Secret Waterfalls of Marin-Volume 2 Alamere Falls, Pt. Reyes

Transcription

Secret Waterfalls of Marin-Volume 2
Alamere Falls, Pt. Reyes - Photo by Phil Arnot
Copyright 2005 © by Michael McCarthy and Intentional-Traveler.com Email us at: info@intentional-traveler.com
No text or photos can be reproduced for commercial use without express consent of the author.
Produced by Tom Schueneman at TouristTravel.com
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Secret Waterfalls Volume Two
Introduction .............................................................................................................. 3
Notes on the contents ............................................................................................ 3
Hiking etiquette....................................................................................................... 4
Winter picnics ......................................................................................................... 5
Safety tips .............................................................................................................. 6
Hiking with kids....................................................................................................... 6
Hiking with dogs ..................................................................................................... 7
Mileages and distance............................................................................................ 7
Part 1: Eastern Marin County Falls......................................................................... 8
Bootjack Trail ............................................................................................................. 8
Kent Canyon Falls.................................................................................................... 10
Cascade Falls, Mill Valley ........................................................................................ 12
Little Pacheco Canyon ............................................................................................. 14
The Inkwells ............................................................................................................. 16
Part Two; Pt Reyes Hikes...................................................................................... 17
Pelican Falls ............................................................................................................ 18
Alamere Falls ........................................................................................................... 19
Phantom Falls .......................................................................................................... 21
Horsetail Falls .......................................................................................................... 22
Kelham Beach Cascade .......................................................................................... 23
Surprise Falls ........................................................................................................... 24
The Showerbaths at Secret Beach .......................................................................... 25
The Unknown Coast - Perennial Fall, Ribbon Falls and Seasonal Falls .................. 27
About Phil Arnot ................................................................................................... 31
Hiking Links .......................................................................................................... 32
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Introduction
Welcome to Secret Waterfalls of Marin Volume Two. Since Volume One was
published in early January 2005, many more hidden waterfalls have come to our
attention. The following list is by no means a complete roundup of all the waterfalls
in Marin; there are still more to come. Feel free to send in tips to other waterfalls not
listed here.
One thing most these of waterfalls have in common, however, is that they are
seasonal. They only spring to life after heavy rains and then disappear, some
vanishing in a few weeks or months. All vary in size and volume depending on the
day you find them and how long it’s been since there was any rain.
Waterfalls are much like rainbows or spring wildflowers in that regard. They are
magical visual delights that must be appreciated during their own season. In Marin,
that means January and February for all waterfalls, sometimes right through to early
summer in June for others depending on location and source of water. In every
instance, the best time to see these waterfalls is just after a heavy rain.
The Pt Reyes secret waterfalls in Volume Two are supplied courtesy of Phil Arnot of
Lagunitas. Phil has been exploring Pt Reyes for over 50 years and has managed to
compile an amazing list of hidden falls that are virtually unknown to the public.
There is a reason for their near invisibility. Some must be accessed via sea caves,
most of them at minus tides, via long hikes or by difficult beach access. Great care
must be taken in planning to visit these wild and secret places of Pt Reyes.
For full descriptions of these and other amazing Pt Reyes hikes, it is best to
purchase copy of Phil’s remarkable book Point Reyes; Secret Places and Magic
Moments, revised edition 1992, published by Wide World Publishing. The book is
available online but is no longer available for sale in stores. The book contains
detailed information about finding sea caves, wild beaches, cliffs, waterfalls and
other hikes to unknown areas of Pt Reyes.
Notes on the contents
In creating this document I have attempted to list every waterfall in Marin of which I
am aware, but I have not yet visited and verified every waterfall contained in this
booklet. Some seasonal waterfalls I have recently learned about from other hikers;
others that I have already seen I will re-visit and photograph. All of the waterfalls
listed here contain fairly reliable directions. Those few that I have not yet personally
verified have been indicated as such in the text.
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More waterfalls and photographs will be freely supplied in the future. Please check
back tohttp://www.intentional-traveler.com time to time. Feel free to send in clear
and easy-to-follow directions to other waterfalls that you have visited that are not
listed here. If you have a photograph of that site, please include it. Photo credits
and story bylines will be given to all contributors.
Hiking etiquette
When visiting these waterfalls, make sure that you park legally and strictly observe
the rules of proper hiking. That is, whatever you bring in, you bring out. Leave
nothing behind but footprints, and whenever possible limit the damage of any
footprints. Wear proper hiking boots or waterproof walking shoes and stay on the
marked trail. If it’s muddy when you go, simply stop every once in a while and scrape
the mud off. Stepping off the marked trail on to grass widens the path and alters the
topography for many months.
I rarely see anybody on these secret trails. Other well-known waterfalls, of course,
get lots of foot traffic, so I feel at ease sharing all these off-the-beaten-track
waterfalls.
Another local columnist wrote a feature a few years ago extolling the virtues of
Carson Falls (the trailhead starts just off the Fairfax-Bolinas Road; see the chapter
list above) and on the week following his column I joined a giant cavalcade of hikers
who, like me, had obviously read this interesting column and decided to enjoy the
beauty of those falls. Unfortunately the great crush of hikers forced some people off
the trail and tramped the meadows into mush; I was dismayed to see entire families
– including children with inappropriate footwear and no instruction in hiking etiquette
– trying to avoid the muddy path, and turning much of the meadows into a quagmire
in the process.
To the residents of certain neighborhoods with whom I have spoken during my
numerous trips to look for hidden waterfalls, I apologize if I am ruining the secrecy.
It is clear that some residents are very possessive about the wonderful gifts that
nature has bestowed upon Marin County, but I think we are all put on this earth to
enjoy its beauty, fresh air, clean water and sparkling skies. I encourage everybody
to experience and enjoy the outdoors and these waterfalls; Marin County is one of
the most beautiful regions on the entire planet and should be appreciated by
everyone.
But remember. Always park legally, never block the road, keep to the path, and
leave nothing behind. Even footprints.
Note: Do not trust these directions or any hiking books for exact hiking instructions.
Bring along a good topographic map of your own if you are heading into the deep
woods or taking hikes with multiple trailheads. It’s easy to get lost following other
people’s directions. Times and distances in this booklet are approximate.
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Winter picnics
One of the secrets of enjoying winter hiking, and winter picnics especially, lies in
knowing what to wear and what extras to bring with you. This not only means
wearing a pair of hiking boots or waterproof walking shoes (always plan to get wet)
but toting along the proper food and drink. Unlike summer, when it’s sunny and hot
and you want shade and relaxation, winter hiking involves being cold and getting
wet. Don’t let that stop you from enjoying these waterfalls, though. The day after a
mighty deluge is the best time to catch the runoff that causes waterfalls; even if it is
raining when you go simply by wearing the proper clothing you can avoid the
irritation of water in your eyes, down your back or up your boots.
The old cliché for Bay Area weather is “dress in layers.” I advise a light, waterproof
jacket with a shirt and sweater underneath. If a brisk walk warms you up, just take
off the sweater and put it in your pack. As soon as you cool down, put it back on. A
heavy raincoat can be an annoyance, and if you open it up because you’re hot the
rain or wind can soak you. Plan to stay dry; bring a waterproof shell, a hood or cap,
and proper footwear. Unless you are walking fifty feet, don’t bring a picnic basket or
any bag that is heavy or requires the use of your hands. Select a small (waterproof)
rucksack and put your food and extra clothing in it.
