Caribbean Beach News #4

ISSUE 4
jun 12
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Sombrero Island • A nutmeg story • The beach interview: Debbie van den Berg • Surf’s up in SXM •
Caribbean kopstoot • Pasanggrahan Royal Guesthouse • Journeying to Paria Bay • Regattas update
Bleu Emeraude 220x310_Mise en page 1 28/10/11 14:24 Page1
The Editor’s Coconut
coordination
As we draw to the end of the season here in the Caribbean, we are also taking a break until 1 December
2012 when issue 5 will come out. But before we say our goodbyes we have an action-packed issue right
here for you.
Read the fascinating story of Irene, the boat that was brought back from total loss after a devastating fire in
2003. It reveals the true passion of a dedicated group of people known as the Friends of Irene. Two boats
that weren’t so lucky are the SS Pedernales and ES Antilla. Both these boats sunk during WWII but today
their story is still kept alive by the divers and snorkelers who dive these sites to discover the spectacular
reef life and explore the still intact sections of the boats. More history? Read all about Sombrero Island - a
tiny island that is loaded with the sense of craftiness and adventure that truly defines the Caribbean.
Louise May
Editor
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Tom; King of Pinel • Tintamarre, a lot of history on a little island • A tale of coconuts • Diving with
all walks of life • Is F the new J ? • Rachel in the Caribbean • Every reason for the Four Seasons
Vanishing Sail • The beach interview: Safira de Wit • Colour me Caribbean • Top of the Kingdom • Eco-luxury on the nature island • Regattas update • Chasing Christmas in the Caribbean
Unity at sea • Take a walk on the wild side • The beach interview: Trumane Trotman • Gunpowder to
guitars • Turtle season • CHE: expect the unexpected • Elbow Beach, Bermuda • Regattas update
Sombrero Island • A nutmeg story • The beach interview: Debbie van den Berg • Surf’s up in SXM •
Caribbean kopstoot • Pasanggrahan Royal Guesthouse • Journeying to Paria Bay • Regattas update
ISSUE 1
DEC 11
Publisher
Jean Jarreau Media SARL
But before you read any further, I would like to take this opportunity to thank all of our readers and advertisers for their support over the last season and I look forward to welcoming you back in December 2012.
EDITOR
Louise May
editor@caribbeanbeachnews.com
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jun 12
Issue 4 - jun 2012
www.caribbeanbeachnews.com
Fancy a day out at the beach? As always we highlight a selection of beaches around the Caribbean but if
you are looking for some action why not hit some of the best surfing spots on St. Maarten/St. Martin or if,
on the other hand, you prefer something more relaxing why not discover how to get a perfect beach body
in our article Beach. Body. Perfect. Who knew that going to the beach could have such positive health benefits! Or discover the delights that can be found by simply wading in the water. Our writer, Lisa Davis-Burnett, takes us exploring at Coralita Point and explains the right way to probe beach rubble and features just
some of the creatures that can be found lurking beneath the rocks. Sit back and enjoy the beach interview
with our cover girl Debbie van den Berg, who, after travelling the world, decided to make SXM her home
and start a career in the boating world. Speaking of boating, we bring you the results and action from the
Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, Captain’s Oliver’s Regatta and the Mount Gay Rum Barbados Regatta.
ISSUE 4
RENTALS
apr 12
VACATION
ISSUE 3
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Feb 12
HÔTELIÈRE
ISSUE 2
RÉSIDENCE
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ADVERTISING
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CONTRIBUTORS
Sanita Belgrave
Danielle Boodoo-Fortuné
Tom Burnett
Tornia Charles
Lisa Davis-Burnett
Stephane Ferron
Susan Fitzharris
Terry Henry
Mike Howard
Jean Jarreau
Montague Kobbe
Marslyn Lewis-Adams
Cécile Lucot
Jean Martinique
Fernelle Neptune
Linette Rabsatt
Petrus de Rooij
Jonas Roosens
Alita Singh
Celia Sorhaindo
Tamika Thomas Williams
Yvonne & David de Vries
Du studio à l’appartement 2 chambres face à la mer des Caraïbes.
240, Bvd de Grand Case - 97150 Saint Martin F.W.I.
Tél.: (+59) 0590 87 27 71 - Fax: (+59) 0590 87 27 63
info@bleuemeraude.com - www.bleuemeraude.com
Caribbean...
4
Coastlines
26
Tales
32
GRAPHIC DESIGN
Stephane Ferron
All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may
be reproduced without the written permission
of Caribbean Beach News magazine. The views,
endorsements and recommendations of the
contributors to this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher or editor.
42
Surf’s Up in SXM
Sombrero Island
Beach. Body. Perfect.
Beaches i of Anguilla, Dominica, Barbados, Grenada, St Barth, St Kitts, St
Lucia, St Maarten & St Martin, St Thomas, St Vincent and Tortola
A Nutmeg Story
Caribbean Kopstoot
Irene; for the love of a boat
Update
Regattas Update: Captain Oliver’s, Barbados Rum and Antigua Classic Yacht
Regatta
Caribbean Calm
Pasanggrahan Royal Guesthouse
The Beach Interview with Debbie van den Berg
Untouched
Journeying to Paria Bay
Tide Pooling
Great Escape to St Lucia
Photo courtesy of Sanita Belgrave
Surf’s Up in SXM
Text by Alita Singh
Photos courtesy of Jonas Roosens
The wave rider lies passively on a yellow board as
the azure water laps around him with a steady
slap. In an instant he lifts his body to stand on
the board just in time to catch the sensuous
crest of a wave as she curls on her way to kiss
the shore.
Surfing is easily associated with California,
thought to be its birth place, the choppy
waters of the Pacific Ocean and the coast
of Australia. St. Maarten is not known as
a hot bed for traditional surfers who arm
themselves only with their waxed surf
boards and rely on their toned and tanned bodies. But,
a handful of avid surfers do populate the beaches, especially early in the
morning and when the ocean all around the island is crashing angrily just as a storm gathers
in the vicinity.
Kite surfing, parasailing, jet skiing and boating top the list of water based activities on St.
Maarten/St. Martin. This leaves the surfers to their quiet communion with the ocean’s salty
sweetness, her soothing sound and the thrill of gliding on her waves.
The beaches on the Atlantic side of the island often see more surfers than those on the
calmer Caribbean Sea side, although Mullet Bay is a popular haunt for surfers. Early morning,
when the sun starts to raise its sleepy head, surfers, after gauging the waves to determine
if it’s a day for surfing, can be found in the waters off Mullet Bay, the island’s most popular
beach. They are there way before classic beach goers arrive to soak up the sun and leave
often before the droves take up residence.
Tucked away out in the “sticks” on the French side of the island is another surfer’s haven that
calls out less to beach goers and more to wave worshippers. The beach, Grandes Cayes/Little
Cayes, is accessible via the road to the French side landfill. Surfers have rated this as a beach
with a very consistent wave that holds a good size. The winter north-western swells are good
as well as the hurricane swells. Word of caution for this surfing spot: watch out for the rocky
outcrop in the middle of the bay.
Caribbean
Cupecoy Beach also attracts experienced surfers when a heavy north-easterly swell is
generated around the island. The swells can give birth to a “funny wave” - some wave energy
reflecting back off the shore. This beach also offers a picturesque view of the shore for surfers
as the white cliff reflects the soft sunlight with hints of the crystal waters and the powdery
sand. This is a de facto clothing optional beach so look out for some nudists.
Guana Bay, about five minutes north-east from Philipsburg, gets stronger surf on some
Coastlines
5
In the mood for more surfing? Try Friar’s Bay Beach
rated by surfers as good for intermediate-level wave
seekers. Plum Bay (also good for boogie boards) has
very fast wave action and calls to experienced surfers.
Winter waves (about three metres) visit the north
and west coasts of St. Maarten/St. Martin from
November to March. The east coast is alive during
the annual hurricane season from June to November,
particularly leading up to the passing of a tropical
system. Average waves are about 1.5 metres, perfect
for mini-malibu and morey boogie.
Surf boards can be rented at Le Galion and Orient Bay.
At most other beaches it is advisable to bring your
own surf board or to be content to sit on the shore
and admire the sweeping curves of the waves.
It’s recommended to do reconnaissance of the island’s
beaches if you are an avid surfer. Either visit them to
scope out the action or just grab a map and randomly
select a beach. Bear in mind although there are good
surf spots on the island, it’s not world class action.
The wave action is enough for a laid back day at the
beach. Surf’s up!
6
Sitting primly over an otherwise unperturbed patch of ocean, Sombrero is not
exactly large – it spans just under a mile (1.5 km) in length and reaches as far
as a quarter of a mile (400 metres) at its widest. It owes its name (hat, in Spanish) to its peculiar shape, perfectly flat on both ends and rising, barely steeply,
to some 40 feet above the sea level at its middle point, where the volcanic
surface also bulges westward, creating a crown of sorts that is both higher and
wider than the surrounding “brim”.
Ever so slightly tilted on the ocean bed, Sombrero’s coastline is dominated by
limestone cliffs all round which cut a straight line at a 30 degree angle on the
eastern (windward) side of the island. Its most remarkable, and most noticeable, feature, however, is the lighthouse located near its centre, which rises
a good 100 feet into the skyline to steer maritime traffic away from the lethal
Horseshoe Reef. These days, the lighthouse is automated, powered by solar
energy and only occasionally visited but up until the turn of the millennium
a team of five Anguillan men were in charge of manning and operating the
device through six week long shifts during which they were left on their own on
Sombrero Island.
The Anegada Passage was the favoured point of entry into Caribbean waters
for ships trafficking between Europe and the Greater Antilles during the days of
colonialism. But the strait that divides Sombrero from Anegada counts among
the most treacherous portions of sea in the world, due to the largely invisible
Horseshoe Reef – the biggest coral reef in the region and the fourth biggest in
the world. Legend has it that during the heyday of pirate activity in the Caribbean, back in the 17th and the beginning of the 18th centuries, pirates would
lurk in the area, sending misguiding signals or diverting boats towards the reef
in order to wreck and loot them.
At that time, Sombrero was nothing more than just a speck of land on the
ocean, used at best as an orientation marker. It would not be until the 19th
century, hundreds of wrecks on the list of victims claimed by Horseshoe Reef,
that Sombrero would gain any relevance of its own. And once it did, it was,
ironically, not for its convenient location, but for the resources that had accumulated on the deserted island over centuries of untroubled existence. Still
today, Sombrero Island is one of the most densely populated bird sanctuaries
in the region and back in the first quarter of the 19th century, before any activity was held on the island at all, the presence of bird life must have been even
more pronounced. Whether or not this played a role in attracting surveyors to
the island, the fact remains that a high density of guano (phosphate of lime,
naturally derived from bird excrement) was discovered in Sombrero Island as
early as 1815.
In 1856, Sombrero was “claimed” by two merchants from Boston under the US
Guano Act of the same year, which stipulated that any Americans who discovered guano in uninhabited islands could ask for government support, should
third parties dispute or disturb their activities. According to published reports,
in 1860 the island featured ample facilities, such as a railway that cut through
Photo by Colville Petty
There is an island on the Anegada Passage, right on the north-eastern tip of
the Caribbean atoll, little known and seldom visited, which once, however,
bore the riches of a hardly prosperous community and which still today pays
invaluable service to seafarers and pleasure cruisers alike. It goes by the name
of Sombrero Island and its story is made of the stuff that nurtures fantasies, that
fosters legend and that calls, hard and loud, to be told.
Photo by Vince Cate
Maho Beach does not ping much on the radar of local
surfers. However, during a heavy swell and in the
hurricane season it packs a punch. It’s one of the only
places where sunbathers, surfers and plane spotters
can converge in harmony. Look out, however, for
the abrupt arrival on the beach and the craggy coral
coastline.
Text by Montague Kobbe
Photo by Vince Cate
Le Galion Beach combines the best of on and off shore
activities. Surfers with families are best served by
heading to Le Galion with its plethora of water sports.
Its naturally shallow section is perfect for children and
non-swimmers to float around in. The choppier side
of the beach calls to the thrill seekers to blend the
experience of skimming the water and harnessing the
wind through kite-surfing or indulgence in the simple,
yet robust sport of surfing.
Home of far-fetched fancy.... and birds
Photo by Vince Cate
Orient Bay, the most popular clothing optional beach,
is also great for surfing. Surfers can get a little distance
from the maddening crowd at the eastern end of the
beach. While clothing is optional here, surf boards
can be rented as well as equipment for other water
based sports. Relax in between waves at a host of
restaurants and bars serving everything from burgers
and fries to sushi and foie gras.
