ask an expert

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CelliniJewelers.com
800 CELLINI
NECKLACE WITH NATURAL, MULTI-COLOR DIAMONDS TOTALING 115.0 CARATS, SET IN 18-KARAT GOLD
WHITE DIAMOND JEWELRY SET IN 18-KARAT GOLD, FROM OUR EXCLUSIVE COLLECTION
CUFF WITH 14 ROWS OF ROUND BRILLIANT WHITE DIAMONDS TOTALING NEARLY 55 CARATS
RING WITH 5 ROWS OF ROUND BRILLIANT DIAMONDS TOTALING 20 CARATS
EARRINGS WITH MULTI-SHAPED DIAMONDS TOTALING 22 CARATS
COLLECTIONS
18 ARNOLD & SON celebrates 250 years with an
anniversary collection that unites innovation and style.
20 AUDEMARS PIGUET brightens up the Royal Oak
Offshore Chronograph with a bold white ceramic case.
24BULGARI shines brightly with the Lvcea, a new ladies
collection inspired by the sundial.
28CARTIER offers its unconventional take on tradition
with the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon.
36CHOPARD enjoys a victory lap with a collection
dedicated to the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique.
40 DE BETHUNE exercises its artistic license with the
DB28 Digitale’s analog and digital displays.
48 FRANCK MULLER brushes aside preconceived
horological limitations with the Giga Tourbillon.
52GIRARD-PERREGAUX focuses on precision with its
award-winning Constant Escapement L.M. in white gold.
56 GREUBEL FORSEY puts its unique spin on the second
time zone display with the groundbreaking GMT.
60 H. MOSER & CIE. balances classic and contemporary
in the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Black Edition.
62HUBLOT scores big with the King Power Special One,
which honors Chelsea’s soccer coach José Mourinho.
64HYT adds a splash of color to its hydro-mechanical watches
with new red and blue hour indicators.
66IWC honors the famed naturalist with the bronze Aquatimer
Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin.”
74JAEGER-LECOULTRE combines classic complications
in the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique
à Quantième Perpétuel.
78 LUDOVIC BALLOUARD lives in the moment with the
Half Time’s playful and novel rotating display.
80 PARMIGIANI FLEURIER reaches back into history
for the telescoping hands of the Ovale Pantographe.
COLLECTIONS
84 RICHARD MILLE sails into uncharted waters with the
RM 60-01 Regatta Flyback Chronograph’s advanced design.
88 ULYSSE NARDIN sets the tone for the industry with the
Imperial Blue’s melodic Westminster chimes.
92 VACHERON CONSTANTIN exemplifies the best in
complications and craftsmanship with the Traditionnelle
14-day Tourbillon.
96WALTHAM returns and introduces the historic brand to
a new generation with its sporty Aeronaval collection.
100WELLENDORFF casts an irresistible spell with bejeweled talismans that conjure elegance and exquisite craftsmanship.
102ZENITH adds to the legend of a modern watchmaking icon
with the El Primero 410.
FEATURES
8
CELLINI JEWELERS New York City’s luxury landmark
shines a spotlight on black gold jewelry and goes through
the looking glass with transparent gemstones. We also
revisit some of our favorite “Ask An Expert” columns from
iW Magazine.
44 COVER STORY We look in our own backyard to find one
of New York’s most recognizable clocks. Discover the story
behind the Hotel Waldorf-Astoria clock tower’s remarkable
journey.
68 CULINARY CAMEOS Discovering a good restaurant
in an unusual place takes imagination and ingenuity. We
uncover five hidden gems challenging the notion that
location is everything.
104CLOCKWISE A glossary of horological terms
ABOUT THE COVER A gift from Queen Victoria of England
to America, this ornate bronze clock tower made its debut in 1893
at the Chicago World’s Fair. For more than a century, it has chimed
the quarter hours for guests in the Hotel Waldorf-Astoria.
EDITOR IN CHIEF
MICHAEL GRAZIADEI
ART DIRECTOR, PHOTO DIRECTOR
SAMANTHA HICKEY
MANAGING EDITOR
SCOTT HICKEY
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
ELISE BRENNER
JONATHAN BUES
AMY COHEN
TANYA DUKES
VICTORIA GOMELSKY
JAMES LAMDIN
COPY EDITOR, CONTRIBUTING WRITER
RACHEL YOUNG
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
DAVID KATZ
BJÖRG MAGNEA
FOR A COMPLIMENTARY
SUBSCRIPTION OR
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION,
PLEASE CALL
8OO CELLINI
VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT
CelliniJewelers.com
STATUS is an annual publication by Cellini Jewelers.
Copyright ©2014
Reproduction without permission is prohibited
ON OUR WATCH
W
elcome to another edition of Status, where we showcase a carefully
curated selection of timepieces from the world’s finest watch
brands. See time in a new light as our writers share their insight
about the latest watchmaking innovations. It’s those intriguing
twists on the ancient art of horology that keep enthusiasts constantly engaged
and excited about expanding their collections.
Whether you’re a seasoned collector or thinking about buying your first fine
timepiece, you won’t want to miss the selection of “Ask An Expert” columns written
by Cellini President Leon Adams. Every month in iW Magazine, he answers readers’
questions about watches and offers his unique take on the industry.
For our cover story, Rachel Young explores the history behind one of New York
City’s most iconic clocks. Once you read it, you’ll want to see it for yourself in the
lobby of the Waldorf-Astoria New York Hotel. Beyond the world of horology,
Culinary Cameos satisfies a different kind of craving as Amy Cohen leads the way
to great meals in unusual locations.
We hope you enjoy reading Status and always welcome your feedback. If you
would like more information about any of the timepieces in this issue, please call
800-CELLINI or email us at Status@CelliniJewelers.com. Look for the online
version of Status in the Catalogs & Publications section at CelliniJewelers.com.
Michael Graziadei
Editor in Chief
CELLINI JEWELERS
Don’t Be Afraid
of the
DARK
Precious metal shows off its precocious
side as black gold steps out of the
shadows and into the spotlight.
The diamonds may
glitter like stars against
the blackened gold mesh,
but this wide cuff bracelet
looks striking anytime,
making it the ultimate
day-to-night piece.
A
lthough it projects an air of
mystery, there is no secret
surrounding how this special gold gets its dark patina. Unlike other colored gold — be it
white, rose, blue, green, gray, or even
purple — black gold is not an alloy.
Instead of mixing metals, its dark
shade can be created several ways, including PVD coating, a technique used
frequently in watchmaking. The predominant method for jewelry, however,
8
is electroplating. Most black gold starts
out as white gold. To achieve its dark
shade, the gold is cloaked beneath a layer of either black rhodium or ruthenium.
In fine jewelry today, the popularity
of black gold is exploding, driven in
large part to its inexhaustible versatility. Unlike white gold, which is usually
more formal, black gold mirrors any
look, from edgy to elegant. See for yourself with this selection of pieces that
aren’t afraid of the dark. ¨
All photographs by David Katz
Swirling lines of white
diamonds edged in black
gold wind around these
teardrop-shaped pendant
earrings to amplify the
multi-color sapphires.
Black gold complements
most colors, but it also
adapts to different styles,
including the antique
feel of this opal ring
with brown diamonds.
Content to blend into the background, black gold focuses attention on
the gems, allowing the vivid sapphires and fiery opals to take center stage.
9
All photographs by David Katz
CELLINI JEWELERS
Through
the
LOOKING
GLASS
These colorful jewelry creations play
with perception by using transparent
gemstones to add striking depth to
the intricate patterns below.
T
he collection offers a modern
take on a style of inverted intaglio jewelry developed thousands of years ago. But instead
of carving an image into the back of
a gemstone, these designs are built
from the bottom up with nearly all
of the elaborate metalwork and gem
setting topped by faceted quartz,
amethyst and topaz. This delightfully
counterintuitive look will certainly
spark its share of conversations.
Join us now as we explore this
jewelry wonderland, where things
get “curiouser and curiouser” when
we peer through the looking glass.
Necklace, ring and earrings with
white diamonds, yellow sapphires
and green tourmaline set underneath faceted yellow quartz, in
18-karat green and yellow gold.
10
Necklace, ring and earrings
with white diamonds, pink
sapphires and pink tourmalines
set underneath faceted pink
amethyst, in 18-karat rose gold.
All photographs by David Katz
Necklace and rings with
black and white diamonds,
set underneath faceted rock
crystal, in 18-karat white
and black gold.
Earrings and ring
with brown diamonds,
orange sapphires and
amethyst set underneath
faceted brown quartz,
in 18-karat yellow gold.
Earrings and ring with white
diamonds, aquamarines, blue
sapphires and black sapphires
set underneath faceted blue
topaz, in 18-karat white and
black gold.
11
CELLINI JEWELERS
Ask An
EXPERT
For the last two
years, Cellini Jewelers
President Leon Adams
has appeared in iW Magazine,
answering readers’ questions about
fine timepieces in his column,
“Ask An Expert.” During that time,
he’s shared his insight about everything
from collecting and maintaining watches,
to explaining what makes them tick.
B
efore the column
begins its third year,
Cellini and iW look back
on a selection of some of
the most popular columns
from past issues.
If you would like to
ask the expert a question, email
AskCellini@finelifemedia.com.
Be sure to check out upcoming
issues of iW Magazine for
the answer, as well as the
latest news from the world
of watches.
Photograph by Björg Magnea
W
HOW DO I GET THE BEST DEAL ON A NEW WATCH?
hen you weigh every factor, I would say the best
deals are found at authorized retailers.
First, only an authorized dealer can guarantee that
the timepiece you’re purchasing is new and not used,
refurbished — or worse — counterfeit. The flood of fake
luxury watches is a major concern today because the
Internet has made distributing them so easy. According to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry,
counterfeiters produce 25 percent more watches than
Switzerland every year. What makes the situation even
more perilous for consumers is that counterfeits are
getting much harder to recognize, even by seasoned
collectors.
Enticing, but still extremely risky, are gray-market
watches, which are authentic timepieces sold by unauthorized dealers. Forget for a moment that the watch
comes from a secondary seller and is therefore technically used. What’s more important is that a watch pur-
chased like this does not come with a valid manufacturer’s warranty card. As a result, you’ll bear the full
cost of any repairs. Without the card, some brands will
even refuse to work on the watch at all. That means
you’ll need to take it to an independent watchmaker
who does not have access to factory-authorized parts.
By shopping at an authorized dealer, you avoid all
these issues and can enjoy several additional perks.
For instance, some retailers offer extended warranties
beyond the manufacturer’s warranty. Plus, you can try
on different watches to see what looks best on your
wrist. You can’t do that online. It is possible to find a
watch cheaper on the Internet, but you need to compare how much you’re saving versus what you’re losing in peace of mind.
Think of it this way: Would you ever buy a car,
sight-unseen, from an anonymous dealer, with no way
to test drive it and no warranty to back it up?
Cellini’s boutique in the Waldorf-Astoria New York hotel
13
ASK AN EXPERT
CELLINI JEWELERS
DOES A WATCH NEED TO BE A LIMITED EDITION TO BE COLLECTIBLE?
A
bsolutely not. Rarity obviously plays a
key role in determining a watch’s collectability, but it’s not the only factor. Demand
and changing tastes are also important.
First, let me say that I believe the way
the industry uses the term limited edition today is often misleading. For the buyer, it’s
important to understand that a limited edition watch is not necessarily a rare watch.
That’s because many brands diminish the
collectability of their special editions by not
establishing and adhering to clear production limits.
For instance, it’s fairly common for a
brand to announce that it’s making 50 pieces
of a certain model in platinum. What usually
happens next is the brand unveils a limited
edition rose gold version and then a stainless steel version. Before you know it, that
limited edition isn’t so exclusive anymore.
Grand Complication
by A. Lange & Söhne
IF YOU WANT A LIMITED EDITION
THAT IS TRULY RARE, SEEK OUT
WATCHMAKERS THAT LIMIT PRODUCTION OF THE WATCH MOVEMENT, NOT THE METAL CASE.
Probably the most frustrating thing for a
collector is when a brand reintroduces a previously sold-out limited edition. To justify it,
they make cosmetic changes to the original,
like adding a different dial or changing the
color of the hands. But is it really a new
watch? Regardless of how you answer, I think
it speaks to a larger issue, which is that
some brands don’t value the integrity of their
collection.
Thankfully, however, a few brands still
do. If you want a limited edition that is truly
rare, seek out watchmakers that limit production of the watch movement, not the metal case. That’s a huge distinction, because
you know from the start how many special
editions will be made. As a collector, that’s
all you can ask for.
14
Malte Tourbillon
Collection Excellence Platine
by Vacheron Constantin
CAN I DAMAGE MY MECHANICAL WATCH
BY ADJUSTING THE TIME BACKWARD?
I
f your watch doesn’t have calendar indications or a
moon phase, turning the hands counter-clockwise
shouldn’t cause problems. For example, if you fly from
New York to Los Angeles, it shouldn’t hurt the movement if you set the time back three hours when you
land. But to be certain, always consult the owner’s
manual for your specific model.
It’s a different story, however, if your watch does
include those functions, because moving the hour
hand backward through midnight can damage the
gears that control the related displays.
Furthermore, you risk inflicting costly damage to
the movement if you attempt to make calendar adjustments during certain hours. Never change a calendar
display if the time indicated by the watch is between
9 p.m. and 2 a.m., which is typically when the gears
are in motion and vulnerable. If the watch has stopped
and you’re not sure if the time showing is 10 a.m. or
10 p.m., turn the hands until you find midnight and
then set the time outside the danger zone. As a reminder of this rule, Jaeger-LeCoultre even added a
special indicator to its Master Ultra Thin Perpetual.
Located near the center of the dial, it changes color
when it’s unsafe to make adjustments. As a precaution, I’ve gotten into the habit of setting the time
to 6:30 before I make any calendar adjustments to my
watches.
Having said that, there are some rare and notable
exceptions. A handful of brands — including H. Moser
& Cie. and Ulysse Nardin — produce movements that
are specifically designed to avoid these risks. With
these watches, you will not damage the movement if
you make an adjustment backward through midnight
or during that overnight danger zone.
Master Ultra Thin Perpetual by Jaeger-LeCoultre
El Toro Perpetual Calendar by Ulysse Nardin
15
ASK AN EXPERT
CELLINI JEWELERS
DO THE NUMBER OF JEWELS IN A MECHANICAL
MOVEMENT INFLUENCE ITS VALUE?
W
hen you admire a movement made by Vacheron
Constantin or Parmigiani and see how much
the rubies enhance the aesthetics, it’s easy to forget
that those tiny jewels actually play a large role in the
function of the watch.
The gears and pinions in a watch’s going train
are mounted on spindles that rotate in between the
movement plates. Even with lubrication, this metal-on-metal contact causes a great deal of friction
and as a result, the parts wear out relatively quickly.
In the 18th century, watchmakers overcame this
issue by introducing jewel bearings made from real
diamonds, rubies and sapphires. When polished,
these naturally durable gems provide a smooth surface that reduces friction and increases the longevity of key components, like the mainspring barrel, the
center wheel and parts of the escapement.
Today, nearly all the jewel bearings used in
Perpetual Calendar, Black Edition by H. Moser & Cie.
16
mechanical watches are synthetic rubies. Developed in
the early 1900s, these man-made gems are less expensive, but just as effective. Because the gems are synthetic, they really don’t impact the value of the watch.
However, the number of jewels can give you an indication of the movement’s complexity. For example, a basic three-hand watch might require 17 jewels, while a
technically advanced watch like the DSTB from Arnold
& Son has almost twice as many.
Some watchmakers like H. Moser & Cie. take it
even one step further by setting the jewels in gold
chatons before securing them to the movement. It takes
a great deal of skill and patience to do this, but the
results are often visually stunning, especially in the
Black Edition of the Moser Perpetual.
So to answer your question: No, the number of jewels doesn’t increase the value of a watch, but they do
contribute significantly to its performance and beauty.
DSTB by
Arnold & Son
Audemars Piguet – Ladies Royal Oak
Cartier – Ballon Bleu
Royal Oak Offshore Quartz by Audemars Piguet
Ballon Blue by Cartier
Tonda Metropolitaine by Parmigiani Fleurier
I’D LIKE TO GIVE MY WIFE A WATCH FOR OUR ANNIVERSARY.
SHOULD I CONSIDER A MECHANICAL OR QUARTZ MOVEMENT?
I
f you’d asked me a few years
ago, my answer absolutely
would have been quartz. However,
it’s changing.
Before 2010, it was rare that an
American woman would consider a
mechanical movement. The opposite is true in Asia, where women
prefer mechanical watches almost
exclusively. In response to strong
sales in Asia, watch brands have
dramatically increased production
of mechanical movements for
women — everything from basic
automatics to high complications
like tourbillons. As a result, women
have more options today than ever
before. Brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet, Cartier and
Piaget even offer some models with
quartz or mechanical movements.
So before you choose a watch for your wife, weigh the different advantages
each movement offers.
Quartz is still the most popular choice in America for several reasons:
n Easy to use. Many women don’t want to wind or re-set a mechanical
movement after it runs down.
n Accuracy. Quartz movements are extremely accurate.
n Cost. A quartz watch usually costs less than a comparable
mechanical model.
n Maintenance. It might take a week to replace the battery in a quartz
watch every few years. Servicing a mechanical movement every four or
five years, however, can take months.
Demand is growing for mechanical movements among women:
n Prestige. A watch aficionado, regardless of gender, appreciates the
work that goes into making a mechanical movement and won’t accept
anything less.
n Intrinsic value. A mechanical watch is much more expensive to
produce than the average quartz movement. As a result, it maintains
more of its value in the secondary market.
n Sneak attack. The battery in a quartz watch can die on you unexpect edly. That won’t happen with a mechanical movement, because you can
always wind your watch. ¨
17
ARNOLD & SON
Every Second COUNTS
BY SCOTT HICKEY
Arnold & Son celebrates its 250th
anniversary with innovative and
exquisite timepieces that uphold
its founding family’s traditions.
T
he company started in
1764, the year that
English horologist
John Arnold presented a repeater watch —
the smallest of its day —
to King George III as a gift
for the monarch’s birthday.
After making watches for
the aristocracy, Arnold
expanded his legacy a few
years later by revolutionizing maritime navigation and
creating highly accurate chronometers that allowed sailors to
determine longitude while at sea.
ANCHORS AWEIGH
That nautical heritage can be seen
clearly in the form of an anchor-shaped
lever on the front of the limited edition
DSTB. The acronym stands for Dial Side
True Beat, which describes the watch’s
namesake complication.
With most mechanical watches, the seconds hand rotates smoothly around the dial,
making it difficult to read the exact second.
In contrast, a true beat mechanism is easier
to read because it forces the seconds hand to
pause for every increment. For the DSTB, the true beat mechanism is
exposed and given pride of place atop the movement plate. To better
spotlight the mechanical show, a transparent seconds register frames
the wheels, gold bridges and anchor-shaped lever as they work.
Turn the watch over and the DSTB’s self-winding movement is visible through the clear caseback attached to the 43.5mm red gold case.
To maintain the exclusivity of this special anniversary timepiece,
production will be limited to only 50 watches.
18
The constant motion of the DSTB’s signature
true beat mechanism is captivating to see in
action. Presented in a 43.5mm red gold case, the
watch will be produced as a limited edition of
50 pieces.
The DSTB is part of the Instrument Collection, a group inspired by the precise and
durable timekeepers John Arnold and his son Roger made for the British Royal Navy
and other marine explorers. Another member of that collection is the Time Pyramid.
The stainless steel version introduced this year at Baselworld is garnering a
great deal of attention. One look and you’ll understand why. Shaped like a pyramid, Arnold & Son’s skeleton movement is a vision of symmetric beauty from
the balance wheel up top, to the crown at the bottom of the 44.6mm case.
NOBLE PEDIGREE
From top:
Instantly recognizable, the
inspired symmetry of the
Time Pyramid’s skeleton
movement includes
matching power reserve
indicators on opposite
sides of the sapphire
crystal hour ring.
The firm also offers the Royal Collection, a showcase for watches that combines technical complexity with fine craftsmanship. The HM Perpetual Moon
captures the spirit of the collection with a dramatic moon phase display that
rises from the cream-colored dial. The level of detail is remarkable, from the
crater- pocked gold moon to the waves of guilloché covered with translucent blue
lacquer that make up the background.
