West Virginia - ernestartist.org
Transcription
West Virginia - ernestartist.org
1 Road-trip 2015 – Part Six – Start at West Virginia and Virginia: Text and photos © All Rights Reserved by Peter Tanner and Ernestartist July 26, 2015: It is almost light out at 5:45 and the crickets are chirping in harmony and a distance away I can hear one or two birds, but nothing really loud. I can also hear drips of morning dew hitting the tent fly from the trees above, and I feel the need to get up and break camp in awhile because I don’t want to be stumbling around in the semi dark. Later, at 6:45 the sky is still dark, but it is with clouds and I’m hoping not rain for awhile, everything is silent as I walk and ride along Highway 47; this is Sunday so I don’t expect to be too much traffic. I photograph a stone and log upper house, across from the 100F and near an 800 acre Boy Scout Camp. Later, rolling through Freeport unincorporated at 7AM, an engine block mail box and large mud trucks – Entering Ritchie County after five miles of Wirt County, Hughes River runs through the area and there is quite a bit of Civil War history in these parts. 2 Next is Cisco village, photos of a Stage House and 47 Auto Repairs and tire center with some Mac Trucks outside. 3 A small oil rig near Oxbow road, 47/20 near MacFarlane Unincorporated, when I passed into the township it is about 9AM. There are no people out and very little traffic so the road is deathly silent which is nice for a change. I pictured an old church with a new edition added to the side, which is the only church in MacFarlane. An old Ves-So gas station now unused. MacFarlane Community Church. Bridge No 1220 built in 1931 over the North Fork of Hughes River along highway 47. 4 I stopped at a quaint combination store, bait shop and little restaurant so I could get something to drink, eat and fill up my water bottle. I talked with the owner of the establishment, a woman who has owned the place for over 40 years, and a gal about my age who used to work at a wild bar across the street. She jokingly says that she has worked in every place in MacFarlane except the Post office. We talked about the way things are and the way they used to be and the way they should be, the vehicle of the area is a pick up truck with ATVs if you don’t have these things you are out of luck for getting things done or fitting in. The wild bar closed down a few years ago and the town has gotten quieter ever since. A house and shed at the eastern end of MacFarlane, while further east is an Indian posing under a mail box, followed by an oil rig. 5 A footbridge over the Hughes River at the western entrance to Beatrice unincorporated, then photos of Drilling equipment on trucks – there seems to be, or used to be some importance to the drilling industry, for natural gas or for oil, I’m not sure. 6 I’m at Smithville, standing at highway 16 junctions and wondering if I should take Highway 16 to the south like I had planned. It looks like the highway is going into the middle of nowhere, and I’m already in the middle of nowhere. To the north in Harrisville there is a fair playing from July 29 to August 05 but that is way out of my way. I’m headed for Weston which is about 40 miles to the east and then pick up 33, perhaps. An old building falling into disrepair and a vintage gas station marked Thursday, West Virginia and has a bus stop and mail boxes where the gas pumps used to be – I then cruised through Burnt House W. Virginia where I see an interesting photo of cylinder shaped hay bales, then onto Tanner Road where I am headed for Glenville. An old barn with holes in the roof and Ivy on the walls, then pass by a church called Tanner Chapel followed by a Tanner Town which is unincorporated and consists only of a few houses along the road. 7 I got to the highway 5 junction, about fourteen miles from my turn off in Burnt House. Should I go highway 33, or head on over to Glenville and then toward I-79 and highway 19 south to highway 60 and on to Lewisburg where Reithoffers will be playing the state fair. I’m heading into parts unknown, almighty backspaces that I don’t know, chasing a dream of rejoining a show I haven’t been around in forty years and will be weeks too early if I keep going the way that I am. I don’t know, but it sounds to me like a hopeless situation chasing a pipe dream and perhaps I need to re-evaluate things. I think I’ll head toward Lewisburg anyway just to see what’s up then continue aimlessly until some one wants to hire a hapless old man that has too much experience and not enough strength to be of any valuable service. A smokehouse restaurant painted green and yellow inside the town of Glenville at the turn off to highway 5 toward the interstate that I can’t travel on because I don’t have a motor on the bike. I found a MacDonald’s restaurant and stopped for a burger and to work on the web site photos. I finished part five and uploaded it to the website, then provided a link on face book. It is a little bit hot out today, I’ve been sweating cups of water since about 11AM on – I am set up in a vacant lot just outside of Glenville, on 8 my way to Highway 19 and on to Lewisburg. I don’t really like this camping spot because it is semi out in the open and people will notice. I just don’t like the idea of camping in the middle of nowhere in the forest. July 27, 2015: It is almost 5:30 and it is still dark out and cloudy too. Summer seems to be on the way out except for the heat. I liked it better I think when it was light out after 4AM. Because of the clouds, I might just pack the bags in plastic bags just to be safe, but I will see about how bad the clouds are when it gets a little lighter. It seems a little strange that by this time I am usually on the road pedaling, and it’s a bit frustrating because I can hear the traffic getting heavier on highway 5 and I still can’t get up and hit the road to struggle with it. I got on the road as soon as I could, found a photo op with Duck Run Cable Suspension Bridge used from 1922 to 1992 and am listed as one of the heritage places in West Virginia. It spans over 550 feet and over 11 feet wide, spanning the Little Kanawha River. 9 As seen from both sides of the river. Next is Tomlin Service Station and old building in Sand Fork West Virginia. A footbridge and two barns further down the road near Curry’s Convenience Store and Pawn at the western edge of Burnsville. I’ve reached Burnsville and headed over to the Exxon Station that has a little grocery store inside, one of those multi purpose truck stop things. Now I have to backtrack slightly to get back onto highway 5 to Sutton. 10 Two Red Barns on the eastern side of Burnsville, Then an old building that looks like it is a school house, but when I spoke to a local he told me that it was an old Railroad station boarding house that was built in the late 1800s. Another bit of history just falling to bits on Cogar Drive. Cogar Drive Building: Peeking inside through the broken windows at the vintage garbage. 