puglia - Viajes Le Grand
Transcription
puglia - Viajes Le Grand
☐ BIKING PUGLIA CASUAL INNS The map says Italy. The heel of the “boot.” Though at times you may feel you’ve strayed into Greece. And that’s certainly a part of Puglia’s distinctive appeal. Endless groves of silvery-gray olive trees. Low drystone walls hugging agricultural plots the size of throw-rugs. A rugged coastline and sparkling blue-green waters of the Adriatic. And the typically Pugliese profusion of conical-roofed stone trulli - the region’s unofficial architectural emblems. Here you’ll find the people welcoming and down-to-earth. The cuisine fresh, rustic and satisfying. Welcome to your perfect escape. Welcome to Puglia. 14BPLQR1E (9/19/13) NEVER SUBCONTRACTED We operate our own trips around the globe. That way we control the quality—and we're fully responsible for your great experience. TWO SUPPORT VANS I’ve spent these last two days telling everyone that my Puglia trip was absolutely perfect. The leaders, were wonderful, extremely professional and yet lots of fun and engaging. I will always remember them telling us to “embrace the chaos” of Puglia and we did. I learned about Italy and also learned a great deal from my fellow travelers. I was traveling alone for the first time ever and the Backroads format made everything work—a great balance of group activities, the freedom to spend time alone and the opportunity to challenge myself physically—all in a beautiful environment. Kate Gruen - Mill Valley, CA We provide two support vans on all of our trips* so you can count on us to be there when you need us, regardless of the route you take. THREE LEADERS Our trips have three leaders*, for an average 6:1 guest-to-leader ratio. Guests consistently score our leaders 9.7 out of 10, telling us they make all the difference. THOUGHTFUL TRIP DESIGN We know how to create exceptional travel experiences, ensuring that you get the most from every moment as your trip unfolds. MULTIPLE DAILY ROUTES Being able to choose among several expertly designed routes each day gives you the freedom to enjoy the best of a region at your own pace. WE CELEBRATE MIXED ABILITIES To accommodate varied activity levels, you need three leaders, two vans, multiple route options, detailed directions, a rating system showing if shuttles are required, and plenty of well-matched riding/hiking companions. *95% of Backroads guests travel with the support of two or more vans and three leaders. The remaining 5% are on trips with very few guests where only one van and two leaders are needed to maintain our high standards. 6 DAYS, 5 NIGHTS ROUTE RATING LEVELS 2–4 We want to make sure you’re on the right trip and that you have the best experience possible. Every Backroads trip is unique and this one is no exception. Navigating Bike Routes All roads lead to Rome—and locals here know the way without the need for street signs along their lovely country thoroughfares. As such, many of our bike routes follow roads with little or no signage, which may require more attention to the directions than you might expect. Be prepared to make a few more stops along the way to ensure you’re on the right track. Day 1 On the first day of the trip, meet your Backroads Trip Leaders (the folks in Backroads T-shirts) at 11 a.m. outside the Bari Centrale train station. Please arrive dressed in your biking clothes and have your rain gear handy, or bring them in a small daypack so you can change before the ride. Shuttle to Polignano a Mare 1 Hour Polignano Route 13 Miles (1,100’ elevation gain) Benvenuti in Puglia! Our first day provides a great introduction to the sights, smells, sounds and tastes of the region. After meeting we shuttle into the hills to an agriturismo (country retreat and working farm) above the seaside village of Polignano a Mare. Get acquainted over a delicious picnic lunch and take in wonderful views of the Adriatic Sea. Your Trip Leaders then fit your bike and give a brief talk on biking techniques and safety before you set out across Puglia’s rolling terrain. Start with a downhill to Polignano a Mare, where you can check out the village’s sea caves before continuing along the stunning coast. Then venture inland to tackle a nice uphill to Conversano and our hotel, Corte Altavilla. Settle in and relax before we gather for a wine reception at the hotel. Later we head to a local restaurant for a delectable dinner of Pugliese specialties. Lodging: Corte Altavilla 3 Day 2 CASUAL INNS* Biking Options: Alberobello Route: 24 Miles* (1,100’ elevation gain) Fasano Route: 32 Miles* (1,200’) Coccaro Route: 45 Miles (1,300’) *with shuttle After breakfast, pedal country roads lined with rustic stone walls into the undulating hills of the Val d’Itria, a patchwork of almond orchards, olive groves and vineyards. The landscape is an artist’s dream, with its vibrant palette of reddish brown soil, green grass, blue skies and white buildings. There are sizable climbs en route to Alberobello, a World Heritage site known for its