In search of the very best coffee in Costa Rica

WINTER 2009
In search of the very best
coffee in Costa Rica and Brazil…
Santa Alina Estate
In April, Craig our Head Roaster, Shane our Production Manager and Michael travelled to Costa Rica
and Brazil with the aim of sourcing the very best coffee produced in these regions.
‘Trips to Origin’ are also hugely beneficial to see first hand that the co-ops and small estates we
purchase our beans from are truly sustainable, with the profits going back to the coffee farmers
and their communities. Craig, Shane and Michael share their insights on the regions they visited…
Q. How often do you travel to Origin? And what do you hope to
gain from these journeys?
These trips have become an annual event. We visit different
coffee regions each time to further build relationships with the
farmers we buy our beans from and to discover new coffees.
Seeing for ourselves the varying production and processing
methods from farm to farm and the advances being made in the
industry is always fantastic for expanding our own knowledge.
In many instances we have been working with the farms we visit
for a few years now, so meeting the people face to face, seeing
their operations, and sampling more of their beans brings an
important dimension of reality to our coffee and business.
We also spend time visiting other farms in the region and
sample their beans for future purchasing possibilities.
Q. Of all coffee regions, why Brazil and Costa Rica?
This year Brazil was very relevant as we have been purchasing
Santa Alina Brazilian beans which are used in our signature
Espresso Blend. We also wanted to explore other beans
from this farm in anticipation of a new ‘Relationship Blend’
we plan to have available later in the year.
Costa Rica is a country we love for their micro lot coffees.
Farmers here are becoming more creative in their methods
to produce unique coffees for the ultra specialty minded.
We were very fortunate to be hosted by CoopePalmares, who
have recently started producing ‘honeyed coffees’ and we
were intrigued to learn more about this new style of coffee.
Q. Did you discover any new flavour characteristics?
Yes, the ‘honeyed’ coffee in Costa Rica was a fascinating
development. As you would expect by the name, this coffee
tasted sweeter and more complex than traditional Costa Rica
coffee, which is usually more acidic with just a little sweetness.
This ‘honeyed’ affect is a result of a new processing method,
where farmers are leaving more fruit (the jelly under the skin) on
the coffee bean.
This gooey pulp stays intact and is 100% sun-dried in contact
with the parchment of the coffee. When processed in this
manner the roasted result is a bright, juicy
cup that still gives some of the fully washed taste attributes.
This coffee truly was a great discovery. We have purchased
several sacks and the shipment is on its way here to be
available in a few months.
Q. Allpress promotes fair, equitable and sustainable coffee
buying methods, such as the ‘Relationship Coffee’ model.
Were you reassured this fair trade is working?
Relationship coffee means we purchase beans direct from
growers. This grower to buyer business model allows us to
nurture relationships with farming partners who grow high
quality coffees and
ensures the majority
of the premium
price paid goes to
the coffee farmers.
The price includes
a social contribution
used to improve
their community.
It’s a transparent
and traceable
method and
guarantees quality
Pallet bound for Allpress
and equality for everyone involved.
At Santa Alina farm in Brazil we saw first hand how this model
was benefitting the farmers and their communities.
Over 80 families are living and operating on this farm, so in
effect it was a small community. Housing was provided for all
the families as was a medical centre and dental clinic that
operated every week. Buses operated to take the children of
the farmers to school each day, and a monthly food basket was
given to all 80 families.
A social club also operated every weekend giving the families
a communal venue to get together. It was heartening to see
that the theory of the ‘relationship’ model is in fact happening
in reality and giving this community improved standards of living
and social provisions.
Q. Did you notice any
growing, harvesting or
processing advances
while you were there?
The Costa Rican
processing of the
‘honeyed’ coffee was
the most noticeable
advancement. This new
coffee is a result of
mechanical mucilage
removal that was
Shading a coffee nursery
initially introduced in an effort to reduce water consumption
and contamination at the processing mill.
The change has positively reduced water consumption at
the mill by up to 80%! Coffee from this region is usually fully
washed so it is quite a shift from ‘traditional’ processing.
Overall it was interesting to observe the growth of mechanisation
across most areas of the industry. Mechanisation and
innovation of farming practices is being driven in part by the
desire to provide better returns to the co-ops and small estates
and in response to managing environmental issues.
Q. What was the biggest single insight of the trip?
The shift towards environmental responsibility for all those
involved in the coffee industry was enlightening. The impact
of this is becoming all encompassing, affecting the growing,
harvesting and processing of coffee.
