the Issue here! - DERZEIT fashion week berlin daily
Transcription
the Issue here! - DERZEIT fashion week berlin daily
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Daily + NICOLAS KANTOR & CATWALK REVIEWs + nOFFICE gROPIUSSTADT DERZEIT / M e r c e d e s - B e n z Fa s h i o n We e k B e r l i n D a i ly §2, 02.07.2009 11 am 12 pm DERZEIT Word is by Eastpack My last memory is of golden Alexandra Kruse tinsel cascading from the cei- — ling of Bar Tausend. 1 pm — 2 pm Mongrels in common 3 pm Frida weyer was lying next to me and we Lala Berlin, spawn of one-time MTV VJ Leyla Musik Theater Varieté offsite We woke up in cocktail gowns. Sarah Anja Gockel Chamäleon - DERZEIT / Torstrasse 201 / 10115 Berlin derzeitfashiondaily@googlemail.com derzeitfashiondaily.blogspot.com / the architecture issue Programm by Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 10 am SEITE 2 Piedayesh, began with a line of knitted wristbands in 2004. Since the line‘s nomination for MercedesBenz Fashion Week Karstadt New Generation Award in 2007, Lala Berlin has expanded into mixed materials and all kinds of structured pieces, like the jumpsuit DERZEIT fetishized in Wednesday‘s Fashion spiked little cocktail stirrers decorated with sea horses and swans into our hair. After that, we listened to Jennifer Rush and nibbled on little berries. It is a well-known industry fact, that a fashion show that starts before noon 4 pm >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Issue. There‘s more to come at her show, Thursday, 5 pm >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Wunderkind is the avant-personal line of big poppa The genesis of a fashion designer Wolfgang Joop. „The Genesis of a dress a no-go. Anyways, some blogs Dress“ exhibition, off-site at the Wunderkind boutique ding ovations. Too bad I had 5pm-8pm, deconstructs the new collection alongside also missed the show of Lena photographs from artist Gregor Törzs. Hoschek, a designer who fi- 5.30 pm 4pm at Bebelplatz. Burda Style Preview Departementstore offsite 6 pm is not a fashion show, it‘s revealed that Marcel Ostertag received high heel stan- nally makes fashion for people with just one defined gender. Strenesse blue When I finally reached Bebel- Boss orange platz and I saw HER! Christiane Arp. In person. Hair 7 pm — 8 pm Custo barcelona 9 pm Boss orange discreetly balled up in the most elegant petit chignon. This was no surprise, but the tattoo underneath! I couldn’t day 2. Juli 09 PICTURE Commedia dell’ Arte Couture Edition LATER Münz Strasse 1 (Hof) really make out what it was, because I got distracted by the random contents of the dazzling golden goody-bag by BREE: hair something, volume something, green tea, a mascara which I took for a pen (it was a mascara and a pen), night 2. juli 09 a lint roller (seriously) and Kaos kuratiert das DJ Programm in den KW Berlin still trying to decode the August Str. 69 photographer and his fabulous (22 -5 Uhr) wife and we strolled to Café a votive candle holder. I was inner logic of these items when I bumped into my favorite Einstein. Einstein serves the INSPIRATION OF THE DAY most incredible club sandwiches; even Mary Kate Olsen would skip her low-carb diet for a bite (but she’s in Dubai for the gaudy inauguration of The Palm). While some people were watching homeless people strut it for Patrick Mohr’s collection, we browsed shops and galleries around happy Mulackstrasse. At Kiosk we saw hand-picked vintage gowns in rainbow colors by Margiela and Chanel and an endearing little art show named “From Black Q Tip to Sashiko Embroidery - 51 Things to buy at little Nippon. Firma had these genious Gropius bags (for the Bauhaus SUzy anniversary) and free Champagne, the first of the day. I Menkes is reading DERZEIT hopped over to The Corner to stare at the glistening shoes from The Wizard of OZ Ruby Imprint editor in chief Manuel Schibli managing editors Emily Segal & Michael Ladner art direction Manuel Schibli & Alice Kuhn grafic design / photo editor Sven Hausherr, Alice Kuhn fashion director Sebastiano Ragusa editorial office Miranda Siegel, Basil Katz, Matthew Evans contributors Adriano Sack, Alexandra Kruse, Marco Rechenberg, Eva Munz daily photography Georg Roske, Lhaga Koondhor, Grace Hollaende Slipper Collection. As the sky fashion photographers Nicolas Kantor, Stefan Milev, Manuel Schibli, Alice Kuhn printed by Berliner Zeitungs Druck supported by Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was time once again to slip changed to psychedelic hues it into a cocktail dress. five questions / M e r c e d e s - B e n z Fa s h i o