CRY HAVOC COSTUME AND KIT GUIDE

CRY HAVOC COSTUME AND KIT GUIDE
Welcome to the Cry Havoc costume and kit guide. Let me state first and foremost we are not
intending to be super strict with kit, we want our game to be accessible, but we do want to
encourage everyone to make a really good effort to have great looking kit within the limits of the
background we’ve created. In light of that; here are some guidelines for the sort of things we’re
aiming for. One other important note: our game is historically based (after a fashion) and we would
like to encourage people to reflect that with their roleplay, but we have no intention of making any
gender restrictions on costume or roles within our game.
The setting we’ve created has a rationale for kit from throughout the medieval period with a focus
on north western European styles. Some remoter or poorer areas might hark back to the end of the
early medieval/dark age period in look, whereas wealthier areas that have greater contact with the
world at large tend towards the end of the fifteenth century in style, but there is scope for
everything in-between. Also we’re encouraging players and groups to work with us to design their
own backgrounds/provinces within the framework.
I’ve put together some example group/individual backgrounds to demonstrate the range of available
clothing styles and kit, as well as give a little insight into the game background. At the back are some
general kit images, beyond that links to costume and kit suppliers as well as links to image reference
libraries and some suggested books. We hope you enjoy.
BRETON TROUBADOR
Guilleme de Montauban is a travelling musician and teller of romances. This imaginative young
minstrel has been inspired by the plight of Lady Anne of Wessex, she is said to be a great beauty and
she is a fellow Breton after all. He has travelled across the sea and is determined to find Lady Anne
and be of service to her - he is even prepared to join her army if she does not care for his stories or
music. Although there is another way he may be of use: during his journey from Southampton he
spent time with the Duke’s soldiers entertaining them for a few pennies, or for a little bread and
wine, but also listening to their talk and remembering, yes, remembering all their soldiers gossip of
dispositions and manoeuvres. Even if the lady does not care to hear his tales of courtly romance
there are other stories that she cannot fail to welcome.
Guilleme is not wealthy or famous and his unfashionable but practical clothes reflect this – he has
few possessions besides his instrument and what he stands up in: a simple shirt; long linen braies;
single leg hose; leather shoes; a linen coif; a lightweight woollen knee length tunic and a long
woollen over-tunic and hood
MERCIAN ‘VOLUNTEERS’
When the Duke of Mercia heard that Edmund had landed in Wessex he knew it spelled trouble:
knowing of Edmund’s nature he was certain that once he had crushed all resistance to his claim; his
ambition would not stop at the borders of Wessex: Mercia might well be next. Surrounded by
belligerent neighbours as Mercia is; it’s Duke is in a precarious situation – he cannot openly commit
to war in the south without imperilling his northern borders. Instead by secret letters he has
encouraged his most trusted lords to cause ‘certain ungovernable young men that lately trouble our
peace to leave our demesne and seek such adventure as they may elsewhere’. His lords took the hint
and began vigorously organising small bands of ‘volunteers’ to slip into Wessex and join the
rebellion.
John of Bryse-Norton and his companions are just one such band. A younger son of a wealthy
yeoman, he has been sent to win a name for himself along with an experienced old retainer and
several stout tenants of his father’s.
John’s equipment and clothes are largely hand-me-downs but of good quality none-the-less. His
armour once belonged to his great grandfather who fought alongside Henry v in France. Most of
John’s companions have old bascinet helmets, kettle helmets or steel skulls and a mixture of mail
and padded armour if they have any at all. They are armed with swords and bucklers and longbows
or polearms. John proudly carries his great grandfather’s poleaxe.
PLUCKY WESSEX LASS
Born to poor tenant family in the Somerset levels; Linnet of Westhay grew up in a family of men; her
mother died when she was young and it was left to her and her father to raise her two younger
brothers. She was quicker and cleverer than her brothers, always the captain of their childish games,
she was a better shot with a sling and a bow, and when they played at fighting with staves she
usually got the better of them - even when they began to grow bigger and stronger than she. Now
her brothers have gone to join Lady Anne’s army to fight the false Duke. Father says she must stay
behind and marry pudding faced Much Hodgeson. Her father says armies and wars are no place for a
woman, much less a girl. Linnet thinks it is Lady Anne’s army and she’s a woman, and if her foolish
brothers are good enough to fight for her; then Linnet certainly is. Besides: somebody needs to look
after them. Still, her father would not listen, so dressed in some of her brothers’ old clothes she
stole out of the house and slipped off that very night to join the army. When she gets there she
might be able to pass for a boy, or failing that she will ask Lady Anne to let her fight – surely she
won’t say no – especially when she sees how good at shooting and fighting she is.
