ACCVI Newsletter 1604 - ACCVI The Alpine Club of Canada

Volume 44, Issue 4
Garibaldi-Neve ski traverse – nearing the top of Sentinel Glacier: Photo by Chris Jensen
ACC VANCOUVER ISLAND
SECTION
Social Events
The club has a monthly slide-show
presentation at the Swan Lake Nature
House, 3873 Swan Lake Road, Victoria,
BC on the second Thursday of each
month, except in July and August. The
doors open at 7:00pm, and the show
starts at 7:30pm.
Web Information
Web site: www.accvi.ca
Webmaster: webmaster@accvi.ca
Executive Meeting Minutes
Available on our meeting archives.
National ACC Office
For new memberships and renewals,
changes of address or other details, and
booking huts, contact the ACC National
office directly.
www.alpineclubofcanada.ca
info@alpineclubofcanada.ca
403 678 3200, or P.O. Box 8040
Canmore, AB, T1W 2T8
Annual Membership Dues
Single $53
Family $75
Youth (19 and under) $38
The Island Bushwhacker Newsletter
A monthly (except for July and August)
publication of the Vancouver Island
Section.
Newsletter Editor:
Mary Sanseverino, 250 592 4677,
newsletter@accvi.ca
We encourage submissions of items of
interest to our membership, including
news items, announcements, and short
articles, along with photos. Email your
submission by the 25th day of the previous
month.
Advertising shall be accepted at the
discretion of the editor. All advertising
shall be for products or services of direct
interest to our membership.
Our Motto
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
COME BACK ALIVE
COME BACK FRIENDS
RESPECT THE LAND
HAVE FUN
GET TO THE TOP
(IN THAT ORDER!)
EXECUTIVE
Chair: Catrin Brown, chair@accvi.ca
Secretary: Caroline Tansley,
info@accvi.ca
Treasurer: Colleen Kasting,
250 920 5278, ckasting@telus.net
Members-at-Large:
Russ Moir,
russmoir@gmail.com
Chris Jensen, 250 516 3932,
huts@accvi.ca
Colin Mann
Access and Environment
Barb Baker, access@accvi.ca
BMFF Coordinator
Krista Zala, bmff@accvi.ca
Bushwhacker Annual
Cedric Zala, 250 652 5841,
bushwhacker@accvi.ca
Education
Harry Steiner, 250 652 6647,
steinerh@telus.net
Equipment
Mike Hubbard (lower Island), 250
370 1096, jmhubbard@shaw.ca
*Tim Turay (upper Island), 250 334
5259, tim.turay@nic.bc.ca
Summer Camp
Liz Williams,
summercamps@accvi.ca
FMCBC Rep
Rob Macdonald, 250 727 6734,
fmcbc@accvi.ca
Library/Archives/History
Tom Hall (Library/Archives),
250 592 2518, hall.pnw@shaw.ca
*Lindsay Elms (History), 250 792
3384, beyondnootka@shaw.ca
Membership
Janelle Curtis,
membership@accvi.ca
National Rep
Christine Fordham,
natrep@accvi.ca
Safety Committee
Walter Moar
250 381 3922 safety@accvi.ca
Schedule
Karun Thanjavur,
schedule@accvi.ca
Slide show coordinator
*Peggy Taylor,
events@accvi.ca
Webmaster
Martin Hofmann,
webmaster@accvi.ca
Memorial Fund
*Geoff Bennett, 250 853 7515,
geoff.bennett@shaw.ca
* Non Executive Coordinators
April 2016
COMING EVENTS AT A GLANCE
Thur, Apr 14, Slideshow. Albert
Hestler: Journey to Ladakh.
Ladakh in Northern India is often
called “Little Tibet”, largely because
of its geography, culture and religion.
Come and explore it with Albert!
Thur, May 12, Slideshow.