abundance of trulli, round stone buildings constructed without mortar and topped with conical gray slate roofs—Alberobello boasts 1,500! Because similar structures are found in Turkey, Sardinia, Spain and southern France, historians believe that different ethnic groups influenced the building style. We explore Alberobello’s historic center with a local guide, then gain insight into another long-practiced art—mozzarella making. Your appetite piqued, we enjoy a savory picnic lunch. CORTE ALTAVILLA 1 NIGHT This former nobleman’s home dates back to the 11th century and features private balconies that look out onto Conversano, “La Città d’Arte” (The City of Art). (spa) Conversano +39-080-4959668 www.cortealtavilla.it MASSERIA TORRE COCCARO 2 NIGHTS Set just a short distance from the sea, this onetime refuge for pilgrims and the Knights of Malta offers unique guest rooms, each with its own private garden. (pool, spa, golf) It’s a quick shuttle from Alberobello to peaceful Masseria Torre Coccaro, our hotel outside of Fasano. Or, if you have the energy, you can reach the hotel by bike—it’s a delightful ride! Savelletri di Fasano +39-080-4829310 www.masseriatorrecoccaro.com This evening we’re treated to dinner in the hotel’s restaurant which specializes in fresh, local seafood. Lodging: Masseria Torre Coccaro MASSERIA PANAREO 2 NIGHTS (ABOVE) A 15th-century country house perched on a hill, with great views of the Adriatic and the Cape of Otranto. (pool) Otranto +39-080-36812999 www.masseriapanareo.com *With 2 Premiere Inn nights at Masseria Torre Coccaro Puglia Biking 4 Day 3 along the ridge road. For even more miles, loop down to the coastal resort town of Torre Canne to dip your toes in the Adriatic or indulge in an afternoon gelato. Biking Options: Ostuni Route: 20 Miles* (1,100’ elevation gain) Ostuni & Ridge Road Loop: 32 Miles (1,200’) Torre Canne Route: 38 Miles (1,200’) Tonight we visit local friends and feast on regional specialties at their excellent restaurant. Buon appetito! Lodging: Masseria Torre Coccaro *with shuttle Warm up your legs this morning with a flat section before a long gradual climb gets your heart pumping. Then spin along a quiet road to the town of Cisternino, after which point a few more hills challenge you. The scenery is beautiful—olive groves, the Adriatic coast and countryside dotted with masserie (large farms). A breezy downhill leads you to historic Ostuni, spread across three hills and topped with a Spanish-style Gothic cathedral. The “White City’s” labyrinthine roads and alleyways were designed to confuse invaders; today, Ostuni’s cobblestone streets, shops and bright whitewashed houses provide a great setting for a leisurely stroll. You’ll find several charming osterie (casual family-run restaurants), panini shops and pizzerias for lunch on your own. Day 4 Shuttle to Santa Maria al Bagno 1½ Hours Biking Options: Corigliano Route: 23 Miles* (200’ elevation gain) Coast-to-Coast Route: 48 Miles (300’) Porto Badisco Route: 51 Miles (300’) *with shuttle Today’s route offers the unique chance to bike from coast to coast across Italy’s heel, and the nearly flat terrain will make it easier than it sounds. After breakfast we shuttle to Santa Maria al Bagno, a small fishing village on the Ionian Sea. Inaugurate your ride by putting your feet in the ocean, then head out past olive trees and villages so small that they rarely see tourists. Arriving in Corigliano around midday, we enjoy lunch on the ramparts of its restored castle. The massive fortress dominates the town’s hilltop skyline and features a Baroque façade that was added in 1667. Each of the four corner towers bears a relief of a different saint. From here you can hop in the van and head back to the hotel for some downtime or a refreshing swim in the pool, or bike there through the serene countryside After lunch you can shuttle to our next hotel, Masseria Panareo, perched on the Cape of Otranto. But if you’d rather ride there, pedal past more olive orchards and power up the biggest climb of the day. If you’ve made it this far, what’s a few more miles? Bring your ride full circle by reaching the white-sand beaches of Porto Badisco and touching the Adriatic. ROUTE RATING INFORMATION The routes on this trip are rated Levels 2–4. LEVEL 2 21–30 miles 2–4 hours Tonight, relax in one of Otranto’s many cafés before settling in for dinner on your own—there are plenty of tasty options! Lodging: Masseria Panareo LEVEL 3 31–40 miles 3–5 hours LEVEL 4 KEEPING YOU UP TO DATE 41–55 miles 4–6 hours We are always seeking opportunities to enhance this itinerary. We’ll be certain to notify you of any important changes prior to departure; other changes may be communicated on trip by your leaders. Review the “Route Rating” section on the web for more details on daily route options. 