look at your energy bill and maybe you saved a couple of dollars. Or maybe you
saved a lot. Maybe it cost you a couple of dollars more. The important point is that you don't have
to retreat from very expensive real estate because your heating/air conditioning system is uneven
and can't keep up.
A variable speed fan motor, when running at half-speed, (which it does most of the time) will use
about one eighth the electricity that it takes to run the same motor at full speed. In other words
you can run the variable speed fan motor eight hours for the same amount of money that you can
run the same motor for one hour at full speed.
If your focus is strictly on energy savings, then turn the system off and freeze in the winter and
roast in the summer. Or buy a tent. You'll save scads of money. Don't buy the Variable speed fan
motor for energy savings alone. Buy it for comfort and healthy indoor environmental quality.
Residential air conditioning is a complex subject with definite and consistent rules. There are two
components that must be removed from the air. These are heat and moisture. They are of equal
importance. One of the air conditioning rules is:

The faster you run the blower, the more heat and less moisture you remove from the air.

The slower you run the blower, the more moisture and less heat you remove from the air.
With a fixed-speed on/off, part-time blower, there is a definite limit to how slow you can run the
blower. A variable speed fan gives you the best these two choices by covering them both.
When the air conditioner compressor first comes on, a variable speed fan is running at a slow
speed. That catches the latent (humidity) load and really pulls moisture from the air. At the same
time, the cold air conditioning coil reduces the temperature of the air going over it. This
immediately increases the blowers speed and sends the cool/dry air into your home. The speed of
the blower stops increasing somewhere before it reaches full-speed. This is where it has found a
balance between the humidity load and the heat load. A variable speed fan doesn't let go of the
humidity load until it is down the drain and out of your home. Another interesting thing happens in
Alabama, when homeowners install their first variable speed fan, they get worried because the
blower seems to be running too slow. The reason for this is that a variable speed fan has found
that the air is full of moisture and is busy helping the air conditioning system to remove it. When
indoor relative humidity runs in the 75% range, there is a lot of moisture for a variable speed fan
to work on. When the homeowner checks back the next day, the temperature of the air coming
from the registers is cooler and moving faster and the indoor relative humidity is in the low 50%
range.
It is disturbing to see the direction that the air conditioning industry is taking. Utility companies will
kick-back a couple hundred dollars to the manufacturers if they can save a little electricity. So,
what is happening? The pressure is on the equipment manufacturers to speed up their blowers.
Remember, the faster the blower speed the more heat and less humidity is removed from the air.
(some water is always removed) The thermostat reacts to temperature. Remove the heat and the
temperatures drop. The thermostat shuts off the air conditioner and blower before enough
moisture is collected. So you save electricity. This is false savings because the homeowner has to
set the thermostat to a lower temperature setting in the attempt to get rid of that hot muggy
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feeling. Because the thermostat is set lower, the air conditioner runs longer. Thus more electricity
is used. The resulting lower temperature, combined with not enough humidity being removed,
causes the home to feel cool and clammy. That moldy sock smell shows up as well.
The result is that speeding up the blower to ridiculous levels has produced what we consider is
an uncomfortable situation. This might work in a laboratory setting, where nobody has to live all
day. We don't think it works in the real world. Also, the high-speed blower strips moisture from the
air conditioning coil and blows it down the ductwork. (mold?)
Here are facts that have not been taken into consideration. The slower the air moves across an
air conditioning coil, the colder that coil is and the more moisture it collects. The faster that air
moves across the coil the warmer it becomes and the less moisture it collects. The colder the
coil's surface is, the better water will stick to it. The warmer the coil is, the less water will stick to it.
Combine high air speed with a warm coil and you have water shooting down the ductwork. A
variable speed fan solves most of this problem by limiting the air flow until the moisture is
removed from the air.
During heating season a variable speed fan tames that high speed off/on blower. You only get the
amount of air coming from your registers that you need. Air is always circulating. Always at a
comfortable speed for the temperature being delivered. Your electronic air cleaner, filters,
humidifier, UV germicidal lamps, and any other added equipment is always working at peak
efficiency. Temperatures throughout your home become balanced. Drafts down stairways are
eliminated. That cold draft when the blower first comes on is gone forever.
Everything attached to your heating/air conditioning system relies on the blower being on. Once
the blower shuts off, so do your filters, electronic air cleaner, humidifier, ultraviolet (germicidal)
lights and anything else connected to the system. When the blower comes banging back on, it
kicks up dust, mold spores and anything else lurking in your ductwork. When this material gets
back into the high speed air stream, it might end up in the best filter of them all, YOUR LUNGS!!
Mold cannot live without moisture. Many off and on fans blow hard enough to spray moisture from
the air conditioning coil and down the ducts where it supplies the moisture needed to grow mold.
When a variable speed fan is operating, the average blower speed is much slower. This allows
more time for UV lights to kill mold spores. Your filters or electronic air cleaner and UV lights
operate about three times more efficiently. And, a super important point is that during air
conditioning, much more moisture is removed from your home and it is much less likely to be
blown off the A/C coil and into the ductwork where it can provide a great environment for mold.
These are the fan laws.
DEFINITIONS: S = Speed = RPM = Revolutions Per Minute. CFM = Cubic Feet Per Minute. W =
Watts = Electrical unit of power. HP = Horsepower = Mechanical unit of power. 1 HP = 745 Watts
= Conversion of electrical power to mechanical power.
Fan Laws: CFM2 = CFM1 x RPM2 / RPM1 or CFM is directly pegged to rpm.
If RPM is cut in half then CFM is also cut in half. If 1,040 RPM produces 1,200 CFM then 520
RPM will produce 600 CFM.
HP @ S2 = HP @ S1 x (RPM2 / RPM1)3 This demonstrates that the horsepower required to turn
the fan is related to the cube root of the speed change. Or if the fan’s speed is cut in half, then the
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amount of air delivered is also cut in half but the Horsepower required is only 1/8 of the original
Horsepower required. OR, a fully loaded 1 HP fan motor running at 1,040 RPM and producing
1,200 CFM will only require 1/8 HP to deliver 600 CFM at ½ speed of 520 RPM. This
demonstrates that the power required to turn the fan reduces a lot faster than the reduction in
CFM being delivered.
Watts2 = Watts1 x (RPM2/RPM1)3 or Watts2 = Watts1 (CFM2/CFM1)3 This demonstrates that
the electrical power required to turn the fan drops by the cube of the speed change. Or drop the
speed (RPM) in half and the Power (Watts) required is 1/8 the original power required. Our
example: 1/2 HP fully loaded fan motor running at 1,040 RPM and delivering 1,200 CFM requires
745 watts/2 or 372.5 Watts. Cut this motor’s speed in half and you cut the air delivery in half but
the Wattage required is 372.5/8 = 46.6 Watts.
Therefore, a fan motor must run 8 hours at half speed to use the same amount of electricity as it
would running at full speed for 1 hour.
Now lets bump this up-against reality. Lets assume that our example fan is in an average furnace.
On an average winter day it runs about 1/2 of the time. It therefore uses 372.5 watts / 2 = 186 watt
-hours of electricity. Now we install a variable speed fan that runs the fan full time. Now lets say
there is a call for heat 3 times during that hour and the fan reaches top speed three times for 3 1/3
minutes each time (which it probably won’t) 10 minutes per hour = 1/6 hour x 372.5 watts = 62
watts and the other 50 minutes it uses 5/6 of 46.6 watts = 38.83 watts for a total of 38.8 + 46.6 =
100 watts per hour. For a savings of 86 watt-hours. And the home is comfortable, the air cleaner
or filters are working full-time at much higher efficiency.
Monthly cost for a variable speed fan equipped fan at $0.10 per KWH = 86 watt hours x 24 hours
x 30 days per month = 61,920 watt-hours or 61.9 KWH x $0.10 = $6.19 per month. If you ran the
full-speed fan round the clock, it would cost 372.5 watts X 24 hours = 8.9 KW = $0.89 per day X
30 days per month = $26.00 per month. If you ran the full-speed fan ½ the time it would cost
$13.00 per month.
This proves that a variable speed fan saves energy! Simply put, you can run a variable speed fan,
for eight hours at half speed for the same cost as running it one hour at full speed.
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BASIC
AIR IS CRITICAL
TO
CHAPTER 4: RETURN
EQUIPMENT
SYSTEM LIFE AND PERFORMANCE.
STYLE
HVAC Performance Depends on Good Ductwork
The heart of your home’s HVAC system is the
equipment selected to deliver conditioned air – your
furnace, air conditioner, heat pump or boiler.
However, as with the human body, a healthy heart
cannot overcome problems associated with
dysfunctional arteries.
Ductwork is the artery component of your HVAC
system, channeling warm or cool air to various parts
of the home as needed. When something goes
wrong with an HVAC system, most people are
inclined to think it’s a “heart problem” originating
with the equipment. Frequently our trained
technicians pinpoint a ductwork issue as the cause.
Ductwork that is damaged, poorly sized or improperly installed can result in bad air
flow, leaks and excessive utility bills. Our technicians usually can repair damaged ductwork
without too much trouble. More problematic is when they encounter poor performance due to
poorly sized ductwork or sloppy installation.
Over-sized systems run up utility bills and have trouble maintaining the desired air flow. Undersized ductwork causes noise and strain on the system, leading to premature failure. Sizing
ductwork involves calculations that take into account the local climate, size of your home, type of
construction, insulation, windows and doors, shading and other factors. Incompetent or lazy
contractors may ignore the guidelines and simply design ductwork by “feel” based on their
experience. Often their “feel” involves cutting corners for the sake of a lower bid price. How would
you like to employ a heart surgeon with that attitude?
A key measurement when sizing HVAC systems is CFM, i.e., how many cubic feet per minute of
air movement the system will be required to handle. A common mistake made by some
contractors who install combined heating/cooling systems is to size the system based on the
heating load. Air conditioning requires more CFM, so when the same ductwork is used for both
heating and cooling it’s wise to size the system for the air conditioning.
Another problem we frequently encounter is when homes are not properly zoned. Zoning refers to
different rooms or areas with different air flow requirements for maximum comfort and efficiency.
Some single-story homes can get by with a single HVAC zone, but most homes with two or more
floors will need separate ductwork zones for each floor. That’s because hot air rises while cool air
sinks. So a single zone in a multi-story house usually will result in uncomfortable temperature
variations. The upstairs will be much warmer than downstairs. This is a common occurrence and
one you’ve probably encountered either as a home owner or a visitor to a home with poor zoning.
All of this points to the importance of selecting an HVAC contractor that operates professionally
and in accordance with the codes, standards and best practices of the field.
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Competitive bidding often puts pressure on contractors to cut corners in ways that impact system
performance. Just keep in mind that home owners who ignore best practices in favor of a cheaper
price always end up paying a bigger price down the road.
The Problem with Leaky Ducts
Mid-summer has arrived. That means your air conditioning is getting a
vigorous workout, and so is your monthly utility bill.
Does it seem like your air conditioner costs more to run than it should?
Do you ever wonder why some rooms are very hard to cool? Or, why
does your house always seems too dusty?
Any and all of these problems may be caused by leaky ductwork.
The leaks may be tiny and subtle, occurring at collars, joints and the air handling interface. If you
live in a newly built home, the problem may stem from sloppy installation by the builder's crew. In
older homes, it's a simple fact of life that over time joints come loose and duct tape falls apart.
Even if it's a small hole, when the equipment is turned on, air pressure in the ducts increases 15
to 30 times. This forces air to escape, just like out of the narrow stem of a blown-up balloon.
Individually, none of these leaks may amount to much, but the cumulative effect is to dramatically
reduce the operating efficiency of your HVAC system. One study done by the Florida Governor's
Energy Office concluded that duct leaks increase total cooling and heating energy use in Florida
by about 33%. Calculate how much money you can save if you could cut your HVAC expense by
a third.
You can detect and fix minor duct leaks yourself. While the system is running, feel along the ducts
for air escaping. When you locate minor leaks, you can plug them with silicone sealants made
especially for duct systems. Hardware stores also sell special aluminized tape that is more
effective than duct tape for wrapping around duct joints and bends.
Also be sure to keep the filters clean on any forced air system. They should be replaced about
once a quarter for optimum performance.
While these do-it-yourself fixes will solve minor problems, more serious cases would benefit from
an examination by our professional HVAC technicians. If you have return air duct leaks in an attic
or crawl space, often they will draw that hot, dusty, moldy air into conditioned space. This not only
wastes energy, it can be a health hazard as well.
Mold and mildew from leaky ducts can float through the air and accumulate on various surfaces.
Over time this can lead to structural damage to walls and furniture. Worse, they can lead to
serious health problems for people with mold and mildew allergies, or for people with respiratory
ailments. Humidity given off from leaky air ducts may also cause rust in building metal
components.
So if you live in an older home, get someone to clean your ductwork!
Have you ever had your ductwork cleaned?
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Do I Need a Duct Cleaning?
Another question heard often is, do I need a duct cleaning? The answer to that could be different
for many people. There have been studies conducted for and even a few against duct cleaning.
How can this be? This seems like a pretty easy question yet it has many people giving many
different opinions. Let examine what might make a duct cleaning more or less likely to be needed.
Residents: The health condition of residents in a home can play a factor. Why? Allergy issues
can dramatically reduce the quality and the quantity of sleep. A home with a family with health
issues and a low immune system is more likely to be negatively affected by poor air quality.
Duct Location: Air ducts in the floor will gather more dust and falling debris than duct in the
ceiling or walls. Kids and animals are more likely to put things down in a vent. Once a cat had
climbed into the ductwork and had babies. Would you want that cleaned and sanitized?
Duct Material: What the duct work is made from could also affect the need for a duct cleaning.
Metal ductwork, that is insulated on the outside, will need less cleaning than duct board or any
ductwork with insulation on the inside. Most square metal ducts have insulation on the inside
while most round metal duct get insulated on the outside.
Age of Duct System: This is the category most refer when saying 'you need a duct cleaning'
because it's old. That's an easy and very general answer. Age is not a prime factor as to getting a
duct cleaning.
Homeowners Desire: Carpet does not have to be cleaned professionally. However, there is a
whole industry created just for this reason. It's the homeowners desire to keep their home clean,
fresh and nice that causes people to get their carpet cleaned. Duct cleaning is the same way. To
know your home's duct work is clean, sanitary, fresh smelling and nice will require a systematic
approach to maintaining it.
Many will often follow up their question with which type of duct cleaning do I need? We offer a
standard and a deluxe cleaning. The more factors you have of needing a duct cleaning the more
the deluxe will be better for you. The less factors (mentioned above) the more likely a standard
cleaning will work for you.
Example 1: A home with square metal duct with insulation on the inside of the duct system in the
floor of a family with pets and children that have allergy issues, you probably need a deluxe duct
cleaning.
Example 2: A home with registers in the ceiling mage of metal round pipe with insulation on the
outside of a neat keep clean home with no pets and only occasional visit from children could be
very happy with a standard duct cleaning.
We offer duct inspection and would be glad to advise you on duct cleaning choices you could
make.
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EQUIPMENT FEATURE
CHAPTER 5: AND SELECTION BASIC
EQUIPMENT
STYLE
An Expert Interview About SEER
What is SEER for Air Conditioning? SEER stands for
Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating. That really didn't help
you understand what it means though. It is the ratio of Air
Conditioner performance to the amount of electricity it
consumes. Easiest way to explain SEER is to equate it to
miles per gallon (MPG) for a car. The higher the MPG or
SEER the less energy it takes to do its job and that relates
to less money.
This is a little simplistic answer to the question but it is all
many people (other than Engineers) want to know.
Most people know the MPG of their car and are reminded of the money it consumes every
time they stop at the gas station. Do you know the SEER of your AC? It probably consumes more
of your money than your car but we never think about it. An Energy Audit and SEER calculation
can tell you for sure.
What is a Ton of Air Conditioning?
"That house needs a ton of air conditioning!"
You might hear that sometimes in Birmingham, Alabama, but does it need a 'ton'? Well it could.
The term 'ton of AC' came from the early years when ice houses would literally take a 2000 pound
piece of ice and it would be sat in a basement where air could be circulated over it to cool the air.
This would then cool the building. I am glad that's not what we do today.
The amount of heat that it takes to melt 2000 pounds of ice is 12000 Btu's. A Btu is a unit of heat
known as the British Thermal Unit. So in today's terms a 2 ton air condition can remove 24000
Btu's of heat from the air in a home. Most residential air conditioners start at 1.5 tons and go up
by a half ton until 4 tons and then jumps to a 5 ton. A home needing more than 60,000 Btu's of AC
would use multiple units to solve the air conditioning needs.
1.5 ton = 18,000 Btu's
2 tons = 24,000 Btu's
2.5 tons = 30,000 Btu's
3 tons = 36,000 Btu's
3.5 tons = 42,000 Btu's
4 tons = 48,000 Btu's
5 tons = 60,000 Btu's
What size is the unit in your home? Go check the model number. Most manufacturers will embed
the size in the model number. The location will vary by manufacturer but if you see a 36 in the
model number it is probably rated at 3 tons.
Did this help explain an old world term we still use today?
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Single Stage vs. Two Stage Compressors
The compressor is the heart of an air conditioning system. It pressurizes and moves the
refrigerant back and forth from the condenser to the evaporator. It is probably the single most
important and expensive item in your ac system. This single item can make the most impact on
the operation of your home comfort system. Make sure to make the proper choices. Here are a
few advantages and disadvantages. (single stage vs. two stage compressors)
Single Stage Compressors
Advantages:

Simple to work on

Cheaper to replace

Readily available for repairs
Disadvantages:

On/off control

The unit must run at full capacity even if only a small amount of heat is needed
Two Stage Compressors
Advantages:

Greater control

Greater humidity control

The first stage could be used on low needs days and save energy

Greater efficiency
Disadvantages:

Higher cost

More complicated to repair or replace

More complicated refrigerant charging process

Not readily available to replace and may have to be ordered
There is also a third choice that is moving in greater and great availability. It's called Variable
Refrigerant Volume (VRV). It is much more expensive and allows for any need for ac to be exactly
met by varying the cooling capacity of the unit from 30% to 100% of the size unit. It is the ultimate
in efficiency, comfort and cost. Currently the only central AC system on the market is
manufactured by Lennox.
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Furnace Heat Chambers:
Aluminized Steel vs. Stainless Steel
Steel comes in several variations and each of them have unique qualities. Let us look at
aluminized steel vs. stainless steel.
First, what is aluminized steel? Aluminized steel is steel that has been hot dip coated on both
sides with aluminum-silicon alloy. This process assures a tight metallurgical bond between the
steel sheet and its aluminium coating, producing a material with a unique combination of
properties possessed neither by steel nor by aluminium alone.
Next, what is stainless steel? Stainless steel is a steel alloy with a minimum of 10.5%
chromium by mass.
The economical aspect of these two varieties of steel is noticeable. Aluminized steel is cheaper
than the stainless steel. This is because of the production cost of Aluminized steel is low when
compared to the production cost of stainless steel.
The strength of these steels is also noticeable. The stainless steel is the stronger of the two. It is
also more durable than aluminized steel. In respect to rusting, stainless steel does not rust. This is
because of the presence of chromium. On the other hand, Aluminized steel can get corroded if
the aluminum coat gets broken.
When comparing Aluminized steel vs. stainless steel, Aluminized steel has high thermal
conductivity. Unlike the aluminized steel, the stainless steel has a high thermal expansion
coefficient, which means that it could change shape when exposed to overheat.
Some of the common products made from aluminized steel include builder grade water heaters,
ranges, furnaces, space heaters and grills. Stainless steel is also used in the manufacture of
many things like high end kitchen appliances, cookware, storage tanks and even in the
construction industry.
Summary

Aluminized steel is cheaper than stainless steel.

The stainless steel is stronger. It is more durable than aluminized steel.

In respect to rusting, stainless steel does not rust. Aluminized steel can get corroded if the
aluminum coat gets broken or overheated.

Stainless steel heat chambers usually come with longer warranties.

Aluminized steel has higher thermal conductivity.

Stainless has aesthetics when compared to aluminized steel. This is why stainless steel is
used in high end kitchen appliance, which add to its beauty.