11 A footbridge about half a mile east of the Cogar Drive Building. I made it to the fork in the road where highway 5 ends and made photos of old buildings foot bridges and butterflies in between – all seems to be well, although I must admit that even though there are signs that say share the road, people aren’t as understanding as other places and I’ve gotten horn blowing and fist shaking quite a bit. Outside Burns Township, but still in the district along Gem Road which is also named, highway 5, the name of the game here is raising horses: 12 More of Gem Road with old farms and strange decorations beside the road. Below are two butterflies; A Great Spangled, Fritillary Butterfly (Speyeria Cybele- Orange with black Markings) and a female Black Swallowtail butterfly doing a little dance to share the nectar from Dipsacus Sylvestris (Teasel). 13 At the junction of highway 4 and 19 south there is the township of Heaters. I made it to Sutton later and found a McDonalds along the highway to stop into and do some photos and recharge batteries. The internet 14 explorer was acting up so I rebooted and that seemed to take care of the lack of scrolling problem. Everything worked okay after I rebooted, I worked until about 2PM and headed south along highway 4 which is the old highway 19, or the old turn pike road as it is sometimes called. Next stop is Sutton, standing at the old turnpike road to head south down 19 at 2:35PM. I had a hell of a time pushing up that first long hill, a rural route Post woman stopped and asked me if I’d like a cold drink and handed me cold water and Iced tea… thanks to the US Postal and kindness of delivery women everywhere. When I reached the top of the hill there was a fellow working on his truck, he saw me and invited me over for a cold beer. We stat for awhile and talked about the road ahead so I know what to expect, I told him tales of my adventures on this trip. Next thing is a photo moment at the top, looking to the south at the valley and a farm, with a little section of Interstate 79 in one corner. Then as I go along the mountain crest, I start to notice a graveyard of old machinery and trucks – I photographed some of it, but the main part of the graveyard was somewhat further east, behind a fence and a whole lot of trees. I left that one, although I can still picture the trucks sitting there and rusting away. 15 I eventually got to a junction at the top where the road branches off to some lake and recreational areas and a camp ground that is closed. It also has the distinction of being exactly in the geographic center of West Virginia, especially back in the 1800s when it was also the population center as well – there is a little historical sign there that I pictured just for good luck. Then started down the dips and long hill to Tesla and Little Birch where I am running into problems contemplating the forested area and bear 16 country. The fellow I sat and talked with told me about the bears going through garbage but not to worry about them as they are fearful of people and don’t bother campers. That’s comforting, I think. I’m camping a little early today because of the uphill pushing I’ve been doing – I’m camped in a vacant lot with a collapsed house in a village called Little Birch unincorporated. There was a guy with his wife calling out for “Ankle Biter” which could mean me or it could mean a dog. I assumed he meant a dog and not me, so I just kept quiet. Perhaps it is a bad idea about camping inside a township; perhaps I’ve pushed my boundaries too far this time. It is only 5:30 right now, so I have lots of time to get acclimatized, hopefully the fellow that was calling out for an ankle biter didn’t mean me, although I can’t see how he missed the tent, even though it was off the road and behind shrub and weeds. It is just past 7PM and I have relocated up the hill some two miles or so away. That idiot in Little Birch unnerved me to say the least. I didn’t want to wake up in the middle of the night having to move by shotgun. So I have a nice little campsite beside the road in a flat spot, it has a back yard with a huge rocky cliff, but not to close to get damage by falling rocks. I’m happier and feel more like it is my camp now, rather than sneaking around where I’m not wanted. I only do that when I have to, in an emergency. There is a house about 50 yards or so up the road, I heard the people just come home, so if there is a problem, there is someone close by. July 28, 2015: It’s almost 6AM and still dark out, I’m quiet, relaxed and have enjoyed a very comfortable night beside the road. There was some one early in the evening who stopped to give me the look over, someone in a red car, but who cares, I’m in nowhere and no one can say diddly. Now what I need is a way to enjoy two weeks before Reithoffers gets to the State fair. Perhaps slow down my route a little, enjoy the things that are along the road between here and there? I could do some exploring along highway 60? All those years I hitch hiked through Interstates and wondered, what was going on along the back roads? What are the people like and what am I missing? I almost feel silly that I’ve waited for so long to find out. It only rained a short while last night, the raindrops that did fall on the tent have long since dried out, and there is only the condensation on the inside of the tent fly from the morning dew. I continued up the long damn hill this morning, pushing the bike, it looks cloudy to the east as I get away from so much tree cover, clear sky to the south. I don’t know what that means except that it might be hot and there shouldn’t be any rain. Now I’ve got a long down hill to look forward to. 17 At the bottom of the hill there in an unincorporated village called Bays and it looks as if it rained heavily here because the road is soaked and everything in the forest on both sides is very wet. Another two miles and I’m at the New Highway 19, four lane highway junction, Summersville and points south are beyond. The road is new; there is smooth highway, plenty of shoulder and interstate-like grades of hills. I feel so silly when I start wishful thinking. I was in Birch River at a Go Mart gas station where I was having a cold soda on ice, when I read a Carnival Fair time poster for a place called Gassaway, West Virginia – that’s only about 20 miles back the way I came. It has a carnival called Gambil Amusements and is a fall bash. I take Highway 19 north about 9 miles to Herold Road which is right at a turn off before the I-79 connection. From there I take Herold Road past the Seniors Center near Sutton to highway 4 west turn off on the other side of a river bridge then left along highway 4 to Gassaway. Along the way I made only a few photos, a back country road church and the I-79 underpass along Herold Road. When I got to the Highway 4 junction I stopped at another Go Mart gas station for another cold soda because its getting hot out and I need to keep fluids into me. While I was there, I re-read the same poster as I read in Birch River… my heart skipped a beat or two when I realized, I see I’ve made a mistake, the fall bash is for the end of August. How could I mess that up? How could I not read that it was August and not July? So, back out to the road, onto highway 4 and onto I-79/19 to sprint (starting at mile 69) for four miles until highway 19 splits away from I79. I’m not supposed to be on the interstate and I could be ticketed and fined if I’m caught, but I am not taking any more damn back roads to avoid this. The whole day of photos is a bust, traveling back and forth along the same bit of ground three times just made me un-creative. 