A similar shade of blue takes over the dial of the red gold version of the TEC1. Its
dagger-shaped hour markers echo the pointed tips found on the bridge that secures
the tourbillon in place. Lines engraved on the main plate radiate behind the whirling
mechanism and draw the eye deeper into the design.
In addition to the tourbillon, the automatic movement
also features a column-wheel chronograph that’s activated by the pushers on the side of the 45mm case.
Extremely rare, the TEC1 is a limited edition of just
28 pieces.
As Arnold & Son observes its 250-year milestone, Cellini Jewelers joins the celebration by
adding the historic brand to its collection.
Cellini President Leon Adams explains why
he’s a fan. “We only share brands that we think
are unique and innovative, and Arnold & Son is
one of the most exciting brands I’ve seen in a
while.” ¨
The HM Perpetual Moon’s
irresistible bas-relief gold
moon traces an arc across
the cream-colored dial to
indicate the current lunar
phase. This version, one of
three, comes in a 42mm
red gold case.
The waves of guilloché beneath the
translucent blue lacquer dial add depth to
the TEC1, which includes a tourbillon and a
column-wheel chronograph. Production of
this red gold version is limited to 28 pieces.
19
AUDEMARS PIGUET
The 44mm Royal Oak Offshore
Chronograph in white ceramic
features a sapphire crystal
caseback, the first-ever for
an Offshore.
First In CLASS
BY TANYA DUKES
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and Royal Oak
Offshore timepieces uphold — and advance —
their original mission: encouraging a spirit
of watchmaking innovation.
A
udemars Piguet is a storied manufacture with
a catalog of innovations that includes
the world’s first minute repeater
and jumping hour timepieces. To
understand the firm’s modern
history, however, it’s essential
to know the place of the Royal
Oak collections in its story.
When first introduced in 1972,
the Royal Oak caused shockwaves
across the watch industry as the
first high-end timepiece made in
steel. It was a revolutionary
move, not only because gold
dominated as the traditional
material of the time, but also because of the unprecedented technical prowess required to finish a
steel watch to precise haute horlogerie standards. The Royal Oak —
and its later offshoot, the sporty Royal
Oak Offshore — was the start of a groundbreaking legacy that not only marked the birth of an iconic
design, but also a new era in watchmaking.
The engraved oscillating weight (above) that powers the
Offshore’s 55-hour power reserve is visible through its
new clear caseback.
MATERIAL ISSUES
With one of the newest additions to the Royal Oak portfolio,
Audemars Piguet’s reputation for daring design continues.
This time, the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph line leads the charge. One of the
latest models features a white
ceramic case on a white-rubber
strap. This version marks a
stylistic expansion of the
boundaries for men’s sports
watches and is a striking
counterpoint to a black ceramic model that launched
last year to mark the Royal
Oak Offshore’s 20th anniversary. Its pristine palette would,
at first glance, seem to disqualify
the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph from the rough and
tumble worlds of sport, but
its durability and a long list
of features belie its good
looks.
The watch’s 44mm case
and bezel are composed of an
ultra-hard white ceramic
that’s nine times stronger than
steel and impervious to most
scratches. As would be expected from a
material that is so resistant to damage, it’s
challenging and labor intensive to create ceramic
watch components. In fact, it takes about eight times longer
to make the bezel in white ceramic rather than stainless
steel. As a bonus, the material adds strength without heft
since ceramic parts weigh less than metal ones. This makes
the watch substantial without being heavy, a quality that’s
heightened by the use of lightweight titanium for the pushpiece guards and other elements.
21
AUDEMARS PIGUET
That same level of painstaking workmanship also resides
within the case. The light silver dial bears the brand’s signature méga tapisserie motif and is ringed by a blue inner bezel
and applied, white-gold hour markers that are visible in darkness thanks to a luminescent coating. Red-handed chronograph counters are easily legible on the otherwise blue and
white palette, underscoring the precision of the movement,
which is on display through the sapphire crystal caseback —
the first time ever that a Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph has
had a visible movement.
Where the white ceramic version gives the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph a crisp, almost futuristic look, this new
42mm stainless steel version offers subtle updates to the
watch’s now-classic aesthetic. Both share the same textured
méga tapisserie dial and powerful engine — the in-house
caliber 3126/3840 — but the navy edition uses black ceramic
for its screw-down crown and chronograph pushers.
Their distinct personalities underscore the versatility
of the Royal Oak Offshore and its capacity to evolve, while
remaining true to the essence of its design legacy.
Orange chrono hands stand out against the silver-toned
counters to provide superior legibility in this 42mm stainless
steel Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph.
COMPLICATED CHOICES
Now thinner, this 37mm Royal Oak Offshore Quartz is available
in either rose gold or stainless steel.
22
For more than a century, Audemars Piguet has created
timepieces for women. Today, they exhibit the same combination of sporty sophistication represented in the men’s
collection, albeit created in proportions that are sensitive
to female wearers with exceptional jeweled options that
unite the worlds of watches and fine-jewelry technique.
The Royal Oak Offshore Quartz model is faithful to
the signatures of the original design, from its méga
tapisserie dial to the nautically inspired, porthole shaped
bezel and hexagonal screws that secure it in place. Its
37mm case is generous without being overwhelming, and
exhibits a play of materials — rose gold and diamonds
pair comfortably with rubber — that gracefully mixes
elegant ornamentation and function.
Women with an appreciation for a deeper level of watchmaking complication will gravitate toward the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph. The self-winding chronograph features a
small seconds and a date display, plus a robust, 40-hour
power reserve. Proving that there’s no need to sacrifice glamour for strong performance and durability, the radiant timepiece is water resistant to 50 meters and features a screwlocked crown. More than 30 diamonds are featured on the rose
gold bezel. Sophisticated both aesthetically and mechanically,
the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph is a clear expression of
Audemars Piguet’s commitment to producing exceptional
mechanical watches expressly for women.
Technical and feminine, the 37mm Ladies’ Royal Oak Offshore
Chronograph is offered in a range of case materials.
The Royal Oak’s signature hexagonal screws secure the
diamond-set bezel to the 37mm rose gold case that houses an
automatic movement.
With its lithe, self-possessed elegance, the ladies’
Self-Winding Royal Oak is a masterful expression of classical
watchmaking. At its heart lies caliber 3120, an in-house
movement that’s wound by a gold oscillating weight that
bears the Audemars and Piguet family crests. Composed
of warm rose gold with a silvered dial, the watch features
center seconds and a date display, and offers a 60-hour
power reserve. Every element within its 37mm case, and the
extraordinary finishing of every component that meets the
eye is the culmination of nearly 140 years of watchmaking
finesse.
Since its earliest days, Audemars Piguet has crafted timepieces that made the rest of the world stand at attention. That
was never truer than with the introduction of the Royal Oak
Offshore, just over 20 years ago. Its legacy is still a signal
influence today, as it advances the category of elite sport
timepieces, and every dimension of its own manufacture. ¨
23
BULGARI
In rose gold with diamonds, or in steel and
rose gold, the Lvcea epitomizes elegance.
24
Let There Be LIGHT
BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
Bulgari celebrates 130 years of excellence with two watch collections destined
to become classics in its ever-expanding repertoire of luxury timepieces.
B
ulgari’s newest ladies’ watch
collection, Lvcea, pays homage to humankind’s earliest
timekeeping instrument,
the sundial. The name, borrowed
from luce and lux — the Italian and
Latin words for “light,” respectively — is also meant to evoke
the light of Rome, which has
inspired Bulgari’s artisans
since the company was
founded in the Eternal
City in 1884.
L v c e a ’s s i m p l e
round case is distinguished by an oversized
crown, which features a
pink cabochon gemstone
set with a sparkling diamond. The collection evokes
Bulgari’s iconic coiled-snake
motif with a Serpenti-inspired
bracelet. Its graceful scales form a
gleaming band in steel, gold or a beguiling combination thereof, with or
without diamonds.
Lvcea’s self-winding mechanical
movement is endowed with a 42-hour
power reserve.
TWELVE BEAUTIES
With 12 distinct styles, the Lvcea collection opens
with a simple steel model in a diameter of 28mm or
33mm. The latter version comes with either a
silver-toned dial or its luxe counterpart, a motherof-pearl dial set with brilliant-cut diamond hour
markers.
The next iteration of the Lvcea boasts a
steel and rose gold case on a bracelet with
alternating steel and rose gold links.
These are offset by a sleek black dial
marked by a sunburst guilloché
motif, rose gold-plated hands and
Roman numeral hour markers.
Versatile enough to transition
seamlessly from day to night,
Lvcea comes in a captivating twotone combination of steel and rose gold
with a mother-of-pearl dial that perfectly
embodies the luminosity of its namesake
inspiration.
The culmination of the Lvcea collection is a
fetching 33mm model featuring a rose gold case set
with 43 brilliant-cut diamonds (totaling approximately 1.2 carats), a rose gold bracelet sparkling
with 117 brilliant-cut diamonds (totaling nearly 2
carats), and the pièce de résistance, a guilloché black
dial gleaming with diamond-set hour markers.
Timeless grace, versatility and respect for
Bulgari’s subtle yet defining codes will no doubt
make Lvcea a favorite among aficionados of the
brand and newcomers alike.
25
BULGARI
FIGURE EIGHT
Whereas the Lvcea collection reflects Bulgari’s legacy of femininity
in a classic rounded ladies’ model, the house’s utterly masculine
men’s collection, Octo, takes an opposite yet complementary tack.
Distinguished by an eight-sided case that boasts 110 different facets, the Octo’s shiny and satin-finished surfaces create a nuanced
effect that suggests there’s plenty more to this bold timepiece than
meets the eye.
Crafted by artisans in the alpine villages of the Swiss Jura, the
spiritual heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry, the timepieces in
the Octo collection feature clean, uncluttered dials whose only concession to ornament are the numbers six and twelve — a signature
of Bulgari watches since the 1940s. The other hour markers are subtly faceted to match the model’s characteristic angles and lines.
The house’s commitment to watchmaking has grown steadily,
and it now possesses all the technology and necessary craftsmanship to create its timepieces under one roof. With complete control
over its watchmaking production, Bulgari is poised to create even
more exceptional timepieces in-house.
The latest additions to the Octo line are prime examples of its
expertise as a manufacture. Not only has the collection expanded to
include a new 38mm version, but now it also encompasses a new
chronograph version, as well as two stylish ultra-thin models that
are slender enough to slip beneath a dress cuff.
Above: The polished black lacquer dial provides a dark
contrast to the Octo Solotempo’s 41mm steel case.
The 40mm platinum version of
the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon
boasts the thinnest tourbillon
movement ever made.
26
A LITTLE MEANS A LOT
For fans of high complications, the Octo collection’s crowning
achievement is an extra-slim tourbillon model that marries
the best of Swiss watchmaking with the finest traditions of
Italian style. Believe it or not, the movement that powers the
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon is just 1.95mm thick. (The exact
thickness of a nickel!)
The watchmaking team responsible for this remarkable
achievement began with the tourbillon cage, which they determined would not exceed a thickness of 1.95mm. They used ball
bearings — in place of jewel bearings — for the moving parts:
seven on the basic movement, a cartridge bearing on the tourbillon cage and a final ball bearing to allow the escape wheel to
pivot. The engineers also eliminated the regulator assembly,
helping to make the movement thinner. The finished result
clocks in as the thinnest tourbillon movement ever made.
Bulgari’s watchmakers carried on their quest for thinness
with the Octo Finissimo, whose in-house, hand-wound movement measures 2.23mm thick. With its 40mm platinum case
and sober black lacquered dial, the Octo Finissimo is an elegant and classic dress watch that, thanks to its bold octagonal
frame, looks refreshingly modern. The timepiece displays hours
and minutes, and boasts a small off-center seconds hand. The
power reserve, shown on the back, is an impressive 70 hours.
The Octo Finissimo
has a total thickness
of 5mm.
SETTING THE TEMPO
New this year, the Octo Solotempo is now available in a
38mm model powered by a house-manufactured, self-winding mechanical movement that features an hour, minute and
second display, as well as a date window.
The model retains the chief characteristic of the Octo
collection — an eight-sided case framing a round bezel —
but balances the manly aesthetic with a simple, classical
time display. The modular architecture of the timepiece
lends itself to expansion — so don’t be surprised to find this
enchanting model in a complicated version in the near
future. For now, however, four versions exist: steel or rose
gold on a leather strap, steel with a solid steel bracelet, or a
steel case on a steel and rose gold bracelet (shown). Like its
cohorts in the Octo collection, the model is the perfect combination of Swiss perfection and Italian creativity. ¨
Left: Rose gold on the 38mm Octo Solotempo’s white lacquered
dial complements the gold and steel two-tone bracelet.
27
CARTIER
Upon request, a lapis lazuli disc
emerges from behind the dial to
cover the tourbillon and recreate the
current lunar phase. Production of
the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and
Moon is limited to just 50 pieces.
Fly Me To The MOON
Cartier shines with a rare combination of watchmaking artistry
and aptitude that comes along once in a blue moon.
BY SCOTT HICKEY
T
he celebrated Parisian firm introduced one of the
year’s most intriguing watches with the Rotonde de
Cartier Earth and Moon. A marvel both inside and
out, this limited edition (50 pieces) strikes an ideal
balance between the brand’s technical expertise and its inimitable style.
Lapis lazuli provides a vibrant blue backdrop against
the white gold that forms the layered dial. The Cartier aesthetic figures prominently throughout as exhibited by the
Roman numerals stretching out around the chermin de fer
(rail-track) minute scale that circles the stylized globe at the
top of the dial. Nestled inside is a rotating 24-hour display
for the watch’s GMT function, which is advanced by pushing the top button on the side of the 47mm platinum case.
The other button controls the timepiece’s signature feature — an on-demand moon phase indicator. The brand’s
new in-house movement tracks the lunar cycle internally,
but only displays it when requested. That alone qualifies as
an impressive horological feat. Cartier being Cartier, however, found a way to push the boundaries even further.
Fully in keeping with the brand’s unconventional take
on this traditional astronomical complication, the rotating
disc normally used to indicate the moon’s phases has been
replaced by a spinning tourbillon. But how does it work?
When the button is pushed, a lapis lazuli disc swings out
from behind the numeral IIII and in front of the tourbillon
to precisely recreate the shape of the illuminated moon in
the night sky.
The view of the Cartier-made movement is equally impressive. The bridges are sculpted to form an intricate web
that looks like stars twinkling around jewel bearings. That
celestial aura is amplified by the extensive hand finishing,
which produces a brilliant show when light bounces off the
multitude of beveled edges.
Produced exclusively by Cartier, this beautifully finished
movement includes a tourbillon, on-demand moon
phase indicator and a second time zone function.
29
CARTIER
CIRCULAR TIME
At the same time that Cartier is taking the moon
phase display to new heights, it’s also shaking up
another classic complication with its groundbreaking reinterpretation of the perpetual calendar in the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire.
The display encompasses three concentric
circles centered around a flying tourbillon cage.
Each circle represents a different aspect of the
calendar, starting with the day on the innermost
ring, then the month and finally the date on the
outside. Each tier features a blue window-shaped
hand that highlights the pertinent calendar information. In addition to being distinctive aesthetically, the arrangement is more conducive to rapid
readability than the relatively small sub-dials
typically used for perpetual calendar watches.
Conceived and produced by Cartier, the movement that makes the Astrocalendaire’s concentric
display possible also includes a number of performance enhancements designed to improve the
experience of owning a perpetual calendar. Without a doubt, perpetual calendars are amazing
machines that diligently calculate the irregular
lengths of months and leap years. However, one
must be careful when adjusting the calendar,
because a correction made late in the evening can
damage the caliber.
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire’s unconventional perpetual
calendar display uses concentric circles that surround the flying
tourbillon. This limited edition (100 pieces) is available in a 42mm
platinum case.
The Astrocalendaire’s movement avoids this troublesome
issue by using a gear train-based calendar system instead of
one that relies on springs and levers. This allows the watch to be
adjusted at any time — forward or backward — using the crown
instead of the tiny corrector buttons on most perpetuals. This
particular feature will come as great relief to anyone who’s ever
accidentally gone past the date when adjusting their perpetual.
When that happens, the best way to get your watch back on
track is to let it wind down so the actual date can catch up to the
date on your watch.
Presented in a 45mm platinum case, the Rotonde de Cartier
Astrocalendaire will be offered in a limited series of 100 numbered pieces.
The white gold case of the Tank Louis
Cartier Sapphire Skeleton forms a
rectangular frame (30 x 39.2mm)
around the minimalist movement.
The Roman numeral-shaped movement is black with gold edges that
match the Tank MC Two-Tone Skeleton’s rose gold case (34.5 x 43.8mm).
The titanium case (38.7 x 47.4mm)
is coated with black ADLC, giving
the Santos-Dumont Skeleton
Carbon a bold, modern look.
DECORATIVE ARTS
Skeleton movements are the horological equivalent of a fine
minimalist sculpture where all the superfluous elements have
been removed to reveal the artwork’s essential nature. Cartier’s adept artisans excel at carving the metal plates and bridges of a watch movement into dynamic forms that double as the
timepiece’s aesthetic and structural foundation.
The Tank Louis Cartier Sapphire Skeleton provides a
vivid example of the maison’s deft mastery of this rare art
form. The angles of the white gold case offer a geometric
counterpoint to the circular bridge and round components
contained within. To achieve this impossibly airy abstract
design, Cartier uses a plate made from transparent sapphire crystal to give the movement additional strength. Using clear material as a structural element is nothing new for
the brand. In fact, Louis Cartier used transparent discs to
create the original mystery clock more than 100 years ago.
The Tank MC Two-Tone Skeleton adopts an angular
theme for its sculpted movement. The firm’s familiar Roman
numerals are rendered in black with a brushed finish, which
is balanced by the polished rose gold edges that outline the
display. The subtle addition makes the whole design pop visually and also complements the shapely proportions of the
Tank MC case.
In contrast, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Carbon
radiates a decidedly more technical style than either of the
aforementioned timepieces. Inspired by a watch Cartier
made in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the square
case is crafted from titanium and coated with black ADLC, a
material that is virtually impervious to scratches. Crafted
entirely by Cartier, the movement’s skeletonized bridges
form Roman numerals that have been rhodium plated to
project a refined, anthracite sheen.
31
CARTIER
SIZABLE ACHIEVEMENTS
This year Cartier expanded its offerings in the round Rotonde de
Cartier case with the Small Complications collection, a savvy new line
that focuses on functionality.
The first is the Rotonde de
Cartier Second Time Zone. It
comes with a classic silvered guilloché dial in a 42mm case and is
available in either rose gold or
stainless steel. The brand will also
offer a limited edition version (200
pieces) in a white gold case paired
with a dapper blue dial.
Produced by Cartier, the watch’s
automatic movement includes a
novel interpretation of the second
time zone function. Rather than use
a traditional round display or a
GMT hand, designers instead chose
a 12-hour retrograde-style display.
The sun or moon depicted in the
window at 3 o’clock ensures that
the wearer knows if it’s a.m. or p.m.
in the second time zone. Set with a
blue cabochon, the crown is also a
pusher that advances the retrograde hand.
The other model included in the
new Small Complications collection
is the Rotonde de Cartier Power
Reserve. It too comes with a silvered guilloché dial, but in a slightly
smaller case (40mm) that’s also
available in either rose gold or steel.
Additionally, a white gold version
with an elegant gray guilloché dial
will be produced in a limited run of
200 pieces.
The watch is equipped with a
manually wound movement that’s
finished exquisitely with traditional decorative techniques indicative
of fine Swiss watchmaking. In terms
of function, the watch includes a
date aperture near the top of the
dial and a réserve de marche gauge
near that bottom that indicates the
status of the 40-hour power reserve.
32
Left: This white gold
Rotonde de Cartier Power
Reserve is a limited edition
of 200 pieces.
Above & left: A retrograde-style display is
employed for the Rotonde
de Cartier Second Time
Zone’s signature function.
The white dial is offered
in either a steel (shown)
or rose gold case. The
white gold version with
a blue dial is a limited
edition of 200 pieces.
The Calibre de Cartier Diver combines the
safety features of a true dive watch with
the style you expect from Cartier. The
42mm case comes in steel, rose gold, or
a version that combines both metals.
UNDERWATER OVERACHIEVER
Swimming against a strong tide of expectation, Cartier defied conventional wisdom this year and conquered a new
frontier with its first dive watch. The Calibre de Cartier
Diver combines style with safety in a rugged timepiece that
epitomizes amphibious chic.