5 Day 5 Day 6 Biking Options: Leuca Route: 30 Miles* (900’ elevation gain) Heel-of-the-Boot Route: 58 Miles (1,800’) Porto Badisco Loop 10 Miles (200’ elevation gain) Shuttle to Lecce 1 Hour If you’re up for one more ride, hit the road early for a spin to beautiful Porto Badisco. There’s ample time to clean up before we shuttle to Lecce, a charming town known for its unique style of Baroque architecture called Barocco Leccese, which features intricate and ornate designs. If you don’t have a train to catch, consider taking our self-guided walking tour of the city. You’ll get a closer look at the elegant architecture of the old town, as well as Lecce’s churches, Roman theater and castle. Please see “Arriving & Departing” for end-oftrip logistics. *with shuttle Undulating hills, breathtaking coastal scenery, natural hot springs, otherworldly grottoes—we saved the best for last! Many Backroads guests have called today’s ride some of the best biking they’ve done in their lives. This southern route consists of several climbs and descents, and though the roads can be busy, the views are unbeatable. Have your camera ready for panoramic vistas of small fishing villages, sparkling beaches and green patches of pine. Pass through the villages of Santa Cesarea Terme, known for its natural thermal waters, and Ponte Ciolo, a popular place for cliff diving. Santa Maria de Leuca, located at the southernmost tip of Italy’s heel, is a pleasant place to have lunch on your own. Then you can either shuttle or ride back to the hotel along the coast. This evening we gather on the patio to toast a wonderful time in Puglia before sitting down to a farewell dinner and a healthy dose of traditional music and folk dancing. Lodging: Masseria Panareo Puglia Biking 6 Arriving & Departing PRICES & SCHEDULES See Day 1 for meeting time and location. All prices and schedules were current at the time of printing, but are subject to change at any time. Note that train schedules are subject to change unexpectedly, which may affect our trip meeting and/or ending time. Rest assured, we will notify you as soon as possible regarding changes to your trip in order to minimize any inconvenience to you. We appreciate your understanding and flexibility. FLIGHT ARRANGEMENTS We recommend flying into Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci Airport (airport code: FCO; www.adr.it) or Milan’s Linate Airport (LIN; www.sea-aeroportimilano.it); you can then catch a flight to Bari (BRI; www.aeroportidipuglia.it). There are no direct flights from Florence to Bari. If you don’t mind the longer travel time and the possibility of delays, you can take the train to Bari from Rome, Milan or Florence; see the following pages for details. All prices are in U.S. dollars and subject to change. The standard unit of currency in Italy is the euro. At the time of printing, 0.75 EUR = 1 USD. CONCLUSION OF THE TRIP The trip ends at 11:30 a.m. at the Lecce train station, in time for you to catch an afternoon train to Bari, Rome or other destinations. If you’re interested in taking the Eurostar train from Lecce to Rome (travel time is approximately 6 hours), please note that departure times from Lecce vary considerably from season to season; you may not be able to catch a direct train to Rome immediately at the trip’s end, although trains to other destinations are available. Please check the train schedules closer to the time of your departure and plan accordingly. For help arranging air transport to and from your Backroads trip, please work with your own travel agent or you may choose to work with the Backroads Travel Desk. Our expert travel advisors are ready to share their insiders’ knowledge of Backroads and our worldwide destinations. These professional agents are available to assist you with any of your travel needs. Call 800-GOACTIVE (462-2848) to be connected with an advisor. Please note that consulting or ticketing fees may apply, depending on the services requested. The Backroads Travel Desk is open Monday–Friday, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Pacific time. If you’re departing by air, your Backroads Trip Leaders can help you arrange transport from Lecce to the Brindisi airport. By taxi the trip costs approximately $150 and by train it’s approximately $12. Please allow at least 50 minutes to get to the airport. There are regular daily flights to Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci Airport (Fiumicino) and both of Milan’s airports (Malpensa and Linate). For current flight information and schedules, please consult the Brindisi page on Puglia’s airport website at www.aeroportidipuglia.it. GETTING FROM THE BARI AIRPORT TO THE BARI CENTRALE TRAIN STATION Bari’s airport is located about 7 miles from downtown Bari. Visit www.aeroportidipuglia.it for additional information on transportation. Taxis are available at the Arrivals hall; a trip into central Bari costs $30–$40 and takes about 25 minutes. Bus: The Tempesta Bus Company offers direct bus service to Bari’s Centrale train station; travel time is about 30 minutes and tickets cost approximately $6. AMTAB’s number 16 bus departs the airport regularly for the city center, 5 a.m.