PDF - Denim Club India
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PDF - Denim Club India
03 Sep 2015 LA based Co partners with Francois Girbaud Genetic Denim Has a New Owner Mobley Denim making jeans for men with trendy old-school technique Freitag to Launch World’s First 100% Compostable Denim Jeans Beauty denim fabrics by Lycra to launch in autumn Jimmy Taverniti appointed as Creative Director of Siwy Denim Losses of American Apparel are H&M’s gains FIGI Jeans New Collection Blends Style and Comfort BLANKNYC Blue Blends (India) Limited, India Denim Industry Who’s Who Mr. Balaji Desai, Dystar India Pvt. Ltd., India Mr. Mr. Manohar Samuel, Birla Cellulose, India F/W 2015 Women’s Lookbook Premium Cushion Covers SPECIALLY CRAFTED FOR THE DENIM LOVERS WHO CARE Made from 100% Cotton, soft, comfortable hand-loomed fabric. Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Apparel - Lookbook BLANKNYC F/W 2015 Women’s Lookbook Since entering the scene in 2007 with their very first hit, the Studded Skinnie Classique, BLANKNYC has been creating obsessionworthy fits, fabrics and design details, season after season. Blank NYC has given denim a new explanation and the brand's new collection for fall/winter 2015 is is super cute, resourceful, and easy to wear. The collection is complete in all aspects and covers the various popular trends and styles. There is not one single denim style missing: flares, skinnies, straight, ripped, clean… all are included in the collection. The BLANKNYC denim revolution stands for quality, fit, and the integrity of a premium jean, while maintaining a completely affordable price point. A few highlights from their amazing new collection are the textured vegan leather leggings “Wake Up Call”, that already has a fan – Gigi Hadid. A reversible bomber jacket that is solid black on one side and features green camo-inspired print on the other, the “Side Piece”. There are the high waisted flares, “Kale Yeah”, and “Lies and Alibis”. And for the first time BLANKNYC is offering real suede, the “Brohemian Rhapsody” jacket. Source : Denimology.com Image Source:Denimology.com Image Source:Denimology.com Image Source:Denimology.com Image Source:Denimology.com Image Source:Denimology.com Image Source: Uniqlo.com Source : Lipstiq.com Sep 2015 DENIM CLUB INDIA 03 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Apparel - Corporate LA based Co partners with Francois Girbaud Designers of the emerging L.A.-based women's wear label Co, Stephanie Danan and Justin Kern, have partnered with French jeans vet Francois Girbaud of the now-defunct Marithe+Francois Girbaud to create their first denim line. The styles break the basic rules of jeans selling: The jeans do not have stretch, and are made from completely raw, unwashed denim. But they stay true to Co's dressed-up sensibility with couture-inspired volume and a crisp fabrication. The debut offerings, for fall, are in stores now and include high-waist, flared trousers slit at the backs of the ankles to reveal the heel of a great shoe and create a bit of sway when the wearer walks. A denim jacket gets a sophisticated spin with a sculpted peplum construction and shiny gold buttons down the front. In coming seasons, Co plans to introduce cropped denim sailor pants and denim knickers with ruffled accents. Danan, a former producer, and Kern, a former screenwriter and fashion model, launched Co in 2011. Since then, the label has earned a reputation for elegant, pared-down separates in the spirit of the Row, but more romantic. Business is on the rise, they say, with sales increasing 300% in the last year. And distribution of the collection has expanded to 74 stores worldwide, including Maxfield, Net-a-Porter, Barneys, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. Danan has known Girbaud since she was a 16year-old growing up in Montreal. After pioneering stonewashing in the 1970s, his Marithe+Francois Girbaud brand went international. Danan's father, who owned a multilabel showroom, distributed it in North America, and Girbaud was a frequent guest at the family's dinner table. Image Source: Trbimg.com Image Source: Iamabiker.com which a lot of brands do, either based on a rock 'n' roll or worker aesthetic that is then sold separately [from the main collection]."We wanted to do a more sophisticated jean that's less casual that would be at home on the designer floor." Girbaud was thrilled to work with two denim newbies. "No rules — that was interesting," he says. "Everyone told us we couldn't sell jeans without stretch. But it makes women look like sausages. No stretch!" Danan says. "Girls want to go back to the 1970s … using pliers to pull up their zippers because they were so strapped in," Kern insists. Girbaud was also pleased that the designers wanted to use raw, unwashed denim, because it highlights his latest crusade to try to reverse the environmental damage stonewashing