Oysters 101 – All You Need to Know About

Transcription

Oysters 101 – All You Need to Know About
Oysters 101 – All You Need to
Know About Oysters (Plus 10
Amazing Oyster Recipes
TABLE OF CONTENTS
WELCOME TO OYSTERS 101 ............................................................................................................... 1
What should you look for when shopping for oysters? ..................................................................... 1
Do oysters have a season? Is there truth to the saying that fresh oysters should be consumed
only in months with an "r" in their name? ........................................................................................... 1
How far in advance do you recommend buying oysters to serve at home? ................................. 2
What's the best way to store oysters once you bring them home? ................................................ 2
What's the best way to serve raw oysters? ........................................................................................ 2
What preparations do you recommend for cooking oysters at home? .......................................... 3
What are the most popular ways to eat oysters at restaurants?..................................................... 3
What beverages do you recommend serving with oysters? What's the perfect wine? Beer? ... 3
What are your favorite oysters from the West Coast and East Coast? ......................................... 4
What's the best way to convert an oyster-phobe to an oyster lover? ............................................ 4
Are oysters an aphrodisiac? ................................................................................................................. 4
A DOZEN OYSTERS YOU SHOULD KNOW ........................................................................................ 6
THE RECIPES .......................................................................................................................................... 12
Brigtsen's Oysters LeRuth .................................................................................................................. 13
Orange, Candied Onion, and Mint Mignonette ................................................................................ 14
Veal Chops with Morels, Wilted Lettuce, Oysters, and Garlic-Parmesan Sauce ....................... 15
Oyster Stuffing ...................................................................................................................................... 17
Grilled Oysters with Butter Sauce ...................................................................................................... 18
Oysters Dupont ..................................................................................................................................... 19
Oyster Po'boy........................................................................................................................................ 20
Scrambled Eggs with Oysters ............................................................................................................ 21
Scalloped Oysters ................................................................................................................................ 23
Oysters Rockefeller .............................................................................................................................. 24
PREFERRED CUSTOMER DISCOUNT .............................................................................................. 26
WELCOME TO OYSTERS 101
This is where you will find everything you need to know about one of the ocean's tastiest
bivalves. You can roast, bake, fry, or broil them, but slurping oysters fresh from the sea
is the best way to enjoy them at their peak freshness.
Learn everything you've always wanted to know about oysters, from how to buy to how
to shuck and eat them—plus, whether they really are the ultimate aphrodisiac.
What should you look for when shopping for oysters?
Only buy oysters that have closed shells,
because oysters with open shells are dead.
Look for shells that are tightly closed, with no foul
odors. They should be deep-cupped and evenly
shaped. They should also feel heavy for their
size, like fruit. Avoid any that sound hollow when
tapped.
By law, there must be a tag displaying when the
oysters were harvested. Ask to see it. You
should only buy oysters from certified waters, and always look for oysters that have
been out of the water for less than a week.
Do oysters have a season? Is there truth to the saying that fresh
oysters should be consumed only in months with an "r" in their
name?
This is no longer applicable. Cultivation methods
have changed, and oysters are good every
month.
Many oysters have a season when they spawn,
and during that time they are not pleasant to eat,
but they're not harmful, either. There is also a
type of oyster called a triploid, which has an extra
chromosome. It never spawns, and is in season
year-round. The "r" month is mostly a fairy tale
nowadays because there are so many different oyster varieties available now in the
United States and Canada that when one oyster spawns there are plenty of other ones
that aren't spawning.
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How far in advance should oysters be bought if you are serving them
at home?
Oysters should either be bought the day of or the
day before you are planning to serve them. East
Coast oysters have up to a two-week shelf life,
and West Coast oysters have up to one week.
But it is generally not recommended to buy
oysters that far in advance.
When purchasing oysters, a good rule of thumb
would be to buy oysters that are close to your
region. Oysters that are from surrounding areas
have been out of the water the shortest period of time.
What's the best way to store oysters once you bring them home?
Live (without shells removed) oysters should
never be stored in air-tight containers or bags
since they could die from lack of oxygen. It’s best
to store oysters in a pan, loosely covered with
clean, damp paper towels or cloths to prevent
them from drying out in the refrigerator.
Store the live oysters in the refrigerator, above
raw meat, or poultry, so juices don't drip on them.
