An Extra Shot! - Peru this Week

LIVING IN
PERU
An Extra Shot
www.livinginperu.com
Starbucks
Starbucks and EnseñaPerú team up for a noble cause
[8]
April 2016 - Issue 8 Lima - Cusco
LIVING IN
Buzz
PERU
Election month means one thing: Ley Seca
[2]
A DAY IN THE
LIFE OF A
LIVING
LEGEND
[5]
PISCO
SOURS:
OVERRATED?
We ask an icon
[3]
CALLAO
The good,
the rad, and
the must -sees
[10]
FASHIONABLY
TRADITIONAL
[4]
Chivalry is dead
WHO WALKS
ON 4 LEGS
6YPZP[&9LÅLJ[PUNVUHUH]HSOLYV\WVUHZWLJPHSHUUP]LYZHY`
MVY7LY\»ZZLHWVY[HUKHSVVRH[ZVTLVM[VKH`»ZUVISLZ[TLU [9]
YET REMAINS
DISTINGUISHED?
[7]
[10]
This paper is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources
-XX-XX
April 2016 - Issue 8
2
Welcome to An Extra Shot!
From the editor
Meet the team
Ladies and gentleman, are you out there?
Carsten Korch - Founder of Living in Peru
Natasha Clay - The Buzz, Lifestyle
Hillary Ojeda - Food, Art & Culture
Agnes Rivera - Travel
Sheila Christensen Jeanneau - Contributor
Karen Darricades - Contributor
Helena María von Schuler - Contributor
Contributing photographers: Yamil Alvarez, Erick Andia,
Fernando Criollo, Prin Rodriguez
Eduardo Rivera - Contributing designer, Cover
Julio Cesar Vergara - Graphic designer
Isabel Cáceda Mendoza - Graphic designer
Silvana Loloy - Marketing and Sales
As the past few months have been polluted with presidential
campaigns and the airing out of frontrunners’ dirty laundry, we
felt it was time to clean up the act.
Don’t call us prude, we just don’t want to dirty ourselves any
more than the occasional cookie crumb while enjoying a cup of
coffee.
Our hats go off to those who refuse to give up on a dying tradition
and those who aren’t afraid to push forward for the betterment of
others. For us, it’s never a matter of ‘out with the old, in with the
new’. Rather, it’s all about making a better tomorrow, today.
And it all begins with learning a bit about the
past.
Want to see our previous issues and keep up
with those to come? Scan the code, it’s our gift
to you. Who says chivalry is dead?
Agnes Rivera
Editor
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Living in Peru
Livinginperu
@Living.in.Peru
The Buzz
El Caballero de los
Mares was and still is
renowned Peruvian
naval officer Miguel
Grau’s nickname during
the War of the Pacific.
Learn more about the
hero of the Naval Battle
of Angamos on pg. 9
Did you know that
the Amazon river was
named after the female
warriors referenced in
Greek mythology? Called
Amazonas, the warriors
possessed such courage
and a rallying cry that
it generated fear among
opponents.
Created in 1958 the
Peruvian Naval Museum and
Submarine Abtao can be
found in Callao and includes
relics of the famous Miguel
Grau. Originally named
“Tiburón,” the submarine was
launched into sea in 1953,
and would later be renamed
in tribute to the 1866 naval
war in front of Abtao, Chile.
Space spuds a thing of the
future? That’s right, 100
Peruvian potatoes have
become the chosen ones
to make the journey to
Mars for potential growth
purposes. Forty of the
spuds are native and 60
are genetically improved.
The first railway of South
America was inaugurated
in Peru in 1851 during
the presidency of Ramón
Castilla. Engineer John
England would lead the
construction of the 14km
railway, uniting the city of
Lima to Callao.
Got beer on your mind?
Pilsen was the first beer to be
elaborated in Peru during 1863
in Saenz Peña, Callao. Just
remember, come April 9th until
the 11th, Peru will be under
“Ley seca” for the presidential
elections. Afterwards you’re
welcome to enjoy a brew by
the beaches of Callao or any
region of Peru.
Located in the Pacific
Ocean near the coast
of Callao, the Frontón
island is located to the
Southeast of La Punta.
During the presidency of
Jóse Pardo (1915 - 1919)
a prison was constructed
on the island for highly
dangerous convicts.
#keepitintheground
As the oil spills expand
in Peru, celebrities like
Leonardo DiCaprio
are trying to help the
Amazon by bringing
awareness through
social media. Tag us @
Living.in.Peru
Hurrah! In Northern
Lambayeque the
Spectacled bear
population has
doubled. This fragile
species is on the
right path to avoiding
extinction.
