Skärgårdsresor 2006

Archipelago
Tours2006
2007
Skärgårdsresor
We make sure the Johanssons at
Harö get their morning paper
It is Waxholmsbolaget who picks up the newly-baked bread at Utö. It is our
boats that deliver the milk to all the people living in the archipelago and it is
we who take the children to school in Ramsö. That is why our boats run every
day, all year round. When the ice is thick or when the distance is too long, we
make sure there is a helicopter instead. That’s the way it has to be. The inhabitants of a living, thriving archipelago have to know that there is always reliable contact with land. That is our task – as given as the salt in the Saltlake.
Thank you!
Last Friday the kids and I took a long trip with
Waxholmsbolaget! We were on our way home and
started our trip at Tynningö. However, she couldn’t
make it all the way as it was very stormy. Instead,
we were picked up by Waxholm I on the evening
tour. A warm thank you to the crew at Tynningö,
who did everything to make sure that we were comfortable. And a warm thank you to Waxholm I who
made sure we got there in the end.
Best regards,
Gustav Hammargren, Hampus and Klara
Home at the skerries
She feels right at home at Långviksskär, Emmy Andersson,
although it’s right out in the outer archipelago. She came
here from Grönskär in 1944, to live her life together with
Sture. To fish, hunt and cultivate, bake, build and mend,
just like people have done at all times in Långviksskär.
– I don’t need great comfort, says Emmy. Although
I do appreciate the fact that we got electricity here a
couple of years ago. Finally, I could install a freezer and
that was something I had longed for, for years.
Apart from that, Emmy can only think of three new
things that she really appreciates. Canned foods, dry milk
and transportation. Modern boats can run in all types of
weather and the helicopter runs three times a week if you
want to go inland to shop. However, with canned foods
and dry milk there is really no great need.
On the way to school
Each morning they gather on board. For the children from Ramsö
and Tynningö, the way to school isn’t very long. They only have a
couple of minutes to sit down and talk to their friends. On the way
home they are not sure to see each other again. There are younger
and older school children and their lessons do not always end at
the same time. To make sure that no one has to wait too long,
there are several tours to choose from, to take them back home
again, along an astoundingly beautiful route.
Strange to hand in the keys after almost 50 years!
It all started in 1961. The young master Krokstedt had just
advanced from his extra job as errand boy at Rosborgs Livs
in Waxholm. This summer he worked as a guide at Vax­
holm’s Citadel and greeted visitors who came off the Waxholm boats.
- There wasn’t exactly a great rush, he says. One day no
one came off the boat at all. So I got on instead.
And so, Nils-Henrik became a good friend of the crew and set off on a
journey which was to last some time.
– After I graduated in 1964, it was time for me to do my military
service and then continue studying. However, I never got the time.
As soon as Nils-Henrik had left the army, he received a phone call
from Waxholmsbolaget. They needed help to count the passengers.
- My statistical brief was a pile of really long receipts, one per day and
boat, remembers Nils-Henrik. I had to work out whether they were dayor half day tickets and where the passengers had got on and off. I got
there in the end – in 1965, Waxholmsbolaget had 240,000 passengers.
Departures, arrivals and everything else that happens!
Showing such talent for numbers, Nils-Henrik was put in charge of the
timetable and later on he became Traffic Manager. He has been through
about 30,000 pages of timetables ever since – and lots of ­memories!
- Like when Captain Ragge Arvenäs called me in the middle of the
night on March 12th, 1978 and dryly reported: ”Nisse, you can cross out
Waxholm from the list”.
An intensive fire had destroyed the flagship of Waxholmsbolaget,
as it was moored by Stavsnäs Winter harbour. All that remained was
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a wreck, and luckily the crew. Everyone had managed to jump ashore
just before the ropes burned and the boat drifted out among the ice.
Lots of water has passed under the bridges since
A lot has changed since then. The 240,000 passengers who Nils-Henrik
counted in 1965 have increased to 1.8 million. Add another 2.1 million
who travel with Djurgårdsfärjan every year.
– Not to mention the technical development. Imagine when the
mobile phones first appeared, says Nils-Henrik. In the old days we had
to call the islands to check whether the boats had passed by. We were
even helped by the garbage guys sometimes! We used the same radio
frequency as Ragn-Sells at Väderholmen in Sollentuna. So when the
Captain of Viggen ran into a problem, he simply called ”Väderholmen
from Viggen! Väderholmen from Viggen! Can you call home to Krokstedt and say that we have run into trouble.”
Viggen is now sold and the fleet has been renewed.
- It’s been especially exciting with the three most recent boats, all
built according to our own design. In the spring of 2004 the first one,
Söderarm was put into traffic, followed by two, that have all been greeted with open arms both by crew and our passengers.
Almost everyone here has a gold watch!
On June 30th, Nils-Henrik Krokstedt will retire. Of course it will feel
a bit strange after all these years.
- However, I am not alone. Almost everyone at Waxholmsbolaget
have earned a gold watch. There is so much happening here, the archipelago is a great place not to mention all the people. The crew, summer
guests, enterprising islanders and stubborn old men out there. After
50 years together, we are all friends…
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Mini-holidays,
from
SEK 130
The Stockholm archipelago is like a foreign country. No more than a few sea
miles from the city, yet so completely different, far away from everyday life.
Often that is precisely what we all need – a mini-holiday away from home.
Look through this brochure, full of favourite spots to be explored. You’ll find
some of our most loved excursions and destinations, including sandy shores and
smooth rocks, villages, inns and homely hostels. Step on board and come along.
Our white archipelago boats await you by Strömkajen, as always.
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The steamboat season starts already in May with daily tours all the
way up until the middle of September. The times apply for the period
17th June until the 19th August. Other times are available from our web
site. Tickets are sold on board and cannot be booked in advance.
However, if you do request a table in the dining hall, please make
reservations , see below.
LUNCH TOURS
Monday-Friday S/S Storskär leaves Stockholm att noon for a lunch
tour in the inner archipelago. We return at 3.30 p.m.
A World heritage at sea!
Nowhere else in the world will you find as wellpreserved
steamships, running in regular traffic and nowhere else
are they as loved as in the Stockholm archipelago.
Nowadays they only sail the finest routes – and only in
summer, which they well deserve at this admirable age.
Welcome on board for a steamboat ride. We still
serve the classical Steamboat Beef with onion, accom­
panied by a splendid view!
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Saturdays at 6.30 p.m. S/S Storskär leaves for Vaxholm and Rindö. We
are back in Stockholm at 10.15 p.m.
TABLE RESERVATIONS
S/S Storskär, S/S Norrskär och S/S Blidösund tel. 08-24 30 90.
Tour information, tel. 08-679 58 30.
ALL DAY TOURS
Monday-Friday at 11.00 a.m. S/S Norrskär leaves for Gällnö and Grinda
(see page 31 and 34). We are back in Stockholm by 5.20 p.m.
Saturdays. S/S Storskär leaves via Vaxholm, to Väsbystrand at Ljusterö
(see page 30). It gets back at 5.10 p.m.
Saturday-Sunday at 10.30 a.m. S/S Norrskär leaves to Sandhamn (see
page 33). The boat gets back into Stockholm at 7.45 p.m.
Sundays. S/S Blidösund leaves for Ängsö National­park (see page 29) or
for Svartlöga (see page 28). Tour information and reservations can be
made at tel. 08-24 30 90.
Sundays at 11.30 a.m. S/S Storskär leaves for Husarö. On the way, you
can get off in Vaxholm (see page 32), at Grinda (page 31) or Finnhamn
(page 30). We get back at 7.10 p.m.
EVENING TOURS
Monday-Friday 4.45 p.m. is when S/S Storskär’s popular dinner tours
leave. We are back in Stockholm at 10.15 p.m.
Monday-Friday at 6.15 p.m. S/S Norrskär make a fine evening tour to
Vaxholm. The tour returns to Stockholm at 9.50 p.m.
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Make a day trip into the archipelago and let your day out at sea include
a great lunch at a proper archipelago inn. Buy tickets on board. For tour
information, please call 08-679 58 30.
LUNCH TOUR TO NÄMDÖ KÖK & BAR
Take the boat from Stockholm or Saltsjöbaden and buy tickets that
include a lunch at Nämdö Kök & Bar by Solviks jetty (see page 35).
If you would rather eat outdoors, they will pack your lunch in a basket
for you. The price includes lunch and a boat trip Stockholm/Saltsjö­
baden-Nämdö return SEK 210/person.
FISHLUNCH AT WIKSTRÖMS IN MÖJA
Möja’s best fishermen await you with lunch at Wikström’s Fisk in
Ramsmora. Take the morning boat and make a full day of it in Möja
(see page 33). The price for lunch and boat trip Stockholm-Möja return
is SEK 300/person.
