January 2014

keeping you and your boat safe on the water
Vol. 32 No. 1 | January 2014
In this issue
1everyday moorings What’s
Courtesyy David Wiggin
your weakest link?
6SEA CHESt of
horrors Are these
hiding on your boat?
Everyday Moorings
A quiet evolution over the past two decades has improved
two key elements of the mooring system. Have you given
your mooring a makeover yet?
M
by Beth A. Leonard
BoatU.S.
claim files show
that dragging
deadweight
or mushroom
anchors
account
for roughly
one-third
of mooring
failures
ooring systems are a lot like that old song about the thigh
bone connected to the knee bone. Most moorings consist of a dozen
separate pieces including whatever’s on the bottom, two or more
swivels, a half-dozen shackles, and a couple of lengths of both chain and line. For
your boat to stay where you left it, every part has to be up to the task, and the
whole will only be as strong as the weakest link. While most of the losses of boats
on moorings during hurricanes in the BoatU.S. Marine Insurance claims files
have to do with failure at the pendant, the part of the mooring lying between the
surface of the water and the boat, “everyday” losses – where the boat doesn’t stay
put in conditions up through gale force – are just about equally divided between
dragged moorings, failed pendants, and problems somewhere between.
But the files show that mooring and pendant failures can be reduced – and
maybe even eliminated – with new technologies and techniques that first began
to find their way into public mooring fields in the wake of Hurricane Bob in 1992.
These new technologies – and annual maintenance on all the pieces in between
– make it far less likely your boat will go wandering when the wind kicks up.
Continued on page 4
9 emergency signaling options The pros
and cons of each
2 Mailboat
12 Alert
14Small Stuff
16The Afterdeck
Seaworthy Top 10
Just got my Seaworthy magazine ...
Top 10 ... that’s my boat in #3! We had
just purchased her in August, moved
to that marina at Lake of the Ozarks ...
and wham! We met [CAT Team Member] Dave Wiggin and [TowBoatU.S.
Captain] Charlie Meyer that weekend
and really understood why BoatU.S.
insurance is far superior to others.
We still have this 36 Carver Aft
Cabin and enjoy it almost every weekend. We almost lost her.
Bob May, Bob’s No Wake Zone Radio
Clinton, MO
I enjoyed reading about your Top 10
claims in the October edition. I have a
suggestion that would reduce or eliminate all but one of those causes – sail
a steel boat. Because of the “Faraday
cage” principle, lightning goes around
a steel boat, not through it. Theft is less
of a problem because steel boats are
unique and stand out from the crowd.
With steel being many times stronger
and less brittle than fiberglass, steel
boats protect their crew while shrugging off collisions, allisions, and bumps
against underwater objects. While
steel boats ground just like fiberglass
boats, pounding against the bottom or
shore rarely causes extensive damage.
Of course the interior of steel boats
will burn, but not the hull and deck.
2
Seaworthy | January 2014
This could be critical if the fire occurs at
sea. My steel boat in Beaufort, North
Carolina has been hit 11 times by hurricanes; the last time, my boat came
through without a single scratch. I do
have to concede that steel boats will
sink just like fiberglass boats, maybe
even faster.
Lee Huddleston
Beaufort, NC
Having read your article on Top 10
claims, I note that you suggest that
we make sure we have proper fire extinguishers. The advice includes the
word “working.” This has always left
me wondering how to determine if a
fire extinguisher is working properly.
One establishment advised that I either
bring the extinguisher in so that it
could be recharged or simply replace it
after a year or two. I also have a halon
system on my boat and I have learned
the only way to check the extinguisher
itself is to weigh it. That, however, does
not assure me of the functionality of
the automatic setup. I would be interested to know if there are other ways
to make sure fire extinguishers are OK.
Even though the gauge shows in the
green, I am suspect of its accuracy.
Wayne Russell
Daytona Beach, FL
After checking with some fire
extinguisher manufacturers, we
thought the answers were useful enough
to share with everyone. See Alert on
page 12.
Winter And Heaters
I enjoyed your article on electric heaters
and winterizing. This area is all too often
ignored by boat owners as well as marina owners. The National Fire Protection
Association (NFPA) writes many standards that are adopted as laws in many
states and municipalities. Some of these
fire codes contain chapters that apply to
marinas and boatyards. Portable heaters
are covered in NFPA 302 (Pleasure and
Commercial Watercraft), NFPA 303
(Marinas and Boatyards), and NFPA 1
(Uniform Fire Code). NFPA 1 has been
adopted by 20 states and many other
jurisdictions.
NFPA 1 states:
“28.1.7.2.1.1 Heaters.
28.1.7.2.1.1.1 The use of portable
heaters in boat storage areas shall be
prohibited except where necessary to
accomplish repairs. [303:7.2.1.1.1]
28.1.7.2.1.1.2 Portable heaters used in
accordance with 28.1.7.2.1.1.1 shall be
used only when personnel are in attendance. [303:7.2.1.1.2]”
All three sections of the code state
that portable heaters should only be
used on a boat when the boat and heater
are attended.
Captain John McDevitt, NFPA 302
Watercraft Chair
Grasonville, MD
winter and ethanol
I have a 90-hp, 4-stroke Mercury on my
pontoon boat. I only get to use it about
once a month and was wondering if
I should disconnect the fuel line after
each use and run the gas out of the motor. I use only ethanol-free gas and I try
to keep the tank topped up.
Steve Smolcich
Fort Walton Beach, FL
You’re lucky that you can find nonethanol fuel. No, there’s no need to run
the engine dry after each use. If you do
store it for longer than normal, though,
it still needs to be treated with a fuel
stabilizer — any gas will deteriorate
after a few months.
Thanks for the article as it has happened
to me – ethanol affected the highpressure fuel gas pump internal to my
four-stroke Honda 130. I heard from an
engine mechanic who works on fuelwww.BoatUS.com/insurance
injected four-strokes that disconnecting
the fuel line and running the engine out
of gas until it stops is bad for fuel-injected engines. Any comment about this?
Richard J. Montaner
Arlington, VA
We’ve spoken to several industry and
manufacturer experts and they all
say that while disconnecting the fuel
line while the engine is running could
potentially damage the fuel pump,
it would take more than a few times
before it became a problem. After
all, people run out of gas sometimes.
Running the engine with the fuel line
disconnected once a year is not likely
to hurt anything. Call Honda’s tech
service department if you want to be
sure this advice holds for your engine.
Winter And Outboards
In your article, “Long Winter’s Nap”, in
the section on draining all the water, you
first say tilt the engine up to running
position. Next sentence you say tilt down
to running position. Which is it – up or
down?
Dave Evans
Shelter Island, NY
Sorry for the confusion. First we said
to “tilt to the upright running position,”
and then to “store it in the running
(tilted down) position.” What we meant
to tell you is to drain or store in the
running position (tilted down/engine
upright). The reason we specified
keeping it in the running position
during storage is that if it’s tilted up
and water gets inside through the hub
somehow, it can freeze and crack the
lower unit housing.