Do not store live oysters directly on ice, since the melting fresh water may kill them.
Optimum storage temperature is below 40°F, but temperatures of 35°F or lower
(especially freezing temperatures less than 32°F) can kill oysters. Use an accurate
refrigerator thermometer to check and adjust the temperature of your refrigerator.
What's the best way to serve raw oysters?
One of the simplest ways to serve raw oysters is
on the half-shell, on crushed ice and on a
rimmed platter, and garnished with seaweed and
lemons.
Alternatively, oysters can be served on some
rock salt and fresh seaweed. You can ask your
fishmonger for the seaweed when you purchase
your oysters.
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What is the best way to cook oysters at home?
Broiling oysters is easy and fun. They can be
opened one hour in advance, and then right
before serving, broil them on the half-shell with
any flavored butter or topped with a spicy salsa.
You can also cook closed oysters on a charcoal
or gas grill just until they pop open, and eat them
with a little melted butter on the side. Whichever
method you choose to cook your oysters, they
are a fun food.
Baked oysters, similar to clams casino, are the
easiest to prepare at home.
What are the most popular ways to eat oysters at restaurants?
For raw oysters, the most popular topping is
cocktail sauce or on the half-shell, with a little
mignonette or cocktail sauce.
For cooked oysters, the most popular
preparations are oysters Rockefeller and fried
oysters.
What beverages are recommended with oysters? What's the perfect
wine? Beer?
Champagne can be the perfect marriage, but it is
not always necessary to serve expensive white
wine with oysters. Some find that a tall glass of
Spanish dry sherry is perfect with all shellfish,
especially oysters. Yet others find that a bottle of
Muscadet is a good choice. Other suggestions
include a Riesling from Alsace which is bone dry
and a suitable complement for oysters. You may
also want a Chardonnay, whether Californian, French or Australian, but in particular one
with the rich wood flavor of Napa or Australian wines. Remember that you are trying to
marry the distinctive seaweedy, salty and mineral tastes with which the wine will have to
compete.
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Beer and Oysters go great together. The key to enjoying your oyster dinner is finding
just the right beer to enjoy with it. Many kinds of beer work well with oysters. Porter,
Stout, IPA, and of course, Oyster Stout. Strong flavors work well to cleanse the palate
in between bites so that the fishiness of the oysters is not overwhelming. A good, clean
break in between bites is highly desirable.
What are the favorite West Coast and East Coast oysters?
West Coast favorites would be Kumamoto, Royal
Miyagi, Totten Inlet Virginica, Kusshi, and
Yaquina.
East Coast would be Blue Point, Pemaquid,
Belon, Montauk Pearls, Mermaid Cove and
Martha's Vineyard.
What's the best way to convert an oyster-phobe to an oyster lover?
Have them try fried or roasted oysters, and then
experiment with a raw mild oyster like Blue
Points on the half-shell.
Alternatively, offer them the smallest oyster
possible, perhaps a Beausoleil. It's small, thin,
and packs a lot of favor.
Another option for first-time oyster eaters would
be to serve the oysters with a little mignonette.
Are oysters an aphrodisiac?
Giacomo Casanova, the 18th-century Venetian,
reportedly ate dozens of oysters at a time to stir
arousal before his legendary trysts. And some
ancient cultures thought oysters resembled
female genitalia, leading them to believe they
imparted sexual prowess.
Yet after all these centuries, the science behind
the claim remains murky. Oysters are high in
zinc, and a number of studies over the years
have linked zinc deficiencies to impotence and
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delayed sexual development. But so far no major study has examined whether eating
an oyster has any direct impact on arousal.
One study that came close was conducted this year by Italian researchers. It found that
Mediterranean mussels contained high levels of two amino acids, D-aspartic acid and
N-methyl-D-aspartate, which have been shown to stimulate the release of sex
hormones in animals. The study, though intriguing, had one major flaw: its findings
apply only to mussels, not oysters.
But the oyster effect might be mostly psychological. If you tell someone that something
is an aphrodisiac, a lot of times they'll get aroused just thinking about it. The bottom line
is there is no strong scientific evidence that oysters can heighten arousal.
