Hawaii Lure Coursing Club Membership Handbook 2011

Hawaii
Lure Coursing Club
Membership Handbook
2011
"Always be Coursing"
"Always be Coursing"
www.hawaiilurecoursingclub.com
hawaiilurecoursing@gmail.com
Table of Contents
Lure Coursing Information
What is Lure Coursing: Preface
Lure Coursing Safety
Learning to Course
Using a Slip Lead
Lure Coursing Information Made Simple
The First Time
Conditioning Your Dog for Running or Coursing
Lure Coursing Tips
Wrapping Your Dogs Legs
Cooling Down Your Dog
A Humorous Look at Lure Coursing
Basic First Aid Information
On Being Prepared in a Pet Emergency
Things You Should Know How to Do
Keeping a Pet Emergency Kit
Health Information for Your Dog:
Ticks
Why Dog’s Have Separation Anxiety
Introducing Dogs to other Dogs
Membership Section
Additional Lure Coursing Safety Information
HLCC 2011 Code of Ethics
HLCC 2011 By-Laws
Attending: What to Bring to Lure Coursing
HLCC Recommended Reading
HLCC 2011 Vendor Recommendations
Dog Rescue Information
Lure Coursing Equipment
Glossary
Autumn 2010
Winter 2011
Spring 2011
WHAT IS LURE COURSING
Preface
We do conformation with our dogs for us, not them.
We do agility with our dogs for the both of us.
We do lure coursing with our dogs strictly for them.
- Unknown
Lure Coursing is a canine performance event that was
developed in the early 1970's by Lyle Gillette and other
California “Sighthound” fanciers who hunted jackrabbits in the
open field, which risked the harm caused by barbed wire
fencing.
They invented lure coursing as a safer, more
controlled sport for “Sighthounds” that would recreate the
physical requirements of open field coursing and allowing them
to continue testing the functional abilities of their
“Sighthounds.” The dogs chased plastic bags or animal skins
on a course laid out to simulate escaping game.
Lure coursing is similar to hare coursing, but without the
rabbit. A lure - usually a white plastic bag on a string - is
pulled through a series of pulleys, by a motor, controlled by a
lure operator. Courses vary from short, straight courses, to
elaborate pulley systems and extremely long courses that
mimic the way a rabbit would run in the field. It’s all great fun
for the dog.
Hawaii Lure Coursing Club offer lure coursing to dogs of
any breed, so if your dog likes to chase and run, he will love
chasing the lure. Remember, this is essentially an all-out
sprint. Without question, your dog will get some serious
exercise, even if they are already extremely fit.
Lure coursing equipment is used to create an artificial or
mechanical lure, which is often referred to as the “bunny,”
which can travel at speeds in excess of 40 mph. The artificial
lure is pursued by any dog that possesses a strong prey
instinct. Below: Animal skin lures used for coursing.
The equipment is also used by other dog owners for various
reasons such as physical conditioning and for just the sheer
enjoyment of watching their dog have fun. Lure coursing is
"fun" for the dogs, and they do it because they want to run
fast and chase an artificial lure. You cannot force a dog to
chase a lure.
Lure coursing is a great way to spend some time with your
dog, meet new people and enjoy the beauty of watching the
athleticism of the dogs we love.
If you have ever seen a dog in action, you quickly realize that
dogs naturally chase the lures and really don't need much
training. They love to run and chase, and this is a great family
event that can allow the dog to safely display his natural
tendency to run and chase little moving things as well as
allowing you to meet with other like minded dog owners.
Hawaii Lure Coursing is an informal group of people who are
interested in and or participate in all breed lure coursing in
Hawaii. Emphasis is on fun, safety and exercise for the
dogs in a non-competitive environment.
For the safety of the dogs the lure coursing machine is fenced.
We provide cones for and around every pulley in the field. In
addition, we make a pilot run of the lure before the first course
of the day, start the lure at the signal from the dog owner,
make every effort to keep the lure 10-25 feet in front of the
dog at all times and will stop the lure anytime the safety of the
dog(s) are in jeopardy.
“Many dogs love the thrill of the chase, not just
“Sighthounds.” It doesn’t matter if your dog is a
Chihuahua or a Great Dane, if they love to chase things
they will LOVE Lure Coursing! And even if you think
they won’t many people are very surprised when their
dogs go nuts for the lure!”
LURE COURSING SAFETY
Every effort is made to cover hazards, but in order to cover
them you first have to find them. So, we walk the course, but
sometimes we only see a narrow area when walking the
course and cannot find everything, so we ask that you look
around and report any potential problems.
Be on the lookout for holes, gopher holes, open sprinkler
heads, glass, bottle tops, sticks, stones or anything that could
injure a dog while coursing.
Things for you to remember:
1. For the safety of the dogs, we do not use a continuous loop
system so the dog is always in front of the lure. However, a
string moving at 30-40 MPH can cut through flesh: Yours or
your dogs. Stay away from the string and don’t step on it
when not carrying it out to the starting line.
1.
Coursers - born to chase a lure.
2.
Short Attention Span - will chase for a while then
lose interest or come back to mom or dad.
Hunters - Hunting dogs that are very scent driven
will get excited, but when they realize that the lure is
a bag, will give up.
String Biters - Will get frustrated when they can't
catch the lure and will start biting the string.
Pulley Biters - They get excited at the whirring of
the pulleys and abandon the course to attack the
pulleys.
3.
4.
5.
2. We make every effort for the dog to catch the lure as it is
his prize. However, due to a variety of factors this may not
always happen.
Some dogs are just “naturals” at coursing and they just “get”
it, remaining undistracted once they are onto the lure.
3. We try to run dogs that are matched for speed and
endurance: A dog that is much slower will get too far behind,
making it difficult to keep track of both the lead dog and the
slow dog and is not fair to the slower dog.
4. Stay back from the course and do not step on the string.
Invariably, there will be loose dogs getting onto the course, so
we will stop the lure if there is a danger, or run the course all
the way through to catch the stray. Keep your dogs on a leash
and close or in a crate while other dogs are running.
5. Some dogs will attack the lure machine. For this reason we
have a fence around it.
LEARNING TO COURSE
Dogs seem fall into a few classifications or sometimes a
combination of two.
Other dogs need more time to understand the “game,” and
they might be distracted by other dogs, or might try to play
with the other dog instead of chasing the white plastic bag.
Shy or “shaky” dogs might benefit from a period of solo
practice runs, so that they can find the activity self-rewarding
and build their self-confidence.
“If your dog pulls and barks while other dogs run, you
probably have a natural lure courser.”
It’s a time where the dogs can do what they were bred to do
and instinctively want to do. Simply put, they enjoy it. Lure
coursing is good, healthy exercise and gives your dog a chance
to do something with you that excites him and strengthens
that special bond between the two of you - because you are
encouraging and praising him for something he enjoys.
Keep in mind the four key principles of training for strength,
agility, endurance and safety:
The fresh air, the excitement of the dogs running and playing
and the company of friendly people are all part of lure
coursing.
1) Frequency – at least two sessions per week.
2) Intensity – each training effort must be greater than the
previous one.
3) Volume – training should build up in the early season to
develop strength and endurance, and increase in intensity as
the season progresses.
4) Specificity – vary terrain, weather conditions and anything
else that replicates a lure course site.
As much as possible free-run your dog so that he can learn to
move his body in sync with his brain. And, to build his muscle
strength, walking is much better than trotting, as the muscles
used for walking are the same ones used for running. Running
is best for building a good cardio system. This is hard running,
not just running around the yard. Work your dog right before
he runs, be it stretching or a really good play session (tugging,
fetching) up to one hour before running. Remember the cooldown afterwards.
More than anything else though, lure coursing is something
you and your dog should do for the sheer pleasure of it.
USING A SLIP LEAD
Slip Leads are used for lure coursing with “Sighthounds;”
however, they work just fine with all breeds for slipping. They
are a collar with rings at either end, with a leash attached. The
leash is looped through the rings in such a way that the dog
can be quickly released at the signal.
Lure coursing is different things to various people. It's an
opportunity to let your dog succumb to their natural instinct;
it’s an enjoyable day spent with friends who have a common
interest; it’s time spent with your "best friend" in a fairly
secluded and beautiful outdoor setting; it’s a visually exciting
sport that is both poetic and strenuous. Best of all, it is
something that the dogs themselves love to do.
1.
Coursing has always been a very sociable event. Everyone who
attends has the same interests and the love of dogs, so it is
much easier to make friends and enjoy the atmosphere.
First thread your lead through the "empty" D ring and
make a loop, bringing it back through the first D ring.
2.
Next, wrap the extra lead around you holding hand
and hook your finger through the loop you made.
5.
To take your dog to the start, you can thread the end
of your slip lead through the loop you make. Then all
you have to do when you get to the line is pull the
end back through.
Lure Coursing Information
Made Simple
3.
1.
2.
Safety for the dogs is our number one priority.
Many of the same people attend lure coursing every
week and have been friends with each other for a
long time and it is easy to feel like an “outsider”. Be
patient, after coming to several events they will start
to get to know you and you’ll find that they are as
loyal and friendly as their dogs.
3.
Come willing to help. The best way to learn and get
to know people is to offer to help. Even though you
are “new,” there is still plenty that you can do, just
ask.
If you decide that you would like to get your dog
involved be sure to ask questions. Most dogs love coursing, but a few could care less.