Anchor Chain Angst
I have owned a 185 Scout Sportfish
for a number of years. The boat was
equipped at the dealer with a coated
anchor chain. Great concept in that
the chain never scuffed the fiberglass
around the chain locker hatch. Bad idea,
though.
I recently had the boat anchored on
the backside of one of our remote barrier islands for a day of fishing. At the
end of the day, when I went to pull the
anchor, I pulled nothing but a piece of
chain, NO ANCHOR. The chain had
completely parted from the anchor
due to extensive corrosion that could
not be seen because of the factory
coating on the chain. Thankfully the
chain failed when the full strength of
the anchor, chain, and anchor line was
not required. Had I been faced with an
emergency that required my anchor, I
would have been in deep trouble.
If you have an anchor chain, have a
chain that can be easily inspected. Your
anchor equipment is only as good as the
weakest link.
Herb Aton
Charleston, SC
Road Warriors
The most important advice I always tell
my clients when shipping a boat any
highway distance is this one: Be sure to
drain exhaust systems including mufflers/lift mufflers before hitting the road.
Boats being shipped long distances and
over mountainous roads go uphill then
downhill. Any water left in the exhaust
finds its way back into the engine’s cooling system and into the cylinders.
Also, save big money by listening to
what a good marine surveyor tells you
when you prep your boat.
Norm LeBlanc Accredited
Marine Surveyor, SAMS
Danvers, MA
Another good reason to drain the
exhaust: If a boat is going to be
traveling through below-freezing
weather, the trapped water could freeze
and damage the exhaust. That’s also
why it’s so important to winterize the
boat before travel.
Hitched Again
Courtesy Herb Anton
In response to the letter in Mailboat
in the October 2013 issue, concerning the writer’s desire to require others to remove their hitches, I must
say that it took me at least half a day
and about $100 to add a hitch to any
of my four current vehicles. After
removing bumper covers and drilling holes in the vehicle structure, I
am NOT going to remove a hitch.
Perhaps the writer meant
to say hitch receiver.
Ed Wagman
Ocean View, DE
www.BoatUS.com/insurance
January 2014 | Seaworthy
3
Everyday Moorings, from page 1
On The Bottom
Until recently, mushrooms and deadweight mooring anchors – which can
include anything from an engine block
to rough-hewn slabs of granite a yard
or more across – have been the only
mooring options.
But both have serious issues. While
a deadweight anchor may gain some
advantage from suction in a mud bottom, in most cases its holding power
is completely dependent on its weight,
or, more exactly, on its submerged
weight. Cast iron weighs about 12.5
percent less in the water than out;
concrete loses nearly half of its weight
underwater. The reduced weight and
lack of shape to help the anchor dig in
to the bottom mean that it takes a very
large and heavy deadweight anchor
to hold a boat in place in gale-force
winds. As you would expect, in various
tests deadweight concrete moorings
Mushroom anchors can drag if the
chain wraps around the shank.
had a holding power of right around
half their dry weight (Table 1).
Theoretically, mushroom anchors
can provide substantial holding power
– up to 10 times their submerged
weight – if they are sufficiently buried
in mud. In most harbors, though, a
mushroom anchor doesn’t sink more
than a foot or so into the bottom, and
it is most often oriented pointing away
from the prevailing winds. A storm
that swings the boat into a different
direction will first pull the mushroom
anchor upright, and it may not reset
when it gets pulled back down in the
4
Seaworthy | January 2014
new direction. In a storm with a couple
of wind shifts, the chain can also wrap
around the shank of the mushroom
anchor, shortening effective scope and
decreasing the chance of it resetting.
Mushrooms tend to drag through silt
and bump along without digging in
to denser bottoms like clay or hardpacked sand. In tests, the holding power of mushroom moorings has varied
from 2.4 to 5.7 times their weight.
In the last year, all of the incidents
of moorings being dragged in the
claim files involved either mushroom
or deadweight anchors.
Weighted mushrooms are designed
to overcome some of these issues. A
weight at the top of the shank is meant
to tip them back on their side when they
come upright, and the sharper edge on
the bell-shaped bottom helps them to
dig in. We don’t have enough data to
evaluate their holding power, though.
In the last two decades, two alternatives have come into increasing use
and the evidence has been mounting
that these are substantially better at
staying in one place than the traditional solutions. While all the other
mooring anchor types rely on weight
or weight and embedment for their
holding power, helical screw anchors
are screwed directly into the seabed.
They have long, high-tensile steel
shafts with large screw threads on the
bottom and an attachment eye at the
top. A barge-mounted hydraulic device
is used to install them, and they work
in most bottoms.
Comparing the holding power of
a helix anchor to that of a traditional
mushroom or deadweight anchor
is like comparing a wood screw to a
thumbtack or paperweight. As Table 1
shows, helical moorings offer an order
of magnitude more holding power
than any of the alternatives. They’re
also significantly less sensitive to scope
to maintain their holding power, which
means more boats can be fit into a
smaller area. Helical screw anchors are
not completely failure proof, though.
They must be installed properly, and
ONLINE EXTRA
For links to moorings and pendants,
see this article on Seaworthy online.
they need sufficient scope to allow for
storm surge and waves.
Dor-Mor anchors look like upside
down pyramids with a point at the bottom and a short shank on the flat top.
The mooring lands point down and
buries deeply in mud, clay, or sand bottoms. The high center of gravity tips
the sharp edge down so that it digs in.
When the boat swings, the mooring
may shift, but it doesn’t come upright
like a mushroom. While nothing can
compare to the holding power of a
helix anchor, in tests, Dor-Mors had
almost twice the holding power for
their weight as the average of the mushrooms. Dor-Mors now account for
75 percent of the moorings at Woods
Hole, an anchorage known for a difficult bottom and strong currents. The
Coast Guard has been using Dor-Mors
for Aids to Navigation in areas subject to currents. Dor-Mors are more
expensive than mushrooms, but their
installed cost is similar to helix anchors.
At The Boat
When the wind starts to kick up,
in all but the most sheltered mooring fields, waves will soon follow.
The cycling loads from waves on the
mooring pendant can generate forces
anywhere from two to 10 times the
static load. If the wave period is four
seconds, the mooring pendant will
be subject to those shock loads over
20,000 times per day.
In these conditions, the mooring
pendant provides elasticity to limit
the shock loading that could destroy
the boat’s hardware or jerk the mooring anchor from the bottom. But that
same elasticity results in chafe and
may cause the pendant to part if the
line passes over any hard spot as it
lengthens and shortens. Normal chafe
protection can allow heat to build up
in the nylon strands, leading to a failure when the internal stresses cause
www.BoatUS.com/insurance
the fibers to melt. There are many of
these failures in the claim files. What’s
needed is a mooring pendant that provides a great deal of elasticity without
chafe – a seemingly impossible combination.