18 So I give it my best shot, riding as fast as I could, and of course, it’s four miles up hill. I made it and made it back down to the Highway 82 turn off (with the gas station I originally stopped at) when I started my diversion and passed it along the dips and hills till I reached the 9 mile hill through the pass over Powell Mountain over 2,417 feet. I got about three miles up the hill, perhaps a bit more and was starting to feel the 90 some degrees of humid heat, when Regina in a silver pick up truck stopped and asked me if I wanted a ride to Summersville. Of course I said yes and loaded the bike into the pickup and off we went. I’m at a McDonalds Restaurant now where they charge you .75 cents for a cup of water. I’d complain but I’m going to take full advantage of the water with both of my bottles almost dry. I left McDonalds at about 4:30PM and headed south as quick as I could in the hot sun and searing humidity, there are plenty of clouds out and I’m hoping that it will be just for shade from the hot sun and not from the blasting of rain drops. I found a nice camping spot outside Summersville at the eastern side, behind some trees, next to a fence that has fallen down. Problem is, there is also a deer trail that goes through the site. I imagine I’ll have lots of snorting going on tonight. It isn’t even 6PM yet but I’m bagged from pushing up all of those damn hills in the heat, and going all that extra distance – the little ride I had from Regina really did wonders to help make up for the extra crap I did today. I must have done way over 50 miles and suffered extremely for it. July 29, 2015: What to do today? I mean, besides the obvious, Ride, find food and liquids, photos, write and enjoy the time I have on this earth. I thank the powers that be for allowing me this time, and for my youth (looking back over the years I didn’t think that I would make it this far, I thought my destiny was to live fast, love hard and die young). I feel so alone this morning, and that’s okay to feel alone because I realize it is my lot in life, but I miss certain people’s company, family and friends at various times of need, I’m starting to miss my little piss ant existence with all of it’s pit falls and hang outs like Starbucks and my Romano’s Pizza in downtown Vancouver. I miss the safeness I feel, dry place to hang my hat and the sameness of the days, knowing what each day will probably hold – what a scary thought. I would still like to hitch hike across the Southern states, doing photos along the way – it seems that in my past I’ve tried to do that but failed 19 because of one reason or another. I don’t like the idea of giving up my freedom or the respect I get when I travel by bike, granted these past days in West Virginia I haven’t gotten the same amount of respect that I’m used to, but I’m sure it will get better. Perhaps it is the depressed way of the state? Or as the locals say, this is a coal state and the coal situation has gone to hell in a hand cart, what do you expect? Ten PM last night I did a little contemplating, all is well I think – except the traffic noise and the fact the air is starting to cool and feel like it might be comfortable. I still haven’t felt the need to cover up yet, I’ve been lying on the sleeping bags sweating. It’s almost 5:45AM, and it is still dark out, but the creatures in the forest behind me haven’t started to wake and stir yet – the crickets and frogs have stopped and the traffic is at its noisy minimum. Later, after breaking camp and heading out onto the road, dawn’s early light is trying to peek over the mountains and the clouds above are colored with reds and gold’s. As I head south along highway 19 the fog is trying to rise from the ground and cling to the trees at tree-top level. I’m starting at the 42 mile mark along the highway of four wide lanes and plenty of shoulder to ride on. Photos of Summersville Lake from the highway at about 7:15AM, I think that the lake is man-made because I see signs ahead for a tourist destination point of Summersville Dam. There is a Historic sign at the roadside telling of the Hawks Nest Tunnel disaster which happened in the early 1930s, where hundreds of mostly black Americans died from an Acute Silicosis epidemic that arose from some nasty dust they inhaled during a tunnel digging operation. The powers that be at the time tried to keep it secret and buried the folks in unmarked graves, but now there is a graveyard devoted to them. I didn’t bother going down into the gulley to see it, I have enough graveyard photos at the moment. 20 Half way up another long and not-so steep hill I stopped to pull out my bags to air and dry them out, it is almost 8AM and getting intensely hot. I’m at the Highway 60 cross roads at this moment, with more contemplating. I’m at my wits end trying to figure out which way to go: North, South, East, or West, or go back home. That thought has been crossing my mind a lot lately, but I don’t want to go back with my tail tucked between my legs like I’ve failed. That’s not what it’s all about; it’s about finding me and a new beginning. So, I started to go east along highway 60, but I ended up about half a mile past the junction and the shoulder on the road ran out. Okay, that’s a message that I received loud and clear! I turned around and went back to the highway 60/19 junction and grabbed the highway 19 south highway toward Tennessee. At least here there is plenty of shoulder to ride on, albeit noisy and confusing, and a little drab and boring, but it is a hell of a lot safer than a busy highway with no shoulder. Almost 2PM and it is pouring rain, and when I mean pouring, I mean heavy pelting kind of rain that makes everything wet even by association. I went to The New River Gorge National River visitor’s center for an overlook at the Western hemisphere’s longest single arch bridge, along 21 with being North America’s second tallest bridge. And the gorge below. I also pictured the little Fayetteville Station Bridge which looks like a Tonka toy down in the gorge below. Top of the bridge from the Highway, heading into a thunderstorm. 