The Climbers Guide to Squamish

Transcription

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Climbers Guidebooks from High Col Press
Purchase online at www.highcol.ca
This full-colour guide brings together into a single
collection 1300 of the great rockclimbs of Western
Canada, from Squamish to Lake Louise to the Ghost
River Valley, world-famous crags, popular classics,
alpine crags, and little known jewels in one of the
most beautiful regions of the world. Over 70 climbing areas are described, with over 800 topos and
photos covering sport, trad, long climbs and crags.
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The Climbers Guide to
Squamish
Free Preview Edition
The Climbers Guide to Squamish is the classic comprehensive
guidebook from Kevin McLane to one of the world’s
greatest granite rock climbing areas. Climbs described
include the long climbs on the walls of the Chief,
cragging in the Smoke Bluffs and Murrin Park, and many
outlying areas.
This free 52 page PDF Preview Edition is a sampler of
what the full book contains, showing the page detailing,
much of the extensive prologue, and galleries presenting
how the climbs and topos are detailed. If you would like
to purchase the full 552 page guidebook, please visit us
at www.highcol.ca.
This Preview Edition of The Climbers Guide to Squamish is
distributed free of charge by High Col Press.
Copyright to the book and all uncredited photos is held
by the author, Kevin McLane, and other photos are
copyrighted as identified. The Climbers Guide to Squamish
is published by Elaho Press, an imprint of High Col
Press.
§
This Preview Edition PDF file is set up as 2-page
spreads and prints neatly onto letter-size paper.
The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca
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2005
Elaho Press
Squamish
© Kevin McLane 2010
www.highcol.ca
www.highcol.ca
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The Climbers Guide To Squamish
ISBN 0-9733035-4-9
Elaho Publishing Corporation, Squamish BC.
Printed in Canada by Kromar Printing Ltd, Winnipeg, Manitoba.
§
Front:
Back:
Andrew Boyd on the Upper Black Dyke.
(top) The Chief, from near Murrin Park.
(inset left) On the Grand Wall, photo Matt Buckle.
(inset right) Sheila Steinke on the Black Dyke.
All uncredited photos by Kevin McLane.
This guide is dedicated to all those
All Rights Reserved
Other than brief quotations in reviews or for your personal onetime use on a climb, no part of this book may be reproduced in
any form, or by electronic, mechanical, or any other means without
written permission from the publisher. Nor should the information
in this guide be used for commercial products without the courtesy
of acknowledgement to both the author and the publisher.
who come to Squamish in search of
stone, adventure and discovery.
To do so will only create bad karma for you.
§
Private Property
Descriptions to climbs and trails which may lie in part on private
land indicate historical usage only, they do not imply public right
of access. Please observe any posted signs.
Please Read This!
Use of this guide must always be conducted with the required
experience, tuition, and careful judgement necessary for
safety. Rockclimbing is a potentially hazardous activity carrying
a significant risk of personal injury or death, and should only be
undertaken with a full understanding of all inherent risks. This book
is only a guide to the climbs, a composite of opinions from many
sources, some of which may not be accurate, and the information
contained may not reflect the circumstances of a particular climb
on a given day.
Elaho™ is a trademark of Elaho Publishing Corporation.
www.highcol.ca
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Navigating the Guidebook
Regional Map
................................................. 1
Introduction
..........................................12–13
Acknowledgements
............................................... 14
How to Get to Squamish
............................................... 15
How to Use This Guide
..........................................16–17
Local Services for Climbers
..........................................18–19
Courtesy and Common Sense
..........................................20–21
The Grading System
..........................................22–23
Protection and Risk
............................................... 24
Protection Gear on the Climbs
............................................... 25
Rating the Quality of the Climbs ..........................................26–27
New Route Development
..........................................28–29
Retro Work on the Crags
............................................... 30
Placing Bolts
............................................... 31
Vegetation Removal at the Crags 32–33
The Rock Is Disappearing
..........................................34–37
Weather and Climate
............................................... 38
How the Chief was Created
............................................... 39
New Routes, Feedback, and Some Reading .............................. 40
Who Owns Our Crags?
............................................... 41
Squamish Mountain Rescue
..........................................42–43
The Ten Squamish Essentials
............................................... 44
Glossary of Some Climbers’ Words ................................................
Where Do You Want To Climb? ..........................................46–47
Climbs of Quality – Long Routes ............................................... 48
Climbs of Quality – Cracks
............................................... 49
Climbs of Quality – Offwidths and Chimneys .............................. 50
Climbs of Quality – Sport Climbs ............................................... 50
Climbs of Quality – Top-Roping // First-Lead Gear Routes ......... 51
SOUTH OF MURRIN
Dynamite Alley
Seal Cove
The Quartz Pillar
The Valley Of Shaddai
Map of Valley of Shaddai
Riant Ridge Routes
Alex’s Room
Mountaineer’s Cliff
Donny’s Roof
Avalon Connection
Pillar Of Payan
Wonder Wall
Emmie’s Landing
............................................... 73
............................................... 73
............................................... 74
............................................... 76
............................................... 79
............................................... 78
............................................... 80
............................................... 81
............................................... 82
............................................... 83
............................................... 84
............................................... 85
............................................... 86
............................................. 87
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MURRIN AREA
............................................. 89
Map of Murrin Region
............................................... 88
Overview photos of the Murrin region ....................................90–92
The Bog Wall
............................................... 93
The Goo Traverse
............................................... 93
Sugarloaf
............................................... 94
Block And Tackle Area
............................................... 96
The Brunser Area
............................................... 98
Xodus Wall
............................................. 100
Milkman’s Wall
............................................. 102
North Of Milkman’s Wall
............................................. 103
Zoë
............................................. 104
Just For Fun Wall
............................................. 105
The Shaman
............................................. 106
Upper Shaman
............................................. 107
Lakeside-In-The-Woods
............................................. 108
Petrifying Wall
............................................. 110
Almost–At–The–Pet
............................................. 112
Petrifying Wall — Upper Crag ............................................. 113
Petrifying Wall — Main Crag
............................................. 116
Petrifying Wall — DOA Area
............................................. 118
Petrifying Wall — Left Side
............................................. 119
Up Among The Firs
............................................. 126
Above the Lake — Browning Bluff ............................................. 129
Above the Lake — Poltergeist Wall............................................ 129
Above the Lake — Crags in the Trees ....................................... 130
Leviticus
............................................. 132
Leviticus — Show Boat Wall
............................................. 132
Leviticus — Decibels Wall
............................................. 132
Leviticus — Main Crag
............................................. 134
Jalap Bluff
............................................. 136
Jalap — Climbs just to the North ............................................. 137
Nightmare Rock
............................................. 140
Nightmare Rock — Presto Area 142
Nightmare Rock — Wall of Dreams ....................................... 143
Nightmare Rock — Main Cliff ............................................. 144
Nightmare Rock — Far Right Side ......................................... 145
Petgill Wall
............................................. 150
Gonzales Creek Wall
............................................. 150
SHANNON—PAPOOSE
........................................... 153
The Papoose
............................................. 154
Papoose — North
............................................. 155
Papoose — Centre
............................................. 155
Papoose — South
............................................. 156
Papoose — Backside
............................................. 157
Shannon Falls
............................................. 160
Shannon Falls — Gobsmacking Wall .................................... 164
Olesen Creek Bluffs — Main Wall 166
Olesen Creek Bluffs — The Overlook ........................................ 166
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THE MALAMUTE
........................................... 169
Lower Malamute
............................................. 172
Lower Malamute — Mirkwood Forest Area ............................ 172
Lower Malamute — Grub Street Wall ..................................... 176
Lower Malamute — Overly Hanging Out Wall ....................... 178
Upper Malamute
............................................. 183
Upper Malamute — The Cage ............................................. 183
Upper Malamute — Jacob’s Wall........................................... 184
Upper Malamute — TopTier
............................................. 184
Upper Malamute — The Terraces .......................................... 185
Upper Malamute — Starr Wall ............................................. 186
Upper Malamute — Stooges Slab ......................................... 187
THE CHIEF
........................................... 203
Map of the Chief
............................................. 202
The Climbing Areas of the Chief ............................................. 204
Principal Trails of the Chief
............................................. 205
Overview photos of the Chief
....................................206—215
Photo of Chief Parking, Camping and Approach Trails ............ 217
The Bulletheads
............................................. 219
Campground Wall
............................................. 220
Bulletheads South — Slot Machine Area ............................... 222
Bulletheads South — Above Slot Machine ............................ 223
Bulletheads South — Manana Wall........................................ 223
Bulletheads Upper — Corazon Face ..................................... 224
Above Bullethead Ledge
............................................. 230
Bulletheads Central
............................................. 232
Bulletheads North
............................................. 234
Bulletheads North — Constriction Ledge .............................. 234
Bulletheads North — Turkey Ledge ....................................... 235
Bulletheads Gully
............................................. 236
Bulletheads Upper — Exit Pitch 236
Stairway to Heaven
............................................. 238
Tantalus — Dihedrals
............................................. 241
Tantalus Wall
............................................. 241
The Dihedrals
............................................. 246
The Dihedrals — Climbs at the Base ..................................... 254
The Dihedrals — Upper Climbs 255
The Base of the Grand Wall
............................................. 257
Grand Wall Base Centre — Java Jive .................................... 260
Grand Wall Base Centre — Apron Strings Area .................... 264
Grand Wall Base — Climbs Below Flake Ledge.................... 268
Grand Wall Base — Climbs Above Flake Ledge ................... 268
Grand Wall Base — North
............................................. 270
Grand Wall Base — The Boulders Rockclimbs ..................... 274
-- Cacodemon Rock
............................................. 275
-- Eleven Bolt Rock
............................................. 276
-- Animal Magnetism
............................................. 276
-- Gilligan’s Island
............................................. 276
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Long Freeclimbs on the Grand Wall ..................................... 279
Above Bellygood
............................................. 291
Climbs starting off Bellygood Ledge ...................................... 291
Climbs starting off the Upper Bellygood Trail ........................ 292
South Peak — The Penthouse ............................................. 296
South Peak — Raven’s Castle ............................................. 298
The Apron
............................................. 301
Lower Apron — Climbs Starting near the Car Park ............... 303
South Apron — Climbs Reached from Psyche Ledge .......... 304
South Apron — Climbs Starting near Diedre ......................... 305
Central Apron — Climbs Starting near Snake ....................... 309
North Apron — Climbs Starting near Evergreen State .......... 312
North Apron — Climbs Starting off Baseline Ledge .............. 314
North Apron — Short Climbs Below Broadway ..................... 315
Upper Apron — Climbs off the South of Broadway ............... 316
Highly Recommended Link-Ups on the Apron ...................... 323
The South Gully
............................................. 327
Squamish Buttress
............................................. 328
Squamish Buttress — Kashmir Wall ...................................... 329
Apron North Face
............................................. 332
Opal Wall
............................................. 336
Left of the Opal Wall
............................................. 337
Echelon Wall
............................................. 340
The Prow Wall
............................................. 341
The North Walls
............................................. 345
The Sheriff’s Badge
............................................. 347
North Gully — Approach Trail Climbs .................................... 347
The Badge — Long Climbs at the Left side ........................... 348
The Badge — Climbs off Caramba Terrace ........................... 349
The Badge — Climbs up to the Terrace ................................. 349
The Badge — Climbs starting from the Terrace..................... 350
The Angel’s Crest
............................................. 354
Zodiac Wall
............................................. 359
Zodiac Wall — Climbs at the Base ......................................... 359
Zodiac Wall — Astro Ledge Climbs ....................................... 360
The Promised Land
............................................. 364
The Squaw
............................................. 369
The Squaw — Klootch Area
............................................. 376
The Squaw — Dog Wall Area ............................................. 378
The Backside of the Chief
............................................. 381
The Heliopolis
............................................. 383
North Peak Trailside Climbs
............................................. 388
The White Cliff
............................................. 390
The Cirque of the Uncrackables ............................................ 392
Punk Rock
............................................. 397
Short and Curly
............................................. 397
The Solarium
............................................. 398
Backside — Above And Beyond ............................................ 404
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THE SMOKE BLUFFS
........................................... 429
The Main Trails Around The Smoke Bluffs ................................ 430
Choosing A Place To Climb
............................................. 431
Map of the Smoke Bluffs
....................................432—433
Overview photos of the Smoke Bluffs ..............................434—441
Blind Channel Crags
Fatty Bolger
............................................. 442
Ferret’s Folly
............................................. 443
The Boys of Porteau
............................................. 444
The Zip
............................................. 445
Island In The Sky
............................................. 446
High Cliff
............................................. 448
Car Park Crags
Boulder Gully
............................................. 450
Turbocharger
............................................. 452
The Pleasure Palace
............................................. 454
Crag X
............................................. 455
Crag X — Lower Wall
............................................. 455
Crag X — Easter Island Area ............................................. 456
Crag X — Sniffler and Snorter ............................................. 456
Crag X — Upper Wall
