3621 - The International Examiner

Transcription

Celebrating 35 Years
The only non-profit API newspaper on the Westcoast
First and Third Wednesdays each month
PRSRT STD
U.S. POSTAGE
PAID
SEATTLE, WA
Permit No. 2393
The newspaper of the northwest Asian American Communities. Find your inspirAsian.
FREE EST. 1974 — SEATTLE VOLUME 36, NUMBER 21 November 4 - November 17, 2009
What’s Your Food Style?
Review our list to see if you’re A Green,
Comfort, Trendy, or a Hardcore Foodie p. 8-9
Happy Hour:
Eateries, Dive bars, and everything else:
Oui Like Gambas p. 7
www.iexaminer.org
Wine Not? p. 2
A Feast on the
Food Industry p. 6
Sustainable
Seafood p. 5
FOOD ISSUE
9 pages of community recipes, wine recommendations, history,
sustainability, effects from the economy, quickie eats, and food politics.
Cover art by Ryan Catabay, IE Creative Director
My Favorite
Recipes p. 10
IE EDITORIAL
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It’s our aay and
Holid Issue!
Winter special
Also, a ensive
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IE BOARD OF DIRECTORS
Heather Villanueva,
Interim President
Gary Iwamoto, V.P.
Arlene Oki
Ammara Hun
Angela Garbes
Cindy Domingo
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Diem Ly
editor@iexaminer.org
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Jon Crispala
advertising@iexaminer.org
ARTS EDITOR
Alan Chong Lau
iexaminer@iexaminer.org
BUSINESS MANAGER
Ellen Suzuki
finance@iexaminer.org
DEVELOPMENT OFFICER
Bely Luu
development@iexaminer.org
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Ryan Catabay
ryan@rytekgrafx.com
PRODUCTION DESIGNER
Abe Wong
iexaminer@iexaminer.org
WEBMASTER/IT SUPPORT
Landon Acohido
webmaster@iexaminer.org
CONTRIBUTORS
Huy X. Le
Nick Wong
Albert Shen
Hyeok Kim
My Tam Nguyen
Shalin Hai-Jew
Sian Wu
Amy Huang
Chris Paredes
Nina Huang
Vu Le
Alaric Bien
Vinh Do
Paul Kim
Collin Tong
International Examiner
622 S. Washington St.
Seattle, WA 98104
Tel: (206) 624-3925
Fax: (206) 624-3046
Web site: www.iexaminer.org
“Jagged Noodles” Columnist
Organic Food
is Overrated
BY HUY X. LE
IE Columnist
Someone told me I’ve
become “unhealthily chubby.” Unhealthily chubby!
That’s ridiculous! If I could
find the strength to get off
this couch, I’d waddle over
to the person and slap him.
But still, it does not hurt to
eat less carbs and more of
these colorful things that
the nutritionists call “vegetables.” Today
for dinner, I skipped the rice and pasta,
and instead had some scrambled tofu
and a hefty side of steamed broccoli and
red peppers. It was so healthy I nearly
couldn’t choke it all down. I’ve never
broken my college habits of eating ramen
and microwaved pasta. My body isn’t
used to nutrients.
It has been a struggle to eat healthier. People always say “eat healthier,
buy organic, buy local.” You know what,
organic, healthy stuff is expensive. When
you’re poor, you can’t spend 8 dollars
on a pint of organic blueberries at PCC.
That’s approximately 1 dollar a berry! No
wonder people in America are obese. Not
only is fast food like hamburger and fries
delicious, it’s also hecka lot cheaper than
organic broccoli.
I have some poor vegan friends who
spend nearly a half of their money monthly on food. “What!” I exclaimed, spitting
out a piece of organic pluot they fed me,
“You spend three Nintendo Wiis a month
just on food?” It boggles the mind. Their
point is that 8 dollars for a pint of organic
blueberries is totally worth it. “People
don’t spend enough on good food,” they
said, “in the natural order of things, food
that nourishes you should take priority. It’s
an investment.”
Are they right? Is this true? Ages ago,
most of people’s earnings were spent on
food. Now, with improvements in technology and economics, survival is not as
critical. We can focus on more important
things, such as leisurely activities and
material possessions; ensuring we get the
best food is secondary. But food is what
our bodies are made of, and we each
only have one, so doesn’t it deserve the
Wine Not?
A food blogger visits local restaurants
and offers her recommendations for wine
selections paired with Asian cuisine.
BY MY TAM NGUYEN
IE Contributor
My Tam H. Nguyen is a graduate from the Asian Pacific Islander Community
Leadership Foundation’s (ACLF) Community Leadership Program Class of 2008.
She works in community relations for the City of Seattle. Nguyen is launching
an ethnic food and community oriented blog focused around preserving heritage
and memories through food. You can view her blog at:
www.foodofthepeople.tumblr.com.
Gambas Japanese and
French Restaurant
2230 Third Ave Seattle, WA 98121
(206) 728-5092
Ganbat Puntsag was a lawyer before becoming a chef. With over thirty years of
culinary experience, Chef Puntsag pairs
his Japanese Izakaya and French dining
background into beautifully crafted plates
of familiar Japanese flavors and French inspired plating.
Recommendation:
Sushi sandwich with a 2007 Gruner Veltliner from Austria, a crisp delicate white
wine with spicy notes of pepper and citrus
flavors that balances the complexity and
spiciness of the tuna and layers of flavors
in the dish. Other dishes and wines of
note:
New style sashimi, seared salmon and
yellow tail in hot olive oil with capers,
kaiware, cilantro and daikon sprouts
with the 2007 Austrian Gruner Veltliner.
Gyono tataki, American Kobe beef served
raw with slightly seared edges, with house
tataki sauce and sesame and daikon radish, the well marbled beef, smokiness of
sesame and tanginess of
finely sliced purple onions
paired well with their spicy
house Pinot Noir.
Kaname Izakaya and
Shochu Bar
best nutrients money can buy? Have our
priorities been so awkwardly skewed that
future generations will look back and
laugh at us, the way that we look back
and laugh at the fact that women weren’t
allowed to vote and people thought disco
was cool?
Heck no! I left these backwoods hippie
friends of mine to their devices, shaking
my head at their primitive philosophy.
Flat-panel TV’s, trips to Jamaica, and
awesome video game systems—those are
priorities. Food? That’s just something
to keep you going so you could earn
enough money to buy more stuff to put
in your house. Truly the ignorant are
blessed. I feel bad for my friends because
their house doesn’t even have a TV. It just
makes me wonder what they stare at for
six hours a day while they sit on their
couch. The wall? “We prefer to read,”
they said. My God, the horrors they are
inflicting on their 4 year-old, who will
grow up not knowing the joys of “Law
and Order SVU”.
Really, this whole hype about organic
food really is just a fad. Like capitalism
and the Internet. I believe in a healthy
diet, and so I am going to eat more vegetables. And I encourage you to do the
same. But there’s no point spending five
dollars for a pound of organic broccoli
when you can get regular broccoli for 99
cents a pound. I’ve eaten tons of pesticide-flavored vegetables, and I haven’t
gotten cancer yet. This is irrefutable proof
that regular food is safe for consumption.
Let me know your thoughts on this. I
have to go call Child Protective Services.
Still hungry for Noodles? Visit Huy’s blog
at: Jaggednoodles.wordpress.com
a popular type of Japanese bento, comes
with an array of dishes including: rice,
miso soup, egg, salmon, tempura shrimp,
kushi katsu, nimono, sunonomo, sashimi
and california roll. It requires a smooth
pairing with this traditional medium-bodied crisp sake.
Wrap O Roll
925 S. Jackson Street, Seattle WA 98127
(206) 233-9001
www.twitter.com/WrapRoll
A seasoned Vietnamese restaurateur and
former club owner of Caesar’s Club, Lana
Tran converted Buu Dien, her Vietnamese
sandwich shop into a dine-in health- focused establishment with a clientele she
states is 90 percent non-Vietnamese.
Wrap & Roll has a full
shelf of wines and a menu
which ranges from the traditional escargot salad to
the wraps and rolls of her
new clientele.
Recommendation:
610 S. Jackson Street
A 2006 Sicilian Feudo
Seattle, WA 98104
Arancio Merlot with the
(206) 682-1828
escargot salad. A ruby red
www.kaname-izakaya.com
with purple highlights,
Kaname opened when
medium-bodied
with
there were no izakaya bars
spicy notes from the heat
in Seattle. Chef Todd Kuniof Sicily, with the escargot
yuki is passionate about his
salad: thinly sliced and
shochu and recommends
seasoned escargot so deliPhoto credit: My Tam Nguyen
the Satsuma Mura, a sweet
cate you’d almost think it
potato shochu, rather than wine to pair is geoduck, sliced rau muong (water spinwith Japanese food. Izakaya is a style of ach/ong choy), thinly sliced celery, onJapanese restaurants where alcohol is ions, carrots, daikon radish, topped with
served with small plates.
fried onions and a variety of mints. Other
dishes and wines of note: Duck noodle
Recommendation:
soup with Shiitake mushrooms, with 2007
Satsuma Mura Imojochu with Black Cod Columbia Winery Cellar Master’s Riesling
Kasuzuke. Other dishes and pairings of
note: Kaname Special Makunouchi with
WINE, Continued on Page 3
Karatamba “Dry” Sake. The makunouchi,
INTERNATIONAL EXAMINER
WINE, Continued from Page 2
Saigon Palms
101 SW 41st Street, Renton WA 98057
(425) 251-5033
www.saigonpalmsrestaurant.com
With a 120 year old Chickering piano, and
prime location en route
to Ikea, Andy
Lau’s family
is preserving
their family’s
legacy of restaurants since
the
1980s,
starting with
Saigon Palms restaurant interior in Andy’s
dad,
Renton, Wash.
Douglas Au,
who opened Wendy’s Vietnamese restaurant in Tacoma. Their chef, Phuong Nguyen, is working in collaboration with Don
Hoots, chef of Santa Monica’s Fairmont
Miramar hotel, to add more fusion dishes
to the menu in the coming months, including a seared Ahi tuna crab cake with
taro mashed potatoes wrapped with garlic
bok choy.