SEK 280/person including lunch and the boat trip there and back.
If you would like to combine a longer trip there with a quicker trip
back, (or vice versa) you leave from Stockholm and go home via Årsta
Havsbad alter­natively Nynäs­hamn. Lunch and the boat trip return is
then SEK 235/person.
The quickest way to Utö and Ålö is via Årsta Havsbad and Nynäs­
hamn respectively. If you choose these boat trips there and back the
cost for the lunch package is SEK 190/per­son including the boat trip
there and back.
FULL DAY WITH LUNCH AT ORNÖ
Make a day trip to one of the southern archipelago’s largest and most
densly populated islands (see page 36) with lunch at Ornö Krog &
Veranda. Price incl. lunch and boat trip Stockholm – Ornö Church return
is SEK 290 person.
LUNCH WITH A SWIM IN FINNHAMN
Come along to Finnhamn and enjoy a few of the archipelago’s finest
rocks for swimming (see page 30). Lunch is served at the cosy Finn­
hamn’s Café Krog. The price includes lunch and boat trip StockholmFinnhamn return SEK 300/person.
The place to be
In the old days, there were plenty of inns in the archipelago, where fisher­
men and farmers would come for a break after exhausting rowing trips
into Stockholm. Today, the situation is reverse. The inns are still aplenty
and cosy, but now it’s the city folk who gather around the tables to enjoy
the delicacies of the archipelago.
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Read more about the archipelago inns on page 40.
LUNCH AT UTÖ OR ÅLÖ
Make a day trip to Utö/Ålö (see page 35). A wonderful lunch awaits you,
either at Värdshuset or at Dannekrogen in Utö, or in BåtsHaket at Ålö.
The boats for Utö leave from Stockholm and Årsta Havsbad,
­whereas the tours to Ålö leave from Nynäshamn. The boat trip between
Stockholm and Utö takes the longest time. If you choose to go that
route both there and back, it will be a full day trip which costs
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Most of Waxholmsbolaget’s routes start at Strömkajen in Stockholm, but
some also depart from Vaxholm and Stavsnäs. From here you can make
day trips or longer trips. Regardless of your choice, we recommend you
get Waxholmsbolaget’s Boat Hiker’s Pass. Together with the pass you will
receive a map with three nice trips in various parts of the archipelago.
Follow them in detail or just ”pick the cherries on the cake”.
The Northern Fairway
You travel via Vaxholm through Roslagen. Half way there, the fairway
parts and you can choose between classic destinations like Fejan, Idö and
Arholma in the north, or Saltkråkorna’s Norröra, Rödlöga and Svartlöga
out in the outer parts of the archipelago.
The Mid Fairway
This is where the archipelago is widest, with an abundance of islands and
boat tours. From Stockholm and Vaxholm you can reach islands like Grinda, Gällnö, Möja, Finnhamn and Ingmarsö. If you are looking for even
more adventure, why not hop between the different tours and boats using
the boat hikers’ rowing boats.
Hiking!
To make it easy for you if you wish to see a bit more of the archipelago,
we have collected all the information you need in a Boat Hiker’s Kit. It
includes tips on where to go and where to stay over, as well as a map
with suggestions for nice trips. Welcome on board an adventure! With
Waxholmsbolaget’s Boat Hiker’s Pass you can travel on all our boats as
much as you like during five days.
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The Southern Fairway
Along the Southern Fairway, the open sea is never far away. On the larger
bays, towards well-known destinations like Nåttarö, Rånö, Utö, Fjärdlång,
Ornö and Strindberg’s Kymmendö, you can feel the swell.
Boat hiking for a protected archipelago environment
Boat hiking is a caring form of tourism. It promotes a living
archipelago. Five Swedish crowns of what you pay for your
Boat Hiker’s Pass go towards Skärgårdsstiftelsen’s project
”Levande Skärgårdsnatur”, aimed at surveillance and protection of the unique flora and fauna in the archipelago.
The Boat Hiker’s Pass
• The Boat Hiker’s Pass costs SEK 300 and is valid for 5 days on all
our boats. If you add a little more, it is also valid on board the
Cinderella boats.
• The pass is valid as from your first boat trip. That means you can
purchase it well in advance and plan your trip with the help of all
the information you receive when you get the pass.
• If you already have a 30-day travel pass with SL, you can buy
Waxholms­bolaget’s Additional Pass for SEK 490. It is valid for
30 days on board all our boats, as long as your SL Pass is valid.
• You can also buy a Cash Card which you can load with cash and use
as payment on every trip. The advantage is that you are then given
a 25 % discount. You pay SEK 750 and we load it with SEK 1000.
• Observe that all passes and cards must be activated in the ticket
machines on board the boat on every trip. The machine will give you
a ticket which you hand over when you disembark.
.• The first time you buy one of these cards you pay a deposit of SEK
40. The card contains a charge able chip that should not be put in
the waste. Once you are done with the card, hand it back to us and
we will refund you.
• All passes, cards and all information is available at our terminals at
Strömkajen i Stockholm, in Stavsnäs and Vaxholm. The Boat Hiker’s
Card is also sold at Sverigehuset in Kungsträdgården and at several
tourist agencies in the archipelago.
More information and tour information, tel. 08-679 58 30,
www.waxholmsbolaget.se
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A beautiful day in
the archipelago
There are so many beautiful things to see
and so much fun to do in the archipelago;
it’s just a question of finding your way.
Here we have gathered some of the activities and places that we like the best, on a
sunny day by the sea. For that is one thing
you can be certain of – the sun shines
more out here than it does in the city.
Art and handicrafts in the archipelago
Creativity is strong out here in the archipelago. There are lots of craftsmen and women and artists who are inspired by the unique archipelago
landscape, both when it comes to designs and materials, such as wood,
leather, wool and clay.
When the summer comes, many open their doors to their studios
and workshops and you are welcome to visit. Also, there are plenty of
galleries and museums open to the public. The places listed here are
only a few examples, so keep your eye open for more. You will see examples of archipelago art all around.
Arholma Gallery, arts and crafts in Arholma båk, summer hours 1-5 p.m.
(except Fridays). Group bookings tel. 0176-562 20.
Vaxholm Here you will find lots of galleries and all summer archipelago
crafts are also for sale in the harbour.
Möja The Archipelago Gallery in Möja school in Berg, open in July,
tel. 070-678 55 34, 070-590 79 17.
Svartsö Exhibitions in Bygdegården in Ahlsvik, all summer. Tourist info,
tel. 08-542 473 25.
Nämdö Local museum in Sand, archipelago crafts for sale and coffee
shop.
Ornö Museum in Kyrkviken with new, excellent exhibitions during summer, tel. 08-501 580 00. Don’t miss the restaurant Ornö Krog & Veranda
with a gallery. Tel. 08-501 560 00.
Landsort Sculpture exhibitions by Landsort’s lighthouse.
Visit www.landsort.com Kulturbryggan.
And the fish are biting!
You can catch the largest salmons in the world in the Stockholm archipelago. There is plenty of pike-perch, whitefish and lots of herring. With
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a little luck you can even hope to catch flat-fish, cod or why not an eel?
If you really want to be sure to catch some fish, you can use a fishing guide. They know the archipelago better than most people and thay
know where the fish is. Several of them offer half- or full day tours,
including boat, equipment and life vest/overalls. Find out more at:
www.fiske.nu
Deep sea diving
Stockholm’s archipelago has represented important fairways for cen­
turies. Therefore, there are plenty of wrecks as living proof of previous
generations of sea traffic. Why not come along for a “test dive”? There
are several companies to choose from, such as, for example:
www.nocdyk.com
www.dragbolaget.nu
www.nyndyk.se
Archipelago flights
How about flying across the islands and skerries? The Stockholm archipelago is astoundingly beautiful from above. You can take off and land for
a lunch both on water and land with an amphibian plane.
www.viamaresjoflyg.se
Ice skating
Many find that the archipelago is at its best during the winter. Living
proof of that fact is that you will see lots of ice skaters on board our
boats during sunny winter days. Out in the archipelago they find everything from open bays to small lakes. However, be careful. The ice in
the archipelago can be treacherous and can change quickly from one
hour to the next, metre by metre.
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The reason for this is that ice made of salty water is weaker than that
made of water which isn’t salty. Also, it is often current as the water level
in the archipelago varies. Use your ice stick frequently. The hard, seethrough core ice needs to be at least 10 cm:s thick. The greyish-white ice
needs to be even thicker as it is not as strong.
Your best safety gears is in fact your fellow companions. Therefore,
we recommend a guided tour if you are not sure about which ice is good
enough. Both Friluftsfrämjandet and Friskis & Svettis arrange tours.
www.frilufts.se
www.sthlm.friskissvettis.se
Bathing
It might seem odd, but all islands are not as suitable for swimming. Some­
times the coastline is blocked by private houses, sometimes the right
spots are just too hard to find. Below is a list of recommended sights for
swimming during a sunny day by the sea.