Make no mistake, this watch was designed to perform
at a high level in an extremely harsh environment. Water
resistant to 300 meters, the Diver meets or exceeds the strict
international standards required for all dive watches. The
ADLC-coated bezel used to measure your dive time only
turns in one direction, making it impossible to overestimate
how much air is left in your oxygen tanks. And when the
bezel turns, it clicks loud enough that you can hear it underwater to ensure you know it’s moving.
Another important safety feature is the luminous material
applied to the bezel and hour markers, which ensures that the
watch is legible even in the darkest waters. For added protection, the small seconds display is luminous as well, which allows a diver to quickly see if the watch is running. In fact, one
of the coolest things about this watch can only be seen in the
dark. With the lights out, the large Roman XII glows brightly,
a clear reminder that the watch on your wrist is a Cartier.
Thankfully, function doesn’t trump form in the Calibre
de Cartier Diver. The 42mm case is just 11mm thick, which
is unusually svelte for a true dive watch and certainly
enhances its wearability on land.
Cartier offers three versions: A dressy rose gold model,
a sporty stainless steel edition and a stylish hybrid that
mixes steel with rose gold highlights. Each one comes on a
hypoallergenic, black rubber strap that is lightweight and
comfortable. In addition, Cartier also offers bracelets that
match the steel and bi-color models.
33
CARTIER
REFINED BRILLIANCE
Cartier embodies the notion that fashion fades, but style
lives on forever with jewelry and watch creations that
have defined timeless elegance for more than 150 years.
The new Ballon Blanc de Cartier collection takes
its inspiration from the same spirit of sophisticated
style by combining the brand’s recognizable design
codes in a watch that dazzles with a spectacular bracelet that features more than 9 carats of bezel-set
diamonds.
Available in either white or rose gold, the 30mm
pebble-shaped case is reminiscent of the Ballon Bleu.
Unlike its cousin, however, the Ballon Blanc de Cartier
uses a diamond to decorate the crown, which has been
shifted to the 4 o’clock position. Even more diamonds
cover the bezel, which circles the mother-of-pearl flinqué
dial and blued-steel sword-shaped hands.
Also available in rose gold, the Ballon Blanc de Cartier
has glamour to spare thanks to an incredible bracelet
that boasts a gleaming constellation of bezel-set
diamonds.
The firm expands its wildly popular
Ballon Bleu de Cartier collection this year
with two gem-set, bi-color models that put a
fresh spin on this modern-day classic. Both
versions accentuate the beautiful juxtaposition created by pairing warm rose gold with
cool stainless steel.
The first is presented in a 36mm case
and is powered by an automatic movement.
Brilliant-cut diamonds cover the rose gold
bezel and are used as hour markers on the
guilloché dial. A mix of polished and satin
finishes gives the gold and steel bracelet a
dynamic look. The next model is similar, but
with a few key distinctions. Its case is smaller at 33mm and comes on a steel bracelet.
Another difference is the dial, which uses
Roman numerals to indicate the hours.
Automatic-winding movements power both of
these steel and rose gold Ballon Bleu de Cartiers.
34
Newly redesigned, Cartier’s famed Tortue case is available in
white or rose gold and can be set with diamonds. The flexible
bracelet is composed of flat links that glow with a satin finish.
ART FORM
Among the maison’s most significant contributions to watchmaking has been its
successful expansion of the idiom’s visual
vocabulary with beautiful shapes. From
the angular Tank and oval Baignoire to the
surrealistic Crash, the brand has never
shied away from redefining the idea of
what a watch can look like.
One shape in particular has an especially rich history. Round cases were the
norm in 1912 when Louis Cartier unveiled
the Tortue, a tortoise shell-inspired design that helped set watches free from the
confining circular form. Cartier revisits
that trailblazing shape this year with a
newly redesigned Tortue. The curvilinear
outline remains, but the soft, rounded profile of the past has been replaced with a
crisp edge that projects a more contemporary character.
The medium-sized Tortue case (39 x
31mm) is offered in either white or rose
gold, and its bezel can be set with brilliant-cut diamonds (1.5 carats). Light
dances on the dial’s undulating waves of
fine guilloché, which is bound at the edge
by Roman numerals. The brand’s signature style informs the overall look, including the gorgeous bracelet. Exquisite finishing ensures its flat links feel soft
against the skin as they wrap the wrist in
a precious-metal embrace. ¨
35
CHOPARD
The Grand Prix de Monaco Historique
Automatic (above) and Chronograph
models both feature sporty yellow accents,
legible dials and chronometer-certified
mechanical movements.
High-Octane
HOROLOGY
Whether on the red carpet
in Cannes or trackside in
Monte Carlo, a thread of
thoughtful elegance
connects Chopard’s
collections.
F
BY JONATHAN BUES
or 12 years, Chopard has been the official timekeeper of the Grand Prix de
Monaco Historique (G.P.M.H.), a series of vintage car races held on the famed
road course of Monte Carlo, known for its hairpin turns and technically demanding layout. As spectators look on from mega-yachts serving as makeshift grandstands, the crème de la crème of vintage racecars duel it out against the
backdrop of palm trees, the Hotel de Paris, and the Monte Carlo Casino. It’s as grand
an amalgam of sport and luxury as one is likely to encounter; and it shares quite a bit
in common with Chopard, a company known as much for red carpet jewelry as for
in-house mechanical watchmaking and sporty men’s timepieces.
MODERN VINTAGE
Over the course of its partnership with the G.P.M.H., Chopard has created a single
limited-edition chronograph for each grand prix. Starting with this year’s event, however, the Swiss watchmaker has upped the ante and presented a full collection of
sporty driving watches inspired by the classic single-seat racecars. Each watch
shares the same snailed gray dials, yellow racing ring and casebacks stamped with
the logo of the Automobile Club of Monaco.
The new G.P.M.H. Automatic is sized and built for performance
and legibility. Prominent numerals at 12 and 6 anchor the
display, while the seconds hand, inner flange, and
marks on the bezel use bright yellow accents to enable quick reading of the time at a glance. At
44.5mm in diameter and nearly 14mm
thick, the G.P.M.H. Automatic benefits from a case made of lightweight titanium, with only
a few essential case
components machined
from stainless steel.
CHOPARD
Inside the watch beats a COSC-certified automatic movement with 46 hours of power reserve. The G.P.M.H. Automatic comes on either a black barenia calfskin strap with yellow stitching or an integrated steel and titanium bracelet.
No collection of auto-inspired watches is complete
without a chronograph. The complication is as essential to
a driver’s kit as his helmet and racing suit. But not just any
chronograph will suffice in the heat of competition. That’s
why Chopard’s new G.P.M.H. Chronograph sports a large,
legible design, bright yellow hands for the chronograph sec-
onds and totalizers and, perhaps most crucially, oversized
pushers that can be quickly activated on the fly without distracting the driver from the action on the track. Add to these
design attributes an oversized titanium case and a tachymeter bezel, and one has a sport watch worthy of any driver’s
wrist. Like the G.P.M.H. Automatic, this chronograph version has been designed with vintage racecars in mind. But
don’t worry, its modern “engine” is a tried and true Swissmade automatic beating at 28,800 bph, certified by COSC for
accuracy.
GOLD STANDARD
In 1996, Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele reasoned that if his family-owned company was to be taken
seriously in the arena of fine watchmaking, it had to show
the industry and collectors that it could manufacture mechanical movements in-house. To that end, Scheufele oversaw the establishment of the Louis-Ulysse Chopard collection, a fine watchmaking range designed to return Chopard
to its roots as a maker of haute horlogerie timepieces. Since
then L.U.C, the name by which collectors know it, has helped
make Chopard a leading manufacturer of high-end complicated watches like the L.U.C Lunar Big Date.
Encompassing two of the most traditional, and indeed
romantic horological complications, the L.U.C Lunar Big
Date features a movement made entirely in-house at
Chopard’s manufacture in Fleurier, Switzerland. That automatic movement comes housed in a rose gold case made
from metals forged at Chopard’s own Geneva-based gold
foundry. As one of just a handful of watch brands with this
capability, Chopard keeps its world-famous proprietary
rose gold alloy a closely guarded trade secret.
But the feature of this timepiece that most collectors
will instantly look to is its moon-phase indicator, a highly
complex engineering feat that relies on a 135–toothed wheel
to mirror the actual phases of the moon to an accuracy of
just one day’s deviation every 122 years. And unlike the vast
majority of moon-phase indicators, Chopard’s simultaneously depicts the state of the moon in both the Northern and
Southern hemispheres — the former decorated with the Big
Dipper constellation and the latter with the Southern Cross.
The rose gold L.U.C Lunar Big Date indicates the moon phase
for both the Northern and Southern hemispheres.
38
Left & below: These Happy Sport models combine
automatic movements with the collection’s
instantly recognizable floating diamonds.
Below: This rose gold Imperiale underscores Chopard’s watchmaking savoir-faire
with a mechanical chronograph movement
and a diamond bezel.
SPARKLING PERSONALITIES
While racing-inspired watches and the
haute horlogerie timepieces of the L.U.C
collection help form the masculine
side of the Chopard coin, Karl-Friedrich’s sister Caroline Scheufele directs
the development of the company’s jewelry and ladies’ timepieces. One of the
real icons to have resulted from her
work is the Happy Sport collection,
which celebrated 20 years in 2013.
Equal parts timepiece and jewelry,
the Happy Sport is known for incorporating loose, unset diamonds into its
design in a way that no one had ever
seen before. Floating beneath the
watch’s crystal, these diamonds shift
when the wearer moves her wrist, and
yet they do not interfere with the hour
or minute hands. It’s whimsical, fun
and, yes, happy!
The recently launched Happy Sport
Medium Automatic range incorporates Caroline Scheufele’s iconic
design with mechanical watchmaking,
something that a growing number of
women appreciate. Now, in addition to
viewing the floating diamonds on the
dial side, the wearer can also see the
complex mechanism through the sapphire caseback. A variety of different
versions of this collection are available. Here, we have a solid rose gold
version with a diamond-set bezel
alongside an even sportier two-tone
model. In the latter version, the case is
stainless steel and the bezel is crafted
from rose gold. The same pattern is repeated on its bracelet, whose inner
gold links and outer steel links combine to luxurious and sporty effect.
Another Chopard collection created with feminine watch wearers in
mind is the Imperiale, a dressy range
of models whose arabesque motif has
been influenced by the traditional embroideries that once graced imperial
gowns. The elegant model shown combines the warmth of rose gold, with
a luxurious helping of diamonds on
its bezel. Intended for elegant and
discerning ladies, the movement
powering the watch is a mechanical
chronograph.
In today’s watch industry, so dominated by just a few major groups,
Chopard stands out not just for its enduring independence, but also because a single family continues to
shape its identity. ¨
39
DE BETHUNE
Kinetic
ART
“A
BY SCOTT HICKEY
With its refined approach to watchmaking, De Bethune
shows it has an inventor’s imagination and a poet’s heart.
pare-chute shock absorption system and self-regulating
lot of companies make watches, but only a few
twin winding barrels. “It’s really a snapshot of all our innoof those are truly creating art. De Bethune is
vations in one watch,” says De Bethune CEO Pierre Jacques.
one,” proclaims David Zanetta, who founded the
At the center of it all is
company with
another brand specialty: an
master watchmaker Denis
exceptionally precise, spherFlageollet in 2002.
ical moon phase indicator.
Audacious? Perhaps,
Composed of palladium and
but it’s difficult to argue the
blued steel halves, it’s
point after seeing the DB28
surrounded by a bluedDigitale in person and obtitanium ring that twinkles
serving its rare mix of digiwith white-gold stars, a retal and analog displays in
curring design motif in the
action.
De Bethune collection. The
Remarkably, the watch
absence of hour markers or
has no moving hands. Ina chapter ring on the dial
stead, it indicates the time
creates an amazing open
with a rotating minute ring
space that’s taken over by
and a jumping hour display.
silver-toned guilloché that
Introduced in the 18th cenforms a mesmerizing barleytury, the jump hour complicorn pattern. The brand’s
cation shows the hour
name — typically tucked
numerically by means of a
away on the back or the
rotating disc that snaps
A sapphire crystal on the back of the DB28 Digitale
buckle — makes a rare apforward every 60 minutes.
reveals De Bethune’s hand-wound movement, which
pearance on the dial, like an
A great deal of research
holds five days of reserve power.
artist signing a masterpiece.
and development was needed to ensure that both of
COME THROUGH IN THE CLUTCH
these moving displays operate smoothly and precisely, ZaCollectors may recall the MaxiChrono that De Bethune
netta says. This led the Swiss watchmaker to create the sointroduced eight years ago. The watch was an exceedingly
phisticated mechanism at the heart of the DB28 Digitale,
rare example of a monopusher chronograph with five hands
which uses micro-ball bearings to advance both the hours
mounted on the same axis. That trait remains for its return
and minutes. De Bethune incorporates several of its patentthis year, however, the chronograph movement inside has
ed mechanical innovations to this ingenious system, includbeen completely re-imagined.
ing a balance wheel made of silicon and white gold, a triple
40
When the DB28 Digitale’s minute
ring completes its rotation, the
nearby digital hour display
advances in the blink of an eye.
41
DE BETHUNE
The DB28 MaxiChrono features a new clutch system
created by the brand. The design actually includes a separate
clutch for each of the three chronograph counters, which
allows them to operate semi-autonomously. This patented
system incorporates three column wheels and uses a combination of vertical and horizontal clutches. The arrangement
not only improves the chronograph’s performance, but it also
reduces friction and wear to the movement. Due to the complex nature of the DB28 MaxiChrono’s movement, De Bethune
will limit production to 20 pieces a year.
While the enhancements inside the 45mm rose gold
case improve the experience of using the chronograph, the
aesthetic outside is equally impressive. The multi-dimensional silver-toned dial includes contemporary-style
numerals for the main time display and traditional numerals for the chronograph registers. That juxtaposition of the
present and past is a constant refrain that echoes throughout the entire De Bethune collection. “Our ideal is a balance
between modern innovation and traditional watchmaking
of the 18th century. Mastering both opens the way for us to
take our watches in any direction,” Jacques says.
The monopusher crown at the top of the 45mm rose gold
case controls the DB28 MaxiChrono’s highly advanced
chronograph movement.
COOL SHADES
The DB28 Dark Shadows’ movement is exposed to
showcase the dazzling light show created by its mix of
matte and polished finishes.
42
De Bethune’s DB28 was named watch of the year in 2011 by
the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, which awarded the
timepiece its coveted Aiguille d’Or (Golden Hand). This year,
the futuristic design returns as the DB28 Dark Shadows, a
limited edition of 50 pieces.
To give the watch its distinctive monochromatic look,
De Bethune uses oxidized zirconium, a metal that is both
lightweight and durable. A satin finish is applied to the
42.6mm case, as well as the patented floating lugs, which
are hinged in the middle to create a custom fit on the wrist.
The hour ring is made from mirror-polished zirconium,
which is set with 11 spherical hour markers. They circle the
exposed movement, which incorporates several of the
brand’s trademark innovations, including a balance wheel
made with silicon and palladium. The round opening at the
bottom of the hour ring highlights a special version of
De Bethune’s spherical moon phase display that’s made of
oxidized zirconium and polished platinum halves.
MODERN CLASSIC
Located in the village of La Chaux L’Auberson, De Bethune’s
workshop produces the DB25 QP, one of the watch industry’s most exquisitely crafted and technically advanced perpetual calendars. Its automatic movement combines the
requisite calendar indications (day, date, month and leap
year) with the brand’s signature spherical moon phase indicator, which rotates in a circle of mirror-polished blued
steel set with yellow gold stars.
This version of the DB25 QP includes a rose gold dial
decorated with 12 sections of guilloché that spread out like
waves from the center of the dial. Adding to the watch’s dynamic look, raised circles are used for the chapter ring and
date indicator, while a third circle surrounds the moon
phase display.
A clear caseback attached to the 44mm platinum case
provides a detailed view of the movement’s titanium and
platinum balance wheel, as well as the self-regulating twin
barrels, which store five days of reserve power.
De Bethune marries its sophisticated perpetual calendar
movement with the refined style of a rose gold guilloché
dial in the DB25 QP.
AFTER HOURS STYLE
For the DB25 Midnight Blue, white enamel provides a
radiant background for the chapter ring, which circles
the blued-titanium center.
The DB25 Midnight Blue offers a pure expression of classical horology as viewed through De Bethune’s modern lens.
Covered with lustrous white enamel, the chapter ring rises
up around the mirror-polished disc of blued titanium at the
center. The dial’s cool minimalism is warmed by the glow of
the rose gold hands and matching 44mm case. Inside, the
DB25 Midnight Blue includes an automatic movement that
is made exclusively by De Bethune and features a six-day
power reserve.
“For us, watchmaking is about tradition, but we have no
interest in repeating what was done in the past. There must
also be innovation and artistry. Only when you achieve a
balance between those three worlds, can you create the perfect watch,” Jacques says.
With its growing collection, De Bethune builds on that
solid foundation. ¨
43
COVER STORY
Towering
PRESENCE
BY RACHEL YOUNG
A gift from Queen Victoria of England to America,
this ornate bronze clock tower made its debut in
1893 at the Chicago World’s Fair. Today, it is one
of the most recognizable clocks in New York City.
O
n a recent Saturday evening, a continuous stream of people strolled
past the bronze and mahogany clock
tower housed in the romantically lit
lobby of the Waldorf-Astoria New York Hotel
on Park Avenue.
Most visitors kept walking, but some
paused to read the inscription on the plaque
mounted on the magnificent nine-foot tall
structure’s octagonal base. Others retrieved
smart phones from their pockets and asked
strangers to snap a quick photo of them standing beside it.
Guests of the luxury hotel have good reason to admire the intricately detailed piece,
which weighs two tons and dominates a large
space between Peacock Alley Restaurant and
the first floor’s main reception area.
44
The Waldorf-Astoria Hotel’s
clock tower features bronze
bas-relief busts of Queen
Victoria (above), Benjamin
Franklin and six American
presidents.
All photographs by David Katz
Archival photograph courtesy of the Waldorf Astoria New York. Lincoln photograph by David Katz
COVER STORY
Several small gilded silver figurines, visible in this photo taken at the
1893 Chicago World’s Fair, once adorned the clock tower just above
its presidential busts. They were misplaced in 1929.
For starters, the clock tower is rich with history: Queen
Victoria of England commissioned the Goldsmith Company of
London to construct it in the late 19th century. “It was a gift from
her to us to show diplomatic relations and good will,” explains
Erin Allsop, archivist at the Waldorf-Astoria.
To underscore the special ties shared by both nations, the
clock tower is decorated with bronze bas-relief busts of the
Queen and six American presidents: George Washington,
Andrew Jackson, William Henry Harrison, Abraham Lincoln,
Ulysses S. Grant and Grover Cleveland. Benjamin Franklin also
joins their esteemed ranks and, like the other prestigious
figures, is encircled by sculpted filigree.
Bronze plaques depicting athletic or competitive scenes
complement the busts and include a pack of dogs chasing a rabbit, two men jumping over hurdles and a horse-drawn carriage
race. “These scenes were meant to highlight the similarities between England and the United States and reconcile past differences,” Allsop says.
46
Abraham Lincoln is among the clock tower’s distinguished
visages.
Photograph by David Katz
WITNESSING HISTORY
The story of the clock tower begins in
1893, when it debuted at the Chicago
World’s Fair. At the time, it was lauded
for its electric movement, a feature that
was especially notable because the
light bulb had been invented only 20
years earlier.
Soon after the fair, American businessman John Jacob Astor IV purchased the clock tower. The exact
amount he paid is unknown, but according to a 1903 brochure in the hotel’s archive, the tower was valued at
more than £25,000 — equivalent to
more than a million dollars today.
Astor would go on to build the
Astoria Hotel in 1897 at the corner of
Fifth Avenue and 33rd Street. When
completed, an elevated corridor — later
dubbed Peacock Alley — was added to
connect his hotel with the neighboring
Waldorf Hotel, which was built four
years earlier by his cousin, William
Waldorf Astor. The clock tower would
become a focal point in the original
Waldorf-Astoria, where it sat in front
of the Rose Room restaurant.
CHANGING TIMES
The original design of the clock tower
has evolved through the years. The first
modification came soon after Astor
purchased it, when French officials
presented him with a miniature figure
of the Statue of Liberty to place atop
his splendid new timekeeper.