Recommendation:
A 2006 CMS Red Columbia Valley by
Hedges with the Bo Luc Lac. A Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah blend, a
spicy red with oaky taste and a great refined finish, matches well with the tender
marinated cubes of beef stir fried with bell
peppers and onions and a side of pickled
cabbage. Other dishes and wines of note:
Vietnamese styled honey walnut prawns
on cabbage slaw with 2006 Smoking Loon
Sauvignon Blanc from California, their
house white.
Kawali Grill
5300 Rainier Avenue South, Seattle WA
98118
(206) 723-6179
www.kawaligrill.com
Gerold Castro’s hospitality stems from his
many years as
executive chef at
the
downtown
Seattle
Hilton.
He is extending
this hospitality to
the Filipino and
Seattle community by serving the comfort foods of his
childhood, from oxtail kare kare to his
favorite, phinakbet. Castro has masterfully blended his hotel experience, from
the clean presentation of his plates to the
way he warmly greets guests. He wants his
customers to come in, relax, enjoy and get
out of the door feeling full and wanting to
come back for more.
Recommendation:
The 2008 Aquinas Chardonnay from Napa
Valley with Crispy Shrimp served with
green papaya relish and a roasted red pepper rémoulade. This chardonnay that has
won many awards with its creamy finish
and light citrus, herbs, and spicy flavors
with a touch of French Oak is a fresh counterpart to the red pepper rémoulade and
crunch of breaded shrimp. Other wines
and dishes of note: Pandan fried chicken
marinated in coconut and pandan leaves
coated with bread crumbs served with
stirfried veggies and crisp sheet of lumpia
skin also pairs well with the 2008 Aquinas.
Kalbi style short ribs with onion rings and
baby bok choy with a hoisin BBQ sauce
with a 2007 Cypress Vineyards Cabernet
Sauvignon.
To contact My Tam Nguyen,
e-mail iexaminer@iexaminer.org.
November 4 - November 17, 2009 —— 3
COMMUNITY NEWS
Gregoire appoints new director of
Commission on APA Affairs (CAPAA)
NAPCA ANNOUNCES
NEW PRESIDENT
Gov. Chris Gregoire announced Oct. 26 the appointment of Kendee Yamaguchi as the
executive director of the Washington State Commission on Asian Pacific American Affairs. Yamaguchi is a third-generation Japanese American born and raised in Washington. “She is an emerging leader who brings a solid record of legislative, legal, management and communications experience to the position,” Gov. Gregoire said. “I know
she will build and nurture strong relationships to ensure the needs of our Asian Pacific
American communities are met.” Yamaguchi was a director in the Office of Management and Administration at the White House. Prior to this position, she worked in the
Office of Public Liaison on the signing of the executive order establishing the President’s Advisory Commission on AAPIs. She worked as an attorney in private practice.
Yamaguchi earned a bachelor’s degree in political science and public communications
from American University. Yamaguchi also earned a juris doctorate from the Seattle
University School of Law. Yamaguchi’s appointment is effective Nov. 2nd.
After an extensive nationwide search, the
NAPCA Board of Directors named Christine
Takada, President and
CEO of the National
Asian Pacific Center
on Aging. Takada has
been serving as Interim
Christine Takada
President & CEO since
April. Board Chairman John Q. Duong stated, “Christine is
uniquely qualified having already served
as NAPCA’s national director of the Senior
Community Service Employment Program
(SCSEP), one of the core services provided
by NAPCA. Furthermore, Takada’s over
twenty years of public service experience
combined with her passion in serving
APA seniors reflect the strong dedication
that we desire in this position to carry out
NAPCA’s core mission.” Prior to her position as National Director of the Senior
Community Service Employment Program
(SCSEP) with NAPCA, Takada’s work experience consisted of public and non-profit
positions including Special Assistant to Illinois Governor Jim Edgar for Asian American Affairs, Public Member of the Illinois
Judicial Inquiry Board, Executive Director of the Asian American Alliance and
numerous Board positions including the
United Way of Chicago, the Asian American Institute and the Japanese American
Citizens’ League, Chicago Chapter. Takada
will begin her duties as NAPCA President
and CEO effective immediately.
JACL CALLS FOR HALT OF POWER LINE
THROUGH MINIDOKA NATIONAL
HISTORIC SITE
The National Youth/Student Council of the Japanese American
Citizens League (JACL NY/SC), the youth arm of the oldest and
largest Asian Paciﬁc American civil and human rights organization in the United States, calls upon Secretary Ken Salazar
of the United States Department of Interior and members of
Congress to revise plans for a power line which would run
through the Minidoka National Historic Site in Idaho. While
a power line can bring much-needed energy to the citizens of
Idaho and Nevada, the JACL NY/SC believes that the power
JAs arrive to the Minidoka in- line has the capability to permanently and negatively impact a
ternment camp in Idaho.
piece of America’s collective history. As descendants of nearly
120,000 people of Japanese ancestry who were forcibly interned in ten internment
camps and United States Department of Justice camps during World War II, the JACL
NY/SC feels strongly about preserving and protecting the integrity of those sites. The
Minidoka National Historic Site serves as a crucial reminder to all Americans of how
fragile our Constitution can be in times of crises, and that we must be vigilant and true
to the principles of our nation so that this episode is never repeated.
BANK OF AMERICA
AWARDS LOCAL
HEROES
On Oct. 27, the Bank of America awarded their Neighborhood Builder’s Award
to Neighborhood House, an organization that aims to alleviate poverty in our
housing and general communities in Seattle and King County. This award comes
with $200,000 in general agency support.
Mark Okazaki, the Executive Director,
commented to the IE, “We are honored
to be recognized for our work. In today’s
economic climate there is much that
needs to be done to make sure that the
most vulnerable in our community do
not slip farther into despair.” Thomas Kobayashi won the Local Hero award from
Bank of America. Kobayashi has been a
volunteer with St. Vincent De Paul for 73
years. He’s 93 now. He received $5,000
to donate to any organization.
4 —— November 4 - November 17, 2009
AROUND THE NATION
Chinese
Alternative
Medicine Lures
Many in a
Recession
Many patients who
can no longer afford health care are
flocking to local acupuncture clinics for
free Chinese medicine treatments, reports New America
Media. This year, the
number of walk-ins at the ACTCM Auricular Clinic, funded by American College of
Traditional Chinese Medicine, has nearly
doubled. During one four-hour session in
September, a record 71 patients walked
into the clinic, says a superviser. Since the
economic downturn, clientele has shifted
from low-income families, students and
homeless people to middle-class, white
and unemployed patients. According to
a clinic survey, nearly half of the patients
who visit the clinic are uninsured and
nearly all of the patients earned a monthly income of less than $2,400. A regular
check-up with a Chinese medicine practitioner can cost between $40 and $60,
and each packet of Chinese medicine is
approximately $5.
Equality California Hails Signing
of Federal Hate Crimes Law
Equality California, the largest statewide lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender-rights advocacy organization in California, hailed the signing of the Matthew Shepard and James
Byrd Jr. Hate Crimes Prevention Act, a federal law combating hate crimes against lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender (LGBT) individuals. Earlier this year, Equality California sponsored companion resolutions that call on the United States Congress to immediately pass and President Obama to sign the Matthew Shepard Act, which expands
the landmark 1969 United States federal hate crimes law to include crimes motivated
by a victim’s real or perceived gender, sexual orientation, gender identity and disability.
The federal bill is named after Matthew Shepard, the gay University of Wyoming student
who was targeted, tortured and brutally murdered by two men in 1998 because of his
sexual orientation.
Senator Inouye the third longestserving senator in U.S. history
It’s a landmark for the powerful lawmaker who has held a seat in
Congress for as long as Hawaii has been a state: 47 years. Daniel Inouye’s career has included being a member of the Watergate investigative committee in the 1970s, chairman of the Iran-Contra probe
in the 1980s, and current chairman of the Senate Appropriations
Committee. Inouye is the first Japanese American to serve in both
the Senate and House of Representatives. He took office the same
day the islands became a state 50 years ago, on August 21, 1959.
Senator Daniel Inouye
Three years later, he was elected to the Senate. With 17,095 days
in the Senate, Inouye trails only West Virginia Senator Robert Byrd and the late South
Carolina Senator Strom Thurmond in career longevity. But a recent issue is getting the
Senator negative attention. Sen. Inouye is reportedly considering altering a provision
in an amendment that would prevent the government from working with contractors
who denied victims of assault the right to bring their case to court. Defense contractors
say the amendment would leave them overly exposed to lawsuits and at risk of having
contracts dry up.
New Study: AAs Losing Out On
Government Contracts Nationally
A new study by UCLA researcher Dr. Paul Ong revealed that Asian Americans win
the fewest contracts when it comes to local, state and federal minority governmentcontracting programs. That finding and others were revealed to a group of Asian Americans who gathered in Atlanta for a “sneak peak” at Ong’s yet-to-be-published study.
“We were disappointed, but not surprised, to learn that disparity still exists across the
board,” said Aarathi D. Haig, staff attorney at Asian American Justice Center (AAJC).
“While some progress has been made, racial discrimination unfortunately is still alive
and well.” AAJC commissioned the study, which focused on government contracting
in the San Francisco, Chicago and Atlanta metropolitan areas. Among the findings are:
Korean Americans have the highest self-employment rate among Asian Americans but
still do not earn as many dollars as their non-Hispanic white counterparts; and racial
discrimination has created a significant barrier for Asian American entry into social
networks, where contracting deals often originate and close.
Immigrants Comprise Nearly OneQuarter of U.S. POPULATION
The U.S. Census Bureau recently released data on the Latino population of the United
States that underscores the extent to which the immigrant experience is embedded in
the social (and political) fabric of the United States in three important ways: Nearly one
out of every four people in the United States in 2008 was either an immigrant or the
child of an immigrant; Immigrants who are naturalized U.S. citizens (and entitled to
vote) accounted for 5 percent of the total U.S. population in 2008; Two-in-five immigrants came to this country before 1990 and therefore have deep U.S. roots. More than
one-third of Latino immigrants came to the United States prior to 1990.
Manslaugter
conviction
for pushing
fisherman into
lake
Last week, a Cook
County jury convicted 33-year-old John
Haley of involuntary
manslaughter for Du
Doan’s death. Doan is
the 62-year-old VietJohn Haley
namese man who was
shoved into Lake Michigan and drowned
to death in Chicago two years ago. Prosecutors implored jurors to convict Haley
of murder, saying they shouldn’t buy his
excuse that when he pushed Doan into
the water, he did it for a joke and didn’t
know the man could not swim. But on late
Oct. 23, the jury announced a guilty verdict for involuntary manslaughter. Haley
faces a sentence of 2 to 5 years in prison,
though the range could be extended to
up to 10 years because he has a previous
drug conviction.
