cookbook - NAILS Mag
Transcription
cookbook - NAILS Mag
the cookbook [recipes and ingredients for creating your ultimate signature salon services] Peek Inside: manicures p. 2 pedicures p. 13 bb08_cookBook-Cover.indd 75 11/4/08 4:01:05 PM manicures Vanilla Latte Manicure Created by MiniLuxe Nail and Beauty Lounge, Newton, Mass. Ingredients 1. Remove old polish, soak the client’s fingers, and apply cuticle eliminator. 2. Open a fresh package of implements. Prep nails. 3. Exfoliate hands with LaLicious Coffee Bean Sugar Soufflé Scrub. 4. Massage hands and arms with LaLicious Vanilla Body Butter. 5. Clean nails with alcohol. 6. Apply base coat and polish. (Optional) To continue the theme, use OPI’s Los Angeles Latte or Espresso Your Style. Apply top coat. 7. Allow the client to dry her hands at the drying bar and apply OPI Drip Dry to nails. • LaLicious Coffee Bean Sugar Soufflé Scrub and Vanilla Body Butter • cuticle eliminator • polish • base coat • top coat • OPI Drip Dry Created by Extremedys 2012, West Hollywood, Calif. 1. Place Minx under the Minx Heater and prep the nails. Then take a Minx nail template and size it to match your client’s nail bed. Make a record of each client’s size. 2. Clean the nail bed with a lint free pad and rubbing alcohol; do not use acetone. Remove the Minx nail from the backing sheet and hold under the heat until the product visibly softens. Apply Minx to the center of the nail bed and work out towards the sides, cuticle to free edge. 3. Once all the nails are applied, file off the excess material with a Minx Crystal File. Be sure not to file over the top of Minx. Allow the product to cool for 20 seconds before you file. 4. Under heat, apply even pressure to each nail, starting from the center and working out to the edges. Then check each nail and smooth out where needed. Use an orangewood stick to help smooth out the nail. 5. Once the nails meet your approval, ask the client to self check the application. bb08_cookBook.indd 76 Minx Nail Coatings Ingredients • Minx Lamp • Minx Nail Templates • rubbing alcohol and pad • crystal file 4/8/09 1:27:34 PM BB08_YoungNailsGlitter. manicures Dress to Impress Ingredients • small metal utensils (paper clips work as well) • Young Nails Pink and Black Acrylic, Artistic Nail Form, and Finish Sealer Created by DaLonnie’s Hair & Nail Studio, Las Vegas 1. Purchase small metal utensils at a local craft store that will make nice impressions on the nail. Paper clips can be used as well. Try bending them into interesting designs. 2. Dip impression tools into acrylic powder so the wet acrylic won’t stick to the tool. 3. Apply a layer of Young Nails Pink Acrylic, and while it is still wet press the impression tool into the acrylic and remove immediately, leaving an impression. 4. Sculpt the free edge with Young Nails Black Acrylic. 5. Press the impression tool into the black acrylic and remove immediately, leaving an impression. 6. Pinch a C-curve into the nail. Apply black acrylic and silver glitter and acrylic to the impressions on the nail. 7. File off the excess acrylic and shape the nail. 8. Apply Young Nails Finish Sealer for a high shine. Created by The Palms Nail Bar & Spa, Salem, N.H. 1. Sanitize the client’s (and your own) hands with coconut-scented hand sanitizing gel. 2. Place the client’s hands in a pineapple-shaped bowl that contains warm, tropical-blended oils (coconut, lime, and tangerine). 3. Prep the nails. 4. Exfoliate hands and lower arms with Qtica Smart Spa Exotic Mango Sugar Scrub. Melt the scrub off by rinsing hands off in the coconut bowl. 5. Wrap California Mango Mud Mask Extreme Crème over the client’s arms and hands; then wrap the hands in hot towels that are scented with citrus essential oils. 6. Rinse off the mask. 7. Massage arms and hands using Essie’s Kiwi Lime or Coconut Pineapple lotion. 8. Polish nails. bb08_cookBook.indd 78 Tropical Spa Manicure Ingredients • California Mango Mudd Mask Extreme Crème, Mango Magic Cuticle Treatment Oil, and Natural Cuticle Softener • coconut, lime, tangerine, and citrus essential oils • Qtica Smart Spa Exotic Mango Sugar Scrub • Essie lotion (Kiwi Lime or Coconut Pineapple) • polish, base coat, top coat 4/8/09 1:27:37 PM BB08_OPI.indd 1 manicures Zen Manicure Created by Yuko System Salon, Beverly Hills, Calif. 1. Soak the client’s hands in either green tea or cherry blossom water (their choice). 2. Exfoliate the client’s hands using Phi Ten USA Green Tea Scrub. 3. Brush hands with paraffin for softness. Leave on for 5-10 minutes. 4. Using stress stones, perform a hot stone massage. 5. File, shape, and polish the nails. 6. Do a final hand massage with Phi Ten USA Green Tea Lotion. Ingredients • green tea • cherry blossoms • Phi Ten USA Green Tea Scrub and Lotion Created by Heart’s Content Nail Spa, Belgrade, Maine • paraffin • stress stones • polish • base coat, top coat Fallen Leaves and Cider Manicure 1. To create the scrub, stir together the sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, apricot kernel oil, jojoba oil, almond oil, and apple oil. Pour the minced apple on top. Serve hot apple cider to your client. 2. Soak hands in warm water. Add a cinnamon stick and a soaking tablet that you’ve sprinkled with apple oil or nutmeg to the soak. 3. Prep nails. 4. Exfoliate hands with the homemade autumn apple pie scrub. 5. Massage hands and arms with CND’s Scentsations (in Apple & Cinnamon). 6. Polish nails. • 3/4 cup brown sugar • 1 tsp. ground cinnamon OR 2 drops cinnamon essential oil • cinnamon stick • 1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg OR Vinomanicure Ingredients 2 drops nutmeg essential oil • 3 tsp. apricot kernel oil • 3 tsp. jojoba oil • 2 tsp. almond oil • 1/2 fresh apple, minced • 1/8 tsp. apple oil (optional) • soaking tablet • CND Scentsations Lotion (in Apple & Cinnamon) Created by Zi Spa & Salon, Coeur d’Alene, Idaho 1. Steep the client’s hands in Napa Valley Spa Grapeseed Bath Tea. 2. Exfoliate hands with Napa Valley Spa Grapeseed and Rosemary Scrub. 3. Massage in Napa Valley Lavender Grapeseed Lotion. 4. Perform a hot stone massage. 5. Dip hands in, then remove paraffin to lock in moisture. 6. Prep nails. 7. Apply base coat, two coats of polish, and top coat. Ingredients bb08_cookBook.indd 80 • Napa Valley Spa brand Grapeseed Bath Tea, Grapeseed and Rosemary Scrub, and Lavender Grapeseed Lotion • hot stones • paraffin • polish • base coat • top coat 4/8/09 1:27:40 PM BB08_CND.indd 1 manicures Full-Coverage Nails Ingredients • acetone • Q-tip • Prescription Nails Starter Kit: Skin Shield, Rapid Bond Glue, Bond Accelerator, nail sizers, full-coverage nails, Start Right pH Balancer Created by Dashing Diva (multiple locations) 1. Sanitize your and your client’s hands. Remove polish and clean the nail plate with acetone. Push back the cuticles. This is crucial to obtain an accurate fit. 2. Organize the nail sizers by arch and C-curve. Measure the client’s side arch, C-curve, and width of each nail. Arrange the nails in the proper order. 