Victoria Clarke: Iceland – the
Laugavegurinn Trek and Beyond
Inside
2
Upcoming Slideshows
2
Upcoming Trips
3
4
Upcoming Clinics and Mountain
Education Activities
Summer Camp: Alava Bate
5
Summer Camp: Lake O’Hara
6
Exec Episodes: Catrin Brown
7
First Aid Thoughts
7
Leader Program News
8 Alpine Hut Report
9 Book Recommendation
10 Strathcona Park Primer
11 Photo Essay: Garibaldi
12 eTrails + Final Photos
Reminder to Members:
Keep your membership up-to-date,
so to as to be covered by the ACC’s
liability insurance.
Keep your contact information
current on ACC National’s site, as
it’s from this master list that we
download our email addresses for
mailouts.
Register on our ACC-VI site to make
your contact information available to
other ACC-VI members.
Join the ACC-VI listserv to keep in
touch and share information with
other ACC-VI members.
Join the ACC-VI’s Facebook group.
1
Upcoming Slideshows, Presentations, and Meetings
Thur, Apr 14. Albert Hestler: Journey to Ladakh
Ladakh in Northern India is often called “Little Tibet”, largely because of its geography, culture and religion,
especially the many Buddhist monasteries. It is also one of those ancient kingdoms in the Himalayas which
retained much of its charm and character, due to the fact that it was only opened to tourism in 1974 – not to
mention the difficulties of access and climate. The road to Leh, the capital, is one of the most scenic alpine
routes in the world, crossing several passes over 5000m - an adventure in its own right. So bring your
friends and family as it should be an interesting show!
Thur, May 12. Victoria Clarke: Iceland – the Laugavegurinn Trek and Beyond
In July, 2013, my husband and I, along with our 16 year old son, spent two weeks travelling in Iceland. In our
first week, we undertook the “Laugavegurinn” hike, a 55 kilometre route that runs between Landmannalauger
and Posmork. It was a destination high point out of all our world travels. The landscape was truly stunning
and at times surreal taking us through geothermal fields, glacial valleys and woodlands along the entire
route. We drove the endlessly stunning 1,332 km “Ring Road” that runs around the country. A two day hike
in the northern National Park of Jokulsargljufur allowed us to stretch our legs and enjoy yet more great
scenery including basalt towers, waterfalls and plant life. If you’ve been thinking of going to Iceland, this
slideshow will have you booking your trip right away!
Victoria Slideshows are at Swan Lake Nature House. Doors open at 7:00pm, the show starts at 7:30pm.
Upcoming Trips
Apr 07 - 11. Spearhead Traverse, C2. Excellent ski traverse in the Garibaldi range. Max of 6 people.
Participants need to be able to meet for crevasse rescue before leaving for the trip. Required: ACC
Membership, AST1, ski & AVI gear, winter camping equipment, ice axe, proven experience in crevasse
rescue, intermediate ski ability.
Contact : Harry Steiner, steinerh@telus.net, 1 250 652-6647
Apr 16 - 17. Jutland Mountain, B3. Ski tour up Jutland. The plan is to camp by Amphitheatre Lake, ski up the
east ridge and then try and find a fun line back down to camp. At least AST1 and backcountry ski
experience required
Contact : Martin Hofmann, mhofmannskis+jutland@gmail.com.
Apr 30. Mt Manuel Quimper Traverse, A1. A traverse of Manuel Quimper, but ascending via a little used route
up the steep and open West Buttress to Mary’s Trail, and then across the chasm separating the West
Wing from the main summit block, and descending to the start via some version of the normal route. The
net elevation gain is 462 m over a distance of 4.5 km for the ascent vs. a shorter trip back with the same
loss and with some minor bushwhacking on the way up. Come join us for the spring flowers!
Contact : Scott Collins scottcollins@shaw.ca or Mary Sanseverino msanseve@gmail.com
May 08. Mt. Benson, B2. The perfect warm-up for the onset of summer hiking season on one of Nanaimo's local
favourite lookouts - Mt. Benson! We'll meet at Witchcraft Lake, take in the views, and plan some more
summer adventures. The total elevation gain is about 700m and takes 3-5 hours to the summit and back.