has wrought over the last 40 years. "When I started in 1989 talking about saving water, nobody was interested," he says. "Now it's not just talking. We have to do it. The price of the water, the energy, we have to save. And all the people in the factories, we know permanganate [an oxidizing agent used in the washing and bleaching process] causes disease." The relationship was rekindled when Girbaud moved to Los Angeles two years ago. Andrew Rosen, the New York apparel investor who has a minority stake in Co, suggested Danan and Kern develop denim to grow their brand. And who better to help than Girbaud? Then, he gets philosophical. "When we started in fashion in the 1960s, it was just a reaction against the system. We wanted to destroy everything — including jeans — and annoy adults. We didn't realize it was so negative." According to Danan they we were nervous at first because it was such a different way of designing, but is thankful to have a major mentor. Kern said "The goal was not just to launch a denim line, Now Girbaud is devoting his days to developing new techniques and machinery to wash and destroy denim, including laser printers that can do something he calls "watt wash." Source : Latimes.com Sep 2015 DENIM CLUB INDIA 04 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Apparel - Corporate Genetic Denim Has a New Owner The Los Angeles premium jeans label Genetic Denim, was recently acquired by a small investment group that brought in veteran apparel executive Hubert Guez to help turn the company around. The acquisition price was not disclosed. Genetic Denim was launched in 2007 by Ali Fatourechi, who crafted a high-end denim pant that sold in the $200 price range at luxury stores such as Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Barneys New York and Bloomingdale’s. Last year, Genetic Denim had partnered with model Liberty Ross to launch a capsule collection called Genetic x Liberty Ross. Millionaire record mogul Jimmy Iovine and Hard Rock Café cofounder Peter Morton has also invested in the company last year. The new owners of Genetic Denim plan to continue to sell the brand at high-end stores but with a retail price point that will be around $150. All the jeans and denim pieces will be manufactured in a sewing factory in South Los Angeles, using the same quality denim fabric that was employed before. “The brand has an excellent reputation for fit, sexiness and the fabrics are soft,” Guez said. “We are going to continue the same fabrication and add some new technical fabrics.” The new owners hope to capitalize on domestic production and turn goods quickly to keep up with fashion trends. Guez has a long history of manufacturing jeans and other apparel. In 1991, he started Azteca Production International, which made blue jeans in Mexico for a number of American labels until Azteca closed in 2005. He was also chief executive of Ed Hardy from 2008 to 2012, working with Christian Audigier, who started the label. The label was later sold to Iconix Brand Group. Guez’s brother, Paul Guez, launched Sasson jeans in the 1980s. His other brother, Gerard Guez, started Tarrant Apparel Group, which later became Sunrise Brands. Hubert Guez was CEO of Sunrise Brands from 2012 to 2014 Source : Apparelnews.net Mobley Denim making jeans for men with trendy old-school technique Mobley Denim, a new company based in Dallas has designed jeans for men who appreciate quality textiles, great design and a made-inAmerica ethos. The Mobley Denim line is distinguished by its use of selvedge denim, an old-fashioned high-quality technique in which the fabric is woven all the way to edges, so it's less likely to fray. Andrew Mobley, Founder says "No crazy stitching, no crazy back pocket designs, we wanted to keep it very classic and simple." Mobley is one of a number of companies beginning to embrace selvedge denim. It harkens Sep 2015 DENIM CLUB INDIA 05 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Fibre - Corporate producing cheaper jeans. Mobley is prcurring its selvedge denim from industry legend Cone Denim Mills in North Carolina, which has been making denim since 1891. The jeans are then stitched together in Los Angeles. The jeans have a conservative slim fit, tapered enough to give a tailored look, but not skin-tight. There’s extra room for comfort; you can carry your keys in one pocket and your phone in another without compromise. Images Source: Liveeco.co.za back to a time before the 1950s when denim was made differently: on shuttle looms that created one-yard-wide strips of fabric, with woven edges that prevented fraying or curling up on the edges. W h e n j e a n s b e c a m e m o r e p o p u l a r, manufacturers like Levis switched to machines that output wider width fabric for a lower cost, Mobley launched the company via a Kickstarter campaign that raised over $15,000, but for now sales are on-line only. Prices are on par with