3. Prep the nail bed by lightly buffing the nail plate with a 180- to 240-grit file to remove shine. (You can trim the natural nail down or leave the nails the original length.) Remove dust with a nail brush, then apply Start Right pH Balancer, or any pH balancing agent, to the nail plate. 4. With a Swipie or a Q-tip, apply Skin Shield to the exposed areas around the nail bed. 5. Apply Rapid Bond Glue to the bottom third of the full-coverage nail. Slowly lower the nail onto the nail plate at a 45-degree angle and hold it in place for five seconds. 6. Using a Swipie or Q-tip, clean any excess glue from around the nail and under the free edge. 7. Holding the finger angled downward, apply Bond Accelerator around the base of the nail near the cuticle and under the free edge. 8. Cut and shape the nails to the length and shape the client desires. 9. (About two weeks later) When it’s time for removal, the client can either soak off the nails in acetone at home or in your salon. In the salon environment, a Sonic Touch Nail Remover, an ultrasonic nail remover that safely warms acetone, gives the client the fastest soak-off time. Created by Painted Red Nails, Osterville, Mass. 1. Sanitize hands, remove polish, and shape nails. 2. Exfoliate your client’s hands, arms, and elbows with Belle Luce Cranberry Fig Sugar Scrub. 3. Rinse in warm water. (For a special touch, you can add fresh cranberries floating around in warm water in a pretty bowl.) 4. Pat excess water off, leaving hands slightly moist. 5. Create a paste by combining a small amount of Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Cream with a few drops of water. Gently press the paste into the client’s hands and arms. (No need to scrub.) 6. Use a steamy warm towel to gently remove the paste. 7. Pat dry and, using pure raw organic almond oil, perform a thorough hand and arm massage. (Don’t miss the elbows.) 8. Prep nails (nipping hangnails as needed) and polish. bb08_cookBook.indd 82 Cranberry Almond Cleansing Manicure Ingredients • Belle Luce Cranberry Fig Sugar Scrub • Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Cream • fresh cranberries • pure raw organic almond oil • base coat • top coat • polish 4/8/09 1:27:44 PM BB08_EstelinaAging.indd manicures The Stiletto Created by Lynn Lammers, Redlands, Calif. 1. Shape and file the natural nails. Remove the surface shine, dust the nails, and apply primer to all 10 nails. 2. Sculpt all 10 moons with glitter acrylic. 3. Go back to your first nail and apply the form. (Pinch the end of the form into a point in order to achieve the stiletto tip.) 4. Using a pink camouflage powder, extend the nail bed out past the natural free edge. Keep the camouflage pink very thin. 5. After you’ve extended the nail bed, apply the white tip in an extreme stiletto shape. 6. When you’re satisfied with the smile line, apply a transparent pink acrylic over the entire nail bed to add depth to the nail. 7. File the nails to refine the shape and dust them off. 8. Apply a UV gel top coat and cure. Ingredients • nail form • glitter acrylic • pink camouflage powder • white acrylic • UV gel top coat Created by Spa Newberry, Boston 1. Prep nails. 2. Place hands in Bodipure Green Tea Soak. Pat dry with a towel. 3. Apply Universal Companies’ Clair Topper Cuticle Remover to nails, making small pearls with each drop. Push back cuticles with sterilized tools. 4. Apply Universal Companies’ Cuticle Oil to nails, then buff. 5. Exfoliate with Pevonia Botanica EXFO-ZYM Caviar Hand & Foot Peel. Rinse. 6. Apply Pevonia Botanica Youth-Renew Caviar Hand & Foot Mask. Let sit for a few minutes. 7. Don’t remove the mask. Apply Pevonia Botanica Youth-Renew Hand & Foot Cream and massage both the cream and the mask into the client’s hands. 8. Use polish remover to clean fingernails before applying polish. Apply base coat, two coats of polish, and top coat. Let dry for a few minutes. 9. Apply a drop of OPI Drip Dry to each nail, then spray with Onyx Professional Mink Oil. bb08_cookBook.indd 84 Caviar Spa Manicure Ingredients • Universal Companies’ Cuticle Oil and Clair Topper Cuticle Remover • Bodipure Green Tea Soak • Pevonia Botanica EXFO-ZYM Caviar Hand & Foot Peel • Youth-Renew Caviar Hand & Foot Mask, and Cream • OPI Drip Dry • Onyx Professional Mink Oil Spray • base coat, top coat, polish 4/8/09 1:27:48 PM BB08_ChinaGlaze.indd manicures Warm Milk & Wildcrafted Lavender Manicure Ingredients • milk • rose petals • French lavender • SpaRitual Infinitely Wise Fragrance Mist, Close Your Eyes Salts/Open Your Eyes Salts/Look Inside Salts, Visionary Cleanser, Cuti Quench, Harmonizing Soak Tonic, Cuti Clean, Cuti Cocktail, Infinitely Loving Oil, Affirming Scrub Masque, Eloquent Toner, Instinctual Moisturizing Lotion • base coat, strengthener, polish, top coat 1. Prepare soaking bowl with warm milk, rose petals and French lavender. Mist environment with SpaRitual Infinitely Wise Fragrance Mist. 2. Perform consultation with client and let her choose appropriate bath salt (SpaRitual Close Your Eyes Salts, Open Your Eyes Salts, or Look Inside Salts.) 3. Wash and dry hands. Sanitize hands with SpaRitual Visionary Cleanser. Prep nails. 4. Apply a generous amount of SpaRitual Cuti Quench to cuticles. Massage and soak. 5. Soak hands in SpaRitual Harmonizing Soak Tonic and one scoop of chosen salts. Pat hands dry. 6. Apply SpaRitual Cuti Clean to nails. Remove stains with cotton pad. Push back cuticles. Brush nails clean. Dry. Nip dead tissue. 7. Apply a drop of SpaRitual Cuti Cocktail to cuticles and massage. 8. Apply a warm layer of SpaRitual Infinitely Loving Oil and a generous amount of SpaRitual Affirming Scrub Masque over the oil. Gently scrub in a circular motion for three minutes. 9. Wrap hands in plastic and cover with a warm towel for five minutes. Rinse hands to remove the masque and clean beneath the free edge. Pat dry. 10. Spray SpaRitual Eloquent Toner on hands and arms. 11. Apply SpaRitual Instinctual Moisturizing Lotion to hands and arms. 12. Remove residue with Visionary Cleanser and wipe nail. 13. Apply base coat, strengthener, two coats of polish, and top coat. Created by Gil Ferrer, New York City 1. Examine the client’s hands and determine her skin care needs. 