Sombrero Island
Photo by Vince Cate
Coastlines
days of the year due to its exposure to the Atlantic
Ocean. This is a secluded beach with no amenities
close by so go equipped with everything from a
surf board, sunscreen and an umbrella for shade
during an onshore break. It is recommended for
strong swimmers only because it usually has a heavy
undertow.
7
Coastlines
the island from north to south, several quarries, a rudimentary loading bay and a settlement of over 200 West Indians, mostly from the British and Danish Virgin Islands but also
from Anguilla, housed in wooden barracks and overseen
by roughly a dozen white managers, including a superintendent by the name of Snow, whose excessively strict approach sparked a spontaneous revolt among the workers,
which ultimately cost him his life and the Sombrero Company a few days of labour. Much more trouble lay ahead,
however, as the British realised the size and significance of
the operation and actively sought to reclaim the rock from
1863 onwards.
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VIXEN II 78-foot Edwardian Herreschoff schooner Build 1915 limited edition
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fines the Caribbean. It was, however, far from the end of
Sombrero, whose lighthouse remains a crucial beacon to
this very day. Annexed to the Federal Colony of the Leeward Islands in 1904, Sombrero was paired with the Presidency of St. Kitts, Nevis and Anguilla when the new constitution of the Federation of the West Indies was drafted in
1956. The old lighthouse, though fitted with a new lighting
system in 1931, badly needed replacing by the time hurricane Donna hit the area with devastating force in 1960.
A new structure was erected in 1962, this time powered by
kerosene, which remained in place until 2001, when the
new, automated machine was set up.
Roughly at the same time, the initiative to build a light- Through the Anguillan revolt of 1967-69 and the ensuing pohouse on Sombrero Island gathered pace, noticeably litical turmoil, Anguilla was always in charge of operating,
through the lobbying of the Royal Mail Steam
supervising
Packet Company, after its steam liner, the Parand manning
matta, was wrecked on
the lighthouse
her maiden voyage off
and,
therethe coast of Anegada
fore, it was
in the summer of 1859.
only natural
The plans were stalled by
for the island
the dispute between the
to be awardSombrero Company and
ed
authorthe British government but
ity over the
once this was resolved
rock once the
in favour of the latter, in
separation of
1867, the erection of the
Anguilla from
lighthouse became a priSt. Kitts and
ority. By then, the British
Nevis
was
had already awarded the
formalised.
Above right: The
Sombrero Company the
Seemingly innocuous as
new automatedLighthouse. Photo
license to extract guano
this detail might seem, it
by Colville Petty,
Anguilla Heritage
from the island for the folhas provided Anguilla with
Collection
lowing 21 years for a fee
vast and rich fishing waters
Right: Photo by
of £1,000 per year but af– an invaluable asset for a
Vince Cate
Above left: The
ter shipping over 100,000 tons of guano from the Lighthouse
small insular dependency.
as it was
Photo by
island, the company ran into trouble and was until 2001.Vince
Cate
liquidated in 1871.
Thus, Sombrero lived in total remoteness, inhabited only by
five Anguillans, through most of the 20th century. Which
That was the end of American involvement in Sombrero for ought to have been happily ever after, had it not been for
over a century, as the enterprise was now picked up by a Beal Aerospace. One of the providers for NASA during the
banker by the name of Emile Erlanger, who bought the 21 late 1990s, Beal specialised in the development of launch
year license for £55,000 and established the New Sombrero vehicles (i.e. rockets) and in 1997 it devised an audacious
Phosphate Company. The newly created company was plan, which resonated dangerously with the sort of farlisted on the stock market, with shareholders’ funds used to fetched fancy pertinent of, for instance, a guano quarry in
purchase, among other things, the lease that Erlanger had the middle of the ocean: Beal proposed to use Sombrero Isobtained for £55,000 – except he sold it to his own company land as the exclusive launching site of the BA-2 vehicle. For
for twice the amount. This led to a long landmark process in this purpose, it signed an agreement with the Government
British company law that lasted until 1878 but the New Som- of Anguilla in December 1997 for the lease of the island
brero Phosphate Company continued its operations on the for the following 98 years. Alas, huge environmental conisland, regardless, now blasting its way through the rock to cerns allied themselves with NASA’s decision to fund new
reach the guano, often some 20 feet beneath sea level.
independent space launch initiatives, sending Beal into
insolvency in 1999. Fortune had smiled on Sombrero once
By the end of the 21 year lease, resources in Sombrero were again. Two years later, the final lighthouse keepers would
so scarce and difficult to access that their extraction was also evacuate the island, leaving Sombrero to the excluno longer viable. It was the end of an unlikely enterprise, sive use of birds and fish, as it was in the beginning. May it
loaded with the sense of craftiness and adventure that de- remain so for a long time to come.
8
e-mail: info @ ClassicYachtForSale.com or call +590690629955
9
Coastlines
BEACH. BODY. PERFECT.
For those who want to
work on their beach
body, there are a number of exercises that burn
calories and tone muscles in the water and on
the shore.
SUN EXPOSURE
YOGA
Sand Scrub
10
Exfoliation, the removal of dead skin cells, is an essential way to maintain optimal skin health
and fight the effects of aging. Regular exfoliation helps to open the pores of the skin enabling the body’s largest organ to detoxify and ‘breathe’. Using sand to exfoliate the body
is an excellent pampering treatment which improves skin tone and makes the entire body
feel luxuriously soft.
Sand alone provides a great basic scrub but an upgraded version can be made by adding two tablespoons of grape seed, coconut, almond or olive oil to every two tablespoons
of sand along with a couple of drops of essential oils such as rosemary, lavender or ylangylang. Using this mixture ensures a gentle exfoliation with moisturising properties and the additional benefits of aromatherapy.
Exfoliation of the skin should only be carried out a maximum of twice per week. The face
must be treated with care and not exposed to coarse grains of sand. Consult an expert
when using essential oils and avoid citrus oils, bergamot and citronella which can make the
skin more sensitive to the sun.
Swimming is one of the most
effective fat burning exercises and it also increases lung
capacity, muscle tone and
strength. Since swimming is a
non-weight bearing exercise
it is very effective for people
with joint problems or any other condition that would make
regular aerobic exercise difficult.
For
non-swimmers,
working against the resistance of the water by walking
thigh high in the ocean will
increase physical strength.
There are many clear warnings about the
negative effects of excess sun exposure but in
moderation the sun is an excellent way to boost
vitamin D levels, help overcome Seasonal Affective Disorder or depression and in some cases improve skin conditions such as acne and
eczema.
Photo courtesy of Jonas
Roosens
Yoga is more than an exercise routine but a discipline designed to harmonise mind
and body using the breath and body poses known as asanas. The holistic nature
of yoga lends itself perfectly to being practiced outdoors where participants are
surrounded by natural elements. Breathing deeply into a pose is more beneficial
with air charged with ions from the ocean. A study published in the Journal of Environmental Science and Technology in 2011 showed that in most cases there is
an improvement in mental well-being when exercising outdoors. Exercising in the
natural environment is associated with greater feelings of revitalisation, increased
energy and positive engagement, together with decreases in tension, confusion,
anger and depression. Participants of the study also reported greater enjoyment
and satisfaction from an outdoor activity and stated that they were more likely to
repeat the activity at a later date.
Photo courtesy of Terri Henry
The therapeutic use of the ocean and
marine products like algae, seaweed
and mud is known as thalassotherapy. It
is believed that by bathing in warm seawater the nutrients found in the ocean,
such as magnesium, potassium, calcium, sodium and iodide, are absorbed
through the skin and provide rejuvenation to the entire body. The high salt
content of seawater has a detoxifying
effect and can be especially soothing
for muscular aches and pains as well as
more complex conditions such as arthritis or rheumatism.
RELAX...
Beach fitness
There is a simple reason why people around the
globe choose beach vacations; the sun, sea and sand
make us feel good. There are also scientific studies
that explain why time at the beach is beneficial to
our health. Here are some simple techniques we
can utilise to enjoy the benefits.
As well as lazing in a lounger, being at the beach allows us to engage in simple relaxation practices that can enhance mindfulness,
present-moment focus and simply allow a letting go of tension and
stress.
The time honoured children’s tradition of building sandcastles and
playing in the sand does not need to end in adulthood. The benefits
of the tactile and sensory properties of sand provide similar stress
relieving effects to that of stroking a pet.
Floating in the sea is an ultimate relaxation technique that provides
calm, balance and peaceful moments that recharge the soul.
Floatation tanks can be found in a number of high-end city spas,
but whilst on the beach head for
some calm water and float the
cares of the day away. Focusing on the rhythmic lapping of
the ocean waves is an easy way
to engage in simple meditation
and finding peace of mind.
The beach makes us feel well,
look good, live healthier and
enjoy a peaceful state of mind.
Make sure you give yourself a
prescription to go to the beach
today.
Swimming
Thalassotherapy
Text by Terri Henry
Run run run...
In addition to providing scenery that no gym
treadmill can match, running on the beach
has numerous extra benefits over other types
of running. A study published in the European
Journal of Applied Physiology and Occupational Physiology showed that people who
ran or walked on sand used between 20 and
80 extra calories per mile. Running on sand
strengthens the ankles, the arches and develops the lower leg muscles.
Sand running is easier on the
joints due to the absorption
of impact which can result in
fewer long-term injuries. The
uneven surface of sand can
result in greater co-ordination,
balance and full body strength
as the core abdominals, back
and shoulders all get a workout when moving on shifting
terrain.
Photo courtesy of Jean Jarreau
There are, however, some
cautionary measures for sand running. Experts tend to agree that runners should begin
their regimen by only running on compacted
sand near the shoreline rather than loose sand
which is more demanding and difficult. It is
also advised that proper running shoes should
be worn from the onset in order to ensure the
legs develop the key strengths needed for
barefoot running. To maintain correct weight
balance and land mid-foot, experts suggest
that runners shorten their stride and lean forward, lifting their knees and arms higher.
11
www.ClassicYachtForSale.com
Winston Churchill’s Vintage Motor Yacht AMAZON / Welsh Liberty build in 1936
LOA: 39.6 m (130.0') Draft: 2.8 m (9.2') Beam: 6 m (21') Guests: 12 Crew: 8
N O W E X C L U S I V E LY O F F E R E D F O R E u r o 3 . 8 5 0 . 0 0 0
a selection of...
ANGUILLA BEACHES
by Montague Kobbe
SHOAL BAY EAST
RENDEZVOUS BAY
Emblematic for its size and
the quality of its sand, Shoal
Bay East ranks among the best
beaches in the entire world.
Suitably equipped with all the
amenities imaginable, no visit
to Anguilla is complete without
spending at least a day in this
truly remarkable place.
One of the most iconic beaches in
Anguilla; Rendezvous Bay has been
at the centre of the island’s tourism
industry from the very start, back
in the 1960s. With ample facilities
for visitors, this is an ideal location
for a day at the beach for the entire
family.
MEADS BAY
e-mail: info @ ClassicYachtForSale.com or call +590690629955
Far into the West End, the tourist
capital of Anguilla, you’ll find this
spot of tranquillity. Home to one
of the Caribbean’s most known and
outstanding restaurants, Barnes
Bay is, quite simply, picture perfect.
KATOUCHE BAY
SANDY GROUND
Secluded on the northern end
of the island, Katouche is little
known and even less spoilt. And
while it might not be the best
beach in Anguilla for a swim, it
makes up for it with a unique opportunity to explore one of the
island’s caves.
ISLAND HARBOUR
Aerial Photography Caribbean-Mediterannean-USA-Pacific
www.HeliPhotoCarib.com
e-mail : info@HeliPhotoCarib.com
Phone : +590690629955 Office: +590590510495
Med: +33647123910
BARNES BAY
Among the most coveted strips
of land in the Caribbean, Meads
Bay was home to the first upscale development on the island,
back in the 1980s. Since then, it
has remained a favourite among
visitors with numerous bars, restaurants and hotels comfortably
spread over its three miles of
pristine beach.
The legendary centre of Anguilla’s
nightlife is also an astonishing
sheltered bay, home to much daylight activity. While the island’s
main port of entry is located on the
southern end of the beach, the narrow sliver of land between the sea
and the large salt pond is home to
guest houses, restaurants and many
more attractions.