Instead of reaching your destination and spreading out your lunch on the ground or
on a picnic table and settling down for a feast, winter picnics are best enjoyed by
munching and nibbling as you go along. Plan ahead; I always treat myself with an
advance trip to the grocery store to select small amounts of luxury nibblies I would
normally never buy. Nuts, for instance, are great for munching along the trail and
very filling. I stoke up on cashews, filberts and almonds. Pure milk chocolate,
broken into small chunks, is a wonderful treat for the kids. Fruits, like bananas and
apples, fit nicely into outside pockets and can be easily reached. Of course, a “trail
mix” containing nuts, seeds and dried fruit can be purchased almost anywhere. If
you plan to work up a sweat, put a sandwich in your outer pocket where you can
reach it.
On reaching your destination, whip a hot thermos of soup, tea or hot chocolate.
Personally I find that hot mushroom soup is a guaranteed winner on a cold winter’s
day; pour small servings into the lid of the bottle and savor the taste as you savor
the sight of a thundering wall of water. A reminder that “chunky soup” doesn’t pour
very well at all. Bottled water, of course, is always a must.
Finally, don’t forget your camera.
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Safety tips
Winter hiking is always wet hiking. Do NOT go hiking in sneakers or street shoes.
You will always regret it. In virtually all the hikes in this booklet you must hop, skip
or jump across small creeks, step in mud and puddles, or otherwise get your feet
wet. Then there is always the more dangerous aspect of slipping or falling when
crossing a creek in shoes with poor tread. Make sure you have good traction with
your shoes or boots before heading out. Sneakers just don’t work, and they don’t
provide the necessary ankle support needed for jumping over rocks.
When crossing deep creeks you will have to use rocks or logs as steppingstones.
Do not assume that a rock, even if it has obviously been placed there, is necessarily
stable. Unless it’s a boulder, test the rock out for a half-second before putting your
full weight on it. Water is constantly moving and may dislodge even big stones that
were once secure.
If children, the elderly or folks with poor balance are crossing a log or creek, it’s best
to lead them by the hand. The same rule applies on muddy hillsides and steep
paths; better safe than sorry. Single hikers should let others know their destination
and estimated time of return. A sprained or broken angle will not only ruin your day
but an overnight stay in the woods in the cold of winter can be fatal.
When hiking, enjoy the view frequently but always stop walking while you do it.
Walking while looking at the view adds up to a dangerous mix, especially on heights
or in muddy conditions. Relax, take your time, and stop when there is a view or
camera shot. If you ever feel a hill or section of trail is not safe to climb, simply turn
around. It’s never a good idea to get hurt miles from emergency help.
Hiking with kids
Children will always enjoy a walk in the woods much more if they can stop and play
along the way. Don’t be in a big hurry. Little boys will want to throw rocks in the
water and little girls may want to pick spring flowers. Build these constant
interruptions into your advance schedule.
The first time I saw a little girl fully equipped with knee high rubber boots and a rain
slicker with attached hood, playing in the pool near the bottom of a waterfall (it was
on a sunny day and there was really no need for raingear) I congratulated the
mother for her claver advance planning. The little girl was in heaven, splashing
about like she was at the beach. My own son watched with envy in his leather boots
while the girl waded through the creek. Plan ahead.
If you let your child play in the water, remember to keep a sharp eye or hand on
them at all times, especially near the top of a waterfall. It’s probably a good idea to
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have kids refrain from climbing rocks and cliffs too. What is an easy climb on a
warm summer day can be greasy and slippery in the winter.
Planning in advance also means bringing a separate pair of comfy shoes or slippers
for kids (and parents) to wear in the car on the way home. Maybe even a different
coat. Ruining your car with dirt or mud on the way home can ruin a good hike. Save
a final snack or bottle of water to savor on the way home too.
Hiking with dogs
Legally speaking, dogs are permitted ‘off leash’ on fire roads, and ‘on leash’ on trails
and paths while under voice command. Dog owners must have a leash for each
dog. However, I think it would be better for all concerned if all dogs were always
kept on a leash when hiking. The scent of wild animals may cause some dogs to
“spook,” and dogs running wild can annoy other hikers. Dogs will also “mark their
territory” wherever they go, running off the trail into woods and frightening the
smaller wild animals that live there away from their homes. Rabbits, for instance,
are seldom seen near trails in Marin anymore.
Small children are often afraid of big dogs too, no matter how friendly their owners
say those dogs are. Many “friendly dogs” will jump up on friendly strangers and lay
their muddy paws on their new friend’s clothes, an unfortunate event that has
happened to me more times than I can remember. A dog on a leash is a dog under
control.
A reminder to always clean up after your dog too; if you bring a dog on a walk in the
woods, bring baggies. There is nothing more distasteful than stepping in dog feces
in the woods and it doesn’t make many friends with non-dog hikers either. Certain
kinds of modern dog food do not decompose quickly. Leave no trace of your visit,
whether it is you or your dog.
Mileages and distance
I don’t know anybody who hikes with a pedometer, therefore distances on foot are
measured by time or by distance approximations. (i.e. “10 minutes walk, or a half
mile until the junction.”) All walks are taken a medium speed, not allowing for
stoppages. Distances driven in a car are measured more exactly when possible.
Whenever possible directions are given via signposts or immoveable objects like
bridges. Generally speaking it is very hard to get lost on any of these hikes if you
keep on the trail. If you get lost, it is always best to stay where you are rather than
to keep walking.
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Part 1: Eastern Marin County Falls
Bootjack Trail
Steep Ravine Trail just to the west of Bootjack Trail on the south slopes of Mt.
Tamalpais has been described by many as the “most beautiful coastal canyon in all
of California”. Whether that is true or not I don’t know. What I do know is that I think
Bootjack Trail is its equal, and – if you are going
strictly by the number of waterfalls – it has no
equal in Marin County.
From Highway 101 take the Mill Valley/Stinson
Beach exit and follow the Panoramic Highway
twelve miles towards the Pantoll Ranger Station.
About half a mile before Pantoll you’ll come
across Bootjack trailhead, picnic area and
parking lot. It’s $6 to park here, but you don’t
have much choice. There are 2 or 3 free parking
spots on the highway just past the parking lot (on
the south side of the road), otherwise it’s “no
parking anytime” along the Panoramic Highway
in this area. The trailhead is well equipped with
toilets and drinking fountain. Put your money in
the envelope and consider it the best money
you’ve ever spent.
A waterfall in deep and dark
Redwood Canyon
The trail starts across the highway, well marked with a sign. Note the “no dogs
allowed” sign, a sign that I have found to be universally ignored on every trail I have
ever hiked. The sign shows its 2.7 miles to Muir Woods at the bottom of the canyon,
or a 5-mile return hike on a very steep trail. Luckily there is no need to hike the
entire distance. It’s only half a mile to Van Wyck Meadow, where the trail really
begins.
Initially Bootjack descends steeply via a series of switchbacks, with little bridges
crossing over feeder creeks. Immediately you come across a sign on your right
pointing to Pantoll Ranger Station; keep going straight. You are in deep woods now
and can hear a creek running somewhere on your left but you can’t see it. This
steep section has lots of stairs built into the hillside to aid with footing. You come
across a signpost for Troop 80 Trail on your left. Keep going and soon you’ll arrive
at Van Wyck meadows. Its about fifteen minutes to get to this point.
