Sipsey Portraits, a book of poems and essays about Sipsey and its
Transcription
Sipsey Portraits, a book of poems and essays about Sipsey and its
· by Rose Mayer Ftes' and by . Milton H. Fits Ala. 818.52 Fie STATE Of ALABAMA PUBLIC LIBRARY SERVICE MONTGOMERY, P,L 1111/~~ffl~~~~I~~r~illl~~~lllimM~~III~ 85-05835 3 1291 00141 2277 SIPSEY '. POR TRAITS* . by Rose Mayer Fies '':'.. *The verses which follow were published in 1943 in a private printing under the title "Sipsey Portraits and Other Poems ", Those included here refer only to Sipsey and its environs in Wallc~r County. •• '.' " IMPRESSION ", A white house, dreaming in the gallant shade Of oaks, long old and ivyed, " A gate, a tawny road, An orchard, April's lace upon its boughs, A lilac twilight. and a whi te star bur ni.ng, Unstirring night of silver, And a bird's bold ecstasy. These etched the'i.r spell so deep upon my soul " None else 'could so much love their loveliness! ., 'BELLE c , " 'RUSSELL . " Small head, white face, , And slim with tho rough=br-ed slimness, A coat of chestnut s a.ti.n, Eyes, clear-deep, as a doe ts , As deep-but wiser, mo r'e ac ceptjng , Wher e quiet woods shut out the dissonant wor-Ld; , When April's, on the hills, I see youI earring lightly on the wind, I feel your flexing grace beneath me, I see yo~r soft ears flick! It cannot be that you are quiet, cold. You of steel limbs. and ribs of steel, You , fleet and fierce as wind and fire. And sweet as Spring! It must be s ril.Lyou rac'ebeside the wind ' In wide Elysian meadow; Or idling. pat~ent, stand at pasture - 1 - bars! STATE Of ALABAMA PUBLIC LIBRARY SERVICE f\10NTGOMERY, AL PINES AT SIPSEY What mighty wedge did cleave these hills apart Gashing to reedy river? ..Old wounds that bared a rock-Iedged heart Are long, long healed, and glisten now With laces, and the pale brocades of Spring. Naught. but the stream IS low song Or frightened foot of wild thing Severs the silence •. Pillared with lordly pines, these hofl ows are :w'h0se heads upreaching Dwell in .the calm, sweet sunlight. P~le fern, uncurl in shade of slaty-brown trunks And gnarled roots shelter smoke-blue violets. Splendid and calm, they watch the :stars wheel past These trees, that fe ar not fire or tangling tempest. Splendid, they dream the centuries away In silent benediction •. r "MR. SQUARE" ./ Had slavers let his jungle grandsir.es be A chieftain he Id have been - the chi~ftain type, Laconic, shrewd, aloof, in wisdom ripe, Elder in council-no bush-beater he! Singing a low chant, he faced summer IS sun, Black tor scLean and glistening through the tatters, Sun-down, the task V?as done, an:d nothing matters, His pitying Lord .ha.d heard, cool rest is won! One day he arnbl ed slowly to the door Gr-eat shouid,ers slumped? a pinchedandpalsiedlook Eyes-reddened, and the strong limbs almost shook! Fever, I saw, FO need to question more. "Missus, I knows you+s sorry"-this with grace, "But a SIck nigge.rls no use on di s place! If - 2 - • •• 85-05835 MARY ROGERS Could those eyes once have raptured to the rose The snuff-blurred mouth known pink a~d pearl of youth Before the years' defection had scared the heart? Matter not rain or sun, she scuttled by In slatted bonnet and bedraggled skirt Seeking day work from those a shade less poor, To tend the sick, or pick the cotton; Hoarding the pitiful, few perice To stay her clear of whining beggary And hush the hunger of her nall1:eless brood! She said, one day sno hint ..of bitterness"Lor', bread and water's al lT'e ve r ia.sked l " I watched the lacquered 'continents of sunset Shrink to grey isl~ts. The sting of life's immitigable scourge. That night" tormented sleep! JOE' ROBERTS.; A giant's sinew arid a glant+s stride And litheness such as swinging ax strokes make. When, with deft hands, the embers he would rake; "You got to git back, Misti s ;!' hewoul'd chide; Fix a patina'd back-log in its place And pile the acrid oak -wood chimney high. Le api.ng Lazul i.ne, red flames would defy 'A fro'zen world in winter IS still embrace. One Spring, his childless Julia looked ?- ghost .A. wailing infant in "their hous e brought strife, -The mother, simple Lena, ca sual wife. Joe beamed his fatherhood, impenitent boast, Standing within the doorway of his shack, Said: "Cap In, I had to see what my Chile would look lak. " - 3 - CHARLIE AMOS Hi s face was coppered by relentless heat, ' Being a fireman at the power plant. His job to keep the turbines' tireless chant, His job to keep the engines' constant beat. When March was shouting, with a. boisterous mirth He'd beg a day off-trivial holiday And set small cabbage seedlings" and would say He loved the coolness of. the mo.ist brown earth. One dawn, before the dew' had steeped to musk There carne a gentle tapping on the pane And frightened an.swer, eager to expl.ainz "Amo s , Boss -Tn a Ir ac a s 'long bout dusk, Snagged :myoId lady, wid:my knife, you see! Wants you ter keep" de she r Iff .pff er me! " RED-BEARD I could not pass aga.infha.t lonely' house Crouched in the hollow, sheltering beeches bare, But I must see her -s m ll lng , friendly there, Children about her skirts, his patient spouse, She churned and cooked and gardened, quilted, spun, Had trained a honeysuckle by the door And through the leaden years, twelve children bore. She had earned rnor e fr orn life than she had won. He was a 'grave and silent rna.n, red-shocked Master of children, woman, house and land. When Death led his worn, tired wife by the hand ~ith shdeking la:mentations, fate he :mocked. But-she a legend. must she shadow life? Two crescent moons -a girl he took for wife! - 4 - THE MELON MAN ., l '. There "was the grey rail-fence that zlg vz agged by, There, the high pasture, mullein stalks wool-flecked; I see the nail-stained bo use , drab with neglect And tall dark pines against a, saffron sky, How many gerie r a tioris had ·known bounty From this, his land, I cannot surely say, But the rich loam di d still abundant 'pay, He grew the finest melo'~s i n the county, When crops were in, th e-c ir cui ts he would ride, Thin-lipped and impe r tunba.bl e as stone; But. in July, he'd hitch his flea-bit roan And peddle melons', old wife by his s ide , "TomW~tsons! Kleckley Sweets! " at hot noon-tide. "Fine wate r me lon.s ! Kleckley Sweets! " he cr ie d, KATRINA , Youth vanished seemed so lustered, seemed so fair 'To her - tranquil, accepting miner's-wife. Stone -cleated poverty had trampled life But only eyes told, as'eyes'sometimes dare! Often a welcome guest at my hearth-side, Settling her huge hulk in an easy chair, With fragrant, warming cup, forgetting- care, Would tell of .Spr i.ngs long gone, thus fortified. And' hez-e , as knitting needles glinted bright She+d pictur-e her far home beyond the sea, Icy ca.nal a , gold tulips blooming free, Ardent and guileiess, with a sharp delight. , "And on our wedding-day'" - she would ::epeat, "Hans bought me all the cherries I could eat. " - 5 - • COMMISSIONER The ord~red furrows quilted his brown field. First time I saw him Limply astride his weary nag Corning in from the hill's rim, As day to darkness wheeled. Pale Spring's fleet loveliness was turning. Jonquils, defiant, phalanzed the swept yard. He was lean. with a bi r d !s "eye, beady and hard His clothes reeked of wood+smoke From the winter's bur nirig, One year his lumbering oxen Drew great loadsThe glory of the forest, hewn to ties, The ancient wilderness" hewn to cross -ties. That year the spur was built-the coal railroad. But mostly, ,season in and out," he 'd wait On trivial business at the County e se at ; His was a world of slow, unhurrying feet; The prisoning hills had waited-he could wait. We met right often, where upsurged the trail, Always the day' was brighter. He 'd not fail to wave this greeting With feigned sanctimony, And eyes that laughed: "L'zn br aggin I on your pony. II -6 - • by Rose Mayer .Fie's '. ii f,la,e m,ll-It: w.ith 4 and £, itjkt by Milton H. Fits Ala. 818.52 Fie '" 6n His e4p" ,. STATE Of ALABAMA PUBLIC LIBRARY SEHVICE MONTGOMERY, 1111~~lliilul~~~)liliili~III-- PIt 85-05835 3 1291 00141 2277 SIPSEY ~~POR TRAr"TS~:' , ','. by Rose Mayer Fies . ' " *The verses which follow were published in 1943 in a private printing under the title "Sipsey Portraits and Other Poems It. Those included here refer only to Sipsey and its environs in Walke r County. IMPRESSION A white house dreaming in the gapant shade Of oaks, long old and ivye d, A gate. a tawny road, An orchard, April's lace upon its boughs, A lilac twilight, and a white star burning. Unstirring night of silver, And a bird's bold ecstasy. These etched their spell so deep upon my soul , None else could so much love their loveliness! 1 BELLE RUSSELL " " Small head. white face And slim with thorough-bred slimness, A coat of chestnut satin. Eyes, clear-deep, asad<!>e's, As deep-but wiser, rno r'e ac c ept ing , Where quiet woods shut out the dissonant wor l d; When April's, on the hills I see you leaning lightly on the wind, I feel your flexing grace beneath me, I see yo~r soft ears flick! It cannot be that you are quiet, cold, You of steel limbs, and ribs of steel, You, fleet and fierce as wind and fire, And sweet as Spring! It must be s tfl Lyou race beside the wind In wide El ys ian meadow, Or idling, patient, stand at pasture bars! - 1 - STATE Of ALABAMA PUBUC LIBRARY SERVICE ~40NTGOMERY, AL PINES AT SIPSEY What rrrighty wedge did cleave these hills apart Gashing to reedy river? ..Old wounds that bared a rock-Iedged heart Are long, long healed, and glisten now With laces, and the pale brocades of Spring. Naught but the stream's low song Or frightened foot of wild thing Severs the silence. Pillared with lordly pines, these hollows are Whose heads upreaching Dwell in .the calm, sweet sunlight. P~le fern, uncurl in shade of slaty-brown trunks And gnarled roots shelter smoke-blue violets. Splendid and calm, they watch the stars wheel past These trees, that fear not fire or tangling tempest. Splendid. they dream the centuries away In silent benediction. "MR. SQUARE" Had slavers let his jungle grandsires be A chieftain he'd have been - the chieftain type, Laconic, shrewd, aloof. in wisdom ripe, Elder in council-no bush-beater he! Singing a low charrt , he faced summer's sun, Black torso lean and glistening t~rough the tatters, Sun-down, the task ~as done, and nothing matters, His pitying Lord had heard, cool rest is won! One day b.e arnbl.ed slowly to the door Great shoulders slumped, a pinched and pals ied look Eyes reddened, and the strong limbs almost shook! Fever, I saw, no need to question more. "Mi s sus , I knows yours sorry"-this with grace, "But a s i ck nigger's no use on di s place! " - 2 - 85-05835 MARY ROGERS Could those eyes once have raptured to the rose The snuff-blurred mouth known pink a~d pearl of youth Before the years' defection had scared the heart? Matter not rain or sun, she scuttled by In slatted bonnet and bedraggled skirt Seeking day work from those a shade less poor, To tend the sick, or pick the cotton; Hoarding the pitiful, few pence To stay her clear of whining beggary And hush the hunger of her na~eless brood! She said, one day eno hint iof bitterness"Lor'. bread and water's all' T'eve r asked!" I watched the lacquered continents of sunset Shrink to grey isl~ts The sting of life's immitigable scourge. That night., tormented sleep! 0 JOE' ROBER TS A giant's sinew and a giant's stride And litheness such as swinging ax strokes rna.ke , When, with deft hands, the embers he would rake; "You got to git back, Mi sti s ;" he' would chide; Fix a patina'd back-log in its place And pile the acrid oak -wood chimney high. Leaping Ia zul i.ne , red flames would defy 'A froo'zenworld in winter's still embrace. One Spring, his childless Julia looked ~ ghost f>. wailing infant in "their house brought strife, The mother, simple Leria , casual wi fe , Joe beamed his fatherhood, impenitent boast, Standing within the doorway of his shack, Sa idz "Cap 'rr, I had tc:>see what my Chile would look l ak , " - 3 - CHARLIE AMOS Hi s face was coppered by relentles s heat, Being a fireman at the power plant. His job to keep the turbines' tireless chant, His job to keep the engines' constant beat. When March was shouting, with a boisterous mirth He'd beg a day off-trivial holiday And set small cabbage seedlings," and would say He loved the coolness of the moist brown earth. One dawn, before the dew had steeped to musk There carne a gentle tapping on the pane And frightened answer, eager to explain: "Amos, Bos s -Tn a fr a ca s 'long bout dusk, Snagged my old lady, wid my knife , you see! Wants you ter keep de she r lff off er me! " There was th There, the hi I see the nail And tall dark How many From thi s, hi But the rich I He grew the f' When crops Thin-lipped an But, in July, h And peddle mel "Tom Watsons "F"i ne watermel RED-BEARD I could not pass ag a.inLha.t lonely house Crouched in the hollow, sheltering beeches bare, But I must see her smiling, friendly there, Children about her skirts, his patient spouse, She churned and cooked and gardened, quilted, spun, Had trained a honeysuckle by the door And through the leaden years, twelve children bore. She had earned more from life than she had won. He was a "grave and silent man, red-shocked Master of children, woman, house and land. When Death led his worn, tired wife by the hand ~ith shrieking lamentations, fate he mocked. But-she a l ege nd , must she shadow life? Two crescent moons -a girl he took for wife! - 4 - Youth vanished s To her - tranqu Stone -cleated po But only eyes tol Often a welcome Settling her huge With fragrant, w Would tell of Spri And here, as k Sbe+d picture her Icy canals. gold t Ardent and guilel "And on our weddl "Hans bought me THE MELON MAN that ~ig -zagged by. There "was the grey rail-fence There, the high pasture, mullein stalks wool-flecked; I see the nail-stained house, drab with neglect And tall dark pines against a saffron sky. How many generations had known bounty From this, his land, I cannot surely say, But the rich loam did still abundant pay, He grew the finest melons in the county. When crops were in, the- circuits he would ride, Thin-lipped and imperturbable as stone; But,. in July. he'd hitch his flea-bit roan And peddle melons, old wife by his side. "Tom Watsons! Kleckley Sweets! " at hot noon vti de , "Fine wa te r rnel on s ! Kleckley Sweets! " he cr ie d, KATRINA Youth vanished seemed so lustered, seemed so fair To her - tranquil, accepting miner's-wife. Stone -cleated poverty had trampled life But only eyes told, as eyes sometimes dare! Often a welcome guest at my hearth-side, Settling her huge hulk in an easy chair, With fragrant, warming cup, forgetting" care, Would tell of Springs long gone, thus fortified. And her e , as knitting needles glinted bright She+d pictu.r e her far home beyond the sea, Icy canals, gold tulips blooming free. , Ardent and guileiess, with a sharp delight • . "And on our wedding-day" - she would ~epeat, "Hans bought me all the cherries I could eat. " - 5- BROTHER HUGGINS He trampled the village roads in snow and sun With high concern, his good deeds never done. Sought all unc1eansed of tears and sin and pain Washing away with prayer and love, each stain. The code of eye for eye, he could not preach His God loved mercy and was .near to reach. His words the strength of sil errt hills disclosed The calm of stars and quiet falling snows. No desert coul d have dried "his heart's sweet springThese hills, his name with blessing long will ring. THREE Mary and Bert and Rags":" One a black sprite with wrapped hair, One in a starched pinafore, The other, a dog with an air. ''I met Brer Rabbit in a snow -bal l fiel' 'Bout a mile and a half fr1pll town And I said to Brer Rabbit, ef you doan watch out I'll ketch you '.£0 de sun go down. " Dancing in sun-split shade Life was .a long holiday Life was a tinkling harp Singing of dolls and play. < Mary and Bert and Rags One a black sprite wi th wrapped hair, One in a starched pinafore, The other, a dog with an air. - 7 - LOST BIRD OF PASSAGE Blown down a windy sky, wing -weary, Seeing the stretch of sward As the ern er al d surface of a lake, pe r haps, It sank onto the 'grass Lost fr orn its fellows, in search of reedy refuge, It lay spent - the wild heart racing. Friendly hands gave sanctuary! Then, a child's hand freed it, Flashing to the blue The wild heart quivered As it arrowed to the blue And tilted toward the 'north. Burnished Bird .of Passage. River sedges beckon, Reedy refuge beckons. We, too, are 'birds of passage Searching for a refuge. ANOTHER GARDEN And there's a garden hedged a!:>outwi tlr dr earns , Far fr orn these dissonant years' bewildering din; What honeyed wealth its ancient rnoul d did win, Of succulents, of early corn's pearl glearn , Of rubied fruits. I see its flower -edged walks, The sentry J:1ollyhocks at low-swung gate, A whip-poor -will cornpl.ai.ne at evening late, Night lillies breathe pe r furne on slender stalks. Blythe children, played at ladies in this close, High heels, and veils, and dolls-procession fair; And one with deep-fringed eyes and shining hair Did so her guileless -grace on rne impos e , Did so ensnare rrie, with her elfin art, Both child and garden now live in rny heart. - 8 - • TRAM BRIDGE -SIPSEY COAL MINE I watched a bridge rise once From incohesive sands, prone length of girder, With purr of stearn and strain of engine, To thing of rooted stone, with low-swung truss And certain beauty, sweeping a rock-trimmed river. Then, from the bank, secure and high . ledges. Where laurel, leaning, bloomed 'on grey-green I watched the motors, built like battleshipsThough instruments of peace ~ I watched these drawing sinuous length of tram, Herculean rosary of shining j et .. Roar from the tunnel black, l arnps saffron stars, And in mad clip, dang on the, bridge. A titan-sinewed youth sat at controls, Unmindful of the couchant terror snarling And spitting sparks above his bright, blown hair. Trip-riders .