............................................. 457
The Black Zawn
............................................. 460
Crystal Wall
............................................. 462
Krack Rock
............................................. 463
The Smoke Bluff Wall Area
............................................. 464
Smoke Bluff Wall — Cabin Boy’s Office................................. 465
Smoke Bluff Wall — Laughing Crack Area ............................ 466
Smoke Bluff Wall — Zombie Roof Area ................................. 467
Smoke Bluff Wall — Mosquito Area ....................................... 468
Smoke Bluff Wall — Upper Levels ......................................... 469
Smoke Bluff Wall — Battered Balls ........................................ 472
Neat And Cool
Neat and Cool
............................................. 473
Neat and Cool — South Side ............................................. 478
Burgers And Fries
Burgers and Fries — Main Cliff ............................................. 480
Burgers and Fries — Who Needs Pro? .................................. 484
Burgers and Fries — South
............................................. 485
Burgers and Fries — Alexis
............................................. 485
Penny Lane
West Penny — Lunch Break Wall ........................................... 487
West Penny — Far West Buttress .......................................... 488
West Penny — Cuticle Death ............................................. 488
Penny Lane — The Main Cliff ............................................. 489
East Penny Gully
............................................. 492
Bughouse Heights
............................................. 497
Bughouse Heights — Loop Trail Stairs .................................. 498
Pixie Corner
............................................. 500
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Upper Crags
Split Beaver
Pink Cliff
One Toque Wall
Octopus’ Garden
Funarama
Fern Gully
Ronin’s Corner
Minor Smoke Bluffs Crags
Lumberland
Spiderfly
Free And Easy
Cockburns
Nubile Woman
Call It A Day
Cheap Mango Wall
Tunnel Rock
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............................................. 502
............................................. 504
............................................. 506
............................................. 507
............................................. 512
............................................. 514
............................................. 515
............................................. 521
............................................. 521
............................................. 521
............................................. 522
............................................. 522
............................................. 523
............................................. 523
............................................. 523
Other Climbing Areas
Shannon Creek FSR
............................................. 524
Dryden Creek
............................................. 524
Comic Rocks
............................................. 525
West Side of Howe Sound
............................................. 527
The Art Gallery
............................................. 527
Crumpit Woods — Fern Hill
............................................. 527
Crumpit Woods — The Sanctuary ............................................. 528
Stawamus River Valley — Fluffy Kitten Wall .............................. 532
Alice Lake — De Beck’s Hill
............................................. 537
Climbs Not Included in Main Text 538
Index of Climbs
............................................. 539
The Back Page
............................................. 552
Advertisers
Association of Canadian Mountain Guides ................................ 68
Arcteryx
............................................. 198
Climb On
............................................... 65
Climbers Access Society
............................................. 424
Diamond Head Lodgings
............................................. 417
Fringe Filmworks
............................................. 419
Elaho Press
............................................... 71
Gripped Magazine
............................................... 56
Howe Sound Inn and Brew Pub ............................................... 60
Mountain Equipment Coop
............................................. 423
Slipstream Rock Climbing
............................................. 190
Valhalla Pure
............................................. 193
West Coast Mountain Guides
............................................... 67
Whistler Alpine Guides Bureau ............................................... 54
Wild Rock Adventures
............................................. 197
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Introduction
Introduction
t is now 43 years since the first edition of the guide to the granite
climbs of Squamish was first published, about 70 pitches in a few
loose pages by Jim Baldwin. As then, this guide is also a comprehensive reference to those first climbs, and to the 3,000 or so pitches
that have seen first ascents in the decades since.
The climbing and establishing of new routes lies at the heart of
the climbing life. It is what motivates the very best climbers, those
with dedication, skill, the vision to explore and push boundaries, and
perhaps soak up a little glory here and there. Without such effort there
would be no climbs for anyone.
A guidebook such as this has the appearance of being a reference
to physical places, to stone, and names, and grades. That is misleading,
as it is really about people, their ambitions, and their passions. Without
them, there would be no need for any guide. So the guide’s purpose
is straightforward; to help people discover the richness of the climbing
life that exists at Squamish, to serve as their personal resource of great
things-to-do; and, it is hoped, as a doorway to self-discovery through
the art of rock-climbing.
The geographic area of the guide runs from just south of Britannia
to the Smoke Bluffs, and extends up the Stawamus River Valley to
the east side of Mount Habrich. The Chief and Malamute are the
centrepiece with most of the climbing, and the Smoke Bluffs and the
greater Murrin area contribute about one quarter each.
The size and complexity of this guide has meant some trimming
has been necessary. Only a selection of the most popular and easier
aid walls are described, pointing to the timeliness of a dedicated guide
to all the aid climbs of Squamish. The guide no longer covers climbs
south of Comic Rocks for similar reasons of lack of space. No bouldering is covered because a separate guide by Marc Bourdon does that
very well, and this guide is about rockclimbs.
Astute observers will notice some tightening-up of grades to
address some longstanding anomalies, a retrenchment of quality stars
to highlight the best climbs, and a re-appraisal of some climbs better
considered to be variants of more substantial neighbours.
Squamish is the world’s leading urban climbing centre, and is
evolving toward becoming the most popular rock destination in North
America. The immediate proximity of the climbing, the rich diversity
of different things to do, from sport climbs to 16-pitch routes on the
Chief, ocean-side crags, sunny faces and shady walls, and hundreds
of splitter cracks, are the core of that interest. This, and the Squamish
mantle of ‘The Outdoor Recreation Capital of Canada’, have brought
a resident population of hundreds of committed climbers, a thriving
social scene, and many complementary activities that allow visitors
from anywhere to immerse themselves in enriching experiences.
The last edition of this guide was published in 1999, and in the
six years since, the pace of new climb development has continued
unabated. Since the early 1980s, new rockclimbs have evolved at an
average of about 40–50 every year in the area covered by this guide,
and there is no sign of the pace slowing down.
The establishing of fine long routes on the Chief continues, of
which Midnight Run (12b), The Ultimate Everything (10b), Millennium
Falcon (11b), and Stairway to Heaven (10c) are prime examples. The
latter is a remarkable linkup of 16 entirely bolt-protected pitches. A
spectacular event of the last few years was the entirely free, 5.13a
ascent of the Grand Wall in July 2000 by Americans Scott Cosgrove
and Annie Overlin, every pitch to the top of the Roman Chimneys.
Climbers continue to explore new places and find good new
crags. There are fine linkups evolving, as centres like the Apron and
Bulletheads become laced with a maze of interwoven pitches, a move
toward choosing preferred combinations of pitches as climbers look
for quality on their way up the bigger crags.
The growth of interest in rockclimbing has brought many
changes—over the last fifteen years in particular—and pressure on
the climbs is growing. The most popular routes can see an almost
unbroken line of ascents at busy times, and even the lower Backside
trail is now gridlocked with hikers on peak days. Pause and ask
yourself where we’ll be ten years from now.
Almost all of our crags fall under the jurisdiction of a provincial
government agency or the municipal government of Squamish.
Increasing numbers of people and their impacts bring pressures that
government cannot ignore, so if we want our climbing to be valued,
accessible, and new routes continuing to emerge, we must engage and
speak for our interests, and also address the consequences.
This guide is for everyone who climbs at Squamish, no small task
today when that ranges from families who just want a little top-roping,
to clip-and-go sportheads, to climbers who enjoy a blast of strong
adrenaline every week, and for those who like a little of everything.
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Enjoy the guide and all it has to offer.
Kevin McLane
May 2005.
www.highcol.ca
Acknowledgements
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How to Get to Squamish
I
would like to extend a sincere thank you to the many people who
have helped in the production of this guidebook; supplying new
route information, offering advice (whether asked for or not), drawing
topos, reviewing descriptions and topos, and much more. The guide
as it is would not have been possible without their support and
knowledge, and it would have been a lot less fun to pull it off.
My special thanks are due to Jeremy Blumel, Andrew Boyd, Robin
Barley, Kris Wild, Matt Maddaloni, Colin Moorhead, John Howe, Jeff
Thomson, James Laurie, Pat Delaney, Anders Ourom, Fred Beckey,
Drew Brayshaw, Mandoline Clark, Kai Hirvonen, and Annie Roy for
their perceptive insights and enthusiasm, Barry McLane for graphics
work, and Ana Santos for wickedly sharp editing. Ten people have
generously contributed outstanding photos: Paul Bride (www.paulbride.
com), Chris Joseph, Dave Humphries (www.redpoint.com), Rich
Wheater (www.richwheater.com), Matt Buckle (www.matthewbuckle.
net), Jai Condon, David Harris, Kai Hirvonen, Andrew Lainis and
Gord Ross.
.
and..
Chris Atkinson
Marc Bourdon
Tyrone Brett
Jesse Brown
Matt Buckle
Adam Diamond
Alan Douglas
Mike Duffy
Derek Flett
Jeremy Frimer
John Furneaux
Brian Gould
George Hanzal
Pete Hill
Andre Ike
Chris Joseph
Tony McLane
Hamish Mutch
Brian Pegg
Gord Ross
Annie Roy
Rolf Rybak
Jim Sandford
Jim Sinclair
Jody Smith-Hodgson
Ed Spat
Sheila Steinke
Chris Stoltz
Rich Wheater
Peter Winter
Glenn Woodsworth
Harry Young
...and to anyone I have
missed, my apologies
And to all who, over the years, have sent emails, letters, stopped
me on the street or at the crag to give me an earful, comment, advice
or suggestions on what they’d like to see “in the next guide”, I thank
you all, and welcome such feedback at any time.
Past editions of the comprehensive guide to Squamish rockclimbs
Jim Baldwin
Dick Culbert
Glenn Woodsworth
Dick Culbert
Gordie Smaill
Anders Ourom
Jim Campbell
Kevin McLane
Kevin McLane
A Climber’s Guide To The Squamish Chief .................... 1962
A Climber’s Guide To The Coastal Ranges of BC ........... 1965
Alpine Guide To Southwestern BC ................................. 1974
Squamish Chief Guide ................................................... 1975
Squamish Rockclimbs ..................................................... 1985
The Rockclimbers Guide to Squamish ............................. 1992
The Climbers Guide to Squamish ..................................... 1999
S
quamish is located on the southwest coast of British Columbia,
Canada, about 60km north of the city of Vancouver. The rugged
mountainous coastline of British Columbia is one of the world’s great
scenic wonders, a land of deep inlets and great forests of tall douglas
fir, cedar and hemlock. High mountain ranges and vast icefields
tumble from the interior into the ocean. The dense forest landscape
and the corresponding lush undergrowth are a hallmark of almost all
the crags in this guide.
The population of Squamish is around 17,000 and growing fast,
swelling to many more than that in the spring to fall period. This is the
centre of a world-class playground for adventure sports. Rockclimbing,
mountainbiking, alpine hiking, backcountry skiing, windsurfing,
mountaineering, and whitewater rafting are all major activities and
opportunities, and now define Squamish to the world.
Highway 99 from Vancouver to Squamish and Whistler is
legendary for heavy traffic, with travellers heading for the playgrounds
north of the city. Be prepared for slow driving at busy periods. Over
the next few years, the Highway will be undergoing a major rebuild,
widening to four lanes in many places with corresponding construction
delays. The Ministry of Transportation makes considerable effort to
time closures to minimise delay, but check in at their website: www.
seatoskyimprovements.ca for current information. Plan your travel
times to suit favourable periods.
If you arrrive at Vancouver International Airport. Squamish
is an hour and a half to the north by bus or rented car. Bus travellers
can take the airport shuttle bus to Pacific Central Station at Main
and Terminal in downtown Vancouver (800) 661-8747. Look for the
Pemberton or Whistler bus, which runs several times a day.
Approaching Vancouver from the east. Stay on Highway 1 to
Horseshoe Bay, then continue along Highway 99 to Squamish. It is
about a one hour drive from downtown Vancouver.
Approaching Squamish from the north or the Rockies. Exit
the Trans Canada Highway at Cache Creek, head north on Highway
97 for 12km to a junction with Highway 99. This is a scenic mountain
route to Squamish through Lillooet, Pemberton, and Whistler enroute.
Approaching Squamish from US Interstate 5. Head north from
Bellingham directly to the Trans-Canada Highway, east of Vancouver.
Stay on it, bypassing Vancouver to reach Highway 99 to Squamish.
There have also been about 6 other guides that covered the climbs in part.
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How to Use this Guide
How to Use this Guide
A
few minutes spent studying these pages will help make it easier
to understand how to use this guide, and the meanings of the
various symbols and abbreviations used throughout.
 To find a crag. Use the Navigating The Guidebook, pages 6–9.
 To find a climb. Use the Index, pages 539—551.
 Protecting Yourself. Read pages 24–25.
 Topos. In most cases, a photograph is used as the base for a topo
of a crag, and overview images of an area. The intention is to show
context and a view of the crag as well as route detail. Line-drawings
are used where such photos are not possible, or where more detail is
required. Some photos are ghosted to allow clarity of text.
 Page flipping. Topos of climbs will almost always follow text
descriptions, and in the case of larger areas, topos have occasionally
been consolidated into groups for ease-of-use at the end of the text.
 Headers and Footers. Use them to help navigate the guide.
 Variations. There has been a random consolidation of ‘routes’
which are more properly considered variations of a more significant
climb. Where known, names and credits have been applied.
 Right and left assume the climber to be facing the rock.
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 Camping. There are several campgrounds in the valley. The
preferred one for climbers is the BC Parks campground at the Chief,
with 60 walk-in sites. Another is the Municipal campground at Brennan
Park Leisure Centre, a kilometre north of the Smoke Bluffs. Both sites
are first-come, first-served. BC Parks also operates a major drive-in
site at Alice Lake Park, 10km north of Squamish, usually desperately
full in summer. Several other private campgrounds exist.
 Hiking. For an easy walk of a half-hour or so, head for the
Squamish River estuary. An excellent map is available at the nearby
Howe Sound Brew Pub and the Tourist Information Centre.
 Groceries. There are two large supermarkets in Squamish town
centre: Save-On Foods in the Chieftain Centre, and IGA Marketplace
in Squamish Station Mall. Both have good vegetarian supplies. Health
Food Heaven beside Starbucks is a good source for alternatives.
 Tourist Information. The Squamish Adventure Centre on
Highway 99 by the Smoke Bluffs is the one-stop place for almost
anything you may wish to know about Squamish services. Hotels,
motels, bed and breakfast, private campgrounds, and many activities
and things to do on rest days.
20
 Restaurants. Squamish is full of them, but some in the Town
Centre area are especially popular with climbers. For evenings on the
main street in the Town Centre, try Yianni’s (Greek); excellent food.
The North Beach at the Howe Sound Brew Pub is more upmarket,
but offers some of the best food in Squamish. The Mountain Burger
House (24hrs) on Cleveland Avenue is good for old-style breakfasts
and burgers. Taco Bell and Wendy’s on the Highway are the best
fast-food choices for vegetarians.
 Pubs. Only one has caught the interest of climbers: the Howe
Sound Brew Pub at the south end of Cleveland Ave. Deservedly so:
with fine beers from their own microbrewery, including the legendary
Baldwin & Cooper Ale (the first ascentionists of the Grand). The food
is excellent, and the place is the climbers’ social centre of Squamish.