Utö On the outer side of Persholmen, right by Gruvbryggan, you will
find fine smooth rocks. On the other side of the island, by Rävstavik there
are also rocks to swim from, but they are a bit steeper. For the children,
there is a fine sandy beach just north of Gruvbryggan. However, Ålö
­Storsand is probably the prettiest of them all. It is a bit of a way to go,
but you can rent a bike by Gruvbryggan. See page 35.
Nåttarö Stora Sand on the outside of Nåttarö is one of the archipelago’s
largest and finest sandy beaches. Right at the north is ­Östermarsfladen,
a popular place for families with children as there is both sand and rocks.
See page 38.
Sandhamn Here you will find sandy beaches both here and there.
The most popular is Trouville and the northern parts of the island.
See page 31.
Svartlöga The island right out at sea with both sandy beaches and rocks
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right by the steamboat jetty. See page 28.
Finnhamn Here you will find rocks to swim from all over the place, as
well as protected bays and open spaces from where you can see for
miles. You can rent a boat and row out to one of the islets around. See
page 30.
Landsort Wild, rocks to swim from with a view over the open seas.
A bit daring for the youngest perhaps, but very, very beautiful. See
page 39.
Fjärdlång An island surrounded by rocks. You can go swimming ­
almost everywhere here. See page 36.
Grinda Grinda too is a friendly place for children. It’s green and lush
with both rocks and sandy beaches. See page 31.
Själbottna A protected, beautiful island just south of Yxlan with
­sheltered bays and smooth rocks.
Tyresö Trinntorpsbadet by Tyresö brygga is a great place for the young
ones with a sandy beach, café and restaurant nearby. Just an hours
boat ride from Stockholm.
Canoeing and kayaking
The barren landscape of the archipelago has lots to offer if you want to
enjoy the surroundings from a canoe or kayak. If you are a beginner,
the relatively protected inner- and middle archipelago is best, around
Vaxholm, Ljusterö, Möja, Nämdö and Runmarö. If you are more experien­
ced, try the barren outer archipelago around Bullerö, Gillöga, Långviksskär, Röder, Stora and Lilla Nassa as well as Söderarm.
If you do not wish to set out on your own, there are guided tours
including food, such as for example:
www.kanotguiden.com/sthlm
www.kajak-uteliv.com
www.aventyrsresor.se/kajakerbjudande/kajakfront.htm
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Bed & Breakfast
Why be in such a hurry to get home? Rent a cottage and stay overnight instead. If you
are lucky, your host will treat you to breakfast in the morning. The Bed & Breakfast
places have become quiet frequent with around 90 archipelago families renting out
basic rooms or cottages including breakfast. There are of course also great archipelago
inns and lots of comfortable hostels. Indeed, there’s no need at all to hurry home!
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Read more about Bed & Breakfast as well as hotels, hostels and cottages on p. 42-44.
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Arholma
Stockholm – Arholma, SEK 120 one way.
Arholma is the last outpost before the open
sea. Which is why the people of Arholma
used to make their living from the boat
traffic. In order to boast their fortunes, the
Arholma population built pompous villas
all around the island, and they would soon
be very useful. In 1862 the islanders’ pilot
boat duty was abolished and thereby an
important source of income went lost. The
beautiful houses were then rebuilt as inns and Arholma transformed
into the Stockholmers’ own paradise of inns.
Arholma båk, built in 1768, was later turned into a pilot boat
tower and optical telegraph. Today it houses a gallery, arts and crafts
(open 1-5 p.m., not on Fridays). Group reservations, tel. 0176-561 67.
Another place well worth a visit is Österhamn, a 19th century boat
har­bour, as well as Simesgården and the typical “Roslags” farm BullAugusts gård.
Arholma Dancing & Inn, south of Norra Bryggan, 0176-560 87. Jetty
café by Norra bryggan, 070-735 62 76.
Hostel at Bull-Augusts gård, 0176-560 18. Camping. Arholma Nord
Hostel and Café, tel. 070-654 20 81.
Store, kiosk, post office, bikes for rent, 0176-560 12. Guest jetty,
sauna and TC. Caretaker 0708-27 53 61. Info at www.norrtalje.nu
SL-bus from Östra Station to Simpnäs jetty. Boat to Arholma. Summertime, there is also a boat from Stockholm, dep. Mon–Fri 10.00 a.m.,
Sat-Sun 8.45 a.m. Travel time approx. 4 h. Information 08-679 58 30.
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Fejan
Lidö
Stockholm – Fejan,
Stockholm – Lidö,
SEK 120 one way.
SEK 110 one way.
Fejan has an extraordinary history, filled
with war, illness –
and song. In the 19th
century, when cholera swept over Europe, Fejan was a
quarantine station.
There was, however, nothing wrong with the entertainment. Among the
sick patients was the musical group Orphei Drängar, who after a concert visit with the Russian Tsar, had been put under observation on the
island for a period of time.
Later on, the island became a refugee camp for Baltic refugees who
escaped across the Baltic Sea during the second world war. They travelled in fragile boats and were taken into Fejan, where the epidemic hospital was turned into an arrival terminal. Today the old hospital hosts a
hostel, while the old boat house and the corpse storage has become
one of the archipelago’s most popular restaurants!
The history of Lidö stretches
all the way back to the
middle ages. That is ”ResareBengt” Oxenstierna built
a large manor house here,
which was destroyed by the
Russians in 1719. Lidö Säteri
was then built on top of the foundation of the old building. Today it
houses a renowned and awarded archipelago restaurant and inn. There
is also a hostel and small cottages to rent.
Fejans Krog in the boat house, 0176-430 42.
Hostel, camping facilities, sauna, 0176-430 31.
Small store, smokery for fish, canoes for rent. Info at www.fejan.se
SL-bus from Östra Station to Räfsnäs jetty, then boat. Summertime,
there is also a boat from Stockholm, departing Mon–Fri at 10.00 a.m.,
Sat–Sun 8.45 a.m. Travel time approx. 3.5 h. Information 08-679 58 30.
Further in to the island you will find Lidö Gård, a small-scale eco­
logical farm with a small farm store in the guest harbour. Apart from
that, Lidö is largely unpopulated with some of the archipelago’s finest
forests intact. The island is owned by Skärgårdsstiftelsen.
Lidö Krog in the renowned manor with a view over the steamboat
jetty, tel. 0176-404 98.
Lidö Värdshus with rooms in the manor and small cottages to rent,
tel.0176-404 99. Hostel, tel. 0176-400 63. Camping by Österhamn.
Guest harbour. Farm store, café and kiosk with newly-baked bread.
Kayaks and rowing boats to rent, tel. 070-377 88 91.
SL-bus from Östra Station to Räfsnäs jetty, ten boat, all year round.
Summertime the boat also leaves from Stockholm, Mon-Fri at 10.00
a-m., Sat-Sun at 8.45 a.m. , change boats at Fejan. Travelling time approx. 4 hrs. For more information, call tel. 08-679 58 30.
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Svartlöga
Rödlöga
Ängsö Nationalpark
Stockholm – Svartlöga,
Stockholm – Rödlöga,
SEK 120 one way.
Stockholm – Ängsö, SEK 100 one way.
SEK 120 one way.
Svartlöga rests like a black
line on the ­horizon, hence
”Svart” which means black.
­Despite the fact that we are
now far out at sea, there have
been several permanent residents here as late as the
1960’s. People lived off fishing
and farming, but also from
hunting. Svartlöga was one of
the few islands that therefore
survived the ravages of the Russians in 1719. The Russian boats simply ran aground and were fiercely shot at by the islanders who were
well-experienced seal hunters.
The landscape at Svartlöga is varied with excellent opportunities for
swimming and walking. From the jetty in the north there is a road
approximately 1.5 km straight across the island with old fishing huts,
a chapel from 1916 and the world’s smallest post office.
Rödlöga is the furthest to
the east and shimmers in red
granite. This is as far as you
can get out to sea with regular
traffic. At Rödlöga there is a
small village, but no roads,
just winding paths through
wild rose bushes. The islands
used to be inhabited by fishing
farmers already during the
King Gustav Vasa’s era. Today it
is only populated by sea farers,
as there are lots of good harbours and swimming here.
The summer store, Handelsboden, is run by summer guests. They
were given it by the old shopkeeper Gösta Söderman. In his time the
range offered was limited, but they say he ran an unofficial wine and
liquor store as well, although with a limited selection.
Good camping.
Telephone, water pump, dustbins in the village, other­wise little
service. Info 0176-719 90, www.norrtalje.se
Bus from Östra Station till Furusund, then boat approx. 1.5 h. Summertime, there is also a boat from Stockholm departing Mon–Fri 8.45
a.m., Fri–Sat 8.15 a.m., Sun 8.45 a.m. Travel time approx. 3.5 h.