Cusco’s traditional
polleras meet modern
day fashion. See what
clothing line is making
a colorful splash on
pg. 4
Natasha Clay
April 2016 - Issue 8
BEYOND PISCO SOURS:
Top mixologist raises the bar
Aaron Diaz, one of Peru’s top barmasters, invites us to reconsider the standard cocktail
and try a new liquid experience. Just one thing: leave that ego at home.
T
he initial phases of World Class Peru, the
national edition of the most important
cocktail contest in the world, have kicked
off. Who’s responsible for honing the skills
of some of the best that Peru has to offer behind the bar?
Meet Aaron Diaz, 2014 winner of El Comercio’s Luces
Award for Best Bartender and judge of various bar
championships, including previous editions of World
Class. Diaz has become a leader for mixologists in
Peru and throughout Latin America, having gained
bartending experience at internationally renowned bars
(The Aviary in Chicago, Moskovsky Bar in Moscow) as
well as directed national standouts (Casa Moreyra of
Lima’s Astrid y Gaston).
After living in international cities such as Brazzaville
(Congo), Santiago (Chile), Miami and Chicago (USA),
Aaron returned to Lima, Peru with a new perspective,
refined taste, and a passion to teach. Currently leading
the Conceptual Cocktail project, Aaron is proud to say
that not just one but three members of his team will
represent in the 2016 edition of World Class Peru: Luis
Obregon, Frank Alvarado and Alonso Palomino.
Although Aaron notes that World Class “has made the
bartending level rise in Peru,” he admits that bartenders
both on and off the stage are guilty of mistakes that keep
them from becoming one of the “best”.
“Lack of product knowledge, language, and technique
when preparing cocktails,” the bar-guru lists off, when
asked to specify what these blunders can be. “It’s largely
due to inexperience. Today, many consider themselves
bartenders, but few consider or value the experience
that is vital to command a team of bartenders through
example and other virtues.”
“
AROUND THE WORLD PERU HAS
BECOME SYNONYMOUS WITH ‘PISCO
SOUR’. PERSONALLY, I THINK THE
CHILCANO OR CAPITAN ARE MORE
BALANCED COCKTAILS.
“
SPOTLIGHT
3
So to be the best you have to believe you’re the best,
right? According to Aaron, that may not be the recipe
for success.
“Ego plays a crucial role in today’s competitions and can
become the enemy of humility and even overshadow
the professionalism of a bartender.”
Aaron, who has been working in the culinary world
since age 16 only to allow his curious instincts to take
him behind the bar, is fully aware of how precious the
Pisco sour is to Peru and how it’s viewed by the outside
world.
“Around the world Peru has become synonymous with
‘Pisco sour’. Personally, I think the Chilcano or Capitan
are more balanced cocktails.”
Ouch. What’s in store for Peru’s cocktail scene if one
of the country’s iconic barmasters removes the national
drink from its pedestal?
“Peru is much more than a national cocktail. We have
three natural regions that provide us with infinite
products. With the right knowledge we could develop
more unique flavors and national cocktails...The future
of [Peru’s] cocktail bar lies in harnessing the country’s
natural resources with knowledge.”
Agnes Rivera
Photo courtesy of Aaron Diaz
April 2016 - Issue 8
4
FASHION
FASHION POLICE:
Saving an Andean tradition
S
eason after season
fashion brands set out
to create something
new,
more
often
opting for modern cuts and
minimalism. What does this
mean for traditional clothes that
are full of color and decoration,
each element full of meaning
and value? Not to skirt the issue,
Griela Perez set out to save the
embroidered wear of Peru’s
highlands from extinction.
Her brand, Las Polleras de Agus,
enjoyed its first exportation
overseas to Spain last year
and continues to sell to proud
Peruvians
and
impressed
foreigners.
How did the project start?
It was a beautiful coincidence.
While living in Huanuco, in the
highlands of Peru, I was walking
through the market and noticed a
piece of art: women embroidering
polleras...I was pregnant at the
time and I fantasized that my
daughter [Agustina] would one
day be able to wear one.
The day I was able to find one
small enough to fit her, I was
so proud that I would dress her
in the pollera to every party or
gathering we would go to. It was
a sensation!
Today I feel satisfied not only with
the artisans that we work with but
with the outcome of the project,
to be able to share with the world
the beautiful art that Peru has to
offer.
Is Las Polleras de Agus only for
young children?
When we began, nearly a year
and a half ago, we only sold
polleras for young girls and
babies. Due to popular demand,
we then began to offer polleras
for the mothers as well. Now
we count with chalecos [vest],
table runners, pillowcases and
decorative blankets, bags and
laptop covers, among other
products.