Max: 8 participants
Contact : Janelle Curtis janelle.curtis@gmail.com.
May 13 - 15. Mt. 5040 Backcountry Ski Weekend, C3. Island spring skiing with George Butcher and Chris
Ruttan. The plan is to head up Friday and return Sunday; 2 nights camping on snow. Skis, skins, avi gear;
winter camping gear.
Max: 8 participants. Trip may be re-scheduled due to inclement weather / road conditions.
Contact : George Butcher, geosooke@gmail.com (250) 642-5388.
May 29. Mt. Finlayson West Face, B2. Mountaineering gem in Victoria's backyard! Suitable for all skill levels. If
available, bring harness, prussic, sling, locking carabiner, good boots.
Max: 3 participants
Contact : Knut von Salzen, kvonsalz@uvic.ca.
Be sure to check our on-line web schedule frequently for updates!
2
Upcoming Clinics and Mountain Education Activities
Island Alpine Guides offers many courses – all of which ACC-VI members get a discount on. Check out Island
Alpine Guides for all of their offerings. As well, the Section offers course subsidies for these and other courses.
Check and see how these subsidies might apply to you: http://accvi.ca/index.php/course-subsidies
Postponed – Date TBA (was April 2-3). Trip Organizer Workshop Interested in organizing a trip for other
members? Join ACMG guide Mike Blake as he shares his unique leadership approach. Instead of offering
traditional chauffeur-style guiding, Mike believes in empowering people through experiential learning. This
two-day immersive workshop is full of professional techniques to help you plan and lead Alpine Club of
Canada trips. It feels inspiring to learn from a professional guide who is passionate about sharing.
More info: http://accvi.ca/index.php/education-courses-workshops
Requirements: ACC membership
Sign up: send email to steinerh@telus.net. Max of 20 people!
Price: 20$. Please send e-payment to Colleen colleenkasting@gmail.com.
Dates: Postponed – was 2/3 April – now TBD, Location TBD (probably Swan Lake, Victoria).
Contact: please send email to Harry Steiner, steinerh@telus.net.
May 18 + June 10 - 12 . Intro to Rock Climbing
This course and workshop in one is intended to introduce beginners to outdoor rock climbing. Course
participants will learn the basic skills needed for a day of top roping at the crags including belaying,
rappelling, and anchor building. This course has been a popular offering over the past few years and it will
fill up quickly, so we're asking that participants be able to attend both the evening session and full 3-day
weekend.
More info: http://accvi.ca/index.php/education-courses-workshops
Requirements: ACC membership
Sign up: please email to: alois.accvi.trips@gmail.com
Once you have emailed, IAG has requested that participants also register and pay their IAG fee at:
http://www.islandalpineguides.com/trips/11
Price: $95.00.
Dates: Wed, May 18 at Swan Lake Nature House. Friday – Sunday, June 10 – 12 at Crest Creek Crags in
the vicinity of Gold River in western Strathcona Provincial Park. Alpine Guides will be joining us on Friday
10 June for a day of formal instruction, followed by two days of an ACC-led climbing workshop.
Contact: Alois Schonenberger, alois.accvi.trips@gmail.com.
July, Dates TBD. Introduction to General Mountaineering
Mountaineering practice with an emphasis on hands-on learning; ice axe techniques, crevasse rescue, rope
systems, anchors, route-finding. People considering the Intro to Mountaineering Course should also take
part in the Snow School/Crevasse Rescue Workshop as preparation if they do not already have this
experience. Preference will be given to ACC members and Student Affiliate members. Others will be
accommodated on a 'stand-by' basis. Click on Youtube Video example of 2012 "Intro to General
Mountaineering" .
