Lagos is already the largest city in West Africa and with a metro

written by and photographed by Bob Burch
A raised boardwalk meanders through a section of pristine lagoon
wetlands right in the heart of Lagos.
The heartbeat of
West Africa
Lagos is already the largest city in West Africa and with a metro population of about
8 million,is growing by an estimated 30,000 per month as more and more rural folk
seek their fortunes in the city.
1.Visitors can take
boat trips on
the Lagos lagoon.
A variety of craft
are available for
hire at marinas
on Victoria island.
50 Msafiri issue 35
And here is definitely where the money is. The
contrast in lifestyles is evident throughout the three
principal districts of the city: Lagos Island, Victoria
Island and Ikoyi Island. In reality the city extends
far beyond these districts, encompassing every dry
patch of land north to the airport and beyond. And
though not featured in guidebooks, there are also
thriving enclaves of ‘stilt villages’ built over the
surrounding lagoons.
Some visitors opt for a hotel near the airport.
The Sheraton lives up to its name while the less
expensive Airport Hotel has a distinctly Nigerian
flavour. Many visitors prefer the popular 5-star
Eko Meridian Hotel (standard rooms starting from
$220 single or double). It is
unquestionably the best hotel
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in Lagos, situated on upscale
Victoria Island – home to
numerous mansions and
embassies. There is an excellent
mini-market just outside the
hotel gates featuring Nigerian
crafts and a hoard of moneychangers who compete to give
you the best exchange on
Western currencies to Naira
(about 120N to the US$ and
175N to £Sterling at the time
of going to press). The 4-star
Federal Palace Hotel, once the
‘in-spot’ for wealthy Nigerians,
has recently undergone a much needed facelift and
is also being expanded. It hugs the Victoria shore of
Five Cowrie Creek (actually a wide river) and has
a nice view of the business district skyline.
The city embraces the whole gamut of
foreign cuisine with French, Italian,
Chinese, Indian and Thai restaurants.
On the leisure side
While business travellers are usually ‘stuck’
in Lagos, many tourists also arrive and depart
here. Either type will find plenty to do in the city
during free time. Nigeria is composed of three
main indigenous groups of people: the Hausa in
the north, the Igbo to the east and the Yoruba in
the southwest. Lagos is the heartland of the Yoruba
and is rich in traditional and cultural festivals.
You might observe an Eyo festival, associated
with funerals of high-ranked people. Lagos has a
traditional chief called an Oba. His palace is located
near the southern tip of Lagos Island and has been
the official residence of the Obas of Lagos since
1670.A modern wing was added to the palace
in 1960.Visitors can obtain permission from the
Oba’s personal secretary to visit the palace.
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2.A view of the Lagos
skyline as seen from
the verandah of the
President Hotel.
3. Christ Church
Cathedral.
The Portuguese left an indelible mark on the
city. Colonial architecture is abundant in the old
Brazilian Quarter on Lagos Island, where repatriated
slaves from Brazil established a thriving merchant
community. Remnants of these structures, with
their arched doors and windows and ironwork
balustrades, are today occupied by shops, offices
and taverns. Nearby is the vibrant Tinubu Square,
named after a wealthy matron. Tinubu marks the
very centre of the business district.A short walk
to Marina St. brings you to Christ Church Cathedral,
built in 1925 and dedicated by the Prince of Wales
(later King George VII) when Nigeria was under
British rule.
With an afternoon to spare, the National
Museum, located near Tafawa Balewa Square,
houses impressive collections of old terracotta,
bronzeworks, ivory, traditional musical instruments,
costumes and masks. Reproductions and crafts can
be found in the museum shop, including pottery,
masks, carvings, textiles, baskets, bags, and
ceremonial costumes and artifacts. The museum
also has a good restaurant with a menu that features
local cuisine. The National Gallery of Modern Arts
in the Theatre Complex is another venue, where
modern works from leading Nigerian artists are
on display, along with the National Gallery of Crafts
and Design which displays African crafts. Souvenir
shoppers will also want to visit the Jankara Market
which features African trade beads, tie-dye and
indigo cloth, popular Nigerian music CDs, carvings
and even a fetish market with all kinds of
‘juju’ paraphernalia.
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Pulsing nightlife is a Lagos hallmark. The city
reputedly has more jazz joints and nightclubs
than Accra, Dakar, Lomé, Cotonou and Abidjan
combined. Not to be missed is the Ariya Night
Club near the main airport, the ‘juju joint’ of
King Sonny Ade, one of Nigeria’s musical heroes.
Another famous club is The Shrine (near the
domestic airport), owned by the legendary Fela.
Though he died in 1997, his music lives on. On
Victoria Island, new clubs spring up nearly every
month. Popular spots include Motherland Jazz,
Club Towers, K’s Place and the Coliseum. Since the
nightlife only gets going after 11:00 pm, you can
enjoy a late dinner. There is no lack of restaurants
to please just about any taste buds. For local flavour,
try Nigerian food at various bukaterias and other
‘joints’.A popular delicacy is pepper soup. The city
embraces the whole gamut of foreign cuisine
with French, Italian, Chinese, Indian and Thai
restaurants.Adopting some of the West’s habits,
fast food burger spots are also popping up in every
part of the city – just the thing when you need
a quick bite to tide you over.
issue 35 Msafiri 51
The heartbeat of West Africa
4. The Mobee Family
Museum contains
the grave of one
of Nigeria’s most
notorious slavers,
and relics of the slave
trade such as chains
and leg irons.
