February - The Chemeketans

Vol. 88/No. 2
February 2015
Scott Phillips, hanging from a big wall. Scott will share his years of
climbing experience at February Picture Night.
Chemeketan Picture Night presents
Scott Phillips - Life on the Wall
7 pm Friday, February 13
The Ike Box, downtown Salem
Free, everyone welcome! details inside
2015 Chemeketa Outing will be July 25 to August 8 in Central Oregon
The Chemeketans are a group united in a common interest in outdoor activities. Application for membership may be made after
completion of two qualifying trips with the club. For information and forms, contact chemeketans.org
GENERAL INFORMATION
Trip Participation
It is your responsibility to determine from the description of
distance, altitude, terrain, trail and possible weather conditions,
whether you, your children, and your guests can fully
participate. The leader may refuse to take anyone not properly
equipped or who is judged incapable of making the specific
trip. All valuables should be left at home or carried with you —
not left in a vehicle at the trailhead. Dogs/pets are not
permitted.
Snowshoe Trip Ratings
EASY - Generally not over 5 round-trip miles with up to 500 feet
of elevation gain.
MEDIUM - Generally over 5 round-trip miles up to 8 with over 500
feet of elevation gain up to 1000.
HARD - Generally over 8 round-trip miles with over 1000 feet of
elevation gain.
Mileage Reimbursement for Drivers
To reimburse drivers for vehicle operation costs, the suggested
donation is 9¢ per mile per person to drivers.
Guests (non-members)
A guest under 18 years of age must provide a signed
RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK to
the trip leader if he/she is not accompanied by a parent or legal
guardian.
February Hiking Coordinator: John Huff 503-503-363-4641
jhlg9@msn.com
Midweek Hiking Coordinator: Don Gallagher 503-371-7689
dongall39@comcast.net,
Dawdler Hike Coordinator: Carol Soderberg 503-507-0867
carol.soderberg@gmail.com
Trip Essentials
Participants should wear appropriate foot gear and
clothing (no jeans), carry lunch, water, rain gear, warm
sweater/jacket, and the following "essentials":
EXTRA food/clothing/water
flashlight & extra battery
lighter/matches in waterproof container
solar blanket and/or ground insulation in winter
Insect repellent
first aid materials
sunglasses
pocket knife
toilet paper
candle
sunscreen
whistle
small shovel
Membership and Bulletins
The best way for prospective members to request club
information and guest bulletins is to complete the online
"MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION REQUEST FORM", available
on our website www.chemeketans.org under "Membership" or
"Contact Us."
When mailing requests to Chemeketans, Membership
Secretary, PO Box 864, Salem OR 97308 or email
chememb@chemeketans.org and use an unambiguous
subject line and include a snail mail address and phone
number.
If you mail in names of prospective members on sign-up
sheets, instead of directing people to the website, it is very
helpful to include email addresses.
Trip Ratings:
DAWDLERS: Pace slow, group makes frequent stops
for viewing, photography, etc.
EASY: Max. 5 miles round trip, elevation gain less
than 1000 feet.
MEDIUM: 6 - 10 miles round trip, 1000 - 2000 feet
elevation gain.
HARD: Long, strenuous, and difficult.
Annual Dues: Adults $20 and Juniors (members under age
18) $3. The membership year starts January 1st.
Bulletin Editors
Joanne DeMay 971-237-9775 joannedemay08@gmail.com
Bill Geibel 503-873-0270 banjobill1@gmail.com
Mike Berger 503-400-7645 ayenova@comcast.net
Cover Editor: Allan King
Trip Meeting Points
This issue was edited by Bill Geibel
The March issue will be edited by Joanne DeMay
The April issue will be edited by Mike Berger
RAS = Rite Aid South, south Commercial, behind bus stop
CCC = WEEKENDS ONLY – Green Parking Lot (lot off
Cooley Dr off Lancaster Side)
RLC = Redeemer Lutheran Church at 4665 Lancaster Dr
(corner of Hayesville Dr – but never on Sunday)
SKM = Big K Lot, 2470 Mission St., Mission St. side, just
west of Jack-in-the-Box
RPR = Roth’s Portland Road, 4746 Portland Road NE
(park in northwest corner on Portland Road)
PAR = State Motor Pool Park and Ride lot on Airport
Road
DEN = 360½ State Street
FMN = Fred Meyer North west side of lot (River Road
side)
SAF = Safeway West Salem, use Capital Manor exit from
22. Park on Edgewater -- southwest corner
MBI = Minto Brown Island Park (1st parking lot on right
as you enter island)
To submit an Activity or We Were There report, use the online
forms on the www.chemeketans.org website. If you do not
have internet access, ask a friend or the hiking coordinator to
do this for you. You may also call, email, or send your writeups directly to the editors. Do not send forms to the P.O. Box.
The Chemekeden is located at 360½ State Street, Salem.
Members may schedule the facility with the Chemekeden
Committee Chair.
