growing guides - Heirloom Solutions
Transcription
growing guides - Heirloom Solutions
Growing Guide www.HeirloomSolutions.com Join Our Heirloom Solutions Membership Program With a $29.95 annual membership, you will help us to restore these rare and endangered seeds to the American public. You’ll also get some great members-only benefits, such as: • Our very own Old Time Heirloom Seed Saving DVD ($19.95 value) • Two free Packets of seed from our current selection ($10 value) • 15% off every order • Earn 5% back with Heirloom Rewards points. • Access to rare seeds (as available) that we are in the process of refining for release. • Access to “Members Only” area on our website. This is filled with instructional videos, growing guides, and more. • Please note that to receive your discount you must complete your membership purchase one business day prior to placing your next order. Flowers Agastache – Sow agastache seed in early spring by scattering seed over area to be planted then lightly raking into loose moist soil. Agastache seedlings will emerge in 3 - 4 weeks. Once seedlings are well established; thin down to 14 – 18” apart. Harvest agastache flowers as they bloom. For seed saving, allow the seedheads to dry on the plant. Once dried, harvest the seeds and plant in a planting tray under a layer of mulch for transplant the following spring. Amaranth (Love Lies Bleeding) – Sow seeds inside 6 - 8 weeks before last frost ¼” deep in pots. Thin out the strongest seedlings once well developed. Transplant amaranth to the garden after last frost and space 8 -10” apart. Love Lies Bleeding can grow up to 5' tall. Bachelor Buttons – Sow seed outdoors in early spring, 1-2 weeks before the last frost. Sow seed ¼” deep and 1” apart making sure the seeds are well covered as bachelor button seed needs absolute darkness to germinate. After seedlings are well established, thin them down to 6 – 8” apart. Harvest bachelor buttons as needed. As with most flowers, deadheading will ensure a continual bloom. Calendula - Calendula is a quick germinator and a fast grower, but to achieve continual blooming by mid-summer, start seeds early in the season. Direct sow calendula seed into the garden, ¼” deep in a place they can go undisturbed as this flower will reseed for years. As with most plants, a nice treatment of compost once a month will make for more healthy and beautiful plants. Columbine - Sow columbine seed in early spring by scattering seed over area to be planted then lightly raking into loose moist soil. Columbine seedlings will emerge in 1 -2 weeks. Once seedlings are well established; thin down to 12 – 18” apart. Columbine is a must have for a bird – lovers garden. Cosmos - After the last frost, sow seeds directly into the garden 1/8” deep spaced 8” apart. Most cosmos varieties thrive on neglect and prefer poor soil and will grow well in almost any conditions. As with most flowers, deadheading will ensure continual blooming. Dusty Miller – Sow dusty miller seed in early spring about 2 -3 weeks before last frost, by scattering seed over area to be planted then lightly raking into loose moist soil. Dusty Miller seedlings will emerge in 2 - 3 weeks. Once dusty miller seedlings are well established; thin down to 6 12” apart. Dusty miller makes an excellent border or container plant. Four O Clocks – Sow four o clock seed 1 -2 weeks before last frost ¼” deep and 10 -12” apart. Four o clocks are one of the few 'moonflowers' available meaning; they are open during the night. Composting and deadheading will do this flower well. Four o clocks can be propagated by its tubers in the fall. Store the tubers in a dark location in damp peat moss. Hollyhocks – To insure flower growth in the first year; start hollyhock seed indoors in the fall or 10 weeks before the last frost ¼” deep in 4” pots. Once the seedlings are well developed and after danger of frost, transplant hollyhocks into the garden spacing them 12 – 18” apart. Hollyhocks can grow up to 9' tall and will self – seed. Hollyhocks are susceptible to fungal diseases and should only be watered at the base of the plant and not on the leaves or flowers. Cut hollyhock to 3” off of the ground after flowering to encourage new growth. Love In a Mist– Sow love in a mist seed in early spring by scattering seed over area to be planted then lightly raking into loose moist soil. Love in a mist seedlings will emerge in 2 - 4 weeks. Once love in a mist seedlings are well established; thin down to 6” apart. Love in a mist will grow to 24” tall, is a relative of the buttercup and is excellent for container or border planting. Marigold – Sow marigold seed indoors 6 – 8 weeks before last frost ¼” deep in pots. Once marigold seedlings are well established, transplant into the garden spacing them 6 -24” apart depending on the height of the plant. Marigolds make excellent border plants in the vegetable garden as their scent repels certain animals and insects. The marigold is also a natural 'trap plant' for the parasitic nematode which can damage the roots on many vegetable plants affecting quality and yield. Morning Glories - Sow morning glory seed in late spring when soil temperatures are 60⁰F and above, ¼” deep and spaced 6” apart. Scarification and an overnight soaking will expedite germination. Grow morning glories on a pergola or fence as they are prolific climbers. Morning glories will begin to bloom in early summer and up until the last frost and are great self- seeding plants. Nasturtium – Sow