The alteration to her gift did not sit
well with Queen Victoria. Allsop explains, “When she found out about it,
she was very upset and wanted to purchase the clock back from John Jacob
Astor, but he refused.”
Another change to the design was
accidental. Originally, several small
gilded silver figurines adorned the
structure just above the presidential
busts. Each one represented a different
sport and revolved when the clock
chimed. Sadly, the figures have been
lost.
Athletic scenes were depicted beneath the clock tower’s busts to highlight the
similarities between England and the United States.
It’s unclear, however, exactly when
they went missing. In what is possibly
their last recorded appearance, the
figures can be seen in an archival photo taken in the 1920s. Allsop says it’s
likely that they were misplaced when
the clock tower went into storage in
1929. That was the year the original
Waldorf-Astoria was demolished to
make way for the Empire State Building. A few years later, in 1931, the hotel
reopened at its current location on
Park Avenue.
Thankfully, one of the clock’s most
recognizable features has remained
the same for more than a century:
its sonorous “voice.” Night or day, it
chimes the quarter hours, serenading guests in the lobby with the traditional Westminster progression.
The notes hung in the air as the
Saturday evening crowd dwindled.
The lobby quieted and a housekeeper unobtrusively made her way toward the clock tower. She brushed a
feather duster gently across the
clock tower’s base, taking care not to
scratch the century-old mahogany.
The structure is, after all, a piece of
history. ¨
47
FRANCK MULLER
The world’s largest tourbillon (20mm
across) is the center of attention in
this white gold version of the Giga
Tourbillon. Its escapement includes
a hairspring made exclusively by
Franck Muller.
48
Making a
BOLD MOVE
BY ELISE BRENNER
Known as the “Master of Complications,” Swiss watch brand
Franck Muller puts a distinctive stamp on all its models.
T
he Giga Tourbillon starts with an idea: What if the tourbillon
dominated the dial by virtue of its size, as well as its complexity?
The company then brought it to life with a sleek design that highlights this powerhouse complication. With a diameter of 20mm,
the tourbillon occupies half of the dial, creating a spectacle that
performs its whirling dance for admirers, whether they are viewing
the front or back of the timepiece.
A skeletonized dial and mainplate frame not only the tourbillon, but also the uniquely devised movement. In a departure
from traditional caliber construction, the movement’s bridges
are on the dial side. This disregard for the old rules of
watchmaking also allows Franck Muller to play with the
barrels. Instead of using just one or two barrels, the
iconoclastic brand draws upon no fewer than four
barrels in the Giga Tourbillon, pairing them in series
and assembling them in parallel to ensure both the
power necessary to drive such a large tourbillon, and
the tenacity of a nine-day power reserve. The time left in the
watch’s generous power reserve is read via a discreet indicator
at 12 o’clock.
Franck Muller’s distinctive Curvex-shaped case boasts expansive dimensions: 43.7 by 59.2mm, with a thickness of 14mm. It’s sized
to better accommodate the imposing tourbillon and the four 16.4mm barrels (4mm wider than traditional ones). The white gold case lends an air of
sophistication to a timepiece that brushes aside all preconceived limitations.
ROUND OF APPLAUSE
Franck Muller’s master artisans further explore the beauty of hand-carved
movements with the 7 Days Power Reserve Skeleton, which reinterprets
the classic model in a form that only the most skilled watchmakers have fully
mastered.
The 45mm rose gold version presents the watchmaker’s art through an intricately carved scrim. The delicate design of the dial, though it seems decorative,
is purely functional. Everything not strictly necessary to the watch’s functioning
Presented in rose gold, the 7 Days Power
Reserve Skeleton’s manually wound
movement is carved by hand in a deft
feat of watchmaking artistry.
49
FRANCK MULLER
has been carved away. Behind that supportive framework
beats a movement whose generous seven-day power
reserve gives the watch its name.
Adapted from an earlier version of the caliber, this
reinterpretation embraces the particular needs inherent
to a skeleton movement. The impeccable finishing reflects
true haute horlogerie fashion with hand-chamfered
bridges, côtes de Genève and circular graining. As befits a
legend in the watchmaking world, the brand designs, constructs and decorates this movement in-house.
AS TIME GOES BY
Franck Muller turns its attention to the chronograph function with this elegant Casablanca model. The timepiece
incorporates several elements that are immediately recognizable as belonging to the Swiss watchmaker: stylized Arabic numerals that mark the hours, and the Cintrée Curvex
case, which echoes many other classic Franck Muller pieces.
Housed within the classic Cintrée Curvex case, the Casablanca chronograph marks hours, minutes and seconds
with luminescent hands and distinctive Arabic numerals.
The 7 Days Power Reserve Skeleton comes in either rose
gold or steel, in a round or Cintrée Curvex case (shown).
50
A 30-minute chronograph counter occupies the three
o’clock position, and a central hand measures the chronograph seconds. A discreet indication at six o’clock reveals the
date via an aperture. Luminescent hands limned in blue add a
pleasing note of color contrast to the Casablanca’s dial. Measuring 39.6 by 55.4mm, with a thickness of 11.9mm, the case
includes a pusher at two o’clock to start and stop the chronograph, as well as a pusher at four o’clock that resets the
counter to zero. The self-winding movement boasts precision
to one-eighth of a second.
With an air of effortless masculinity, the Casablanca
evokes the cinematic classic of the same name, and it is easy
to imagine Humphrey Bogart’s Rick wearing this chronograph
as he supports the French Resistance.
REAL WOMEN HAVE CURVEX
The watchmaker uses the same signifiers from the Casablanca — the case and distinctive numerals — for the
Ladies Cintrée Curvex. However, where they appeared
masculine on the chronograph, this jewelry watch reinterprets them with an undeniably feminine slant.
Around the perimeter of the dial, 179 diamonds
glitter, imbuing the white gold case with a joyful sense of
luxury to match its elegant proportions: 29 by 39mm,
and 10mm thick. The Cintrée Curvex case is crafted in a
convex shape to better conform to the contours of the
wrist, an ergonomic design that requires a great deal of
gem-setting skill to decorate its flowing lines with precious gems. An offbeat, geometrically inspired bracelet
boasts links in both rectangular and rhomboid shapes.
Each small segment gleams with the matchless sparkle of
multiple diamonds, 100 in all.
Diamonds
totaling 2.70
carats gleam
from the bezel
and bracelet
of this Cintrée
Curvex set in
white gold.
MERRY-GO-ROUND
The rose gold
Infinity Ronde
delivers volume
and intrigue
with its tapered
Roman numerals,
lacquered dial
and diamondset case.
A traditional 38mm round case gets the Franck
Muller treatment and emerges, transformed, as
the Infinity Ronde. Crafted in rose gold, the case
is set with 136 diamonds bearing a total weight of
1.96 carats. Even the lugs attaching the case to
the red alligator leather strap are diamond-set, for
limitless luxury. The Swiss watchmaker’s sense of
style pervades a relatively restrained dial. Black
Roman numerals radiate from the center, their
tapered ends conveying a sense of movement and
excitement.
Using all the tools at the watchmaker’s disposal, from inventive twists on classic complications to virtuoso displays of craftsmanship, and
the sparkling allure of diamonds, Franck Muller
creates timepieces to thrill the most demanding
watch lovers. ¨
51
GIRARD-PERREGAUX
Available in white or rose gold,
the Constant Escapement L.M.
ensures consistent timekeeping
with its groundbreaking
constant-force mechanism.
52
Dreams in
MOTION
S
ince its recent acquisition by Kering,
Girard-Perregaux has embarked on a
campaign to refine its collection and
raise awareness of its strong technical capabilities, while simultaneously
pushing its watchmaking achievements
higher.
In just a short time, these measures have already borne impressive
results, including the grand prize in
haute horlogerie’s most prestigious
awards. In 2013, Girard-Perregaux
released what was, in the opinion
of the Geneva Grand Prix committee, the most impressive timepiece
of the year — the Constant
Escapement L.M.
In mechanical wristwatches,
there exists a phenomenon by which
the accuracy of a watch diminishes as its
power reserve nears its end. While conventional thinking says that a watch
should get slower as its mainspring winds
down, the opposite is actually the case. As
its power diminishes, so does its amplitude,
causing the watch to grow slightly faster until
the moment it ticks its last tock.
Girard-Perregaux’s ingenious solution in its
prize-winning watch is an escapement with a
silicon blade six times thinner than a human
hair. Before an impulse of power can travel from
the barrel to the balance wheel, this silicon blade needs to
bend. When the threshold of power required to bend the
blade is no longer available, the watch simply stops, alerting the wearer to rewind his watch for an additional six
BY JONATHAN BUES
Girard-Perregaux achieves what collectors
around the world have long dreamed about:
a bona fide constant force escapement.
days of precise and — more to the point —
consistent timekeeping. New for 2014, the Constant Escapement L.M. is presented in a
48mm rose gold case, which joins the
original white gold model.
MAKING NEW CONNECTIONS
Every successful watchmaker must
have a timepiece that is so unique
and recognizable that it can be
spotted from across the room.
This timepiece, which occasionally becomes a legitimate
design icon, is the face of the
brand. At Girard-Perregaux,
this watch is the tourbillon with
three bridges.
Created nearly 150 years ago,
this bold and architectural watch design was recently reinterpreted for a
new generation of collectors. Offered in a
rose gold case, the Neo-Tourbillon with
Three Bridges represents a radically different interpretation of its namesake components, which have traditionally been crafted
from gold. To enhance performance and reduce
weight, the bridges — which reinforce the
tourbillon carriage, motion works and barrel
— are made from sandblasted, skeletonized
titanium that has been treated with black PVD.
For this radical re-imagining of its iconic three-bridge
design, the brand uses skeletonized titanium with a PVD
coating for the Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges.
53
GIRARD-PERREGAUX
The firm
is recognized
for its innovative
tourbillons like the
Tri-Axial Tourbillon,
where the escapement
rotates along three
separate axes.
54
This new
addition to
the Traveller
collection combines
a useful GMT function
and a gorgeous moon
phase display in a
comfortable rose
gold case.
SENSE OF DIRECTION
TWO PLACES, ONE DIAL
The tourbillon is a very specialized type of escapement devised to mitigate the effects of gravity on the accuracy of a mechanical watch.
Invented in the early 19th century, this difficult-to-produce mechanism figured among the cutting-edge technology of its day.
Modern watchmakers have discovered, however, that this device is
less effective in wristwatches because they are constantly in motion
on our wrists, unlike pocket watches that tend to remain in one position while resting in the pocket. The logical adaptation of the tourbillon for the wristwatch therefore is a tourbillon with multiple axes.
In the case of Girard-Perregaux’s new Tri-Axial Tourbillon, an
incredibly complex mechanism made with 140 components, the position of the escapement rotates along three separate axes. The first rotates once per minute, the second every 30 seconds, and the third every
two minutes. In this way, the Tri-Axial Tourbillon cancels for positional errors at virtually every angle.
The mathematical complexity involved in making such a timepiece
cannot be overstated. Modern computers and manufacturing capabilities combine with the supreme dexterity of master watchmakers to
make a traditional timepiece that could only have been crafted in the
21st century.
For years, watches for traveling have featured
prominently among Girard-Perregaux’s core collection in the form of a popular range of GMT and
world-time models. Last year, Girard-Perregaux
streamlined these models into a single collection
called Traveller.
Besides their rather obvious utility for collectors who find themselves crossing time zones
or conducting business in several places, the
Traveller watches have a refined and ergonomically improved case design. They also boast additional complications and displays, such as those
found on this rose gold version of the Traveller
Large Date Moon Phase GMT.
In addition to the wearer’s home time, the
local time in a different time zone can be adjusted by one-hour increments via a simple pusher at
4 o’clock. This is a very useful feature for anyone
who needs to know the time in two time zones at
a glance.
TRIPLE THREAT
Girard-Perregaux’s technical capabilities run the gamut
from straightforward chronographs to complex tourbillons.
This remarkable model from the 1966 collection brilliantly
illustrates the firm’s range by combining three advanced
functions: minute repeater, annual calendar and equation of
time.
Within the cozy confines of its conservatively sized
42mm case, the 1966 Minute Repeater, Annual Calendar
and Equation of Time packs an incredible level of engineering prowess. Its minute repeater — which is among the
most complicated mechanisms in horology — chimes the
time audibly on demand. Its annual calendar affords the
wearer the convenience of changing the date manually once
a year.
The equation of time alone would make this timepiece
noteworthy. This esoteric astronomical complication displays the difference between the mean solar time, which
does not vary, and the true solar time, which fluctuates due
to the Earth’s elliptical orbit and tilted axis. Throughout the
year, the length of the true solar day can be about 15 minutes longer or shorter than 24 hours. An arc-shaped gauge
on the dial indicates this discrepancy.
Girard-Perregaux
executes some of the
most difficult-to-make
mechanisms within
the confines of a single
watch with the
1966 Minute Repeater,
Annual Calendar and
Equation of Time.
LOOKING GOOD
Beautiful artistry
and engineering
prowess compete
for attention in
this stainless steel
Cat’s Eye Bloom
with diamond bezel.
Girard-Perregaux’s long tradition of crafting mechanical
timepieces for women continues with its latest addition to
the Cat’s Eye collection, a chic line that has become a reference for sophisticated feminine design and serious watchmaking.
The new Cat’s Eye Bloom features a stainless steel
case set with 64 brilliant-cut diamonds. Its dial is an exercise in artistic femininity. A beautiful lace overlay is applied
to white mother-of-pearl to dazzling effect. In addition to
this repeating lattice motif, each dial is further enhanced
with striking peony flower designs. The peony is a deeply
felt cultural reference virtually everywhere in the world.
The flower is believed to be the first domesticated by man,
originally in China, and then cultivated in Europe during
the Middle Ages by Benedictine monks.
As a high-end Swiss manufacture specializing in complicated timepieces, the majority of Girard-Perregaux’s
creations are destined for masculine wrists. Still, the undeniable appeal of tradition, craftsmanship and beauty call
out to elegant ladies with the Cat’s Eye collection. ¨
55
GREUBEL FORSEY
World of
DIFFERENCE
BY SCOTT HICKEY
Greubel Forsey’s world of horology revolved around
the tourbillon until 2011, when the company took
two different complications out for a spin.
T
he coveted brand broke new ground with its GMT, an exceptionally original interpretation of the traveler’s timepiece that includes a second-time zone display and rotating globe on the front, plus a 24-time zone display on the
back. This year, the La Chaux-de-Fonds-based brand introduced a
platinum version with contrasting black movement and dial.
Stephen Forsey, who launched the company with Robert
Greubel 10 years ago, says the design represents a natural progression in their ongoing watchmaking collaboration.
“Our first three tourbillon inventions are the foundation of
the collection, but we felt it was important to show enthusiasts
that Greubel Forsey is not just exclusively about tourbillons.
The GMT was a way to apply our thought process to a different subject,” he explains.
As you would expect from the brand that won the International Chronometry Competition in 2011, precision is a
primary focus of the GMT, and the watch’s inclined tourbillon doesn’t disappoint. What may surprise some,
however, is the equally obsessive attention paid to the
movement’s hand finishing.
Look no further than the watch’s signature rotating,
three-dimensional globe. Forsey says it took more than a year to
perfect the 13mm titanium sphere that serves as a 24-hour time
zone display. “The machinist thought it would take three months to
make. A year later, he was ready to throw us out of his shop,” he recalls
and laughs. “The versions he made were fine, but we knew it could be better.
So we kept at it, and after 18 months we finally had what we’d originally envisioned.”
Forsey adds: “What makes it difficult to reach this very high level — and it’s true
for many of our watches — is that we’re on the very edge of what’s possible with the
current technology.”
The back of the GMT includes a world-time display. Its outer ring is used most of the year,
except during daylight savings time, when the inner ring is used.
56
Caption text goes here.
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Now offered in aCaption
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text
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case, the GMT is Caption
extremely
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textmovement.
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GREUBEL FORSEY
In the
Double
Tourbillon
30º Technique
Bi-Color, a crystal
cross at the bottom
of the exposed movement
tracks the progress of the
second tourbillon cage’s
four-minute rotation.
LOOKING SHARP
That unyielding desire to push forward has propelled the
brand to the forefront of high horology in just 10 years and
earned it a long list of distinguished awards, including the
Gaïa Prize. Considered one of the highest accolades a watchmaker can receive, the honor was bestowed upon Robert
and Stephen in 2009 by the Musée International d’Horlogerie
in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
In 2011 the company’s Double Tourbillon 30º Technique
took the top prize for precision and timekeeping at the most
recent International Chronometry Competition. The mechanism achieves an exceptional level of precision by combining two tourbillons cages. The first completes a rotation every four minutes, while the second — inclined at a 30-degree
angle — turns once a minute.
This year, Greubel Forsey introduced a new incarnation
of that award-winning timepiece called the Double Tourbillon 30º Technique Bi-Color. Its two-tone color scheme
includes black ADLC-treated plates inscribed with the company’s watchmaking philosophy attached to the side of the
case, which is available in either 5N red gold or platinum.
Production of each version is limited to 22 pieces.
Look closely at the black-chrome treated plates and bridges exposed by the open architecture and one will notice sharp
internal angles and crisp bevels that can only be achieved by
58
hand-working the metal. “Even today, you can’t imitate that
with a machine,” Forsey explains. “These are part of the brand’s
design code, one that shows collectors very clearly that we
value the beauty of hand finishing.”
But why go to all this trouble? “Because we can,” Forsey
answers and laughs. “But also because these timepieces represent an ideal for Robert and myself. We set out to explore the
mechanism technically, yes, but also to create something that’s
reflective of watchmaking’s artisan heritage.”
DARK ARTS
Greubel Forsey’s patented 30-degree double tourbillon system can also be found in the brand’s signature Asymétrique
case. Introduced last year in white gold, this new 5N red
gold version of the Double Tourbillon Asymétrique shares
the same redesigned movement.
When it appears in other models, the double tourbillon
is positioned at 6 o’clock. But in the asymmetrical case, it’s
been shifted to the bump at 8 o’clock so it can be viewed
from the side through a sapphire crystal window. To make
this mechanical migration possible, the movement was
completely restructured. Here, the four-minute exterior
tourbillon — which originally appeared below — has been
flipped to reveal the 60-second interior tourbillon.
Limited to
just 11 pieces,
this 5N red gold
edition of the
Double Tourbillon
Asymétrique includes
an inverted version of
the company’s patented
double tourbillon.
Not just a showcase for technical prowess, the tourbillon
also highlights one of the company’s signature finishes:
black-mirror polishing. Applied to every steel tourbillon bridge
in the collection, the decoration creates a distinctive look.
Forsey explains: “When a surface is mottled, it’s shiny
because it reflects light from many different angles. With
black-mirror polishing, the surface is polished so smoothly
that you only get a reflection in direct light. As soon as you
incline the surface a little, there’s no longer enough light to
make the metal shine and it turns black. You don’t see it that
often in watchmaking because it’s so time consuming and
difficult to execute properly.”
ECONOMIC POWER
In art, be it writing, music or watchmaking, statements that
resonate the deepest are often the most concise. But achieving that mystical balance between simplicity and significance is something an artist can spend a lifetime chasing.
Greubel Forsey taps into that powerful concept with its
Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain, a tasteful demonstration of what is possible through economical design.
Understated, yet dynamic, the frosted-titanium movement invites the eye to explore its various levels and landmarks, from
the clear hour ring and red seconds hand to the caffeinated
A sapphire
crystal bridge
secures the
fast-moving
tourbillon in this
white gold version
of the Tourbillon
24 Secondes
Contemporain.
gyrations of this creation’s namesake complication.
Held in place by a sapphire crystal bridge, the tourbillon
cage completes its rotation in just 24 seconds, almost three
times faster than a typical tourbillon. The speed of the cage,
coupled with the 25-degree tilt of the balance, is designed to
improve chronometric precision by counteracting the effects
of gravity on the mechanism in different positions.
By definition, it’s a tourbillon. But it’s such a bold reinvention of the form that it’s virtually impossible to find
something else like it out there today. Forsey says that’s no
accident. “In our own particular way, we’ve opened a new
avenue of watchmaking that doesn’t seek to replace a highend piece from another company. Instead, we offer something that is different, but complementary.”
While the founders are proud of the success the company
has enjoyed during its first decade, Forsey says it’s also the
perfect time to rededicate itself to the company’s core mission.