or slightly cheaper than the designer equivalent; a pair of jeans is $170, and a denim hat is $55. A Dallas native, Mobley felt it important to be headquartered here. "We want to become a brand that represents Dallas," he says. "It's a cool place and a great location for young people and young brands." Source : Culturemap.com Beauty denim fabrics by Lycra to launch in autumn Invista had recently showcased the latest Lycra Beauty branded shaping fabrics in New York and the first garments using Lycra Beauty branded denim fabrics will launch this autumn. Invista had showcased the latest Lycra Beauty branded shaping fabrics from around the world as well as also showed the latest performance offerings with Coolmax and Thermolite fabrics, including new options for the boyfriend jean using lastingFIT technology by Lycra. According to Jean Hegedus, Invista's global business director for denim, response to the Lycra Beauty branded denim fabric has been strong. "Today we have over 200 certified Lycra Beauty branded denim fabrics and the first garments will appear at retail later this fall. By sourcing fabrics that meet Lycra beauty quality standards, brands and retailers have the tools to develop garments that provide comfortable shaping, resulting in a high degree of consumer satisfaction." An Invista study earlier this year conducted by Strategic Insights showed more than 80% of women across the US, UK, France, Germany and Italy were interested in purchasing denim Image Source: Lycra.com garments that could shape or enhance their body, and wanted the denim fabric itself to do the shaping rather than wearing a shaping undergarment with their jeans. To help address these needs, Invista employed a scientific process and body scanning technology to determine the ability of a fabric to provide comfortable shaping. Based on months of testing, the fibre maker developed fabric quality standards. Garments made with fabrics that pass these standards are eligible to carry the Lycra Beauty logo or hang-tag. Source: Just-style.com Sep 2015 DENIM CLUB INDIA 06 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Apparel - Industry Losses of American Apparel are H&M’s gains Image Source: Iamabiker.com rates and nond e p e n d a b l e employment, and more of them work on contract. They are saddled with student debt. If they can find fashions for less, they will spend less so they can spend more on things such as consumer electronics, which have become a priority, said Atkinson. But while American Apparel and other branded retailers like it are floundering, H&M and Zara are going gangbusters by keeping prices low by operating as efficiently as possible while also providing upto-the-minute fashion. Image Source: Casuallysmart.com According to retail analysts the wilting fortunes of clothing brands such as American Apparel are connected to struggling millennials, having more debt and more precarious employment than previous generations. Expressing his opinion brand expert and retail consultant George Minakakis says “A lot of millennials don’t have full-time jobs — a lot of them are working two jobs and part time. They tend to be a little more frugal. It’s driving a lot of change in the marketplace.” Simply put, millennials don’t have the money to pay for premium or branded clothing — they need to spend as little as possible on their apparel, which is boosting the fortunes of lowcost, fast-fashion retailers H&M and Zara. Maureen Atkinson, senior partner at global retail advisers J.C. Williams Group says “There was this model where it was all about having the logo. That seems to have just kind of evaporated." The stock value of American Apparel plunged this week after it reported a net loss of $19.4 million (U.S.) and a 17-per-cent decline in revenue in its most recent quarter. “The customer that they had has kind of outgrown them, and they haven’t seemed to have been able to hit on that next generation or age group,” said Atkinson. Recent research done by Atkinson's firm has done into the millennial customer base confirmed that they have lower employment “We achieve the best price for our customers by having in-house designers, having no middlemen, buying in large volumes, having efficient logistics, buying the right products for the right markets and being cost-conscious at every stage,” said H&M Canada spokeswoman Emily Scarlett. “H&M is both importer and retailer, so it maintains full control over every link in the supply chain from supplier to store.” Lead time for garments varies, she added. Orders are placed well in advance for highvolume basics, as are the orders for the company’s annual fashion collections. Trendier garments are turned around more quickly. According to Scarlett H&M Canada is doing so well that it is about to launch the largest recruitment campaign in its history, which will launch on Sept. 3. According to data from Statistics Canada, the