nasturtium in the garden after danger of frost. Soak nasturtium seed overnight, then plant ½” deep spaced about 10 – 12” apart. The leaves and flowers of nasturtium have a peppery taste and are a great addition to a salad. Plant pumpkins, squash or cucumbers near nasturtium to aid in repelling the cucumber beetle and the squash vine borer. Night Scented Tobacco – Sow night scented tobacco indoors 6 – 8 weeks before the last frost 1/8” deep in pots. Once night scented tobacco seedlings are well established transplant them into the garden spacing them 18 – 24” apart. Night Scented tobacco will grow up to 5' tall and produce white trumpet flowers all the way up its stalk. A beautiful addition to a garden. Its sticky nicotine covered leaves aid in keeping unwanted insects out of the garden. Night scented tobacco will readily self- seed. Phlox – Sow phlox seed indoors 6 – 8 weeks before the last frost 1/8” deep in pots. Once phlox is well established and after the last frost, transplant seedlings into the garden spacing them 8 -10” apart. Phlox is very susceptible to fungal disease and should be watered at the base of the plant and not on it leaves and flowers. Phlox can be propagated once the plant is well established. Zinnia – One of the easiest flowers to grow, the zinnias are a fantastic plant for garden color and cutting purposes. Sow zinnia seed into the garden after danger of frost ¼” deep and spaced 3 – 4” apart. Once the seedlings are well established, thin them down to 6 -12”. Keep zinnias deadheaded for continual flowering. Zinnias are susceptible to fungal disease and should be watered at the base of the plant and not on its leaves and flowers. Garlic Planting garlic in the fall is a fantastic way to keep the spirits lifted as the rest of the garden is being shut down in the fall. Garlic is the most important ingredient in cooking and the best all natural pest repellant; including keeping those pesky vampires at bay! Garlic is a member of the allium family which includes onions, leeks and shallots. There are 2 common types of garlic used; hard-neck and softneck; both having different characteristics. Hard-neck garlics are hardier, have larger bulbs and grow scapes. Scapes are stalks that shoot up from the garlic bulb in early spring and produce bulbils which can be left on or can be cut down and eaten. Generally the scape is cut down so that the plants energy stays focused on growing the bulb. Hard-neck varieties grow best in northern zones where the winters are cold. Mid-October to late November or right after the first frost is the ideal time to plant hard-neck garlics in the northern zones. In the south, a mid-February to late March planting is best and stratification would be necessary for a successful crop. Work some compost or grass clippings into the soil before planting to help the roots develop before the severity of winter sets in. Plant individual cloves about 2” below the soil surface with the pointy end of the clove up, and space them about 8” apart. Cover the cloves with soil then mulch the planted garlic with either grass clippings or straw, which will insulate the forming bulbs, help to retain water and keep weeds from coming up. Soft-neck garlics do not tolerate extreme cold as well as hard-necks, have smaller bulbs with more cloves and typically do not grow scapes. Soft-neck garlics do best in warmer climate zones 8 – 10. Soft-neck garlics store very well and are usually what are found in grocery stores. If planting soft-neck garlic in the northern zones, plant like a hardneck but with a thicker layer of mulch. For southern zones; plant in mid–October to late November and/or February to late March the same way you would plant in a northern zone but planting garlic cloves at a depth of 4 - 6” as the soil will be cooler, which is a more ideal growing environment for garlic. Discontinue watering once the leaves begin to turn brown. This helps to reduce the likelihood of mold growth and rot. Harvest hard-neck garlic when half of the leaves on the plant turn brown which is usually in mid -July to late August for Northern growers. Garlic grown in the southern zones will be ready for harvest much sooner in June – July. Remove as much of the soil on the bulbs as possible by hand and do not use water to clean the bulbs as this will invite mold and rot; what dirt remains on the bulb can be brushed off at a later time. Cure the garlic for 4-6 weeks by tying 4 or 5 stems in bunches and hang in an area that is dry, out of direct sunlight and is well ventilated. Use fans if necessary to prevent mold and rot. After garlic is cured, trim the roots and stalks and brush off any remaining dirt to prepare them for longterm storage. Save the biggest and best bulbs for replanting again in the fall. Store in a cool, dark and dry location and garlic can keep for up to 6 months. Herb Growing Guide Arnica – Sow arnica seed indoors, 6 – 8 weeks before the last frost. Sprinkle arnica seed on loamy damp soil and lightly cover with soil as arnica seed needs light to germinate. Once seedlings have emerged and are well developed (1-2” tall), repot into individual containers until transplanting into the garden. Once the danger of frost has passed transplant seedlings into the garden and space 12” apart. Harvest arnica flowers as they mature and harvest the roots in the fall after the leaves turn brown and have died off. Basil – Sow basil seeds indoors, 6 – 8 weeks before the last frost. Sprinkle basil seed on damp loamy soil