Bolting a 200-series rear tire on a Road King, Part I

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H R I S
M
A I D A
CUSTOM VALLEY
WIDE TIRE KIT
Bolting a 200-series rear tire on a Road King, Part I
n AS ATTESTED TO BY THE MANY E-MAILS WE’VE BEEN GETTING
Custom Valley. This way, the H-D service
manuals can be followed exactly, which
means any H-D mechanic can install the
kit and service the bike after it’s installed.
That makes this a great kit for owners or
H-D dealerships to install.
As for who would do the deed, Denis
Desrosiers, the owner and head designer
at Custom Valley, drove down to KC
Choppers, our buddy Rod Kay’s shop, and
did the entire installation. The accompanying photos show you what Denis had to
do to upgrade the tranny and primary system. Next month, we’ll show what needs
to be done to the chassis.
PHOTOS BY JOE KNEZEVIC
over the last few years, bagger owners want to install a big rear
meat on their bike, just like the Softail and Dyna guys do. Well,
our Canadian buddies at Custom Valley have heard your complaints, riders of the big rigs, and have spent the last year
answering the call for an easy-to-install, complete wide-tire kit
for the bagger crowd.
That’s right! The good folks at CV now offer a 200 wide-tire
kit for all Touring model Harleys that’s just as well thought out as
the one we bolted up on a Softail a few years back. And here’s the
best part: You don’t have to cut off any frame components. In
fact, you don’t have to cut anything and still run the stock shocks,
bags, etc. This kit comes complete with all the additional brackets, spacers, extensions, etc. you need to get a fat tire out back.
This kit follows all the stock OEM parts, even the ones made by
2
1
Our opening shot shows the primary and rear section of the
bike removed and the tranny disassembled. The tranny case is
still in the bike with the shifter pawl assembly installed.
158 • AMERICAN IRON MAGAZINE • SEPTEMBER 2005
After installing a new main bearing
(#8996A) into the tranny case, Denis
uses one of Rod’s tools to install the
new Custom Valley (CV) drive gear,
which is 0.987" longer than the stock
one.
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Another mainshaft second gear thrust
washer goes on next, followed by
another new retaining ring (#11067).
The mainshaft spacer, the one with the
shoulder, goes on last. The shoulder
should fit inside the mainshaft fourth
gear recess.
After installing a new main seal
(#12067A) and quad seal (#11165) into
the case, Denis slips on the stock
spacer, followed by the CV-supplied
spacer, which is 0.987" wide.
10
7
He can now start reassembling the
gearset by installing a new split
bearing (#8876A), followed by a new
retaining ring (#11067), onto the new
CV-supplied mainshaft.
5
Next on is the mainshaft second gear
thrust washer (arrow), followed by
mainshaft second gear. Note the
orientation of the gear.
➲
4
The mainshaft first gear can now go on
as shown, followed by another retaining
ring (#11067).
While Denis was assembling the
mainshaft, Rod replaced both trapdoor bearings (#8992), complete
with two new retaining rings
(#35087-99), using a press and
supports.
160 • AMERICAN IRON MAGAZINE • SEPTEMBER 2005
8
After slipping a new split bearing
(#8876A) onto the CV mainshaft, another thrust washer goes on, followed by
the mainshaft fourth gear, orientated
as shown.
11
Denis then presses the justassembled mainshaft into the
tranny’s trapdoor with a press
and the proper supports.
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12
Denis can now group together the
countershaft first gear, countershaft
fourth gear, and countershaft (end)
spacer as shown.
16
13
He then positions them on the trapdoor as shown. Note that the spacer
is on the bottom, against the
trapdoor bearing.
14
After installing a new split bearing
(#8876A) onto the countershaft (you
can still use the old retaining ring
since it wasn’t removed), Denis slips
on a countershaft thrust washer.
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Denis can now slip the countershaft
into the gear cluster he assembled
in photo 13. Slip the two gears up
onto the countershaft to make sure
the teeth are aligned.
After making sure the countershaft
is aligned with the spacer and trapdoor bearing, Denis presses the
countershaft into the trapdoor with
a press and some supports.
To finish the countershaft assembly,
Denis slips on the countershaft third
gear as shown, followed by another
retaining ring (#11067).
18
A split bearing (#8876A) goes on
next, followed by another countershaft thrust washer.
19
The countershaft second gear, which
goes on as shown, gets slipped onto
the countershaft next.
20
The new countershaft fifth gear,
which is supplied by Custom Valley,
goes on as shown, followed by
another retaining ring (#11067). Do
not use the stock fifth gear.