22 Quite the scene in the hot sun, but after that I headed down the road – that is after a good clean up in the bathrooms at the visitor while I was in the bathroom I had a conversation about riding and where I was headed and so on, and the fellow there made a donation of a few dollars, enough for a coffee or something, then a little while later I was trying to get my bearings as far as where I am and where I’m going and another fellow, named Russell stopped to give me a 20 dollar bill. Now that’s what I’m talking about! Both of those gentlemen have their hearts in the right place; they didn’t know how close I was to being broke and how good that donation made me feel. I feel that I’m out of the dumps now and can carry on south and see what’s there. Back down the road I go, but before I left the Gas Station, Misty Fish at Subway in Fayetteville just brought me two lovely slices of Pepperoni Pizza from Godfathers pizza shop nearby. I stopped into the gas station in Fayetteville to relax and grab a soda, and then watched the sky open up and rain come cascading down in a summer afternoon shower that made me glad I had a spot under an overhang in the gas station. I stayed long enough to recharge the computer and Ipod, and do some notes before I hit the road. I’m feeling a little bit more with-it right now because of all the people suddenly giving me some attention. I left Fayetteville with my heart singing and hope in the air. Photos of orange wildflowers along highway 19 in Fayetteville, I think I will stay on highway 19 for awhile because it goes into Tennessee which is cool as far as I’m concerned, perhaps my luck will change and I’ll find work there or in North Carolina. It is 4:15 and getting late, time start looking out for a campsite, but not too late to be taking just anything. 23 A bumble Bee hanging in there. Butterfly at roadside sucking up nectar from one of the roadside weeds about four miles north of Good Hope West Virginia. It is 6:30PM now and I’m done setting up for the evening’s camp site. It is a little gully that has a bed of woodchips, like they cut down a bunch of trees and used the chipper to blow into this gully to help fill it. With a few adjustments I made a level surface for the tent to go on, behind some bushes so it can’t be seen from the road. It’s hot and I’m sweating buckets right at the moment, the tent is still in the sun but within a few minutes the sun should be behind the mountain. There are sand flies and mosquitoes here, the sand flies really hurt when they bit, the little buggers like to go for the soft areas like behind the knees and around the ankles, they will disappear when you go to swat, then return to the same spot to finish the job when the coast is clear. July 30, 2015: I’m sitting in McDonald’s Restaurant in Beckley, West Virginia, all little out of sorts because it’s been raining all morning, by all morning, I mean starting at 4:45 when the light rain turned heavy rain by 5AM. It’s been a hell of a morning so far and I’ve maybe gone a few miles at most, I’ve been stopping onto gas stations along highway 19 to keep out of the worst of the rainfall, but I still have a really wet tent. The nice job I did yesterday evening to make the ground level by digging out the side of the bank caused the water to pool under the tent so I had 24 a shallow swimming pool by 6AM. That’s when the rain let up for a little bit and I poked my head out and decided it was time to suffer the loss and break camp and hit the road over to the Go Mart – I set up under a huge advertisement sign that towers above me in this little grotto of a gully, the sign is right next to the Go Mart exit, at Maple Fork Road, one short exit away from Bradley which is about 4 miles north of Berkley. When I arrived at the Go Mart, it was still dark out, a young fellow by the name of Logan told me to grab a couple sandwiches and what ever else I wanted to eat, and rung it up on his own credit card. Thanks for the donation Logan, kindness is so hard to come by these days, one needs to say the words to celebrate it. I’ve taken the highway 16/19 turn off at mile marker 2, where I can continue along highway 19 south – the four lane highway I was on, turns 25 into Interstate and Toll highway which I’m not allowed to go on with my bike, not that I would want to anyways. It’s only 7:35 and already it has started to rain again, at least the wetness subsided for awhile so I could wring out the water from the tent and pack the bike up to move on down the road – Fortunately there is a Sheetz gas station convenience store where I could duck into and wait out the rain a couple hours – I’m hoping that it will stop soon so I can brave the elements and get on down the road. The rain keeps on falling in nasty waves, teasing at one moment by dribbling, then when you are least expecting it, ravishing the air with sheets of downpour. I’m inside the Sheetz station, sitting comfortably and dry while the bike is outside under an overhang, safe from too much rainfall. I’ve been using my Ipod to check out carnivals in Tennessee and North Carolina and it seems that there are no close shows that will be playing anytime soon. There seems to be a lot going on in Memphis and Knoxville area, but that isn’t till the end of August. The branch in highway 19 to 19E toward North Carolina is appealing for travel sake; I’d like to see the Carolinas again just because I haven’t been for 30 years or more, but the idea of seeing the Tennessee people again is most appealing. At least I will have a day or three to decide before the fork in the road. Berkley Township, I stopped along the way to photograph some old buildings and signs, including an honest to goodness, still working, Drive in with vintage neon sign 26 - and then found Pinecrest Sanitarium made of bricks that was established in 1927 to provide facilities for Tuberculosis sufferers then was opened to the public as a hospital in 1930, which was expanded in 1938 because of the TB epidemic. Now is Jackie Whithrow, long term care Hospital. 27 Yesterday’s Country Bar and Interstate Bridge towering above, in Beaver, unincorporated, plus some other interesting photos up to L&C Auto photo by 1:15PM followed by Daniels unincorporated which are back to back villages. I should be careful how I say villages, because Beaver has a bunch of heavy duty stores and restaurants like McDonalds and Walmart. 28 Interesting signs in Beaver, West Virginia. I stopped into a Dollar General at Daniels unincorporated, bought a dollar drink and sat outside the store contemplating, sitting quietly looking at my map. An older fellow and his wife drove up, beeped at me and handed me 2$ and said, “Bless You,” and drove away with a smile, because every bit helps. Then I’m sitting there, looking at my map and this young fellow comes up and looks at the bike and looks at me, smiles and says, “Are you on a road trip?” and we got into a pleasant conversation about the road, carnivals and Reithoffer show and how far away it is and how much time I have to get there, and the general state of the world. The young guy doesn’t know what he wants to do with his life yet. I told his to think about his wildest dream, and then make it happen. I bared my soul to a 23 year old fellow that came to the doctor’s office beside the Dollar General to get diagnosed, after he has been complaining of a huge lump in his throat that just seems to be growing. 