ORCHHA And AROund - Incredible India

Delhi to ORCHHA
By Road:
440 kms
ORCHHA and around
Nearest Railhead:
Jhansi (on DelhiChennai main line)
4.5 hrs by Shatabdi
Express
Orchha ¤ Datia ¤ Sonagiri ¤ Shivpuri
Madhav NP ¤ Chanderi
Map not to scale
The destinations in this circuit are best accessed through Jhansi,
in Uttar Pradesh, reached quickest by the Shatabdi Express from
Delhi. Orchha, the 17th century Bundela capital dotted with palaces
and temples, is a mere 16 kms from Jhansi. Close by are Sonagiri
and Datia – the former a Jain pilgrimage, and the latter home to
the magnificent seven-storey palace of Bir Singh Deo. The town
of Shivpuri, with its splendid chhatris is also the entry point to
Madhav National Park. About a four-hour drive from Jhansi
(146 kms away) is the medieval town of Chanderi, known more for
its gossamer silk weaves than its incredible built heritage.
Suggested circuits
Delhi-Orchha
Delhi-Orchha-Datia-Sonagiri
Delhi-Gwalior-Datia-Orchha
Delhi-Shivpuri-Madhav NP
Delhi-Chanderi
Nearest Airport:
Gwalior
50 mins flying time
Distances from
Orchha (in kms):
Jhansi
Datia
Sonagiri
Shivpuri
Chanderi
Gwalior
16
43
50
117
146
119
WEEKEND getaways in MADHYA PRADESH
Orchha
Distance from Jhansi: 16 kms
Activities
Bikes on hire: Small
shops in the main
market in Orchha
rent out bicycles for
a nominal amount.
Cycling is a great
way of exploring the
town.
Rafting on the
Betwa: Betwa
Retreat (Ph 252618)
conducts river
rafting when the
river is in full spate
after the monsoons.
It usually takes a
batch of six people,
and charges a fee of
` 200 per head.
BELOW: View
of the
splendid Jahangir
Mahal with its elegant
chattris, multiple
arches, and carved
doorways
48
Barely half an hour’s drive from Jhansi railway
station, is the magical town of Orchha. True
to its name, which means hidden treasure,
the small town on the banks of the Betwa
river mesmerises the visitor with its glorious
palaces, temples and its magical charm.
Founded by the Bundela king, Rudra Pratap
in 1531, Orchha saw a golden period of
architecture under Bir Singh Deo (1604-1627)
who also constructed the Jhansi Fort and the
Bir Singh Palace at Datia.
Orchha’s main attraction is the cluster of three
palaces – Jahangir Mahal, Raj Mahal and Rai
Parveen Mahal.
Bir Singh’s most enduring legacy is the
magnificent Jahangir Mahal, said to have
been built to accommodate his benefactor, the
Mughal emperor, Jahangir, who was to visit
Orchha for a day. The three-storeyed royal
rest-house has 236 chambers laid around a vast
central courtyard. The palace displays many
Rajput elements interspersed with Mughal
ones. The building is ornamented with glazed
tiles – lapis lazuli inlay and delicate jaalis – and
has a skyline dominated by chhatris, cupolas
and domes. On its four corners are massive
bastions that give it a fort-like appearance.
Adjacent to Jahangir Mahal is the older Raj
Mahal, the first monument to be built by
Rudra Pratap, in 1531. The five-storeyed
palace has a plain exterior, which belies the
wealth of stunning murals within. Scenes
from the Ramayana and Mahabharata, as well as
medieval court life, are painted in vivid hues.
The lesser-known Rai Parveen Mahal, behind
Jahangir Mahal, is worth a visit for its
fascinating murals of Rai Parveen, the poetess
paramour of Raja Indramani (r. 1672-76). She
apparently so enchanted Akbar that he had
her brought to Delhi and attempted to wean
her affections from the Bundela king. Rai
Parveen, however, proved impervious to
his advances. Impressed by her loyalty, the
emperor sent her back to Orchha.
Exquisite murals
painted on the walls
and ceiling of
Raj Mahal
Flanked by Jahangir Mahal and Raj Mahal is
Sheesh Mahal, now converted into a heritage
hotel run by Madhya Pradesh Tourism.