After Irene, Seaworthy reported on
a new mooring pendant designed to
separate the pendant into two lines, one
with high elasticity and one with, for
all practical purposes, no elasticity and
very high chafe resistance. Nantucket
Moorings, in conjunction with MIT,
developed Cyclone Mooring Pendants,
a two-part pendant with the upper part
made from New England Ropes STS-12
line coupled to a standard nylon doublebraid lower. STS-12 is made from
Dyneema fibers, which are incredibly
strong, abrasion resistant, and UV resistant. Soft eyes are spliced into each of
the two lines, and they’re then connected together. A second, longer Dyneema
line can be added to make a bridle and
act as a backup if the first Dyneema line
were to fail.
Dennis Metcalfe, manager of Nantucket Moorings, told us that in the
three years Nantucket Moorings had
This pendant uses chafe-resistant Dyneema on the boat, coupled with
standard stretchy nylon line at the mooring.
been using Dyneema, he had never
seen any signs of chafe. You can buy a
pre-made pendant or make your own.
What Lies Between
The anchor mooring and the pendant
are only two pieces in the mooring
system that makes up the mooring.
Traditional systems use heavy chain on
the mooring to ensure that the pull on
the mooring remains at an appropriate
angle even in strong winds, and lighter
chain above to reduce the weight on
the mooring pendant. Eye-to-eye swivels and shackles are used to connect the
two chains. The entire system needs
adequate scope for the type of mooring
anchor. Failures between the traditional
mooring and the pendant almost all
have to do with corrosion. The key to
preventing failures is a comprehensive
maintenance program that includes an
annual inspection of every element in
the mooring system.
Unfortunately, it’s not enough to
make sure your mooring is perfect. Your
boat’s safety also depends on the condition of every mooring upwind of you. A
professionally managed mooring field
with an annual maintenance schedule
and specific standards with regard to the
mooring anchor, pendant, and everything in between will reduce the chances
another boat will ruin your day.
Table 1. Comparison of breakout force for MOORING anchors
concrete blocks
Test
mushrooms
Dor-mor
helicals
BoatU.S.
Vineyard
Haven
Sarasota
Sailing
Squadron
BoatU.S.
Vineyard
Haven
Vineyard
Haven
BoatU.S.
Sarasota
Sailing
Squadron
BoatU.S.
Vineyard
Haven
Vineyard
Haven
BoatU.S.
Anchor
dry weight
8,000 lbs.
6,000 lbs.
3,000 lbs.
2,000 lbs.
1,500 lbs.
500 lbs.
500 lbs.
350 lbs.
650 lbs.
Various sizes
Breakout
force
4,000 lbs.
3,200 lbs.
2,100 lbs.
800 lbs.
800 lbs.
1,200 lbs.
1,700 lbs.
2,000 lbs.
4,500 lbs.
10,000 20,800 lbs.
0.5
0.5
0.7
0.4
0.5
2.4
3.4
5.7
6.9
Holding
Power*
BoatU.S. – 1995 BoatU.S. Insurance pull-test conducted by BoatU.S., MIT, and Cruising World in Newport, RI
Vineyard Haven – Test performed at Vineyard Haven, MA by Helix Moorings with harbormasters, marine writers, and BoatU.S. in attendance
Sarasota Sailing Squadron – 2007 Practical Sailor test conducted at the Sarasota Sailing Squadron
*Holding power is defined as breakout force/anchor dry weight and represents the pounds of force the mooring can hold per pound of anchor dry weight
www.BoatUS.com/insurance
January 2014 | Seaworthy
5
Capt. Frank’s Sea Chest of Horrors
Don’t let the sleeping dogs lie aboard your boat this winter
by Frank Lanier
W
hile the old axiom “Let sleeping dogs
lie,” may be sage advice when dealing with
rottweilers, as a marine surveyor I can tell you
it’s definitely not the attitude to have with regard to boat
maintenance. The various systems aboard your boat won’t
continue working flawlessly without proper upkeep, and
an “out of sight, out of mind” maintenance philosophy will
quickly transform the feng shui of your floating Shangri-la
into a black hole of frustration and financial woe.
Most all boats have sleeping dogs and winter is the perfect time to inspect your vessel before they have a chance
to wake up and take a bite out of the captain’s quarters. To
visually assist in your mission to identify and head off potential problems, hop on board, buckle in, and keep your
arms and legs inside the car at all times as we take a ride
through the cavalcade of maritime perversions I like to call
“Capt. Frank’s Sea Chest of Horrors.” All the more shocking
because they’re true!
1
Here,
sailor’s
ingenuity
has once again reared
its hoary old head in
an effort to sink yet
another vessel. The
handle of the gate
valve controlling the
bilge manifold has
broken off and been
replaced with that venerable standby, locking pliers. Aside
from the damage this inflicts to the valve’s stem, chances are
the pliers will be “borrowed” by a crewmember for some
other important task and never returned – a fact most
likely discovered when the valve needs to be closed in a
hurry. Gate valves are not recommended for use onboard,
particularly in below-the-waterline applications. Their internal mechanisms are prone to corrosion-induced failures
and they give no visual indication of whether they’re open
or closed as does a true seacock. Worse still, the valve can
fail to completely close if they become jammed with trash
or debris, allowing water to enter the vessel even after the
owner thinks the valve is closed.
6
Seaworthy | January 2014
2
Cracked
plastic
thrUhull fittings are a
common problem,
as a walk through
pretty much any
boatyard will bear
out. Ultraviolet
light is the main
culprit and while different brands vary widely in their susceptibility to UV damage, some are so poorly made they
can fail within the first year. Plastic thru-hulls typically fail
where the body of the fitting joins the outer flange, resulting
first in a crack and eventually in the outer flange breaking
away completely (both shown in the accompanying photo).
Once the flange shears off, there’s nothing left to keep
the thru-hull in place, meaning it’ll eventually be pulled
inboard, leaving a gaping hole in its place. If located near
the waterline, such a hole can reduce the vessel’s effective
freeboard from feet to inches, meaning a boat needs only
to settle slightly before it begins to take on water and sink.
Plastic fittings should be inspected at least annually. If you
find one fitting that’s bad and the others are of the same vintage, play it safe and replace them all.
3
It took
me a few
moments
to figure out just
what it was about
this thru-hull
installation that
gave me the willies. Do you see it
– or rather, what
don’t you see? At
first I thought it
was the gate valve
(which I’m not overly fond of to begin with, especially in
below-the-waterline applications such as this). Then it hit
me – there are no hose clamps! The only thing holding the
thru-hull, seacock, and hose together are a few pieces of
foam PVC pipe insulation and a prayer.