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A DOZEN OYSTERS YOU SHOULD KNOW
To be a full-fledge ostreaphile (an oyster lover) you can’t just pound Kumamotos or
Wellfleets all the time. You need to explore the full range of styles and varieties.
Different oysters, after all, work best as beer accompaniments, culinary stars, or exotic
curiosities. This alphabetical list of twelve prominent varieties provides a good
representation of the classic types.
Beausolei
Néguac, New Brunswick
Belon or European Flat
Provenance Varies
Beausoleils are farmed in floating trays in Miramichi
Bay, New Brunswick, which is about as far north as
you can push a virginica oyster (only Caraquet is
farther). Suspended just below the surface, gently
jostled by the waves, they never touch the sea floor.
Half the year they grow in floating bags near the
surface, enjoying as much warmth and food as the
Canadian coast has to offer. When Canada’s dark
winter sets in, they are suspended in deeper waters
to ride out the ice. Because of their carefully
controlled, rocking, uncrowded environment,
Beausoleil shells are always perfect. Not big—it still
takes them four years to reach a 2.5-inch cocktail
size—but well groomed, and so uniform they almost
look stamped out by machine. The white shells have
a classy black crescent. The flavor is refined and
light, like a Caraquet, but with a bit more brine, and
something of the yeasty warm-bread aroma you get
with good Champagne. This makes them the perfect
starter oyster. If I had a novice oyster eater in my care
and wanted to guarantee a successful first
experience, I’d order a dozen Beausoleils.
Belons are the rarest oysters in North America. More
rightfully known as European Flats (Belon refers to a
river in France that grows the finest), or Ostrea edulis,
Belons are the native oyster of Europe and the big
cousins of the Pacific Northwest’s Olympia, but they
are an entirely different genus from the rest of our
oysters. They act different, and they taste different.
Way different. We’ll get there in a moment.
First, take a look. Belons resemble the love child of a
scallop and an oyster. They are always roundish and
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relatively shallow-cupped (hence their nickname,
“flats”).
Inside, they tend to have a rust-colored mantle. But
forget the looks. What sets Belons far, far from the
madding crowd is taste. They are, quite simply, the
most intense, overwhelming, unforgettable food you
are likely to eat anytime soon. They are the Sean
Penn of oysters–scary, but you feel compelled to
keep paying attention. The French say that they have
a noisette (hazelnut) finish. I don’t know what kind of
Chernobyl-irradiated noisettes the French are eating,
but I never thought of hazelnut with a Belon.
Chugging iodine, maybe.
But that, of course, is if you eat them unadorned.
Don’t. They were made for lemon–and they make me
break my rule of never putting anything on great
oysters. Belons scream for a little lemon, which,
magically, makes all the iodine disappear, leaving
something beautiful and, frankly, indescribable in its
place.
Belons have weak adductor muscles and have
trouble keeping their shells closed, so they need to be
banded with rubber bands until shucking time). If you
see Belons anywhere, try them. It will be an
experience. And experience is always good–right?
Colville Bay
Souris River, Prince Edward Island
If you could eat any oyster from PEI, it should be a
Colville Bay. They are unparalleled oysters. Stunning
teardrop-shaped, jade shells let you know they are
different right away. Delightfully crunchy texture and
sweet meat confirm their excellence. A Colville Bay
starts off with medium salt, then fills your mouth with
nutty, popcorn-like flavors, and finishes with a
lingering floral lemon zest.
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Glidden Point
Damariscotta River, Maine
Kumamoto
California, Oregon, Washington, and Mexico
Moonstone
Point Judith Pond, Rhode Island
Glidden Points stand out on raw-bar lists for their
size, crispness, brine, deep cup, and rock-hard shells.
What you will notice right away is their weight. Hold a
Glidden Point in one hand and a different oyster in
the other and you will immediately notice the heft of
the Glidden Point. Both the shell and the meat have a
density that comes only from slow growth in cold
water (Glidden Points are grown forty feet deep in the
frigid Damariscotta, making them perhaps the
deepest- and coldest-grown oysters on the East
Coast). They are four years old when they reach
market size, unusually rich and springy. The shells
are a natty white and black. The greenish algae that
colors many shallow-water oyster shells can’t thrive at
the depths where Glidden Points grow.
The oyster that put the fruit back in fruits de mer.