Sometimes it's as simple as changing the lure color,
using fake fur, feathers or a ball. Some dogs really
want to chase the lure but get "stuck" in the "mom or
dad bubble," but eventually "pop" the "bubble" when
their inner drive takes over.
Put your other hand under the dog's waist, and press
your knees into his butt.
4.
5.
4.
Now, lean your elbow along your dog's back. In this
position, your dog can't back up, can't spin, and can't
jump up and smack you in your face.
12. Bring a comfortable chair. You might stay longer than
you had planned. Lure coursing can be very
entertaining and even relaxing to some.
6.
7.
8.
9.
When the other dogs are running please keep a tight
hold on your dog’s leash.
If you are bringing more than one dog, be sure to
bring a friend or make a friend there to hold the dogs
that aren't running.
You can run your dog as many times as it remains
safe and within the physical fitness level and ability of
your dog. Allow plenty of recovery time between
runs. The Lure Operator will use careful judgment
and will not run a dog if it is not safe.
13. From time to time we move pulleys, tighten the string
and check the course, so please be patient while we
are performing routine maintenance or repairs on our
equipment.
14. This is a learning experience for all involved. If there
is any way we could improve let us know.
We are dedicated to the safety and well-being of your
dog. Don't hesitate to ask any questions. If you would
like to walk the field before running your dog - just
ask, we can probably perform some maintenance at
that time.
10. Bring water. Some for you to drink, some for your
dogs to drink (small, frequent sips of water are best)
and some to pour on your dogs to cool them down.
We supply a "community" water dish, but our supply
is limited.
11. Bring cameras and friends to take videos or pictures.
We have volunteer non-professional photographers
(also lure course loving dog owners) from time to
time taking pictures that will be posted on Facebook.
LURE COURSING INFORMATION
The First Time
Lure coursing is a humane sport which re-creates the chase of
the hare by the pursuing hound. The "bunny" consists of a
white plastic bag attached to a line that runs through a series
of pulleys to simulate the zigzag path of a rabbit on the run.
The dogs run for fun.
After a run, take the dog for a cool down walk, this will help
prevent muscle cramping and will give you a chance to
observe any change of gait and do a quick "once over"
inspection of feet and legs. If it's a warm day, wet the dog
down, particularly the chest, inner thighs, and feet. It's also a
good idea to wet him down before the run. Wait until his
breathing has slowed down somewhat before allowing him to
drink water, and make sure he has plenty of fresh water
thereafter.
Adapted from John Parker article HOW TO GET STARTED IN
LURE COURSING, who volunteers for Greyhound Pets of
America-Atlanta /Southeastern Greyhound Adoption, and is
President of the Southeastern Greyhound Club. He is a
member of the Appalachia Coursing Club and the Coursing
Hound Association of the Southeast.
What to bring to lure coursing? At a minimum, a folding chair
for yourself (although you probably won’t get to sit down)
drinking water and a water bowl for your dog. If you have a
crate and can get it in your car, bring it -it's a great place for
your dog to rest and relax out of sight of the lure, and that will
be a nice break for you as well. It's a good idea to bring your
own shade in the form of an inexpensive picnic canopy, as
sometimes the shade may be limited.
When the lure is moving during the other dogs' runs, make
sure that you have a good hold on your dog -don't let him out
the full length of the lead, as a lure-excited dog can most
assuredly back out of even a martingale collar at that distance.
If your dog won't run, don't despair - just run along with him
and encourage him for the first few yards. More often than
not, that will help "push the button," and your dog will take
off, confident that "it's okay to chase the bunny."
LURE COURSING INFORMATION
Conditioning Your Dog for Running or Lure Coursing
Before You Start: Getting Your Dog In Condition to
Run: Your dog should be in the best physical condition
possible. Consider lure coursing to be the equivalent to
human sprinting competitions and LURE COURSING to be
equivalent to human marathons. Your dog needs to be
prepared. Think of him as a "Canine Athlete."
While lure coursing is a great sport for you and your dog
to enjoy, we must remember that the safety of our dog is
of utmost importance. As responsible owners, we should
never knowingly put our dog at additional risk. If you do
not have a formal exercise program with your dog, it is
likely that he is not in the best possible physical condition.
Start conditioning exercises as far in advance as
possible.
Ways To Condition Your Dog:
Free exercise your dog (running, jumping, playing) in a
large secure area regularly. Walking, jogging and hiking
regularly and on varied terrain. Start off light, building
your "workout sessions" to longer distances. Several miles
per week at a consistent speed is ideal, with 3 to 5
sessions per week.
Lure coursing or running events are good places to
practice short, straight distances (50-150 yards to start) if
your dog is keen on the bunny. Running at a gallop helps
to build loin (back) muscles.
Be careful with frequent walking or jogging on pavement.
The impact on joints over time can be detrimental especially in young dogs who are still growing.
Dogs under the age of 18 months should not be forced to
exercise too strenuously. Keep exercise in moderation and
within the dog's physical capabilities.
Older dogs should be checked for pre-existing conditions
before running. It’s a good idea to discuss your concerns
with your vet regarding the condition of your dog and
your interest in lure coursing.
Is My Dog In Good Condition?
You should see good muscle definition in the shoulders,
back, loin and hindquarters. When putting your hands on
the dog, the body should feel hard, firm, strong, muscular
and lean.
With Italian Greyhounds, often being able to see 2-3
vertebrae and a suggestion of rib/hip bones is a good
indication of healthy weight (though this can vary
depending on the build of the dog).
"Layers" of fat should not be found anywhere on the dog.
Dogs that feel soft with "squishy" layers of fat over their
ribs/back are not in a healthy weight. Carrying excess
weight in strenuous be damaging on the joints of finely
boned “Sighthounds” or any dog at all!
Keep in mind that 1-2 extra pounds on a 10 lb frame is
equivalent to 10-20 pounds on a 100 lb frame. Overweight
dogs should not be allowed to course.
Warm Ups and Cool Downs:
Always begin with a warm-up exercise prior to running or
conditioning your dog. The warm-up will help dilate blood
vessels, giving the dog an increased supply of oxygen and
nutrients which in turn feed muscles and nerves. Warmups can consist of massage, stretching and light trotting.
Cooling down your dog is also very important to help
regulate heart rate and also to help bring your dog down
psychologically. Walking for 5-10 minutes after running or
conditioning your dog can be very beneficial.
Training Basics: How to Get the Most Out of
Practice
Your dog will do best if he is healthy, exercised regularly
and fully trained in order to run successfully. Just like any
other sport or event, this takes practice.
Some important things to remember:
Be patient! Taking your time with training will pay off in
the long run. Always end on a positive note and leave
your dog wanting more. Between practices, you can train
at home by playing with a plastic bag or fur tied to a lunge
whip and by conditioning your dog.
Decide ahead of time what you want to accomplish at
each practice and be clear with your instruction to the lure
operator. "Let him run straight out, take one turn and
catch the bunny."
Remember: "GO" sounds a lot like "NO"!
1. Start building prey drive by having your dog chase a
fabric, fur or plastic bag lure tied to a string or a lunge
whip.
2. Introduce your dog to the lure machine with short 2550 yard runs. Walk your dog ahead of the lure and let it
pass him before you release him to chase it.
3. Overtime, work up to 50-75 yard runs. Then 100 to
200 yard runs.
4. Once your dog is very keen on running these straight
sprints, begin to introduce turns. Start with short distances
and 1 or 2 turns.
5. Gradually increase the length and amount of turns until
your dog is easily completing regulation sized courses.
6. Make sure you are properly conditioning your dog once
you have reached more advanced levels of training. A
poorly conditioned dog may get tired and quit. This is a
very tough habit to break once started.
LURE COURSING TIPS
Praise, praise, praise! Always throw a big party when your
dog succeeds to reinforce that you WANT him to chase
and catch the lure. Play tug with the lure after the run and
praise your dog lavishly.
Run your dogs in pairs to start with so that one chases the lure
and the other chases the dog until they get the hang of it and
both chase the lure, then you can run them separately or still
together.
Tie a white plastic bag on a lead or string and run around the
yard to get them to chase as this will give them the idea of
what to do at lure coursing. When you first go to coursing it is
best to take your dog down and let him see what the other
dogs are doing with the lure, and talk to them (get excitement
in your voice) and get your dog excited at what is going on.
When it's your turn and you are waiting for the lure to come
past before you let your dog go, talk to him get him excited,
encourage him as to what is about to happen, get some
excitement in your voice.
LURE COURSING INFORMATION
Wrapping Your Dogs Legs Prior to Lure Coursing:
Information Primarily for Whippets and Greyhounds
If there are other people at coursing they may let you run one
of their dogs with yours so that their dog chases the lure and
your dog chases theirs until they understand what to chase.
Not all dogs will chase, you have to have one that is a hunter
or interested in running, once he understands coursing then
one of your other dogs who maybe not as interested will follow
the dog.
We have half runs for the first timers, where the dogs only run
half the course until they get used to chasing, but we have
always start our dogs together and with a full run, then
separate them later.
Don’t worry if yours dogs are slow to pick it up, give them
some time, don’t forget lure coursing is for the dogs and they
enjoy a run no matter how long or short.
Practice wrapping your dog’s legs: Many people wrap their
dog’s legs to protect them from line burn and to keep the dew
claws from catching the line. In most cases this is not
necessary since the line is out in front of the dog at all times.