Architects,
Consultants
& Contractors
KCLS Library Contract
Information Available Online!
www.kcls.org/buildings
Information about KCLS construction and
the latest available details on current and
pending projects.
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t
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t
t
Requests for Proposals
Requests for Qualifications
Current Project Bid Listing
Call for Art Proposals
Site Selection Policy
Announcements of Finalists
Community Meetings
Contacts
New Releases
The King County Library System recognizes
strength and value within our communities,
and we encourage all interested and qualified
service providers to review our public bid
construction opportunities.
Contact Kelly Iverson
Facilities Assistant
kiverson@kcls.org or 425.369.3308
IE NEWS
A Personal Take on the History of
Asian American Cuisine
By Shalin Hai-Jew
IE Contributor
Shalin Hai-Jew works as an instructional designer at Kansas State University.
She has a book forthcoming from Information Science titled “Digital Imagery and
Informational Graphics in E-Learning: Maximizing Visual Technologies”
in November 2009.
Living again in the Midwest, I am hardpressed to find a few good restaurants
serving my favorite comfort foods: chicken chow fun noodles, various assortments
of dimsum, and Chinese broccoli. What
passes as Asian American food in multiple
Midwestern states is a very bland sushi,
cheese-topped baked mussels, fake crabmeat doused in mayonnaise, and biscuits
baked around wieners at all-you-can-eat
establishments.
The History of Asian American Fare
Asian foods were first introduced to the
US with the arrival of Chinese laborers in
the 1850s to California, and most of their
creations were consumed
by the male migrant
laborers in their ghettos.
This cuisine became more
popularized in the 1920s
among Jazz Age cosmopolitan youth. However,
it wasn’t until World
War II that Chinese and
Japanese foods entered
the mainstream. Then, in
the 1970s, the influx of
Vietnamese, Hmong, and
other Southeast Asians
introduced yet other peoples’ food traditions to
the US.
The website, Asian
Nation
(asian-nation.
org) separates the various
Asian food origins into larger regions. The
southwest style includes foods from India,
Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Burma (described
as flat breads, kebabs, mutton, rice and
beans). The northeast tradition stems
from China, Korea, and Japan—with a
focus on rice, meat stir-fried with vegetables, stews, and various raw fish. The
southeast style hails from Thailand, Laos,
Cambodia, Vietnam, Indonesia, Malaysia,
Singapore and Brunei (for example, stirfried, steamed, or boiled foods seasoned
with herbs and citrus juices).
The foods of a place and a people
evolve from the local wild animals and
crops, domesticated food animals and
crops, the local climates, and human
ingenuity. Foods are prepared in numerous ways—roasted, boiled, baked, stirfried, steamed, or left raw—after various
preparations with sauces, cuts, and intermixing of ingredients. People’s palates are
informed by their childhood foods and
food experiences and then their sense of
adventure as they are further exposed to
the world.
The Americanization of Asian Fare
The Americanization of the traditional
Asian diets has resulted in the infusion of
more meats, deep fried foods, and food
colorings into the various dishes. Some
menus in restaurants offer Americanized
dishes for those who speak English but
offer more traditional fare to those who
speak the local language or know to
request particular foods.
High delicacies—those with medical
potency, unusual flavors,
elusive
ingredients—
never appear on any
menus. These would
include stewed brain,
deer antlers, shark’s fin,
bird’s nest, and ginsengbased stews, for example. Other dishes which
would not appear would
likely be those that would
not directly appeal to the
mainstream palate—like
cooked loaves of fat,
sliced thin, and topped
with spices; deep-fried
frogs;
syrup-covered
deep-fried bananas; stirfried silkworm larvae;
bean-filled lollipops, or
shapeless Northern Chinese-style baozi.
Those who travel to Asian countries
would be hard-pressed to find similar fare
in their restaurants or street food vendors.
While the Asian Food Pyramid from the
USDA and HHS shows more of a focus
on primary foods such as rice and noodles
and vegetables, with meat eaten more
rarely, Asian American diets have aligned
with the mainstream American ones sufficiently to change the health effects of
the larger consumption of high calories,
animal meats and fats, and sugars.
While traditional meals were occasions
for socializing, ceremonial events, and
business meetings (think of feasts and hotpots), the Asian American approach has
involved fewer interactions, as a reflection
of a more individualistic and less communal lifestyle. The focus on efficiencies in
American fast-food preparation has meant
a greater use of pre-packaged foods. The
focus on value has resulted in the increasing amount of food portions.
The federal focus on food safety means
that few of the vibrant street foods found
at vendors and open-air markets throughout Asia exist stateside.
Also, inventive Western cooks have
made foods that have little tie-in to actual
formal cuisines of Asian countries. There
are widespread mentions of how fortune
cookies came from Japan, not China.
“Chop suey” is a Western creation of
odds-and-ends, not something that typical
Chinese would go to a restaurant to eat.
Many adaptations may be localized ones
and are influenced by the backgrounds of
the various cooks.
Jennifer 8 Lee, author of “The Fortune
Cookie Chronicles”, makes the point
that there are numerous types of fusion
Chinese food that she encountered in her
around-the-world search for Chinese food
for her book: French-, Italian-, British-,
West Indian-, Jamaican-, Middle Eastern-,
Mauritian-, Indian-, Korean-, Japanese-,
Peruvian-, Mexican-, Brazilian- and other
cultural amalgams.
Fusion Asian American Cuisine
Fusion refers to the combination of
culinary traditions. While these approaches were initially more common in highend chi-chi restaurants, Asian American
fare has been a favorite for such mixing
and matching. Now, such practices have
become much more popularized in populist restaurants and even in airport eateries and the frozen-food aisle of the local
grocery stores.
Different types of rice (and flavors
of rice) may be integrated into sushi.
Northern-style flavored meats are used for
the Southern influenced dimsum. Salads
are topped with a nori-topping and misoinfluenced dressing.
Fusion itself is all about mix-andmatch based on the chefs’ inspirations
and diners’ palates.
There are deep-fried salmon rolls
dipped in Chinese hot-mustard sauce.
Lamb basted in hot Korean spices. Jiaozi
dumplings filled with seafood mixtures.
Spring rolls filled with crabmeat. Fusion
cuisine is about mixing and matching.
What fuses well then is a matter of taste
and aesthetics.
I “fuse” (as an amateur) at home when
I mix ingredients for different effects (or
because I don’t have the core ingredients
at home). And my Pacific Northwest palate has been honed well to the nuances
of Asian American fare, so when I come
across an interesting mix (mix-up?) at a
local Midwestern eatery, I have to remember where I am and call it good (and
maybe call it “local fusion”).
To contact Shalin Hai-Jew,
Sustainable
Seafood
Help heal the seas—starting with your own plate.
BY SIAN WU
IE Contributor
Sian Wu has been covering environment, human rights and politics
for the International
Examiner for seven
years. As her day job,
she works at a communications firm specializing in environment and public health
issues. You can reach her at sianwu@
yahoo.com.
Photo credit: McPig, www.flickr.com/photos/mcpig.
Unagi, uni, abalone, sea cucumber,
chilled jellyfish, the list goes on. Asian
cuisine features some of the most diverse
(some may say strange) seafood on its
menus. Yes, serve me the whole fish, and
fry those spot prawn heads for later! Yet,
how many times have you bitten into that
piece of tuna sashimi, with a twinge of
guilt?
“Where did this fish come from? Are
all those headlines about the oceans in
crisis really true?”
Convenience and just plain hunger
urge us to finish our meal despite the internal guilt trip, but making seafood sustainable remains a complex and urgent issue
that looms like a cloud over our future—
and our dinner plates. Between 1950
and 1994, ocean fishermen increased
their catch 400 percent by doubling the
number of boats and using more effective
fishing gear. Worldwide, fisheries throw
away about 25 percent of what they
catch as bycatch, including dolphins, sea
turtles and seals. Will our oceans be able
to stand up to the enormous pressures
we have put on them? Will our insatiable
appetite for seafood ever wane?
To play our part means learning more
about where our seafood comes from,
how it was caught or raised, and learning
the difference between “good seafood”
and “bad seafood.” The Monterey Bay
Aquarium puts out a Seafood Watch
Pocket Guide (including a sushi version)
which lists various kinds of seafood, and
SEAFOOD, Continued on Page 6
Sub-Sandwiches in the style of: Teriyaki, BBQ, Asian Ham, Roast Beef, Honey Ham
Turkey, Satay, Pork Chop,Tofu, Hamburger Steak, Lemon Grass, Curry, and Tom Yum.
Also available:
Rice Dishes, Vermicelli Dishes,
Salads, Noodle Soup
Order To-Go
419. 6th Ave S. Seattle WA. 98104. (206) 682-1267 • Across the street from the Post Office
$3.99
IE NEWS
A Feast on
the Food
Industry
The economic crisis
has a starving effect
on APIA restaurant
owners and workers.
BY NICK WONG
IE Contributor
Nick Wong is a
graduate from
the University of
Washington and is
now a professional
nobody. He also likes
to watch fish swim.
These days eating out is considered a
luxury. With our pockets slashed in the
midst of an economic recession, “eating
in” becomes more frequent, and “dining out” a rare occasion. But how does
it affect the other side of things? From
family-owned businesses to corporate eateries, restaurant owners to restaurant servers, the food industry has seen a drastic
downsizing in recent years. In an industry
dependent on consumer incomes, as our
own paychecks go down, theirs do as
well.
“Percentage wise, [the economic crisis] has affected me pretty noticeably,”
says Jason Luke, a server at a local waterfront restaurant. “I make just enough. I
wouldn’t say I’m struggling, but I’m not
comfortable.”
Luke has worked in the food industry
for nearly a decade, assuming almost
every position in the business, anywhere
from the backroom dishwasher to assistant manager. But despite the smaller
paycheck, Luke isn’t too worried, as his
seniority safeguards his employment.