29 Everyone thinks it is probably throat cancer, but I told him I have a friend that went through the same thing, get it taken care of early and you won’t have to worry about it. Then I told him about how I started with the carnival business with Reithoffer’s back in 1975 and how I got distracted, side tracked with other lives to live and how much I tried to get back to the Reithoffer’s but wasn’t able. That this may be the last time in my life that I’ll have the chance to make it back and see what is there. I was in tears when I realized that I was planning on just passing it off as a pipe dream and that I wasn’t even going to try. I have to try, even if it means slowing down my trek to a walk. So, after I finished my drink and after the young fellow bared his soul to me about his lack of direction in life, we parted, me on the bike, he was waiting for relatives to pick him up and take him home after his doctor’s appointment. So, I’m going as slow as I can, walking up all hills, enjoying the scenery, and minding my own business, when along comes a guy driving an ATV unit, pulls up and hands be a bag of bread and donuts and stuff. What in heaven’s name am I going to do with all of that? It weighs about 5 pounds and is food that will attract bears. I thanked him and blessed him, people around here seem to like that expression, and went along my merry little way. Shady Spring unincorporated next by about 3:15 PM, followed by Cool Ridge unincorporated by 4PM. I stopped into a little out of the way grocery store and bought a soda and dropped off the bag of bagels, and bread to the lady at the store. She seemed to like it and I can’t use so much stuff. I kept a couple things that I could quickly eat before night fall, and left knowing that I have passed along the donation. Fordson Tractor 30 Shady Spring – Steam Tractor It is just past 6PM, I have my tent set up in a nice, dry, safe place, with a bit of a roof over it and a smashingly good wooden platform under my buns – I started to walk through a place called Ghent unincorporated a little after 5PM, and got an idea into my head as I was passing the Ghent Volunteer Fire Department building at the southern edge of the village – Why not stop in and ask if there was anyplace they thought that might be good to pitch a tent where I would be out of the way, safe and not bothering anyone. The told me that they have a huge field to the side of the firehouse that belongs the fire department and I’m welcome to pitch a tent anywhere. So I did, there is a band stand come picnic area that has a roof over it, open on all sides with a wooden platform, and I asked if it was okay, the dispatch said yes and that she would let everyone else know that they have a guest in the outback. July 31, 2015: This past night is the most comfortable night I’ve had in awhile; except for the hardwood floor I have a dry tent that doesn’t seem to smell the Mississippi River Swamp any more. I have dry bags, a quiet area, feel safe, a pond nearby that has frogs and swimming, dabbling ducks and 31 the night turned brisk which helped in the sleep department – the flood lights from the fire hall didn’t bother me at all. Up by 6AM, broke down camp and packed everything on the bike, got ride of my garbage of the wasted bag of eaten donuts in the fire hall trash, wished there were someone to thank for the spent night, but headed south. The traffic is already heavy so I have to be careful, but I’m spending the day as slowly as I can and will be walking most of the way. By 6:30 I was quietly thanking Ghent Volunteer Fire department for the use of their band stand, out into the bright sunshine of the morning determined to enjoy the day to the best of my efforts. I can see the West Virginia Turnpike from where I am sitting on the chair outside the little grocery store between Ghent and Flat Top. A fellow named Sam stopped to talk for awhile about traveling and being a rich contractor as he used to be, falling from grace and now is a poor contractor with too many years under his belt and not enough fun in life I think. He stopped and reached into his pocket and shared what little he had left after gas and the grocery store coffee, then continued along his way. Every little bit helps. I tried to recall traveling up and down Interstate 77 which is the West Virginia Turn Pike, but I think it is a relatively new highway, that’s why they have a toll on the beast, to help pay for the building and upkeep. I can remember so many Interstate highways hitch hiking up and down them over the years, recalling that it was the fastest way to get anywhere in USA, even faster than Greyhound sometimes. I have to figure how to slow this adventure right down to a bare minimum so I get there but get there in a week or so instead of a day or two. I’m not that far away really, if I wanted to, I could arrive there within two days. Walking is the only answer. I found an interesting, Salvador Dali kind of yard marked as “Funtastical Houses” at 3711 highway 19 in south Ghent. 32 Pushing into Flat Top at 8:15AM, a photo of the brick building that the post office here is in, kind of a marker for other stuff. There are apple trees beside the road so I ate probably more than I should have – photos up the view of the Turnpike, plus some photos of butterflies on Milkweed before and after the turnpike, is all Flat Top village district. The aroma from the Milkweed beside the road is sweet and lovely, overpowering to the members of the insect world I’m sure. 33 The Black butterfly above is possibly a Black Spicebush Swallowtail, most common in the southeastern USA. Pushing into Camp Creek unincorporated by 10:30AM, even walking I’m going too fast it seems. I’ve covered more to this point today than I did for the whole day yesterday, which is amazing because I’ve slowed to a snail crawl and am taking breaks all the time, relaxing in the shade beside the road. An overwhelming supply of Tiger Swallowtails on this Milkweed – Camp Creek. Its just past noon and I’m stalled in a wide, shady turn out on a long hill I’ve been pushing up – when the few cars that are traveling this moment disappear, the road will be silent but for the crickets and birds chirping. 34 An old barn at Maynard Road turn off, then old house and buildings north of Spanishburg unincorporated. Bluestone River and reflections, followed by an old church that has been ransacked and ravaged is beside the road, has been abandoned and is growing over in parts with ivy. Near this site on May 1, 1862, the battle of the Henry Clark House occurred, Lt Col Rutherford B Hayes 23rd Vol. Inf. engaged Confederates under Col. Walter Jenifer. Captain Richard B. Foley, commander of the Flat Top Copperheads, “The Eyes and Ears” of area Confederate forces, was severely wounded in action. Forced to retreat, the Confederates Burned Princeton. A whole lot of flags at 20329 Beckley Road (Highway19). 