Higher end products (like kitchen appliances) are made from stainless steel. Cheaper items
use aluminum steel to imitate stainless.
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Why is New Copper for Refrigerant Lines Important?
Have ever seen an old AC guy's pickup riding around with copper lines loose in the back? Refrigerant
lines are very important part of the air conditioning system as it carries the refrigerant from
the condensing unit to the evaporator coil and back. Great effort is involved from the factory and
professional HVAC installers to remove all moisture from inside of an HVAC system. However, many
uneducated ac guys will grab any piece of scrap copper and install it as the refrigerant lines in a
system.
Only new, unused refrigerant lines should be installed. Why? New Copper lines designated for
refrigerant use have had all the moisture removed from the inside of the line and sealed before
shipping to the installation site. These copper lines will be marked as dehydrated on the outside.
Moisture is the enemy of the compressor as any moisture that is inside the system will combine with
the refrigerant and form an acid. This acid will then corrode the copper windings of the compressor
motor. A gauge called a megometer can test the resistant of the compressor motor and give a reading
as to the amount of damage a compressor has sustained from this.
Once the sealed copper is opened, moisture begins to creep into the lines. Especially in Birmingham,
Alabama, humidity is very high and will begin to form small water drops on the inside of copper that is
left unsealed. Never let unsealed refrigerant lines be installed on your new ac system. It will shorten
the life of the system.
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BASIC
CHAPTER 6: ENHANCEMENTS AND CONTROLS
EQUIPMENT
STYLE
Do I Need a New Digital Thermostat?
The truth is NO. Many systems will run off of an old analog thermostat. SHOULD you replace your
old thermostat with a digital thermostat? YES. Many features that did not exist 10 - 20 years ago
are being built in to new thermostats and are not even mentioned as a feature.
1. Equipment Protection: Although a manual thermostat will send the signal to turn on the ac, it
will not know if the equipment is ready and safe. The old thermostat could be turned off and on
instantly and this would send the power to the compressor. This on and off instantly looks like a
power surge to your equipment and can cause damage to control parts as well as the
compressor.
2. Family Protection: Old manual thermostats have Mercury in them. This is very dangerous to
humans if the thermostat were to be hit or knocked off the wall. (Kids will do crazy things when
adults are not watching.)
3. Operating Efficiency: New thermostats have features built-in to manage the efficiency of the
AC or Furnace. Controlling the primary or second stage only when needed or calling for the
cheapest form of heat on a dual fuel system are two money saving examples of digital
thermostats.
4. Programming: Many new thermostats have the ability to program a schedule to only operate
when people are in the home 90% of homes fail to use this feature.
5. Auto Change Over: This one feature is the greatest item of all. Set the temperature at the
thermostat, if heat is needed, it turns on the furnace. If cooling is needed, it turns on the AC. It’s
just like the AC in any modern car.
I hope this help understand why we probably made a recommendation to upgrade your
thermostat, but if you need more explanation, please ask the technician the next time he is in your
home!
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I Have Elderly Parents Who Have
A Difficult to Operate Thermostat,
Can You Recommend An Easy to Use Solution?
Their are a large number of people who have a difficult to operate thermostat. We always
recommend either the Nest Thermostat or the Emerson Blue Easy Reader Thermostat. Our
clients who have these thermostats have been pleased with them.
We have spoke of the Nest in other posts, Click here to read about Nest.
There are many benefits of the Emerson Blue Easy Reader Thermostat:

Large Screen

Large Numbers

Simple one button and one function operation

Lighted display

Tall characters and one-touch mode buttons.
A hands on tutorial is available and recommended prior to our installation technician leaving your
home to ensure you know how to operate easily. Click here for an operational video. If you are a
member of the Freedom Comfort Club, you will receive a 20% discount off our normal price of
$290. If we can help you with the installation of an easy to use thermostat, please call
205-444-4444.
Why have a Difficult to Operate Thermostat? Check out the Emerson Easy Reader.
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Will a Nest Thermostat Work with my AC System?
We receive this call several times a week due to we install more Nest Thermostats than any other
heating and air conditioning company in Birmingham, Alabama. The second generation Nest will
work on 95% of hvac systems out there. We find that in our area that number is low and almost
all systems we have seen will work with the Nest Thermostat. Go to Nest's website and check
for yourself.
Also, many people will ask about the difference between the first generation and the second
generation. Let me just summarize that the differences are significant enough to warranty only
using the second generation unit. We use a first generation and two second generation units at
our office. In fact, we can install a first generation unit but it will be the same price as we would
have to special order a remanufactured first generation unit.
Does It Matter How You Achieve Efficiency?
Or that you get a lower power bill!
The HVAC industry throws the term efficiency around often and it can be confusing which
meaning someone is referring.
ef·fi·cien·cy (From dictionary.com)
/ɪˈfɪʃ ən si/ Show Spelled [ih-fish-uh
n-see] noun, plural ef·fi·cien·cies.
1. the state or quality of being efficient; competency in performance.
2. accomplishment of or ability to accomplish a job with a minimum expenditure of time and effort: The assembly line increased
industry's efficiency.
3. the ratio of the work done or energy developed by a machine, engine, etc., to the energy supplied to it, usually expressed as a
percentage.
Most often we refer to efficiency as it refers to how much it cost you on your power bill. Does it
matter how a contractor achieves a 30% savings on your power bill. Well it could! Some efficiency
can are cheaper to get than others. Very expensive items such as inverter technology variable
refrigerant volume systems will often achieve only the same savings as less expensive items like
duct return sizing and sealing. Wow!
Most people only want the savings and the power bill to go down, not how each component
contributed. There are those people who need every detail in a system and that's ok. Let's list out
the enhancements from most cost effective to improving efficiency.
1. Cleaning and Tuning Up a system is the most cost effective money saving item.
2. Regular Filter change (clogged filters damage more systems than any other item)
3. Return Air Proper Sizing (The return air is the most critical and most often improperly sized item in a system)
4. Duct Sealing
5. SEER Rating
6. Variable Speed Blower Motors
7. Dual Stage Compressor Technology
8. Inverter technology variable refrigerant volume systems
Remember, this is a list from most cost effective you to get a lower power bill and not saying
which is better from a performance stand point.
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How Much Insulation Do I Need in My Home?
For this question you must understand the region you live in. In Birmingham, Alabama, we
experience more cooling months than we do heating months. The state of Alabama HVACR
board recommends at least R-30 of insulation. Alabama Power (our local utility company) would
like for home owners to upgrade to R-60 of insulation in their attics. Insulation is a very cheap and
quick energy saving item.
So how can you tell if you have R-60 or not? It depends on
the material you use to insulate. The most commonly found
loose fill insulation would need approximately 20 inches of
depth. If you can go in your attic and see the rafters, you
need more insulation.
Spray Foam Insulated Attics
I recently read an article by Allison Bailes, III, PhD about the HVAC pitfalls of spray foam insulated
attics. It was a very good article and I wanted to share this with you. Spray foam insulation can be
a good option for homeowners to use in attics to help with a home’s air tightness. However,
Allison says that too many times installers make several mistakes that can defeat the purpose of
the insulation or cause more serious issues.
Earlier this year she got a question about a home that had spray foam insulation in the attic.
Nothing unusual about that. A lot of builders and homeowners are going with spray foam
insulation because of the airtightness benefits. But then the questioner mentioned that the spray
foam contractor had intentionally left big holes to the outside by not sealing the gable vents. The
first pitfall is not thoroughly sealing the attic.
The next pitfall is that the house her friend asked about has atmospheric combustion appliances
in the spray foam insulated attic. The spray foam contractor on that job saw the two furnaces in
the attic and knew they needed combustion air from the space around them. If he had sealed up
the attic completely, where would the furnaces get combustion air? That’s why they didn’t seal the
gable vents. Now when those furnaces run, they can pull in the combustion air they need through
those holes. But wait. If the homeowners are getting spray foam on their roofline to make the
home more airtight, why would they leave big holes to the outside?
Oops!
A house is a system
It’s nice that the spray foam insulation contractor recognized the need for combustion air in that
case. In many, they don’t get that far. Whether you’re building a new home or retrofitting an
existing home, though, you’ve got to remember that the hip bone’s connected to the thigh bone;
or, as we say in building science, a house is a system.
Newer homes have to meet building codes that help prevent this problem. If there’s atmospheric
combustion inside the building enclosure, the HVAC contractor is required to install vents that are
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supposed† to bring combustion air into the room where the appliances are located. If the
atmospheric combustion appliances start off in a vented attic, the building code doesn’t require
those vents because the appliances are already connected to the outside and should get plenty of
air.
Whether the home is old or new, however, anyone considering spray foam insulation would be
wise to ask this question: What impact will encapsulating the attic have on the HVAC system?
This question applies to encapsulated crawl spaces as well.
If a home currently has atmospheric combustion, you’ve got two options: Don’t spray foam in the
attic or replace the old equipment with sealed combustion, power-vented, or direct vent
appliances. If the house isn’t built yet—or at least doesn’t have the HVAC equipment installed
yet—make sure there’s no atmospheric combustion equipment going inside the building
enclosure.
Remember: A house is a system.
My evaporator coil is leaking, why? or
Why do I have a leaking evaporator coil?
We sometime hear customers ask, Why do I have a leaking evaporator coil? I posed this question
to our internal tech forum. The following are the comments and discussions that came from our
service technicians. Please excuse the grammar as this discussion took place over text message.
Don: Forum Question: Why do evaporator coils leak?
Allan: Formic acid from the formaldehyde in the building materials eats through them
Allan: Dissimilar metal corrosion
Charles: And the copper tubing is thinner than it used to be
Justin: The galvanizing process is cheaper than it used to be
Allan: The government legislation that raised the minimum efficiency to 13 SEER resulted in the
manufacturers using thinner copper to offset their cost of manufacture
Jeff: but less resistance to the effects of Formic acid corrosion. By resistance I mean time, time
for it to eat through the thinner copper
Allan: A coil made 30 years ago would take 10-15 yrs to leak, one made today and installed on
new construction wil last 3-7 yrs
Allan: Coils installed on existing homes will last longer due to the dissipation of the formaldehyde
fumes in the building materials
Charles: So bringing in fresh air into the central air system could even help prolong a systems life
Allan: Yes but the air in the southeast would have to be run through a dehumidifier prior to being
introduced into the system or your walls would mildew due to the increased humidity
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Jeremy: Aluminum coils would be the cure for this but that's probably another discussion
Chris: A lack of maintenance will cause the internal pressures to be higher. This with the
combination of thinner metal will accelerate leaks
I am proud of this discussion that resulted. We have worked really hard on better communication
both internally and externally. This is how a company is suppose to grow and share the
knowledge. Every employee may not have every answer but with a support system like this allows
us to have a collective knowledge base bigger and better than any one guy. I am happy to share
this with you. If you need any further assistance call us at 205-444-4444. We look forward to
helping you resolve your leaking evaporator coil problem.
Check out the next article in this series: How to Prevent Evaporator Coil Leaks?
How to Prevent Evaporator Coil Leaks?
Ninety-five percent (95%) of evaporator coil leaks are preventable. We see about 5% that are
legitimate manufacturers defects. The major manufacturers state the failure rate is only 2%-3%.
We believe that the humidity levels in the south cause the difference with longer AC runtimes than
in other areas.
So, can you really prevent evaporator coil leaks? YES
A major cause of evaporator coil leaks, see article, is formic acid. So how can you prevent formic
acid. This acid is produce when volatile organic compounds (VOC) react with the copper the coil
is made from. VOCs are any household chemical that has the ability to react with other elements.
Most VOC's come from the vapor released from cleaning agents, aerosol cans, air fresheners that
put out a scent and not neutralize the smells, carpets, and any product that was created as a
chemical process.

Reduce the use of VOC's.

If possible, bring in fresh air into the HVAC system to help dissipate the VOCs.