2. Dice up your selected fruits (like strawberries, papaya, kiwi fruit, and avocado). 3. Place the fruit in a blender and add a large dollop of King Research’s Love & Kisses cream. Blend until the mixture has a “smoothie” consistency. 4. Pour the mixture into a large bowl and allow the client to soak her hands for 10 minutes. 5. Using a warm, wet towel remove fruit residue from the hands. 6. Perform a 40-minute reflexology massage using Love & Kisses lotion. bb08_cookBook.indd 86 Created by Spa Radiance’s PURE, San Francisco The Hand Shake Ingredients • fresh fruit (avocado, strawberries, kiwi fruit, papaya) • King Research Love & Kisses Protective Cream for Hands & Skin 4/8/09 1:27:50 PM BB08_StarCuccio.indd 1 manicures Colorful (Acrylic) French Mani Ingredients • carbide bit • nail form • tip cutter • 3:1 mix ratio of colored powder to glitter • UV gel top coat Created by Christie’s Nails, Ocean View, Hawaii 1. Remove the old product with tip cutters or by filing it down. 2. Cut away any lifting and prep the nail before filling the cuticle area. 3. Grasp the finger securely using an over-hand grip. This gives you more control when you are filing. Pull the finger away from the nail so you can file deeper into the corners without touching the skin with the file bit. Use a carbide bit to carve the smile line. Set your electric file to a very slow speed. Brace your right hand against your client’s finger with your pinky. You must always brace your right hand to have control. Run the edge of the carbide bit along the nail starting up in the corner and continuing down into the smile. 4. When you have gone a little more than halfway across the nail you may want to adjust where you are bracing your pinky so you can carve up into the other corner of the nail. 5. Make sure you remove nearly all of the old colored acrylic. 6. Apply a nail form. 7. Place one acrylic bead at the end of the nail on the nail form. Press the product up into one corner of the smile, then up into the other corner. At this point it is not necessary to keep the smile line clean. You can overlap the tip color onto the smile line — just make sure you have the product tucked all the way up into the corners. 8. With a carbide bit, refine the smile line, removing excess product. When the excess acrylic has been removed you will be left with a crisp smile line. File and shape the nail. 9. (Optional) Apply a UV gel top coat as the last step. Created by The Nail Lounge, Naples, Fla. 1. Light a lemon-scented candle next to the client to begin the experience. 2. Shape nails. 3. Dip a lemon half into grapeseed oil, then organic sugar. Use this to exfoliate the client’s hands. 4. Apply softener to cuticles, then place in mitts. 5. Have the client wash her hands. 6. Apply Qtica Mandarin Honey Moisture Mask. 7. Perform cuticle maintenance. 8. Remove the mask with a hot wet towel. 9. Massage the client’s arms and hands with Qtica Mandarin Honey Lotion. 10. Prep and polish. Garnish with lemon slice nail art if desired. bb08_cookBook.indd 88 The Citrus Sensation Mani Ingredients • fresh lemon • organic sugar • grapeseed oil • cuticle softener • Qtica Mandarin Honey Moisture Mask and Mandarin Honey Lotion • base coat, top coat, polish • Ergo Soy Candle (in lemon verbena) 4/8/09 1:27:52 PM BB08_RudolphAcrylic.ind manicures Rosetini Manicure Ingredients • Epicuren After Bath Rose Petal Moisturizer • Aromatherapy Freshening Mist in White Rose Petal and Massage Rose Oil • Serendipitea’s Shanghai Rose Rose Petal & White Tea • paraffin Created by Mimosa, Hermosa Beach, Calif. 1. Place Epicuren After Bath Rose Petal Moisturizer, Serendiptea’s Shanghai Rose Petal and White Tea loose tea, and cuticle remover in small bowls. 2. File and shape the nails. 3. Add Aromatherapy Massage Rose Oil and water to the loose tea. Have the client soak her hands for a few minutes. 4. Apply cuticle remover and perform cuticle work as needed. 5. Lightly spray the hands and arms with Aromatherapy Freshening Mist in White Rose Petal. 6. Massage hands and arms with massage oil. 7. Place hands in paraffin dip. Wrap the hands in plastic and towels for a few minutes. Remove oil and paraffin using towels. 8. Spray rose-scented mist on the hands and arms. 9. Massage moisturizer into hands and arms. 10. Remove excess lotion with a towel. Remove excess lotion from the nails. Apply polish. French Twist Created by Lisa Wong, Vista, Calif. 1. Prep nails. 2. Apply CND Performance Tips in natural. 3. Mix CND Soft White and Silver Shimmer for the tip. To achieve the smile line with a twist, use the tip of a size 10 brush to get the detail of the little twist. Sculpt it high enough so that when you apply the pink over the top, you can file down and it won’t file into the white. 4. Sculpt the lunula (moon) with the same Soft White mixture. 5. Apply the body of the nail with a mixture of CND Neutral Opaque, Perfect Pink, Metro Brown, and a hint of Copper and Silver Shimmer over the twist. Do not bring the pink up over the tip of the nail. 6. File the nails to the desired shape with a Blizzard. Apply CND Solar Oil and buff with a Boomerang padded board to a high shine. 7. (Optional) Apply a small silver bead in the middle of the silver swirl with top coat. bb08_cookBook.indd 90 Ingredients • CND Performance Tips • CND Acrylics: Soft White, Silver Shimmer, Neutral Opaque, Perfect Pink, Metro Brown, and Copper • CND Solar Oil • CND Boomerang 4/8/09 1:27:54 PM BB08_nsi.indd 1 manicures Raspberry & Roses Manicure Ingredients • 2 1/2 oz. raspberry yogurt • 1/2 cup brown sugar • 1 1/2 Tbs. olive oil • 2 roses, remove (and reserve) petals • river rocks • rose water • floral-scented lotion • base coat, top coat, polish Created by Mystic Nails, Puerto Rico 1. To make the scrub, combine the yogurt and olive oil. Tear the rose petals into tiny pieces, then stir them in. Put the mixture in the refrigerator until chilled. Stir in the sugar immediately before use. 2. Soak hands in warm water. Add rose petals and river rocks to the bowl. 3. Exfoliate hands with the homemade raspberry sugar scrub. Do not rinse. 4. Using a spray bottle, spray chilled rose water onto the hands to start removing the scrub. 5. Use towels dipped in chilled rose water to completely remove it. Once the scrub is completely rinsed off, spray hands once more with the rose water. 6. Prep nails. 7. Massage hands and feet with any floral lotion. 8. Polish nails. Created by Salon Third Day, El Paso, Texas 1. Select desired clay cane. Carefully, thinly cut slices of the cane on a cutting board with a razor blade. Put aside all precut slices. 