The Chemeketan Trip Leader Guide is available at
www.chemeketans.org/Leader_Guide.pdf
Thunderbird Lodge: To reserve the Chemeketan cabin on
Whitewater Road, call or email Kim Hyatt: pkhyatt@msn.com,
503-362-2765
February 2015
2
www.chemeketans.org
FEBRUARY 2015 CALENDAR
Day
Date
Location & Activity
Leader
Sun-Fri
Sun
Mon
Tue
Wed
Wed
Wed
Thurs
Sat
Sat
Sun
Mon
Mon
Wed
Wed
Wed
Thurs
Thurs
Fri
Sat
Sat
Sat
Sun
Mon
Mon
Wed
Thurs
Fri
Sat
Sat
Sat
Sat
Sun
Sun
Mon
Wed
Wed
Wed
Thurs
Sat
Sat
Sat
1-6
1
2
3
4
4
4
5
7
7
8
9
9
11
11
11
12
12
13
14
14
14
15
16
16
18
19
20
21
21
21
21
22
22
23
25
25
25
26
28
28
28
Senior Ski Week X-Ski
Silver Falls Rim Trail Hike
Koffee Klatch at the Beanery
Talking Water Gardens Dawdler
Santiam Area X-Ski
Warrior Rock Hike
Audubon Reserve Restoration
Center 50+ for Lunch
Mt. Pisgah Hike
Minto Brown Walk
Bobcat Bluff Hike and Snowshoe
Potato Hill Snowshoe
Koffee Klatch at the Beanery
Silver Falls Hike
Irvington Portland Urban Dawdler
Audubon Reserve Restoration
Center 50+ for Lunch
Second Thursday Pizza - Padington's South
Picture Night - "Life on the Wall"
Fisher Point Snowshoe
Cape Horn Hike
Minto Brown Walk
Spencer Hill Hike
Joryville Park Dawdler
Koffee Klatch at the Beanery
Audubon Reserve Restoration
Center 50+ for Lunch
Route Finding School - Classroom Session
Route Finding School - Classroom & Field Sessions
Santiam Snowshoe
Oak Creek to McCulloch Peak Hike
Minto Brown Walk
Route Finding School - Classroom & Field Sessions
South Lake Pioneer Trail at Mt. Hebo Hike
Koffee Klatch at the Beanery
Maxwell Butte X-Ski
Shellburg Falls Hike
Audubon Reserve Restoration
Center 50+ for Lunch
Santiam Canyon Snowshoe
Silver Falls Hike
Minto Brown Walk
Ted Young
Elizabeth Seibert
Bill Anning
Paula Hyatt
Don Gallagher
Dave Carter
Lee Slattum
Lee Slattum
John Huff
Laura DeVries
Lee Slattum
Ken Ash
Bill Anning
Ken Ash
Carol Soderberg
Lee Slattum
Lee Slattum
Nancy Rockwell
Mary Liepins / Scott Phillips
Jean Gabriel
Matt Rieke
Laura DeVries
Jim Rastorfer
Paula Hyatt
Bill Anning
Lee Slattum
Lee Slattum
Steve Dougherty
Steve Dougherty
Tom Burke
Bill Wylie
Laura DeVries
Steve Dougherty
Sylvia Dawson/David Jackson
Bill Anning
Don Gallagher
Margaret Saxe
Lee Slattum
Lee Slattum
Mona Knapp
Debra Dawes
Laura DeVries
FUTURE EVENTS
Wed
Wed
Sat-Sun
Sun-Sun
Sun-Sun
February 2015
April 8
April 15
April 18-19
May 17-24
May 24-31
Chemeketan Climb School Classroom Session #1
Chemeketan Climb School Classroom Session #2
Chemeketan Climb School Field Sessions
Canyon de Chelly
Canyon de Chelly
3
Theresa Conley
Theresa Conley
Theresa Conley
Hardin King
Hardin King
www.chemeketans.org
2015 CHEMEKETAN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL
President ..............................
Vice-President ......................
Membership Co-Chairs.........
Recording Secretary.............
Treasurer …..........................
Councilor ..............................
Councilor...............................
Councilor ..............................
Steve Dougherty
Karen Craven
Michael Gurley
Mary Liepins
Fletcher Moulton Adelman
Mark Olson
Bonnie Arias
Mike Pennington
Susan LaTour
503-566-8899
503-508-1204
609-410-3764
503-363-6385
steve2756@gmail.com
kccravenconsulting@gmail.com
michael.gurley67@gmail.com
mliepins@willamette.edu
3 year term
2 year term
3 year term
3 year term
thru
thru
thru
thru
2016
2015
2016
2016
503-315-7108
503-559-0728
503-580-7085
503-689-1928
503-362-3375
dfgt67@gmail.com
mark.olson06@gmail.com
bonniejarias@gmail.com
mchuckp@gmail.com
Susanlatour@gmail.com
3 year term
3 year term
2 year term
3 year term
3 year term
thru
thru
thru
thru
thru
2017
2017
2015
2017
2017
DECEMBER EXECUTIVE COUNCIL MINUTES
December 17, 2014 6:00 p.m.
Chemekeden at 360½ State Street, Salem
Attendees:
Present: Steve Dougherty, Bonnie Arias, Amy Dale, Michael
Gurley, Karen Craven, Mary Liepins, Diane Clayton and Susan
LaTour.
Absent: Mike Pennington
Guests: George Adkins, Jay Orand, Fletcher MoultonAdelman, Dr. Mark Olson.
Recording Secretary
Bonnie Arias
2.
3.
4.
#1 Investment ideas- Jay Orand and George Adkins
(guests).
Review about where Chemeketans have current funds
invested. A committee of three was suggested to focus on
conservative investments.
Action: Karen Craven motioned that a committee be
established to review club investments and make
recommendations to council. Action passed.
Action: Bonnie Arias moved to accept the treasurer’s report.
Report was accepted.
#2 Approve Council minutes for November 19th, 2014
council meeting.
#4 Reimbursements- Amy Dale
Rob Kimmich asked for $10.88 to pay for annual web domain
cost. Amy Dale asked for $43.00 reimbursement cost. Cost
was for half an ink printer cartridge and paper expense. Robert
Roner asked for a $27.82 reimbursement for improvements he
did on the Chemekeden.
Action: Bonnie Arias moved to approve reimbursements.
Reimbursements were approved.
Action: Amy Dale moved to accept council minutes. Motion
passed.
#3 Treasurer’s Report –Amy Dale.
November 2014 reports provided by Ascension Accounting
a. Transaction Detail Report with ending balances
ending November 30, 2014
b. Statement of Receipts and Disbursements
monthly comparison to previous year
c. Statement of Assets & Liabilities monthly
comparison to previous year
1.
#5 Chemeketan Council Membership Report
for the period -11/01/2014 to 11/30/2014
Mary Liepins.
As of November 30, 2014 there were 725 active, paying
members including 9 life members and 13 junior members.
There were 234 renewals in November.
Club Assets total $189,545 (includes Climbing and
Outing accounts)
$
In November we received and processed 12 guest requests for
complimentary electronic bulletins. The total number of guests
receiving a three-month complimentary email notification of
electronic bulletin availability is 91. In addition, there are 33
businesses, agencies and libraries as well as three other
outdoor clubs who receive a printed bulletin at no charge.
Seven new adult member applications were submitted:
66,488 Cash (main account balance at 11/30
$14,165)
116,519 Investments (Outing $13,634)
295 Prepaid Postage
6,243 Fixed assets less depreciation (cabin,
equipment, climbing gear)
February 2015
$189,545 Total Assets
The club generally has no liabilities.
Revenues for the month of November total $4,717
$3,889 Club Membership
797 Climbing
0 Cabin
0 General Store
30 Other
1 Interest
$4,717 Total Revenue
Expenses for the month of November total $2,185
584
Printing and Mailing (includes bulletin)
135
Professional Services (includes
bookkeeping)
244
Cabin
352
Chemekeden (rent, utilities,
maintenance)
634
Classes Offered (materials,
supplies, snacks, etc.)
$2185 Total Expenses
4
www.chemeketans.org
Nancy Chambers
Susan Hoskins
Mike McKinley
Hadassah McKinley (junior)
Douglas Thigpen
Jane Thomas
Mark Thomas
stairs to events and meetings. Also the Ike Box could
potentially be a new partner for youth involvement
with the Chemeketans. January council meeting will
be held at the Ike Box to assess a possible new
th
venue. Meeting date: January 7 6:30 p.m. Council
meetings will be held the first Wednesday of the
month for 2015.
b. Picture Night- Mary Liepins
Action: Mary Liepins moved to spend up to $150 on a venue
for picture night for a special presentation if climbers are
unable to cover the cost. Motion passed.