“What defines us, I think, is our resistance to going down the
evil path of temptation where we start thinking: ‘Well, no one
would notice if we cut back on something like finishing to save
time and effort.’ But even if we succeeded, and no one noticed,
we would know the difference. So instead, we embrace the
challenge and push ourselves further. That’s what Greubel
Forsey is all about — no compromises.” ¨
59
H. MOSER & CIE.
Independent
SPIRIT
BY TANYA DUKES
H. Moser & Cie. possesses both a
legacy of innovation and a forwardlooking perspective that makes
it one of the most revered
independent manufactures
operating today.
T
he new Endeavour Perpetual
Calendar Black Edition
retains the sophisticated
characteristics that define
H. Moser & Cie. — classical proportions and useful complications elegantly executed — but with a look
and feel that bridges the gap between
contemporary technology and horological tradition.
Introduced in 2006, the Perpetual
Calendar combines a clever display with a
movement that automatically compensates
for the varying lengths of the months, as well
as leap years. Its discreet attitude conceals the
high degree of its sophistication from the uninitiated. The leap year function is on the movement
side of the watch, visible through the sapphire
caseback rather than the dial. And one of the most
head-turning features is a short hand at center that
points to each hour marker to indicate the month.
Meanwhile, the date window features the brand’s “Flash
Calendar,” which instantaneously advances at midnight
in a fraction of a second. This innovation also makes it
possible for the watch to be adjusted forward or backward without harming the gears, a rarity in perpetual
calendars.
The brand’s award-winning perpetual calendar movement
is now available in a 40.8mm titanium case coated with
scratch-resistant DLC.
60
To match the modern spin on this classic complication, H. Moser & Cie. offers this new version in a striking black DLC-coated titanium case — a first for the
brand, which usually works in gold or platinum.
More than giving the watch stealthy good looks, the
combination of materials also makes it extremely
lightweight and resistant to scratches. As a result, when you pass the watch down to the next
generation, it will look just as handsome as
the day you purchased it.
Left: The new Venturer collection
includes this model with a small
seconds display. The 39mm red
gold case houses the firm’s finely
decorated hand-wound movement.
QUIET POWER
As with all H. Moser & Cie. models,
refinement and utility take precedence
over spectacle without a purpose. The
Venturer Small Seconds exemplifies
that ethos. It shares the round case, polished hands and baton indexes of the
brand’s other models, but adds a few subtle
updates, like a narrower bezel and a convex
crystal and dial that give extra dimension to the
display. There’s also dramatic news concealed
within: the new HMC 327. This hand-wound movement merges advanced materials like a silicon
escape wheel and anchor with the traditional finishing that decorates the plates and bridges.
The Endeavour Dual Time shares the Perpetual
Calendar’s clean display and easy legibility, qualities
that can be hard to come by in a travel watch. When
away from your usual time zone, the red hand tracks
the local hour. Meanwhile, the main display shows your
home time and includes a helpful day-night indicator
at 12 o’clock. When you’re back at home again, the dualtime zone hand can be hidden entirely behind the
main hour hand.
Each H. Moser & Cie. timepiece is a tribute
to the beauty of the classical watch form. And
with intense aesthetic rigor and technical virtuosity, the manufacture continues to build
on the past with meaningful innovations
that advance the art of timekeeping. ¨
Right: The automatic movement
that powers the Endeavour
Dual Time is made entirely in-house
by H. Moser & Cie.
61
HUBLOT
Winning
PERSONALITY
BY JONATHAN BUES
Hublot builds on its sporty appeal with a growing
list of technical capabilities that includes
making its own chronographs in-house.
W
hile club sports like tennis and golf
have long been the preferred playgrounds of luxury watch sponsorships, Hublot has taken a much
broader approach to endorsements, opting
instead for the popular and exciting setting
of the soccer field, basketball court and
race track. The Swiss watchmaker’s current
lineup of partnerships includes Ferrari,
soccer legend Pelé, the L.A. Lakers, the
Miami Heat and its star Dwyane Wade.
This year, Hublot honors former player
and current Chelsea F.C. manager José Mourinho
with the King Power Special One.
A few things immediately grab your attention when seeing this striking blue timepiece.
First and foremost is its formidable size — a
statement-making 48mm on the wrist. Next is its
richly textured, blue carbon-fiber bezel. Instead of
a conventional application or surface treatment, it’s
the result of an advanced technical process in which
the color is injected directly into the fibers.
Residing in the watch’s titanium case is an automatic-winding UNICO flyback chronograph movement. Made by Hublot, this complex caliber goes a
step further than conventional chronographs with its
ability to time consecutive events with the press of a
single button, ideal for timing conditioning sprints
and drills on the practice field.
Limited to 250 pieces, the King Power
Special One was created for brand
ambassador José Mourinho, whose
nickname is “Special One.”
62
VICTORY LAP
Hublot and Ferrari have been partners on the racetrack for almost
two years. During that time, the two companies collaborated on a
number of innovative and sporty luxury timepieces.
One of the latest chapters in the Hublot-Ferrari alliance is
the Big Bang Ferrari Carbon Red Magic. It provides a vivid
showcase for Hublot’s in-house production of carbon fiber
cases. Each one is made by stacking sheets of carbon fiber
material, pressing them into molds, and then placing them in
extremely hot ovens. This process of stacking and heating the
carbon fiber results in a bubble-free — and therefore stronger
— material from which to machine the Big Bang case.
The movement that powers this timepiece is another
designed and manufactured entirely by Hublot just outside
Geneva. Its flyback chronograph function is perfect for
timing laps, making it an essential part of the competitive
driver’s kit.
As its number of in-house movements grows, it’s only
fitting that Hublot would pair one of its flyback chronographs with the brand’s iconic Big Bang model. The Big
Bang UNICO Titanium Ceramic features a robust 45.5mm
case with a black ceramic bezel secured by the brand’s
familiar H-shaped screws. In a departure from all other
Big Bangs since the line’s 2005 introduction, this model
features round pushers that echo the look of automobile
pistons. It also boasts Hublot’s intuitive strap-changing
system, which doesn’t require any tools.
For anyone who has followed watches long enough,
Hublot is undeniably one of the industry’s greatest
success stories. When it started, it dared to pair its
luxury watches with rubber straps. Now, the firm
is one of the leading sport-luxury watchmakers, with
a long list of celebrity and sports ambassadors, as
well as a growing list of in-house capabilities and
complications. ¨
From top: Hublot now makes its own carbon fiber cases, like the one
used for the Big Bang Ferrari Carbon Red Magic, a limited edition of
1,000 pieces.
Hublot pairs its signature model with its manufacture chronograph for
the Big Bang UNICO Titanium Ceramic.
63
HYT
Live and
LET DYE
BY SCOTT HICKEY
HYT adds a splash of color to its hydromechanical watches with new red
and blue hour indicators.
M
ore than a simple cosmetic change, creating
these new fluid colors
presented a formidable
technical hurdle. To better understand why, HYT CEO Vincent
Perriard says it’s important to
remember that the hour “hand” is
actually comprised of two liquids
— one colored and water-based and
the other clear and viscous. “The challenge is to keep these two fluids separate so they never mix,” he explains.
“That means we not only had to develop a
new colored liquid, but also find the formula
for its viscous counterpart.” Starting from scratch,
the company spent a year developing the red display
and more than 18 months on the blue version.
Housed in a 48.8mm titanium case, HYT’s mechanical
movement keeps time and powers the retrograde liquid
hour indicator. Production of the H2 Titanium Platinum
SQ will be limited to 15 pieces.
FLUID MOVEMENTS
A standout among these kaleidoscopic debuts is the
H2 Titanium Platinum SQ. Its red liquid moves like a
retrograde hand as it traces the curves of the round
platinum bezel. When it reaches the titanium dome at
6 o’clock, the red recedes and then continues its journey from its starting point.
In the H2, this revolutionary fluid indicator is
paired with a caliber designed by master watchmaker
Giulio Papi. By angling the bellows that contain the
liquids into a V-shape, he created more space to show
off the movement architecture, including the oscillating balance wheel at the top of the dial. The design also
adds functionality with a central minutes hand, a crown
position indicator and a thermal gauge that lets you know
when the watch is in its optimal temperature range.
The view from the back has evolved as well. The H2’s
large crystal caseback reveals two mainspring barrels used
to store the watch’s eight-day power reserve. Instead of adding
a conventional power reserve indicator, HYT skeletonized the barrels so you can observe the tension in the springs and quickly see if
the watch needs winding.
PERSONAL TIME
The new hues, however, aren’t limited to the H2 collection. This
year, HYT also introduced several colorful limited editions,
including the H1 Dracula DLC (50 pieces) and the H1 Sand
Barth (25 pieces). The latter opens up a range of creative possibilities the likes of which have never been seen in high-end
watchmaking.
Like the H1 AZO Project and H1 Graphite Project introduced
last year, the H1 Sand Barth features a case made from polyepoxyde, an extremely strong material that’s four times lighter than
titanium. With the earlier models, HYT tinted the material to create
colored cases.
For this latest version, the brand went a step further by injecting the
polyepoxyde resin with grains of white sand taken from a beach on
St. Barths. “This resin can capture any solid element you can imagine.
It could be bubbles from your favorite Champagne, or even flakes of tobacco
from a cigar. The possibilities are amazing.” Perriard says.
With this exciting new development, HYT is taking bespoke watchmaking
to a whole new level. ¨
From top: Grains of sand appear suspended in the clear polyepoxyde case
that houses the H1 Sand Barth, which boasts HYT’s new blue hour indicator.
HYT will only make 25 of these watches.
Bright red courses through the H1 Dracula DLC’s hour display, which circles
the black DLC-coated titanium case. Production is limited to just 50 pieces.
IWC
Revival of the
FITTEST
New models in IWC’s Aquatimer collection stake
a claim to the deep with diving watch functions,
distinctive materials and historical references.
BY ELISE BRENNER
A
bronze case — IWC’s first ever — lends a stately authority to the
Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin.”
A common metal used in ship construction in the 19th century, the
bronze here is an allusion to the HMS Beagle, the vessel that first
brought Charles Darwin to the Galapagos Islands. The hardy alloy, invented
5,000 years ago but brought entirely up-to-date by IWC, comprises the interior
and exterior rotating bezels as well. These newly designed bezels are part of
the SafeDive system that graces the entire Aquatimer collection, ensuring that
no diver can accidentally underestimate the time spent below the water.
Bronze-colored
luminescent hands
and hour markers
match the bronze-alloy
case used for the Aquatimer
Chronograph Edition
“Expedition Charles Darwin.”
Below: Notches on the Aquatimer Automatic
2000’s titanium exterior bezel facilitate
rotation with gloved fingers and give the
timepiece a lighter aesthetic.
Below: A two-color system on the Aquatimer
Deep Three provides a clear visual indication
of dive status, with red for maximum depth
achieved and blue for current dive depth.
Above: As functional in the boardroom
as undersea, the Aquatimer Chronograph
combines impeccable diving functions,
chronograph indications and an
unerring sense of style.
A flyback chronograph movement with 68
hours of power reserve drives this 44mm timepiece, which bears an engraved portrait of the
influential naturalist on its caseback. Matteblack rubber on the crown and push buttons
echo the sturdy, practical, black rubber strap. It’s
affixed to the case using IWC’s new quickchange system, which is found throughout the
Aquatimer collection.
IN-DEPTH EXPERIENCE
DEEP TRADITION
Darwinian pressures have molded the Aquatimer Deep Three, a diving watch equipped with a mechanical depth gauge. Each generation
of this timepiece has become more versatile, more intuitive and safer
to use.
As the rotating bezels keep track of dive time, color indicators
track current dive depth (blue) and maximum depth achieved (red).
Water resistant to 100 meters, the 46mm titanium case frames a display with luminescent touches for optimum visibility. Its reliability
and ease of use make it an obvious choice for divers, who never forget
that their safety depends on using backups at every point.
Whether professionals or accomplished amateurs, serious divers hold their instruments to exigent standards, and IWC habitually meets and
even exceeds these requirements. Paramount
among necessities for diving watches is water resistance. This prevents water from seeping in and
compromising the mechanism as divers descend
and pressure increases.
IWC draws upon a rich history of creating
watches that are resistant to high pressures like
1982’s Ocean 2000. A spiritual and aesthetic descendant of that iconic watch, the Aquatimer
Automatic 2000 is pressure resistant to 2,000
meters below the sea. Its 46mm case is crafted in
titanium, a subtle nod to the 1982 model.
A chic monochrome vision, the Aquatimer Chronograph prizes function as much as form with a 44mm stainless steel case that frames a
silver-plated dial.
Its modern take on the original Aquatimer, released in 1967, is
water resistant to 300 meters and features a chronograph, as well as
day and date displays. Luminescent details appear green for those
relating to the dive and blue for the hour markers. A small seconds
display reassures the diver that every aspect of the Aquatimer Chronograph is functioning as it should.
Drawing on the IWC’s past diving watches and adapting them to
the heightened demands of the present, the newest iteration of the
Aquatimer collection proves that evolution can be just as powerful as
revolution. ¨
POLISH AND POISE
67
CULINARY CAMEOS
Manhattan
MENU
MYSTERY
BY AMY COHEN
Discovering a good restaurant in an unusual place is
akin to unraveling a delicious mystery. To find clues,
it helps to take a page from Sherlock Holmes and
remember that the key — first and foremost —
is knowing where to look.
I
gnore the obvious assumptions about
where to begin your search. Forget the
usual suspects near cultural and business centers and the long list of trendy
spots in every neighborhood. Most are
fine, but do little to satisfy your sense of
adventure. For that, you’ll need a bit more
imagination and ingenuity.
The five hidden gems we’ve uncovered challenge the notion that location is
everything. So put aside any skepticism
about where good food is found, embrace
your culinary curiosity and follow us as
we explore a great menu mystery.
68
Bar and oven photos by Daniel Krieger. Ricotta gnudi photo by Cayla Zahoran. Branzino, delizia al limone, and margherita pizza photos by Evan Sung. Creste di gallo photo by Michael Marquand.
STELLA 34 TRATTORIA
Macy’s Herald Square
151 West 34th Street, 6th Floor
212.967.9251
W
hen thinking of Macy’s, a few
things come to mind: the Thanksgiving Day parade, the world’s largest
department store and Miracle on 34th
Street. What’s astonishing is the dining
oasis on the sixth floor. With its clean
lines, 240-foot white Carrara marble bar,
and evocative artwork, the elegant room
shows no signs of its former life as an
unused storeroom. Named for Italy’s
three active volcanoes, a trio of woodburning ovens perfectly cooks the pizza,
as well as the fish, steak and vegetable
entrees on the menu.
Have charcuterie with finocchiona
salami, or house-made pasta like spicy
cresta di gallo with escarole macaroni,
lobster, tomato, guanciale and breadcrumbs. The oven-roasted branzino al
forno served with spicy puttanesca
sauce and potatoes is the perfect fish
course. Gelato for dessert is de rigueur,
as Stella 34 is home to Vivoli, Italy’s finest gelateria. Have it alongside delizia
al limone made with lemon genovese,
cornmeal pastafrolla, toasted meringue
and lemon-curd gelato. The exceptional
floor-to-ceiling views of the Empire
State Building, Herald Square and
Broadway provide a magical finish to a
memorable meal.
MORIMOTO
Chelsea Market, 88 10th Avenue
212.989.8883 • morimotonyc.com
T
he 35-plus vendors inside the Chelsea Market offer a global perspective that encompasses everything from
matzo ball soup to exotic nuts. When
“Iron Chef” Masaharu Morimoto decided to make one of New York’s greatest
food halls his home, he draped the
restaurant’s oversized entry with a red
Japanese Noren curtain as a clue that
the menu is not the typical blend of
East and West. The stylized interior’s
sleek seating, streamer-like ceiling and
show-stopping luminescent wall complement the contemporary twist on
sushi, sashimi and maki.
Try any of the seasonal offerings,
or sample signature dishes like toro
tartare or scallop carpaccio. “Duck,
Duck, Duck” combines roast duck, soft
duck egg, red miso sauce and foie gras
butter on a house-baked croissant for
an unforgettable taste. Less adventurous eaters can try classics like spicy
tuna pizza, crispy rock shrimp tempura or braised black cod. The chef collaborated with Israeli scientist Dr.
Boaz Almed to create a levitating
amuse-bouche for VIP guests. Using
quantum physics and liquid nitrogen,
the serving plate hovers above the
main serving piece — something that
must be seen to be believed.
All photographs courtesy of Morimoto.
CULINARY CAMEOS
Food hall entrance and interior photos by Eric Laignel. All other photos courtesy of Todd English Food Hall.
TODD ENGLISH FOOD HALL
The Plaza Hotel – Concourse Level
768 5th Avenue
212.986.9260 • theplazany.com
W
ith butlers on every floor and
high tea under the stained glass
ceiling in the Palm Court every afternoon, the Plaza Hotel has set a high
standard for elegance in New York for
more than a century. That’s why it’s
such a delightful surprise to ride down
the escalator and discover a festive
restaurant on the concourse level. Todd
English’s version of a great European
food hall features an open plan that allows guests to sit anywhere and order
from any of the eight open kitchens.
The design pays homage to the Plaza
with its mosaic floor and a skylight
modeled after the one in the Palm Court.
Signature dishes include old-school
rigatoni bolognese, fig and prosciutto
flatbread pizza, baby kale salad or any
of the handmade artisanal pastas drying on racks that line the back wall.
Have some fun with the “Tuna Two Way
Roll,” lobster guacamole, or the Korean
kalbi lamb chops, which gets its kick
from both kimchi and jalapeno. Whether it’s the raw bar or the rotisserie, pull
up a chair in front of one of the open
kitchens, and enjoy the liveliest cooking
theatre around.
71
MAIALINO
Gramercy Park Hotel
2 Lexington Avenue
212.777.2410 • maialinonyc.com
A
modern take on the grand New
York hotel tradition, the legendary Gramercy Park Hotel has been an
artistic haven for almost a century.
Humphrey Bogart was married on the
rooftop terrace, and everyone from
John F. Kennedy to the Rolling Stones
has spent time there. Located on-site
and open throughout the day, Maialino
functions as a gathering place for
hotel guests, as well as the entire
neighborhood. Channeling the spirit of
a Roman trattoria, the menu reflects
the cultures of both Rome and New
York and celebrates the restaurant’s
relationships with local farmers and
suppliers.
Maialino — Italian for “little pig”
— is the main ingredient in many of the
specialties, including the many offal
dishes. If it’s your first time, try the
malfatti (suckling pig ragu, torn pasta
and citrus-splashed arugula). A good
antipasti choice is the fried artichokes
and lemon. Feeling bold? Then the
testarella al maialino (crispy suckling
pig face with market greens) is for you.
Classics like the spaghetti carbonara
never disappoint. End with the torta
della nonna, (pine nut tart with lemon
and caramel) or an after-dinner drink
from the all-Italian wine list.
Suckling pig and orrichiette pasta photos by Nicole Franzen. All other photos by Ellen Silverman.
CULINARY CAMEOS
All photographs by Virginia Rollison.
EATALY NYC
200 Fifth Avenue
212.229.2560 • eataly.com
E
ataly transports you to another
world, where discovering the best
products and the stories behind them
is second only to expanding and stimulating your palate. The bustling Italian
emporium invites shopping and tasting. Seven restaurants anchor the action, thriving under the elaborately
decorated ceiling from the spaces’ former life as a luxury hotel. This is true
market-to-table eating, with more than
7,000 gourmet and Italian specialty
products surrounding you.
The restaurants are divided according to the featured ingredient, and
the house-made artisanal bread, mozzarella, salumi, fresh pasta and gelato
are all made daily according to Italian
traditions. Sit or stand at the tables
and counters among the produce and
retail area where you can enjoy a glass
of wine with fritto misto (fried seasonal vegetables). Nab a table at Il Pesce
and taste the whole fish al forno while
the buzz of shoppers swarms around
you. Buy the ingredients here to make
tortelloni with braised beef and brown
beech mushrooms at home, or pamper
yourself and let the chef at Manzo —
Eataly’s more formal dining experience — prepare it for you instead. ¨
73
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
A f lying tourbillon and perpetual
calendar join forces in the Master
Grande Tradition Tourbillon
Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel.
Spring Into
ACTION
S
ince the early 19th century, the Vallée de Jouxbased manufacture has been an epicenter of
horological invention. With an extensive catalog of patents and calibers to its name,
Jaeger-LeCoultre shows no signs of resting on its laurels and instead is picking up its pace of innovation.