Kumamotos are famously melon-scented, sweet, and
firm, with none of the bitter or muddy aftertaste that
makes some oyster challenging. Closely related to
the Pacific oyster, which also was imported from
Japan, Kumos stay small and deep-cupped, and are
revered by beginners and pros alike.
Nice, large oysters with full-bodied flavor and
unusually deep cups. Grown in Point Judith Pond, an
oval bit of loveliness on the Rhode Island coast just
around the corner from Narragansett Bay, they come
in classy evening attire: white shells with black stripes
and trim. The brine is strong, but not quite so
overwhelming as a Wellfleet, an Island Creek, or a
Damariscotta. What jumps out at you is that full body;
the taste fills your mouth with minerals and brothy
umami richness. Copper, iron, clay—it’s all there. In
fact, the stony, tannic flavors can make some wines
taste almost bitter; your best bet is something
exceedingly dry and simple, like Muscadet or Chablis,
or a martini. Get that right, and you will discover why
many love Moonstones’ fine, flinty flavor and long
finish.
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Nootka Sound
West Vancouver Island, British Columbia
Olympia
South Puget Sound, Washington
The finest of BC oysters, grown in the remote, oceanside fjords of West Vancouver Island, where the
wolves and sea lions and passing gray whales rarely
see a person. No roads run to Nootka Sound; only a
few intrepid kayakers manage to explore it. What they
find is a paradise of lush coastal rainforest, sandy
beaches, and incredibly diverse life, both in and out of
the water. Nootkas are advertised as intertidal beach
oysters, but the shells have all the markings of
suspension culture: a pulled teardrop shape, and
fluted, striped shells that look as though a watercolor
artist streaked them in purple and dusty rose.
Nootkas have very white meats and very black
mantles. Their flavor takes you on a roller coaster,
with brine up front, then the nutty sweetness of nori,
and finally a finish hinting at anise.
When an entire species of oyster is named for a
single place on earth, you can expect something
unique. You get it with Olys, which are no longer
cultivated anywhere but the Olympia area—primarily
Totten and Little Skookum inlets. This was the only
spot the native oysters were able to escape the
pollution and overharvesting that wiped them out
elsewhere on the West Coast. Olys all share an
unmistakable sweet, metallic, celery-salt flavor. Those
from Totten are said to be more coppery, while those
from Little Skookum are nutty and musky. All Olys are
tiny—it takes 250 shucked meats to fill a pint—but
they pack more flavor and interest than a full-sized
Pacific or Eastern oyster.
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Penn Cove Select
Samish Bay and Whidbey Island,
Washington
Rappahannock River
Topping, Virigina
Skookum
Little Skookum Inlet, Washington
Penn Cove Selects have something of a stranglehold
on the Most Beautiful Oyster competition. Three times
in the past several years they have won. The 2006
competition was such a slam-dunk that it was almost
embarrassing for the other oysters. One plump Penn
Cove Select sat there in its perfect filigreed shell,
simply vibrating with class and vitality. It mopped the
stage with the other fourteen entrants and received a
perfect score from many judges. Beach-cultured in
Samish Bay, then hung in the deep waters of
Whidbey Island’s Penn Cove to purge, Penn Cove
Selects are one of the quintessential Northwest
oysters, eternally popular. They always have a nice
size—four inches or so—gray-green shells, and the
crunchy freshness of a salted cucumber.
The Rapp is unique. It represents a once-preeminent
style of oyster, and should be tasted for that reason
alone. It is one of the least salty oysters on the East
Coast, thanks to its upriver home. You will be hardpressed to find a virginica with the Rapp’s sweet and
smooth flavor profile. Almost buttery, it is an oyster for
people with “no palate or a great palate,” as Ryan
Croxton says. Picture the sweet and savory qualities
of a homemade root-vegetable stock. The low salinity
allows an intriguing Blue Ridge minerality to come
through, and also makes it a better match for wine
than many oysters, and not just the usual high-acid
whites like Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadet. You won’t
find a better oyster for Chardonnay than a
Rappahannock River.