Payments received for new memberships and renewals totaled
$4,735.00.
Action: Michael Gurley moved to approve new members.
Motion passed.
#9 Establishment of 2015 council positions.
a. Council meetings will occur the first Wednesday
of the month in 2015 at 6:30 p.m.
b. Meeting place- January’s meeting will take place
at the Ike Box. Future meeting spot will be
determined.
c. New 2015 Council Positions:
President: Steve Dougherty
Vice President: Karen Craven
Treasurer: Dr. Mark Olson
Recording Secretary: Fletcher Moulton; Adelman
Membership Secretaries: Mary Liepins and
Michael Gurley.
Council members: Bonnie Arias, Mike Pennington
and Susan LaTour.
#6 Annual Meeting Planning
a. Agenda
b. By law changes
c. Expenses
d. Open chair positions
Also discussed were possibly giving a cabin report,
bulletin expense recap and accomplishment report.
Refreshments will be brought.
#7 All member emails – Diane Clayton
Action: Diane Clayton moves that Council establish and
publish guidelines for use of all member emails by March 2015.
Motion passed.
Action: Mary Liepins moved for council members to bring
ideas to the January council meeting. Motion passed.
#8 Club Policies- Diane Clayton
Action: Diane Clayton moves that council appoint a
special committee to review club policies and make
recommendations for updating them to council by April
2015. Motion passed.
Diane Clayton volunteered to chair this committee and will look
for volunteer members to aid in this endeavor.
Action: Amy Dale moved that President Steve
Dougherty , Treasurer Dr. Mark Olson and Recording
Secretary Fletcher Moulton- Adelman be added to all
Chemeketan checking, savings, investment accounts
and safe deposit boxes for 2015. Motion passed.
Meeting adjourned at 7:55 p.m.
Next meeting: January 7, 2015 6:30 p.m.
Location: Ike Box
New/ Old Business
a. Ike Box – Karen Craven has researched a new
possible meeting place for council meetings. Older
members have mentioned problems with climbing the
ANNOUNCEMENTS
The February Council Meeting will be Wednesday, February 4 at 6 p.m. at the Ike Box,
299 Cottage St. NE , SW corner of Cottage and Chemeketa
VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITY
CHEMEKETAN STORE MERCHANDISE
Members are needed to serve on a committee to review club
policies, identify obsolete policies, and make recommendations
for change to Executive Council. If you are familiar with club
policies and/or are interested in working on this project, contact
Diane Clayton (dianeclayton2@gmail.com). The timeline for
completion is April 2015.
A variety of Chemeketan merchandise is available from the
Chemeketan Store. Contact Roz Shirack at
rozshirack7@gmail.com to order and for details.
Chemeketan T-shirts
Adult navy, S, M, L, XL ……....…………… $12
Women’s navy, S, M, L …….……………... $10
Adult charcoal long sleeve, S, M, L, XL ….. $15
Bandannas, light blue or black ……………… $6
(These T-shirts and bandannas are available at Salem Summit
Co, 246 State St. in Salem. Ask for them at the counter.
Payment by cash in exact amount, or by check payable to
Chemeketans). Photos of T-shirts and more details at
www.chemeketans.org .
CHEMEKETAN ICE-SKATING GROUP
If you would like to join our Chemeketan Ice-Skating Group,
email Laurelyn Schellin at: laurelynschellin@hotmail.com, and
include your phone number. We usually skate at the indoor
Sherwood Ice Arena on Adult Only days. Rink fee includes
skate rentals and complimentary coffee/hot chocolate and
cookies. If you have your own skates, a blade-sharpening
service is available in the pro shop. Beginners and guests are
always welcome. Come join us on the ice!
February 2015
5
Thunderbird embroidered patch, red, 3 inches …… $2
www.chemeketans.org
Thunderbird metal pin, ¾ inches …………………… $1
Adult T-shirts from prior Outings, M, L …………….. $5
Child T-shirts, light blue, 10-16 ……………………... $3 !Price
Reduction!
Chemeketan red and blue plaid wool fabric ……….. $5 per
yard
Mt. Adams 2001 patch, 4 inches …………………… $2
Thunderbird red and blue decal, 3 inches …………. 25 cents
on their judgment, including reader interest and available
space. Some photos may only be put in the ebulletin due to
space restrictions.
DISCOUNT VENDORS The stores listed below will honor
your Chemeketan membership sticker with a discount:

Salem Summit Co., 246 State St., Salem, 503-990-7304
– 10% discount.

Oregon Mountain Community, 2975 NE Sandy Blvd,
Portland, 503-227-1038 - 10% discount.

The Mountain Shop, 1510 NE 37th, Portland, 503-2886768 - Discounts: Members 10%, Climb Leaders 15%,
Class Participants in session 15%, 30% on rentals. No
discounts on service work or sale items.

Next Adventure, 426 SE Grand, Portland, 503-233-0706 10% discount.

US Outdoor Store, 219 SW Broadway, Portland, 503223-5937 - 10% discount.

Peak Sports, 207 NW 2nd, Corvallis, 541-754-6444 - 10%
discount.

Redpoint Climber’s Supply, 800-923-6207, 8283 11th
St. Terrebonne -10% discount.

Salem Sports Authority - Lancaster Mall, Salem. 15%
off entire purchase on first Monday of each month at
outdoors register. .
ADS
A Chemeketan member may place one small non-commercial
ad per year - for example, offering outdoor equipment for sale
– in the Chemeketan bulletin, free of charge. These classified
ads are subject to space availability. There will be no display
ads placed on the back cover. Ads must be sent via email
directly to the editors and must be received by the first of the
month preceding the month in which they are to be published.
DUE DATES!! Please submit your bulletin articles by the
FIRST of the preceding month. You snooze, you looze.
PHOTOS: Many recent photo submissions to the editors
have been too small in file size and too pixelated. Please
submit photos that are either the original size or at least 300400 Kb in size. If photos are too poor in quality, they will be
rejected. Editors still reserve the right to publish photos based
WHERE AND WHEN
Refer to the General Information on Page 2 for trip ratings,
meeting locations and other important information. Trips leave
promptly at the time stated so be there a few minutes ahead of
time. RT = Round Trip. The use of an asterisk* on Climb
related activities indicates that the activity is available to first
year climbers.
"This is an engineered wetland created to further treat water
from the Albany-Millersburg Reclamation Facility." Come and
explore this area with me. Matt has sent me all the information,
and I will check with him again before the day of the trip. The
map looks pretty clear as are directions for getting there. Hope
for good weather, but dress for whatever. Slow pace.