Dogs do cross the line and run along it in field coursing, so
many people choose to wrap. Some people extend the wrap
down to cover the large pad on the base of each foot if the
ground is rough or hard. Greyhounds, for example, can easily
tear off pieces of this pad when turning or stopping quickly on
a rough surface. You can get VetWrap at your local vet.
Wrap the legs just tight enough for the wrap to stay on at a
full gallop. Practice at home, so your dog gets used to the
wraps and you have a feeling for how tight to wrap them. You
will want to take the wraps off after each run and re-wrap your
dog’s legs just before his next run.
LURE COURSING INFORMATION
Cooling Down Your Dog
After your dog has run it needs a cool down period. The main
goal of the cooling down period is to promote recovery and is
just as important as the warm up. The cool down performed
properly, will assist your dog’s body with the repair process
bringing in blood with oxygen and nutrients which are needed
by the muscles, ligaments and tendons to properly recover
after your dog has run. Cooling down allows the dog’s
temperature to drop, the muscles to cool down and the heart
and respiratory rate to drop gradually. The cool down should
utilize the same muscles that were used during the run and it
should last until the dogs breathing returns to normal.
How a Dog Sweats:
Dogs only have a few sweat glands located mostly in the pads
of their feet. Since our canine friends are covered in fur, they
have to find an alternative way to release excess body heat,
and this is where panting comes in. Panting is your dog’s
primary cooling system.
The Do Not’s of Cooling Down:
Following is a list of what not to do while cooling your dog.
It is important to get the blood flowing and the muscles
warmed up to prevent injury. Remember, your dog is an
athlete and the preparation for your dog to do lure coursing
does not begin when the dog goes out onto the field and end
when it comes off. So don’t allow you dog to run without a
warm up routine and a cool down routine. Prevention is
always better than the cure.
LURE COURSING INFORMATION
A Humorous Look at Lure Coursing Designations
Do not allow your dog to sit and relax immediately after
running – This can cause post exercise muscle stiffness and
cramps. The cool down process helps as it keeps the blood
circulating, helping to prevent blood pooling and removing the
waste products that build up in the muscles after strenuous
running.
Do not allow your dog to drink too much water immediately
after running - When the dog is heated and panting only allow
a few laps of water. A dog panting heavily can take in air while
drinking and if your dog is taking in large amounts of water
there is a risk of bloat or cramping. Water in the stomach does
not cool the dog you just need to keep the mouth wet so the
panting is more effective. While walking use a spray-bottle to
keep the mouth wet so the dog does not gulp too much water.
Allow the dog to drink only a small amount of water during this
part of the cool down.
Do not hose your dog immediately after running - You should
not hose your dog directly after running. It is wise to walk the
dog for about five minutes allowing the heart rate and
breathing to slow down. You can use the spay-bottle to
lightly spray the dog on the back and under the belly.
Do not wet you dog and then put it into a small crate Evaporation cooling cannot take place in a small enclosed area
and the crate will turn into a sauna.
A Cooling-Down Routine:
Find a shaded area to walk your dog. Use a spray bottle to
spray water into your dog`s mouth to help keep the mouth
cool and wet. This is a good way to control the amount of
water intake immediately after running. Drape a wet cloth or
use your spray- bottle to spray water over the dogs back while
walking to cool off -this is a form of evaporative cooling which
is more effective. After the dog has walked and seems calmer,
you can hose him off. For best results hose the dog’s feet, legs
and underbelly. Continue walking until the dogs breathing
appears more even, and make sure that your dog is drinking
and urinating well as hydration is important for the athletic
dog.
A Warm-Up Routine:
Walk your dog in the shade for a good five minutes before
running. This increases the blood flow through the tissues
making the muscles more supple aiding in the prevention of
damage and stiffness. This is especially important after your
dog has had their first run in the morning as stiffness will
occur.
LURE COURSING FANATIC
NOVICE (LCF–N)
Follow: The dog makes an attempt to follow the lure.
Anticipation/Enthusiasm: The dog enters the field easily and
shows some interest in the chase. The Kill: The dog
investigates the lure at the end - sniffing and maybe mouthing
it. Lack of Obedience: The dog still listens and obeys
commands as normal.
LURE COURSING FANATIC
INTERMEDIATE (LCF–I)
Follow: The dog follows the lure completely around the field at
least once. Anticipation/Enthusiasm: The dog enters the field
with excitement and eagerly chases the lure. The Kill: The dog
catches the lure at the end - grabs it and then let’s go. Lack of
Obedience: The dog’s normal level of obedience is affected but
they still respond to commands (eventually).
LURE COURSING FANATIC
ADVANCED (LCF–A)
Follow: The dog chases the lure around the field as often as
we will let them. Anticipation/Enthusiasm: The dog pulls the
owner into the field when it’s their turn and must be dragged
out when their turn is over. The Kill: The dog catches the lure
at the end - grabs it and then has to be told by their owner to
let go. Lack of Obedience: The dog needs to be given
commands multiple times - the chance they will listen is about
50/50.
LURE COURSING FANATIC
EXCELLENT (LCF–E)
Follow: While awaiting their turn, the dog tries to follow the
lure from outside the field (usually pulling their owner’s arm
out of its socket) when another dog is running.
Anticipation/Enthusiasm: The dog rips a hole in their soft sided
crate and runs to the gate to the field or the dog yanks its
owner off their feet and drags their prone body to the gate.
The Kill: The dog catches the lure, shakes it and ”kills” it
(taking the line off the pulleys). The lure needs to be forcibly
removed from the dog. Lack of Obedience: The dog is all but
deaf to any commands the owner gives unless they are out of
sight and hearing of the lure and the dog currently running.
BASIC FIRST AID INFORMATION
On Being Prepared In A Pet Emergency
TRUE LURE COURSING FANATIC
(TLCF)
Follow: The dog follows the line even when it’s not moving
and/or follows where the line USED to be after it’s been put
away! Anticipation/Enthusiasm: The dog starts whining as soon
as their owner turns off the highway and onto our street - still
2 MILES away! If the dog sees a plastic bag in everyday life he
will chase, catch and ”kill” it. Your groceries are not safe! The
Kill: The lure needs to be cut from the line because the dog
will NOT give it up!
We ask that those with dogs that meet these criteria
bring their OWN plastic bags!
Lack of Obedience: What obedience?!? The owner knows
better than to even try!
You've just clipped your dog’s nail too short and now it's
bleeding - QUICK - what do you do? Being prepared for
emergencies can help save your pet's life. If you're struck by a
moment of panic when something happens to your pet and
you're not sure what to do, the following advice from Dr.
Gretchen Schoeffler, Chief of Emergency and Critical Care at
Cornell University's College of Veterinary Medicine, may help.
While most injuries should still be looked at by your
veterinarian, providing your pet with first aid can increase the
chances of speedy recovery. Dr. Schoeffler stresses that one of
the most important things you can do is to make sure that you
readily have your pet's health records available and contact
information for your regular veterinarian, an emergency
veterinarian to use during off-hours, and an animal poison
control hotline. Also, everyone should have a pet first aid kit on
hand. This kit may contain many of the same things as your
family's first aid kit. For instance, Dr. Schoeffler recommends
the following:
Pet First-Aid Kit Contents:
Hydrogen peroxide (3% solution) - to induce vomiting,
administer only under direction of veterinarian (stay away from
syrup of ipecac unless your veterinarian recommends it).
Styptic powder or sticks - for toenails that you have overclipped.
Clean towels or bandages - for a temporary fix to stop blood
and keep area clean. Dr. Schoeffler cautions against using
stretchy material such as ace bandages, which can cut off
circulation if wrapped too tightly.
Neosporin ointment - for scrapes, to be used under the
direction of a vet.
Backboard, wood, door, blanket - to act as a temporary
stretcher to transport your pet to a car.
Scissors - for cutting bandages to size.
Tweezers - to remove a tick.
Eyewash (like contact wearers use) - if something gets into
your pet's eye, this can be used to flush it out.
Thermometer - you should have a dedicated thermometer for
your pets and either KY jelly or plain petroleum to ease taking
a rectal temperature.
Plain diphenhydramine tablets (Benadryl) - can be used in
dogs that have an allergic reaction, but should only be used as
directed by your veterinarian.
Muzzle - to minimize the risk of being bitten while trying to
help an animal that's in pain.
Pet carrier - to make sure your pet is safely restrained for
transport to the vet.
How do I know when I should immediately take my pet
to the veterinarian?
Naprosyn (anti-inflammatory drug) - toxic to dogs and cats
Onions - toxic to cats (who are more sensitive to it than dogs)
Pennies minted after 1984 - toxic and potentially fatal in dogs
and cats due to the high levels of zinc contained within them.
Potpourri oils/essential oils - toxic to dogs and cats
Tylenol - toxic and potentially fatal in cats - dogs may tolerate
low doses but cats are more sensitive.
Raisins - toxic in dogs (unknown in cats)
Xylitol - toxic in dogs (unknown in cats)
Bleeding:
According to Dr. Schoeffler, if the amount of blood loss is
small, you should be able to take care of it on your own by
applying direct pressure to the area with a clean towel for 15
minutes. If the animal is bleeding profusely, you should do the
same, but immediately get your pet to the vet, as severe
bleeding can be fatal. Many pet owners, especially dog owners
clip their pet's nails. If you cut into the quick, it will cause the
nail to start bleeding. Make sure you have a styptic stick or
powder nearby to apply directly to where it is bleeding. The
nail should stop bleeding within five minutes on its own.