5. Bar Beach in Lagos
is one of the best
places to be on the
weekend, when it
becomes a virtual
playground for
Nigerians and
foreigners from
all walks of life.
6. Olumu Rock is a
revered landmark in
the city of Abeokuta
and is thought to give
the people of the
region protection
and strength.
Surrounded by water, Lagos has several hideaways where one can relax and pass an afternoon
while sipping a Club or Star beer. Located on
Victoria Island near Eleke Crescent, the Paradise
Holiday Resort specialises in renting boats, and
has a courtyard with several restaurants. Less
glamorous is the Tarzan Marina near the Maroko
Police Station, where the drinks are cold and you
can rent a Sea-Doo, go water skiing or charter a
boat for a cruise on the lagoon. Cruising the lagoon
is a novel alternative to the terror of the roads.
Passing the huge port, you are confronted with
real evidence of the Lagos economy. A panorama
of container ships and oil tankers line the shore.
Luxury yachts with powerful diesels share the
waterways with humble canoes; hillside homes
are punctuated by shoreline shacks.
Lagos is blessed with a year-round
tropical climate. Gentle breezes from
the nearby ocean stave off the humidity
and make the heat bearable.
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Nature lovers will also enjoy a stroll along
the walkways of the Lekki Conservation Centre,
established by the Nigerian Conservation
Foundation with help from Chevron Petroleum.
A raised boardwalk meanders through a section
of pristine lagoon wetlands right in the heart of
Lagos. Local residents include tortoises, crocodiles,
monkeys and numerous species of birds.
Weekend retreats
Lagos is blessed with a year-round tropical
climate. Gentle breezes from the nearby ocean
stave off the humidity and make the heat bearable.
One is tempted to explore some of the beautiful
beaches that are easily accessible throughout the
city. During the week however, it’s a good idea to
use the hotel pool and avoid the public beaches.
Bar Beach on Victoria Island is a Lagos landmark.
Authorities ordered the destruction of numerous
shacks and shanty-bars several years ago in an
effort to improve its image with visitors. This edict
helped clean up the beach area. Pilfering and petty
crimes make Bar Beach an unattractive spot during
the week. On weekends, however, thousands flock
to the beach in a mutual love of sun, sea and sand.
Skin colour and social status dissolve as masses
of sun worshipers picnic and sunbathe, making it
impossible for the ‘area boys’ to exact their tolls.
Vendors roam the beach selling shish kabab,
fruit, soft drinks and beer, as the worldbeat of
Nigerian Hi-Life music explodes from a hundred
boom boxes.
Other weekend beach spots include Tarkwa
Beach and Lighthouse Beach, both of which are
about a half hour away. The best way to reach
them is by water taxis, which can be rented near
Eleke Crescent opposite the U.S. Embassy on
Victoria Island.
The sleepy town of Badagry lies about an
hour’s drive west of Lagos. Once an important
transit point for the slave trade, community fathers
are putting their faith in Heritage and Ecotourism
for an economic revival. In close proximity to the
border of Benin, Badagry is also blessed with
pristine ocean beaches and calm lagoons. The new
Suntan Beach Resort is an initiative that locals are
proud of. There are 10 chalets and an assortment
of inexpensive ‘family huts’.About 5 miles down
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7. The Whispering
Palms Resort is a
peaceful retreat
located on the shore
of the Badagry
lagoon.
8. Strolling the textile
market of Abeokuta,
you can find
numerous examples
of traditional Adire
cloth made with
indigo dyes.
the road near Ajido Town is the Whispering Palms
Resort, situated on the pastoral Badagry lagoon.
With 44 rooms starting from about $40/night, the
emphasis is on a rural setting with nature trails
and boat rides on the lagoon. It also has an animal
compound with monkeys, baboons, crocodiles,
lizards and an aviary.At Whispering Palms you
can combine the peace and tranquillity of the
country with an intimate view into the lives of
the local Ogu people who are mainly fishermen
and farmers. Badagry is usually a stop on tour
itineraries as well.
of local gods and goddesses, including many deities
that inhabit lakes, lagoons and rivers; thus many of
the themes imitate water. The introduction of
stencils and hand-painted ‘resist’ designs have
added further complexity. Sadly, the process has
been eroded over the years and few artisans still
practice the old methods. Indigo has succumbed
to cheaper and more available synthetic dyes, but a
few of the elders still use real indigo.Adire remains
a popular item with tourists seeking a uniquely
Nigerian souvenir. On the weekend you will find
stalls at the Itoku Market. Be sure to explore the
narrow alleys where some of the best bargains are
to be had. Careful searching in Abeokuta may also
reward you with older woodcarvings of exquisite
masks and Yoruba effigies – especially small
statuettes worn by women who have given birth
to twins. Twins are thought to be imbued with
special powers.