RATED: DAWDLERS, Driving dist RT 35 miles, HIKE dist
2.5 miles.
Sunday-Friday, February 1-February 6,
SENIOR SKI WEEK X-SKI/SNOWSHOE, TED YOUNG 503362-1525
Diamond Lake Lodge will again host Senior Ski/Snowshoe
week. The dates will be Feb. 2 through 5, 2015. To register,
contact Diamond Lake Lodge directly at: 1-800-733-7593.
Lodging is available in various price ranges. Many
Chemeketans choose to share a cabin, so ask around. If you
plan to travel by train from Salem to Chemult, the travel dates
will be Feb. 1 and Feb. 6. For a small fee, the Lodge provides
a shuttle service from Chemult to the lodge and back. Driving
dist RT 360 miles.
Wednesday, February 4, SANTIAM AREA X-SKI
PRE-REG W/LDR: DON GALLAGHER
Let's plan on finding some new snow for an early February
cross-country ski trip. Depending on snow conditions, we could
end up at Ray Benson, Maxwell Butte or Potato Hill Sno-Parks
or
even
closer
to
Salem.
Pre-register
at
dongall39@comcast.net. Moderate pace.
RATED: EASY-MEDIUM, Driving dist RT 160 miles, X-SKI dist
4.5 miles.
Wednesday, February 4, RPR, 8:30 a.m., WARRIOR ROCK
HIKE, DAVE CARTER 503-393-3649
This is a hike along the Columbia River on Sauvie Island in the
Wildlife Area. There is a good chance you will see eagles,
herons, and geese as we hike. Sometimes large ships also
ghost by fairly close to the land along some parts of the trail.
Each vehicle will need a daily permit of $7. Wear boots as this
trail is usually wet and can have muddy spots this time of the
year. We will have lunch at Warrior Rock by the lighthouse
located on a rock point and then retrace our path back to the
trailhead. Slow pace.
RATED: EASY, Driving dist RT 120 miles, HIKE dist 6 miles,
Elev. 0 feet.
Sunday, February 1, PAR, SILVER FALLS RIM TRAIL HIKE
ELIZABETH SEIBERT 503-315-8785
We will hike from South Falls Lodge to North Falls and back on
the Rim Trail. Be ready for water and mud. Plan for a late start
and then late lunch in the lodge after the hike. Please register
tentative interest 24 hours in advance of the hike by phone or
at jseibert@willamette.edu. The hike will probably be limited to
10. Slow pace.
RATED: EASY, Driving dist RT 50 miles, HIKE dist 5 miles,
Elev. 200 feet.
Monday, February 2, 10:00 a.m., KOFFEE KLATCH AT THE
BEANERY, BILL ANNING
Tuesday, February 3, SKM, TALKING WATER GARDENS
DAWDLER
PRE-REG W/LDR: PAULA HYATT 503-362-2765
February 2015
6
Wednesday, February 4, AUDUBON RESERVE
RESTORATION, LEE SLATTUM 503-364-9325
Like many of you, I am both a Chemeketan and a Salem
Audubon member. I have volunteered to lead a restoration
program at the Audubon Nature Reserve, located in West
www.chemeketans.org
Monday, February 9, 10:00 a.m., KOFFEE KLATCH AT THE
BEANERY, BILL ANNING
Salem on Eola Drive, behind Safeway on Edgewater. We work
every Wednesday morning from 9:00 to 11:00 on a variety of
projects: removing invasive plants and replacing them with
natives, picking up litter, maintaining manmade nesting cavities
in snags, constructing and keeping up trails, mowing grass,
and developing wildflower plots. At 11:00, we quit and head to
McDonald's on Wallace Road to drink senior coffee and have a
good visit. Into our fourth year, we have accomplished much
with our collaborative effort.
Wednesday, February 11, 8:30 a.m., SILVER FALLS HIKE
PRE-REG W/LDR: KEN ASH 503-884-3160
We will hike the canyon starting at North Falls with a stop at
the lodge. Come prepared for any weather. Contact leader at
mrkenash@comcast.net or by phone. Moderate pace.
RATED: MEDIUM, Driving dist RT 60 miles, HIKE dist 7 miles,
Elev. 500 feet.
Thursday, February 5, CENTER 50+ LUNCH
LEE SLATTUM 503-364-9325
Into our sixth year, our Chemeketan and guest lunches
continue at the City of Salem's newest Senior Center, the
Center 50+, at 2615 Portland Road NE. Lunch is served
between 11:30 and 1:00. The cost is $5.00 if you are fifty or
better; $6,50 if you are younger. A reserved sign identifying us
as Chemeketans will claim our table. Drop in for some good
food, conversation, and a chance to do some networking.
Wednesday, February 11, 9:00 a.m., IRVINGTON
PORTLAND URBAN DAWDLER HIKE
PRE-REG W/LDR: CAROL SODERBERG 503-507-0867
This hike follows a route described in Laura Foster’s book
"Portland City Walks". During the hike I’ll read aloud some of
her descriptions of the history and highlights of this part of the
city. Irvington is one of the most architecturally interesting
neighborhoods of Portland. We’ll have lunch at Costello’s
Travel Cafe toward the end of our walk. Bring water and
money for lunch. Slow pace.
RATED: DAWDLERS, Driving dist RT 90 miles, HIKE dist
5 miles, Elev. 100 feet.
Saturday, February 7, MT. PISGAH HIKE
PRE-REG W/LDR: JOHN HUFF 503-507-7348
We will do a loop hike, topping out at the summit of Mt. Pisgah.
If the day is clear, great views of Diamond Peak and the
southern Willamette Valley can be seen. Come prepared for
chilly weather and muddy trails. Moderate pace.
RATED: MEDIUM, Driving dist RT 140 miles, HIKE dist
7 miles, Elev. 1300 feet.
Wednesday, February 11, AUDUBON RESERVE
RESTORATION, LEE SLATTUM 503-364-9325
See February 4 write-up.
Thursday, February 12, CENTER 50+ LUNCH, LEE
SLATTUM 503-364-9325
See February 5 write-up.
Saturday, February 7, 9:00 a.m., MINTO BROWN PARK
WALK, LAURA DEVRIES 503-363-4641
Join us as we walk 3-4 miles every Saturday morning at Minto
Brown Park. Meet at the last parking lot. Moderate pace.
RATED: EASY, HIKE dist 4 miles.
Thursday, February 12, 6:00 p.m., PIZZA NIGHT
NANCY ROCKWELL 503-508-2941
Come meet with your friends and enjoy some pizza at
Padington's Pizza at 5255 Commercial SE . RATED: EASY.