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Van Wyck is a popular resting spot, where a giant boulder in the middle of a small
meadow allows for a hiker to wait for others to catch up, or to get your bearings.
From here signs point to Stapleveldt Trail to the west. Take a minute and meander
over here, where a little bridge crosses Redwood Creek. This is your first sighting of
the creek, and a series of tiny waterfalls.
Trails head in several directions. Take care to follow the sign, heading straight
downhill, to Muir Woods. Immediately the trail drops like a stone down a steep chute
of stairs, the creek on your right tumbling over a series of huge boulders that form a
series of small pools and tiny waterfalls. Huge redwood trees block out the sun, and
many have fallen across the creek, making this section of trail reminiscent of Steep
Ravine Trail. There are lots of tiny waterfalls following recent rains, and several little
bridges. This is a wonderful section of trail. Stop and enjoy the patterns of sunlight
dancing across the creek and through the majestic trees.
Next you cross Redwood Creek itself on a bridge where there are several small falls
visible. The creek is now on your left, and the trail drops steeply. Immediately you’ll
notice a section of creek where the water drops 100 feet in a series of falls, but
unfortunately you cannot get close to the creek here. Take great care if you try to
get close for a photo that you don’t lose your footing; the canyon is steep and full of
redwood duff and loose roots. There is a small side path that leaves the main trail to
get closer to the canyon where you can see a nice 30-foot fall. It is very deep and
dark here in this redwood canyon.
From here the path veers right into the woods, away from the creek, but take heart;
the best is yet to come. You can hear Redwood Creek roaring in the woods but you
can’t get close to it. Be patient. Magically a bench appears in the middle of the
woods; sit down a moment and catch your breath. The trail then does a big loop
through the woods and drops steeply down. Soon the view opens up to show
Redwood Canyon far below on your right. Voila! There it is, a scene out of Kaui! A
series of cataracts bounds and dances down the rainforest canyon and at the bottom
is another large bridge, where you pause and glory at the wonders of nature.
Waterfalls dance before and behind you. There are waterfalls galore, too many to
count. Cross the bridge and descend further, this time with the creek on your right.
There is a small side trail that accesses the stream, with a huge boulder upon which
to sit and watch the show. Further down the trail there is a bench to sit on. From
here you can watch several lovely 15-footers tumble and spray. This make a great
place to rest and have a bit and something to drink.
It’s another half a mile down to Muir Woods from here, but you have already hiked
two miles and it is a very steep hike back up the canyon again, so this might be the
best turnaround spot. Count on taking about an hour to get back up to the trailhead
at a steady pace, longer if you need to rest. I would tell you that I sprinted up to the
top but it would sound too much like boasting so I won’t. Besides, it’s not true. I
stopped and took photos on the way back. Make sure you do too. The section of
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trail just above the middle bridge, with its sunlight dancing among the redwoods, is a
bit warmer to stop and rest than down below.
An alternative to this route is to start at the bottom of Muir Woods and hike UP to the
Bootjack Trailhead high above on Panoramic Highway. This has two advantages.
Firstly, the fee for entrance to Muir Woods is only $3 and parking is free. Secondly,
it’s all downhill on the way back. Unfortunately, taking that route makes for an even
longer walk, and the crowds at Muir Woods are endless on weekends.
Kent Canyon Falls
Of all the waterfalls in Marin County,
this may be the hardest one to find
(except for Morse’s Gulch Falls
described in Volume One, where the
brambles ate me alive and I gave up).
References to Kent Canyon Falls in
guidebooks are virtually non-existent,
and no one I know has ever heard of it.
Yet there it is, hidden away all by its
lonely self, in Frank’s Valley just south
of Muir Woods. While Muir Woods get
millions of visitors a year, lonely Kent
Canyon Falls gets virtually none. It’s a
shame; while this is not booming
Cataract Falls, on a sunny day it’s a
nice little walk in the woods along a
lovely stream. However, finding it is
the problem.
Kent Canyon Falls
Firstly, drive to “Four Corners” high above Mill Valley on the Panoramic Highway.
Sequoia Valley Drive meets Panoramic Highway (also known as Shoreline Highway)
at Muir Woods Road, hence the “four corners” nickname.
To get there from Highway 101, take the Stinson Beach/Mill Valley exit and follow
the signs to Muir Woods. From downtown Mill Valley, drive along Miller Avenue east
to the Two O’clock Club at Montford Avenue and turn right. Follow the signs up the
steep hill to Panoramic Highway. (If you have never driven this section of road, it’s
a bit tricky. Montford become Molino, which becomes Edgewood which becomes
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Sequoia Valley Drive. Just stay on the main road. Also, DON’T follow the bike path
signs, which go a different direction. Follow the yellow line and you will be alright.)
From Four Corners follow the signs, and crowds, to Muir Woods, where the main
parking lot is usually jammed much of the year with tour buses and cars and the
overflow follows the road for a quarter mile. The road down to Muir Woods from
Four Corners is steep and tricky with no guardrails. Best to go slow and leave the
fantastic view to the passengers. As soon as the road meets the entrance to Muir
Woods it makes a hard left, south towards the ocean. Follow it.
From the Four Corners intersection to hidden Kent Canyon it is exactly 2.6 miles.
Set the odometer on your car and watch it carefully. There is no sign or notice to tell
you when you have arrived at Frank’s Valley or Kent Canyon. There is a reason for
this deliberate obscurity, but it took me several tries to find the reason. At exactly
2.6 miles you will come across two houses on your right. Immediately you see the
first one, stop before the driveway and park just off the road in the gravel. There is
only space for one or two cars.
Walk down the highway (south, towards the ocean in the distance) to the second
house, where there is a gravel road named Kerri Lane. A temporary sign is usually
stuck at the mouth of the lane marked “Authorized Vehicles Only.” However, since
you are on foot and not in a car you will have no problem. The house is occupied by
a ranger and a dog, and the ranger may come out and ask where you are going and
the dog may bark. No matter; you are on firm legal ground here. The public lane
leads to the waterfall, no matter what the ranger may say about “no waterfall on the
premises.”
The reason for all this obscurity is that there is a tiny shooting range along the trail to
the falls. Shooting ranges and hiking do not go well together. Neither do shooting
ranges and spotted owls, and the range is currently closed. According to the ranger,
in future a sign will be posted at the entrance to Kerri Lane - when the spotted owl
situation is resolved – if the shooting range is open. If the range is ever re-opened,
you can’t get to the falls.
Walk down Kerri Lane about 100 yards towards the barn. Just before the barn a
vague road turns right, then left after the barn, where it becomes readily identifiable
as a fire road. The fire road rises slightly in elevation as it enters the woods, with
Kent Creek babbling away on your left. After rains this can be a muddy road. Soon
the aforementioned (and abandoned) shooting range appears, which you cross
while keeping an eye out for spotted owls, and cross the creek. The creek is now on
your right.
Soon you come to some downed trees along the trail, but there is a vague path
veering off to the right towards the creek. Follow the path, right, past the downfall
and back to the main trail. The trail soon splits into two; the upper section heads
uphill to meander in the dead end of the canyon. Don’t go there. The lower path
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heads back to Kent Creek. Stay right. There are some more dead trees to traverse,
but you will come to the creek again. Cross it and pick up the trail on the other side.