SEAFOOD, Continued from Page 5
him the respect of the local community, which has been crucial
to his business surviving over the
past decade. But while Ung has
weathered incredible adversity,
such as the traumas of the mid-70s
Cambodian killing fields, and the
difficulties of starting a business as
an immigrant, the recent economic downturn presents yet another
obstacle.
“There are a lot of people cautious. They don’t spend much
money now,” says Ung. “Before we
used to get constant business, but
now, not so much.”
However, the Noodle House
owner isn’t worried. He says business is still “enough to pay our
own,” and he learned to cut costs
by employing family members,
Sam Ung, owner of Phnom Penh Noodle House in Seattle’s Chi- including himself; he acts as the
natown, poses in front of his ‘Wall of Fame’. Amongst the photos restaurant’s head chef, working from
is one of him and 2007 Nobel Peace Prize receipient Al Gore. open to close; a total of roughly 13
Photo credit: Nick Wong.
hours a day.
But others haven’t been so fortunate,
But while working within a family
such as one immigrant server that found business may be acceptable in Asian
herself without work when her former cultures, a venture into the food industry
employer went under. Once working at a outside a family business is not viewed
successful Japanese restaurant, she found favorably, according to Jason Luke.
her flexible part-time schedule convenient
“Asian families want their kids to
for other responsibilities, such as caring go to college to be engineers,” says the
for her young son. Unfortunately, the res- 29-year old server, who left his family’s
taurant couldn’t stay afloat in response to restaurant to find his own occupational
consumers trimming their budgets.
independence. “When I tell them that
After losing her job, she looked for I’m a waiter, they always ask if I’m doing
other opportunities in the food industry, something else, like a degree; the whole
but reported that most restaurants are cut- stereotypical thing.”
ting labor, not adding on. However, she
Regardless of age, gender, job title,
still remains hopeful as she cites her key immigrant, non-immigrant, family busijob candidacy advantage: her ability to ness or corporate-owned, the economic
speak English—an attribute she encour- crisis did not discriminate in taking a
ages other immigrants to attain.
huge bite out of not only the food indusSam Ung, owner of the Phnom Penh try, but of all jobs in general. And because
Noodle House in Seattle’s International of this, Luke is now able to shrug off those
District, takes that advice to another level. past criticisms, as he argues, “In this
The multilingual entrepreneur speaks a economy, you’re lucky to have a job.”
variety of languages, including three dialects of Chinese, Vietnamese, Cambodian To contact Nick Wong,
and English. His ability to communicate e-mail iexaminer@iexaminer.org.
with people of many backgrounds earned
Dine and Dash
Asian cuisine has adapted to the instant
gratification many of today’s diners expect. Here
is a compilation of local restaurants dishing up
quick eats for those on-the-go.
BY AMY HUANG
IE Contributor
Sub Sand
419 6th Avenue S
(between Jackson St & Jefferson St)
Seattle, WA 98104
With crispy
and toasted
sub-sandwiches with
regular condiments,
Sub Sand
offers a variety of toppings that
entices our
sweet and spicy taste buds. An order
of the barbeque pork sandwich
includes a pile of dai-kon, freshly
stripped carrots, cilantro, choice of
onion and a special in house sauce
topped with jalapeño juice and pepper. While Sub Sand can tailor to
traditional Vietnamese flavored meat like
lemon grass chicken, customers can also
enjoy a range of mainstream choices like
hamburger steak and turkey. “We started
out with Vietnamese sandwiches, said
Tom Dang, owner of Sub Sand. “And
then we expanded to be cross-cultural
so we can combine all the best things
into one-of-a-kind.” Each sandwich is
perfectly constructed to create a tower
of fresh ingredients strategically piled on
top of one another—providing fulfilling
bites each time. Other than sandwiches,
Dang also offers other suggestions. “The
satay beef rice noodle and the Look Luck
(Pan Fried) beef fried rice are one of the
best items on our menu.” Located in the
International District across the street
from the post office and near the bank,
Sub Stand is perfect for working people
on short crunch -time lunch breaks.
Unicorn Crepes
421 6th Ave S
(between Jackson St & Jefferson St)
Seattle, WA 98104
A French delight with
a Japanese twist. Unicorn Crepes’ menu
offers a hot, savory
section with choices
like tuna, ham and
chilidog. Suggested
by one of the crepe
makers, the Okanomiyaki savory crepe will
fulfill the lunchtime crave. With eggs,
ham, shredded cabbage and added
cheese, Okonomiyaki leaves a simmering seared and grilled flavored taste. To
satisfy the sweet sensation, customers
can binge on choices of fresh fruit like
strawberries, banana or blue berries
stuffed with custard, pudding, daifuki
(tiny mochi balls) or ice cream. Watch
as a scoop of batter is melted into a paper-thin layer on top of the griddle as it
heats into a golden- brown color. Like
eating ice cream, Unicorn Crepes will
roll crepes into a paper that allows the
eater to peel as they bite further and further. Right on the corner of 6th Avenue
in the International District, Unicorn
DASH, Continued on Page 7
tells you which to avoid, which are good
alternatives, and which are best choices.
“We’re now working with large food
service organizations, who want to work
within our guidelines—consumer demand
is behind that,” says Alison Barratt of the
Monterey Bay Aquarium. “Ideally we
wouldn’t need a pocket guide because
everything would be certified with a
label, but until that happens, we’re going
to keep asking these questions.”
The Marine Stewardship Council’s rigorous third party certification program
evaluates fisheries on their sustainability and environmental impacts. “There
is market incentive for fisheries to enter
the voluntary certification program and
carry the MSC ecolabel, especially given
the surge in major retail, food service and
other global seafood businesses making a
commitment to source MSC-certified seafood,” says Kerry Coughlin in the MSC’s
Seattle regional office.
Here are some tips on how to
make a difference in our oceans:
1. Ask restaurants where seafood comes
from, and keep asking if you don’t get
an answer. The more people ask where
the seafood comes from, the more likely
they’ll want to come back with a good
answer.
2. The smaller the fish, the better. Smaller
fish are lower on the food chain, have
fewer contaminants and are quicker to
reproduce. Instead of making a tuna sandwich, try mackerel, sardines or herring.
3. Make your seafood at home—you’ll
have a better idea of where it came from,
whether it be at local seafood markets, or
straight from the docks.
4. Pick up the check. You can do the ordering, and make the most sustainable
choices.
5. If you really can’t resist the bad stuff,
make a donation to an ocean conservation group. Consider it like buying “ocean
credits.” Some local groups are: Seadoc
Society, People for Puget Sound, Northwest Straits Commission.
6. Support the long-term solution: Marine
Protected Areas are underwater parks that
give the ocean’s fisheries a chance to recover, and repopulate the seas. Efforts are
underway right now to implement them in
California and Oregon.
Some to Avoid
(and there are others):
• Bluefin tuna—it’s severely overfished,
and has high mercury levels. Sea turtles,
sharks and seabirds all get entangled due
to catching bluefin.
• Yellowtail (or hamachi)—Their facilities spread disease and pollution, and rely
heavily on using wild fish for feed.
• Freshwater eel (or unagi)—Juveniles are
taken from the wild and then farm-raised,
putting pressure on wild populations.
About 90 percent of eel sold in the U.S.
is farmed.
• Shark fin soup—A third of open ocean
sharks are now threatened with extinction.
As top predators, they serve an important
function in balancing out complex marine
ecosystems.
• Farmed
salmon—Farming
salmon
spreads diseases and parasites to wild
salmon, which are threatened.
Learn more about Seafood Watch at
http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/
cr/seafoodwatch.aspx. Research which
fisheries are certified at www.msc.org.
To contact Sian Wu,
IE NEWS
DASH, Continued from Page 6
Crepes is convenient for those wanting
a hot lunch, a mid-day snack or dessert
after dinner.
Rice n’ Roll
828 Rainier Ave. S.
Seattle, WA 98144
With several
locations
around the
greater Seattle Area,
the Rice n’
Roll located
on Rainier Ave S. offers a much more
convenient route because of its drivein service. Reminiscent of a Dick’s
Drive-Thru, Rice n’ Roll on Rainier Ave
provides great parking space and an atmosphere that makes customers want
to stand along the counter tops for a
friendly conversation. Although Rice
n’ Roll reflects many Japanese sushi
choices like the California, Spicy Tuna
or the Rainbow, the restaurant infuses
other Asian flavors like the Bulgogi roll,
a Korean-style marinated beef with lettuce and carrot. Or, the Thai Chicken
roll marinated with Thai sauce. To create its local niche, Rice n’ Roll offers
the Seattle roll with salmon, the Bellevue roll with spicy hamachi and its very
own Rainier roll with spicy scallop.
Rice n’ Roll offers bento combos that
come with crunchy edamame (green
soybeans) and soup. Or, order a hot
rice bowl with the vegetarian tofu option and seafood choices with grilled
eel or Chirashi (assorted fish and vegetable).
Shilla BBQ
(Inside Uwajimaya’s food court)
517 S Weller St
Seattle, WA 98104
Located at a
popular lunchtime hot spot
inside Seattle’s
Uwajimaya
food
court,
Shilla BBQ is not only quick but provides a restaurant-esque appeal inside
a bustling food court. With less than a
ten-minute wait, Shilla BBQ is an immediate fix for a hot meal with Korean
cuisine. Best during a chilly, rainy or
cold Seattle day, Shilla’s menu includes
spicy options that can warm bellies including their Kim Chee fried rice, Hwae
Naem Yung (spicy buckwheat noodles)
and Mae Woon Tang (spicy seafood
casserole). All have different levels of
spiciness that can lead to nose running
and tongues tingling. For a simpler and
lighter meal, try their beef dumpling
stew or hot Kim Chee tofu soup.
University Teriyaki
4108 University Way NE
Seattle, WA 98105
Fast and affordable foods
are the best
combinations
for busy college students.
Not a far walk
from University of Washington’s main campus, University Teriyaki sit conveniently on the
“Ave.” Mostly catering to UW students,
University Teriyaki finds its rush hour
from early noon to late 2 o’clock sit-ins.
Happy Hour: Eateries, Dive
bars, and everything else
University Teriyaki is like a teriyaki joint
with the usual beef, pork and chicken
choices that offers spicy options as well.
Or, customers can opt for the Yakisoba
or chicken katsu. The other half of the
restaurant’s menu offers Korean dishes—with staples like bi bim bap, kalbu
and bulgogi. Korean and Japanese food
served under one-roof—convenient for
students to switch taste buds from time
to time. Usually, an order comes with a
side salad, two scoops of rice and a pile
of their entrée choice.
