COMPLETE TUNING GUIDE

Transcription

How to use this PDF version
Guide:
COMPLETE TUNING
GUIDE
1. Under “Window” in the gray menu
bar above this page, select “Show
Bookmarks.”
2. A panel will open at left with a list
of links.
3. Click on a listing with your mouse
button and the page at right will
change to that page.
4. Print out the pages you need for
the track.
We suggest you start at the beginning and thoroughly familiarize
yourself with the Guide.
Good luck with your racing!
Over 40 tuning options
to set up your car to WIN!
#3847
© 2002 Associated Electrics, Inc.
All Rights Reserved.
http://www.teamassociated.com/
version 1.0
UNAUTHORIZED REPRODUCTION IS FORBIDDEN
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COMPLETE TUNING GUIDE: TC3
Contents
Numbers in blue are standard settings in the manual.
GENERAL SUSPENSION
2 Droop Front: #6. Rear: #4.
3 Ride Height 5/32” (4mm) -1/4”
(6.3mm)
4 Anti-roll bar none
FRONT SUSPENSION
5 Caster 0°
6 Kickup 2°
7 Camber, front -2°
8 Toe-in/Toe-out, front 0°-1° toe-out
9 Ackerman #3858 short ball ends
10 Camber link adj, front
Hub: outside. Tower: lower/inner
11 Bump Steer no spacers
REAR SUSPENSION
12 Rear Anti-squat 2°
13 Toe-in, rear 3°
14 Wheelbase adjustment centered
7 Camber, rear -2°
15 Camber link adj, rear inside
lower hole
SHOCKS
16 Shock body composite macro
17 Shock Shaft #8844
19 Shock Pistons Front & Rear: #2
20 Shock Oil Front & Rear: 40wt.
21 Shock Springs Front: Gold. Rear:
Silver
22 Shock Mounting, front outside hole
23 Shock Mounting, rear outside hole
ELECTRICAL
24 Battery Type 6-cell
25 Battery Placement rear
26 Motor
27 Brushes, springs, timing, cutting
the comm
28 Radio, Steering Servo
29 Speed Control (ESC)
How this Guide is organized
We have organized this Guide according to the different sections of the
car. Every tuning option covered will have all or some of the following information.
• What the feature is.
• What tuning options are possible.
• How the changes will affect the vehicle.
• How to make the change.
• How to mark this feature on your setup sheet.
• Illustrations of this feature with captions.
Weve included a blank setup sheet for the car. EVERY tuning option on the
setup sheet is explained in this Guide. The numbers on the setup sheet are
elsewhere in the Guide in numerical order so you can look up that feature in
the Guide quickly.
We have also underlined certain key terms in the text--like more traction,
more steering, bumpy tracks--to help you find what you are looking for, ‘highlighting’ information you may want to reach fast.
In short, we have tried to cut through the fluff and produce a small,
practical Guide that you can actually use, and that will grow more valuable
over time and experience.
OTHER
30 Pinion Gear
31 Spur Gear 72 tooth
32 Tires Pro-Line V-Rage S-2 compound
32 Tire Sauce none
33 Rollout
34 Tire Inserts incl. with tires
35 Wheels Pro-Line
36 Chassis composite
37 Front One Way Diff none
38 Body
39 Wing
40 Weight none
41 Track Width
42 Diff Adjustment standard
43 Track Conditions
44 Race Comments
45 Car Comments
46 Setting the Tweak
47 How to Go Faster
48 Getting the Best Setup
49 Sample TC3 Setups
50 Blank TC3 Setup Sheet
©2001 Associated Electrics, Inc.
3585 Cadillac Ave.
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
http://www.rc10.com/
Book concept, design, and text by Steve
Husting
2
Droop
You can limit the amount of shock travel by increasing or decreasing suspension arm droop. One of its effects is to reduce chassis roll. The Factory Team
droop gauge (fig. 2c) coupled with the droop screws helps make precise
measurements. If you use the droop screws method, remove any shock travel
limiters you may have on your shock shafts.
Increasing droop (lower number on the droop gauge) will give more
shock travel.
Decreasing droop (higher number on the droop gauge) will limit shock
Fig. 2a Place the droop gauge under each
arm to measure the droop.
travel.
Recommended starting droop settings
Front droop: 6
Rear droop: 4
When do I add droop?
• When your car leans too much in the turns, decrease droop--this will
limit the shock travel.
• Also, try decreasing droop in the front arms on high traction smooth
tracks when your car’s front end rises on acceleration. The decrease can give
you more steering this way. In the rear, less droop is used only for high
traction, smooth tracks.
• Increase droop for bumpy tracks.
• Droop affects shock travel. If the track has high traction, such as carpet,
then you may want to take droop out of your car by going higher on the droop
gauge.
• Too little droop will cause a loss of traction.
• There will be a proper balance between steering and rear traction for the
various track’s conditions. Use the above guidelines to find your ideal setup.
How do I set the droop?
1. Place the droop gauge (fig. 2c) on a flat surface on its edge.
2. Rest the bottom of the chassis on the gauge (fig. 2a), making sure the
screws are not resting on the gauge. Slide the gauge so the front arm rests on
step 6.
3. With your 3/32” Allen wrench, adjust the droop set screw so the outer part
of the arm just touches the step (fig. 2b).
4. Adjust both front arms this way. Slide the gauge to the rear arms and
repeat, but the rear arms will rest on step 4.
On setup sheet
You write in your droop setting.
Fig. 2b Turn the droop screw to set the
droop.
Fig. 2c The droop gauge steps.
TIP
1/8 turn equals 1/2 step in change. 1/4 turn
equals 1 step change.
TIP
By using a ball end 3/32” driver it is easier to
adjust the droop set screws.
Product info
#3987, Factory Team Droop Gauge, composite
#3865, Droop Set Screws, 4
3
Ride Height
Ride height describes the distance of the vehicle from the bottom of the chassis to
the surface the car is resting on (fig. 3a). This adjustment must be made with the kit
fully equipped (including all electrical equipment), and the body off. We suggest
starting with about 1/4” (6.0mm) clearance between the chassis and ground.
Preload:
Threaded:
Standar
d shock spacing/gap:
Standard
Front
Rear
1/8”
1/8” + 1/16”
7/64” (2.78mm)
9/64” (3.58mm)
Standard ride height gauge (fig. 3b) spacing:
Front: 6.0mm
Rear: 6.0mm
Fig. 3a Ride height is the distance from the
chassis bottom to the ground.
Fig. 3b Use the ride height gauge to measure
ride height.
When should I change the ride height?
This adjustment helps to speed up or slow down how fast the car changes direction
when cornering. Do not use a ride height lower than 5/32” (4mm). You should
always check the ride height after making all your other adjustments, just before you
are ready to race.
• For higher traction use a lower ride height (lower number on the ride height
gauge).
• Try using a slightly lower ride height than 1/4” (6.0mm) for high traction
conditions such as carpet racing. If the track is a high traction, such as carpet, then
you may want to take droop out of your car by going higher on the droop gauge.
• For bumpier tracks, add more ride height (higher number on the ride height
gauge).
Fig. 3c
Fig. 3d
Change the preload clips or turn the collar of
the threaded shocks to adjust ride height.
How do I change the ride height?
Ride height is adjusted by first adjusting droop settings. Next adjust depending on
whether you use pre-load spacers or threaded shocks.
• If using preload spacers (fig. 3d):
Set the preload spacers (#8846) on the shocks to the standard spacing noted above
then adjust the suspension arm droop screws using the Ride Height Gauge (fig. 3b)
as noted following.
• If using threaded shocks (fig. 3c):
Measure the gap from the hex of the shock to the collar. Keep the gap equal on both
shocks, left and right. Depending on what end of the car you’re working on (front or
back), modify the collars to desired ride height.
Fig. 3e Insert the gauge as shown.
• Changing ride height:
1. When adjusting the ride height you need to have the car ready to run with no
Product info
#1450, Factory Team Blue Aluminum Ride Height
body.
Gauge
2. Set the car on a flat surface.
#8846, Shock Preload Clips, 5 sizes
3. Slide the right height gauge underneath the chassis (fig. 3e), until the gauge just
#3962, Factory Team Anodized TC3 Threaded
Shock Body & Collar with cap O-rings. Complete set
touches the chassis. To get a measurement on the chassis and not the bumper, you
of four
might need to slide the gauge in the corner of the car as shown. Check both corners
#3963, Factory Team Anodized TC3 Threaded
Shock Body & Collar with cap O-rings. Pr.
of the front.
4. Slide the gauge underneath the back of the car. Check both corners of the rear.
On setup sheet
You note your ride height dimension in inches or mm.
4
Anti-roll Bar (sway bar)
Anti-roll bars (fig. 4a, 4b) are used to stabilize a car from excessive chassis
roll, (which occurs when your car leans through the turns by centrifugal force).
A car not using an anti-roll bar on a high traction surface will tend to have a
lot of chassis roll (uneven traction among the tires), which results in being
less responsive. A car using anti-roll bars on a high traction surface will tend
to have less chassis roll, making the car more responsive to cornering, at the
same time making the car more stable. Anti-roll bars can help plant your front
or rear tires, giving them more traction. Consider using an anti-roll bar if you
are having trouble over- or understeering.
When do I use an anti-roll bar?
Anti-roll bars are generally used on smooth, high traction conditions. If the
track is very bumpy, then anti-roll bars are not your best bet. The more bumpy
a track gets, the more the bars become a disadvantage. Anti-roll bars on
bumpy tracks don’t allow your suspension to work independently, making
your car difficult to drive.
• If you are driving on a high traction surface and your car wants to
oversteer, then use the optional anti-roll bar kit on the front only (fig. 4a). This
will decrease the front chassis roll and decrease steering throughout the corner
(this has the feeling of increasing rear traction).