• bantering negroes, guarded couplings Their pliant bodies r~cking to the movement And hum of steel on steel And windy curve attained, Then, rigor from end to end of dying motion Moiling of men, to sure the stop with apr ag s , Irascible. last sputter of blue sparksThe splintered coal is safe upon the tipple. A sleeping giant, born of the primal fusings, Wakened to do man IS will. - .' - 9 - NEGR 0 SINGING The church-house windows are gol.den, Are gold, at the sunset time, And the clanging bell in the belfry. Rings out its clumsy chime., Dusk creeps over misty meadow, And folds her soft wings about; A silence sinks on the weary world, And the first faint stars ac-e out. Then a haunting, minor music. Its cadence vibrant and strong. Floats out, over misty meadow And wakens th~ night with song. A chant of hallelujahs Ecstatic chant of praise, The low hills e cho the Afric' As the wailing voices raise~ dirge Then slowly the singing ce a s e s The throbbing hymn is s tifl ed, Orion strides in the blue-black sky,' And the night with peace is filled .. - 10 - UNCLE CHARLIE I know 'tis true that black skin May cover a heart of gold; Charles Nettles had coal black skin And he had a heart of gold. His folks were gentle white folk From Carolina's shore; " They gave him gentle rnarme r s , Their courtliness he bore. , Lover of children was he, Patient and jocul a.r; My picture of him and a" smal.l girl Is clear as 'a new-cut sta.r , A court ~as held each evening, A court on the corn-crib stair, An elf of a girl was the Princess And he was the Jester there. Lover of dumb things was he, Hostler superb, I'd say.; Just a lowly black man was he Hearts ached when he died-that - 11 - day! THE HUNT < "Missus, ' fa Gawd You hadn't ought ter skeer me, lak yo doe s , Again off, s 'fer in de deep woods, . Jes you 'n yo hoss! You ain't hyeard? Well-a black rapscalion Done broke de prison camp dis mawnin, Hot-footin twow'd de river! High Sher Iff "n Cap 'n done rode off together More 'ri a hour gone! No'm-dey ain't huntin da t nigger. Dey's huntin - you! I been a settin here dis ve 'y minute Studin 'bout saddlin Jeems, "n takin de big road! Now, look he~e Missus-· T'ain't lak us was living on our pl.ace Shet off-lak us belongs, Den, you .co ul d roam fur es you pl ea s e , But, Mis s us , I ca in tt trus de high -road, Sense de .Cap'n brung dis coa~ camp here! Too many tramps -a progin 'round, Jes changin scenes -dat's all. I ax yer, Mis sus 'Suppose "n dat run-a-way Needin' yo hoss ter fetch him to de river, What gwine hinder him from takin' hit? Night a 'comin on-you a ploddin thru de bresh? Hi.ts s can Tous ! I'se pow'ful glad yer didn't meet up wid him! Well-dis pony sho needs rubbin down. She's lathin hot. Missus - a good night to ye! " I did not say, that in the shuttered wood, Nearing the river, I met (poor wretch), the. black rapscallion, A boy, barefoot, and breathless. . He passed me, cowering, With a "Good evenin', Missus, 11 Heading straight for - -I hope he reached The river! - 12 - • .. INCIDENT A meek sun , in a brittle skyof blue, . Air, frosted wine, after the Autumn's fever. The long road lured me. . My mare stood ready, eager to ?e off, Yet munched contentedly the sugar lumps. Which eyes and garnet nostrils, quivering, begged. Down snake -fenced lan~, we ha.un.ched ;: Then, upland, in a canter through the camp. Passed tidy houses. watching .cl os e the road, And winter gardens; , Passed. rambling store, where the casual menloiteredMen from the coal pits, Last shift's grime upon them;' Old grime and a wea r ine s s' upon them. Turned in "Square Phillips' Way" . Where a new babe , three days befo r e , Had joined a plenteous brood. Splendor of sumac, edged the .dust-grey road, The beeches flaunted 'tattered cloaks of gold, A cardinal dipped swiftly, 'caus'e the 'path Like a bright blossom tossed. " Crows clattered in the stubble. My mare stopped at the brimming branch to drink In deep-drawn dr aughts; Then, always as her way. raised high her head, Posed, momentarily, a thing of bronze against low p~~es; Turned and skimmed lightly on the road again. I thought upon the mother of the babe A,s .on I -r ode , ~ife burns to blossom ear-ly in these hills And early withers, old. Girl-wife she was, when youth had scarce begun, Clearing the land and hewing logs For their first horne, beside her manShe oft had, told me- - 13 - \ . Goaded the steers to rip the furrows deep, Knowing so well her part; Bore many children, spun arid wove and baked Through barren winter and relentless spring. Now, hope and fear was lulled in tir~d face, Leaving it ashen-wistful. I reached at length the weathered house Set close against dark wood. Out a door, into a wind - swept hail A woman started. 1 thought to find her tended by her neighbors And resting, after birth-pangs. Her dark eyes with .an agony burned fierce, The pallor of her travail still upon her. "Corne in, " she said, ''1 'rn glad you come, You h 'yeard about rn ' boy', Ill' first-unHow sick he is -lung fever! O-the lest-un? .Hit's toler 'bl.e, I reckin, I haint had heart ter rrrind hit. " "The doctor -I rnus t fetch him! ". I turned to go. "Naw, . corne on in 'n see him. ,* I followed the frail form Into the sick-room I heard the rasp of breath Through fevered lips. I " " Men Iol l edby the great logs, in rnuddy boots; F'r om shadowy corner, wide -eyed children gaped. Hounds doze din cornfo r t by'the wide hearth's cir cle , Where lard was rendering in huge iron pots. A"cry like anew l arnb+s Carne from the bed, where, swathed in cotton quilt, The infant lay , beside the sick boy! "I must not steal the precious air, " I said, pressing the worna n+s hand, "I'll send the doctor. " - 14 - • -----r~------------------------------------------------------------------------ With more than usual haste My knowing mare covered. the tape of road, Splashing through Sipsey' branch' Into the quiet village. Befo r e the next moon waned I sought the farm-house. Bronzed children played about the clean-swept yard. My horse's whinny brought the woman, Smiling, to the s tep " 'Light and rest a spell, ", she called. Some gaudy quilt scraps Lay about the floor in disarray,' beside the cradle. "He's hearty now-a s common, " In answer to my query. "He and his Paw is s ta.rti.n' winter plowin'The least-un's prety, haint she"? - 15 - CAP How well do I recall the day This boy carne to the gateA stripling, bronzed and weathered, In faded clothe s and horne -rriade shoe s , A certain freshness of the woods about him. The blue eyes prisoned laughter. They were the blue of waves With sunlight through them. The breeze ran its fine fingers Through his hair , Bright and of tousled thickness. Hedge -r ow and wayside said the year was old, With amethyst fruit, and aster •. Love's lamp befor e me, 1 had corne , stranger, to this still land, A sanctuary from the peopled ways Of city, and old sorrow's chastening. Here, brave adventure Peered from jet-ribbed hills, Old, old adventure, and youth's spangled dream To make more tolerable The simple world Of men who wrested treasure From these hills! This _child's grave greeting, somehow, Made the silence of the hills more f'riendl ye "I hyeard about you comin' out from town And 'lowed you'se lonesome. I'm dri vin' up the cows, I thought I'd stop. Maw sent a mess er crowders In this poke. They're sorry, hits a 'ben s ' dry. And on he chattered: - 16 - II ---------~---=---=----------------- I CAP I· How well do I recall the day This boy carne to the gateA stripling, bronzed and weathered, In faded clothe s and horne -rna.de shoe s , A certain freshness of the woods about him. The blue eyes prisoned laughter. They were the blue of waves With sunlight through them. The breeze ran its fine fingers Through his hair , Bright and of tousled thickness. 'I Hedge -row and wayside said the year was old, With amethyst fruit, and aster .. Love's lamp before me, T had corne , stra.nger, to this still land, A sanctuary from the peopled ways Of city, and old sorrow's cha s teni.ng, Here, brave adventure Peered from jet-ribbed hills, Old, old adventure; and youth's spangled dream To make more tolerable The simple world Of men who wrested treasure From these hills! This child's grave greeting, somehow, Made the silence of the hills more friendly: "I hyeard about you comin' out from town 1,1 And 'lowed you'se Ione sorne , L'rn drivin' up the cows, I thought I'd stop. Maw sent a mess er crowders In this poke. They're sorry. hits a 'ben s ' dry. " And on he chattered: - 16 - • ------ "Septernbe r gales will soon be here, You ought ter git the gyarden Broke right soon. Pap seys I'll go to school When craps is in. This porch is nice, We has so little 'ti.rrie to set We don+t need none. And Pap he says when I grows up Mebbe fill run a motor At the rrrine a, II Sweet youth, how unaf;aid, How unbew'il.de r e d. How wide the sky, How bright ~e dr earn l Gales ca me , and slanting rains And me.ll ow weather. Auturnn flashed c r irn son on the hills And winter turned. IICap1s sick, II the lllessage carrie One sullen day. Per ched on a slant' of hill The cabin stood in sodden fields. Clay-chinked and windowless. A buttre s s of rude chi rrm ey Flanked one end. Old wooden wash-tubs on a shelf, 'The other. Sorne dangling gourds And strings of withered peppers Swung by the open door. Th.e zmo th e r stood within. The years had winnowed All of youth and beauty Leaving a burnt-out husk, Li rnp, leaden-eyed. - 17 - "Aint doin no good. I brought him back this evenin To his bed. I co:me on in From washin. late, and missed I found him'neath the floors. Cap's head's a 'wander in. " The child lay on a rude bed Dressed as always In faded jeans and jacket; The small, limp feet Still wore the heavy shoes! him By feeble fire-light's flicker I sensed the altered eyes' unknowing stare. The anguished form, A smiting fear pos"'sessed me lo pitying God! 0, childhood's dream! The next day I held a smoky lamp For city doctors, Who shook their heads And left the shadowy cabin. On a wind-bitten hill 'Midst lurching head-boards There gaped a shallow grave. Nothing of comfort near, No mothering grass, no flowerOnly a wilderness of stones, The .gashed· earth-waiting, An anguished singing surged, A keen pitched prayer; Th e grate of spades, -A woman moaning. The swaying wagons Lumbering toward home Against low-flying clouds And tortured West. - 18 - • ------------- ----_ ... _- --- PENELOPE Slow-,dyi~g autumn lingered. The distant hills were blue veils in the west, Southward the wild duck a r r owed., crying scorn, And late br onz ed pears hung heavy. A figure spare, unvanquished by the years, She ruled the old scrubbed kitchen's fragr.ant world. Which looked beyond the patches' of gold sedge Onto a lonely road., ' Forever singing, pl a.i.ntd ve at her work, An alien chant, She seemed a sorceress with magic flame. "No+m I couldn't lak no black man, But look at "YhutI' s come to! He's s "bl a ck , de coal dus kinder velvets him Da's all, it can 't make him no blacker. But t'want' no livin lef me; . I look out on de do-step, dar he -s e t Plagin me, night 'n day. I's 'bliged ter ~a~ry him, .\1. Ter git shut uv him. Well, one day's lak de yuthe r , enyhow •. Sence Swinger's gone. . I say, Miss. you aint yet h 'yeard bout Swinger? Well-'twas this a-way: . . My daddy was puore Injun, My mammy's Paw , a white man, ,My mammy a Mulatta. New, whut would you call me? But, enyhow, das .how-c orne my bright skin And straight, black hair. Plaits way down rn ' .ba.ck when fus I knowed h irn, Winged in from South Ga'lina When I was jes a chile. Us'ter tell me bout his home Where all de water's brackish 'N alligaters bellered in de swamps. - 19 - We'd meet up on de creek banks. Both loved ter fish. I'd beg off cleanin house rno s ev'y time 'N Mammy 'd send me fishin. Big part Injun he wus, I called him a 'red nigger. ' Sandy-haired 'n s tr appi n; I rech up to his arm-pits In high heels. We lived in Georgie sand flats •. He was a pitch-pine wucker. Sometimes sawyer -good at enything he tried I I turned fifteen, we married'. A pretty place our horne, Plenty e r clare. swif water 'n.brown pine straw 'N Lawd, de Bob-Whites 'n de Mockin birds!" Quiet winds a "hlowl.ng over level Bringing scent of pine and peach Shifting stir of shadow, patterns There is no land so lovely as my mead, and tall mint weed. the gold sand. Georgia land • . ''1 had a sight to do to keep things tidy My shack 'n gyarden. a grove e r pecans, Cows 'n, chickens 'n a passel er houndsI loved 'ern-so much comp'ny. We treed a. many a fat possum in de moon-light •. I called ern "chil.l.un, I allers right behin' me. r had rno s everything I wanted. Pieced quilts after dark; In quilted tooMy frames is packed down now. He never spoke a hard word ter me, Miss. Pay days he'd go ter town In stay a spellMostly de boss's business, he would say. Bring back a length uv calico or muslin, - 20 - An once he brought to me Some red-top shoes! N'om, dey want no chillun, Scusin his outside gal I raisedI thought de whole world uv her, bein his 'n , She's settled now in Jefferson. 'Bout ten year gone, one day A notion tuk him, 'Wanderin foots", I called hit. He hye ar d a 'bout des Alabama coal minesNothin could t e'rn him, Pack our things,. we mus , 'n, rnove.l I allus thought de pitch-pine camps .In Geor gie had er holt on him, lak Satan. I didn't know. So, ,in a mislin" rain,' we comes ,/ ter Mulga. Lawd, a diffunt land fum Georgie! I thought de win would ren me Dat fus winter, so keen 'n vengeful, Roarin thu dem hollers. 'N Spring, s ' slow. Dogwood s ' late a whitenin. I looked ter hear de owls Hoot in de day time, De wood s' wild. 'N berry bresh s ' thick A wild hawg could a tangled. But twus pritty 'n I got ter lak hit. Houses on de hill-slopes, Mud-cat a plenty in de creeks. 'N den de sto! Dey had mas erry thing you wanted In dat sto. 'N near -by wus de doctah 'n tooth dentisHe set dese gold teeth fer me. - 21 - 'N skerry es I wus , I didn't study 'bout Dat deep shaf mine. Swinger wus smart 'n he larned fas. T'want long befo de bank boss Say he wus a fus class miner. " Where diamond drill had marked it For man's very own, Ea.rth disgorged her treasure Through a maw of age -ol d stone, Fragile fern stirred ove r rhe ad and pale ane rrroria'e And grim unconquered pines that had stood a century. Change of shifts, the whis tle 's 'shriek Rips the ambient a{r, Grimy cyclops trek toward horne And s impl e fare •. The clanging cage rests not, He must stretch upon ,his bed .I And arm his soul with sleep To earn tomorrow's bread. "We had a fus class house, A hoss and buggy 'n wus doin well. I run de boardin house ter keep me busy. I never see'd de lak er hongry folks T' want never too much chicken, pies 'n cat fish.' Well'm, fus thing I knowed, Swinger, he turned up rni s s in-eMin.ers is odd simetimes. Stayed off two weeks, den back at horne. I wus s 'glad-I didn't ax no questions. He never did set any sto by talkin. One day dat fall, when "s irnrnons gittin meller, In he comes Right early from de mines. - 22 - I thought he, gwine ter town He slicked up so", Hooked up his rig an down de road: A little later -pas s he dri v A bright skinned gal beside him. I didn't pay no '.tention, Had rrry supper pots ter rrrin , I's fr achus when I' s cookin! In late dat night, I didn't say much to h irn , 'cep 'Honey, how you lak dis red bow i.nzny hair '? He jes looked in de fire 'N didn't answer. I didn't lak his eye s Dey sorter chilled rn e ! . Things rocked on a spell; Den-sho's yo' bawn One day, after de fus blak fros, He COITleon in right early; Bathed, et, pu sb.ed back his chair And said di s ter rne s .J 'Honey, lis leayin here tornor r er , lis takin dat bright gal wl.d rrre, Yo rent is paid fer six months 'N here 's enuf ter tide >youover. He thowed a roll e r bills across de table 'N looked right out de winder. I didn't speak. Felt kinder blind 'N: went out-do's ter ketch SOITleair. COITleter rrie fus ter git rny knife, But nO'ITl, I couldn't do dat to h irn ! .1 je e set on de steps a while, 'N got still inside. Den, COITleon in 'n say: 'Swinger, whut tt me y'awl Ie a.vi.n"? He say: "Twix five 'n six. l's arrrin Ter ketch de Dude ter town. ' 'Awright, bring de gal roun', l.say- - 23 - 'I'll cook yo brekfus-' -'~nd he say, 'Sho'. I 'In up 'bout fo , ben studin All night long. Fixed brekfus, Fried chicken, biscuits, coffee 'N s orne uv rny bes jelly I sets out fer ern , De gal-no older 'n his chileShe wan't hongry. He cleaned his plate. r see'd ern to de do '. De gal looked cold. Her coat wus thin •. I say, 'here's rrry old dog bed coat. You better take hit, You'll nigh freeze ef you don't • .' He put it round he r , he l pe dhe r in de rr ig , 'N waved "g ood=bye", I sawein round de bend 'N Honey-'fo Gawd-« Sorn ep 'n busted in rny brain. Lak a bat fr urn tor-rnent , In dat house I shot. Snatched down de winder curtains, To 'e up de bed, r ak ed dishes off de table 'N in de £10 I piled things " Lak a rabbit's house, fer shoo • Den it corne s ter rne ter burn ern , 'N sho nuff , I drags ern thn de do'. Makes up a bon-fireEven de piarie r I busts. ter kindlin, "Twant nothin lef dat day When I got thu, Den" in de hous e I goe s , ca lrn as you is, 'ries Up'InY tlrirnbl eful e r cl o s ' 'N straight ter Mr. Bob's. Stays on his place a good long spell, Corne s over me ter keep on mo vin, 'N here 1 is. - 24 - • , ''1 keeps my quilts washed up an sunnedHe all us wus perticular 'bout his bed. I know, some day, when he is plum wor e out He'll come back home. " Ulysses, recreant wanderer, Wherever you may be Circe must guess that sea-cold gaze' Speaks of Penelope. Your Spring's long gone, UlyssesIt was Penelope's. , Turn home-.she listens for your stepPenelope. - 25 - PLAINT Lawd, how long dis freeze gwine las I? Mah sperits sho is droopin fas '. Got on so much dat I crowds de do, Yit lain "t never ben so cold befo: Mah wood is low, en dey ain It no coal; Folks say de railroads can lt hardly roll. De water hydr ant+s fr iz , en ma:h collard IS burned black IDo I kivered ern 'over wid rnarry a sack. Mah hands is ashy and mah foot's fros -bit Mah coal-oil lamp jes wont stay lit. I can't hep wishin hit was water -melon time 'Do Ilse hurtin lak I won't see water-melon time. Lawd, Yo chillun is sho beset! It don' hep none but I.frets 'n fret. Lawd, please Sir, melt dis mess er snow I promises, Jesus, to vex you no mo. SNOW INTER VAL Today. stricken world woke, hushed To a feather's fall from the wing of a thrush; The _charted homely world I know Was blurred out, with a new-laid snow. An alien world, swathed head to feet In a swan's -down winding sheet. "Sati.n=s mooth bride cakes on bird-bath and post, Dark pines turned into herded ghosts. And a bewildered cardinal, bright, Snow-blind-stained the relentless white. Lltsr ?,4-~tJ? B'1 Mp..