Lattes & Goodies. Several places are popular.
 The Sunflower Bakery on the next block of Cleveland Ave: great
baked goods and a long-time favourite of climbers.
 Starbucks in Squamish Station Mall, a popular gathering place
for morning where-shall-we-go sessions in the sun;
 Pause Cafe on Cleveland Ave; a casual, social atmosphere.
 Gelato Place on Cleveland Ave; a casual, social atmosphere.
 Brackendale Bistro for real breakfasts.
 Eagle Run Cafe in Brackendale.
 Brennan Park Leisure Centre. Great for cheap showers, the
hot tub and a large modern swimming pool. It’s on Loggers Lane, a
kilometre north of the Smoke Bluffs car park.
 Mountainbiking. Squamish is the major centre for mountainbiking in Canada, so if you can, bring your bike along (or rent one)
and head for the trails on rained-out days.
 The Public Library. The excellent public library is well worth
visiting on rest days, or to check your e-mail; a nice place to spend
time in pursuit of study or quiet reading. It’s on Second Ave in the
Town Centre, three blocks south of the Chieftain Centre.







Guiding.
Four guiding services have placed ads in this guide.
West Coast Mountain Guides ..... see
Slipstream Rock Climbing ........... see
Wild Rock Adventures ................. see
Whistler Alpine Guides Bureau .. see
their
their
their
their
ad
ad
ad
ad
on
on
on
on
www.highcol.ca
page
page
page
page
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54
Climbing Gear. There are two climbers stores:
Climb On, in the Chieftain Centre Mall is where you should
be able to get all you need for the crags and the peaks. The
new route book lives there, and there’s a small bouldering cave.
Valhalla Pure beside the IGA supermarket near the Highway,
with a full range of outdoor equipment and clothing.
The Climbing Gym. Still don’t have one... Do we need it?
Bank Machines. There are ATMs at the 4 banking institutions
in Squamish Town Centre, and at both the major supermarkets.
Post Office. On Cleveland Ave, near the Sunflower Bakery.
Courier Service. From Connections, at 604-892-3335.
Useful information sources for those seeking more information
about the Squamish area and many other facilities:
Squamish Tourist Information ................866-333-2010
District of Squamish
....................www.squamish.ca (604) 892-5217
BC Parks
....................(604) 898-3678
Squamish General Hospital ....................(604) 892-5211
Highway 99 Construction Status ...........www.seatoskyimprovements.ca
Bus Service (Greyhound to Squamish) (604) 898-3914 (800-661-8747)
BC Forest Service
....................(604) 898-2100
Environment Canada Weather ................www..weather.ec.gc.ca
Squamish Information website ...............www.mysquamish.com
Emergency
....................911
Police (RCMP) non-emergency ..............(604) 898-9611
 Browning Lake at Murrin is a great place for an evening swim
after a hot summer’s day.
21
www.highcol.ca
22
W
herever people congregate and seek the same thing, some
common courtesies go a long way to providing the most fulfilling
experiences for everyone.
 Falcons. If you wish to climb a long route in the Dihedrals
area of the Chief between April and late July, check first to see if it
is closed due to nesting peregrines. Be aware of all nesting birds, and
stay clear. Check the Access Society’s website: www.access-society.ca

Toilets.
Please use them.
 Dogs. Keep your dog on a leash and under your control. This
can be an awkward situation at the crags for others who are less
comfortable with a dog’s behaviour than their owners.
 Stay on the trails. Always try to stay on a defined trail to
minimise erosion. Areas of special concern are the numerous trails
in the Grand Wall Boulders and Smoke Bluffs.

