(Japan) New Whitening QD line “Shion”

Asian trends = Nikko solutions
BB Cream
BB Cream (Blemish Balm)
What is BB Cream?
BB cream, also known as Blemish Balm or Blemish Base, is a
cosmetic item sold in Korea.
It was initially used by dermatologists to help laser surgery patients
protect, soothe and refine highly sensitive skin while providing
light coverage for post-laser scars, acne and other blemishes.
Additionally, BB cream encourages skin regeneration and helps
to maintain youthful skin.
Originally formulated in Germany, BB cream has in recent years
gained a huge following for its skin-regenerating properties and
is now also widely used in Asia to provide natural-looking skin
coverage. Korean celebrities and cosmetic companies were the
first to discover BB cream and the craze for this wonder cream,
which beautifies while healing, has now spread from Korea to
Japan to South East Asia and is already quickly making its way
to Europe and the USA.
(From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
BB Cream
(Blemish Balm)
Skin care
Primer
Foundation
UV care
All in one!
The difference between BB
cream and other make-up
applications is that it is a
skincare / treatment product
combined with make-up. BB
cream treats skin while
covering up. There are many
types of BB cream: whitening,
anti-wrinkle etc, but all of them
work as moisturizer, sunscreen,
make-up base and foundation
too.
Before
After
Now in Japan!
HANSKIN
BB Total Cream
50mL JPY4.700
Made in Korea
HANSKIN is the company who
launched BB Cream for the first time in
Korea.
Moisturization Essence
UV Cut
Primer Concealer Foundation
MISSHA
M BB Cream
50g JPY1.800
Made in Korea
MISSHA’s BB Cream is very popular
especially for young ladies.
Premium BB Cream
JPY9.000
Made in Korea
Prestige grade of BB Cream.
Containing pure gold. Sold 3 pcs per
second by TV shopping!
Kanebo
Freshel Moist Lift BB Cream
50g JPY1.600
Made in Japan
BB Cream formulated for 30’s and 40’s.
Sold 2.5 million pcs from Aug 2009 till
Sep 2010!
Love Clover BB Cream Foundation NO
JPY 2100; 30 g.
Ingredients:
Nikkomulese WO (W/O emulsifier for siliconerich formulas),
Plastic Powder D-400 (for concealing effect),
VC-IP (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate; for antipigmentation),
Silblend 91 (for texture improvement),
DGTIS (Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate; additional
emulsfier / dispersant; helps to increase stability
of non-silicone oil phase)
Concealing effect
provided with Plastic
Powder D-400
Rafra
BB Protector UV
Ingredients:
JPY 2800; 35 g.
Nikkomulese WO (W/O emulsifier for silicone-rich formulas),
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate (anti-inflammatory),
Silblend 91 (for texture improvement),
SI-15RV (Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate; additional emulsfier /
dispersant; helps to increase stability of non-silicone oil phase)
Ishizawa Lab
Nanoce BB moist
cream
JPY 1800; 40 g.
Ingredients:
Nikkomulese WO.
Polyglyceryl-2
diisostearate is used as
additional emulsifier /
dispersant.
Ingredients: Nikkomulese 41, Hexaglyn PR-15
How to Make a BB Cream
1. Base / Powders
2. Actives
3. SPF
4. And more
How to Make a BB Cream
1. Base / Powders
2. Actives
3. SPF
4. And more
Emulsifier for Water-in-Silicone
Systems with Superior Texture
Water-inSilicone (W/Si)
Nikkomulese WO
Quick break
Active delivery
Dispersant
NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD.
1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN
TEL: 81-3-3661-1677
FAX: 81-3-3664-8620
E-mail: inter@nikkol.co.jp
www.ni kkol.co.jp
Non-tacky
Extremely stable
Efficacy of W/O and W/Si systems
Active delivery
Data published by Maruzen Pharmaceuticals
W/O systems are attractive because they provide better active delivery,
occlusive effect and are stable on skin.
The major obstacles in
development of W/O skin care are tacky and heavy texture and stability
problems…
Characteristics of Nikkomulese WO
INCI Name: Cyclomethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone,
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Revolutionary emulsifier and gelling agent for water-in-silicone or
silicone-rich W/O systems. Makes very stable emulsions with
extraordinary texture: light, elegant and glossy. Nikkomulese WO
makes it possible to combine penetrating and water-proof
properties of water-in-oil systems with light (not tacky) feel.