2. Prep nail as usual. Apply desired tip. Cut to desired length, shape, blend, and add bonder. 3. Once you have applied desired glitter or colored acrylic on all 10 fingers, add glue on the desired area where precut clay canes will be placed. 4. With two orangewood sticks, gently hold down the corner of the clay canes until fully secured. Repeat this process on desired nails. 5. Begin applying pink acrylic on entire nail bed, remembering to fully encase clay canes. 6. File sides and cuticle area as usual with either 180-grit file or e-file (medium grit). 7. If using gel top coat, apply gel top coat and cure for three minutes. Otherwise, buff and polish as usual. bb08_cookBook.indd 92 Tooty Fruity Mani Ingredients • fimo clay canes • razor blade • glitter and colored acrylic • two orangewood sticks • pink acrylic • 180-grit file, or e-file with medium-grit sanding band • UV gel top coat (optional) 4/8/09 1:27:56 PM BB08_Mehaz.indd 1 manicures Cosmopolitan Manicure Ingredients • CND Scentsations Wash and Lotion (in cranberry) • lime slices • Qtica Lime Zest Sugar Scrub and Therapy Lotion • red food coloring • Epsom and rock salts • Nail Tek Hydration Therapy base and top coats and polish Created by Lavender Nail and Body Studio, Oakland, Calif. 1. Sanitize your and your client’s hands. 2. Place your client’s hands in a martini glass filled with CND Scentsations Wash (in cranberry), red food coloring, fresh lime slices, and Epsom and rock salts. 3. While wearing terrycloth gloves, exfoliate your client’s hand and lower arm with Qtica Lime Zest Sugar Scrub. 4. Wrap hands in steamed towel for a minute, allowing sugar crystals to dissolve. Slowly pull off the towel to remove the scrub. 5. Prep nails. 6. Perform a “double massage” — first massage CND Scentsations Lotion (in cranberry) onto hands and arms, then massage Qtica Lime Zest Therapy Lotion onto hands and arms. 7. Apply Nail Tek Hydration Therapy base coat, two coats of polish, and top coat. Created by D’Hair to be Different, Las Vegas 1. Lay down pink acrylic and make a smile line. (Reverse application). 2. Put a small drop of clear ice acrylic mix on the tip, right in the center. 3. Place a platinum heart on top of the clear ice mix and push it down. 4. Cover the entire free edge with black acrylic, covering over the platinum heart. 5. Cap the whole black free edge with the clear ice mix and push a glittered circle into it. 6. Cap over the glittered circle with the clear ice mix. 7. File the nail into shape to make a perfect smile line. Apply Young Nails Finish gel and cure. The outer design will show the clear ice mix sparkling on top of the black acrylic. The heart design will be clear on the underside of the nail. bb08_cookBook.indd 94 Hidden Heart Manicure Ingredients • Young Nails French Pink and Frosted Pink Acrylic (equal parts) • Black Acrylic • Clear Acrylic and Ice Glitter (mixed together) • Celebrate Confetti • Finish 4/8/09 1:27:57 PM BB08_Backscratchers.ind manicures Magic Massage Ingredients • manicure towel • Cuccio Naturalé Body Butter Created by Kaya Beauty, Henderson, Nev. 1. Serve the client a cup of hot, freshly brewed African Rooibos Tea. 2. Prep nails. 3. Sprinkle some tea leaves into a bowl of brewed Rooibos Tea. Soak client’s hands. 4. Add some tea leaves to the Body Shop Shea Butter Scrub and exfoliate the client’s arms and hands with this blend. Remove the scrub with hot towels. 5. Massage the client’s arms and hands with the Body Shop Shea Body Butter. 6. Apply base coat, two coats of polish, and top coat. Created by Elaine Watson, Valencia, Calif. 1. Start the massage by giving your client a “relaxer movement.” This will loosen up stiff joints and prep the hands and arms for the massage. Place the client’s elbow on a cushion covered with a towel, and brace the arm with your hand. Then with your other hand hold the client’s wrist and bend it slowly back and forth. Bend it five to 10 times until you feel the client is relaxed. Then glide your hands down to the fingertips. 2. Begin the full massage using a teaspoon size dollop of Cuccio Naturalé Body Butter in a scent she chooses. Slowly bring the client’s arm down and brace it with your left hand. With your right hand, hold the little finger at the base of the nail and gently rotate it to form circles, about three to five times. Work each finger, from the pinky toward the thumb. 3. Next make circular palm movements. Place the client’s elbow on the cushion and, with your thumbs in the client’s palm, make circular movements in opposite directions. 4. Now make circular movements on the wrist. Hold the client’s hand with both of your hands, placing your thumbs on top of the client’s hand and your fingers below the hand. Move your thumbs in a circular movement in opposite directions from the client’s wrist to the knuckle on the back of the hand. Move up and down, three to five times. 5. The last time you rotate up, wring the client’s wrist by bracing your hands around the wrist and gently twisting in opposite directions. Then glide your hands up to the arm and slowly and deeply rub in circular motions back down to the wrist. Do this on both sides of the arm. African Rooibos (Red Tea) Manicure Ingredients • African Rooibos Brewed Tea and Leaves • Body Shop Shea Butter Scrub and Shea Body Butter • base coat, polish, top coat bb08_cookBook.indd 96 4/8/09 1:28:00 PM BB08_Tweezerman.indd pedicures Green Tea Pedicure Ingredients • Yamaguchi Spa Green Tea Contouring Lotion, Firming Spray, and Clay • soy-enzyme milk • distilled water • green tea bags • polish, base coat, top coat Created by Created by Benu Spa & Salon, Dallas 1. Light a green tea-scented candle and serve green tea while the pedicure is being performed. 2. Soak the feet in soy-enzyme milk. 3. Mix Yamaguchi Spa Green Tea Clay and warm distilled water in an Asian mixing bowl using a whisk. This should be done in front of the client. 4. Apply a thin paste to the feet and legs. Wrap the legs in warm towels. 5. While the paste is drying, file and shape the toenails. 6. Brush off the dry clay using a loofah glove or with your hands. 7. Using tea bags soaked in warm water, press the tea bags to the skin to remove any residue. Do not wash as the clay contains many moisturizing benefits. 8. Massage Yamaguchi Spa Green Tea Lotion into the feet and legs. 9. Lightly spray legs and feet with Yamaguchi Spa Green Tea Firming Spray and gently pat into the skin. The spray is a light oil that seals in moisture. 10. Use a foot file as needed on the heels. 