~TteS - PbeJl1S 26- • • r--------~------------------- .. and lfe~'i./N/~ "f,ke man: w-itk a IJF/l1A £itkt by Milton H. Fies Gn His FIttS eGt;' THE MAN WITH A LIGHT ON HIS CAP** Being a Brief Chronicle of Coal Mining in Walker County 1912-1·960 by Milton H. Fies **This bit of history of coal m inl.ng in Walker Cou~ty was cornpi.l ed at the request of Congress~ Inan Carl Elliott of the 7th District of Al abarna for Volume III of the "Annals of Northwest AlabaInat of which he is the editor. The rna in purpose of this printing, however, is for distribution among SOIne 150 to 200 mine workers in Walker County who were the author's associates in the DeBardeleben Coal Corporation SOIne forty to fifty years ago. - 29 - FOREWORD History, which Abraham Lincoln, admonished us we "cannot escape ", is a record of men and events. The interpretation of the exploits of men and- the implicatiop. of events in any given period, are not always made .wi.thout bias by a contemporary of the men and the events recorded. The reader should be forewarned that this narrator has never been classed as neutral' on any important is sue relating to men or cl r-cumatance s , In the modest chronicle offered in the following. pages. the concern of the writer is directed toward men and worneri rather than toward events or sta.ti ati.c s rela't,ing to the deposits of coal in Walker County and the economic mining thereof. The choice of emphasis is not to be taken as a denial of the importance of coal in the area during the past half century' or of the value that will come from the deposits during the riext fifty years. What has been accomplished in coal mining is set out in a general way in the narrative, and what the future will likely hold i~ for e'ca s t, These factors are vital, and there is no intention to disparage them. ' During his lifetime this chronicler has been affected, animated, and ins pi r ed mo s t by men and women of Walker County whose lives he has, touch-. ed daily during half a century - - men and women ~ho ha've struggled with unflinching determination . to maintain those principles of life that are all~prevading and.everlasting and who made that struggle under condittons that at times seemed insurmountable. '. So. if this writer be s tow s Hls=hornag e. on these. men and women.to the extent that this history may - 31 - be regarded as overly personal, he trusts that he will be forgiven. The individuals mentioned, some of whom may have no claim to gr ea.tnes s as greatness is commonly regarded, serve only to point out the character of the thousands of people he has met during his years in Walker County. Those people were builders, and they built well, in such manner and by such methods that we today might indeed emulate. I cannot conclude this foreword without expressing a deep sense 'of homage. and devotion to Rose M. Fie s , my wife. Of the many debts I owe. to her, I choose to a ckrrowledg e here a debt particularly pertinent to this narrative: she gave me, and perhaps others, some: simple' lessons in human relationship; for with the men, and particularly with the women, who lived in the hills of Walker County she maintained the most natural and,spontaneous relations and, above all, held those neighbors in great affection, which "age cannot wither nor custorn stale ", Milton H. Fies Birmingham, Alabama May 1960 - 32 - THE MAN WITH A LIGHT ON HIS CAP Hedge -row and wayside said the ye a.r was old, With amethyst fruit and aster. Love 1 s lamp before me J I had corrie , stranger, to this still land, A sanctuary from the peopled ways Of city. and old sorrow's chastening. Here, brave adventure Peered from j et+ r ibbed hills, Old, old adventure, and youth's spangled dream To make more tol er abl e The simple world .Of men who wrested tr e a sur e From these hills! * More than forty-seven years ago, on September and I moved into the old Phillips home in Walker County, in the area that we later named Sipsey. ** 1\t that time the crossroad just west of the Phillips farm wa s js'hown on the United States Geological Survey topographic map as Janesville; the location is about ten miles .southea.s t of Jasper. 12, 1912, mywlfe When we began our journey to our new hoine, we left Birmingham at 7:00 a. m , on the Frisco accommodation train commonly referred to as "The Dude , 11 We arrived at Dora bout 8:45 and found Nath Grace waiting for us with a surrey"with a fringe on top" ~ drawn by two good horses. On our drive , to the- Phillips home we passed through areas that =F'r om Sipsey Portraits by Rose M. F'i e s , and Other Poems$ **1 was told that "Sipse'y" is a Choctaw Indian word, meaning poplar tree. Many pop'la.r trees grew along the banks of the Sipsey River. - 33 - •• later became Summit, Hull Mine, and Dilworth. We crossed the river at Philli.ps' Ferry, just below the confluence of the Sipsey and Mulberry Forks. I had been in and through this territory many times before with Henry T. De Bar del eben, with whom my father, my brothers, and I became associated. Mr. DeBardeleben and I prospected the coal property along the outcrop. of the Black Creek Searn all the way from 'I'ornm.ie Dr-ummond-s land in the Piney Woods, seven or eight rni.Ies above or north of Phillips' Ferry, all the way down to a point on the river .opposite the old Sloss Cornparry ste arn pUlllp. which furnished water for the Ivy Mine operated by that company, Throughout that distance there were test pits not over one-half rnfl e apart, all of which were s arnpled and analyzed. Then. before rne mbe r s of llly farn il y and I bought Into Mr. DeBardeleben's cornparry (then known as the Maryland Coal and Coke Company}, several dialllond drill holes were, at our request. put .down to the coal within the property. We then purchased one-half interest in the cornparry and agreed to finance it. The only other stockholder in the company other than Mr. DeBardeleben was Mr. Newton Hanson, an uncle of a former owner of the Birmingham. News. The c orrrparry owned s orne 12,000 acres of rrri.ner aI rights. plus a substantial portion of the surface ove r l-y ing the rni.ner al., In late spring, several rnonth s before we 1ll0V:' . ed to the old Phillips h orne , Rose went to Sipsey - 'with llle to inspect the old fa.rmhous e and de te r rrrine what should be done to rehabilitate it for our horne ;: We spent the night at J'irn Burton's house, which was a good one on a good farrn about two miles east of the Phillips place. A :most unusual custo:m was broken on the ni.ght we had supper at the Burton horne; Rose ate at the - 34 - table with the men! I have been told that never before in the history of the rural areas of Walker County had a woman ever been pe r mttted to eat with men. At the supper hour, perfectly unmindful of the prevailing custom of gentlemen first, Rose came to the table and was s er ve d along with her host, but her hostess and the young daughters waited and had their suppers later. This practice, certainly a relic of a dark andIong voutmode d day, was generally accepted, especially in the eastern part of the county. In early, days this custom was observed throughout the South. It is in keeping with this custom, 1 later discovered when I went to-the Kentucky Derby, that the swanky Pendennis Club in Louisville provides a side doo.r for ladies to. enter the club." No woman, even when escorted by men, is permitted to enter the' club through its front door. When I visited the Pendennis Club with Lnfl.uerrti.a.Imen and lovely women, L was amazed to find out that this r el i.c of authority persisted. The conclusion may well be drawn that when women were accorded the right to vote through the 21 s t Amendment to our Cons ti.tuti on , the feminine inferiority complex, which resulted from the practice I have reported, was gradually and fittingly cured. _ .Sh-ortly thereafter, I was Vice President of the Maryland Coal and Coke Company (later named the DeBardeleben Coal Co, , Inc , ) and had charge "of the' construction of the mine and the railroad .and, after they were completed, operated the prop-:e r ti e s , At this time the most difficult task I had in dealing with people was to determine whether Methodists or Baptists should use the one church built by our c ornparry-In the com,munity arid to decide on what Sunday each would have it. In those days Methodists and Ba.p'tists were always at one - 35 - •• ... - 1""""""------------------------------- another's throats, and I had to act as referee, umpire, field judge, and head lineman. Here was a most unusual and delicate situation for any individual, particularly for one of my religious persuasion. I finally devised a plan which worked amiCably-quite amicably until month rolled around with five Sundays. To decide who would occupy the house of the Lord on that fifth Sunday, a Solomon with all his. sense or judicial discretion was needed. a With this denominational dilemma, which affected Sunday School as well.as formal worship, Rose fortunately supplied the .help I needed. Wisely she de te r m ine d that it was senseless for the children of the par-ents of one Christian denomina.tion to be denied knowledge of the Bible on one Sunday while' the children of anothe r denomination were in the Sunday School learning. from this s arne Bible. For the chil.dr en of all Christian de norni.« nations, she organized a Uni.on'Surida.ySchool, which was. I suspect, the first of its kind in all the history of Walker County. I doubt that there-has been another since. I often thought th en , and Iofteri think now ,' about the differences between men in their approach to the' Creator of the Urriver s e , When I walked underground thr.ough the mines and considered the origin of the coal bed surrounding me, I began to reason about. creeds. Geologists estimate that the coal beds in Walker County were deposited not less than two hundred and fifty million years ago. I felt reasonably sure then, and 1: arn more strongly convinced today, that that Force or Power or Creator gave little heed to what would come to be recognized as marrs incongruity in his approach to God: Soon, though, I found out that this subject was da.nger ous for discussion, and I never raised it, But the Union - 36 - • Sunday School flourished; indeed, with box suppers, fish frys, raffles, and the help of the PTA, it gained gr eat momentum as the years rolled by. Late r in my life when I came to know the fine poetry of William Alexander Percy, I discovered that he too was ";'ware of this 'same age -old problem of the fierceness men show in their stand on religion. Percy wr ote z . "How blistered is the earth with outpoured blood' Which on the ground has but a human lookNot Chr is ti anv Jewish, qr Mohammedan! They slaughter each. the other in the name Of Allah, Chz-ls t, Jehovah, that one god Who needs' a name to be distinguishable • o e c The Christian sj.ns if rne at ' Is eat on F'r tdayj the Jew 'if any day He eats of pork; the Prop'h~t's follower If anything ~n any day he eats With Jew or Christian at his friendly table. Fools, fools, and serio~s fools who die For imbecilities diverse but equal! II ." One of our first interests at Sipsey was the erection of a school building. The school bui.ldirig that was in use when we first went to Sipsey was a rain'shackled, one -room structure, quite small, and not even painted red. It was ahumHiating type < of str-uc tur-e , providing one teacher, benche sand crude desks, and dim light from kerosene lamps on dark days. A new school building became our . first objective. And in this sphere, Rose and the women of the community, including the wives of our neighboring fa.rme r friends, rendered unceas ing and Indi s pens abl e service. When the school was built, outfitted and occupied, it immediately - 37 .:' became area. .. a source of pride to all the people of the Our company supplemented the salaries paid the teachers by the county and extended the school year. As far as I know, this school was the one school in the county that had a nine months' term. The faculty consisted of a principal and a sufficient number of teachers to teach all 'the courses prescribed for an elementary school through the eighth grade, The classes were limited in the number of pupils assigned to each 'class, and where necessary the teaching staff was increased. Professor Amos Waldrop was one of the effective principals of that school for many years. I;Ie and his splendid wife, whom Professor Waldrop met as a teacher the r e , raised the standards of that school toa position of eminence among the schools of the county. Miss Ila Dean Gr iffi.n of .Jasper was one of the outstanding young women who gave so freely of their talents and training to the courses of study in, the institution. Mrs.' Gilbert, who-now has charge of the Red Cross activities in Walker County, is the Ila Dean Griffin of those days so very long ago. Time has augmented her capacities and her cha'r m, Another splendid young woman who became a m ernbe r of the teaching staff at the Sipsey school was Miss Vista Redfern, who carne from Parrish, where her father ran a locomotive for the Southern Railway. She was attractive and capable. Miss Redfern married Mr , To Go Fortenberry, who came to Sipsey from Irondale as a raw, country boy. He later became chief clerk at th e mining operation and was promoted into the sales department of the company, in which he was successful and contributed much toward the company+s sales policies and achievements 0 - 38 - We had playgrounds for the children; and each Friday afternoon during the summe r when our school-age niece came as a visitor to Sipsey for her vacation, the young boys and girls from the school enjoied a story-telling hour with refreshments on the lawn at our horne , which we named . "Pineywood. ~1 Almost simultaneously the Negro school was completed-the largest of its kind in the county with the exception of the' Cor ona Industrial School. Mr. Musgrove had the Corona School built at Patton Junction for the group of'Negroes he had brought in.from Mississippi to mine ~oal for his company, which was named the Corona Coal and Iron Company. The faculty for the Negro school at Sipsey was strengthened by the coming to our community of a very fine teacher, R. W. Taylor, who will be referred to again in this narrative., The schools iIi that community did more to strengthen community pride and accomplishment than did any other impulse or fa cto r, Many children walked three or four miles or came in buggies or on mules. for buses were unheard" of then. In discipline and In s tr-uc'ti.on there was more austerity, which I think almost a.ll schools of the present have' lost to their detriment, and none of the so-called "services, II which some of our -h ighe r institutions. and even some secondary schools, boast of providing. In those days teachers meant business and the pupils recognized it, As th e school was 'being erected, the company store was in course of construction. For our first store, we used an ~ld tool house near the Phillips home, 'where I was living; later we transferred the merchandise to a new dwelling as soon as one was cornpl ete d; When completed, the large store was' - 39 - •• We,had playgrounds for the children; and each Friday afternoon during the summe r when our school-age niece came as a visitor to Sipsey for her vacation, the young boys and girls from the school enjoyed a story-telling hour with refreshments on the lawn at our home) which we named , "Pineywood. ~1 Almost simultaneously the Negro school was completed-the largest of its kind in the county with the exception of the Corona