Little Skookum Inlet marks the farthest capillary of
Puget Sound. Fed by Lynch Creek, which is stuffed
with salmon each fall, it counts the surrounding land
as a much stronger influence than the sea. That is
one key to understanding Little Skookum oysters; the
other is the inlet’s shape. Little Skookum’s basin is a
wide, shallow U. It empties completely into Totten
Inlet at low tide and is one continuous shellfish bed
from shore to shore. Its exposed upstream mudflats,
warmed and moist, are a finer algae incubator than
any hatchery. When the tide returns, a carpet of
green and brown is lifted off the mudflats and pureed
in the currents, creating a thick, funky soup that grows
fat, buttery clams and oysters. As you might expect
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from an inlet so shallow and far from the sea, Little
Skookum oysters are not salty.
Totten Virginica
Totten Inlet, Washington
The two most famous appellations in south Puget
Sound are Totten Inlet and Little Skookum Inlet, and
since Little Skookum is actually a tributary of Totten,
the two often are thought of interchangeably. Both
have seriously algae-thick waters, leading to marketsized oysters in a year or less. But differences exist.
While Little Skookum is basically a creek bed that fills
at high tide, Totten is ninety feet deep in places and
much more a creature of the sea. It produces oysters
with the rich seaweedy flavor South Sound is famous
for, but a bit saltier and less earthy than Little
Skookum. Little Skookum oysters get first crack at the
intense brown and green mudflat algae that develop
at the head of Little Skookum, while Totten oysters
get a mix of those mudflat algae and ones that grow
in deeper water. Many believe the resulting oyster to
be the perfect combination of flavors—strong, but still
sea.
Taylor Shellfish also grows an Eastern oyster in
Totten Inlet. With the incomparable springy texture of
an Eastern oyster and the ripeness imparted by
Totten Inlet, the Totten Virginicas is a great oyster,
and demand regularly outpaces supply. Worth
seeking out.
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THE RECIPES
On their own, oysters a nearly perfect food. You can pluck them straight from the ocean,
shuck them, and slurp them down raw. Their sweet, briny flavor needs no complement.
That said, there are times when you want something more than unadorned oysters on
the half shell. For those occasions, we have 10 of our favorite oyster recipes for you to
try.
If you want to keep your oysters raw, you can pair them with a simple, vinegary
mignonette. We have a version made with orange, onion, and mint.
Oysters are great fried. Dip them in beer batter to make a crispy fritter, or bread them
with cornmeal and pile them on French bread with lettuce and tomato for a traditional
New Orleans po'boy.
For you New Englanders, oysters and Thanksgiving go hand in hand. Check out our
recipes for oyster stuffing.
Perhaps America's most famous cooked oyster dish is oysters Rockefeller. The creator,
Antoine's in New Orleans, carefully guards their recipe, but our version with an herbfilled roux and bread crumbs comes close.
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Brigtsen's Oysters LeRuth
Sweet crabmeat and shrimp enrich the stuffing of these broiled mollusks, one dish in a
pantheon of New Orleans cooked oyster recipes.
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients
2-1/2 cups unsalted butter
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 scallions, finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
1/2 small yellow onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped thyme
1⁄2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1⁄4 teaspoon celery seed
1 bay leaf
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper, to
taste
4 raw medium shrimp (about 5), finely chopped
1 tablespoon flour
1 cup heavy cream
2 ounces crabmeat, picked of shells
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Coarse rock salt, for pan
12 bluepoint oysters, on the half shell
1⁄2 teaspoon paprika
Directions
Melt the butter in a 2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat.
Add the garlic, scallions, celery, and onions then cook, stirring occasionally, until
golden, about 4 to 6 minutes.
Add the parsley, thyme, cayenne, celery seed, bay, salt, and pepper then cook until
fragrant, about 1 minute.
Add the shrimp then cook until just pink, about 1 to 2 minutes.
Add the flour then cook for 1 minute.
Add the cream and bring to a boil.
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Remove from heat and stir in the crab, bread crumbs, and cheese.
Transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch fluted tip then refrigerate until cold, at least
1 hour.
Heat the broiler to high.
Line a baking sheet with rock salt about 1/4-inch deep then nestle the oysters onto the
bed of rock salt.
Pipe the filling over the oysters and sprinkle with paprika.
Broil the oysters until the tops are browned, about 4 minutes.
Orange, Candied Onion, and Mint Mignonette
This fragrant sauce is a bright accent to briny oysters, but it's also delicious with clams,
steamed crab legs, and shrimp.