About 100 yards ahead and to your left lie Kent Falls.
Kent Falls are not very impressive, but they are nice enough to spend a few minutes
having a bite to eat and it’s only a nice 15-minute walk in the woods to get here.
They are best, of course, after recent rains. It’s only a short walk to get back your
car, but be sure to head straight across the highway when you get back to it.
Redwood Creek is only a few yards away, and salmon spawn there in winter. Winter
after a rainfall is the only time to check out Kent Canyon, because only heavy rains
make the falls come alive. Otherwise, given how hard it is to find the place, you’d
never know there was anything there.
Cascade Falls,
Mill Valley
Wait a minute. Now you
are confused. You thought
Cascade Falls (described
in Volume One) was
located over in Fairfax?
Well, you are right. There
are actually two waterfalls
in Marin County with the
same name. Confusing
perhaps, but this one is
sure a lot easier to find and
certainly easier to find a
place to park.
From Highway 101 take the
Mill Valley exit and drive
right to the heart of this
lovely old town. You can
Cascade Falls at full volume
access downtown Mill
Valley either via Blithedale Avenue or via Miller Avenue. Either way, the center of
town is Throckmorton Street between Blithedale and Miller.
Once at Throckmorton and Miller, follow Throckmorton as winds its way south from
downtown, past Old Mill Park to the library and on to the end of the road at Cascade
Park. Throckmorton is a very pretty little road, just wide enough for two old
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Volkswagens to pass each other by without scraping paint. These days you will find
wealthy Mill Valley is jammed with Blazers, Bashers, Hummers and Hammers, so
drive slowly. Throckmorton winds its way up the hill and eventually degenerates into
something resembling a goat path, which is why God invented SUVs, and then you
are there. It’s only about a mile but five miles per hour appears to be the limit.
Cascade Park is clearly marked
with a big wooden sign and you
can’t miss it. There is room for
half a dozen cars in the parking
lot. It’s a short five-minute walk
through a lush redwood forest to
the falls, passing over a creek
along the way on a wooden
bridge. The path splits in two;
take the lower path along the
creek. The falls are audible
before you see them, a strong
The falls are easy to find
steady cataract falling 30 feet over
a cliff. A bench has been set in a small grove of redwoods trees across from the
falls to sit and watch the water flow.
This is truly a magical spot. Weddings and other ceremonies have been held here.
Bring a book and mediate over the wonders of nature. It’s a popular spot, though,
especially for dog walkers. Think of the lucky Mill Valley residents who are able to
come here whenever they want. Compared to Warner Falls on the other side of Mill
Valley (also described in Volume One), which requires a 30-minute trek through the
woods to a small set of falls that quickly ebb after a rain, Cascade Falls is a real
beauty easily found and readily appreciated.
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Little
Pacheco
Canyon
I have hiked the trail to
Pacheco Valle Falls
many times, and –
aside from autumn
when there is no water
left in the creek – I have
always enjoyed the
walk, rain or shine. It’s
a lovely little creek and
canyon, whether you
make it all the way to
the waterfalls at the end
or not. Several times I
Little Pacheco Canyon Falls
have noted a side trail and feeder creek heading off to the right but I have never
explored the side canyon until recently. What a pleasant surprise!
To get to Pacheco Valle Falls, take Highway 101 to the Alameda del Prado exit
(going north, it’s the first exit in Novato) and cross over to the west side of the
highway. Turn left (south) and drive along Alameda del Prado through the gorgeous
town home community of Pacheco Valle, all the way south to Pacheco Creek Drive.
Turn right at Pacheco Creek and drive half a mile to the end. Park here. There is
room for 3-4 cars.
Start your hike on the well-marked main trail, following Pacheco Creek for a few
hundred yards. Soon you come to creek crossing where another small creek enters
from the right. (Note: This small feeder creek, like most small creeks in Marin, dries
up a few months after the winter rains end). Cross Pacheco Creek and the feeder
creek, turn right and follow the feeder creek. The trail goes along the left side of the
feeder creek.
The trail slowly rises, creating a couple of tiny waterfalls when the flow is strong.
This side canyon has sunshine in the morning or early afternoon, but Big Rock
Ridge to the south blocks out the sun if you start out later in the day. You come to
your first waterfall after only 100 yards, a lovely 10-footer trickling down a rock face.
Another side creek enters from the right, but there is no trail to follow there. Stay
straight and follow the path up the hill.
You hop over the feeder creek and cross over a fallen tree and under a dead tree
and then slightly uphill, on your left just off the trail, there is a small canyon with a
nice 20-foot falls. You can scramble up the rocks to the right of the fall or go back to
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the trail, but as you ascend above the falls you come out into a tiny beautiful
meadow with several miniature waterfalls falling off rock faces. This is a perfect spot
for a Sunday brunch, but make sure you bring a groundsheet to cover the grass
because of the dampness.
It seems every creek gives off a sound all its own; hence the expression “babbling
brook.” Sit here for awhile here and listen to the tiny creek chattering its way down
this hidden valley. The trail still ascends, more steeply, now on the left side of the
creek, and soon you come to a third set of falls tumbling down a rock face. Another
50 feet brings you to a fourth set of small falls, this one a triple set. Here you are out
in the sunshine again, another perfect place for a picnic. Just above these upper
falls you finally get a view, and what a view it is! On a sunny day you can see all the
way to Mt. Diablo in the East Bay.
The trail continues uphill but the water flow soon diminishes and the creek splits into
two, so these upper falls are the place to rest, enjoy the view, turn around and head
back. Count on 15 minutes to get back down to the main Pacheco Valle Canyon
trail.
A final reminder: Smaller creeks like this one need a lot of water to create any
waterfalls. If you go hiking several weeks since the last rainfall, you may be
disappointed. Still, Little Pacheco Canyon always makes for a lovely hike as long as
there is any water in the creek.
15
The
Inkwells
If you are in the
Samuel P
Taylor Park
area, maybe
heading from
Roy’s Pool (see
chapter 20 in
Volme One of
Secret
Waterfalls of
Marin) in San
Geronimo where the
salmon can be The Inkwells on Lagunitas Creek
seen after early
winter rains jumping up the manmade waterfalls – over to Stairstep Falls in the
Devil’s Gulch section of the Park (see chapter 17 of Volume One), you might want to
stop for a moment and enjoy a lovely little section of San Geronimo Creek known to
locals as “the Inkwells.” Here a couple of very pretty small waterfalls can be found at
the confluence of Lagunitas and San Geronimo creeks.
To get to Samuel P Taylor Park, turn off Highway 101 at the San Anselmo exit and
follow Sir Francis Drake Boulevard about twelve miles to the tiny town of Lagunitas.
At the Lagunitas General Store, set your odometer to zero. Drive exactly .9 miles to
the Shafter Bridge, and turn left immediately at the end of the bridge. Park here in
the Leo Cronin Fish Viewing Area. This parking lot has room for at least a dozen
cars. Note the signs that allow only one hour parking during salmon viewing season
(November to February). Do NOT park on Sir Frances Drake at any time.