Sunday, February 8, BOBCAT BLUFF HIKE & SNOWSHOE
PRE-REG W/LDR: LEE SLATTUM
We drive across Detroit Dam and follow the paved road for two
miles to the start of a logging road. Here, we go up by foot till it
will be advantageous to put on snowshoes. A good guess is
that the second half of the mileage and vertical will be on
snowshoes. Weather permitting, we will have good views en
route of Detroit Lake and from the 4400-foot bluff, expect a
commanding view of big-name snow peaks. This will be a
physically demanding day. Moderate pace.
RATED: HARD, Driving dist RT 100 miles, dist 8.6 miles, Elev.
2200 feet.
Friday, February 13, 7:00 p.m., PICTURE NIGHT
MARY LIEPINS 503-363-6385
"Life On The Wall" - Ever wonder how climbers ascend some
of those amazingly tall, sheer cliffs that we’ve heard about?
Scott Phillips will present a program about vertical camping on
a big wall while climbing it. He will cover the food and gear he
takes with him and describe climbs he has done. You’ll find out
how climbers train for trips like this and what they do for
sleeping arrangements and other issues along the way. He’ll
have equipment at the presentation so you can see what they
need for a climb and how they survive on a wall for several
days. In order to accommodate everyone who might be
interested, this Picture Night will be held in the ballroom at the
Ike Box, 299 Cottage St. NE (corner of Cottage and
Chemeketa).
Monday, February 9, 8:00 a.m., POTATO HILL SNOWSHOE
PRE-REG W/LDR: KEN ASH 503-884-3160
We will snowshoe to the top of the hill to enjoy lunch, views
and great company. Come prepared for any weather
conditions and a good time. Contact the leader at
mrkenash@comcast.net or by phone. Moderate pace.
RATED: MEDIUM, Driving dist RT 160 miles, SNOWSHOE
dist 5 miles, Elev. 1000 feet.
Saturday, February 14, FISHER POINT SNOWSHOE
PRE-REG W/LDR: JEAN GABRIEL
We'll use a combination of roads and cross-country on our
route to Fisher Point, which has a fabulous panoramic view of
Cascade peaks on a clear day. If the snow
conditions are not good for this location, I'll
substitute an alternate snowshoe which will also
be rated hard. Pre-register by phone, not by
email. See roster for phone number. Moderate
pace.
RATED: HARD, Driving dist RT 150 miles,
SNOWSHOE dist 7.5 miles, Elev. 1300 feet.
◄ View From Potato Hill
February 2015
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Saturday, February 14, SKM, 8:00 a.m., CAPE HORN HIKE
MATT RIEKE 541-928-2767
Cape Horn is about 26 miles east of Vancouver. It is actually a
compilation of several trails and, in the late summer and fall,
can be hiked in a loop. Part of it is closed in the winter/spring to
protect falcon nesting. We will get great views of the Gorge
and a good workout. We will do an out and back. There are
"heights" that you will be close to but, if that bothers you, then
you can avoid this area. Great views both east and west. Let's
ask for dry weather. Slow pace.
RATED: EASY-MEDIUM, Driving dist RT 140 miles, HIKE dist
7.7 miles, Elev. 1300 feet.
Thursday, February 19, CENTER 50+ LUNCH
LEE SLATTUM 503-364-9325
See February 5 write-up.
Friday-Sunday, February 20-February 22, DEN, ROUTE
FINDING SCHOOL,* STEVE DOUGHERTY
The Chemeketan Route Finding School will teach you how to
use a map, compass and GPS. The training is designed for
beginners and those who need a refresher. This three-part
training focuses on learning and practicing map, compass and
GPS skills. Part one "Using Maps" is a three-hour lecture and
will focus solely on revealing and understanding the enormous
amount of information available in a topographical map.
Parts two and three will focus on compass and GPS
skills respectively. Both will consist of equal parts lecture
and field session practice. The field session exercises
are critical for participants to internalize the skills
introduced in the lecture sessions. Lectures take place at
the Chemekeden at 360 1/2 State Street in downtown
Salem (above Cooke Stationery). Field sessions will be
held within walking distance of the Chemekeden at
Salem's Riverfront Park. Participants are expected to
bring their own compass, but need not own their own
GPS. We have a limited supply of Garmin GPS units that
we can loan. Space is limited to 50 participants. The cost
is $20.
Make checks payable to the Chemeketans and mail to
the leader: Steve Dougherty, PO Box 9, Lyons, OR
97358.
Cape Horn
Schedule:
Part 1: Using Maps: Fri. Feb 20 6:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m.
Part 2: Using Map and Compass: Sat. Feb 21 8:00 a.m.1:00 p.m.
Part 3: Using a GPS: Sun. Feb 22 8:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m.
Saturday, February 14, 9:00 a.m., MINTO BROWN PARK
WALK, LAURA DEVRIES 503-363-4641
See Feb. 7 write-up.
Sunday, February 15, 8:00 a.m., SPENCER BUTTE HIKE
PRE-REG W/LDR: JIM RASTORFER 503-390-4640
This hike is mostly through a Douglas fir forest at the southern
edge of Eugene. We will hike from the Martin St. trailhead to
the summit of Spencer Butte. On a clear day the view can
include the Cascade peaks as well as the southern Willamette
Valley. The top of the butte is actually above the tree-line and
consists mainly of rock formations and grass. Come prepared
for muddy trails and unpredictable weather. Moderate pace.
RATED: MEDIUM-HARD, Driving dist RT 130 miles, HIKE dist
7 miles, Elev. 1500 feet.
Saturday, February 21, SANTIAM SNOWSHOE
PRE-REG W/LDR: TOM BURKE 503-930-5704
We will go where the snow gods allow on one of our
established routes for an enjoyable outing of between 4 and 6
miles, with no more than 400 to 600 hundred feet of
accumulated elevation. Moderate pace.
RATED: EASY-MEDIUM, Driving dist RT 160 miles,
SNOWSHOE dist 5 miles, Elev. 500 feet.
Monday, February 16, 10:00 a.m., JORYVILLE PARK
DAWDLER
PRE-REG W/LDR: PAULA HYATT 503-362-2765
Close to the south end of Salem lies a small park, part of the
old Jory family homestead. Trails go along a creek, then up
and down. At the top there is a view to the south, our reward
for the climb. Trails are apt to be muddy and slippery in spots,
so wear appropriate foot gear and clothing suited to the
weather. Hike may seem short, but bring a snack
anyway. Slow pace.
RATED: DAWDLERS, Driving dist RT 15 miles, HIKE dist
1.5 miles, Elev. 150 feet.
Monday, February 16, 10:00 a.m., KOFFEE KLATCH AT
THE BEANERY, BILL ANNING
A Santiam Area Snowshoe
Wednesday, February 18, AUDUBON RESERVE
RESTORATION , LEE SLATTUM 503-364-9325
See February 4 write-up.