Nikkomulese WO creates thixotropic emulsions with remarkable
stability and spreadability. It also enhances dispersion of pigments
in sun care product or liquid foundation.
Emulsion principle of
Nikkomulese WO
Surfactant
Water-in-Silicone
(W/Si)
Modified Mineral Clay
OIL
Modified Mineral Clay
d
Modified Mineral Clay
d’
a
Modified Mineral
Clay
Enlargement of clay’s
Oil
gellation
basal
spacing
Nikkomulese WO gels oil phase by means of disteardimonium
hectorite and silicone-based surfactant.
Emulsion principle of
Nikkomulese WO
Water-in-Silicone
(W/Si)
Water
Disteardimonium Hectorite
H2O
H2O
Oil Phase
H2O
Oil gel
Disteardimonium Hectorite
SiliconeSilicone-type
emulsifier
Enlarged illustration of gel structure
Silicone-type emulsifier and hectorite
derivative form a thixotropic oil gel
around water droplets.
Example of thixotropic W/O
emulsion prepared with
Nikkomulese WO
Quick break
Formulating with Nikkomulese ＷＯ
Extremely stable
Emulsifier
Thickener
- Suitable for silicone oils (60 - 100% of the total oil
phase)
- Ester oils (50% of the oil phase)
- UV-absorbers
- Mineral oil (20~30% of the oil phase)
Usage guidelines
Oil Phase
Water Phase
Water
Actives, etc.
Powder
Oil
Nikkomulese WO
50C
50-60C
Homogenizing
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Silicone oils must form at least 50% of oil phase of the formula.
Add Nikkomulese WO in oil phase and disperse well before emulsification. (Nikkomulese WO
contains hectorite which does not completely dissolve in oils).
During emulsification use homogenizer (over 3000 rpm) and add water phase into oil gradually
(by little portions).
Homogenizing speed may influence viscosity of formulation.
Use level: 3% for creams; 5-7% for foundations / sunscreens with inorganic powders.
Features of emulsions prepared
with Nikkomulese WO
Extremely stable
Quick break
Good stability
Quick break effect
Active delivery
Dispersant
Non-tacky elegant texture
Long lasting moisturizing /
occlusive effect
Strong water resistance
Non-tacky
W/Si Quick Break Cream
Now also available.......
Non-silicone Type W/O Emulsifier
Nikkomulese WO-NS
&
Cyclomethicone Free Type W/Si Emulsifier
Cyclomethicone
Nikkomulese WO-CF PLUS FREE
Wrinkle Concealing /
Texture Improvement
Original Powder Ingredients
Plastic Powder
D-400
INCI: HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer and
Silica.
It provides remarkable soft texture and smooth feeling
to formulations. The softness of Plastic Powder D-400 is
50 times higher than nylon powder and over 100 times
higher than PMMA. Superior pore / wrinkle concealing
effect.
Particle Size: 10 ~ 15μm
Wrinkle concealing effect
(artificial skin). Powders
are mixed with mineral oil
(50:50).
PMMA
Nylon 12
Plastic Powder
Powder
D-400
How to Make a BB Cream
1. Base / Powders
2. Actives
3. SPF
4. And more
Whitening / Anti-pigmentation
Zinc-Glycine Complex
In the body, metallothionein, an antioxidant protein, acts as a natural sunscreen to reduce
adverse effects of UV irradiation. Metallothionein is very effectively induced by zinc, however,
zinc in ionized form has poor skin penetrating ability and cannot be uptaken into cells in
sufficient amounts. To solve this problem, we synthesized and examined various types of zinc
complexes containing different amino acids as ligands. As a result, we have developed ZincGlycine Complex (INCI: Zinc Glycinate), a zinc complex with glycine, which showed superior
induction of metallothionein in the body and effectively reduced oxidative stress.
Zinc-Glycine Complex triggers expression of intracellular
metallothionein that inhibits tyrosinase activity.
It enhances cells’ tolerance to UV radiation and
oxidative stress and reduces UV-induced
melanogenesis.