and lightly cover with ¼” of soil. Germination should occur in about 7 to 10 days. Basil can be transplanted outside or directly sown into the garden 8 – 12” apart after danger of frost. Black Cohosh - Sow black cohosh seed in the spring by scattering seed over area to be planted, then lightly raking into loose moist soil. Black cohosh is native to wetland areas so keeping it well watered is important for vigorous growth. Once seedlings are well developed thin them down to 8 - 10” apart. Black cohosh roots can be harvested for use or propagated in the fall. Boneset - Sow seeds 1/8" deep in pots and put them in the refrigerator for stratification for 3 -4 weeks for late summer or early fall planting. After stratification, germinate in a warm, well lit area indoors or outdoors if temperatures are holding above 65⁰F. Once seedlings have emerged and are well established, plant outdoors in moist soil 8 -12” apart. Harvest boneset leaves and flowers when in bloom, typically mid to late summer. Boneset roots can be divided in the spring or the fall. Borage – Direct sow borage seed into the garden 1-2 weeks prior to the last frost. Plant 3 - 4 seeds, ¼” deep and 15” apart. Borage will reseed but can be biennial so there may be no flowers the first year. Borage flowers, leaves and stems can be harvested and used fresh or dried. Medicinally, borage is used for skin ailments and women's reproductive issues. Borage flowers have a light cucumber flavor and make great additions to salads or any dish where that flavor is desired. Butterfly Weed - Sow seeds 1/4" deep in 4" pots and put them in the refrigerator for stratification for 4 weeks. After stratification, dampen soil and cover with plastic in a warm room (70 - 75⁰F). Germination will take approximately another 4 weeks. Once seedlings come up, remove the plastic and place in a sunny warm location. Transplant butterfly weed to its permanent location when plant is well established. Calendula - Calendula is a quick germinator and a fast grower, but to achieve continual blooming by mid-summer, start seeds early in the season. Sow calendula seed into the garden, ¼” deep in a place they can go undisturbed as this flower will reseed for years. As with most plants, a nice treatment of compost once a month will make for more healthy and beautiful plants. Harvest calendula petals as needed for additional flavor in soups and salads. The dried leaves and flowers are used for antibacterial and anti-inflammatory purposes. Catnip – Sow catnip seed indoors 1/8” deep in pots 3 – 4 weeks before last frost. Catnip is happiest with an abundance of water. Once catnip seedlings are well established, transplant into the garden after danger of frost. To keep the plant bushy, new growth must be pinched from the tips. When the plant starts to bud out, it is ready for harvest. Chamomile - Chamomile can be sown directly in the garden in spring or in fall, but fall sown seeds will not germinate until the following spring. Space plants about 6” apart on all sides and be sure to give them nearly full sun. Alternatively, chamomile can be started in flats about 4 weeks before last frost. Transplant the strongest seedlings to individual containers 4 weeks after they germinate and plant out in the garden when roots are established. Chicory - Sow chicory seeds directly into the garden 2 - 3 weeks before last frost. They will germinate and grow well in temperatures between 45 and 75⁰F, the cooler the temperature, the sweeter the chicory. Space seeds 12” apart in rows 24-36” apart. Thin the plants to 18” apart when they are about 4” tall. Chives – Sow chive seed indoors 1/4" deep in flats 6 weeks before your last frost. Seeds germinate in 15-21 days. Space plants 6 – 9” apart in the early spring and harvest as needed. Chives will reseed readily. Cilantro – Sow cilantro seed directly into the garden ¼” deep after danger of frost spacing seeds 1” apart. Thin the plants to 4” apart when the seedlings are about 1” tall. Harvest the leaves of the cilantro plant as needed or let it go to seed for coriander. Comfrey - Sow seeds 1/4" deep in pots and put them in the refrigerator for stratification 3 - 4 weeks for spring planting. After stratification, germinate in a warm area indoors. Once seedlings have emerged and are well established, plant outdoors in moist soil 12 – 18” apart after danger of frost. Comfrey is a member of the borage family and its flowers and leaves can be harvested as needed. Use comfrey cuttings fresh or dried. Common Rue - Sow seeds 1/4" deep in pots and put them in the refrigerator for stratification for 1 week. After stratification, dampen soil and cover with plastic in a warm room (70 - 75⁰F). Transplant into the garden 12” apart once seedlings are well established and nighttime temperatures stay above 60⁰F. Dill - Dill is one of the easiest herbs to grow and is also a prolific selfseeder. Sow dill directly into the garden after the last frost. Plant dill ¼” deep every 2” apart in rows that are 18” apart. Thin seedlings to 10 – 12” apart when they are about 2” tall and have their true leaves. Dill leaves and flowers can be harvested as needed and are used medicinally to soothe upset stomach and other pains. Harvest dill seed once the plant has died out. Dill seed is widely used in the culinary world and was once used as a remedy to keep hunger pains away during long church meetings. The culinary uses of dill are virtually unlimited. Evening Primrose - Direct sow evening primrose seed in