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With a new gasket on the trapdoor
(you can use a small amount of
grease to hold the gasket in place),
Denis slides the assembled gearset
into the tranny case.
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24
He then bolts the trapdoor into
place using the stock hardware.
Denis uses a 3/16" Allen to torque
the bolts to 13-16 ft-lbs. He also
installs the exhaust bracket using
a 1/4" Allen. These bolts go to
7-9 ft-lbs.
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25
He then tightens the shaft nuts
using a 1-1/8" socket, torquing
them to 45-55 ft-lbs. (Note: Move
two gears together inside the
tranny to lock the shafts before
you torque the nuts.)
28
The stock shifter forks and shaft
can then go back into the tranny as
shown. Note the orientation of the
shifter forks. Each one is different
so don’t mix them up.
➲
23
21
The mainshaft second gear can now
be slipped onto the mainshaft as
shown.
22
To finish the gearset, Denis slips a
stock spacer onto each shaft, followed by a new nut (#35078-79). He
will torque the nuts to spec once
the gearset is installed into the
case.
164 • AMERICAN IRON MAGAZINE • SEPTEMBER 2005
The CV spacer that fits between the
tranny and inner primary cover goes
in next. This dowel pin (arrow) must
be installed first. Note: We got our
spacer chromed, but they come in
plain aluminum.
After the stock pulley is installed
onto the mainshaft, Denis torques
the reverse thread nut using a JIMS
94660-37A tool. (Note: Move two
gears together inside the tranny to
lock the shafts.)
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The tranny end cover can now go
back on, with a new gasket and the
stock hardware, using a 3/16" Allen.
Torque the bolts to 7-9 ft-lbs.
After checking that the tranny shifts
smoothly, with a new gasket in
place, Denis bolts on the top cover
using a 3/16" Allen, torquing the
bolts to 7-9 ft-lbs. He then
reattaches the neutral switch wires.
36
After installing a new O-ring on the
engine case, Denis installs the
Custom Valley engine primary cover
spacer onto the engine.
He then installs the stock locking
plate and hardware using a little
red Loctite and a 3/16" Allen,
torquing the bolts to 7-9 ft-lbs.
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30
After moving the shifter forks so
the shifter assembly sits flat on the
tranny and the forks are in their
slots, Denis bolts the shifter down
using a 7/16" socket and the stock
hardware.
The mainshaft race can then be
installed onto the mainshaft until its
outer face is 2.87" away from the
outer end of the mainshaft.
The shifter assembly can now be
installed onto the tranny by lifting
the shifter pawl out of the way and
placing the shifter assembly onto
the tranny.
166 • AMERICAN IRON MAGAZINE • SEPTEMBER 2005
34
He can now snake the rear belt
through the frame as shown, wrapping it around the pulley. Be careful
not to bend the belt too much or
you’ll damage it, causing it to break
under load.
37
After installing a new O-ring on the
CV spacer, and slipping the shifter
arm into the inner primary cover,
reinstall the inner primary using the
CV hardware and a 1/2" socket.
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Next on is the Custom Valley
extended starter coupler, which
must be slipped onto the starter
with the beveled end facing out
towards the clutch.
39
Denis can now bolt in the stock
starter and exhaust pipe bracket
using the supplied longer CV bolts.
A 1/4" Allen will do the trick. Then
reconnect the starter wire using a
12mm wrench.
40
The stock jackshaft can now be
installed using the CV-supplied
longer bolt. Use a 5/16" wrench
here, and don’t forget to bend
over the locking tab.
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44
The stock compensator sliding cam
and sprocket cover, followed by the
extended CV sprocket nut, can now
go in. A 1-1/2" socket and some red
Loctite will do the trick here. Torque
the nut to 150-165 ft-lbs.
45
The clutch nut can then go on using
a 1-3/16" socket. Torque the nut to
70-80 ft-lbs.
46
The primary chain tension is then
adjusted and the bolt is tightened
using a 9/16" socket. You should
also attach the shifter linkage rod
at this time.
The CV-supplied longer clutch
rod goes into the center of the
mainshaft next.
42
The Custom Valley compensating
shaft extension can now go onto
the engine shaft.
43
The engine sprocket, primary chain,
and clutch assembly can all be
slipped onto their respective shafts
as an assembly.
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CUSTOM VALLEY
WIDE TIRE KIT
Bolting a 200-series rear tire on a Road King, Part II
n Last month, we showed you how to reassemble your trans-
ly, which means any H-D mechanic can
install the kit and service the bike afterwards. That makes this a great kit for owners or H-D dealerships to use.