The tiny stream flowing by the parking lot is Lagunitas Creek, where migrating
salmon can be seen spawning after the first heavy rainfall of winter. About 5 inches
of rain are required to provide sufficient depth for the salmon to swim up the creeks
in Marin at the beginning of rainy season. The parking lot fills up quickly on
weekends as fish fanciers drive all the way from San Francisco to catch a glimpse of
this fabled species. A pair of river otters was spotted here recently, dining out on
salmon.
Walk from the parking lot over to the Shafter Bridge and cross the highway. An old
water pipeline has recently had a bikeway built across the top, allowing avid cyclists
to cross the creek here. Cross the bridge on foot and get a good look at the stream
in both directions, swollen in the winter after a good rain. With luck you might see a
migrating salmon swimming against the current.
16
Backtrack across the bridge and note the small path leading down to the creek.
Descend carefully to the water’s edge. Here a series of boulders in the middle of the
stream have created two nice little waterfalls, a picture perfect spot for a winter
picnic. Maybe a salmon will try to leap the falls while you are there. They spawn for
a period of about six weeks, starting from the first heavy winter rains.
The boulders also create a phenomenon known to locals as the Inkwells, two or
three small ponds in the middle of the river that are deep enough for swimming. In
summer local kids cool off from the heat by jumping into these pools for a quick dip.
Sadly, the Inkwells have also gained a reputation as a party spot for the local kids,
hence the graffiti and occasional beer can found on the premises. But in winter the
only creatures doing any swimming are the salmon, and the Inkwells are a great
spot to see them.
Part Two; Pt Reyes Hikes
All of the Pt Reyes waterfalls described in this e-book are courtesy of world class
mountain guide and expedition leader Phil Arnot, who has been exploring and
photographing Pt Reyes for over 50 years
Note: Many of these hikes must be done at low or minus tides only! They require
use and understanding of an accurate tide table. Tide books are available from the
Pt Reyes National Seashore headquarters at Bear Valley. Phone the Visitor Center
at 1-415-663-1092 and get a copy well in advance of planning any hikes along Pt
Reyes beaches. Tidal information is calibrated for San Francisco so take care to
subtract 30 minutes for Pt Reyes tides. When in doubt, leave for your hike early and
be ready in advance for the tides to ebb. Leave plenty of time to return before the
tide returns. Never get caught in an incoming tide. When in doubt of tidal flow,
double check with the rangers at the Visitor Center.
17
Pelican Falls
Note: This hike must only be done at a low or minus tide.
On the way to popular Alamere Falls north of Bolinas there is another secret
waterfall in a hidden cove that few people, except for scuba divers, seem to know
about. It requires a few miles walk along deserted Palomarin Beach to find it, but if
you do the hike you are sure to be alone except for the harbor seals that live at the
cove.
It’s a 5.4-mile hike along the Coast Trail to Alamere Falls from the Palomarin
Trailhead. On the hike you will pass by Bass and Pelican Lake. Pelican Lake drains
over a cliff down onto Double Point Cove. However, the cove is not accessible from
above via Coast Trail. You must access Double Point Cove via Palomarin Beach
from the south.
To get to the Palomarin trailhead follow Highway 1 south from Olema or north from
Stinson Beach. Take the Bolinas turn off and drive to Mesa Road just before you get
to the town of Bolinas. Turn right on Mesa Road and drive a few miles to a turnout
just short (about 500 yards) of the busy Palomarin trailhead parking lot. Park here at
the turnout. There is a day use trail (presently it is not marked by a sign) used by
scuba divers and others that leads down to the beach (maybe 500 yards). There are
often one or two cars parked here at this turnout. If there is no room at the turnout,
park at the trailhead and walk back.
After walking down the trail to Palomarin Beach, turn right and head along the beach
(north) past Abalone Point to Double Point. Note: You must do this hike at low or
minus tide. Round the point and you have arrived at Double Point Cove. It’s about
2.5 miles each way.
Here at the cove, which resembles a perfect semi-circle, there are usually harbor
seals basking on the rocks. Do not go into the cove during the months of March and
April since this is the season when seal pups are born. Do not approach the seals at
any time, if they are there. Stay away at least 200 feet. The National Park Service
does not encourage visits to this cove, or any of the three harbor seal rookeries in Pt
Reyes. Do not visit when the seals are pupping!
The falls are dead center in the semi-circular cove. Pelican Falls are not a freefall.
They tumble down from Pelican Lake on a 40-degree angle, falling about 100 feet.
Since the falls emanate from a lake they are perennial, but of course the flow is
much stronger after a heavy rain causes the lake to overflow.
Double Point Cove can also be accessed from the north via Wildcat Beach. To get
to Wildcat Beach you can take the Coast Trail from Palomarin trailhead and walk to
Wildcat Camp (5.5 miles). When you get to Wildcat Camp, walk down to the beach
18
and head left (south) one mile back to Alamere Falls. (Alamere Falls, and Wildcat
Beach below it, can also be reached by taking a shortcut down a steep cliff from the
Coast Trail right at Alamere Falls, which is a more difficult route).
Wildcat Camp can also be accessed via bicycle or foot from the Five Brooks
trailhead at Olema. It’s a 6.2-mile ride. Bring a good map (you can download a free
Pt Reyes bike trail map from the National Parks Service) and follow the Stewart Trail
to Fir Top Ridge - a stiff 1100-foot elevation gain - and down to the Coast Trail and
on to Wildcat Camp.
The point separating Double Point Cove from Wildcat Beach requires a rock
scramble. It must be done at low or minus tides only. Take great caution with all
rock scrambles, do not hike alone, and notify friends of your destination and
estimated time of return. Most cellphones do not work in this remote area. A fall or
tumble at this remote beach can lead to serious consequences. Exercise caution at
all times when climbing slippery rock faces.
19
Alamere Falls
Alamere Falls is the
most beautiful, and
therefore best known, of
all Pt Reyes waterfalls.
It’s an 11-mile hike,
round trip from
Palomarin, and
camping is NOT
permitted at the falls
(nearby Wildcat Camp
is the nearest
designated campsite,
and reservations must
be made in advance).
It’s a long way to any
Alamere Falls, Pt. Reyes - Photo by Phil Arnot
starting point from east
or central Marin and the parking lot at the Palomarin trailhead can be full on busy
long weekends, so best to set out early if you plan to do this hike in one day. (Some
lodging is available in Bolinas.)
To get to the Palomarin trailhead, follow Highway 1 south from Olema or north from
Stinson Beach. Take the Bolinas turn off and drive to Mesa Road just before you get
to the town of Bolinas. Turn right on Mesa Road and drive a few miles until the road
becomes gravel. Continue on to the parking lot.
Starting from Palomarin trailhead, the Coast Trail to Alamere falls goes straight for a
few miles then veers (right) inland just before Abalone Point. You will then pass
Bass Lake (good swimming) and Pelican Lake on your left. An unmarked trail just
past Pelican Lake (left) leads (west) uphill to a great view above Double Point Cove
far below.
The Coast Trail continues north past Pelican Lake. Just past the unmarked trail to
the overlook is a “use trail” down to Alamere Falls. (you come to a short cliff and
descend via handholds and you arrive at Alamere creek, which you must cross with
a jump. Taking this path means you will come out ABOVE the falls. It’s a great view
from here, and a steep trail to the right (north) a “use trail” rises up a few feet and
then down to the beach.