Seattle Deli
225 12th Ave S
Seattle, WA 98144
A quick drop-by
at Seattle Deli
equals a onestop shopping
for Vietnamese
hot meals, appetizers including $2 spring
rolls, steamed
hum-baos, packaged desserts and even
bubble tea. In the International District
between S. Jackson and E. Yesler Way,
Seattle Deli embodies a small market
with food grabs for the whole family. For
convenience, the Banh Mi (Vietnamese
sandwiches) is always a popular choice
with four options: the bbq pork, grilled
chicken, meat combination with Vietnamese pork sausage and an assortment
of cold-cuts or a vegetarian choice of
tofu. Try Seattle Deli’s pre-cooked hot
dishes ranging from fried rice, vermicelli
noodles, to vegetable stir-fry with broccoli and green beans, to deep fried fish
and meat cutlets. Seattle Deli also offers Vietnamese coffee with condensed
milk. Try their pre-packaged desserts
with coconut sticky rice and colorful
flour cakes and puddings. Remember to
bring cash only!
Marination Mobile
Location Varies
Dubbed to be Seattle’s “sauciest food
truck,” Marination Mobile is the newest trend for Korean-Hawaiian cuisine
on the curb. Currently, their usual spots
include the SODO District, Interbay/
Magnolia, Fremont, Beacon Hill, West
Seattle and Safeco Field or follow them
on Twitter to see where they are invited
to host events. The cheapest dish on the
menu is their $2 tacos—serving two tortillas with four choices: kalbi (tendered
short ribs), pork, miso ginger chicken
or tofu. Topped with their tangy sauce
and signature slaw, the tacos are quick
and very affordable. Or, try their Kimchi Rice Bowl or Kimchi Quesadilla that
will leave taste buds jumping from the
jalapenos. Marination Mobile started in
the summer of 2009.
To contact Amy Huang,
Oui Like
Gambas
A Japanese-French
inspired restaurant
boasts regulars who
savor and share their
last morsels.
BY CHRIS PAREDES
IE Contributor
Gamba’s is a relatively new Japanese
and French restaurant, located in the
heart of Seattle’s Belltown neighborhood.
Because its located next to a bar and
across the street from a park, Gamba’s
Owner and chef Gamba Puntsag.
gets a lot of foot traffic. But once you set
Photo credit: My Tam Nguyen.
foot into Gamba’s warm setting, there’s a
sense of intimacy.
an intimate conversation with [calming]
The atmosphere is enhanced because music playing in the background. The
the Mongolian owner, Gamba Puntsag, presentation of the food is artful and
who is also the main cook from time to intentional like the inside of the restaurant
time, steps out of the kitchen to personal- itself.
ly greet restaurant patrons. Jon LaPierre, a
Even the menus are easy on the eyes.
regular, says he loves that about the place. LaPierre says the menu is different from
“Gamba will come out and see how you that of other places. “It doesn’t have
are doing. He really cares...I like that and everything. We went to this other restauthe ridiculously cheap happy hour.”
rant where they had a menu as thick as a
During Happy Hours, sushi rolls are book...it was overwhelming.”
about a dollar or so, and
drinks such as beer and sake
cost $4 or less. Some of
the other items, such as the
15-item sampler, which normally runs about $25, are
half-off. The meals are sizeable and not just because
you get more rice or sides
added. You’ll definitely get
more fish than rice on your
sushi and more meat than
sides such as potatoes or
fries on other items.
In addition to having an
inexpensive and plentiful
Happy Hour, Gamba’s has
A Gamba sampler dish. Photo credit: Chris Paredes.
a long Happy Hour, running
from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. on weekdays and
Puntsag will also make other items,
all day Saturdays.
upon request.
Currently, construction on Bell Street,
“Having too many items can make it
which lies just north of Gamba’s, has cut difficult to choose...(and) I don’t want to
visibility of the restaurant, open for less have the same menu as everyone else,”
than a year. According to Puntsag, the says Puntsag.
construction truck is left just outside his
door even though his street isn’t being Gamba is located on 2230 3rd Ave. Seattle,
worked on.
WA 98121. Aside from dining in, Gamba’s
LaPierre says he and his girlfriend, Ines also delivers and caters.
Tjandra, first decided to try the Japanese
eatery when they were across the street at To contact Chris Paredes,
the park and saw the sign outside for $1
sushi. “That was months ago and now
we’re regulars - we come at least once or
twice a week.”
LaPierre and Tjandra say the restaurant
vibe allows them to get to know other
patrons and try different sushi. Tjandra
says the first time they ate at Gamba’s, a
customer offered them a bit of her meal,
the Dynamite roll.
“I get it all the time... everytime we
come, there’s always someone offering
someone else the last bit of their meal and
people get to try new things that way.”
The wooden floors and dark colors
inside Gamba’s are offset by the colorful
pictures on the wall. It’s easy to forget you
are in downtown Seattle. While Puntsag
prepares the food, you can watch TV on
a big screen on one of the walls or enjoy
IE NEWS
BY NINA HUANG
IE Contributor
Nina Huang graduated from the University of Washington with
a degree in journalism. She has a passion for writing, loves
watching movies and her favorite animals are dogs and pandas.
What’s Your Food Style?
Everyone appreciates food in their own way. Some
prefer that their eats are locally-grown and organic,
while others enjoy nostalgic, comfort food. Which
ever your preferences
are, you’ll find your gastronomic haven among
these chart-toppers.
Green Foodie
For this category, we searched
Seattle-area
eateries with
an emphasis on
locally-grown
ingredients, “green” practices
and eclectic dishes.
Loving Hut
1226 S. Jackson St.,
Seattle WA 98055
(206) 726-8669
www.lovinghut.us/seattle
Loving Hut, recently
opened in Seattle’s Little
Saigon, is one of many
chain restaurants in the
United States and Asia.
The restaurant was created with the vision for addressing climate change.
Owner, Dr. T. Campbell also wanted to start
the chain to spread the vegetarian “solution”
and promote peace and harmony. The idea
was inspired by a spiritual teacher named
Supreme Master Ching Hai. The vegan cuisine features different Asian dishes as well
as American foods such as hamburgers and
tacos.
Sutra
1605 N 45th St
Seattle, WA 98103-6701
(206) 547-1348
www.sutraseattle.com
Ninety-five percent of the ingredients used
at Sutra, in Wallingford, is locally-sourced.
Co-owner Amber Tande says the restaurant
serves an “interesting kind of food.” The restaurant has a pre-fixed menu that changes
weekly and is created by Tande’s husband,
Collin Patterson. His vegetarian-style dishes
combine flavors from East Asia, India, Africa
and other countries. Tande also mentioned
that the restaurant is unique for their multiple layering of flavors and textures.
Joule
1913 N 45th St.
(206) 632-1913
www.joulerestaurant.com
Joule, in Wallingford,
serves a variety of foods
but are self-described
as “eclectic American.”
“What people eat in
America right now is a
mix of different flavors,”
says co-owner Rachel
Yang. Visitors can find unique combinations of flavors that they won’t see anywhere
else in Seattle. Some popular dishes are the
smoked tofu with honshimeji confit and soy
truffle vinaigrette or the bison hanger steak
with garlic chive chimichurri and preserved
garlic. At the Korean-French-American restaurant, people get to explore and have fun
with food, Yang said.
Trendy Foodie
For the adventurous and hipster crowd who
believe atmosphere is as important as the
food, check out these excellent eateries!
Wann Izakaya
2020 2nd Ave.
Seattle, WA 98121
(206) 441-5637
www.wann-izakaya.com
Wrap O Roll
925 S Jackson St
Seattle, WA 98127
(206) 233-9001
twitter.com/WrapROLL
Comfort Foodie
Located
in
Little Saigon,
Quan Nguyen
opened
the doors to
Wrap O Roll
last July. Given the restaurant name,
visitors can
“wrap
and
roll”
their
own spring
rolls with meat, veggies, and rice paper. Or,
staff can wrap the rolls for you. But, spring
and summer rolls aren’t the only dishes on
the menu. Nguyen says they also serve the
basic traditional Vietnamese dishes as well,
such as Vietnamese noodle soup (pho), a
spicy beef noodle soup (bun bo hue) and
vermicelli dishes.
Some of us are
sentimental and
nostalgic and
ask for nothing
more than our
mama’s cooking. For a dining experience
with comfort, visit these spots
that will leave you satisfied.
Kaname Izakaya
610 S Jackson St
Seattle, WA 98104
(206) 682-1828
www.kaname-izakaya.com
Kaname Izakaya, located in the International District, has been open for two years.
The owner, Todd Kuniyuki, who is usually
working in the kitchen, said the restaurant’s
concept is an atmosphere where friends can
gather to enjoy Japanese street food together. Their happy hour specials are especially
popular as well as their ramen noodles. They
also have a variety of shochu cocktails with
a full bar.
Kawali Grill
5300 Rainier Ave S
(206) 723-6179
www.kawaligrill.com
Chef Gerold Castro started the Kawali Grill,
a casual Filipino restaurant located in the
Rainier Valley in August of 2007. Castro
called his food, “cuisine comfort food” that
includes lots of seafood, stews and noodles.
The restaurant not only serves traditional
Filipino food for breakfast, lunch and dinner but also American staple foods. “Filipino
FOODIE, Continued on Page 10
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Wann Izakaya is a restaurant chain in Japan
but it recently arrived to the U.S. In 2006,
the first Wann Izakaya was opened in Belltown. Restaurant manager, Dohui Koo, said
they serve small dishes that are meant to be
shared and paired with beverages. The restaurant boasts 60 different original cocktails.
With a zen modern interior, the dark floors
and woods make it a peaceful place for visitors to dine. The restaurant is known for their
Happy Hour that includes sushi rolls and
their popular takoyaki dish (fried octopus in
the shape of balls).