SHOAL BAY WEST
Far from the beaten track, Island
Harbour is slowly becoming the
“in” place for the true connoisseur of Anguilla. Picturesque
and quaint, this fishing town also
boasts some of the island’s most
genuine food establishments.
Right at the western tip of the island, facing straight into the Caribbean Sea, Shoal Bay West provides
one of the most stunning beach
experiences in the region. A wide
and long stretch of white sand of
the highest quality combined with
a placid swim and comfortable
dining facilities guarantee a perfect
outing.
CROCUS BAY
THE COVE
Located on the northern end, at the
bottom of the island’s highest point,
Crocus offers history and comfort
in equal measures. Once the site of
an unsuccessful French invasion,
it is now home to one of Anguilla’s
most popular restaurants.
The Cove is a spectacular threemile fisherman’s beach speckled with the occasional boat
anchored at the sheltered end
of the bay. Charming to the extreme, visitors hardly ever venture away from the restaurant,
which is equipped with ample
facilities, therefore, The Cove
offers both comfort and seclusion at the same time.
13
Coastlines
a selection of...
DOMINICABEACHES
by Celia Sorhaindo
Miami Beach is very popular
for tourists and locals alike. It is
ideal for picnics, barbeques and
sunbathing on its sandy shores.
After a great swim, one can take
a three minute walk to Oistins,
the town of fish festivals, restaurants and where the music
comes alive at night.
Browns Beach feels like a blend of
two beaches. With beach sports
like snorkelling, ocean trampoline,
iceberg climb and slide, dive platform and rope swing, you are sure
to find this beach perfect for social
activities. For a taste of the Caribbean, you will find restaurants like
South Deck nearby or for a drink
try Sharkey’s Bar.
SAND/ MIDDLE BAY
DOVER BEACH
HODGES BAY
POINTE BAPTISTE
BRANDONS BEACH
Probably more “secret” than
the officially named Secret
Beach, this idyllic, sheltered
and remote bay in Marigot is
mostly unknown, even to many
residents. It has an expanse of
golden sand and the sea is surprisingly calm for the Atlantic.
With plenty of beach sports like
wind surfing, surf boarding and
jet skiing; this beach is indeed
fun. The excitement is not only in
the water but one can play volleyball or beach tennis on the sand.
After a day at this beach, one can
walk down “The Gap”, a street
known for its many hotels, restaurants and night clubs.
After locals and tourists jump for
Crop Over, the national harvest
festival, they end up at Brandons
Beach for a good picnic and party.
Brandons Beach is also known for
beach sports such as volleyball,
beach tennis and horse riding. One
can be sure to get a fantastic meal
at Weisers or walk down the beach
to Cockspur Beach Bar for drinks
and much more.
SCOTTS HEAD BAY
WORTHING
BEACH
BATTS ROCK
This sheltered cove on the
Cachacrou isthmus is located in a charming south west
fishing village. A protected
marine reserve, it has a small
area of dark volcanic sand
and calm waters, making it
ideal for swimming, snorkelling and scuba-diving.
SECRET (BORD LA MER)
Worthing Beach exemplifies the
true meaning of a gem of the
Caribbean waters. With palm
trees overlying the golden sand
and boats floating on the blue
waters, this beach is perfect for
relaxation and swimming.
ROCKLEY BEACH
Batts Rock Beach offers picture
perfect moments with waves crashing against the sea shore and reef
walking at certain times of the year.
This beach is full of crabs and birds
and every now and then you may
be lucky enough to see a green
monkey as it crosses the road. Also
a popular stop for catamarans, allowing tourists and locals to snorkel and swim with turtles.
FITTS VILLAGE
Another of Dominica’s charming light coral sand beaches, just
a short distance from Calibishie.
The bay is stunningly back
dropped by the photogenic red
rock coastline and the delightful
bar right on the beach makes it a
perfect location to unwind.
Located near the south east village of Riviere Cyrique, the trail
to this striking, black, soft volcanic sand beach is signposted
from the main village road. Due
to the strong Atlantic cross currents swimming is only recommended for experienced adults.
Tourists typically frequent the sand
with beach chairs and umbrellas.
On site, there are beach shops, the
popular Seaside Beach Bar & Bistro and the boardwalk. The boardwalk allows one to capture the true
beauty of the south coast and feel
the spray of the ocean as it beats
against the rocks.
Come to Fitts Village Beach and see
culture come alive. Walk between
the trees to reach the glistening waters, then take a lovely stroll on the
sand and enjoy the sunshine. Fitts
Village Beach is ideal for collecting
pebbles and sea stones but you’ll
soon find out it’s just the right mix
of pebbles and sand.
PURPLE TURTLE
WOODFORD HILL
PEBBLES BEACH
PAYNES BAY BEACH
Situated in the second largest
town of Portsmouth, relatively
shallow, with a long, light and
dark sand beach and a waterside restaurant, this is probably
Dominica’s most well known
beach. A scenic spot for family
weekends, picnics and fabulous
sunsets.
14
This dark sand beach, great
for driftwood hunting, is
found south of the east
coast village of Castle Bruce.
Swimming can be very challenging sometimes with the
strong Atlantic waves but the
river at the end makes a refreshing alternative.
Unusual underwater hot spring
“champagne” bubbles and a
natural aquarium of colourful sea life makes this beach,
15 minutes drive from Roseau,
a snorkelling must. There is
a boardwalk for easier access
across the rocky coastline.
Great for iguana spotting too!
Located on the west coast, half
an hour from Roseau, Mero has
a long, attractive stretch of dark
volcanic sand. Easily accessible,
with showers, bars and a cafe,
this beach is very popular for
swimming or just soaking up
the sun.
by Sanita Belgrave
BROWNS BEACH
ST DAVID’S BAY
MERO
BARBADOSBEACHES
MIAMI BEACH
CHAMPAGNE
This scenic, quiet, sheltered
bay, a few minutes drive from
Calibishie, has a picturesque
beach with an inviting expanse of light and dark sand.
Usually quiet so you may have
it all to yourself. Said to be
good for fishing too.
a selection of...
This picture-postcard, peaceful, north east beach, with an
alluring stretch of golden sand
fringed with coconut palms,
is located off the main coastal
road. Atlantic currents can
make swimming tricky but an
excellent location for beachcombing, picnicking and sunbathing.
Pebbles Beach is surrounded by
some of Barbados’ finest places
like the Hilton Hotel, Brown Sugar
Restaurant, Dipper’s Beach Bar and
the Barbados Cruising Club. From
Pebbles Beach one can take a glass
bottom boat and observe the underwater creatures with family and
friends. For more adventure you
can ride the waves or simply build
castles in the sand.
Paynes Bay Beach is definitely
the place to catch boats and jet
skis passing by. It is also where
the catch of the day comes in to
be sold later at the Paynes Bay
Fish Market.
15
Coastlines
a selection of...
ST.
BARTHBEACHES
by Cécile Lucot
This is, without a doubt, Grenada’s most popular beach for
social activities. With its various food and beverage facilities,
art and craft centre, shops and
parking facilities, this beach
is perfect for almost all social
activities and is ideal for everyone.
Home to the world’s first Underwater Sculpture Park, Moliniere
Bay or Dragon Bay, as it is otherwise called, is arguably the best
spot on the island for snorkelling.
With its colourful coral reefs and
other amazing aquatic creatures,
Moliniere Bay is ideal for those
looking for that unique island
adventure.
SALINE
MORNE ROUGE / BBC
The longest beach in St Barth is also the one that offers
the greatest choice of amenities with restaurants, a sailing club and being able to
watch aircraft take off and
land throughout the day.
The most remote beach on the
island is also famous for its
beauty and its tranquillity. People come to the beach early each
morning to swim and walk and
both locals and visitors can be
found sunbathing throughout
the day.
FLAMANDS
MARIGOT
One of the quieter beaches of
the island as it is quite small
but definitely one of the nicest bays for swimming and
diving as it is protected by
the Nature Reserve.
PETIT CUL-DE-SAC
The 20 minute walk from the
main road to this beach is absolutely worth it. The beach is
suitable for everyone as the waters are very calm. The beach
is usually quiet unless there are
some activities going on.
DUSQUENE BAY
Filled with rich history, Dusquene Bay is a live testimony of
Grenada’s past. Petroglyphs can
still be seen along with a great
view of other small neighbouring islands. The beach is also a
great picnic area and popular
fishing spot for locals in the village of Dusquene in St. Mark. It
is perfect for small children and
families alike.
GROOMS
LA SAGESSE
Perfect for families and friends,
La Sagesse is ideal for large gatherings. With beach chair, boogie board and kayak rentals and
a cricket field not too far away,
La Sagesse makes for a great fun
spot. Feel free to watch or even
join in a game of cricket followed
by a cool but refreshing swim in
the ocean.
GRAND ANSE
Measuring almost two miles long,
Grand Anse Beach is the most popular beach for visitors on the island.
You can hop on-board a water taxi,
get a beach chair, browse the Craft
and Spice Market or explore your
adventurous side with a range of
thrilling water sports. With its
amazing views and buzzing activity, Grand Anse Beach really does
have it all!
MT. RODNEY
Well known for its large number
of shells mixed with the sand as
well as for the restaurant that
is located there, Shell Beach is
close to the town of Gustavia
and is ideal for swimming and
enjoying a drink, lunch or dinner on the water’s edge whilst
admiring the magnificent sunsets.
This calm bay, protected by the
Nature Reserve, offers great
delights for those who like to
go snorkelling. The beach is
perfect for children who can
play without risk in the shallow
pools of water.
If you want to get away from it
all, Grooms Beach is definitely
the place to go. Small and secluded, this beach only comes
alive during special events.
Crashing waves, quiet surroundings and a great view of
the city are the only things that
will cross your mind while at
Grooms Beach.
If you would like to explore the lifestyle of the locals, then you must
go to Mt. Rodney in the morning. Fishermen working together
to bring in their catch are not a
strange sight here nor is a game of
dominoes over drinks. After a dip
in the ocean you can find a quiet
spot to relax or take a cool walk
to the historical Leapers Hill just a
few miles away.
LORIENT BEACH
TOINY BEACH
LEVARA
PALMISTE
In the heart of the village of
Lorient, this beautiful beach
provides plenty of shade in the
mornings and is ideal for families with young children who
can play safely at the water’s
edge. You will also find people
taking surfing lessons at the
Reefer Surf Club.
16
It is impossible to not fall in
love with this beautiful arc
of fine sand surrounded by
palm trees. Close to Gustavia, access to the beach
is easy and ideal for taking
even a quick dip.
Access to this beach is by boat
or a 15 minute walk from Flamands. It is an ideal spot for a
swim or a picnic on the beach.
The waters are protected by the
Nature Reserve and are perfect
for seeing turtles, starfish and
colourful reef fish.
SHELL BEACH
by Tornia Charles
MOLINIERE BAY
GOUVERNEUR
This is a long beach which,
at the same time, is both remote and stylish with two
upscale hotels and restaurants. The beach offers plenty of activities.
BEACHES
GRENADA
BATHWAY
COLOMBIER
ST. JEAN
a selection of...
Sometimes dangerous for
swimming, Toiny Beach is perfect for a romantic stroll or a
family outing to watch the surfers who meet there to ride the
waves.
Levera has often been described as a ‘turtle lover’s paradise.’ Whether you choose to
go turtle watching at night or
just relax on the sand, Levara
is the place for you. Allow the
beautiful view and quiet surroundings to captivate your
mind. It is perfect for couples
and nature lovers.
A popular fishing area and
hang out spot, Palmiste Beach
is a frequently visited area for
locals. With a few secluded areas and close proximity to public
transportation, this black sand
beach is frequently used for
various social activities. This
beach is not ideal for kids as the
water is always rough.
17
Coastlines
a selection of...
ST
KITTS BEACHES
SOUTH FRIARS BAY
BANANA BAY
This is one of the most popular
beaches for locals and tourists
alike, whilst managing not to feel
overcrowded. Located just at the
beginning of the peninsula, there is
a wide variety of beach bars offering food and drink. The sea is calm
with a reef running the length of
the beach making it ideal for swimming and snorkelling.
ST LUCIA BEACHES
by Fernelle Neptune
CAS EN BAS
REDUIT BEACH
To get away from the crowd
try this deserted beach next to
Cockleshell. It is longer than it
first appears. Shade is provided
by palm trees and there are
rockpools right on the beach
and a rocky outcrop for snorkelling.