Summer café by Rödlögaboden, 0176-870 60.
Summer store, 0176-870 60. Telephone, water pump, dustbins, no
electricity. Info 0176-719 90, www.norrtalje.se
Bus from Östra Station to Furusund, then boat approx. 1.5 h. Summertime there is also a boat from Stockholm, dep. Mon–Thu 8.45 a.m.,
Fri-Sat 8.15 a.m., Sun 8.45 a.m. Travel time approx. 4 h.
28
Ängsö hosts most of the magnificent land­scape and cultural
history of Roslagen. Maybe
that is why it was made the
first national park of Sweden,
already in 1909. Thereby
Ängsö is protected and we can
enjoy a piece of ancient agricultural landscape with hayfields and pastures. There are
plenty of good spots for
swimming and a network of
walking paths. The paths are
marked and easy to follow,
even if you have a pram or are
disabled. The bird life here is
rich; if you are lucky you
might even catch a glimpse of
a white-tailed eagle or fish hawk. Don’t miss a visit to The Nature
Room (Naturrummet) with its fine little exhibition.
Nature Room with exhibition. Dustbins. Caretaker, 0176-26 20 23.
Boat from Stockholm, summertime, departure Mon–Thu 8.45 a.m.,
Fri-Sat 8.15 a.m. Travel time approx. 2 h. Boat trips also from the nearby Östanå, travel time approx. 30 min. Information 08-679 58 30.
Siaröfortet
Stockholm – Siaröfortet,
SEK 80 one way.
Here but no further, is as far as
the Russians were allowed. This
was the idea behind the fort,
Siaröfortet, which was built after
the First World War, right in the
middle of the fairway between
Vaxholm and Furusund. Today,
Siaröfortet is open to visitors and
restored to its former glory, with
canons and shooting shields
above ground and a manoeuvre
centre, kitchen and sleeping
quarters inside the rock. However,
you do not need to be especially interested in the war history to enjoy
being here. The beauti­ful island offers both fishing and swimming
opportunities, as well as boat rentals. Or why not enjoy the woodfire
sauna before it’s time for a cup of coffee in the hostel’s summer café.
Summer café by the hostel, 08-24 30 90.
Hostel in the old sleeping quarters, 08-24 30 90.
Food store, canoe rental, sauna, www.blidosundsbolaget.se
Boat from Stockholm, summer time dep. Mon–Thu 8.45 and 10.00
a.m., Fri 8.15 and 10.00 a.m., Sat 8.15, 8.45 a.m., Sun 8.45 a.m. Travel
time just under 2 h. Boat trips also from Östanå.
29
Ljusterö
Finnhamn
Grinda
Stockholm – Linanäs,
Stockholm – Finnhamn,
Stockholm – Grinda,
SEK 80 one way.
SEK 120 one way.
SEK 80 one way.
The northern and southern
part of Ljusterö used to be
separated, but in due time
they have grown together
to one of the largest islands in the middle archipelago, presenting a
genuine atmosphere and environment with excellent bays for swimming. The island early once became a refuge for the wealthy people
from Stockholm. Engström, Heidenstam and Liljefors are therefore
only a few of the well-known artists and famous people who liked
visiting Ljusterö during the summers.
Today, lots of people have settled here all year round. This means
that the service and range of activities is quite impressive. If you
arrive by boat, we suggest that you aim for Linanäs brygga. Here you
will find an inn, a restaurant and a café as well as a store and great
places to go swimming.
The name Finnhamn stems from the
time when Finnish ships on their
way to Stockholm used to berth
here. Nowadays, Finnhamn is the
name of a whole group of islands,
which have grown together into a
magnificently beautiful archipelago
landscape. You can wander freely along paths and small roads or rent
a rowing boat and row out to one of the islands nearby.
If you happen to pass by Idholmens gård, we recommend a visit to
the farm store. The animals and the farm are shown on request. And if
you wish to stay the night, perhaps the old coal keeper Rönström’s
fabulous summer villa might suit you? Today the house is a hostel, but
the chimney from his yacht still stands on the view point as a monument over a long-gone era of the archipelago.
The lushness and proximity to
Stockholm has made Grinda
somewhat of the Stock­
holmers’ own bathing paradise. As the island is owned by
Skärgårdsstiftelsen you have free access almost everywhere on the
island. There are plenty of good sandy beaches and rocks for swimming at Grinda. Fishing is good too. You can go fishing both from
land or rent a boat if you want to try your luck a bit further out.
A beautiful, yellow Jugend-style villa is located on a height with a
view over the water. This was once the summer home of Circuit judge
Santesson. Today it hosts Grinda Wärdshus with a restaurant, bar and
cosy rooms for the guests. Enjoy a good lunch here or why not dinner,
rounded off in the bar, in the evening.
Rastalina Sjökrog (Inn) by Linanäs, 08-542 480 08. Linanäs Skeppskrog, 08-542 419 04.
Pensionat Rastaborg by Linanäs, 08-542 402 26. Cottages to rent,
08-540 815 10.
Stores, pharmaceuticals and alcohol can be ordered, post, bakery,
petrol and guest harbour. Information Österåker, 08-540 815 10.
In summer boats fr Stockholm depart Mon-Fri 10.00 a.m., 2 p.m. as
well as classic steamboat trips at 4.45 p.m. Sat at 9.45 and 11.00 a.m.
(steamboat) Sun, 9.00 and 11.00 a.m.. Travel time 2 h.
Finnhamns Café Krog, weekends Easter–Sep, daily June–Aug,
see lunch offer, page 17, 08-542 464 04.
The largest hostel in the archipelago, cottages and camping,
08-542 462 12.
Rowing boats to rent, shower and sauna at the hostel,
08-542 462 12. Summer store, 08-542 462 07. Farm store at Id­
holmens gård, 08-542 462 42. Information at www.finnhamn.se
Boat from Stockholm. Summertime dep. Mon–Fri 8.30, 11.30 a.m.,
Sat 8.30, noon, Sun 8.30, 11.30 a.m. Morning tour takes approx. 2.5 h.
Grinda Wärdshus, restaurant and pub, www.grindawardshus.se.
Framfickan, restaurant by the water. Grinda Café. Tel 08-542 494 91.
Grinda Wärdshus, see above. Grinda Hostel and cottages for rent by
the southern jetty, camping by the northern jetty, 08-542 490 72 (9–11
a.m. and 1-3 p.m.), www.grinda.nu
Grinda Lanthandel, food store, 08-542 490 28. Sauna, boats and
bikes to rent for cottage visitors, 08-542 490 72
Summertime: Frequent departures from Stockholm, from 8.00 a.m.
to lunch time. Travel time approx. 1.5 h. Info 08-679 58 30.
30
31
Vaxholm
Sandhamn
Möja
Stockholm – Vaxholm,
Stockholm – Sandhamn,
SEK 135 one way, with steamboat SEK 120 one way.
Stockholm – Möja, SEK 120 one way.
SEK 65 one way.
Vaxholm is the capital of
the archipelago. Vaxholm
grew up around the mighty
Vasaborgen on the island
Vaxholmen. It was the state,
Kronan, who owned the grounds and for a long time one could not
build anything but wooden buildings here. The idea was that everything should burn down quickly in the event of a siege.
However, that luckily never happened. With the arrival of the steamboats, Vaxholm instead became the Stockholmers’ own summer paradise in the 19th century and still remains one of our favourite destinations. All summer long arts and crafts are for sale by the harbour. On
June 7th one celebrates The Archipelago Day and on June 22th the traditional Swedish Midsummer. On August 18th the villagers arrange an
archipelago market. Boats for the fort leave from Vaxholm and Stockholm alike. Here you can view the prison and exhibitions with uniforms
and armery. There’s even a summer bistro here.
Waxholms Hotel, 08-541 301 50. Hamnkrogen, 08-541 320 39.
Melanders Fisk, 08-541 334 66. Magasinet, 08-541 325 00. Cafés.
Kastellet’s summer bistro 070-610 50 23.
Hotel, bed & breakfast, private room, call the ­Tourist Agency.
Full service. Tourist information 08-541 314 80, www.vaxholm.se
Frequent boat trips from Stockholm all year round. Travel time
approx. 1 h. Information 08-679 58 30.
32
The location, right by the open
seas, made Sandön an impor­
tant junction for the shipping already during the 18th century. The small
village with pilot boats and customs grew rapidly. And when the steam­
boats started arriving, the summer visitors came too.
During the summer, lots of people mingle here among the yachts,
restaurants and shops. You will find the custom’s house here, designed
by the famous royal architect, Carl Hårleman, as well as the cook shack
which now hosts the old homestead museum. Take a walk, enjoy a beer
at the inn or try the renowned ”sailors’ buns” at the local bakery. On
July 2rd is the start of “Gotland Runt”, and on July 25th is the Sandhamn
Regatta.