11. Apply polish or buff the nails. Soothe Your Senses, Chicago 1. Soak feet in a warm bath infused with organic dried mint and Soothe Your Senses Refresh Foot Bathe, a blend of sea salts and dried chamomile. 2. Cleanse and exfoliate feet with Soothe Your Senses Renew Foot Scrub, a mix of cane sugar, sage, and tea tree oil. 3. Apply Soothe Your Senses Revive Foot Creme, a deep moisturizing mask. 4. Cocoon feet within a fresh, cooling peppermint leaf wrap, then warm feet with hot towels. 5. Massage legs and feet with Soothe Your Senses Replenish Leg & Foot Moisturizer. 6. Trim, file, and polish nails. bb08_cookBook.indd 98 Mint Julep Pedicure Ingredients • Soothe Your Senses Refresh Foot Bathe, Renew Foot Scrub, Revive Foot Creme, and Replenish Leg & Foot Moisturizer • organic dried mint • peppermint mint wrap • polish • base coat • top coat 4/8/09 1:28:03 PM BB08_Jessica.indd 1 pedicures Peppermint Spa Pedicure Ingredients • Traditional Medicinals Organic Peppermint Tea Bags • organic mint leaves • The Body Shop Peppermint Mineral Crystal Soak, Peppermint Refreshing Foot Spray, Cooling Peppermint Foot Mask, Cooling Peppermint Foot and Leg Gel , Pumice Foot Scrub, Peppermint Foot Lotion or Cooling Intensive Foot Rescue • peppermint essential oil • unscented paraffin wax • Harvest Lights All Natural Soy Peppermint Twist Candle • base coat, top coat, polish Created by Pamper Me Please Travel Spa, Washington, D.C. 1. Light a Harvest Lights All Natural Soy Peppermint Twist Candle to set the mood and serve the client peppermint tea. 2. Mix water with a few drops of Peppermint Essential Oil and shake up the mixture. Spray the mist on a warm eye cloth and place over the client’s eyes. 3. Add fresh organic mint leaves, Peppermint Mineral Crystal Soak, and a Traditional Medicinals Organic Peppermint tea bag to the foot bath. Soak the client’s feet. 4. Spray Peppermint Refreshing Foot Spray on the feet. 5. Prep nails. 6. Apply Cooling Peppermint Foot Mask to feet. 7. Apply Cooling Peppermint Foot and Leg Gel to feet. 8. Exfoliate feet with Peppermint Pumice Foot Scrub. 9. Spray hot towels with the Peppermint Essential Oil mist, wrap them around the client’s feet, then remove. 10. Apply Peppermint Foot Lotion or Peppermint Cooling Intensive Foot Rescue (for feet in need of extra moisture). 11. Add Peppermint Essential Oil to unscented paraffin, then dip client’s feet in wax, and remove. 12. Polish toenails, and send the client home with a bag of mints. Created by Green Bliss Eco Spa, Los Angeles 1. Soak the client’s feet in warm water and Buddha Nose Detox Bath Salts (or any Dead Sea salt soak with male-friendly essential oil scents). 2. Prep nails. 3. (By request) Wax off hair on the client’s toes. 4. Exfoliate the client’s feet with Naturopathica Citrus Salt Scrub. 5. Use Cuccio Naturalé Earth Stone Lava Pumice to lessen calluses on heels and the mounds of the big toes. Rinse off scrub. 6. Using Buddha Nose Bodhi Balm, perform a foot reflexology massage. 7. Apply Priti matte base coat to nails. (Optional, apply a requested polish color, like black or dark green, to nails.) bb08_cookBook.indd 100 Gentlemen’s Rock Pedicure Ingredients • Buddha Nose Detox Bath Salts and Bodhi Balm • Naturopathica Citrus Salt Scrub • Cuccio Naturalé Earth Stone Lava Pumice • Priti matte base coat 4/8/09 1:28:08 PM BB08_Akzentz.indd 1 pedicures Beach Feet Pedicure Ingredients • Callo Peel • Jessica’s ZenSpa line Blissful Bath, Gentle Cuticle Remover Gel, Purify Enzyme Scrub, Balanced Stimulating Mint Mask, Pampered Silkening Souffle, Refreshed Foot Spray • base coat, polish, top coat Created by Created by Andrew Michaels Spa • Salon, Boston 1. Soak feet in Jessica’s Blissful Bath to sanitize and deodorize feet and soften skin. 2. Clip and shape the nails and apply Jessica Gentle Cuticle Remover Gel. Return feet to soak. 3. One at a time, dry feet and brush with Callo Peel. Wrap both feet in plastic and allow to sit for at least 10 minutes. 4. Push back cuticles, clean nails, and remove excess dead skin around the nails. 5. Rinse feet lightly. Apply Jessica’s Purify Enzyme Scrub to both feet and legs, massaging each foot and calf. 6. Rinse feet and buff with a foot paddle. 7. Brush Jessica’s Balanced Stimulating Mint Mask onto feet and legs. Rinse off after five minutes. 8. Apply Jessica’s Pampered Silkening Souffle and perform a thorough massage on legs and feet. 9. Mist feet with Jessica’s Refreshed Foot Spray. 10. Remove excess lotion from the nail bed and apply base coat, polish, and top coat. Polished Nail Studio, Chicago 1. Add a few scoops of One Minute Manicure Oxygen Pops to the pedicure water. Drop in a few slices of fresh lemon. Allow feet to soak. 2. Perform the basic pedicure steps. Clip and shape the nails, reduce the cuticles and callus, and push back the cuticles. 3. Mix one scoop of Oxygen Pops with a dollop of Head to Toe Total Body Sugar Buff. Massage mixture into the foot and calf. Repeat on other leg. 4. Rinse scrub off, using lemon slices to help. 5. Massage legs and feet with Essie Smoothie Lotion in Lemon & Guava. 6. Wrap both feet in a hot towel scented with Estelina’s Oil Therapy in Lemon Spice. 7. Finish with another light massage using Estelina’s Oil. bb08_cookBook.indd 102 The Lemon Drop Pedicure Ingredients • One Minute Manicure Oxygen Pops • Essie Smoothie Lotion in Lemon & Guava • Estelina’s Essential Oil Therapy in Lemon Spice • Head to Toe Total Body Sugar Buff • fresh lemon slices 4/8/09 1:28:10 PM BB08_Belava.indd 1 pedicures Champagne Pedicure Created by A Perfect Pair Nail Salon & Spa, Dunedin, Fla. Ingredients • Keyano Aromatic Champagne Fizz Ball, Champagne Oil, Champagne & Rose Butter Cream • champagne • Epsom salt • crushed and pureed fresh grapes • OPI polish: Birthday Babe and Happy Anniversary • base coat • top coat Created by The Nail Loft, Austell, Ga. 1. Bathe feet in a basin of flowers containing passion fruit and aloe vera extracts and a calming foot soak that includes anti-bacterial tea tree oil. 2. Shape toenails, tidy up cuticles, smooth feet and heels with a foot file. 3. Mix a sea salt scrub with a jasmine essential oil and massage into feet and legs to moisturize skin. 4. Rinse off the product and apply a peppermint mask. Wrap feet and legs for five minutes and remove the product with hot towels. 5. Offer a paraffin dip. 6. Massage feet and legs with lemongrassbased essential body oil. 7. Apply base coat, two coats of polish, and a top coat. bb08_cookBook.indd 104 1. Prepare a soak made with Keyano Aromatics Champagne Fizz Ball and a splash of champagne. 2. Soak the client’s feet for 15 minutes. Serve chilled champagne, freshly dipped chocolate-covered strawberries, and red grapes. 