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switch to pressurize the line. Note the pressure gauge reading, then close the tank valve – the gauge reading should
remain constant for at least three minutes. If the pressure
drops, you have a leak (or leaks), which must be found and
corrected prior to use. Leaks will typically be found at fittings and connections, although they can occur anywhere
in the system due to chafe or physical damage to supply
lines or other system components. Use leak detection fluid
or a detergent solution to locate leaks. Don’t use solutions
containing ammonia (it attacks brass fittings) and unless
you want top billing at the Darwin Awards website, never
use a lighter to check for leaks.
5
Backup bilge pumps are always a good idea;
however, there are a few installation points to consider to ensure they work properly when needed.
Backup pumps should be mounted and configured to turn
on when the bilge-water level reaches around four to six
inches above the turn-on point for the primary pump. This
prevents the backup pump from resting in the normal accumulation of bilge water, where it can become clogged with
sludge and debris and seize from disuse. Unlike the installation shown, a better option would be to mount the backup
pump just below or at the same level as its float switch
(shown by the arrow).
6
4
Can you spot the problems with this LPG installation? They include an unsecured cylinder, no shutoff valve operable from the vicinity of the LPG appliance, and no pressure gauge. Without a pressure gauge, you
cannot conduct leak-down tests, a simple way to check the
“health” of your LPG system that should be done on a regular basis (at least monthly). To conduct a leak-down test,
make sure the tank valve is open and turn on the solenoid
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What, I hear you
say, can possibly go
wrong with cockpit
drains? The water disappears
and everybody’s happy,
right? Let’s say your boat
was manufactured in 1980,
a realistic example as there
are still plenty of vessels
from that era out and about.
If the cockpit drain hoses
are original (and there’s a
good chance they are), it
means the safety of you
and your vessel hinges on a
33-year-old piece of hose.
All hose has a finite lifespan
and should be inspected
and replaced on a regularly
scheduled basis (as per manufacturer recommendations)
regardless of appearance.
Recommended replacement
time frames vary between
hose manufacturers, but 10
years is commonly quoted.
January 2014 | Seaworthy
7
7
Swivels are installed between anchor and
rode to prevent twisting (particularly with all chain
rodes); however, many boaters are unaware they can
be installed incorrectly. The jaw fitting of the swivel must be
attached to the chain, not the anchor shank, with the swivel
eye attached to the anchor shank, utilizing an anchor shackle. When the jaw fitting is attached to the anchor shank, as
shown here, it will bind and could fail as the vessel sheers at
anchor. The swivel itself should be drop forged (not screwed,
riveted, or welded together), and the largest size that fits the
chain link without binding should be used.
9
This photo shows the exhaust outlet for a generator that, according to the owner, had failed a number of years before and been removed. Rather than
properly capping or removing the now unused thru-hull, the
owner chose to simply do nothing, effectively reducing the
vessel’s freeboard (and safety margin against sinking) from
roughly three feet to three inches.
10
8
No amount of pumps can overcome a bilge
choked with trash and debris. Periodic bilge cleaning
is a fact of life with older vessels, but even new boats
can be littered with wood shavings, bits of fiberglass, globs
of adhesives, and other construction trash that can plug up a
pump. Oil in the bilge is just as bad; it combines with dirt to
form sludge, a thick gooey material that can clog pumps and
prevent automatic float switches from operating properly.
And, of course, discharging that oil overboard is bad for the
environment and the hefty fines are bad for your wallet.
8
Seaworthy | January 2014
Here we have a cracked and severely corroded exhaust riser for a small diesel engine on
a 30-foot sailboat. If it’s this bad on the outside,
just imagine what the inside looks like — that swollen and
corroded fuel shut off control line resting against the riser
isn’t looking too good, either. Engine manifolds and exhaust
risers should be periodically removed, pressure tested, and
fully inspected for corrosion and clogging, as failure here
can easily damage the engine or, if water gets into the cylinders, destroy the engine completely. This should be considered standard maintenance, particularly with boats used in
saltwater. How often depends on vessel location and use;
however, four years is typically quoted (more frequently depending on riser age).
Frank Lanier is a SAMS Accredited Marine Surveyor with over
30 years of experience in the marine and diving industry. He
holds a 100GT master’s license, and has captained and maintained many different types of vessels.
www.BoatUS.com/insurance
Cell Phone
The Pros Your
Emergency Signaling Options
When you need to make a call for help, you want to be
100 percent certain that call will go through
by Lenny Rudow
I
n the middle of the summer of 1899, the barkentine Priscilla foundered
on the shoals off North Carolina’s Outer Banks. With no way to call for help,
the 10 men onboard were in imminent danger, but luckily, a beach patrol
on horseback from the Gull Shoal Lifesaving Station spotted the wreck – and all
hands were saved. Flash forward to the winter of 2012. The 48-foot sailboat
Wolfhound loses all power and spins out of control in 50-knot winds and 20-foot
seas. But this takes place a solid 680 miles east of where the Priscilla met her
fate, and there’s zero chance of a lucky encounter with horseback-riding rescuers.
Someone onboard the Wolfhound presses a button. Moments later the Coast
Guard Fifth District Command Center in Portsmouth, Virginia, receives the signal from an emergency position-indicating radio beacon (EPIRB). Within hours
an HC-130 Hercules based in Elizabeth City, North Carolina, is circling above the
stricken sailboat. As with the Priscilla, all of the people onboard are saved.
Separated by 115 years of technology, the only things these two cases
share in common is that both vessels
were in imminent danger, and both
crew were successfully rescued. One
thanks to sheer luck, and the other
thanks to modern electronics.
The EPIRB is not, of course, a
completely new development. In fact,
EPIRBs have over 22,000 rescues to
their credit. Having been in use for
over three decades, however, today’s
EPIRBs are significantly advanced over
those of yesteryear. And just as
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importantly, the concept of sending a
signal through the air to call for help
has been thoroughly expanded upon.
Now, you can send out an SOS with
a wide variety of devices including
cell and satellite phones, satellite text
messengers, and PLBs (personal locator beacons). With choice comes the
need for informed decision-making.
And correctly deciding which of these
systems is best for you is only possible
with all the facts in hand. Here are
your choices, and the pros and cons
of each.
cell phone is,
without question, one of the
easiest and most
effective search
and rescue
(SAR) devices of
modern times.
With it you can
speak directly to SAR personnel, give
them position and situational information, and receive instructions. Modern
smartphones can also provide you
with GPS data and backup navigational abilities. And if you need your
hands free to keep your boat afloat or
render medical assistance to a passenger, you can activate an application like
the SARApp or ICE. And don’t forget
the BoatU.S. towing app, which sends
your position directly to the BoatU.S.
dispatch center (www.BoatUS.com/
towing/app).
The Cons Unfortunately, cell phones
remain one of the least reliable forms
of communications on the water.