Breathing Difficulty:
According to Dr. Schoeffler, there are some times when pet
owners should immediately seek their veterinarian's help.
Consider your pet's behavior - is it acting out of character? A
dog that's normally very bright eyed, active, and alert, but
suddenly becomes lethargic should be checked.
Consider the severity of the problem - if your pet is suffering
from a bite wound, blunt trauma, burns, its heart has stopped,
its breathing has stopped, it has collapsed (even if it
recovered) or it is choking, you should immediately seek
veterinary services.
How do I handle my pet who has just been hurt and is
in pain?
"Be very careful around pets that have just suffered trauma
and are in shock," warns Dr. Schoeffler. Dogs that are
normally very loving may bite out of fear or pain. When
readying your pet for transport to the vet, any movement may
cause it further pain, and you should muzzle it to minimize the
risk of being bitten. You can use a standard muzzle or fashion
one out of a clean towel or gauze bandages.
Poison:
Common household items that may be toxic for your pet
according to Dr. Schoeffler:
Anti-freeze - actually it's the ethylene glycol that is toxic and
usually fatal to all pets if not treated immediately. Some antifreezes have less toxic substances in them.
Avocado - toxic to birds
Chocolate - toxic to dogs and cats
Coffee - toxic to dogs and cats
Garlic - toxic to cats (cats are more sensitive to it than dogs)
Grapes - toxic and potentially fatal in dogs (unknown in cats)
Lilies - toxic to cats (unknown in dogs)
Any animal exhibiting distress or difficulty breathing should be
assessed by a veterinarian as soon as possible. Difficulty
breathing is different from noisy breathing. Brachyocephalic
breeds (animals with short noses) commonly have compressed
narrow air passages and long, soft palates which predispose
them to breathing problems. Classically, these dogs will have
noisy or open-mouth breathing, snoring, panting, and exercise
intolerance. Environmental factors such as stress, exercise, or
extreme temperatures, and some types of systemic disease
can intensify the signs associated with this syndrome.
Dr. Schoeffler cautions that if you have a brachyocephalic
breed and they exhibit noisier breathing than is typical or have
any exercise intolerance do not push them. Minimize stress
and exercise and move them to a cool room. If their signs
improve, you may be able to wait and talk to your veterinarian
about the problem at your earliest convenience; if however,
their signs escalate or they show any signs of distress, seek
emergency care immediately. Some long-term management
options include exercise restriction (especially when it is hot)
obesity prevention, and elimination of stress. Treatment of
severe cases or a crisis situation may involve hospitalization,
oxygen therapy, medications, assistance breathing, and
ultimately surgery.
Seizures:
When your pet is having a seizure, don't try to help it, other
than making sure that there aren't any objects nearby that
could hurt the pet. Time the length of the seizure and take
notes of what you're seeing so that you can describe the
seizure to your vet.
With pet first aid, you might just be able save your pet's life.
Dr. Schoeffler advises, “When in doubt, consult with your
veterinarian. You know your pet best. If something doesn't
seem right and you're concerned, get it checked out.”
Gently insert the bulb portion of the thermometer into your
pet's anus. It works best if you use a twisting motion. Insert
the thermometer about 1 inch in small dogs, and up to three
inches for giant breed dogs.
Leave the thermometer in place for 1-2 minutes. Then remove
it and wipe it with gauze or a cotton ball. Read the
temperature at the end of the column of mercury.
Clean the thermometer with rubbing alcohol and store it safely.
Normal Rectal Temperature
Dog 100° to 102.5°F
Newborn Puppy 96° to 100°F
If the thermometer would break off inside your pet, do not
panic. Do NOT try to retrieve the broken portion inside your
pet. Call your veterinarian and explain the situation.
BASIC FIRST AID INFORMATION
Things You Should Know How to Do
Q. How do I learn how to take my dog's pulse?
A. There are several areas on the dog's body where you may
be able to feel the pulse. A pulse occurs with every heart beat.
Sometimes, you can just place your hands low on your dog's
chest, near the elbow joint, and feel the heart beats. You can
count how many beats you feel in 15 seconds and then
multiply it be 4. That will give you the pulse.
A second place to find the pulse is high on the inner side of the
thigh. You will be feeling for the femoral artery. Place two
fingers on the middle of the thigh near where the leg joins the
body. What you feel is the 'femoral pulse.'
It is always best to use your fingers to feel the pulse. If you
use your thumb, and press too hard, what you feel will actually
be your own pulse.
The normal pulse for a dog ranges from 70 to 180 beats
minute. The general rule is, the larger the dog the slower
pulse. Puppies generally have a fast pulse, up to 220 beats
minute. Cats usually have a pulse of 120-240 beats
minute.
per
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per
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The pulse of a dog is not always steady. Sometimes, the rate
changes as the dog breathes in and out. The pulse will be
faster on inspiration and slower on expiration. This is normal
and is called sinus arrhythmia.
Q. How can I take my pet's temperature at home?
A. You will need a rectal thermometer to take your dog's
temperature. You do not need a special 'dog' thermometer –
you can use one designed for human use.
Shake down the thermometer until the reading is 96°F or less.
Lubricate the thermometer with some Vaseline or lubricating
jelly.
Grasp your pet's tail at the base and raise it. Hold it firmly so
your pet will not sit down. Reassure and talk quietly to your
pet during the whole procedure. This will help keep your pet
calm, relaxed, and holding still.
Q. How do I give liquid medications to my dog?
A. If your dog is not on dietary restrictions, your veterinarian
said that the medication can be given with food, and the dose
is small, the easiest way may be to mix it with a small amount
of canned food. It is best to give a small amount of the food
without the medication first. This lowers your dog's suspicion
index. It is best not to mix the medication in an entire meal,
since if the dog does not eat the whole meal, she will not get
the appropriate dose of medication.
If your dog will not take the medication in food, cannot have
food with the medication or the dose is too large, then it is
down the hatch.
Get the medication ready - shake the bottle if necessary, and
withdraw the appropriate amount of liquid into the dropper or
oral syringe provided by your veterinarian. Place the filled
dropper or syringe where it will be handy.
Call your dog to you in a happy voice. If you do not sound
worried or concerned, your dog will be less likely to feel that
way as well.
Take your dog to a convenient spot, and place your dog's hind
end against something so he cannot back away from you.
Some people have found they have better control if they place
the dog on a surface up above the floor. If you do so, make
sure you have assistance, so the dog will not jump or fall off
the table and hurt himself. The person assisting you should
hold the dog around the shoulders and chest.
Pick up the syringe or dropper. (If you are right-handed, use
your right hand.)
Using your other hand, gently grasp your dog's muzzle from
above. Tilt the dog's head back slightly.
Place the tip of the eyedropper or syringe into the pocket
formed between the dog's cheek and back teeth.
Slowly administer the medication. Give the medication in small
amounts with a slight pause between each portion. Be very
careful not to give it faster than your dog can swallow it. Do
not try to give all of the liquid at once, since this may cause
choking or vomiting. Your dog may spit out some of the
medication. If this occurs, do not re-administer another dose
unless you feel he spit out the entire dose.
Hold your dog's mouth closed, and have his head in a slightly
elevated position, which will make swallowing easier. Gently
rubbing or blowing on your dog’s nose may help stimulate him
to swallow.
TIP
You may want to practice first, using water instead of the
medication.
Wipe off any medication that got on your dog's face using a
soft, moist cloth.
Give your dog plenty of praise, and possibly a treat. This will
make next time easier. And remember, the more efficiently
you can give the medication, the easier it is on both of you.
Rinse the syringe/dropper with tap water and return the
medication to the refrigerator, if necessary.
Although pictures are worth a thousand words, seeing a live
demonstration is even better. If your veterinarian prescribes
liquid medication for your dog, have one of the veterinary staff
show you how to give it.
Electric Shock:
Puppies, by nature, like to chew on objects. Unfortunately,
many households have a number of electrical cords which may
be readily accessible to chewing pets. If a dog or puppy chews
a cord that is connected to an electrical socket, the pet may
receive a severe electrical shock.
What are the symptoms?
If a pet chews through the rubber coating of an electrical cord,
it will receive a severe shock as its teeth come in contact with
the inner wires. The dog will cry out when it becomes
'shocked.' Additionally, the mouth may have received a severe
burn, especially the roof and tongue areas. Following the burn,
the affected areas will become red and irritated. This may take
several days as the burned tissue dies and is sloughed off. In
more severe instances, the electrical current may travel into
the dog's body and cause damage to the lungs as well.
The damaged lungs generally fill with fluid (edema) within
several days following the electrical shock. Dogs with damaged
lungs from an electrical shock will have difficult time breathing
and may die if left untreated.
What are the risks?
Electrical shocks are always unpleasant and potentially life
threatening.
Any dog or puppy receiving a shock should be monitored
closely for several days for signs of burning and/or lung
damage.
What is the management?
Prevention is the best. If possible, do not leave cords exposed.
Encase cords in plastic tubing (PVC pipe) when possible. There
are 'pet proof' cords available which will protect the puppy
from shock if the puppy does chew the cord. Additionally,
bitter substances such as Chew Stop and Bitter Apple can be
sprayed on cords to discourage chewing. Unplug all accessible
cords if the dog is left unsupervised (we recommend puppies
be confined in a crate if they are not under direct supervision).