23
Thieves. Protect yourself. Lock it. Stash it. Don’t advertise it.
 Be courteous to other climbers. We are all entitled to enjoy
our days on the rock, but when we are at popular crags on busy days,
it strains common courtesy to be overly slow and dallying around
when other climbers nearby may want to do the climb. Courtesy and
understanding go a long way toward more harmony for everyone.
 In-situ quickdraws. If a climb has quickdraws in place, do not
remove them: they belong to someone else. Climbing the route and
using them is okay. However, if you equip a route with draws, remove
them as soon as possible.
 Registration. Compulsory registration is not required for any
of the climbs in this guide. But if you are planning a bivy on a route,
avoid a situation where your vehicle is parked suggestive of someone
late or overdue. Tell friends: leave a note on the windshield.
 Fire. In recent years, hot summers have created a serious fire
hazard. Crag closures are possible. Learn about fire protection.
 No-trace bivouacs. If you are up on a wall and need to pull
a bivy, leave your site or ledge with no trace of your presence. This
includes hauling your own garbage and human waste.
 Large groups. If you operate a guiding business or teach a
large group, please avoid monopolising popular crags and routes. To
teach anywhere in the Squamish Municipality or in provincial parks, you must
have a business licence or valid permit, respectively: or both.
 Throwing haulbags. No, not any more. Those days are gone.
Someone might think it is a body, and you will have the Cliff Rescue
Group after you. Besides, you might hit someone.
 Helmets. Their use is becoming more common, principally due
to the increasing risk of falling rock and objects from climbers above;
and the changing demographic of rockclimbing is bringing with it a
lower tolerance for personal risk.
 First-come, first-served, but... When you are on a route, you’re
under no obligation to allow other climbers behind you to pass. If
you’re stuck behind a slower party, such as on the Grand Wall, please
accept the situation as it is. It is also generous to allow a faster party
to pass, and with good spirit, everyone gains. If climbers allow you
to pass, be thankful, and buy them a beer later.
 Avoid excessive top-roping. Excessive top-roping on popular
climbs polishes the rock: that’s a fact and is an irreversible process:
look at Flying Circus. Damage can be reduced by avoiding top-rope
sessions on popular classic climbs until your skill is up to leading them
without falls, or better yet, avoid such climbs entirely. Please exercise
restraint and have fun flailing on easier, less-travelled routes. It is the
pressure of climbers flailing above their ability level that does
most damage to the rock.
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 Respond if hailed. If you are bivouaced, warm and snug and
the RCMP start bellowing up from below asking if you are okay:
respond! Someone, often Squamish residents with good intentions,
will have reported you as ‘stuck’. Don’t ignore appeals, you are simply
wasting others’ time. Shout back; they’ll hear you...
 Nearby residences. This is a situation unique to some parts of
the Smoke Bluffs. Please keep noise down, always be courteous, and
do not bother the residents. And always know that you are entitled
to be there; the climbs and access to them are public land.
 Take responsibility for yourself. The decision to go climbing
brings an inherent acceptance of all the risks involved, including the
not-so-obvious. There are not only your own self-induced risks, but
also those from above and from below. Rock and objects fall from the
cliffs, perhaps onto you, and belayers are human and make mistakes,
just as you do yourself.
 Avoid social distractions. When belaying, do not allow yourself
to be distracted by social yakking with other climbers, and don’t
distract someone watching over children and belaying.
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24
The Grading System
The Grading System
25
F
or fledgelings who have little idea what the art of technical grading
and the fine points of good style are all about, rest assured you are
in good company: it can all be very confusing.
The grading system used in this guide has its origins in the Taquitz
Decimal System, developed in the 1930s in California, now better
known as the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). It uses a five-tier
method of assessing the difficulty of terrain.
The Yosemite Decimal System
Grades One and Two are no longer used, but refer to walking on
easy terrain or steep hills. The Backside Trail is a Grade 2.
Third class is scrambling terrain where a rope is considered not
necessary. The difficulty of ‘scrambling’ will vary widely depending
on the skill of the climber. It is 5.10 for some people.
Fourth-Class defines climbing that requires only a rope and belays.
It is a term that has less relevance today, as the excellence of modern
protection gear ensures few pitches are unprotectable. Most ‘fourth’
terrain of the past is more properly described as ‘low-fifth’.
Fifth Class refers to technical rockclimbing requiring both ropes and
protection equipment. Grades from 5.10 (‘five-ten’) upward are further
subdivided into a, b, c, and d. The stated grades should always be
used as a guide to the difficulty, not a definitive statement.
The Fifth-Class Climbing Grades
Grades applied to sport climbs are generally in line with those on gear
routes, but most climbers will lead at least two letter-grades lower on
gear leads than sport. The words below are for gear leads.
5.6-5.8 The thrill of real climbing on open stone in the wind and
sun, without taxing yourself hard, or cold-sweating about your demise.
5.9
You’re getting there, and the rock is getting steeper.
5.10 The happy level that most accomplished weekend warriors are
able to lead: the doorway to the great climbs of Squamish.
5.11 This will get you onto the great majority of stellar routes. It is
an ideal level to achieve, but requires training for most people, or
regular hard climbing. Steady work can feel like a drag.
5.12 Requires much time at the crag, training, and natural talent.
Hard to achieve with gainful employment, but some do manage it.
5.13 Demands great talent and full dedication. Employment is seen,
at best, as an irritant.
5.14 Well, keep trying.
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Rating the technical difficulty is the intent of the Yosemite
Decimal System. In practice, however, it is not possible to hold rigidly
to that principle, or dramatic pitches such as the 5.10b Split Pillar
would be graded 5.9 (it feels more like 5.11a). It is human nature that
experience-based reactions affect the perceived (hence real) difficulty
of rockclimbs. Getting a good feel for grades takes time.
The atmosphere of a climb is also affected by the perception
of difficulty when seen through the lens of not-so-great protection,
relentlessly sustained effort, bolts every two metres, or the quality of
the rock, or extraordinary exposure. A single grade is limiting, so an
‘overall’ grade, as used on alpine climbs, has its place. One day...
High-angle face climbs can be difficult to grade with
consistent assurance, as the characteristics of success; tiny footholds,
shoe types, rubber, height, and the slickness of hot sun versus the
stickiness of cool shade make it difficult. Expect inconsistencies.
Offwidth grades can confound climbers. The technique seems
to be so unnatural that most climbers must learn it the hard way. That
is such a grind (literally), that it’s no surprise they have never proven
very popular. The few climbers who are naturally adept seem to
find them “easy”. Encouragingly, the availability of really big cams
is spurring a rising popularity in offwidths.
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26
Protection and Risk
P
rotecting yourself and travelling with acceptable risk on a rock
or alpine climb is an art more than a science, and the bedrock of
the skill is hard-earned experience, ingenuity, and good judgement.
Experience is what we learn from the difficult and pleasant situations
we encounter, ingenuity is creative application to problem-solving, and
good judgement is an inner compass that acts as our natural instinct
for making decisions. All are essential.
For the rockclimber to be adept at placing protection equipment
(‘gear’), from tiny wires and cams, to slings and threaders and all the
tricks of the trade, is a critical skill for full engagement. Squamish
climbs range from offwidths to sport climbs, with every conceivable
type of climb between, with good protection and not, and up to 16
pitches long.
Protection ratings are not included in the route descriptions
due to the near-impossibility of maintaining a reliable standard across
all Squamish climbs, and for it to have equal meaning across the skill
levels of so many climbers. What may feel “a bit runout” to some
climbers can feel like a joust with death to others. It all depends on
your attitude, and a grading system can’t help there. Paradoxically,
the most serious climbs, and climbs which offer very good and easyto-place protection, are relatively easy to identify, but the vast middle
ground is difficult.
Where possible and where known (note that last phrase), the
route descriptions try to give hints and direct comment, and capture the
flavour of some of the bolder and more out-there situations. Expect
surprises. The climbers who are most at risk in these situations are
not the better climbers, who tend to have an acquired sense of what’s
appropriate and where, it is the novices who have difficulty assessing
situations, and those who overstep their abilities.
Climbs noted as ‘runout’, ‘bold’, ‘serious’, and similar warning
phrases do not cover all such situations, as that is not possible to
address. The harder and more famous climbs tend to be well-known,
but the easier, and the little-travelled climbs can hold many surprises.
And what was okay once may not be now, and modern gear can make
what was once a runout situation less so. Always be aware.
Conversely, climbs noted as ‘sport’ indicate those which have
all-fixed protection, enough to place them at the low end of the risk
spectrum, while ‘sport+’ indicates the use of only a small amount of
gear is desirable, usually one to three pieces.
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Protection Gear on the Climbs
27
W
hen assessing the protection gear required for a climb, it is
essential to apply a large dose of common sense, and recognize
your own comfort level at how much gear you need. Over the years,
the assortment of the most-used gear for full pitches has become known
as The Squamish Rack.
–
–
–
–
–
–
10 to 12 wire nuts, 8mm to 25mm.
a single set of cams from thin fingers to full hand (8 or so).
small RP-style wires, #3 up to #5 (3 or 4).
a half-dozen or so standard tape slings; 2 biners each.
a half-dozen or so quickdraws.
a cordelette and a nut tool.

Doubling-up on particular cam sizes is common where necessary,
as is adding more wires or cams of a size specific to the climb. If you
know the pitch is going to be a hard struggle; better safe than sorry.
 Larger cams and special sizes of wires considered essential are
noted where possible and known. It is not possible, due to constraints
of space and knowledge, to detail a gear list for every climb, and some
climbers would not care for that anyway.
 Thin fingers and thin hands, leaning to the finger sizes are the
most common size of gear placed in Squamish, and on most pitches
you can expect to meet a bolt or two.
 Bouldering pads are now showing up at the crags, as climbers
try to safeguard highball starts and serious single-pitch situations.
 Brand names of climbing gear are not used in the guide, as
they can be of little help unless you are of that particular tribe.
 The choice of protection devices and brands is very wide,
and all climbers evolve their own favourites.
 The sixty metre rope is most commonly used. On some
climbs, double ropes offer more security. They help reduce rope drag
and improve marginal protection; essential for some routes.
 At all times, be attentive, be mindful, and be aware of your
surroundings, including social distractions when belaying. There is no
substitute for recognizing the limits of your experience, having good
judgement, and above all, being self-reliant.
Competence at assessing and placing protection, setting up
belays and good rope handling, are fundamental, life-preserving
skills for the climber and should never be underestimated.
Caveat emptor.
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28
Rating the Quality of the Climbs
T
he quality of the climbs in this guide is rated by means of the
conventional three-star system, with a couple special add-ons to
reflect the nature of Squamish climbs.
Over the course of several decades, the application of quality stars, a
subjective proposition at best, has become increasingly random and
not adhering to any clear, defined criteria. This guide attempts to make
some correction to this evolved haphazardness by a more rigorous
application of quality stars.
These criteria are most easily applied to single-pitch climbs, where
the quality of the actual climbing rates as more relevant than its local
environment (Just Blessed). However, on multi-pitch and full-height
routes on the Chief, there are very few climbs that hold a high standard
on every pitch, so the very different ambience and “feel” of long climbs
must be considered too.
Rating the Quality of the Climbs
29
Multi-Pitch climbs
In the case of longer climbs, the nature of the surroundings and
continuity has high impact on the overall enjoyment gained, and this
guide tries to apply a more experiential-based quality rating than is
the case for shorter climbs.
For the accolade of ‘three stars’ on a multi-pitch route, most pitches
would need to be of a high calibre, with little or no poor climbing,
and the overall atmosphere highly enjoyable: the essence of great
climbing. By example, some climbs like The Ultimate Everything have
no outstanding pitches, but its fine position on Echelon Wall, and a
top-out on the summit, merit a higher rating (two stars) than any single
pitch. The imprint on the mind and the feel of the climb as a whole
is taken as its measure.
Start climbing well
There are several characteristics that climbers broadly recognize
as belonging to the very finest rockclimbs; routes that are the very
essence and thrill of why we live the climbing life. They are listed in
two groups below, the first being more or less essential for three star
routes in this guide, while of the second group are highly desirable.
Of all the climbs in the guide, a little over one-third have quality
stars applied, and to no surprise, the majority of climbs at each of the
quality levels are 5.10d or harder. This is reflection, perhaps, of the
preference for situations of exposure and steepness.
Core characteristics of the finest pitches
Any climber familiar with Squamish knows that the better climbs tend
to be grouped together at the better crags. That’s a fact. They are often
the most popular places too, especially if the grades are moderate.
With a willingness to do some exploring in little-travelled areas, many
quality climbs and fine days on the stone can be enjoyed.




An “Oh my God, that must be it” kind of line.
A distinct line of weakness that cannot be escaped to easier terrain.
Clean rock, and of fine quality.
Consistently outstanding moves, or flows of superb sequences.
Finding the best climbs
The Squamish Quality Star System
Some desirable secondary characteristics





Sustained difficulty: at minimum, few easy sections.
A crux high on a pitch after a sustained battle.
Steep, steep rock.
A high degree of exposure, and much air beneath your feet.
Climbing that delights by being easier than it appears.
***½ Climbs of stratospheric quality.
***
The great climbs of Squamish.
**
Exceptional climbs, the bedrock of the great climbs of Squamish.
*
A very good climb, a weekend on these routes is time well spent.
none
Everything else except smileys and black dots.
Sport climbs

In the case of sport routes, the same desirable criteria for the finest
pitches apply, and also a few more, as the sense of artificiality
introduced by ill-planned bolting can detract from the highest
enjoyment of the climbing experience.
A good climb that is prone to becoming vegetated, or is badly
in need of a retro, but otherwise meriting stars.