the fall by scattering seed over area to be planted. Then lightly raking into loose moist soil or start seeds ¼” deep in pots indoors in the spring about 10 weeks before your last frost. Seeds can take up to 4 weeks to germinate. Once seedlings are well established, transplant into the garden 20” apart. Harvest evening primrose flowers while they are in full bloom. After flowers are done blooming, harvest seed, leaves and stem. Fennel – Sow fennel seed indoors 2 -3 weeks before last frost 1/4" deep in pots in temperatures around 65⁰F. Once seedlings are well established and overnight temperatures stay above 60⁰F, transplant into the garden. Space plants 8” apart in rows 18” apart. Harvest fennel leaves as needed and bulbs when they are at least 2” in size. Feverfew - Sow seeds inside 6 - 8 weeks before your last frost by sprinkling seeds on the surface of the soil and pressing down on them lightly to assure good contact with the soil. Thin out the strongest seedlings once well developed. Transplant to the garden after last frost and space 12” apart. Hyssop – Direct sow hyssop seed in the spring after danger of frost by scattering seed over area to be planted, then lightly raking into loose moist soil. Once hyssop seedlings are well developed, thin down to 12” apart and cut back any spindly growth to encourage a bushier growth habit. Harvest hyssop as needed. Hyssop can be used fresh or dried. Lavender - Sow seeds inside, 1/8" deep in pots in temperatures around 70⁰F. Lavender can take up to 3 weeks to germinate and will require an immense amount of light to get off to a good start. Windowsills are not sufficient for this task, but an inexpensive fluorescent shop light or small greenhouse will produce good results. Once seedlings are well established and after the danger of frost; transplant into the garden and space 8 – 12” apart. Harvest lavender leaves as needed. Lemon Balm - Direct sow lemon balm seed in early spring by scattering seed over area to be planted then lightly raking into loose moist soil. Growth is quite slow the first year, but will increase in subsequent years. Harvest leaves before the plant goes into bloom for the best fragrance. Marjoram – Sow 3 -4 marjoram seeds ¼” deep in moist soil, 6 – 8 weeks before last frost. Cover the pots with clear plastic and keep indoors in temperatures of 65 - 70⁰F for good germination. Once marjoram seedlings appear remove plastic. Transplant marjoram seedlings to the garden after danger of frost, spacing seedlings 12” apart or continue to grow in pots. Harvest marjoram flowers and leaves as needed. Marshmallow - Sow seeds 1/4" deep in 4" pots and put them in the refrigerator for stratification for 1 month. Marshmallow seed should be planted directly into the garden after danger of frost. Plant marshmallow seeds 1/4" deep in damp soil approximately 12” apart. Marshmallow will not grow very large the 1st year, but will get much bigger the following years if given room to grow. Thinning the plants down to 24 -36” apart will allow this plant to grow up to 4'. Mexican Hat Coneflower - Sow seeds 1/4" deep in 4" pots and put them in the refrigerator for stratification for 9 weeks for container gardening or a spring planting. Mexican Hat coneflower can also be direct seeded in the fall by scattering seed over the area to be planted, then lightly raking seed into the soil. Mexican Hat coneflower will appear in the first year, but will not flower until the 2nd year. Mexican Hat coneflower is drought tolerant and does best unattended. Parsley – Parsleys are tolerant of light frosts and can be sown directly into the garden 2 - 3 weeks before the last frost. Soak seeds in water overnight and plant them 1/4" deep in average soil. Space plants 6 – 10” apart to give them a little room to grow. Parsleys are a biennial and will not produce seeds until their second growing season. Peppermint - After the last spring frost and the soil has warmed, peppermint can be sown directly into your garden. Broadcast the seeds into the bed and when they get some size, thin them to about 12” apart. Peppermint will spread very quickly and, if not given attention, will become invasive in your yard and your neighbor's yard. To avoid this, plant peppermint in a bottomless pot in the ground; which will keep underground rhizomes contained. Purple Coneflower - Purple coneflower can be sown in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Plant the seeds 1/4" deep and space them 2” apart. When the seedlings are 2” tall, thin them to 16" apart. Purple coneflower is very tolerant of dry soils and performs well even in years of drought. To be assured of blooms the first year, start plants inside 4-6 weeks before last frost and transplant outside when soil has warmed. Rosemary - Rosemary germinates quite slowly, but, as always, patience and diligence will produce results. Seeds will germinate in about 25 days if you keep the seeds slightly damp and warm (65⁰F). Start rosemary indoors by sprinkling seed in pots and lightly covering with soil. Once rosemary seedlings are well developed, transplant into the garden 12 -18” apart. In zone 8 and higher; sow rosemary seed directly into the garden by the same method spacing 12 – 18” apart. Cooler zones require digging rosemary plants out of the garden and over-wintering in a garage or unheated area in pots. Rosemary will grow well in containers year round with proper care. Harvest rosemary leaves as needed. Sage - Sow sage seed in early spring by scattering