Sandhamns Värdshus, 08-571 530 51. Seglarhotellet with the Skärgårdsbistro and Alma Bar, 08-574 504 00. Dykarbaren, 08-571 535 54.
Sands Café, 08-571 530 20. Sandhamns Deli, 08-571 530 16.
Seglarhotellet, see above. Sands Hotell, 08-571 530 20. Bed &
Breakfast, see Sandhamns Värdshus.
Food store and post office all year round. Bakery, shops, tennis,
swimming pool, mini golf. Tourist information 08-571 530 00.
Boat fr Stavsnäs all year round (SL-bus fr Slussen). Summertime
boat also fr Stockholm; dep. Strandvägen daily at 9.30 a.m.; dep.
Strömkajen with steamboat Sat–Sun 10.30 a.m. Travel time from Stockholm 2.5–3.5 h, approx. 1 h from Stavsnäs. Info 08-679 58 30.
In the old days, fishing was essential for
the islanders at Möja. In August they rowed out to the fishing point in the outer
archipelago and didn’t return until January.
Today, there is only one professional fisherman left. Instead the islanders run their own companies within arts
and crafts, shipyards and IT – as well as tourism, of course. The summer
guests are vital, but Möja will never turn into a regular tourist trap.
That is the fine thing about this island, it will always remain genuine.
Möja is excellent for bike rides and walks, but it isn’t really an island
for swimming. The main village is Berg with the restaurant, Möja Krog,
the church, old homestead museum, the cinema and the popular
dance pavilion. On July 7th it’s time for the annual market, Möja
Marknad. The archipelago gallery in Möja school in Berg stays open in
July, 070-678 55 34.
Möja Restaurant by Bergs jetty, 08-571 641 85. Wikströms Fisk in
Rams­mora, see lunch offer page 17, 08-571 641 70. The Pizza bus in
Berg, 0702-11 31 17.
Möja Gästhem in Långvik, 08-571 641 07. Fäfrubackens Pensionat in
Berg 08-10 02 21, cottages and B&Bt via the Tourist info, see below.
Food stores, bakery, post office, crafts from the archipelago and
smoked fish. Summertime bikes, kayaks and sauna raft for rent. Guide
and fishing tours. Tourist info 08-571 640 53, www.mojaturistinfo.se
Boat fr Stockholm or Sollenkroka (connecting SL-bus fr Slussen).
Departs fr Stockholm summer time, Mon–Fri 8.00, 10.30 a.m., Sat 8.00,
8.30 a.m., Sun 8.45 a.m., 12.30 p.m. Travel time approx. 3 h.
33
Gällnö
Svartsö
Stockholm – Gällnö,
SEK 100 one way.
Stockholm – Svartsö,
Stockholm – Nämdö,
Stockholm – Utö,
SEK 100 one way.
SEK 100 one way.
SEK 120 one way.
The landscape at Svartsö
varies from open agricultural land to untouched
forests and crystal-clear
lakes. Take a walk or rather
a bike trip between the
island’s four jetties, Ahlsvik, Skälvik, Söderboudd
and Norra Svartsö.
By Ahlsvik’s jetty there is a beach and a restaurant, a store and
Svartsö’s old missionary house, today the island’s old homestead museum. By Skälvik’s jetty there is the school and the library. You will also
find the inn here, Svartsö Herrgårdspensionat with good food and basic
rooms, just the way it should be at an old, traditional archipelago inn.
On July 21th, there will be an arts and crafts day with music. The day
after, the week ends in style with The Swine Rowing Tournament.
Strindberg, Bellman and
Taube have all praised the
beautiful Nämdöskärgården,
from Nämdö and all the way
out to the outer archipelago.
Nämdö is a large island and
we embark at several jetties.
One of the first is Östanvik with Östanviks gård, a living archipelago
farm from the 16th century. From here two nature and cultural paths
lead to several of Nämdö’s sights.
The next jetty is Solvik with the restaurant, store and guest harbour.
You are bound to meet Kerstin here too, as she runs both the store
and the bar.By Sands jetty right nearby you can join the celebrations
of the Nämdö Day on July 28th. The old homestead museum in the old
school sells arts and crafts and serves coffee.
Utö Iron mine was the
first one of its kind in
Sweden when it opened
in the 12th century and
it soon became one of
the most important mines, with intensive mining for more than 700
years. Today the mine has been filled in, but the nifty Utö-inhabitants
are still around. They make sure the island stays alive and kicking all
year round. The summers are especially lively. At that time the harbour is full of boats and the huts down by Gruvbryggan open up.
Take a tour to the mining museum and the workers’ residences
along Lurgatan. Don’t miss the mill from 1791; the machinery is still
in place. Go swimming at Persholmen by Gruvbryggan and by Rävstavik or why not take a bike tour to Ålö Storsand. From Ålö you can
continue with boat towards Rånö, Nåttarö and Nynäshamn.
Nämdö Bar & Café in Solvik, see lunch offer page 17, picnic baskets, www.gunslivs.se, 08-571 560 17. Coffee is served in Hembygdsmuseet at Sand.
Cottages, room with breakfast and camping sites. Info, see below.
Foods, arts and crafts, cottage and bikes for rent. Info in Solvik, 08571 560 17 and Östanviks gård, 08-571 564 18. www.namdo.nu
Summertime boats fr Stockholm, dep. Mon–Sat 8.45 a.m., change
in Saltsjöbaden. Travel time approx. 3 h. Boat all year round fr Stavsnäs
­(connecting SL-bus). Travel time 1 hour. Information 08-679 58 30.
Utö Värdshus 08-504 203 00, Dannekrogen with café 08-501 570 79,
Seglarbaren 08-504 203 00, Skärgårdsgummans Café 08-501 576
68 and Fisklådan 08-501 574 63, by Gruvbryggan in Utö. BåtsHaket in
Ålö 08-501 574 63. See lunch offers page 17.
Hotel, hostel, camping and cottages, see page 42-45.
You can find most facilities here!. Tourist info 08-501 574 10,
www.utoturistbyra.se
Summertime boat fr Stockholm daily at 8.45 a.m., Travel time approx.
3.5 h. All year round fr Årsta Havsbad, (45 min, connecting SL-bus).
Gällnö looks like the archi­
pelago did in the old days,
with most of its original
buildings still in place. In
a typical archipelago way,
the red wooden houses are
surrounded by lilacs and
outdoor toilets. Down by
the harbour is the settlement with the boat houses, just like in the old times. Due to a living
agriculture you will find one of the best preserved cultural landscapes
here, with pastures, fields and rocks smoothened by the passing of the
glaciers. In Torsviken and around Brännholmen there are several fine
places for swimming. You can also row over to Karklö with Båtluffarleden’s rowing boats.
Handelsboden’s café, 08-571 663 10.
Hostels, cottages, camping, camping grounds. See p. 43.
Food store open summertime, 08-571 663 10. Resting point. Information 08-571 661 17, Mon-Fri 9.00-11.00 a.m., 6.00-7.00 p.m., weekend 10.00-11.00 a.m..
Boat fr Stockholm and Sollenkroka (connecting SL-bus fr Slussen).
Dep. fr Stockholm summertime Mon–Fri 8.00, 10.30, 11.00 a.m.
(steamboat), Sat 8.00, 8.30 a.m., Sun 8.45 a.m. Travel time approx. 2 h
(steamboat 3 h). Info 08-679 58 30.
34
Svartsöbodens Bryggcafé och Svartsö Krog vid Ahlsviks brygga,
08-542 472 55. Svartsö Herrgårdspensionat i Skälvik, 08-542 470 17.
Svartsö Herrgårdspensionat, se ovan. Fina lägerplatser och stugor,
bl a bodarna vid Ahlsviks brygga, 08-542 473 25.
Livsmedelsaffär, post, cykeluthyrning och turistinfo vid Ahlsviks
brygga, 08-542 473 25.
Sommartid båt f Stockholm, mån–fre 9.00, 11.30, lör 8.30, 12.00,
sön 8.30, 11.30 (ångbåt). Morgonturen tar ca 2 tim.
Nämdö
Utö
35
Fjärdlång
Ornö
Stockholm – Fjärdlång, SEK 120 one way.
Stockholm – Ornö, SEK 120 one way.
People have lived in Fjärdlång since the 15th century, at least. Once
upon a time the island belonged to King Gustav Vasa, but today Fjärdlång is owned by the state and since 1985 it is a nature reserve. The
area is widely known for its beauty and excellent rocks for bathing.
You will find some of the archipelago’s most beautiful harbours here,
as well as a rich bird life and good fishing.
A long walk is the best
way to discover the surroundings. You can go
swimming just about
everywhere on this island.