February 2015
View From Potato Hill
Saturday, February 21, 8:00 a.m., OAK CREEK TO
MCCULLOCH PEAK HIKE
PRE-REG W/LDR: BILL WYLIE 503-378-0315
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This is a loop trail in the McDonald Forest near
Corvallis. The trail follows mostly gravel
maintenance roads. There is a nice view over the
Willamette Valley from the top of McCulloch Peak.
Moderate pace.
RATED: MEDIUM, Driving dist RT 65 miles, HIKE
dist 9 miles, Elev. 1600 feet.
Saturday, February 21, 9:00 a.m., MINTO BROWN
PARK WALK, LAURA DEVRIES 503-363-4641
See Feb. 7 write-up.
Sunday, February 22, 8:00 a.m., SOUTH LAKE
PIONEER TRAIL AT MT. HEBO HIKE
PRE-REG W/LDR: SYLVIA DAWSON & DAVID
JACKSON 503-951-1293
Come join us as we experience this beautiful trail as
the Native Americans and early pioneers did. This
was the trail used to travel from the Willamette
Valley to the coast. We will venture through heavily forested
areas with some very large trees. Eventually we will come to
lovely open meadows with great views of the coast (provided
the day is clear). This trail is 16 miles but we will only do eight.
It is usually started at the Mt. Hebo State Campground. We
however, will start at the far end (South Lake). Both routes lead
into the open areas. According to The Chemeketan guidelines,
this is a definite "Medium" rated hike. However, according to
Bill Sullivan it is rated "Difficult". Wear your hiking boots and
bring your poles and lunch. We may stop for a snack on the
way home so bring money. Moderate pace.
RATED: MEDIUM-HARD, Driving dist RT 120 miles, HIKE dist
8 miles, Elev. 1500 feet.
Maxwell Shelter
Saturday, February 28, 8:00 a.m., SANTIAM CANYON
SNOWSHOE
PRE-REG W/LDR: MONA KNAPP, 503-473-3726
The plan is to find fresh beautiful new snow at Olga's
Outcropping in the Santiam Canyon, not too far past Detroit.
The plan may change depending on snow conditions.
Moderate pace.
RATED: MEDIUM, Driving dist RT 150 miles, SNOWSHOE
dist 6 miles, Elev. 700 feet.
Saturday, February 28, SKM, 9:00 a.m., SILVER FALLS
HIKE, PRE-REG W/LDR: DEBRA DAWES 503-781-8309
Silver Falls in February should be glorious with a high volume
of water coming over the falls, but be prepared for mud and icy
conditions. We will park at the North Falls lot, hike the Canyon
Trail and warm-up/lunch at the South Falls Lodge before
returning on the Rim Trail. Moderate pace.
RATED: MEDIUM, Driving dist RT 50 miles, HIKE dist 8 miles,
Elev. 600 feet.
Monday, February 23, 10:00 a.m., KOFFEE KLATCH AT
THE BEANERY, BILL ANNING
Wednesday, February 25, MAXWELL BUTTE X-SKI
PRE-REG W/LDR: DON GALLAGHER
Snow and road conditions permitting we will plan to ski a
Maxwell Sno-Park loop beginning and ending at Big Meadow
Road, including lunch at the shelter. Pre-register
with leader at dongall39@comcast.net. Moderate
pace. RATED: MEDIUM, Driving dist RT 150 miles,
X-SKI dist 6 miles, Elev. 600 feet.
Wednesday, February 25, 9:30 a.m.,
SHELLBURG FALLS HIKE
PRE-REG W/LDR: MARGARET SAXE
503-585-3209
It is always nice to visit a beautiful waterfall so close
to home. We will hike up to and past the waterfall,
through the woods and on to do the August
Mountain loop. We can also visit Stassel Falls on
the way back to the car if it is not too wet and
muddy. There is a large covered structure at the
campground where we can stop for lunch. Be
prepared for wet and muddy trails. Moderate pace.
RATED: EASY, Driving dist RT 50 miles, HIKE dist
4 miles, Elev. 1000 feet.
Silver Creek in Winter
Wednesday, February 25, AUDUBON RESERVE
RESTORATION, LEE SLATTUM 503-364-9325
See February 4 write-up.
Saturday, February 28, 9:00 a.m., MINTO BROWN PARK
WALK, LAURA DEVRIES 503-363-4641
See February 7 write-up.
Thursday, February 26, CENTER 50+ LUNCH
LEE SLATTUM 503-364-9325
See February 5 write-up.
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FUTURE EVENTS
Wednesday, April 8, 5:30 p.m., 2015 CHEMEKETAN CLIMB
SCHOOL, CLASSROOM SESSION #1 SALEM PUBLIC
LIBRARY - ANDERSON ROOM A/B
THERESA CONLEY, 541-231-0453
The 2015 Chemeketan Climb School is a great introduction to
basic mountaineering and rock climbing skills. Students attend
two classroom sessions and a weekend field session. The
Chemeketan Climb School, or an equivalent, is required to
participate in club-sponsored climbs. The classroom sessions
will be held in downtown Salem on Wednesday April 8th and
15th from 5:30-9:00 p.m. The field sessions will be held the
weekend of April 18th and 19th, where students will practice
rock skills at Columbia Hills State Park and snow skills on the
base of Mt Hood. We'll be camping Saturday night at the state
park and eating a buffet dinner at Spooky's Pizza in The
Dalles. The costs for both the camping and the buffet are
included in your registration fee ($155 for members and $175
for non-members).
Wednesday, April 15, 5:30 p.m., 2015 CHEMEKETAN
CLIMB SCHOOL CLASSROOM SESSION #2, SALEM
PUBLIC LIBRARY- ANDERSON ROOM A/B
THERESA CONLEY, 541-231-0453
See April 8 write-up.
Saturday-Sunday, April 18-April 19, 2015 CHEMEKETAN
CLIMB SCHOOL FIELD SESSIONS
THERESA CONLEY, 541-231-0453
See April 8 write-up.
Sunday-Sunday, May 17-May 24, 2015
CANYON DE CHELLY - NORTHEAST ARIZONA
PRE-REG W/LDR: HARDIN KING 503-845-9340
Extra week now offered. See description for May 24 -31.
Nine available spaces.
Sunday-Sunday, May 24-May 31, 2015
CANYON DE CHELLY - NORTHEAST ARIZONA
PRE-REG W/LDR: HARDIN KING 503-845-9340
ONE available space.