• If your car is understeering, then try the optional anti-roll bar kit on the
rear only (fig. 4b). The rear anti-roll bar will decrease rear chassis roll and
decrease rear traction (this has the feeling of increasing steering).
Fig. 4a Use an anti-roll bar on front or back
to stabilize your car from excessive chassis
roll.
Fig. 4b This sway bar is on the rear.
How do I get the anti-roll bars?
Anti-roll bars are optional items. Part #3960 is one anti-roll bar set, which
can be used on either front or rear. Get two if you think you’ll need anti-roll
bars on both front and rear. Full installation instructions are included.
On setup sheet
You mark whether or not you used an anti-roll bar.
Product info
#3960, TC3 Front or Rear Anti-roll Bar Kit
5
Caster, front
Caster describes the angle of the block carrier’s kingpin as it leans toward the
rear of the vehicle (fig. 5a). Positive caster means the block carrier’s kingpin
leans rearward at the top. Negative caster (leaning the kingpin forward) is
never used. Associated makes block carriers for the TC3 with 0°, 2°, and 4° of
caster.
When figuring caster, add the amount of caster for the block carrier to the
amount of caster in the kickup. Example: 2° of kickup and 0° block carrier
equals 2° caster, not 0° caster. For more about Kickup, look up the Kickup
page.
How do I know which setting to use?
Caster will influence your steering entering and exiting corners.
• Add more caster (2° or 4°) to increase steering entering corners and
reduce steering exiting corners. It will also be more stable through bumpy
track conditions.
• Use less caster (0° or 2°) if you need less steering entering corners, but
more steering in the middle and exiting corners.
How do I change the caster?
1. Remove the front wheel locknut.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Pop off the camber turnbuckle.
4. Loosen the set screw in the block carrier.
5. Push out the hinge pin with your Allen wrench.
6. Remove the ball end and screw from the block carrier to free the steering
block/CVD combo.
7. Replace the block carrier with another one.
Fig. 5a Positive caster leans rearward at the
top.
Fig. 5b Your front block carriers will determine the amount of caster. Kickup will also
influence caster.
On setup sheet
You mark which caster setting you are using, 0°, 2°, or 4°.
Fig. 5c Change the front block carriers to
change the caster.
Product info
#3868, TC3 Front Block Carriers, 0° caster, pr.
6
Kickup
Kickup refers to the angle at which the front suspension is mounted, measured
from the horizontal, when looked at from the side of the car (fig. 6a). The arm
mounts you choose affects the kickup. They are coded F, F+2, and F-0. (“F”
means Front. “+2” means 2° kickup. “-0” means 0° kickup.)
The front arm mounts, attached through the bumper, determine the kickup.
0° kickup means your front arms are level with the chassis. 2° kickup
means the front of the front arms are angled higher than the chassis.
Changing the kickup will also affect the caster. Add the values of kickup
and block carrier caster to get the actual caster. For instance, 2° kickup plus
2° block carriers equals 4° caster.
Fig. 6a The kickup angle.
Recommended Arm Mount/Block Carrier Combinations:
For this setup:
2° kickup, 2° caster
Use these parts:
Arm Mounts Block Carrier
F & F+2
0°
F & F+2
2°
F & F+2
4°
F & F-0
0°
F & F-0
2°
F & F-0
4°
• 2° kickup will work best in most conditions, especially bumpy conditions.
• 0° kickup will have a more aggressive steering feeling but will not
absorb bumps as well as 2°.
Fig. 6b Remove these six screws to slide
out the bumper and change kickup. See tip
below to reduce to two screws.
How do I change the kickup?
By swapping the suspension arm mounts:
1. Remove the two screws holding the front plastic bumper to the chassis, the
four screws holding the gearbox, and pull out the bumper (fig. 6b).
2. Change to another front arm mount. Be sure to align hinge pins to the holes
in new arm mount when installing.
Fig. 6c This number determines your kickup
in degrees.
Tip
Cut the bumper where shown in fig. 6d and you’ll need to remove only two
screws instead of six to remove the bumper and change the arm mounts.
On setup sheet
You mark which kickup setting you
are using, 0° or 2°.
Fig. 6d Remove the portion
shown to change kickup quicker.
Product info
#3863, TC3 Front Front & Rear Arm Mounts (F, F+2,
R, R+3+2)
#3864, TC3 Optional Front & Rear Arm Mounts (F-0,
R+2+0, R+2+2, R+3-0)
7
Camber, front
Camber describes the angle of the wheels as their tops lean to or away from
the chassis (fig. 7a). Negative camber means that the tire leans inward at the
top, pivoting at the front outer hinge pin. Positive camber means that the tire
leans outward at the top. (Positive camber is not recommended.) Camber is
measured in degrees.
We don’t suggest positive camber under any circumstances. We suggest
using 2° of negative camber, but you may want to adjust for the following:
• Use 2° to 3° negative camber on high traction tracks.
• Use less negative camber (0° to 2°) for low traction conditions.
How do I change the camber?
You change the front camber by turning the camber link (fig. 7b). This pivots
the axle at the hinge pin. Then re-check toe-in/out, for it will change.
How do I measure the camber?
We recommend using a camber gauge, 3x5” card or just a square piece of
cardboard (fig. 7c). When adjusting camber you need to have the car ready
to run with no body.
1. Set the car on a flat surface.
2. Take your 3x5 card and push it against the tire as shown.
3. Use your supplied molded turnbuckle wrench to adjust the camber link to
1°, 2° or 3° by either eyeballing the gap between the card and the top of the
tire), or by placing a ruler across the top of the tires and measuring from the
card to the tire.
(If you really want to know exact figures,
1° produces a .045” (1.1mm) gap.
On setup sheet
You mark the number of degrees of camber you used.
Fig. 7a Camber is seen from the back or
front of the car.
Fig. 7b Turn the camber link to change
camber.
TIP
Optional titanium turnbuckles resist
bending and provide a slight weight
savings.
Product info
#1356, Factory Team TC3 Titanium Turnbuckle Set
#3867, TC3 Steel Turnbuckle Set
Fig. 7c A quick and easy way to measure
camber.
8
Toe-in and Toe-out, front
Front toe-in/toe-out describes the angle of the wheels when viewed from
above (fig. 8a), the front of the wheel turning inward (toe-in) or outward (toeout), rather than pointing straight ahead. It is measured in degrees.
How do I know when to use front toe-in or toe-out?
• On slippery tracks use a small amount of toe-in. Add toe-in to the front
tires if you need help stabilizing your vehicle during acceleration. Doing this
will also decrease the amount of steering when entering a corner, and increase it coming out of a turn during acceleration.
• Add toe-out when you need more steering entering a corner. But doing
this will cause instability when accelerating through bumps or down a slippery straightaway.
• We suggest using 0° to 1° of toe-out for the TC3. You’ll need a measurFig. 8a Toe-in
ing gauge to accurately adjust toe-in.
How do I change the toe-in or toe-out?
By turning the steering turnbuckle you adjust this setting (fig. 8b).
On setup sheet
You write in which toe setting you are using.
Fig. 8b Turn this turnbuckle to adjust toe-in.
Product info
9
Ackerman
Ackerman gives more traction to the tires by steering them correctly through
the turns. Specifically, it causes the inside front wheel to turn tighter than the
outside front wheel (fig. 9a). Standard Ackerman is preferred by most Team
drivers.
How do I know when to adjust Ackerman?
• The standard setting (fig. 9c) gives a comfortable driving feeling.
• Use optional Ackerman (fig. 9d) if you want more aggressive steering
feeling. The car may feel harder to drive.
How do I change Ackerman?
By adding two .100” (2.5mm) spacers and the optional longer #3858 ball
ends to the steering rack (fig. 9b-9d). This decreases Ackerman.
On setup sheet
You indicate which Ackerman setting you used. You have two choices,
standard or optional.
#3858
short ball end
#3858
short ball end
#3855
Fig. 9c Standard Ackerman. For a neutral
steering feeling.
Fig. 9a Ackerman causes the inside front
wheel to turn tighter than the outside front
wheel.
#3858
long ball end
#3858
long ball end
#3855
Fig. 9b Your steering rack setting determines
Ackerman.
Fig. 9d Optional Ackerman. For a more
aggressive steering feeling.
Product info
#3855, TC3 Steering Rack Set (rack, rack arm,
spring, shim, nut and screw)
#3858, Long and Short Special Ball Ends, black, 4
short, 8 long
10
Camber Link Adjustment, front
The camber link is from the lower shock tower to the steering block’s ball end
(fig. 10a). Changing the mounting position of the camber links can affect
traction and stability. You have four link possibilities on the tower.
How do I know which link is best?
Use the following two guidelines.
• Using a longer or higher mounting position (fig. 10a) will increase
traction but decrease stability.
• Using a shorter or lower mounting position (fig. 10b) will decrease
traction but increase stability.
Fig. 10a A longer or higher mounting
position will increase traction.
How do I change the link position?
Pop off the ball cup, remove the dust cover, plain nut, and ball end from the
tower and reposition them in another hole.
On setup sheet
You mark here which shock tower hole you mounted your shock. You have
four choices for the tower.
Fig. 10b A shorter or lower position will
decrease traction.
Product info
#3881, TC3 Front Shock Tower
#3882, TC3 Front Shock Tower, Graphite
#6272, Foam Ball End Dust Cover, 28
#6274, Ball Cup, 14
#7260, 4-40 Small Pattern Plain Nut, 12
11 Bump Steer
Bump Steer takes its name from the fact that when the car goes over bumps, it
changes the steering. Bump steer is the undesirable effect of extra toe-in in
one front tire or the other as your car goes over bumps, making your steering
unpredictable. Your car then bounces back and forth instead of going straight
through the bumps.