More info: http://accvi.ca/index.php/education-courses-workshops
Requirements: Valid ACC membership, previous & proven experience in crevasse rescue or equivalent
course, valid passport & ability to travel in the US.
Sign up: email to steinerh@telus.net
Price: $100.00 CDN, non-refundable.
Dates: TBD – 6 days in July, 2016.
Contact: Harry Steiner, steinerh@telus.net , 1 250 652-6647
Lots more education / courses / workshops coming up. Point your browser to
http://accvi.ca/index.php/education-courses-workshops.
3
ACC-VI Summer Camp at Alava Bate Sanctuary, Vancouver Island
July 24 – 31 & July 31 – Aug 7
***UPDATE****
Week One of summer camp (July 24 - 31st) has 5 spots out of 15 available.
Week Two of summer camp (July 31 - Aug. 7) has 7 spots out of 15 available.
The summer camp committee is aware of about 6 more members keenly interested in signing up for this camp
and who will be doing so soon. Spots may go quickly. Do not miss out on your chance to explore, hike, scramble
and climb in this amazing gem in the heart of Vancouver Island. Also our parent/youth bursary is still open.
About the Area:
The Alava Bate Sanctuary lies north of the road between the mill town of Gold River and the west coast village of
Tahsis. This range of rugged snow-capped mountains was accessed only about 30 years ago, as climbers had
yet to penetrate the thick bush and steep cliffs that surround the massif on all sides. From the summit of Mt
Alava one looks down on a series of glaciated valleys and green/blue lakes surrounded by the massive barren
red rock walls of several major peaks.
The proposed camp area is at approximately (click the lat/long to see it on a map) 49° 54.221'N; 126° 28.327'W.
Information / Guide about the Summer Camp:
Please see the Summer Camp General Information Guide 2016 and the Guidance for Alava Bate Participants
2016, which we hope will answer many of your preliminary questions. Please be sure to read these documents
carefully before filling in your Registration form. Your understanding and agreement with these policies is a prerequisite of registration. Travel and all other details will be provided at a later date.
Cost:
The cost for the 2016 Summer Camp is$500 per person. Costs are estimated for the helicopter plus camp
supplies. In the event of a profit, the summer camp refund policy will apply.
Please Note: we have a bursary of $ 347.50 available for a parent/youth duo (both must be ACC-VI members),
reducing the cost from $1,000.00 to $652.50 for the pair. Check out http://accvi.ca/index.php/summer-camp-2016 for more
info or contact Liz Williams at seahorse@pacificcoast.net or Peggy Taylor at peggyhiking@gmail.com if you have questions.
Registration:
Please read all the information and attached documents, print out the Registration Form and mail with your
cheque for $500 to:
Peggy Taylor.
#417-545 Manchester Road,
Victoria, BC
V8T 5H6
Cheques should be made out to: ACC – Vancouver Island Section
A Call for Camp Managers and Assistant Camp Managers:
Each week of the summer camp requires a Camp Manager and possibly an Assistant Camp Manager. If you
have an interest in building your leadership skills and working with the Camp participants to ensure a successful
experience for all, please read the Camp Managers’ Duties 2016, and contact Liz Williams at
seahorse@pacificcoast.net if interested. The summer camp does not happen without volunteers to make it
happen!
Further information:
Check out the ACC-VI Summer Camp web page.
Images from the Alava Bate Sanctuary.
Lots of opportunities for hiking, scrambling, rock climbing, botanizing, photography, hanging out with
friends, and more! There are oodles of ways to enjoy this glorious area.
4
ACC-VI Summer Camp at Lake O’Hara, Yoho National Park
A Week at Elizabeth Parker Hut, Lake O’Hara, in the Rockies
Aug 14th – 20th
This camp is full, but a waitlist is being taken. Contact Cedric Zala (see below) to
add your name to the wait list.