n We e k B e r l i n D a i ly SEITE 3 §2, 02.07.2009 Mark Eley FETISH OBJECT Would you prefer to clone, enhance, or create new forms of beauty? We would like to clone ourselves because it would make our lives a great deal easier, and we would enjoy each other more if we had more time together. / the architecture issue Masterplan I looked at photos of Gropiusstadt, the hyperdesigned bedroom community located near one of the mysterious and omnipresent U-Bahn terminuses – in this instance, U7’s RuWhat is the most beautiful way to veil dow, in the south – and your face? the following terms With the sun, rain, shadow, fog – came to mind: Repetitive. Putty-colored. Drab. And likely, riddled with social problems: whatever doesn‘t hide the beauty of It was the home of Christiane F., the drug-addicted what you are. heroine of Wir Kinder vom Bahnhof Zoo. What is the best way to stand the pain of But in person, I found it neither depreslife and reality? sing nor decaying: It’s more of a Bauhaus grab-bag To recognise the air that we breath than a series of uniform housing blocks. Sometimes today is not that different from to- the boxy towers repeat themselves; sometimes morrow. they’re armored with strange futuristic raised white Mark Eley is one half of tiles; some have windows shaped like sideways cheWhat is this season’s best accessory you vrons; others are shorter, and there are even a few the british design duo Eley can't buy in a fashion store? Kishimoto. His and Wakako single-floor houses. I wondered at the many hues Breath? Jell-O? Kishimoto’s work goes way of “putty” and admired the windows ringed in beyond the colorful happrimary colors. It has that Bauhaus sterility where Opportunity. py prints in their women’s even the graffiti looks out of place; depressing Do you believe in God? wear collection (we believe housing blocks usually look just right covered in Eley Kishimoto sparked the Whether it is the same God as you graffiti, but here it somehow doesn’t make sense. comeback of Liberty prints). believe in, I am not sure. I believe in What was I supposed to make of it now? They also teach; consult Walter Gropius’s satellite town, technisomething or other… major multi-national fashion cally part of Neukölln, was built throughout the brands; and design wallpasixties and seventies according to his “Masterplan”: per, car interiors, shoes He had dreamed up his own „Stadt-Landschaft“, and all sorts of objects a much-discussed concept among architects and that once you see them you urban planners at the time, the goal of which was Check out the website: won‘t be able to live wito make life in the city more beautiful, more appeawww.eleykishimoto.com thout them. ling. Gropius‘s version was to be rich with formidable examples of plattenbau buildings surrounded by greenery and public space. The design was certainly intriguing. Admiring the architecture in Gropiusstadt gave me the same satisfaction I would get after setting BACK up everything in the Playmobil box STORY (with stickers); it’s more a Bauhaus toy universe that represents the concept of a town and the idea of town When you die, you will most likely be either bu- ent architectural form is its ability to steadily exlife, than a town itself. The “town ried or cremated. Then you get a headstone, or pand without degrading the shape. So sky is the square” I sat in, which contains a suyou simply blow away. These institutions of limit in terms of size. remembering the dead reinforce the gloom and The idea is analogous to Rem Koolhaas‘s permarket, a bakery, a café, and an solitude attached to our established fear of death. proposal for a European flag as a barcode made up imbiss, has everything it needs to be a town square. Every structure is so This fear is what most people try to battle by of individual countries‘ flags. New members of the regular, so designed that it was strange achieving fame. Anything to be remembered. Union can always be added onto the whole, while watching schoolchildren wander up The Swiss retaining individual identity, rather than being signified by an anonymous to the buildings, as though they‘re company Algodanza star in a alienating sea of blue. No part of a set without realizing it. offers a twenty-first wonder Koolhaas is the president of But suddenly, it made sencentury novelty for se. Just like Gropius envisioned, it’s the jury board of Friends of the Grememorialization: flasalso an overwhelmingly lush enclave: hy, high-end diamonds, at Pyramid Monument. bushy bushes, leafy trees shooting up forged from the carbon But more intriguing than remains of