Base camp in beautiful Canyon de Chelly, hike 6-10 miles per
day, with elevation +/- of 1000’. See cliff dwellings of Anasazi
and native rock art of Anasazi/Ute/Hopi/Navajo. Become
acquainted with four generations of a Navajo family and share
potluck with them, be surrounded by the quiet beauty of patinacovered red rock canyon walls, turquoise blue sky with white
clouds, green riparian areas, see dramatic scattered high
desert flora, and sleep with canyon walls providing crystal clear
views of starry dark night skies. Call or email interest. Hardin
hardinking@hotmail.com. Moderate pace.
RATED: MEDIUM-HARD, WEEK HIKE dist 35 miles, Elev.
1000 feet.
Climb school students must be at least 16 years old by April
18th 2015 and any student under 18 years old must be
accompanied by a guardian who is a paid Climb School
participant. The guardian is expected to stay with and be
responsible for the younger participant throughout the
weekend field sessions.
The number of climb school participants is limited to 45. Please
register online at
http://www.chemeketans.org/climb_school.asp where further
information is available. You may also contact Theresa Conley
at theresamongolia@hotmail.com. RATED: MEDIUM-HARD.
WE WERE THERE
West Face of the Leaning Tower, a Big Wall Climb,
September 18 - 22
For a detailed trip report of this climb, see the February
ebulletin (page 12,13).
Fairmount Hills and Trails, December 15
A pleasant day to walk the streets and see the Christmas
decorations, some of which were already lighted, even in the
morning. The trails through the south end of the park were in
good condition, and the feeling of being away from the city is
there, even though we could hear the cars on River Road.
Houses are out of sight in this area. New Chemeketan Susan
Hoskins and leader Paula Hyatt ate their snacks in the nicely
improved section of the park playground, then ambled back to
the starting point via a different set of streets. A very pleasant
day!
Smith Creek/Buck Mt. Trails, December 10
Despite the all day drizzle the mood was positive for the seven
miles of "less often traveled" trail within Silver Falls State Park.
Finished the trip with a stop at the lodge and a late lunch in
front of the fire. Leader, Barb Schram was joined by Vera
Langer, Bev Hassell and Betsy Belshaw with a thanks to Betsy
for driving.
Winter Solstice Party, December 21
Chemeketans certainly do know how to party. Weather reports
mentioning two inches of rain gave us all cold feet about
hiking, but no one wanted to give up the party. We are good at
cooking, eating and rousing conversation no matter what the
predictions. Kicking off winter and welcoming the brighter days
ahead were: Christine and Michael Welsch (first qualifier?),
Bob Custer, Roz Shirack, Mary Liepins, Franca Hernandez,
Nancy Rockwell, Dave Carter, Rick Cooper, Don Gallagher,
Dorald Stoltz, Betsy Belshaw, Neil Peterson, Elizabeth Seibert,
George Susbauer and hosts, Jim and Mary Coleman.
Fairmount Art Walk, December 14
A rain-free December morning found ten Chemeketans
roaming the upscale Fairmount neighborhood in a gang.
Residents didn't seem alarmed; perhaps it was our age, or,
more likely, our cheerful demeanor. We checked out artembellished houses and enjoyed Christmas decorations as we
chatted and laughed. Along for the walk were members Ken
Ash, Phyllis Benanti, Ric LaTour, Susan LaTour, John Savage,
Roz Shirack, George Susbauer, Janet Templar, Wayne
Wallace, and leader Elizabeth Seibert.
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Willamette Mission State Park, December 27
High water and chilling winds greeted 14 hardy hikers for this
post-Christmas outing. A big thank you to Bill Anning who
helped guide us through four miles of the flooded park. Several
hikers concluded the event with warm drinks and snacks at a
local restaurant. Hikers included Chemeketan members: Bill
Anning, Rod Graves, Rosamund Irwin, Roz Shirack, Bill
Geibel, and Trish Rossitto. We had seven guests: Greg Olsen,
Jane Sommers, Gratia Robertson, Judi Morris, Mary Tippens,
Christine and Michael Welsche. Leader: Linda Willnow.
Willamette Mission Park Highwater Hikers
◄
West Face of the Leaning Tower
Beacon Rock - Taken from Oregon side of Columbia River on
12/13 Gorge Waterfalls hike. Photo by John Savage
February 2015
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West Face of the Leaning Tower, a Big Wall Climb,
September 18 - 22
the edge but tied into the fixed line that connected Guano
ledge with Ahwahnee ledge. I believe that the fixed line is the
same one I encountered five years earlier during my solo
ascent up the same route. Mmmm…
Ascent by Scott Phillips and Mike Rudy
Day 3: Heads Up
We woke to the Brazilians shuffling about getting ready for
their top out that day. They got a later start than they wanted
but would leave Mike and I plenty of time to fix our route and
make the goal today.
This is a trip report about the climb Mike Rudy and I did up the
West Face route of the Leaning Tower in Yosemite Valley. This
was the culmination of my Big Wall class I put on during the
weeks before we arrived to the valley.
Day 1: The Approach
Mike and I packed up our gear at the car and started up the
approach trail to the base of the West Face. We each had
ropes, water and trad gear that we would need for spending a
few nights on the wall as we progressed up the route. The well
cairned trail was about a half mile and 1000 ft elevation gain. I
know it doesn’t sound like much but the pigs weighed in about
65 pounds and we were looking forward to a couple of loads to
haul in.
No sooner had they launched off the Ahwahnee ledge did we
see the group of three quickly making their way up the route.
These guys were fast and we suspected them doing the route
in a day. They soon overtook Mike and I at the Ahwahnee
ledge and asked if they could climb through. We told them to
go for it and they were soon climbing past our position lead by
a very strong leader. They were from the UK but didn’t ask
their names. Come to find out the leader is Andy Kirkpatrick
(yes, THE Andy Kirkpartick), who gave a talk at the Yosemite
Face Lift that next week.
As we hiked the trail we saw a team of two Brazilians leading
up the third pitch on their way to Ahwahnee ledge.
The approach required us to double back on an ever narrowing
ledge that we would have to fix a line across to safely
negotiate. When we arrived we found that a fixed line was
already there, saving us the time of leading it. The pigs were
too heavy to bring in one load so we took out some of the gear
and ferried it across twice. The scramble wasn’t too hard but
having a 35 pound pig on your back with 400 ft of exposure
added to the excitement. The look on Mike's face after he
made his first crossing was absolutely priceless. Perhaps I
didn’t mention the traverse to him when I was describing the
route. Note to self. By the time we got back to our car it was
late and decided to make the second trip in the morning.
Letting them go ahead of us (did we really have a choice?), put
us behind. It wasn’t until 11 a.m. that we got on the route so we
were behind the gun to make it to the top of pitch 8 and rappel
back to the ledge for the night.