As early as 1891, the manufacture stood apart
from its peers by combining two classical complications — the chronograph and the repeater — in a single timepiece, a move that created a path to developing its grand complication calibers. That historical
innovation presaged a pairing of even greater intricacy more than a century later, as observed in the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à
Quantième Perpétuel.
Now available in rose gold, this impressive model
features the rare combination of a flying tourbillon
and a perpetual calendar. An automatic movement
created entirely in-house powers the watch and includes a gold oscillating weight engraved with a reproduction of the medal the company won in 1889 at
the Paris Universal Exposition. The sapphire crystal
window on the back of the 42mm case is essential to
fully appreciate the movement’s exquisite finishing
and intricate engineering.
For the tourbillon’s instantly recognizable cylindrical balance spring, the company revives a watchmaking technology rarely employed today and updates it using modern methods. Compared to flat
balance springs, the current standard, the coils of
this cylindrical version descend like a spiral staircase, a shape that reduces contact between the coils
and heightens performance. Indeed, the brand touts
the Cylindrique Perpétuel as the most accurate perpetual calendar ever produced. Adding to the engaging design, the traditional bridge has been removed
above the tourbillon cage to create a flying tourbillon
that appears to levitate at 6 o’clock.
A marvel that fuses advanced craftsmanship and
a keen affection for watchmaking history, the Master
Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième
Perpétuel has already secured a place for itself as a
benchmark of high horology.
BY TANYA DUKES
From advanced movements to delicate diamond
settings, Jaeger-LeCoultre practices every aspect
of the watchmaking arts at its highest level.
BUSINESS OR PLEASURE
If you spend a lot of time exploring the world or doing business in
far-flung locales, the Duomètre Unique Travel Time keeps you
on time with an advanced movement that combines a world-timer
function with a rare second time zone display that can be set to
the minute.
A model of efficiency, the dial provides a great deal of information quickly. The globe that anchors the design visually is also
a world time display orbited by a GMT ring that doubles as a day/
night indicator. The home time appears at the right, opposite the
travel time, which features a digital jump hour display.
The Duomètre Unique Travel Time has two mainsprings, one
dedicated to timekeeping and the other exclusively for the world
timer and dual time zone functions.
75
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
Despite its mechanical complexity, the movement is easy to adjust. Begin by finding your time
zone among the 24 GMT designations engraved
on the back of the rose gold case and setting the
GMT ring. So for example, to set the home time as
New York City, you would use the pushers on the
side of the case to advance the GMT ring so that
-4 (the city’s GMT designation) lines ups with the
triangular marker at the bottom of the dial. Once
the home and travel displays are synchronized,
the pushers rapidly adjust the second time zone
display, forward or backward.
Here’s the really cool part. The minute hand
for the travel time display can be set independently to account for locations that observe non-standard time zones. (All of India, for example, is off
by 30 minutes from standard GMT.) This extremely rare feature makes the Unique Travel
Time the only watch in the world with a second
time zone display that can be set to the minute
using a single crown.
A cordovan leather strap
made by an Argentinian
polo outfitter is paired
with the Grande Reverso
Ultra Thin 1931.
SOPHISTICATED SIMPLICITY
At only 4.9mm thick, the Master Ultra Thin Moon 39
is one of the thinnest watches in the collection.
76
While the manufacture is an expert at developing complex movements,
it’s equally adept at understatement. Indeed, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most
iconic watch is a study in artful simplicity.
The Reverso was created during the 1930s for polo players who
requested a timepiece that could be worn safely during their rough
and tumble play. To protect the crystal, the rectangular case swiveled
so that the metal caseback faced front.
The Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 recalls the era when the
model debuted with a warm, chocolate-colored dial inspired by a design from the company’s archive. As you would expect from its name,
this model maintains a low profile with a case that is about 7mm thick.
The custom-made strap brings the Reverso back to its sporting origins and is made by Casa Fagliano, an Argentinian workshop that specializes in polo boots.
That signature balance of watchmaking expertise and elegant
design continues in a different collection with the Master Ultra
Thin Moon 39.
Without a single extraneous detail, this round stainless steel
watch distills each feature to its minimalist essence. Dagger-shaped
hour markers against a silvered sunray dial are easily legible, yet have
a pleasing effect. The economical design carries over to the display at
the bottom, which combines indications for the date and moon phase.
This efficiency extends to the proportions of the case, which measures
39mm across and about 5mm thick.
The Rendez-Vous collection
is the first by Jaeger-LeCoultre
produced exclusively for women.
MEMORABLE MEETING
For more than a century, Jaeger-LeCoultre has crafted timepieces for women, including delicate examples of exquisite
jewelry watches sheathed in gold, diamonds and gemstones.
In 1929, those creations for ladies sparked the invention of
Calibre 101, which remains the smallest mechanical movement ever made.
And while iconic watches like the Reverso have long
been available in styles and sizes adapted for women, the
Rendez-Vous collection marks the first time that the manufacture has created a model from scratch expressly for
female clients.
Its introduction signals a respect for the unique considerations inherent in crafting a ladies’ watch. Aesthetic
choices abound, starting with the graceful round case,
which comes in different metals, can be set with diamonds,
and paired with a strap or bracelet. The case is also available in four sizes that range from a petite 27.5mm version to
a generously scaled 36mm model.
As the number of women who crave complicated watches grows steadily, the company continues to respond in kind
with mechanical movements equipped with various functions. For those seeking everyday practicality, the RendezVous Date and Rendez-Vous Night & Day both satisfy. And
for those who desire higher complication, the Rendez-Vous
collection includes perpetual calendar and tourbillon models, as well as the Rendez-Vous Celestial, which includes a
rotating lapis lazuli disc that depicts the position of the
constellations.
With its deep exploration of the aesthetic and mechanical possibilities of contemporary watchmaking, JaegerLeCoultre epitomizes the art of horology. ¨
77
LUDOVIC BALLOUARD
No Time
Like The
PRESENT
BY ELISE BRENNER
Ingenious watchmaker Ludovic
Ballouard uses original mechanisms and playful displays
to propose a focus on the
moment.
A
t first glance, the face
o f t h e H a l f Ti m e
seems to have been
designed by an artist
with only a passing familiarity
with Roman numerals. In this
looking-glass world, each stop
around the dial’s perimeter features
an exquisite jumble, with the bottom
of one numeral affixed to the top of
another.
At the top of the dial (one hesitates
to call the position “12 o’clock,” given
the context), one numeral stands proudly
legible, allowing the wearer to read the
current hour. Although the dial appears
seamless and unbroken to the unaided eye,
two concentric discs each bear half a
numeral. As the hour changes, the discs
instantaneously rotate in opposite directions, lining up to snap the appropriate
hour indication into being.
The minute indication is slightly more
traditional, but just as elegant: a retrograde indication across the bottom of the dial describes a 120º arc. As the hour changes and the discs
perform their lightning-fast two-step, the retrograde minute hand flies
back to the beginning of its path. Housed in a 35mm platinum case, the
Half Time shows off its unprecedented movement through a sapphire
caseback, revealing its inner workings to its wearer while maintaining
an air of mystery on the dial side.
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Ludovic Ballouard’s Half Time watch splits
Roman numerals in two around the circumference of the dial, reuniting the halves for just an
hour at a time.
An equally intriguing variation reinterprets the Half
Time inspiration for a Chinese audience. Instead of the
traditional Western Roman numerals so often seen
on Swiss watches, Chinese digits take the stage,
dividing and uniting in the blink of an eye. With
this tweak, Ludovic Ballouard translates the
inspired puzzle of the Half Time into a
dramatic new register, crafted in red or
white gold.
Left: Chinese characters
indicate the hour in this
red gold variation on the
Half Time theme.
Below: A dark blue titanium
dial provides an understated
backdrop for the highly original
Upside Down complication,
framed by a platinum case.
TURN IT UP
The unique complication that started a legend continues to work its magic on Ludovic
Ballouard’s Upside Down.
Around its dial, twelve traditional Arabic numerals indicate the present hour, the
hours gone by and those yet to come. Each
one takes center stage on a small rotating
disc…and all but one are upside down. Only
the numeral indicating the current hour
stands right-side up, a cheeky reminder that we
must live in the moment, seizing not just the
day, but the hour. As the minute hand completes
its tour around the dial, the old hour marker
and the new each complete an instantaneous
180º rotation, moving too quickly for the human
eye to follow.
Rays of mother-of-pearl marquetry highlight the hour
markers of this limited edition Upside Down model in
a red gold case.
Whether the dial is cloaked in a subdued dark blue, or clad in
a stunning mother-of-pearl inlay, the Upside Down presents a playful yet thought-provoking spectacle, staged within a platinum or
red gold case.
An expansive consideration of the upside-down concept guides
the entire design. For instance, it would have been simpler to locate
the complication directly beneath the dial, but the beauty of the
movement would have been hidden. Instead, Ludovic Ballouard
designed the movement so that the rotating mechanisms could be
seen through the sapphire crystal back of the 35mm case. The
wearer can thus admire the rapid relay of the rotating hour markers from the other side — or, depending on one’s perspective, from
upside-down.
The mix of extreme technical sophistication, a unique horological outlook and a splash of mischief has always been Ludovic
Ballouard’s calling card, and the watch world waits to see what
intuitive, imaginative marvel the horologer will create next. ¨
79
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
The Ovale Pantographe
features unusual hour
and minute hands that
expand and contract in
length as they move.
80
What Goes
AROUND
BY JAMES LAMDIN
S
By combining whimsical elements of historical high horology with modern
sensibilities, Parmigiani Fleurier demonstrates an unparalleled range of design.
ome timepiece manufactures push the limits of
wristwatch design simply because they can. For
others, it’s a gimmick. For Parmigiani Fleurier, the
inspiration for innovation comes from a
more respectable place: the past.
The history of horology has been at the
core of everything Parmigiani Fleurier stands
for since its beginnings in 1996. Founded by
Michel Parmigiani, a master watchmaker
particularly interested in the restoration
and preservation of historically significant timepieces, the young manufacture has gone on to develop a number
of pieces that draw directly from some
of the most unusual and rarely seen
complications of the past — and the
results are truly stunning.
MODERN MAGIC
The Ovale Pantographe is based
on a rare English pocket watch
brought into Parmigiani for restoration in 1997. Taking the first part of
its name from its oval-shaped case,
the novelty of this unique timepiece
comes primarily from its amazing
hands, which actually telescope in and
out along the curvature of the oval dial as
time is counted. This nearly unheard-of design
is known as a pantograph and features an accordion-like set of steel hands with miniature
pivot points for both the hour and minute
pointers. The result of years of development,
this incredible design is a wonder to behold in person, and watching the hands adjust themselves as they
make their way around the dial is spectacular.
On the inside of this beauty is another masterful mechanical triumph, an impressive caliber from Parmigiani’s
workshops with an eight-day power reserve. This elegant
movement is visible through a rectangular
display back and shows incredible
hand-finished decoration like côtes de
Genève. The case is offered in either rose or
white gold and paired with a silver guilloché dial with blued-PVD treated hour
markers.
The sheer elegance of the Ovale
and its remarkable hands cannot
be overstated, or fully appreciated through pictures or
words. If you’re seeking something beyond the realm of
traditional luxury, you’d do
well to get one of these on
your wrist posthaste and see
what sort of magic can come
from Parmigiani Fleurier’s
revival of an age-old design.
LIVING FOR THE CITY
If a more modern design is closer
to your heart, check out the new
Tonda Metro Collection. A series of
brilliantly designed core models for
both ladies and gents, the line combines
elements of the brand’s signature style
and historical inspiration with sporty
functionality. This new collection focuses
on both luxury and practical wear-ability
to great effect. Offered with a wide range of
dial designs and strap options, there is something here for
every city dweller on the move.
Rose gold markers and hands add a luxurious shine to the steel Metrographe’s grained white dial.
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PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
The new Metrographe brings
together the convenience of an
automatic chronograph with a
beautifully stylized dial housed in
a 40mm steel case. With crisp,
easy-to-read subsidiary registers
measuring elapsed time, the
Metrographe is a successful crossover into the realm of luxury sport
timepieces. And with a sensibly
sized case and distinctive design,
this watch certainly won’t be mistaken for anything else.
If your day takes you well past
the setting of the sun, opt for the
Metrographe Luminous, which
pairs the Metrographe’s sporting
energy with some after-hours kick.
Loaded up on SuperLuminova
across the dial and hands, the
watch positively glows well into
the evening, ensuring the passage
of time is measured precisely long
after your internal clock has been
switched off.
The new Tonda Metropolitaine
collection offers women automatic
movements in a range of aesthetic
choices.
SOFT TOUCH IN
A SHARP WORLD
Men with active lifestyles, however, aren’t the only beneficiaries
of the new Tonda Metro Collection.
Highlights for women watch enthusiasts include the lovely Tonda
Metropolitaine, offered with a
choice of exotic dials showcasing
the luxurious elements of design
that Parmigiani Fleurier so effortlessly exudes. Shown here are two
examples of a diverse palette of
styles, the Tonda Metropolitaine
with mother-of-pearl dial and diamond bezel paired with a Hermès
leather strap and an all-steel
bracelet model with a lovely,
textured-red dial.
Both examples make use of a
perfectly proportioned 34mm steel
case and Parmigiani’s PF310 automatic movement, making them
some of the most desirable women’s
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The 40mm Metrographe
Luminous is legible day or
night thanks to strategically
placed luminescent elements.
Shown here with a
mother-of-pearl dial,
the 34mm stainless steel
Metropolitaine is for
women who demand
excellence in mechanical
timekeeping.
watches on the market with mechanical movements. Both
versions use rose gold prominently on the dial and hands
and feature a subsidiary seconds and date function.
As a capstone to the ladies’ collection, the Tonda
1950 Chevron stands in a class of its own. Featuring a
case finished in white gold and a Tahitian mother-of-pearl
dial, the 1950 comes alive with a diamond-set bezel
and a hand-braided leather strap with a chevron pattern.
This handcrafted elegance and attention to detail makes
Parmigiani Fleurier an exciting option for ladies who
demand more from their timepieces.
Part of Parmigiani Fleurier’s allure is its range of capability, but also the comfort it has producing a wide variety of styles, be it an haute horlogerie homage such as
the Ovale Pantographe, or a modern sports luxury chronograph like the Metrographe Luminous. Far too often, timepiece manufactures step out of their comfort range when
expanding to new categories of design, and the results are
less than impressive. This is most certainly not the case
with Parmigiani, which has proven time and again that
their business is time itself — in all its forms. ¨
Right: A hand-woven strap with a distinctive chevron pattern
accompanies this diamond-set Tonda 1950.
83
RICHARD MILLE
Wave
of INNOVATION
BY JAMES LAMDIN
A driving passion for high-tech innovation propels Richard Mille
to answer questions that have never been asked — with
astounding results.
C
olin Chapman, the man behind the success of the legendary Lotus Motor
Company, once famously decreed that the ultimate way to make a sports car
go faster and handle better was to “add lightness,” a winning formula that
countless automakers and racing teams have been following for decades.
It is fitting, then, that Richard Mille, the man behind one of the industry’s
most exciting modern timepiece makers, comes from a background of high-tech
material design and production. When Mille launched his namesake brand in
2001, he instantly made waves with his dynamic design and use of those same
ultra-lightweight materials.
Both visually outrageous and technically brilliant, his watches are an answer
to the question of just how far modern watch design can go.
RISING TIDE
The RM 60-01 Regatta Flyback Chronograph is in a league of its own. A
first for the brand, the RM 60-01 is intended for use in the high-energy sport of
sailboat racing.
Sailing watches, also commonly known as regatta or yacht timers, are a specialized type of chronograph used to time the countdown to the start of a regatta.
Unlike auto racing, where drivers start from pre-determined places on a stationary grid, sailboats are in constant motion. At a predetermined time before the
start of a regatta, captains begin jockeying their yachts into position with the
goal of being as close to the starting line as possible when the gunshot signaling
the start of the regatta rings out.
Specialized nautical watches have helped captains keep track of this countdown for decades, but never has the sport seen anything like this, as the RM 60-01
was designed from the ground up to be the ultimate expression of technical
prowess for this intense sport.
Utilizing the titanium RMAC2 caliber, the RM 60-01 includes a minute counter for the chronograph at 9 o’clock that actually counts up and down simultaneously. As the inner disc turns, the 60 serves as a hand to count up the minutes on
the green outer register. At the same time, the display can be read as a regatta
countdown timer by using the yellow arrow, which indicates the minutes printed
on the inner ring.
Another technical breakthrough the RM 60-01 brings to the sport is its functionality as a navigational instrument. By using the UTC hand (Coordinated Universal Time), a geographical direction can be determined, enabling the wristwatch to function as a compass. To do this, use the UTC pusher at 8 o’clock to line
84
The RM 60-01 Regatta Flyback
Chronograph includes a countdown timer at 9 o’clock that
allows a captain to anticipate
the start of a yacht race. Working
together, the UTC hand and
rotating bezel can be used to
determine a compass bearing.
RICHARD MILLE
up the red indicator with the sun and then rotate the engraved
bezel to line up with the current local time. As a result, the bezel
will display compass bearings (highlighted by large red indicators) for both the Northern (printed in green) and Southern
(in white) hemispheres.
In signature Richard Mille fashion, all of this technical
functionality is presented in a distinctive and unmistakable
package. From the large crown and rectangular pushers to the
skeletonized dial with colorful accents, there is no mistaking
this maritime marvel for anything else.
AT HOME ON THE EDGE
If sailing isn’t your thing but you still appreciate the ingenuity that comes from Richard Mille’s performance-inspired design, don’t despair! The RM 11-02 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Zone shares the same movement as the
Regatta Flyback Chronograph, but sheds the nautical specialization in favor of a simplified design geared for daily wear.
The self-winding movement includes titanium components
coated with black PVD, which are visible through the clear
back. The titanium case, which is comprised of three main
sections, comes in the brand’s familiar tonneau-shape.
The RM 11-02 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Dual
Time Zone offers a rare combination of functions
with an annual calendar, flyback chronograph and
GMT hand.
The mesmerizing waves that appear on the RM-011 Carbon
NTPT Automatic are a hallmark of the North Thin Ply
Technology material used for the lightweight case.
86
An impeccable traveler’s watch, its prominent greentipped hand indicates the hour in a second time zone. The
watch also includes an annual calendar function, automatically adjusting the large date display to compensate
for the irregular length of the months. The display
requires a manual adjustment only once a year, when
February turns to March. Nestled between the 4 and 5 on
the dial, there is also a display for the month, a function
not often seen with an annual calendar.
Richard Mille continues to push the envelope with
the RM-011 Carbon NTPT Automatic. Its case is made
with North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT), a strong yet
incredibly light material that’s been used in high-tech
applications such as racing yachts and Formula 1 racing
cars. The material is comprised of carbon filaments
woven together and injected with resin by a machine that
sets the direction of the strands to a 45-degree angle, the
result of which gives the material a unique grained
appearance more commonly found in hardwoods.
Wrapped snuggly by this cutting edge material is the
brand’s venerable RMCA1, a titanium flyback chronograph movement with a double-barrel power reserve and
variable geometry rotor. The RMCA1 boasts a 55-hour
power reserve with displays for the month and date.
NO COMPROMISES
To underscore its commitment to developing cutting-edge timepieces for women, Richard Mille proclaimed 2014 to be “The Year of the Woman.” As a result,
the brand expanded its ladies’ collection with several
new timepieces, including the RM 037 Ladies. It’s
offered with a variety of dial configurations and stone
settings to suit a range of tastes and styles. Unlike other
manufactures that sacrifice technical elements when
creating a women’s collection, the RM 037 houses the
The RM 037 Ladies’ skeletonized automatic movement is
sheathed elegantly within a
black ceramic case (52.63 x
34.40mm) that includes a
red gold caseband.
The diamond dial and red-gold accents provide a luxurious
contrast to the RM 07-01 White Ceramic’s technically advanced
automatic movement.
impressive mechanical CRMA1 caliber, and comes
replete with a bevy of highly technical elements,
such as a quick-advance date display and a button
that selects the crown’s function: winding, neutral
or setting.
The Year of the Woman also includes an exquisite version of the RM 07-01 White Ceramic.
Designed in Richard Mille’s signature style, the
RM 07-01’s case is available for the first time in
white ceramic. The dial is partially skeletonized
with diamond insets and red-gold accents.