Industrial School. Mr. Musgrove had the Corona School built at Patton Junction for the group of'Negroes he had brought in.from Mississippi to mine coal for his company, which was named the Corona Coal and Iron Company. The facUlty for the Negro school at Sipsey was strengthened by the coming to our community of a very Hrie teacher, R. W. Taylor, who will be referred to again in this narrative., The schools in that community did more to strengthen community pride and accomplishment than did any other impulse or factor! Many children walked three or four miles or came in buggies or on mules. for buses were unheard' of then. In discipline and 'instruction there was more austerity, which I think almost all schools of the present have' lost to their detriment, and none of the so-called "services, " which some of our -hi.ghe r institutions, arid even s?me secondary schools, boast of pr o-vid « ing. In those days teachers meant business and the pupils recognized it, As the school was 'being erected, the company store was in course of construction. For our first . store, we used an <?ldtool house near the Phillips home, where I was living; later we transferred the merchandise to a new dwelling as soon as one was completed. When completed, the large store was' - 39 - a great boon to the people in the immediate vicinity" who previously had been compelled to travel to Empire or Dora. Cordova or J'a sper ,for supplies. The company's policy in the operation of the store was unselfish: the store's profit was limited to not more than 100/0,and since the overhead was negligible. the prices of all commodities were reasonable and satisfactory to our people. The installation of an Ice machine added much to the comfort and convenience of the people. So did the company dairy, which was established about 1917 with thirty cows, service being restricted to our own employees. Strangely, the local farmers had been una.ble, to furnish milk to the community during World War 1. The community nurse, the first in the county, strongly r-ecornrnende d that we provide a dairy. and Rose supported her. The dairy, although operating at a loss, was maintained for , several years, unti,l milk became available through truck delivery. The first village physician employed at Sipsey was Dr. E. L. McCalip. Asid~ from his great competence in medicine, he was the most presevering, long-suffering doctor I have ever known .. In those days all employees paid a monthly stipend, which in its entirety was paid to the doctor. It rna tte r-ed+not the nature of his complaint, when an employee wished to have the doctor pay a pr-ofes s iori-. al call, the employee phoned him, and the notion usually hit the employee during the dead of night. But, Dr. McCalip was uncomplaining and, in a real sense, was one of the most popular men in the entire area. He had a splendid wife, born in Cullman, and an attractive daughter. Dr. McCalip resigned in the twenties and moved to Texas. - 40 - Proudly I look back on what we provided for our e:mployees: the liberal sales policy at the co:mpany store, a :medical clinic -..yitha nurse, a helpful stand for good schools, play grounds, .a dairy. and other advantages. One further progressive :measure, although urged, was never :made available, and that was e:mployee insurance and pensions. The failure to adopt these, along with the great decline in the coal business i:m:mediately after 1929. and other funda'merrta.l causes, such as political expediency. paved the way for co:mplete unionization of the mtne.wor ker s in the county. More is to be said about this phase of the county's . history. , The store manager in the early days was Mr. A. J. McDanal. He ca:me to us fro:m Irondale and was one of the fore:most :men in the area. He was instensely and sensibly religious and beca:me one of the rrios t Infl uent.ia'l Baptist lay:men in Alabarna , We found hi:m gentle and uncomplaining, quiet but persevering. and unfailing in his support of every worthwhile effort. He and Mrs. McDanal and their fa:mily were a:mong the :mo'st highly respected people of the co:m:munity. One of his sons, Hayden McDanal, is presently in charge of social co:m:munity work in Jefferson County. A. J. "Junior, will be re:me:mbered as a great halfback at the University of Alaba:ma, whe r-e he was graduated. . .' The construction work for the develop:ment of the Sipsey Mine began in late Septe:mber 1912. The first coal was shipped. on August 13, 1913. The :mine operation required the building of about seven rn il e s of railroad fro:m the E:mpire Branch of the Frisco at E:mpire to Sipsey. For the railroad we had to build a bridge, which, crossing the river below the old Phillips Ferry, still serves the corrr-. :munity and the barge-loading station at Coyle. The - 41 - •• village at Sipsey consisted of a large commissary, school buildings. a church, .and two hundred houses erected with lumber sawed from the ·property. The saw mill operations required for these facilities were of considerable size and i:r,nportance. Oxen with "durgens II l ogg ed the mills, and large 1500-lb. mules hitched to heavy wagons hauled the material for the housing and the h~avy trestle timbers for the railroad. The slabs from the big logs for the railroad timbers were of.Long-Ie af pine dried in the sun and finished by our pl.aner s for the dressed lumber used for the interior of the houses. There was an. extensive belt of long-leaf pine in the Piney Woods about seven'miles north of Sipsey near a place marked Powe Il.vil.Ie on the old maps. Jim Bird Powell, who later became circuit solicitor, was reared in this locality. This a r.ea now contains the Lewis M•. Smith Darn built by the Alabama Power Cornparry on the upper reaches of Sipsey River. I.n the course of the timber operations I was associated with man ;by the name of Copeland, who erected the two hundred houses. He was an .honorable gentlemen. A Mr. Hannon"operated several saw rrriLLs , and Uncle Tommie Drummond cut all the heavy t irnbe r for the railroad. Uncle Tommie was one of the quaintest men in the area and one o'f the highest in character, dependabtl ity, and resourcefulness. a Later. a doctor I s clinic and a miner I s bath house were constructed. This village, when first completed in 1913. was one of the show places of the State as a mine village •. Being located on flat farm land and laid out in streets and avenues, it was unlike most mining towns, whose dwellings usually are erected on a hillside, along a hollow, , in close proximity to the mine opening. - 42 - -------------------------------- The construction work at the mine property included the erection of a second bridge across Sipsey River (the mine drifts were on both sides of the stream) for the transportation of coal with electric locomotives; the driving in of ten drifts; the construction of a stearn generating station with boilers; the building of a washing plant with pi.cking belts, which was the first in Walker County; and the ins tall ati on of electric 'undercutting .ma.chines. These machines" .too~ were the first of their kind in the county. Until that time (1913) all under -cutting machines in, the county had been air punchers, which were in use at Empire, Carbon Hill. Coal Valley, Patton, and a few other ope r a « tions. Ninety days after the mine began to produce coal. the dai.Iy tonnage reached 1500 tons in one shift of ten hours in a seam of high quality coal averaging 28" to 3011 in thickness. At the start, the labor rates for a ten-hour day were approximately as fo~ldws: all outside labor including tipple men, $1. 50 per day; track men, brattice men, etc •• $20 75 per day; electricians, $3.00 per day; ~achihe men, $3.00 per day; motormen, $2.75 per day; trip riders' and helpers underground, $2.50 per day. The cost of living was on a comparable low basis: house rent, $6.00 per month for a four-rodm house; white meat, 5~ peJO'.poundt lard, 5¢ per poufld; flour, 75~ per 24lb. sack; and other cornrnodi.tte s at comparable prices. Every family had a garden; some families kept a cow; and the adjoining woodlands were replete with squirrels, rabbits, quail, and dove. The river provided fish and an occasional duck. The residents of the area were of the most friendly and kindly type. Those good neighbors welcomed the industrial development of that section. There were Jim Burton and his family; - 43 - • Uncle Billy Fields and his boys; Lennox and Felix Fields; TOITl. Dan and Barlow Dr-umrnond (the latter two were Republicans and sturdy rnen}; John Dan Meyers, a rnari of high principle and keen i.ntel.ligence, who lived in the forks of the rivers; old rnan Buzbee and IPUITlITly"Fields, who lived in the bend of the river to the south; and Bruton Phillips, oneof the rno s t lovable rn.eriI ever knew and the ITl08t patient. In later years Brother Huggins', a well known rrrirris ter recognized throughout all Walker County, threw his lot in with u,s and became a powerful influence for good in our cornrnuni ty, My wife and I admired and loved him for his breadth of understanding and for his heart, which embraced all men. And there were others too,numero~s mention here-all worthy men and WOITlen. Never in all the years of our life at Sipsey was there one incriminating word spoken against a single WOITlanwho was native to that part of the county. » to At Blackwater Creek, five rni.le s from Sipsey, lived a colony of excellent Negroes. Men fr om this cornrnuni ty walked to their jobs in. the morning and back home in the evening. Among th ern was a YOUD,g Negro lad eighteen years old, Oliver Fields, who sought the job and was employed as house boy'Ln my b.orne at Sipsey in Septernbe r 1912. He has been' in my home continuously since that time, with the exception of about seven years during World War II, when he worked for the Southern Railway. A rno r.e loyal, patient, kindly rnan never lived or one more trus tworthy. Among the residents of this Negro colony. some of whom carn e f r orri the Stouts Mountain area in Cullman County, were Joe Roberts, Sidney, Monroe and Columbus Davis, Amos Gibbs. Squire Hull, and Wiley F'i el ds , the brother of my house servant. " These were all unusual rne n , law-abiding, industri- - 44 - • Among the Negro employees, ous, understanding. of the company" there were two remarkable men. One was Uncle Charlie Nettles, who had been a "ho s tl er II at Mulga for me when I ~as General Superintendent of Mines for .the old Birmingham Coal and Iron Company, who s'e properties now be» long to the Woodward Iron. Company. ,Uncle Charlie could r erne mbe r that, while plowing a field in South Carolina as a boy. he s toppe'd to wat ch the Yankees come through the atate., He was a Negro of the old school-cou.rteous •. respectful, diligent, almost galla.nt, and always Ioyal , His prize .animals were Mrs. F'i e s' standard-bred saddle mare and a giant of a mule named ,IIJemes. ". The influence Uncle Charlie had 011 all arairrial s was startling and, to my mind, mar-ked his soul as great, even though 1 knew and recognized his other splendid qualities. He remained with me until his death, and he lies near the; Negro church at Sipsey •. The other remarkable ~an was Robert W. T'ayl or , .who was principal of the Negro school. Taylor had ser'ved as a Hnarrci.al secretary to Booker To Washington andIiadrtr avel ed throughout the country soliciting funds for Tuskegee Institute. This native of Alaba~~ was a graduate of Tu'sk egee and of Ha.r var-d , and a fine upstanding man •. Being' a splendid speaker, he was sent during World War I} .by' the committee in charge of War Bonds,' to speak to the Negroes in Walker and adjoining counties. Taylor exercised a fine influence throughout the county, particularly in the Sipsey community. In 1960, at the ripe age of eighty-six, Taylor passed away at the home of his daughter in Los Ang.efe s , Cal ifo rriia , I had kept in touch with him during all the ye ax s , and valued his friendship. Another fine Negro citizen, He first worked as a teamster, - 45 - was John Wfl.Ii.ams , then as a miner .-~~----~-- .------ underground, and finally; during the remainder of his active life, as a porter for the store at Sipsey. Every man, woman, and child in the village knew him, and he was especially devoted to the children, and they to him. He is spending his old age at Sipsey, where he has been fOTnearly fifty years. But on Christmas each year he finds time to corne to Birmingham and have dinner at my home. The opening of the mine brought good work for all these people, whose dai1y previous wage had been 75'; to $1. 00 per day when they could find work to do, which was difficult. At first, almost all the jobs were given to' these local citizens; but, as the work expanded,and the undergroun:d workings were extended, men from the entire eastern portion of Walker were brought to this new and progressive mining operation. Among those who chose to make Sipsey their horne were men whose service and sense of devotion were of the highest quality. I cannot :recall them all, and do not have space in which to describe them or even list them. But those who were' outstanding made an everlasting and forceful impression on me: One of the rare kind was C. P. ("Buddie") Phillips. Buddie, a native of Walker County, had operated a shaft-hoisting engine for me at Mulga Mine in Jefferson County. He first attracted "my attention because of two qualities ideal in any man who has to do with the operation of engines: he never lost his sense ofequilibriurn and was always cool and thoughtful. He followed me to Sipsey and there worked at various jobs during the construction period. Later, when Buddie developed asthma, I turned over all the concessions and the operation of all the amusement features to hizne he ran the pool room, managed the picture show, in an enclo s ed building in winter and in an air -riorn.e in summer, - 46 - « and assisted in the management of the baseball team. He was a prime factor in maintaining good employee relations, for he was kindly .and mildmannered, but possessed of an inner strength that made him a real man. He had had little or no educational opportunities in his life, but he was keen and practical. and had a heart that errcornpassed all humankind. L. V. Harvill. who came' from Blocton in Bibb County, became our first mini-ng engineer and served in that capacity 'for many years. Later he took over the engineering work for Walker County. He and his wife were excellent citizens of our community. He was a thorough and capable man. He is now retired and lives i'n Jasper. His daughter. Mrs. Ed Hamilton. who was reared in Sipse.y and received her elementary school education there. also resides in Jasper, with her family. Two young men with their :q.ewbrides came to Sipsey soon after the rrririe began to function. They were brothers -Charles and Guy Lagr-erme -who had previously been employed at Brilliant in Marion County •. Those two rugged, staunch, plain, and sparse -spoken men were my hunting companions through the years. In the woods they were most at home, being marvelous marksmen, perceptive and k.een, of sight. Guy+s wife was often disgruntled," to put it mildly, at the attentions he showed his hunting dogs, which he trained and looked after with great care. Bob Payne came to us about 1915. He began as a foreman and later became th e superintendent. Bob was a Mississippian and an excellent man with those who worked with him. The NRA and Wagner Act so demoralized him because of one of his convi ct iorrs that he finally gave up his work as superintendent - 47 - ,..--------------------_ .. _-_._--- - --- '.r===========,.",..",..,"""""""'------ and became a night watchman at Coal Valley, a mine which later came 'under our charge. Bob believed firmly that unionl am as practiced generally in the South would sooner or later lead to the integration of the races. Bob was born in Mississippi. He was a fine friend, possessed of inexhaustible energy and a sense of duty the like of which I have not known in any other man. Toward the end of World War I, Bob Payne brought a young man to me for a job. He was Alf Julian. just out of the Army, having served as sergeant in the Alabama regiment that was a part of the famous Rainbow Divlsion. AIf saw it all, had fought with his regiment at Chateau-Thierry, and had carried on until Armistice -Day in 1917. But he never would discuss his war experiences with me,' even though he always called me "Captain. r; He married in Sipsey, raised a fine family, and finally passed away in the hills that he loved. One of hi s sons is now an engineer with the Alabama Power Company. an excellent young man, capable and dependable; During 1913, a boy just ~ut of high school became the first weighman at the tipple-J. R. McGowin. He was alert, intelligent. eager. and good. He "later became assistant timekeeper at Sipsey and then chief clerk at Empire after we purchased that mine •. He mar-ried a Sipsey girl of rare beauty-Miss Alma Ennis. They had a fine family. One of their boys, Dick McGowin, became an All-American halfback at Aubur-n; he is now the backfield coach at his Alma Mater. When he was no more than fifteen years old, I once watched him punt a football fifty yards. Frank Kelley and his family moved to .Sipsey during its early days. He was the best mine track man I have ever known in my half century in the mines. He was a hard worker. genial always and good humored. - 48 - •• He too had a splendid family. One of his boys, Jim, became an exceptional motorman on one of the electric locomotives when still in his teens. Jim rose to be an excellent mine foreman. One' of Frank Kelley's grandsons is an assistant mine foreman at Gorgas and performs his job with sk i ll , Among the other men who were my close friends were John Hill, whose son is Vice President of the Crandall Engineering Company -of Birmingham; and Jodie Smith, whose wife was a,lovely person and a valued friend of my wife. Jodie's son Paul is now an affluent resident of Birmingham, President of the Smith Coal Sales Company, and has a beautiful home in Mountain Brook. Pa.ul is educa.tion. was completed when he finished Si'psey High School , He had wonderful forebears, and he has always been persevering and honorable. . S. S. Shor e s became our Local peace officer. He had been a chief de'puty she r iffvin Jasper under John Gray. He too was a high type of map., always frank, emphatic, and upstanding. He had a fine family. One of his boys. 