When should I change the bump steer?
Normal recommendations for bump steer spacing.
• 0° caster blocks plus 2° kickup: use the Ackerman spacer .100”.
• Change the bump steer when you want to keep a straight line through
bumps, or have better control of your steering through bumps.
• You should change the bump steer any time you change the caster in
your car.
Fig. 11a Bump steer is changed by adding
a spacer here.
How do I change the bump steer?
1. Pop off the steering turnbuckle.
2. Remove the ball end and add a spacer (fig. 11a) to the ball end.
3. Then replace the ball end with the spacer in place and pop on the turnbuckle.
On setup sheet
You mark the thickness of washer used, such as .032” or .064”.
Product info
#4187, Shock Travel Limiters (and bump steer
spacers), 12 ea. 1/32” shims
#6466, Shock Travel Limiters (and bump steer
spacers), 4 ea. of 1/8” (.125), 1/16” (.062), 1/32”
12 Rear Anti-squat
Anti-squat refers to the angle at which the rear suspension is mounted, measured from the horizontal, when looked at from the side of the car (fig. 12a).
The TC3 comes with standard 2° of anti-squat.
The rear arm mounts (fig. 12b), attached by screws through the bumper
and chassis, determine the anti-squat.
0° anti-squat means your rear arms are level with the chassis. 2° antisquat means the front of the rear arms are angled higher than the chassis.
For anti-squat, use the properly coded rear arm mounts, fig. 12c. (“R”
means Rear. The middle number refers to degrees of toe-in. The last number
refers to degrees of anti-squat.)
Fig. 12a 2° of anti-squat is kit standard.
code
R+3+2
R+2+2
R+3+0
R+2+0
effect
3° toe-in & 2° anti-squat
• 2° anti-squat makes the car loose on corner entry but provides more
traction when accelerating out of the corner.
• 0° anti-squat will reduce turn-in oversteer and will improve acceleration
in bumpy conditions. It will slightly reduce on-power traction.
Fig. 12b Change this rear arm mount to
change anti-squat.
How do I change the anti-squat?
By changing the rear suspension arm mounts (fig. 12b).
1. Remove the two screws holding the rear plastic bumper to the chassis.
2. Remove the two rear diff housing screws, lift up the gear housing and pull
out the bumper.
3. Change to another rear arm mount. Be sure to align the hinge pins to the
holes in the new arm mount when installing.
On setup sheet
You mark which anti-squat setting you are using, 0° or 2°.
Fig. 12c This last number determines your
anti-squat in degrees.
Product info
R, R+3+2)
R+2+0, R+2+2, R+3-0)
13 Toe-in, rear
Rear toe-in/toe-out describes the angle of the wheels when viewed from above
(fig. 13a), the front of the wheel turning inward (toe-in) or outward (toe-out),
rather than pointing straight ahead. It is measured in degrees.
The rear arm mounts determine the toe-in. Use the properly coded rear arm
mounts, fig. 13b. (“R” means Rear. The middle number refers to degrees of
toe-in. The last number refers to degrees of anti-squat.)
code
R+3+2
R+3+0
R+2+2
R+2+0
effect
Fig. 13a Rear toe-in
How do I know when to use rear toe-in or toe-out?
• On slippery tracks you can use a 3° toe-in block. By having more toe-in
you will increase rear traction and decrease steering.
• On higher bite tracks you can run the 2° toe-in blocks. The 2° blocks will
Fig. 13b This first number determines your
decrease rear traction while improving straightaway speed.
toe-in in degrees.
How do I change the toe-in or toe-out?
By changing rear arm mounts (fig. 13c). You have two choices, 2° and 3°.
1. Remove the two screws holding the rear plastic bumper to the chassis.
2. Remove the two rear diff housing screws, lift up the gear housing and pull
out the bumper and mount.
3. Slide the bumper back in with the new mount and align the pins to the new
mount.
4. Screw the two screws back in.
On setup sheet
You write in which toe setting you are using.
Fig. 13c Change this rear arm mount to
change rear toe-in.
Product info
R, R+3+2)
R+2+0, R+2+2, R+3-0)
14
Wheelbase Adjustment
You can make adjustments to your wheelbase. That is, you can shift the rear
wheels forward or back. This will place the brunt of the motor and battery
weight towards the front or rear, affecting steering or rear traction. Standard
setting is hub centered (fig. 14a).
How do I know when to adjust the wheelbase?
• To increase rear traction, move both spacers to the rear. This will move
your hub carriers toward the front of the vehicle, shortening the wheelbase.
• To increase steering, move both spacers to the front (fig. 14b). This will
shift the hub carriers toward the rear of the chassis, lengthening the wheelbase.
How do I change the wheelbase?
1. Remove the rear wheel locknut and wheel.
2. Unscrew the set screw in the hub carrier with your Allen wrench and partially push out the outer hinge pin with the tip of your wrench.
3. Rearrange the 1/32” plastic spacers on the outer hinge pin relative to the
hub carrier.
4. Re-install the hinge pin and tighten set screw.
5. Make sure the CVD is inserted in the outdrive when you re-assemble.
Fig. 14a Spacer placement determines your
wheelbase.
On setup sheet
You indicate where you placed the spacers in relation to your hub carrier. You
have three choices, short, medium and long.
Fig. 14b Both spacers to front lengthen your
wheelbase. Placed at rear, they shorten your
wheelbase.
Product info
#4187, 1/32” nylon spacers
15
Camber Link Adjustment, rear
The camber link is from the shock tower to the steering block ball end (fig.
15a). Changing the mounting position of the camber links can affect traction
and stability. The camber link will affect how much the camber changes
during suspension travel. The longer the link, the less camber change and the
more traction. The shorter the link the more camber change and the less
traction. You have four link possibilities on the tower with two possibilities on
the rear hub carrier.
How do I know which link is best?
Use the following two guidelines.
• Using a longer or higher mounting position (fig. 15a) will increase
traction but decrease stability.
• Using a shorter or lower mounting position (fig. 15b) will decrease
traction but increase stability.
Fig. 15a A longer or higher mounting
position will increase traction.
How do I change the link position?
Pop off the ball cup, remove the dust cover, plain nut, and ball end from the
tower and reposition them in another hole.
On setup sheet
You mark here which tower hole and hub carrier hole you linked. You have
two choices for hub carrier mounting and four choices for the tower.
Fig. 15b A shorter or lower position will
decrease traction.
Product info
#3895, TC3 Rear Shock Tower
#3896, TC3 Rear Shock Tower, Graphite
#6272, Foam Ball End Dust Cover, 28
#6473, Shock Bushings
#6274, Ball Cup, 14
#7413, 4-40 x 3/4” Screw, 6
16
Shock Body
The shock body (fig. 16a) houses the oil and piston components. They come
in two materials, composite and aluminum.
How do I know which shock body to use?
• Use the composite shock body if you have budget restraints. They are
also lighter than aluminum.
• Use the aluminum shock body for better wear. Of the aluminum bodies, Fig. 16a Left to right:
Composite, blue aluminum and threaded
you have a choice of threaded (fig. 16b) or unthreaded.
aluminum shock body.
• Use the threaded shock bodies if you need finer ride height adjustments.
On setup sheet
You indicate the body used. You have two choices, composite or aluminum.
Fig. 16b Choose the threaded shock body
style if you want finer ride height adjustments.
Product info
#3963, Factory Team Anodized Threaded Shock
Body & Collar with cap O-rings, pr.
#8450, VCS Macro Shock Body, aluminum, ea.
#8450B, VCS Macro Shock Body, blue aluminum,
ea.
#8458, VCS Macro Shock Body, molded composite,
ea.
1598, Factory Team Shock Cap, blue anodized
aluminum, 4
#6428, Shock Cap, molded, 1
17
Shock Shaft
Your shock shaft (fig. 17a) communicates the shock’s dampening effects to
your suspension arm. Associated has shafts in two types of composition,
standard shafts and unobtainium.
How do I know which shock shaft to use?
Use the unobtainium shaft if you want smoother shock action. Highly recommended for competition racing.
On setup sheet
You indicate if you used Associated’s standard shafts or unobtainium.
Fig. 17a Left to right:
Standard shock shaft, Unobtainium shock
shaft. The Unobtainium shaft has a burnt,
blue color.
TIP
Experienced racers use Green Slime to lube
the internal shock parts instead of using
oil. This gives superior shock action.
Product info
#1105, Green Slime
#3964, TC3 Unobtainium Shock Shafts, pr.
#3872, TC3 Shock Shaft, ea.
18
This page intentionally left blank.
19
Shock Pistons
Pistons (fig. 19a) determine shock dampening. The piston has two holes
through which the oil flows as the piston travels up and down in the shock.
The size of the holes help control how quickly the spring rebounds. The holes
in the piston can be likened to doors in a store letting people in for a sale. If
the doors were opened only part way, then they let people through more
slowly than if the door were wide open. So the smaller holes in the piston
means less oil can get through and thus means more sluggish shocks.
Generally, you change both the oil weight and pistons for better effect.
Shock dampening manages the resistance of the shock as the piston
moves up and down through the oil in the shock body. Changing the piston
hole size changes the dampening characteristic of the shock. The smaller
holes provides the heaviest dampening. The larger holes provides the least
dampening, allowing the oil through more quickly.
Associated #6465 includes 4 each of #1, #2, and #3 pistons (fig. 19a).
The #1 piston has the largest holes and the #3 piston has the smallest holes.
Changing pistons is like changing the oil viscosity. For example, swapping #1 for #2 or #2 for #3 (going to a smaller hole) changes the oil rate by
5wt. each. So 30wt. would become 35 when you change to the next smallest
hole size.
larger hole
lightest
dampening
medium
smaller hole
heaviest
Fig. 19a Your shock pistons further fine-tune
your shock dampening characteristics. The
smaller holes in the piston means less oil
can get through and thus means more
sluggish shocks.
