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durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:26 PM Page 40
durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:26 PM Page 40 DURGA PU durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:26 PM Page 41 Durga is one of the most revered and respected, even feared, goddesses of India. Though she is popular everywhere in the UJA country, under different names and forms, but nowhere else is Durga as commanding as in West Bengal. Each autumn, the entire state takes on a new look to celebrate the 10-day Durga Pujas. The festival is the event on the annual calendar of every denizen of Kolkata as well as we try to find out in this photofeature. Text and photos by Shashi Sahai. durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:26 PM Page 42 durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:27 PM Page 43 Every locality worth its salt puts up a pandal (tent) with its own idol of Durga. Thousands of pandals come up all over Kolkata, each trying to outdo the other in novelty, aesthetics as well as spirituality. Bose Pukur’s Sitala Mandir Puja famous for its innovation and new themes each year, this year’s theme was Patal Durga. The drum or ‘dhak’ plays an important role in Durga Puja. The drum is played almost non-stop from the beginning of the Pujas till the Durga statues are immersed in the river at the close of the festivities. Singhi Park Durga Puja Committee puts on a fine display of goddesses dressed with with great eye for detail of costuming. Thousands of devotees begin to queue from early morning to get a glimpse of the goddess. durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:27 PM Page 44 The best time for the devotees is of course during the Aarti or Prayers. Devotees at the pandal on the evening of ashtami or eighth day of Puja. Also known as Ekaitan puja. The crowds begin to increase as the Pujas come to their conclusion. 44 India & You l November-December 2007 durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:28 PM Page 45 durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:28 PM Page 46 durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:28 PM Page 47 The aarti is perhaps the best time to see the Pujas and get a feel of the festival and its religious fervour. The ambience inside the Pandals is something to experience first hand. As the priest recites the shlokas, sweet smelling smoke fills up the Pandal and the beatings of drums and cymbals reaches a crescendo. Female devotees with vermillion smeared on faces and hair on the banks of the Hooghly. durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:29 PM Page 48 The Pujas are not only for the devouts or the priests. Children, too, look forward to the Pujas for that means school holidays, lots of outings with the parents to various well decorated Pandals and of course shopping for goodies and new clothes. The Pujas shopping compares favourably with the Christmas shopping in the west. 48 India & You l November-December 2007 durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:29 PM Page 49 Shopping is not limited to clothes, household items and sweets. It is also the period for women of all ages and strata of the society to deck themselves up, trying out everything that the market can throw at them, including the instant block designs to decorate the hands, at the Mohammad Ali Park. But it is not only women who wear a new look. Each Pandal also tries a new look for each festival and sometimes the ideas reflect the trends and fads in the society as this Pandal a la Harry Potter in the Salt Lake City shows. India & You l November-December 2007 49 durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:29 PM Page 50 durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:29 PM Page 51 Even Kolkata’s streets get their own share of makeovers, especially since the entire city is decked up, with entire streets lit up through colourful electric relief as is seen on the Pandal gate at Singhi Park. The inside view at the Seethla Mandir Pandal, with a throng of worshippers, who seem oblivious of the time of the day or night. A lot of art and effort goes into the making of a Pandal. Each Pandal is an artist’s and a photographer’s delight as this detail of the Seethla Mandir Pandal shows. India & You l November-December 2007 51 durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:30 PM Page 52 After a 10-day festivity and devotional fervour, devotees turn out in large numbers to sat good bye for their favourite Goddess.On the 10th and the final day of the festival, long lines of trucks, bedecked with flowers, carry the Durga to the Hooghly river where a tearful and watery farewell is given Outside the Babu Ghat, the Durga idols laden in trucks on the way to the final part of the puja, the Visarjan or immersion in water.The devotees handle the idols with great care during the immersion. Some large idols can prove a bit of a challenge even for over a dozen devotees. As Durga returns to her heavenly abode, the devotees say a final goodbye. But only till the next Puja, a year later. 52 India & You l November-December 2007 durga_1_cinema.qxd 7/20/2013 3:30 PM Page 53 India & You l November-December 2007 53