Range is obviously limited. Even if
you always boat within sight of land,
they simply can’t be depended upon
to get a signal, especially in life-ordeath situations. Their batteries always
seem to run out when we need them
the most. On top of that, the Coast
Guard specifically requests that SAR
contacts not be made via email, which
is how some of the cell phone emergency apps are set up to work. Finally,
consider how vulnerable cell phones
are to water damage. And unlike on a
VHF radio, there’s no way to put out
a general call to anyone within hearing range. Even though it may be the
first thing you reach for in case of
emergency, you simply must never
rely upon a cell phone as your primary
form of signaling for help.
Continued on page 10
January 2014 | Seaworthy
9
VHF Radio with DSC
to make sure it’s properly interfaced
with your GPS to give position data
– something the Coast Guard estimates eight out of 10 boaters fail to do
– and it needs to be registered with
a Maritime Mobile Service Identity
(MMSI) number. MMSIs for domestic
use can be obtained from BoatU.S. at
www.BoatUS.com/mmsi
EPIRB
The Pros The VHF radio is just about
the most common form of emergency
marine communications around, and
with good reason: It’s simple to operate, communications go both ways,
and, with a properly installed DSC
(digital selective calling) radio, when
you hit the panic button, the USCG
will automatically get your exact GPS
position, they’ll know you’re sending a
distress call, and they’ll know who you
are. DSC radios retransmit any emergency signals they receive, so as long
as another boat with a DSC-equipped
VHF receives your transmission, the
effective range of a distress call can be
many times greater than your VHF
range. VHFs are also relatively inexpensive, easy to install, and virtually all
of the models on the market today are
rugged and reliable.
The Cons The biggest downfall of VHF
with DSC is the same as it is for all
VHF radios: Your range is limited by
the curvature of the Earth. Antenna
height plays a big role here, as can
atmospheric conditions. With an average fixed-mounted antenna on an
average pleasure boat, you can’t expect
a range much over 20 miles. Also, the
fixed-mounted VHF on your boat
probably depends upon your boat’s
electrical system for power. If you’re
adrift with dead batteries, the radio
won’t help one iota. Carrying a backup
handheld unit with its own power
source is always a good idea, but these
units have even less range, sometimes
as little as a mile or two. Finally, if you
have a DSC-capable VHF, you need
10
Seaworthy | January 2014
The Pros Thanks
to a proven track
record of high reliability, EPIRBs
remain a top choice
for sending out an
emergency signal
to SAR personnel today. Since
EPIRBs interface
with Cospas-Sarsat
international SAR
(search and rescue) satellites that
calculate your position via GPS, triangulation, or a combination of the
two, they are essentially unlimited in
range. EPIRBs are also equipped with
a strobe light for quick visual acquisition, can be activated either manually
or automatically, are required to float
and be completely waterproof, and can
be mounted with hydrostatic releases.
The Cons Despite excellent reliability
and a long history of saving lives, if
the EPIRB were perfect, it wouldn’t
have all of this competition. First,
consider expense. Bottom-of-the-line
models cost over $500, and high-end
units cost over $1,000. And it’s not a
one-time cost, since EPIRB batteries usually need to be serviced by the
manufacturer as they age, about every
five years. Less expensive units commonly aren’t GPS-equipped, which
expands the effective search radius
from a few hundred feet to two nautical miles. And EPIRBs cannot be
taken from vessel to vessel. They must
be registered to a specific vessel, so
ONLINE EXTRA
To find out how to interface
your radio and GPS see
http://www.boatus.com/magazine/dsc
you can’t legitimately use one unit for
multiple boats. But an EPIRB’s biggest
downfall may be its limited communication ability; it can send out a cry for
help with your location information
and vessel data, but that’s it. They don’t
receive any form of communications,
and they don’t have the flexibility to
transmit any additional data. You can’t
discuss emergency repairs procedures,
medical treatment, or any of the other
matters that could make the difference
between life and death in an emergency situation.
PLB
The Pros A
personal locator
beacon (PLB)
is much like an
EPIRB, in that
it sends out an
automated distress signal to the
Cospas-Sarsat
satellites with an essentially unlimited
range; GPS, triangulation, or both
are used to nail down your position.
They’re also smaller than EPIRBs, less
expensive (some can be purchased for
less than $300), and completely portable. They are small enough to be carried by crewmembers at all times, and
they have been used to locate crew in
overboard situations.
The Cons On the surface it may seem
that a PLB is a better choice than an
EPIRB until you consider the downsides of depending on these units. For
starters, they have half the guaranteed
battery life. Not all units have strobes
(though many do) and all require
manual activation. Finally, not only do
they suffer from the same limited-data
constraints of the EPIRB, they actually transmit even less data, since they
don’t include vessel information.
www.BoatUS.com/insurance
Satellite Messengers
The Pros Satellite
Messengers are a
relatively new development, with
the first (the SPOT)
being introduced
about five years
ago. But they’ve
developed rapidly
since then, with expanded capabilities.
Text messengers
use satellite communications to bounce a short text
message to an individual party or, in
times of need, to emergency responders. When you hit the SOS button,
these transmissions include your exact
GPS position in the data feed. These
units are extremely small (the size of
a cell phone or smaller), inexpensive
(some can be had for as little as $120),
rugged and waterproof, and are easy
to operate. Some allow for two-way
communications via an integrated
keyboard, some use Bluetooth to pair
with a cell phone and allow two-way
texting, and some allow only one-way
texting of pre-typed messages. They
run on either store-bought lithium or
rechargeable internal batteries, and
while operating times vary, can generally send out their messages for days at
a time.
The Cons Satellite Messengers use
commercial networks rather than
the Cospas-Sarsat system, so they
charge for airtime and are sold with
a monthly or yearly service contract
(ranging from about $100 to $500 per
year depending on service level). Your
SOS transmission does not go directly
to the USCG but to the GEOS Emergency Response Coordination Center,
which then ascertains the proper SAR
agency to contact. The GEOS track
record is good – they’ve assisted in the
rescue of over 3,500 people in the past
five years – but this does add another
step into the emergency-response process. Also, the different units’ capabili-
www.BoatUS.com/insurance
ties vary widely depending on the type
of unit and service you choose. While
some allow for two-way communications, others can only transmit, not
receive. And in some cases, they can
only transmit a distress signal.
HF Radio
The Pros For those planning to spend
a lot of time out of cell phone and
VHF range, HF (High Frequency)
radios – single sideband (SSB) or
ham – provide two-way, long-distance
communications and can be used to
contact rescuers directly. HF signals
can be transmitted for hundreds of
miles, and in the right conditions
can span entire oceans. Newer DSCequipped models offer the same
push-button emergency signaling
and retransmission of distress signals
from radio to radio as DSC VHFs. HF
radios are like party lines — which
means that someone will hear you in
an emergency even if it’s not the party
you were attempting to reach, and
they can then relay the message to
rescuers.
