counterskills - Alliance Healthcare

training
skills
July - August 2012
COUNTERSKILLS
training programme
Head and hair care
hair loss
7
workbook
head lice
scalp conditions
shampoos and
conditioners
colouring products
styling products
skill builder:
advising confidently
using WWHAM
activities & assessment
merchandising aid
Supported by:
Head and hair care
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Alphega Pharmacy team continue to offer comprehensive support and training
packages for the whole pharmacy team. For more information please contact:
Member Support on membersupport@alphega-pharmacy.co.uk or speak to your
Alliance Healthcare account manager.
Content developed by:
2 Counterskills
Head and hair care
Market overview
The total head and hair care market is valued
at £1.16bn* annually and is made up of hair
loss, head lice and mass hair care. Pharmacy
contributes £49m to this.
Pharmacy has a strong advantage in the
head lice category. Shoppers are mostly
young mothers, a demographic well suited to
pharmacy, and often seek advice with their
first purchase. This advantage is reflected in
pharmacy’s 38% market share in head lice
treatments. This is a seasonal category and sales
peak during back to school periods.
Hair loss is the fastest growing sub category
within head and hair; its value has grown 57%
since last year in the retail market, and even
more in pharmacy. This is predominantly being
driven by NPD. Hair loss can be a sensitive subject
and people often seek advice with purchase, so
it is important to have good, up-to-date product
knowledge and handle any enquiries delicately.
Although pharmacy’s share of the mass hair care
market is very small at 3.4%, the huge value of
this market means that there is still £38m spent in
pharmacies each year; almost 80% of the value
of head and hair overall. New product releases,
TV advertising and offers have a big impact in this
category, so offerings in store should be tailored
towards popular brands and latest trends.
3%
18%
Head & Hair
Pharmacy
Market Value
HAIR LOSS
79%
HEAD LICE
HAIR CARE
Merchandising guidelines;
In order to help customers browse, your head &
hair fixture should be grouped by sub-category;
allocating space roughly in line with the
contribution each area makes to the total value.
So it would follow that mass hair care should
make up roughly 80% of the fixture. Within
this shampoos and conditioners should occupy
around half, colourants 30% and styling 20%.
Use the highest shelves for the medicated areas
like hair loss, head lice and scalp treatments.
Flow down into shampoos and conditioners,
followed by colourants and then finishing with
styling products at the bottom.
Group products by brand and pair matching
shampoos and conditioners next to each other
on shelf.
1% 2%
Head & Hair Total
Market Value
HAIR LOSS
97%
HEAD LICE
HAIR CARE
As promotions are large drivers in mass hair
care, on shelf point of sale material helps to
draw attention and increase sales. Having
products in a secondary location in store will
also help drive impulse sales, try an area that
has high footfall like on the route from the door
to the pharmacy counter.
Counterskills 3
Head and hair care
Section 1: Introduction
The word hair often refers to two distinct
structures. The first structure is beneath the
skin, and is called the hair follicle. This is
located in the dermis (a layer of skin) and
maintains stem cells which re-grow the hair
after it falls out. The only living portion of the
hair is found there.
The second structure is the hair shaft. This
is the hard thread part that extends above
the skin’s surface. The hair shaft has no
biochemical activity and is considered dead. A
cross section of the hair shaft may be divided
roughly into three zones. These are the:
• Medulla
• Cortex
• Cuticle.
The medulla
The cortex
The cortex is the main body of the hair
composed of elongated and spindle shaped
cells. It contains cortical fusi (irregular shaped
airspaces of varying sizes), melanin (pigment
which gives hair its colour), and/or large oval to
round-shaped structures called ovoid bodies.
These are commonly found near the root of
human hair, although they may be present
throughout the length of the hair.
The cuticle
The hair cuticle is the outermost part of the
hair shaft. It is a hard shingle like layer of
overlapping dead cells, some five to twelve
deep. This gives the hair shaft strength and
provides protection for the softer inner
structure including the medulla and cortex.
The cuticle controls the water content of the
hair shaft. Much of the shine that makes
healthy hair so attractive is due to the cuticle.
The medulla is a central core of cells that
is present in the hair. If it is filled with air, it
appears as a black or opaque structure under
transmitted light, or as a white structure
under reflected light. If it is filled with a clear
substance, then it appears clear or translucent
in transmitted light, or nearly invisible in
reflected light. The medulla has no particular
pattern or structure to it.
Hair shaft
Cuticle
Cortex
Medulla
Follicle
4 Counterskills
Head and hair care
Cuticles are often damaged by activities such
as brushing, using heat (e.g. curling tongs) or
chemical processing (e.g. perming). Everyday
elements, such as the sun or wind can also
cause wear and tear on the hair and damage
the hair cuticles as well.
Hair is generally consistent in colour and
pigmentation throughout the length of the hair
shaft. Two types of pigment give hair its colour:
eumelanin and pheomelanin. Pheomelanin
colours hair red. Eumelanin, which has two
subtypes of black or brown, determines the
darkness of the hair colour.
Characteristics
A low concentration of brown eumelanin
results in blond hair, whereas a higher
concentration of brown eumelanin will colour
the hair brown. High amounts of black
eumelanin result in black hair, while low
concentrations give gray hair. All humans have
some pheomelanin in their hair.
Hair is made up of:
• 80% protein, primarily keratin
• 10-15% water
• 5-10% pigments, minerals
and lipids.
These elements are deposited in the hair during
its growth and/or absorbed by the hair from an
external environment.
Hair serves to keep us warm or to cool us down
(when sweat evaporates from soaked hair) as
well as to protect us from ultra violet light.
Counterskills 5
Head and hair care
Section 2: Hair loss
Hair loss (alopecia)
Hair loss (or alopecia) is not uncommon and
affects around 50% of women and 90% of
men. Hair is lost every day (between 50-200
hairs) as part of the normal hair growth cycle.
Hair can be five years old before it is shed and
a new hair appears in its place. As we age
however, the amount of time a hair lasts for
can be reduced (less than two years). Eventually
re-growth stops, leading to thinning of the
hair. This thinning can then lead to noticeable
patches of hair loss on the scalp. This can be
embarrassing and make people self conscious
about their image.
Symptoms
Hair starts to thin and/or recede. It can be due
to one or more of the following:
he ageing process; hair can be lost in
•Tresponse
to a change in androgen levels
(male hormone which exists in both men
and women). This can start at puberty
and continue into the late sixties
hair loss and how it occurs can
•Gbeenetics;
inherited
6 Counterskills
medication or therapy (such
•Pasrescribed
chemotherapy which may be used to
treat cancer) can sometimes cause the
loss of hair
•Harsh treatment and styling of the hair.
Treatment
Treatment is with minoxidil. This is available in
two strengths, 2% and 5%. The 2% can be
recommended for both men and women and
the 5% should only be used in men.
It is rubbed into the scalp twice a day and
usually takes three or more months for any
effects to be visible. It should be used on an
ongoing basis and can help to prevent further
loss of hair and aids re-growth.
It is only suitable for customers over 18 and
under 60 years of age.
Head and hair care
MEMBE
R
RE
T
n TO
W
io
at
ho is it for?
ou will need to know the age and gender of your customer
Y
to help you decide the best course of action
INform
W
N
WWHAM!