Denis Desrosiers, the owner and head
designer at Custom Valley, drove down
to KC Choppers, our buddy Rod Kay’s
shop, and did the entire installation. The
paintwork on the new Custom Valley rear
fender was handled by Tom Beckwith of
Moore Bros. Body & Paint. Our new allbillet aluminum rear wheel is from the
good folks at Precision Metal Fab
Racing, while the new rubber is compliments of Metzeler. That said, the accompanying photos show you what Denis
had to do in this, Part II, of this upgrade.
We’ll finish the build in the November
issue.
PHOTOS BY BOB FEATHER
mission with the new Custom Valley longer mainshaft and
other extended parts to offset the primary system and transmission sprocket. This modification is needed to clear the wider
rear tire setup that we’re going to show you how to install this
time around. The kit’s builders are our Canadian buddies at
Custom Valley. Long known for its 200 and wider tire kits for
Softails, CV has now come out with a 200 kit for all Touring
model Harleys that’s just as well thought out as its Softail kits.
This kit comes complete with all the additional brackets, spacers, extensions, etc., you need to get a fat tire out back, except for
the new rear wheel, new rear tire, and new 1-1/8" drive belt. And
here’s the best part about this upgrade: You don’t have to cut off
any frame components. In fact, you don’t have to cut anything,
and, yet, you can still run the stock shocks, bags, etc. This kit follows all the stock OEM parts, even the ones made by Custom
Valley. This way, the H-D service manuals can be followed exact-
2
1
Our opening shot shows our Road King with the transmission,
drive belt, and primary reinstalled, ready for Denis to bolt up
the rear section.
142 • AMERICAN IRON MAGAZINE • OCTOBER 2005
Denis begins by pressing the two H-D
tolerance rings (#47538-79) and bushing assemblies (#47556-81) into each
side of the CV swingarm. (We painted
ours first.) Don’t reuse the old ring and
assembly.
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Using a 5/16"-24 Heli-Coil kit, Denis
taps the four existing holes at the
end of the frame rails. He then
installs a 5/16"-24 Heli-Coil insert
into each tapped hole.
31
After jacking the bike up, Denis
slips the fender into place. Be sure
to bring the fender in from behind
and align the two rails before rotating it forward and into position.
Denis now installs the CV fender
mounting boss (#58786-01), CV
fender mounting washer (#5978801), and 1/2" hex nut (CV#701-18) to
the CV rear fender blank.
TIPS & TRICKS
CUSTOMERS WITH 2003 AND OLDER TOURING BIKES NEED TO
switch to the thinner 2004 pulley. Those with 2004 and later models can
reuse the stock pulley.
When inserting the pivot shaft into the swingarm and tranny mount,
use a small jack to move the drivetrain and align the holes to get the
shaft through.
When bolting the two rear swingarm brackets to the frame, make sure
the small pins line up with the holes in the rubber mount.
The owner of our test bike wanted to use a stock H-D pulley, so Denis
had to mill 0.200" off the mounting surface of a stock Dyna 1-1/8" pulley.
The left full-length touring shock on this bike doesn’t have enough
clearance between its boot and the pulley, so it must be removed, and
the upper portion of the boot is pulled back, so the edge can be
trimmed off, leaving a thinner edge to the boot.
When installing the Custom Valley fender mounting boss and hardware to the CV rear fender blank, be sure to align the square part of the
nut and the square of the boss.
After the fender has been painted, you may need to carefully remove
any excess paint or filler from the fender’s mounting holes before
installing it.
When installing the left and right CV fender mounting brackets, these
must go inside the fender but outside the stock frame rail tab. A 3/16"
Allen bolt and washer goes on the inside, while a 1/2" bolt and washer
go on the outside. One goes through the stock frame rail and CV mounting bracket, while the other goes through the CV bracket and fender.
n
154 • AMERICAN IRON MAGAZINE • OCTOBER 2005
Denis installs the CV left and right
(they’re different) frame rail extenders, and then bolts them up using
only the forward boltholes that were
heli-coiled and a 3/16" Allen.
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The fender support plate is installed
next. Each side has two bolts that
require a 3/16" wrench. The fender
mounting screw is then screwed
into the fender mounting boss
using a 1/2" wrench.
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The left and right CV fender mounting brackets need to go inside the
fender but outside the stock frame
rail tab. A 3/16" Allen bolt and
washer go on the inside, while a
1/2" bolt and washer go on the
outside.
38
Once the CV custom rear fender is
back from the painter, Moore Bros.
Body & Paint, Denis installs the CV
LED custom taillight assembly inside
the CV fender.