The Area
Lake O’Hara in Yoho National Park is one of the most spectacular
and accessible regions in the Rockies. Both hikers and climbers will
find an enormous variety of exhilarating hiking, scrambling and
climbing opportunities here, along with the comfort and convenience
of staying in an ACC hut. Some hiking options are the Opabin
Plateau, the All Souls, Yukness and Huber Ledges routes, and
Odaray Lookout. Scrambles include Yukness Mountain, Walter Feuz
Peak and Mt Schaeffer, while Grassi Ridge, Mt Victoria, Mt Huber,
Mt Lefroy, Glacier and Ringrose Peaks, and Mt Odaray are classic
climbs.
Transportation
You’re responsible for your own transportation to the Lake O’Hara parking lot but we’ll do our best to
arrange for car-pooling. Most people will probably catch the 9 a.m. ferry and drive up to Golden on the
Saturday, August 13. On Sunday morning you will need to make your way up to the Lake O’Hara parking
lot (2 km east of Wapta Lake or 14km east of Field). Bus transportation has been arranged from the
parking lot to Le Relais station at Lake O’Hara. We have reserved 8 spaces on the
8:30 bus trip and 16 spaces on the 10:30 trip. On the following Sunday morning, we’ll take the bus back to
the parking lot and return to Victoria.
The Accommodation
We suggest that you arrange to stay in Golden on Saturday, August 13, where there are plenty of motels
and three hostels with dorms. During the next week, we have the exclusive use of the Elizabeth Parker
Hut, a short walk from Lake O’Hara. There are 24 spaces available overall, including 16 in the hut itself and
8 in the adjacent Wiwaxy Cabin. The hut has dorm sleeping on foam mattresses, and a well-equipped
kitchen with two propane gas stoves, pots, pans, dishes and cutlery. Water is available from a nearby
creek.
Cost
Attendance is open to Vancouver Island Section members of the ACC. The cost of $350 includes 7 nights
in the Elizabeth Parker Hut, bus transport from the parking area, and a wilderness pass.
To reserve your space, first contact Cedric Zala (cedriczala@shaw.ca) to check whether there is still space
available. (If you have already sent a cheque without previously contacting him, then please email him
ASAP.) Once this has been confirmed, please make out a cheque to Alpine Club of Canada – Vancouver
Island Section and send to
Cedric Zala,
7776 Trentelmann Place,
Saanichton, BC V8M 1K9
On the back of the cheque, write your ACC membership number, your phone number and your email
address so your place can be confirmed by email.
Check out the full information sheet for more info on meals, emergencies, and cancellations.
More information on the Elizabeth Parker Hut at the Alpine Club of Canada Hut Info Sheet
5
Executive Episodes
Catrin Brown
A quick update of ACC life from the chair’s chair
Spoiler alert: Your Island Bushwhacker Annual editors have been hard at work on the written submissions
for the 2015 annual. Cedric is now engrossed in the mammoth task of converting these articles into the
high quality finished product we have come to anticipate. It is hoped it will be ready for distribution by the
May slideshow on 12th May.
Signs for our times: Craig Wagnell (islandhikes.com) and
Alberni Valley Outdoors Club (AVOC) have worked together to
produce colourful signs to be installed at the trailheads to 5040,
Cobalt lake, the “Tarns”, the trailhead to Triple Peak and the first
lake on Triple. These alpine areas have been much abused by
fire-building in recent years. The signs serve as a friendly
reminder of backcountry ethics and the need for everyone to be
mindful of leave no-trace practice.
Wish I’d known: After the fact, I recently learned that if a
booking for an ACC hut is made for a section trip, this should be
stated when making the reservation as the trip leader then goes
for free, helping to reduce the group cost. Next time.
Member news: Our best wishes go to Reinhard Illner as he
struggles to regain his health after being taken seriously ill while
travelling in Vietnam. Reinhard is currently in Room 331N at
Victoria Jubilee and appreciates messages and visits. Please
text first at 778-678-2353 or illnerreinhard@gmail.com.