Linnets clothes are simple and practical: linen undergarments: shirt and long braies; a woollen tunic,
a hood and a cloak; woollen single leg hose which she wears rolled down and tied off at the knee
unless the weather is cold. She also wears felt or woollen cap. At her belt is a knife and a drawstring
purse for the few pennies she possesses; she has a hatchet for chopping firewood thrust through her
belt and over her shoulder is a stout stave she has cut for herself. She’s tied a bundle with some
bread and cheese and some spare clothes and looped it over the stave so she can carry it over her
shoulder.
GALLOWGLASS BAND – THE MACSWEENEYS
Big Brian MacSweeney and his boys have fought alongside Captain Savage before, but this time
there is more of an incentive: Gaston the Bastard is rumoured to be among Duke Edmunds
mercenary army. When Captain Savage last forayed into the wars in France he took Big Brian and a
contingent of his Gallowglass and Kern attendants with him – experts at living off the land and hit
and run warfare; they proved invaluable to Savage’s small and mobile force. They not only proved to
be expert foragers; but they spread terror among their enemies with their habit of collecting severed
human heads during their raids. The MacSweeney boys were having a high time of it until they met
their match in the form of Gaston d’Angreau - generally known as The Bastard - a name that he
exemplifies in every sense. He is as cunning as a fox and as slippery as an eel - a lifetime of
disreputable exploits had made him more than a match for the MacSweeneys’ game, and when Big
Brian had lost three of his favourite sons to Gaston the Bastard’s ambuscades, and even come ‘this
close’ to losing his head: he had begun to foster a burning ambition to claim the Bastard’s own head.
The fortunes of war had forestalled that fateful encounter however, and the MacSweeneys returned
home with their purses full, but with their hearts still smouldering with a desire for revenge. Now
three long years later their chance is once more at hand.
Big Brian MacSweeney is a Gallowglass, when he goes into battle he wears a long padded gambeson
under a long maille hauberk and a full helmet that looks like an heirloom from the dark ages, he
carries a fearsome polearm known as a ‘sparth axe’ as well a sword of peculiar Gallowglass design
which he wears in a fringed scabbard. The rest of the MacSweeney Gallowglass are similarly
equipped apart from Brian’s impressive headgear (they wear an assortment of steel caps and open
faced bascinets), whilst their Kern attendants wear little more than their massively sleeved (and
generally massive) yellow leine shirts and short embroidered jackets. Some may sport the odd mail
vest; padded jack or brigandine and steel cap. They go bare legged and often bare footed. The Kern
are variously armed with an assortment of short bows, javelins, long knives, sparth axes, and the
occasional gallowglass sword complete with fringed scabbard. Some of them sport a peculiar hair
style called a Glib that has a mop like fringe that falls down to the top of their eyes. They have great
thick hairy cloaks for when the weather is cold and also to sleep under.
DELEGATION OF FROM YORK
When God abandoned man, man did not entirely abandon the institutions of the church. This was
never truer than in the case of the Bishopric of York. The church of York is powerful in the north but
they would dearly love to expand their influence to the south, where the rival church of Canterbury
strives (less successfully) to hold sway. To this end the Bishop of York has sent one of his most
trusted envoys - Friar Hugo of Pontefract - to Wessex to offer the patronage (along with the implied
fiscal aid) of the church of York, to the side in the upcoming conflict that chooses York to be their
spiritual guide. Of course it’s fairly important that Hugo backs the winning side as well.
Whilst the domains of erstwhile England respect at least the power (even if not the authority) of
York, the journey from York to Wessex is a long one and not without its dangers; in the forests of the
disputed border countries lurk bands of outlaws and broken men, whose desperate condition might
overmaster their doubts against assaulting the Archbishop of York’s envoy. It would be unthinkable
to travel without an armed escort; therefore Hugo has with him Sir George Coleville and his retinue
who holds his estates through the church of York.