The Cons Ham radios cost about $800,
but they are dependent upon good
antenna systems and ground planes
to perform well so the installed cost
will easily be double that. A license is
required to operate a ham radio. No
license is required to operate an SSB,
but marine SSBs are much more expensive, starting around $1,500 with
an installed cost of $3,000 or more.
Transmission quality is dependent
on atmospheric conditions, and there
may be times when it is all but impossible to get clear communications with
the desired party. Finally, these radios
consume a fair amount of power so if
your ship’s batteries go down, the radio goes down with them.
Satellite Phone
The Pros For fast two-way
communications without
any limitations on the information that can be conveyed between rescuer and
rescuee, a sat phone is going
to be tough to beat. It allows
you to speak firsthand with
SAR personnel, continually,
from virtually any place on
the planet. As well as relaying location and emergency information, you
can communicate medical situations
(and receive instructions from specialknowledge responders) and any other
pertinent info. You can contact parties
outside the SAR system. Marine models are rugged and waterproof. Both
portable and fixed-mount units are
available, as are extra batteries. That
means you could take the portable
with you if you have to abandon ship.
The Cons Unfortunately, satellite
phones are not cheap. Most brands
start at around $1,000 (though at least
one model new to the market this year
has an MSRP of $500) and can cost
several thousand dollars. Worse, they
get a lot more expensive if you actually use them. You may have to buy a
monthly plan and with many of them,
you’ll also have to pay $1 or more per
minute of use. Plus, the Coast Guard
doesn’t have a 1-800-RESCUE-ME
number to call. Different areas are
covered by different regional Rescue
Coordination Centers, each of which
has its own emergency line. It’s not
hard to find these numbers and preprogram them into the phone but in
any case a sat phone doesn’t create
an idiot-proof direct link of units like
EPIRBs and PLBs. Finally, most portable sat phones have a fairly limited
battery life and talk time, which may
span just a few hours.
Our BoatU.S. Magazine electronics
editor, Lenny Rudow, is also an editor
for BoatUS.com.
January 2014 | Seaworthy
11
Extinguishing
Doubt
The time to know if your fire extinguishers work is not when you
are about to use them. This winter, make sure your extinguishers
are up to snuff.
Most portable fire extinguishers are nonrechargeable and contain powder that may compact
over time, which can make them
useless in an emergency. Once or
twice a year, remove your extinguishers from their brackets and
vigorously shake them to break
up the powder. If it’s been a while,
you may need to hold them upside down and strike the bottom
with a rubber mallet (don’t use a
hammer because it might chip the paint and allow the canister to corrode). If you can’t feel loose powder inside the canister, it’s time to replace it. Mounting the extinguisher horizontally will often delay the chemical from packing, but they
still need to be shaken.
Most portable extinguishers have a pressure gauge that
should also be checked at least
twice a year – the reading should
be in the green zone. If it’s not,
less expensive fire extinguishers
will need to be replaced. Some
more expensive portable fire extinguishers can be recharged if
the pressure gauge is no longer in
the green. Those types should be
serviced annually by a qualified
extinguisher company, who will
tag them with the date of service.
Also check for dents and corrosion, and make sure the nozzle
hasn’t gotten damaged. Nonrechargeable fire extinguishers
don’t last forever and have expiration dates, usually 12 years from the date of manufacture.
Fixed engine room systems that contain halon or FE 241,
should be inspected twice a year, and the canisters should be
weighed annually to see if they’ve lost any of their charge. If
so, they need to be serviced and recharged.
Cause Of Fire: Bilge Pump
You put a bilge pump aboard to protect your boat, and for
the most part, that’s exactly what it does. But every year
Seaworthy gets reports of bilge pumps smoking, melting,
and even starting fires. The problem is caused by a combination of incorrect fuse size and something called rotor
lock, a condition in which the bilge pump rotor can no longer spin because it’s jammed with debris or bilge scum, or
the bearings are seized.
Here’s what happens: A locked rotor causes the 12-volt
wires to heat up, which should blow the fuse. But a fuse
rated for more current than what the manufacturer calls for
may not blow even if the wires get hot. The hot wires create
even more resistance, which decreases the current flow in
the wires, preventing the fuse from ever blowing. Because
electricity is still flowing, the wires start to smoke and eventually glow red-hot, at which point they could ignite anything flammable nearby.
Many small bilge pumps call for a 3-amp fuse, but some12
Seaworthy | January 2014
times installers substitute a 5-amp fuse because they’re
more likely to have one lying around. It’s critical to install
the exact fuse size manufacturers recommend for use with
their bilge pumps – a fuse rated even one amp higher
could lead to a fire if the rotor locks. Also, make sure the
wire size to the pump is correct – too small of a wire can
also overheat without the fuse blowing.
www.BoatUS.com/insurance
Or rather, they do mix, too well. Gerry Peckham shared this
photo of the fiberglass fuel tanks from his 28 Bertram FB.
After having multiple fuel filter and fuel pickup tube clogs, he
decided it was time to replace the fiberglass tank with a new
aluminum tank. Upon cutting open the old tank, the damage
E10 (gasoline with 10 percent ethanol) was causing to the internal surfaces was obvious.
Independent laboratory tests sponsored by BoatU.S. Marine Insurance in 2006 confirmed that the resins used in some
fiberglass tanks were leaching from the tank walls, weakening
the tanks. The resin makes its way through the fuel system
where it sticks to valves and other internal engine parts. The
buildup of this sticky black substance has bent pushrods,
clogged intake valves, and ruined some engines. Affected engines may run rough, stall, or bog down under load.
Hidden Chainplate
Dangers
The majority of gas tanks on boats are made from either
aluminum or plastic. However, some older boats, mostly
high-end sportfishers, were built with fiberglass gas tanks.
On newer boats, some smaller, portable, and under-the-seat
gas tanks are also made from fiberglass. Though custom and
semi-custom yachts may also have fiberglass tanks, these
typically use diesel rather than gasoline, and so are not affected.
Anyone who owns a gasoline-powered boat and runs
on E10 should inspect the fuel system regularly to head off
E10-related problems. And if that boat has fiberglass tanks,
consider it a prime candidate for tank replacement.
older boats, like Ericson and Irwin, as
well as many of the Taiwanese-built
boats, have encapsulated chainplates.
As these boats age, the chance of water
leaking into the encapsulated area and
coming into contact with the chainplates increases. The chainplates can
Courtesy Dylan Bailey
Seaworthy has often warned of the dangers of crevice corrosion on stainless
steel chainplates, especially where they
pass through the deck and cannot be
inspected. As a boat ages, it is almost
impossible to prevent saltwater
from leaking down through the
chainplate cover. If it becomes
trapped against the chainplate in
an area with little or no oxygen,
it can lead to crevice corrosion
that will eventually cause the
chainplate to fail. Most riggers
recommend inspecting the parts
of the chainplates that can be seen annually and pulling them from the boat
for a complete inspection and possible
replacement every 10 to 12 years.