It’s important to us to not only
innovate but to maintain the
artistic work and quality of our
artisans.
It seems risky for a fashion brand
to take influence from a tradition
that is fading. Why do so?
It’s our mission to rescue the
typical dress of the Andes in order
to create a boomerang effect. It’s
only natural that fashion and
style take influence from the
surrounding environment, so
if we can get these products to
once again enter today’s closets,
there’s a chance that polleras
[and other traditional wear] will
once again thrive in their place of
origin - the Andes.
Contact info:
info@laspollerasdeagus.com
QR CODE:
A Cusco girl living in her
own, goth-inspired world. This
20-something fashion designer
wears polleras like you’ve never
seen.
Agnes Rivera
Photos courtesy of Griela Perez
POLLERA
A combination of pre-Hispanic dress
and the style enforced by European
rule during colonial times, natives to
the Andean region of Peru and Bolivia
developed the polleras. These skirts are
made of bayeta, a handwoven cloth made
of sheepswool. Although they were once
for daily wear, upon festivals and special
occasions women would wear numerous
skirts at once, creating a tiered rainbow
of cloth around their waistline. Referred
to as melkkhay in Quechua, the style of
the full-bodied skirt can be an indicator of
where the woman is from, as regions and
communities will often share a similar
pattern or color.
April 2016 - Issue 8
5
ART &
CULTURE
AN AFTERNOON WITH A
LIVING LEGEND
Textile artist Maximo Laura invites us in for a tour around his studio in Lima.
While in his gracious presence at his
home in Lima, Peru, he gave me a tour
of his office, home, studio and gallery
as well as his artistic process. We
looked at the works he had hanging
in his own home, reflecting Ayahuasca
visions and, as he so eloquently puts
it, “magical realism”. His works have
the storytelling complexity and humor
of Hieronymus Bosch but with a more
lighthearted sensibility. It is no wonder
his work has appeared in every corner
of the globe.
From there we dove back into the
inner-workings of his practice, walking
through the many levels of his studio
space. Rooms filled with yarn being
spun, dyed and categorized by color
and proudly shared by the many people
that make up the Maximo village of
artist assistants. Then onto the rooms of
these same team members and mentees
working on the looms guided by
Maximo’s design templates, their skilled
hands bringing these creations to life.
“
THROUGH THE YEARS, I
HAVE ALWAYS LIVED FOR
WEAVING
“
I
first became familiar with
the brilliant work of Maestro
Maximo Laura in 2012 when his
work was on exhibit in Canada,
during The World of Threads festival, an
international exhibition of contemporary
fiber art I was also a part of. His works
were so engrossing that I got lost in
them and was actually 45 minutes late
to my own opening. For the artist from
Ayacucho and now termed a National
Treasure of Peru, “work is nourished
by symbols, stories, traditions, rituals,
experiences, and by permanently
returning to admire the iconography
of ancestral world cultures, especially
Peruvian cultures,” as expressed in his
biography and apparent in his woven
images.
Lastly his assistant walked me over to a
neighboring gallery space to enjoy more
works after which our tour, sadly, had
come to an end in his beautiful office.
There, his library of art books gave more
insight into the things that inspire his
image-making practice. Even his office
furniture is inspired by the same symbols
as portrayed in his art (his entertainment
station/ book shelf being in the shape of a
chacana, or Inca Cross).
I arrived that day a fan and left in awe
of the extensive workmanship and
organization it takes to realize his visions
and was blown away by his humble and
generous nature as an artist.
Maximo Laura spearheads many other
projects, festivals and artist networks that
support traditional and contemporary
textile arts; to learn more, including an
internship opportunity with the artist, visit
livinginperu.com.
Visit Maximo’s museum in Cusco:
Calle Carmen Alto 133, San Blas
Karen Darricades
Photos: Fernando Criollo, Prin Rodriguez
April 2016 - Issue 8
6
EVENTS
Peruvian literature is more
than Mario Vargas Llosa
W
hen most think of Peruvian
authors they think Mario
Vargas Llosa. Nobel Prize
winner, author of The War
of the End of the World, among other novels,
Vargas Llosa is considered one of the select
few contemporary writers to have advanced
Latin American literature to a global audience.
In light of International Book Day this month,
Living in Peru is dedicating a special place
in An Extra Shot to reading and the legacy of
Peruvian authors. And as it turns out, Vargas
Llosa isn’t the only big shot in the country’s
literary history.