–9:30 p.m.; travel time is about 40 minutes and tickets cost about $1. 7 Climate Southern Italy has a Mediterranean climate, characterized by hot dry summers and mild winters. During the spring and fall, daytime temperatures are usually pleasant and warm, while evenings tend to be cool. Although Puglia receives little rain, we highly recommend bringing lightweight breathable rain gear—just in case! Please see “Suggested Packing List” in your Travel Planner for more details on clothing and gear. Bari TAKING THE TRAIN TO BARI FROM ROME, MILAN OR FLORENCE From Rome: There are five daily departures from Rome’s Termini station to Bari. The trip takes 4–5 hours on the Eurostar Italia; tickets start at $75. Please note that in order to make our 11 a.m. meeting time, you may need to travel to Bari the day before the trip starts. From Milan or Florence: If you take the train to Bari from Milan or Florence, you’ll need to travel to Bari the day before the trip starts. The ride from Milan’s Centrale station to Bari takes 8 hours and tickets start at around $120. Travel time from Florence’s Santa Maria Novella station to Bari (using Eurostar trains and connecting through Rome) is 6–8 hours. Tickets also start at about $120. Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun High °F 54 54 58 63 71 78 Low °F 41 41 44 48 55 62 Precip. inches 1.9 2.3 2.1 1.9 1.3 1.3 Average: Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec High °F 83 83 78 70 61 56 Low °F 67 67 62 56 48 43 Precip. inches 1.1 1.5 2.4 2.5 2.0 2.5 Temperatures in Europe are measured in degrees Celsius. Zero degrees Celsius is 32 degrees Fahrenheit. For a quick conversion when you’re traveling in Italy, double the Celsius reading and add 30 to determine the approximate temperature in degrees Fahrenheit. Please note that train schedules are subject to change; it’s a good idea to verify the schedule closer to your time of travel. See the following page for information on purchasing tickets, making reservations and more. Puglia Biking Average: 8 Where to Stay Before & After Your Trip For help making hotel reservations for before and after your Backroads trip, please work with your own travel agent, or you may choose to work with the Backroads Travel Desk. Call 800-GO-ACTIVE (462-2848) to be connected with an advisor. Please note that consulting or ticketing fees may apply, depending on the services requested. The Backroads Travel Desk is open Monday– Friday, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Pacific time. Of course, we also recommend extending your stay at any of the hotels we visit on this trip; see the accommodations sidebar for details. BARI Boscolo Bari Built in 1932 on the central downtown waterfront, this heritage hotel’s recent facelift combines the historical charm of elegant wood floors and high ceilings with soothing beach tones and contemporary luxury touches. The first and only five-star hotel in Bari features a rooftop restaurant with rich regional cuisine and breathtaking views. (pool, spa) | Lungomare Nazario Sauro 7 | www.bari.boscolohotels.com | 800-80998099 (from the U.S.) or +39-080-5920111 | 115 rooms & suites | Rates: Refer to the Hotel Room Rate Guide for starting doubleoccupancy rates. Note that the chart reflects the internet and/or best available rates, which were accurate at the time of printing, but hotel rates are always subject to change. Also be aware that some hotels may require a minimum stay. We recommend that you consult directly with the hotels for specific details, as these requirements can change depending on the season and time of the week. Book early, especially during peak travel season! Palace Hotel Keep in mind that even in first-class hotels, rooms may be smaller than those in typical U.S. hotels. Rooms on the street tend to be noisy, so you might want to request a room overlooking the hotel’s garden or courtyard. Bari’s largest hotel features a rooftop restaurant, fitness center, and a friendly multilingual staff that provides impeccable service. It’s ideally situated in the city center, making it a great base for exploring Bari’s historic old city and its remarkable cathedrals. | Via Francesco Lombardi 13 | www.palacehotelbari.it | +39080-5216551 | 195 rooms & suites | Rates: Mercure Villa Romanazzi Carducci Embracing the “everything perfect” philosophy, the warm and welcoming staff at Villa Romanazzi Carducci will surely make you want to stay a few extra days. Wander the romantic garden pathways and you’ll come across the estate’s original noble residence from 1885 (now a conference hall). Don’t forget to try the homemade pastries from the extensive buffet breakfast or savor the creative cuisine at restaurant Carducci. (pool) | Via Capruzzi 326 | www.villaromanazzi.it | +39-0805575265 | 123 rooms & suites | Rates: 9 Oriente Hotel well-stocked wine cellar. | Via Salandra 6 | www.hotelpresidentlecce.it | +39-0832-456111 | 150 rooms & suites | Rates: This distinctive Art Nouveau hotel was recently renovated to seamlessly