Section 0: Lorem ipsun
•
PORTA
IM
hat are the symptoms?
Refer to the Pharmacist if:
The customer has severe scaling of the scalp or it looks like there
may be an infection of the scalp
H
ow long have they had the symptoms?
Refer to the Pharmacist if:
Any symptoms are getting worse
A
ctions taken so far:
Refer to the Pharmacist if:
Medication has been tried already and caused irritation, itching
or a burning sensation
M
edication, if any, taken at the moment?
Refer to the Pharmacist if:
The answer is yes
Counterskills 7
Head and hair care
ACTIVITY
A woman of about 45 comes into your
pharmacy. She says that large amounts of her
hair have been falling out over the last few weeks.
She asks for some advice on what she should do.
Write in the box below what you would do in this situation.
my r
we
ans
Ask your Pharmacist to review your answer and discuss it with you if required.
8 Counterskills
Product recommendations Head and hair care
Regaine
Key attributes:
•Regaine
for Men Extra Strength Scalp Foam
5% w/w Cutaneous Foam contains minoxidil –
the only clinically proven medicinal ingredient
available over the counter for hereditary hair loss
•Regaine® Foam is designed to dissolve into
the scalp where it is absorbed. The Foam is
unscented and dries quickly
•Results may be seen in as little as eight weeks
®
•9 out of 10 men who used Regaine® Foam say
they kept or re-grew hair after four months of
using it twice daily. Clinically tested on 352 men
suffering from hereditary hair loss2
Further information is available
from McNeil Products Ltd,
Foundation Park, Roxborough Way,
Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 3UG.
Why recommend:
•95% of men are upset about their hair loss and
93% are worried about further hair loss1
OTHER
ADVICE
GSL
1
Cash et al. J Am Acad Dermat 1993; 29 (4): 570-571 2 Olsen et al. J Am Acad Dermat 2007; 57 (5): 767-774
Apply Regaine® Foam twice daily. Towel dry or blow dry hair before application. Apply Regaine®
directly onto the scalp. If styling aids are used ensure Regaine is completely dry before application. Wash
hands after application. Ensure Regaine® is completely dry before swimming. Let Regaine® dry before going
to bed. It takes on average around four months before you see real regrowth.
Viviscal
Key attributes:
•Food supplement that has been specially
formulated to tackle the problem of thinning
hair by supporting natural healthy hair growth
•Supplements are scientifically formulated and
exclusively contain Amino Mar C™ a 100%
natural rich compound of marine extracts as well
as the important nutrients Biotin and Zinc, which
help to maintain normal healthy hair growth
from within
•Viviscal Fibres are scientifically formulated
with Keratin, come in a range of colours and
effectively cover up areas of thinning hair
•Simply shake the fibres from the tub onto the
areas of thinning hair, can be used by both men
and women
Why recommend:
•One in three women will suffer with hair loss
such as hormonal imbalance, stress and anxiety,
illness, hair extensions and over styling or diet
•Viviscal Man nourishes thinning hair and
supports natural growth
•Supplements are being widely recommended
by beauty editors, models and celebrity stylists,
making it a real buzz in the beauty world
•Fibre results are incredible and undetectable
giving a completely natural look
•Fibres build hair density in just 20 seconds
Take two tablets daily (one in the
morning and one in the evening, taken
with water after food) and expect to
start to see results within three months.
Supplements not suitable for those
pregnant or breastfeeding, or for those
allergic to fish, shellfish or seafood.
OTHER
ADVICE
or dull, lifeless hair due to a range of factors
Counterskills 9
Head and hair care
Section 3: Headlice
Headlice (or pediculus capitis) are small blood
sucking insects that live exclusively on the
human scalp. It is a very common problem
which can be experienced by anyone although
it is more common in children. They are passed
by prolonged head to head contact which
children tend to do whilst playing. Headlice
cannot jump or fly and so this is the only way
they can move from one head to another.
The female louse lays her eggs on the scalp and
these eggs hatch into the lice. The empty egg
shells are white and are known as ‘nits’.
Symptoms
The symptoms of having headlice are:
Persistent itching of the scalp
•
he appearance of empty white egg
•Tshells
in the hair or on the shoulders
lack powder on the pillow which is
•Bdigested
blood excreted by the headlice.
Treatment
Treatment is with one or more of the following
options:
Insecticides: (such as phenothrin,
permethrin and malathion). These kill
the headlice and their eggs and should
only be used if a live louse is found.
They are either water or alcohol based
formulations and should be used in
accordance with the instructions. The
treatment should be repeated seven
days later to avoid re-infestation.
Products are available as solutions,
crème rinse and sprays
•
10 Counterskills
ustomers suffering with asthma or
•Ceczema
should be recommended a water
based formulation as an alcohol based
formulation may cause stinging or an
asthma attack
on-insecticides: (such as dimeticone,
•Ncyclomethicone,
isopropyl myristate,
aniseed and ylang ylang oils). These
smother the lice and eggs and should
be repeated seven days later to kill any
lice that have hatched following the first
treatment. They are available as liquids,
liquid gels and sprays
et combing: This removes headlice and
•W
eggs. A fine toothed detection comb
should be used on wet, well conditioned
hair, making it harder for the lice to hold
onto the hair shaft. After each combing,
the comb needs to be checked for any
eggs/louse and these should be removed
after each downward comb otherwise
all they are doing is spreading them
across the head. It should be repeated
every four days for at least two weeks to
ensure the head is clear.
Head and hair care
Practical advice
•
egular wet combing of children’s hair
R
can prevent an infestation of headlice
•
dvise customers to check pillows and
A
bedding regularly for black powder
•
If headlice are found, inform those who
they have been in close contact with to
check if headlice are present
•
If headlice are found advise them to
keep their distance until the infestation
is cleared to avoid spreading to others
•Explain to your customers that headlice
like any kind of hair clean or dirty and
that short hair doesn’t stop infestation
f asked, headlice don’t live on pets or
•Iother
animals
eople can build up a resistance to
•Pinsecticides
so it is advisable to only sell
these when headlice are present
ecommend that your customers repeat
•Rtheir
chosen treatment seven days later
to make sure that any headlice which
have hatched since the first treatment
are killed.
Counterskills 11
Head and hair care
T
MEMBE
R
RE
N
n TO
ho is it for?
Refer to the Pharmacist if:
Treating children under the age of two
W
hat are the symptoms?
Refer to the Pharmacist if:
Customers are experiencing a second infestation of headlice
in a month
H
ow long have they had the symptoms?
Refer to the Pharmacist if:
Any symptoms are getting worse
A
ctions taken so far:
Refer to the Pharmacist if:
Medication has been tried already and caused irritation,
itching or a burning sensation
M
edication, if any, taken at the moment?
Refer to the Pharmacist if:
The answer is yes
12 Counterskills
io
at
W
INform
WWHAM!
Section 0: Lorem ipsun
•
PORTA
IM
Head and hair care
ACTIVITY
A woman comes into the pharmacy with five
year old twin boys. She tells you that they both
have headlice. She tells you they haven’t had headlice
for at least 12 months but there has been a letter from
school saying it is going round and unfortunately it looks
like the boys have managed to get them. She would like
to know which treatment you would advise her to use.