The first Peruvian writer to edge his way into
gaining international recognition dates back to
April 12, 1539, the birthdate of Inca Garcilaso
de la Vega. Born to a Spanish conquistador
and an Incan noblewoman in Cusco, De
la Vega came into being in the tumultuous
environment of the Spanish conquest.
A product of two worlds--that of the Inca and
of the Spanish--De la Vega described in great
detail the daily lives of the Incas in The Royal
Commentaries of Peru. He was the first to
give the world an idea of the Incas’ cultural
practices from their use of plant medicines to
their complex ruling strategies. When he was
21 he moved to Spain, where he wrote volumes
on the Incas, gaining a reputation as the first
South American writer to reach widespread
fame in Western literature.
Not only that, but he paved the way for
Peruvians to expand their horizons beyond
South America. Just like Peruvian poet and
artist Jorge Eduardo Eielson (April 13, 1924 –
March 8, 2006).
Born in Lima, Eielson was enchanted by travel,
poetry and Peru’s pre-Columbian art. He grew
up in the Peruvian capital, and later studied and
worked in Paris and Switzerland before settling
in Italy until his death. In addition to his literary
work, he gained popularity for his use of kipus-knots used as recording and accounting devices
in pre-Columbian Peru--in his art. And, today one
of his most well-known poems, ‘Misterio’, can
be found written on a house wall in Leiden, the
Netherlands.
It’s writers like De la Vega, Vargas Llosa and
Eielson that are driven to describe the world they
see through their eyes, telling stories that must
be told and inspiring others, that we are proud to
celebrate International Book Day and reading in
Peru.
The Living in Peru team isn’t alone in celebrating
this special holiday. Go to your local bookstore
or library to find out where read-a-thons, bookgiveaways, lectures and other activities will be
happening throughout the country.
The Casa de la Literatura Peruana, located in the
Historic Center in Lima, will recognize Peruvian
poet Leoncio Bueno with the Casa de la Literatura
Peruana Award on Friday, April 22. And on
Saturday, April 23, they’ll host a book exchange
for children and adults and an inauguration of an
installation about reading.
At the Biblioteca Nacional del Peru, they have
organized the inauguration of a cultural center in
the Gran Biblioteca Publica de Lima in Abancay
Avenue at block 4 in Cercado de Lima.
Check out our calendar to read about more authors
and holidays dedicated to literature.
Calendar
April
April 2
International Children’s Book Day
April 5
Coldplay
British rock band Coldplay is
performing live in concert in Peru
for the first time. They are making
their way through South America as
part of their “A Head Full of Dreams
Tour.” Estadio Nacional, Lima
April 10
National Children’s Day
April 12, 1539
Birth of Inca Garcilaso de la Vega
Born of an Inca noblewoman
and a Spanish conquistador, De
la Vega is considered the first
influential writer to be born in
the Americas to gain widespread
acclaim and influence around the
world. He wrote primarily about
Inca history, society and culture.
April 13
Birth of Jorge Eduardo Eielson
April 15
National Poetry Day
April 15
International Art Day
April 17 to 24
Week of Paso Horses
Visit Hacienda Mamacona in
Lurin, Lima, to take part in the
annual Paso Horses competition.
April 17
Laura Marling
The British folk pop artist will set
foot on Peru’s grounds for the first
time to perform live in concert.
Pentagonito Auditorium, Lima
April 18
Anniversary of Chiclayo
April 19
International Bike Day
April 20/23
Maná
Hailing from Guadalajara, Jalisco,
Maná is a Mexican rock band
formed in 1986. With too many
awards to list and tens of millions of
albums sold, they are considered
one of the most successful Latin
American bands of all time. On
April 20 at the Estadio Nacional in
Lima; and April 23 in Arequipa at
the Jardin de la Cerveza
April 22
Anniversary of the Constitutional
Province of Callao
Turn to our travel and social project
sections to read about special events
and the history of Lima’s neighbor.
April 22
Anniversary of the Constitutional
Province of Callao
Turn to our travel and social
project sections to read about
special events and the history of
Lima’s neighbor.
April 22
International Earth Day
April 23
MDO
The Puerto Rican boy band is
returning after five years. Suit
up to listen to the soothing
rhythms of Pablo Portillo, Didier
Hernandez, Alexis Hernandez,
Alexis Grullon, Daniel Rene,
Lorenzo Duarte and Able
Talamantez. Ampitheater of the
Parque de la Exposicion, Lima
April 23
International Book Day
Go to your favorite bookstore or
library and take part in a read-athon or a book-giveaway, what
are you waiting for?