Cas En Bas Beach is a secluded
beach located on the northern
side of St Lucia and is perfect
for everyone. The golf course
and many hotels, restaurants
and bars are a 10 minute drive
from this beach. Cas En Bas
Beach is suitable for kite and
wind surfing.
Reduit beach is known for being
one of the most popular beaches
in St Lucia, especially for travellers. It is the ideal place for a swim
in the calm waters. In the distance,
the views of Fort Rodney and Pigeon Point can be seen. This beach
is in close proximity to restaurants, bars, hotels, night clubs and
other tourist attractions.
NORTH FRIARS BAY
TURTLE BEACH
PIGEON ISLAND
MALGRETOUTE
An Atlantic Ocean beach which
is lovely for a walk or for dramatic photographs. Swimming
is prohibited due to rough conditions and rip tides. During
nesting season this is a busy
beach for turtle monitoring
with eco-tours available.
An Atlantic Ocean bay at the far
end of the peninsula. One end
is rocky with rough water and
reefs close to the shore while
the other end is sandy and good
for swimming. A lovely restaurant is situated on this beach
which is open for lunch and
dinner.
Known for being the most
popular beach on the island of
St Lucia, Pigeon Island Beach is
ideal for everyone. On a sunny
day, the outline of Martinique
is visible. The beach is in close
proximity to restaurants, bars,
craft and souvenirs shops and
hotels.
This is a secluded beach located in Soufriere, where a warm
bath can be enjoyed underneath the two world famous
Pitons (volcanic plugs). Malgretoute Beach is an ideal place
for fishing, swimming, diving
and sailing.
WHITE HOUSE BAY
NORTH FRIGATE BAY
LABRELOTTE BAY
ANSE DE SABLES
A stoney beach on the Caribbean Sea side of St Kitts
half way down the peninsula. A good place if you just
want to swim and snorkel
as there’s a reef close to the
shore and if you look closely
you may find bits of old shipwrecks.
An Atlantic Ocean beach with
two sides. That closest to the peninsula has no facilities and is not
protected from the waves. Swim
with caution but it is good for
body boarding, kite surfing and
other water sports. The other end
is in front of the Marriot Resort
and has man-made protection
from the waves.
Labrelotte Bay, a pleasant and
calm grey sand beach, which
is situated between the East
Winds Inn & Windjammer
Landing, is the perfect place for
everyone. This private beach is
surrounded with almond and
palm trees.
This beach, which is famous for
its stretch of fine white sand,
overlooks Maria Island. Anse
de Sables, also known as ‘Sandy
Beach’, is a popular location
for wind and kite surfing. This
is the ideal place to socialise
whilst enjoying the great food
and drinks from the restaurants
and bars.
SOUTH FRIGATE
MARIGOT BAY
LABORIE BEACH
Known for being one of the
most beautiful bays in the Caribbean, Marigot Bay is located
on the north-western side of St
Lucia. Accessible via ferry, this
beach is ideal for everyone with
restaurants and bars and craft
and souvenirs shops.
The calm waters of Laborie
Beach are the perfect place to
spend the day with the kids and
enjoy swimming. This beach is
located in the fishing village of
Laborie.
VIGIE BEACH
CHOC BAY
Well-known for its long stretch of
sandy beach, Vigie Beach is ideal
for social activities. The calm waters are suitable for swimming
and fishing and you can enjoy the
pleasure of eating and drinking at
the nearby restaurants and bars.
The day can be well spent enjoying the cool breeze under the
shade of the almond trees.
This peaceful beach is located on the north-western
side of St Lucia and ideal for
family outings. Choc Bay is
a great place to enjoy swimming, fishing and water
sports. It is in close proximity to restaurants, bars, hotels
and other tourist attractions.
SANDY BANK BAY
Located down the peninsula on
the Atlantic Ocean side, this white
sand cove is protected from the
waves by reefs. There are no facilities so it is essential to bring your
own shade. The water stays shallow
as there is a gentle gradient into
the sea and is great for swimming,
snorkelling and beginners surfing
or body boarding. This is another
turtle nesting beach in season.
The busiest beach for nightlife on the island, also known
as ‘The Strip’, has a whole
row of beach bars open until
all hours. There is plenty to
do during the day with water sports, swimming, snorkelling, volleyball and local
trade stands.
COCKLESHELL
HALFMOON BAY
Located at the end of the
peninsula, this is a beautiful
palm tree lined, golden sand
beach within a sheltered bay
looking over to Nevis. A
beach to visit day or night
with places open for dinner
at certain times of year.
18
by Susan Fitzharris
a selection of...
Further round from North
Frigate Bay, this alcove bay is
the place to get away from the
crowd. There are no facilities
and by the shore you are protected by natural reefs giving
shelter and great family areas,
while behind the reef you will
find the typical Atlantic Ocean
waves.
19
Coastlines
a selection of...
ST MAARTEN BEACHES
& ST MARTIN
by Yvonne & David de Vries
ORIENT BAY
GIBBS BAY
One of the most popular beaches on the island as it offers great
food, shops, a large variety of
water sports and clear waters.
It is also a popular spot in the
evenings. Half of this beach is a
nude beach.
ANSE MARCEL
ST THOMASBEACHES
by Tamika Thomas Williams
LINDQUIST
Also known as Red Pond, this
beach is located in front of a
commercial development. A
lovely place to sit as there is a
nice easterly breeze in your face
and a great view of St. Barth on
a clear day. This beach can get
rough in which case it is not
recom­mended for young kids.
HULL BAY
This haven is known for its sunset beach walks and its nightlife. The restaurant, Hull Bay
Hideaway, provides traditional
American cuisine and refreshments throughout the day and
evening. It takes quite a trek
to get to this gem but it is well
worth it.
This beach is very close to St.
Thomas’ bustling east end but
feels more like an escape from
reality. It features about half a
mile of uninterrupted beach
and is a local favourite because
of its serene beauty.
BAIE ROUGE
MAGENS BAY
This beach is located in front
of a resort, and for the right
reasons. The water front has
great snorkelling, several
restaurants and a selection
of water sport rentals.
A lovely beach with great
snorkelling. Follow the rocks
around to a beautiful rocky arch
and a small deserted beach. The
two restaurants are popular and
so is the beach with both locals
and tourists alike.
Popular with both locals and
tourists alike, this heart shaped
wonder has miles of sand and
sea to make for an enjoyable
outing. It is great for kayaking,
swimming, snorkelling, hiking
or jogging. The beach snack
bar has an excellent menu but if
you get the urge to cook, grilling is allowed.
Nestled deep in the heart of
Smith Bay, Coki Point Beach is
breathtaking. Perfect for snorkelling, relaxing on the sand or
playing on the beach, the beach
is lined with small huts providing local delights. It is a stone’s
throw away from Coral World
Marine Park.
CORALITA
BAIE LONGUE
LINDBERGH BAY
VESSUP
A full mile of water, sand and
sun. A great place to spend a
relaxing day but remember to
bring your beach umbrella!
This beach has no shaded areas
and can get very hot.
Just a few steps from the airport, this beach provides an
unexpected charm and atmosphere. A favourite of both locals and visitors, Lindbergh Bay
provides cool, crisp, clear open
waters and clean white sand.
It is ideal for relaxing on the
beach or playing in the ocean.
This local favourite is hidden
in St. Thomas’ east end. The
road to the beach is rugged
but it is a peaceful getaway
once you arrive. Local boaters use the bay often.
DAWN BEACH
Located in Oyster Pond, Coralita Beach was previously
part of the Coralita Hotel,
but now has no amenities to
offer. However, this beach is
by far one of the best places
to snorkel.
COKI POINT BEACH
This secluded beach offers a
small and private beach for
those who like to be in the
nude. This beach does not have
any facilities.
A very popular beach which is
located near several resorts, a
restaurant and offers a variety
of water sports.
BREWERS BAY
SAPPHIRE BEACH
Brewers Bay is loved by locals
living in St. Thomas’ west end
as it is ideal for swimming, fishing, beach games and relaxing.
It is easy to get to and is in close
proximity to the University of
the Virgin Islands’ golf course,
a heliport and the airport.
If you enjoy sports on the
beach, this beach might be a
great option for you. A flat area
of sand makes it perfect for
beach sports and many rentals
are also available for fun in the
open waters. Sapphire Beach
Hotel surrounds the beach.
HAPPY BAY
GRAND CASE
BOLONGO BAY
One of the hardest beaches to
get to from the roadside as it
involves a ten minute hike but
once discovered it’s a small paradise. There are no activities or
facilities but this helps to make
the bay the perfect place to relax.
A popular beach due to its location within the village of Grand
Case. Next to all the popular
restaurants, including the local
‘lolo’s, you can also enjoy the
sunset with a drink from one of
the beach bars.
On a clear day, guests of the
Bolongo Bay Hotel can be seen
frolicking in the ocean and relaxing on the sand. This beach
plays host to Iggies Beach Bar
and Grill which once a week
provides entertainment such
as karaoke, fire dancing and
Caribbean music.
SECRET HARBOUR
BAY
CUPECOY
20
a selection of...
This little bay, located in front of
the Secret Harbour Hotel, takes a
bit of an effort to find, but its quaint
charm and easy going atmosphere
are well worth it. It is mostly frequented by tourists. Children play
easily on the sand and in the shallows. The more adventurous can
venture out to a floating raft for fun
in the water.
21
Coastlines
a selection of...
ST VINCENTBEACHES
by Marslyn Lewis-Adams
VILLA BEACH
INDIAN BAY
A very popular beach located on the southern coast.
This beach is easily accessible
via the recently constructed
boardwalk or using the hotels
as a throughway and offers a
lovely evening sunset.
PETERS HOPE
22
BEACHES
TORTOLA
by Linette Rabsatt
JOSIAH’S BAY
CANE GARDEN
A favourite beach for travellers
and locals alike as it is sheltered
and mostly calm. One can easily be captivated by its natural
beauty and be lured into a deep
state of relaxation.
Josiah’s Bay is nestled on Tortola’s north-eastern side and
attracts surfers and divers. A
great spot for swimming, Josiah’s Bay also has a bar, a restaurant and a guest house in close
proximity to the beach.
Cane Garden Bay is Tortola’s
most popular beach for visitors and residents. The scene of
the annual BVI Music Festival,
Cane Garden has lots to offer
including shopping, several eateries and bars, historical sites
and water sports.
RAWACOU - ARGYLE
LONG BAY - BEEF
ISLAND
This is a black sand beach located at the bottom of the Peters
Hope agricultural estate. With
partial vehicular access a short
hike is needed to get to the private beach.
Find moments of pure serenity
here, indulge in the naturally
protected pond spanning 300 x
65 feet or take a lazy walk and
feel the silky sand between your
toes.
WALLILABOU BAY
LAYOU
A pirate’s cove, made popular
by the filming of “Pirates of
the Caribbean” with evidence
edged in the remnant of the
decor. This sheltered bay offers
a spectacular scenic view with
excellent diving, snorkelling
and great relaxation.
Situated in the central area of
Layou, a mere 20 minutes drive
from Kingstown, this beach is
located on the south western
side of the island and is relatively calm.
MOUNT WAYNE
BUCCAMENT
A large expanse of black sand,
lined with shaded trees on the
leeward coast, just 20 minutes
from Kingstown, is generally
calm and an ideal spot for picnics.
A spectacular stretch of white
sand, located just 15 minutes
from Kingstown. The beach
is enclosed as part of the Buccament Bay Resort and offers a
tranquil and private swim in a
warm and inviting atmosphere.
BRIGHTON SALT
POND
CANASH / BLUE
LAGOON
Gaze at the picturesque view
of the volcanic rocks that peek
out of the water and dance
with the waves or become totally immersed by this secluded cove of wonder.
a selection of...
This stretch of alluring black
sand is warm and inviting for
sea, sand or sun worshippers.
Dig your toes into the silky
sand while soaking up some
sun and enjoy the magnificent
view of the boats at the neighbouring marina.
Long Bay Beach on Beef Island
has a long stretch of beach that
is perfect for swimming, snorkelling and scuba diving. Major events and parties are held
at Long Bay because of its vast
area whilst simultaneously giving swimmers and sunbathers
their privacy.
DAWSON’S BEACH BEEF ISLAND
Dawson’s Beach is a small beach
nestled on the southern side of
Beef Island that is suitable for
swimming and sunbathing. The
beach is quiet and perfect for
families.