Summary:
Puppies and adult dogs that have received a shock must be
monitored closely. Various medications are available to
veterinarians to help manage lung and burn damage if present.
In all cases of suspected electrical shock, consult your
veterinarian. Proper management will be determined by the
extent or severity of the shock. The authors would like to
mention that children are also at risk of electrical shock from
chewing electrical cords.
Heatstroke:
Heatstroke occurs when normal body mechanisms cannot keep
the body's temperature in a safe range. Animals do not have
efficient cooling systems (like humans who sweat) and get
overheated easily. A dog with moderate heatstroke (body
temperature from 104º to 106ºF) can recover within an hour if
given prompt first aid and veterinary care (normal body
temperature is 100-102.5°F). Severe heatstroke (body
temperature over 106ºF) can be deadly and immediate
veterinary assistance is needed.
Dogs suffering from heatstroke will display several
signs:
Rapid panting
Bright red tongue
Red or pale gums
Thick, sticky saliva
Depression
Weakness
Dizziness
Vomiting - sometimes with blood
Diarrhea
Shock
Coma
What you should do:
Remove the dog from the hot area immediately. Prior to taking
him to your veterinarian, lower his temperature by wetting him
thoroughly with cool water (for very small dogs, use lukewarm
water), then increase air movement around him with a fan.
CAUTION: Using very cold water can actually be
counterproductive. Cooling too quickly and especially allowing
his body temperature to become too low can cause other lifethreatening medical conditions.
Do not muzzle your dog.
The rectal temperature should be checked every 5 minutes.
Once the body temperature is 103ºF, the cooling measures
should be stopped and the dog should be dried thoroughly and
covered so he does not continue to lose heat. Even if the dog
appears to be recovering, take him to your veterinarian as
soon as possible. He should still be examined since he may be
dehydrated or have other complications.
Wetting down your dog with cool water or allowing him to
swim can help maintain a normal body temperature.
Allow free access to water or a children's rehydrating solution
if the dog can drink on his own. Do not try to force-feed cold
water; the dog may inhale it or choke.
What your veterinarian will do:
Your veterinarian will lower your dog's body temperature to a
safe range (if you have not already) and continually monitor
his temperature. Your dog will be given fluids, and possibly
oxygen. He will be monitored for shock, respiratory distress,
kidney failure, heart abnormalities, and other complications,
and treated accordingly. Blood samples may be taken before
and during the treatment. The clotting time of the blood will be
monitored, since clotting problems are a common
complication.
Aftercare:
Dogs with moderate heatstroke often recover without
complicating health problems. Severe heatstroke can cause
organ damage that might need ongoing care such as a special
diet prescribed by your veterinarian. Dogs who suffer from
heatstroke once increase their risk for getting it again and
steps must be taken to prevent it on hot, humid days.
Prevention:
Any pet that cannot cool himself off is at risk for heatstroke.
Following these guidelines can help prevent serious problems.
Keep pets with predisposing conditions like heart disease,
obesity, older age, or breathing problems cool and in the
shade. Even normal activity for these pets can be harmful.
Provide access to water at all times.
Do not leave your pet in a hot parked car even if you're in the
shade or will only be gone a short time. The temperature
inside a parked car can quickly reach up to140 degrees.
Make sure outside dogs have access to shade.
On a hot day, restrict exercise and don't take your dog jogging
with you. Too much exercise when the weather is very hot can
be dangerous.
Avoid places like the beach and especially concrete or asphalt
areas where heat is reflected and there is no access to shade.
Move your dog to a cool area of the house. Air conditioning is
one of the best ways to keep a dog cool, but is not always
dependable. To provide a cooler environment, freeze water in
soda bottles, or place ice and a small amount of water in
several re-sealable food storage bags then wrap them in a
towel or tube sock. Next, place them on the floor for the dog
to lay down on.
BASIC FIRST AID INFORMATION
Keeping a Pet Emergency Kit
Since you never know when an accident will happen, keeping a
pet emergency kit handy in your car or home is a good idea. A
smaller kit could be used in the car. You can put a first aid kit
together yourself and buy the items separately, or buy one
ready-made. If you make one yourself, use a small plastic tub
with a tight fitting lid to store the following items:
Important phone numbers:
• Veterinary clinic phone number and directions to the clinic
• Emergency clinic phone number and directions
• Poison control center phone numbers
Equipment and supplies:
• Muzzle or roll of gauze for making a muzzle
• Magnifying glass
• Scissors
• Tweezers
• Nail clippers and metal nail file
• Styptic powder or sticks, Kwik Stop, or cornstarch
• Penlight
• Nylon slip leash
• Eye dropper or oral syringe • Cotton swabs
• Cotton balls
• Clean towels - cloth and paper
• Rectal thermometer
• Lubricant such as mineral oil or KY Jelly (without
spermicide)
• Disposable gloves
• Syringes of various sizes
• Needle-nose pliers or hemostats
• Grease-cutting dish soap
• Bitter Apple or other product to discourage licking
• Pet carrier
• Towel or blanket to use as a stretcher, another to keep your
dog warm during transport (some pharmacies and camping
outlets carry a thermal blanket)
• Cold packs and heat packs (wrap in towel before using)
• Stethoscope
Bandaging materials:
Dietary Preventatives:
• Square gauze of various sizes - some sterile
• Non-stick pads
• First aid tape - both paper (easily comes off of skin) and
adhesive types
• Bandage rolls - gauze and Vetwrap
• Band-Aids (for humans)
Nutritional support:
• Rehydrating solution such as Gatorade or Pedialyte
• Nutritional supplement such as Nutri-Cal, Vitacal, or Nutristat
• High sugar source: Karo syrup
Medicines*
• Wound disinfectant such as Betadine or Nolvasan
• Triple antibiotic ointment for skin
• Antibiotic ophthalmic ointment for eyes, e.g., Terramycin
• Eye wash solution
• Sterile saline
• Antidiarrheal medicine such as Pet Pectate
• Buffered or canine aspirin
• Diphenhydramine (Benadryl) for allergic reactions
• Cortisone spray or cream, such as Itch Stop
• Ear cleaning solution
• Hydrogen peroxide (used to make a dog vomit)
• Activated charcoal to absorb ingested poisons (consult your
veterinarian before using)
*Watch the expiration dates on any medication, and replace as
needed.
While you may not need all of the items, it is a good idea to
have some of the basics on hand.
HEALTH INFORMATION FOR YOUR DOG
Ticks
Ticks are a constant problem for dogs, especially if you live in
a warm, dry climate. Although it may seem easy to use an
arsenal of chemical products, there are safer ways to protect
your pet from ticks, and, in the long term, avoiding toxic
chemicals will mean a healthier pet. There are a variety of
natural tick repellents that are all worth trying. Ticks are a
stubborn problem, so when it comes to natural solutions using
more than one is a good idea.
Herbal Tick Spray:
Put a teaspoon of vodka in a small spray bottle and add two
drops of basil or Eucalyptus essential oil. Shake it until the oils
and vodka blend, and then add a teaspoon of vinegar. Mist
your dog's coat then rub it in with your hands. Essential oil can
burn so don't spray it near your dog's face. You can also make
a simple spray by cutting a fresh lemon into quarters and
steeping the quarters overnight in a jar of boiling water.
Give your dog a brewer's yeast tablet or add it to its dog food.
Dogs usually love the taste and will consider it a treat.
Brewer's yeast tablets with garlic added can be especially
effective. You can also give your dog fresh garlic, but give it in
small quantities as garlic can give your dog anemia. A splash
of apple cider vinegar added to your dog's water will make
your dog's blood more acidic and less appealing to ticks.
Herbal Tick Collar:
Put a few drops of essential oil on a rope collar. Try Lavender,
tea tree oil, citronella, geranium or eucalyptus, which are
effective natural tick repellents.
Allow the oils to absorb into the collar before putting it on your
dog and reapply the oils each week. The essential oils can be
applied to a bandanna as well and tied around your dog's
neck.
Bath Time:
After you bathe your dog, add 2 to 4 cups of apple cider
vinegar to the rinse water and rinse the dog thoroughly especially its neck paws and ears. Be careful not to splash
vinegar into its eyes because it can sting.
You can also add a small amount of apple cider vinegar to your
dog's regular shampoo for an extra dose of prevention.
Environmental Preventatives:
Talk to the professionals at your Garden center about
nematodes and establish some in your lawn and your dog's
play area where they will feast on tick larva. Diatomaceous
earth, made of finely ground marine organisms and tiny fossils,
is another natural environmental tick repellent. The powder is
safe for people and pets but is poisonous to ticks. Simply
spread the powder in your lawn and garden when the ground
is dry. Reapply after rain.
Why Dogs Have Separation Anxiety
We don't fully understand why some dogs suffer from
separation anxiety and, under similar circumstances, others
don't. It's important to realize, however, that the destruction
and house soiling that often occur with separation anxiety are
not the dog's attempt to punish or seek revenge on his owner
for leaving him alone. In reality, they are actually part of a
panic response.
Separation anxiety sometimes occurs:
• When a dog accustomed to constant human companionship
and is left alone for the first time.
• Following a long interval, such as a vacation, during which
the owner and dog are constantly together.