While it’s still all about producing great tasting coffee,
attaining this quality needs to be achieved in balance with an
environmental consciousness.
The care they are taking in Costa Rica to reduce water
consumption and contamination was also prevalent in rural
areas of Brazil. At Santa Alina, controls are now being placed
on the farmers to clean up their own waste water and find
better ways of using it more efficiently.
The recycling of waste products such as the pulp and skin of
the fruit to produce compost and fertilizer is also becoming
more common.
Q. And finally, how much coffee did you taste every day?
A lot! On the days we were cupping it was not unusual to taste
up to 20 coffees a day. At every visit coffee was presented by
the farmers keen
to show off their
beans. We are
always looking for
that magic, unique
cup of coffee, so
it’s impossible to
say no.
Funnily enough,
when travelling
around Costa
Rica we were
accompanied by
Michael cupping
a La Marzocco
machine which was transported on the back of a truck. By the
time we got to our destination the machine was always set up,
ready to brew. This was no mean feat due to the state of the
roads – those machines are unbreakable!
Q. New coffees we sourced on this trip…
Three new Costa Rican coffees are on their way to the Allpress
Roastery. San Rafael, Berlin B and San Isidro (this farm is
100% operated by women). All are micro lot ‘honeyed coffees’
from sub-regions within CoopePalmares.
Supporting some of our favourite
Creative Industries
We love supporting these two events that
promote the best our country and the world has
to offer in writing, reading and fashion.
In May we were proud to sponsor the
Auckland Writers & Readers Festival, which
this year celebrated its tenth anniversary.
The festival brought together a very
diverse and interesting group of writers
and speakers, including writers from ‘The New Yorker’
magazine and the prize-giving ceremony for the prestigious
international 23rd Commonwealth Writers Prize.
It was a riveting, bustling event and we look forward to
partnering with this festival again next year.
With a reputation as one of
the most glamorous dates on
Auckland’s calendar, the ninth
Air New Zealand Fashion Week,
kicking off in September, is set
to be the biggest and best yet.
Once again it will see the debut of new emerging talents
as well as the return of some much loved favourites.
We love being a part of this event that highlights to world
buyers and the media New Zealand’s much envied take
on style.
Top-of-the-range chocolate
Now at Allpress Coffee
Chocolate connoisseurs will be thrilled to know that Pralus
(pronounced prah-loo) chocolate is now exclusively available
in-store at Allpress Coffee, 266 Ponsonby Road.
Pralus is a true discovery in chocolate offering a phenomenal
range of flavour profiles, from the heady full-bodied to the exotic
and delicate!
Francois Pralus is one of the rare, true chocolate-makers in
France and creates his own chocolate direct from finest Criollo,
Trinitario and Forastero cocoa beans. He imports these beans
from Central America, South America, Madagascar, Sao Tome
and Principe and Indonesia for his blends. Some of which
contain 80% cocoa.
Chocolates from the Maison Pralus have been awarded with
the highest accolades: The Grand Prix d’Excellence International
du Chocolate and the Grand Prix du Festival International du
Chocolate.
Considered the Rolls-Royce of chocolate, this is an indulgent
treat for the chocolate lover in your household. You won’t
be disappointed.
New from the Roastery
Our two new coffees are the Ethiopian Harrar and the Costa Rican Calle Copey Dota.
Both are unique to their region and reflect the care taken by growers committed to producing high
quality specialty coffees. They are best tasted by filter or plunger brewing.
These coffees can be sampled and purchased at Allpress
Coffee Store, 266 Ponsonby Road and Caffetteria Allpress,
Drake Street, Freemans Bay.
Ethiopian Harrar... Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee, and
produces some of the most unique coffees in the world.
Ethiopian Harrar coffee beans are grown on small farms in the
eastern Harrar region. They are dry-processed and generally
have a strong dry edge, winey to fruit like acidity, rich aroma,
and a heavy body.
Costa Rican Calle Copey Dota... Costa Rican coffee has set
the standards for fine wet-processed coffee for the rest of
Central and South America, and is also at the forefront of
satisfying the demand for unique coffees from micro lots.
This micro lot coffee is from Dota, a remote valley in the
Tarrazu region, and is exported to us by the CoopeDota who
combine the harvests of many smallholder farms of this region.
The cherries are picked ripe and allowed to sun dry. This
prolonged contact between the ripe fruit and the seed imparts a
fruiter, more complex flavour to the bean.