I lead out on the 45 degree upward sloping crack, which
started with a pendulum around a bulge leading to a roof with a
piece of fixed gear to clip into. I sewed it up to make it easier
for cleaning. The roof soon reversed to a narrow ledge that
petered out with sketchy placements and some run out (sorry
Mike), which makes it difficult for the second. As suspected,
Mike was challenged with cleaning the pitch. The run out
sections were short but the pendulum potential was a factor
and staying safe was sometimes difficult. All in all, Mike did an
awesome job for his first big wall route.
Day 2: Mike's First Big Wall Lead
We got up early enough to pack the second load and get on
the trail just around dawn. This second load was a little lighter
this time and we made better time than the day before. We
shuttled our load across the traverse and geared up for the first
couple of pitches. Mike lead off and made good progress until
the smoke rolled in. It just kind of snuck in behind us and you
couldn’t even see the valley floor, it was so thick. We were
both having a hard time breathing. Mike was able to link the
first two pitches together with the 60 meter rope.
Since we planned to sleep on the Ahwahnee ledge again, we
didn’t have to haul today, which saved a ton of time; we just
had to lead and clean. During the early afternoon we noticed
some clouds gathering above us. By the time we were on the
next pitch there was lightning and thunder about us but no rain
just yet; we continued on. By this time, yet another team, two
girls, Kim and Kris, were headed to Ahwahnee ledge. This is a
pretty busy route this week.
After getting the load hauled up to the belay I lead off to get us
up to the Ahwahnee ledge before dark. I was doing pretty well
but the crux of most wall routes is usually just before the next
belay, this one did not disappoint. I was kind of stumped for a
moment until I found a bat hook move to get me past the edge
and onto the ledge. It was still light and I set up for the haul but
failed to advise Mike of the time so he didn’t get his headlamp
out to clean the pitch. He released the pigs, and with the
overhang of the route the pigs were soon out of reach by about
30 feet. With light dwindling, Mike was motivated to rush the
cleaning process of the two pitches I linked together and made
it up to me with barely enough twilight for me to pass a
headlamp to him as he made his way to the ledge.
Pitch 6 was an upward traversing bolt ladder, pretty easy
actually; a little break from the previous pitch. As Mike cleaned
the pitch I noticed a few sprinkles coming down. It wasn’t too
bad so when Mike reached me I decided to continue on given
the lateness of the day and we had to make our mark to top
out the next day. I lead out as quickly as I could and continued
to feel sprinkles as I lead up. Luckily we were being protected
by the overhanging Leaning Tower and it was the wind that
was carrying the rain around to us. Had we been on a more
exposed route we would have been thoroughly soaked. We
could see the valley was getting the brunt of the rain and
everything looked very wet from our vantage point.
As Mike made his way up, I found out that the Brazilians had
fixed up to pitch 8, which is the same plan Mike and I had for
the next day. We also spotted a group of three making their
way up the approach trail to the base of the route. Now we
were going to be pressed to keep pace with them chasing our
tail, or so we thought.
This next pitch was the longest at 140 feet. All the placements
were bomber and lived up to the easiest C1 rating as
described on the topo. Unfortunately, I had to lead the last 40
feet in the dark as the sun settled behind the hills and I had to
pull out the headlamp to finish the pitch. We were not going to
make it to pitch 8 as planned but it was only 50 feet so the lost
distance could easily be made up the next day.
We settled in for the night with the Brazilians, sleeping next to
February 2015
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I told Mike that I would clean the pitch on rappel so he would
not have to jumar up. He rappelled back to the ledge to find
that Kim and Kris were just getting there. I fixed the rope and
left the gear hanging from the belay. As I rappelled I found it
hard to clean the route as I was suspended further and further
away from the crack I was cleaning. I managed somehow and
saw multiple headlamps on the ledge. The weather seemed to
be deteriorating as I was making my way down and hoped that
I would not be soaked by the time I got there and to my rain
gear. There was more lightning and thunder and I felt larger
drops.
righted myself and hoisted up to my last placement as Mike
pulled in rope. I found a much better placement to get to the
5.6 section and I was soon on the nice large, but sloping, belay
ledge.
As Mike made his way up I thought that he would have a tough
time cleaning the pitch so I settled in for a nap after finishing
the haul. My nap was truncated when he popped over the edge
about 20 minutes later. Oh well, back to work.
I lead off on pitch 10. It was late in the day but I managed to
make it to the top with time to spare before dark. By the time
Mike reached me the sun had set and he was once again
cleaning in the dark; headlamps were kept out this time
around.
By the time I got back to the ledge the lightning and thunder
was giving us a good show, along with the rain. Mike, Kim and
Kris had set up a few tarps to keep things dry and broke out
the food. Kris asked if we should be scared. I told her that we
really don’t have any choice in the matter and we’re better off
where we are instead of hanging from a portaledge at a belay
station. The light show soon passed by and the rain let up. For
the most part we got by with a heads up and not any real
damage was done. Soon after that we could see stars above
us.
High fives were exchanged and we threw the gear in a big pile
and ate. Kim and Kris kept at the route and they topped out
around midnight. It was a good day!
Day 5: The Descent
Technically, there is one more pitch which is a 40 foot
scramble to the top. After that there are a couple of rappels
down the backside. This is followed by a series of low angle
rappels down a crappy gully and finally two clean rappels down
a cliff face. The trick is to keep an eye out for the rappel
anchors.
Day 4: Top Out Day
We woke and packed our gear. I jumared up and set up the
haul to get off the ledge. Mike released the pigs and lowered
them out vertically 50 feet so they wouldn’t swing too much
and bust open against the wall face. Kim and Kris started
leading just after we got out of the way. After another haul we
were at our high point and ready to lead out on the 8th pitch. I
linked pitches 8 and 9. Pitch 8 was easy enough but pitch 9
was overhanging and problematic. I got through the
overhanging part after what seemed like forever. I ran into
some issues when I got to the part just before the 5.6 section. I
placed a cam hook to get up but I saw that it had shifted with
my full weight on it. I asked Mike to take up the slack in the
lead rope in case the piece popped. No sooner had Mike
pulled the rope in did the cam hook pop and I was on a joy ride
straight down. My feet were the last to come off the rock so I
flipped upside down and 15 feet lower. Nothing bruised or
broken. Actually, it was kind of fun, considering the outcome,
and the fact that I didn’t lose control over my bodily functions. I
For the gully, I used the gentle technique of lashing the two
pigs to my harness and kicking them behind me as I belayed
myself down. Mike guided the ropes as I descended and
followed on rappel to the next station. Each station was a
process of detangling the ropes and setting up to repeat the
process. We started the rappels around 9 a.m. and set foot in
the parking lot at 4:15 p.m. Kim and Kris were not far behind
us.
Pictures of the climb can be seen at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/107037469328239832631/West
FaceOfTheLeaningTower?authkey=Gv1sRgCKCa757Jr_bIIA#
Scott Phillips
◄ Scott
Mike►
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