blend modern comforts with the grandeur and panache of 1920s Europe. Named after the nearby Porta d’Oriente (or “Eastern Gate”), one of Bari’s most well-known landmarks, the Oriente Hotel is within walking distance of the city’s main sites. After you’ve explored Bari by foot, take in the sights from above with a bottle of wine on the panoramic rooftop terrace. | Corso Cavour 32 | www.orientehotelbari.com | +39-080-5255100 | 75 rooms & suites | Rates: ROME Hotel Hassler Roma Hotel Hassler shines with gorgeous panoramic views and superb service. You’ll find the hotel atop the Spanish Steps, just a stone’s throw from the stunning Borghese Gardens and many other attractions. With a state-of-the-art fitness facility, Michelin-starred Imágo restaurant, exquisitely decorated guest rooms and a romantic ambience, it’s no wonder that it’s considered one of the world’s finest hotels by industry mavens. (spa) | Condé Nast Traveler Gold List 2013; Travel + Leisure World’s Best Award 2013 | Piazza Trinità dei Monti 6 | www.hotelhasslerroma.com | +39-0669934755 | 95 rooms & suites | Rates: Parco dei Principi Hotel Congress & Spa Conveniently located just outside the airport, this ecoconscious and modern hotel lies within the Lama Balice Regional Park, an area of natural Mediterranean scrub that the hotel has largely restored. With chemical-free wood, natural-fiber carpets and plenty of sunlight, you’ll rest easy in this airy retreat. (pool, spa) | Prolungamento Viale Europa 6 | www.parcodeiprincipibari.it | +39080-5394881 | 231 rooms & suites | Rates: Hotel Sole al Pantheon Best known for its outstanding view of the Pantheon, Hotel Sole is one of Rome’s oldest hotels, in operation since 1467. Guest rooms are simply decorated with antique wooden beds and arched doorways, accented by restored 15th-century hand-painted ceilings. Charm and history aside, the hotel’s true value lies in its prime location. Ask for a room away from the piazza if you’re sensitive to noise. (spa) | Piazza della Rotonda 63 | www.hotelsolealpantheon.com | +39-066-780441 | 31 rooms & suites | Rates: LECCE Patria Palace Hotel Conveniently located less than a mile from the train station, this lovely four-star hotel charms with a wonderful staff, individually decorated rooms with frescoes, a rooftop solarium overlooking the city, and a bar and restaurant. | Piazzetta Riccardi 13 | www.patriapalacelecce.com | +39-0832-245111 | 63 rooms & suites | Rates: Capo d’Africa Risorgimento Resort This hotel benefits from a great locale just steps from the Colosseum, between the Forum and Domus Aurea palace. Bright furnishings, original modern art, a rooftop terrace and a charming garden make it a welcoming place to return to at day’s end. | Via Capo d’Africa 54 | www.hotelcapodafrica.com | +39-067-72801 | 65 rooms & suites | Rates: Close to the Duomo and other attractions, the Risorgimento provides comfort and plenty of modern conveniences. Spacious guest rooms come with flatscreen televisions, desks and Internet access. Its restaurants range from fine dining at Le Quattro Speziere to bistro fare at Dogana Vecchia and casual eats at rooftop Altavilla. After exploring Lecce, chill out at the Turkish baths. (spa) | Via Augusto Imperatore 19 | www.risorgimentoresort.it | +39-0832-246311 | 47 rooms & suites | Rates: Hotel Alimandi Tunisi If you’d like to stay close to the Vatican Museums, an Alimandi brothers’ hotel may be the perfect choice. Hotel Alimandi Tunisi, the original establishment, has “Roman kitsch” décor, with frescoes, statuary, illuminated fountains and even a white baby grand piano. Take in the spectacular view of St. Peter’s Basilica while enjoying breakfast on the hotel’s veranda. | Via Tunisi 8 | www.alimanditunisi.com | +39-063-9723941 | 35 rooms | Rates: Hotel President Situated in the heart of the new city, a short walk from the old city center, the peaceful and contemporary Hotel President offers a knowledgeable and friendly staff along with large guest rooms. Its Myosotis restaurant specializes in traditional Pugliese dishes and has a Puglia Biking 10 www.bestwestern.com | 800-780-7234 (from the U.S.) or +39-064-457770 | 70 rooms | Rates: SPECIAL HOTEL SAVINGS Hotel Santa Maria Backroads has negotiated special rates for our guests at many hotels around the world. To find hotels with these exclusive Backroads savings, please visit www.backroads.com/hotelsavings. Set in the Trastevere quarter, this former 16th-century convent is within walking distance of Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Navona. Few tourists venture to the Trastevere, a wonderful neighborhood with a bohemian spirit, tiny streets, artisan shops, great restaurants and an active nightlife. Owners Paolo and Valentina have created a romantic retreat complete with cheery guest rooms, a cozy breakfast area and a wine bar. | Vicolo del Piede 2 | www.htlsantamaria.com | +39-065894626 | 18 rooms | Rates: Hotel Alimandi Vaticano Located across from the Tunisi is the luxurious Hotel Alimandi