April 23
International Spanish Day
More appropriately ‘Dia del
Idioma Castellano’, this day is
dedicated to celebrating Spanish-
speaking regions around the
world. Peru is considered one of
the best (in terms of clarity and
vocabulary)
Spanish-speaking
countries in the world.
April 23, 1616
400th anniversary of the death
of Inca Garcilaso de la Vega
April 25
Anniversary of Ayacucho
April 27/30
Alejandro Sanz
The Spanish singer-songwriter
has won 15 Latin Grammy
Awards and 3 Grammy Awards.
Fans in Peru have two chances
to see him, so don’t miss out! On
April 27 at the Estadio Nacional
in Lima; and April 30 at Estadio
UNSA in Arequipa.
April 30
International Jazz Day
April 2016 - Issue 8
7
LIFESTYLE
A BREED LIKE NO OTHER
If you’re an animal lover and are interested in a unique experience, you may enjoy
observing the majestic Peruvian Paso horse (Caballo de Paso) up close and personal.
T
his breed initially descended from the horses that the
Spaniards brought to South America during the Spanish
Conquest, beginning with the arrival of Francisco Pizarro
in 1531. These horses were bred with Arabian stallions and
raised in a desert environment which helped to form their gait and
which gave rise to the Peruvian Paso horse. For approximately 400
years, the blood of this new breed was improved upon and bred in
relative isolation, developing characteristics that have made it one of
the world’s most beautiful and elegant breeds. Over time, Peruvian
breeders have kept the bloodlines clean and have selectively bred
primarily for gait, conformation and temperament. The main breeding
of these horses takes place in Trujillo, Ica, and Lima.
The trademark gait of this magnificent horse is what truly sets it apart
from other horses. The Paso horse does not trot, but is distinguished by
its unique, four-beat lateral gait (left hind, left fore, right hind, right fore)
referred to as paso llano. Somewhere between a walk and canter, their
gait is instinctive and natural and does not require extensive training.
This unique rhythm allows this horse to be used in competitions and
dance shows. Their gait has no vertical bounce as a trot would have
and hence allows the rider a totally smooth ride in the saddle.
The Peruvian Paso horse is typically medium-sized and usually stands
between 14.1 and 15.2 hands tall, and is somewhat compact and
muscular. They have deep chests and heavy necks
and low set, quiet tails. The build of the horse is
elegant and also powerful at the same time. There
are a variety of coat colors such as bay, brown,
black, buckskin, chestnut, gray, palomino, and the
desired coats are grays, dark skin and solid coats.
My personal favorites are palomino in color.
An important trait of the Peruvian Paso horse is
the brio, which is an intangible quality in regards
to controlled energy and the spirit of this horse. It
combines this spirit along with a bit of arrogance
and the sense of always being on parade along with
a willingness to please the rider. Brio lends itself to
the elegance of this breed.
Competitions are organized by the Association of
Breeders and Owners of Peruvian Paso Horses.
Two of the most important and best known events
are the National Peruvian Paso Horse Competition
(Concurso Nacional Oficial del Caballo Peruano
de Paso) held in Pachacamac at the Mamacona
Stables and the Internacional de la Primavera held
in Trujillo. These competitions showcase the best
3 THINGS
YOU MAY NOT KNOW:
1
The Peruvian Paso horse is the only
naturally gaited breed of horse in the
world that can guarantee its gait to
100% of its offspring.
2
The Peruvian Paso horse breed is
protected by the Peruvian government
through a decree enacted on
November 28, 1992 (Decree Number
25919) and was declared a Cultural
Heritage of the Nation by the National
Institute of Culture. There are laws in
place that restrict the export of the
national champion horses.
3
They are known to be one of the
world’s smoothest riding horses.
Peruvian Paso horses and riders compete in various
categories and demonstrate their abilities in these
events.
There are various haciendas which have tours
and shows year-round which include folkloric
musicians and dancers performing and interactively
dancing with a few of the horses. Occasionally you
will get the opportunity to observe an adorable
foal that was born a few days prior. The majority
of these haciendas are located in the Lurin area
(approximately 19 miles or 30 kilometers south
of Lima). A few of the more popular haciendas in
this area are: Hacienda Mamacona, Hacienda Los
Ficus and D’Paso Mamacona.
The most upheld principle among Peruvian breeders
is that these talented Peruvian Paso horses are born
not trained.
Sheila Christensen Jeanneau
Photos courtesy of Diego Rizo Patrón
8
Publireportaje/Advertising Feature
COFFEE
CORNER
A SHOT FOR EDUCATION!
¡UN SHOT POR LA EDUCACIÓN!