'J. L.. Shores, was first employed as a rodman in the mine erig ine er s .eor pa, He is now Head of the Safety Department for the Alabama Power Company. D~ring the earlier years at Sipsey, a man and his wife from Holland came into our community. They were Mr. and Mrs. Fritz Kempgens. Where or how th~y made a landing at Sipsey I never knew, but Kempge'ns was an excellent coa.l miner, having worked in the mines on the continent, either in Germany or Belgium. His wife. Katrina, was a most wonderful and splendid per son. Dur ing the war she brought her skill in knitting into prominence by teaching many of the women of the community. She became a close friend of Rose's and on many occasions would come - - 49 - •• to our house and talk over old times in the old country. The Kempgens reared a family in Sipsey. Some of the children live here· in Bi r m ingharn and others in Florida. Both the man and the woman were kindly people, but Mrs. Kempgen, particularIy , was a very unusual person. As the operation progressed, it was encumbent on me to meet and as sociate with people in other sections of the county, but more importantly in Jasper. John H. Bankhead, then "Junior 11, was our Walker County attorney. Be be carne one of my closest friends; my affection for him was deep, and no individual 'has missed him more than 1. He felt toward me, as he once told Ro s e ; as he did toward a brother, and I returned this feeling. We inherited our friendship, so to s pe ak, When John's father, in the 1890's.as I recall, decided to run for Congress, he sought help of my father, who operated a large livestock business i~ Birmingham; Mr. Bankhead, who was not then. as affluent as he later came to be, told my father 'Ofhis intentions to run. Then he said he needed a horse, a set of harness, and a buggy for his campaign. He agreed to pay for these necessities if elected and had it understood' that, if he failed, my father was to take back the b.ors e , harness, and buggy and accept as full payment whatever salvage 'value was in them. My fathe r accepted Mr. Bankhead's proposition. When Mr. Bankhead was elected, he paid my father for the outfit and, besides, sent my father a gold split-second watch, which today is an heirloom in our family. So, John, Jr., and I had common grounds for mutual faith and understanding, which never wavered during the years. In late 1933, John appointed - 50 - I> me to the PWA for Alabama. of which 1 was made chairman. I am fearful. though, that my activities in that post were not as tactful as he had wished, though he never complained. I was not a New Deal adherent, and 1 sometimes think that, on his account. I should not have become entangled in the policies of the Public Works Administration. Yet, he never criticized me. There was a gentleness in John Bankhead not appreciated by many of his as soc iate s , That gentle •.. ness, along with his capability and legal wisdom, made him outstanding as our -Uni te d States Senator; more than that. those qual.ijf e s made him a great gentleman. When I first moved to Walker County, William B, Bankhead was' $ till a young man, although he had already been solicitor for the circuit, and a member of the State House of Representatives and was recognized for his extraordinary attai nrnent as an or a « to r , Furthermore. ~e was companionable. capable, and earnest. His first electio~ to Congress in the Seventh District of the State carne after .orie of the most intense political struggles that the district had ever experienced. His opponent was Capt. Richmond P. Hobson. of Spanish-American War fame. Because Will Bankhead won that election by less than sixty votes, r was particularly proud of the box at Sipsey. which gave him ni.nety-se ight solid votes. Will Bankh ead s er ve'd continuously as Congressman until his death in 1940 and was Speaker of the House of Representatives when ,he passed away. He was a distinguished. Alabamian and won National recognition as statesman. a William Bankhead was the father of the famous Tallulah Bankhead and her sister, Eugenia Bankhead. These two daughters of Bankhead were schoolmates of Miss Ila Dean Griffin, to whom reference has been made herein. - 51 - • 44 The friendship between the Bankhead family ,and my family, which began ill- the 1880's, meant much to the DeBardeleben Coal Company in the early days. The Bankhead family had long been among- the most prominent and constructive in our State, and their contribution to Alabama ts progress cannot be rne a sur ed, John, Jr. and I, on aHahing trip as I recall, planned the raising of Lock 17 an additional twelve feet, which, when completed, made the Mulberry Fork navigable to the barge -loading station at Coyle immediately below the junc ti orr.of Sipsey and Mulberry Rivers. We planned a: dam at Sanders Ferry which woul.d.have rna.de the two rivers navigable some eight or ten :miles above the present Coyle barge-loading station. This plan was ,somewhat too ambitious for the time. Alabama's influence in National affairs reached its great height when Will Bankhe ad became Speaker of the 'House at the same time that John, Junior" was a s'tr ong , respected and powerful member of the Senate of the United'States. John was without doubt the one, Senator who did most to obtain farm legislation and thus to aid all the farmers in the , Nation. Cotton was' King in his thinking and planning.' . Will Bankhead was an exceedingly popular man in his journey through life from Lamar, County to Washington because he was affable, generous, kind and responsive to the nobler impulses. When we bought the Phillips Farm, I became acquainted with Jake Phillips; and, although he out", traded me at the time, we became close friends. I still hold his friendship dear in my memory. He was one of the most unusual men I have ever known. His education was limited to the rural school near - 52 - the family horne; nevertheless, he had one of the keenest minds with which I ever carne in contact. He was capable, practical, unde r s tandi ng , and when he pledged his word, nothing ever changed him. He advised me in the early days' as to the policies of our company in its relationship with the people of the county, in land trades, and.indeed on whatever subject I chose to consult him about, and there were many. I frequently carne in ciose contact with Mr. Jack Cranford. then Pr e s ident of the First National Bank. He was a unique individual, sound in his approach to business affairs and ,generous of his time and talent in matters of publ i'c Concern. There was' Judge Sartain., aRepubl i.can who was judge of probate a wise, earnest, and r eas onabl.e man. Arthur Sartain, his son, was employed in Senator Bankhead IS office and later wen.t with. the Senator to Washington as his ch ief clerk. , Judge Curtiss was an exceptional rna.n, Norman Gunn , a lawyer, was the debonaire Beau Brummel of Ja spe r ; he, too, was a dependable marie There were the McCutcheons, the Conwells, the Bur-tons who were merchants, five of them all told, and all possessed of public spirit and pride. There was Ed Long. who late-r became probate judge, an excellent, affable rrian , and his brother. Pope Long, a Republican, who was s tur dy as an oak. And then there were Judge Sowell and Dr. J. Alex Moore, County Superintendent of Education. of whom r shall have more to relate. Tom Long, the brother of Pope and Ed, was a friendly, happy individual, possessed of fine understanding. He envisaged the tremendous possibilities of the Tennessee Valley as one of the great areas of the State years before the TVA was conceived. Tom's dream as to this rich area of the 'State contemplated its development by the business interests of our State , - 53 - •• and he dwelt upon the resources of the Tennessee River in Alabama on every occasion. Judge Acuff, who was for years the County Solicitor, was an upright, dete r rniried man of the old school. During the First World War he had some administrative connection with the National Fuel Administrator. He was always scrupulously conscientious and honorable in h.is dealings with the coal operators of the State; The Kilgores were in the Livestock businessJohn, the father, and his three boys , John, Brack, and Grady. My father and the"elder Kilgore had been friends for rnor e than. twenty years before I moved to Walker County, 'I'Iie boys and I became "buddies" and John. particularly, became my lasting friend. Charles Wiggins, a very ca-pable and clearheaded lawyer. who later became a circuit judge, was a vigorous. hale, and companionable young man at the ti~e. As the ,years have passed, he has retained all these excellent qualities. Whenever Judge Wiggins comes to mind I recall a young attorney who graduated from the University of Alabama in the early 30's, came to Jasper in the late 30 "s , and began his first work in that area in the office of Judge Wiggins. I refer to the general editor of these annals: the Congressman from the Seventh District of Alabama, Mr. Carl Elliott. Carl Elliott· has been a dedicated man in his service to Walker County. to his district, and to the State of Alabama. He served with the Infantry of the United States Army in World War II and then began his rapid rise to prominence as an attorney, a public servant, and a 'dis ti.nguiahe d and, effective member of the Congress of the United - 54 - Sta.tes , He married a Jasper girl-the granddaughter of one of the most prominent merchants in that area, . who was my close friend during my early years in the courrty, Mrs. Elliott's grandfather· was Mr , Sylvanus Hamilton. His wholesale grocery business, the Hamilton Grocery Company, wa s. one of the largest and most valuable in West Alabama, Mr , Hamilton was a good friend and a sterling man. There were many more .rnen , too many to list here. who were substantial citizens, eager always to advance the progress of th~ county and its pe opl e, They were always kind •. sympathetic. and understandirig, I suppose that ~, like rno s t individuals growing older. am disposed to compare the present with the past, particularly as to customs and people, often to the disadvantage of the pr es errt, ·Even so, I doubt that, in all the history of Walker Comity or of any other county in our State, there ever lived a finer group of citizens than lived in Jasper, Alabama, and its environs during the period from 1910 to 1930. In those days the Republican party was strong in Wafke r , The probate judge, one or'two members of the county commission, one of the circuit judges, and various less important county officers were. Republicans. Here was an excellent situation, promoting competition, constructive criticism, and .friendly rivalry. Unfortunately, the situation deteriorated when the New Deal carne into being with all its largess. Even Winston County men became Democratic. It is a s tr ang e truth that men will sacrifice conviction for expediency. Too few recognize values other than money values. In "The World Is Too Much with Us" Wordsworth was criticizing men of expediency, whose chief end is material gain alone and who are not mov-ed by Nature or great events. To them Wordsworth addresses this strong plea for a change of direction: - 55 - ,---------------- 11 ••• I'd rather be ,A Pagan suckled in a creed outworn, So might I standing on this pleasant Le a., Have glimpses that would make me less forlorn; Have sight of Proteus rising from the sea; Or hear old Triton blow his wreathed horn. 11 During the early years of. World War I, or just prior to those years, both Democrats and Republicans in the county decided that education in the area should be removed from politics and kept bipartisan. Accordingly, two Republicans and two Dernocrats were norninated and then el ecned to constitute the Walker County Boar-d of Education •. Dr. Giles Jones of Arnerica Junction and Pope Long were the Republican mernbers, and Mr. "Breck'! Musgrove and I were the Democrats. Mr. Musgrove served as Chairrnan for four ye a.rs , and at his 'death I was elected to the post. Altogether I served ten years on the Board. six years as Chair-rna n, Dr. J. Alex Moore was Superintendent of Education and a great educator. I doubt that in all the years since his tenure have we had a Superintendent of Education who was his equal. Highly trained as an educator, he was erudite. honorable to the highest degree and deeply conscientious. During his regime. the new high school was built in Jasper, one in Parrish, Car-dova , Dora, Curry and Oakman, An unusual incident occurred during the building of 'one or probably two of these high schools at - either Parish or Cordova or both. When the funds available to the board had been exhausted for the year in which the incident occurred. the rnernbers of the board. as individuals, signed a note to carry on the building prograrn until recurrent funds becarne available. - 56 - My colleagues on that board were profoundly concerned in the cause of education in the county and were completely unselfish and devot.ed in their duties. No dissention, no bickering "developed in the Walker County Boa r d, The incident I have just related served a good purpose, riot only in Walker County but throughout northwest Alabama. Later some individuals with ulterior purposes had a bill introduced in the legislature providing for the election of the superintendent by the people. Dr. Moore held the corrvicti.on that any individual who would serve as the head of. the Department of Education in the county should not be fettered by pol ici.ta.l considerations but should be free from pressureo Accordingly. lie resigned as County Superintendent of Education, and the J?eople of the area lost the s er vi ce s of one of the ablest Illen who ever held public office in the State; Circuit Judge J: Do Sowell was a man who had the same elevated moral convi crion, Back in these days, one circuit 'Judge, J. L. Sowell, was a Dem.ocrat; the other, Judge J. J. Cur ric e , was a "Repub-lican. For a period there was no pOlitical partianship in the election of the two circuit judges. \Winston County was in the circuit and in those days was very strongly Republ.i can , The two political parties shared certain "public offices according to agreement, just as the'y shared the representation on the County Boa:rd of Education and for the same good reason. But the time came when rivalry between the two parties supplanted the harmony and compromise of past years, and several Democratic candidates offered for these two judge shi ps , Judge Sowell held the high principle that a judge, who dispensed -jus ti ce , should not solicit votes; and for that reason alone, in my judgment, he was defeated for re -election. - 57 - •• My colleagues on that board were profoundly concerned in the cause of education in the county and were completely unselfish and deyoted in their duties. No dissention, no bickering de vel oped in the Walker County Board. The incident I have just related served a good purpose, not only in Walker County but throughout northwest Alabama. Later some individuals with ulterior purposes had a bill introduced in the legislature providing for the election of the supe r Irrteride nt by the people. Dr. Moore held the conviction that any individual who would serve as the head of the Department of Education in the county should not be fettered by pol ici.tal considerations but should be free from pressure. Accordingly. lie resigned as County Superintendent of Education, and the people of the area lost the s er vi ce s of one of ~he ablest rrie n who ever held public office in the State; Circuit Judge J. D. Sowell was a man who had the same elevated moral conviction. Back in those days, one circuit Judge, J. L. Sowell. was a Democrat; the other, Judge J. J. Cur ti ce , was a 'Republican. For a period there was no pOlitical partianship in the election of the two circuit judges. \Winston County was in the circuit and in those days was very strongly Republican. The two political parties shared certain 'public offices according to agreement, just as they shared the representation on the County Board of Education and for the same good reason. But the time came when rivalry between the two parties supplanted the harmony and compromise of' past years, and several Democratic candidates offered for these two judgeships. Judge Sowell held the high principle that a judge, who dispensed justice, should not solicit votes; and for that reason alone, in my judgment, he was defeated for re -election. - 57 - ,--------~---------------- ,.. These incidents were unusual, and the results were deplorable. Two good men, Superintendent , Moore and Judge Sowell, terminated fhe i r superb publ ic service and retired to private life. These events in the lives of these two good men made a forceful impression upon many thinking people of the county, men and women. The truth of Sowell's judgment, . as expressed in his conviction that any official whose duties required i.rnpar-tlal decisions should not place himself under obligation to any individual, is abaol.ute.ly intrinsic for the preservation of a government for a free people. Many times in life 'men instinctively perform outstanding service without knowing at the time the real significance of their action: "Daj.l.y, with, souls that cringe and plot; we Sinais climb and know it not. " I Walker County in.1913. when Sipsey Mine pr oduced its first coal, was a flourishing, growing county-largely because of Us easily accessible coal deposits. The coal in the Mary Lee Seam mined at Dora, Burnwell. Red Sta r , Cordova, Barney, and Ruby and on the North Alabama Railroad between Parrish (Railway Fuel Mine) antJaspe~ at Calumet and Bankhead and north of Jasper at Gamble made up the largest proportion of the county's production •. At that time, the coal from the Black Creek Seam was produced at Sip s ey and Empire. Later. Dilworth was. developed on the same seam, near Phillip's Ferry. The coal mined in the Nauvoo vicinity has been - determined by many geologists and mining engineers to be the Jefferson Seam; but, since some doubt existed, the coal was sold as Black Creek, although some of its physical and chemical characteristics are different from the 'coal then mined at Sipsey and Empire. Aside from these differences. the hor lz.on of the coal as to strata determined the seam to be - 58 - " Jefferson. Later on, Hope Mine between Carbon Hill and Nauvoo was opened in this same seam. At Carbon Hill, Townley, arid Hol.l.y Gr-ove , the Jagger Seam was mined. Later the mine at Howard was brought into operation. Mr , A. B. Aldridge, one of the finest and rarest souls in all our State, operated the mine on the American Seam at Aldridge for the Stith Coal Company" in which he was a large stockholder. Later he .sank a shaft, the deepest in the country. to th~ Mary Lee Seam. A. B. Aldridge was' a devoted friend. a South Alabamian from Catherine, near Selma, and a man of high purpose and s te adfas t loyalty. This same A. B. Aldridge purchased for the Alabama Power Company the large acreage ~n which the Gorgas Coal mine was Ia te r developed. He opened the first drifts in the vicinity of Gorgas for the Southeastern Fuel Company. as sister company of Alabama Power Company and one of the components of what was then Commonwealth and Southern Company. Ab Aldridge should' always be remembered as one of the progressive men who. contributed greatly to the growth of 'VaU.er County. The Galloway Coal Company. whose operations were located largely in Walker County at Carbon Hil1, was one of the most successful and efficiently operated mining companies in the State. James Nicol, Sr , , who still lives at Carbon Hil1, was the operation executive of this company. He spent his entire, professional life as a mining engineer with the Galloway organization. Always a quiet, capable, forceful man and a splendid public -spirited citizen, he was especially highly regarded by the company's employees. He served as a member of the County Board of Education for many years and was prominent in much of the needed welfare activities in the area. His son, James Nicol, Jr. is a vice president - 59 - in charge of the mining operations of the U. S. Pipe and Foundry Company. andis one of the progressive, effective mining engineers of Alabama. The early predecessor of the, Corona Coal Company was organized in 1873 by Vlrginia and Mississippi interests when the Georgia Pacific -Railway Company, now .the Southern-Railway, was extended through West Alabama-to the Mississippi State line. It was one of the first large coal producers in Alabama, with fine'quality reserves. It was acquired by the Adler family from Mr. L. B. Musgrove and then passed i:qto the DeBardeleben ownership. The- Corona Se arn was first among the better coals mined in Alabama, and the Cor ona mines at Coal Valley. Oakman, Patton, Mountain Valley, and Corona: did much to establish coal mining in this state. In 1923 DeBardeleben Coal Company. Inc •• purchased the Empire Goal Company and the Corona Coal Company and in this manner I became the \ operating head for all these properties: which consisted of some 75.000 acres of mineral Iands , With exc epti on of Sipsey. Empire, Nauvoovarid the -dornesti c sizes of: coal at Corona, Coal Valley. Townley and Hol Iy Grove, all the coal in Walker County was stearn coal, and the railroads-Frisco, Southern, 1. C. and Seaboard-were by far the largest consumers of the product of the co unty-ts mines. The coal production in Walker County during the year s mentioned was as' follows: - 60 - Year Tonnage 1913 1917 1922 1926 1930 1'935 1940 1945 1950 1955 1959 3.935,301 4,839,28'9 5,822,738 6,275,868 4,483,726 1,919,556 2,984,962 5.736,388 1, 618,346 '2;067,087 2,802,754 F'r orn the year when Sipsey Mine first began to produce coal until the year 1930, the production of coal i.n Walker County arncurrted to fr orn onequarter to one -third of the total tonnage' for the State. The industry flourished and was prosperou s , Most of the coal was hand-Loaded, but undercut with so-called short-wall rnachirie a, Electric Io cornot ive s carn e into use rno r e 'or less generally, although rnul e s were us ed as power for J:aulage in rrririe s around Dora and Cordova .and in the rrriries ( on the North Al abarna above Jasper. F'r om 1915 " \Jil1 1929, and particularly during We r Id- War I, coal operations we re at their zenith. Then carne the crash in the fall of 1929. The effect of the crash was the chief factor in reducing the output of Walker County+s coal rrii ne s , But the Depression was not was not the only factor. In 1931, natural gas. began its inroads as a cornpe ting fuel. In 1934 the U. S. Gove r nrrrerrt entered the business of producing and distributing subsidized electric power in Al abarna+s rna r ke t area; later. in the 40's, the outstanding and particular cu.s torne r of the county's m ine s , the railroads, began to change over f'r orn coal-burning engine s to diesel Lo cornot ive s , The large production of coal in 1945 was the result of - 61 - World War II and the export countries. of coal to European During the periods of greatest production, the county's coal mines produced twenty-six to thirty thousand tons of coal per day, which 'would fill thirteen hundred to fifteen hundred 50 -ton capacity .'railroad cars. Bergen (a railroad yard serving Sipsey, Empire, Parrish arid Hul.Lmines), Dor.a and Carbon Hill on the Frisco were centers of great vigor, as were Cardova, Barney, Burnwell, and the area north of Parrish on the Southern Railway and the Flat Creek area, where, the L & N served the mines. During the enti;e histo,ry of Walker County coal mining, the coal seams •. with few exceptions, were easily accessible th~ough drifts or shallow slopes or shafts. ' Most of the mines were drift mines, where the outcrops of the coal seams, being exposed, could be attacked most readily and at minimum cost. At the height of the industry's best years. from five thousand to six thou sarid miners were employed in the co unty tsvrrrine s , . C In 1917 the DeBardeleben Coal Company acquired the property at Payne's Bend, just across the bend from Gorgas, and developed a mine there, in the pratt Seam. At that time, during World War I, and for a period thereafter, the price of coal was fixed by a, Federal Administrator for the nation, who 'allowed an added price, for coal shipped to foreign countries, of $1. 35 per ton over and above the price pe r rni tte d in this country. All of the coal pr-oduce d at Payne's Bend by our company was transported down the river in barges to Mobile, thence across the Intercoastal. Canal to New Orleans. where most of it was shipped abroa.d for export use. During the war period and the r e afte r , the.export ' '. - 62 - • r.:::::=::::------------------------------------business was very profitable; but in 1922 or 1923, when foreign markets became depressed, the operat iori.of the mine was reduced; in 1944, it was completely abandoned. Even as late as 1924 there was little mechanical mining in thin seams - not even hand-loading on to conveyors. As a matter of history, the first mobile loading machine was introduced in Walker County by the DeBardeleben Coal Corporation in 1935. Two loading rna chine s were operated in a medium thickness seam at Hull Mine, beginning in 1935, and three small machi ne s were operated at Townley Mine, loeated be.tween Jasper and Carbon Hill. At this Townley Mine. in 1923, the first underground be It in Alabama was installed for the transportation of 'coal unde r-g r ound.. In this instance the belt was installed in the main slope for the delivery of coal to the surface. Had mining engineers known in 1924 as much about conveyor mining of coal as was known' just a few years later, it is doubtful vtha.t the mine at Payne 's Bend would have been closed down , The coal produced was from the Pratt Seam and was of excellent steaming quality, but difficult to mind by hand methods. Back in 1915. just two years after the development at Sipsey by DeBardeleben Coal Company; DeBa.r del e ben acquired W. G. Coyle and Cornpany •. of New Orleans, which had bunkering facilities and tugs in the harbors at Pensacola and New Orleans and agencies in Mobile. By the 20 IS, as much as 750,000 tons of coal was put on board ship in New Orleans for bunkering purposes alone. The .a.ctiv> Ltie s of Wo G. Coyle expanded during the years and became one of the greatest assets of the DeBardeleben Company. During these years the transportation - 63 - of coai ----~-~--~ /. on the Warrior River was initiated. in quantities DeBardel:eben Coal Company was granted a rail rate of 22¢ per ton by the Frisco Railr?ad from Sipsey to Cordova, Cordova being then just a few miles below the head of navigation. The company . built a tipple across the mouth of 'Cane Creek at Cordova, and coal from Sipsey was trans -:shipped from railroad cars to barges. As soon as the DeBardeleben people purchased the towboat Volcano and several wooden barges, the movement of coal from Walker County to the Gulf ports began in substantial quantities. During the war, the Government took over the towboats and the barges, of the wooden type and of about ~OO-ton capacity, and operated the transportation. facilities on the river. When under governrnent control .• the transportation systern was operated 'under the name of t~e Federal Barge Lines. This Government corporation operated on the Mississippi River and the Intercoastal Canal. The towboats and barges were suppl erriented by self-propelled barges, which had diesel engine s in the aft end; forward from the engi.ne and the crew quarters .was a large flat de ck , which carried from 600 to 700 ton svof coal. These se1£propelled barges were the for e r unne r's of the small towboat and the big barges which have since come to the Warrior River, the big barges having been first introduced by Mr. Thurston Crawford of Col!lmbus; Georgia. in transporting coal fro~ Maxine to Mobile in 1953. - . I vividly recall that, when we were building the tipple in Cordova for dumping railroad car s in the transhipment of coal, the older Senator Bankhead requested me to meet him at Cordova. When I reached Cordova he was standing on the bank of the river north of the 'Frisco Railroad. After r had introduced myself, he began to discourse on the merits of water transportation on the Warrior - - 64 - • Rivero He spoke prophetic words, abounding in. logic and vision. The elder Senator Bankhead was' a genial man, rugged in appearance. He reminded me much of my father. The Senator believed firmly that the Warrior River would corne to be a force in the development of our sta.te ; his vision exceeded our dreams. And while it is my belief that we have realized only the beginning of what he forecast, I venture to say. that the value of the river, to the State and to the coal fields of the State. particularly, win greatly exceed anything we picture even today. Senator Bankhead was one of the most constructive me~ ever sent to Washington from Al aba.rna r the father of rural free delivery, the promulgator of the principle of federal development of roads. and, above all. the statesman with progressive views c.oncerning the development of the rivers of this state. The elder senator was a loyal friend and a great one to every movement that sought to develop the resources and the people of Alabama. He served ou'r people faithfully and valiantly until his death on March 1, 1920. When in the early twe nti.es the DeBardeleben Coal Company acquired the Empire Coal Company and the Corona Coal Company. the name of the c:ompany was changed to DeBardeleben Coal Corporation, Inc. This corporation then operated at Sipsey, Empire, and Hull Mines in eastern Walker County and at Townley, Coal Valley, and Corona in the western part of the county. The operation _of these mines was placed under my supervision. The total employmen~ was approximately 2500 to 3000 miners-about one half of all- the men employed in the mines in Walker County. The largest production from these mine.s in anyone year was 1.250, 000 tons. One of the finer acquisitions - 65"- in this trade was a stripping operation at Corona, the first of any size in this state. It was located between Corona and West Cordova on Wolf Creek; tha te tr ip mine produced about 1500 tons of washed coal per day. -I doubt that any stripping operation in this state since that time-although better and larger equipment is now in use -has produced as much coal per month or per year as this mine produced between 1922 and 1928 or 19290 Although this expansion of _the company's ownership broadened my opportunities within Walker County, I returned to Birmingham in 1923, after eleven years of residence in-S'ips ey. However. for the next thirty years I made two to three trips a week to Walker Co.unty and sometimes more. , ' Although there had been great rivalry between Sipsey and Empire, in athletics as well as in business, the people of ~mpire received me cordially. and I made many fast friends there. I recall Dr. York, who was a native of northeast Walker County. a wonderful man, kind, sympathetic, and understanding. To the people of that community he was more than a physician. His forebears carne from the county line about where the Corner School is located and where Walker, Jefferson, and Blount Counties conve-r ge , His horne was' on York Mount.ain , which' was named for his family. At Empire also I met Clarence Brasfield, the local barber. We became friends and hunted birds together in the a r ea+to the north, up toward Arkadelphia. I renewed my acquaintance with E. S. Cunningham. whom I had met in 1904, when he was aupe r lnte nderit at High Level for the Sloss Company when that company operated a mine in the property now a part of the ' great Gorgas coal field. Charlie Moore, a nephew of Walter Moore, President of Empire Coal CQmpany, had char ge of the Empire Mine. When we - 66 - -----.-----.--------~------------------~ .----------------------------------- took over the property, Charlie stayed for a few months and then became associated with the Pratt Fuel Company, which his uncle 'organized and operated around Dora and Samoset for many years. I learned to esteem and regard him as a valued friend. When the three companies were merged, the coal mines were separated into, two divisions: the , Eastern Division was comprised of Sipsey. Empire and Hull, and Corona', ~oal Valley and Townley were in the Western Division. The company employed two capable, e.xpe r ierrce d mine executives as General Supe r interidenta- over each Division. William M. Lacey, a graduate mining engineer from Auburn. of broad experience in mine oper ati ons ,: was in charge of the Ea s te r n Divis io n, J. B. Thomas, formerly in charge of the coal mines 'for the Woodward Iron Company, was General' Superintendent over the Western Division. Lacey was the engineer type and very capable. John B•• Thomas had the practical,approaches, having s'er ve d in Alabama mines from haul age boss to General Superintendent. He was kindly and unde r s tandjrrg: and beyond any doubt the most able man I have ever known in his unusual ability to work with all his associates, . particularly the mine workers. This enlarged company was blessed with three capable mining engineers. Mr. R. C. Montgomery served at Empire for the mines located in the e as te r n pa r t of the county. Mr. R. M. Tate was located at Coal Valley, and Mr. E. J. Mc C're s s i.n, whose office was at Errrpi r e, "later be carrie Chief spector of mines for the St~te. .Th is fine. lovable young man lost his life in an explosion that occurred in a rni ne i:n Jefferson County-an appalling tragedy. Mr. Montgomery is presently engaged as a Senior Mining Engineer with the Ala - . In- - 67 - . bama Power Company; his broad experience during ~he earlier years makes him a very valuable employee. The operation to the west of Jasper brought me in almost daily contact with the many citizens in the western part of the county, where previously I had visited only on occasions. Townley was a . thriving community in the western part. Carter Manasco's people were promin-ent in that area as sound, upstanding citizens. For several terms Carter represented the Seve nth Congressional District' which includes Walker County. A fine family by the name of Bevill operated a merchandise business in the 'I'ownl e'y-ar ea ; their son represented the county in the recent session of the State Legislature. This young man, now a lawyer in Jasper, is a. dependable member o'f the bar and of the State LegisLatur e . Dr. George Lang, distinguished Professor of Religion and Philosophy at the University of Alabama, came from the Townley area. 