35 These Lonicera Spp, commonly known as Honeysuckle shrubs are everywhere at roadside bursting with red berries that human and animal leave strictly alone. Buildings in Spanishburg and the Bluestone River with reflections. 36 I stopped into a little grocery store across from Spanishburg School and discovered when I walked into the store that most of the stock is gone, empty and falling apart shelves, and a hell of a mess. The woman proprietor and her daughter I’m guessing were sitting watching soap operas on an old CRT Television. There wasn’t much for sale, only coke and sprite in the cooler and a few chocolate bars and chewing gum. I’m thinking that this place has fallen on hard times, and I thought I had it bad. I’m just passing the southern outskirts of the spread out and business limited village of Spanishburg and there is a spur road that heads over to I-77 so now I can place myself on the map: Because there is no such town as Spanishburg on the map. Thankfully the day is over with as far as I’m concerned; I walked from Ghent to the south side of Spanishburg without riding any more than I had to, only down those long steep hills where riding was easier than walking. I found a nice, shady spot to pitch a tent right beside the road, next to a huge, moss covered boulder with a flat top and flat edge where I leaned my bike against, so it is lodged between the tent and the rock. It is only a little past 4:30PM, still lots of time left in the day to get some miles in, but that’s not the point for the next few days, the point is to log a few miles each day as I can, take it easy with hopes of rounding off those days in the first two weeks of August so I can meet with the folks on the show. I don’t know what to expect when I get there, but I’ll give it my best shot and see what happens. Now it is almost 5:30 PM and I’ve caught up with my notes and can safely relax and perhaps sleep a little of the afternoon away, resting for tomorrow’s walk. I really need another pair of shoes – those damn cheep things I bought at Walmart in Indiana are wearing through on the bottoms. 37 August 01, 2015: Another peaceful night so far, although it is only the wee hours of the morning as I start writing notes. I find that I’m getting plenty of rest and sleep as I have slowed my forward momentum, and I have time to really look at things, watch birds and their habits as they carry out through the day. I don’t have to constantly keep a watch for potholes, cracks, and roadside crap that will ruin a tire as I move forward, so this walking, once I’ve resigned myself to it, and is very good for my spirit. I can hear dripping on the roof of the tent, but when I went out to check it isn’t raining and the road is dry. My guess is that the fog has left condensation in the trees which are shedding moisture and dripping down on the tent. It’s still dark out at 5:30, the nights are remarkably longer than when I started out on the road in May, or seem like it at least. We are getting ready for the big wobble toward fall equinox, then to winter time solstice which I’m not looking forward to at all and in fact seems rather scary. I’m on the road by 6:40AM in semi gloom of fog and daylight; I’m cursed with liking fog so I looked for fog pictures as interesting as they are, where ever I find them. I made fog pictures of farm buildings, hay bales and looking into the sun with trees in fog, all up to the Highway 10 junction. I also found a nice stand of Impatiens Noli-tangere (Jewell Weed, Common Touch-me-not) 38 I pushed through the Highway 10 junction around 7:40 this morning, I say pushed because I’m taking my time and walking. Besides many fog and farm photos I made, I also stumbled upon a weird and eerie sight, an old Chair-O-Plane and Eli Ferris Wheel rusting in a field at Shawnee Lake, a children’s resort-like place that was started in June of 1926 by a fellow named, Conley Snidow. According to a local who chose to comment on the lake, the Rides stopped working about 30 years ago, but the lake still gets used for Mud Cat fishing derbies. In the same field as these rides, back in 1783, two children of Mitchell Clay were killed by Shawnee Indians – Clay was the first settler in the Mercer County area. 39 There is an old Chair-O-Plane there as well, but it doesn’t translate as well to photos as the wheel does. I did do a chancy thing by hopping over the fence and going into the field to get closer to the rides, there may be no trespassing signs up, but this is one of those times where the chance was worth it. It’s about 11:15 AM right now, I’ve just sat down in McDonalds Restaurant in Princeton, West Virginia – a little while ago I was scouring the streets for yard sales and thrift stores so I could replace my worn out Walmart sneakers (this is shoe pair number 5 now) and found a pair for $5 at a flea market along highway 20 in the old downtown core. There is a Mercer County Fair going on until the end of today, Wade’s Amusements, but the timing is wrong – I just went through the area and didn’t see any adds. It isn’t meant to be I guess, and I shouldn’t be going on some back road back tracking. A tank and white building along highway 19 South in Princeton: The M41, Walker Bulldog is a light tank, (Named for Gen. Walton Walker who died in a jeep accident in Korea in 1950 – introduced in 1951 to operate with a crew of 4 including a commander, driver, gunner and loader, having a 76mm main gun and 50 Cal & 7.62 mm machine guns) is next to the War Museum 40 Mercer County Courthouse 41 Almost 1PM now, I’ve killed quite a bit of time at the McDonalds restaurant and am starting to get antsy for the road again. I’ll do a little more cleaning up then be gone. I’ll do a little more cleaning up then be gone. I sent along a happy birthday wish to John, also sent him a photo of the Ferris wheel which caught on instantly, everyone likes it. It’s only 5:30 now, but I haven’t made much forward progress, perhaps another couple miles – I stopped into Walmart and bought a Cesar salad in a bag, one of those salad kits, I open the bag up, dump all of the goody contents, then mix it up with a fork – instant bowl and instant salad meal. I’m stopped at a place in a gulley about 2 miles from Walmart, which is at the I-77 north and south junction outside Princeton, or part of Princeton, another strip mall around an interstate junction. The tent seems to be okay dry for the time being, although there are plenty of clouds above and I’m a little worried about rain. August 02, 2015: Finally, at 5:30 those dame insects have stopped chirping and the forest is quiet. The insects are crickets and the insect called Cicadas which are related to aphids and leafhoppers, and they do get noisy. Even the