Use a whole house air purifier that is design to neutralize VOC through the use of ultraviolet
light. The sun produces ultraviolet light naturally and it neutralizes VOC's naturally. The
problem is sunlight does not happen inside your duct system and near your evaporator coil. A
Lennox PureAir utilizes ultraviolet light to replicate the suns natural process and purify the air.

Reduce the acid build up. Regularly cleaning and servicing the coil will slow acid build up. This
is one extra benefit most people overlook when it come to regular service, a longer coil life.
Also a clean unit will run less internal refrigerant pressures from the compressor. Less
pressure means less chance of a weak place in the coil becoming a leak.

Install a coil lamp in sight of the coil to keep growth and bacteria from covering the coil. This
last tip is just as much about healthy air as coil protection but does help the coil life by
reducing growth which clogs air flow between cleanings. Coil lights keep a coil that is
maintained clean, but doesn't usually clean a dirty coil.
Call us today for more information and a coil inspection.
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BASIC
CHAPTER 7: ALLERGY PROTECTION
EQUIPMENT
STYLE
Several Insane (but true) Things About Humidity
Why is Humidity Important to My Comfort?
Humidity; the amount of water in the air. OK, I heard that before but why should I care?
Comfort is a feeling and not a number on your thermostat. Comfort is a combination of the
temperature and humidity. Some people set the thermostat on 78 degrees while others will set it
on 72 degrees, Why? It has a lot to do with the humidity level. Lower humidity levels produce
comfort at higher temperatures and higher humidity levels produce comfort at lower temperature.
Every 10 % less Humidity is equal to 3 degrees of temperature comfort. Lower the humidity 20%
in your home and set the thermostat 6 degrees warmer and still be just as comfortable.
A gauge called a hydrometer will read humidity and show it as a percentage. 0% means there is
no water vapors in the air. 100% would mean its raining inside your home. (not really)
Where should the humidity level be in your home? Well it could depend on where you are
located and any medical conditions you might have. But generally, in Birmingham, Alabama, I try
to manage the humidity to 50%. General 45% to 55% is commonly recommended.
What is bad about high humidity? High water levels in the air make it easier for molds and
mildews to grow in the air and then on your basement walls. Get a glass of ice water and sit it on
a table. Is there a lot of condensation on the outside of the glass? Where did the moisture on the
outside of the glass come from? it came out of the air. That one fact created the need for a new
product, the coaster, in almost every house in America. That is a quick and easy test for humidity.
What is bad about low humidity? Low humidity can cause the human body to loose moisture
and it usually is noticeable in the sinus passages. Have ever woke one morning to find it takes a
good shower before you can breath well? That could be a sign of low humidity.
Newer thermostats, like the Nest (www.nest.com) will read and report humidity levels. Most older
model thermostats were not equipped with hydrometers. Is your Home Comfortable?
MERV, Not Another Funny Texting Letters
MERV stands for Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value. It is a scale
to show the performance of an air filter. The scale runs from 0 to 21.
Most 'cheap' filters you find in the grocery store are rated
approximately 2-3. 'Good' filters that are pleated are about a MERV
7-8. Filtrete makes a great air quality filter that gets an 11-12 rating.
Any rating at 10 or above is considered a quality filter. Lennox has a
filter that is rated as 'hospital quality' with a rating of 16. Clean Room
technology like semiconductor manufacturing is a MERV 20-21.
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How Can I Know If I Have
Mold and Mildew in My Ventilation System?
How can I know if I have mold and mildew if I can't see it on the HVAC register?
Mold and mildew is not easily detected if it is not in a visible area in your home. One sign of mold
and mildew problems in your HVAC ductwork are changes of indoor allergies. You may begin to
sneeze, have nasal congestion, skin irritation and other health issues. These can become severe
if mold and mildew are not properly removed. Indoor air quality (IAQ) is often low when you begin
to notice a foul and musty odor coming from your heating and cooling system's return air
ductwork. If you suspect any mold and mildew in your ventilation system, contact us at
205-444-4444 for an free inspection and removal proposal.
Air Duct Cleaning Service or a Better Air Filter,
Which is the Best Investment?
There are 3 filters in every home. The filter you should
change but forget. The equipment captures and clogs
up with anything the filter misses. And finally, your lungs
will breathe in anything the filter and equipment misses
and will trap it in your lungs. Which one are you relying
on for your home?
The question is "which came first, the chicken or the
egg?" We receive more calls and questions about air
duct cleaning than high performance filters. Air duct
cleaning would never be needed if a high performance
filters captured the dirt. After years of neglecting your duct work, the only choice you have is to
clean it. Every duct cleaning service should only be done if a high performance filter is added.
Would you go to a doctor with lung cancer yet be smoking in his lobby? How can a doctor cure
someone who isn't willing to fix the cause. Air duct cleaning will not fix the dirt from returning. Air
filters cure the disease and keep the cancer in the duct work in remission.
You answer the question, which is more important?
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Clean Indoor Air; A Simple Guide to Indoor Air Quality
Filter
The first level of indoor air quality (IAQ) is the filter. This is the step that
removes particles from the air by pulling the air through an element,
usually paper, to grab the impurities. The rating of a filter shows how it
performs. The Minimum Efficiency Rating Value (MERV) scale starts at
0 and maxes out at 21.
Air Purifier
Air Purifiers are a compliment to air filters. They are designed to eradicate any impurities that
pass through the filter. The UV light in an air purifier will change the DNA structure of the
organism not allowing it to replicate. This will kill it in that it can not grow any additional cells.
Duct Cleaning
Some believe that cleaning air ducts is not necessary. But if cleanliness' is important, then you
need to get any potential food source for bacteria out of our home. Check out this cheap and
quick video of the inside of duct work as its being cleaned. There are different types of duct
cleaning that range from a simple vacuum, to an agitation method such as a whip, a spinner ball
and even a brush. All methods have their positive and negatives but any method done thoroughly
will result in a clean duct system. If a simple duct cleaning does not get the air distribution system
clean, consider replacing the duct work.
Duct Sealing
The next stage of clean air is to seal all of the joints in the duct work. Why is this important? To
keep the ducts clean requires that all the air pass through the filter and air purifier. The return that
is not sealed will suck in contaminates from a crawl space, wall void or attic. There are a couple
of methods of sealing ducts from metal foil tape, to mastic or a think paint, to new air based
sealants like AeroSeal that pressurize the ductwork to find the leaks and slowly 'glue' the hole
shut.
So what's next?
A complete inspection from a service professional is a great step forward.
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What Wikipedia Can't Tell You About Sinus Allergy Issues:
Two nights ago my daughter had sinus allergy issues and felt real
bad. She was mopey and whiney and could not breath well. Her
nose was stopped up and she had to breath out of mouth. The
tissue trail from constantly blowing her nose and missing the
garbage can was beginning to pile up.
I began to think about her and thought something is wrong in my
house. My house is a sanctuary of clean air and I own ever gadget, add on, enhancement or
product to improve the air quality in a home. I believe in the products we install so much that I will
install them in my home long before we will ever sell the items to a client.
I headed off to the attic to check the system for her bedroom area. Wouldn't you know it, the air
filter was flashing an error signal that it needed cleaning. I usually have my company come out
and service all my products every 6 months and maintain my home just like a Freedom Comfort
Club member would receive. I want the same experience in my home as you get in your home. It
allows me to check the work of my employees and quiz them on their understanding of high
performance air cleaning products. It was time for service!
Since I wanted my daughter to feel better and sleep, I decided to get the electronic air filter
operating at least through the night. I opened up the case and found a little build up on the
activator pins. I went and found a Styrofoam cup to use to clean the pins. I understand my
maintenance techs complaints as this is a very tedious task as there are about 80 pins that have
to be cleaned. After about 20 minutes and a few finger pricks later I was done. This was not a full
cleaning but I did get it operating.
I put the cover back on the unit and, using my iPhone, I remotely turned the thermostat down to
get the unit to come on. It did and the light was not flashing anymore. Great!
I closed everything up turned off the light and headed back down the stairs. I went back to the
thermostat and change the fan to the ON position. What good would it have been to have a filter
or air purifier and then not turn it on when I needed it, TONIGHT! I checked on my daughter and
we watched a little TV together.
About 2 hours later I notice she has fallen asleep and even though she is breathing loudly, I notice
it is through her nose. Wow, this stuff we install really works. Being able to breath better can
improve sleep dramatically.
The next morning I ask her how she feels and she gives me the thumbs up and appears to be
feeling better. Although now I am telling her to get ready for school. I saved a sick day from school
and my wife from rearranging her day to care for a sick child. That was worth the effort to
research air purifiers, install, and maintaining it. Years of thought went into the decision but it
saved the day and probably many more I have not even noticed.
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5 Ways To Deal With Crawl Space Air
The air in a crawl space can have a huge impact on a home’s durability and indoor environmental
quality. A building science expert, Allison Bailes says that contractors have several options to deal
with air in crawl spaces. In this article he details the five options and how they stack up for
meeting your customers’ needs.
The air in a crawl space can have a huge impact on a home’s durability and indoor environmental
quality
If you have a home with a crawl space—or are building or buying one—you have several options
on what to do with that particular foundation type. Most crawl spaces are vented to the outdoors,
but over the past decade, encapsulating the crawl space (as shown below) has gained favor
among builders of green and energy efficient homes. It’s often seen as the best way to eliminate
the moisture problems that often result from vented crawl spaces. But what do you do about the
air down there?
Before we address that question, however, let me point out that encapsulated crawl spaces are
great for humid climates, like the Southeastern US. In a dry climate, it may or not be worth the
cost to encapsulate. So, as always, do what’s most suitable for your climate.
Basically, your options are to do one of the following:

The tried and false method of venting the crawl space to the outdoors

Putting a little bit of supply air from the HVAC system into the crawl space

Using an exhaust fan to move air from the crawl space to outside

Installing a dehumidifier
Let’s take a look at each of these methods.
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1. Vent the crawl space to the outside
Do this in a humid climate, and you’re asking for trouble. The outside air that you bring into the
crawl actually has more moisture in it than the crawl space air you’re venting to the outside much
of the time. Although the psychrometric chart shows mathematically why it doesn’t work, a look
into just about any vented crawl space in the Southeastern US proves that venting to the outside
is often a disaster.
The photo of the moldy humidifier below is from a house
that was only a year or two old. Although the home builder
had installed closed cell spray foam insulation in all the
above-grade walls and the attic, he left the crawl space
vented to the outside. The result was mold growing on the
HVAC system.
Let’s just say this is your worst option unless you’re in a dry
climate and quickly move on to the better choices.
Conclusion: This is your worst option in humid climates.
It’s probably also worst for most climates if the HVAC
systems and ductwork are located in the crawl space.
2. Supply air from the HVAC system
If you encapsulate the crawl space, adding a little
bit of air from the HVAC system is probably the
most common method used. If there’s already a
duct system down there, it’s easy and inexpensive
to do. The air from the system helps to dry out the
crawl space air.
But it also puts the crawl space under a slight
positive pressure and the house under a slight
negative pressure. Is that a problem? Not
according to Advanced Energy‘s Closed Crawl
Spaces guide:
In Advanced Energy field tests, the small crawl space airflow causes a negligible pressure effect
that is far exceeded by the effects of duct leakage, stack pressure or wind-induced pressures in
the building.
How much supply air do you need to add to the crawl space? Advanced Energy recommends 1
cubic foot per minute (cfm) for each 30 square feet of crawl space floor area. The International
Residential Code (IRC) recommends 1 cfm per 50 square feet:
Conditioned air supply sized to deliver at a rate equal to 1 cubic foot per minute (0.47 L/s) for
each 50 square feet (4.7 m2) of under-floor area, including a return air pathway to the common
area (such as a duct or transfer grille), and perimeter walls insulated
If you go this route, it may work well in the summer if the air conditioner is sized properly. If the
system runs long enough, it can provide enough dry air to the crawl space to keep the relative
humidity below 70%, where you want it.
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In the swing seasons, however, and in homes with oversized air conditioners, this method may
not work well. Another thing about this method that I’m not crazy about is that you’re conditioning
the crawl space based on the conditions in the finished space above. The crawl space has its own
conditions, though, and may or may not respond well to controls in another place.
Conclusion: Although it’s the most common method of treating the air in encapsulated crawl
spaces, it may or may not work well.
3. Exhaust air to the outside
First, note that I’m not talking about the crazy idea to put large fans in the crawl space to
exchange large quantities of air between the outdoors and the crawl. (Yes, companies really do
promote this, and it’s a quick way to rot the wood in your crawl space.) I’m talking about a small
exhaust fan, as described in the IRC. Here’s the language from the code:
Continuously operated mechanical exhaust ventilation at a rate equal to 1 cubic foot per minute
(0.47 L/s) for each 50 square feet (4.7m2) of crawlspace floor area, including an air pathway to the
common area (such as a duct or transfer grille), and perimeter walls insulated
So a 2000 square foot crawl space would need a 40 cfm exhaust fan. It’s pulling just a little bit of
air from the crawl space. The problem is that you don’t really know where the makeup air for the
crawl space is coming from. Yes, the code specifies a pathway for air to move into the crawl
space from the house, but air doesn’t always follow those arrows in the diagrams. If the band joist
isn’t sealed well, for example, it may pull a lot of the air from outdoors, which isn’t really what you
want.
Conclusion: It could work but is probably less reliable than supply air from the HVAC system.
4. Install a dehumidifier
In this method, you use a standalone dehumidifier
for the crawl space. (Again, we’re talking about
encapsulated crawl spaces only; although some
people try, you can’t dehumidify the whole
outdoors.) It’s controlled by the conditions in the
crawl space, not the house above, so it this
method will do the best job of keeping the crawl
space dry.
If you want dry air in your crawl space, a
dehumidifier is the way to go. Yes, they do have
drawbacks. You have to buy additional equipment.
They require maintenance. If the drain fails, you
may have a bulk water problem in the crawl space.
If it’s a small crawl space, a standard dehumidifier that you can buy for $200 to $300 may be
sufficient. For medium to large crawl spaces, however, it’s best to go with a more robust model,
like the ones made by Therma-Stor. Their Santa Fe line is made for basements and crawl spaces.
The dehumidifier photo below shows an older Santa Fe model made just for encapsulated crawl
spaces.
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Conclusion: Although more expensive, installing a dehumidifier is the best method for treating
the air in an encapsulated crawl space.
5. Connect the crawl space to the house with a transfer grille
Both of the quotes from the building code that I mentioned above include the following language:
…including a return air pathway to the common area (such as a duct or transfer grille)
What they’re saying is that if you pressurize the
crawl space with supply air or depressurize it with
an exhaust fan, they want the crawl space to be
able to communicate with the house above to
relieve the pressure. The easiest way to
accomplish this is with a transfer grille right in the
floor, as you see in the photo below.
Advanced Energy isn’t a fan of this method, instead
recommending that the entire floor be air sealed to
isolate the crawl space from the house. There are
some good reasons for this. If, for example, the intent of the opening is for house air to move
downward (as in the case of the exhaust fan), the stack effect may win out if the crawl space isn’t
perfectly sealed to the outside.
Another potential problem is pollutants in the crawl space air migrating into the house. These
could be soil gases such as radon or fumes from paints, pesticides, or fuel stored in the crawl
space. Also, if the crawl space access door is left open, it may not be discovered for some time.
Meanwhile, the house is directly connected to the outside through that transfer grille.
Is it ever OK to install a transfer grille? Sure. In the house where I took the photo above, there’s
no access to the crawl space from outside, and the owner (a guy who only recently learned the
correct pronunciation of his name) doesn’t store hazardous chemicals down there (unless you
consider wine hazardous).
Dr. Joseph Lstiburek, whose transfer grille you can see in the photos below, thinks that mixing
house and crawl space air is fine in some cases: “If your crawlspace is ‘clean,’ connecting it to the
rest of the house is ok. If it is not clean then you should not do so. In trashed crawlspaces sucking
on them with a continuous exhaust fan works well. In clean crawlspaces up North, transfer grilles
work just fine. In between and in the South, a very small amount of return air works fine with a
transfer grille as does a small amount of supply air with a separate fan that does not blow cold air
from the HVAC system but blows house air that is warmer and drier.”
The bottom line
If I had to say one method was better than any other to deal with the air in a crawl space, it would
be to encapsulate it and install a dehumidifier. Adding supply air from the HVAC system can be
tricky and may let the crawl space humidity go too high in spring and fall. An exhaust fan may be
OK in some cases. One thing I’d recommend above all else, though is to monitor the air. Install a
digital thermo-hygrometer with a remote sensor so the homeowners can keep an eye on what’s
happening to the humidity levels there.
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BASIC
CHAPTER 8: WARRANTY ANDEQUIPMENT
PRICE
STYLE
Why No One Talks About Their Home Warranty Anymore
We get asked to be a home warranty contractor about twice a year. We decline the offer because
we offer a one price all-inclusive straightforward pricing. We are not designed to start a job as an
estimate, have cost adjustments and complete that job with a much higher price. This is the
typical "estimate" contractor mentality and home warranty contractors usually follow this
model. An "estimate" versus a "proposal" is a big difference in the contractor world.
Usually home warranty contractors will try and charge for the extra items because the home
warranty insurance company will not pay enough to complete the work. Watch out! "Estimate"
contractors like to give a low estimates to win jobs only to go back to the homeowner with add-ons
that make the job more expensive than complete proposals.
The insiders secrets to All the credits and rebates
available in Birmingham, AL
Federal Residential Energy Efficiency Tax Credits
This tax credit expired at the end of 2011. The American Taxpayer Relief Act of 2012 retroactively
renewed this tax credit effective January 1, 2012, expiring again on December 31, 2013. Any
qualified equipment installed in 2012 or 2013 is eligible for this credit. As in previous years, the
cumulative maximum amount of tax credit that can be claimed by a taxpayer in all years combined
is $500. If a taxpayer has already claimed a tax credit of $500 for purchases made in any previous
year, they are ineligible for additional tax credits for any new equipment purchases. This credit
applies to energy efficiency improvements in the building envelope of existing homes and for the
purchase of high-efficiency heating, cooling and water-heating equipment. Efficiency
improvements or equipment must serve a dwelling in the United States that is owned and used by
the taxpayer as a primary residence. The maximum tax credit for all improvements made in 2011,
2012, and 2013 is $500. The cap includes tax credits for any improvements made in any previous
year. If a taxpayer claimed $500 or more of these tax credits in any previous year, any purchases
made in 2011, 2012, or 2013 will be ineligible for a tax credit. Building Envelope
Improvements Owners of existing homes may receive a tax credit worth 10% of the cost of
upgrading the efficiency of the building's envelope. Installation (labor) costs are not included and
the credit is capped at $500 for all improvements. To be eligible for the credit, the improvement
must meet the prescriptive requirements established for it under the 2009 International Energy
Conservation Code (including supplements). The following improvements are eligible for the tax
credit:

Insulation materials and systems designed to reduce a home's heat loss or gain

Exterior doors and windows (including skylights) --- no more than $200 in total credits can be
claimed for windows in years 2006 - 2013

Pigmented metal roofs designed to reduce heat gain, and asphalt roofs with appropriate
cooling granules.
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Heating, Cooling and Water-Heating Equipment Taxpayers who purchase qualified residential
energy-efficient property may eligible for a tax credit. The credit is equal to the full cost of the
equipment up to the following caps:

Advanced main air circulating fan: $50

Natural gas, propane, or oil furnace or hot water boiler with an annual fuel utilization rate of 95
or greater: $150

Electric heat pump water heater with an energy factor of at least 2.0: $300

Electric heat pump which achieves the highest efficiency tier established by the Consortium for
Energy Efficiency: $300

Central air conditioner which achieves the highest efficiency tier established by the Consortium
for Energy Efficiency: $300

Natural gas, propane, or oil water heater which has either an energy factor of at least 0.82 or a
thermal efficiency of at least 90 percent: $300

Biomass stoves that use "plant-derived fuel available on a renewable or recurring basis,
including agricultural crops and trees, wood and wood waste and residues (including wood
pellets), plants (including aquatic plants), grasses, residues, and fibers": $300
The Alabama WISE Home Energy Program provides up to $750 in energy efficiency rebates for
homeowners in Cullman, Madison, Jefferson, Shelby, Morgan, Limestone and Lawrence counties.
A $350 rebate is available to homeowners who install efficiency measures that result in an energy
savings of at least 20% post energy audit, and an additional $400 rebate is available for eligible
project improvements. Only single-family, owner occupied homes are eligible to participate in the
WISE Home Energy program.
Residential Renewable Energy Tax Credit
Established by The Energy Policy Act of 2005, the federal tax credit for residential energy
property initially applied to solar-electric systems, solar water heating systems and fuel cells. The
Energy Improvement and Extension Act of 2008 extended the tax credit to small wind-energy
systems and geothermal heat pumps, effective January 1, 2008. Other key revisions included an
eight-year extension of the credit to December 31, 2016; the ability to take the credit against the
alternative minimum tax; and the removal of the $2,000 credit limit for solar-electric systems
beginning in 2009. The credit was further enhanced in February 2009 by The American Recovery
and Reinvestment Act of 2009, which removed the maximum credit amount for all eligible
technologies (except fuel cells) placed in service after 2008. A taxpayer may claim a credit of 30%
of qualified expenditures for a system that serves a dwelling unit located in the United States that
is owned and used as a residence by the taxpayer. Expenditures with respect to the equipment
are treated as made when the installation is completed. If the installation is at a new home, the
"placed in service" date is the date of occupancy by the homeowner. Expenditures include labor
costs for on-site preparation, assembly or original system installation, and for piping or wiring to
interconnect a system to the home. If the federal tax credit exceeds tax liability, the excess
amount may be carried forward to the succeeding taxable year. The excess credit may be carried
forward until 2016, but it is unclear whether the unused tax credit can be carried forward after
then. The maximum allowable credit, equipment requirements and other details vary by
technology, as outlined below.
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Solar-electric property

There is no maximum credit for systems placed in service after 2008.