Once again, the beauty of this ladies’ timepiece
is far more than skin-deep. The RM 07-01 houses an
automatic movement with a power reserve of nearly
50 hours — a figure unheard of among women’s
watches. Both of these watches perfectly illustrate
Richard Mille’s passion for bringing haute horology
to ladies timepieces for 2014 and beyond.
For a woman — or a man — who won’t accept
anything less than top-of-the-line luxury and engineering, there simply may be no better choice than
Richard Mille. ¨
87
ULYSSE NARDIN
Limited to just 20 pieces, the Imperial Blue features
a flying tourbillon, as well as a mechanism that,
on demand, sounds the Westminster chimes,
the hours, quarters and minutes.
Ringing
TRUE
BY SCOTT HICKEY
Ulysse Nardin brings harmony to art
and engineering with melodic watches
that set the tone for the industry.
T
he Le Locle-based brand’s reputation for
originality is built upon a long list of
game-changing technical achievements in
the modern era, including such feats as the
astronomical watches in the Trilogy of Time and,
more recently, the Freak collection. What elevates
these timepieces beyond horological exercises,
however, is Ulysse Nardin’s ability to balance brilliant function with imaginative aesthetic.
That tradition lives on in the Imperial Blue,
an extraordinary variation on the brand’s Royal
Blue Tourbillon. While the resemblance is uncanny
thanks to the blue sapphire crystal bridge, flying
tourbillon and transparent mainplate used for both,
there is a significant difference, one you can hear.
The Imperial Blue includes a Grande Sonnerie
Westminster Carillon, a mechanism that plays the
familiar four-note melody on demand, and also
strikes the hours, quarter hours and minutes. Without prompting, the watch automatically chimes
each new hour, a feature that can be silenced with
the push of a button.
It’s no exaggeration to say that only about a
handful of watch brands in the world today are capable of achieving this extremely high level of
complication. For Ulysse Nardin, however, this
kind of supreme mechanical sorcery is a common
thread that connects some of the company’s greatest triumphs, from the minute repeater chronograph it presented at the 1893 World’s Fair, to modernday masterpieces like its Westminster tourbillon
minute repeaters — the Genghis Khan and Alexander the Great. Today, the Imperial Blue takes its
place alongside those other legendary creations.
89
ULYSSE NARDIN
EXPRESSIVE ARTISTRY
The performance continues with the Stranger, a wristwatch that
answers the question: What happens when you combine a modern automatic movement with a music box that plays the melody
from “Strangers In the Night,” the Grammy-winning, smash hit
from 1966?
With no dial to obscure the view, the show unfolds right in
front of your eyes. At the top of every hour — or on demand — a disc
studded with raised pins turns and plucks the 10 tuned teeth poised
above and plays the memorable melody. When needed, the music
function can be turned off with the simple push of a button.
Presented in a 45mm case, this white-gold version of the
Stranger delivers a well-deserved encore to the rose-gold version
introduced last year. Like its predecessor, this new model will be
produced in a limited edition of 99 pieces.
Right: Like a wristsized music box, the
Stranger plays the
melody to “Strangers
In the Night” every
hour, or on demand.
The 44mm rose gold Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture’s dynamic lines show off the flying tourbillon, which is produced in-house.
90
Ulysse Nardin shows off a different kind of artistic sensibility with the Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture.
Throughout history, artists have seen possibilities
that others can’t. For instance, Michelangelo didn’t see a
block of marble before him, but rather a statue of David
waiting to be carved out. Similarly, the artisans at Ulysse
Nardin who created the Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture envisioned what could be when they sculpted the
sweeping lines that form the “bones” of this in-house
movement.
By removing much of the metal structure, light
floods the mechanism to reveal the watch’s inner beauty,
which is epitomized by the balanced arrangement of the
engraved winding barrel and flying tourbillon. The open
design also allows the eye to freely explore the innovative silicon technology in the tourbillon, including the
violet-colored escapement wheel.
Due to the complexity of the watch, production will
be limited to 200 pieces each in rose gold and white gold.
BLUE GENES
In the 19th century, Ulysse Nardin pioneered marine chronometers used by
sailors to navigate the oceans, a heritage proudly acknowledged by its anchor
logo, as well as the frequent recurrence of blue throughout its collection.
A tantalizing example of the latter is provided by this version of the
Executive Dual Time, which uses blue ceramic for the bezel and pushers.
The rose gold case (43mm) provides a warm counterpoint to the colorful
theme and houses one of the brand’s signature movements, which includes
a patented second time zone display.
Devised by Ulysse Nardin’s resident horological virtuoso Ludwig
Oechslin, this mechanism allows the hour hand to be adjusted quickly —
forward or backward — to reflect the local time when arriving in a new
time zone. The window positioned at 9 o’clock keeps track of the traveler’s
home time by means of a rotating 24-hour disc.
Right: When visiting a
different time zone, this
Executive Dual Time in
rose gold displays the
home hour in the window on the left.
The Freak Cruiser’s carrousel-tourbillon
movement rotates so that lower bridge shows
the hours. The anchor-shaped swing bridge
indicates the minutes and includes the
brand’s advanced Dual Ulysse escapement.
Blue colors another of Oechslin’s intriguing creations with the Freak
Blue Cruiser, the latest incarnation of Ulysse Nardin’s revolutionary carrousel tourbillon movement. An exemplar of counterintuitive thinking,
this tech is defined not by what it adds, but by what it takes away. The
dial, hands and crown are all missing, but their absence reveals a new
way of telling time.
The function of the crown is now handled by two rotating bezels. One
on the front adjusts the time, while the other on the back fuels the watch’s
seven-day power reserve. And instead of using hands and a dial to indicate the time, the entire movement rotates so that the lower bridge shows
the hours and the upper bridge tracks the minutes.
Look closer at the anchor-shaped upper bridge and you’ll discover another innovation tucked into the design, the Dual Ulysse escapement. Instead of the traditional anchor and anchor wheel construction, it relies on
two silicon impulse wheels to transmit energy to the balance staff. Because
silicon is used for the wheels, lubrication is not required and friction is reduced to enhance the movement’s performance and longevity.
Since its introduction in 2001, the Freak has provided a versatile
platform for Ulysse Nardin’s most advanced technology, but it’s also
played an important role as a trailblazer in the watch industry at large.
Its arrival signaled the beginning of a new era in watchmaking, one that
embraces the constant redefinition of mechanical horology. It’s here,
where imagination meets engineering, that the company is leading the
charge into uncharted territory. ¨
91
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Long Live
THE KING
BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
Vacheron Constantin marries artistry and high
watchmaking in its latest timepieces, which exemplify
the very best in complications and craftsmanship.
A
s mechanical watch complications go, the tourbillon occupies a class all
its own. Unlike traditional complications — which are defined as devices
that perform a function other than straight timekeeping — the tourbillon
(French for “whirlwind”) does not mark the passage of time.
Rather, the revolving mechanism was designed during the era of pocket watches, which
would often sit for hours in the same vertical position. The spinning cage of the tourbillon
helped counteract the effects of gravity on the watch, thereby improving its accuracy.
Today, watchmakers are finding innovative ways to adapt this vintage technology to wristwatches, earning high praise from connoisseurs who revere the newest tourbillons as marvels of
contemporary horology. Complex and fascinating, these next-gen tourbillons are also exceedingly
intricate — explaining why the feature has earned the nickname “the king of complications.”
GONE WITH THE WHIRLWIND
Vacheron Constantin ups the ante with its Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon, which boasts a
remarkable 14-day power reserve. Sheathed in a 42mm rose gold case, the model — also available in a sleek platinum version and a new daring openworked model — is a powerhouse of
endurance. The longevity is made possible by the inclusion of four barrels mounted in
coupled pairs. Yet the watch’s most obvious characteristic is its elegantly understated
styling: a slender bezel; rose gold dauphine hands; and a simple, opaline silver-toned
dial with a power reserve indicator up top and the tourbillon down below.
Like nearly all Vacheron Constantin timepieces, the Traditionnelle 14-day
Tourbillon bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, a third-party certification that guarantees the origin, quality, craftsmanship and reliability of
Facing page: The 14-day
timepieces crafted within the borders of Canton Geneva. Although
tourbillon at the heart
the Poinçon de Genève was instated in 1886, the certification
of Vacheron Constantin’s
process was overhauled in 2012. Now, the mark guarannew Traditionnelle
tees the quality of the watch as a whole rather
timepiece is modern-day
than solely applying to the movement.
timekeeping at its most
elegant. The rounding of
the tourbillon bar alone
requires 11 hours of hand
craftsmanship.
92
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
INTELLIGENT USE OF SPACE
Another example of high watchmaking, the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Openworked, takes a familiar complication — the perpetual calendar — and pulls back the
curtain, as it were, on the marvelous complexity required to accomplish this feat of
timekeeping. The openworked dial, which borrows its aesthetic from the lines and
shapes of the Eiffel Tower, reflects a Vacheron Constantin tradition that dates back
to 1755, when founder Jean-Marc Vacheron created a watch featuring an openworked and engraved balance cock.
Over the ensuing years, the maison continued to emphasize transparency in
the creation of its timepieces. In 1924, Vacheron Constantin produced its first
entirely openworked caliber for a pocket watch. Since then, the house has
earned a reputation for its skill in openwork, which requires a great degree
of engraving expertise and a keen understanding of proportions.
Prior to beginning the design of an openworked model, Vacheron’s
watchmakers and engineers devote hundreds of hours to conceptualizing
the caliber to determine how much material can be hollowed out without
compromising the integrity of the timekeeping mechanism. Next come the
artisans. Lauded for their dexterity, they
work each movement by hand to create polished and matte surfaces on the metal plates.
Some have curves and interior angles narrower
than 45 degrees, which means only the nimblest of human hands can manipulate them.
Once the chamfering and hand-drawing
are complete, it’s time to engrave the caliber.
The meticulous process, which takes a full
week, involves the use of a burin to gently
incise and sculpt the motifs. The precision
required to finish an entire caliber, which
can include motifs that need to be engraved down to the nearest tenth of a
millimeter, is beyond the capability of all
but the most skilled artisans — all of
which is evident with one look at the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Openworked.
Legibility was a primary
concern when designing the
Traditionnelle Perpetual
Calendar Openworked.
GREAT WIDE OPEN
A slate-gray ring frames the
dial of the Malte Tourbillon
Openworked, a supreme example
of the master engraver’s art.
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The same rigorous process applies to the Malte Tourbillon Openworked, a tonneaushaped watch that traces its name to an early Jean-Marc Vacheron creation that contained a part shaped like a Maltese cross. The part went on to become a signature feature of the maison’s movements, and explains why the Maltese cross is a key element of
the company’s logo. Today, all of the tonneau (French for “barrel”) watches in the Vacheron
Constantin collection fall under the Malte designation.
Boasting a tourbillon caged inside an openworked movement, this exceptional model is
the product of more than 500 hours of work, from conceptualization to modeling to design.
To complement the geometric shape of the watch, Vacheron’s artisans came up with an architectural motif based on the shape of the triangle. Found throughout the caliber, the tiny
triangles’ straight lines lend the piece a distinct sense of volume. A combination of light and
shadow underscores the airiness of the timepiece, which comes encased in platinum and,
like all of Vacheron’s complicated watches, bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.
TRAVEL IN STYLE
The pinnacle of the firm’s openworked
novelties this year is the Métiers
d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées collection. The watches in this series take
their inspiration from the grand railways of 19th century Europe and the
golden age of travel that they epitomize. Together, they represent the apogee of Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking skills: a perfect blend of the
engraver’s art, the horologist’s science
and the enameler’s craft.
The Mécaniques Ajourées’
three-dimensional, light-filled architecture is the result of weeks of painstaking work, many spent using a tiny
handsaw known as a bocfil to shave
down the surface of the mainplate and
bridges. The artistry, however, doesn’t
end there. The circular ring that surrounds the movement features grand
feu enameling in three distinct versions: blue, gray or black. The latter is
among the most challenging shades to
achieve using the age-old and extremely delicate process of grand feu.
There is also a high-jewelry version
that glistens with 54 baguette-cut
diamonds on the bezel and clasp.
Inspired by the glass-domed ceilings of historic European railway stations, the
Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées comes in a 40mm, white gold case.
LEADING LADY
The Patrimony Small Model is equipped with a mechanical self-winding caliber
developed and built in-house.
Vacheron Constantin’s ongoing dedication to its female collectors is exemplified in the Patrimony Small Model,
a graceful 36mm case fitted with a
bracelet that shows off the brand’s
exquisite finishing to great effect.
Diamonds on the bezel set off the
silver-toned dial, where diamond and
gold markers provide an elegant backdrop for the slender curved hands. But
for those wanting an extra dose of
sparkle, consider a second version,
which comes paved with nearly 800
diamonds.
Naturally, both models are certified with the Hallmark of Geneva —
for at Vacheron Constantin, style never
comes at the expense of substance. ¨
95
WALTHAM
A Legend
REBORN
BY SCOTT HICKEY
E
The extraordinary American brand that
helped revolutionize the watch industry in the 19th
century makes its return with an eye on the future.
stablished in 1850, Waltham changed the way
watches were made as the first company to industrialize the production process. To achieve this, it
developed extremely precise machines to produce
standardized movement components that were interchangeable.
This ran counter to the established process used throughout the industry, where parts
were made for an individual
watch rather than a series of
watches.
In 1854, the company built
its first factory in Waltham,
Massachusetts, and would
eventually adopt the town’s
name for its timepieces. The
brand’s manufacturing technique profoundly influenced
Swiss watchmaking, as well as
other industries, says Waltham
president Antonio DiBenedetto.
“Henry Ford visited the
Waltham factory in 1910 and
reportedly took some inspiration
from the innovative assembly process the company
used to make its watches. When you look back, it’s
amazing to see the impact that Waltham had over
the course of a century,” he says.
Before it moved to Switzerland in 1954, Waltham was
one of the world’s most prolific watchmakers, producing 40
million watches during its first 100 years.
EXPANDING HORIZONS
In addition to modernizing watch production, Waltham’s
story is filled with other impressive milestones. Known for
precision, Waltham pocket watches were used by railroad
companies around the world and
helped keep trains running on
time in more than 50 countries.
To achieve that level of chronometric reliability, the company
took the unprecedented step of
building its own astronomical
observatory. Prior to the advent
of the atomic clock, observatories were the best way to verify
a watch movement’s accuracy.
Waltham was also a part of
many historic moments. Two of
the earliest came in 1909, when
the brand’s pocket watches accompanied explorers Sir Ernest
Shackleton to the South Pole and
Robert Peary to the North Pole.
Despite the harsh conditions, both
of their Walthams continued to
work throughout the expeditions.
History may inform the new Waltham collection,
but DiBenedetto is quick to point out that it doesn’t
define it. “We’re obviously proud of the company’s
heritage, but we don’t want to be known as a vintage brand,”
he says. “I’m more interested in building on that past to create a modern Waltham legacy. For me, the new Aeronaval
collection represents a continuation of the Waltham spirit.”
The Waltham XA-Type 37 Model that Charles Lindbergh used in the
Spirit of St. Louis is the inspiration behind the Waltham XA wristwatch.
96
The Eclipse version of the
Waltham XA has a twotone finish with black PVD
coating the bottom section
of the titanium case.
WALTHAM
HISTORICAL REFERENCE
The Waltham CDI is heir to the Waltham CDIA Civil Date Indicator Aeronaval (above), a familiar sight on military aircraft starting in the 1940s.
To launch the brand in 2014, Waltham unveiled three models in its Aeronaval collection: Waltham XA, Waltham CDI and
Waltham ETC. Each watch offers a contemporary interpretation of some of the
brand’s most memorable timekeepers.
A prime example is the Waltham XA,
which is based on the XA-Type 37 Model,
the aeronautical clock that flew aboard
the Spirit of St. Louis in 1927 during the
first transatlantic flight. Pilot Charles
Lindbergh specifically requested that this
Waltham clock be added to the control
panel of his custom monoplane.
Like its celebrated ancestor, the new
Waltham XA includes a small seconds at
the top of the dial. In addition to improving readability, the prominent location
also helps the watch stand out among
similar timepieces that feature the seconds display at the bottom of the dial. In
terms of the watch’s technical aspects, its
automatic-winding movement stores approximately 44 hours of power and is
housed in a 47mm titanium case. Like all
of Waltham’s new timepieces, the XA is
water resistant to 300 meters.
FLYING MACHINES
Above: The angular case of the Waltham CDI houses an automatic movement that features a GMT hand and a central date indicator.
98
Throughout its history, Waltham helped
equip the American military, including in
World War I when it produced the first
wristwatches for U.S. forces called trench
watches. During the Second World War,
it manufactured a clock called the Civil
Date Indicator Aeronaval (CDIA), which
was installed in aircraft like the Hellcat
fighter and B24 bomber.
The brand takes inspiration from
that historic cockpit clock for the
Waltham CDI, recreating its central date
hand, which can be advanced by a pusher
on the side of the 47mm titanium case.
Pushers on the opposite side adjust the
main hour hand — forward or backward
— making it easy to correct the time
when changing time zones. Meanwhile, a
GMT hand keeps track of the traveler’s
home time.
The cases are faceted with a number of angles that play
with light and shadow to create a dynamic look. To underscore that contemporary style, Waltham only uses gradefive titanium for its cases, which it combines with ceramic
elements and a vulcanized-rubber strap.
The brand offers three aesthetic variations for each
model. Pure highlights the natural color of titanium. Eclipse
features a bi-color design with the lower section coated in
black-PVD. And Black Matter is a blackout version where the
entire case is covered in PVD.
This new collection signals the rebirth of a legendary
watch brand. DiBenedetto says, “Waltham wasn’t inspired
by history, it helped make it: from the North Pole with Peary
to Le Bourget airfield with Lindbergh. These timepieces
recapture that spirit of innovation as they write the next
chapter in Waltham’s extraordinary story.”¨
For this Black Matter version of the Waltham CDI,
PVD covers the entire titanium case, which is waterresistant to 300 meters.
SPEED READER
The aeronautic influence continues in the Waltham
ETC. It takes design cues from the Waltham Type-A13a,
a clock used in aircraft like the F4 Phantom, the jet
originally used to train pilots in the TOPGUN program.
Rapid readability is the central focus of the ETC,
which stands for Elapsed Time Counter. Unlike most
chronographs that use separate registers to time
events, this model features centrally fixed hands for
the minutes and seconds. The sub-dials are related to
the time display and include a 24-hour day/night
indicator on the left and a small seconds on the right.
SHARED IDENTITY
While each model in the Aeronaval collection is easily
distinguished by its individual function, a clearly
defined design code ensures all three project a united
front aesthetically.
Unlike most chronographs that rely on sub-dials to
track elapsed times, the Waltham ETC uses centered
hands for the minutes and seconds.
99
WELLENDORFF
Irresistible
CHARMS
BY ELISE BRENNER
Love offering, protective talisman and a chic
form of self-expression, Wellendorff embraces
jewelry’s many roles.
D
esigned as timeless family heirlooms, Wellendorff
pieces seem to weave a spell of protection over their
wearers. One woman wrote to the Pforzheim-based
jeweler with the story of a terrible house fire that
destroyed all of her possessions…except for a guardian angel
pendant hanging on a Wellendorff rope chain.
This inspired a fascination on the jeweler’s part with
creating talismans for the modern age, and angels became
an integral part of the jewels themselves. In addition to
inspiring designs for Wellendorff’s trademark “Ring of
the Year,” angels are also engraved inside the jeweler’s
other ring collections, nestled against the skin — as the
most powerful charms are.
“Keep Me Safe” Ring
100
“Silky Trio” Necklace
RING OF TRUTH
Family-owned for four generations, Wellendorff is best
known for its rings, which start from a house-made 18-karat
gold alloy. Each one is built up meticulously using intricate
designs and patterns. Tiers of enamel and diamond pavé are
added and nestled tightly together, yet each is free to spin
independently. Constructing this ring — actually several
rings in one — requires precision up to one one-hundredth
of a millimeter. Because this attribute is so discreet, the
revolution of each ring takes on the quality of a secret
shared between giver and receiver.
SILKEN GOLD
The famous Wellendorff rope, another trademark of the
manufactory, seems at first to be a sideways take on another
fairy tale. Instead of spinning straw into gold, Wellendorff’s
jewelers spin gold into soft silk. This emblematic chain was
not inspired by a fairy tale, however, but by a real-life act
of love.