Vaticano, whose spacious Liberty-style guest rooms face the Vatican Museums’ entrance. A rooftop terrace offers views over the Vatican walls. | Viale Vaticano 99 | www.alimandivaticanohotel.com | +39063-9745562 | 24 rooms & suites | Rates: FLORENCE St. Regis Florence Hotel Splendide Royal One of Europe’s finest hotels, the historic Grand Hotel reopens as St. Regis Florence after a complete renovation in 2011. This Florence landmark displays a noble Renaissance style highlighted by lavish Italian fabrics, ornate brass chandeliers, marble details and frescoes spanning the guest room walls. The extraordinary staff ensures that your every need is met. For an even more special stay, request a room with a view of the Arno River. (spa) | Travel + Leisure World’s Best Award 2013. Piazza Ognissanti 1 | www.stregisflorence.com | +39055-27161 | 100 rooms & suites | Rates: This boutique hotel housed in a 19th-century palace features extravagant guest rooms and an elegant warm feel. It’s situated near Villa Borghese, three blocks from the Spanish Steps. Don’t miss dining at the Michelinstarred rooftop restaurant, Mirabelle. | Via di Porta Pinciana 14 | www.splendideroyal.com | +39-06421689 | 69 rooms & suites | Rates: Hotel Teatro di Pompeo This quaint, simple property resembles a Tuscan farmhouse, with wood-beam ceilings and red-tile floors. It was constructed over the ruins of the Theatre of Pompey, the site on which Julius Caesar was assassinated in 44 B.C. One section of the theater excavation includes a cave-like room that now serves as a breakfast nook. Guest rooms are spacious, pleasant and quiet. | Largo del Pallaro 8 | www.hotelteatrodipompeo.it | +39-066-872812 | 13 rooms | Rates: Hotel Regency This Leading Small Hotels of the World member has the feel of an exclusive private villa, with luxury accommodations and a tranquil setting. The hotel overlooks Piazza d’Azeglio, framed by monasteries, ancient cloisters and famous museums. A retreat for high government officials and ministers of state when Florence was Italy’s capital, the Regency still serves as a serene escape from the city’s hustle and bustle. | Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio 3 | www.regency-hotel.com | +39055-245247 | 32 rooms & suites | Rates: Mecenate Palace Hotel A few blocks from the Termini train station, this 19thcentury home offers clean modern rooms and fantastic views of the Colosseum and Santa Maria Basilica from the rooftop garden terrace. | Via Carlo Alberto 3 | www.mecenatepalace.com | +39-064-4702024 | 72 rooms & suites | Rates: Hotel Savoy With one of Florence’s most enviable addresses on Piazza della Repubblica, just steps from the Duomo, Hotel Savoy wins over guests not only with its outstanding location, but also with superior service. The décor of white chaise lounges, brightly colored pillows, graphic prints, sleek glass and steel furniture appeals to those who appreciate playful yet elegant contemporary design. Request a room at the corner or on the top floor Best Western Hotel Canada Built in 1870 to house the officials of Castro Pretorio and conveniently situated near the Termini train station, this Best Western offers air-conditioned guest rooms and breakfast with your stay. | Via Vicenza 58 | 11 for spectacular city views. | Piazza della Repubblica 7 | www.hotelsavoy.it | 888-667-9477 (from the U.S.) or +39-055-27351 | 102 rooms & suites | Rates: J.K. Place This delightful and unexpected find, ready to treat you with “precious details and impeccable service,” is situated in the heart of Florence on Piazza Santa Maria Novella. Chic cream-and-gray furnishings and fashionable 1950s-style lamps combine with traditional elements, such as classical sculptures and a marble Louis XVI fireplace, to exude old-world warmth. After a day out, retreat to this industry insider favorite to relax and take in the view from the rooftop terrace. | Piazza Santa Maria Novella 7 | www.jkplace.com | +39-0552645181 | 20 rooms | Rates: www.niccolinidomepalace.com | +39-055-282412 | 16 rooms & suites | Rates: Relais Uffizi Room Mate Isabella This Karen Brown’s Guides-recommended inn offers modest rooms, a friendly atmosphere and an unbeatable location. Stumble out of bed and you’re in the beautiful Piazza della Signoria, within easy walking distance of museums and other points of interest. This cozy family-run hotel is so informal you may feel like you’re staying at the home of old friends. Guest rooms are furnished with antiques, and vary in shape and size. Street noise is to be expected in such a prime spot, so keep this in mind if you’re a light sleeper. | Chiasso del Buco 16 | www.relaisuffizi.it | +39-055-2676239 | 13 rooms | Rates: A former gathering place for European literati, this delightful hotel is in a recently renovated classic 19thcentury building. Light wood floors and lilac carpets provide a fresh lift, while classic Florentine furnishings combine with modern fabrics to lend a warm air to spacious guest rooms. With a superb location