Dota coffees are distinct from other Costa Rican offerings
possessing a brightness which comes as a direct result of
the soil quality and high altitude of this region. High grown, at
1,500 - 1,550m and washed, this produces a very complete
coffee in terms of flavour, acidity and body.
This coffee shows the typical exotic fruit flavour of Ethiopian
coffees. It delivers a rich full body with an abundance of
distinctive characters, notably cognac and dried fruits.
This is a great example of coffee from this valley delivering a
balanced cup, sweet and smooth with tropical juice notes and
clean acidity.
A strong alliance for Africa
Interest in the origin of green coffee is growing, particularly in African coffee regions. In an effort to raise
awareness for these developing coffee communities three European companies involved in the coffee industry
have come together to jointly operate the Songwa coffee farm in Great Rift Valley, Tanzania, East Africa.
La Marzocco, our Italian espresso machine supplier, together
with Probat, a manufacturer of coffee roasting equipment and
Malkonig Grinders took over the lease of Songwa in September
2007 with the vision to bring specialty coffee industry
stakeholders to coffee origins for a meaningful and educational
experience. Being directly involved in the long term operation
of the coffee farm enables them to better understand the
intricacies of growing, processing and marketing of green coffee
for developing countries.
A community fund has been established to contribute to the
wellbeing and development of the local villages around the
farm and the three partners have begun with their own
donations to assist orphans in the farm area to attend primary
school. Additionally US$100 of each tour participant’s payment
will go into this fund and be used for future community
development projects.
To find out more about Songwa visit: www.songwa-estates.com
This ‘not for profit’ endeavour has similarities to the “farm
stay” concept and the trips are offered to their employees, their
clients and to other members of the industry. The three day indepth programme is dedicated to understanding the processing
steps from seed to the availability of green coffee for exportation
and includes hands-on tasks and training on the farm.
On the road
with Frith
We often talk about the importance of
a clean and well maintained espresso
machine, as only a clean machine can
produce truly great espresso.
As an Allpress technician I travel the country servicing customers’
espresso machines. Recently in Whangarei I visited ‘Caffeine’ and
was stunned to see how brilliantly clean they keep their portafilters.
It was no surprise the cappuccino* I had there was also fantastic
– no doubt a result of the care taken in all aspects of their espresso
preparation. Keep up the great work Sara and the Caffeine crew.
*
Get newly acquainted with an old classic the cappuccino which
has been much maligned over recent years. Many people consider
it a ‘beginner’s espresso’, where the taste of coffee is hidden by
milk and chocolate. This attitude is not to be encouraged.
A well-made cappuccino is, in fact, the classic Italian drink and
discerning coffee drinker’s choice. A perfectly extracted single shot
of espresso, and milk topped with foam. So if you’d like to lose
some milk from your latte but can’t handle a long black, this could
be the brew for you.
Frith.
Welcome new Allpress customers
Tay Street Beach Cafe, Mt Maunganui... perfect beachfront
location, offering a wide selection of delicious food suitable for
anytime of the day.
No.7 Balmac, Dunedin... for breakfast, a quick lunch or
an impromptu get together, experience Dunedin’s newest
neighbourhood eatery in Maori Hill. With a focus on freshness
and quality produce No.7 Balmac have their own kitchen garden
supplying the kitchen with the freshest of herbs and greens.
Gina’s Pizza & Pasta Bar... affectionately knows as ‘Gina’s’
serves fabulous Italian food (not just pizza and pasta) with
exuberant service in the genuine Italian style.
Bambina Newmarket... casual, relaxed breakfast and lunch
café with simple food, using the freshest ingredients. Based on
Bambina in Ponsonby, Pete and Sarah’s new café in Teed Street
will soon be a welcome addition to the Newmarket café scene.
Cafe de Brett... in the iconic Hotel de Bretts, Shortland Street
side, this café serves doorstopper sandwiches, pides, ficelle, and
fresh homemade salads.
Bennetts of Mangawhai Chocolates... chock-a-block with
exquisite handcrafted chocolates, this new shop, with factory
at the rear, opened in April and includes a café in the beautiful
purpose-built showroom.
Recycle a sack...
Exchange a gold coin for an authentic Colombian, Guatemalan
or Indonesian burlap coffee sack, with all donations going to local
Ponsonby primary schools. 101 uses from sack races to garden mulch.
Look out for the selection of sacks outside Allpress Coffee store.
PO Box 90069, Victoria Street West, Auckland 1142. Phone: 64 9 307 5555 Fax: 64 9 307 5550
Email: coffee@allpress.co.nz www.allpressespresso.com