41
This bike has a driver backrest, so
Denis installs the mounting bracket
for it on the inside of the fender and
tightens the plastic well nut. AIM
SOURCES
39
36
Denis now installs the left and right
CV strut cover and tightens the two
bolts — one on each side -- with a
3/16" Allen.
Once the CV taillight is in the
proper position in the fender, Denis
uses a commercial glue gun to seal
the edges. Use some masking tape
to keep glue from getting to the
fender.
CUSTOM VALLEY
282-A St. Jacques Nord
Dept. AIM
Causapscal, Quebec G0J 1J0
418/756-6417
www.CustomValley.com
KC CHOPPERS
135 Pearl Street, Dept. AIM
Port Chester, NY 10573
914/939-4048
www.KCchoppers-Harley.com
METZELER MOTORCYCLE TYRE, NA
See your local Metzeler dealer
www.US.MetzelerMoto.com
MOORE BROS. BODY & PAINT
Route 100 North, Dept. AIM
Wilmington, VT 05363
802/464-7770
www.MooreBrosAutoBody.com
37
There needs to be 0.100" clearance
between the CV fender and strut
cover, so when the parts are painted
they will not rub. The fender is then
removed and sent out for paint.
www.AmericanIronMagazine.com
40
After the glue has set, Denis
removes the masking tape and runs
the taillight wiring the length of the
fender using the tabs that are part
of the fender.
PRECISION METAL FAB RACING
589 Citation Drive, Dept. AIM
Shakopee, MN 55379
952/496-0053
www.PMFRonline.com
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WIDE TIRE KIT
Bolting a 200-series rear tire on a Road King, Part III
■ FOR THE LAST COUPLE OF ISSUES, WE’VE BEEN SHOWING YOU
how to install a 200-series rear tire on a Road King, or any
other Touring model H-D using a Custom Valley Wide Tire Kit.
In the September issue, we tackled the transmission and gave
you a step-by-stepper on reassembling your transmission with
a new Custom Valley longer mainshaft and other extended
parts, which are needed to offset the primary system and transmission sprocket. This mod is needed to clear the wider rear tire
setup that we started to install in the October issue.
This Custom Valley Big Foot 200 tire kit for Road Kings and
other Touring models comes complete with all of the additional
brackets, spacers, extensions, etc., you need to get a fat tire out
back, except for the new rear wheel, new rear tire, and new
1-1/8" drive belt. And you don’t have to cut off a thing from the
frame components. You can even still use the stock shocks, bags,
etc. This kit uses all the stock OEM parts — even the ones made
by Custom Valley mimic the stock stuff — so the H-D service
manuals can be followed exactly. That
means any H-D mechanic can install the
kit and service the bike afterwards, which
makes this a great kit for owners and H-D
dealerships alike.
Denis Desrosiers, the owner and head
designer at Custom Valley, came to our
buddy Rod Kay’s shop, KC Choppers, to
do the installation for us. Tom Beckwith
of Moore Bros. Body & Paint handled the
paintwork on the new Custom Va l l ey rear
fender. Our new all-billet aluminum rear
wheel is from the good folks at Precision
Metal Fab Racing, while the new rubber
is compliments of Metzeler. The accompanying photos show you what Denis had
to do to finish this upgr a d e .
2
1
After trimming the license plate, Denis installs it and the
mounting frame to the fender from behind using four CV flat
washers and locknuts. Tighten them with an 11/32" socket.
144 • AMERICAN IRON MAGAZINE • NOVEMBER 2005
The CV fender mounting boss, fender
mounting washer, and 1/2" hex nut
are connected to the painted CV rear
fender using a 3/4" wrench. You may
need to carefully remove any excess
paint or filler.
www.AIMag.com
3
The painted custom rear fender is now
installed onto the bike. We used some
thin foam around the frame rails to
keep from scratching the new paint on
the fender.
4
After securing the front of the fender
by installing the T-30 bolt, only fingertight, the left and right CV frame rail
extenders are secured with 3/16" buttonhead bolts, again only fingertight.
5
Denis installs the CV fender support
brackets to the frame rail extenders,
as well as the support brackets to the
fender, by finger-tightening all the
hardware.
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NOVEMBER 2005 • AMERICAN IRON MAGAZINE •
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Tech
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7
The stock saddlebag support bracket is
now bolted to the CV fender support
bracket using the 1/2" hex bolts already
in place.
8
148 • AMERICAN IRON MAGAZINE • NOVEMBER 2005
Now Denis slides the CV fender support
bracket inside the fender but outside
the stock frame rail tab. The attaching
hardware is then installed fingertight.