Education is one of the key factors that generates development and economic growth in
the community. That’s why, we have joined efforts with EnseñaPerú to be able to directly
impact the children and young adults directly by granting them an excellent education.
La educación es uno de los factores clave que genera desarrollo y crecimiento económico
en la comunidad. Por eso, unimos esfuerzos con EnseñaPerú para impactar de manera
directa en niños y jóvenes otorgándoles una educación de excelencia.
CHRISTIAN BEDRIÑANA ESPINOZA, MARKET BUSINESS UNIT LEADER AT
STARBUCKS, SPEAKS UPON EDUCATION/ EL GERENTE DE UNIDAD DE
NEGOCIO DE STARBUCKS HABLE SOBRE LA EDUCACIÓN.
What values do Starbucks and EnseñaPerú share?
¿Qué valores comparten Starbucks y EnseñaPerú?
I think one thing in common between Starbucks and Creo que algo en común que encontramos en Starbucks y
EnseñaPerú is the genuine desire to positively impact EnseñaPerú es el deseo genuino de impactar positivamente
a las personas y transformar sus vidas.
people and transform their lives.
We know our brand and each of our stores are part of a
community. That is why we are always looking to contribute
in a positive way everywhere we do business, working to
build union between partners and customers, cooperating
one day at a time.
Why is education important to you personally?
Nosotros sabemos que nuestra marca y cada una de
nuestras tiendas forman parte de una comunidad. Es por
eso que siempre buscamos contribuir de forma positiva
en los lugares donde hacemos negocios, trabajando por
conseguir una unión entre partners y clientes, cooperando
día a día.
¿Por qué la educación es importante para ti personalmente?
I personally think that we all are part of a society; citizens Personalmente pienso que todos los que formamos parte
and businesses are responsible for our country’s growth and de la sociedad; ciudadanos y empresas somos responsables
del crecimiento de nuestro país y la educación es la base
education is the basis so it can be sustainable over time.
para que dicho crecimiento sea sostenible.
Education is the fundamental tool through which human
beings have the ability to grow as people and professionals. La educación es la herramienta fundamental a través de la
With education, we have the ability to open eyes to the cual los seres humanos tenemos la posibilidad de crecer
world, to question, to contribute, to discuss, to participate como personas y profesionales. Con educación, tenemos
in building a stronger local and global community and la posibilidad de abrir los ojos al mundo, de cuestionar, de
aportar, de discutir, de participar en la construcción de una
leave that legacy for those to come.
mejor comunidad local y global y dejar ese legado para los
que vendrán.
Did you do this event last year? What was the outcome?
Christian Bedriñana Espinoza
We have done this campaign for the past 6 years and the ¿Hicieron esto el año pasado? ¿Cuáles fueron los
outcome is better every year. These kinds of results tell us resultados?
how committed people are to education.
Venimos haciendo estas actividades desde hace 6 años y los
resultados son mejores cada año. Este tipo de resultados nos
dice lo comprometida que está la gente con la educación.
April 2016 - Issue 8
ICONS
9
An officer and a gentleman
A timeline of standout events in Miguel Grau’s lifetime attest as to
why the naval figure of yore, nicknamed the Gentleman of the Seas,
is not to be forgotten.
July 27
1834
Son of a Colombian father, Grau was born and raised in Piura, Peru, the region native to his
mother. Having enrolled in the Paita Nautical School, Grau would first go to sea when just
nine years old aboard a merchant ship.
QR CODE:
An honor or a
horror: what
happens when
the great Admiral
is visualized
as a Japanese
animation?
1853
Nineteen-year-old Grau became an officer candidate in the Peruvian Navy, keeping an
impeccable reputation and outstanding work ethic that would see him quickly gain ranks.
1876
Who says all politicians are crooks? Grau was elected as part of Peru’s Congress of the
Republic, where he would go on to represent Paita as a congressman. It’s said that his seat
remains in congress to this day. Perhaps he could have been president someday...
April 5
1879
One-hundred and thirty-seven years ago, the War of the Pacific began, a conflict that would
leave a scar in the relation between Peru and Chile that is still visible to this day. At this time
Grau took title of Commander of the Navy and was captain of Huáscar, a stealthy warship.
March 21
1879
During the Battle of Iquique, Grau and his men aboard Huáscar were responsible for sinking
a Chilean ship yet would go on to rescue the surviving opponents from drowning. Grau even
wrote a letter of condolence to the widow of one of the befallen from Chile. Actions like
these would give him the nickname el Caballero de los Mares, or Gentleman of the Seas.