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Gambas
2230 3rd Ave
Seattle, WA 98121
(206) 728-5092
www.gambasrestaurant.com
Gambas in Belltown is a Japanese and
French-fusion restaurant named after its
owner and sushi chef, Ganbat Puntsag, who
is originally from Mongolia. It opened this
March and is likely the only restaurant of its
kind in the Seattle area. With a simple and
elegant interior, Gambas is open for lunch,
dinner and happy hour where visitors can
choose multiple dishes from sushi to French
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Hardcore FooDie
food is something fun and something people should try,” Castro says. Their popular
dishes include Tandan Fried Chicken (which
is chicken marinated in curry with tandan
leaves and breaded) as well as Oxtail Stew.
Some of us take
our food seriously and do
not
compromise on quality, flavor, and
nothing short of a splendid
dining experience. For the
connoisseurs, try taking a bite
out of these.
Kona Kitchen
8501 5th Ave NE
(206) 517-5662
www.konakitchen.com
Kona Kitchen is where to find some of the
best Hawaiian comfort foods in Seattle. Located in the Maple Leaf neighborhood, one
can find dishes like Kahlua Pig, Mochiko
Chicken, Huli Huli Chicken and Loco Moco.
Restaurant owner, Yuji Okumoto describes
their food as “local kine comfort food.”
When opening the restaurant, he wanted to
create a feeling of “ohana,” which means
‘family’ in Hawaiian, for everyone. “Kona
Kitchen not only serves great food but also
serves as a second home,” Okumoto says.
Cedar’s on Brooklyn
4759 Brooklyn Ave. NE
Seattle, WA 98105
(206) 527-4000
www.cedarsseattle.com
Curry and chai are what to get at Cedar’s on
Brooklyn in the U-District! Restaurant manager, Malik Khan, said that their chai made
from an old recipe was very popular and
they sell up to 200 cups daily. The restaurant
serves mostly Indian food but has integrated dishes with a “Mediterranean flair” that
creates a wider selection for visitors to try.
Some of their signature dishes are the Butter
Chicken and Chicken Marsala. Curries can
come with different meats including lamb
and prawns. The cooks can also add extra
chili to dishes for those willing to adventure
spicier meals.
Polynesian Grill
10518 S Tacoma Way
Tacoma, WA 98499-5400
(253) 584-6494
At the Polynesian Grill, visitors can taste different kinds of island-flavor style foods. In
January of 2004, Chico Mageo and his wife,
Annie, introduced Filipino food to those in
the Tacoma area. He said that his food represents the migration of Filipinos to Hawaii.
Most of the cooking is done by Noel Dejesus, his right-hand man. The popular dishes
include grilled ribs, Lumpia and Chicken
Adobo. Chico and his gang continue to improve their food with island service and a
smile. He prides himself saying that once
you try it, you won’t regret it.
Honey Pig
9104 S Tacoma Way
Lakewood, WA 98499-4407
(253) 581-1200
For adventurous and voracious eaters, Honey Pig in Tacoma is the spot to find all-youcan-eat Korean barbecue. The restaurant was
opened in 2007 under a different name but
was renamed to Honey Pig at the beginning
of this year. In addition to endless plates
of meat, visitors can try their combination
deals that come with a variety of different
marinated meats such as Bulgogi and their
popular Kalbi. Honey Pig staffer, Soobie Yoo
said that they are the only place in the area
to find Korean barbecue.
To contact Nina Huang,
My Favorite Recipes
Chicken salad in wonton cups
The IE asks local Asian American community
leaders what they have cooking on the stove.
Here, they share their favorite dishes to whip up!
RECIPE CONTRIBUTED BY HYEOK KIM, Executive Director for the InterIm Community Development Association (INTERIM CDA), a development corporation in
the business of promoting, advocating, and revitalizing the Chinatown/International District and other API communities for the benefit of low-and moderateincome residents and community business owners.
Albert’s Special Ginger Garlic ScallioN
peppercorn Crab
RECIPE CONTRIBUTED BY ALBERT SHEN, owner of Shen Consulting, Inc. a
project/construction management company specializing in airport capital projects.
He is board president of the NW Coalition of Asian Pacific Americans and Board
Chair of the Seattle Chinatown International District Preservation Development
Authority.
With such great local Dungeness crab in this area, this dish is very
easy to make and is one of my favorites. This dish can easily feed one
crab per person. It can get messy but
tastes great and can be paired with a
great Chardonnay. Or if you are not
in the mood for wine, try a bottle of
good, dry, crisp, cold sake. —Albert
Ingredients:
1.0 - 1.5lb live Dungeness Crab
2 inch ginger root, slice into thin medallions
5 stalks of Scallion (green onions), cut into 2 inch
pieces
3 Garlic cloves minced
1/4 cup chicken broth
2 tbsp Shao Xing cooking wine or for extra kick,
use whiskey
3 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp Chinese white pepper
1 tsp sugar
½ handful of Chinese chili dried peppers
1 tbsp of Chinese peppercorns
Cooking oil (Vegetable)
Instructions:
• Kill the crab by steaming the crab for no more than 10
mintues.
• Remove the underside flap, crab gills, mouth mandibles
and stomach sack and discard.
• Twist off legs and claws then crack them with a kitchen
mallet or back of knife.
• Break the body in half and cut them into 6 pieces.
• Prep the garlic, scallions and ginger.
• Heat up a wok with about 10 tbsp of cooking oil on high
heat until the wok is very hot.
• Throw in ginger, garlic, dried chili peppers and 1/3 of the white part of the scallions in
the wok and stir-fry for 30 seconds.
• Add in cooking wine and stir-fry for another 30 seconds.
• Add chicken broth and stir for 1 minute.
• Add in crab parts and stir-fry for another 3 minutes.
• Add in the rest of the scallions, remaining ingredients and stir-fry for another 2 minutes.
Remove crab and place aside on a plate. Enjoy!
This is an easy dish for parties inspired by a great appetizer cookbook from a friend that featured phyllo cups. I thought wonton cups
would be easier to assemble than
working with phyllo. This appetizer
is always a crowd-pleaser, if nothing
else because I think people love eating anything out of miniature containers! —Hyeok
Chicken salad ingredients:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Two chicken breasts
1 cup of sugar snap peas
¾ can of corn
1 cup of red cabbage
½ small red onion
½ cup of plum sauce
Mayonnaise and sour cream
Scallions
Directions:
• Salt and pepper the chicken breasts and marinate in olive oil for about 30 minutes in the refrigerator. Pan fry the
breasts until browned on both sides and cooked through,
about 20-25 minutes total. Let the chicken rest until cooled
and then dice into small cubes. Place in a medium bowl.
• Briefly submerge sugar snap peas in boiling water for
about 2-3 minutes, and drain. Roughly chop the peas into
thirds or fourths. You want the peas to still have some snap.
Add the peas to the bowl.
• Dice ½ small red onion and chop red cabbage (about 1
cup) into thin julienne strips and cut into roughly 1-inch lengths.
• Add the chopped red onion, red cabbage, and ¾ can of corn into the bowl.
• Before adding wet mixtures, toss the dry ingredients, chicken and vegetables, together.
• Start adding mayonnaise and sour cream, about ¼ cup each to start. Don’t let it get
too wet.
• Gradually add up to ½ cup of plum sauce.
• Keep adding mayonnaise, sour cream, and plum sauce in equal measures until mixture is thoroughly coated. You don’t want to add too much of the wet mixture or else
the sauce will be too thin.
• Add salt and pepper to taste.
• Thinly chop scallions at a slanted angle and set aside.
To make wonton cups:
• Take 1 pkg of square wonton wrappers and lightly coat with melted butter on one
side.
• Place 1 wonton wrapper dry side down in a mini-muffin pan. Shape into tulip-shaped
cups.
• Bake in a 350 degree (F) oven until the wontons are slightly browned.
To assemble:
• Take 1 wonton cup, gently fill with the chicken salad filling, and top off with a few
slivers of the chopped scallions.
• Arrange on a flat platter and enjoy!
My Favorite Recipes
ShiItake mushroom,
tofu, and green
mango spring rolls
with spicy peanut
dipping sauce
Recipe Contributed BY VU LE,
Executive Director of the Vietnamese
Friendship Association, an organization that empowers the Vietnamese
community to succeed while bridging,
preserving, and promoting cultural
heritage.
There is nothing that tastes of
home like fresh spring rolls with
a thick, spicy peanut sauce.
Whenever I came home from
college many years ago, I would
stand at the door, anticipating
the aroma of home-made delicacies that would waft from Mom’s
kitchen. None of those aromas
would be spring rolls, because
obviously they have no scent, as
anyone who has eaten a good
spring roll knows. Mom actually
never made spring rolls, so I had
to invent some. One of the great
things about these rolls is that
you can customize them. This
combo below has never failed
to please. I’m terrible at math, so
use the numbers only as a guide.
—Vu
Ingredients:
Rice paper
1 package small rice noodle (There’s a billion types and brands; go with “Bun Giang
Tay So Nho”)
1 tray fried tofu (get the ones that are in little
rectangles)
1 firm green mango
1 bunch cilantro
1 bunch basil (the purple-stemmed variety)
1/2 head greenleaf lettuce
3 cups sliced dried shitake mushrooms (or
fresh, if you’re all fancy and stuff)
3 cloves of garlic, finely diced
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 tsp hot chili sesame oil
1 tbsp soy sauce
Sauce: 1 cup creamy peanut butter, ½ cup
hoisin sauce, 1.5 cup water, 1 tbsp sriracha
sauce (optional), 2 tbsp ground peanuts
(optional)
Cook the noodles, then drain and flush
with cold water. Put your dried shitake
mushrooms in water so they rehydrate
while you do the other stuff. Meanwhile,
peel and cut the mango into strips about ¼
inch thick and set aside. Cut the tofu pieces
lengthwise and set aside. Wash your herbs
and lettuce. By this time, the shitake mushrooms should be fully rehydrated. Squeeze
most of the water out of them. Heat up
the oil, toss in the garlic, mushrooms, hot
chili oil, and soy sauce, and cook stirring
frequently for about a minute or two. Add
more soy sauce and chili oil according to
your preference. To make the sauce, stir the
peanut butter, hoisin sauce, water, and sriracha sauce together over medium heat until
it starts to slightly boil; add roasted ground
peanuts for texture. Add more water if it gets
too thick.
Assemble the rolls by laying out a piece
of rice paper dipped quickly in hot water.
In what order you assemble the roll is up
to you, but I usually put the lettuce on first, followed by the herbs,
then the noodle, then a strip or two
of mango, tofu, and some shitake
mushroom. Experiment until you
get the right balance of textures and
flavors. This should make about 18
rolls or so. Sweet, spicy, tangy, salty,
and mostly healthful, it’s the perfect
appetizer to pair with beer for an
elegant evening get-together.