Systems must be placed in service on or after January 1, 2006, and on or before December
31, 2016.

The home served by the system does not have to be the taxpayer’s principal residence.
Solar water-heating property


31, 2016.

Equipment must be certified for performance by the Solar Rating Certification Corporation
(SRCC) or a comparable entity endorsed by the government of the state in which the property
is installed.

At least half the energy used to heat the dwelling's water must be from solar in order for the
solar water-heating property expenditures to be eligible.

The tax credit does not apply to solar water-heating property for swimming pools or hot tubs.

Fuel cell property

The maximum credit is $500 per half kilowatt (kW).

31, 2016.

The fuel cell must have a nameplate capacity of at least 0.5 kW of electricity using an
electrochemical process and an electricity-only generation efficiency greater than 30%.

In case of joint occupancy, the maximum qualifying costs that can be taken into account by all
occupants for figuring the credit is $1,667 per 0.5 kW. This does not apply to married
individuals filing a joint return. The credit that may be claimed by each individual is proportional
to the costs he or she paid.

The home served by the system must be the taxpayer’s principal residence.
Small wind-energy property


31, 2016.

Geothermal heat pumps


31, 2016.

The geothermal heat pump must meet federal Energy Star criteria.

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Manufacturer Rebates
Most manufacturers offer a rebate for purchasing their equipment. The rebates are used by the
distributors when the demand slows. That means that the incentives are greater during the off
season rather than in the peak season. Replacing an AC in the winter or a furnace in the summer
could be virtually FREE after the rebates and the price difference from the peak season. And
Yes, manufacturers do raise their prices as demand increases. The best rebate I have seen
currently is $2000 from Lennox. Rebates expire so check our website for current offers.
Utility Refunds
Alagasco offers refunds for upgrading your furnace or gas water heater. Currently there is a $200
refund for replacing your furnace with a newer model furnace. Why do they offer this? To keep
you as a customer. They do not want to lose you to their competition, the electric companies. In
fact, Alagasco has a 'dump the pump' offer of a $1000 refund if you convert from a heat pump to a
gas furnace and air conditioner.
Other incentives from Alagasco include: Furnace (Replacement): $200 Dryer (Replacement):
$100 Natural Gas Range/Cooktop (Replacement): $100 Water Heaters (Replacement): $200
Tankless Water Heaters (Replacement): $200
Alabama power does not offer any refunds but will finance air conditioning systems and place this
on your regular bill.
Buyer's Clubs
Costco is a great retailer and has put more resources into the HVAC category. Lennox and
Costco have partnered to be the exclusive HVAC Brand offered through Costco. This is a very
impressive arrangement as Costco has always been known for the quality approach to
merchandise as opposed to lowest price while quality suffers as the other retailers have done.
Costco and Lennox then approve a local Contractor to install and service these members based
on a very rigorous selection process with the goal of Costco member satisfaction as the primary
concern. I am excited to be part of this program in the Birmingham, Alabama area. We feel it is an
honor and some recognition for our years of hard work.
Members earn a CASH card rebate through Costco. The amount is based on the size of the
Lennox Equipment up to $1000. Executive members earn even more as this purchase is reported
to Costco and is subject to the 2% additional rebate annually. American Express Costco Card
members can earns the rebate from AMEX as well if it is paid for on their AMEX card.
Finance Savings
If you do need to finance, the best offer we have seen is currently a 0% interest rate for 60
months. This is about a 20% savings when you analyze the time value of money.
With all these choices above, no wonder it can cause people to worry about making a decision.
Some people delegate this information to the professions and some people abdicate the decision
and hope they don't get taken advantage of. You now can confidently know what is in your best
interest.
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Costco members earn CASH from HVAC Installation
Costco is a great retailer and has put more resources into the HVAC
category. Lennox and Costco have partnered to be the exclusive HVAC
Brand offered through Costco. This is a very impressive arrangement as
Costco has always been known for the quality approach to merchandise as
opposed to lowest price while quality suffers as the other retailers have done.
Costco and Lennox then approve a local Contractor to install and service these members based
on a very rigorous selection process with the goal of Costco member satisfaction as the primary
concern. I am excited to be part of this program in the Birmingham, Alabama area. We feel it is
an honor and some recognition for our years of hard work.
Members earn a CASH card rebate through Costco. The amount is based on the size of the
Lennox Equipment up to $1000. Executive members earn even more as this purchase is reported
to Costco and is subject to the 2% additional rebate annually. American Express Costco Card
members can earns the rebate from AMEX as well if it is paid for on their AMEX card.
How Much Does an Air Conditioner Cost?
One of the first questions homeowners want to know when they call our company is: How much
does an air conditioner cost? Although this is a very difficult question to answer, I will try to do my
best here to explain some general pricing guidelines.
in their vehicle within the first five years of purchase, why do so many people elect to get so many
upgrades? The answer is because most people understand the importance of getting what they
want the first time so as to not have any regrets down the road. Because most Americans spend
over 30 minutes a day in their vehicles, they want to make sure their vehicle will provide them with
comfort, quality, longevity, and ease of use.
These same principles typically apply to most air conditioner shoppers. Understanding that they
are going to depend on their air conditioner everyday for as long as they live in their home, as well
as the fact that picking the air conditioner with the right options the first time is critical as to ensure
maximum enjoyment with minimum maintenance, most shoppers elect to get the air conditioner
that will make them happiest in the long-run. Unfortunately, some people only focus on the initial
price of the air conditioner with the only goal of finding the "cheapest" contractor, therefore
sacrificing efficiency, quality, warranty, and performance, which inevitably leads to regret,
especially considering that unlike a vehicle, an air conditioner cannot be traded in if one is
dissatisfied and disenchanted.
Now that you hopefully understand the vehicle analogy, I will list some of the most common "addons" found in the purchase of an air conditioner:
 Humidifier
 Hybrid
 Ventilation
 Dehumidification
 Air filter
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





Air purifier
Coil purifier
Variable speed fan
Variable refrigerant volume
Two stage compressor
Aluminum or copper evaporator coil
As you can see, there are many options available, and when someone receives a quote from our
company, we thoroughly examine each option as to educate the homeowner on the option's
benefits as to identify its overall importance to the success of the project.
When an inquiry is made as to how does much an air conditioner cost, complexity of the
installation is also a key factor. We have at least three different packages we offer our customers.
Unlike most air conditioner companies, we will do as much or as little as our customers would
have us do. This flexibility leads to less stress and more savings for the customer.
What's the Price of a Heating and Cooling System?
One of the first questions we get is "what's the price of a heating and cooling system?" This is
usually the first concern a home owners have as soon as the need comes to their mind. The
problem with answering this question is the complexity that a complete comfort system can have
with all the styles, brands and types of units that are available. I'll do my best to give you some
realistic price ranges that you may spend. (these prices are averages and estimations , and can
vastly change depending on the region, the company, manufacturer, warranty, etc)
Just the Box:
Sometimes, we will have a home owner that only wants to buy the equipment. Although there are
many more costs involved with a comfort system, there are people out there that want to do
everything themselves and buy every single component individually. I am reluctant to state these
price ranges because you must keep in mind these price ranges do not include installation, filter
system, duct work, etc.
Low or Basic Efficiency (13 SEER or less): $1,500-$3,000
Mid Grade Efficiency (14 - 15 SEER): $2,000-$4,000
High Efficiency (16 SEER and higher): $3,500-$8,000
Basic Install:
This typically includes: minimum code compliance, removal of old equipment, existing filter
system, duct transition, evacuation, and refrigerant charge.
Most heating and air conditioning systems, not including other options, will have a price range of
$4,000-$8,500. (This, like everything else mentioned in this article, is contingent on a many other
factors)
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Basic Install plus Filter:
This includes everything mentioned in the basic install plus the filter and return modification (Most
returns are sized for the home design and not the air flow needs. We have to upgrade the
majority of homes returns)
Typical Price Range: $4,500-$9,500
Complete with Existing Ducts:
This includes everything found in Basic install with filter, but it also includes duct sealing, air flow
balance and electrical upgrades.
Complete with ducts in a home that currently does not have a central system:
This includes everything found in Basic install with filter, but it also includes new insulated duct
work, gas piping of furnace, venting, electrical wiring and condensation drain system.
Prices For Other Options:
High Rated Air Filter:
Filter prices are between $500-$3,000 for most home.
Air Purifier:
Air Purifiers kill the living organisms in the air that the air filter does not remove. They cost
between $1,400-$2500
Coil Purifier:
A Coil purifier or 'stick light' is a small ultraviolet device mounted within a few inches up to 12
inches of the evaporator coil. It stops bacterial growth before it can turn into spores and get air
born. Prices range from $300-$1000.
Heat Pump:
Most heat pump upgrades cost between $1000-$2000, plus additional cost for electrical upgrade
or wiring
Hybrid / Dual Fuel:
Most hybrid upgrades cost between $800-$1600. Hybrid is all the benefits of the heat pump with
out the loss of the good heat of a gas furnace.
Dehumidifier and fresh air:
Dehumidification can get very expensive, depending on the size, location and fresh air
requirements. Most cost $2000-$5,000.
Humidifier:
The price of adding moisture to the air can vary. A simple bypass may be from $300 and a steam
model can be expensive as $1500.
Thermostat:
Most thermostats cost between $100-$600. More expensive controls can be remote capable,
programmable, learning or iPhone controllable.
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Although all of these numbers and prices are very general, I do hope this article helps you to have
a better feel for air conditioning pricing and what to expect when you start going through your
comfort system buying process.
Can I Get A Lower Price?
We get this question occasionally and it is human nature that people want
to make sure they are getting the best deal. Many companies and
technicians usually try to avoid any questions about price and money.
But here is the reality of price, you can get a lower price for systems or
repairs. We offer 5 choices for any repair and the trade off with price and
warranties is direct. The more premium and permanent choices allows
us to stand behind our work for longer periods of time. Temporary
repairs usually come with temporary warranties.
Many companies show one price and give no options to the
consumer. Many time this approach is a more forceful tactic.
Now this leads to the next logical question. "Why do we charge what we charge?" There are
many items that contribute to the price that is charged. The price of the part or system and the
labor to install it are the top items but not the only factors in price. The real costs of any company
will include all the items such as workers comp, insurance, office personnel, gas, advertising,
training, and the list goes on and on. We must manage our fixed overhead cost to 30% to have
any chance of not going out of business.
If a company does not operate professional and does not price to handle these expenses then
they will struggle to stay in business to honor any future warranties or obligations. When a
company starts cutting expenses they typically cut the training and education. These leads to a
downward spiraling effect. Most low cost companies are usually low training
companies. Technicians start guessing and guessing as to the problems with systems and this
could lead to a consumer paying for repairs that do not fix the problem and only hide the problem
for weeks or months or even till next season. Then next year the problem comes back and the
consumer must pay again for the next band aid. We prefer the permanent repair approach and a
full system evaluation is needed to complete this.
Ask yourself if the price the most important item or is the proper repair is the most important item.
Can I Just Replace my Furnace or AC Without Doing Both?
Yes, you can. Many so called sales people will say you have to replace both at the same time.
That's usually not true. What is true is there are time you should consider replacing both.
1. Hybrid Heat. Hybrid heating system is the most efficient way to heat a home. It uses electricity
to heat when that is the cheapest and switches to a backup source, usually natural gas in
Birmingham Alabama. So instead of replacing, upgrade.
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2. Control System. Most home owners do not realize that all the controls for the AC are located
inside the furnace. If you replace the AC and not look at the controls in the furnace, you could
turn around tomorrow and still not have any air conditioning. How mad would you get to spend
thousands of dollars to have an AC installed to have the company say you must pay more for it to
work?
3. Fan. The air movement throughout your home is done from an electric motor mounted in the
furnace. What good is it to have AC if you can not distribute it throughout the house?
4. Efficiency. We all heard the saying a chain is only as strong as its weakest link! In the HVAC
world, the efficiency is only as high as the lowest component. A 18 SEER compressor in a 10
SEER unit will not reach its full potential savings. A new AC on the wrong evaporator coil could
be less efficient than the old unit.
5. Cost Savings. It will cost more to replace both the Furnace and AC today but will be less than
the total of doing all the items individually. A little more today could save moreover then next few
years.
I Have a Friend in the HVAC Business
Using a friend may not be a good idea. We just received a call from a home owner who had his
friend, who previously worked for us, put in a system. We let the guy go because of ethical and
honesty problems and I can tell he has not changed. The new equipment is having
trouble after only 2 months. The friend probably gave him a good deal but now the homeowner
can not get the warranty part repaired. He has been waiting, trying to get back in touch with his
friend, but he may have to pay someone else to fix his new 'good deal' unit. This is just one of the
stories we here at least 10 times a year.
What could happen now? By hiring the unlicensed friend, the home owner is not protected by the
state held bond all HVACR contractor must post with the state of Alabama. The city did not
inspect the job as no city license or permit was obtained.
This spells out the bad that could happen to the homeowner, but what could happen to the
friend? Friends mean well, but you could be putting a friendship at risk. It is against the law if he
is not licensed in the appropriate trade. Also consider these problems:

He probably will not have liability insurance to protect your home in the event there is a
problem. What if he cuts corners and causes a fire? Are you sure he has the money to
rebuild your house for you?

You could also cost him his job as doing 'side work' is against most company policies. We
have to terminate someone every year due to 'side work'.

Workers compensation law states that if a worker is injured while working on your property,
you will be liable for his medical bills and weekly pay until he is able to work
again. Homeowners insurance does not cover workers compensation issues usually.
In this case, the state will also investigate and if the contractor was not appropriately certified and
licensed, he could pay a state fine and if it is a serious offense he could face jail time. How is the
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friendship going to be when your work cost a friend a huge penalty and jail time. Don't expect to
be invited to next years Christmas party!
Why do we choose a friend over a legitimate company? Trust! We use a friend because of
the trust factor. I have a guy I prefer to use for my carpentry work. I will use him for anything I
need around the house. Its not about getting a cheap price. Its because I trust him since I have
used him. Most people use a friend for trust reasons but only a few use a friend to cheat the
system and win by getting something for nothing. But are you? Quality can suffer with cheap
prices and you have very little retribution against cheap work even with a friend. It is easier to use
someone we know over a stranger. But how can you trust a company if have not used them
before?
The Misconception About
'Getting 3 Bids"
in the HVAC industry!
Old wise tale or old wives' tale (from www.yahoo.com .... something that a lot of people once
believed but has since been exposed as a myth.) says to "get three bids" before you buy
anything! In these busy times, people can't spend the time they used to waiting on a HVAC
contractor to fit them in, or worse, not even show up for an appointment.
But, why are you getting three bids? So you are not being taken advantage of and get what you
need and want! Yes. The modern day information age has a better solution.

Research and find the best company

Get a whole house energy audit and heat load analysis and a complete plan

Have one company, that you trust because of their online reviews, prepare at least 3 choices
to solve your problem. An ultimate package (if comfort and allergy protection was the only
concerns), a band aid solution (money or price is the only concern), and a compromise
package which blends the important items from both packages...
Any of these three choices will be far greater than you current HVAC system. Choices are the
future of all businesses.
If you are currently getting 3 bids from any of our competitors, discover a better more professional
way by calling me at Freedom Heating and Cooling at 205-444-4444.
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BASIC
CHAPTER 9: MAINTENANCE AFTER INSTALLATION
EQUIPMENT
STYLE
Heating Season Tune-ups Save Money, and Maybe Your Life
If it’s sweltering outside, the last thing you have in mind is cranking up the furnace. But cooler
temperatures are not far away. It’s time to schedule a heating season combustion adjustment,
professional cleaning and safety check.
Gas Furnace that is clean and safe for the long cold winter
An annual heating system “tune-up” is one of the best home maintenance investments you can
make. Homeowners who neglect it tend to pay the following penalties:

Fuel bills rise as much as 10-15% as a result of inefficient equipment operation. It’s like
having a fireplace that burns money. Our service technicians will perform a variety of tests to
measure the combustion efficiency of your system both before and after tuning it up.

Accelerated equipment wear. Annual maintenance extends equipment life as much as 5-10
years for your furnace.

Our long experience tells us that about 75% of all HVAC system repairs we do could have
been avoided with regular maintenance. Repairs cost a lot more than maintenance, and
breakdowns never happen at a convenient time.

Most important, annual heating inspections can save your life and those of your loved
ones. Small cracks in a heat exchanger or problems with the flue system could allow deadly
carbon monoxide gas to seep into your home. Dozens of people in the U.S. lose their lives
each year to these tragedies. Our trained service technicians know how to spot danger signs
in the system.