Coleville is well equipped in Milanese style harness, he has several men at arms with him who are
equipped in similar style but to a lesser quality, as well as a number of archers and billmen who are
quite well equipped with maille sleeves, maille standards, brigandines and sallets. When not
armoured for battle Sir George wears a fancy doublet with padded shoulders, joined hose that come
up to his hips and thigh length leather riding boots. He also wears a short pleated gown of rich fabric
over all, and an acorn hat. His men at arms aspire to a similar appearance but to a lesser quality. His
archers and bill men wear joined hose, simple shoes and plain doublets and for the most part sport
roll-brim felt hats. For this mission the Archbishop himself has provided Sir George’s men with livery
coats in the colours of York with the Archbishops emblem embroidered on the left breast. Should
the embassy succeed Sir George and his men will join the fight.
Friar Hugo wears a typical friar’s habit complete with mantle and scapula.
The Friar has urged Coleville to bring his wife along; as he knows he may have to negotiate with Lady
Anne. He feels that if a companionship between Lady Anne and Lady Coleville can be encouraged: it
might aid him. Lady Coleville is dressed in very rich garments – but the fashion of York is somewhat
conservative – some might consider it old fashioned. He maids and female attendants are dressed in
kirtles and simple gowns.
WESSEX NOBLEWOMAN AND HER RETAINERS
Lady Margret holds Portland castle. Her husband was killed in the first battle against Edmund; her
son languishes as a captive at Winchester. She is determined to oppose Edmund but dare not act
openly against him. The Castle is strong and still retains a small garrison of Lady Margret’s own
people which Edmund has demanded shall declare for him as surety of her son’s life. Outwardly she
must obey, but she holds a hope against capitulation which has been assured by Lady Anne of
Wessex – if her son could yet be freed.
Lady Margret wears the very latest in continental fashion, square necked kirtle and velvet gown
trimmed with cloth of gold. On her head she wears an early form of Gable hood, her female
attendants wear clothes of a similar cut but more mundane fabric, their headdresses are more
simple forms of hood (the major reference for Lady Margret and her female attendants would be
The Queens Servants). Her male retainers and soldiers are wear livery coats that have square necks
and pleated skirts, under which they wear joined hose that come up to their natural waist line (or
higher); short high-waisted doublets and round or square toed shoes (The Kings Servants is the best
reference for Lady Margrete’s male attendants). On their heads they wear woollen bonnets. Many of
them are equipped with Almain Rivet half armours, imported from the low countries and carry
either long bows or Bills. To protect their heads they wear sallets – the archers prefer the open faced
variety.
ALMAYN MERCENARIES
When Sir Simon Carew was ousted from his ancestral estates for refusing to knuckle under to the
Church of York - his place was given to the rival Coleville family. Exiled – he wandered throughout
Europe as a soldier of fortune and discovered that he had a flair for the business of war. He soon
attracted a company of mercenary soldiers and waged war according to the modern methods.
Sir Simon is a captain of landsknechts and as such affects their unusual fashion of extravagantly
slashed and decorated garments; dainty cow’s mouth shoes, and hat with a forest of ostrich
feathers. When armed for war he eschews the full harness usually worn by his class in favour of a
lighter half armour in the Almain rivet style. For greater visibility he wears a simple steel cap under
his landsknecht hat. He carries the distinctive katzbalger sword at his hip and carries a poleaxe.
His men are the scum of Europe and arguably the finest soldiers in the world. Dressed in the
landsknecht fashion they are for the most part armed with pikes, with a sprinkling of crossbow men,
and some armed with two handed swords or halberds to protect the flanks. Most of them sport
katzbalgers. These men who occupy the front rank have almain rivet armour, the rest for the most
part are relatively lightly equipped with the occasional steel cap and bishops mantle.
GENERAL KIT IMAGES
Here I’ve compiled a number of general reference images: eating utensils; camp kit; personal
accessories etc.