Makes About 1-1/2 Cups
Ingredients
1/3 cup cider vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
1 small red onion, minced
1 cup dry sparkling wine
2 tablespoons minced mint
1⁄2 teaspoon fleur de sel or kosher salt
2 (1-inch) strips orange zest, thinly sliced
crosswise
Oysters on the half shell, for serving
Directions
Bring the vinegar, sugar, onion, and 1/4 cup of water to a simmer in a 10-inch skillet
over medium heat.
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Cook until the liquid is evaporated and the onion is caramelized, about 20 to 25
minutes, then transfer to a bowl and let cool.
Stir in the wine, mint, fleur de sel, and orange zest.
Serve with oysters.
Veal Chops with Morels, Wilted Lettuce, Oysters, and GarlicParmesan Sauce
Use vin jaune, a semisweet wine from the Jura region of France, to enliven the creamy
morel ragù for this elegant veal and oyster dish. Marsala is a fine substitute.
Serves 4
Ingredients
5 tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces fresh morels, cleaned and trimmed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper,
to taste
1/2 shallot, minced
2 cups heavy cream
1/3 cup vin jaune
1⁄2 cup finely grated parmesan
1/3 cup whole milk
2 cloves garlic, grated
4 (10-ounces, each) bone-in veal chops
12 Kumamoto or other oysters, shucked
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 heads butter lettuce, cored, leaves torn into
2-inch pieces
1-1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1-1/2 teaspoons minced chives
Directions
Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat.
Add the morels and season with salt and pepper then cook until just tender, about 2
minutes.
Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the shallot then cook until the shallot is soft,
about 1 to 2 minutes.
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Add 3/4 cup of cream and 1/4 cup of wine then simmer until thickened, about 4 to 6
minutes.
Stir in the remaining wine and cook for 1 minute more then keep the morels warm.
Place the remaining cream in a 2-quart saucepan then simmer over medium heat,
stirring occasionally, until reduced by half, about 10 minutes.
Whisk in the parmesan, milk, garlic, and salt then keep the cheese sauce warm.
Heat the oven to 375°F.
Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over high heat.
Add the remaining olive oil then season the veal chops with salt and pepper.
Working in batches, cook until the chops are browned on one side, about 5 to 7
minutes.
Add all the chops to the skillet and flip onto the second side then transfer the skillet to
the oven.
Cook until the chops are browned on the second side and an instant-read thermometer
inserted into the thickest part of the veal reads 132°F, about 8 to 10 minutes.
Divide the chops between serving plates then keep warm.
Wipe the skillet clean and heat over high heat.
Sear the oysters, flipping once, until slightly charred, about 1 to 2 minutes, then divide
between the plates.
Melt the butter in a separate 12-inch skillet over the medium-high heat then cook the
lettuce until wilted, about 1 to 2 minutes.
Stir in the lemon juice, salt, and pepper then divide between the plates.
Stir the chives into the morels then spoon them around the chops.
If you like, use an immersion blender to purée the cheese sauce until slightly frothy then
spoon the sauce around the veal chops.
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Oyster Stuffing
This traditional New England-style stuffing is made with smoky cured pork and oysters.
Serves 8 to 10
Ingredients
11 cups 1/2-inch cubed white French bread
(about 14 ounces)
6 slices bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch
strips
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus
more for greasing the pan
6 shallots, thinly sliced
4 ribs celery, thinly sliced
40 medium oysters, such as bluepoints,
shucked (about 1 pound), with 1 cup of the
liquor reserved
1 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup madeira or port
1/3 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 tablespoons chopped thyme leaves
2 tablespoons chopped sage leaves
1/2 teaspoon Tabasco
1/4 teaspoon fresh grated nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper,
to taste
Directions
Heat the oven to 250˚F.
Arrange the bread cubes on a baking sheet in a single layer and bake, stirring
occasionally, until dried but not browned, about 15 minutes. Let cool.
Put the bacon into a 12-inch skillet then cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently,
until crisp and its fat has rendered, about 10 minutes.
Add 4 tablespoons of the butter and heat.
Add the shallots and celery, then reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring
occasionally, until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes.
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Add the oyster liquor, stock, madeira or port, parsley, thyme, sage, Tabasco, nutmeg,
cloves, and salt and pepper.