Recipe for Ful
with Dried
Black Beans
RECIPE CONTRIBUTED BY ALARIC
BIEN, Executive Director for the Chinese
Information Services Center (CISC), an
agency that helps Chinese and other
Asian immigrants to achieve success in
their new community by providing information, referral, advocacy, social, and
support services.
I like trying lots of
different things.
One of my favorite pastimes is
searching
out
unusual and foods
and experiences
wherever I go. In
Brussels last year, I was in the
African immigrant neighborhood
of Matongé and had a chance
to sample dried grubs (well, one
anyway) and chikwangue, which
is sort of like a tamale make from
manioc paste.
When I can’t travel (which is
most of the time) I like to try out
new dishes in the kitchen. I never
know what it’s really supposed to
taste like, but sometimes I find a
recipe for something really good.
This recipe for Ful is one of them.
It’s actually supposed to be made
with fresh fava beans, but I don’t
even know what fava beans are,
much less where to get them! So
I just use dried black beans and
it comes out good anyway. The
people who invented it in Egypt
are probably rolling over in their
sarcophagi! Great on a hot summer day with Jajoukh (cucumbers with yogurt) and some pita.
—Alaric
• Soak 2 cups black beans overnight, pour
out water, then cook with about 8 cups of
water for about 2 hours until tender.
• Drain beans and toss with 1/3 cup olive
oil, 5 cloves pressed garlic and ½ cup lemon
juice (more to taste).
• Add plenty of salt and black pepper to
taste.
• Stir in 1 cup chopped tomatoes and ¾ cup
chopped parsley.
• Put in a large serving bowl, top with ½
cup chopped tomatoes and ¼ cup chopped
parsley.
• Garnish with lemon wedges and quartered
hard boiled eggs.
IE ARTS
Cookbooks Get the Taste Test
Recipes are just the beginning. Cookbooks serve
as a diary of memories, stories of families and as a
reminder of our identity.
BY VINH DO
IE Contributor
Cookbooks are more than recipes. They hold standards for posterity. They preserve
memories of dishes made, savored, and loved. They are testimonies of cooks who
have lived through eating, dining, and feasting. They are ultimately stories containing
recipes.
The four cookbooks in this collection play a dual role—repositories of stories
and manual of cooking instructions. The dishes within them, originating primarily
in Southeast Asia, can be found in other books about cuisine from this region. Their
authors, however, take on this subject matter with a personal twist.
1. “Secrets of the Red Lantern – Stories and Vietnamese Recipes from the
Heart” (Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC, 2008). By Pauline Nguyen.
Pauline Nguyen’s “Secrets of the Red Lantern” is
half biography, half cookbook, and all glamour. Its
gorgeous cover, binding, photos, and quality speak to
the best the publishing world offers. The dishes—set
in exquisite ceramics and earthenware—are handsomely styled in photos that would tempt any novice
to cook the items presented. Yet, the most alluring
aspect of this book is its author’s voice. She writes of
being born into a family with deep roots in the food
business in her native country, Vietnam, and in her
current home, Australia. Growing up with a tyrannical father, a former South Vietnamese army officer,
who played out his post-traumatic stress disorder in
the disciplining of his children and on the relentless
pursuit of running his own restaurant, she ran away
from home at a young age and found herself returning again to the restaurant business as an adult. She
manages the restaurant Red Lantern in Cabramatta, Australia, now with a husband and
a brother who are both chefs. This book is her coming to terms with her origins. She
tells of a time she had to cancel an invitation to a feast at the last minute knowing that
her father had prepared her favorite meal, Bun Bo Hue, and hearing the disappointment
in his voice. In her experience, food can be a basis of so many things—a vehicle for
business and a way to communicate emotion and love. And depending on the hands
that prepare the meal, it can be nourishing or punishing, painful or pleasurable.
COOKBOOKS, Continued on Page 12
IE ARTS
COOKBOOKS, Continued from Page 11
2. “The Asian Grandmothers Cookbook – Home Cooking from Asian Americans Kitchens” ( Sasquatch Books, 2009). By Patricia Tanumihardja.
If Pauline Nguyen’s book is biographical, then Patricia
Tanumihardja’s “Asian Grandmothers Cookbook” is encyclopedic. Ms. Tanumihardja, a food writer who has written
for Saveur, Sunset, and Seattle Metropolitan, has enlisted
the help of grandmothers from Seattle and beyond. Hers
is the only book in the collection with the distinction of
‘cookbook’ in its title. She culls recipes from grandmothers
from Japan, Taiwan, Myanmar, Korea, and India, among
other places, and writes about their culinary influences.
From this concept, one would expect the book to be colorful. It is not. Ms. Tanumihardja skims the superficialities
of each life she profiles. Her premise that grandmothers
play a special role in imparting love of food and love of
cooking in families is only half-true. The truth, found in
the very stories of the grandmothers, is that necessity breeds innovation. Some of the
grandmothers taught themselves or took cooking lessons. This is true even of the great
chefs of our times. Her best work lies in the excellent research behind a chapter on the
must-haves of an Asian pantry. She instructs that Thai basil is not Italian basil, explains
the differences in chilies, differentiates between cilantro and culantro, distinguishes
between varieties of rice and noodles, tells why Asians wash their rice and finally, discloses what goes into the making of those pungent shrimp pastes.
3. “Cooking from the Heart – The Hmong Kitchen in America” (University of
Minnesota Press, 2009). By Sami Scripter, Sheng Yang.
“Cooking from the Heart–The Hmong Kitchen in America” is also encyclopedic in its effort. This time the story is
of Hmong cooking. Published by University of Minnesota
press, the book is part history lesson and part anthropology of the ‘why’s and ways of Hmong food. The author,
Sami Scripter, was an educator in the school system and
it shows. She and co-author Sheng Yang are both at pains
to be accurate, explaining that “no comprehensive written record of Hmong cooking seemed to exist” and that
cooking is passed on through oral traditions and through
memory. The book would be better perhaps with fewer lessons and more recipes.
Ms. Scripter and Ms. Yang differentiate between the
dishes and ingredients found among the Hmong in Asia—
the Hmong are dispersed throughout Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, and Vietnam—and
dishes and ingredients found in America. Their book concedes to the fact that food
differs in the hands of those who make it and by the seasonality and availability of
food where it is made. What is noteworthy about this book is the cultural information
embedded—poems written by the Hmong people, explanations of food used in weddings and funerals, and types of items used for healing. What is lacking is some sort
of angle or lure to entice a reader to make the very food contained in this exhaustively
researched book.
4. “Wild, Wild East — Recipes and Stories from Vietnam” (Barron’s, 2008). By
Bobby Chinn.
The lure of “Wild, Wild East” is Bobby Chinn himself.
Mr. Chinn is both chef and restauranter. His business, Restaurant Bobby Chinn, in Hanoi, is a crossroads of points
international, and from there he makes both Vietnamese
dishes and hybrid dishes mixing culinary traditions from
his childhood and travels. (He is Chinese and Egyptian and
has worked in San Francisco, New York, London, Paris,
Saigon, and Hanoi.) His cookbook may be the only one
dedicated to Vietnamese dishes that is written from Vietnam itself. The book begs comparison with Pauline Nguyen’s “Secret of the Red Lantern”. Both contain personal
stories and recipes. But where Ms. Nguyen weaves meaningful recipes into the narrative of her life, Mr. Chinn tells
his story and the story of today’s Vietnam straight. And his
story is one of failures and successes in doing business in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi
and the consequences of playing nice and not-so-nicely with the Vietnamese. The dishes he writes about are those made using local ingredients and those borne of experience
gained through travel and work. Having been a TV presenter on the Discovery Channel
and the UK’s BBC2, Mr. Chinn puts the force of his personality into his dishes and cookbook. The dishes are audacious and fearless and his recounting of misadventures and
fortunes in Vietnam somehow impregnate the dishes with urgency and immediacy as if
one is tasting and seeing the food as it looks in Vietnam today. It helps that the pictures
appear to come from National Geographic. From this book, I would venture to make
Canh Chua Cá Lóc and Ceviche with Mangosteen Vinaigrette.
In all their different ways, the books here prove one point. Cooking is about those
who cook and those who come to the table. If differs in the hands that prepare it and in
the experience of those who savor it. A daughter recollects it. A food writer assembles
food from different places to demonstrate this truth. A teacher impresses the importance
of its social functions. And a chef bends tradition to incorporate modernity. Cooking,
then, is a way of living. And cookbooks tell us how to live it.
To contact Vinh Do, e-mail iexaminer@iexaminer.org.
A Crown Joule
in Wallingford
A tour-de-force KoreanFrench fusion restaurant
is inspired by fun and
eclectic cuisine.
BY PAUL KIM
IE Contributor
Joule restaurant in the Wallingford neighborhood.
Photo credit: Nina Huang.
If you’re in the mood for Korean food crisped texture and garnished with lemon.
with a certain je ne sais quois, look The side dishes, however, are what make
no further than Joule, a restaurant in the dining experience distinctive. The
Wallingford specializing in French/Korean softness of Korean mochi (dokbukki in
fusion cuisine. Owned and managed Korean) is accented by a sweet flavor that
by husband and wife team Seif Chirchi offsets the neutral qualities of the rice
and Rachel Yang, the restaurant features cake. The result is a tour-de-force of a side
a diverse and eclectic menu that merges dish, combining the best of East and West
Korean flavors with French techniques. I to create a hybrid work of art.
had a chance to interview Yang after eatRegarding their philosophy on cooking a meal there one Saturday evening. ing, Rachel states that it’s important to
She was both hospitable and knowledge- have fun with food. “We are not trying
able of her craft, resulting in an insight- to intimidate people with our dishes.
ful conversation about life, food, and We want people to have a great time.
approaches to cooking.