If you wish to stay overnight, make reservations
in Ernest Thiel’s beautiful
summer villa, today a
popular hostel.
Ornö is one of the archipelago’s largest islands and we will call at several jetties and
suggest you get off at Ornö Kyrka, the
church. Here you will find the restaurant
Ornö Krog & Veranda with a gallery and fine
view over the bay, Kyrkviken. Further up the hill, you will find Ornö
Museum with new exciting exhibitions every summer. At the tourist
agency, you can rent bikes. To the south you will pass by the food store
and the unique nature reserve by Sundby Säteri. To the north Hässelmara farm awaits you with home grown vegetables and a cosy farm
café. There are also interesting burial grounds to explore.
Daily ferry from Hässelmara to Dalarö. From Ornö Kyrkbrygga you
can catch a boat to Fjärdlång, Huvudskär, Kymmendö and Utö. Kayaks
for rent, please contact the Tourist agency.
Hostel (book at Dalarö Tourist agency 08-501 508 00), camping
and cottages, see page 43-45.
Kiosk with some food and breakfast buffet. TC. Rowing boats and
kayaks to rent. Info 08-501 560 92. www.haninge.se click to ”Turism/
Skärgård”.
Boat from Stockholm, summertime departures daily at 8.45 a.m.
Travel time approx. 3 h. Boat also from Dalarö (connecting SL-bus)
Information 08-679 58 30.
36
Ornö Krog & Veranda, beach bar and boule, see lunch offer page 17,
08-501 560 00. Hässelmara farm café, 08-501 544 00. Ornö Museums
garden café, 08-501 580 00.
Bed & Breakfast, 08-501 564 66. Cottages to rent, call the Tourist
agency, see below.
Store and petrol station in Vargvik 08-501 560 14. Bikes to rent by
Hässelmara gård and Ornö Museum (pick up and drop off in different
locations). Junkstore at Hässelmara and Lervassa Gård. Tourist agency,
08-501 563 05, 0707-80 63 14. www.orno.nu
Summertime boat fr Stockholm to Ornö Kyrkbrygga, daily departures at 8.45 a.m. Travel time approx. 2.5 h. Boat/car ferry all year round
from Dalarö to Hässelmara (connecting SL-bus).
37
Rånö
Nåttarö
Landsort
Ankarudden – Landsort, SEK 65 one way.
Nynäshamn – Rånö,
Nynäshamn – Nåttarö,
SEK 65 one way.
SEK 65 one way.
In the old days, Rånö and
Nåttarö were part of the important defence of Stockholm.
War torches were lit in bad
times to warn of the approaching enemies. How­ever,
the islands were badly struck
especially by the Russians in
1719. A memory of these times
are the Russian ovens at Skut­
viken and by Kapelludden.
Today the islands are owned
by Skärgårdsstiftelsen, which
means you can wander freely almost everywhere. Just north of Rånö
is the beautiful Rånö Ängsholme. Take the Waxholmsboat on to Ålö,
which in turn is connected to Utö.
In Nåttarö you will find a cave
with an extraordinary history.
It is said to have been the
hiding place of the Queen
widow Maria Eleonora, as she
fled the country and was
beside herself with sorrow
when grieving her husband
King Gustav II Adolf. According to the story she buried
the Kings’ heart outside the
cave, a heart she had carried in a golden locket.
Just next to the famous cave in eastern Nåttarö is ­Stora Sand. This
is the largest sandy beach on the island and one of the best places for
swimming. The islands outside are bird reserves where sea birds are
seen to breed.
Rånökällan, restaurant, 08-501 576 31.
Cottages and camping, see page 44-45, or call for information, see
below
Summer store 08-501 571 22. TC, pumps for drinking water. Information 08-501 570 85. www.rono.se
Commuter train to Nynäshamn. On with boat, daily departures
summertime at 9.05, 11.20 a.m. Travel time approx. 50 min. Information 08-679 58 30.
Nåttarö Krog, lighter meals and wine, 08-520 400 96.
Cottages and camping, call for info, see below.
Summer store 08-520 400 15. TC, fresh water. Shower and sauna
for cottages and camping guests. Information 08-520 400 30. www.
dinskargard.se, www.nataro.se
Commuter train to Nynäshamn. Boat onwards, daily departure
summertime 9.05, 11.20 a.m. Travel time 30 mins. Info 08-679 58 30.
38
Landsort is a genuine old pilot’s and lighthouse location on the island of Öja. As the
most southern outpost of the archipelago,
the island gained great importance already
during King Gustav Vasa’s days. Landsort’s
lighthouse was built in the 1670’s. Today it is
Sweden’s best kept lighthouse, as well as the
brightest one in the archipelago. A brisk walk will take you between the
southern and the northern part of the island, alongside beautiful rocks
for swimming and exciting history.
Just north of the village is the Pest Cemetery and the labyrinth, which
the fishermen believed brought good luck and protection out at sea. The
fishermen at Öja took help from all powers available, even the supernatural. In the cavitie Helvitteskällan, for example, the inhabi­tants used to
make sacrifices to please the devil.
The fishing huts by Ankarudden, café and restaurants in the harbour,
where the Landsortsboat leaves from, 08-520 313 80. Sjöbloms, restaurant in the old Pilot’s Boat house Lotskontoret, 08-520 341 11. GBS Pub &
Store, small food store with small restaurant, 08-520 340 14
Hostel 08-520 341 05. B& B in Lotsutkiken, 08-520 341 11.
Food store, 08-520 340 14. Fishing trips, diving, eagle- and seal safari,
08-520 340 84. Sjöpricken ceramics, 08-520 341 05. www.landsort.com
Commuter train to Nynäshamn, bus to Ankarudden at Torö, then boat
onwards. Summertime dep Mon–Fri 9.40 a.m. Sat-Sun 10.40 a.m. Travel
time 30 mins. Information 08-679 58 30.
39
Open every day!
WORKING FOR AN OPEN ARCHIPELAGO
The project ”Öppen skärgård” (”An Open Archipelago”) is a good example of the esprit out
here. This is where business people, inns, hostels and distributors meet to market the archipelago together, all year round. One of their
marketing channels is the excellent web with
lots of infor­mation, tips and offers:
www.oppenskargard.se
FOOD, ARTS AND CRAFTS FROM THE AREA
Another initiative is ” Skärgårdssmak” (”The
Taste of the Archipelago”), where skilled chefs
in the archipelagos of Stockholm, Åbo and
Åland work together to make sure to protect
and develop the unique cooking traditions of
the archipelagos.
The aim is to serve food with that little
extra. It should taste of the archipelago. Fish
from the sea, vegetables from next door and
game from the forests.
The shorter the transportation has been,
the better the food will taste. That is why the
group also includes fishermen, farmers and
animal breeders. Acknowledged produce is
marked with the white wave of Skärgårdssmak.
This is a sign that the taste is excellent, but
40
also that the food has been produced with
respect to the sensitive environment in the
archipelago. More information:
Möja Café and Bakery near Bergs jetty, tel. 08571 616 00.
ARHOLMA
Arholma Dansbana (dance pavilion) & Krog,
with a view over the archipelago. 0176-560 87.
Arholma Bryggcafé by Norra bryggan,
070-735 62 76.
Arholma Nord Café 070-654 20 81.
FEJANS Restaurant with tables outside by the
water. Fish is the speciality. 0176-430 42.
VAXHOLM
Vaxholms Hotell. Restaurant with a history and
a view over the harbour, 08-541 301 50.
Vaxholm Hamnkrogen, 08-541 320 39.
Melanders Fisk, 08-541 334 66.
Magasinet, 08-541 325 00.
Café Silltruten, 08-541 300 73.
Gröna Längan, 08-541 325 36.
Hembygdsgårdens Café, 08-541 319 80.
Café Lena Linderholm, 08-541 321 73.
Strömmingslådan, 08-541 302 47.
Kastellets summer bistro, tel. 070-610 50 23.
www.skargardshandlarna.com
FURUSUNDS Värdshus. Older inn by Furusundsleden, 0176-803 44.
FJÄDERHOLMARNAS Restaurant on an island
with long traditions, 08-718 33 55.
Restaurants
and Cafés
BLIDÖ
Blidö Wärdshus, near Stämmarsunds jetty.
Traditional archipelago menu, 0176-82599.
Båtkrogen Vildand, nice boat by Almviks jetty,
0176-810 60.
www.skargardssmak.com
FOOD STORES IN THE ARCHIPELAGO
The food stores, too, make sure to promote
the local production. In stores marked with
”Skärgårdssmak” you will be able to find vegetables, fish, meat and arts and crafts from
the locals. By shopping here, you contribute
to the local fishing and farming industry, as
well as making it possible for the locals to
keep their stores open – all year round. Find
out more:
There are plenty of cafés and restaurants in
the archipelago, especially in summer. Here
are some of them, listed from north to south:
S/S Norrskär, S/S Storskär, S/S Saltsjön
and S/S Blidösund. Steamboats with lunch
and dinner cruises, see page 15. The other
Waxholm boats have cafeterias on board.