Bring to a boil over high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.
Scrape the mixture into a large bowl and stir in the bread cubes and oysters.
Set aside to allow the flavors to come together for 10 minutes.
Raise the oven temperature to 400˚F.
Transfer the mixture to a buttered 2-quart oval baking dish and cover with foil.
Bake for 30 minutes, then remove foil, drizzle with the remaining butter, and continue
baking until golden brown and crusty, about 15 minutes more.
Serve immediately.
Grilled Oysters with Butter Sauce
Grill these oysters over grapevine cuttings if you can get them.
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients
1 shallot, peeled and minced
1/2 cup white wine
8 tablespoons cold butter
1 teaspoon chopped fresh chervil
1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives
1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley
Salt
12 unshucked oysters
Directions
Preheat a grill.
Put the shallot and wine into a small saucepan and simmer over medium heat until
reduced by half, about 6 to 8 minutes.
Remove pan from the heat then whisk in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time.
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Return the pan briefly to the lowest heat if the sauce cools too much as you add the
butter.
Whisk in the chervil, chives, and parsley then add salt to taste.
Grill the oysters flat side up over hot coals until the shells gape, about 3 to 5 minutes.
Discard any oysters that don't open.
Pry off the top shells, keeping the oyster liquor (juices) from spilling, and cut the lower
muscles to release the flesh.
Arrange the oysters in their shells on a platter then spoon some sauce over each.
Oysters Dupont
Crabmeat, feta, and capers are broiled atop garlic-and-herb-dressed oysters in this
salty-sweet preparation.
Serves 2 to 4
Ingredients
1/3cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons minced mixed herbs, such as
basil, oregano, and rosemary
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Coarse rock salt, for baking sheet
12 oysters, preferably Apalachicola, on the half
shell
6 ounces feta, crumbled
6 ounces lump crabmeat
1-1/2 tablespoons capers
Chopped parsley and thinly sliced scallions, for
garnish
Hot sauce, lemon wedges, and toasted
ciabatta, for serving (optional)
Directions
Heat the olive oil and garlic in an 8-inch skillet over medium heat.
Cook until the garlic is golden, about 4 to 6 minutes.
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Stir in the minced herbs and pepper then let cool.
Heat the oven broiler.
Line a baking sheet with rock salt about 1/4-inch deep then nestle the oysters onto the
bed of rock salt.
Spoon the reserved garlic oil over the oysters and sprinkle with the feta, crabmeat, and
capers.
Broil until the feta is golden brown and the oysters begin curling at the edges, about 2 to
4 minutes.
Garnish with parsley and scallions then serve with hot sauce, lemon wedges, and
toasted ciabatta, if you like.
Oyster Po'boy
Freshly fried oysters seasoned with a mix of garlic and cayenne are sandwiched
between crusty bread and topped with crisp lettuce and tomato.
Makes 2
Ingredients
Vegetable Oil
2 cups corn flour
1⁄2 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1⁄4 teaspoon cayenne
Salt
40 oysters, preferably from the Gulf Coast,
shucked and drained
1⁄2 cup mayonnaise
1 loaf (about 20-inch long) soft French or
Italian bread, halved lengthwise, then
crosswise, lightly toasted
16 slices dill pickle
1 ripe tomato, cored and sliced
1⁄2 head iceberg lettuce, shredded
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Directions
Pour the vegetable oil into a heavy medium pot to a depth of 2-inches and heat over
medium heat until the temperature registers 350ºF on a candy thermometer.
Meanwhile, combine the corn flour, all-purpose flour, garlic powder, black pepper,
cayenne, and salt to taste in a wide dish.
Working in small batches, dredge the oysters in the flour mixture, shaking off the
excess, then deep-fry in the hot oil until golden brown, about 2 minutes.
Transfer the oysters to a wire rack to let drain briefly.
To assemble, spread mayonnaise on a cut length of bread, then put half the pickles,
oysters, tomatoes, and lettuce, in that order, on each bottom half.
Place the top halves of the bread atop the lettuce.
Scrambled Eggs with Oysters
Try making this version of the classic Tainan snack with Chinese celery, which is
stronger in flavor than ordinary celery. If you do, use half as much as the amount given
for celery below.