RECOMMENDED SUPPLIER LIST
ALL BEST STUFF – reasonably priced off the peg mail. “Kit is good, timescales reasonable as is
shipping - they also sort out import duty within their prices (but remember to ask about it). Seem to
give discounts on bulk orders as well.” They also seem to do extremely cheap footwear as well
allbeststuff.com/c-medieval-chainmail-armor
ALISON AND HUGH’S HANDMAID THINGS – Arrow baskets, leather purses and various nicely made
oddments – make very nice early Tudor hats (Henry Tudor style).
http://alisonandhughshandmadethings.co.uk/
ANNIE THE PEDLAR –Very good point making service, hooks & eyes, wooden bowls/plates and
various oddments
http://www.anniethepedlar.com/
A.S.H. – Armour Services historical – very nice quality brigandine armour – be warned the prices are
correspondingly high and I’m told he has a very long waiting list.
http://www.armour-services-historical.co.uk/
ARMOURED UP – UK based customised mail supplier
www.facebook.com/ArmouredUp
BAYLEY HERITAGE CASTINGS – Really nice choice bronze and metal castings, belt buckles, fancy
purse frames especially
bayleyheritagecastings.co.uk/
BERNIE THE BOLT – fabric supplier, good ranges of wool fabric.
http://www.calltoarms.com/bolt/index.html
CAP A PIE – Supplier of flat ring riveted maille (in my opinion the only stuff worth having) weighs
almost nothing and won’t come apart.
http://www.capapie.co.uk/index.html
CLOAKED AND DAGGERED – Good UK supplier of costume for various periods
http://www.cloakedanddaggered.com/
THE CLOTH HALL – Fabric supplier (Lindy Pickard). Stocks a good range of woollen fabric – usually
better to catch her at Torm or one of the reenactors markets
Email: clothhall@talktalk.net
ELMSLIE – Very nice high quality cutlery
www.elmslie.co.uk
EYSENKLEIDER – German master smith and armourer
www.eysenkleider.com/
HERTS FABRICS – fabric supplier, good ranges of a variety of fabrics – usually has a good stock of
linen.
http://www.hertsfabrics.co.uk/
HISTORIC ENTERPRISES – Hose - the best commercially available, also a full range of quality medieval
costume
http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=138
KARL ROBINSON – suitable for belts, archer’s bracers and purses – very nice well researched, well
made leatherwork.
http://www.karlrobinson.co.uk/
LE PREVO LEATHER – supplier of leather and leather crafting tools/supplies.
http://www.leprevo.co.uk/
LUCY THE TUDOR – does very good bulk deals on aiglets, hooks & eyes etc.
http://lucythetudor.co.uk/shop.htm
MATULS – Polish re-enactment store, lots of really good reasonably priced stuff, including lanterns,
buckets, wheelbarrows, cutlery, tents, wooden shovels, chairs, costume etc.
http://www.matuls.pl/index.php?IDP=1&Lng=1
MIDGARD SEAMSTRESS – Nicely made costume at a good price – Look for her on Facebook.
NEHELENIA PATTERNS – Good selection of patterns for costume making – those under the medieval
section are most appropriate for Cry Havoc – the other sections being generally too late
http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html
NP – HISTORICAL SHOES – Katerina and Juraj, lovely people, gorgeous shoes. Very high quality period
shoes.
http://www.np-historicalshoes.com/home.php?lang=en
PAST TENTS – Well known English period tent maker.
http://www.past-tents.demon.co.uk/
PILGRIM SHOES – excellent value shoes http://www.tudormarket.com/ - (go to the little tent marked
pilgrim shoes)
PHIL FRASER – suitable for belts, purses, scrip bags, eating knives, archer’s bracers.
http://www.philfraser.com/index.htm
PROPWORX – High quality bespoke LRP weapons and theatrical props.
https://www.facebook.com/Sander-Propworx-324505141019931
RAYMONDS QUIET PRESS – American supplier of really nice metal castings. Carriage and import
duties can be expensive – best to club together to share costs
raymonds-quiet-press.myshopify.com
SAXON VIOLENCE – LRP weapon maker, highly recommended for pole arms and stab safe weapons,
especially historically accurate styles.
THE QUARTERMASTERIE – a good selection of ceramics including salt-glaze stoneware, they also
provide all sorts of other bits & bobs – best to catch them at TORM or another of the markets. All
their pots are from Hudson Claypotter – see above.