How do I know which piston to use?
• If your car chatters too much, you may try a larger piston size. As a
general rule of thumb, with certain exceptions, the smoother the track surface,
the smaller the hole piston.
• Standard setting has the #2 piston in front and #2 piston in the rear.
How do I change pistons?
You must remove your shocks from the car and take them apart. Remove the
shock eyelet and shock cap and pull out the shaft. Remove the end E-clip
from the shaft to change pistons.
Fig. 19b It will help to run a black marker
over the pistons so you can see the numbers
better. Also, insert the pistons so the number
is facing the opening of the shock body so
you can read it quickly when removing the
shock cap.
On setup sheet
You write here which shock piston you’ve added to your shocks, #1, #2, or
#3.
Product info
#6465, Shock Pistons, 4 each of #1, #2, and #3
20 Shock Oil
Oil weight determines the dampening of your car. It helps control how quickly
the spring rebounds. In other words, shock springs hold your car off the
ground; oil determines how quickly the car regains that height after the
bumps. Heavier weight oil makes rebound more sluggish than lighter weight
oil.
Associated sells high-quality silicone oil in 2 oz. bottles from 10 wt to 80
wt. This silicone oil handles better over a wider range of weather conditions.
The larger the number, such as “80 wt,” the heavier the weight, that is, the oil
viscosity is thicker.
Standard setting is 40 wt oil (fig. 20a) in front and 30wt in rear. For
carpet, start with 70 wt.
How do I know which oil weight to use?
• If your car chatters too much then switch to a lighter oil, such as 20 wt
and a #2 piston.
• Use lighter oil, such as 25 wt, for bumpy tracks. It increases traction, but Fig. 20a The correct oil weight can help you
regain your ride height in a way that’s best
increases chassis roll.
for your track conditions.
On setup sheet
You mark here which weight of oil you used. If you used the oil shown, you
would mark “40” in the space.
Product info
#5420,
#5421,
#5422,
#5423,
#5425,
#5427,
#5428,
#5429,
#5435,
#5436,
#5437,
Silicone
Silicone
Silicone
Silicone
Silicone
Silicone
Silicone
Silicone
Silicone
Silicone
Silicone
Shock
Shock
Shock
Shock
Shock
Shock
Shock
Shock
Shock
Shock
Shock
Oil,
Oil,
Oil,
Oil,
Oil,
Oil,
Oil,
Oil,
Oil,
Oil,
Oil,
10
20
30
40
80
15
25
35
50
60
70
weight,
weight,
weight,
weight,
weight,
weight,
weight,
weight,
weight,
weight,
weight,
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
oz.
oz.
oz.
oz.
oz.
oz.
oz.
oz.
oz.
oz.
oz.
21 Shock Springs
The purpose of the springs (fig. 21a) is to keep the vehicle level during acceleration, deceleration, and cornering. Several spring tensions (fig. 21b) are
available to achieve this.
Standard spring setting:
Front: Gold
Rear: Silver
Fig. 21a Your shock springs help keep your
car level during acceleration.
Carpet setting:
Front: White
Rear: Purple
12.0 lb./in. softer
14.5
17.0.
19.5.
22.0
25.0
30.0.
35.0
40.0
stiffer
Green
Silver
Blue
Gold
How do I know which spring to use?
• Stiffer springs help your suspension respond more quickly and decreases Red
chassis roll, but because of their stiffness they will not absorb bumps as well. Copper
Purple
Use stiffer springs in high traction conditions such as carpet racing.
Yellow
• Softer springs are best for tracks with many small bumps and for slipWhite
pery conditions.
On setup sheet
Write in which shock springs you used by color. Each shock spring is colorcoded (fig. 21b) according to the stiffness of the spring.
Fig. 21b Your shock springs are colorcoded according to its stiffness.
Product info
#3941,
#3942,
#3943,
#3944,
#3945,
#3946,
#3952,
#3953,
#3954,
TC3
TC3
TC3
TC3
TC3
TC3
TC3
TC3
TC3
Green Spring, 12.0 lbs, pr.
Silver Spring, 14.5 lbs., pr.
Blue Spring, 17.0 lbs, pr.
Gold Spring, 19.5 lbs, pr.
Red Spring, 22.0 lbs, pr.
Copper Spring, 25.0 lbs, pr.
Purple Spring, 30.0 lbs, pr.
Yellow Spring, 35.0 lbs, pr.
White Spring, 40.0 lbs, pr.
22
Shock Mounting, front
You have three mounting positions for your shocks on the tower (figs. 22a-c).
Shock tower mounting will affect steering. The lower the angle of the shock
(toward the inside hole on the tower, fig. 22b), the more it directs pressure
toward the arms, and thus the more aggressively it will affect your steering.
The more vertical the shock (fig. 22a), the more the dampening.
Make sure you re-check the ride height after shock mounting changes.
When do I change the shock mounting position?
• Outside hole (fig. 22a) is standard. For carpet, try the middle hole (fig.
22c).
• Outside hole on tower reduces steering. It also increases the dampening.
• The inside (fig. 22b) or middle tower position (fig. 22c) adds steering.
Dampening is also decreased. Great for carpet or track with similar traction.
Fig. 22a Outside hole of tower reduces
steering and increases dampening.
How do I change the shock mounting position?
Remove the nylon locknut, shock, shock bushing, plain nut, and screw from
the tower and replace them in another hole.
On setup sheet
You mark here which shock tower hole you mounted your shock. You have
three choices for the tower.
Fig. 22b Inside and middle holes of tower
add steering, decrease dampening, and
decrease spring rate.
Fig. 22c For carpet, try the middle hole.
Product info
#3881, TC3 Front Shock Tower
#3882, TC3 Front Shock Tower, Graphite
#7413, 4-40 x 3/4” Screw, 6
23
Shock Mounting, rear
There are several mounting possibilities for your rear shocks. Standard setting
is outside hole (fig. 23a).
Make sure you re-check the ride height after shock mounting changes.
How do I know which mounting position to use?
• Outside hole (fig. 23a) decreases traction and increases dampening.
• Inside hole and middle (fig. 23b) increases traction and decreases
damping.
How do I change the shock mounting position?
Remove the nylon locknut, shock, shock bushing, plain nut, and screw from
the tower and replace them in another hole.
On setup sheet
Mark here which hole you mounted your shock on the rear tower.
Fig. 23a The outside hole decreases
traction.
Fig. 23b The inside and middle holes
increase traction.
Product info
#3895, TC3 Rear Shock Tower
#3896, TC3 Rear Shock Tower, Graphite
#7413, 4-40 x 3/4” Screw, 6
24
Battery Type
Your batteries (fig. 24a) power your electrical components. They determine
your run time and maximum power transmitted to the motor.
Which cells should I use?
• Run time: If you want longer run times, go for a higher capacity cell. A
larger number means higher capacity (3000 is larger than 2000). NiMH cells
tend to give more run time than NiCd cells of the same nunber.
• Durability: NiCd cells tend to be more durable than NiMH.
• Price: NiMH cells are more expensive than NiCd. Panasonic “Stock
Fig. 24a You have many battery possibiliNiMH” are more expensive than NiMH cells, but are more durable too.
ties to choose from.
• More chargers exist for NiCd cells.
• Racers on a budget may want to use lower milliamp cells to decrease
costs.
Battery tips for maximum performance
• Recommended charge rate for Sanyo cells is 4.0 amps.
• After initial charge, let the batteries cool, then just before use re-peak
once.
• Do not trickle charge or pulse charge.
• For NiCd cells only: When done racing, discharge your pack to 3.0
volts to remove memory.
• Use a high-temperature/high wattage soldering iron for briefer contact
with the cells to prevent heating up the whole cell and damaging it.
• Lightly sand the area to be soldered with #600 sandpaper to ensure a
better solder joint.
• Use Reedy battery bars #651 to assemble your battery packs.
• For better flow of power, experienced racers solder on Reedy Power
Connectors #652 instead of using Tamiya-style plugs.
TIPS
• For stock motor, NiCd 2400’s work best.
• Modified 10 turn or higher winds, for 4
min. racing, use 2400 NiCd cells.
• Modified 10 turn or lower winds for 4
minute racing, use 3000 NiMH cells.
• Modified motors for 5 minute racing, use
3000 NiMH cells.
On setup sheet
You write here the brand and type of batteries you are using. If you are using
Reedy WCZappers, then you would write “2400 WCZappers,” “2400”, or
simply write the part number.
Product info
See your Reedy product catalog for info or
visit the Reedy web site at:
http://www.rc10.com/reedy
25 Battery Placement
You can slide your batteries forward (figs. 25a-b) or leave them in the back.
This shifts the car weight forward or back, affecting the steering and rear
traction.
When do I change my battery placement?
There are many positions, but here are three we suggest trying.
• Place batteries in the front (fig. 25b) if you want less responsive steering (because a greater load is placed on the front wheels). This will sacrifice
some rear traction.
• Place batteries in the rear (fig. 25a) if you want more rear traction. This
will also result in more steering.
• Separate your batteries, placing the foam spacers in the middle of the
pack. You’ll get slightly less steering than full rear and slightly less rear
traction than full front. Easy to drive.
Fig. 25a Spacer to the front pushes the
batteries toward the rear. The increased
weight in back gives the car more rear
traction.
How do I shift my batteries?
1. Remove the body clips from the battery hold-down strap.
2. Remove the battery hold-down strap.
3. Reposition the batteries and #3848 foam spacer as needed.
On setup sheet
You mark which battery pack position you used.
Fig. 25b Spacer to the rear pushes the
batteries toward the front. The increased
weight in front gives the car less steering.
Product info
#3848, Foam Spacer, 7/8” width, ea.