seed over area to be planted, then lightly raking into loose moist soil. Thin seedlings to about 18" apart once well established. Seeds can also be started inside 4 weeks before your last frost in pots. Harvest sage leaves as needed. St John's Wort - Sow seeds 1/8" deep in pots and put them in the refrigerator for stratification for 3 -4 weeks for spring planting. After stratification, keep indoors in a warm area for germination. Once seedlings emerge and are well established, transplant into the garden 12 - 48” apart. St John's Wort is a perennial shrub and can grow 3-4' tall and up to 5' in diameter if space is permitted. Harvest ONLY the flowering tops of St John's Wort when it is in full bloom. The flowers contain the chemical hypericin which is responsible for the action of St John's Wort. Summer Savory – Sow 3 - 4 summer savory seeds 1/8” deep in pots, 6 – 8 weeks before last frost. Once seedlings emerge and are well established; thin seedlings out to the most dominant plant. Transplant seedlings into the garden after danger of last frost spacing seedlings 12 -18” apart or continue to grow in pots. Harvest summer savory leaves and stems as needed. Vervain –Sow vervain seed in early spring by scattering seed over area to be planted then lightly raking into loose moist soil. Vervain seedlings will emerge in 3 - 4 weeks. Once seedlings are well established; thin down to 12 – 18” apart. Harvest vervain flowers as they bloom. Valerian - Sow valerian seeds indoors 1/2" deep in small pots. Pots should be kept on the moist side at temperatures between 55 and 85⁰ F. Seeds will sprout sporadically over a 2 – 3 month period and can be transplanted when they have 2 sets of true leaves. Space plants 2 – 3' apart in full sun. Harvest the roots for drying or propagating in the fall. Yarrow - Sow seeds 1/4" deep in 4" pots and put them in the refrigerator for stratification for 4 weeks. After stratification, keep seeds in a warm area for germination. Once yarrow seedlings have emerged and are well developed plant yarrow 18” apart in well-drained soil. Harvest yarrow flower, leaves and stems when in bloom. Potato Growing Guide Potatoes are an easy crop to grow. Potato tubers can be cut into pieces, or planted whole. They can be planted in furrows or hills. The most important rule to growing potatoes is that the tubers are protected from sunlight. Sunlight will cause the toxin, solanine, to develop within the tubers, making the potatoes inedible. While planting whole potatoes is easier, it is possible to double and even triple the harvest by cutting the tubers. When cutting the tubers, make sure that there are at least 2 eyes on each cutting and allow 2 -3 days of drying time before planting. Plant cut tubers immediately after this drying period. When row planting, dig a narrow trench about 8” deep and place the tubers in the bottom of the trench, 18-24” apart. Rows should be spaced 3' apart so that access to the plants is unobstructed. Cover the tubers in the trench with 2 -3” of soil; do not fill the trench all the way. As the tubers begin to grow out of the soil, continue to cover around the plants with more soil as they grow up to the top of the trench. Once the trench is filled, continue covering the potatoes with soil another 3” above the original soil level. This process keeps the young tubers protected from the sunlight. When planting in hills, simply loosen the soil in the garden and rake mounds 18” in diameter and 4” above the garden bed. Plant 3-4 tubers 3” deep and follow the same process used for trenching as the plant grows. As the potatoes grow and the mounding continues; keep the soil wet and well weeded. In about 8 weeks after planting, the process of mounding soil around the plants will no longer be necessary. Smaller (new) potatoes can be dug from around the edges of the plant at this time. Harvest Potatoes take 90 – 110 days to fully mature and there is no other way to find out if they are ready other than to start digging. First, cut the vines down to the ground and then wait a week before digging them. Using a potato fork, start digging about 12 inches away from the plant and work in towards the tubers. Keep the tubers out of bright sunlight while gathering. Potato skins need to be “healed” after harvest and this can be accomplished by placing the tubers in a cool (48-60⁰F), dark area with high humidity for 2 weeks. After they are cured, they can be stored in a dark area with low humidity at temperatures of about 40⁰ F. Potatoes healed and stored this way can keep as long as 6 months. Seed Saving Save some of the highest quality but smallest tubers to store and plant next year. Plants produced by tubers are genetically identical to the parent plant which can keep your potatoes going indefinitely. Vegetables Arugula – Sow seed just beneath the surface of the soil beginning in early spring when a light frost is still possible. Make successive sowings every 23 weeks for a continuous supply of greens. Sow in a 3-4" strip, about 25-30 seeds per row foot. Plants can be harvested by pulling whole and trimming the roots, or by clipping individual leaves. Clipping individual leaves will allow the plants to re-grow new leaves. Artichoke – Start artichoke seed indoors 8 weeks before last frost. Plant seeds ¼” deep in pots and cover with ¼” vermiculite. Once seedlings are well established, transplant into individual pots. After danger of last frost, plant artichoke 3' apart in rows that are 4' apart. Artichoke can