Since our bike owner has a passenger
backrest, Denis installs the CV detachable docking bracket on top of the
stock saddlebag support bracket. Only
finger-tighten the 1/2" hex bolt.
www.AIMag.com
9
Next on is the CV rear fender mount,
which is installed to the stud that
comes welded underneath the CV custom fender. The 7/16" nut is only fingertightened at this time.
10
11
The front of the CV saddlebag and
exhaust support is then bolted to
the stock left saddlebag guard.
Again, the 7/16" nut and 3/16" Allen
bolt are only finger-tightened for
now.
The back of the CV saddlebag and
exhaust support is also secured to
the CV rear fender mount and the
stock saddlebag support bracket.
Finger-tighten the two T-30 bolts and
two 1/2" hex nuts.
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12
Now that all the brackets and supports are in place, Denis tightens
everything in the same sequence it
was installed. Do all the same bolts
on both sides before moving to the
next set of bolts.
13
With the stock shock installed, Denis
installs the stock air line to the
shock and secures the front and
rear air valves to the CV detachable
docking bracket using a 1/2" nut.
14
The stock H-D seat nut and retention
washer is now installed into the hole
in the CV rear fender.
www.AIMag.com
15
Denis can now install the painted CV
strut cover using the 3/16" Allen bolt
from the H-D detachable backrest
docking kit.
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16
A 7/32" Allen bolt and a 9/16" nut
is used to tighten the docking kit
brace to the CV detachable docking
bracket.
17
The stock front saddlebag mounting
bracket uses a Custom Valleysupplied spacer and a 7/16" hex bolt
that’s screwed into the CV strut
cover and into the frame rail.
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Tech
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For the rear saddlebag mount, use
the CV bracket and a 7/16" hex bolt
that fastens through the CV detachable docking bracket and into the
stock saddlebag support bracket.
19
Denis installs the passenger floorboard using a CV floorboard spacer.
The 5/16" Allen socket is tightened
to factory spec. Also install the
stock chrome plug on the rear
swingarm bracket.
20
152 • AMERICAN IRON MAGAZINE • NOVEMBER 2005
Moving to the front floorboard, we
begin by installing the stock leftrear floorboard bracket using the
two CV 1/2" hex bolts and the CV
spacer and CV 1/2" nuts.
www.AIMag.com
21
Next install the left-front floorboard
bracket using CV 3/8" Allen socket
head bolt and a CV spacer. Be sure
to reuse the stock flat washer and
lock washer on the inside.
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22
The stock floorboard is then
installed to the brackets using
the stock 3/16” Allen and stock
7/16" nut.
Denis installs the saddlebags and
the stock covers. After the bags are
clipped to the brackets, go back
and tighten the 7/16" hex bolts,
which secure the brackets in the
correct position.
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Tech
TIPS & TRICKS
AFTER THE FENDER HAS BEEN
painted, you may need to carefully remove any excess paint or
filler from the fender’s mounting
holes before installing it.
The left and right CV fender
mounting brackets must go
inside the fender but outside the
stock frame rail tab. A 3/16" Allen
bolt and washer goes on the
inside, while a 1/2" bolt and
washer go on the outside. One
goes through the stock frame rail
and CV mounting bracket, while
the other goes through the CV
bracket and fender. ■
SOURCES
CUSTOM VALLEY
282-A St. Jacques Nord
Dept. AIM
Causapscal, Quebec G0J 1J0
418/756-6417
www.CustomValley.com
KC CHOPPERS
135 Pearl Street, Dept. AIM
Port Chester, NY 10573
914/939-4048
www.KCchoppers-Harley.com
METZELER MOTORCYCLE TYRE, NA
See your local Metzeler dealer
www.US.MetzelerMoto.com
MOORE BROS. BODY & PAINT
Route 100 North, Dept. AIM
Wilmington, VT 05363
802/464-7770
www.MooreBrosAutoBody.com
PRECISION METAL FAB RACING
589 Citation Drive, Dept. AIM
Shakopee, MN 55379
952/496-0053
www.PMFRonline.com
154 • AMERICAN IRON MAGAZINE • NOVEMBER 2005
www.AIMag.com
24
The CV LED taillight wire can now
be spliced and installed into the
stock male electrical socket
housing and plugged into the stock
wiring harness.
www.AmericanIronMagazine.com
26
25
The last step is to reinstall the
bike’s seat and passenger backrest.
Here’s how the finished product
looks: Our Custom Valley FLH 200
tire kit really fills out the back of
this 2000 Road King!
AIM
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