your loved the magnitude of the project is its from the earth, flowers, and pathways, innovative take on memorialization. some parts of which are canopied one. But doesn‘t the under foliage. Is this the realization of Rather than compartimentalizing mystifying allure of a his ideal community? To say that widiamond lie not in its „beauty,“ but rather in the the deceased into plots or receptacles, which thout digging deeper is to ignore the frigidity of crystallization? Even here, the Todes- have classically been further divided by cultural sharpness inherent in the architecture angst is reflected by an attempt at imitating indi- hegemony or religious belief, the Great Pyramid Monument brings our remains together, regardwhen contrasted with the organic: vidual immortality. The German writer/artist/theorist less of creed. Death is no longer confined to the The nature and the manmade play Ingo Niermann has conceived of a tomb for all blackness of a coffin; rather, it radiates the pluraoff one another. Done poorly, it would detract, but instead it enhances people, a collective, democratic place of rest. The lity of the human race while providing a spectaeverything, imparting a newfound Great Pyramid Monument is constructed from cle in public space for appreciation for urban spaces. personal gravestones containing the remains or the living to enjoy. Check out the website: whatever the person wishes to be remembered by. – Michael Ladner – Miranda Siegel www.diegrossepyramide.de Each stone is the same size. Inherent in this anci- Remembrance of Things Past DERZEIT / M e r c e d e s - B e n z Fa s h i o n We e k B e r l i n D a i ly §2, 02.07.2009 SEITE 4 / the architecture issue DERZEIT / M e r c e d e s - B e n z Fa s h i o n We e k B e r l i n D a i ly §2, 02.07.2009 SEITE 5 / the architecture issue DERZEIT INTERROGATION / M e r c e d e s - B e n z Fa s h i o n We e k B e r l i n D a i ly §2, 02.07.2009 Give me Dirt More Than this nOffice is Markus Miessen, Ralf Pflugfelder and Magnus Nilsson, three architects who share a practice in Berlin and take an interdisciplinary approach to critical architecture, urban intervention and the art world. Markus Miessen tells DERZEIT about the harakiri side of architecture’s economy, the frustration of permanence, Swiss brutalist Hans Demarmels and the beauty of walking your panther on Tottenham Court’s Road. The name of your office suggests on the one hand that it doesn’t exist and on the other that it is just like any other office. What was the true intention? Truth does not exist. After spending far too much time wondering about a name, we decided to outsource the decision-making process. The Swiss curator Hans Ulrich Obrist then decided we should be nOffice. with Hans Ulrich Obrist. We are also working on a pavilion for New York’s Performa Biennial, an exhibition of architecture for the Shenzhen Biennial (China) and a penthouse in Cologne. More interesting than the individual pro- You are located in Berlin, but it seems that the location is really random. True. Apart from two small projects we aren’t currently working on any building projects here. In 2008, we decided that after living in London, we needed a location in which the office could grow. Architecture is a hara-kiri business:You work like crazy and produce only marginal economies. In Berlin at least there‘s flexibility in regards to an economy, in which you can live more comfortably. The decision to leave London did not change the way we work on international projects. Quite the contrary: We tend to waste less time in jects may be our obsession with the Berlin than we used to do in Lon- way in which knowledge production don. can influence spatial practice. The Renaissance Man has You work with Ralf Pflugfelder and Ma- been rendered passé, but the varied gnus Nilsson. How do you split your nature of projects, opportunities, and work? collaborations that arise through EdnOffice is what I would call a com- ward Said’s notion of ‘the ideal intelplementary practice: Each individu- lectual who works from the margin’ al within the office has qualities that allows for an architecture understood the others don’t have. However, the- as a space that is constructed among re is no hierarchy in terms of decisi- political realities, social networks and on-making at all. Each conceptual physical structures.The demand to go design is the result of a collaborative beyond a certain field of knowledge process.We tend to get our architec- inevitably makes the architectural tural commissions through this practitioner a polymath by necessity. stream of