Write in the box below what you would do in this situation.
my r
we
ans
Ask your Pharmacist to review your answer and discuss it with you if required.
Counterskills 13
Head and hair care
Product recommendations
Hedrin
Key attributes:
Hedrin is No.1 because all Hedrin®
branded treatments:
•Are clinically tested for efficacy
•Are skin-friendly
•Have no unpleasant odours
•Contain no known asthma triggers
•Do not require laborious combing in order to work
•May be used in pregnancy and on babies from six
months old
Why recommend:
Hedrin 4% Lotion – Hedrin’s original and
ever-popular licensed formula
•Available on prescription and with many loyal users.
Two applications overnight
Hedrin Once – A quick solution that only
takes one 15 minute treatment
•Thicker gel formulation that’s clinically proven to kill
head lice and eggs with just one 15 minute application
Hedrin Treat & Go – A fuss-free solution
for children who just want to go and
play
•Leave on the child’s hair while they play, go to school
or sleep
•Rinses out easily with no greasy residue. Two
applications – eight hours or overnight
•The only licensed non-pesticide head lice treatment in
the UK
Full Marks
Key attributes:
•Non-pesticide treatment
•Clinically proven to kill head lice with a 10 minute
treatment
•Quick and easy to use
Why recommend:
•Clinically proven to kill head lice with a 10 minute
treatment
Head lice are common in children – about 1 in 10 primary school children will
catch them each year.
The tell-tale signs of head lice are either a live head louse, or their eggs – brownish
if un-hatched or white if empty, or louse dropping which look like a dusting of
pepper on pillows or clothes.
14 Counterskills
OTHER
ADVICE
Head and hair care
Section 4: Scalp conditions
Scalp conditions aren’t usually serious but can
cause discomfort and in some cases can be
embarrassing. Common problems are:
• Dandruff
• Seborrhoeic dermatitis
• Psoriasis.
Dandruff
Dandruff is the most common scalp condition
you are likely to be asked about. It is caused by
a build up of dead skin cells on the scalp which
can occur:
• When hair is not brushed
regularly
• By an overgrowth of a fungal
yeast
keratolytic. This includes salicylic acid,
•Abenzalkonium.
They help remove the
build up of dead skin cells and can be
found in combination with some antifungals.
Practical advice
should be used continuously
•Sashampoos
symptoms may return if stopped
f one shampoo doesn’t seem to have
•Ibeen
effective, it is worth advising your
customer to try another with different
ingredients
are should be taken when brushing/
•Ccombing
the hair not to scratch the scalp
at a healthy balanced diet with
•Ebread,
pasta, fortified breakfast cereals
(fortified means the manufacturers of
the cereals have added extra vitamins
and minerals to the cereals) or lentils (all
rich in vitamin B).
• When there is a lack of
Vitamin B in the diet.
Symptoms
The skin cells build up and form itchy white
clumps which are visible in the hair and can fall
onto the shoulders.
Treatment
Treatment is with shampoos containing the
following:
An anti-fungal. This includes zinc
pyrithione, coal tar and arachis oil
extract of coal tar, ketoconazole,
selenium sulphide, ciclopirox olamine,
undecenoic acid. They help reduce the
overgrowth of fungal yeast
•
Counterskills 15
Head and hair care
Section 4: Scalp conditions
Seborrhoeic dermatitis
Seborrhoeic dermatitis is when the skin is
inflamed and causes dandruff. It is thought to
be caused by the same fungal yeast that can
cause dandruff.
Symptoms
This condition can be mild and is normally
experienced in the same way as dandruff. It
can however be more severe and the following
symptoms are experienced:
Patches of greasy, scaly and red skin
develop, which then form yellow crusts
which can be very itchy and raised,
which in turn causes the scalp to become
very sore
•
f these flakes fall onto other areas of
•Ithe
skin, it can infect these areas, most
commonly the eyes.
Treatment
Treatment is with shampoos containing
anti-fungals.
Practical advice
should be used continuously
•Sashampoos
symptoms may return if stopped
f one shampoo doesn’t seem to have
•Ibeen
effective it is worth advising your
customer to try another with different
ingredients
are should be taken when brushing/
•Ccombing
the hair not to scratch the scalp
colouring or perming
•Athevoidhairbleaching,
as this will further irritate the
skin.
16 Counterskills
Customers
who have
tried
over the
counter
(OTC)
shampoos with no
success should be referred
to the Pharmacist as they
may require a prescribed
intervention.
When
fer
to re
Head and hair care
Psoriasis
Psoriasis is a long term condition which can
affect the scalp. A trigger is required for
psoriasis to develop, which can be a throat
infection, certain medications, an injury to the
skin or stress.
Skin cell renewal normally takes between 2128 days. In people suffering with psoriasis, this
process is only between two - six days. It is not
contagious but can look unattractive which
causes embarrassment for the sufferer. There
is currently no cure for it so any help you can
offer to sufferers will be most appreciated.
Symptoms
aised red patches of skin or plaques
•Rcovered
with silvery white scales. The
nti-fungals such as coal tar can be
•Auseful
as they help to remove scales and
reduce inflammation
acid helps to remove the build
•Supalicylic
of dead skin cells and can be found in
combination with some anti-fungals.
Practical advice
are should be taken when brushing/
•Ccombing
the hair not to scratch the scalp
colouring or perming
•Athevoidhairbleaching,
as this will further irritate the
skin on the scalp
should be advised not to pick
•Catustomers
any scales as this will expose the layer
of skin underneath which may then
become infected.
scales are dead skin cells waiting to
be shed
•The plaques can vary in size and shape.
Treatment
Treatment is with products containing the
following:
Emollients which can sometimes be
enough to control the symptoms in mild
psoriasis
•
When
fer
to re
You should refer customers with psoriasis to
your Pharmacist as they may need help from a
specialist.
Counterskills 17
Head and hair care
n TO
W
hat are the symptoms?
Refer to the Pharmacist if:
A customer has severe scaling of the scalp or it looks like there
maybe an infection of the scalp
H
ow long have they had the symptoms?
Refer to the Pharmacist if:
Any symptoms are getting worse
A
ctions taken so far:
Refer to the Pharmacist if:
Medication has been tried already and caused irritation,
itching or a burning sensation
M
edication, if any, taken at the moment?
Refer to the Pharmacist if:
The answer is yes
18 Counterskills
io
at
ho is it for?
Refer to the Pharmacist if:
Pregnant, breast feeding women and children under the age of
12 years should be referred to the Pharmacist
INform
W
T
MEMBE
R
RE
N
WWHAM!
Section 0: Lorem ipsun
•
PORTA
IM
Head and hair care
ACTIVITY
A man of about 20 comes into your
pharmacy. He explains that he needs you to
find him a better dandruff shampoo than the one he has
already as it is not getting rid of his dandruff.
Write in the box below what you would do in this situation.
my r
we
ans
Ask your Pharmacist to review your answer and discuss it with you if required.
Counterskills 19
Head and hair care
Product recommendations
Sebamed Everyday Shampoo 200ml
Key attributes:
•100% soap and alkali free
•pH5.5
•Formulated with plant based active cleansing agents
for gentle daily hair care and safeguards hair and scalp
against dryness
•Keeps hair structure intact for healthy shiny hair
•Penetrates the structure of the hair shaft adding
volume and a silky lustre
•Pleasant delicate fragrance
Why recommend:
•Suitable for sensitive, dry and problem skin
•Suitability as a therapy-supportive skin care in skin
diseases
•Gentle and mild with a high skin tolerance
•Dermatologically tested.