often be overwintered by cutting back to the main stalk leaving it approximately 810” tall and covering it with a thick layer of mulch or straw. Artichoke can produce for 5 years plus with proper care. Asparagus – Prepare an asparagus bed an entire season before planting. Begin by working aged manure or compost into the asparagus bed 6 – 8” deep. Sow asparagus seed indoors 12- 14 weeks before last frost. Sow 1 seed per pot ¾” deep. Germination temperature should be at 75 – 80° F during the day and 65°F overnight. Transplant asparagus seedlings into the prepared asparagus bed 2” deep and 12 – 18” apart. Keep asparagus beds well weeded and give regular feeding of compost. Remove any female plants when they establish their berries. Asparagus from seed will take approximately 2 -3 years of growth before producing harvestable stalks. Beans- Beans can be directly sown outdoors after the danger of frost has passed and the soil and air temperatures are warm. Plant seeds 1" deep and 2-3" apart in trellised rows 48" apart. Grow pole beans on fences or some other supporting structure. Pole beans will continue to produce abundantly throughout the summer if kept well picked. Beets - Beet seeds can be directly sown outdoors in early spring, 6-8 seeds per foot ½" deep in rows 24" apart. Soil temperature should be at least 40° F. Fall crops are also possible. Broccoli - Broccoli seeds need to be started indoors, planted ¼" deep in pots or flats 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Thin seedlings when they reach 2" tall and transplant to individual pots. Once seedlings are well established, transplant into the garden and space 24-30" apart in rows 36" apart when the weather is still cool and a light frost is possible. Broccoli Raab (rapini) – Sow broccoli raab seed directly into the soil in spring after the last frost. Plant seeds ½” deep and 2” apart in rows 20” apart. Once seedlings have developed, thin them down to 6” apart. Harvest broccoli raab as soon as flower buds form. Although not related to broccoli; broccoli raab takes on many of broccoli characteristics in flavor and texture. The leaves can be harvested and used like turnip tops and the florets make an excellent side dish steamed, braised, or sautéed. Cabbage - Cabbage seeds need to be started indoors, planted ¼" deep in pots or flats 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Thin seedlings when they reach 2" tall and transplant to individual pots. . Once seedlings are well established transplant into the garden and space 24-30" apart in rows 36" apart when the weather is still cool and a light frost is possible. Carrots - Sow seeds outdoors in early spring 3-4 weeks before the last frost or as soon as the soil can be worked. Sow seeds ¼" deep, 1 -2” apart in rows 32” apart. Keep rows well watered and weeded. Once seedlings are well developed thin them down to 4 -5” apart. Cauliflower - Cauliflower seeds need to be started indoors planted ¼" deep in pots or flats 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Thin seedlings when they reach 2" tall and transplant into individual pots. Plant seedlings outdoors 24-30" apart in rows 36"apart when a light frost is still possible. Celeriac – Plant celeriac the same as you would celery. Start seed indoors 10 – 12 weeks before last frost. Plant 4-5 seeds per pot by scattering seed on the soil surface then covering with a very thin layer of loose soil as celeriac seed needs light to germinate. Thin to 1 seedling per cell when plants are 1” tall. Transplant celeriac to the outdoors when night temperatures are consistently above 40⁰F and day temperatures are 55⁰F and above. Plant celeriac 8 -12” apart in rows 18” apart and keep the soil well watered. Celeriac loves a regular feeding of compost. Celeriac bulb has a similar taste to celery stalks but more potent. Very savory and unlike most root vegetables has very little starch. Celery – Start seed indoors 10 – 12 weeks before last frost. Plant 4-5 seeds per pot by scattering seed on the soil surface then covering with a very thin layer of loose soil as celery seed needs light to germinate. Thin to 1 seedling per cell when plants are 1” tall. Transplant celery to the outdoors when night temperatures are consistently above 40⁰F and day temperatures are 55⁰F and above 8 -12” apart in rows 18” apart. Keep celery well watered. Celery loves a regular feeding of compost. Collard Greens – Sow collard greens directly into the garden as soon as soil can be worked. Space collard greens 2” apart in rows 24” apart. Once seedlings are well established, thin them down to 15” apart. Collard greens can be harvested by trimming leaves as soon as leaves develop or harvest the whole plant. Collard Greens will provide edible leaves all season with continuous cutting. Corn - Sow corn seeds outdoors only after the danger of frost has passed. Sweet corn should be planted 2 weeks later than dent or flour corn. Sow seeds 1" deep every 3-4" in rows 3-4' apart. Thin the seedlings to 6-8" apart after they emerge and are well established. Corn should be planted in a 3-4 row block (instead of one long row) to ensure good pollination. Cucumbers - Sow 6-8 seeds outdoors 1" deep in 12" diameter hills spaced 6' apart each way a week after the last frost. Pinch off all but 3-4 of the strongest seedlings. Can also be grown in rows 5-6' apart with plants spaced 6" apart. Grow cucumbers on fences or some other supporting structure. Eggplant - Eggplant seeds need to be started indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Thin seedlings when they reach 2" tall then transplant into individual pots. Transplant outdoors 24" apart in rows 36" apart. Northern gardeners may want to use landscape fabric to increase the soil temperatures as eggplant grows best in warmer soils. Flax – Flax can be started indoors or direct seeded out in the garden (or field). If planted indoors; start seeds 5 weeks before last frost, ½” deep in pots. Plant flax 6” apart in the garden in narrow rows 6” apart. Thin the seedlings to 10 -12” apart when well developed. Harvest flax when 90% of the seed pods are browned in the fall. Garden Huckleberry – Start Garden Huckleberry indoors 4 -6 weeks before the last frost. Sow seeds 1/4” deep in pots. Transplant seedlings into the garden after last frost 10 -12” apart in rows 24” apart. Harvest after berries have turned black and have gone from a glossy hewn to dull. Garden huckleberry is delicious in pie with added sugar. Ground Cherries - Ground cherry seeds need to be started indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Thin seedlings when they reach 2" tall and transplant into individual pots. Transplant outdoors 24" apart in rows 36" apart. Culture is similar to tomatoes. Plants can be trellised or caged to keep them well contained, or the plants can be allowed to sprawl on the ground. Kale - Kale seeds need to be started indoors, planted ¼" deep in pots or flats 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Once seedlings are well established, transplant outdoors 24-30" apart in rows 36" apart while a light frost is still possible. Kohlrabi – Kohlrabi can be started indoors and transplanted to the garden or directly sown into the garden. If started indoors; plant seeds 4 weeks before the last frost. Sow seeds ¼” deep every 2” apart in rows 30” apart. Once seedlings are well established thin them down to 8” apart. Kohlrabi bulbs grow above the ground and are commonly used in salads and slaws. The leaves are similar in flavor to collard greens and kale. Kohlrabi is best when harvested around 60 days to avoid a woody texture. Lettuce - Direct seed just beneath the surface of the soil beginning in early spring when a light frost is still possible. Once seedlings are well established give each plant 6” of space in all directions. Avoid planting in the middle of summer. Lettuce can be harvested by pulling whole or clipping individual leaves. Melons - Sow 6-8 seeds outdoors 1" deep in 12" diameter hills spaced 6' apart each way when soil is warm. Pinch off all but 3- 4 of the strongest seedlings. Can also be grown in rows 5-6' apart with plants spaced 6" apart. Mexican Sour Gherkin (mouse melon) – Plant Mexican sour gherkin seeds directly into the soil when soil temperature is 65°F and air temperatures are 75°F above. Plant 6 – 8 seeds in 12” diameter mounds spaced 6' apart. Pinch off all but 4 -5 of the strongest seedlings when they are 3” tall. Mexican sour gherkin is very prolific and grows best trellised. Harvest when melons are the size of robin eggs. Can be pickled or eaten raw. Mustard Greens – Sow mustard greens directly into the garden as soon as soil can be worked. Plant seeds ½” deep every 3-4” apart in rows 18” apart. Once well established, thin the seedlings to 18 – 20” apart. Like collard greens, mustard greens can be harvested in as little as 2 -3 weeks and will provide a continuous harvest throughout the growing season. Mustard greens are also great container plants for indoor growing. Plant mustard greens for a spring and fall harvest. Okra - Sow okra seeds outdoors ½" deep and 6 – 8” apart in rows 32” apart. Okra does best in warm weather and full sun and well picked plants will offer a continuous yield. Onions - Sow onion seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before transplanting into the garden in flats ¼" deep and spaced 1" in all directions. A cutting of the onion greens at 4 weeks will strengthen the plant and offer a tasty addition to an early spring salad. Onions can be planted as soon as the soil can be prepared in the spring. Parsnip - Sow parsnip seed ½” deep directly into the garden when soil temperature reaches 45⁰F. Space 2” apart in rows 12” apart. Thin seedlings 8” apart when tops reach 2” tall. Parsnips are best when harvested after a frost. Parsnips store well in a cool dark place. Peas - Peas thrive in cool weather and can be sown as soon as the soil can be prepared in the spring. Direct sow seeds 1" deep with 3" between seeds in rows 24-36" apart. Climbing peas require support on fences or some other supporting structure. Peppers – Sow pepper seeds indoors, ¼" deep in pots or flats 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Thin seedlings when they reach 2" tall and transplant into individual pots. Once seedlings are well established transplant outdoors 24-30" apart in rows 36" apart when night time temperatures are above 50 F. Raddichio – Direct sow raddichio seed into the garden as soon as soil can be worked. Plant seeds 1/8” deep 2” apart in rows 20” apart. Planting raddichio in early spring and late summer will provide for an early summer and fall harvest. Raddichio is a leafy chicory and is often referred to as 'Italian Chicory'. Thick crisp leaves hold up well to a grill and the slight bitter taste of the leaf is also good cut into salads. The dried roots of this plant are delicious when mixed in with coffee. Radishes - Radishes thrive in cool weather and can be sown