A heavily vegetated climb, or otherwise hopeless case.
Or, if you prefer...
 Bolts that are well-located.
 As few of them as are reasonably practical.
 In resting locations as natural as can be arranged.
***
**
*
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Quit any other kind of life, live and breathe for this stuff.
Sell everything and move to Squamish.
As good as a five-star route in most other places.
www.highcol.ca
30
C
limbing is a game which exists without written rules, but with a
set of conventions based on fair play and trust that have evolved
over the last century. At Squamish, how you climb a new route is
pretty much your own business, provided you don’t spoil the game
for others and you accurately report how you did it.
There are few things more satisfying in climbing than putting up a
new route. It is a contribution to the game that thousands of people
may enjoy long after you are gone, and a personal statement from
you that other climbers will appreciate. To do it well is an art, and
you will need excellent rope-skills, energy, and a willingness to work
hard and alone.
Always remember you are making a permanent alteration to the
natural environment, and people will be looking at your work, with
your name on it, 100 years from now: make it good. It is a good idea
to take the advice below to heart. It is a summary of the knowledge
and experience of many career climbers.
Valid Leading Ascent Styles
A first ascent is just that: the first time someone gets to the top.
However, a pitch is considered free only if it has been climbed as
an On-Sight, Redpoint, Flash, or by Headpoint. Some long climbs
can become protracted endeavours with many climbers involved,
climbing many pitches to eventually establish the route as ‘free’. The
First Continuous Free Ascent (FCFA), no falls no rests, no aid of any
kind whatsoever, is the Holy Grail in such cases.

On-Sight. The purest of the pure: climbing at its very finest. No
falls your first time ever on a route, and no prior hint of how to make
moves, solve cruxes, or protection beta.
 Redpoint. Climbing a sport route or pitch with no falls after
previous attempts. The redpoint evolved from the yo-yo of the mid1980s, which is an ascent with falls where the rope is not pulled.

Flash. No falls on your first time ever on a route, but you already
had inside knowledge of moves, cruxes or protection beta. A beta flash
is one where someone literally talks you up move by move.

Headpointing. This is the application of redpoint techniques to
gear routes; usually very hard and serious ones. The moves are worked
on top-rope; gear placements are perfected, the landing padded. Once
you feel sure of yourself, you pray and go for it.
31
T
hink carefully before you embark on new route development, not
only in terms of your own ambition, but also the consequences
of what your proposed route will mean for the good of the climbing
community in the long-term.
 Don’t squeeze. Another bolted route squeezed in tight to a classic or
popular line is a dubious asset.
 Gear. Use natural gear wherever possible, it has less impact on the
rock, and leaves no trace. If you need to place a bolt, keep it well away
from natural placements.
 Is it wise to encourage bolting of nondescript routes that are little
more than the size of highball boulder problems?
 Is it wise to bolt more pitches on the near gridded-out Apron?
 Many, many high-angle granite faces can be forced given enough
skill, rubber and bolts. But how many such lines of bolts are of real
benefit to the climbing community?
 Grade carefully. Try to assess the grade of your route fairly for onsight leaders. If your experience is limited, it’s wise to be honest and
ask more experienced climbers for input.
 Mark your project. Use a ribbon or a sign to alert others that a project
is in progress, and get on with the job and finish it. If someone is
diligently trying to raise their standard to a difficult route, be patient
and encourage them.
 Cash. Equipping new climbs, especially multi-pitch or sport routes,
can be pricey. A 25m sport route usually costs at least $50, so do it
right. Pay your own way, the bolt fund is for retro work.
 Trails. If you open a new crag, you’ll end up with a trail to it.
Consider it part of the task and define it well.
 Rappel inspection, cleaning, and placing fixed pro if required prior
to a first ascent, and ground-up on-sight leading, are all accepted.
 Don’t chip. This is destructive and highly unpopular, illegal in
provincial parks, and very contentious everywhere. If you need to chip
a climb down to your level and steal opportunity away from others,
your ego, your grasping at pride, and clinging to delusions are way
out of control: you’re on a fast track to bad karma.
‘Glory is fleeting, but obscurity is forever.’
 Trundling. When working high on a crag, be very, very careful about
trundling loose rock. When far above the ground, work only in rain and
in the very early morning. Post signs below if necessary.
the first ascentionist’s mantra, from Napoleon Bonaparte.
 Placing bolts. See page 31.
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www.highcol.ca
32
Retro Work on the Crags
O
ld bolts, belays and rappel stations rot; good but overgrown
climbs sit unloved. There are many such situations at Squamish,
and widespread interest in replacing unsafe protection bolts and rusty
pins, replacing and improving belay and rappel stations has developed.
Re-cleaning such climbs increases the number of quality routes, and
encourages exploration in less-travelled areas. Whatever you may
choose to do, always keep in mind the historical character of the route
and try to retain the spirit of the first ascent.
Adding more bolts, eliminating gear placements, extending or
reducing runouts to popular or valued climbs is not for the fainthearted, as someone, somewhere, may disagree with your action,
especially if the climb’s character is well-known and liked.
There is a fine line of judgement between doing a thoughtful job of
removing and replacing rotten protection bolts and pins, versus actions
that may significantly change the character of the climb for the worse.
Some things to think about before engaging in retro-work:
 Some good climbs can become overgrown. A good job of retro-ing
them can create a route that lessens the pressure on other climbs.
 Respect the first ascentionist’s intention as well as the place of regard
the climb holds to the climbing community.
 First ascentionists can not impose unreasonable limitations on how
future generations retro their climbs.
 When we create first ascents or engage in retro-work, we are playing
on a public stage; we enjoy the plaudits, but we care not for criticism.
 Some climbs can suffer from bolts that were badly sited, modern gear
can fit where nothing would in the past, and new bolts need not be
sited where pins were removed. Give extra thought to these situations,
fewer points of protection, better arranged, are often possible.
 Good gear belays should not be bolted except on sport routes, or
where
no other means of descent is possible except rappeling.
Repairing chopped bolt holes.
Things can be improved nicely by chopping carefully to create the least
amount of damage to the rock, or as has been done, by continuing to
tighten it with a pipe on a 9/16” ring spanner and twisting until the
bolt has extracted itself so far it becomes loose or breaks naturally.
Drive the stud in, and fill the hole with a commercial product such
as Rocktite. Add some crystals of granite to the outer face of the mix
and the result can be near-invisible to the casual eye.
www.highcol.ca
Placing Bolts
33
T
he expansion bolt has long been both a curse and a blessing to
rockclimbers. It introduces a sense of artificiality into what is
a natural environment, but allows us to climb where it would not
otherwise be possible. The artificiality arises because the impact a bolt
may have on other climbers’ experience is always at the subjective
judgement of the holder of the drill. The bolt can dilute the experience
of thrill and personal challenge, but its presence has moved climbing
from a focus on hard-core adventure toward mainstream popularity.
Our climbing lifestyle of today in Squamish has the existence of the
bolt at its core.
Bolts as a means of protection and aid have been in use at
Squamish since at least 1959. The singular difference between then
and now arrived in the late 1980s, in the form of the Hilti power drill.
Parsimonious effort at the hard grinding work of hand-bolting a 1/4”
hole was swept away by zipping in a 3/8” hole in a few seconds. The
effect was revolutionary.
The conflicts that have since arisen have invariably been centred
on a clash of values between desire for the adventure-centred
experience, and desire for a physically-oriented one. Both have their
place, and both are essential to full enjoyment of all that climbing
offers. Squamish can have the best of both worlds, but only if all
climbers regard them each as important and seek the fine balance.
When developing a new route, please keep in mind that the bolt
changes things irrevocably, whereas natural gear does not. Use bolts
only where necessary, and not near naturally-available protection.
If you have doubts, ask more experienced climbers who have good
judgement as to what’s appropriate.
Before placing any bolts, please ask yourself:




Are bolts appropriate on this route?
If so, what is the most appropriate number of bolts?
What are the most suitable locations for bolts?
How well am I balancing my values with those of other climbers?
Please try to adhere to the following often-conflicting guidelines:







Place bolts in as straight a line as possible to minimise drag.
Place bolts where the draws stop the rope slipping over a sharp edge.
Place bolts where they can be reasonably clipped, no huge stretches.
Place bolts not immediately beside a hand- or foothold.
Place bolts on a solid piece of even rock: no hollow flakes thank you.
Use only 3/8” stainless steel bolts; 1/2” for heavy-use stations.
At bolted stations, always ensure there are two independent anchors.
www.highcol.ca
34
Weather and Climate
C
limate on the southwest coast of BC is traditionally characterised
by warm wet winters and dry summers, and weather that is
changeable, especially during the Spring and Fall. The climbing season
is virtually year-round on the south facing cliffs, and in winter, when
the rain stops, local climbers are out in force on the rock. For visitors,
the effective best season runs from early April to October.
However, the climate is changing and traditional expectations are
in need of adjustment. Hot dry spells are hotter (38°C in 2004) and
last longer, stormy weather tends to be more intense, and can blow
away more abruptly into sustained blue skies. When it rains, it can
be spectacular: 100mm of rain in two days is not unusual, although
that is less common outside of the fall-winter period.
Spring. Winter usually relents in late February to mid-March, and
climbers are out in force from this point on whenever the rock is dry.
Expect very changeable weather, from cold rain, wind, warm sun and
rainbows, to plus-30°C days. Long dry spells can dig in for weeks at
a time but can be followed by a dampish summer. A little patience is
required with the weather, but as a bonus, the mountains look inspiring
loaded with spring snow.
There can be quite a difference between valley crags, like the Bluffs
and Pet Wall, and the high walls of the Chief or the exposed Upper
Malamute, where it can be surprisingly cold in the wind. The Smoke
Bluffs are especially popular at this time of year, mostly because of
their sunny aspect and quick-drying climbs.
Summer. Between early July and late September, there are almost
always extended dry sunny periods, and temperatures can hover
well above 30°C for many days at a time. Rain tends to be forgotten.
However, it can dampen the rock at any time if high-pressure systems
break down. Thunderstorms will drench the crags, but they are usually
dry again the following day.
Fall. Much the same as summer, but with cooler temperatures and
rain developing by late October. Indian summers seem to be more
common than not. This is considered the start of prime time conditions
for bouldering as cool rock offers a higher ‘stick’ factor.
Winter. Yes, it rains and storms lot, but it keeps the land green
and re-supplies us with water. When it freezes hard once every few
winters, out come the ice tools. The climbing season in Squamish is
now more or less year ’round as we have passed that critical mass of
‘enough climbs to do’, with ‘just enough dry weather’. The discerning
climber knows where to go. It also helps to live here.
www.highcol.ca
How the Chief was Created
35
T
he region covered by this guidebook is a land with a fascinating
geological history. In the time when the dinosaurs roamed the
Earth 94 million years ago, the Chief was formed as a huge blob of
molten magma some 25km below the surface, a by-product of the
colossal forces of subduction of oceanic plates sliding underneath the
North American plate. The magma, less dense than the surrounding
rock, rose through the crust until it completely solidified about 10km
below the surface. During this period of about a million years, the
stresses of variable cooling caused continual fracturing into which
adjacent, hotter magma quickly flowed and was suddenly subject to
rapid cooling, forming the sinuous aplite dykes which are so endearing
to climbers.
Little by little, the earth above was eroded under the force of
wind, weather and earthquake, and the land carried into the sea by
the rivers. Some tens of millions of years ago, the Black Dyke was
formed by an injection of basaltic magma into a great crack in the
now-solid granite. By the time the last ice age began to cover most
of Canada, the Chief had reached the surface, and it was during this
period that the grinding glaciers created the familiar shape we know
today. The gullies became deeper, and the great walls were sheared
off, leaving in their wake the tumble of massive boulders at the base.
The four gullies that create such dramatic cleavage through the Chief
are zones where the rock became intensely fractured and chemically
different, most likely long before the Chief reached the surface. Being
much less resistant to weathering than the surrounding granite, water
and ice eroded them into the great chasms of today.
It was probably about 9,000 years ago that the retreating ice
revealed the Chief, a shining dome of white granite rising above a sea
of ice. The centuries rolled on, the glaciers receded to the high country,
and the shape of the land as we know it today was in place. A tundralike ecosystem would have existed, and the first vegetation to return
would have been hardy lichens. As they broke down and merged with
rock dust, the first soils emerged creating a fertile environment for
more advanced plant life. Insects returned from the warmer southern
latitudes, followed by small rodents. The first trees to return were pines
and spruces, which would have covered the landscape within a few
hundred years of the ice receding. The Chief would have presided
over a great fjord which stretched far up the valley. For much of the
last 9,000 years, the Chief was very likely a barren dome of rock with
few trees: an immaculate stone wonderland. It must have been quite
a sight.
www.highcol.ca
36 New Routes, Feedback and Some Reading
R
eporting a new route or significant changes to existing ones is a
tradition in climbing that goes back over 100 years. There are
a number of ways you can contribute to this. Please describe your
climb accurately, or your effort may not enlighten anyone too much.
in Squamish, in the new route book at Climb On.
in Vancouver, in the new route book at Mountain Equipment Co-op
or send information by fax to Kevin McLane/Elaho at
(604) 892-3609, or e-mail stone@elaho.ca
on internet bulletin boards, but it’s best to also use one of the three
methods above. Not everyone follows the forums, but the new
route books are very well-thumbed.
When describing your climb, try to follow the format in this guide:
the grade of each pitch, and lengths if possible.
the number of fixed protection points if any.
the credits of who led, who followed, who was involved.
the type of gear used, and/or number of bolts.
spell the name corrrectly or that’s how it may be recorded.
the date it was done.
whether you consider it to be a sport route.
please draw a topo of the climb, or draw it onto a photocopy.
Feedback and Corrections are Much Appreciated
If you can take a moment to send an email to the address above
with comments on anything in this guide you think is not correct, or
could be better expressed, or missing entirely, the author would be
very appreciative.
Some Suggested Reading
Gripped Magazine
Canada’s climbing magazine.
Alpinist Magazine
The world’s climbing magazine.
The Canadian Alpine Journal
Canada’s national annual.
Conquistadors of the Useless
Lionel Terray’s autobiography.
Master of Rock
Pat Ament’s biography of John Gill.
How to Rockclimb
by John Long.
The Games Climbers Play
A major anthology of great writing,
edited by Ken Wilson.
www.highcol.ca
Who Owns our Crags?
37
A
lways remember that someone, somewhere owns the land we
climb on and has responsibility for caring for it and the rights
of control. Listed below are the primary bodies that control access to
the crags. The vast majority of climbs are on public lands.
The task for everyone, climbers, landowners and public bodies, is
made easier by all users minimising trail erosion, observing posted
signage, leaving no garbage and respecting other users.
The District of Squamish. Controls about 35% of the climbs,
almost entirely in the Smoke Bluffs. Also the Art Gallery, in Crumpit
Woods, and most of the climbs in the Murrin Park area.
BC Parks. Controls about 50% of the climbs. An agency of the
provincial government, BC Parks is responsible for management of
park areas in the province, protecting the natural environment and
providing stewardship of recreational assets. Stawamus Chief, Shannon
Falls, and Murrin Provincial Parks all fall under their jurisdiction. In a
cooperative effort with climbers, they developed a rockclimbing vision
strategy in 1999, setting out some basic guidelines on how to conduct
climbing activities, in particular new routes and refitting.
The BC Forest Service. Controls about 5% of the climbs, and
has so far had little to do with climbers. An agency of the provincial
government, they are responsible for integrated management of
logging, conservation and recreation on public forest lands. The only
crag of significance that falls under their jurisdiction is Fluffy Kitten
wall in the Stawamus River valley. Others include the undeveloped
resources of granite on the west side of the Squamish River. The
Forest Service is mandated to provide many opportunities for outdoor
recreation. Where competing uses exist, the Forest Service may
develop a management plan to integrate activities and conservation.
Private Land. About 10% of the climbs. Some of the minor
crags listed may fall on private land with no habitation or commercial
activity, and where the public has not been restricted from visiting,
such as Crumpit Woods and Mamquam Blind Channel. These
situations may change, so please observe any posted signage. The
only crag of significance that is privately-controlled, by CN Rail, and
is presently closed, is the Lower Malamute. The Upper Malamute is
also private land, but no restriction on access has been posted.
www.highcol.ca
38
So Where do You Want to Climb?
So Where do You Want to Climb?
39
The Chief
South of Murrin
There is a wide range of climbs across the crags. The best are the
sea cliffs of Seal Cove, the Quartz Pillar, and Comic Rocks. The
Valley of Shaddai is a deep wooded valley east of Murrin Park. with
8 crags offering 30-plus sport and gear climbs, 5.9 to 5.11.
Murrin Park
This complex area of 24 single-pitch crags is one of the three major
centres of Squamish rockclimbs. Murrin lies on both sides of Highway
99, about 8 kilometres south of the Chief, and has something to offer
every climber, from novice to 5.13: quick access and many high quality
climbs. Sport climbs, cracks, and mixed face routes abound.
For 5.10s, check Up Among The Firs and the crags above the
parking lot. Petrifying Wall is the major crag of the area, with a
couple dozen stellar sport routes from 5.11 to 5.13, and some of the
best gear routes in the guide. Up Among the Firs offers many fine
5.10s, with great views too. Nightmare Rock hosts one of the best
collection of hard cracks at Squamish, 5.11 and up.
Shannon Falls-Papoose
A kilometre south of the Chief, and with a short approach, these large
cliffs offer climbs that have a wide range of characteristics: multi-pitch,
high-angle face, moderate cracks, a collection of outstanding one- and
two-pitch 5.11s on Gobsmacking Wall, and a few excellent multi-pitch
5.10s. In all, over 40 climbs.
The Malamute
This is the granite dome across Highway 99 from the Chief. There
are about 70 climbs listed on the hidden seaward side, divided into
separate Upper and Lower areas . Many are outstanding. The upper
cliffs, which are heavily laced with sport routes, are accessed directly
from the highway by the Chief. The Lower Malamute has several
fine multi-pitch routes accessed by rappel from the Upper Malamute.
Smoke Bluffs
With 400 single-pitch climbs on more than 40 crags, close to the town
centre, a sunny aspect and quick-drying rock, the Smoke Bluffs is by