The Coast Trail continues north past Alamere Falls, and soon comes to a fork. To
the left is the Ocean Lake Loop Trail, passing Wildcat Lake and Ocean Lake. The
right fork is the Coast Trail. The Coast Trail involves much less up and down
climbing. Both lead to Wildcat Camp and access to the beach. When on Wildcat
Beach turn left and it’s a one-mile walk back (south) to Alamere Falls. There is a
restroom at Wildcat Camp. Here on the beach, depending on the tide, you can see
20
the wide cataract tumbling straight onto the beach or into the ocean. After heavy
rains in the spring it’s a spectacular sight.
There is no water at the Falls and no washroom facilities along the way. Do NOT
drink from any creeks. Bring all the supplies you need for the day and leave plenty
of time to hike back to the Palomarin Trailhead. Then it’s a 20-30 minute drive back
to Bolinas and another hour back to eastern Marin.
Phantom Falls
Note; this hike must be done at a
low tide
Phantom Falls are found less than a
mile north of Alamere Falls on Wildcat
Beach. Follow the instructions to
Alamere Falls found in the previous
chapter. Either you walk in from
Palomarin trailhead (6 miles) or cycle in
(6.2 miles) from Five Brooks trailhead
just south of Olema. You can also get
to Wildcat Beach via Bear Valley,
taking the Glen Camp Loop trail where
it veers off the main Bear Valley trail to
Arch Rock (you can cycle from Bear
Valley Visitor Center to this point and
lock your bike). Or you can continue
from Bear Valley straight to Arch rock,
cross Coast Creek on a bridge, and
then walk to Wildcat Camp from there. Phantom Falls - Photo by Phil Arnot
This route involves a very scenic climb
of 800 feet.
However you arrive at Wildcat Camp, instead of heading left (south) back to Alamere
Falls, as most people do - you’ll come across a spectacular waterfall falling off a
sheer cliff some 100 feet in height. Whereas Alamere Falls is a very broad and
powerful stream about 30 feet high and almost as wide in full spring flow, Phantom
Falls is a thinner but much higher cascade, somewhat reminiscent of a smaller
Yosemite.
21
One reason why Phantom Falls is almost unknown is that it flows only in the spring
after heavy rains. Whereas Alamere is fed by a perennial stream that varies
according to the rains, there is no regular creek flowing into Phantom Falls. One day
the falls are here, a few months later they are gone. Usually by mid-April the falls are
dry, leaving only clusters of monkey flowers growing in the moisture dripping down
from the high cliffs.
Aside from Wildcat Camp, there is no overnight camping allowed in this area. It’s
about a 12-mile round trip hike from Palomarin to get to this waterfall and back, so
leave plenty of time to return to your starting point.
It must be a minus .02 tide to do this hike.
Horsetail
Falls
Note; this hike
requires a low or
minus tide.
If Phantom Falls is
virtually unknown, then
Horsetail Falls are
totally unknown. Found
further north of
Phantom Falls along
the same wild stretch of
beach, they can best be
accessed by way of
Wildcat Camp. Simply
hike the mile to
Phantom Falls from
Wildcat Camp and keep
going another half mile.
Horsetail Falls - Photo by Phil Arnot
Horsetail Falls are also seasonal, cascading 30-40 feet down high cliffs onto the
beach. After a winter rain they are equally spectacular to Phantom Falls, gushing
directly onto Wildcat Beach.
There is another access point to Horsetail Falls that is much shorter than the 14 mile
round trip from Five Brooks, or the 12-mile round trip walk from Palomarin Trailhead.
22
However, this short cut requires exact knowledge of tide tables and access points.
Essentially, this hike starts from Arch Rock at Miller Point, the very popular
destination overlooking Kelham Beach that is reached from Bear Valley at the park
headquarters near Olema.
From Bear Valley you can walk or cycle two miles to Divide Meadow, lock your bike,
and walk the rest of the way to Arch Rock at Miller Point. This amazing promontory
allows fantastic views of the Pacific Ocean and Kelham Beach below to the right
(north). At the bottom of the great promontory you will find Arch Rock, where Coast
Creek makes a mad dash through the arch and onto the beach.
If you access a small beach to the south of Arch Rock by crossing over Coast Creek
- a slippery and dangerous access when the water is high – there is a sandy beach
with mixed rock a few hundred feet long. At the end of this beach is the entrance to
hidden Miller Cave. This cave’s entrance is accessible at very low tide, and an exit
at the rear of the cave (south) allows access to Wildcat Beach.
Under no circumstances should anyone attempt to enter this cave without a
guidebook or an excellent understanding of Pt Reyes tides. Better yet, read pages
26-28 of Phil’s Secret Places and Magic Moments for a better understanding of the
risks (and rewards) involved in exploring sea caves.
A reminder that if you plan to return via Miller Cave, keep a sharp eye on your tide
book. This is not a place where you want to get stuck.
Kelham Beach Cascade
Kelham Beach is located about one mile north of Arch Rock. You get to Kelham
from the Bear Valley Visitor Center. It is a simple and fairly flat trail on which you
can ride your bike almost all the way to the beach.
Start by taking the Bear Valley Trail from the Visitor Center and walking or cycling
3.2 miles to the junction of three trails, where you lock your bike and proceed on foot
one mile to Arch Rock. Shortly before you get to Arch Rock the trail splits. Going
straight leads to Arch Rock, but turning northwestward onto the Coast Trail is the
way to the Kelham Beach Trail. It’s about a mile from the Arch Rock turnoff to the
trail down to Kelham Beach. The turn to the beach is marked by a sign and a huge
23
eucalyptus tree. As you hike along Coast Trail you’ll pass Sky Trail on the way,
coming in from the right, but continue straight to the giant tree.
Turn left at the giant eucalyptus and head down to the beach. As you hit the beach,
about 20 feet to your left you’ll find a perennial cascade, fed by Kelham Creek from
above. It is a modest cascade, not a freefall, tumbling down the cliff in a 4-foot wide
path, which gets wider during heavy winter or spring rains.
Kelham is a small stretch of beach, bounded by Arch Rock to the south and Point
Resistance to the north. It is not possible at any time to hike past Point Resistance
to Secret Beach to the immediate north.
Surprise
Falls
This seasonal fall really
has no name and is not
found on any maps, but
since it is located on
Kelham Beach and you
come upon it suddenly
we’ll call it Surprise
Falls. This waterfall is
found less than a halfmile from the point
where the Kelham
Beach access trail
comes down onto the
beach.
Turn southward when
you come onto the
beach and in less than
a mile you come to
Surprise Falls - Photo by Phil Arnot
where the beach
narrows and the cliffs are closer to the sea. It is here at the first of the cliffs that this
seasonal free fall can be found. Surprise Falls is a seasonal falls, about 2-3 feet
wide during runoff. It is only full during winter rains.
24
You can also get to Kelham Beach via Arch Rock and these two falls by going
through the Sea Tunnel underneath the Arch (a tricky little traverse) or down to the
sandy beach via a rock climb over the creek. You can then walk north to Kelham
Beach but only at a low tide.
The Showerbaths at Secret Beach
Note: This hike
can only be done
at minus low
tides.
The Shower Baths
are found on
seldom-visited
Secret Beach.