26 Motor
The ESC feeds your radio transmitter commands to the motor (figs. 26a-b), then the motor
turns the transmission gears, which then turns the axles that drive your wheels. Motors
come in many stock and modified varieties, giving you many tuning options.
Fig. 26a Stock class
requires a stock motor, such
as Reedy’s MVP motor.
When do I know which motor to use?
• Use the correct motor for your class, either stock or modified.
• Match your motor to the correct application. Off road and on road vehicles require
different motors. Generally, on road racing favors more rpm while off road favors higher
torque. Reedy’s Fury and Ti motors were designed for on road. Our Reedy catalog takes
the guesswork out of which motor you should buy for your car. It’s free for the asking.
• Choose the number of turns. “Turns” refers to the number of times the wire was
wound around each armature arm. The fewer the turns, the higher the rpm (revolutions
per minute), or top end speed (the highest speed attainable by that motor). So, if you
wish the fastest motor, choose a motor with the fewest number of turns. (Speed controls
can have motor limits, so refer to your sped control’s manual for limitations.) Keep in
mind that the fewer the turns, the greater the battery draw, which means lesser run time.
• Then choose the type of wind. “Winds” of “Double,” “Triple” or “Quad” refers to the
number of strands of wire (fig. 26c) wound around the armature, double being two
strands, triple being three, quad being four, and quint being five. The type of wind is for
fine tuning your motor’s power band. In general, the winds with fewer wires give the
impression of kick-starting your wheels, while the winds with more wires will bring you up
to top end speed more slowly.
If you have a very slick track, then winds like single and double may cause your
wheels to spin; other winds-triple, quad, quint-may give your car better traction. In
addition, the less turns of wire, the less run time you will have, because the fewer wires
will draw more power from your batteries.
The performance gains by changing the type of wind is subjective and may be
noticed only by experienced racers with cars that respond well.
Fig. 26b Modified class
allows modified motors,
such as Reedy’s Ti modified
motor.
Tips for extra motor performance
• Spray the motor commutator area with motor cleaner after every 2 to 3 runs while it
is running. Over a 15 second span, spray the com mutator several times for 2 to 3
seconds. Keep doing so until the runoff is clean.
• After the motor spray, apply a small amount of lightweight oil to each bushing for
lubricating. Applying too much oil will pick up dirt and contaminate the commutator and
brushes.
• Never overgear your motor (large pinion and/or small spur). Excess heat from
overgearing can harm your motor.
• Motors with fewer turns require frequent maintenance. This includes truing the
comm and replacing the brushes.
Fig. 26c Arrow points to two wires, indicating that this is a “Double” wind.
On setup sheet
You write here which brand and type of motor you used. If you used a Reedy Ti12 turn
double, it can be written as “Ti 12x2.”
Product info
See the Reedy product catalog or web site for more
info.
27
Motor Tips
Several other motor tuning ideas can be noted on your setup sheet. They are:
Type of Motor Brushes
The motor brush (fig. 27a) contacting the commutator (fig. 27d) completes the electric circuit of your motor, therefore, the better the connection, the
better the motor performance. Make sure you match your brush to the proper
application. There are motor brushes designed specifically for on road or off
Fig. 27a Match the brush to the proper
road applications-brushes that fit large commutators and other brushes for
armature, whether laydown or standup.
small commutators. Serrated brushes help seat the brushes to the armature
more quickly, getting you up to performance more quickly. Silver content
brushes transfer power more efficiently, but wear your armature more quickly.
Remove the brushes from the holders every 3 to 5 runs and inspect
them for wear and burning. Replace the brushes if you notice wear or burning. Failure to do this will harm your armature.
Fig. 27b Motor springs
On setup sheet
You note the brushes you used.
Type of Motor Springs
Type of motor springs (fig. 27b). You can change the tension of the
spring by changing the angle of its two ends (by squeezing them closer
together or pushing them farther apart). The tension of the spring affects the
pressure of the brush against the armature. In general, the more tension, the
more torque; the less tension, the more rpm.
On setup sheet
You note which springs you used.
Fig. 27c Note the tick mark before you
change your timing
Motor Timing
Motor timing is accomplished by loosening (but not removing) the two
top screws of the endbell (not the brush hood screws) and turning the endbell
slightly (fig. 27c). Then the screws are tightened again. Turning the endbell to
the right on Reedy motors gives you more rpm and less torque, to the left
results in less rpm and more torque. The timing has already been set optimally by the factory, so carefully mark a tick mark on the can aligned to a tick Fig. 27d The commutator
mark on the endbell (arrow points to one such tick mark) so you can later
return it to its original position. Reedy strongly recommends you keep the
Product info
See the Reedy product catalog or web site for more
factory setting.
info.
Cutting the Commutator
Cutting the commutator (fig. 27d) is accomplished with a comm lathe.
The commutator is the area in contact with the brushes. Fine scratches form
on the comm when the commutator rotates past the brushes, producing less
than optimal connection. A comm lathe will trim this area so it is smooth
again for optimum performance.
28
Radio
Your hand-held radio transmitter (fig. 28a) sends signals to your servos to
control your car steering and speed. Popular radio systems include Airtronics,
Futaba, Hitec, and KO Propo.
What should I consider in a radio?
• AM radios are noted for their lower cost and ready availability.
• FM radios have great signal reliability, extra features, and adjustability.
• PCM radios have exceptional radio signal, micro adjustable features,
and the ability to fine tune on the fly. Also have multiple car memory in the
same radio, and are adjustable for right and left handed users.
On setup sheet
You write in which brand of radio you used for this race.
Fig. 28a AM radio transmitter.
28
Steering Servo
Under your radio direction, the servo horn pivots left or right, pushing/pulling
the steering tie rods connecting between the servo and the wheels to help you
steer your car. The servo (fig. 29a) is usually included with your purchase of
a radio transmitter. Popular servos include Airtronics, Cirrus, Futaba, Hitec,
Hobbico, JR Radio, and KO Propo.
What should I consider in a servo?
• Generally, for on road racing, you may want a servo with faster transit
speed, because they will feel more responsive. We recommend a servo of no
lower than 70 to 80 oz. of torque for the TC3. The servo’s torque is measured
in oz./in. (The more ounces, the stronger the servo.)
Fig. 29a Steering servo.
On setup sheet
You write in which brand of steering servo you used in your vehicle.
Product info
Contact Airtronics, Futaba, Hitec, and KO Propo for
radios, or see your local hobby dealer for radios and
servos.
29
Speed Control (ESC)
As its name implies, the “speed control” (or “ESC,” fig. 29a) controls the
RPMs of your motor, and thus the speed of your vehicle according to the
acceleration you give it at your hand-held transmitter. It regulates the flow of
power from your batteries to your motor in pulses. (The motor is connected to
the ESC, not to the batteries.) The better ESC’s will let more amps through to
the motor—meaning you’ll go faster.
A better, more advanced breed of ESCs are the LRP digital speed controls
(fig. 29a). You can use a reverse ESC in the TC3. A low-cost mechanical
substitute for the ESC is the resistor speed control (not recommended).
Which ESC should I get?
You must match your ESC with the turn of motor you will use. Some ESC’s
Fig. 29a LRP ESC installed in the TC3.
have no turn limit, meaning that they will work with any R/C car motor. Poorly
matched ESC’s will waste battery power as heat, shortening the life span of
your ESC.
• Choose an ESC with reverse if you want to equip your car with reverse
capability. Very convenient! However, competition rules do not permit using
reverse in races.
• Choose an ESC without reverse (or is capable of changing reverse
mode on or off) if you are going to race.
• Choose a competition ESC such as the IPC V7.1 (for modified and stock
racing) or IPC SR (for stock racing only) for serious competition. Competition
ESC’s do not include reverse.
• Choose ESC’s with amp numbers that are high and on-resistance
numbers that are low. (By analogy, amp numbers are like the water amount
in the tank; on-resistance is the faucet opening that lets the water through.)
The more the faucet’s open (the higher the amp number) the more the water
flows.
On setup sheet
You name which ESC you used in your vehicle.
Product info
See the LRP product catalog or web site for more
info.
http://www.rc10.com/lrp
30 Pinion Gear
The pinion gear (fig. 30a) is attached directly to the motor shaft and drives the
spur gear, which interfaces with the transmission. Changing the pinion gear to
more or fewer teeth will make big changes to your TC3’s run time and top
speed.
How do I know when to change my pinion gear?
You need to properly match the pinion teeth number with the spur gear teeth
number and your motor. For best results, use the numbers in the chart following.
• The larger the number of teeth, the greater the speed, but it results in less
run time and too many teeth (overgearing) could harm your electrics.
Fig. 30a Pinion gears can make big
• The smaller the number of teeth, the more run time, but you will attain
changes to run time and top speed.
less top-end speed. (“Top-end speed” refers to the fastest speed you could
attain.)
• Consider changing your gearing according to track length. For larger
tracks, top end would be more important, so try a pinion tooth larger than the
chart following. For smaller, twisting tracks, try a pinion tooth smaller than the
chart.
• Following is the current recommended numbers for the TC3. You should
not increase your pinion size by more than one tooth than indicated or you
may harm your motor.
TIP
Motor
24 deg. ROAR stock
16 turn modified motor
Pinon
26
26
25
24
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
Spur
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
Transmission
Ratio
2.5:1
2.5:1
2.5:1
2.5:1
2.5:1
2.5:1
2.5:1
2.5:1
2.5:1
2.5:1
2.5:1
How do I change my pinion gear?
You loosen the set screw on the pinion gear, slide off the gear, and insert a
new one.
On setup sheet
You write in the number of teeth of the pinion gear that you mounted on your
motor output shaft. Associated sells 48 pitch stock pinion gears from 14
through 26 tooth, and precision machined 48 pitch pinion gears from 15
through 26 tooth.