The Chatelaine
Russetts, 7 Smallworth Common
Garboldisham, Norfolk, IP22 2QW
Tel: 01953 681441
email: thechatelaine@tesco.net
RE-ENACTMENT SHOES – does what it says on the tin. Shoes that look period correct at a price that
won’t break the bank. http://www.re-enactment-shoes.co.uk/
RYALL ARMOURIES – Fred Ryall Armourer. Has a very good feel for correct period armour shapes.
http://www.ryallarmouries.co.uk/
https://www.facebook.com/fred.ryall
TENTORIUM – Very good heavy duty period linen tents
http://www.tentorium.pl/main.php?lg=en
TODS STUFF – knives, woodwork, leatherwork all made to the very best historic standards – prices
are correspondingly high.
http://www.todsstuff.co.uk/
TRINITY COURT POTTERIES – Excellent period ceramics – very nice, fairly robust, cups, jugs and very
good costrels. He is also very knowledgeable about his subject.
http://www.trinitycourtpotteries.co.uk/
TWO J’s – Eating knife sets, horn beakers, budget sallets and arming caps etc.
http://twojs.me.uk/Armour.htm
SALLY POINTER – Really excellent very reasonably priced knitted, felted tudor hats.
http://www.sallypointer.com/knittedhats.htm
SPES – MEDIEVA LMARKET – Polish supplier of costume, accessories and tents
http://www.medieval-market.com/
RECOMMENDED LITERATURE
MEDIEVAL TAILORS ASSISTANT – Sarah Thursfield. Definitive guide to making medieval costume –
covers from early medieval to fifteenth century.
LANDSKNECHT SOLDIER 1486-1560 – Osprey publishing. Good introduction to the history and
organisation of Landsknecht armies.
THE QUEEN'S SERVANTS: GENTLEWOMEN'S DRESS AT THE ACCESSION OF HENRY VIII – Caroline
Johnson. English Ladies court dress at around 1509. Includes patterns for scaling up and instructions
for making full outfits
THE KING'S SERVANTS: MEN'S DRESS AT THE ACCESSION OF HENRY VIII – Caroline Johnson. English
men’s dress at around 1509. Includes patterns for scaling up and instructions for making full outfits
ARMOUR OF THE ENGLISH KNIGHT 1400-1450 - Tobias Capwell. For English "knightly"armour of the
first half of the C15th this is what you need for inspiration. “Following that you will need a lottery
win to buy what you now want”
1381: THE PEEL AFFINITY: AN ENGLISH KNIGHT’S HOUSEHOLD IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY – La
Belle Compagnie
RECOMMENDED IMAGE LIBRARIES
WEB GALLERY OF ART – Wonderful collection of art images from throughout history. Has a brilliant
search facility that allows you to search by time period, medium, artist etc.
http://www.wga.hu/
GERMAN NATIONAL MUSEUM - Biggest collection of medieval and renaissance art in Germany - a
good resource for paintings, costumes, weapons and armour, also humanism.
http://www.gnm.de/
ROEL RENMANS’S ALBUMS - Useful set of albums for amour, etc. inspiration for C12th to C16th (and
beyond).
https://www.flickr.com/photos/roelipilami/sets/
ANDREA CARLONI’S ALBUMS - more renaissance Italian inspiration than is healthy.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/andrea_carloni/sets/?&page=1
PINTREST PAGE –“And for the terminal armour addict with insomnia”, 17,000 + pictures of pieces of
mainly medieval armour.
https://www.pinterest.com/tbiliter/photos-from-matthias-golls-phd-thesis/
CARL KOPPESHCHAAR’S ALBUMS
https://www.flickr.com/photos/98015679@N04/sets/
GLOSSARY
This is by no means an exhaustive list – but rather some general kit terms that are likely to be
bandied about in relation to Cry Havoc.
AGLETS – Small sharply tapering metal cones for fixing to the ends of laces (Points). For decoration
and for ease of threading the points through eyelets in garments
ALMAIN RIVET – a particular style of half armour produced in large numbers, commonly in Germany
or the Low Countries. It usually (but not always) consists of cuirass with faulds and tassets; splints
with distinctive sliding hand protectors and a simple steel skull helmet
AVENTAIL – Mail neck and shoulder protection that fastens to the bottom edges of a helmet
BASCINET – A type of helmet that has close fitting sides and usually rises to a slightly backward
sloping point at the top, very often worn with an aventail – and may have a hinged visor
BEVOR – Solid plate protection for the throat and lower face – commonly worn with a sallet, but also
with a Kettle helm
BILL – General English term for a polearm, though typically applies to English Bill, Italian Bill and
Halberd
BISHOPS MANTLE – maille cape that sits over the shoulders like a short poncho and protects the
neck, shoulders and upper torso
BRAIES – Linen underpants, earlier styles are like knee length shorts and are worn with single leg
hose, whilst latter styles are more like briefs and are worn with joined hose.