In the mid-1970s, Eva Wellendorff expressed her desire
for a gold necklace that would drape as softly as the golden
cords holding back the curtains in her childhood home.
Rather than promise his firstborn to Rumpelstiltskin, her
husband Hanspeter headed to the lab on a quest, returning
after two years with the answer to Eva’s desires. Woven by
hand from incredibly long, fine filaments of 18-karat golden
wire, Wellendorff’s rope drapes like silk, yet shines like
gold. “It’s a piece of jewelry you can identify with your eyes
closed,” explains David McMaster, Director of Wellendorff
North America.
FAMILY OF SOULMATES
The Genuine Delight collection
harnesses today’s consideration of
jewelry as a means of self-expression. Enameled in the wearer’s
choice of any one of seven colors,
each ring has a family of soulmates: a matching rondelle necklace, amulet, bracelet or earrings.
This comprehensive approach to
design allows a woman to build a
jewelry set that is both understated and dramatic. The earrings are
reversible, offering two different
variations on a theme. The Genuine
Delight bracelets and pendants are
ingeniously designed with detachable and reversible elements that
offer nearly endless permutations
of ornament.
This page: Jewelry from the
Genuine Delight Collection
PROMISE OF A LIFETIME
This talk of history, fairy tales, guardian angels and individuality would be meaningless without the exceptional technical prowess that goes into each Wellendorff piece.
Fine 18-karat gold and Top Wesselton diamonds testify
to the jeweler’s exigent standards. The hand-woven golden
rope, the enchanting yet precisely engineered spinning rings
and the kaleidoscopic transparency of the specially developed cold enamel all adhere to pieces that must undergo
demanding quality tests before being adorned with the precious diamond “W.” This promise holds true from one
generation to the next, as each jewel from Wellendorff bears
a lifetime guarantee. ¨
101
ZENITH
Now &
ZENITH
BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
Zenith’s El Primero movement is an icon of modern watchmaking history. Less well-known, but no less important, is the
brand’s past as a maker of timepieces for aviators and
adventurers. In just over a century, Louis Blériot, Leon Morane
and, more recently, Felix Baumgartner, have fulfilled their
destiny and put their names in the history books with a
Zenith instrument on their wrist or in their cockpit.
A
Powered by a
variation of the
original El Primero
movement, the El
Primero 410 comes
in a 42mm stainless
steel case that has
alternating polished
and brushed finishes.
HIGH CALIBER
mong high-end watch aficionados, it is
difficult, if not impossible, to find consensus on the greatest watch model of
the past century. Opinions about
what defines the best timepiece differ wildly, depending on a person’s taste for brands, complications and aesthetics. If, however, the conversation focuses on the greatest watch movement
of the past century, Zenith’s legendary El
Primero is a heavy favorite.
Conceived in 1962 as the world’s first
integrated self-winding chronograph movement, the caliber that would eventually be
christened El Primero — the name means
“the first” in Esperanto — required seven
years of development. By the time it was introduced on January 10, 1969, El Primero had
spawned two groundbreaking calibers: the
original chronograph movement with date, and
a second chronograph movement endowed with
triple date and moon phase functions.
The new El Primero 410 embodies this rich legacy and is powered by Calibre 410 — a
variation of the original El Primero movement that features day, date, month and moon
phase indications. This automatic column-wheel chronograph is now available with a
silver-toned dial in an elegant 42mm case made in either stainless steel or rose gold.
If the El Primero 410 harks back to Zenith’s 1969 heyday, the new El Primero Synopsis
capitalizes on that heritage and gives it a high-tech spin. On the outside, the classic-looking
model bears a distinctive dial opening — a brand signature — while the inside betrays
Zenith’s forward-looking ethos. The watch contains a lever and escapement made of silicon,
an anti-magnetic material that is prized for its ability to reduce the friction inside a movement, thereby lessening the need for lubricants and extending the lifetime of the timepiece.
102
A dial opening on the El Primero
Synopsis provides a glimpse of its
mechanical heart, which beats at
36,000 vibrations per hour.
SUPER FLY
The Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT 1903 underscores
Zenith’s parallel history as one of the earliest makers of instruments for pilots and navigators. A tribute to pioneering
aviators Wilbur and Orville Wright, it’s named for the
year in which the brothers achieved history’s first powered and controlled flight in a heavier-than-air craft on
the sands of North Carolina’s Kitty Hawk beach. The
model is based on a cult timepiece from 1939 that was
fitted on the instrument panels of various aircraft,
including Caudron trainer planes used by the French
Air Force.
At 48mm, the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT 1903
is big but lightweight, thanks to a case made of black
DLC-coated titanium. With its sandblasted black dial and solid
Arabic numerals made of Superluminova, the timepiece is exceptionally readable. Travelers especially will appreciate its second time
zone indicator.
For fans of classic aviator watches, the Pilot Type 20 Extra Special evokes
Zenith’s mid-century glory days. The timepiece comes on a brown-patinated
nubuck strap and its 45mm stainless steel case features a distinctive ratcheted crown typical of vintage pilot’s watches. This oversized feature helped
ensure a tight grip even when trying to manipulate it with bulky pilot’s
gloves. Although it looks the part of a serious pilot’s watch, business travelers and beach bums alike will appreciate its high style, a distinguishing
characteristic of all of Zenith’s elegant timepieces. ¨
Above: A vintage
aeronautical clock
made by Zenith,
circa 1939.
From left:
The Pilot Type 20
Extra Special has a
large crown, a vintage
feature that allowed pilots to
adjust their watches while wearing gloves.
The Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT 1903 comes in a 1,903-piece limited
edition. Its caseback is adorned with a stamped insignia depicting the Wright
brothers on the day of their historic 1903 flight.
103
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1. ANNUAL CALENDAR
a glossary of horological terms
1a 1b
A calendar function that automatically
compensates for the irregular lengths
of months. It requires an annual adjustment — when February changes to March
— hence the name.
2. AUTOMATIC (OR SELF-WINDING)
This complication replaces manual
winding in wristwatches by converting
the wearer’s everyday motions into
stored energy, which powers the mechanical movement. A winding box may
also be used to achieve the same results.
For both methods, the motion spins a rotor connected to the movement, which
generates energy by tightening the
mainspring. It’s also worth noting that
an automatic movement may also be
wound using the crown.
3. BALANCE
Similar to the pendulum in a pendulum
clock, this regulating mechanism ensures
a steady timekeeping rate in wristwatches. Comprised of a balance spring fixed
to a weighted balance wheel, the device
is connected to the mainspring. When the
mainspring releases energy, it swings the
balance wheel in one direction, called an
oscillation, which tightens the balance
spring. When the balance spring releases
this stored energy, it propels the balance
wheel back an equal distance in the opposite direction, transferring energy to
the drivetrain, which powers the watch
movement. The balance’s precise backand-forth motion divides time into equal
parts and is the source of the watch’s signature “tick-tock.”
104
2a 2b
3a 3b
1a. RM 11-02 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Zone
by Richard Mille
1b. Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar by Zenith
2a. Lvcea by Bulgari
2b. Metropolitaine by Parmigiani Fleurier
3a. Portuguese Automatic by IWC
3b. Double Balance Spring assembly by Audemars Piguet
4. BARREL
4. Double-barrel by Audemars Piguet
5. Caliber GP033M0 by Girard-Perregaux
6. Caliber 1700 by Franck Muller
7. Big Bang UNICO Titanium Ceramic by Hublot
8. Bulgari Octo by Bulgari
9. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, Black Edition by H. Moser & Cie.
4 5
This cylindrical receptacle is lined with
teeth around its circumference. It holds
the mainspring, which is attached at one
end to the barrel and at the other to the
arbor (axle) on which the barrel turns.
Winding the watch turns the barrel,
which increases the mainspring’s tension. After winding, the mainspring releases the energy that powers the watch
movement.
5. CADRATURE
The mechanism located directly behind
the dial that rotates the hands.
6. CALIBER (OR CALIBRE)
6 7
Originally referred to the measurement
of the watch movement, but modern usage indicates a type of movement i.e.
men’s caliber, automatic caliber. Watchmakers can use the caliber name and
number to indicate the company, shape
and origin.
7. CERAMIC
8 9
This material is used in watchmaking,
primarily for case production. Valued for
its qualities, ceramic is 30 percent lighter than steel, virtually scratchproof, impervious to rust and smooth to the touch.
8. CHAPTER RING
The numerals or indices on the edge of the
dial that indicate the hours and sometimes minutes.
9. CHATON
A gold ring in which a jewel bearing is
set; typically found only in the finest
movements.
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10. CHRONOGRAPH
A watch with a manually operated stopwatch function that measures intervals
of time.
In addition to the basic chronograph,
there are two other popular versions:
-FLYBACK: allows instant re-set of the
timing function.
-SPLIT-SECOND: allows simultaneous
timing of two events that begin at
the same time but end at different
times.
10a. El Primero 410 by Zenith
10b. Metrographe by Parmigiani Fleurier
11. L.U.C Lunar Big Date by Chopard
12. Classico Amerigo Vespucci by Ulysse Nardin
13. Column wheel by Vacheron Constantin
14. Constant escapement mechanism by Girard-Perregaux
10a 10b
11. CHRONOMETER
A timepiece that is precise enough to be
used as a time standard. Under Swiss regulations, only watches that have been
tested and certified by authorities such as
the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) can be called a chronometer.
12. CLOISONNÉ
11 12
An intricate process used to make enamel
dials. To create designs, thin gold wires
(1mm high) are bent by hand and attached
to the dial to form an outline. Various colors of enamel are applied and then baked
in an oven at around 1,500 F. To create
rich colors, several layers of enamel are
applied and baked.
13. COLUMN WHEEL
Used in high-quality chronograph movements, this toothed wheel coordinates the
chronograph’s start, stop and reset functions. A traditional design, the column
wheel is more labor-intensive to produce
than other styles of chronographs.
14. CONSTANT FORCE
ESCAPEMENT
Ensures the level of energy transferred
from the barrel does not vary in order to
maintain consistent timekeeping.
106
13 14
15 16
17 18
15. COMPLICATION
Any function in a manual-winding watch
or clock additional to the display of
hours, minutes and seconds including:
automatic winding, date, calendar, moon
phase, power reserve and GMT, to name
a few. While there is no formal definition,
a grand complication typically combines
timing, astronomical and striking complications in a single watch. Many grand
complication watches include even more
functions.
16. CÔTES DE GENÈVE
(OR GENEVA STRIPES)
Created by a rose engine lathe, this pattern of undulating waves is used frequently to decorate movements found in
fine timepieces.
17. DEPLOYANT BUCKLE
A tri-folding enclosure affixed to both
ends of a strap or bracelet. When fully
deployed, enough room is created to place
the watch on the wrist. When closed, a
buckle covers the folding mechanism that
secures the watch to the wrist.
19a 19b
18. DIVE WATCH
A timepiece that meets the international safety standards defined by ISO 6425.
Those requirements focus on durability
(water resistant to at least 330 feet),
safety (unidirectional rotating bezel)
and legibility (luminous elements).
19. DUAL TIME ZONE (OR GMT)
15. Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire by Cartier
16. Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine
by Vacheron Constantin
17. Cellini’s exclusive deployant buckles in 18-karat gold
18. Aquatimer Automatic 2000 by IWC
19a. GMT by Greubel Forsey
19b. CDI Pure by Waltham
The terms dual time and GMT are often used interchangeably because they
share the same purpose — to display the
time in two different time zones simultaneously. There is, however, a slight
distinction. A GMT watch displays a
time zone using a 24-hour index that can
be used to determine if it’s day or night
in that location. A dual-time zone watch
uses a 12-hour index, often paired with
a day/night indicator.
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20. ESCAPEMENT
The component of a mechanical watch
that is responsible for the advancement
of the wheel train rotation and the even
passage of time. The escapement in a
watch is usually controlled by the balance wheel.
21. EQUATION OF TIME
20. I llustration of Lange 31 escapement by A. Lange & Söhne
21. 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time by Girard-Perregaux
22. Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF)
23. Geneva Seal logo
24a. TEC1 by Arnold & Son
24b. Infinity Ronde by Franck Muller
20 21
A complication that calculates the difference between the mean solar day
which lasts 24 hours, and the true solar
day, whose length varies from the mean
solar day between +16.24 and -14.22
minutes throughout the year due to the
tilt of the Earth’s axis and the eccentricity of its orbit around the sun.
22. FLEURIER QUALITY
FOUNDATION (FQF)
An independent group based in the village of Fleurier, Switzerland dedicated
to evaluating watches made anywhere
in Switzerland. To be certified by the
FQF, a watch must pass rigorous tests
related to chronometry and durability,
and also exhibit superlative finishing.
22 23
23. GENEVA SEAL
Available exclusively to watch movements made in the City or Canton of
Geneva, this insignia certifies that a movement has satisfied a list of criteria related to both aesthetics and performance.
The Geneva Laboratory of Horology and
Microengineering serves as an impartial
judge that oversees the certification process and is responsible for awarding this
prestigious accolade.
24. GUILLOCHÉ
An engraving technique that results
in very fine lines etched onto a flat, level
surface. Brands often express personality and creativity by decorating dials
and movements with beautifully intricate patterns of guilloché.
108
24a 24b
25 26
25. JEWELS
Precious stones (usually synthetic rubies)
used in a watch movement that act as
bearings for pivots and help reduce friction. Most movements contain at least a
dozen jewels but can feature more.
26. JUMPING HOUR
27a 27b
A watch that advances the time by
“jumping” to the next hour, usually
through a digital display window. Jumping hour watches use mechanical movements with numbers on wheels below
the dial that change as time advances.
The numbers appear to change instantaneously every hour.
27. MANUFACTURE
A term the Swiss watch industry uses to
distinguish a company that produces a
watch from start to finish, instead of
sending it to a finishing shop where the
parts are assembled and calibrated.
28 29
28. MICRO ROTOR
Invented in the 1950s, this smaller version of the traditional oscillating weight
is used to wind the mainspring in some
automatic watches. Its diminutive size
results in a thinner movement.
29. MINUTE REPEATER
25. Caliber 2260 by Vacheron Constantin
26. DB28 Digitale by De Bethune
27a. Chopard Manufacture, Fleurier, Switzerland
27b. Cartier Manufacture, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland
Indicates the time using tonal patterns
created when tiny hammers strike finely
tuned gongs. It chimes the hours, quarter hours and minutes on demand. One
of the most labor-intensive timepieces
to produce, it can take up to a year to
manufacture.
28. RM 033 Extra Flat Automatic by Richard Mille
29. Jazz Minute Repeater by Ulysse Nardin
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30. MOON PHASE
This complication calculates and displays the lunar cycle. Many moon phases
advance once every 24 hours, which
requires that they be adjusted every two
and a half years. More complex models
do not require adjustments for hundreds
of years.
30. Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon by Cartier
31. Ladies Cintrée Curvex by Franck Muller
32. Craftsman applies perlage at the Cartier manufacture
33a. Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième
Perpétuel by Jaeger-LeCoultre
33b. Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Openworked by Vacheron Constantin
34. Double Tourbillon 30º Technique Bi-Color by Greubel Forsey
30 31
31. PAVÉ
Gems set as closely together as possible
in order to conceal a metal base.
32. PERLAGE
(French for “pearling”) A decorative pattern of overlapping swirls sometimes
applied to watch movements. It’s applied
by hand using a spinning drill fixed with
a wooden or rubber polishing bit.
32 33a
33. PERPETUAL CALENDAR
A calendar function that calculates and
displays the date, day, month and leap
year without any adjustment by the user.
This remains true until the year 2100,
when there is no leap year due to the
Gregorian calendar. All watches record
time, the moments that make up a day,
but perpetual calendars keep track of all
of those days. Depending on the watch,
there are many different types of indicators that display the specific day, date
and month.
34. POWER RESERVE
This function measures and displays the
amount of power stored in the mainspring.
110
33b 34
35 36
35. REGULATOR
A clock or wristwatch that displays the
hours, minutes and seconds separately.
Sometimes called a parent clock, manufacturers used to set their timepieces to
precise regulators because the separate
displays were easy to read, making for
exact adjustments.
36. RETROGRADE
37 38
A hand that travels across the dial in an
arc — usually from 90 to 180 degrees —
instead of a 360-degree revolution around
a centrally fixed point. When a retrograde
hand finishes its journey across the dial,
it returns instantaneously to begin a new
measurement. Retrograde hands can indicate date, day or month in perpetual
calendars, but can also be used for hours,
minutes or seconds.
37. ROTOR
(OR OSCILLATING WEIGHT)
39a 39b
Found in a watch with automatic winding, this semicircular weight — powered
by the owner’s physical movements —
rotates to tighten the mainspring, which
stores reserve energy.
38. SILICON (OR SILICIUM)
An element used in watchmaking to create everything from escapement wheels
to balance springs. Prized for its properties, silicon is lightweight, anti-magnetic, resists corrosion and does not require lubrication.
39. SKELETON
35. Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna by A. Lange & Söhne
36. Half Time by Ludovic Ballouard
37. Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième
Perpétuel Jubilee by Jaeger-LeCoultre
38. Caliber UN 106 with silicium hairspring by Ulysse Nardin
39a. Time Pyramid by Arnold & Son
39b. Malte Tourbillon Openworked by Vacheron Constantin
A watch movement that is transparent or
cut out in a decorative manner in order to
reveal all of the movement’s parts. Traditional watch dials display the current
functions of time, date or day for a specific
moment in time. A skeletal dial further
reveals the watch’s movement and how its
mechanism calculates on-going time.
111
CLOCKWISE
40. SONNERIE
There are two kinds of sonnerie complications: petite sonnerie and grande sonnerie. Both chime the time automatically.
The petite sonnerie chimes the number of
hours and quarter hours. It’s unique because it does not repeat the hour chime
when striking the quarter hours. The
grande sonnerie is an extremely complex
mechanism that automatically chimes
both the number of hours and quarter
hours every 15 minutes. It’s also capable
of striking the hours and quarters on
demand. Sometimes combined with a
minute repeater.
40 41a
41b 42a
41. TACHYMETER
A scale that often accompanies a chronograph that measures speed. A tachymeter usually indicates speed in kilometers per hour.
42. TOURBILLON
Sometimes referred to as a ‘whirlwind,’
the tourbillon counteracts the effects of
gravity on the balance and escapement
thus aiding better accuracy. This is
achieved by housing the balance, balance
spring and escapement in a rotating carriage (cage). Invented for the pocket
watch by Abraham-Louis Breguet in
1801, the tourbillon remains a popular
complication.
42b 43
43. TRAIN (OR GOING TRAIN)
A system of toothed wheels and pinions
used to convey energy stored in the mainspring to the escapement.
40. Imperial Blue by Ulysse Nardin
41a. Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph by Audemars Piguet
41b. RM 60-01 Regatta Flyback Chronograph by Richard Mille
42a. Double Tourbillon 30° mechanism by Greubel Forsey
42b. Giga Tourbillon by Franck Muller
43. Illustration of Caliber 380 by Jaeger-LeCoultre
112
44 45
44. TRUE BEAT SECONDS
(OR DEAD SECONDS)
A seconds hand that pauses for each
increment rather than travel in a continuous motion.
45. VIBRATIONS
46a 46b
A measurement that indicates the frequency of semi-oscillations (half turns)
made by the balance wheel; usually
measured in vibrations per hour (vph).
Most high-frequency (or high-beat) mechanical movements vibrate between six
and 10 times a second, or 21,600 vph
and 36,000 vph respectively. (In comparison, a typical quartz movement vibrates
about 235 million times an hour.) While
there are many factors that influence a
watch’s timekeeping accuracy, generally
speaking, the more often a movement vibrates, the more accurate it will be.
46. WATER RESISTANT
47a 47b
A watch designed to prevent water from
entering the case. An atmosphere (atm)
is the measurement used to gauge how
water resistant a watch is. Watches rated 3 atm resist infiltration by water to a
conventional depth of 30 meters; rated 5
atm resists to a conventional depth of 50
meters.
47. WORLD TIME
44. DSTB by Arnold & Son
45. Caliber 4101OR by Audemars Piguet
46a. Calibre de Cartier Diver by Cartier
Refers to a watch that indicates the local
time in major cities around the world,
usually representing each of the 24 time
zones. The names of the cities are typically displayed on an outer ring on the
dial or on the bezel of the watch. ¨
46b. XA Black Matter by Waltham
47a. Pilot Doublematic by Zenith
47b. Duomètre Unique Travel Time by Jaeger-LeCoultre
113
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