parallel investigation. Is it frustrating as an architect as opposed What are you working on at the moment? to a fashion designer that the product of We are currently working on a series your profession has this inevitable permaof archive and library projects – one nence? That you cannot change a house in northeast Brazil and one in Swit- every season? Put it somewhere else? zerland – and we are about to em- Architecture is a practice of continubark on a long – term spatial project ous delay. Quite often projects take regarding archival practice in Berlin. so long that, by the end, you cannot For the last four years, we have been remember how they started. Archiincreasingly interested how know- tecture is certainly, as you mention, a ledge can be accumulated, both phy- profession of frustration. Projects sically and virtually. At the crossroads often die and before you know it, of those two domains, we are deve- you are looking at a mass grave of loping an archive and cultural center unfinished projects, or ‚unrealized projects‘ as Hans Ulrich Obrist would call them. On a more positive note, let’s talk about your point regarding permanence: not every architectural project necessarily has a conscious permanence. I would argue that the more interesting ones actually don’t, or at least they embody the potential for change over time and in terms of utility. Are there strategies to avoid that stasis? Advantages? Cedric Price was a master to circumvent stasis. However, I would never rule out either way. Practitioners tend to become very dogmatic. Their world turns into black and white, good and bad, aesthetically pleasing and goddamn ugly. Within this paradigm, the other’s position is always a priori ruled out. We don’t like to close doors. Every project is different. Every situation requires dissimilar approaches. We would get super-bored if every project were SEITE 6 / the architecture issue / M e r c e d e s - B e n z Fa s h i o n We e k B e r l i n D a i ly SEITE 7 §2, 02.07.2009 / the architecture issue teresting ones, as it takes the idea of open plan and flips it into the vertical. It is also intriguing, as it by now has been tarnished by a patina of more than 40 years of inhabitation. There was a great film produced about OMA’s Bordeaux House for last year’s Venice Architecture Biennial in which the cameraman follows the cleaning lady through the house, while she is commenting on the insufficiencies and lack of performance of the architecture. It is an utterly superb film. Everyone who is interested in design should watch it. I also loved the Palast der Republik before they disassembled it. There was something totally beautiful about the fact that the building wasn’t knocked down, but almost taken apart, like you would disassemble a tent. To be honest, I am more interested in urban experiences than in individual architectures. The most amazing ones for me so far have been Sao Paulo and Cairo. „Architecture is a hara-kiri business: You work like crazy and produce only marginal economies.„“ When was the last time you were profoundly shocked? When my doctor cut a cancerous growth out of my left arm last year. What does the house you grew up in mean to you? Does the room in which you played as a kid still exist? A lot. It has become a safe haven and retreat. It is home. My room still exists. And my parents are doing a good job making it more pleasurable every year. The most interesting mophysical, had permanence, and an ment was the time when my parents easy brief. got a post-kids-leaving dog. It totally changed the architecture and spatial You are constantly travelling the globe, use of the entire house and garden. teaching, consulting, writing. Is theory a way – your way – out of this dilemma? Listen to „In Every Dream Home a Theory should never be a way out, Heartache“ by Roxy Music and tell me but maybe and hopefully a different what you think. way back in. Teaching tends to be a There is something odd in the beligood testing ground for ideas that in ef of newness. Last night when I reality would simply not work or walked my panther down Tottenthat nobody would pay for. I am cu- ham Court Road, I was wondering rious. If I am interested in something, why the wheel needs to be reinvenI pursue it. My way out of a dilemma ted over and over again. It reminds is precisely not to understand it as a me that I cannot do architecture for dilemma but as an opportunity. We architecture’s sake. It incredibly are working with the most in- bores me when thinking of physical teresting people in the arts, architec- matter in space. Give me