In the heart of the town is the popular Ram
Raja Temple. Legend goes that Raja Madhukar
Shah’s wife had the towering Chaturbhuj
Temple built for Lord Rama, whose idol she
was bringing from Ayodhya. On her return
she kept the idol in her palace overnight before
its ceremonial installation in the newly built
temple. However, the queen had forgotten the
injunction that the idol would enshrine itself
where it was first placed. And thus the palace
itself became a temple, while the Chaturbhuj
Temple stands bereft of Rama.
Mural from
Rai Parveen Mahal
BELOW: Ram Raja
Temple seen from
Chaturbhuj Temple
ABOVE:
WEEKEND getaways in MADHYA PRADESH
the Abhishek Bachhan-Aishwarya Rai starrer
Ravan was shot here.
Festivals
One can participate
in the many local
festivals in Orchha:
Among the other medieval monuments, the
most attractive are the elaborate chhatris or
cenotaphs of the Bundela kings along the
banks of the Betwa, at Kanchana Ghat. The
cenotaphs, 15 in all, look glorious with their
shimmering reflections in the waters of the
river at sunset.
Keshav Jayanti
Samaroh is a fiveday festival held
in April, when
Bundelkhandi
nritya, lokgeet
and Ramayana
path are sung and
performed.
Shopping in Orchha is a delight! One can buy
fabulous ethnic clothes, jewellery, footwear,
and handicrafts from the local shops. Do not
forget to bargain!
Ram Vivah
commemorating the
wedding of Ram and
Sita, is held with
great pomp in the
Ram Raja Temple
every November.
façade of
Laxminarayan Temple
BELOW: The Bundela
chhatris by the river
50
Orchha is beautiful
in the rainy season
when the stone
palaces and temples
are washed off the
summer dust and the
clear waters of the
Betwa gush over the
rocks and boulders.
Just across the river, a fair weather road takes
one to the Orchha Wildlife Sanctuary with its
large population of spotted deer and nilgai.
Shravan Teej in July
celebrates the arrival
of monsoons.
ABOVE: Front
Orchha and Around
Standing on an elevation, Lakshminarayan
Temple, is unique as it blends temple and
fort architecture. The interior walls are a riot
of colour, with remarkably well-preserved
murals depicting a variety of themes. The
temple was in the limelight recently when
Recently declared a temple town, alcohol
or non-vegetarian food is not served in
eateries in Orchha. Even so, the food here
does not disappoint. All cuisines from
Indian to Oriental to Continental are
available here (though only the vegetarian
versions). The smaller restaurants on
Jahangir Mahal Road are tourist favourites.
‘Bundela’ at Betwa Retreat provides a
spectacular view of the flowing river
as you sip on your coffee.
51
Orchha and Around
WEEKEND getaways in MADHYA PRADESH
Datia
Distance from Orchha: 49 kms
Datia and Sonagiri
can be accessed both
from Jhansi as well
as Gwalior. While
Datia has a MPSTDC
Tourist Motel to stay,
it can be easily done
as a day trip along
with Sonagiri from
Orchha or Gwalior.
CLOCKWISE FROM
BELOW RIGHT: The
magnificent Bir Singh
Palace in Datia;
Details from the
interiors
Weaving your way through narrow galis, past
village ponds and fields, you are likely to
wonder if you have come to the wrong place.
Yet the small, sleepy town of Datia, mentioned
in the Mahabharata as Daityavakra, has one of
the most beautiful medieval palaces in India.
Built in 1620, Bir Singh Deo’s Palace is a
magnificent seven-storeyed structure, that
crowns a hillock visible from the main
highway connecting Gwalior to Orchha.
Built around a central courtyard, the
royal apartments have intricate jaali work,
vibrantly-coloured murals and stucco figures
that are exquisite to behold and give a
glimpse into the creative genius that flowered
during the period. Make sure to climb up to
the top floor to get a breathtaking view of the
countryside.
Peetambhara Peeth, said to be a shaktipeeth, is
the most popular temple of the town. Bharat
Garh Fort, and the Karna Sagar Tank with its
ghats, ruined temples and surrounding chhatris
are the other attractions in town.