Be warned, Reinhard’s jokes are as bad as ever.
Executive event: The last meeting was held on Thursday 17
March and the draft minutes, subject to approval at the next
meeting, will be posted on our website soon. Our next meeting
is scheduled for Thursday 28 April; if you have any items for the
agenda please let me know.
Happy trails
Catrin@shaw.ca
6
90 Hour Advanced First Aid – some thoughts
Sonia Langer
I took Slipstream's 90-hour Advanced Wilderness First Aid Course this month and had a very positive
experience. The ten-day course included scene assessments, splinting and packaging for trauma situations,
diagnosis of illness situations, evacuation considerations, legal considerations, altitude considerations, and a
whole lot of time practicing in scenarios – and an extra day for CPR. The 'on-line campus' readings with about
20-hours of suggested study provides information for the trauma and illness scenarios as well as the written
exam. The course, taught by Doc Crawford, was fun and informative: I highly recommend it, and would love to
see more ACC members with such a certification. Slipstream also offers a 50-hour Essential Wilderness First
Aid Course.
The course is quite a time commitment, and quite an expense, however, if I can help to rescue one person from
a tricky situation, it'll all be worth it. Like avalanche training, crevasse rescue training, rock rescue training, this
first aid training is so important to practice, to remember, yet we hope never to use these skills!
*Editor’s Note -- Some resources to check out:
Slipstream http://wildernessfirstaid.ca/
Alert First-Aid https://www.alertfirstaid.com/index.php
Rocky Point http://rockypoint.ca/
Ridge Wilderness http://www.ridgewilderness.com/
Leader Recognition News
Christine Fordham
LEADERSHIP SURVEY REMINDER
Just a reminder to all trip leaders that received a short survey, to please take a few minutes and complete it. This
survey was created by ACC National Section Council, to try to figure out what makes leaders want to lead trips.
Results will be complied and compared with all sections across Canada and discussed at the next National
Section Council meeting in May. Watch this space for results. The goal is to find out what we need to do to
support trip leaders to lead more trips.
Leadership survey at http://fluidsurveys.com/s/ACCleaders2016/
We hope that the results will help us to improve the leadership aspects of our section and get more and better
trips. Of course all responses are confidential.
Thanks,
on behalf of the ACCVI Leadership Committee
_________________________________________________________________________________________
The Leader Recognition Program continues apace. The program is to recognize and appreciate the contributions
of trip leaders to ACC-VI.
The trip leader with the most number of trip points accumulated between January 1 and December 31st each
year, will be eligible to win a fashionable Arc'teryx soft shell jacket embroidered with the ACC logo. Additionally,
the next 3 trip leaders on the score board will be awarded a $100 MEC gift card, and the next 2 a $50 gift card. If
a leader wins a jacket more than once, we will consider other prizes.
Leader badges for “outdoor trips” will be awarded at the AGM every year. These badges may include the
numbers 10, 25, 50, or 75, (cumulative points since Jan 1 2015).
Lots more information on the Leader Program at http://accvi.ca/index.php/leader-recognition-program
If you are interested in becoming a trip co-ordinator, please read Trip Leader Handbook or becoming a trip leader
or mentor, see the Trip Mentor Guide.
7
Update from the ACC-VI Hut Committee
By Chris Jensen
General Area: From February to April 2015, the ACC-VI Hut Committee examined the Island’s non-park
crown land for suitable locations to build an alpine hut. In May, 2015 the team proposed the general area
south of Sutton Pass (near Port Alberni) for a new alpine hut. Peaks in this area include Klitsa Mountain,
Mount Adder and 5040 Peak.
Site Selection: The team has been meeting with First Nations and local groups to discuss this initiative
and jointly identify potential hut sites. Many sites have been considered throughout the area. Currently the
committee’s preferred hut location is the west ridge of 5040 Peak. Criteria that favour this site include:
year-round access, reliable water supply, hiking and skiing opportunities, established trail, minimal
vegetation in the vicinity and high connectivity to other areas. This site has generally been well received
and initial comments have been supportive. In some cases, the level of positive feedback from First
Nations was beyond expectation.