dirt. More ture, and cultural production global- Than This. Come with me in my ly. Beyond that, I don’t think I could Alfa Romeo Iguana. live in Berlin if I had to be fully based here, it is too provincial. When was the last time you were really excited about a piece of architecture? There is a private residence, a house in Zürich, which was built in the sixties by the now 82-year old Swiss brutalist Hans Demarmels. In terms of a residential spatial experience this was truly one of the most in- DERZEIT More about the various Projects of nOffice: wwww.nOffice.eu www.studiomiessen.com VISIT US ! derzeitfashiondaily.blogspot.com CATWALK PATRICK MOHR Patrick Mohr’s show was a collaboration with Berlins „Strassen Feger“ newspaper for the homeless: a cityspecific assemblage of social consciousness, found materials, and performance. The catwalk was transformed into a waste-scape of triangular platforms – the first glimpse of Mohr’s exhilarating, insistent, weird-beard meditation on the form of the triangle. The aesthetic was the future rendered in burlap, a hacker’s version of 1970s postapocalyptica. The mixed cast of homeless people and models were all caked in white paint with triangular glyphs on their foreheads. Down the runway came a gnome with a triangular hood, then a black mesh placket caked with paint, then a Tokyo Jedi in a mustard tunic. Next the triangles became growths and prostheses, sprouting from the models’ bodies like knobs on an old potato. And just when it seemed too doom-drone, a pair of lovers appeared in good denims and white Ts, hand in hand, looking out on an invisible acid horizon.The show’s final triangle was a wizard‘s cap – which, I reckon, should have been on the head of Mohr himself. series of twisted silk bubbles,Venetian blinds made of Jello, as versatile as saris. Each model tied the next girl’s garment on as they passed each other on the catwalk, a welcome series of affectionate moments. Then came the hats, contemporary safari caps that suspended mesh over the face or capes down the back – post-postcolonial poetry. UDK The students of UDK showed more than 150 looks in the tent Wednesday night, and almost half of them featured a strong, exaggerated shoulder. BLACK COFFEE Some highlights:Very Wolpertinger’s The Black Coffee show began in a crisp plastic oxford shirt that inflated neon glow: red, blue, white, orange, to cloud-like proportions; From Toe yellow. There were beats and bells. to Top’s integrated model and comfy Then came the models wearing a chair, plus a dress that sprouted two plaster horse heads; Monocore’s orange fur megalith. RAMIREZ It was bad enough when one of Pablo Ramirez’s models broke her stilletto in the middle of the runway and we all had to watch her limp back at the show’s glacial, melodramatic pace. But her return, a few minutes later, in a floor length fishtail black skirt and same wrecked pair of heels, actually shocked me – the combo was so impossible to wear that she couldn’t help contorting, and actually turned into an alien before my eyes. Remember Vincent D’Onfrio’s extraterrestrial character in Men In Black, who squirms around in the human skin he’s wearing as a disguise? Like that. – Emily Segal DERZEIT / M e r c e d e s - B e n z Fa s h i o n We e k B e r l i n D a i ly §2, 02.07.2009 SEITE 8 / Adver tisement Mercedes-bEnz Fashion Week Lounge BLACK COFFEE, 2009 winner of the Mercedes-Benz Award for Fashion, was founded in Johannesburg in 1998 by Jacques van der Watt, a graduate of Leggatts Design Academy Johannesburg. Since then, with the help of partner designer Danica Leben, who studied at the Midrand Graduate Academy Johannesburg, the label has played on a set of dynamic forms that spin old history into new structures. See the review of their show at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tent at Bebelplatz on Wednesday on page 7 of this issue. DERZEIT: I'm interested in talking a little bit about the way that you veiled the face in your show today, and the ideas behind that. BLACK COFFEE: We often play with themes of identity and revealing and concealing. It's something that we keep on revisiting.We also wanted the veiled look – its when you feel fragile, you're covering yourself from the elements, and I think it's a time that everyone's a little bit nervous about what's going on in the world. Also a big part of that choice for us was this new African aesthetic that we have. Everything is hand-crafted, hand-printed and hand-dyed. In Africa? Yes, in South Africa. And the hats have this sort of post-colonial feel to them, like the mosquito net – they have all these elements that sort of brought it back to an African inspiration. It seems like that kind of inspiration can't help being political. It's political on the personal level, that you have to veil your face when you're nervous, and also more broadly, in those post colonial themes Sure. So I'm curious about what you see as the ethics of using those kinds of political themes in fashion. We're not too political, but I suppose coming from South Africa, political themes are part of daily life. So back home we're not considered political designers, though it might seem like it. In the end though, it's the aesthetic that's the most important thing. At the same time, though, we are thinking designers and we do think a lot about the symbolism of clothes. How would you describe the creative scene back home in South Africa? I think at the moment there's quite a lot of new fashion designers on the market and there's a lot of hype about the young designers coming out. We have quite a lot of 'political designers' in South Africa, like doing T-shirts that instead of having a picture of Che Guevara have Mandela. There's a lot of that kind of political fashion, which sells very well, and is very popular among the youth. Especially stuff that seems quite patriotic, quite pro-South Africa, because it's quite a new democracy, so that kind of stuff is like a gimmick that helps the retail. A lot of designers have gone for it. We have two fashion weeks back home, one in Cape Town and one in Johannesburg, and they both also do shows in the other cities, so it's actually like there's a fashion craze at the moment. But it's more of an audience-driven movement, it's not because it's such a huge business. Do you think this 'new' South African fashion is a lot of hype, or do you think it's real? I think some of the hype is real because its a lot of consumers that are preferring to buy South African, officially South African designers that have a unique appeal that's unique to South Africa – people feel good about that, about wearing clothes that are patriotic. One of the issues that DERZEIT is putting out focuses on the connection between architecture and fashion. I was wondering if architecture is a particular source of inspiration for you. Definitely. Construction is something that we are very particular about. And we like what we sometimes call "body-defying clothes" – clothes that aren't just on the contour of the body. And we often work with folds that create shapes. So we look at things like architecture for inspiration, but honestly I dont think a lot of fashion is very architectural and I don't think ours is – not particularly. I wouldn't say in a press release, but I think think designers often claim their designs are architectural when they aren't. shion in South Africa last year, and the competition took place this year. We had to make an installation of six pieces, in which we read a modern South Africa. And we drew inspiration from many of the local tribes around, and particularly ones from the neighboring countries, like Namibia.The baby bag developed from the way that most African women carry their babies on their backs and wrap them with a piece of cloth. And we just thought it would be kind of amazing to make a bag that had that silhouette. I'm interested in the moments in the show when the models dressed one another. We've been playing with that idea for quite a while now. A few seasons back we did a whole collection where we designed garments that were seamless and mutable. so that dress you saw today actually comes out of a diffusion range called Everyone Can be a Designer by Black Coffee – because you can wear that dress in about 25 different ways. So its a great recession piece. But the pieces in the show today were more special, the fabrication, the beading, and all the the ribbon pieces. The diffusion line is more stretch fabric, though with the same idea of being mutable. So I guess this leads us back to the ambiguity of dealing with postcolonial issues – given then you're white designers, and you're called Black Coffee, I think its an interesting spot to negotiate. Do you feel like you have to deal with those issues a lot, with the press and the public? Not really. It's more about drawing inspiration from the past, from traditional dress, more than a political statement. Can you tell me a bit about the "African Baby" art piece you did? Well we were nominated for the Mercedes-Benz Art Award for fa- Speaking of the past, where do you see the future of Black Coffee going from here? Hopefully into a few Berlin stores!