In some circumstances, calculating rollout
may give you better results. See the Rollout
entry elsewhere in this Guide.
Product info
#8252,
#8253,
#8254,
#8255,
#8256,
#8257,
#8258,
#8259,
#8260,
#8261,
#8262,
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
Tooth,
Tooth,
Tooth,
Tooth,
Tooth,
Tooth,
Tooth,
Tooth,
Tooth,
Tooth,
Tooth,
48
48
48
48
48
48
48
48
48
48
48
Pitch
Pitch
Pitch
Pitch
Pitch
Pitch
Pitch
Pitch
Pitch
Pitch
Pitch
Stealth
Stealth
Stealth
Stealth
Stealth
Stealth
Stealth
Stealth
Stealth
Stealth
Stealth
Pinion
Pinion
Pinion
Pinion
Pinion
Pinion
Pinion
Pinion
Pinion
Pinion
Pinion
31
Spur Gear
The spur gear (fig. 31a) is attached to the rear input shaft of the rear transmission. The pinion gear of the motor turns the spur gear, which turns the
gears of the rear transmission. Changing the spur gear to more or fewer teeth
will make big changes to your car’s run time and top speed.
The largest spur gear you can fit in the TC3 is 78 tooth. A 72T, 48 pitch
gear is supplied in the TC3. (In 72T, “T” is the number of “teeth” around the
spur gear. Pitch is the number of teeth that fit in one inch. 48 pitch means 48
teeth per inch.)
To match the spur gear teeth number with the pinion gear teeth number,
see the chart for the pinion gear.
When do I change my spur gear?
You need to properly match the pinion teeth number with the spur gear teeth
number and your motor. For best results, use the numbers in the pinion gear
chart.
• It is quicker to change your pinion gear than your spur gear. Change
your spur gear if you want a finer adjustment using aftermarket gears.
Fig. 31a Spur gear in car.
How do I shift my batteries?
1. Remove the rear transmission case.
2. Remove the rear input shaft.
3. Remove the two screws.
4. Slide off the gear and insert a new one.
On setup sheet
You write in the number of teeth of the spur gear you used.
Product info
#3921,
#3922,
#3923,
#8281,
69
72
75
78
Tooth
Tooth
Tooth
Tooth
Spur
Spur
Spur
Spur
Gear,
Gear,
Gear,
Gear,
48
48
48
48
Pitch
Pitch
Pitch
Pitch
Kimbrough Racing Products has more spur gear
choices.
http://www.kimbrough-products.com/
32
Tires
Tire choice is one of the most crucial choices a racer has to make. The proper
tire choice will either hook up all your car’s setups or ruin it. The TC3 will
accept all popular touring car tires, including the hex foam tires (fig. 32a).
How do I know which tire to use?
Normally, racers use the same tires all around. But circumstances may
dictate otherwise.
• Try softer tires all around for more traction.
• For more steering or front traction, try softer tires in front than those in
rear.
• Choose the tire that the most successful racers are using at that track.
This saves you money-it keeps you from buying tires that won’t work on the
track.
• Some races require a “spec” tire-the same tire is used by every car. In
these cases, tire choice has been made for you!
Fig. 32a When it comes to winning, your
choice of tire is second in importance to
practicing.
On setup sheet
You write in which brand and type of tire you used.
Using Tire Conditioner
Tire conditioner, or traction sauce, is applied to the tires to enhance the
Fig. 32b Glue your tires to the rims to
prevent the tires from slipping.
performance of the tires. It softens the rubber and creates more grip.
It is best to clean the tire surface before you apply the conditioner. Apply
motor spray or alcohol to a rag and wipe the rubber. Or use one of the name
brand tire cleaners that are available at your hobby store or track. Use a brush
to remove any residue or debris that may be on the tires.
Then apply a complete coat of tire conditioner to each of the tires at least
a half-hour before you run the car. Wipe off any excess that might still be on
the tires before you race. This will help soften the tires and provide you with
TIP
needed traction.
Try applying tire conditioner to all four tires
The best time to use tire conditioner is when you find that you are on a
when encountering slick surfaces. Use the
conditioner when on dry, clean tracks
prepared surface wtih limited traction. Do not use it when you are running on
when you need more traction, especially
a dirty or dusty surface (like a parking lot or the street in front of your house)
through the corners.
because the tires will get coated over with a layer of dust and the car will slide
around even more.
If you are going racing, ask the racers there what type of tire conditioner
they are using. It will save you a considerable amount of money in trial and
Product info
#1597,
Tire Adhesive, glues tires to rims
error for the best brand.
#3955, Pro-Line V-Rage Tires & Inserts (S2), pr.
For more tires, try the Pro-Line web site,
http://www.pro-lineracing.com/
33 Rollout
Your gearing by spur/pinion ratio will change as your foam tire diameter
changes with tire wear, tire swap, and foam tire changes. Rollout is a more
precise way to set a vehicle’s gearing because it also takes into account the
tire diameter. Rollout is defined as the distance a vehicle moves forward per
revolution of the motor. Your rollout depends on your tire’s circumference. You
can calculate the circumference by doing the math: Tire Dia. X 3.14 = Circumference. Or you can measure it by adding a tick mark to the bottom tire edge
(fig. 33a) and rolling it along a scale (fig. 33b) until the tick mark again
comes around to the bottom.
When do I consider roll out?
You may wish to match the fastest racer’s gearing. But you can’t simply
use the same pinion and spur combo as the fastest racer because the tire
diameter may be different. That’s when you consider rollout, in which the tire
circumference and transmission ratio are considered in addition to the spur/
pinion ratio. To figure rollout, measure the circumference of the rear tire, how
many teeth are on your pinion and spur gears, and determine your transmission ratio (on the TC3 the ratio is 2.5). Then plug them into this equation:
Fig. 33a Measure your tire’s circumference
for rollout.
TIRE CIRCUMFERENCE times TRANSMISSION RATIO times (SPUR times
PINION) = Final Drive Ratio.
Measure the final drive ratio for the other racer’s car and your own. Now
change your pinion or spur gear numbers until the final drive ratio for your car
matches the other one.
On setup sheet
You usually don’t add rollout to the setup sheet, but you can add it to the Car
Comments section.
Fig. 33b Measure your tire’s circumference
for rollout.
34
Tire Inserts
Today’s tires need support to retain their shape. Tire inserts (fig. 34a) give this
support.
How do I know which foam to use?
The foam insert’s density is important. The foam insert that comes with the
tires nine times out of ten is the insert you should use. Too firm an insert will
cause your car to bounce, resulting in loss of traction. Too light a foam will
cause the car to wander and to be very unstable.
• Typically a harder insert has less rolling resistance, which increases
cornering. However if too hard, it can cause the car to be loose.
• Softer inserts provide maximum traction, but increases drag.
On setup sheet
Write in the foam type that you used, soft, medium, or firm.
Fig. 34a More often than not, you should
stick with the foam tire insert that came with
your tires.
Product info
#3955, Pro-Line V-Rage Tires & Inserts (S2), pr.
35
Wheels
Associated provides 1-piece 24mm wheels (fig. 35a). The standard hex
wheels are made for 4mm axles. No offset comes with the TC3 wheels.
How do I know which wheel type to use?
• Standard 1-piece wheels are used because of their light weight, but their
drawback is that they must be glued to the tires. They allow quick change
from one set of prepared wheel/tire combo to another. Preferred wheel by
racers.
• You can also use 26mm wheels, which will stretch the tire out, giving a
Fig. 35a Your wheels.
larger tire patch. The more tire touching the asphalt (tire patch) the more
traction.
On setup sheet
You fill in what wheels you used, standard or otherwise.
Fig. 35b Glue your tires to the rims to
prevent the tires from slipping.
Fig. 35b Then double-wrap a wide
width rubber band to hold the rubber to
the rim firmly.
TIP
Some drivers balance their wheels with an
airplane prop balancer and lead tape such
as used on golf clubs.
Product info
#1597, Tire Adhesive, glues tires to rims
#3951, Pro-Line Axis Wheels. pr.
#3956, Pro-Line Wabash Wheels, pr.
For more wheels, try the Pro-Line web site,
36
Chassis
Team Associated offers two types of chassis for the RC10TC3 car, molded
composite (fig. 36a) and Carbon Fiber composite (graphite content).
How do I know which chassis to use?
• The molded composite chassis has more flex, but is heavier than
graphite.
• The graphite chassis is lighter. Its rigidity makes it more responsive. (It
is a myth that graphite is a stronger material.)
Fig. 36a TC3 Chassis.
On setup sheet
You note which chassis you are using.
TIP
Add the tough Clear Chassis Protective
Sheet to the bottom of your chassis if you
convert to the Rally version. Remember to
cut out a cooling hole for the motor.
Product info
#3849,
#3850,
#3961,
#6312,
TC3 Chassis, Graphite
TC3 Chassis, Composite
Full Graphite Component Set
Clear Chasis Protective Sheet, 6 1/2” x 18”
37 Front One Way Diff
The optional one way (fig. 37a) front differential will turn the front wheels
when power is applied, just as though you didn’t have a one way installed.
But when braking, the front wheels will be allowed to free spin, giving you
better cornering ability.
When would I use the One Way?
• We recommend the one way on high traction surfaces where braking
ability by the rear wheels alone is sufficient.
On setup sheet
You mark if you used the One Way.
Fig. 37a TC3 One Way diff.
Product info
#3938, Factory Team TC3 Front One Way Assembly
#3939, TC3 Front One Way Differential Ring Gear
with four mounting screws
#3966, TC3 Front One Way Outdrives
#3967, TC3 Front One Way Main Hub with bearings
38
Body
The aerodynamic body protects your components and will influence your car’s
handling on different tracks.