• After a traumatic event (from the dog's point of view) such
as a period of time spent at a shelter or boarding kennel.
• After a change in the family's routine or structure such as a
child leaving for college, a change in work schedule, a move to
a new home, or a new pet or person in the home.
Does my dog have separation anxiety?
Because there are many reasons for the behaviors associated
with separation anxiety, it's essential to correctly diagnose the
reason for the behavior before proceeding with treatment. If
most, or all, of the following statements are true about your
dog, he may have a separation anxiety problem:
• The behavior occurs exclusively or primarily when he's left
alone.
• He follows you from room to room whenever you're home.
• He displays effusive, frantic greeting behaviors.
• The behavior always occurs when he's left alone, whether for
a short or long period of time.
• He reacts with excitement, depression, or anxiety to your
preparations to leave the house.
• He dislikes spending time outdoors by himself.
Things you can do:
For a minor separation anxiety problem, the following
techniques may be helpful by themselves. For more severe
problems, these techniques should be used along with the
desensitization process described in the next section.
• Keep arrivals and departures low-key. For example, when
you arrive home, ignore your dog for the first few minutes
then calmly pet him. This may be hard for you to do, but it's
important!
• Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like
you—such as an old T-shirt that you've slept in recently.
• Establish a "safety cue"—a word or action that you use every
time you leave that tells your dog you'll be back. Dogs usually
learn to associate certain cues with short absences by their
owners. For example, when you take out the garbage, your
dog knows you come right back and doesn't become anxious.
Therefore, it's helpful to associate a safety cue with your shortduration absences.
Some examples of safety cues are a playing radio, a playing
television, or a toy (one that doesn't have dangerous fillings
and can't be torn into pieces). Use your safety cue during
practice sessions with your dog. Be sure to avoid presenting
your dog with the safety cue when you leave for a period of
time longer than he can tolerate; if you do, the value of the
safety cue will be lost.
Leaving a radio on to provide company for your dog isn't
particularly useful by itself, but a playing radio may work if
you've used it consistently as a safety cue in your practice
sessions. If your dog engages in destructive chewing as part of
his separation distress, offering him a chewing item as a safety
cue is a good idea. Very hard rubber toys that can be stuffed
with treats and Nylabone®-like products are good choices.
Desensitization techniques:
The primary treatment for more severe cases of separation
anxiety is a systematic process of getting your dog used to
being alone. You must teach your dog to remain calm during
"practice" departures and short absences. We recommend the
following procedure:
• Begin by engaging in your normal departure activities
(getting your keys, putting on your coat), then sit back down.
Repeat this step until your dog shows no distress in response
to your activities.
• Next, engage in your normal departure activities and go to
the door and open it, then sit back down.
• Next, step outside the door, leaving the door open, and then
return.
• Finally, step outside and close the door then immediately
return. Slowly get your dog accustomed to being alone with
the door closed between you for several seconds.
• Proceed very gradually from step to step, repeating each
step until your dog shows no signs of distress. The number of
repetitions will vary depending on the severity of the problem.
If at any time in this process your actions produce an anxiety
response in your dog, you've proceeded too fast. Return to an
earlier step in the process and practice this step until the dog
shows no distress response, then proceed to the next step.
• Once your dog is tolerating your being on the other side of
the door for several seconds, begin short-duration absences.
This step involves giving the dog a verbal cue (for example,
"I'll be right back"), leaving, and then returning within a
minute. Your return must be low-key: Either ignore your dog
or greet him quietly and calmly. If he shows no signs of
distress, repeat the exercise. If he appears anxious, wait until
he relaxes to repeat the exercise. Gradually increase the length
of time you're gone.
• Practice as many absences as possible that last less than ten
minutes. You can do many departures within one session if
your dog relaxes sufficiently between departures. You should
also scatter practice departures and short-duration absences
throughout the day.
• Once your dog can handle short absences (30 to 90
minutes), he'll usually be able to handle longer intervals alone
and you won't have to repeat this process every time you are
planning a longer absence. The hard part is at the beginning,
but the job gets easier as you go along. Nevertheless, you
must go slowly at first. How long it takes to condition your dog
to being alone depends on the severity of his problem.
Teaching sit-stay and down-stay:
Another technique for reducing separation anxiety in your dog
is practicing the common "sit-stay" or "down-stay" training
exercises using positive reinforcement. Your goal is to be able
to move briefly out of your dog's sight while he remains in the
"stay" position, and thereby teach your dog that he can remain
calmly and happily in one place while you go to another.
To do this, you gradually increase the distance you move away
from your dog. As you progress, you can do this during the
course of your normal daily activities. For example, if you're
watching television with your dog by your side and you get up,
tell him to stay and leave the room. When you come back, give
him a treat or praise him quietly. Never punish your dog during
these training sessions.
Interim solutions:
HLCC meets in a local park which shared by other people and
other dogs; therefore, from time to time new dogs will come
over to see what is going on or just to observe, and their
owners may be curious and want to ask questions. We think it
would be a prudent for us to have an action plan in place for
these situations.
Dog Behavior Basics
Because the treatments described above can take a while, and
because a dog with separation anxiety can do serious damage
to himself and/or your home in the interim, consider these
suggestions to help you and your dog cope in the short term:
The bottom line is to error on the side of caution and safety.
Things can get out of hand real quickly and usually before you
or anyone else can do anything about it. Dogs use their body
language to communicate, so we need to know as much as we
can about dogs body language.
• Consult your veterinarian about the possibility of drug
therapy. A good anti-anxiety drug should not sedate your dog,
but simply reduce his anxiety while you're gone. Such
medication is a temporary measure and should be used in
conjunction with behavior modification techniques.
1. Is a dog standing stiff legged, tail held high? If so, this is a
sign that the dog is either dominant or assertive. This could be
a dog that is going to pounce or explode on the other dog.
• Take your dog to a doggie day care facility or boarding
kennel.
• Leave your dog with a friend, family member or neighbor.
• Take your dog to work with you, even for half a day, if
possible.
What won't help:
• Punishing your dog. Punishment is not an effective way to
treat separation anxiety. In fact, punishing your dog after you
return home may actually increase his separation anxiety.
• Getting another pet as a companion for your dog. This
usually doesn't help an anxious dog because his anxiety is the
result of his separation from you, his person, not merely the
result of being alone.
• Crating your dog. Your dog will still engage in anxiety
responses in the crate. He may urinate, defecate, howl, or
even injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate.
• Leaving the radio on (unless the radio is used as a "safety
cue," as described above).
• Training your dog. While formal training is always a good
idea, it won't directly help a separation anxiety problem.
Separation anxiety is not the result of disobedience or lack of
training; it's a panic response.
©2002. Adapted from material originally developed by applied
animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver,
Colorado. All rights reserved.
Introducing Dog to Other Dogs
HLCC Guidelines
In our continuing effort to make HLCC a safe and fun endeavor
for both dogs that come to course or observe with their
owners or friends, we have decided to put together a
meeting/greeting procedure for our dogs and their owners
when a new dog approaches the coursing group, comes to
observe, course or to join the group.
2. Does the dog hang back behind you? Not wanting to make
contact? This is a sign that the dog is looking to you for
protection from a nervous situation (dogs always look to their
pack leader for protection) If you push this point here and try
and force contact you may put the dog in "FIGHT OR FLIGHT"
and end up with a dog fight.
3. Does the dog wag his tail and down in the front when you
bring the other dog out. This is an invitation to play and a
good sign.
4. Does the dog look relaxed with a gentle tail wag. This is not
a dog that is stressed.
A. First Meeting: Using Positive Reinforcement
At the first meeting we need to help the dogs experience
"good things" when they're in each other's presence. Let them
sniff each other briefly, which is normal canine greeting
behavior. As they do, talk to them in a happy, friendly tone of
voice; never use a threatening tone. However, don't allow
them to investigate and sniff each other for too long; however,
as this may escalate to an aggressive response.
After a short time, get the attention of both dogs and give
each a treat in return for obeying a simple command, such as
"sit" or "stay." If possible, take the dogs for a short walk and
let them sniff and investigate each other at intervals. Continue
with the "happy talk," food rewards, and simple commands.
B. Be Aware of Body Postures
One body posture that indicates things are going well is a
"play-bow." One dog will crouch with her front legs on the
ground and her hind end in the air. This is an invitation to
play, and a posture that usually elicits friendly behavior from
the other dog. Watch carefully for body postures that indicate
an aggressive response, including hair standing up on one
dog's back, teeth-baring, deep growls, a stiff-legged gait, or a
prolonged stare.
If you see such postures, interrupt the interaction immediately
by calmly getting each dog interested in something else.
For example, both owners can call their dogs to them and have
them sit or lie down, and reward each with a treat. The dogs'
interest in the treats should prevent the situation from
escalating into aggression. Try letting the dogs interact again,
but this time for a shorter time period and/or at a greater
distance from each other.
The less energy the dog has when it meets another dog, the
better. We need to be aware that all the dogs that are
coursing are in an excited state.
After a short walk with no issues, stop and let the dogs smell
one another. Don’t worry so much about the embarrassing
behaviors dogs do like butt sniffing. It’s usually best to let the
dogs do their thing. We all know that dogs gather information
about one another by sniffing.
2.