Serves 2
Ingredients
1⁄4 cup ketchup
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
1⁄4 cup plus 1⁄2 teaspoon sweet potato flour
1 teaspoon Chinese dark soy sauce
10 to 12 shucked small oysters
2 eggs
2 tablespoons lard
2 tablespoons finely chopped celery
2 stems (without leaves) cilantro, chopped
2 cups mung bean sprouts, heads and tails
trimmed
1 scallion, white part only, trimmed and
chopped
Freshly ground white pepper
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Directions
Put the ketchup, garlic, 1⁄2 teaspoon of the sweet potato flour, 1⁄2 teaspoon of the soy
sauce, and 1⁄2 cup water into a small pot and stir until the flour dissolves.
Cook the sauce over medium-high heat, stirring, until slightly thickened, about 1 minute.
Keep the sauce warm over the lowest heat.
Put the oysters into a medium bowl and toss with 2 tablespoons of the sweet potato
flour.
Rinse the oysters under cold running water then drain and pat dry with paper towels.
Put the oysters into a clean dry medium bowl then toss with the remaining sweet potato
flour and set aside.
Lightly beat the eggs and the remaining soy sauce together in a small bowl and set
aside.
Heat the lard in a wok over high heat until hot but not smoking.
Add the oysters, celery, and cilantro stems and stir-fry until the celery is just tender,
about 30 seconds.
Add the bean sprouts and 2 teaspoons of water and stir-fry until the sprouts are
translucent, about 1 minute.
Stir in the scallions, then pour the eggs over the oysters and vegetables.
Cover the wok and cook until the eggs are just set, about 15 seconds.
Season to taste with pepper then divide between 2 plates and serve with sauce.
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Scalloped Oysters
This Southern specialty is best made with small oysters and plain saltines.
Serves 6
Ingredients
Butter
1⁄4 pounds saltines
5 tablespoons butter (4 tablespoons melted, 1
tablespoon chilled)
2 cups oysters, shucked, well-drained, and
roughly chopped
3 teaspoons butter
1 cup cream
Directions
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Butter a small baking dish, about 8×8-inches.
Crush the saltines into small pieces with a rolling pin or the bottom of a pan, to fill about
2 cups.
Spread one-third of the cracker crumbs in the bottom of the dish.
Pour in half of the oysters and mix into the crackers a bit with your fingertips, then
drizzle in 2 tablespoons of the melted butter.
Repeat this process, ending with the last of the crackers.
Slowly pour the cream along the edges of the dish then dot with the chilled butter.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, and brown under a broiler for 3 minutes.
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Oysters Rockefeller
Oysters Rockefeller were created in New Orleans, at the legendary Antoine's. The
restaurant refuses to give a recipe, but we do know that neither bacon nor spinach is
involved. Instead, the oysters are topped with a roux full of herbs and vegetables, then
combined with bread crumbs and broiled until the bivalves are tender and a delicate
crust forms.
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients
Rock salt, as needed
12 bluepoint oysters, chilled
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 tablespoons flour
1⁄4 teaspoon cayenne
6 scallions, minced
2 ribs celery, minced
2 sprigs tarragon, stemmed and minced
1 bunch parsley, stemmed and minced, plus
sprigs to garnish
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper,
to taste
3 tablespoons fresh bread crumbs
Directions
Fill 2 ovenproof baking dishes halfway with rock salt.
Shuck the oysters over a bowl to catch their liquor (you should have about 1⁄2 cup),
discarding the flat top shells.
Loosen the oysters from the bottom shells with a knife then nestle 6 shucked oysters in
their shells into each bed of rock salt and chill.
Melt the butter in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat.
Add the flour then cook until smooth, about 2 minutes.
Add the oyster liquor then cook until thickened to a paste, about 2 minutes.
Stir in the cayenne, scallions, celery, tarragon, parsley, and salt and pepper.
Reduce the heat to medium-low then cook until soft, about 1 hour.
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Transfer to a food processor then add the bread crumbs and process into a smooth
paste, about 2 minutes.
Heat the broiler to high.
Place the paste in a pastry bag fitted with a 1⁄2-inch fluted tip then pipe the paste
completely over the oysters.
Broil the oysters until the paste begins to brown and the oysters are just cooked
through, about 5 to 7 minutes.
Garnish each dish with parsley sprigs, if you like.
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