This kind of corrosion cannot occur
if stainless steel in oxygen-starved areas
stays dry. In the ‘70s and ‘80s, a number
of sailboat manufacturers began completely encapsulating the chainplates
in fiberglass to prevent water from
intruding and causing corrosion. Some
Courtesy Garry Peckham
Fiberglass And
Ethanol Don’t Mix
www.BoatUS.com/insurance
neither be inspected nor pulled without
destroying a great deal of fiberglass.
Some builders still use encapsulated
chainplates, though most have drainage
holes designed to keep water from being trapped against the metal.
As a quick search on the Internet
will show, failure of these chainplates
is far from uncommon. The chainplate above came from a 1987 Irwin
— crevice corrosion had succeeded in
penetrating halfway through the plate.
Luckily it was replaced before it failed.
Thermal imaging offers a window
into these hidden areas and may assist boaters in determining whether or
not water has become trapped around
chainplates. The cooler blue color at
the bottom of the image at
the right shows lower temperature below the base of the
chainplate that likely indicates
moisture.
If you’re in the market for
an older sailboat, find out
whether or not the chainplates are encapsulated and
weigh that into your buying decision.
If you already own a boat with encapsulated chainplates, you may want to
consider thermal imaging to see if they
need to be replaced. But if the boat’s in
its third or fourth decade, you’re probably better off just replacing them — as
painful and time-consuming as that can
be. You’ll find lots of descriptions of how
others have gone about it on the owner’s
forum of whichever boat you own.
January 2014 | Seaworthy
13
W
ith the 2013 hurricane
season officially behind
us, we here at BoatU.S.
have stopped holding our collective
breath. In May, when we were still
sorting out claims from Superstorm
Sandy, NOAA forecast an “active or
extremely active” season with a “70
percent likelihood of 13 to 20 named
storms (winds of 39 mph or higher),
of which 7 to 11 could become hurricanes (winds of 74 mph or higher),
including 3 to 6 major hurricanes (Category 3, 4 or 5; winds of 111 mph or
higher).” That compares to an average
year with a total of 12 named storms,
of which 6.7 are hurricanes including
2.7 major hurricanes. When Tropical Storm Andrea formed in the Gulf
of Mexico a few days after the official
start of the 2013 hurricane season and
made landfall in Florida on June 6, it
looked as if the season was, indeed,
going to be a doozy.
In fact, the 2013 hurricane season
proved to be among the quietest on record, with 12 named storms including
two hurricanes, neither of which had
wind speeds over 85 mph. Only one
other named storm made landfall on
the continental U.S. this season, and
Karen came ashore as a tropical storm,
not a hurricane as forecast. So how did
forecasters get it so wrong?
The original forecast released in
May was based on conditions that
looked perfect for hurricane formation. “These conditions include weaker
wind shear, warmer Atlantic waters
14
Seaworthy | January 2014
and conducive wind patterns coming
from Africa,” Gerry Bell, Ph.D., the
lead seasonal hurricane forecaster with
NOAA’s Climate Prediction Center,
said at the time.
But actual conditions were almost
the opposite of what had been expected. The area where Atlantic tropical
waves most frequently form had some
of the driest air since reliable records
began in 1970, effectively discouraging
hurricane formation.
The fact is that early seasonal hurricane forecasts are not very accurate.
In 2012, Dr. Jeff Masters looked at
“statistical skill” in forecasting Atlantic
hurricanes. His results, published on
Weather Underground, found that
NOAA’s and Colorado State University’s December hurricane forecasts
from 2002 to 2011 would have done
better had they simply forecast the
historical average. The August forecast, on the other hand, when seasonal
conditions have pretty much been
established, is more accurate than the
historical average 60 to 70 percent of
the time. Forecasters were particularly
unskillful at predicting how many major hurricanes would occur in a given
year. The bottom line is that hurricane
forecasting remains at least as much
black art as science.
The quiet 2013 season extended
for another year a record-long streak
without a major hurricane making
landfall in the U.S. It has now been
more than eight years since Hurricane Wilma slammed into Florida on
October 24, 2005. Researchers call it
a “hurricane drought” and worry that
“hurricane amnesia” may keep people
from responding to hurricane warnings or evacuating coastal areas. We at
BoatU.S. and, we suspect, those who
live in the northeast, are not suffering
from hurricane amnesia. As Sandy
demonstrated, it only takes one, and
that one doesn’t need to pack Category 3 winds to wreak devastation
over a wide area. After Sandy, we were
really hoping the major hurricane
drought would not come to an end in
2013. Now we’re all breathing again
– until next year.
S
peaking of Sandy, a year
ago we received a letter from a
policyholder in Connecticut.
John Milnes Baker wrote, “My Cape
Dory 25, Howkola II, was picked up
off its jackstands by the storm surge
at Rowayton, Connecticut and deposited about 50 yards away across
the road on a neighbor’s front stoop.
Fortunately my boat was solidly built
and withstood the battering with
only superficial damage.” Baker immediately called BoatU.S. and was
told that someone would get back to
him shortly. “I was dubious, to say the
least. I shouldn’t have been. CAT Team
member George Mansfield called me
and you’d think I was BoatU.S.’s most
valued customer … With all he had
to deal with, he still made me feel that
I was number one on his list … The
claims office was so efficient, I received
a check within a couple of weeks.”
That was one of hundreds of letters
we received in the months following
Sandy, letters that encouraged our
teams to maintain our high standards
of professionalism and responsiveness in the face of a seemingly endless
number of claims. We appreciated
every one.
That’s almost always the last we
www.BoatUS.com/insurance
Courtesy John Milnes Baker
hear about the boats that will live to
float another day. We’re all too familiar with the end of the sad stories, the
ones where the boat gets totaled and
we turn it over to liquidators – the fate
of way too many of Sandy’s victims.
So it was especially meaningful when
Baker wrote in again in September and
sent us some more photos. “I thought
you might like to know that my boat is
back at its mooring and in fact looks
better than ever,” he wrote. He may
have missed some of the 2013 sailing
season, but we’re glad to know he, and
many others like him, will be back on
the water in 2014 – despite Sandy.
S
o there you are, cruising
along in your $80 million motoryacht in the Med, working
on your perfect tan on the aft deck.
You’ve given orders that you will dine
in the Royal Malta Yacht Club in
Grand Harbour at 2100 and left the
crew in charge. Two hours later, your
captain comes to find you, clearly
nervous. “Malta should be visible over
the bow by now,” he says. “But it isn’t.
And there’s a suspicious-looking boat
approaching that’s trying to hail us.”
Just then, you hear the rotary beat of a
helicopter and see its insect-like profile
approaching fast.
www.BoatUS.com/insurance
You could be the victim of GPS
spoofing, and you could be in trouble.