'I'he Kings, Hendons, Langs, and Bouchelles were among the' residents in the Townley community whom I recall, all of them substantial people. In the' Corona, Oakman, Coal Valley area the out standi ng citizen was Dr. William Cunningham, who had served the people there from the very beginning of Mr. L. B. Musgrove's Corona Coal Company in the 1890's. In Corona, Dr. Cunningham had charge of a hospital, which was one of the first hospitals in the county. It provided incalcul'able benefits for the people of west Walker County. It came into the hands of the DeBardeleben Coal - 68 - Company through the purchase 01 that property. Dr. Cunningham was a rrril.d=manne r ed, strongwi.ll e d., capable physician and sur geon , and I doubt that any man in the history of the county contributed more to the physical well-being of the people. He had a lovely family: three cJ;1arn:ing, intelligent daughters, who, being brilliantly educated, added much to the life of the people in Walker County. There was an unusually'splendid type of Negro in the Corona-Coal Valley area. I learned later that Negroes had been rn.oved from farming areas of Mississippi into /the coal" mining regions of Walker County and there trained by Mr. M.usgrove's staff. They were de pendabl e , earnest, respectful, and kind in every way. Some oftho se men. or their descendants, are now working at Gorgas, having moved there via Stith Mine. :vhere Mr. Aldridge encouraged and he.lped them. It is my recollection that Mr .• Aldridge brought other men from Mississippi. following the plan that Corona Coal Company had adopted in the earlier years. Soon after we took over the operation .of the Corona Coal Company in 1923, many of the land owner s be.low 'Townley on Lost Creek and below Coal Valley on Cane Creek found deposits of smallsize coal on their lands. In the water from the '-: ' ·Coal Vall-ey and Townley washers. this coal passed- down the creeks and settled on certain farm lands. A firm of lawyers in Jasper, representing these land owners, had taken action in the courts. asking redress for damages caused by the settled coal. The claim of 'these farmers was for alleged damages to growing crops -mostly corn. For several years, there was a suit,' each year for - 69 • • . ~---------------------------------------each land owner , and the farmers ing damage s , were collect- After we acquired the propertie s , it carne to our attention that some types of coal had been used in Germany as a fertilizer in special soil situations. We went to Auburn and prevailed on the Department of Agronomy to investigate the effect coal dust has on growing crops. This department of the State Agricultural College reported ,that coal dust had no harmful effect. We verified these findings by planting corn and other crops on our own lands along the creeks in question. Our nexf step was to offer three prizes for the largest number of bushels of corn raised per acre, without the use of fertilizer, on the banks of the cr eek s where fine coal had been deposited. The first prize was $500, and the second and third were reduced in arnount , The outcome was the largest corn crop in the history of farming on those creeks. As I recall, the winner raised over forty bushels per acre, which was not a bad yield for Walker County fa.r m land at that ti~e. Experi:ments are presently being conducted on the use of fine coal as fertilizer and, I under stand, with satisfying results. After we awarded the prizes, no . person in Alabama. so far as I know. has entered suit. for damages to his land caused by settled coal. During the mid-1920's, after DeBardeleben Coal Corn parry acquired the Empire and Corona companies. mine safety groups were organized at each of the company mines. Monthly safety meetings were held in Jasper at the motion picture theater, which was operated by John Johnson. Men with outstanding safety records and the supervisors of each :mine attended these conferences and participated in discussions relating to safety problems and pr ac ti ce-s , - 70 - Each mine accident was examined and discussed. At the luncheon following the meeting. held at the Collins Hotel or in the basement of the Methodist Church. the group heard interesting' addresses by distinguished engineers. members of the staff of the Bureau of Mines and the State Mine Inspector 's office, and other prominent men in many fields of endeavor. It was during these years that the Hull Mine of DeBardeleben Coal Company won the famous "Sentinel of Safety Trophy" as recognition for having operated one year without a lost-time accident. Thi s was the' fir st mine 'in Alabama ever to win this award. In the intervening 30 years or more it has been pr e s ente d onLy2 or 3 tin;t.es to coal mine s in this s ta.te . During this, period, once each year a Walker County "Fir st Aid II conte st was held at the old Jasper Fair Grounds. Teams from all the mines in the county participated, and rivalry was strong. AS' a result of this safety work, interest in safety conditions in the mines and ,safety measures were greatly improved. The people of Jasper were at all times interested and encouraging. and they joined in our pride at the success of these worthy efforts. The competition between the "First Aid II teams was almost as keen as between the basebail teams of the Walker County League. This League in the early 20 IS consisted of teams from Sipsey. Empire, Dora, Cordova. Coal Valley, Carbon Hill, Jasper and Parrish. Dixie Walker, the famous Washington pitcher, coached the Sipsey team. Dixie's sons, Fred. Dixie, Jr •• and Har r y , were reared in Sipsey and became famous Big League stars. - 71 - ,- The maximum production of coal in Walker County -~6. 250. 000 torrs was attained in 1926. 'three years after DeBardelebe'n Coal Co r po r-at io n acquired the Corona and Empire properties. At that time the railroads consum.ed more Walker County coal than any other custom'er.' The bulk of the great tonnage came from the. Mary Lee Seam at Sarno s e t, Dora, Hull, Red Star, Burnwell. and Cordova, and from the mines from Parrish to Nauvoo on the North Alabama Railroad. The high grade coals from Empire to Sipsey were u.s e d for domestic purposes and for coking coal. The' battery of beehive ovens ope r at ing in 1922 at Empire continued to produce as late as 1923 or 1924.~ Other beehive ovens were operated at the old Ivy Mine of the Slos s Company. which later becam.e Hull Mine. The mines at Corona, 'I'ownl e y ,'. Carbon Hill and Holly Grove furnished steam coal in the small,size: Lump. egg, and nut coal ~ere considered middle -grade domestic, coal, which moved toward the west and southwest in the Memphis area of Tennessee and in Louisiana. r r- Then carne the .finan cia.I debacle which struck our entire country in 1929 and extended 'with severity through 1930 and 1931. . The effect of this financial crisis shows in the marked reduction in the tonnage produced in Wal;ker County. Production slipped to 1, 9l9~ 556 tons in 1935 and did not recover untii the war period between 1940 and 1946 or 1947, when there was ?-n extremely large demand for coal for export to Europe. The increase came when Eur-opean countries laid waste by wa r were beginning to restore their economy. But the financial crisis of our country in 1930 was not the only cause of the devastation which finally overtook the coal industry in Walker Co~nty. In ~ - 72 - • 1931 natural gas .rriade its first appearance in the State. Because gas at the wells sold for two to three cents per thousand cubic foot and pipe lines were limited to those areas close to the gas fields, notably. in Louisiana, the Alabama coal fields were the first fields in the United States to feel the effect of competition from natural gas. The readily available customers for natural gas were the stearn boilers of manufacturing plants. Those same steam boilers ~in sugar refineries, cotton mills, power plants, all in Alabama's rrra.rk.e t area-had been heavy consumers of steam coal from Walker County. The Monroe Gas Field in"Louisiana was among the very first large gas fields -that were brought into commercial production and distribution by means of pipe lines. The area first served 'by the producers .of gas from this field was the area that required the shortest pipe lines to be laid from the fields. The natural gas industry was a new and untried venture; accordingly. the industry experienced difficulties in the initial financing, as is. common enough in new businesses; and the. pipe lines were limited to those communities and manufacturing facilities located in closest proximity to the gas field. Because this service area happened to be the same one that purchased Alabama stearn coal, the Alabama Goal industry suffered Jirst and suffered more than any other coal-producing field. But the outlook is not altogether gloomy; for. as gas r e « s er.ve s are depleted by the increased corraurnptton , which is now the trend, those markets that are at greatest distance from the gas fields and therefore command the highest delivered price for the gas will be the favored areas, whereas the markets in closest proximity to the gas fields will be supplied by coal. especially coal for steam -producing purposes. This should redound to the benefit of the - 73 - • The fact that British ThermAlabama coal industry. al Units can be transported at less cost in pipe lines ·than .B T U's in coal in railroad cars enhanc e s the advantages of gas in distant markets. For the producers of coal, the markets close by offer an oppo r tuni.ty, .. When the railroads. which were the only remaining customer for steam coal. became die s el i.zed, the outlook was indeed bleak. Commercial coal operators, who were largely Alabamians making a fair return on their investment, were not inclined to reinvest their money in coal property or mechanization after the mines which were then in operation became exhausted •. Befor-e 1930,· all of the Walker County coal properties were exploited by means of mines opened on the outcrop of the seam or ,by means of mines whose coal bed was reached with shallow slopes or shafts. During this very period, when prices and demands were depressed and mines were becoming exhausted, the only roanner in which the 'production could have been maintained, had there been a market' would have been by mechanization of the mines or by the development of new mines at depth. Ei~her pr oducti on inethod necessitated expenditures of millions of dollars and a development in areas where the coal searn could be reached only through more expensive and costly means of attack such as rock slopes and rock shafts. And so the output waned, and rn err, becoming idle, sought work in other coal fields and other vocations. One mine after another was abandoned until the Walker County production dropped to a minirouro in 19500 The 600;000 tons of that year was the lowest since 1913. The Alabama Power Company produced or purchased 1: - 74 - 70% to 75% of the 1950 tonnage. In general, the culture of a people is dependent upon their economic well-being. If the culture of Walker County people is evaluated solely in terms of their economy, one of the most important events in the history of the· county was the corning of the Alabama Power Company to its confines. The county's vast deposits of fine quality coal is indeed a great blessing from Proyidence. When the United States Government, in need of explosives, erected the stearn plant at Gor ga.s in' 1918 or 1919 to supplement thevpowe r necessary to produce nitric acid at Muscle Shoals, an important step was taken to insure the expl ot.ta.tion of the Walker County coal fields. The ne~t step was' 'the final. acquisition of the stearn plant by the Alabama Power Company. The steam plant along with the coal property in the High Level, Gorgas area, which the Alabama Power Company bought from the Sloss -Sheffield Steel and Iron Company, gave a.ssur arice that the culture of Walker County, if dependent on e coriorrric well-being, would be supported by great natural resources. Within the confines of the county, Mr. T. W. Martin finally established a giant growing i.ndustr'y , which carries with it an assured future. The judgment and the vision which brought about this development w:ere entirely Mr. Martin's. In the acquisition of these properties,' he utilized the services of Mr. A. B. Aldridge of the Stith Coal Company, to whom reference has already been made. Mr. T. W. Martin's life has been dedicated and consecrated to the upbuilding of Alabama; through him more than through any other, Walker County has gained much and will gain more. - 75 - Here is an illustration of the way the policy of the Alabama Power Company has affected the 'people of Walker County. Toward the end of World War 1, when Mr. Aldridge began to operate the property of the Southeastern Fuel Company, he carried on the mine operation at Gorgas under the name of the Southeastern Fuel Company and operated another mine in the Pratt Seam near the present steam plant under the supervision of the Winona Coal Company. In 1930 and,1931. when business was depressed owing to the pa.ni.c, and natural gas was competing with Alabama coal, the Alabama Power Company chose to close down its own mining operations and buy coal f r orrr-op e r a.tor s in Walker County. This action enabled the coal producer s of Walker County to rna irrta in their business during the Depression. The mines at Gorgas did ..not resume operation until 1941, when the sho.rtage of coal, caused by another 'war, necessitated a change in policy. It requires nq prophet to predict that the growing section of Walker County will be in the area to the south and southwest of Parrish. extending down to the Tuscaloosa line. There the Alabama Power Company and its associate company, the Southern Electric Generating Company, 'possess enormous reserves of workable coal. . .The Louis Smith Dam above Sipsey will provide an ample flow of water during the hot summer months; and the restrictions due to the heating of water, which formerly limited the number of generating units at Gorgas, will be greatly reduced. The spirit of liberality and sincere interest which the Alabama Power Company has manifested in the wellbeing of the county make it one of the county I s greatest physical and moral assets. - 76 - • r-;:::=-------------Harry M. Johnstone was the first superintendent when coal was again mined at Gorgas. Harry was born in Carbon Hill, was graduated from Auburn •. and had broad experience in coal mining, having served as a young mining engineer with the old Galloway Coal Company at Carbon Hi.II and for several years as a mine inspector for the State of Alabama and as superintendent of a large coal mine in Jefferson County for Republic Steel Cor por a.tion, Mr. Johnstone was a good mining man, highly regarded by his associates, especially the mine workers; being greatly irrte r e s te d in s afe ty, he initiated many preventive measures which contributed to the excellent safety recor,d the Alabama Powe r Company has maintained for many year s , One of the more difficult oc cupat ion s to fill in connection with a mine operation in an isolated community is that of deputy sheriff. I recall vividly the difficult experiences which were mine during prohibition days. 1 have found through the years that it is unusual to find a representative of the law who has the faculty of maint.aining good relations with other employees and at the same time maintain a high standard of law enforcement. Usual.Iy, if a man is congenial, he has great difficulty in drawing a line as to where his congenialty should end. And, too, it has been my experience that if he "i s unnecessarily unyeilding in his application of the law, his relations with his fellow employees ~re strained. During the years, a man who has adequately met my standards as a deputy sheriff is a man at Gorgas by the name of Joe Moore. Not only does Joe understand his fellow workers, but his sense of human relations is splendid. At the same time, no man -ever encroaches upon his legal authority. The best measure of this man is his fine attitude towar.d his wife and his lovely daughte-r, - 77 - who was graduated from the University of Alabama, and \.