Sebamed Anti Dandruff Shampoo 200ml
Key attributes:
•100% soap and alkali free
•pH5.5
•Active ingredient Piroctone Olamine ensures the gentle
removal of flakes and dandruff
•Gentle and mild to gently cleanse hair and scalp,
removing visible signs of dandruff irritation
•Contains moisturising and conditioning ingredients to
revitalise the hair and scalp
•Gentle and mild with a high skin tolerance
•Clinically tested
Why recommend:
•Suitable for sensitive, dry and problem skin when a dry
flaky scalp and dandruff are a persistent problem
•Suitable for normal to Oily hair and scalp
•Gently removes dandruff
•50% reduction of dandruff after 2 weeks rising to 73%
after 3 weeks.
20 Counterskills
Head and hair care
Section 5: Shampoos
and conditioners
Shampoo
The purpose of shampoo is to clean the hair.
However shampoo must not clean too well or
all of the protective oils in the hair would be
stripped out.
Ingredients
The main ingredients in shampoo are
surfactants; chemicals which help remove the
waxy oil secreted by hair follicles. A surfactant
is a material that reduces the surface tension of
water when used in very low concentrations.
There are a number of different surfactants
available. The most common one is called
straight chain alkyl benzene sulfonates.
The surfactant cocamidopropyl betaine is often
used instead, due to its special properties. It is
milder on the skin than the benzene sulfonates,
so reducing the amount of the harsher
surfactants needed. It has anti static properties,
so hair doesn’t generate an electric charge. It is
also a humectant, attracting moisture from the
air, thus keeping hair from drying out. Lastly,
it has antibiotic properties that can prevent
spoiling of the shampoo.
Other ingredients in shampoo include:
Ammonium chloride/sodium chloride
which are types of salt to thicken the
shampoo
•
mmonium lauryl sulfate which is a high
•Afoaming
surfactant
which is a type of sugar added
•Gtolycol
make shampoos opaque and
pearlescent. It has tiny flakes that mix
well with surfactants
laureth sulphate which is
•Saodium
foaming surfactant derived from
coconut oils. It is used to soften water
and create a lather
odium lauroamphoacetate which is
•Sderived
from coconut oils. It is used as
a cleanser and counter irritant. This
ingredient makes the product tear free
•PEG-150 distearate which is a thickener
itric acid which is an anti-oxidant to
•Cpreserve
the oils in the product and to
prevent bacterial growth
uaternium-15 which is a bacterial/
•Qfungicidal
preservative
olyquaternium-10 which is a
•Pconditioning
ingredient, providing
moisture and fullness to the hair
•Glycerine which is added as a humectant.
pH balance
pH stands for potential hydrogen. 7 is the
neutral spot for pH but anything between 6.5
to 7.5 is considered to be a neutral range. If
an acid is mixed with an alkaline then the pH
will change. Anything above 7 is alkaline and
anything below 7 is acid.
A pH balanced shampoo is one that is adjusted
to have the same pH as the hair. The cuticle
of a strand of hair is covered with overlapping
sheets, somewhat like the scales on a fish.
Alkaline shampoos raise these scales, so they
stand up. This makes the hair rough, look dull,
and the hair shafts stick together due to the
rough texture.
Most shampoos are therefore made slightly
acidic. A compound that releases more acidity
is called a buffer. Typical buffering agents used
in shampoo are sodium citrate or citric acid.
Counterskills 21
Head and hair care
Section 5: Shampoos
and conditioners
Acidic shampoos keep the cuticle smooth and
lying flat on the hair shaft.
Specialised shampoos
Dandruff
Shampoos have been developed specifically
for customers who have dandruff. Dandruff
shampoos contain fungicides such as
ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione and selenium
sulfide. They work by killing malassezia furfur, a
type of fungus which produces dandruff. Coal
tar and salicylate derivatives are often used as
well.
Coloured hair
Coloured hair is more susceptible to dryness,
coarseness, split ends, and fading. The most
important thing to remember when treating
coloured hair is moisture. Advise customers to
purchase and use a shampoo that is labelled
specifically for colour treated hair. These
products contain extra moisturisers that will
add moisture and smooth down the hair.
Coloured hair shampoo has a low pH to
prevent the hair drying out too much. They also
have ingredients that close the cuticle to stop
the colour escaping too quickly. This means
that the colour will last longer, be brighter and
more vibrant.
Gluten or wheat free
Some customers may suffer from eczema on
their scalp. It may be that wheat and/or gluten
(the protein found in many grains including
wheat) is the cause, particularly if they are
sensitive to this in food (e.g. celiac disease).
Other reactions to wheat and gluten can
include dandruff, thinning hair and hair that
breaks easily.
Customers who are on gluten free diets may
prefer to use a gluten free shampoo.
22 Counterskills
Greasy hair
Greasy hair is due to a build up of the natural
secretion of grease, or more correctly sebum,
from glands in the scalp.
The best shampoos for greasy hair are specially
formulated to remove natural grease without
damaging the hair. They will contain fewer oily
or fatty substances than normal shampoo.
Customers should avoid washing their hair
every day as this will over stimulate the glands,
creating more grease. This creates a vicious
circle where the more the customer washes
their hair, the greasier it gets.
Advise the customer to use a mild pH balanced
shampoo and wash their hair without rubbing
the scalp too much. Alternatively they could try
using a children’s shampoo as these are often
mild enough for greasy hair.
Finally, they should watch what they eat. Oily
and fatty foods can contribute to greasy hair
and scalp.
Dry hair
Dry hair occurs when moisture is absent from
the hair shaft. Hair can dry out from the use of
products like shampoos, hair sprays, perms, or
hair dye. Some of these products can contain
harsh chemicals like alcohol or ammonia which
strip the hair of its natural moisture leaving it
dry and sometimes dull. Using hair dryers can
also cause dry hair because the heat removes
the natural moisture from hair.
To protect hair from drying out, customers
should avoid using products with alcohol,
ammonia or other harsh ingredients. Dry
hair needs to be nourished using intensive
moisturising shampoo or shampoo with oils
such as coconut, olive and almond.
Head and hair care
Dry shampoo
Dry shampoo is a powdered substance that is
used to clean the hair when it is not possible
or practical to use water and traditional
shampoos. The idea behind dry shampoo is to
remove excess oil from hair follicles without
having to actually wash the hair using a
traditional shampoo and water. It can also be
used as a styling aid to achieve volume.
Dry shampoo products contain some type
of powder. The powder is worked into the
hair in a similar way to the application of wet
shampoos. The powder absorbs the excess
oil present on the surface of the hair follicles.
After leaving the dry shampoo for a short
period of time, the residue is brushed or
combed out of the hair. The end result is that
the shampoo powder removes a significant
amount of oil and the hair will appear healthy
and manageable for several hours.
Dry shampoo products are available as powders
that are sprinkled into the hair as well as sprays
that are sold in aerosol cans.