constant traffic on highway 460 has abated to a one car every fifteen minutes. Of course, the lumpy ground didn’t help sleeping matters either. I’m not looking forward to the trek down the boring old four-lane highway today, but I’m trying to be optimistic about the photo situation and to try keeping positive about finding something interesting to shoot, such as, the painted morning sky at 6:30 sunrise over the mountains – how quickly the light changes and the moment is gone. Sunrise 42 Highway 460 with pockets of fog. It’s so nice along the highway today, peaceful, and quiet for a Sunday morning, reminding me of days long ago where I ended up in the middle of nowhere after a hitch hiking ride that departed along another route leaving me stranded. Even though I didn’t know where I was, I was comforted by the fact that I was seeing new things, and enjoyed the sounds and sights of nature around me, feeling the magic of the day at hand. At the Esso Station in Virginia at the state line (Glen Lyn – Giles County) along 460, having a pair of Benkin Gas Pumps (Visi Bowl, made in Dayton Ohio) on hand at the entrance to the grocery store part of the service station. The pumps with glass filling containers at the top are made by Hyde Park Laboratories so the stamp on the pump face reads. 43 I should only be in Virginia a few hours until I connect with highway 219 and head North toward Lewisburg. I remember my first time in Virginia; I was Hitch Hiking north along I-95 out of Florida when a middle aged fellow in an Olds 88 car stopped and offered me a ride after sunset. He told me about the Reithoffer’s show in Petersburg Virginia, and to call on a fellow named Al Wicker to get a job in the popcorn wagon Wicker owned. I recall not really being impressed with Virginia at first, and I think that was because I was trying to get from point to point and Virginia state, or at least part of it, was in the way. I also remember falling in love with the state later as I played Petersburg and met some of the people and loved one of the women. This is where all of this carnival envy and travel lust originated from, and I wonder, if I could turn back the clock that day, and instead of going to the fair grounds in Petersburg, if I had chosen to go north instead? Where and what would I be doing? I certainly wouldn’t have the same kind of Carnival envy that I’ve struggled with for so long. Or was that whole thing part of the plan for me? Photographs of the Appallatian Power, Glen Lyn Plant and river after 1AM. 44 Pushing into Rich Creek, Virginia at 11AM, this is where Highway 219 splits off of 460 – I went to Dollar General for a little while, got some lunch and continued on my way. While I was there the strangest thing happened. I was relaxed and having a little bit to eat when a Silverspotted Skipper (Epargyreus Clarus) landed on my read saddle bag and commenced to lay eggs on it. I let it go for awhile, but then I thought, “This is no good, this winged creature is wasting its eggs,” So I helped it decide to go someplace else to do that. Mutt’s Primitive’s sign with white rooster at Rich Creek northern outskirts, along highway 219. 45 I was just speaking to an elderly fellow about the state of the economy as it is right now and how close the similarities with stock market drops as there was back in the days of the big Depression. I think we are in for hell on a hand cart if you ask me. Almost 1PM now and I’m on the final leg of my journey towards Lewisburg along highway 219. It’s been a painful morning, although the heat wasn’t bad as the cloud cover has been off and on all morning. I’m in a little town called Narrow, Virginia which is the next little town north of Rich Creek. I’m sitting very uncomfortably outside a Family Dollar Store that has plug ins outside which I’m not sure about whether it is a kosher thing to do, but I’m plugged in anyways because I need the juice for my electronics and there isn’t much between here and Lewisburg which is only 45 miles from here. Just keep in mind that I’m taking my time and attempting to spread out my trek over the next 5 or so days, which are going to be a good trick. Into West Virginia again; Appalachian Christian center with a huge cross on the hill with a statue of Jesus at the head, then an old house near Woods Fort area at the extreme northern edge of Peterstown, plus red barns falling down sort of between Peterstown and Lindside a little after 5PM. Woods Fort defense was erected in 1773, by Captain Michael Woods, was of importance during Lord Dunmore’s War. Troops from here were engaged in the Battle of Point Pleasant next year and later were with George Rogers Clark. Peterstown and re-entry into West Virginia. 46 Old house near the Woods’ Fort area Dead Tree near Lindside. Stop Spitting Tobacco on Barn, Lindside 47 Lindside, The IOOF Lodge No 362, established in 1899. Gawd, it’s almost 7PM now, I finally found a camping spot beside the road under some trees. It isn’t the best, and isn’t that well hidden, if you look closely as you go by on highway 219, you can see a bit of blue as you go by. It’s in the shade under some trees, beside a little trickle of water just in case I need to clean something, a little to the north of Lindside, Unincorporated. It’s a beautiful area, lots of trees, farms, people, falling down barns, and pretty scenery, but the fences are all the way close to the road, there is one farm after another, too many houses, I had two dogs chase me along the road, trying to bit my leg – I had to stop as one Boxer got too close and I had to go for the pocket knife I wear on my belt. There was no where to camp after Peterstown – it was all fence and no trespassing all the way until I found this place – at least there is no houses within a hundred yards, although that can be a problem with wildlife – at least no one saw me go in and pitch my tent, and I hope that I don’t get bothered in the night by any wildlife, four leg or two leg variety. As I said, there weren’t any camping spots since Peterstown; I had to get on my bike a ride because I would have been walking all night to find 48 this place – so tomorrow I have to be extra slow, perhaps sleep in a little or something. I must have ridden almost ten miles so that really tears up my travel time to the destination. I am probably going to do some round about adventure along Highway 60 or something just to help a couple more days pass before going into the State Fairgrounds, although I think I will check the fairgrounds out anyways, because they will be finished in Clearfield County, Pennsylvania on the 8th of August and this fair doesn’t start till the 14th, so there is a bit of a lay over. The trucks will probably start coming into the lot on the 9th and tenth, with stragglers on the 11th and 12th. That’s 7 to 10 days from now, a long time when you don’t have anywhere to go. August 03, 2015: Almost 6AM and the sky is only now starting to change from star spangled black to a light blue, the insects have stopped making their infernal racket, but a dog from somewhere close and will not shut up. It has cooled off somewhat and I’ve had to roll under another sleeping bag, but it’s a comfortable cool, a refreshing cool and I like it. I went back to sleep for awhile, but soon, by 6:30, the sounds of the traffic zooming by close to the tent is starting to get on my nerves and call me into action to break down the tent. The first photos of the day are of a sunlit tree and a steel corrugated roofed barn at 7:20 AM, about 1 mile south of Pete Amos Road, 219/14, plus an old cabin which are both on the southern edge of Rock Camp unincorporated, about mile 14 from the entry point of West Virginia – plus an old barn having Elmer Galford Sheriff painted on a sign, nailed to the barn front. 