How do I know which body to use?
• The Stratus (fig. 38a) has been very popular among experienced racers
because of its neutral handling characteristics. There was no excessive front
or rear down force, but nicely balanced. Great for 4WD touring cars. The
Fig. 38a Protoform Dodge Stratus
Stratus has the best balance and even down force, front and rear.
• The Alfa (fig. 38b) has lot of steering.
• The Honda (fig. 38c) has a bit less steering than the Alfa.
On setup sheet
You write here which body you used.
Fig. 38b Protoform Alfa Romeo 156 Super
Tourer
Fig. 38c Protoform ‘99 Honda Accord
4-door
Product info
#6150,
#6151,
body
#6152,
#6157,
#6158,
#6159,
Protoform ‘99 Honda Accord 4-door body
Protoform Alfa Romeo 156 Super Tourer
Protoform
Protoform
Protoform
Protoform
Dodge Stratus body
Chrysler 300M body
Chevy Silverado body
Mercedes CLK DT body
For more bodies, try the Pro-Line/Protoform web site,
39
Wing
Your wing (fig. 39a) aids in rear traction. For instance, you can slide the
wing back for more rear traction. Some aftermarket wings allow more adjustments.
Wings are a vital part of the car’s stability. The angle you place the wing
and how much of the wing you cut will cause the car to handle differently.
Also the canards, which are sides of the wings, can change the handling
based on how tall and long they are. So you have a lot of variables that you
can play with on the wings for different handling characteristics.
On setup sheet
You indicate if you used a wing.
Fig. 39a The wing usually comes with the
body.
40 Weight
You can balance or increase the chassis weight by adding lead weights (fig.
40a) to the car.
Why should I add weight?
• To bring the kit up to minumum weight requirements.
• To counter any battery and motor imbalance by adding weights to the
right side of the car.
• Add weight if you need extra steering on slick or high traction tracks.
Your car will change direction slower. Not used for rough surfaces. 7 grams
weight is standard.
How do I add weight?
The weight can come in the form of a lead stick that has been pre-perforated in small segments (fig. 40a) that you break off and add to the car. The
weight is fixed to the car with sticky tape or servo tape.
Fig. 40a Add these break-off weights to your
TC3.
On setup sheet
You mark here how much weight you added to the car in grams or ounces. In
the picture you mark where you added the weight.
Product info
#1595, Factory Team Chassis Lead Weights
41
Track Width
Normally, the dimension from the outside of one front tire to the outside of the
other front tire (the tracking dimension) is about 190mm. For greater stability,
you can replace the 190mm TC3 A-arms with the optional 200mm rally TC3
arms (fig. 41a). We have created a TC3 Rally Conversion Kit for this change.
When should I use the longer arms?
190mm arms is standard. Check your race rules to see if 200mm is allowed
for your class of racing.
• For greater, all-around stability, switch to the 200mm arms. We suggest
switching to a 200mm body if you do this.
Fig. 41a Substitute the original 190mm TC3
How do I swap arms?
arms (bottom) for 200mm Rally arms.
Several parts are involved in this switch.
1. You remove the 190mm arms and replace with the #3982 200mm arms.
2. You remove the rear camber links and replace with #6264 1.375” links
and #6274 ball cups.
3. You remove the original CVDs and replace with #3986 200mm composite
CVD’s.
4. You remove the front steering links and ball cups and replace with #6264
1.375” links and #6274 ball cups.
On setup sheet
You mark in the Car Comments section that you used larger arms.
Product info
#1360,
#3020,
#3860,
#3861,
#3890,
#3891,
#3982,
#3986,
#3984,
#3889,
TC3 Rally Titanium Turnbuckle Set
TC3 Rally Conversion Kit, 200mm
TC3 Front A-arms, 190mm
TC3 Front A-arms, Graphite, 190mm
TC3 Rear A-arms, 190mm
TC3 Rear A-arms, Graphite, 190mm
TC3 Rally Front A-arms, 200mm
Composite CVD, 200mm
TC3 Rally Rear A-arms, 200mm
TC3 Blue Aluminum 200mm CVD Bones
42 Diff Adjustment
What does the diff adjustment do? Tightening the diff locks the diff to the
wheels; loosening the diff allows the wheels to give.
Diff maintenance:
As you tighten the diff bolt (fig. 42a), pay close attention to the feeling
when the spring is fully compressed. Do not overtighten the bolt. When you
feel the spring fully compressed, loosen the diff bolt 1/2 turn. No more, no
less. After you have driven the car for one pack, recheck the diff adjustment as
above so that when you feel the spring fully compressed, loosen the diff bolt
1/2 turn for the lightweight outdrive or 1/8 to 1/4 turn for the steel outdrive.
When do I adjust the diff?
Normal setting is to tighten the diff bolt until the spring is fully compressed,
then loosen the diff 1/2 turn.
• Adjust the diff looser for tracks with low traction.
• Tighten the diff for high bite tracks for more instant accelleration and
throttle reponse.
On setup sheet
You don’t mark this setting on your setup sheet.
Fig. 42a Adjust the diffs with your Allen
wrench through the right side on front diffs
and left side at rear diffs.
TIP
Use the molded lightened outdrives for
some weight savings.
Product info
#3848, Foam Spacer, 7/8” width, ea.
#3908, Composite Outdrives
#3848, Bearing for inside Lightweight Outdrives
43
Track Conditions
Note carefully your type of track conditions, then go back over this Guide and
look for underlined terms that match your track. Note what changes are
recommended and get ahead of the competition already!
Also, paying particular attention to track conditions will help others understand why you deviated from the standard setup, or used it successfully. Note
any track layout description (length, etc.) if your track layout is changed
frequently. Tracks also change depending on the weather, being damp or dry,
etc., and such information omitted may cost you the next race if you use the
same settings when the track changes from dry to damp.
Setup sheets without this track information is practically useless, because
the whole idea of setups is to hook up the vehicle to race to its fullest potential
on that particular track.
On setup sheet
You mark here the type of track you drove on.
44
Race Comments
Every racer should get a feeling for why they finished where they did. Some
reasons are obvious, others not so obvious.
On setup sheet
You write here your outcome of the race. Did you TQ with these settings? Did
you win, but only because the racer who always beat you in the past did not
show? You may want to note these details. In which Main did you finish?
Was it tough competition or smooth sailing? What observations can you write
here that will help you race next time? These comments will help you and
those who see your setup sheet.
45
Car Comments
Every driver has to judge their vehicle’s overall handling after all the settings
have been made and put to the test. You should be able to express those
observations on paper.
On setup sheet
You write here how your vehicle handled overall. Also note any new hop-ups
you were experimenting with, and what impact they had on the car’s performance. What made you happy about the car? How were you dissatisfied?
What problems came up that you would want to consult a more experienced
racer about?
46 Setting the Tweak
The idea of setting chassis tweak is to get all four tires pushing down with
equal weight. To set the tweak of a 4WD independent suspension kit, use a
tool like the MIP Tweak Station© (fig. 46a). Lifting the tires with a blade to
check for tweak as you would for a fixed-axle pan car wouldn’t work for a
4WD car.
1. First check to make sure your car suspension does not bind in any way, and
Fig. 46a MIP Tweak Station
that your turnbuckles are at proper length. Disconnect any sway bars.
2. Place your car onto the tweak machine, carefully centering the car tires
according to the tick marks on the stationary and rocker beams. It does not
matter which direction the car faces. For these instructions, we’ll assume you
put the front end on the rocker beam.
3. Push down and let off on the middle of the front and rear shock towers
several times to loosen them.
4. Check the bubble level. If the bubble is centered, then the front of the car is
tweaked correctly. No adjustments are necessary.
5. If the bubble floats to the right, then adjust the front shock spring on the
other side, the left, to compensate for tweak. (This means that you add a
preload spacer between the shock hex portion and spring, or turn the nut on
the threaded shock to push the spring downward.) If the bubble floats left,
then adjust the front shock spring on the right.
6. Re-attach the sway bar, being careful not to upset the tweak.
Product info
Several manufacturers make products to adjust
tweak accurately.
http://www.miponline.com/
http://shop.hudy.net/
47 How to Go Faster
Here is a checklist of areas to consider that may be “scrubbing” speed. Check
out these potential problems if you want to go faster.
• Poor driving. It is important to practice getting around the track
smoothly, that is, keeping consistent lap times. Speed will suffer if the driver
rambles all over the track, keeps crashing, or takes the long way around. You
want the near tightest line around the track. Without a lot of practice, your
driving skills may not be able to handle the extra power/speed of the setup.
• Too much weight on the car. This wastes the motor’s power because too
much of its energy is just trying to haul it’s own weight instead of propelling it
forward. Consider replacing with lightweight components, such as aluminum
and graphite parts, and titanium.
• Motor/battery combo. You can have the fastest motor, but a poorly
charged or insufficiently rated pack may not be giving it the energy needed to
perform at it’s best.
• ESC/battery combo. You may have a powerful battery pack, but the amps
must first go through the ESC before it reaches the motor. A poor choice of ESC
will slow down your motor. Race-quality ESCs like the Quantum Competition
are a must for serious racing.
• Speed/torque motor combo. The fastest motor on one track may not be
the best choice on a different track. Pros are always seeking the best middle
ground between the motor’s torque and speed. Like two people on a seesaw,
you can’t have both at the highest point at the same time.
• Poor tire choice. Tires too soft or too hard of a compound for the track
may end up wasting valuable motor rpm’s as they spin in place; good traction
is key.
• Poor setup. Remember to start with the standard setup, practice getting
around the track smoothly, then begin to change one setting at a time so you
can learn the effect. Always use a stop watch. Review the section, “Getting the
Best Setup for your TC3.”