rate of summer employment among Canadian youth has also declined in recent years meaning less pocket money for teenagers. In July, just over half - 50.8 per cent - of Canadian youth were not participating in the workforce. In July 2005, that figure was 46.8 per cent; it was 46 per cent in July 1985. Source : Thestar.com Sep 2015 DENIM CLUB INDIA 07 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Apparel - Ecofriendly Freitag to Launch World’s First 100% Compostable Denim Jeans Freitag is launching the world’s first 100 percent compostable denim jeans as part of its “F-abric” line of European-grown and-produced w o r k w e a r, t h e u p c o m i n g f i v e - p o c k e t design—dubbed the “E500″— is entirely cottonfree, comprising 81 percent linen and 19 percent hemp in a 19-ounce weight for men and a 17 ounce for women. According to the Zurich, Switzerland-based firm which is best known for making bags out of repurposed truck tarpaulinit this is a material that is “like no other in the fashion and textile world,” According to the company the jeans contain neither rivets nor nylon thread and each pair is 100 percent compostable—at least once the metal buttons are unscrewed and reused, Image Source: Liveeco.co.za reinforced selvage and lap seams to withstand heavy wear. Another benefit of the bast material? “The moisture- and thermo-regulating, antibacterial and antisynthetic fibers make them more comfortable to wear,” Freitag adds. Like the rest of the F-abric range, the denim conforms to the strictest of Oeko-Tex standards, which tests textile products for harmful substances in all stages of their production. “No one likes to wear toxic clothing,” Freitag said at the launch of F-abric in November. Freitag will debut men’s version in stores on August 27, with the women’s following suit on October 1. Available in dark blue and black, the jeans offer Source : Liveeco.co.za Jimmy Taverniti appointed as Creative Director of Siwy Denim Denim designer Jimmy Taverniti has joined the famous denim brand Siwy as creative director and the first collection under Ta v e r n i t i ’ s direction will be Spring/Summer 2016. Talking about the appontment Alain LaFourcade, chief operating officer of Siwy, in a company statement said “We are excited to have a man who really can create something that’s never existed. Taverniti is a true visionary—and not just with denim. He is well versed in all fabric textures/techniques and is a master of his craft. He is here to invest in Siwy’s future.” Taverniti is known for his Los Angeles–based premium-denim line, Taverniti So, which he launched in 2004. “He has solidified a strong foundation that resonates with the Siwy customer,” LaFourcade said. The French-born, Southern California–based Taverniti built his own brand with a feminine, vintage-chic aesthetic that extends beyond denim to include cotton, viscose, silk and Sep 2015 DENIM CLUB INDIA 08 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Apparel - Collection leather. At Taverniti So, the designer pioneered wash and finishing effects using indigo, natural pigments, discoloration and organic dye. Taverniti said “This is a great opportunity for me to work with Siwy and their team of denim experts. Their respect for their workers, using environmentally friendly washes and the belief in luxury craft are completely in sync with mine. I’m looking forward to elevating Siwy in a modern and ethical way.” Los Angeles–based Siwy launched in 2005 and features vintage-inspired, fashion-forward denim designs with an emphasis on fit, finishing and details that “infus[e] the LA–dominated denim category with a heavy dose of New York attitude,” the company said. Source : Apparelnews.net FIGI Jeans New Collection Blends Style and Comfort Wearing jeans have become the American way, you can wear them to work, on a date or to an event and it is totally acceptable and to be a real American means to have a wardrobe of awesome jeans. From Joe’s Jeans to Old Navy, all designers are creating their own spin on the denim jeans. And quite frankly, your favorites probably depend on your body and your wallet. American made FIGI jeans are comfortable while still being stylish. Young without being childish and sexy without being trashy. They are made with a stretch denim fabric that gives in all the right places and still holds tight where it’s supposed to. Image Source:Themalaymailonline.com FIGI jeans has two basic fits, the Muse Fit, Image Source: Monstersandcritics.com skinny from the hips to the ankles and the Artist Fit, akin to the girlfriend jean. Muse Fit because shows all the curves while fitting comfortably on the hip. Even after a days wear there are no signs of over-stretching. Image Source: Monstersandcritics.com For their latest collection Figi jeans creative director and designer, Diane Carleton, teamed up with John Rossi, an American artist known for his use of