3. Manicure toenails. 4. Exfoliate feet with a freshly made champagne and grape salt scrub that consists of Epsom salt, crushed green grapes, and a splash of Keyano’s Champagne Oil. 5. Apply Keyano’s Champagne & Rose Butter Cream to warm feet to moisturize and soften. Let penetrate for 10 minutes. 6. Rinse feet. Massage Keyano Champagne Oil into the feet and legs. 7. Cleanse and polish toenails. 8. Apply nail art (optional). Flowers in Bloom Pedicure Ingredients • fresh flowers • foot soak with tea tree oil • sea salt scrub • jasmine essential oil • peppermint mask • lemongrass oil • unscented massage and body oil • paraffin • passion fruit and aloe vera extracts • polish, base coat, top coat 4/8/09 1:28:11 PM BB08_Farouk.indd 1 pedicures Pick-Me-Up Pedicure Created by Samone Spa Bar, Chicago 1. Fill the pedicure basin with CND SpaPedicure Foaming Sea Soak. 2. Trim and file nails to desired length. 3. Protect hands with gloves, then apply Be Natural Callus Eliminator to dry areas on soles of feet. Be careful not to allow it to come in contact with broken skin. Wrap feet with paraffin protectors. 4. Remove protectors after five minutes. Rinse thoroughly. 5. Use a foot file to gently remove dry skin. 6. Exfoliate with CND’s Sea Salt Glow or a.h.a. Sea Scrub. 7. Massage a small amount of Warm Spirit Special Attention Cream or CND Cucumber Heel Therapy on feet for three to five minutes. 8. Wrap feet in hot towels to produce a calming effect. 9. Polish toenails. Ingredients • CND SpaPedicure Foaming Sea Soak, Sea Salt Glow or a.h.a. Sea Scrub • Be Natural Callus Eliminator • Warm Spirit Special Attention Cream or CND Cucumber Heel Therapy • polish, base coat, top coat Created by Element Day Spa, Los Angeles Grandma’s Milk and Honey Cookies Pedicure 1. Add a Cuccio Milk & Honey Fizz Ball and AquaLeaves to the pedicure tub. Soak the client’s feet in the milk and honey bath for five minutes. 2. Prep nails. 3. Exfoliate client’s legs and feet with Cuccio Milk & Honey Sea Salts. Rinse with warm water and pat dry using a hot towel. 4. Using the provided application brush, apply a generous amount of Cuccio Deep Dermal Transforming Wrap onto the client’s legs and feet. Cover the areas with clear plastic wrap, then cover with warm towels for 10 minutes. Wipe off the mask with the towels and pat dry. 5. Massage the Cuccio Milk & Honey Body Butter Blend into the client’s legs and feet. 6. Clean the nail bed with sanitizing spray, then complete the pedicure with polish application. bb08_cookBook.indd 106 Ingredients • Cuccio Naturalé Scentual Spa Signature Service Enhancement Kit (Milk & Honey): AquaLeaves, Pedicure Fizz Balls, Exfoliating Sea Salts, Body Butter Blend, and Deep Dermal Transforming Wrap • sanitizing spray • base coat • polish • top coat 4/8/09 1:28:13 PM BB08_Beech.indd 1 pedicures Fruit Smoothie Pedicure Ingredients • 1/4 cup vanilla yogurt • 1/4 cup of fruit (include a variety of pineapple, apple, orange, and banana) or canned fruit cocktail • OPI AvoJuice Silk Body Wash and Skin Quenchers Juicie (in Cran & Berry) • sugar or a fruity sugar scrub • polish, base coat, top coat Created by Artistic Trends Salon, Sellersville, Pa. 1. Combine fruit in a blender. Add yogurt and heat through in a crock pot. In a pinch, you can substitute canned fruit cocktail for the fresh fruits. Serve a fruit smoothie (made of the same fresh fruits and yogurt, add either seltzer or peach schnapps to thin it out) to your client when using this mask. 2. Soak feet in warm water. Add OPI AvoJuice Silk Body Wash (in Cran & Berry) to the soak. 3. Exfoliate with any fruity sugar scrub. To make your own, make the same crushed fruit salad in the blender, then mix it with 1/2 cup of sugar. Heat through with some water in a crock pot. Scrub client’s feet and legs in a circular motion, then rinse off. 4. Prep nails. 5. Using a fan brush, smooth on the homemade fruit smoothie mask. Wrap feet in towels for five minutes. Rinse. 6. Massage feet and legs with OPI Avoplex Skin Quenchers Juicie (in Cran & Berry). 7. Polish nails. Cranberry Pedicure Created by The Nail Station, Huntington, Ind. 1. Fill the pedicure basin with warm water. Add 2 Tbs. Haken Mineral Spa Crystals (in Cranberry) and two drops of Source Vitál Bio Essential Anti-fungal Oil. Soak the client’s feet. 2. Prep nails. 3. Spritz the client’s foot with Source Vitál Aromatic Algae. Exfoliate with a foot paddle and rinse in the basin. Dry foot. 4. Apply Haken Spa Yogurt Mask (in Cranberry). 5. Dip Spa Essential Paraffin Strips in warm Pinnacle by FPO Nurture Infused Therapeutic Paraffin (in Kicked Up Cranberry). Apply four strips to each foot. 6. Wrap feet in plastic bags, then slip them into foot booties. Let the client relax for five minutes, then remove the booties, bags, mask, and paraffin. 7. Massage feet for two minutes. Apply Source Vitál Cool Mask to feet. Wrap feet in towels and let sit for two minutes. 8. Massage feet with Source Vitál Nourishing Body Cream for two minutes. 9. Apply Haken Whipped Body Butter (in Cranberry) to legs and massage for two minutes. Follow with warm towels. 10. Cleanse nails, then polish or buff to a shine. bb08_cookBook.indd 108 Ingredients • Haken Mineral Spa Crystals, Spa Yogurt Mask, and Whipped Body Butter (in Cranberry) • Source Vitál Bio Essential Anti-fungal Oil, Aromatic Algae, Cool Mask, and Nourishing Body Cream • Spa Essential paraffin strips • Pinnacle by FPO Nurture Infused Therapeutic Paraffin (in Kicked Up Cranberry) • base coat, top coat, polish 4/8/09 1:28:16 PM BB08_LE.indd 1 pedicures Pumpkin Fritter Mani/Pedi Ingredients • Trillium Organics Clementine Clove Wash and Oil • boiled or canned pumpkin • sugar in the raw • pure vanilla extract • Alaffia Handcrafted Shea Butter • Organics Pumpkin Hand Repair Cream • base coat • top coat • polish Created by 1. Soak hands and feet in Trillium Organics Clementine Clove Wash for 20 minutes. 2. Mix together 3 Tbs. freshly boiled pumpkin (canned pumpkin may be substituted), 2 Tbs. sugar in the raw, and 2 drops of pure vanilla extract to create your pumpkin fritter antioxidant mask. Add 1 tsp. Trillium Organics Clementine Clove Oil immediately before using on client. 3. Saturate your client’s legs, feet, arms, and hands generously with the mask. 4. Wrap the client’s feet and hands with hot towels (or electric booties) for 15 minutes. 5. Clean the mask off and prep nails. 6. Massage feet for 10 minutes with Alaffia Handcrafted Shea Butter. Massage hands with Organics Pumpkin Hand Repair Cream. 