• Improper gearing. Use the gearing that came with your manual or motor
for best results. A smaller spur gear and larger pinion will increase the top
speed on your car. Fewer teeth on a pinion gear means more acceleration
(getting up to speed quickly) and less top speed.
• Gear mesh too tight. This will increase load on the motor, costing you
power. You should be able to rock the pinion gear inside the spur gear teeth
slightly.
• Locknuts too tight. It is possible to have the wheel nuts so tight that they
will increase drag on your motor.
• Bushings. One of the best upgrades you can make is to replace your
bushings with bearings. They reduce drag and maintenance.
• Tires loose on rims. Are your tires securely glued to your wheels? Tires
that spin on the rim cost you power.
• Dirt. Grit in your car can roughen the areas that should be smooth.
48
Getting the Best TC3 Setup
The following is how expert racers dial their cars to the track. Tuning
changes combined with practice, practice, and more practice makes a winner. Only make changes that you can justify.
• Make sveral copies of the setup sheet included in this book. Fill it out
according to the standard TC3 setup in your manual and date it. Adjust your
TC3 kit so it matches the standard setup. Fill out the Track Conditions section
of the setup. Mark the page as “Standard Setup.” Put the setup sheet aside
and consider the following tips from the pros.
• Before you change any of your settings, make sure you can get around
the track without crashing. None of your setup changes will work if you
cannot stay on the track. Your goal at this point is to get consistent lap times,
not to go fast. Your lap times may be inconsistent because of poor control. So
get a watch that counts laps and have a friend time your laps until they are
consistent. Keep notes of your lap times so you can check your progress. You
may note your best times on the back of your current setup sheet.
• After your lap times are consistent, focus on your tire type. What are the
winning racers using? Read the Wheels & Tires section for basic guidelines
on tire choice. Change your tires if necessary, mark the change on your setup
sheet, and practice. Are your lap times the same, better or worse? If your lap
times are better, then you have either become a better driver or your new tires
have made a difference.
• Once your lap times are consistent, you can start making the tuning
changes in this booklet. Make changes one at a time, checking your lap
times each time before you make another change. Read the Guide carefully
and thoroughly to make sure your changes match the conditions of the track,
and that you are addressing real problems. Mark each change on your setup
sheet. When you have made real progress, you may want to make up a new
setup sheet with those changes. Put it in a safe place; it can be used again
later if you race on a track with similar conditions.
49
Sample TC3 Setups
BUMPY TRACK SETTING
CARPET WITH FOAM TIRES
Fr
ont Suspension:
Front
1. Block carriers: 0°
2. Kickup: 2°
3. Toe-in: 0°
4. Toe-out: 0°
5. Camber: -1.5°
6. Ride height: 6mm
7. Anti-roll bar: none
8. Ackerman setting: std
9. Shock bodies: VCS
10. Shock piston: #2
11. Shock oil: 30wt
12. Spring: silver
13. Droop setting: 5
14. Camber link postion: std
15. Shock mounting: middle hole
Front Suspension:
2. Kickup: 2°
3. Toe-in: 0°
4. Toe-out: 0°
5. Camber: -1.5°
6. Ride height: 4mm
7. Anti-roll bar: std
11. Shock oil: 70wt
12. Spring: white
13. Droop setting: 6
14. Camber link postion: std
16. Tires: Jaco orange purple
Rear
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Suspension:
Toe-in: 2°
Anti-squat: 2°
Camber: -1.5°
Wheelbase: middle
Ride height: 6mm
Anti-roll bar: none
Shock bodies: VCS
Shock piston: #2
Shock oil: 25wt
Spring: green
Droop setting: 3
Camber link postion
Tower: std
Hub: std
General:
1. Battery postion: rear
2. One-way or Diff: diff
3. Drive shafts: alum CVD’s
4. Body: varies
5. Spur: 72
Rear
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Suspension:
Toe-in: 3°
Anti-squat: °
Camber: -2°
Wheelbase: middle
Ride height: 4mm
Anti-roll bar: std
Shock bodies: VCS
Shock piston: #2
Shock oil: 50wt
Spring: purple
Droop setting: 4
Camber link postion:
Tower: upper inner hoe
Hub: std
13. Shock mounting- middle hole
14. Tires: Jaco purple
General:
2. One-way or Diff: diff
4. Body: varies
5. Spur: 72
ONE-W
AY FRONT DIFF
ONE-WA
(W
orlds
(Worlds 2000)
Fr
ont Suspension:
Front
2. Kickup: 2°
3. Toe-in: 0°
4. Toe-out: 0°
5. Camber: -2°
6. Ride height: 4.5mm
7. Anti-roll bar: std
11. Shock oil: 40wt
12. Spring: gold
13. Droop setting: 5.5
14. Camber link postion: upper inner hole
15. Shock mounting: inner hole
Rear
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Suspension:
Toe-in: 3°
Anti-squat: 0°
Camber: -2°
Wheelbase: middle
Ride height: 4.5mm
Anti-roll bar: std
Shock bodies: VCS
Shock piston: #2
Shock oil: 30wt
Spring: silver
Droop setting: 4
Camber link postion:
Tower: upper inner hole
Hub: std
13. Shock mounting: inner hole
General:
2. One-way or Diff: one-way
4. Body: varies
5. Spur- 72
D r iv e r : _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
T r a c k /C ity : _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
S E T U P S H E E T F O R T H E R C 1 0 T C 3
N u m b e r s in s q u a r e s a r e c r o s s - r e fe r e n c e d to th o s e in th e T u n in g G u id e .
F R O N T S U S P E N S IO N
F R O N T S H O C K S
4
5
C A S T E R
0 °
2 °
4 °
6
K IC K U P
0 °
2 °
-2 °
A N T I-R O L L B A R :
N o n e
9
8
T O E -IN _ _ _ _ _ ° T O E -O U T _ _ _ _ _ °
7
C A M B E R _ _ _ _ _ °
3
R ID E H E IG H T
1 1
E v e n t: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ D a te : _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
S iz e : _ _ _ _ _ _
A C K E R M A N
S td
B a ll e n d : _ _
S p a c e r: _ _ _
B U M P
S T E E R
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
S E T T IN G
O th e r:
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
1 6
B O D Y
1 7
S H A F T
2
C o m p o s ite
S td
A lu m .
O th e r: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
D R O O P G A U G E # : _ _ _ _
1 9
P IS T O N # _ _ _
2 0
O IL _ _ _ _ _ W T
2 1
S P R IN G
S H O C K M O U N T &
C A M B E R L IN K
F ill in h o le s u s e d
2 2
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
1 0
R E A R S U S P E N S IO N
1 2
4
A N T I-S Q U A T
0 °
T O E -IN
1 4
W H E E L B A S E
A D J U S T M E N T
3
2 °
A N T I-R O L L B A R :
1 3
R E A R S H O C K S
N o n e
3 °
S iz e : _ _ _ _ _
7
O th e r: _ _ _ _ _ _
F R O N T
R ID E H E IG H T
S h o rt
1 6
B O D Y
1 7
S H A F T
C A M B E R : _ _ _ _ _ _ °
M e d iu m
2
L o n g
C o m p o s ite
S td
A lu m .
O th e r: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
S H O C K M O U N T &
C A M B E R L IN K
F ill in h o le s u s e d
D R O O P G A U G E # : _ _ _ _
1 9
P IS T O N # _ _ _
2 0
O IL _ _ _ _ _ W T
2 1
S P R IN G
1 5
2 3
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
1 5
O T H E R
3 4
3 5
3 2
F R O N T T IR E S : _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ C o m p o u n d : _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
In s e r t: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ W h e e l: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
3 2
R E A R T IR E S : _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
In s e r t: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ W h e e l: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
2 5
B A T T E R Y P L A C E M E N T
3 6
C H A S S IS
2 6
B a c k
C o m p o u n d : _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
F ro n t
O th e r: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
2 4
B A T T E R Y T Y P E : _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
3 0
3 7
F R O N T /R E A R D R IV E
M O T O R _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
2 7
B R U S H _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
2 7
S P R IN G
2 8
R A D IO
2 8
S E R V O
2 9
E S C _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
3 8
B O D Y _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
3 9
3 2
T IR E A D D IT IV E
N o n e
4 0
4 3
S td
C a r b o n F ib e r
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
4 2
S td
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
W IN G
S m o o th
T R A C T IO N :
L o w
C O M P O S IT IO N :
C o n c re te
A s p h a lt
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
4 4
R A C E C O M M E N T S
M A IN _ _ _ _ _ _
H ig h
C a rp e t
3 1
L E A D W E IG H T S _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ( o z /g m ) In d ic a te lo c a tio n :
N o n e
D IF F A D J U S T M E N T
L o o s e r
S td
T ig h te r
B u m p y
M e d .
S P U R /P IN IO N _ _ _ _ _ _ T / _ _ _ _ _ _ T
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
T R A C K C O N D IT IO N S
S U R F A C E :
O n e -w a y
F IN IS H _ _ _ _ _ _
Q U A L IF Y IN G . P O S . _ _ _ _ _ _ _
N O T E S : _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
O th e r: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
N O T E S : _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
4 5
C A R C O M M E N T S
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
N O T E S : _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
0°
0°
2°
2°
1. Print out and place page on flat
surface.
2. Place TC3 on page, front of car
toward the word "Front." Place tires
between top lines for 0° toe-in or
bottom lines for 2° toe-in.
3. Align left chassis edge parallel to
line at left, keeping tires between the
lines.
4. Look down along outside tire edge
to check angle of tires against angle
of lines.
5. Adjust turnbuckles until tires are
parallel with lines. When tires are
perfectly parallel to lines on either
side, then specified toe-in has been
achieved.
©Associated Electrics, Inc.
3585 Cadillac Ave.
Costa Mesa, CA 92626

COMPLETE TUNING GUIDE

Transcription

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