NORRTÄLJE S/S Norrtelje, steamboat
p­ ermanently anchored in Norrtälje harbour,
0176-191 40.
LIDÖN Lidö Krog in the old manor with a view
over the steamboat jetty, 0176-404 98.
RÖDLÖGA Rödlögabodens café, 0176-870 60.
SIARÖFORTET Café by the hostel,
08-24 30 90.
FINNHAMNS Café Krog, a view of the sea,
cosy bar, weekends Easter-Sep, daily June-Aug,
08-542 464 04.
LJUSTERÖ
Linanäs Skeppskrog, good food and music,
view of the sea, 08-54241904.
Rastalina Sjökrog, by the water at ­Lina­näs, 08542 480 08.
SVARTSÖ
Svartsö Krog by Ahlsviks jetty. Archipelago
menu, 08-542 472 55.
Svartsö Manor Inn at Skälvik, 08-542 470 17.
Svartsöbodens tables outside by Ahlsviks jetty,
08-542 473 25.
INGMARSÖ Stekhus & Brygga by Ingmarsö
steamboat jetty, 08-542 468 00.
VÄRMDÖ
Bullandökrogen, 08-571 458 54.
Skärmarö Sjökrog, 08-571 461 77.
NÄSSLINGEN Restaurang Nässlingen tables
outside on their own island by Ljusterö, 08-542
472 10.
NORRA Stavsudda Krog. Small harbour restaurant on the quayside, 08-571 654 54.
DJURÖ Djuröbadens Pensionat with popular
beduin tent on the jetty, 08-571 518 00.
GRINDA
Grinda Wärdshus, restaurant and pub in old
Jugend villa, 08-542 494 91.
Framfickan, jetty restaurant, 08-542 494 91.
Store & Café, 08-542 494 91.
MÖJA
Wikströms Fisk in Ramsmora, 08-57164170.
Möja Krog by Bergs jetty, 08-571 641 85.
Pizza bus with fishing hut in Berg, ­
0702-11 31 17.
SANDHAMN
Sandhamns Värdshus, 08-571 530 51
Seglarhotellet with Skärgårdsbistro and Alma
Bar, 08-574 504 00.
41
Dykarbaren, 08-571 535 54.
Sands Restaurant and Café in Sands Hotel,
08-571 530 20.
Sandhamns Deli, 08-571 530 16.
RUNMARÖ Krog, by Styrsviks jetty, varied
archipelago menu, 08-571 528 70.
ORNÖ
Ornö Krog & Veranda with a gallery, May–
Sep weekends, daily in summer, 08-501 560 00.
Hässelmara Gårdscafé, sells home grown
produce too, 08-501 544 74.
UTÖ
Utö Värdshus. Classic restaurant and bar. View
over Mysingen, 08-504 203 00.
42
There are more than 500 hotel rooms in the
Stockholm archipelago. Here are some of the
hotels and inns, listed from north to south:
GRINDA Wärdshus, 32 rooms with shower
and WC, 08-542 494 91.
ÄLMSTA Turistgården Haga, 23 rooms, some
with shower/WC, also a hostel, 0176-500 78.
RÖGRUND Grundets Gästhem & Café,
08-571 561 10.
SMÅDALARÖ Gård. Hotel and restaurant in a
manor environment, 08-501 551 00.
SVARTSÖ Herrgårdspensionat, 5 double
rooms and one room to sleep 4, 08-542 470 17.
GRISSLEHAMN
Hotell Havsbaden, 51 rooms, 0175-309 30.
Solgårdens Pensionat, 4 rooms and camping
cottages with 16 beds, 0175-300 19.
NÄMDÖ
Hembygdsmuseet in the old school in Sand.
Nämdö Bar & Café by Solvik, lighter meals,
breakfast buffet, picnic baskets, 08-571 560 17.
DALARÖ
Strand Hotell. Classic restaurant with the bar,
Skärgårdsdoktorn, by the jetty, 08-501 511 18.
Hotell Bellevue, restaurant with a view over
the water and their own jetty, 08-501 504 10.
Hotels and inns
Dannekrogen, Gruvbryggan, food served and
bakery, 08-501 570 79.
Seglarbaren Gruvbryggan, 08-504 203 00.
Skärgårdsgummans Café, 08-501 576 68.
Pizzastugan, 08-501 573 50.
UTÖ/ÅLÖ BåtsHaket in Ålö, fish dishes from
their own cultivation, 08-501 574 63.
NÅTTARÖ Restaurant with light food, beer
and wine, 08-520 400 30.
RÅNÖ Rånökällan, restaurant with a view
over the sea, 08-501 576 31.
NYNÄSHAMN Restaurang Kroken in the
harbour, 08-520 155 20.
MÖRKÖ Skansholmens Sjökrog, authorized
to produce their own snaps, 08-551 550 66.
OAXENS Skärgårdskrog, excellent cuisine
in the old villa on Oaxen outside Mörkö,
08-551 531 05.
TORÖ Sjöbodarna at Ankarudden. Café
daytime, restaurant at night, 08-520 313 80.
LANDSORT
Sjöbloms krog in the former pilot’s boat
­house, 08-520 341 11.
GBS Pub and Store, small food store serving
food too, 08-520 340 14.
NORRTÄLJE
Pensionat Granparken, 14 rooms,
0176-103 54.
Hotell Roslagen, Stockholmsvägen 53,
0176-171 80.
TJOCKÖ Skärgårdshuset, Tjockö Inn, 0176432 90.
LIDÖN Lidö Krog & Konferens, 15 rooms in
the old manor house, 0176-404 99.
FURUSUNDS Värdshus, 23 rooms with ­shower,
telephone and TV, 0176-803 44.
LJUSTERÖ Roslagens Pärla, V Lagnö, 52
rooms, half of them with a shower and a WC,
08-542 431 86.
WAXHOLM
Waxholms Hotell in the harbour,
08-541 301 50.
Vaxholm Kastellets Bed & Breakfast, ­­
double- and 3-bed rooms, all year round,
08-541 751 10.
GUSTAVSBERG Hotell Blå Blom,
22 rooms out of which 9 are double rooms,
08-574 112 60.
HASSELUDDEN Skepparholmen, 75 rooms,
08-747 65 00.
DJURÖ Djuröbadens Pensionat, Gamla Prästgården, 31 rooms, 08-571 518 00.
DALARÖ
Strand Hotell, classic archipelago hotel by
the water, 08-501 511 18.
Smådalarö Gård, 56 rooms, tennis courts,
boats to rent, 08-501 551 00.
Hotel Bellevue, 31 rooms, several with shower and WC, 08-501 504 10.
Rosenön, 125 beds, tennis courts, pool, etc.
*08-501 537 00.
ORNÖ Hotellbåten Wiktoria with 16 rooms
in Kyrkviken, 08-501 560 00.
UTÖ Värdshus, annex and 30 four bed cottages with shower and WC, 08-504 203 00.
NYNÄSHAMN
Skärgårdshotellet, 84 rooms, 08-111 20.
Utsikten, 204 rooms, 08-546 29 10.
Nynäs Havsbad with Strandhotellet and
Badhotellet, 08-520 604 00.
SALTSJÖBADEN Grand Hôtel, 08-50617000.
SANDHAMN
Sandhamns Hotell & Konferens with gym,
pool etc, open all year round, 08-574 504 00.
Sands Hotell, 15 rooms, all year round,
08-571 530 20.
INGARÖ Säby Säteri, 39 rooms,
08-570 281 15.
Hostels
There are plenty of hostels in the archipelago,
but they tend to be popular so make reservations well in advance:
BJÖRKÖ-ARHOLMA Skeppsmyra, Lyckhem,
all year round, 0176-940 27.
43
ARHOLMA Bull-Augusts gård, all year round,
0176-560 18.
Arholma Nord, archipelago accommodation
with the sea as your closest neighbour, tel. 070654 20 81.
FEJANS Vandrarhem, 0176-430 31.
NORRTÄLJE Brännäsgården, 0176-715 69.
KAPELLSKÄR Riddersholm, 0176-441 69.
LIDÖ Västergården, 0176-400 63.
BLIDÖ Stämmarsund, 0176-825 99.
SIARÖFORTET, 08-24 30 90.
GÄLLNÖ Vandrarhem, 08-571 661 17.
BOGESUNDS Vandrarhem, 08-541 301 50.
RUNMARÖ Hostel all year round,
08-571 528 70.
BULLERÖ Gästhem, 08-571 590 92 (weekdays
7.30-8.30 a.m.).