Relationships: Meeting with local First Nations has been an enriching experience. The stories that were
shared with us have brought a new perspective and deeper appreciation for the history of Vancouver
Island’s mountains. We have learned the hut represents an opportunity for First Nations, and youth in
particular, to make a stronger connection with the alpine. The team welcomes partnerships with First
Nations and looks forward to further discussing how the hut, including its design, could help reflect and
strengthen First Nations culture. The team would like to further discuss this initiative with First Nations
before recommending a final site.
th
On February 27 , 2016 Chris Ruttan and Chris Jensen were joined by Tyrone Marshall, Sports and
Recreation Coordinator for the Tseshaht First Nation and his nephew Damian to hike up 5040 Peak. The
weather cooperated and the crew made it to Cobalt Lake where they could see the west ridge hut site. It
was Tyrone’s and Damian’s first time on snow shoes and their first time to the alpine. It was an honour to
share these special events with these great guys. It was a memorable day filled with lots of smiles (and
tasty mussels thanks to Tyrone). We hope to share similar trips with other First Nations in the future.
Chris J, Tyrone, Damian and Chris R at Cobalt Lake, 5040 Peak showing the west ridge hut site
8
Website: Thanks to Martin Hofmann for creating new webpages that provide information on the hut
project. The pages can be found through the ACC-VI homepage or by clicking here.
Hut Design and Management: Over the spring and summer the team plans to focus on hut design, a
management plan and cost estimates. Current thoughts are to size it to sleep up to 12 people with a wood
pellet stove for heating. Other services require further research (e.g. options for outhouse composting
systems).
Permitting: The team is aiming to apply for provincial permits in the fall, 2016. There is a lot of work to do
to prepare for this and there are many potential issues that could delay the application; however, if all goes
well then this is the intended timeline to apply to the province. The provincial decision process may take
between three and eighteen months depending on the complexity of issues that arise.
Volunteers Needed: We are currently gathering names of interested volunteers. If you can help out with
activities such as fundraising, research, construction etc, then please contact us at huts@accvi.ca. We’ll
need MANY volunteers to build a new alpine hut on Vancouver Island. We’re looking forward to hearing
from you.
Please send any questions or comments to huts@accvi.ca
10 Classic Climbs of Japan
Book Recommendation
ACC-VI member Rod Szasz recommended a new read from his old climbing mate Tony Grant – 10 Classic
Climbs of Japan. Rod says he hopes “it can infect a few of you to go there and climb these great peaks, meet
these wonderful people, and see a mountainous archipelago with numerous peaks over 3000 metres”.
With many mountains over 3000m above sea level, the alpine ranges of Japan’s main island of Honshu are home
to some of the most varied and beautiful alpine climbing routes in the world. From soaring razor-sharp rock spires
on Mt Tsurugi, to spring cornices like whipped cream on Mt Shirouma, and into the icy deep freeze of Mt Kaikoma
in winter, Japan has big routes for all seasons.
And yet surprisingly little is known about the mountains or the routes in the English language… until now. “10
Classic Alpine Climbs of Japan” is the first book by Tony Grant in the ‘Climb Japan’ series, his ongoing project
to unlock the mountains of Japan to foreign climbers. Following extensive alpine climbing experience in Japan,
these routes represent his selection for the ten finest, almost all ending on major summits above or around
3000m.
In these pages you will find all you need to know to access and climb the routes.
Place names are written in Japanese kanji and English alphabet, and the
descriptions are illustrated with the author’s beautiful colour photographs. The
book also contains a host of extra information to enrich your experience of
Japan’s mountains, from some of the unique indigenous wildlife, to Japan’s
famed volcanic hot springs, and a glossary of Japanese mountain words.