Sonagiri
Distance from Datia: 15 kms
Sonagiri, with its
white marble temples
The famous Jain pilgrimage of Sonagiri, with
its low hills capped with rows of sparkling
white marble temple was once known as
Swarnagiri or Shravangiri. It has 77 temples
on the hill and 26 in the village below.
The temples are held in reverence by the
Digambara sect, and for centuries Jain ascetics
have come here to seek salvation.
Around 300 steps lead up to the summit,
winding their way around the temples.
Eatables are not allowed up the hill, so make
sure that you are not hungry when you
begin the climb! Peacocks strut around on
the hill adding colour to the pristine white
surroundings.
Interestingly, though the temples are all
painted in white, their architectural style and
size vary greatly. According to Takeo Kamiya
(Architecture of the Indian Subcontinent), some
temples show influences of the Islamic style
of architecture, while one even resembles a
Russian church.
The temple dedicated to Chandranatha, the
eighth tirthankara, is the most important and
also the most beautiful temple here. Inside
is an imposing 3 m tall idol of the tirthankara
cut out from glistening black rock. A large
annual fair is held here in the month of
Chaitra (March-April).
Tongas (horse-carts)
are still a common
mode of commuting
in the small town
of Sonagiri. Thus
those wanting to
experience some
old-world charm may
take a ride on the
horse cart.
53
WEEKEND getaways in MADHYA PRADESH
ABOVE: Plush
interiors
of Madhav Vilas, the
Scindia summer palace
BELOW: The stunning
marble cenotaph of
Madho Rao Scindia
Shivpuri
Distance from Jhansi: 100 kms
Distance from Gwalior: 116 kms
Shivpuri, the summer capital of the erstwhile
Gwalior state, is situated in the midst of dense
forests that were once the favourite hunting
grounds of the Mughal emperors, and later the
Scindias and high ranking personages of the
British Raj.
Madhav Vilas, the Scindia summer
palace in the town, is a turreted rosepink colonial structure standing by
the picturesque, man-made lake,
Sakhya Sagar. Today it houses a
government-run training institute.
Orchha and Around
Just outside the town are the impressive
marble cenotaphs or chhatris of Scindia
kings and queens, set in a formal Mughal
garden. The white marble façade of Madho
Rao Scindia’s cenotaph is inlaid with precious
and semiprecious stones. Facing it is the
cenotaph dedicated to his mother, Maharani
Sakhya Raje Scindia.
ABOVE: Chhatri
of
Maharani Sakhya
Raje Scindia
BELOW: An old
photograph of Tantia
Tope after his capture
by the British in 1859
Both memorials contain their life-size images,
meticulously tended by attendants performing
daily rituals. In the evenings, the atmosphere
is made magical by local musicians singing
classical ragas at the site.
Also worth visiting is the kutcherry or the
collectorate, where the nationalist hero of the
1857 Uprising, Tantia Tope was hanged. A large
statue commemorates the legendary leader.
The scenic Bhadaiya Kund is a popular picnic
spot. The waters of the natural spring here are
believed to have curative powers.
Short excursions from Shivpuri can be
made to several interesting sites in the
vicinity such as: Surwaya (21 kms) which
has the remains of a fort, three Hindu
temples, a monastery and a step-well;
Narwar (41 kms) with its remarkable
fortress; and Sultangarh Falls (50 kms).
An excursion can also be made to Karera
Bird Sanctuary, famed for the Great
Indian Bustard and the Black Buck.
55
WEEKEND getaways in MADHYA PRADESH
Langur sitting
atop a tree
BOTTOM: Herd of
spotted deer
ABOVE:
Madhav National Park
Madhav National Park, with its 337 sq kms of
dense forests around Shivpuri, was declared
a National Park in 1959 and is home to jackals,
wild boars, sloth bears, langurs and various
species of deer. In winters, several migratory
birds flock to the lake here.
Timings:
Oct to April: Sunrise to 11 am; 2.30 pm to sunset
April to June: Sunrise to 11 am; 5 pm to sunset
(Closed July-September)
Charges:
Entry Fee: Rs 15 (Indians); Rs 50 (foreigners)
Vehicle entry: Rs 75; Guide fee: Rs 200
Charges for still photography and videography extra
Orchha and Around
Formerly the hunting ground of the Mughal
emperors, it is said that in 1564, Emperor
Akbar captured herds of elephants for his
stables from these forests while returning
from Mandu. The park has a varied terrain
of forested hills and flat grasslands spread
around the two manmade lakes, Sakhya Sagar
and Madhav Sagar. The boat club on the shores
of Sakhya Sagar is very popular among locals.