Adventures in Abeokuta
An hour north of Lagos is the city of Abeokuta,
the birthplace of Nigeria’s incumbent president
Obasanjo.Abeokuta means ‘under the rock’, derived
from the Olumu Rock,Abeokuta’s major landmark.
The caves around the rocks offered sanctuary to
locals during the days of inter-tribal wars. Then
and now, the Egba people, who inhabit the area,
worship them in the belief that they derive
natural strength and protection from supreme
beings. Nigeria is infatuated with landmark rocks
throughout the country, but Abeokuta is perhaps
best known for its local artistry.
Adire cloth is made with indigo in a tie-dye
process that is over a century old. Older cloths
have become sought-after items by leading
museums, including the prestigious Smithsonian
Institute in Washington D.C. The fabrics are
characterised by patterns of blue wavy lines,
whorls, cowrie shells and geometric designs –
each of which has a specific meaning or tells a
story. The Yoruba people have a complex divinity
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issue 35 Msafiri 53
The heartbeat of West Africa
Like any country, the more one penetrates into the
rural areas, the friendlier the people become.
9. The pottery of
Abeokuta comes in all
shapes and sizes –
from purely
functional vessels to
objects used in sacred
rituals.
10. The Abeokuta golf
course and holiday
resort is set in a
scenic valley on
carefully maintained
grounds.
Abeokuta pottery is another product of
the region. Several years ago the voodoo santaria
cults of Cuba brought consecrated Yoruba statues
or orishas, from Nigeria to Cuba in earthen jars
made in Abeokuta. Like other forms of African
religion that survived in the New World, santaria
has its origins in the Yoruba lands of Nigeria.
A pleasant way to end a day or begin a morning
in Abeokuta is with a round of golf. The fairly new
Abeokuta Golf Club and Holiday Resort is just
outside town. Set in a beautiful valley, the clubhouse
rests on a hilltop overlooking the elaborate 18-hole
course in a natural landscape. There is a pro shop
where guests can rent clubs and hire a caddy.
The course is popular with both visitors and
locals from Lagos seeking a quiet venue away
from the city.Year 2000 saw the first ‘Business
Golf Links Challenge’ destined to be repeated
in the autumn of 2001. Future plans call
for expansion of the grounds to include
accommodation and facilities for conferences.
For now, visitors can find comfortable
accommodation at the 3-star Gateway Hotel
in Abeokuta with rooms starting at about
US$40 a night.
A new road for Nigerian tourism
Nigeria has much to offer tourists and current
efforts are focused upon private initiatives to
develop new hotels and resorts with an emphasis
on ecotourism in the sphere of historical, cultural,
wildlife and adventure tours. Like any country,
the more one penetrates into the rural areas,
the friendlier the people become. Even Lagos is
overwhelmingly friendly, but like any big city, it
attracts its fair share of scoundrels and unethical
people who prey on strangers and people in
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vulnerable positions. Never take valuables to the
beach and stay in the better hotels where there
are security personnel.Avoid driving yourself
and make sure your escort has fueled your vehicle
in advance. The ongoing petrol shortage crisis
mean long queues at filling stations.
ECOWAS (West African) member states
do not need a visa for Nigeria but nearly
everyone else does.An archaic idea requiring a
‘letter of invitation’ is a hangover from former
administrations. But things are loosening up: most
consulates and embassies will now accept a letter of
invitation in the form of an email printout and there
is discussion about revamping visa requirements
for tourists.
The heartbeat of West Africa
Main Picture:
A Haunsa musician
from the north
playing a traditional
horn.
11. The Yoruba
fishermen of Nigeria’s
south west, live on the
banks of lagoons and
ship their catch to the
waiting markets in
nearby Lagos.
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The internet is rapidly becoming a valuable
tool for new avenues of commerce in Nigeria.
Websites will go far in exposing the many
attractions the country has to offer visitors.
Under the theme:‘Nigeria – the Giant in the
Sun’, the government is making its presence
felt at more and more international travel fairs.
In December 2000, Nigeria played host to the
Africa Travel Association’s Fourth Eco-Tourism
Symposium where public and private sectors
explored ways to market Nigeria abroad while
creating and reinforcing sustainable ecotourism
activities at home. One operator who has been
in business for over 20 years is Ladi Jemi-Alade
who organises both individual and group
excursions to all parts of Nigeria with an
emphasis on cultural and wildlife activities.
Fact File
Jemi-Alade Tours
PO Box 3794 Ikeja Lagos Nigeria
Telephone/Fax: +234 (0)1 496 0297/496 3301
Email: jemi-alade@alpha.linkserve.com
Kenya Airways flies from Nairobi to Lagos on
Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays & Sundays.
Contact your local Kenya Airways office
(see page 84) or travel agent for further details.
Travellers between Lagos and Nairobi will be able
to experience 21st century travel by means of the
brand new Boeing 767.
(All prices quoted are correct at time of going to press).
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