October 8
1879
In perhaps his most valiant effort, Grau led his men in the Battle of Angamos, proving he was
fearless even if he was the underdog. Outnumbered by Chilean warships four to one, Grau lost
his life and his men the battle; yet Peru continues to honor the hero every year on this date.
1967
Nine years after Grau’s remains were finally returned to his native country, he was posthumously
declared Grand Admirable of Peru by the Peruvian Congress. Thirty-three years later he would
be declared Peruvian of the Millennium by popular vote.
And the legend lives on… let your
future travels take you to the past
with these must-visits:
CALLAO:
Museo Naval del Perú
Avenida Jorge Chávez 123, Historical
Center of Callao
CENTRAL LIMA:
Museo Naval Casa Grau
Jirón Huancavelica 172, Lima
PIURA:
Casa Museo Del Almirante Miguel Grau
Calle Tacna 662, Piura
SEATTLE, WA, USA:
Lake Forest Park
A bust of the naval hero rests in this
park, located in the city referred to as the
Emerald City of the Pacific Northwest.
The bronze piece was a gift from Peru
consulates in 2011.
A
I
MONUMENTAL CALLAO
SOCIAL
PRO ECTS
V
,
W
hen you think of
Callao, you may
question why
someone would
put a gallery in such an obscure
and tough neighborhood. Why
not add another to Barranco,
Miraflores, or even central Lima?
The only answer is Gil Shavit’s
connection to the community
and his desire to have a positive
impact on the residents of
Callao.
C
resides where
C
When you visit Monumental
Callao and discover what this
area was like just last year and
what it has since become, you
will come to understand that
Gil Shavit, a humble and private
man, is truly a visionary.
“
C
P
Want to see
exclusive
pictures?
NEIGHBORHOOD NOT
ONLY EVOKES A PLACE,
BUT AN IDEA
“
Monumental
Callao
is
a
community organization created
in 2015 with the intent to
promote the development of an
area in Callao through art. Once
in a state of near abandonment,
the community would be
free of prejudice, classism,
discrimination of religion and
sexual orientation; an open
community that allows each
member the freedom to make
art, for the love of art.
“The idea is simpler than
the challenge: We will turn
Monumental Callao into a space
with a distinct link between us
and with us,” says Gil, explaining
his vision.
Callao has become the reflection
of how the community, art,
culture and investment can break
paradigms, and will remind us
that when things are done with
love, problems become solutions;
love cures everything.”
“We are going to develop a
place of coexistence between
creativity and the environment
that receives it. Monumental
When he looked at what was
there and what Monumental
Callao would become, he had
the following in mind:
“Peru is full of people who make
work with love and creating light.
Ours is a proposal that seeks to
attract that light, but to blind the
differences...A space that embraces
freedom with ‘neighborhood’. And
the truth is, we like that word.
Because in a neighborhood we are
all,” says Gil.
“Neighborhood not only evokes
a place, but an idea: confidence,
calm, home. And that’s what
we’re going to bring back...
without any limit rather than the
respect and tolerance towards
others.”
All I can say is that is a visionary!
To take old, run-down rubble
and long forgotten buildings
and turn it all into a megaplex
for artists was a formidable task
and yet, he pulled it off. Today
we are looking at a giant art
presence in Peru and all of South
America. It is a city within a city,
devoted to art and community
and neighborhood.
Helena Maria von Schuler
Photos: Mirella Moschella Coello
WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR AT MONUMENTAL CALLAO
ART GALLERIES
AND SPACES
ART RESIDENCIES
ART SCHOOL
FASHION AND
DESIGN STORES
RESTAURANTS
There are 10 galleries and spaces
for artists to show their work.
Spaces and galleries are tailored
specific to the type of art shown
from paintings, sculptures, art
installations and street art, just to
name a few.
They have 15 residences in
La Casa Valega (with green
balconies this building is located
between Jiron José Gálvez and
Calle Independencia). They are
exactly what any artist would
need to complete projects and
works; beautifully appointed,
yet functional for the artist.
Headquartered in the District of
Miraflores, the Corriente Alterna
school has an extension on the
third floor of Casa Ronald in
Monumental Callao. The school
offers three educational areas
of concentration: photography,
painting and sculpture; with a
capacity of 15 people for each
class.
Fashion and design is integral to
any artist; Monumental Callao
is no exception. They’re catering
to artisans of the highest quality
in Peruvian culture, but eclectic
enough to fit in with the look of
SoHo New York.
When you go to Monumental
Callao be prepared for a full
day that will work up a hunger.
Why not stop in and visit any of
the cool and hip little restaurants
with food that make Peru famous!