on the fashionable Via Tornabuoni overlooking the magnificent Palazzo Strozzi, the hotel is a great base from which to explore this fascinating city. | Via Tornabuoni 13 | www.isabella.room-matehotels.com | +39-0552396464 | 23 rooms & suites | Rates: Davanzati Hotel Hotel Il Guelfo Bianco The three-star Davanzati is a wonderful family-run hotel earning accolades for its attentive helpful staff. The décor is pared-down Tuscan elegance with terra-cotta tile floors and wrought iron beds. It’s housed in a typical 15th-century Florentine building right next to the Museo Palazzo Davanzati. | Via Porta Rossa 5 | www.hoteldavanzati.it | +39-055-286666 | 21 rooms & suites | Rates: If you’re looking for pleasant no-frills accommodations in the heart of Florence, the Guelfo Bianco—just 200 yards from the Duomo—is hard to beat. Individually decorated guest rooms—many overlooking the quiet courtyards and roofs of the Via Larga—feature marbletopped desks, antiques and exposed-beam ceilings. Some rooms feature painted wood or frescoed ceilings and carved wooden doorways. On the ground floor you’ll find a bar and a reading room. | Via Cavour 29 | www.ilguelfobianco.it | +39-055-288330 | 40 rooms | Rates: Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo In 1532 the Naldini family began transforming a collection of 14th-century houses near Piazza del Duomo into this lavish palazzo. Painstakingly preserved 18th-century frescoes, antique furniture and plush décor give the hotel an almost museum-like quality, yet a welcoming atmosphere pervades. Its prime centro storico address is another plus: the Duomo can be seen from many of the hotel windows. | Via dei Servi 2 | Puglia Biking Johanna & Johlea While Florence has no shortage of outstanding hotels, it’s also full of charming and elegant residence inns. We recommend any of the Johanna & Johlea properties. All offer superb locations in unique buildings (a 19thcentury villa, for instance, or a 1920s garden townhouse), attentive staff, lovely furnishings and a warm 12 ambience. Please note that credit cards are not accepted at any of the Johanna & Johlea residences listed below. The properties are not staffed overnight, so you must check in by 7 p.m. Because Johanna & Johlea are such great finds in the city center, advance booking is key to securing a reservation; visit www.johanna.it for more information. functionality and minimalism warm, inviting and elegant, with industrial materials such as concrete, metal and slate at the center of the design. If you’re drawn to the artsy and out-of-the-ordinary, Hotel Straf will win you over. | Via San Raffaele 3 | www.straf.it | +39-02-805081 | 64 rooms & suites | Rates: Antica Dimora Firenze: Via San Gallo 72 | +39-0554627296 | 6 rooms | Rates: The Westin Palace features plush spacious guest rooms with classic Italian décor and Empire-style antiques. And you can look forward to those excellent signature Westin beds and showers. The fitness center is firstclass, with the latest equipment, four treatment rooms and Turkish baths for men and women. | Piazza della Repubblica 20 | www.westinpalacemilan.com | +39-0263361 | 228 rooms & suites | Rates: The Westin Palace Residenza Johlea & Antica Dimora Johlea: Via San Gallo 76 & 80 | +39-055-4633292 | 12 rooms | Rates: Residenza Johanna I: Via Bonifacio Lupi 14 | +39-055481896 | 11 rooms | Rates: Residenza Johanna II: Via Cinque Giornate 12 | +39055-473377 | 7 rooms | Rates: Antica Locanda Leonardo This family-run boutique hotel sits on the exclusive Corso Magenta in Milan’s old quarter. Just a short walk away is the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, home to da Vinci’s The Last Supper. Individually decorated rooms with polished wood floors overlook a peaceful courtyard. | Corso Magenta 78 | www.anticalocandaleonardo.com | +39-02-48014197 | 20 rooms | Rates: Tourist House Ghiberti Superbly located behind the Duomo, this guest house is named for Renaissance sculptor Lorenzo Ghiberti, who crafted Florence’s baptistery doors and whose studio was once located just below the hotel. Owners Christelle and Claudio, longtime hoteliers, have attended to every detail. Modern touches include keyless entries, a computer with free Internet access in every room, a sauna and a whirlpool. | Via Maurizio Bufalini 1 | www.touristhouseghiberti.com | +39-055-284858 | 5 rooms | Rates: First Hotel Malpensa Airport Make catching that early flight from Malpensa Airport hassle-free. Located between Terminals 1 and 2, this contemporary hotel offers all the amenities you need, including a lobby bar and restaurant. Rooms are comfortably furnished and soundproofed. A private shuttle service is available for travel between the hotel and both terminals. | Via Baracca 34 | www.firsthotel.it | +39-03-31717045 | 60 rooms | Rates: MILAN Four Seasons Hotel Milano Ranked as one of the best hotels in the world by industry experts, the Four Seasons offers exactly what you’d expect from this luxury hotel chain: exceptional