TRELLIS BAY - BEEF
ISLAND
Trellis Bay is the centre for boating, arts and entertainment on
Beef Island. The shops, galleries, restaurants, bars and docks
along with the swimming areas
make Trellis Bay an ideal spot
to hang out.
CAPPOONS BAY
Cappoons Bay is the site of the
world renowned Bomba Shack.
The beach at Cappoons Bay is
well suited for surfing and in
the evenings everyone heads to
Bomba Shack for a great time.
LONG BAY BEACH
Long Bay Beach in the West
End is a picturesque beach on
the north-western side of Tortola. This beach is great for
swimming, sunbathing and
surfing on a windy day.
SMUGGLER’S COVE
Visitors to Tortola who love
water sports usually head to
Smugglers Cove for fun in the
sun. Smugglers Cove has several eateries and shops and is
ideal for sunbathing, swimming and snorkelling.
BREWERS BAY
NANNY CAY
Visitors fall in love with Brewers Bay because of its camping ground, beautiful scenery, snorkelling and diving.
Located on the north side of
Tortola, Brewers Bay has a
restaurant and a bar as well as
villas in close proximity.
Nestled in Nanny Cay Marina,
the beach at Nanny Cay sits on
Tortola’s south-western side.
Look forward to a comfortable
setting with beach chairs, umbrellas, swimming and scenic
views of the surrounding islands.
23
SOCIAL NETWORKING
SINCE 1873
Photo courtesy of Petrus de Rooij
A Nutmeg Story
Text & photos by Tornia Charles
When most people think of nutmeg, the first thought that
usually comes to mind is the aroma of the spice and the way
it blends with food. Today, however, local Grenadian fashion
designer Ms Jessie-Ann Jessamy demonstrates a totally different perspective on how to conceptualise nutmeg through the
art of fashion design.
Inspired by her Grenadian culture and heritage, Ms Jessamy has
created fabric designs that express what it means to be a West
Indian and more specifically, what it means to be a Grenadian,
by utilising the physical elements associated with her heritage
and culture. So far, she has managed to create three clothing
lines; the sea grape, oil down and the ever popular nutmeg story collection.
Whether it’s a striking handbag for a night out on the town, a
trendy sea grape scarf for work or a fitted nutmeg print dress
for a casual evening with friends, Ms Jessamy’s company “Veronica’s Visions” can assist. The company also produces readyprinted fabric, drapery, cushions, bedding and household
items among other products in these collections.
“The concept began out of the island,” she said. “It is a way of
expressing what you believe makes you a Grenadian. It extends
beyond the culinary aspect and national pride. My work features iconic symbols and is a transfer of historical information
onto the fabric,” she continued. “It is easy to indulge it because
of my background,” speaking of her parents being nutmeg
farmers themselves.
Ms Jessamy’s creativity is further expressed in her
unique showroom on the western side of the island
in the little village of Concord. In 2008, she managed to transform what was once known as the
Concord Nutmeg Processing Station into a rustic
but intriguing showroom and studio, creating the
perfect backdrop for her island inspired collections.
Caribbean
Tales
Although her company was only officially established in 2004, Ms Jessamy’s work has already captured worldwide recognition. Being the winner of the
Fashion and Culture Award at the 2009 World Fashion
Week Show in the Bahamas, officials stated that the
“products seemed to have a life of their own.” Her
work has also been showcased by celebrity co-host
of The View, Ms Sherri Shepherd, in Manhattan, New
York, who described the island as something special.
Today, many people throughout the island flaunt either a dress or handbag, frequently
captivating the eyes of many
curious visitors on the island.
Ms Jessamy welcomes you to
discover authentic Grenada.
According to her, “it is not only about
the destination, it is the experiences
along the way….in your clothes.”
27
Tales
Lake Tanker Pedernales at sea courtesy of
The Morning News Aruba
www.
courtesy of
dernales:
rpedoed Pe
Deck of to
y.com
lago-colon
Caribbean
Kopstoot
Text by Mike Howard
I am just off the intersection of Fokkerstraat and Gutenbergstraat and I am
drinking a Kopstoot, a near frozen Jenever Gin with a beer chaser (if I was
a real traditionalist I’d have poured the shot of gin into a fluted glass and
topped it off with beer). It’s late April, 88 degrees Fahrenheit and I have
a picnic hamper full of stuffed cheese, bitterballen and little meat pies. I
am en route to the white sands of Eagle Beach, trying to decide between
diving one of the two shallow water WWII-era wrecks.
Where am I?
Well, the white sand beach and hot weather would argue against the Netherlands and, except for the WWII wrecks, I could be on any of the islands
of the Kingdom of the Netherlands from Aruba, Bonaire or Curacao, to St.
Maarten, Saba or St. Eustatius. All offer world-class diving, classic tropical
beaches and abundant sea life. In fact, many aficionados rate the ABCs as
the best scuba and snorkelling sites in the world.
But again, those same aficionados would know in a flash that I’m on Aruba.
In my opinion these two wrecks, ES Antilla and SS Pedernales, are a “must
see” for snorkelers and divers alike, amateur or pro. There’s a lot more
stuff out there, including Jane Sea, Debbie II, Star Gerren, California and
not to mention incredible reef and shore dives but ES Antilla and SS Pedernales cemented the events that were to define Aruba’s wartime experience and here they are, tangible and touchable, seventy years later.
For me, their stories are captivating. ES Antilla was built in Hamburg in
1939 and didn’t survive her maiden voyage. She was an Electro Ship, powered by state-of-the-art electrics and run by two steam turbines. She made
Eagle Beach by Mike Howard
28
Wreck Dive Catamaran Tour by Mike Howard
ES Antilla: courtesy of Aruba Bob Snorkelling
ES Antilla: courtesy of Morning News Aruba
Pedernales: courtesy of www.lago-colony
The Morning
SS Pedernales: courtesy of
Amber Jacks courtesy of Aruba Bob Snorkelling
.lago-colony.com
Pedernales courtesy of www
News Aruba
Photo courtesy of www.lago-colony.com
ES Antilla
70 years
later:
courtesy
of Unique
Sports of
Aruba
her initial rounds in the Caribbean, loaded up a cargo of sulphur in Galveston, Texas and was about to head home, when on 28 August 1939, the
Nazis ordered all German merchant vessels unable to return home by 1
September (the date set for invading Poland) to seek neutral harbours.
Her skipper, Captain Schmidt, joined three other German freighters, SS
Consul Horn, SS Heidelberg and SS Troja in Malmok Bay, Aruba, only to
be bottled up by an Anglo/French blockade. On 9 January 1940, SS Consul Horn successfully evaded the allied blockade and, after repainting her
markings and changing identities when challenged, was able to reach safe
port in Europe. Two months later, SS Heidelberg and SS Troja attempted to
run the blockade but were intercepted by British warships in international
waters and chose scuttling over capture.
The Nazis invaded the Netherlands on 10 May 1940 which placed German
merchant shipping in the Netherlands Antilles subject to confiscation and
internment of their crews. When Dutch Marines boarded Antilla, Schmidt
ordered her scuttled. The Antilla’s crew was transported to Bonaire for interment (present site of the Divi Flamigo Hotel). All signs of the internment
camps have vanished with time but Antilla remains.
The old girl sunk in less than 60 feet of water and at 400 feet long, built
to displace over 4,300 tons, she’s one of the largest wrecks in the Caribbean. Largely intact, home to spectacular reef life and only ten minutes
from shore, the Antilla’s superstructure is easily accessible to snorkelers
and both beginner and experienced divers will reap the rewards accessing
compartments, corridors and cargo holds.
Two years after Antilla sank, the war was in full swing. Aruba witnessed the
first U-boat attack on allied shipping in the western hemisphere, when Fregattenkapitan Werner Hartenstein commanded Neuland Gruppe, a wolfpack consisting of five German and two Italian submarines. Hartenstein
ran operation Paukenschlag (drumbeat); his mission to disrupt oil shipments and cripple refining operations between Venezuela and the Antilles.
After stalking the Aruban coast for three days, identifying targets and risks,
Hartenstein, in U-156, surfaced just outside of St. Nicholas Harbour early
in the morning of 15 February 1942. Two British lake tankers, the SS Pedernales and SS Oranjestadt were on anchor within 100 yards of each other.
Hartenstein took out the heavily loaded Pedernales first with a single torpedo amidships and she burst into flames. Oranjestadt was next, sinking
Antilla courtesy of
Unique Sports of Aru
ba
Moray courtesy of Aruba Bob Snorkelling
in 230 feet of water. Hartenstein wasn’t done yet. He surfaced and cruised
northwest to shell the Lago Refinery and storage tanks with his 105mm
deck gun. Fortunately for the Allies and less fortunate for the U-156, the
gun crew failed to remove the big gun’s watertight barrel cap. The barrel ruptured, killing the gunner and seriously injuring the gunnery officer.
Paukenschlag was U-156’s first real combat mission and the oversight could
have been a training issue or simply operator error in the heat of battle.
Either way, it saved the refinery.
With the main gun out of commission, Hartenstein opened up with his
37mm anti-aircraft gun. He fired 16 rounds at the storage tanks but caused
only nominal damage (although a few rounds caused significant damage to
a nearby school). Disgusted, Hartenstein headed north towards the Eagle
Refinery and the 700 foot long Eagle Pier to strike the American tanker SS
Arkansas, firing three torpedoes, seemingly without effect. In fact one torpedo did find its target, just forward of amidships, but as the tanker was still
waiting for its cargo of aviation fuel, the damage, again, was only nominal.
The other two torpedoes failed to detonate and went astray. Having lost
the element of surprise and fearing air attack, Hartenstein broke off the
attack and set course for pro-Vichy Martinique to invalid out his wounded
gunnery officer. As an interesting side note, the gunnery officer survived
the war, was repatriated to Germany and spent the rest of his life unsuccessfully petitioning for an enhanced medical pension based upon his claim
ES ANTILLA
A stamp issued
by Aruba Post Offi
ce- the Pedernale
of www.lago-co
lony.com
s & torpedo: cou
rtesy
that the gun failure and his injury were due to design flaws in the deck gun
and not operator error. U-156 was lost in action, east of Barbados, with all
hands on 8 March 1943.
Pedernales burned all night but stayed afloat and, when morning broke,
was towed to shallow water near Savaneta. The relatively intact front and
aft sections were cut away and welded back together in the Lago dry dock
where she was fitted with a temporary wheelhouse. She steamed to Baltimore under her own power and, after refitting, was returned to service.
She was renamed after the war in 1956 as Esso Pedernales and again in
1958 as Katendrecht before being scrapped in Holland in 1959.
The rest of Pedernales (the largely intact middle section) lies in relatively
shallow water outside St. Nicholas Harbour, about 20 minutes by boat. At
just 25 feet deep, it makes for a great dive for beginners and even after seventy years, sections of cabins, furnishings, wash basins, pipelines and pipe
systems remain surprisingly intact.
Remember those two torpedoes that went astray? One was found the very
next morning on Eagle Beach. Tragically, it exploded as Dutch Marines tried
to disarm it. And the second one? Still missing. So next time you find yourself in Aruba, sipping a Kopstoot and digging your toes into the white sands
of Eagle Beach take a moment to reflect on the island’s rich history.
SS PEDERNALES
Built in: 1939
Built by: Deutsche Werft, Hamburg, Germany
Length: 400ft
Crew: 35 crew members
Int code signal: DKBA
Built in: 1938
Built by: Cantiere Riuniti dell´Adriatico, Monfalcone, Italy
Length: 355ft
Crew: 26 crew members
Int code signal: GNGN
Fact: Antilla had two sister ships, ES Arauca and ES Orizaba, also built
in 1939
Fact: It’s said that the midsection that was left to sink was later on
used as a target for shooting practice by the Dutch Navy.
Fact: Antilla was fitted with two steam turbines connected to an electric motor
Fact: The Aruba Post Office issued a stamp showing Pedernales after
being torpedoed
Fact: The captain decided to scuttle Antilla rather than see her turned
over to the enemy. After putting the crew ashore, he heated up the
boilers, which were amidships and opened the seacock. When the
cold sea water hit the hot boilers, they exploded, ripping the ship in
half. It sank in eight minutes.
Fact: Pedernales was one of many Lake Tankers that ran between
Lake Maracaibo and Aruba supplying the Lago Refinery with the
crude oil it needed to stay in business.