BRIGANDINE – Torso protection in the form of small overlapping metal (or sometimes horn) plates
riveted inside fabric. Only the fabric and the rivet heads are visible when worn. The very rich
versions might be made of velvet with gilt rivets and tinned metal plates to prevent rust, whilst
plainer cheaper versions might be made from hemp canvas, wool or linen with whatever bits of
metal or horn were available to make the plates.
CUIRASS – combination of breast and back plate
DOUBLET – Short jacket like garment can be sleeved or without sleeves. Usually laced to hose with
points
ENGLISH BILL – variety of halberd with a distinctive hooked cutting blade, point and transverse spike.
Typically used by the English
FAULDS – articulated lames attached to bottom of breastplate to protect the lower abdomen
GOWN – Top garment. In a female context it is a heavier version of the kirtle that is worn as a top
layer. In a male context it is the equivalent of an overcoat. Worn by all levels of society.
HALBERD – common form of polearm with cutting blade, stabbing point and transverse spike
HARNESS – term for armour, usually applies to a suit of plate armour
SINGLE LEG HOSE – close fitting woollen hose that reach up to the thigh and usually are tied to a
waistband to hold them up. Can be worn rolled down and tied off under the knee. Can have feet or
simple stirrup straps. Worn with long Braies
ITALIAN BILL – variety of polearm with long curved cutting edge, very long spike point and transverse
spike
JACK CHAINS – reenactors term for splints
JOINED HOSE – close fitting woollen leggings that meet at the top like trousers, with a codpiece. Can
have feet included or a simple stirrup strap. Are worn with points to lace them into a doublet
KATZBALGER – distinctive Landsknecht side-arm, generally a short (but not always) stout double
edged sword with either a steep point or a blunt end, features a short grip that flares out at the end
and a figure of eight or extreme ‘S’ shaped quillon.
KETTLE HELM - Helmet with a wide flaring brim – a bit like an WW2 ARP helmet.
KIRTLE – Women’s intermediate full length garment largely worn throughout the medieval period by
all classes. Earlier styles are looser, while later styles tend to be close fitting. Worn over a linen
smock and usually under a gown or over kirtle
LEINE - Voluminous shirt worn by Gallowglass and Kern. Usually yellow with massively tapering
‘wizard’ sleeves, worn gathered up so the bottom hem is high up and belted at the waist.
MAIL COIF – Mail protection for the head, neck and shoulders that leaves the face open
MAN AT ARMS – general term for any fully harnessed combatant
POINTS – woven laces with metal aglets for lacing garments together and also for fastening armour
to garments
POLEARM – any weapon mounted on a long stave typically with a cutting edge as well as a stabbing
point
POLLAXE – A Knightly polearm, usually with an axe blade; a spiked thrusting point and a transverse
head often in the form of a hammer, spike or claw. The butt end often has a spike and some pollaxes
also have a metal disc to a third of the way down from the head to protect the user’s hand. More
expensive to produce than a bill, typically carried by a man at arms or officer.
SALLET – In modern terms an elegantly shaped helmet often rounded on top with close fitting sides
which flare out slightly at the sides and usually sweeps out to a point at the back. Most commonly
fitted with a ‘jawbone’ shaped visor and often worn with a bevor.
SKULL – simple close fitting round helmet
SPAR OR SPARTH AXE – distinctive Gallowglass polearm
SPLINTS – metal plates to provide protection to the outside of the arm. Sometimes with shaped
elbow and shoulder plates. Commonly referred to by reenactors as ‘jack chains’. Also refers to the
slightly larger Almain Rivet arm defences which have sliding hand armour included.
STANDARD – maille collar to protect the neck – often worn instead of a bevor
TASSETS – plate defences that hang from the faulds to protect the upper thighs
YEOMAN – Land owning class generally holding not less than 100 acres. Socially one step below
landed Gentry, but typically aspiring to advancement. They can be quite wealthy