far the most heavily-used area in the guide. Difficulty ranges from
low-fifth-class to hard 5.12; there are excellent teaching cliffs, good
cracks and face climbs, and you’ll never be alone.
www.highcol.ca
The Chief is the centrepiece of the guide, and its climbs encompass
half of all the climbing in this guide, with close to 100 multi-pitch
climbs up to 17 pitches, magnificent cracks, superb aid walls, and
nerve-tingling friction climbs. See the map on page 202.
There is no area below that has a mono-culture of one type of
climbing only: great climbs are found in each, and except where noted,
they range from moderate to hard in difficulty.
Chief — The Bulletheads
south and west
A collection of sunny, tiered cliffs above the campground that offer
many climbs of a wide variety. You can’t go wrong here.
Chief — Tantalus—Dihedrals
west
Notable for the mighty Freeway, Tantalus Wall, and Millenium Falcon.
Chief — The Grand Wall
west
The spiritual home of Squamish. Long freeclimbs, tremendous splitters
and 40 climbs of one to six pitches scattered along the base.
Chief — Above Bellygood
west
Now a centre of interest, there are quite a number of excellent climbs
scattered along the upper walls of the Chief’s south peak. Worth it.
Chief — The Apron
west / northwest
The great sweep of granite that cascades down to the highway, the
Apron is home to over 60 routes, including well over 20 that are 5
pitches or more in length.
The Chief — The South Gully
northwest
The shady side holds a couple good moderate multi-pitch climbs, the
sunny upper side is home to two fine long climbs.
Chief — The North Walls
north
Although there are only 40 or so freeclimbs here, with few exceptions
they are for heavy-hitters only—multi-pitch climbs of 5.11 and up.
Chief — The Squaw
north
The big crag of choice for a wide selection of 5.10 multi-pitch climbs.
Chief — The Backside
south
The 75 or so climbs on the sunny south side of the Chief offer quality
climbing up to 3 pitches long, far removed from the hustle of the
valley. Mostly 5.10—5.11.
www.highcol.ca
40
Climbs of Quality — Long Routes
A selection of outstanding multi-pitch climbs.
Banana Peel
Friction ................. .8 ......... 7p .... Chief - Apron
Diedre
Corner/friction ..... .8 ......... 7p .... Chief - Apron
A Cream of White Mice
Face ..................... .9 ......... 4p .... Chief - Bulletheads
Jungle Warfare
Crack ................... .9 ......... 5p .... Chief - Squaw
Snake
Corner/friction ..... .9 ......... 7p .... Chief - Apron
St Vitus Extra
Crack ................... .9 ......... 6p .... Chief - Apron
Bottom Line—Banana Peel—Granville St...... .9 ....... 13p .... Chief - Apron
Smoke Bluff Connection Crack/face ........... 10a ...... 4p .... Smoke Bluffs
Rock On
Corner/layback .... 10a ...... 5p .... South Gully
Papoose One
Face ..................... 10a ...... 6p .... Papoose
Sickle, Arete Finish
Corner/friction ..... 10a ...... 6p .... Chief - Apron
North North Arete
Cracks ................. 10a ...... 6p .... Chief - Pr. Land
Over The Rainbow
Friction ................. 10a ...... 7p .... Chief - Apron
The Angels Crest
Mixed ................... 10b .... 13p .... Chief - The Badge
Birds of Prey
Crack/face ........... 10b ...... 5p .... Chief - Squaw
Bullethead Connection
Face ..................... 10b ...... 6p .... Chief
Ultimate Everything
Crack/face ........... 10b .... 10p .... Chief - Echelon Wall
Upper Black Dyke
Face ..................... 10c ...... 4p .... Chief - Bellygood
Godforsaken Land
Mixed ................... 10c ...... 5p .... Chief - Squaw
One Scoop and...
Friction ................. 10c ...... 6p .... Chief - Apron
Wonderful Tiggers
Corner/face.......... 10c ...... 7p .... Habrich East
Stairway to Heaven
Sport/face ............ 10c .... 16p .... Chief - South
The Great Game
Cracks ................. 10d ...... 4p .... Chief - Squaw
Cruel Shoes
Face ..................... 10d ...... 6p .... Chief - Grand Wall
Edge of Anxiety
Corner/friction ..... 10d ...... 9p .... Chief - Apron
Apron Odyssey
Face/friction ......... 10d .... 10p .... Chief - Apron
Bloodlust Direct
Movin to Montana
Face ..................... 11a ...... 4p .... Chief - Grand Wall
Frayed Ends of Sanity
MIxed/face ........... 11a ...... 5p .... Chief - Squaw
Millenium Falcon (lite)
Crack/mixed ........ 11a .... 10p .... Chief - Dihedrals
Grand Wall lite
Corner/crack........ 11a .... 10p .... Chief - Grand Wall
Cruel Shoes–RChimneys Corner/crk/face .. 11a ... 16p .... Chief - Grand Wall
Dancing in the Light
Friction ................. 11b ...... 6p .... Chief - Apron
Unfinished Symphony
Corner/friction ..... 11b ...... 8p .... Chief - Apron
Wall of Attrition
Crack/mixed ........ 11b ...... 7p .... Chief - Grand Wall
Tantalus Wall
Face crack........... 11c A0 8p .... Chief - Tantalus Wall
Milk Run—Tantalus
Corner/crack........ 11b A0 9p .... Chief - Tantalus Wall
Magic Carpet Ride
Friction ................. 11c ...... 4p .... Shannon Falls
Freeway—Expressway
Mixed ................... 11c/d . 11p .... Chief - Dihedrals
The Daily Planet
Corner.................. 12a ...... 5p .... Chief - The Badge
Dream On
Northern Lights
Corner.................. 12a .... 12p .... Chief - Zodiac
University Wall
Corner/face.......... 12a ...... 8p .... Chief - Grand Wall
Midnight Run
Crack/face ........... 12a/b . 10p .... Chief - Tantalus
www.highcol.ca
Climbs of Quality — Cracks
41
Climbs listed are single-pitch routes. Long multi-pitch routes
F = Face crack
are in general, loaded with quality cracks.
C = Corner-crack
Pauls Crack
Slap and Tickle
Partners in Crime
Crime of the Century
Sentry Box
Penny Lane
Slot Machine
High Mountain Woody
Sunblessed (pitch 2)
The Zip
A Little Testis
Arrowroot
Seasoned in the Sun
Exasperator (pitch 2)
Just Blessed
Perspective
Claim Jumper
Flight of the Challenger
Apron Strings
Deadend Dihedral (pitch
Pixie Corner
Rutabaga
Laughing Crack
Exasperator (pitch 1)
Mushroom
The Left Side
Cat Crack
Octopus Garden
Orifice Fish
Cruising to Infinity
Astrologger
Quarryman
Mercy Street
Talking Crack
Klahanie Crack
Blazing Saddles
High Plains Drifter
A Pitch in Time
Elephantiasis
Vector (pitch 1)
Pipe Dream
Finger ....................10a ....... F ......Malamute Upper
Finger ....................10b ....... F ......Malamute Upper
Finger ....................11a ....... F ......Penny Lane
Finger ....................11b ....... F ......Penny Lane
Finger ....................12a ....... F ......Nightmare Rock
Finger-hand ............9 .......... F ......Penny Lane
Finger-hand ............9 .......... F ......Bulletheads
Finger-hand ............9 .......... F ......Malamute Upper
Finger-hand ...........10a ....... F ......Solarium
Finger-hand ...........10a ....... F ......The Zip
Finger-hand ...........10b ....... C......Up Among Firs
Finger-hand ...........10b ....... F ......Dihedrals
Finger-hand ...........10a ....... F ......Grand Wall Base
Finger-hand ...........10c ....... F ......Grand Wall Base
Finger-hand ...........10c ....... F ......Up Among Firs
Finger-hand ...........11a ....... C......Nightmare Rock
Finger-hand ...........11d ....... F ......Nightmare Rock
Finger-hand ...........12c ....... F/C ..Petrifying Wall
Finger-layback .......10b ....... C......Grand Wall Base
1) Finger-layback ...11a ....... C......Dihedrals
Finger-stem ............8 .......... C......Pixie Corner
Finger-hand-stem ..11a ....... C......Dihedrals
Finger-thinhand ......7 .......... F ......Smoke Bluff Wall
Finger-thinhand .....10a ....... F ......Grand Wall Base
Thinhand ................9 .......... F ......Papoose
Thinhand ...............12a ....... F ......Grand Wall
Thinhand-hand .......6 .......... F ......Neat and Cool
Thinhand-hand .......7 .......... F ......Octopus Garden
Thinhand-hand .......9 .......... F ......Spilt Beaver
Thinhand-hand ......10c ....... F ......Above & Beyond
Thanhand-stem .....11b ....... C......Zodiac Base
Hand-layback .........8 .......... C-F ..Penny Lane
Hand-Layback .......10b ....... C......South Gully
Hand .......................7 .......... F ......Ravens Castle
Hand .......................7 .......... F ......Shannon Falls
Hand ......................10b ....... F ......Sheriffs Badge
Hand ......................11c ....... F ......Sheriffs Badge
Hand-fist ................10b ....... F ......Bulletheads
Hand-fist ................10c ....... F ......Ronins Corner
Hand-fist-offwidth ...9 .......... F ......Apron
Fist ..........................8 .......... F ......Octopus Garden
www.highcol.ca
Climbs of Quality
42
Offwidths and Chimneys
43
Suggested Top-Roping Areas
A selection of the best wide crack and chimneys
Bop till You Drop
Fist ...........................10b ... 4” .... Cirque Uncrackables
Split Beaver
Fist ...........................10b ... 4” .... Smoke Bluffs
March of K...Utensils
Offwidth-Layback .....9 ...... 5” .... Cirque Uncrackables
Tantalus Wall (pitch 2)
Offwidth Face ..........10a ... 5” .... Tantalus Wall
Boogie till You Puke
Offwidth Face ..........11b ... 6-7” . Cirque Uncrackables
Fissure Flavelle (pitch 2) Offwidth Face ..........10c.... 5” .... Above and Beyond
Angels Crest (p. 8 var.)
Offwidth Face ..........10b ... 7” .... Sheriffs Badge
Hypertension
Offwidth Face ..........11a ... 5” .... Nightmare Rock
Pipeline (pitch 4-5)
Offwidth Corner .......10d ... 8-9” . Squaw
The Scimitar
Offwidth Corner .......11a ... 8-9” . Cirque Uncrackables
Wild Turkey
Chimney-Fist-Finger 11a .......... Bulletheads
Sunshine Chimney Centre Chimney .................8 ............... Bulletheads
Kneewrecker (pitch 5)
Chimney ..................10a ............ Grand Wall Base
Yosemite Pinnacle Left
Chimney ..................10b ............ Tantalus Wall
Tall Skinny People
Chimney ..................10c............. Zodiac
Brunser Overhang
Chimney ..................11a ............ Brunser
Places are in demand where top-ropes are easy to set up and the
climbs moderate. At the crags listed, it is possible to walk to the top
and arrange ropes with a minimum amount of difficulty. Keep in
mind that if you need to top-rope because you are unable to lead,
then setting the top-rope, while unroped at the top of the crag could
be the most hazardous thing you do all day.
Murrin - Sugarloaf
Murrin - Bog Wall
Upper Malamute - The Terraces
Upper Malamute - Jacobs Wall
Upper Malamute - Highest Tier
Smoke Bluffs - Jug Slab
Smoke Bluffs - Krack Rock
Smoke Bluffs - Fern Gully
Smoke Bluffs - Fatty Bolger
Smoke Bluffs - Neat and CoolSmoke
Suggested First-Lead Gear Routes
These single-pitch climbs all offer excellent natural protection.
Sport Climbs
A selection of the best sport routes. Draws only.
The Flingus Cling
Black Water
The Right Stuff
Pleasant Pheasant
Presto
Morpheous
The Red King
Totally Clips
Zoe
Stairway to Heaven
Bulletheads Sport Linkup
Xenolith Dance
Ride The Bullet
Women in C.. Shoes
Sisulu
Flight of the Fledgelings
Joe’s Dyke
The Archer’s Arrows
The Trimark Years
Mr Ciechanowski
Rippling Waters
Gold Medal Ribbon
Climbs of Quality
12b
12a
11a
10d
13a
11b/c
10d
10b
.9
10c
10b
10b
10d
10a
10b
.4
.7
.7
11b
10a
10c
11b
Murrin - Petrifying Wall
Murrin - Nightmare Rock
Murrin - Up Among the Firs
Murrin - Shaman Wall
Chief - South
16 pitches
Chief - Bulletheads
7 pitches
Chief - Bulletheads
2 pitches
Chief - Bulletheads
Chief - Bulletheads
3 pitches
Chief - Raven’s Castle
Chief - The Penthouse
Chief - The Penthouse
Chief - Heliopolis
Chief - Skyline Slab
www.highcol.ca
Fern Gully
Cat Crack
Magical Child
Corner Crack
Laughing Crack
Octopus Garden
Sparkletoast
Easter Island
Pixie Corner
Up From The Bog
Slot Machine (2p)
Cold Comfort
Movin On Over
4
6
6
7
7
7
7
8
8
8
9
9
9
Smoke Bluffs - Fern Gully
Smoke Bluffs - Neat and Cool
Smoke Bluffs - Ronins Corner
Smoke Bluffs - Neat and Cool
Smoke Bluffs - Smoke Bluff Wall
Smoke Bluffs - Octopus Garden
Smoke Bluffs - One Toque Wall
Smoke Bluffs - Crag X
Smoke Bluffs - Pixie Corner
Murrin - Bog Wall
Chief - Bulletheads
Smoke Bluffs - Boulder Gully
Smoke Bluffs - Burgers and Fries
First-Pitch Specials