29
Tales
vessel plying the waters of England and Ireland. That bygone era
is perhaps over romanticised, as Irene generally carried a rather
mundane cargo of bricks, tiles, coal and clay. She was designed
to be beached so her load could be transferred to horse-drawn
carts to be delivered to final destinations. After decades of being
powered only by sail, she was fitted with an engine and continued
to deliver loads between communities. She was a part of the British fleet of Merchant Ships in both World Wars and finally retired
and abandoned in 1960. Five years later, she lay derelict but not
without the ability to charm at least one person. Dr. Leslie Morrish
bought the boat and began to restore her, even living aboard her
with his family for a time.
Morrish envisioned a new life for Irene: exclusive charters, settings
for television commercials or fashion shoots. In spite of some unexpected mishaps, this future has been realised: For eight years she
did term charters around the Caribbean, the likes of Mick Jagger
and Pierce Brosnan were noted guests. Irene appeared in films,
too, Pirates of the Caribbean and The Flying Dutchman, as well as
other endeavours.
But then the fire occurred, cause unknown, and there was very
little hope she would ever sail again. Certainly insurance-wise, she
was a total write-off. The fire had consumed the whole vessel, including masts, rigging, deck, deck beams, frames and inner planking. The fire raged for eight hours before Irene sank.
Captain Ottley shared his thoughts about the ship’s unlikely survival: “She sank, right here, as you know,” he pointed not too far
from where we floated. “The owner flew out and against all odds
he decided that we’d try to re-float her and try to get her back to
the UK and he said this to me,” Ottley remembered with a bit of
chagrin, “just as he stepped onto a plane to fly away! So, myself
and one other crew member stayed here and with the help of local salvors we took on that challenge. We re-floated her and took
her over to St. Maarten Shipyard and we boarded up what was
left of the topsides and then put a plywood deck over it, all very
Heath Robinson, as they say. Everyone told us, ‘you’ll never make
it, this is madness.’” They hoped to ship the charred remains of
the vessel back to England on board a freighter or a yacht transporter but were refused again and again. A hardy old schooner,
named Avontuur, had been anchored nearby when Irene burned
and sank and the crusty captain, Paul Wahlens, offered to tow her
to England, which seemed an unlikely proposition, but their best
option.
s/v Irene
For the love of a boat
By Lisa Davis-Burnett
Photos courtesy of SV Irene
The romance of the sea is best caught in the graceful silhouettes of sails
against a distant horizon. The living history of a sailing ship from a bygone era
captures the heart and the imagination. So it has been for a dedicated group
of people known as Friends of Irene. Their love for this vessel that has sailed
the seas for over a hundred years has brought her back from total loss after a
devastating fire in 2003. Irene sails once again, proud and tall, restored to her
former glory.
feet from the tip of her bowsprit to the curve of her stern. The gaff rigged ketch
was recently docked at Marina Fort Louis in Marigot, St. Martin and Caribbean
Beach News went on board for a visit. She is remarkable and rugged, yet
graceful and serene, especially considering what she’s been through. Irene is
clearly ready for her next adventure. After years of painstaking restoration on
the quiet shores of a creek in her native land, Irene’s presence in Marigot is a
bit of a victory. For the owner, Dr. Leslie Morrish, the captain, Laurance Ottley,
and a small army of tireless supporters, it was a date with destiny, they had
to sail her back to this French Caribbean port. That is because this is the site
where, nine years ago, the ship caught fire and sank.
Irene was originally launched in 1907 in Bridgewater, England. She reaches 120
Irene of Bridgewater, as she is formally known, began her life as a trading
30
They headed off, across the Atlantic and, amazingly, made the
passage with little complaint. Ottley related, “so after we’d done
what we could to make her seaworthy, we took her in tow with
Avontuur, the remaining crew member and myself and two local
Rasta guys, Randy and Rufus, and we sailed away and arrived in
the UK 56 days later. We were in good shape, actually. Irene did
not leak a drop. The only threatening weather we had was just off
Cornwall in the south-west of the UK, it nearly scuppered us. So it
was a successful mission to get her home. The preparations were
better than they looked, not that I was particularly confident, I was
just doing my job and as a captain I obviously felt I had an obligation to try to do something, so we just did our best and we got
away with it. It was a long old voyage but it was clear within a few
days that it would work, she towed very well.”
Once in the UK she was lovingly rebuilt, a process that took several
years and is, in fact, still on-going. Irene has been sailing around
Europe and is now back in the West Indies but instead of ferrying
around the rich and famous, she is now a sail training vessel with a
more profound mission in mind. Irene has become one of a new
breed of transport ships, dedicated to proving that the old ways
may hold the answer to the planet’s environmental woes.
It’s a project called New Dawn Traders, a fair transport concept
conceived by environmentalist and now crew member Jamie
Pike. Sometimes called the “slow food movement,” the idea is to
sail, not motor, goods that are well suited to their destination. Using
minimal fossil fuels and thus without creating any significant carbon emissions, sailing vessels such as Irene aim to transport goods
such as olive oil and wine to the Americas and return with spices,
salt and cocoa.
Their next stop is Bayonne, France, for a Tall Ships Festival. After
that, another round of cargo and trainees. SV Irene has been
given a second life and she continues to charm her way into the
hearts of all who see her.
For more info visit www.ireness.com
Technical information
Name:
Built:
Rebuilt:
Overall length
(with bowsprit):
Sails:
Home Port:
Irene of Bridgewater
(aka Irene)
1904 – 07 in Bridgewater,
United Kingdom
2003 -10 in Lynher,
United Kingdom
120 feet
9 sails with a total area
4500 sq ft
Bristol, United Kingdom
Fact: Irene appeared briefly in the film Pirates of
the Caribbean.
Fact: She was built to be beached and often unloaded her cargo into carts to be taken by horse
across the sands to small isolated communities.
Fact: She sailed for 50 years as part of the fleet of
British Merchant vessels.
Fact: Dr. Leslie Moorish paid £2,500 for Irene in
1965.
31
Photo of Zaca a te Moana courtesy of www.MegaYachtPictures.com
Budget Marine wins Captain
Oliver’s Regatta
Budget Marine’s Melges 24, skippered by Chris Marshall, won
on both race days and received the Most Worthy Boat Trophy at this year’s Captain Oliver’s Regatta in Oyster Pond, St.
Maarten.
The regatta, in its eighth year, was started by Olivier Lange,
better known as Captain Oliver. After the Captain passed
away, his “American wife”, as he used to call Maggie, managed, with the help of several volunteers, to keep the regatta
going.
All of the sailors had a blast, not only because of the 20 plus
knots of wind and big waves over the two days but also at the
forever famous parties and excellent buffet.
Although only 22 boats participated, the captain’s slogan
“joie de vivre” has again been honored during this excellent
regatta.
For complete results visit www.coyc-sxm.com
MOUNT GAY RUM BARBADOS REGATTA
‘The rum that invented Rum’
17-20 May 2012
Text & photos by Stephane Ferron
Sponsored by their world famous local rum, the 27th annual Mount
Gay Rum Barbados Regatta again lived up to its name; lots of spirit
and good sailing.
37 boats competed, of which 16 made up the usual dominating J24
fleet. With participation from Barbados, St. Vincent, Grenada and
Trinidad, as well as the UK, there was a definite abundance of Caribbean dialect and culture, which makes this regatta so enjoyable.
Caribbean
Update
A big addition was the 78 ft Maxi Dynamite Idea, which is built by
Reichel Pugh. Skippered by Barbados local Clint Brooks, Mount Gay
Rum chartered the boat to offer a hands-on racing experience to
the press and local kids. 14 kids from the Barbados Learn to Sail
programme were given the chance to learn more about the opportunities that lie at the tip of their opti’s.
The island recently lost the great local sailor Shane Atwell, who was
remembered during a moment of silence at the skippers briefing,
The race committee also named one of the course marks after him,
‘keeping him on the water with all his sailing buddies during this
yearly event’.
Winners of the 4 classes were as following:
Racing A
1. Legacy
2. Whistler
3. C-mos
Cruising A
J24
1. Happy Morning 1. Fully Covered
2. Ribbit
2. Banks Esperanz
3. Jaystar
3. Impulse
Cruising B
1. Vagabond
2. Perseverance
3. MoGuffy
For more information visit www.BarbadosSailing.com and
www.marinechartersint.com
33
update
Caribbean calm
Text & photo by Louise May
Caribbean beaches say “switch off your phone!”
What is a vacation all about? For me it is escaping from
the hustle and bustle of daily life, the incessant ringing of a
phone, the constant “you’ve got mail’ ping from your computer and having the opportunity to really get away from all
the gadgets and technology that we rely on through much
of our modern day life. It is for this reason that a Caribbean
hotel group has taken the surprising step of banning the use
of mobile phones from sections of their beaches.
Elite Islands Resorts, who have a host of resorts across Antigua, Anguilla, Barbados, Grenada, The Grenadines, St Lucia
and Tortola, have implemented this ban in an attempt to
increase relaxation amongst guests and maintain a tranquil
setting.
for all the relaxation power of a holiday to go out the window.”
“Mobile technology and social media give us freedom to
communicate 24/7 but people can find themselves becoming
slaves to them, even on holiday. We want people to have a
break from them, even if it’s just for the few hours they are
on the beach,” she said.
Consumer research showed that 77% of people believed that
time without gadgets and technology would liberate them,
improve their relationships, make them a better person and
give more time to loved ones.
So take time out to enjoy the beach, the scenic backdrops
and embrace the freedom of not being tied to the phone.
Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta
St. Barth’s based classic yacht Lone Fox wins again
Text by Jean Martinique
Photo of Lone Fox courtesy of www.MegaYachtPictures.com
The stage was set at the Copper and Lumber Store Hotel,
situated in the historic Nelson’s Dockyard, for the final prizegiving of the 2012 Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta (ACYR) hosted
by the Antigua Yacht Club. The ceremony was opened by
Chairman Kenny Coombs and amongst the first of the trophies
to be awarded was a stunning half model Carriacou Sloop
Trophy that went to Eli Fuller and his Carriacou Sloop, Zemi.
Mauro from Antigua collected the Hinkley Yachts Trophy for
Classic GRP Class and Antiguan Italian Carlo Falcone, with
Dennis Conner (remember a long time ago the America’s
Cup?) on board Mariella, were awarded the A & F Trophy for
best performance of a local yacht, overall in Vintage Class and
the best elapsed time in Vintage Class.
The beautiful Monaco Yacht Club owned Tuiga won the most
Photogenic Yacht, the Den Phillips Trophy, as well as the
best performance of a Gaff Rigged Yacht whilst the Spirit of
Regatta Trophy went to Richard West’s Charm III from Anguilla
who, following a collision, carried out a speedy overnight
replacement of the bowsprit, made by the local shipwright
company Woodstock Boatbuilders.
“Caribbean holidays are all about kicking back and enjoying
the sun, sea and cocktails but so often people are distracted
by their mobiles or Blackberries,” said Elite Island Resorts
European managing director, Paula Whitehead.
“You only have to see an email from work on the sun-lounger
Mary Rose won the Nicholsons Caribbean Yacht Sales Trophy
and the Marine Power Services Trophy for the oldest boat was
awarded to Coral of Cowes. Captain Sparky, of Antigua based
Rebecca, collected First Overall Spirit of Tradition prize and
Elena was awarded The Beken of Cowes Trophy for the Best
Elapsed Time in the Schooner Class. Saphaedra was announced
first overall in the Classic & Vintage Class whilst Mariella won
the Mount Gay Rum Trophy. The most competitive class this
year was the Vintage Class.
MCA
MCA Recognized Courses
Master 200 ton Coastal
Master 200 ton Offshore
Master 200 ton Ocean
STCW'95, PWC ( Wave Runners ),
Mega Yacht Crew, RIB/Tender/VHF
course, GMDSS, Bareboat Captain,
ISPS, Stewardess course etc.
e-mail: info@MaritimeSchool.net
Free taxi boat service to all lagoon marinas!
Maritime School of the West Indies
St.Martin French West Indies
Phone: +590590510495 or +1721 5231209 or +596 696 261612
www.MaritimeSchool.net
34
Info@MaritimeSchool.net
en - St.Mar
t
r
a
a
M
tin
St .
Kenny Coombs himself received two awards, the ‘Old Bob’
award for 25 years at the helm of ACYR and an additional special
prize from Signor Angelo Bonati, CEO of Officine Panerai.