service, exquisite accommodations, and a new, highly anticipated spa. Originally a 15th-century convent, the hotel has a magnificent colonnaded courtyard and a sophisticated décor of restored original frescoes, granite columns, vaulted ceilings, and parquet and terrazzo floors. If you plan to stay here during Fashion Week, book your room far in advance. (spa) | Travel + Leisure World’s Best Award 2013 | Via Gesù 6/8 | www.fourseasons.com/milan | +39-02-77088 | 118 rooms & suites | Rates: Hotel Ariston Situated near the Duomo, the three-star Hotel Ariston offers a casual atmosphere. Its “bio-architectural” construction features natural materials and ionized air circulation throughout the building. Use one of their free bikes to explore the city. | Largo Carrobbio 2 | www.aristonhotel.com | +39-02-72000556 | 52 rooms | Rates: Hotel Lancaster Within easy reach of the city sights from its setting in the tranquil residential district of Sempione, the Lancaster’s classical contemporary-style guest rooms feature cherry wood furniture, satellite television, airconditioning, a minibar and bathroom with marble tile. Hotel Straf You’re sure to have a memorable stay at the Straf— slang for St. Raffaele, the property’s fantastic address. The innovative style manages to make high-tech 13 | Via Abbondio Sangiorgio 16 | www.hotellancaster.it | +39-02-344705 | 30 rooms | Rates: cobbled, twisting, strung with flapping laundry and full of character. Its coastline is rimmed with black volcanic beaches and battered old fishing boats. Part of the island’s charm is its authenticity, so don’t expect to find big hotels and fancy restaurants here. Hotel Sanpi Milano This modern boutique hotel provides a great location near the historic center with convenient access to the metro. It features contemporary art by Ercole Pignatelli. Most rooms overlook a private garden and all suites have whirlpool tubs. | Via Lazzaro Palazzi 18 | www.hotelsanpimilano.it | +39-02-29513341 | 79 rooms | Rates: Matera For an extraordinary day trip, rent a car in Bari (or travel from the Bari Centrale train station via the private Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane line) and head to Matera, a World Heritage site recognized as “the most outstanding, intact example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean region.” Sound intriguing? What looks to be a typical Italian hill town is actually a network of cave dwellings, from individual cells to more spacious churches and chapels. Originally constructed in the Middle Ages by monks hiding from foreign invaders, the caves in succeeding years attracted residents from throughout the region. In 1952, there were 15,000 people living in i sassi (stones), as the caves came to be known. That same year, the government declared these grottoes unhealthy and closed them down. Today many of the homes and churches have been restored, and tourism is beginning to find Matera. Mel Gibson’s The Passion of the Christ was filmed here and you can take a tour of the locations where the film was shot (www.sassiweb.com). EXTENDING YOUR VACATION Lecce & Otranto Want to explore Puglia a little further? Dubbed “the Florence of the South,” Lecce is a scenic town with some of the most ornate Baroque architecture in Europe. The malleable local sandstone gave rise to the town’s unique style of architecture, Barocco Leccese. Spend a day strolling through the quiet streets, watch artisans at their craft, dine on local delicacies and study the many captivating facades. While you’re in the area, consider a visit to nearby Otranto (30 miles south), a charming port town known as the “East Gate,” with a well-preserved historic center and brightly painted houses. Beautiful beaches, interesting historical structures (the castle is the subject of Horace Walpole’s gothic novel, The Castle of Otranto), St. Peter’s Basilica and ferry access to Greece and Albania make Otranto an appealing detour. Amalfi Coast After your Backroads vacation, consider traveling to the classic Italian paradise of the Amalfi Coast. Take advantage of an unforgettable opportunity to envision life during the heyday of the Romans and consider a visit to Pompeii or Herculaneum. There’s so much to see at Pompeii, you’ll probably want to spend close to a full day at the site in order to fully appreciate this amazing archaeological discovery. Herculaneum, on the Bay of Naples, is a much smaller site that can be explored in a couple of hours. A ferry ride away is the famous Isle of Capri, playground of the rich and famous. If you’d like to venture farther from the crowds, enjoy a scenic boat ride to beautiful Procida. This tiny and unpretentious Neapolitan island, accessible by ferry or hydrofoil from Naples, provides a taste of old-world Italy with relatively few foreign tourists. Easily explored in just a few hours, Procida (where The Talented Mr. Ripley and Il Postino were filmed) is packed with faded crumbling houses of every pastel hue imaginable. Its streets are Puglia Biking 14