For this reason and others, we recommend you use a leather,
canvas, cotton or nylon leash - nylon can burn the skin - and
no more than 10 feet in length and no retractable leashes. The
potential dangers of retractable leashes are numerous for
owner as well as your dog. We do not recommend these
leashes because:


Dogs can become much more territorial - just like wolf packs.

Three dogs will develop a RANKING ORDER which includes a
pack leader. Every dog in a pack knows exactly what its rank is
within their dog pack. When dogs don’t have a strong human
pack leader, one of the three dogs will ALWAYS step to the line
and become the leader.


3.
When a new dog is added to a home every dog in that house
has to re-establish its personal rank within the new family
pack. Re-establishing rank is where dog fights come from.
By the way, the worst dog fights are inter-female dog fights
(females are fierce).
When fights begin in a larger pack (3 or more dogs), most of
the time all the dogs will gang up on the weakest dog.
Once a dog has been attacked it can be traumatized for life.
These dogs will always be leery of meeting new dogs. In fact,
once a dog has been attacked it will often become dog
aggressive and automatically want to fight any new dogs that
it sees.
A dog can love you and not respect you. Love and respect are
two totally different things.
Interestingly, most dogs don’t want to be the pack leaders.
When it’s forced on them they can get stressed and nervous.
Tips for Introductions
1.
Avoid small spaces. Dogs can attack if they feel
trapped and have nowhere to run. You also want to
prevent one dog from cornering the other.
If feasible, we will designate a meeting/greeting area at the
park.
Remain calm. Don’t use an excited voice. In fact,
don’t talk to the dogs at all. Talking gets them
excited, and you want to have the calm dogs. At the
same time, don’t allow too much tension in the leash.
It will just make the dog resist you and pull away. It
can also make the dog feel tense and more likely to
strike out.
4.
5.
They teach the dog to pull due to the constant
pressure from the lead.
If the handle is dropped, it will move toward the dog,
scaring him and causing him to run off, and possibly
hitting and injuring him.
If your dog runs and gets to the end of the line, it can
jerk him back suddenly, causing injury.
If danger is encountered, you cannot quickly reel the
dog in.
The line can cause entanglement and serious injury to
both dogs and humans
Introduce the dogs on neutral territory. Dogs
are territorial and can be possessive. It’s a bad idea
to introduce them in a home or yard where one lives.
Instead, introduce them in a park or parking lot
where neither dog will find it necessarily to guard or
protect “his” territory. Since we use the same park
each week to hold our coursing events, our dogs have
become to think of this as their area and maybe even
their park, which can be a potential problem.
Don’t use an excited voice. You want to calm the
dogs, not rile them up.
Don’t create tension in the leash. Dogs pick up
on our posture and body language more than we
realize. Tension in the leash or in your body posture
will only make the dogs feel tense. Be relaxed so they
will also be relaxed.
Note: Don’t use retractable leashes as they can create tension.
6.
Don’t overreact. Yelling will only make things
worse. If a fight does happen, it will always look and
sound worse than it is. Yelling and getting worked up
usually adds to the intensity. If the dogs do get into a
minor scuffle, don’t separate them right away. Take a
step back. This is the only way they are going to learn
to get along. Separating them will not teach the dogs
anything.
However, as we said before, the bottom line is to error on the
side of caution and safety. Things can get out of hand real
quickly and usually before you or anyone else can do
anything about it. If you feel uncomfortable, by all
means stop the play right then and there.
7.
Don’t let the dogs approach head-on. When
animals are challenging one another, they use direct
eye contact and a head-on approach. Don’t set up a
fight for your dog by introducing him this way to
other animals. Make sure not to allow other dogs to
approach your dog head on, and re redirect attention
to you instead.
Lure Operator:
For our efforts to be successful, we need to insure that our
dogs receive regular daily exercise and free runs whenever
possible.
HLCC Lure Coursing Safety Information
Lure Operator:
During the running of the course, the lure operator has the
authority to stop the lure if a hazard develops, or when a loose
dog or other object enters the coursing field. The lure operator
also may stop the lure at any time and for any safety reason
as the lure operator deems appropriate.
It will be the practice for the lure operator to step down on the
string as the lure nears the finish line to insure that the lure
does not accidentally run into the area of the lure machine and
pulleys, to minimize the possibility of line (string) burns and
scrapes while sliding in on the lure at the finish.
Every effort will be made to stop the lure before the first
pulley; however, this is not always possible.
Finish Zone Safety:
Stepping on the string will also minimize the stress to the
string as the dogs tug at the "dead" lure.
Handlers:
The course is considered finished only when the lure comes to
a complete stop, and it is the lure operator's responsibility stop
the lure safely away from the lure machine.
When the lure has stopped the lure operator will shout,
"Retrieve your dog(s)" to the handlers, and until this verbal
command is given, no handler may retrieve a dog or enter the
finish zone with a dog. This is to prevent possible injury to the
running dog or dogs, another non running dog or human.
Handlers and other coursers will not be allowed in the finish
zone until given the “Retrieve your dogs” call is given from the
lure operator. Furthermore, handlers and observers shall stay
out of the path of the running dogs as they come in on the
lure to avoid a collision which could result in injury to both
hound and human.
Once the dogs are safely retrieved by their handlers and have
moved away from the lure and the string and off the course
and the next runner or runners are at the start, the lure
operator will shout, "Hold your dogs" prior signaling he is
ready to the next runner or set of runners at the start.
Lure Machine Inspection:
Hawaii Lure Coursing Club
2011 By-Laws
Revised September 20, 2010
The lure operator will inspect the lure and lure coursing
machine for damage after each run and retrieve any pieces of
lure anywhere on the field which potentially could distract a
running dog during a subsequent course.
HLCC Code of Ethics
2010 - 2011
SECTION 1: NAME
The name of the club shall be: "HAWAII LURE COURSING
CLUB"
SECTION 2: OBJECTIVES
Hawaii Lure Coursing is an informal group of people who are
interested in and or participate in all breed lure coursing in
Hawaii. Emphasis is on fun, safety and exercise for the dogs in
a non-competitive environment. Members will:
1.
Properly house, feed, water and exercise all dogs
under their care and arrange for appropriate
veterinary attention and other health care if and when
required, and treat the dog as members of the family
with warmth and affection.
2.
Abide by all aspects of the Animal Welfare Act.
3.
Not allow any of their dogs to roam at large or to
cause a nuisance to neighbors or to those carrying
out official duties.
4.
Ensure that their dogs wear properly tagged collars
and will be kept leashed or under effective control
when away from home, and ensure that all dogs are
positively identifiable through micro-chipping.
5.
Clean up after their dogs in public places or anywhere
their dogs are.
6.
When engaged in events with their dogs, owners shall
conduct themselves in such a way as not to bring
discredit to the dog and should demonstrate good
sportsmanship at all times.
a)
Hawaii Lure Coursing is a group of people who are
interested in and or participate in all breed lure
coursing in Hawaii.
b)
Emphasis is on fun, safety and exercise for the dogs
in a non-competitive environment.
c)
The safety and well-being of the dogs running the
course and playing during these activities shall be
paramount in all Hawaii Lure Coursing Club meetings,
activities and events.
To do all in its power to protect and advance lure
coursing activities in the interests of the activity by
encouraging sportsmanlike conduct at all times.
d)
SECTION 3: NON-PROFIT STATUS
The Club shall not be conducted or operated for a profit.
SECTION 4: MEMBERSHIP
(a)
Membership: To be eligible, a person must be
eighteen (16) years of age or older and if accepted,
shall abide by the HLCC by-laws, the HLCC
Membership Code of Conduct and the rules and
regulations of the HLCC.
(b)
Membership in the Hawaii Lure Coursing Club is free.
(c)
We suggest you and your dog observe a lure
coursing event to see if your dog shows interest.
(d)
If you are interested in lure coursing, contact us to
arrange for an assessment of your dog’s level of
fitness and socialization.
(e)
If you want to run your dog, monthly adult member
contributions are $7.50 and students are $5.00 per
running dog.
(f)
This is so we can maintain the lure coursing
equipment and provide the items necessary to
support it.
(g)
You will also need to sign a HLCC Lure Coursing
Release Form.
respect the other members and HLCC by attending at the
designated time, which currently is 3:00 p.m. every Saturday.
This allows the dogs to get their 3 runs in without interruption
and be able participate in playtime. Some members wait all
week to just to run and socialize their dog.
SECTION 5: REJECTION AND TERMINATION OF
MEMBERSHIP
Any member or prospective member may be rejected or may
have their membership terminated, if in the opinion of more
than two thirds of the members, their membership in the
Hawaii Lure Coursing Club: a) would not be of benefit to the
club; b) that their dog has shown that he cannot be controlled
by his owner; c) is dangerous to other members or their dogs;
d) has displayed aggressive behavior to the point where he
could not safely play with, or be in close proximity of, other
dogs without seriously injuring them.
Therefore, a dog will not be allowed to continue to run if he
has shown that he is dangerous to other members or their
dogs.
SECTION 6: TERMINATION
Any member may resign at anytime for any reason.
SECTION 7: DISSOLUTION
Everyone leads busy lives and sometimes circumstances are
such that you just can’t get there by 3:00 p.m. – however, you
must show up no later than 4:00 p.m. - otherwise, you may
not be able to run your dog.
We operate in a community park so there will be
inconveniences, distractions and potential problems, but the
better we can minimize the inevitable, the less stressful,
smoother running and more enjoyable the day will be.