There is a reason
why it is called
Secret Beach; it’s
almost impossible
to get to this beach
from any direction. Shower Baths at Secret Beach - Photo by Phil Arnot
It is accessible
only from the north and a low tide. Finding these secret waterfalls, without exact
directions, would be impossible. There are no access trails down to Secret Beach
from Coast Trail high above. The access from the south via Kelham Beach is
permanently blocked, even at low tides, by the towering cliffs of Point Resistance.
Even from the north the trail via Sculptured Beach is very difficult to find.
The shortest and easiest approach to Secret Beach and the two Showerbath Falls is
from the Limantour Beach parking lot (a very large lot with plenty of space for many
cars). To get to Limantour Beach you drive a well-paved road that commences a
mile north of the Bear Valley Information Center just past Olema. From Pt Reyes
Station head towards Inverness, turn left at Inverness Park junction to Olema, and
right again to Limantour Beach. It’s about a 15-minute drive to Limantour Beach
from Bear Valley.
25
From the Limantour trailhead, hike south two miles along the beach to Coast Camp
(not visible from the beach except for the top of a tall eucalyptus tree). The last halfmile of that trail is not a safe path during high tides or storms, however. An
alternative is to hike in from Arch Rock along the coast trail, past Kelham Beach and
then north to the Sculptured Beach access trail, about 6.5 miles.
At Coast Camp there is an overnight camp with restrooms and campsites that can
be reserved through the Visitor Center. Continue from Coast Camp south down to
Sculptured Beach.
Upon reaching the Sculptured Beach access trail (a wooden staircase comes onto
the beach from the left, or inland) continue to, and over, a short 4-foot rock
promontory. A short descending rock climb of about 6 feet takes one to the beach or,
from the east end of the promontory one can jump 3 feet down onto the sand.
Proceed down Sculptured Beach to the end where there is a promontory and a
prominent offshore rock. Head for this promontory and you will find a small crack in
the wall about 4-5 feet long, or "the keyhole,” which is large enough for a person to
easily pass through and access Secret Beach. This keyhole can only be accessed at
low or minus tides! Do not attempt this hike at medium or high tides. Be warned
that, even at low tides, the keyhole will close behind you when the tide rises.
Consult your tidal charts. The tide moves slowly both in and out, and when it
changes it does so very gradually and not with a rush. A reminder that winds can
create heavy waves even at low tides
The other side of the Keyhole consists of a 20-30 foot sestion of slippery rocks,
impassable at high tides. You are now on Secret Beach, and rewarded with a huge
surprise. A secret cave is found immediately to the left. Secret Cave is one of the
great wonders of Pt Reyes National Seashore.
The entrance to the cave is about 20 feet long but only about five feet high. Once
inside, the cave has a circumference of about 35-40 feet. Strangely enough,
although the cave is about 90-feet high, it has no ceiling. The walls are completely
perpendicular. In fact, you are standing in some sort of natural amphitheatre. It’s an
amazing place.
The first Showerbath is found about 200 yards down the beach from the Secret
Cave. A ten-foot seasonal cascade drops down a sheer rock face on to the beach
below. About 75 yards down the beach a second 12-foot waterfall cascades down
the cliff face and shoots out onto the sand, a fine place to stand and enjoy the spray.
Both falls are seasonal and lose their affect by early summer.
It is essential that this hike be done at a minus low tide (preferably -1.5 or lower) and
that you reach The Keyhole about the time the tide peaks low. One needs to consult
a tide book. They are calibrated for SF Bay and the correction figure for Pt. Reyes
National Seashore in this vicinity is about minus 30 minutes. So if the minus tide
26
peaks low in San Francisco Bay at 1 pm, you should arrive at The Keyhole about
12.30 PM.
With a minus low tide on Secret Beach and having arrived at the moment of the
peak (or a little beforehand, actually) there is plenty of time to explore the waterfalls
and even the Secret Cave. There are two "escape routes" up the cliffs along Secret
Beach but they are hard to describe and better left alone and there is no need to put
oneself in an escape situation. Simply leave when you must.
The Unknown
Coast Perennial Fall,
Ribbon Falls
and Seasonal
Falls
So far all the waterfalls
described in this book
have been located on the
southern end of Pt
Reyes, from Bolinas to
Limantour Beach. Now
we take a big jump to the
northern end of Pt Reyes,
towards Tomales Point,
the most obscure and
least visited areas of Pt
Reyes. It is not listed on
any maps, but the
Unknown Coast is that
section of coastline
between Kehoe Beach
and McClures Beach on
the northwest tip of the
peninsula. This is wild
and rugged territory and
The Unknown Coast - Photo by Phil Arnot
27
care must be taken to consult tidal charts and accurate maps before setting forth on
any hikes here.
Note: The following hike is a true adventure. It can only be done at minus tide (0.2
or lower) and therefore requires serious advance planning. Very few minus tides
occur when you want them to. In fact, many occur only in the early mornings or late
at night. Plan well ahead and be ready to start your hike early in the day if need be.
There are two and a half miles of wild and rocky coastline to explore on the
Unknown Coast, with four sandy beaches, giant “keyholes” through rock
promontories, tidal pools, brilliant white granite boulders, steep cliffs and fabulous
Elephant Rock and Elephant Cave. Plus three wonderful waterfalls, of course,
including a perennial falls that, at 125 feet, is the highest on the entire Pt Reyes
coastline.
To access this hike, drive from Pt Reyes Station to Inverness, then head west
towards Pt Reyes lighthouse. (Note: You may need two vehicles for this trip.) A few
miles west of Inverness, turn north (right) at Pierce Point Road. When you come to
a fork on the road, where the right fork goes right to Marshall Beach Road, stay left
on Pierce Point Road and drive a few miles past the Abbott Lagoon Trailhead to
Kehoe Beach access. Park here. There are washroom facilities.
If your tide tables have clearly indicated a minus tide of 0.7 or lower (with the times
adjusted from San Francisco, where they are measured) plan to arrive at Kehoe
Beach an hour before the peak of the low tide. There are four promontories to pass
through between Kehoe Beach and McClures Beach, and they will be under water
(between 4-18 inches) even at low tide. Wear appropriate footwear and clothing
and plan to get wet. If the seas are stormy on the day of your hike then you are out
of luck. If the tide begins to turn and you are still on the route you must climb these
promontories, which is dangerous. Plan to complete this trek before the tide turns.
If not, you will be trapped for up to 7 hours on the cliffs!
Warning: The beaches along the Unknown Coast are very narrow and provide no
retreat. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT BECOME TRAPPED. Plan to start your trip at
least 60 minutes before the maximum low tide and you will be able to complete the
entire trip, but ONE WAY only, going north. So you will end your hike at McClures
Beach, requiring the use of a second vehicle to get back. (See, nobody said this
would be simple or easy). So park a second vehicle at the McClures Beach access
or else you will have to walk back along the road a few miles to your car at Kehoe
Beach.
Preparation: You are going to get your feet and pants wet. Prepare for this
inevitability by bringing a second set of shoes and pants in a small backpack.
Sneakers are perhaps the best type of shoes for this water walk. Scuba diving boots
may be the next best design. Hiking boots are not designed to get completely
28
soaked. When you finish the hike at McClures Beach, change into your second set
of shoes and pants.
It might also be a nice idea to keep a third set of “street clothes” back in your car, in
order to avoid importing sand and dirt into your vehicle. Remember that you are a
long way from civilization up here, so hot beverages and good food are a nice
reward after your hike.