The famous video of the band Duran Duran’s single Rio
featuring the Panerai yacht Eilean was shown ahead of Simon
Le Bon taking to the stage with his fellow band members and
saying how much he had enjoyed sailing aboard Eilean again
during the regatta, remembering that back in the days of Rio
she was the first big boat he had ever sailed upon. He then
awarded the Panerai Trophy for the boat with the Best Total
Corrected Time to the St. Barth’s based 1957 Marconi Ketch
Lone Fox owned by Ira Epstein, for the second year running,
helmed this year by well known Antigua resident sailor Don
Ward.
The beautiful classic Lone Fox will participate again in next
year’s St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta during
the last weekend of March 2013 in a bid to win the perpetual
trophy against the Anguillan yacht Charm III, in a third time
consecutive race win over the last six years.
C la
ssic Y
13
0
2
acht Regatta
March 29-30-31, 2013
www.ClassicRegatta.com
Visit www.AntiguaClassics.com for more info.
Information about the St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht
Regatta 2013 is available at www.ClassicRegatta.com and
www.ClassicYachtClub.com
35
update
Pasanggrahan
Pasanggrahan Royal Guesthouse: The best kept secret in St. Maarten
Photos by Jean Jarreau
Pasanggrahan is an Indonesian word for a guesthouse
or a place to rest. The guesthouse was formerly the Governor’s Royal Residence for VIP guests from all over the
world. This pretty little guesthouse is located on the main
street in the heart of Philipsburg, on a long white sandy
beach and surrounded by a beautiful tropical garden.
Upon entering the guesthouse, the lounge is decorated
with the original portrait of the late Queen of the Netherlands, Wilhelmina, and a picture of the former Queen
of the Netherlands, Princess Juliana, who the St. Maarten
airport is named after. These treasures, together with,
centuries-old antiques and furnishings, represent the tradition and charm of historic St. Maarten. It is welcoming
and very inviting.
The Pasanggrahan has featured in many newspapers,
36
magazines and television editorials all over the world
with regards to its charm, its authenticity, its success as
well as its beauty. Guests from all continents, fellow Caribbean islanders, cruise ship passengers and, most of all,
repeat clientele from North America and Europe, who
have stayed at the guesthouse over a period of 20 - 35
years, have always enjoyed their visit. In addition to the
Royal Family of Holland, famous guests include Sydney
Greenstreet, the actor, for whom the main bar is named
after, James Michener, the novelist, Joseph Biden, the
Vice President of the United States and John Glenn, the
astronaut.
In September 1995, the unforgettable vicious hurricane
Luis destroyed most of the old buildings and trees. In August 1996, the owner, Tini Tinitali, began a long and costly
reconstruction project which was completed in 2011. At
the time of writing, the guesthouse has forty rooms; four
standard rooms off the beach, fifteen deluxe oceanfront
rooms, six specialty oceanfront rooms, twelve luxurious
oceanfront spa suites with kitchenette and a penthouse
apartment with three bedrooms and a fantastic view of
Great Bay Harbour and the Atlantic Ocean. All rooms
are furnished with four poster Caribbean mahogany
beds with mosquito netting and have individual balconies, Wi-Fi and classic yacht photographs from photographer Jean Jarreau. The St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic
Yacht Club is also hosted at the hotel.
As a certified captain of the 40ft Platinum Riviera,
an Australian built fishing boat, Tini Tinitali supplies
the restaurant with freshly caught fish almost daily,
weather permitting of course, and fresh lobsters from
the island of Saba. The Pasanggrahan Restaurant has
become justifiably popular due to the consistency of
fresh food and good service. Its operations have expanded to cater for wedding receptions, yachting
groups and fishing and golf parties, all of whom are
looked after by a well-trained and professional staff.
Mr Tini Tinitali has been the Managing Director of the
hotel, bar and restaurant since the late 1980’s. He has
29 years of experience in the hotel, bar and restaurant industry with the US Merchant Marines for Matson
Line, Mariposa & Sealand Line, Delta Line and American Hawaii cruises. He attended and graduated
from the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco, California as a French Chef and Pastry Chef. His
wife, Oli Tinitali, is a “barefoot” native of Samoa in the
South Pacific. She landscapes the grounds with the
assistance of her two little Samoan princesses, Nainiu
& Sinalele.
For reservations: pasanggrahan@caribserve.com
Telephone: 00 599 542 3588/542 2743
Fax: 00 599 542 2885
The St. Maarten - St. Martin Classic
Yacht Club at The Pasanggrahan Hotel
The St. Maarten - St. Martin Classic Yacht Club will officially
open their clubhouse on Saturday 6 October 2012. The
St. Maarten - St. Martin Classic Yacht Club is a non-profit
foundation first registered on 22 April 2005 with Civil Law
Notary Office Boekhoudt Steeman as the St. Maarten - St.
Martin Classic Yacht Regatta Foundation.
Hosted over the past few years at Bobby Velasquez’s marina (Bobby’s Marina), the name later changed to The St.
Maarten - St. Martin Classic Yacht Club Foundation and
the club is now hosted at the Pasanggrahan Royal Guesthouse and Hotel situated at 19 Front Street on the Great
Bay Beach Boardwalk, Philipsburg.
The foundation not only organises regattas but, from
2013 onwards, will also offer sailing lessons on classic
boats and yachts and counts on organising weekly regattas, mainly for local boat owners in Great Bay. The foundation is also looking to purchase a classic boat or yacht in
order to teach local youngsters how to sail on gaff rigged
37
ST
untouched
The Pasanggrahan Hotel will have pictures of classic yachts by
photographer Jean Jarreau in all of the rooms, lobby and other
areas while the Classic Yacht Club will decorate the bar with
ship’s antiques, vintage pictures and marine memorabilia.
Owners of the Pasanggrahan, Tini and his wife Oli, have always
been very accommodating and cooperative with the Classic
Yacht Club organisation throughout the years during earlier
Classic Regattas organised by the club, last year’s Multihull Regatta and other regattas.
The Classic Yacht Club Bar will be inside the old hotel building,
next to the restaurant, with an open view towards the beach.
The special Yacht Club day will be every Saturday, starting on 6
October 2012. As from 4.30pm until closing time each Saturday,
all yacht club members will receive two drinks for the price of
one. A 10% discount on restaurant food will also be offered every day to all members upon presentation of their Classic Yacht
Club membership card. The hotel’s regular Garden Bar and Res-
N
and other specially rigged vessels.
RTEN - ST.MA
RT
AA
.M
I
taurant are open
every day.
A complete line
of Classic Yacht
Club
sailing
Classic Yacht
wear such as tClub
shirts, caps, polo
shirts, sweaters,
Bermuda shorts, jackets, watches and much more will be available for purchase at the yacht club and hotel from October 2012
as well as through a secure server on the club’s website.
Club members and invited guests will receive invitations for the
Classic Yacht Club’s official opening at the beginning of October.
Classic yacht enthusiasts that want to become members can
apply on the web site at www.ClassicYachtClub.com
ST. MAARTEN IN SHORT...
Area: 95 km2 / 37 square miles
Consists of: one island, two nations
Population: 77,000
Capital city: Dutch Side: Philipsburg
French side: Marigot
Official language: Dutch & French
Currency: US Dollar, Antillean Guilder & Euro
Electricity: 110 & 220 volts
Fact:
The Treaty of Concordia of 1648, where French and
Dutch settlers agreed that the people of St. Martin/St.
Maarten shall coexist in a cooperative manner, is the
oldest international treaty which is still being enforced.
Fact:
Legend has it that over 350 years ago, the Dutch and
the French wished to draw a border on the island. It was
decided that a race should be held and the French
man would follow the coastline to the North and the
Dutch man to the South. Once they met again, a line
would be drawn between the starting point and the
meeting point to define the border. Both men choose
beverages according to their culture: the French man
a bottle of red wine, the Dutch man a bottle of Genever (Dutch Gin). The gin slowed down the Dutch man
and as a result lost quite some territory. St. Martin now
covers two thirds of the 37 square mile island.
Fact:
Princess Juliana International Airport is famous for
its short landing strip. Planes approach the island
flying extremely low, right over Maho Beach.
For this reason it has become a favourite
place for plane spotters.
Fact:
There is thought to
be over 100 different
nationalities of people living on the island.
Exclusive Yachting Photography
A Caribbean based media
agency is looking for:
Graphic Designer
www.MegaYachtPictures.com
Aerials-On Board-On the Water-Interiors-Food-Sailing-On Anchor
info @ MegaYachtPictures.com
Phone:+590690629955 +33647123910
38
Contact us for all your Life Raft
needs.
We provide Life Raft Servicing,
Repair, Rental Rafts, New and
Second Hand Rafts
Check out our web site for more
information and drop off locations
Official Life Raft Service Station in the Caribbean
St.Martin-St.Maarten
Phone: +590690744330
e-mail: info@LifeRaftsEtc.com
web site: www.LifeRaftsEtc.com
Photo editing, magazine design and
lay out, product packaging design
and development for clients, website
design, logo design, flyers and brochures.
Advertising Sales Manager
For the Caribbean (advertising sales
and set up of sales network)
to work out of our St. Martin office.
E-mail CV with picture to:
info@JeanJarreauMedia.com
39
The beach interview
update
Text by Jean Martinique
Make up, styling & photo assistance by Valerie Malt
Photos by Jean Jarreau
CBN: A photo model and two girls who participated in Miss elections graced the previous covers of CBN. Are you the next one?
Debbie: Absolutely not! I’m just a regular
Dutch girl, not a model at all. I have been
in St. Maarten for about nine months now
and work on the day charter catamarans
for Eagle Tours. I studied “Integrale Veiligheidskunde” in Holland which you could
translate as “Complete Safety Management.”
CBN: What brought you to the Caribbean?
Debbie: I left the Netherlands in 2010 together with
another girl.
CBN: Where is the other girl?
Debbie: (laughs) This is actually a funny story. I had
plans to start travelling after finishing my studies and
I, of course, have a lot of friends, both girls and boys,
but I did not want to go travelling with a good friend.
I wanted someone that I did not know at all. So I
started to look on the internet and found a great girl
to travel with me.
CBN: Why did you have to look on the internet for
a friend if you already have friends that you have
known for a long time?
Debbie: Well, my reasoning was that if you have a
friendship with someone already for a long time and
then you go travelling together for a year or more
you will probably lose that friend because you will
be together 24 hours a day. I did not want to risk
years of friendship so I did it with someone I did not
Debbie: Well, that was also one of the aims when I started travelling, to find out what I wanted to do later on in my life, but I don’t
have the answer as yet (smiles). There are many possibilities and,
of course, the mega yacht sector pays a lot of money so that is
for sure a possibility. I just completed my STCW’95 at the Maritime
School of the West Indies and I will probably do more courses.
Even on the catamaran I need to have those papers and it is
always good to have it for the future.
I had a few ideas about what I wanted to do before I started
travelling but the world became only bigger so now I have no
idea at all. I’m only 23 so I still have some time. I just take it day
by day and we will see what the future brings. Maybe I will never
figure out what I want to do (smiles).
CBN: What about your family? Do they approve of your choice?
CBN: What can you do with this qualification?
Debbie: You learn how to organise and coordinate the major safety services like police, fire fighters and ambulances in emergency situations. I studied in Den Haag and
would have probably ended up in an office doing
a lot of paperwork but that’s not really what I wanted to spend the rest of my life doing. I love to be
outside and in the field. I understand that there will
always be office work involved but if it is only that
then I don’t want to do it. I was offered a contract in
Holland but I declined. I believe that there are more
possibilities, for example, in the Caribbean and if I
would go back to Holland I would probably join the
police as a detective but that’s not the case, as yet.
I feel happy in the Caribbean (smiles).
40
know at all. However, it turned out that she became
a great friend during and after our travels. We visited Tobago, Trinidad, Suriname, to name a few and
lived for eight months in Curacao and five months in
St. Maarten. When we returned to Holland she de-
Debbie van den Berg
cided to stay there while I still wanted to continue
travelling. I then received a job offer on a boat in St.
Maarten and I’m still here.
CBN: Why did you decide to go with a girl and not
with a boy?
Debbie: Well, if you do this as a girl travelling with
a boy I think it would be difficult to not become involved with one another. The same is true if it would
be two lesbian girls travelling together but of course
that was not the case here! I just wanted a friend to
travel with and nothing more. With a girl I can have
“girly” chats and I think it’s easier to understand
each other. Of course you can do this as well with a
boy or a boyfriend, but then it’s a different situation,
I think (smiles).