Dry shampoo is not a permanent substitute
for using wet shampoos. While dry shampoo
works very well for the occasional application,
the product does not clean as thoroughly as
wet shampoos. Over time, a residue will be
left in the hair that dry shampoo is unable to
absorb properly. For this reason, dry shampoo
should only be used from time to time rather
than on a daily basis.
cleansing action. Promotes hair growth.
Is used for the treatment of devitalised,
thin hair with dandruff
alendula (Marigold) is used to lighten
•Chair
avender balances the production of
•Lsebum
from the oil glands making it
beneficial for dry or oily hair
•Nettles control dandruff
•Yarrow gives volume to fine hair
•Rosemary is good for greasy hair.
Conditioners
Hair conditioner is a thick substance which
coats the cuticle of the hair, making it smooth
and slippery. Conditioners help replenish the
look and feel of the hair after shampooing.
They can help moisturise, add shine and
manageability, much like a fabric softener does
to your clothing, after washed in a detergent.
A conditioner should only be applied to the
hair shaft and the ends. Never apply a hair
conditioner to the scalp, as it will build up and
create a limp look.
Herbal shampoos
There are many different herbs that are used in
shampoo. A few of these are:
Chamomile which is used to lighten
blond hair
•
•Acacia Bark has an astringent and
Counterskills 23
Head and hair care
Section 5: Shampoos
and conditioners
Ingredients
There are several hair conditioner ingredients,
differing in composition and functionality.
These are:
Moisturisers. They are designed to
hold moisture in the hair. Usually these
contain high proportions of humectants.
Humectants are compounds that attract
and hold moisture on the hair
•
econstructors. These normally contain
•Rprotein.
Hydrolyzed human hair keratin
protein is the best source, because it
contains all 19 amino acids found in the
hair. Human hair keratin protein has
a low molecular weight. This enables
it to penetrate the hair shaft. The
main purpose of a reconstructor is to
strengthen the hair
cidifiers. These maintain the
•Aconditioner’s
pH at about 3.5. This pH
will close the cuticle layer of the hair.
The result is shiny, bouncy hair. This is
a good ingredient for people with fine
textured hair
•
etanglers. Most detanglers are
D
acidifiers. They have a low pH; between
2.5 to 3.5. They close the cuticle of the
hair which causes tangles. Some shield
the hair shaft with polymers (a chain of
molecules)
hermal protectors. These safeguard
•Tthe
hair against heat from blow drying,
curling tongs, or hot rollers. They
normally use heat absorbing polymers
that distribute the heat, so your hair
does not get heat damage
lossers. Most glossers contain
•Gdimethicone
or cyclomethicone (very
24 Counterskills
light oils derived from silicone). Used in
small amounts they reflect light. They
are one of the best products to control
frizzy hair
ils (EFA’s). These help dry/porous hair
•Obecome
more soft and pliable. EFA’s
are the closest thing to natural sebum
(sebum contain EFA’s).
Types of conditioner
Greasy hair
Customers with greasy hair should be advised
not to use a heavy conditioner as this will
weigh their hair down. It will also make their
hair look and feel greasy. Ideally they should
use a lightweight formula and apply the
conditioner only from the mid shaft of their
hair, avoiding the root area. Alternatively they
can use a leave in conditioner or detangler to
help hydrate their hair further. For customers
with extremely greasy hair, recommend a
conditioner with teatree oil.
Dry, curly, frizzy hair
Customers should go for an intensive
moisturising or oil based conditioner. These
should be applied from the ends of the hair
to the roots avoiding application to the scalp.
Intensive moisturising conditioners contain
ingredients such as cetyl, stearyl alcohol,
panthenol and methicones, silicone or
dimethicone, or essential oils and botanicals
such as avocado, jojoba oil, or shea butter.
Oil based conditioners are those that usually
contain EFA’s.
If the hair is damaged, the customer should
leave the conditioner on the ends of their hair
for a longer period of time before washing
out. If their hair is extra frizzy, a light, leave in
conditioner is recommended. They can apply
Head and hair care
the conditioner after shampooing and then,
as the name suggests, leave it in. This type of
conditioner can be used daily.
Coloured hair
The goal here is to build up weak areas in the
hair shaft affected by colouring. Customers
should use conditioners designed for colour
treated hair and apply it primarily to the ends.
These conditioners typically contain UV filters
which work like sunscreen to prevent colour
fading. Avoid conditioners that contain silicone,
since they tend to strip colour.
Using heat
Customers who use heated rollers, heating
tongs or straighteners should use a hair
conditioning spray. This protects the hair from
the harmful effects of the heat used when
styling hair.
Giving volume
Conditioners that give body to the hair are
called reconstructors. They contain protein.
Protein conditioners coat the hair shafts and
ends with a layer of protein that gives the
appearance of thicker hair. It can fill in gaps if
the outer cuticle is damaged, giving the hair
a smoother look and adding shine. Protein
conditioners must be applied daily. They can
be applied to fine and limp hair or hair that is
damaged.
Reducing static
After shampooing, the hair can be tangled and
unmanageable. Acidifier conditioners have a
low pH of between 2.5 to 3.5. This type of
conditioner closes the cuticle layer of the hair,
which in turn allows each individual strand of
hair to remain separate from others. This helps
the hair not tangle and creates more body.
These type of conditioners can be used by all
hair types, but work well on fine hair.
Detangling conditioners are often separated
from acidifier conditioners, but basically all
detangling conditioners are acidifiers. However,
some do have polymers added, like silicone,
which will coat the hair shaft, making it look
fuller.
Hair masks
Hair masks help remove oil and dirt from hair,
provide additional moisture and counteract
the damaging effects of colouring and styling,
making it shinier and more manageable. They
also act as a deep conditioner and can work
alongside everyday conditioners. They help
create the illusion of healthy hair while any
damage to the hair grows out.
These products should be used in accordance
with the instructions and applied to
shampooed damp hair for 10-20 minutes then
rinsed out with warm water. They can be used
once a week although most people find that a
once a month application provides the desired
effect.
Hot oil treatments
Hot oil treatments restore shiny and healthy
looking hair. They are useful on hair which is
dry, damaged, chemically treated or has been
subjected to excessive heat styling.
They tend to contain natural essential oils such
as olive, jasmine, coconut and jojoba oils.
The hot oil bottle should be placed in hot
water to warm through (unless the oil is self
warming) then be massaged through damp
hair ensuring each strand of hair is covered.
The hair should then be wrapped in a shower
cap or warm towel and left in accordance with
the instructions, usually around 30 minutes.
The oil should then be washed out using a mild
shampoo or one designed for dry/damaged
hair. They can be used once a week.
Counterskills 25
Head and hair care
Section 5: Shampoos
and conditioners
ACTIVITY
A woman of about 25 comes into your
pharmacy. She says that she would like help
choosing some shampoo and conditioner.
When you ask her what type of hair she has, she
replies that it is greasy.
Write in the box below what you would do in this situation.
my r
we
ans
Ask your Pharmacist to review your answer and discuss it with you if required.
26 Counterskills
Product recommendations Head and hair care
Head & Shoulders
Key attributes:
•Leaves hair looking and feeling up to 100%
dandruff free
•Superior scalp care for great looking hair
Why recommend:
•Since 1950, head & shoulders has been at the
forefront of scalp and hair science, significantly
advancing the treatment of dandruff. Along
with professional advice and expert insight they
provide a wide range of products to care for
your scalp and nurture your hair.