recycled bits and pieces to make art, basically showing how objects evolve through time. This translated to the FIGI brand they took their old jeans and evolved them into pieces of art. By laser printing Rossi’s designs of the soft light-weight twill, they have added flair without being shocking and have thus made wearable art. Source : Monstersandcritics.com Sep 2015 DENIM CLUB INDIA 09 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim From The Denim Directory Denim Industry Who's Who Mr. Balaji Desai, President South Asia & Managing Director Dystar India Pvt. Ltd., India Mr. Balaji Desai holds a Bachelor Degree in Science and Technology from Bombay University Department of Chemical Technology (UDCT) and completed his Masters in Management with specialisation in Entrepreneurship & Strategy Management. Mr. Desai started his career in Production Department but moved on to Sales & Marketing after a couple of years. He has over 23 years of experience in sales and marketing of different types of chemicals including Surfactants, Specialty Chemicals & Functional Chemicals and Dyes & Pigments. He has worked with renowned companies including WIPRO, Bombay Oil Inds Pvt Ltd, Mafatlal Dyes & Chemicals Ltd, Ciba India Limited and Aquapharm Chemicals Pvt Limited. Mr. Desai handled International Business for different regions while at Aquapharm and headed the entire Business Line for South Asia at Ciba India, where he worked for 10 years. Mr. Desai is currently working with DyStar, one of the Global Leader in Dyes & Chemicals for Textile Industry, as the Managing Director for India & President South Asia including countries having Textile as a prominent Industry - India, Pakistan, Bangladesh & Sri Lanka. Mr. Manohar Samuel, Joint President Birla Cellulose, India Mr Manohar Samuel is currently President – Marketing & Business Development at Birla Cellulose, Pulp and Fibre Division of The Aditya Birla Group, a USD 41 billion conglomerate. He has been in the Man Made Fibre industry for the past 28 years, spread over Viscose, Polyester, Acrylic, Nylon, Cupro and Polypropylene Fibres. He has travelled widely and has shared fibre developments and its benefits across the textile value chain in many international forums. He has been instrumental is setting up the Group’s Textile Research and Application Development Centre (TRADC) which is a one stop solution provider for the Textile Industry. Mr. Samuel has been actively engaged in various task forces for the Textile Industry. Coconvener for Tech Textiles in the Government’s National Fibre Policy, Co-chair of Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FICCI) for Medical textiles, Team Member for Textile Industry Committee for 12th R&D Councils, etc are some. Sep 2015 DENIM CLUB INDIA 10 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim From The Denim Directory Company: Blue Blends (India) Limited, India Segment: Fabric Blue Blends (India) Limited forayed into the manufacturing of denim fabric in 1995. Mr. Anand Arya, Founder and Chairman-cumManaging Director of the Group is a first generation industrialist and has shown phenomenal drive as well as caliber to put Blue Blends on the pedestal of growth. Today Blue Blends has made a name and place for itself along with the leading Textiles’ manufacturers of the country. The company has a composite Denim Mill with and installed production capacity of 18 million meters per annum. The company has control over the entire manufacturing process, starting from fiber processing to finished Denim Fabrics. Blue Blends envisages a very bright future for the company in the WTO’s “Quota-Free” world.The company aims at continuously working for achievement of “economies of scale” and is working towards transform Blue Blends into a fully integrated (Fiber to Apparels) Fashion Textiles’ Company. The manufacturing unit of the company is located at Piplej, in the outskirts of Ahmedabad, and has a state-of-the-art plant for producing Denim fabrics based on slasher dyeing technology and air-jet weaving machines. Blue Blends employs latest equipments and utilize best technology to achieve their objective of producing internationally competitive quality in all the areas. The company has an experienced team of fabric designers & development engineers who work around the clock, in tandem with the marketing team which provides inputs on current trends, to develop products with appealing designs and attractive quality. Blue Blends, is constantly innovating to serve their customers with the right mix of products. The company has clients spread across India, besides having overseas clients located in Spain, Portugal, Greece, Italy, Turkey, Israel, U.S.A., Bangladesh, Guatemala, Columbia, Venezuela and other Central American countries. Mr. Ravi Shanker Singh Business Head - Denim Division rssingh@blueblends.com +91 79 2562 2141 www.blueblends.com Sep 2015 DENIM CLUB INDIA 11