You don’t have to leave the area
to enjoy scrumptious food, from
burgers to ramen.
April 2016 - Issue 8
11
TRAVEL
CALLAO, PERU’S SEAPORT
REAL FELIPE FORTRESS
Overlooking the harbor of Callao, the fortress of colonial
times occupies numerous city blocks as its irregular pentagon
shape spreads over some 70,000 square meters. Standing in
front of the entrance on Plaza Independencia, nearby the
Museo Naval del Peru (see Spotlight), the massive stone
building can be quite intimidating - as it should. Built in
the mid-18th century out of cut stone from the San Lorenzo
island, Real Felipe was meant to protect Callao from pirates
and looters; it would become the largest fortress built by the
Spanish in a foreign land. Today it is often referred to as the
Peruvian Army Museum, and tour guides will haunt you with
ghost stories of prisoners from the past that lurk around the
fortress.
View towers and underground passageways, drawbridges
over shallow ditches, and a museum full of relics such as
weaponry and uniforms are enough to shrug off those
phantomly fears and tour the a historic era of Peru.
“
Entering this rainbow village
could be enough to convince
you you’re not in Callao
anymore
“
B
etween the Andes of Peru and the Pacific Ocean,
Callao was once Lima’s gateway to the world,
offering a port to shuttle silver and gold. Europe
and South America enjoyed trade relations thanks
to the port city, and many immigrants (especially Italian)
arrived to the Andean nation and settled on the coastline. This
month, some 159 years ago on April 22, Callao was named
a Constitutional Province, giving it some independence from
it’s slightly (just 2 years) older sister, Lima. Today, chalacos
(as residents of the port city are called) are a proud group
of people, and with reason. Counting with seven districts, a
historic center, colonial fortress and neighborhoods that have
stood the test of time, Callao is like a well-travelled sailor: a
few scars here and there (including a major tsunami in 1746),
plenty of ink (see Social Project), and full of stories. Cast
your anchor and test those sea legs as we share a few tales of
modern day Callao, a city heavily influenced by its past.
CHUCUITO
This fishing district has been likened to the colorful, and
culturally-significant barrio of Argentina, Caminito. And
perhaps if you have just left the stone walls and muted
tones of Real Felipe, entering this rainbow village could be
enough to convince you you’re not in Callao anymore.
Just a few years ago, in an attempt to brighten the look
and reputation of this area, over 100 building fronts and
homes in Chucuito were given a fresh coat of paint in a
variety of colors. While this has been hailed as a work of
art by some, others point out that historic buildings that
hail from the days of Italian immigrants should not have
been altered.
Sandwiched between the city of Callao and La Punta, the
first railway of South America made a stop in Chucuito when
it was in operation during the later half of the 19th century.
Italian immigrants. Take a walking tour around the
district’s Plaza Galvez and observe the legacy left
behind by early 20th century settlers, including
some of the first mansions built in this area.
Despite its frigid waters, the sea surrounding the
small district are popular for yacht enthusiasts and
those practicing rowing. From the pebbled shoreline
of Cantalou, one of the more popular beaches in the
area, take a glance at the San Lorenzo and Fronton
islands can and let your curiosity be sparked. Although
the winter months are approaching, there are plenty
of reasons to continue splashing in the water.
WANT TO TEST YOUR
SEA LEGS?
Take a short boat ride just beyond the
coastline of La Punta and visit the Palomino
islands, a rocky couple of islands by the
names of El Fronton and San Lorenzo. Once
home to a prison for terrorists, a prison
riot broke out on El Fronton in the mid
80s; although uninhabited these days, the
barracks are still visible to this day and make
for quite a mysterious scene when visited
upon a foggy winter’s day.
Don’t want to live in the past? Hop over to
San Lorenzo, the larger of the two Palomino
islands, and watch a herd of sea lions laze
on the rocky bluffs. Birds like pelicans and
Humboldt penguins will likely make an
appearance, hoping to steal the show.
LA PUNTA
One of the seven districts of Callao, La Punta is quite unlike
any of its neighboring boroughs and a reprieve from the
hustle and bustle of Peru’s nearby capital city. Located on a
peninsula (hence its name, translated to “The Point”), nearly
one third of La Punta’s territory is taken up by the Peruvian
Naval Academy though its origins speak of fisherman and
Guided boat tours depart daily from the
piers of both La Punta and Callao. Tours
and activities will vary, some offering the
opportunity to swim with sea lions. Leave a
4 hour window of time to complete the tour.
Agnes Rivera
Photos courtesy of Promperu, Yamil Alvarez