Fast
Key attributes:
•FAST is a best-selling Canadian product with
phenomenal sales worldwide
•Makes your existing hair grow up to 99% faster
in just 30 days
•Contains a unique blend of proteins and aminos
which feed the hair with essential growth
nutrition
Why recommend:
•Perfect for slow-growing hair or to outgrow
a bad haircut – both very common problems
amongst women
•All active ingredients are natural making it safe
for daily use and on all hair types and all ages
OTHER
Upsell to customers who buy
vitamins/ supplements for
ADVICE
hair growth.
Display leaflets and point of sale
prominently – most customers do
not realise there is a product like FAST.
Counterskills 27
Head and hair care
Section 6: Colouring products
There are a number of colouring products
available for use at home. These are:
• Temporary
• Semi-permanent
• Permanent.
In order to get the most out of home
colouring products, customers should be
advised to consider their selection carefully
and ensure they prepare and apply the
product in accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions. They should also be encouraged to
use aftercare products such as shampoos and
conditioners which are specifically formulated
for coloured hair.
28 Counterskills
Temporary
Temporary hair colour is available in a number
of forms including rinses, shampoos, gels,
sprays, hair mascara and foams. They tend
to be brighter and more vibrant than semipermanent and permanent hair colours and
used for a special occasion such as a costume
party.
Temporary colours should disappear after the
first wash.
If your customer has some or a lot of grey hair,
temporary hair colour products may not cover
the grey and result in a slightly lighter colour
on these areas. Temporary hair colour is not
designed to cover grey hair but may tone the
hair so that the grey is not as obvious.
Head and hair care
Semi-permanent
Semi-permanent hair colour tends to have two
bottles of product which need to be mixed
together. One is the developer and the other
the colouring agent. Semi-permanent colour
molecules are smaller than temporary colour
molecules and so can penetrate the hair shaft,
preventing it from being washed out for
between six to eight washes.
They contain no or small amounts of hydrogen
peroxide or ammonia and so are gentler on
damaged or fragile hair than permanent hair
colour.
The final colour of each stand of hair will
depend on the original colour and condition.
If the hair is dry or damaged, this will mean
the hair shaft is more porous to the colour
molecules. This may however give a more
natural look as there will be subtle variations
in shade across the head rather than a solid
colour. It cannot however lighten the hair.
Grey hair will not appear as the same shade
as the rest of the hair, but semi-permanent
hair colour blends the grey hair so it is not
as obvious. If there is a lot of grey, it may be
better for your customer to use a permanent
hair colour. The benefit of using a semipermanent hair colour is that the colour fades
gradually over time and through washing
which means there will not be a line of regrowth.
It can be applied in a number of ways. These are:
All over colour. This is when the colour is
applied to the whole head
•
•
i and low lights. This is when the colour
H
is applied to chosen strands of the hair
using a cap and pulling the strands to be
coloured through holes in the cap, using
a wand included in the kit which is not
dissimilar to a mascara wand or using
foil to wrap the dyed strands to protect
the hair not being coloured
pot colour. This is when the colour is
•Sapplied
to a specific patch of hair
in colour. This is when the colour
•Siscrunch
applied to dry hair by scrunching it
in using gloved hands then rinsing,
achieving a more subtle effect.
Permanent
Permanent hair colour also has two bottles of
product which need to be mixed together in
the same way as semi-permanent hair colour.
In order to achieve permanent colouring, the
colour is mixed with hydrogen peroxide to
create what is known as an oxidation dye.
Permanent colour molecules are smaller again
than semi-permanent colour molecules. They
contain ammonia which is alkaline and opens
up the cuticle scales on the hair shaft allowing
these small molecules to penetrate the hair
shaft. These small molecules attach themselves
to the hydrogen peroxide which create much
larger molecules which become trapped in
the hair shaft and cannot escape no matter
how many times the hair is washed. This
process is called oxidation and is the basis of all
permanent hair colouring.
Permanent hair colour is the only colour which
will lighten hair; others do not have the power
to lift the base colour of hair.
It is good for covering grey hair or adding
additional depth or tone to natural hair colour.
As it is permanent, re-growth will need to be
re-coloured. Re-colouring can be carried out
either by applying colour all over the hair (the
Counterskills 29
Head and hair care
Section 6: Colouring products
instructions included with the product should be
followed as the instructions for using permanent
colour on already coloured hair are different
to the first time of use) or by using a product
specifically designed to colour root growth.
Highlighting is when the bleach is not applied
to the whole head but to strands of hair to give
lift to the colour of the hair without having an
all over block colour. This tends to give a more
natural look.
When your customer is considering which
colour to go for, they may ask for your help.
A good rule of thumb is if they have a high
percentage of grey hair, they should go for
a colour which is slightly lighter than their
natural base to ensure good coverage and even
colouring. Using a lighter colour should also
compliment your customer’s complexion as
they get older. If they have a lower percentage
of grey hair, then a darker colour can be
used. However it will need to be a dye which
is specifically for grey hair as this tends to be
stronger, to ensure the colour penetrates the
hair shaft, which can be coarser. The end result
is a combination of their natural hair colour and
the shade of the product. This is why the same
colour used on two different people may look
different. Customers should be directed to look
at the packaging of a particular product for an
idea of the natural hair colour the product is
suitable for and an idea of the expected result.
Whether your customer is lightening all or some
of their hair, they should keep checking the
colour by taking a strand and wiping off the
bleach to check how light it is. Once the desired
colour has been achieved, the bleach should be
washed off in accordance with the instructions.
Customers should be advised not to leave
bleach on for longer than the instructions as
this can severely damage the hair.
Permanent hair colour products are available as
cream/lotion and foam/mousse.
Bleaching and highlighting
Bleaching and highlighting is the process of
lightening the colour of the hair. Bleaches are
alkaline and so open up the hair cuticle on the
outside of the hair shaft, allowing the bleach
to reach the hair shaft where the natural colour
pigment is found. The pigment is stripped from
the hair and then the oxidation process takes
place to create the new colour.
Bleach can be used to pre-lighten hair before
another colour is applied.
30 Counterskills
If your customer is lightening their hair much
lighter than their current colour, you should
advise them to choose a colour from the ‘ash’
family to avoid yellow undertones.
Bleaching should not be carried out within four
weeks of a previous bleaching or colouring
application as it can damage the hair.
Removing hair colour
There are products available that remove
hair colour to restore the hair to its natural
colour. They deep cleanse the hair, removing
silicone deposits and other barriers from the
hair, leaving it in good condition and ready for
further colour treatment.
Head and hair care
Silicone deposits can build up on the hair
shaft from the use of cleansing and styling
products which are designed to improve the
shine, feel and condition of hair. This build up
can create a barrier to colouring products. This
can lead to patchy colour, poor lightening and
inconsistent tone.
In addition to preparing the hair for further
colour treatment, colour removers can also
be used to reverse an undesirable hair colour
application. They work by shrinking the hair
colour molecules within the hair shaft so they
can be washed out. They take the hair colour
back to its lightest shade so if the hair colour
applied was darker than the natural colour;
they return the hair to its natural colour. If
however the hair colour applied was lighter
than the natural colour, the natural pigment
within the hair shaft has been chemically
lightened. This will mean that the hair will
be left lighter than the natural colour. In this
situation, you can recommend that your
customer applies a hair colour close to their
natural colour (it is recommended that they
select a shade lighter than their natural colour
to ensure a realistic result).