25
20
15
ZnCl
10
Effect on expression of intracellular metallothionein (MT)
Zinc-Glycine Complex, at different concentrations, and 10
μmol/L zinc chloride, as a reference, were added to
different samples of human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells). After
a 24-hour incubation period, MT protein expression was
analyzed using ELISA method. Zinc-Glycine Complex
increases the amount of MT more efficiently compared to
zinc chloride.
2
5
0
0
10
1
10
ZincZinc-Glycine
Complex
Concentration
（μ mol/L ）
MT protein expression analyzed using ELISA method
p<0.01
Zinc Glycine Complex: New Skin Lightening Test (in vivo)
Subjects: 6 people.
UV: 1.5 MED.
Dosage: 1%.
Term: 2 weeks.
NEW
DATA
Strong
pigmentation
Placebo
Positive control
Zinc Glycine Complex 1.0%
Positive control: Sodium
Ascorbyl Phosphate; 3%
Week
pigmentation
Weeks
Moisture / Hydration / Barrier
Aloe Coated Powders
Makeup Powders with Moisturizing Effect
EM SERICITE EW-F8
EM TALC LW-F8
Sericite and talc treated with a combination of aloe extract
and coconut oil.
This unique coating melts at body temperature and provides a
moisturizing effect. It also improves adhesion of powders to the
skin giving makeup a longlong-lasting effect.
Both powders have an elegant and creamy texture. When
aloe coating melts, it enhances slip and provides a unique feel.
Aloe and coconut oil treatment enhances affinity of powders
with oils used as binders in pressed foundation: formulations
made with EM SERICITE EWEW-F8 and EM TALC LWLW-F8
demonstrated good shockshock-resistance (dropping
(dropping test).
EM SERICITE EWEW-F8
EM TALC LWLW-F8
INCI Name
(%)
INCI Name
(%)
MICA
92.0%
ALOE BARBADENSIS
LEAF EXTRACT
4.0%
ALOE BARBADENSIS
LEAF EXTRACT
4.0%
COCOS NUCIFERA
(COCONUT) OIL
4.0%
COCOS NUCIFERA
(COCONUT) OIL
4.0%
TALC
92.0%
Aloe and coconut oil coating
melts at skin temperature forming
a moisture matrix and tightly
binding the powders with the skin
surface.
Aloe Coated Powders
Makeup Powders with Moisturizing Effect
EM SERICITE EW-F8
EM TALC LW-F8
Sensory
evaluation (15
subjects).
Addition of 10%
of aloealoe-coated
powder
significantly
improves sensory
properties of
pressed
foundation, in
particular
moisturizing
effect and
adhesion to skin.
True Moisturization / NMF
VB6-IP
Oil-soluble derivative of vitamin B6: promotion of
filaggrin and NMF synthesis in skin.
“True natural moisturizing” from inside the skin.
INCI Name: Pyridoxine Tris-Hexyldecanoate
filaggrin
Blank
Vitamin B6
filaggrin
VB6-IP
Skin Hydration Effect (In-vivo)
Samples: VB6-IP 1% and VB6-IP 2% cream.
Application: twice daily. Panel: 20 people.
Phyto-elastisizer BG: Ceramide Synthesis (In-vivo)
1% PHYTOPHYTO-ELASTICIZER BG
Wrinkle reduction and skin
microrelief improvement
effect.
Test period: 4 weeks.
Concentration: 1%.
Number of subjects: 10.
Application: twice daily.
Before
After
Subjects: 10 male and female volunteers (age 25-35).
Lotion containing 1% of PHYTO-ELASTICIZER BG and
placebo lotion were applied twice daily for 28days to the
inner forearm (24mm x 45mm).
On first and last day of testing corneocytes were collected
by cyanoacrylate resin. Amount of ceramide extracted
from collected corneocytoes was measured by TLC
method.