Modern HVAC systems are very sophisticated. Our well-equipped service technicians have
an array of electronic measuring devices and tools to properly service these units. You can
trust their professionalism and experience to do the job right.
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While heating inspections can be done at any time, early fall is the most popular time for most
home owners to schedule these visits. Many of our clients have their fall heating inspection done
as part of an annual service agreement. They receive priority in scheduling and discount pricing
for any repairs not covered by the agreement. A service agreement also is a good way to ensure
you don’t forget about scheduling heating system maintenance. We’ll remind you. If you are not
on our list, give us a call to ask how you can be included.
Beyond a certain point even the best maintenance cannot save an antiquated system. Efficiency
improvements over the last few decades have been so dramatic that if your furnace is more than
20 years old, it’s quite possible that it would make economic sense to replace your present
system even if it is still operating okay. Ask our service technician to perform an energy audit of
your home to see how many years of energy savings it would take to pay back the initial cost of a
new installation. Also ask about low-cost energy efficiency improvements that can be obtained
from devices such as automatic flue dampers and programmable setback thermostats or internet
compatible thermostats.
What is the Freedom Comfort Club?
The Freedom Comfort Club (FCC) Membership is different from a tune up. The tune-up consists
of a one time appointment. It does not come with the amenities
of the FCC membership. Manufacturers recommend you have your unit serviced every six months
to prevent your system from breaking down at the most inconvenient time. This is why we offer
our services to you in a package deal. Having your system serviced improves the efficiency and
life of your heating and cooling unit.
The Comfort Club Membership is a two tune up and cleanings per year agreement. You
will receive an additional 20 percent discount on parts and labor if any repairs are needed. All
Diagnostic Calls (even emergency calls) will receive a $50 discount from our current $89 price
(without Maintenance agreement.) You will never have to wonder if you will find some one to
help you if you have a membership. It places you in a top priority status with Freedom Heating
and Cooling. Your agreement is transferable. So if you move, be assured that it will follow you.
So feel comfortable knowing that we are here to help. You will not be charged any weekend or
overtime additional charges with this service agreement. There is 24 hour emergency and
weekend service at your fingertips, just dial 205-444-4444. Contact me if you are interested in
enrolling.
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BONUS: WATER HEATERS AND HOME ENHANCEMENTS
Tankless vs. Tank Water Heater
We hear the questions about tankless vs tank water heater from time to time. The latest question is
"which is better in Birmingham, Alabama?" The following are the advantages and disadvantage of
each.
Tankless Water Heater
Advantages: A tankless water heater never runs out of hot water. You do not have to wait for the
tank to reheat to use. Most are higher efficiency and will have less utility cost per gallon if hot water.
Disadvantages: Converting to a tankless water heater is more expensive than in a new construction
application. Gas piping may have to be resized. Vent piping typically has to be changed from a tank
water heater. Tankless water heaters can be more than double a tank water heater. A new tankless
water heater is about $2000 to $5000 depending on the application.
Tank Water Heater
Advantages: A tank water heater is simple to change out if there is a need for a new unit. A tank
water heater could be as low as $1000 if very little additional items are needed. Quick install; when
your tank water heater goes out, you want hot water again NOW! A tank water heater an be changed
in about 2-3 hours. A tank water heater will have higher utility cost to keep water hot even when no
one is needing it. A home owner who is not home often or a tank water heater in a retirement home,
could be running for weeks without any need. Therefore, how the home owner will use the water
heater is important.
Disadvantages: A tank water heater will often run out of hot water. Waiting for the tank water heater
to reheat is sometimes 30 to 45 minutes. A large family would have a difficult time letting everyone
have a hot shower. A tank water heater last about 10-15 years. A tankless water heater should last
20 plus years.
I hope this is helpful to you and we welcome your call if you are in need of a water heater repair or
replacement, tankless or tank water heater.
Electric Water Heater vs Gas Water Heater
We get the question of should I have an electric water heater or a gas water heater? There are
several advantages and disadvantages to each. The following is a quick and simple explanation
of the difference between an electric water heater vs gas water heater for consumers in
Birmingham Alabama.
Electric Water Heater
Advantage: One huge advantage in Birmingham, Alabama is Alabama Power will typically offer
a free electric water heater for anyone converting from gas to electric.
Disadvantages: Slow recovery time to heat fresh cold water. It could take 1 to 2 hours to fully
reheat a large electric water heater tank. A large electric circuit is required to be dedicated to an
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electric water heater. This could require an upgraded electrical panel to be installed. This would
greatly raise the price of a water heater installation.
Gas Water Heater
Advantages: Gas water heaters can quickly recover and reheat water so hot water can be used
again quickly.
Disadvantages: Gas water heaters must be vented to the outside. Years ago single wall vent
pipe was used. This is no longer meeting code, so a simple water heater replacement could
require the upgrade of your vent pipe to double wall B-type pipe. Gas water heaters have a
flame. This flame can be dangerous if a gas water heater is placed in a garage or storage
area. In fact, new codes require water heaters to be placed on an minimum 18 inch tall stand
when placed in a garage or an area where gasoline or other flammables could be stored. Call
your local permit office and ask the inspector for the requirements in your area.
One solution, which I have in my home, is to use a gas water heater as the primary water heater.
Then after the water is heated, it is dumped into an electric water heater to keep warm until
needed. My home has a 40 gallon gas and a 40 gallon electric installed in a utility closet. It is not
uncommon for my children to take 30 to 45 minutes showers and never complain of water getting
cold. This set up allows water to be heated as quick as it is used. We have never had a situation
where we have run out of hot water no matter how long a shower lasts. As my kids might say
"awesome"!
How Hot to Set Your Water Heater?
Water heater temperature settings of hot can be different for every person. However to be the most
energy-efficient, you should set the water heater so that you can take a shower with only hot
water. This could create a problem with not having enough hot water for a complete family. Most
people use the solution of turning the water heater up to a very high-level and mixing it with cold water
as it comes out of the faucet to make the water temperature comfortable. This is very wasteful as a
water heater will be heating water 24 hours a day to that high temperature. It might only need to be
extra hot for a one or two hour period each morning as a family gets ready.
Safety is another reason to set your water heater to a moderate level. If you have small children, you
should set your water heater to a maximum temperature that will not scald your kids. This will help
ensure your family is not injured from accidentally turning the cold water off first before turning the hot
water. Many children are harmed each year from scalding while taking a bath.
Having a large enough water heater to provide hot water to your family by using only hot water is the
best method. This saves on energy costs, and safety of your family. To find a proper setting may take
several adjustments. This could take several weeks to allow your water heater time to adjust to the
new lower temperature.
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Whole House Generators Can Keep You Out of Trouble
"I want a whole house generator to get me through the next tornado and hurricane season." I hear
this statement a lot so I thought I would share some things to consider as you plan your project.
Size:
Whole house generators basically come in sizes, ranging from
10-48 kilowatts. You determine your size based on the amount
of electricity your home consumes. The majority of newer
homes in the United States are built with 200-amp electrical
service. Older homes have a 100-amp panel. Go to your
breaker box and see the breaker at the top and see the rating
number. (Be careful, electricity is dangerous.) In other words,
the MAXIMUM amount of electricity your home can consume is
200-amps. In reality, it never really uses every amp of
electricity. On hot summer days, the air conditioner
consumes almost half of all electricity. At night, most homes barely use any. If you absolutely,
positively want to replace every, single amp, you’ll need a 48-kilowatt whole house system, which
generates all 200-amps of electricity. In most cases you can save significant dollars by choosing a
smaller model, which could still power the whole house with a little planning and load
balancing. Check the data specs to see what size AC the unit will start. (Startup of an air conditioner
takes a huge amount of energy compared to just running it.)
Phase
The vast majority of homes use 120/240-volt, single-phase electricity. Three-phase electricity is
designed for commercial applications, such as restaurants and banks. Don’t even consider
a commercial generator for a whole house application unless you truly have 3 phase in your home.
Speed or RPM's
1800 or 3600 RPMs. This is a little tough to explain but here I go. Electricity has a frequency to its
alternating current (AC). In the US and especially in Birmingham, Alabama where I am, AC current is
at 60 Hertz or 60 cycle per second. Europe operates on a different cycles (50 Hertz). To generate the
60 cycles per second you must turn the generator at a speed that is a multiple of 60 to produce this. A
generate made for Europe will not work in the US. (A least not without major modifications). Basically,
the engines on a 1800 RPM generator run at half the speed of other whole house generators. The
reduced speed consumes less fuel, makes less noise and wears less, resulting in less maintenance
and increased life span.
Enclosure
Just like air conditioners, natural gas or propane powered generators are fully enclosed to protect the
generator from the weather, rodents and everything else. Aluminum enclosures cost a little more, but
they also outlast their steel counterparts. If you live near the coast – where salty air is notorious for
corroding metal – consider an aluminum enclosure. The steel enclosed generators are little louder,
but they also cost less.
Why do you need a generator?
Consider your personal circumstances and the need for electricity. Are there health issues? Are you
willing to leave your home and go to a hotel or family's house if electricity is out for an extended
time? Some years we have little to no outages but other years we have gone weeks in some
areas. Do you have valuable items in your home that extreme cold or extreme heat would ruin?
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Paintings, furniture, antiques. If a heat spell came and your items were ruined due to lack of AC, it
would make the generator options look very cheap.
I hope this is a good start on your generator journey.
Ductless AC in Every Home Means Comfort and Savings.
Ductless technology is the fastest growing segment in the U.S. HVAC industry. While some home
owners might think of ductless systems as primarily single-zone installations, like for a sunroom or
addition, ductless systems are increasingly being used as a solution for a variety of multi-zone
installations.
Ductless Ac
To raise awareness of the wide variety of installation capabilities, Mitsubishi Electric US Cooling &
Heating Division (Mitsubishi Electric) has rolled out its Ductless on Every Job Campaign. Their goal is
to encourage home owners to consider ductless on every application by educating them on unique
scenarios where ductless can be a solution to a customer's need. With limitless installation
possibilities for ductless, Mitsubishi Electric is spreading the word that ductless technology can open
the doors for home owners to have the most comfort and savings.
Here are just a few cases where home owners can consider a ductless solution:
Older Homes. Because no ducts are required and the systems can be installed with little to no
demolition, ductless technology is especially beneficial for homes that were built before air
conditioning was widely available and contain no existing ductwork. A ductless system allows for the
preservation of the home's structure, including historic architectural details like high ceilings and
moldings.
Bonus Rooms, Additions, and Lofts. Often when homeowners add on to their existing homes, their
HVAC system isn't sized to accommodate this additional load. Ductless systems are an ideal
supplement to a home's existing HVAC system. With the new MXZ-5B system, you can cool or heat
up to five zones, which is ideal for larger additions and entire floors. At 42,000 Btu/h and 3.5 tons, no
other system on the market operates at this size and capacity.
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Empty Nesters. When the kids go off to college or move out of the house, there may not be as many
rooms being used. Empty nesters don't want to waste energy and money by cooling and heating
unoccupied areas of their home. The zoning capabilities of a ductless system give homeowners
individual control over the temperature in each room. You can turn off the units in the kids' rooms
when not needed and easily turn them back on again when they visit.
Cold Climates. Ideal for homes located in areas with cold and windy winter days, their exclusive
Hyper-Heating (H2i™) technology provides full heating capacity to minus 4 degrees Fahrenheit. The
advanced INVERTER compressor delivers precise amount of comfort to the zones as required. This
technology eliminates cold and hot spots and allows homeowners in the coldest of climates to live
comfortably in every room of their house, all year round.
These are just some of the many scenarios where a ductless solution can give contractors a
competitive edge.
Protect Yourself and Your Electronics From Lightning Strikes
Humans and animals have an ingrained fear of lightning – and with good reason. Lightning kills
hundreds of Americans each year. A single lightning strike can carry enough electricity to power 10
million homes for a month!
Being inside your home during a lightning storm is safer than being outside. Yet you are not
completely safe on the inside. Electricity can travel through various unprotected pathways inside the
home. Water is an especially good conductor of electricity, which is why you should avoid taking a
bath or shower while a storm rages outside. Also avoid using the telephone or touching the metal of
any electronic device when lightning is in the vicinity.
After your personal safety, you need to safeguard various electronic devices that are so much a part
of our modern way of life. A lightning strike on your home or even nearby can “fry” thousands of
dollars’ worth of home equipment in an instant. Here are some tips to help you avoid that.
Your best protection is to invest in a whole-house surge suppressor. This device protects everything
that’s plugged in, such as your refrigerator, stove, and other large appliances. This line of protection
spares you the hassle of using individual surge protectors all of your home.
If you are anticipating a storm, or see lighting nearby, unplug all power cords and cables. This isn’t
always possible, but if you are at home during a severe electrical storm, consider doing it for your
major electronic devices and appliances. Most lightning storms are short lived so they won’t be without
power for long.
Invest in high-quality surge protectors. (We can recommend and sell them to you.) Cheap surge
protectors may be okay for inexpensive electronic devices such as clocks, but you want maximum
protection for computers and other expensive electronic equipment. Not all power strips come with
surge protection and many that do have limited capacity.
In the event of a strike on your home, replace all surge protectors. Some high-end surge protectors
can withstand a lightning strike, but most will not offer protection against a second surge. You won’t
know that for sure until you’re hit by lightning again.
Obtain a universal power supply (UPS) for computers. If your power goes out, a UPS will keep your
computer powered long enough to shut it down properly. This will prevent potential data loss and
corruption in case of an abrupt shutoff. Use line-specific protectors for cable lines and phone cords.
Lightning can damage these even if the power source is protected.
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Make sure you have GFCI outlets installed in your kitchen and bathroom. These will protect you from
shock by automatically shutting down if in contact with water, or if an unsafe level of electricity is
running through it. If you have them installed already, have them checked during your yearly
inspection for full functionality.
Consider installing a backup generator system in case of power outages. This is especially important if
you depend on your computer or other electronics for your livelihood.
Make sure your home is well-grounded. Homes with lighting protection should at least have two
grounding rods, along with special terminals and connectors to route the surge to the ground and
avoid a fire.
Lightning is not the only electrical threat to your lives and property. Scientists warn against the
potential for catastrophic solar flares capable of knocking out major power grids. One event in 1859
nearly electrocuted some telegraph operators. Another solar storm in 1989 knocked out the power grid
for almost Canada’s entire Quebec province.
Our trained and licensed technicians can evaluate your home and recommend protection consistent
with your budget and your lifestyle. Spend a little money with us now to avoid thousands of dollars in
repair and replacement costs in the future.
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CONCLUSION
BASIC
EQUIPMENT
STYLE
So, what is the next step? There are many points to design the best heating and cooling system.
We are here to help you through this process. Don’t allow any air conditioning service guy to sell
you a part and leave you to pick up the pieces. Make sure the proper design process is followed
and you will be happy for many years. Remember as mentioned in a previous articles, you will
have to keep your HVAC system for many years and if you are not happy you can not trade it in
like you can a car.
Call us at 205-444-4444 and a trained comfort advisor will be glad to assist you in this design and
upgrade process.
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9 Steps to Building the Ultimate HVAC System

Transcription

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