Skin allergy testing
When customers are considering the use
of home colouring products, they should
be advised to carry out a skin allergy test as
described on the packing and instructions of
their chosen product. This should normally be
carried out between 48 - 72 hours before use to
ensure they are not allergic to the ingredients.
Some people, particularly those who have
previously had a black henna tattoo in the
past, can suffer with an allergic reaction which
can be slight to life threatening. Symptoms
of a slight allergic reaction are irritant contact
dermatitis, where the skin is itchy, red and
inflamed on the areas where the product
has been in direct contact. The more life
threatening allergic reactions are when there
are more wide spread symptoms such as
itching and rashes occurring on other areas of
the body, a general feeling of being unwell and
in rare cases anaphylactic shock which requires
immediate emergency medical attention.
This test should be completed before EACH
application, not just when changing from one
product to another as an allergy can develop
suddenly, unless your customer has:
• Already had an allergic
reaction to a hair colourant
• Has an irritated or damaged
scalp.
If this is the case, you should advise your
customer to consult a professional hair dresser
and not use home colouring product.
Counterskills 31
Head and hair care
Section 6: Colouring products
How to carry out the test
To carry out the test, customers should always
follow the instructions accompanying the
product they wish to use as they vary from
manufacturer to manufacturer.
f colour does reach ears or hairline, it
•Ishould
be removed as soon as possible
before it has time to stain. If it does stain
the skin, baby wipes and eye makeup
remover and sometimes just soap and
water should remove the stain
The test is normally carried out by removing
earrings and, using a cotton bud, applying
a small amount of the dye solution behind
the ear (or if easier on the inner elbow), then
leaving to dry and uncovered for the required
time (normally 48-72 hours). If the dye is a
two bottle product, a little of the solution from
each bottle will need to be mixed and used to
perform the test. The full product should not
be mixed, only the small amount needed to
perform the test as once the product is mixed it
needs to be used straight away. If any irritation,
rash or a feeling of being unwell occurs during
this period, the product should be washed off
immediately and not used.
olour enhancing shampoos,
•Cconditioners
and mousses can keep
Practical advice
f using a dark or permanent colour then
•Iuse
a dark towel and if using bleach or a
There are some general points that customers
can be advised on when they are colouring
their hair:
ead the instructions thoroughly
•Rbefore
use
•
erform a skin allergy test before
P
each application of colour as per the
instructions
hen using semi-permanent and
•W
permanent products, advise your
customers to place a small amount of
night cream around their hairline. This
will stop the dye from reaching the skin
around the face and reduce the chance
of staining
32 Counterskills
colour vivid longer
ear hats or hair products with
•W
sunscreens to prevent colour from
fading and drying in the sun
sk a friend to help apply the product as
•Athis
is easier than applying themselves
ork methodically section by section
•W
when applying the product and if
covering grey hair, start by covering
this first so the colour is allowed to
penetrate for longer
highlighting kit, use a white towel
ome doctors advise their patients to
•Savoid
any kind of chemicals during
pregnancy. While there’s little concrete
evidence that colouring during
pregnancy is medically harmful, you
should refer your customer to discuss
this with their GP.
Head and hair care
ACTIVITY
A woman of about 40 comes into your
pharmacy. She says that she would like help
choosing a hair colour as she has noticed a few grey hairs
and wants to cover them and maybe try a new colour for a
change. She has never dyed her hair before.
She has medium brown hair and when you ask her what
colour she is thinking of she says she is thinking of a dark
brown with some plum tones.
Write in the box below what type of product you would advice her to use and any practical
advice you would give her.
my r
we
ans
Ask your Pharmacist to review your answer and discuss it with you if required.
Counterskills 33
Head and hair care
Product recommendations
Live XXL
Key attributes:
•LIVE Color XXL is the leading vibrant brand
•It offers a range of extra intense, extra long-lasting,
vibrant colours
Why recommend:
•NEW Ultra Brights are three semi-permanent shades
that can be used for all over colour, to top up colour
vibrancy between permanent dyeing and for dip
dyeing and artistic dyeing. For extra vibrancy they can
be used on top of a lightening shade with no added
damage to the hair
•Max Blonde 00B is the blondest shade in the market,
which offers up to eight shades of lightening
•The three Luminance shades offer lightening and
colour in one simple step, so people with naturally
darker hair can achieve a more vibrant result
•LIVE Color XXL Shake It Up is the first vibrant foam,
that is easy and fun to use – shake, scoop and apply
Colour B4
Key attributes:
•Colour B4 hair colour remover is the safest and most
effective way to reverse an undesirable hair colour
application.
Why recommend:
•Safe
•Gentle
•Contains no
harsh
chemicals
•Convenient to use
•Recolour the same day
•For safe removal of artificial hair colour
•Can be used for multiple applications
•Use before each new hair colour application, to provide
the best possible results from a new hair colour
Colour B4 takes you back to your lightest shade. If the artificial hair colour
applied is lighter than your natural colour, the natural pigment within your
hair has been chemically lightened. Although Colour B4 will remove the
artificial dye, you will still notice your natural hair colour has lightened.
Colour Stop
Key attributes:
•Locks and protects your hair colour after colouring
•Helps reduce creeping oxidation that can cause warm
and copper tone hues
•Helps prevent peroxide or bleach from lightening the
hair beyond the desired level
•Contains UV Protector, honey and Vitamin E to help
protect from sun damage
OTHER
ADVICE
Why recommend:
•Anti-oxidant
•pH Balancer
•Regular use can preserve colour tones
and protect hair colour
•Locks in moisture
•Helps prevent colour fade and reduces
damage
It also acts as a shield if applied directly to the hair when sunbathing
or at the beach, to protect from those harmful UV rays.
34 Counterskills
OTHER
ADVICE
Head and hair care
Section 7: Styling products
Hairstyling products are used to change the
texture, shape of hair, or to hold it in place in a
certain hairstyle. Applied properly, most styling
products will not damage the hair apart from
drying it out. Most styling products contain
alcohols, which can dissolve oils and chemicals
which can cause build up, resulting in dull hair
or a change in texture.
Wax
Hair wax is a thick hairstyling product
containing wax, used to hold the hair. In
contrast with hair gel, which contains alcohol,
hair wax is pliable and does not dry the
hair out so much. It is often referred to as
pomade, putty, glue, whip, molding gum, or
styling paste. The following are some of the
ingredients typically found in hair wax:
• Beeswax
• Candelilla wax
• Carnauba wax
• Castor wax
• Emulsifying wax
• Japan wax
• Lanolin
• Ozokerite.
Some waxes contain petroleum jelly and mineral
oil. Sometimes petroleum jelly can be used alone
as a wax. They may also contain perfume and
colouring agents. The stiffest wax will have a
high proportion of beeswax while the lightest
may have a higher proportion of oils.