This book is the first of its kind in the English language, and the author hopes it
will provide both a framework for exploring these important alpine climbs and a
springboard to some unforgettable experiences!"
9
Strathcona Park Primer
By Barb Baker
Strathcona Park, BC’s first and largest park, established in 1911, contains some of the ACC-VI’s iconic
climbs: Golden Hind, Colonel Foster, Rambler, King’s Peak, Mariner, Tom Taylor, Albert Edward, and
more. There are some 250,000 hectares of parkland accessible from Highway 28, Buttle Lake, Mt.
Washington/Forbidden Plateau areas, Oshinow/Great Central Lakes, and Bedwell Sound. All directions
offer multitudes of front and backcountry experiences. Perhaps it would be good to know how it is
managed.
In 1993, after consulting with the public, a Master Plan was adopted describing the park and its objectives.
A public advisory committee was also decided upon. In 2001 an amendment provided additional
interpretations to the original plan. A minor amendment in 2010 provided clarification on horse use in the
Park.
The Master Plan and amendments provide guidelines used by Park Administration in the daily and long
term management of Strathcona. The following website (towards the middle of the page) describes the
process: http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/strath/. A major responsibility of the plan
describes the way areas of the Park have been categorized into zones with specific activities proscribed by
the zoning matrix. Click on the 2001 Master Plan Amendment and go to page 51 to review these zones.
Several times a year the Strathcona Park Public Advisory Committee (SPPAC) members meet with Park
management to go over how the objectives of the Master Plan and its amendments are being met. SPPAC
is comprised of members of the public who have applied for, been vetted and appointed by BC Parks
management and the Chair of SPPAC. There are up to 11 members serving in rotating terms. Each brings
a variety of skills to the table.
For anyone interested in SPPAC’s role, go to
http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/strath/SPPAC/terms_of_reference.pdf?v=14586167846
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Strathcona-Westmin Provincial Park, which is surrounded by Strathcona Provincial Park and includes the
Myra Falls operation of Boliden-Westmin Resources Ltd. mine, is also governed by a Master Plan and
ongoing consultation with Park management and the SPPAC.
ACC-VI’s library has several copies of the Strathcona Centennial Expedition DVD. This professional video
production followed the 2010 traverse of Strathcona Park, re-enacting the original 1910 Ellison exploration
of lands between Campbell River and Port Alberni. It includes climbing Crown Mountain. The trailer is
online at YouTube: https://youtu.be/VmU4mh9_gR0
Crown Mountain, 2015: Photos by Mike Whitney
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Easter Ski Traverse over the Garibaldi-Neve
Photos by Chris Jensen
Chris Jensen, along with Beth Denny, Jade Littlewood, Katie Ferland, and Paul McLellan spent the March
long weekend on a ski traverse over the Garibaldi-Neve. As Chris says, “We didn't find any Easter eggs up
there, but we did find awesome terrain and lots of big smiles!”
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eTrails
e-Trails + : Online articles, stories, reviews, how-tos about mountain activities,
announcements, gear, goodies
(If you have a link that you feel others would enjoy, or an announcement to get out, send it to
Mary Sanseverino, msanseve@gmail.com, for inclusion in the next Island Bushwhacker
Newsletter.)
The Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC: http://mountainclubs.org/
The Alpine Club of Canada: https://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/
Vancouver Island Avalanche Centre: http://islandavalanchebulletin.com/
Nanaimo Screening of the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival The Island
Mountain Ramblers proudly present the 2016 VIMFF, Best of the Fest! – Monday April 11, tickets are
$15.00. More info: https://sites.google.com/site/islandmountainramblers/vimff-tickets
Chris Istace reports EXCELLENT conditions on Mt. Arrowsmith right now. Both Cameron and Pass
main roads are in good shape and clear well past Climbers Trail. His pictures tell the tale!
Arrowsmith in the sun
Photos by Chris Istace, http://chrisistace.com/
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