Amount of Ceramide (mg/mg)
In vivo test: increase of ceramide content in skin
10
8
+29.4%
6
4
6.91
5.34
2
0
Before After
1% PHYTO-ELASTICIZER BG
Phyto-elastisizer BG
Boost skin hydration and prevent dry skin by normalizing
intracellular water transfer (Aquaporin-3)
--33
P
P
Q
AAQ
Increase rate
ofAQP3 mRNA (%)
Effect on AQP-3 mRNA expression in normal human keratonocytes
+14.9%
120
100
80
60
Control
Phyto-elastisizer BG
(0.2%)
How to Make a BB Cream
1. Base / Powders
2. Actives
3. SPF
4. And more
SPF Boosting
Suppression of UV-induced
erythema: SPF boosting effect
NEW
DATA
SPF booster
Batyl Alcohol 100 shows significant effect of suppression of UV
induced erythema in vivo. Therefore, if used in the sunscreen
formulation Batyl Alcohol 100 (at 1%) will provide SPF boosting effect
of approximately 21%.
Suppression of UV-induced erythema
Addition of Batyl Alcohol (1%)
will provide the following SPF
boosting effect:
Note: the SPF boosting effect is calculated on basis of UV induced erythema suppression test results.
The actual SPF increase may vary depending on the components of the actual formulation.
RTFE BG80 suppresses
formation of UV-induced
erythema
RTFE BG80 shows significant effect of suppression
of UV induced erythema in vivo. Therefore, if used
in the sunscreen formulation RTFE BG80 will
provide SPF boosting effect. The MED increased in
volunteer A (below) will boost SPF by
approximately 17%.
NE
W
DA
TA
SPF booster
Addition of RTFE
BG80 (1%) will
provide the following
SPF boosting effect:
Note: the SPF boosting effect is calculated on basis of UV induced erythema
suppression test results. The actual SPF increase may vary depending on the
components of the actual formulation.
How to Make a BB Cream
1. Base / Powders
2. Actives
3. SPF
4. And more
Anti-stinging
“Stinging” reaction to cosmetics
NEW
DATA
Skin friendly
Recently, it was reported that there is difference in sensory
feeling depending on the race of the person. In particular,
Asian people appear to be sensitive to stinging irritation of
cosmetic products. In this test, methylparaben is used as a
positive control. By comparison stinging score of the test sample
with that of positive control, stinging irritation of sample is
evaluated.
We can evaluate immediate stinging sensation that occurs
after application of the skin care products using the specially
selected panel of “stingers” who can sense the irritation of the
product applied topically.
“Stinging test
performed”
Anti-stinging effect (in vivo)
Average stinging score
Weak
Strong
3
NEW
DATA
Skin friendly
Before
2
After 1 week
application of
Lecinol S-10
(1.0%)
1
Water
0.1%
methylparaben
solution
Application of Lecinol S-10 at 1.0%
significantly reduces average stinging
score against methylparaben solution
(after 1 week; n=13).
Lecinol S-10 suppresses stinging
reaction in humans.
Lecinol S-10 can be used as an
additive to reduce stinging of mild
irritants (parabens, phenoxyethanol,
fragrances, hinokitiol, sodium lactate
etc.)
Control:
Water
0.1%
methylparaben
solution
Number of subjects from stinging panel, who showed reduction of
stinging score after 1 week application of Lecinol S-10 (1.0%)
1 (8%)
7 (54%)
Formulation
Antiaging & Lightening BB Cream
(1% Zinc-Glycine Complex）
L.08-BBUV-1-20091124
Ingredients
Anti-aging &
Lightening
BB Cream
Function
%
A
NIKKOL Nikkomulese WO
W/O emulsifier
5.00
KF-995
Silicone oil
12.50
KF-56
Silicone oil
2.50
KP-545
Silicone oil
1.00
KSG-15
Silicone oil
2.00
KF96A-6cs
Silicone oil
2.50
KSP100
3.00
NIKKOL Pentalan 408
2.00
NIKKOL Jojoba Oil
0.40
E-Mix-D
0.10
NIKKOL DISM
1.00
TiO2 A (CR-50)
UV absorber / SPF ingredient
2.00
FDP-C-111S-14 (Toshiki)
8.00
Fragrance
0.05
B
Ethanol
3.00
Methylparaben
0.20
Phenoxyethanol
0.20
Glycerin
8.00
BG
3.00
EDTA-2Na
0.10
Zinc-Glycine Complex
Anti-pigmentation / anti-oxidant
1.00
Trisodium Citrate Dihydrate
0.60
Citric Acid
0.40
Sodium Hyaluronate (1% solution)
Water
Moisturizing active
1.00
40.45