To start the hike:
Drive to McClures Beach parking lot. Leave a pick-up car(s). There are rest rooms
available. Drive back to the Kehoe Beach parking shoulder (about 12 minutes.)
Walk the trail to the beach (it’s about 15-20 minutes).
When you get to the beach, turn north on the beach. Make sure you get there about
45-60 minutes before the tide is scheduled to peak low. Hike for about one mile to
"The Keyhole" that is located at the First Promontory. It looks just like a giant key.
There is sand at first, and boulders for the last 125 yards. The Keyhole now has a
chockstone in it but one can get through. (Very large people might not be able to
squeeze through.)
Exit the Keyhole onto big slippery boulders with a slight downward slope for 100 feet
onto a beach that will probably be covered with about 6-15 inches of seawater.
Wade to the right at the base of the north side of the first promontory in which the
Keyhole is located. You will reach the beach (free of sea water) in about 50 yards.
Hike along a mostly sandy beach to the south-facing wall of the obvious Second
Promontory (its about 300 yards). Move along the south face of the second
promontory until to you come to an obvious opening east of the tip of the
promontory. You pass through the opening, filled with a mixture of shallow tide
pools, seaweed, and sand. There is one deep pool (about 2-4 feet deep) with a
sandy bottom. Immediately at the north end of the pool is a wide opening leading to
the third beach (counting the first beach as Kehoe Beach).
Hike north on this beach and you will encounter a perennial waterfall about 300
yards from the opening of the second promontory. Proceeding up the beach you will
find that it narrows somewhat and within 400 yards you will find two seasonal
waterfalls. One is about 125 feet high. In winter and spring the falls will be active.
Beyond the waterfalls you will be on rock that requires boulder hopping. In about a
mile from the perennial fall you come to the Third Promontory in which you find
Elephant Cave. Elephant Rock stands 200 yards or less off shore, so-called
because of its appearance. At very low tides one can pass around the west end of
the promontory. Walk to the right, to the where the promontory meets the line of cliffs
that you have been following (to your right) and will see a hole some 10-14 feet
29
above the sandy beach. The climb up to the hole is easy and as you pass through
the hole you enter Elephant Cave. The sea is about 100 feet at the west end of the
well-lighted cave. Elephant Cave is about 75-feet long and about five feet high. You
can see the opening at the end of the cave at all times, so a flashlight is not
required. Duck your head and go through.
Exit the cave and turn north onto a sandy beach with mixed rock. This beach indents
slightly to the east and then turns in about 50-60 yards to the Fourth Promontory.
Pass along the south wall for a short distance (this promontory is truncated and
protrudes to the west much less than the first three promontories). You turn past this
promontory, walking over kelp and through tide pools that might come up to your
waist at the most.
Upon turning this fourth promontory you come immediately onto a sandy beach
leading in 150 yards to a large and Fifth promontory. At this point one has actually
completed the Unknown Coast hike because at the east end of the promontory there
is large and easy passage onto McClures Beach. Once on McClures Beach you
hike on sand and around some large boulders for 300 yards to where you will see,
on your right, an obvious trail exiting onto the beach. Take the trail for 3/4 mile to the
McClures Beach parking lot and the pick-up cars. There is a phone and restroom at
McClures Beach.
30
About Phil Arnot
A native California, Phil Arnot is an
active and highly regarded
mountaineer, explorer and
photographer. He has explored
extensively in the Olympic Mountains
of Washington, the Cascades of
Oregon and Washington, the High
Sierra of Yosemite and Sequoia
National Parks, New Zealand and
South America.
Phil has made over 200 ascents
including Mt. McKinley and hiked
over 8000 miles of trail and off-trail in
the wilderness. Now aged 80, Phil
formerly led commercial wilderness
trips throughout the western USA,
Alaska and Pt Reyes National
Phil Arnot
Seashore. He is still active in
mountain climbing and hiking with friends and family.
For more information on Phil Arnot or to purchase samples of his photography, log
on to www.philarnot.com
To buy his book click on: Pt Reyes, Secret Places and Magic Moments
Other books by Phil Arnot
The High Sierra; John Muir’s Range of Light
Yosemite Valley; Secret Places and Magic Moments
Mystique of the Wilderness (currently in revision)
Exploring Pt. Reyes (with Elvera Monroe)
Run for Your Life
San Francisco, a City to Remember (photography).
31
Hiking Links
Marin County Parks http://www.co.marin.ca.us/depts/PK/Main/pos/parklist.cfm
Marin County Open Space District http://www.marinopenspace.org
Muir Woods National Monument http://www.nps.gov/muwo/
Marin Municipal Water District http://www.marinwater.org
Golden Gate National Recreation Area http://www.nps.gov/goga
Point Reyes National Seashore http://www.nps.gov/pore
Marin Trails http://www.marintrails.com/
National Weather Service, Western Regional Headquarters
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/
The Bay Area Weather Page http://www.weatherpages.com/bayarea/
SF Gate Weather http://www.sfgate.com/weather/
Hiking Clubs and Organizations
Wednesday Sierra Club Hiking Group
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~mullerosborn/HIKETAM.html
Sierra Club SF Bay Chapter Hiking Section
http://www.sierraclub.org/chapters/sanfranciscobay/Hiking/
Sierra Club Loma Prieta Chapter Dayhiking Section
http://www.sierraclub.org/chapters/lomaprieta/dayhiking/
Mount Tamalpais Interpretitive Association http://www.mttam.net/
California Alpine Club http://www.calalpine.org
Greenbelt Outings http://www.greenbelt.org/getinvolved/outings/index.html
Cal Hiking and Outdoor Society http://www.uc-hiking-club.berkeley.ca.us/
Bay Area Orienteering Club http://www.baoc.org/
Pacific Trail Society http://www.geocities.com/pacifictrailsociety/
Santa Cruz Mountain Trail Association http://www.stanford.edu/~mhd/trails/
East Bay Barefoot Hikers http://www.unshod.org/ebbfhike/
Intrepid Northern California Hikers (INCH) http://www.rawbw.com/~svw/inch/
Buddy Up http://www.buddyup.com
Confused http://www.confused.org
Bay Area Hiking at Yahoo Groups http://www31.pair.com/hiking/bayareahiking/
Absolute Adventures http://www.absoluteadv.com
FOM/FOK Hiking Group http://www.webself.com/~fomfok
Bay Area Jewish Singles Hiking Club http://www.bajshc.org
Hiking North of SF Bay http://www.hikenorthbay.com/index.html
girlsAdventureOUT http:www.girlsadventureout.com
Hiking Clubs in the San Francisco Bay Area http://www.geocities.com/evbuck
Bay Area Outdoor Adventurers Club http://www.sfoac.com/
Berryessa Hikers http://www.sonic.net/berryessatrails
Women's East Bay Hiking Group http://www.womenhiking.org/
East Bay Casual Hiking Group http://hiking.bondon.com
32
Please send any corrections regarding directions, mileages, spellings, or factual errors to the editor at
info@intentional-traveler.com. Due to the nature of Marin's rainfall and instant waterfalls, this e-book
was necessarily written in a brief period of time in early 2005. Additions and corrections will be made
shortly and posted to future copies as soon as possible. Thank you.
33

Secret Waterfalls of Marin-Volume 2 Alamere Falls, Pt. Reyes

Transcription

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