49 Vintage house falling down in Rock Camp. Riffe’s Country Store at Rock Camp – sign and store front, along with a green moth on the wall, which I tickled to get it to spread its wings out so I could get a look at the shape of front and back pairs. Next is an old farm building with corrugated steel roof and round hay bales – about two miles north of Rock Camp, and near Indian Creek. 50 I crossed paths with a 33 year old man sporting a scruffy looking beard, clothes and a small Knapp sack, who had been walking from Vermont since sometime in July – he’s finding the area to be totally depressing and everything in stores over priced. I explained about the depression and closing of the coal mines in the area and he seemed to understand why the bad prices and unconcerned vibes. I shared with him a few of my Little Debbie bars and some stories and talk about the road then we parted ways, him going south, and me going north. 51 There are many farms along the Seneca Trail (Sometimes known by the Iroqouis as the Warrior Path, known now as Highway 219) and some of them have been neglected to the point of falling down, others have been replaced by newer buildings. I found a nice shady spot along Indian Creek to strip down and wash out my riding clothes and have a bath in the fresh water. It feels good, the water isn’t too cold and the shade keeps the flies and sun off my bare skin, I got all of the road dirt off and then some. Later, around 11:30, after quenching my poor old body in the stream, I came across Indian Creek Covered Bridge No 4364, built in 1898, and restored in 2000. So now I have my important photos of the day, I can relax and enjoy being a traveler. 52 Pushing into Salt Sulphur Springs unincorporated at mile 21, almost noon, photographing the stone buildings and church, which all look like they are close to being the original structures built here in the 1800s – Opened as a resort in 1820, the main building was finished about 1836, Martin Van Buren, Clay and Calhoun amongst prominent guests, General Jenkins and other Confederate leaders used the place as a headquarters during some of their campaigns. 53 Greenbrier Limestone which outcrops between Union and Renick, is the Big Lime of the Driller, Fish-egg like oolotic zones in the Big Lime yield oil and other natural gas in West Virginia. The time is a little after 2 in the afternoon, I’m sitting at the side of the local IGA in Union, West Virginia where I have spent a few dollars on salad and fixins which will have to pack on the bike somewhere and take with me toward Lewisburg some 20 miles north of here. I feel great because I had a bath earlier in Indian Creek around mile 19 along highway 219. I shed all of my clothes except for the underwear and washed everything in the clear water stream – I don’t know if it is polluted or not, but it seems to smell okay and that is a good indicator, 54 besides, I had little minnow coming up to my legs and nibbling at my goose bumps, so if a stream supports life, it isn’t too bad off. The Confederate Soldier Memorial in Union, West Virginia is a tall, white stone Statue of a Confederate soldier standing, holding a musket on a small hill top with a white fence leading up to it, from the hill top you can see a graveyard with hundreds of stone monuments and think that there is possibly some of the civil war veterans from this area buried there. “In August 0f 1901 this 20 foot monument with 6 foot statue depicting typical Confederate soldier was dedicated to the Munroe County men who served the lost cause. The dedication crowd numbered 10,000 to hear a speech of Gen. John Echols.” Of course, before I got to the memorial, I stopped into the town of Union to a local IGA store and bought some food and drink, then sat for awhile outside between the ice machine and coke machines, that way I could plug in and charge up all that I could before moving on. Problem is, when I left the IGA, I took everything with me except the Nikon camera battery I had plugged in to a socket above one of the coke machines. So when I went to the Confederate Soldier Monument at the northern edge of Union town, and put my camera back, I realized that the camera battery and charger was missing. I raced back to the IGA Store in Town in a bit of a panic in a bit of a sprint with the bike, but, it 55 was still there right where I left it. I breathed a sigh of relief and unplugged and put it away in the camera pouch. Half an Oak Tree outside of Union along Highway 219. It is past 6:30 and I’ve found this little place that is barely big enough for the tent under some shrubs and trees beside the road. I don’t think there is anything else within miles of here that is suitable, because as I stated in yesterday’s notes, the farms here are back to back, salt and peppered with farm houses and fences that come right out the to the road which means, no place to hide a tent. I was really lucky to find this place; I almost missed it because the way to it is a slight bit of backtracking along a guard railing, over an incline and down a weedy path. It seems okay, not that comfortable, but it is shady in the hot sun and there is the privacy of being under brush cover. Problem is, this seems to be an animal trail and I’ve put the tent up in the middle of the trail. We will see what happens, but there may be some pissed off wildlife tonight, hopefully nothing too big I can’t handle. There seems to be a number of medium sized ants that are checking the tent out, but I didn’t notice any nests around close by, perhaps this is just on the food run trail and they will leave me alone. I don’t want to end up with ants all over the tent in the middle of the night like I did in Tennessee on my last trip in 2011. It is still in the Pickaway town area I think, unless it is some other little unincorporated town along 219 between Pickaway and Lewisburg – I’m only about 14 miles from Lewisburg now, that’s why I have not dilly dallied about finding a camping spot because I think from here on in it is 56 houses and farms in a bigger way with even less of a chance of camping spots. Text and photos © All Rights Reserved by Peter Tanner and Ernestartist