RÖGRUND Grundets Gästhem,
08-571 561 10.
DALARÖ Lotsen, 08-501 516 36.
SANDHAMN Hostel, 070-107 30 15.
FJÄRDLÅNG Thielska villan, 08-501 560 92.
FINNHAMN Utsikten, all year round,
08-542 462 12.
HUVUDSKÄR Hostel, 08-501 508 00.
STORA KALHOLMEN, 08-542 460 23.
UTÖ Vandrarhem, all year round,
08-50420315.
MÖJA Gästhemmet in Långvik,
08-571 646 73.
MÖJA Fäfrubackens Pensionat in Berg,
all year round, 08-10 02 21.
RINDÖ Vandrarhem, all year round, 08541 300 66.
VÄRMDÖ Lillsved Vandrarhem,
08-541 385 30.
GRINDA Vandrarhem, 08-542 490 72.
44
NYNÄSHAMN Lövhagen, all year round,
08-520 138 31.
NYNÄSHAMN Nickstagården, all year round,
08-520 208 34.
LANDSORT Hostel, 08-520 341 05.
Cottages
Camping
ARHOLMA. TC, store post office.
Tel 0708-27 53 61.
store on Nämdö. Tel 08-571 580 10,
571 580 14.
Would you like to rent a cottage for the holidays or over a weekend? Read more about that
under each island.
Din Skärgård lets cottages at Nåttarö.
For more information call 08-744 50 01,
www.dinskargard.se
Destination Stockholms Skärgård have
cottages to rent in the archipelago, call tel. 08542 481 00 or visit www.dess.se
The local tourist agencies also offer private
cottages to rent. For telephone number, please
refer to the next page.
Camping in the archipelago is not classified in
the way camping is inland. So it’s not a question of comfort, but rather the basics - and an
amazing nature experience.
IDÖ, south of Arholma. TC, resting hut, store
at Arholma. Water only on request. Bring
water! Tel 070-754 05 55.
FJÄRDLÅNG, southern part. TC, kiosk with
food. Rowing boats to rent. Tel summer
08-501 560 92. Other times: 08-606 82 58.
SJÄLBOTTNA, south-east part of island. TC,
stores on Ljusterö and Blidö.
Tel 08-542 433 00.
UTÖ near Gruvbryggan. Sandy beach. Service
building for doing dishes, washing, WC etc.
Bikes to rent, food stores, post office, sick bay
and restaurants. Tel 08-501 574 50.
Bed & Breakfast
Rent a room in the archipelago with breakfast
included. More than 90 landlords and land­
ladies let rooms on islands like Landsort, Ornö,
Nämdö, Runmarö, Möja and Blidö. For reservations and payment, talk to each landlord/lady.
The standard of rooms and prices vary. Collect
the brochure Bed & Breakfast at our terminals,
at tourist agencies in the archi­pelago or at
Sverigehuset by Kungsträdgården. There you
will find all the information you need.
Skärgårdsstiftelsen
Skärgårdsstiftelsen has several locations for
camping. For more information please call the
supervisor on each island.
FINNHAMN. TC, sauna, store, café/restaurant,
rowing boats to rent, tel 08-542 462 12.
GRINDA. TC, sauna, store. Tel 08-542 498 18.
GÅLÖ, peninsula south of Dalarö. TC, store,
kiosk, rowing boats to rent, tel 08-500 331 56.
RÅNÖ. TC, store. Tel 08-501 570 85.
NÅTTARÖ. Outdoor toilet, store.
Tel 08-520 400 30.
Nature reserves
Large parts of Skärgårdsstiftelsen’s grounds are
nature reserves, which requires extra care. You
may go camping here for two nights, after
which you have to talk to the supervisor. At
Utö and Björnö you can camp on sign-posted
locations. You may not build a fire, but you
may use a camping grill and camping kitchen.
Dogs must be kept on a leash.
GÄLLNÖ, Brännholmen with sandy beach on
northern island. TC. Store, post office, resting
hut and drinking water in village.
Tel 08-571 662 69.
GRANHOLMEN by Möja. Munkhamn 15 mins
walk from jetty (not suitable for bikes). TC,
drinking water. Tel 08-571 640 30.
BJÖRNÖ, Ingarölandet. Näset: Fields. TC,
d­ rinking water, swimming by Torpesand.
­Ramsviken: by the water. TC, drinking water.
Kiosk/food store, café and bikes to rent by
Björkviks jetty. Tel 08-571 422 48.
BOSKAPSÖN by Söderängsviken. Taxi boat
from Stavsnäs, 08-571 501 00. TC, water
­available from supervisor 08-571 564 08.
JUNGFRUSKÄR Best on Grönskär, west of
Jungfruskär. Taxi boat from Stavsnäs, 08571 501 00. TC, no drinking water. Nearest
Tourist Agencies
Tourist Agency Sverigehuset, Kungsträdgården, 08-508 28 508.
Hotellcentralen, Centralen, 08-508 28 508.
Grisslehamn, Ångbåtsbryggan, 0175-331 02.
Norrtälje, Danskesgränd 4-6, 0176-719 90.
Åkersberga, centrum, 08-540 815 10.
Vaxholm, Rådhuset, 08-541 314 80.
Nacka, Forum Nacka, 08-718 80 60.
Värmdö, Odelbergsvägen 5B, Gustavsberg,
08-570 345 67.
Dalarö, Tullhuset, jun–aug, 08-501 508 00.
Ornö, in the museum by the church,
08-501 580 00.
Södertälje, Saltsjögatan 2, 08-550 227 00.
Utö, Gruvbryggan, 08-501 574 10.
Nynäshamn, Fiskehamnen, 08-520 737 00.
45
46
47
carriers, some of our trips depart from other quays, such as for
example Strandvägen. If this is the case, it will be ­clearly stated
in the timetables.
Tickets and information
Tickets are for sale on board. All travel passes (see page 19) are
sold at our terminals. Call information or visit our web site if
you need more information. Sverigehuset in Kungsträdgården
have maps and brochures. Here you can also book cottages,
hotel rooms and buy excursion kits.
Welcome aboard
Times and timetables
Waxholmsbolaget has three timetables: for the northern,
middle and southern archipelago. Until June 16th the spring
timetable applies. The summer time­table applies from 17th
June until 19th August. After that the late summer timetable is
valid, as there are still opportunities to make day trips.
Home harbour Stockholm
Strömkajen in Stockholm, in front of Grand Hôtel, is the home
harbour of Waxholms­bolaget. Here you will find one of our
three terminals and this is where most of our boats depart
from. We also have terminals in Vaxholm and Stavsnäs and
a number of jetties, which are important junctions for our
passengers, see page 46. As we also colla­borate with other
Disabled?
The modern boats are accessible with toilets for the dis­abled,
lots of space and helpful staff. More information is available in
our brochure Skärgård för alla.
Don’t forget the semaphore
The semaphore, the round foldable sign on the jetty, should be
placed in its vertical position whilst you are waiting for the
boat. Then it signals to the captain that someone wants to be
picked up. If it’s dark you need a torch to signal with.
Information
Mon–Fri at 8.00 a.m.–4.45 p.m., Sat–Sun at 8.00 a.m.–3.00 p.m.
Tel 08-679 58 30. www.waxholmsbolaget.se
Skärgårdsresor is published by Waxholmsbolaget. The
broch­ure contains a lot of information. We apologize
for printing errors or changes beyond our control.
Production: Megafon AB. Translation: Christina Knight.
Photo: Malcolm Hanes, Albert Håkansson, Bosse Lind,
­Christer Lundin, Magnus Rietz, Magnus Wegler,
Hans ­Bjurling/Johnér Bildbyrå.
Waxholms Ångfartygs AB, Box 7422, 103 91 Stockholm. www.waxholmsbolaget.se
Waxholmsbolaget there and back
Steamboat trips of the old days . . . . . . . . 14
Daily tours with archipelago lunch . . . . . . 16
Hiking in the archipelago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
What to see and do in the
archipelago
Arts and crafts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Diving and flying in the archipelago . . . . .
Ice skating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The best swimming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Kayaking and canoeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
21
21
21
21
23
23
FROM ARHOLMA TO LANDSORT
Arholma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fejan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Lidö . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Svartlöga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rödlöga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ängsö Nationalpark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Siaröfortet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ljusterö . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Finnhamn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Grinda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Vaxholm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sandhamn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Möja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Gällnö . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Svartsö . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Nämdö . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Utö . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fjärdlång . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ornö . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rånö . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Nåttarö . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Landsort . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
26
27
27
28
28
29
29
30
30
31
32
32
33
34
34
35
35
36
36
38
38
39
TIPS AND TELEPHONE NUMBERS
Restaurants and cafés . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Hotels and inns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Hostels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Cottages, Bed & Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Tourist agencies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46-47