We encourage members to invite people and their dogs to lure
coursing to watch or for possible membership.
If you’ve invited someone to bring their dog to lure coursing,
please try to show up with them if possible, and either e-mail:
hawaiilurecoursing@gmail.com or post on the Hawaii Lure
Coursing Club on Facebook to let us know when they are
coming.
The Hawaii Lure Coursing Club may be dissolved at any time
for any reason.
ATTENDING THE LURE COURSING EVENT
We understand that things don’t always go the way they
should, but we really do appreciate the effort. Better yet, have
them contact us. We will send them a brochure and set-up the
evaluation date.
Not all dogs want to chase the lure and not all dogs will get
along in the group situation that is unique to the Hawaii Lure
Coursing Club.
Therefore, for the safety of the days coursing dogs, your dog
and the visiting dog, we would like to know a little about the
dog coming. This way we can anticipate and make
arrangements for them to be evaluated, watch the dogs run or
run their dog.
Please remember, considerable time and effort goes into
running this event each and every weekend, and we try very
hard to make it run as smoothly and safely as possible. Please
Hawaii Lure Coursing is an informal group of people who are
interested in and or participate in all breed lure coursing in
Hawaii. Emphasis is on fun, safety and exercise for the dogs in
a non-competitive environment. Lure coursing is for all breeds
of dogs. Times: Saturday 3:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.
HLCC Recommended Vendors
Dog Collars And Leashes
Presently, we are straight line running over a 150 to 200 yard
straight line course, but we hope to “course” the dogs in the
near future with straightaway’s and turns.
1. Help with setting-up and tearing down the lure coursing
equipment is very much appreciated.
2. Bring water for you and your dog. We do have community
water, but it is limited.
3. Bring Poop Bags.
4. Bring teats for your dog.
5. Bring our camera. We always need a photographer, so if
you are willing to take pictures we would really appreciate it.
6. If you bring human food (lunch, etc.) you may have to
share it with the other dogs. It's best to eat before you come.
7. Make sure your dog’s nails are trimmed. This is very
important.
8. Have fun. We know your dog is. Remember, this is your
club and as a member you are entitled to the best possible lure
coursing day we can have.
www.ShakaDogHawaii.com
Shaka Dog Hawaii for Tropical, fun and funky dog collars,
leashes, martingale collars, hound collars for Greyhounds,
Whippets, Italian Greyhounds and all dog breeds. Also, the
best place to get your custom made slip leashes for lure
coursing.
Shaka Dog Hawaii Custom Martingale Collar
HLCC Recommended Reading
Sighthounds Afield: The Complete Guide to Sighthound
Breeds and Amateur Performance Events. This manual
explores diet and conditioning, training for field and track,
overviews of all amateur performance events and how to
attend them to your best advantage, and basic running
procedures - including point requirements and titles - for field,
track, and open field hunts. Included is veterinary care, where
to buy good stuff, a complete library section, and pages of
important resources.
Shaka Dog Hawaii Slip Leads
Emergency First Aid For Your Dog
By Tamara S. Shearer, D.V.M.
A first aid guide for common emergencies
Shaka Dog Hawaii Custom Slip Leads
life. The Humane Society believes that compassionate and
responsible care toward animals develops compassionate and
caring humans, and that condoning violence toward animals
desensitizes people toward all living creatures - both animals
and people.
Sighthound Member Group
Shaka Sac
Rescue Information:
Italian Greyhound Rescue www.igrescue-hawaii.com
IGCA Rescue is a breed-specific organization dedicated to the
successful re-homing of Italian Greyhounds in need. Our
volunteers provide loving foster homes until an appropriate
forever home can be found for the IGs in our care.
If you have a Sighthound we want you! We are located on the
island of Oahu in Hawaii. We love our pups! We are hopeful
that you will find this place inviting and informative.
Injoy Lure Coursing Equipment
Whippet Rescue
Hawaii Regional Advisor/Lori Rose: 503-245-1393
Rescue takes in dogs whose first homes did not work out or
who have fallen on hard times for various reasons. Rescuers
take care of their medical needs, address behavioral issues,
and assess temperaments to be sure these dogs can be
healthy and happy pets. Most rescues are operated by
volunteers who specialize in one or two breeds with which they
have years of experience.
Saluki Rescue
e-mail: stola@gazehound.com
STOLA's mission is rescue and education for the Saluki dog
breed. The welfare of the dog is our primary consideration. We
rescue Salukis from kill-shelters or abusive situations, heal
their physical and emotional wounds and place them in loving,
adoptive homes. We work with breeders to rehome adult
Salukis who have been returned to the breeder. We provide
"rescue prevention" education and mentorship programs to
reduce the number of Salukis needing rescue. We also help to
relocate Salukis temporarily or permanently in case of natural
disasters. We find innovative ways to serve the people and
dogs of the Saluki community.
Hawaiian Humane Society
e-mail: hhs@hawaiianhumane.org
Hawaiian Humane Society teaches and promotes humane
treatment for every living creature in the belief that all life has
an intrinsic value and that each contributes to the quality of
Injoy Lure Coursing Equipment, under the continuing
leadership and determination of Tom's wife Trina and Tom's
trusted friend and business partner Jim Healy, continues to
provide high-quality, reliable and performance driven lure
coursing equipment. Injoy is simply the best lure coursing
equipment available today. Jim can be reached via e-mail from
this website or via phone at 802-899 4439. Trina can be
reached at 802- 425 3691.
HLCC Logo by Tanaka Designs
Graphic Artist Paul Tanaka
Contact Paul at 808-224-4794
e-mail at paulhtanaka@gmail.com
Glossary of Lure Coursing Terms
Course: Lure course patterns can vary from short, straight
courses, to elaborate pulley systems and extremely long
courses that zigzag and mimic the way a rabbit would run in
the field.
Coursing: This term refers to lure coursing.
Follow: Means in pursuit of the lure, not another dog or dogs.
hour period. It’s not a competitive race, but the dogs are
cheered on by the other coursers - and one dog is always
faster than the other, but both are always winners.
Wrapping: Many Sighthound owners choose to wrap their
dog’s legs with VETWRAP to protect them from possible line
burn and to keep the dew claws from catching the line. In
most cases this isn't necessary since the line is kept out in
front of the dog at all times, and we do not use a continuous
loop system.
Free Run: Running is best for building a good cardio system.
This is hard running, not running around in the back yard.
Overrun: Failure of the lure operator to maintain adequate
distance in front of the lead dog resulting in the lead dog
passing or overtaking the lure.
Hand Slipped: Releasing the hound by hand upon movement
of the lure.
Pre-Slip: The dog is slipped before the Tally-Ho is sounded.
Handlers (usually the owner) hold the dog at the starting line
and retrieve them at the finish line.
Lure: The lure used in lure coursing is made of plastic bags or
animal skins.
Lure Coursing:Lure coursing is a humane sport which
attempts to re-create the chase of the rabbit by the pursuing
dog. The "bunny" consists of a white plastic bag or animal skin
attached to a line that runs through a series of pulleys to
simulate the zigzag path of a rabbit on the run.
Lure Operator: Operates and starts the lure at the signal
from the dog owner, and makes every effort to keep the lure
10-25 feet in front of the dog at all times, and will stop the
lure anytime the safety of the dog(s) are in jeopardy. To run
the lure machine, the lure operator holds the button down on
the switch to make the lure go and releases the button to stop
or slow down the lure. The process of “jogging or pulsing” the
switch is the normal way that a course is run.
During the running of the course, the lure operator has the
authority to stop the lure if a hazard develops, or when a loose
dog or other object enters the coursing field.
The lure operator also may stop the lure at any time and for
any safety reason as the lure operator deems appropriate. The
course is considered finished only when the lure comes to a
complete stop, and it is the lure operator's responsibility stop
the lure safely away from the lure machine.
Lure Wise: Dogs with considerable lure experience are
termed "lure-wise" and may try to anticipate or "cheat" by
attempting to cut off the lure instead of trying to capture the
lure using follow, speed and agility.
Running Clean: Interfering with another dog during coursing.
Slip Collar/Leash:A slip collar is simply a wide leash with a
set of metal D rings. The collar is held in such a way that when
released, the dog is set free to chase the lure.
Straight Coursing: Straight drag coursing is a short sprint of
about 450 feet, run three times over the course of a three
HLCC 2011
Hawaii Lure Coursing Club does not make any warranties
or representations with respect to the content, quality,
accuracy or completeness of any information or materials
contained in the Hawaii Lure Coursing Club Membership
Handbook 2011 or our website, including but not limited
to: text, graphics, applications, databases, services, medical
information, veterinary information, dog training or behavioral
information or any other information or materials. Nor shall the
Hawaii Lure Coursing Club assume any legal liability for the
content, quality, accuracy or completeness of said information
and materials.
The information and materials contained in the Hawaii Lure
Coursing Membership Handbook 2011 and our website,
have been compiled from a variety of sources and, as such,
are subject to change without notice. In no event, will the
Hawaii Lure Coursing Club be liable for any damages,
whether direct, indirect, general, consequential, incidental,
exemplary or special, arising from the use of information
provided in the Hawaii Lure Coursing Membership
Handbook 2011 or our website.
HLCC LURE COURSING MANUAL FOR 2011 Printed By
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For printing information contact Mark Merriam at 808-5452679 or e-mail at print@alohagraphics.com AlohaGraphics
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