These routes all offer substantially easier climbing on their first pitch
or so, which can be overlooked as a source of quality climbing.
Local Boys Do Good
Deadend Dihedral
Java Jive
The Opal
Frayed Ends of Sanity
10b
11a
10d
12a
11a
pitch 1
pitch 1
pitch 1
pitch 1-2
pitch 1-5
Shannon Falls
Chief - Dihedrals
Chief - Grand Wall
Chief - South Gully
Chief - Squaw
www.highcol.ca
44
45
ABOVE BELLYGOOD
B
ellygood Ledge is the demarcation line at about two-thirds height
across the entire Grand Wall. It separates the long climbs below
and the upper, less travelled areas. The terrain above the south end
of Bellygood now has many pitches of good climbing, and is crossed
by integral routes such as Millennium Falcon and Stairway to Heaven.
The approach to the climbs is via the Backside trail, although any can
be combined with an ascent of the Grand Wall or Millennium Falcon.
Follow the Backside trail as for the South Summit of the Chief (page
381), then exit left to take the Bellygood trail (page 381).
Getting there... Bellygood trail. Take the Backside trail as for the
heavily-travelled South Chief summit. After about 20 mins, and 50m
above the trail junction for the North Chief, a 6m fixed line can be
spotted to the left leading up a short slab. Pull up it, and follow the
trail above left then up to a fine open slab. From its top, turn right
onto a trail now heading northward through a generally flattish forest.
After a few minutes it arrives at the south end of Bellygood. 35 mins.
Climbs starting off Bellygood Ledge
152 The Roman Chimneys **
10d (11d)
159 The Upper Black Dyke **
see page 281.
10c
4p
Greg Shannan (solo aid); 1974 FFA: Robin Barley, Gordie Smaill; 1974
Variation finish: Allen Agopsowicz, Mathew Maddaloni; July 1996
p2: Sean Easton, Kevin McLane; July 1999
Above Bellygood Ledge, the Upper Black Dyke offers fine exposed situations
and excellent climbing, albeit with some loose rock here and there. It is
now all bolt-protected and the first 2 pitches are especially outstanding. Start
off Bellygood on nice incut holds, then make a handrail traverse below the
bulges to steeper climbing and a belay on the right: 6 bolts (10a). Move up
past 2 bolts, then go out right onto the open wall–a long and stunning pitch
that rejoins the dyke after 45m: 6 bolts (10c). A tricky start leads to easier,
wandering climbing in the wide dyke: 5 bolts (10b). A nice pitch leads to
cruxy moves near the top : 5 bolts (10b). A variation finish goes out left down
an undercling just before the final steep section on the final pitch, then up
a 5.8 crack to finish.
Be aware that the presence of climbers on this route raises stonefall
concerns at the base of the Grand.
160 On Tilt 
11c
2p
Dean Hart, John Rosholt, Scott Young; 1985
About 50m right of The Black Dyke is a major left leaning corner system.
Climbed in two pitches (11c, .9). From its top traverse off right, with
opportunity to continue up Millennium Falcon (page 251).
CHIEF INTRO/MAP 202
CHIEF PHOTOS
207–217
www.highcol.ca
GRAND WALL UPPER BLACK DYKE AREA
www.highcol.ca
46
80
60
THE CHIEF -- ABOVE BELLYGOOD
Millennium Falcon (Upper)
Stairway to Heaven
11b
10c
see page 251
see page 238
163 Shaved Bum **
Climbs starting off the Upper Bellygood Trail
For access to the climbs off the Upper Bellygood trail, take a steep line up
a 12m left-leaning dirt ramp about 25m south of Bellygood. Move right at its
top, and follow a line that weaves directly upward for about 20m, with a touch
of scrambling in a couple places.
161 Damn The Torpedos
* 10c
12a
Colin Moorhead, Kai Hirvonen; June 1998
47
3p
FFA: Colin Moorhead, James Laurie; May 2001
An incredible crackline splitting the prominent ass-like feature at the right side
of the cliff. A short way along the Upper Bellygood trail, climb the obvious
right-facing corner that leads to the base of a steep dihedral/groove (.8). A
sustained thin crack leads to a chimney and a rest, steep jamming and an easier
corner: stellar, heavy on thin gear (12a). Finish up the easier corner above (10b).
164 The Universal Key * 10b
#8
SPORT
30m
Nick Watts, Will Dorling; May 21st, 2003
3p
A good climb; face, flakes and even a jam. Sustained with good rests. Enjoy
the sting in the tail. Part of Stairway to Heaven.
Off the Upper Bellygood trail climb an appealing right-facing corner,
steepening to an undercling and a pull over an overlap into a thin crack. Belay
at a big ledge above (10c). Layback the fine orange corner above: easier than
it looks (.9). Finish off right over fingery flakes, then back left to the rim (.9).
The following 2 climbs are accessed by climbing The Universal Key, or pitch
13 of Millennium Falcon.
Alison Cerney, Kevin McLane; September 2004
162 Colon
.9
N
3p
Dick Culbert, Alice Purdey; November 1965 FFA: John Coope, Jim Campbell; September 1981
Climb the initial scruffy corner of Shaved Bum (.8). Head out right along an
obvious traverse below the high exposed wall (.8). Finish up the wide laybacky
corner above, or go out right as for Damn the Torpedos (.9)
165 Gold Medal Ribbon * 11b
#9
SPORT
30m
Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling; April 1998
Sustained dyke walking and pinching. An excellent climb, but can be a difficult
finale to Millennium Falcon in summer heat.
166 Up From Nowhere
10c
30m
Kai Hirvonen, Craig Rankin; July 1998
Undercling and lieback. Good.
BELLYGOOD INTRO 241
www.highcol.ca
CHIEF INTRO/MAP 202
CHIEF PHOTOS
207–217
www.highcol.ca
48
BELLYGOOD INTRO 241
www.highcol.ca
CHIEF INTRO/MAP 202
CHIEF PHOTOS
207–217
49
www.highcol.ca
50
51
South Peak — The Penthouse
This is a west-facing cliff in a fine airy position near the summit of the
South Chief with a collection of excellent face climbs. Sport climbs
with a view. The climbs start off the long ledge system that runs from
the top of the Roman Chimneys southward to the Backside trail. When
climbing here, please consider that anything you drop or dislodge will
fall without a bounce onto climbers at the base of the Grand Wall.
Getting there... Take the Backside trail as for the South Chief
summit (page 381). After about 25 mins the trail passes beneath a very
prominent line of low roofs overhead, then emerges into more open
terrain. After another 50m or so, look underfoot for a short 10m section
of basalt bedrock. Exit left here, onto a small trail for 50m to reach a
viewpoint down to the valley. Continue north along a ledge below an
undercut roof for 35m to the first climb. About 35 minutes.
167 Mr Ciechanowski *
10a
#6
SPORT
25m
John Howe, Jim Hegan; August 1999
The easiest route on the cliff, 25m along the trail. Start 20m right of The
Trimark Years. Pull the fun roof on jugs, then climb without difficulty to
chains above.
168 The Trimark Years * 11b (10c+1pa) #10
SPORT
40m
Peder Ourom, Anders Ourom; March 1998
An obvious line of bolts trending up right at the point where the low roof that
undercuts the wall has almost merged into the base. Step up to the roof, to
reach bolts. The crux is a long reach at the third bolt.
169 Bad Religion **
10d
#10
SPORT+
40m
Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling; March 1998
Pull over the roof left 4m of Trimark, and follow the line of bolts. Gear to 2”.
170 Chickenhead Soup * 11a
40m
Colin Moorhead, Kai Hirvonen; Oct 1997
Pull over the roof as for Bad Religion, then go left out along an obvious
handrail of holds for 10m, then straight up. A tad runout. 5 bolts, gear to 2½”.
The next three climbs, noted by a pair of bolts at their common start, begin
off a small terrace 10m up and left of the start of Chickenhead...
171 High Society *
11c
#9
SPORT+
30m
Colin Moorhead, Rich Wheater; March 1998
Climb the crack to the tree, and climb the righthand line of bolts above. Take
a couple cams to 2 for the crack”.
172 Now With Wings ** 11b
#8
SPORT+
30m
Colin Moorhead; Nov 1997
Start as High Society, take the lefthand line of bolts and a couple cams to 2”.
173 Forum
11c
30m
James Laurie, Colin Moorhead; June 2001
Start as High Society to a small bush, then go up left along a fault/crack until it
is possible to climb directly up past 4 bolts. Small to medium wires and cams.
GRAND WALL PENTHOUSE
BELLYGOOD INTRO 241
www.highcol.ca
CHIEF INTRO/MAP 202
CHIEF PHOTOS
207–217
GRAND WALL PENTHOUSE
www.highcol.ca
52
South Peak — Raven’s Castle
The next 3 climbs all start from a single bolt station on the low-angle slab.
This is the beautiful west-facing apron at the summit of the South
Chief. When looking up from downtown Squamish, Raven’s Castle
is the Chief’s ‘nose’. The rock is superb throughout. Most pitches are
moderate in difficulty, offering a good experience for novices.
Getting there... Take the Backside Trail to the Penthouse (pages
296/381). After 30m, head right up an easy gully that leads to open slabs
above the Penthouse, and continue northward into flat open bedrock
and the sweeping slabs of Ravens Castle come into view on the right:
45 minutes approach. Climbs described from the left.
Descent... Walk down well to the south side, or rap on two ropes.
The next 5 climbs all start from a bolt station at the far left side. Make a
few moves up the short wall along the base of the slab to reach it.
174 Talking Crack
53
.7
35m
180 Slesse’s 500 *.
.9
#5 (p2)
Kevin McLane, Tony McLane, Barry McLane; April 1999
SPORT
2p
Trend up leftward and belay in a scoop #3 (.7) Continue across Joe’s Dyke,
then finish out left #5 (.9).
181 The Archer’s Arrows
.8
#3 (p1)
Barry McLane, Tony McLane (alts); April 1999
The Bow: Kevin McLane, Tony McLane, Barry McLane; April 1999
SPORT
2p
Climb directly up to belay in a scoop #3 (.7). Move right to a bolt, then directly
up a wide scoop to finish; a bit harder than the first pitch # 3 (.8). The Bow,
a direct finish, continues straight up, finishing just right of Joes Dyke #2 (.9).
182 The Flight Of The Fledglings * .4 #5
(p2)
SPORT
2p
Tony McLane, Barry McLane (alts); April 1999
Climb up right over polished rock to a bolt station in a scoop #2 (.4). Pad up
the wide arete above on good holds #5 (.4). This is one of the nicest really
easy climbs at Squamish.
Joe Turley; 1962
A short S-shaped hand-crack in a beautiful position at the far left of the crag.
Climb a deep flake (4th) at the left edge of the slab to reach the hand-fist crack.
175 Joe’s Dyke **
.7
#6
SPORT
(p2)
2p
Joe Turley, Jim Sinclair (solo); c.1978
This is the long dyke that cuts left to right across the crag: one of the best
easy sport face climbs in the guide. Belay as for Talking Crack, then head
up right on a dyke to the base of the steepening wall (.6). Move right and
up onto the head wall. Continue in a fine position along the dyke to the rim
(.7). This route makes a nice finish to the Squamish Buttress.
176 Whatever
10c/d
#3
SPORT
(p2)
2p
John Howe, 2002
Climb the first pitch of Joe’s Dyke (.6). Move left to a prominent flaky scoop.
Climb the left wall steeply to the rim (10a).
177 Ladies First *
John Howe, 2002
SPORT
10a
#4 (p2)
(possibly WELFARE DAZE; Peder Ourom, Jim Brennan; 1982)
2p
Climb the first pitch of Joe’s Dyke (.6). Move left to a prominent flaky scoop.
Climb the scoop and up left past a small flake. Continue to the rim (10a).
This is the recommended finish to Stairway to Heaven (page 238)
178 Sisulu **
10b
#5
SPORT
(p2)
2p
Tony McLane, Kevin McLane; June 2004
A fine sustained route. Climb the first pitch of Joe’s Dyke (.6). Move right
onto the dyke then go straight up to reach a distinct, left-trending ramp. After
a few moves, head straight for the rim (10b).
179 Grace *
10a
#3 (p2)
unknown, but prior to 1992. Refers to Grace Wong, who died climbing on the Chief in 1991.
2p
Climb the first pitch of Joe’s Dyke (.6). Move right onto the dyke, follow it until
beneath an appealing line marked by large pockets. Climb directly to the rim.
GRAND WALL RAVEN’S CASTLE
BELLYGOOD INTRO 241
www.highcol.ca
CHIEF INTRO/MAP 202
CHIEF PHOTOS
207–217
GRAND WALL RAVEN’S CASTLE
www.highcol.ca

The Climbers Guide to Squamish

Transcription

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