as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. Direct sow radish seeds 1" deep with 2" between seeds in rows that are 6-12" apart. For a continuous radish supply, sow more seeds every 1 - 2 weeks. Rhubarb - Start rhubarb seed indoors 8 weeks before the last frost. Plant seeds ¼” deep, 2-3 seeds per pot. Once seedlings are 6-8 weeks old and about 4” tall; plant in the garden about 36” apart. Rhubarb does well when planted against a fence or building or in rows that are 72” apart. Rhubarb from seed will take approximately 2 -3 years of growth before giving harvestable stalks. Salsify - Sow salsify seed ½” deep directly into the garden as soon as the soil can be worked. Space 1½” apart in rows 12” apart. Once seedlings are well established thin them down to 6” apart. Salsify can be left in the ground or pulled up and stored in a cool place like carrots and parsnips. To overwinter in the ground, cover with several inches of mulch or straw and harvest as needed. Spinach - Sow seeds outdoors ½" deep and 1" apart. Spinach prefers cool weather and should be planted early in the spring or in late summer to produce a fall crop. For best yield, harvest continually and make successive plantings every 2-3 weeks. Summer Squash - Summer squash seeds can be sown once the soil is warm, 1" deep every 6" in rows that are 5-6' apart. Thin the squash plants to 12" apart once the seedlings are well established. Sunflower - Sow seeds outdoors ½" deep and 6" apart in rows 24-36" apart after the last frost. Sunflowers thrive in full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Make successive plantings for continuous blooms. Swiss Chard - Swiss chard seeds can be directly sown outdoors in early spring, 6-8 seeds per foot ½" deep in rows 24" apart. Soil temperature should be at least 40⁰F. Fall crops are also possible. Tomatillos – Grow tomatillo the same as you would tomatoes. Sow seeds indoors ¼” deep in pots 6 – 8 weeks before last frost. Once seedlings are well established, transplant into the garden and space plants 24” apart in rows 48” apart. Tomatillos are very sturdy and require minimal staking. Harvest tomatillos when husks turn brown and fall off of the plant easily. Tomatillos are most commonly used to make Salsa Verde. Tomatoes - Tomato seeds need to be started indoors, planted ¼" deep in pots or flats 6 weeks before the last frost. Once tomato seedlings reach 2" tall, transplant into individual pots. Transplant outdoors 24-30" apart in rows 36" apart when night time temperatures are above 50 F. Turnip - Turnips thrive in cool weather and can be sown as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. Sow seeds ¼" deep with 2" between seeds in rows 6-12" apart. For a continuous supply, sow more seeds every 2-3 weeks. Virginia Peanut - To sow peanut seed split open the shell. Plant peanut 1 ½” deep, 4 seeds per hole spaced 18” apart in rows 24” apart. Water the soil regularly to keep the top 6” of soil moist. Once the seedlings are 2” tall, thin and keep only the most dominant plant in a hole. Keep plants 18” apart and well weeded. When the plants die off and turn yellow in the fall, dig plants from the ground leaving the peanuts attached. Dry the plants by hanging in a dry place with good airflow for 2 weeks before removing peanuts from the plant. Once removed, allow an additional 3-4 weeks of drying time in the shells. Watermelon - Sow 6-8 seeds outdoors 1" deep in 12" diameter hills spaced 6' apart each way when the soil is warm. Pinch off all but 3-4 of the strongest seedlings. Can also be grown in rows 5-6' apart with plants spaced 12" apart. Winter Squash - Sow 6-8 seeds outdoors 1" deep in 12" diameter hills spaced 6' apart each way when the soil is warm. Pinch off all but 3-4 of the strongest seedlings. Can also be grown in rows 5-6' apart with plants spaced 12" apart. Heirloom Solutions Growing Guide Glossary Annuals – Plants that have a one year life cycle. Seed – bloom –seed Biennial – Plants that usually live for two years only producing flowers and seed in the second year. Bulb – A plant stem that grows underground and has its own food supply. Compost – Decomposed organic matter used for amending the soil around garden plants. Cultivate – Preparing soil for planting by removing weeds, tilling and making other soil amendments. Deadhead – Cutting or pinching off flowers after they are done blooming to allow for new growth. Germinate – The process where the embryo within a seed becomes a seedling. Harden Off – Letting seedlings or plants grown indoors acclimate to outdoor growing conditions. Perennial – A non – woody plant that lives more than two years and that normally produce flowers each year. Rhizome –A plant stem that grows underground horizontally that new flower growth emerges from at different points along the stem. Scarification – Scratching or cutting the Testa (seed coat)to help facilitate germination. Stratification – Placing seed in a moistened rooting medium and keeping cold for a period of time to break seed dormancy. Thinning / Thin Out – Removal of smaller, weaker seedlings to allow room for the stronger plants to grow. This also allows more airflow between the plants which will help prevent disease. Transplanting - Moving a plant from one location to another. Tuber – A plant stem that grows underground that is round in shape that new flower growth emerges from at different points. Heirloom Solutions 2200 IL Rt. 84 Thomson, IL 61285 Toll free: 800-280-3465 Office: 815-259-0120 Fax: 815-902-0170