People oftentimes come in and say they
Yang and Chirchi met while training have never had food like this before. We
with Alaine Ducasse, a well-known chef always try to keep it interesting with difin New York City. It was in NYC that they ferent combinations.” With such eclectic
refined their cooking technique, working dishes as marinated sardines and octopus
at such restaurants as DB Bistro Moderne with roasted lemon, the menu is all about
and Per Se. As the daughter of Korean unexpected combinations. I asked Yang
immigrants, Yang felt pressure to become what qualities she considers important
a doctor or lawyer, but instead she fol- about French and Korean food. “Korean
lowed her heart and enrolled in cooking cuisine is really amazing because not
school at the Institute
of Culinary Education
in NYC. “I wanted to
do something starting at the bottom,
not knowing anything
about it. Growing up
in a big family, food
and gatherings were
a major part of life,”
says Yang about her
beginnings as a cook.
After working in NYC
for several years, the
couple decided to
open their restaurant
in Wallingford, not
too far from the UW
campus.
The first thing
people notice when
dining at their restaurant is the diversity of
Husband and wife team Seif Chirchi and Rachel Yang. Photo credit: Paul Kim.
the menu. There are
enough entrees and side dishes to please too many people have been introduced
just about any palate. From bison hanger to it,” says Yang. “When they come into
to pickled beef tongue, the menu includes the restaurant they want to experience
dishes that might not appear on more new flavors, like yukgaechang. The use
traditional restaurants’ menus. “The ingre- of different fermented products gives the
dients are fun. People don’t want to see food different layers of flavors, like French
the same thing all the time,” Yang says. cuisine has different layers of food.”
The ambience of the restaurant is
“They want to experience new, interesting
items that can expand their palate. They pleasant and inviting. The walls are paintdon’t want to be challenged too much, ed in creamy, earthy tones to provide
but chefs want to be inspired by what they warmth to an otherwise minimalist setting. The open kitchen, cozily situated
cook.”
For Yang, balance is an important fac- to the right of the room, allows diners
tor to consider when cooking a dish. She to see firsthand the artistry of the cooks.
elaborates, “Everything we put out needs When asked the reason for locating the
to have a good balance. In terms of flavor, restaurant in Wallingford, Yang replies:
the dish needs to have sweet, spicy, and “The Wallingford neighborhood is really
tart tastes. Multiple flavors and different amazing. There are lots of small restautextures add to the experience”. True to rants, which give the neighborhood a
her approach to cooking, the lamb sirloin, small town atmosphere. There is a strong
with castelvetrano olives and tamarind community feel. We feel continuous supyogurt, perfectly blends the soft, delicate
feel of the lamb with a smoky finish. The
mackerel is cooked whole with a slightly
KOREAN, Continued on Page 13
IE ARTS
A New Art Project on the
Chinese Exclusion Act
BY COLLIN TONG
IE Contributor
Collin Tong is a Seattle-based writer and former senior director
of communications for Washington State University
“China: Lost and Found” is the theme seeking wealth through marriage. It’s like
of a new series of artwork created by women selling motor oil. Many are getaward-winning Seattle artist Cheryll Leo- ting cosmetic surgery to make themselves
Gwin. Funded by a King County grant, more appealing.”
Leo-Gwin’s paintings and sculpture
Leo-Gwin’s own family experienced
explore the impact of the U.S. Chinese hardship as a result of the Exclusion
Exclusion Act of 1882 on
Act. “My mother couldn’t
women and their famiimmigrate to the U.S.
lies.
from Canada because of
Leo-Gwin sees parthe restrictions. My father
allels between the hiscouldn’t immigrate to
toric period of virulent
Canada to be with his
anti-Chinese racism and
wife because of a simultacurrent debates about
neous Canadian Chinese
immigration in the U.S.
Exclusion Act, so he wasn’t
Chinese families split up
present for my birth or
during the Exclusion Act
my sister’s because of the
when Chinese men left
twin exclusion acts.”
their families to come
Leo-Gwin’s grandfather
California to build the
was a former physician
Cheryll Leo-Gwin. Marilyn & Mao
railroads, she explained.
and Baptist minister, while
(detail).
“The Exclusion Act is
her grandmother was the
a very complex topic, and its effects first Chinese baby born in Santa Clara,
continue to reverberate through today,” Calif. Leo-Gwin’s father was born in the
she said. Enacted by Congress following U.S. and moved west from Missouri. He
years of mounting racial tensions, the eventually became a merchant so that he
Exclusion Act effectively barred Chinese could bring his wife and daughters from
immigration until its repeal in 1943.
Canada.
A
fourth-generation
ChineseIssues of Asian-American identity
American, Leo-Gwin discussed her new also spurred Leo-Gwin’s interest in the
project in a recent Examiner interview. Exclusion Act. “I was trying to find a
She came up with the idea after her first connection between myself and China. I
visits to China where she launched her wanted to pass something onto my kids.
business.
My ancestors were not in China, but in
“My own interest in the Exclusion Act America,” she explained. “Growing up
broadened from an academic topic to a in Seattle, I didn’t know many Chinese
personal one,” she said. “I grew up in an people. Going to China made me realize I
all-white neighborhood on Beacon Hill didn’t fit there either.”
and didn’t have a clue what it meant to
Working in mixed media, Leo-Gwin
be Chinese. The trips to China made me designed papier-mâché sculptures and
realize that I am American.”
acrylic paintings that reflect on the
Historically, early Chinese communi- legacy of the Chinese Exclusion Act.
ties in the U.S. were bachelor societies Commissioned by King County’s 4Culture
comprising men who left China to seek program, the new exhibit is scheduled to
their fortunes during the Gold Rush era in go on public display in June 2010.
California. Once there, they encountered
The winner of numerous honors,
racial discrimination and stiff opposition including the Pacific Northwest Arts and
from American workers fearing competi- Crafts Awards, Leo-Gwin received her
tion from the new immigrants.
master of fine arts from the University of
According to historian Judy Yung, Washington. A former commissioner with
the overwhelming majority of Chinese the Washington State Arts Commission,
women in the U.S. in the nineteenth she also served as president and board
century were prostitutes. Most had been member of the Wing Luke Museum.
kidnapped, lured, or purchased from
poor parents by procurers in China, Leo-Gwin will talk about her new work
smuggled or brought to the U.S. dis- at a Nov. 13 Artist Lecture, entitled
guised as daughters or wives of Chinese “Exclusion,” at the Bellevue Art Museum.
immigrants, and then forced to work as For more information, contact the museindentured or enslaved prostitutes.
um at [425] 519-0763.
“Even today, women in China are seen
as commodities and sell themselves,” To contact Collin Tong,
Leo-Gwin said. Young urban women are e-mail iexaminer@iexaminer.org.
KOREAN, Continued from Page 12
port from the neighborhood.” Indeed, it is
this sense of strong community that keeps
customers coming back for more. One
gets the impression that the two chefs
really care for their guests, taking the time
to get to know them as individuals rather
than just customers.
Perhaps what keeps the guests returning to the restaurant is the fact that the
two chefs are always there. Yang states,
“We see our customers and know them.
It’s like a family atmosphere. We want
to feed them like our friends and family. They know they can count on the
same quality of food.” The open kitchen
also creates an intimate atmosphere that
allows guests to witness the chefs at work.
Knowing that the chefs are watching the
Regarding the future of Joule, Yang
responds,“We would love to expand. We
never expected to open a restaurant at
such an early age. So we learn a lot from
the experience. There are so many different aspects of Korean food that we want
to bring. People are interested in Korea,
which has a lot to offer.” Indeed, with the
recent Hallyu wave of Korean film and
culture sweeping through the world, we
can expect more people to be curious
about Korean food. As Korea aggressively
modernizes in the twenty-first century, the
food becomes increasingly eclectic, with
influences from such regions as India and
Vietnam. The cuisine at Joule reflects this
cosmopolitan influence.
“Our food is not Korean or French but
modern American. There is no definition
of American food.”
“We are not trying to intimidate people with
our dishes. We want people to have a great
time. People oftentimes come in and say they
have never had food like this before.”
whole scene also ensures that the service
is top-notch. Our waiter is prompt, attentive, and friendly. Although we have to
wait a fairly long time to get our entrees,
we are treated to side dishes to whet our
appetite before the main meal. The zucchini basil pancake, with shrimp and soy
mustard sauce, makes a perfect prelude
to the mackerel and succulent lamb that
follow.
To conclude the interview, I ask Yang
how she came up with the name of the
restaurant. “The name was given to us by
our mother-in-law. Joule has a lot of different meanings, including the fact that it has
the pronunciation of jewel. We wanted
the place to inspire energy.”
To contact Paul Kim,
WEB EXTRA:
Read a preview story on Aono Jikken’s performance of a
live score to a screening of the silent film, “The Downfall
of Osen”, directed by Kenji Mizoguchi by going to www.
iexaminer.org and clicking on “Arts”. A complete Arts Etc.
Calendar is also available online at www.iexaminer.org.
Seattle Country Day School
Developing the abilities of highly capable
children, kindergarten – 8th grade.
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EducationRESOURCE DIRECTORY
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WA
98114
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14047,
Seattle,
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98114
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Service
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ph:
206-467-9976
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Senior
Service
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253-854-0077
ph: 206-467-9976
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1601
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Seattle,
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advocacy
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Pierce
Counties.
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ph:
206-323-7100
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Center For Career Alternatives 206-323-6336
206-323-6336
901
Rainier
Ave S,
S, Seattle,
Seattle,
WA 98144
98144
901
Rainier
Ave
WA
East
King County
County
Family Center
Center
East
King
Family
ph:
206-322-9080
fx: 206-322-9084
206-322-9084425-213-1963
425-213-1963
ph:
206-322-9080
fx:
1601 E Yesler Way,
Seattle,
98122
www.ccawa.org
South
KingWA
County
Family Center
Center
www.ccawa.org
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King
County
Family
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Chinese Information
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ROBERT A. RICHARDS
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EMAIL:
NOW HIRING!
Sales Associate
Flexible Schedule
Part-Time & Full-Time
Extra Income
SUBSCRIBE
TO THE
Work From Home
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No Experience Necessary
INTERNATIONAL
Training Provided
EXAMINER FOR
B=/>>:G1/::
$25/YEAR FOR 24 ISSUES!
$
%&#
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Please mail a check for $25 to the International
Examiner or donate to:
622 S. Washington St., Seattle, WA 98104.
your contribution.
S Thank
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AforT
T L E
PATIO COVERS
s0ATIO#OVERS
s3UNROOMS
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Variety of Manufacturers to Choose From!
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FREE in-home measurement
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(206) 850-3600
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3621 - The International Examiner

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