Mousse
Hair mousse is added to hair for extra volume
and shine. It often comes in either a spray or
cream form. It adds volume without clumps or
build-up occurring. It should be applied when
the hair is wet or damp. The customer should
apply the mousse all over the hair and comb
afterwards to make sure that the mousse is
evenly spread.
Hair mousse is a purple colour while in the
can, but after it comes in contact with air it
becomes an off white colour. Hair mousse can
be used on naturally curly or permed hair to
reduce frizz and define curl.
Certain brands of hair mousse contain alcohol,
which is fine for most hair types except dry.
For dry hair, customers should choose a hair
mousse that contains natural conditioners and
vitamins, but no alcohol.
Gel
Hair gel is a hairstyling product that is used
to stiffen hair into a particular hairstyle. The
results it produces are usually similar to, but
stronger than, those of hair spray and hair wax.
Cationic polymers are one of the main
components of hair gel. The positive charges
in polymer cause the gel to stretch, making it
more viscous (sticky).
Gels come in different strengths signified by
numbers. Higher numbered gels maintain a
greater hold on hair, while lower numbers do
not make the hair as stiff and in some products
give the hair a wet look.
Counterskills 35
Head and hair care
Section 7: Styling products
Spray
Hair spray is used to hold hair in a particular
style for a long period of time. Using a pump or
aerosol spray, it sprays evenly over the hair.
Its active ingredient is either a polymer or
the chemical elastesse. Elastesse is a form
of liquid elastic that keeps the hair stiff and
firm without snapping. One of the polymers
used is polyvinylpyrrolidine, which is also
used to glue layers of plywood together.
Sometimes a non water soluble polymer called
polydimethylsiloxane is added to make the hold
last a bit longer. Pytocalcious chemicals are also
used in hair spray. These increase the amount
of minerals in the hair’s root causing the hair to
become stiff.
Some hair sprays use natural polymers and
solvents like vegetable gums dissolved in
alcohol. One popular ingredient is gum arabic,
which is made from the sap of certain species
of the acacia tree.
Volumisers
Hair volumisers are used to temporarily add
volume, body, and shine to thin or flat hair.
Hair volumisers are also used by balding men
to make their hair mass look dense. They come
in shampoos, conditioners, sprays, waxes and
lotions.
Hair volumisers contain humectants, which
work by attracting moisture from the
surrounding areas to the hair strand; swelling
the hair and making it look thicker. Various
polymers present in the volumiser coat the hair
strand, making it look thicker and shiny.
36 Counterskills
Shampoo and conditioner forms of the
volumisers are used just like ordinary shampoo
or conditioners. The spray and lotion form
of volumisers are used in damp hair, near
the roots. Advise customers to apply the
volumisers, flip their head downward and
gradually blow dry their hair, with the air being
blown along the hair shaft. Once the hair is
dry, the customer can then flip their head up to
create volume.
Serum
Hair serum makes the hair shiny and stops
it from getting tangled by forming a thin
protective layer on the hair strands. It replaces
moisture lost due to exposure to the sun, heat
generated from hair styling products and hair
that has undergone chemical treatments like
perming or colouring. Hair serum provides
nourishment to the hair, making the hair shafts
strong, so they don’t break so easily. It should
be applied after washing hair. The effect of the
serum remains until the next wash.
Head and hair care
ACTIVITY
A man of about 20 comes into your
pharmacy. He is going to a fancy dress party as
a ‘Rocker’ and wants to know what hair styling product to
buy for his hair.
Write in the box below what you would advise him to purchase.
my r
we
ans
Ask your Pharmacist to review your answer and discuss it with you if required.
Counterskills 37
Head and hair care
Product recommendations
Elnett
Key attributes:
•Disappears at the stroke of a brush
•Elnett is micro-diffused so hair does not get
stuck together and stays soft. Your hair sets
without stiffness
•Finest hairspray used by the finest stylists
•Endorsed by Cheryl Cole – "Nothing holds me
like it"
Why recommend:
•No.1 hairspray in the UK market
•NEW L'Oreal Elnett Lumiere infuses your style
with light from the first spray while perfectly
holding your style for up to 24 hours
Brylcreem
Key attributes:
•Men’s styling products to achieve a variety
of looks
•Available across a range of styling formats
•Can be used for classic or modern styles
•Offers cool, timeless and understated looks –
without that crunchy finish
Why recommend:
Original
•Great for dry, coarse hair with its strong
conditioning properties
Gel cream
•A smooth, lightweight product that gives a
natural hold
Remouldable cream
•Gives a strong remouldable hold without looking
like your hair is overloaded
38 Counterskills
See www.brylcreem.com
for practical styling tips
OTHER
ADVICE
Head and hair care
Section 8: Check your
understanding
Complete the following multiple
choice questions on Head and hair care.
Ask your pharmacist to check
your answers.
ACTIVITY
Question 1
Hair is made up of:
A) 50% protein
B) 80% protein
C) 90% protein
Question 2
Hair loss affects around:
A) 80% of men and 20% of women
B) 70% of men and 50% of women
C) 90% of men and 50% of women
Counterskills 39
Head and hair care
Section 8: Check your
understanding
Question 3
Headlice spread from head to head by:
A) Jumping
B) Flying C) Crawling
Question 4
Dandruff is caused by:
A) A build up of dead skin cells on the scalp
B) Washing hair too frequently
C) Eating too many fatty foods
Question 5
pH stands for:
A) Plastic hydrogen
B) Potential hydration
C) Potential hydrogen
40 Counterskills
Head and hair care
Question 6
Dry shampoo is a:
A) Liquid substance used to clean the hair
B) Powdered substance used to clean the hair
C) Foam used to clean the hair
Question 7
Hair masks: (tick any that are true)
A) Help remove oil and dirt from hair
B) Provide additional moisture
C) Make hair shinier and more manageable
Question 8
Temporary hair colour:
A) Is brighter than semi-permanent and permanent
hair colours
B) Covers grey hair well
C) Stays in the hair for many weeks
Counterskills 41
Head and hair care
Section 8: Check your
understanding
Question 9
Semi-permanent hair colour consists of:
A) A developer and a colouring agent
B) A moisturiser and a colouring agent C) A developer and a detergent
Question 10
Wax is sometimes referred to as:
A) Mousse
B) Gel
C) Whip
42 Counterskills
Head and hair care
Look out for the next Counterskills
workbook from Alliance Healthcare
covering Infant feeding and
childhood ailments
Available
September
2012
skills
training
September - October 2012
COUNTERSKILLS
training programme
Infant Feeding and
Childhood Ailments
8
workbook
infant feeding
skin ailments
childhood ailments
skill builder:
advising confidently
using WWHAM
activities & assessment
merchandising aid
Supported by:
Queries relating to Counterskills should be directed to
counterskills@alliance-healthcare.co.uk or 0203 044 8964
Content developed by:
©2011 Scientia Skills Limited Copyright in the whole and every part of the workbook
belongs to Scientia Skills Limited (“the Owner”) and may not be used, sold,
transferred, copied, adapted or reproduced in the whole or in part in any manner or
form or in any media to any person without prior written consent of the Owner.
Counterskills 43
Planogram
Hair Care
This planogram has been provided as a guide to help you optimise the sales opportunity on the Head and hair category.
For a full listing see the ‘Star Ratings’ document included with this workbook which contains essential, additional and
supplementary brands within pharmacy.