Debbie: I think so. I have an older and a younger brother. The
younger one is a great kite surfer so he travels a lot as well and
the older one is married and expecting his first baby, so hopefully
I will have the possibility to visit when the baby is born.
CBN: Holland is only eight hours flight time away from here so
that’s not a big problem.
Debbie: Well, it’s not the time, if I can get away from my job, but
it is more a question of money. The flights to Europe are expensive
and during my travels I did not work a lot so I need to be careful
with my finances. I love my sailing job but I will not get rich from
that. Or maybe by that time I’ll be back in Holland working there
although I don’t really want to go back. I could also start studying
again. Who knows?
CBN: What would you like to study?
Debbie: Well, IF I go back to Holland to study, I am interested
in studying Criminology and it would also be useful for a future
police or security job. Again, I’m still young but one day I guess
that I would love to have a steady job, a man, kids, a house and
money (smiles)!
CBN: Take your time and in the meantime, keep sailing!
CBN: I guess that you were lucky finding a girl that
had a similar personality and who could be around
you for long periods of time.
Debbie: Well, in actual fact she was the complete
opposite of me! But, and I guess it works the same
way in love relationships, opposites attract. We always got along with one another. When I had had
too much, she had had not enough or the other way
around. I learned a lot from her and she also learned
a lot from me, so it was perfect. The purpose of this
adventure was to learn about yourself and that
worked out for both of us.
CBN: You told me earlier that you enjoyed your job
on a catamaran sailing to Tintamarre Island and
around St. Maarten. Are you now looking for a career on a boat or maybe on a mega yacht instead
of in the security business?
41
JOURNEYING TO PARIA BAY
The hidden gem of Trinidad’s north coast
Text & photos by Danielle Boodoo-Fortuné
Paria Bay is definitely not your typical weekend beach destination. You will find
no umbrellas, no vendors along its ribbon of white-gold sand. There is no music,
no roar of distant traffic, nothing to distract from the pristine beauty of one of
Trinidad’s last untouched beaches. Paria is truly an experience and is nothing
short of unforgettable.
There are no roads leading to the bay: it is only accessible by boat or by an eight
mile hike along a lush rainforest trail. Whether you are an avid outdoorsman or
merely a sightseer, you will find it impossible not to be enchanted by the walk
through the stunning forest. The Paria Trail, originally made as a transportation
route for donkeys carrying supplies to the isolated community, is used now for
both hiking and biking. The trail and the entire surrounding areas are diligently
maintained by the Brasso Seco Paria Tourism Action Committee, a communitybased group formed by villagers seeking to preserve the area.
The villagers’ passion and commitment is with good reason: The Brasso Seco/
Paria Valley is an environmentally diverse area teeming with birds, butterflies and
hundreds of other forms of wildlife. It is not uncommon to see large, striking blue
butterflies fluttering near the trail or tiny green hummingbirds lingering at the
wildflowers which line the path. Also along the path you just might hear the loud,
haunting call of the bell-bird. The valley is a bird-watcher’s dream.
Caribbean
Untouched
For the first few miles of the trail, the atmosphere is one of utter peace and immersion in nature. As the hike grows progressively more challenging and the
muscles begin to tire, the distant roar of the ocean wafts across the towering
trees along with the sharp tang of sea-salt, enticing you to continue. Stepping
out of the thick green forest and onto the half-mile expanse of glorious beach is
a sensation which is impossible to describe: it can only be experienced firsthand.
While Trinidad’s beaches are not typically renowned for their picture-postcard
appeal, Paria Bay easily brings to mind visions of island paradise. One cannot help
but describe its silky smooth sand and warm, clear waters as heavenly, particularly after several long hours of hiking. Walk to the western end of the beach and
you will come face to face with the stunning Cathedral Rock, which has been
eroded by the surf into a spectacular arch. At the far eastern end of the beach
is the mouth of the river and a freshwater pool which is a good, calm spot for
bathing.
Some choose to make the return trip by boat and others choose to camp overnight before making the eight-mile journey back through the Paria Forest. For
overnighters, luck and good timing will afford the chance to witness the magnifi-
cent Leatherback Turtles nesting along the beach. The return
hike, however, also provides the opportunity to stop at the
refreshing and beautiful Paria Waterfall, which is a short distance from the bay and a sight to behold in its own right.
The total sixteen mile journey along the Paria Trail will no
doubt leave you weary and exhausted but it will also leave
you truly spellbound and enchanted by the wild beauty of
the bay and of the verdant Paria Brasso Seco Valley. This is a
side of busy, bustling Trinidad that is not to be overlooked
and is truly an experience which is not to be missed.
43
untouched
Most people park, take pictures, and then get back in their
cars and continue on their way. Fair enough, but this unique
spot is a great place to spend much of a day, wade over to
the islands, bring a picnic lunch and explore the untouched
islands of Coralita Point.
If you want to wade across to the islands, you need to prepare. First of all, as with any remote location on any island,
don’t leave valuables in your car. Secondly, consider your
feet. Wear old sneakers or plastic shoes that are fully attached
to your feet, no flip-flops, they float away in the current. Watch
your step, the water will be ankle deep most of the way, but
can drop down to chest deep if the tide is in. Be prepared to
carry your pack over your head if necessary. Each step must
be taken with care, as you are literally treading on an ecosystem.
The Art of Tide Pooling
The Greek poetess Sappho wrote in 630 BC “if you are squeamish, don’t prod the beach rubble.” Squeamish or not, we highly
recommend prodding beach rubble. But there is a right way
and a wrong way to do it. Coralita offers much to delight naturalists. Tiny jewel-coloured fish dart among the rocks. Snails,
crabs and sea urchins abound. They are generally so shy that
one must be quick to see them! We have usually been lucky
enough to uncover a tide pooler’s
favourite find, the elusive and wiggly brittle star.
Tide Pooling
A nature lover’s dream!
Text by Lisa Davis-Burnett
Photos by Tom Burnett
A drive along the eastern coast of St. Martin reveals soft green hillsides with
rocky outcrops jutting through. Nature maintains a foothold here. Around
one bend the coastline transitions to rugged and rock-strewn, scattered
with bits of coral and volcanic rock. As you drive along you will notice some
tiny outlying islands are just off shore. There is a place to park, a look-out
tower has been erected, complete with signage describing the birds and
other wildlife that can be observed. This is the Coralita Point, maintained by
the Réserve Naturelle of St. Martin.
Tide pooling follows the rule of the
ecology-minded hiker: “Take nothing but photos, leave nothing but
foot prints, kill nothing but time.” Be
aware of the animals, algae and
plants that you are disturbing. Keep
your disruption of their lives brief
and gentle.
Fish – Tide pools are like fish nurseries. Many species of juvenile
fish are present in these shallows.
Sea Urchins – spiny and circular, attached to the undersides
of rocks
Black sea urchins – very sharp, lift carefully by one needle-like
spine. A word to the wise, whatever you do, don’t step on
these!
White sea urchins – less sharp, easily lifted and examined, the
mouth is on the underside
Snails – many varieties, mostly small, their shells litter the beaches
Antillean nerites - unique to this area of the world, tiny black
and white checkerboard patterned snail shells
Conch – larger shells with majestic whorls and spires, inside the
shell is bright pink
Chitons – found on the rocks, strongly attached and immoveable
Trumpets, tritons, star snails and many others!
Clams – many clam shells will be seen on the beach. White
lucine shells, gold coloured gem clams and Caribbean Sun
clams are among the
many.
“Take nothing but photos, leave nothing but foot
prints, kill nothing but
time.”
The tide pooler will often lift a rock or piece of coral to see
what is underneath. Do so slowly and, if you choose to, delicately pull your specimen off the rock to show your friends.
Then replace it back the way it was. The down side should
go back down in the same place it was. Many creatures are
hiding from predators there, for instance, fish love to eat brittle
stars! Let them survive their close encounter with you and live
to tell their grandchildren about it!
What you might find
You will certainly find a variety of creatures. The shallows offer
tiny animals protection from the larger world of deep water.
The bright sunlight allows the colours to be seen without the
filtering aspects of a metre or more of water between the sun
and what you are looking at.
Of course, you will see birds, flowers and other bits of lovely
nature on your excursion to Coralita. Here is a list of what you
might see in the tide pools, in order of likelihood:
Sea Weed – green, brown or reddish, many species can be
observed, including turtle grass, sargassum and pennicilus,
sometimes called “Neptune’s shaving brush.”
Coral – bits that have broken off the reefs offshore
Brain coral – dome shaped and resembling a brain’s grooved
surface
Finger coral – shape and size of a finger, more or less
Star coral – surface is covered with star like features
Elkhorn/staghorn corals – the shape resembles the horns of
those great animals
44
Sea Fan – looks like a plant, but like all corals, its an animal
Crabs – Hermit crabs, fiddler crabs, etc.
Sea Anenomes – Soft
bodied animals that are
attached to the rocks.
They can be purple, pink
or other colours. They
have soft tentacles that feel sticky.
Star Fish – related to the sea urchins, which also have fivefold
circular symmetry.
Classic Caribbean Star fish - big slow moving, yellow-orange
on top and white underneath.
Brittle Stars – black or red, fast moving, wiggly and weird, brittle
stars can break off their legs very easily so handle with care.
If you drop them in the water fish will come in and eat them
quickly, so replace them on the bottom where they can hide
immediately.
Sea Slugs – very rare, these are basically snails that have no
shell. They swim through the shallows by undulating their frilly
edges.
Octopus – the master of camouflage, very elusive and rare.
Look for his refuse pile outside his home in the rocks: a pile of
broken shells. He might be in the crevice of the rocks nearby.
Seahorse – Very hard to find, they may be hiding in the seaweeds, with their tails curled around a sea grass fibre. They are
small and well camouflaged.
Picnic Time!
Don’t forget to bring along some fruit, cheese, sandwiches
and drinks. Also a blanket to sit on. Make a day of it, enjoy
the beauty of nature and explore the little islands. Just remember to respect the environment by packing up whatever you
bring. Keep it pristine and beautiful for the next visitor.
45
untouched
Great Escape
to St Lucia
The Diamond Botanical Gardens
Text & photos by Fernelle Neptune
The pearl of the peninsula …
The Diamond Botanical Gardens in St. Lucia, known for their majestic location and
true tropical beauty are, without a doubt,
a sightseeing opportunity that cannot be
missed. This historic award-winning tourism
site which features a fine coloured waterfall
and mineral hot spring baths is definitely a
feast for the eyes.
Visitors are taken aback by the beauty of the
tropics whilst strolling through the 2,000
acres of lush land, located on the Soufriere
estate. Take a walk through the splendid gardens on a paved pathway amongst a diverse
assortment of flowering plants and shrubs
planted beneath the cocoa and coconut
trees. The Diamond Botanical Gardens are
brightened by the sight of colourful Hibiscus, Ixora, Balisier, Begonia and Pink Torch
Ginger flowers as well as many more vibrant
plants.
Impossible to be compared to any other in
the Caribbean, the picturesque and colourful waterfall is unquestionably a magnificent
sight to be seen. The mixture of rainwater and minerals from the volcano sulphur
springs and underground hot springs appear
to change colour often allowing this waterfall to be considered unique.
Slipping into swimwear and soaking in the
therapeutic waters of the mineral baths,
which are fed by the underground hot
springs, is a soothing and relaxing way to
complete a visit to the island. The mineral
bath is highly recommended for people suffering from rheumatism and sore joints and
muscles. Visitors can enjoy a bath in the
clear warm waters with a choice of private
or public bathing areas. For the convenience
of the visitors, changing rooms are available.
Be sure to stop at the souvenir shop and restaurant to enjoy a taste of St. Lucian food
and drink.
Other attractions at the gardens include a
display of locally grown fruit and vegetables,
a bird sanctuary, an aqueduct and the Diamond Falls River.
This natural heritage site is the ideal place
for travellers, families and friends to spend
the day amongst the flora and fauna. The
gardens are open to the public from 10am
to 5pm, Monday to Saturday and 10am to
3pm on Sundays, costing US$5 per person.
definitively a luxurious residence…
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46
Galleries Jean Jarreau - Opening December 2012
Fine Photography Art and Marine Antiques
Marina Royale 19 • 97150 Marigot • St. Martin • French West Indies • www.GalleriesJeanJarreau.com • +590 590 510 495