7. Apply base coat, two coats of polish, and top coat. Green Tea Gel Toes Mujeres Salon, Eugene, Ore. 1. Prepare the toenails for the pedicure by pushing back the cuticles, remove the shine, and clean with Light Elegance Cleanser. 2. Apply LE Bonder to the toenails and cure. 3. Apply LE Gel Polish (try “Friday at 4”) and sprinkle a light coat of “Pink Glitter” over the gel polish and cure, then dust off the excess glitter. 4. Apply LE Super Shiny and cure. 5. Cleanse the toenails. 6. Get a warm bowl of water and put green tea leaves into the water for 30-60 seconds (if you are using tea bags, then remove the tea bags after the 30-60 seconds and place some bay leaves in the water). 7. Place 12 drops of LE Cuticle Oil into the water. 8. Soak your client’s feet in the water for a few minutes. 9. Exfoliate your client’s feet with the salt scrub. 10. Wrap your client’s feet with towels that have been soaked in warm water. 11. Remove each foot (one at a time) and massage with the invigorating cream containing mint. 8/24/08 bb08_cookBook.indd 110 Created by Mint Julip, Philadelphia Ingredients 4:14:19 PM • Light Elegance Gel Polish, Cleanser, Bonder, Super Shiny, Glitter, and Cuticle Oil • green tea leaves (or 3 green tea bags and bay leaves) • salt scrub • foot cream containing mint 4/8/09 1:28:18 PM BB08_KingResearch.indd pedicures Margarita Pedicure Created by Radiance Salon and Day Spa, Carson City, Nev. 1.Fill pedicure basin with water. 2.Add a shot of tequila to detoxify feet. 3.Rub lime slices on skin and nails to whiten. 4.Exfoliate feet and legs with a blend of sea salts and organic essence of lime oil to slough away dead skin cells. 5.Trim, file, and buff toenails. 6.Massage Coconut Body Butter onto legs and feet. 7.Drizzle warm organic coconut oil, infused with lime and ginger, over the client’s legs and feet. 8.Place feet in heated booties for five minutes. 9.Polish toenails. Ingredients • tequila • ground ginger • polish • lime slices • The Body Shop • base coat • sea salt Coconut Body Butter • top coat • lime oil • organic coconut oil Mojito Pedicure Created by Havana Nights Nails & Spa, Chicago 1. Fill pedicure basin with cool water. 2. Add a shot of Bacardi rum and lime juice to detoxify and cleanse feet. 3. Exfoliate feet and legs with a homemade mix of sugar and lime juice to buff away dry, lifeless skin. 4. Push back cuticles, clean nails, and remove excess dead skin around the nails. 5. Rub lime wedges on the skin and toenails for a lightening effect. 6. Apply a mint mask — using CND’s Marine Masque as a base, add your own fresh crushed mint leaves. 7. Massage legs and feet with a blend of Neaclear Unscented Foot Lotion and lime peel essential oil. 8. Trim, buff, and polish nails • Bacardi rum • mint sprigs • Neaclear unscented foot lotion Ingredients • refined sugar • lime • club soda Hot Buttered Rum Pedicure • polish • CND Marine Masque • lime peel • base coat, top coat essential oil Created by Jill Wright Spa for Nails, Bowling Green, Ky. 1. Soak the feet in warm water infused with Bacardi white rum and essential oil of cinnamon or clove. 2. Prep nails. Use a callus eliminator and wrap feet in plastic wrap to let it work. Remove. 3. In the palm of your hand, blend hot buttered rum mix (homemade or store-bought) with a teaspoon of rum. Exfoliate feet and legs with the scrub. Use a foot file on heels, then rinse. 4. Pat the area dry and do cuticle work as necessary. 5. Massage legs and feet with a teaspoon of cocoa butter. 6. Place cinnamon sticks between the toes as separators, then polish as usual. Ingredients bb08_cookBook.indd 112 • Bacardi rum (airplane-size bottle) • store-bought hot buttered rum mix • cinnamon sticks • cocoa butter • cinnamon or clove essential oil • callus eliminator • polish, base coat, top coat 4/8/09 1:28:24 PM BB08_YoungNailsLomas pedicures Cinnamon Bun Pedicure Created by Nail Taxi (a mobile boutique), Atlanta/Chicago/Washington D.C./Richmond, Va. 1. Soak the client’s feet for 10 minutes in Maxim Pedi Redi Foot Soak (in Pink Grapefruit). 2. Prep nails. Use a foot file on calluses. 3. Groom cuticles with CND Solar Oil. 4. Exfoliate client’s legs and feet with Nail Taxi Cinnamon Bun Scrub for two minutes. Rinse. 5. Warm through SpaRitual Moisturizing Lotion, then massage into client’s legs and feet. 6. Apply polish or buff to a shine with the OPI Brilliance Buffer Block. Ingredients • Maxim Pedi Redi Foot Soak (in Pink Grapefruit) • CND Solar Oil and Solar Speed Spray • Nail Taxi Cinnamon Bun Scrub Created by The Beauty Lounge Inc., Chicago 1. Combine the oatmeal with the honey. Add a few drops of warm water and mix lightly. (Oatmeal is great for dry, itchy skin.) 2. Soak feet in warm water. Add a half cup of dry organic milk powder to the soak and run the pedispa’s jets for a short time to get a nice foam. (The foam is the “latté” part — just make sure you don’t foam over the top!) 3. Prep nails. 4. Exfoliate feet with the homemade honey oatmeal scrub. Leave on for two minutes. Rinse. 5. Massage legs and feet with Cuccio Naturalé’s Body Butter (in Milk & Honey). Wrap feet in warm towels. 6. Polish. • SpaRitual Moisturizing Lotion • base coat • top coat • polish or OPI Brilliance Buffer Block Latté Pedicure Ingredients • 1/2 scoop of dry organic oatmeal • 1/4 tsp. honey • dry organic milk powder • Cuccio Naturalé Body Butter (in Milk & Honey) Chocolate Pedicure Ingredients • chocolate scrub or • cocoa powder brown sugar and • heavy cream • oatmeal powder almond oil • shea butter • honey • chocolate extract • chocolate massage oil bb08_cookBook.indd 114 Created by A Perfect Pair Nail Salon & Spa, Dunedin, Fla. 1. Combine 1/3 cup cocoa, 3 Tbs. heavy cream, 3 tsp. oatmeal powder, and 3 tsp. honey to make a chocolate mask. Serve champagne, freshly dipped chocolate strawberries, and a selection of chocolate candy to your client. 2. Soak feet in warm water. Add cocoa powder and chocolate extract to the soak. 3. Prep nails. 4. Exfoliate with any chocolate sugar or salt scrub. To make your own, combine 3 Tbs. brown sugar, 1 tsp. almond oil, 1 tsp. honey, and 1/4 tsp. cocoa butter. After scrubbing, rinse. 5. Apply the homemade whipped chocolate soufflé mask. After 10 minutes, rinse. 6. Massage feet and legs with chocolate shea butter and a warm chocolate oil drizzle. 