Your GPS works by receiving signals
from multiple satellites giving each
satellite’s location and the time the signal was sent. Using that information, a
sphere can be calculated around each
satellite somewhere upon which the
GPS must be located. The GPS uses
trilateration to determine the intersection of the spheres from at least four
satellites and find its position. But the
high-frequency signals coming from
the satellites are not very strong. The
GPS can be tricked, or spoofed, by
stronger signals from a transmitter
designed to mimic the satellite signal.
Weak counterfeit signals can be synchronized with the genuine signals
and then gradually strengthened and
diverted from the actual signals, so that
the GPS is deceived into thinking it is
someplace that it is not. This is called
a “carry-off attack,” and it can be used
to take a vessel far off its course. Unlike GPS signal blocking or jamming,
spoofing triggers no alarms on the
ship’s navigation equipment.
In June 2013, a team of University
of Texas at Austin graduate students
led by Assistant Professor Todd Humphreys successfully spoofed the GPS
aboard the $80 million, 213-foot superyacht, White Rose, by broadcasting
a faint ensemble of civil GPS signals
from their spoofing device – a blue
box about the size of a briefcase – toward the ship’s two GPS antennas. The
team’s counterfeit signals slowly overpowered the authentic GPS signals.
“The ship actually turned and we could
all feel it, but the chart display and the
crew saw only a straight line,” Humphreys said. Spoofing the yacht cost
less than $3,000.
At least so far, it looks as if spoofing
is very target-specific — other GPSs in
the vicinity would experience a sudden,
suspicious position shift that would
give the game away. So, while spoofing
would work on any civilian GPS, you
probably don’t need to worry about
anyone trying to trick yours — unless
you happen to have an $80 million superyacht.
A
nyone who grew up
navigating with paper charts,
taking compass bearings or
sights, and using dividers or parallel
rules to find their position can’t help
but feel saddened by the announcement last October that, as of this April,
the government will be getting out
of the business of printing traditional
charts. But before getting too maudlin,
reflect on your own chart usage and
how it has changed. “The demand
for traditional paper charts has fallen
more than 90 percent in the last 30
years,” said Susan Shingledecker, vice
president of the BoatU.S. Foundation
and a member of the NOAA Hydrographic Services Review Panel.
But the end of lithographic charts
doesn’t mean you can’t still navigate
the old-fashioned way. NOAA is beefing up its Print-on-Demand charts,
available through private vendors; the
NOAA Booklet Charts, which cover
95,000 miles of U.S. coastline including the Great Lakes, are available for
free download directly off its website
(nauticalcharts.noaa.gov). In addition,
private vendors are bound to jump in
with innovative products that
combine the best of paper and
electronic charting.
January 2014 | Seaworthy
15
Courtesy Steve Mason
Seaworthy Magazine
BoatU.S.
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Everyday Moorings
In The Beginning ...
I
’m guessing you don’t know who Bill Oakerson is. Yes, if you’ve been insured with us for a while,
you might have noticed his name as publisher on
Seaworthy’s masthead year after year. Perhaps you’ve seen
him mentioned as CEO of BoatU.S. somewhere, sometime.
The fact is, there’s no reason for you to know who he is,
and that’s the way Bill likes it. But if you find your insurance policy easy to understand, if you enjoy Seaworthy, if
you’ve ever been helped by our Catastrophe (CAT) Teams,
if you’ve received exceptional service on a claim, if you’ve
called TowBoatU.S. to get a tow, then you know Bill Oakerson.
Bill wasn’t even 30 years old when he came to BoatU.S. in
1977 as an underwriter from Connecticut General. He knew
insurance, but he loved boats. In just three years, Bill had been
promoted to Director of the Insurance Division, a lofty title
that put him in charge of half a dozen people. But he didn’t
care about titles or the number of reports. He was too busy
shaping the future.
It was Bill who worked relentlessly to strip our policy language of every bit of legalese possible. He put in place our
claims handling policy and procedures and wrote our underwriting guidelines, and designed both to be tough but fair
while giving the benefit of the doubt to the policyholder. And
as he began to understand the treasure trove of information
lurking in our claim files, he also realized that knowing what
went wrong on boats would benefit boaters.
In 1983, Bill set up the Damage Avoidance Department and
put Ernie Braatz in charge of mining those claims and sharing the
results. The first issue of Seaworthy
went out that spring. That same
year, when Hurricane Alicia struck
Galveston, Texas, Bill (at left in
picture) could not sit in Alexandria,
Virginia while our policyholders
struggled to figure out where their
boats were. He took Ernie Braatz (at
right in picture) and a master salvor,
Mike McCook, and they flew down
to Galveston to help any way they
could. Ernie would be killed in a car accident a few years later,
and Bill would put Bob Adriance in charge of Seaworthy. Mike
would become a key member of our CAT teams, and Bill would
become CEO of BoatU.S. And the CAT teams and Seaworthy
would become two of the cornerstones of the BoatU.S. Marine
Insurance program.
If you asked Bill, he’d give credit for all of this to others
because that’s the way he’s made. But Bill has left his imprint
on every part of BoatU.S. By the time you read this, he will be
retired. But he will still be part of us. Because the biggest thing
Bill did was to instill an absolute dedication to our members in
the very heart and soul of BoatU.S. He taught every employee
that each member is special, each member deserves the very
best service we can provide. And he didn’t let us forget to have
fun along the way. If you’ve ever finished a call with BoatU.S.
and been left with the sense that we truly care about you,
you’ve spoken to Bill – even if you didn’t know who he was.
The BoatU.S. Damage Avoidance Program is dedicated to helping you enjoy accident-free boating.
Seaworthy looks at real claims and how they might have been avoided. For permission to reprint articles, email
Seaworthy@BoatUS.com
Publisher Michael Pellerin
Editor Beth A. Leonard
Seaworthy is published quarterly (Jan, Apr, Jul, Oct) by BoatU.S. Marine Insurance, 880 South Pickett St., Alexandria, VA
22304-4695. Subscription rate: $10 per year. Single copies: $3.50. Tel. 800-262-8082 x3276. Please submit address changes
by email to Seaworthy@BoatUS.com or you may mail to Seaworthy, 880 South Pickett St., Alexandria, VA 22304-4695.
Associate Editor Charles D. Fort
Graphic design Marcus Floro
Proofreader Regina D. Cruz
Letters to the editor can be emailed to Seaworthy@BoatUS.com or sent to Seaworthy, 880 South Pickett St., Alexandria, VA
22304-4695. We reserve the right to edit for clarity and brevity.
Circulation Nelo Karimi, Kristin Loyd
©2014 Boat Owners Association of The United States 880 So. Pickett Street, Alexandria, VA 22304
To get an insurance quote for your boat, call 800-283-2883