\h0 is presently employed in the Welfare Department of Walker County. The good residents of southwest Walker, who have long highly valued the great industry within the county, have cooperated without reserve in the development of it. The Winns, who operate a general store at Good Springs, are of the t ypeT have in mind. One of the brothers was a player on the famous Sipsey ball team, which was coached by the original Dixie Walker. The Cr umps , the Da.vis e s , the Woods. and other men of such caliber were .arnong the splendid citizens of the area. '. These are only a few. Men like John' Forem~n.; who wqrked with A. B. Aldridge, and Jack Wilson, who succeeded John, labored unflinchingly for the advancement of this part of the country. Back in the early days at Sipsey, a Mr. Burke and his wife were efuployed in the company store. They now live near Gorgas, and Mr. Burke is the succes sful proprietor of a thriving merchandise business. One of the outstanding accomplishments in the southwestern part of the county in recent years. was the er e ct ion of a .rrio de r n , attractive Junior High School building, deservedly named Thomas W. Martin High School. The first principal of the new schobl was Raymond Faught; he is now County Superintendent of Education, and the new principal is W. T. Brakefield, who comes from one of the outstanding families at Carhon Hill. Professors Faught and Brakefield have served the school admirably and the community too. In recent years the science classes and the laboratory in this school have been rated among the best in Walker County; ~ 78 - • Schools impart a great and lasting good to all communities. This is especially true in mining communities. where the home has not, generally speaking, been the influence for good that it has been in so many communities. But the school can never supplant the home. nor should .we expect teachers to be substitutes for parents. The home of any family, regardless of the vocation of the breadwinner. is the corner stone of Democratic society-the first great influence. Everything which is good, every phase of our e,xistence must emanate from the home. This is one Ie's s on , one doctrine, that I have striven to bring home to men-mostly coal miners -during my half century of direct association with them. Although' I 'cannot tell what infl.uence my doctrine of the home has had, I can say, and proudly say, that I have many warm friends among coal miner s and the children 01 miner s . If I may be pardoned for this observation, I would impress upon management, management not only of coal mining but of all industry, that employee relationship does not end at the checkout card. It is better for management to be accused of pate r naleizm than for management to fail to show normal: human interest in men and women and their homes and children. The inner satisfaction that comes to those who practice this relationship knows no bound s , .My experience is that some unions seek to discredit this interest that management should have in employees. Because many unions fail to show interest in the home life of their members, it is all the more fitting that .employers should practice the fundamental principle of altruistic and lofty human relationship. - 79 - My interest in Alabama Power Company's coal property began in 1935 when I made a report to Mr. Martin setting out the possibilities that a highly mechanized mine could be developed in the' Gorgas property. My report revealed the recoverable tons and the thickne s s of the' coal in the pr operty, calculated for. each seam and for ea ch forty acres. A renewal of the mine operation began in '1941, and the first coal was produced on December 11th of that year. From 1941 through 1959, the property, includi,ng lands pur-cha s ed from Alabama 'Fuel and Iron Company, has produced approximately ,15,500, 000 tons. all of which has been consumed at the Gor gas Steam Plant. In 1951 or 1952 the Aiabama Power Company acquired fro:m the Alabama F'ue Larid Iron Company the lands known as the Empire Land Company property. which c on.sis te d of some 12, 000 acres and contained roughly 100. 000, 000 .tdns of recoverable coal in three explored, workable, super.imposed s earn s , This purchase made the Alabama Power Company secure in the possession of adequate reserves im:mediately adja.ce nt to its great steam plant. The Alabama Power Company riowhol ds this favorable position in the utilities field: it owns a large steam plant located on and adjacent to a splendid coal property; the water resource is ample to supply a great electric utility. The Company's favorable position cannot be duplicated in many ins tarice s in this country, or, for that matter, throughout the world. One of the interesting historic events at Gorgas was the experi:ment we conducted.in 1947 on the underground gasification of coal. This experiment, the _ first of its ~ind in any country except Ru s s ia., evoked - 80 - • national and international atte nti.on. The experiment was conducted jointly by the Alabama Power Company and the U. S. Bureau of Mines of the Department of the Interior. An International meeting of engineers to discuss the subject was held at Birmingham, including a symposium and an inspection of the Gorgas' works'. U. S. engineers attended in large numbers; many engineers came from France, Belgium .• England. ltaly, and other foreign lands. The experiment, which had shown great progress and enc our-ag ing results, was terminated in July 1959. owing t~ a reduction in the funds budgeted to the Bureau of Mines by the Federal Government. The Bureau held .the opinion that other work of current interest and public demand wa s-rnor e vital than !'he onat:rgroona gasIncacfon of coaL, whfch cae Bureau regarded as a matter for' the future. Also, the Bureau of Mines was convinced tha.th ea t units could be presently pr-oduced at a lower cost from highly mechanized underground mines than by underground gasification; the Bureau believed, further, that we should await the results of the experiments in England and those from the installatio~s in Ru_ssia. But those who disagreed with the Bureau of Mines felt that we in this country were not a.c+ ' customed to follow in such undertakings and that the delay' was an error in judgment. Since that time, and within the year, authentic information has been received that the Russians have several successful commercial installations producing large quantities of gas from c.oal burned in place for the generation of electric powe r , Enginee~s from - 81 - the Arnerican Society of Mechanical Engineer sand fr orn the American Institute of Mining Engineers are now considering an inspection trip to Russia to exarrri ne the Russian e s tabl ishmerits , Exarnination of the data received through English engineers who have inspected the Russian plants and of data obtained from a neutral source in Switzerland reveals that the work at Gorgas and that in Russia were conducted in al mo s t identical rriarmer s , The difference is that the Russians I experirnents were rrruch rnor e extensive; the Russians empl oye d 400 technicians and 3000 workers in their experirnents, whereas. the Gorgas experiment employed no -rnor e than 50, including engineers and chemists. The ac cornpl ishrnerrts -of the Russians will no doubt revive and enlarge the work in our country, as they should. In 1955 the production at Gorgas Mine, including strip coal, was 54% of the total production of the county. In 1956 it was 59-1/2%; in 1957 it was 62%; in 1958 it was 57-1/2%; and in 1959 it was 65% of the total production. It is not unreasonable to conclude that this proportion will grow as the year s pas ~ if the production of coal fr orn the new SEGCO operation near Parrish is added to the production of Gorgas Mine. The annual estirnated tonnage of coal that will be required fr orn Walker County m ine s in 1964 will be greater than that produced in the year of rrrax.imurri production, which was 1926, when nearly 6,500,000 tons were rrrined, Two iarge utility cornparrie s , it is estirnated, will require 6,000,000 tons; and, if the present tonnage sales to consurners - 82 - other than utilities are maintained, the estimated production of Walker County coal in 1964 will exceed 7, 500, 000 tons. The day of the hand-loaded coal .i.nmines of limited capacity is largely a thing of the past. Such mines have been replaced by large capacity, highly mechanized operations developed at a cost of millions of dollars. For example, to develop and provide facilities for a mine ,that produces 1, SOD, 000 tons annually costs no less than $9, 000, OOO-or $6. 00 per ton of annual production. Forty-eight and one half percent of all the coal produced in the United States in 1957 carne from mines that produce annually more than 500,000 net tons each. This trend has increas~d since 1957. * In all of the coal fields of the United States, particularly in the Eastern and more thickly populated area, the seams now being w orke d are thinner and more inaccessi.ble than were the !?eams that were being worked in previous years. This trend forecasts the ma gni tude of the cost of future operations. "Walker County operators. foreseeing the cost of mining thinner and more inaccessible seams and being al er te d to the competition from natural gas, have not reinvested large sums in deeper mines and thinner seams. The future will bring, as I see it, * See Volume II of the Annals of West Alabama for an article on "The Future of Coal in Walker County and the Underground Gasification Experiment. " - 83 - • ,-greater concentration of mine production in large corporations that make use of more and more autorna.ti on , The number of men r equi r ed to produce this coal of the future will be fewer than those called for in 1926. Wages, however, are already four or five times what they were in 1926; .;- The men of the county have proved apt mine pupils in acquiring the skills essential to the working of these machines, c orrrpl i cat ed as they are. The younger men, particularly, have shown their mechanical skill and understanding. In the future .there should be an arripl e s uppl.y of fine, upstanding, dependable men who will be prepared to operate the coal mines of the ~c;>unty. But what of the coal itself? In southwest Walker County, in the American and'Mary Lee Seams, lies a vast tonnage of reserves. of coal. In the Black Creek Seam, which underlies the. whole of Walker County, there is an enormous, although unproven, amount of coal. The 'Coal is thin but of high quality. It was mined at Empire and Sipsey and has been sufficiently explored from Dora to the river and in the vicinity of Barney for one to say at least that its existence is proven. From Parrish to the west in the Coal ValleyCo r ona surroundings, the Mary Lee Seam lies largely unexplored. Where it has been drilled, the seam was found to be good steam coal but less than 36" thick. I am convinced that no one needs to worry about whether there will be an adequate supply of coal to meet future demands made on Walker County. The coal is there under the ground. _. 84 - • r.:==:::-::----------~~-~-. 'I'hat portion of Walker's coal field. that adjoins or is close to the river lies in a favorable location. I have information that by 1970 one electric utility holding company alone will require an estimated 27,500 tons per day, for t r aris po r ta ti on only by water, five days a week. The corrrpa.rry.w i.Llvrno ve this coal by barge on. the Warrior River to the coast and along the Intercoastal Canal. For twerrty vni.ne years, 1905-1934, Ihad been in charge of rrrine ope r attons' in Alabama.' During this entire time the operations had not lost as much as five minutes because of a strike. Shortly after Franklin D. Roosevelt was inaugurated, the Administration established a policy of collective bargaining. As a method of making contracts, collective bargaining, .with its many claims to merit, could not be withstood by Indus tr y in the face' of governmental sanction. .That pensions, ho spi tal izati on , increased .:wages. and many other accrued. benefits brought a better lif~_to the mine workers in Walker County cannot be denied, and I doubt that anyone would now advocate a return to the old methods by which management controlled labor. During the years, I had witnessed many inexcusable .acts of injustice on the part of the coa.l ope-rators in Walker County. Some operators reduced wages to reclaim lost business from other operator_s.; depressed living conditions among the miners usually followed such unforgivable bad judgment. When in the early thirties the operator of a coal mine in Walker County reduced the pay of a skilled worker - the track man - to $2.50 fo r a ten-hour day, the. men at that mine went on strike. Two othe r operators in Walker County raised sufficient money among their friends to feed and maintain the striking workers - 85 - for two weeks or rrior e , until their wages were restored and the wage -price cutting stopped. This act of kindness ca:me too late. The narrow views of many operators or their indifference to human relations were serious short-co:mings in judgment. These faults of m ana.gerrie nt were not limited to Walker County; they were common throughout the nation. It is no wonder, then, that coal miners finally joined unions, which forced the operators into contracts :more favorable for the miners, who needed pensions and hospitalizatio~, now provided by unions. Power, either'. in the hands of big government or big labor unions or big business, if abused, can bring the wrath of. the people down upon all. 1£the unions of the courrtr y continue the abus e s which Senator McClellan of Arkansas has found to be more general than the public ever suspected, they will surely da:mage themselves. The pension funds of labor organizations, now amounting to tremendous amassed wealth, should be as gr eat a r.esponsibility as the money paid into insurance companies by the policy holders for the protection of their families. Every legal means should be invoked to see to it that those pension funds are adequately guarded for the men and women and children, and pa r ti cul.a.r>' ly the aged, who are dependent upon this s our ce of suste naric e entrusted to union organizations. The history of labor relations in Walker County was changed in 1930 from what had been :more or less traditional in the county before that year. According to my rne mo r y , the first labor organizational strike occurred in Alabama in 1904; there was another in 1908. Most of the State was affected by these strikes in those years, but not Walker County, which was generally regarded by all of the citizens - 86 - of the State as being non-union in attitude. After I moved to Sipsey, my first experience with labor dis sention came in 192O. During a period of great prosperity, most of the mines in the area became organized, but the workers at Sipsey and at a few other mines remained steadfastly on their jobs. The steadfastness of Sipsey miners was not due to any lack of sympathy for their fellow workers on. strike but due, I think, to the close relationship existing between the management of the company and the men; the close r-e.la'tion.shi.p was strongly supported by the great interest my wife had in school and church and other phases of village life as well as by her sincere friendship with many of the women in the community. After the economic crash in 1929 had prepared the way and the New Deal had corne with its NRA and Wagner Labor Act , and natural gas as a competitor was depressing the coal market, then the mines of Walker County became unionized. But the miners at Coal Valley, Hull, Townley, Empire, and Sipsey were among the last to join the United Mine Workers Union. When Rose and 1 moved to Walker County j n 1912, we .transplanted ourselves into the age of the oneroom log schoolhouse, the circuit riding minister, and a terrible benightedness. Although many of the pe-ople were indeed "children of a darker night. " they taught us much. They were generous, kindly, and uncomplaining. They accepted Rose and me ho spi tably and wholeheartedly • •. As the years have passed, I-have realized mOl;e and more my great sense of gratitude to these people - 87 - ·r-------------------------~-- who taught me so much during my formative years. Although I had read more and traveled more and .' observed more, I doubt that I had thought more or felt more deeply. I doubt that attitudes of mine were superior to theirs or my imagination livelier; and I doubt, too, that I could discriminate between the true and the false, the tawdry and the genuine, the trappings and the r eal iti e s of life better than these plain. God-fearing men and women. .' With the advent of the automobile and better roads and r adi o and television, the people of Walker County changed; .good schools helped them broaden their outlook. Still, their basic sense of righteousness and their devoti.on to fundamentals were already theirs when Rose aridT rnove d Into the old Phillips house. Those virtues in. Walker County people must go back to pioneer sto ck , And I see the same virtues in the present generation, who are just as frank, just as strong, and"will be just as enduring as were their forebea~s. whom I knew half a century ago. If I were possessed of a talent for' poetry I would have made an epic of this insufficient history of -onl.y one phase of the life of a single county in Alabama. And this would have been the epilogue: The, subject of my verses would not have been "The Man with the Hoe" or "The Man with the Bull Tongue Plow", but "The Man with a Light-on His Cap." And I would have 'sung here, not of the judges and the s ena.tor s or the merchant princes and other affluent men. Rather, I would have laid my poor words of praise at the feet of the average man and woman, the miner and miner's wife, whom I encountere-d in Walker County and learned to love. - 88 - • ..