4/8/09 1:28:28 PM BB08_Mastex.indd 1 pedicures Apothecary Spa Ritual Pedicure Ingredients • ground herbs (peppermint leaves, ginger roots, lavender, rose petals, green tea leaves, lemongrass) • salts (Himalayan and Dead Sea salts) • organic sugar • aromatherapy/essential oils (spearmint, lemongrass, rose, lavender, peppermint, ginger, lemon, and other preblended oils) • Amber Products Unscented Massage Cream • pure shea butter • base coat, polish, top coat Created by 1. Guide the client through the process of selecting the perfect blend of ingredients — herbs, salts, and essential oils — from the “apothecary bar” based on the type of treatment she’s looking for (i.e. relaxing, energizing, detoxifying, or recharging). 2. Add a few drops of the chosen essential oil to warm water to create an aromatic foot soak. Soak client’s feet. 3. Place a warm neck wrap on the client for total relaxation. 4. Exfoliate feet and legs with the customized salt (Himalayan or Dead Sea salts) or organic sugar scrub. 5. Prep nails. 6. Moisturize the calves and feet with a masque made of pure shea butter, water, ground herbs and essential oils. Wrap warm towels around calves and feet. 7. Massage calves and feet with Amber Products Unscented Massage Cream blended with chosen essential oils. 8. Apply base coat, two coats of polish, and top coat. Havana Nights & Spa, Chicago 1. To create the Cinnamon 2-in-1 Scrub and Mask, combine the ground cinnamon and honey. (As long as you use equal parts of each, the recipe works.) The cinnamon grains are great for exfoliating, and the honey is a great moisturizer, which means you don’t have to use a separate mask. (It also makes a great retail product.) 2. Soak feet in warm water. Add wash (in Cinnamon Bun Heaven) to the soak. 3. Exfoliate feet with the homemade cinnamon scrub. Leave on for 10 minutes to let the honey do its work as a mask. Rinse. 4. Prep nails. 5. Massage feet and legs with lotion (in Cinnamon Bun Heaven). 6. Polish nails. bb08_cookBook.indd 116 Created by Blu Water Day Spa, Kensington, Md. Cinnamon Holiday Pedicure Ingredients • 3 Tbs. ground cinnamon • 3 Tbs. honey • Bath & Body Works Temptations Wash and Lotion (in Cinnamon Bun Heaven) • polish • base coat • top coat 4/8/09 1:28:31 PM BB08_RudolphNatural.ind pedicures French Gel Toes Created by Polished.ca, Mississauga, Ontario, Canada Ingredients • soak-off solution • cuticle pusher • 180-240 grit buffing block • cuticle softener • Akzentz Options Base ‘N Gloss, Options Brite White • cleanser Created by HIVE Salon + Spa, Los Cabos, Mexico 1. Soak feet in a blend of Dead Sea salts, four essential oils (tangerine, grapefruit, lime, and sweet orange), and passion fruit extract. 2. Push back cuticles, cut and file nails, and buff heels and feet. 3. Scrub feet with a scrub that consists of virgin coconut oil, almond oil, essential oils, organic sugarcane, freshly pressed passion fruit extract, and freshly grated coconut. 4. Massage legs and feet with a balm that consists of wild honey, virgin coconut oil, and shea butter. 5. Polish nails. 1. Remove the shine from the old gel. 2. Soak cotton with acetone and apply onto the nail and wrap with aluminum foil. Leave it on for 10 minutes. 3. Scrape the peeling gel off with a cuticle pusher. 4. Apply cuticle softener and push back the cuticles. 5. Buff the nails with 180- to 240-grit block. 6. Shorten the free edge, but leave the nail a little longer. 7. Using a medium sanding band, remove the excess hard skin around the nails. Dust the nails and wipe well with prep. 8. Apply a gel bonder and let it dry to chalky white. 9. Apply a thin layer of base coat and cure for two minutes. 10. Using a square brush, apply white gel to the free edge. Use gentle vertical strokes and cover the free edge from side to side. 11. Perfect the smile line from the middle to the right and the middle to the left. Flash cure for three seconds. Repeat on all five toenails and then cure for two minutes. 12. Apply a second layer of base coat using light floating strokes. Turn the nail to each side to make sure the surface is even, and then flash cure for two seconds. Repeat on all five nails and then cure for two minutes. 13. Wipe the dispersion layer with a cleanser. Shape the free edge and shorten it a little. Apply lotion and cuticle oil. Grated Coconut & Passion Fruit Pedicure Ingredients • Signature Soak Blend: Dead Sea salts, essential oils (tangerine, grapefruit, lime, sweet orange), passion fruit extracts, antibacterial agents • Signature Fresh Coconut, Passion Fruit & Organic Sugarcane Scrub: virgin coconut oil, almond oil, essential oils (tangerine, grapefruit, lime, sweet orange), organic sugarcane, passion fruit extract, grated coconut • Signature Balm: wild honey, virgin coconut oil, shea butter • base coat, top coat, polish bb08_cookBook.indd 118 4/8/09 1:28:35 PM BB08_T4.indd 1 pedicures Polka Pedi Created by Risé Carter, West Conshohocken, Pa. Ingredients • NSI Balance One-Step Clear Gel, Balance Color Gel (custom blend green and hot pink), Cleanse, Builder Clear Gel, and Glaze ‘N Go Top Coat • small, tapered brush for polka dots Created by 1. Perform a pedicure as you normally would. 2. Prep the toenails on one foot. 3. Apply a thin coat of NSI Balance One-Step Clear as a base coat. (You do this so the pigment of the colored gels doesn’t penetrate and stain the natural nails. It also helps the gel come off more easily when it comes time to remove them.) 4. Cure for 90 seconds in the UV lamp. Wipe tacky layer off lightly saturated with NSI Cleanse. 5. Apply one coat of NSI Balance Color Gel. (Customblended green for the big toes and Hot Pink on the rest of the toes is shown.) Cure for two minutes. Leave the tacky layer. 6. Apply a second coat and cure for two more minutes. Remove tacky layer with Cleanse. 7. Use a small tapered brush to apply polka-dots to the big toe and freeze the dots for 10 seconds. 8. Apply dots to smaller toes two at a time and lock for 10 seconds at a time. 9. Apply a thin coat of NSI Builder Clear Gel. Cure for 90 seconds. Buff it lightly to smooth it out. 10. Remove the dust and apply a layer of NSI Glaze ‘N Go. Cure for 90 seconds. There is no tacky layer to remove. Bellini Pedicure Beauty Bar, Toledo, Ohio 1. Soak the client’s feet in Beauty Bar Bellini Milk Bath (in Peach) for five minutes. 2. Scrub bottoms of feet with a foot file. Prep nails. 3. Exfoliate with Beauty Bar Champagne Scrub. 4. Mix 1 tsp. champagne oil into Beauty Bar Merlot Vinotherapy Mask, then apply to legs and feet. Wrap in warm towels. After 15 minutes, remove the mask with warm towels. 5. Massage Beauty Bar Bellini Body Butter into legs and feet. 6. Apply base coat, two layers of polish, and top coat. Ingredients • Beauty Bar Bellini Milk Bath (in Peach), Champagne Scrub, Merlot Vinotherapy Mask, and Bellini Body Butter • champagne oil • polish • base coat • top coat bb08_cookBook.indd 120 4/8/09 1:28:37 PM BB08_EstelinaBar.indd