George Castle,
inside the park
ABOVE:
Standing at the highest point inside the park is
George Castle, the palace built in 1911 by Jiyaji
Rao Scindia for the British king, George V, who
had stopped by for a tiger shoot. Incidentally,
the king shot a tiger during the morning
shikaar and did not need to halt in the palace
overnight. The palace offers a breathtaking
view at the time of sunset.
These forests were among
the favoured stomping
grounds of the Raj’s big
game hunters. The record
for the biggest kill stands in
the name of Lord Hardinge
(1910-16) for hunting
down a tiger measuring
11 ft 6 ¾ inches. The fact is
immortalised on a stone slab
between milestone 101-102
on Gwalior-Mumbai road.
A decade later, the Prince of
Wales failed by a whisker to
break this record, when he
bagged a tiger measuring
11 ft 5 ½ inches.
56
57
A view of the town
from the fort
Chanderi
Distance from Jhansi: 130 kms
Chanderi has historically been a coveted
military outpost for rulers of northern India,
seeking to make foray into the Deccan. It
has thus variously been ruled by the Khilji,
Mughal and Bundela kings, who have all left
their imprint on the architecture of the city.
From the majestic Chanderi Fort, Badal Mahal
Gate, Jama Masjid and Chaubisi Jain Temple,
to the numerous baolis and dargahs, there is
magic in every bylane of Chanderi.
Dominating the town, sitting atop a
200 m high hill, is the colossal Chanderi Fort.
It is, of course, the gossamer silk sarees of Chanderi that occupy
the pride of place in any account of the town. To buy an authentic
Chanderi sari or fabric, one must visit the Sadar bazaar, where
it is available in a dazzling variety of colours and patterns, often
embellished with zari. For the curious, a leisurely walk through the
weavers’ colonies is an experience not to be missed! Walking past
the houses one can hear the constant click-clack of the loom. Most
weavers are very welcoming and one can peep in through the open
doors or windows, or even sit around watching them without feeling
conspicuous.
Having been built upon repeatedly, the palace
complex in the fort displays elements of all
three architectural styles, Khilji, Mughal and
Bundela.
Chanderi’s most defining monument is the
Badal Mahal Gate, named thus after its high
turrets (over 15 m) which seemed to touch the
clouds. Built by Sultan Mahmud Shah Khilji
in 1450, it was meant to serve as the ‘welcome
gate’ for visiting dignitaries.
Many believe that it was the
entrance to a palace known as
Badal Mahal.
The striking
Badal Mahal Gate,
with the fort in the
background
below: Entrance to
the Jama Masjid
BOTTOM: A richly
carved stone wall
encloses the tombs of
Nizammudin's family
ABOVE:
The small Jama Masjid and the
tomb enclosure of Khwaja
Nizammudin’s family, both
barely a few hundred metres
from Badal Mahal Gate, on either
side of the road, display the most
exquisite stone carvings.
59
WEEKEND getaways in MADHYA PRADESH
Orchha and Around
Koshak Mahal, 4 kms from the town centre,
is a stunning structure. Set in landscaped
gardens, the grand edifice rises four floors
high, a remarkable feat of engineering for the
15th century. The palace is square in plan,
with halls rising storey upon storey, each
opening on to a tall arched passage.
below AND FACING
PAGE: Various views of
the Koshak Mahal
60
Historians claim that the palace was built
by Mahmud Shah for his wife Koshak, after
their child was born here. It was originally
named Koshak Hafta (hafta being Urdu for
week, denoting its seven floors). It is believed
that the palace was originally seven-storeyed,
with the lower floors meant for guards and
servants, and the upper floors reserved for
royalty and guests.
61
Orchha and Around
WEEKEND getaways in MADHYA PRADESH
kingdom. Of particular
interest are two
Jain temples and a
colonnaded building
at the far end of the
enclosure.
Situated high on a hillside,
two kilometres south of the
main town, is Shri Digambar
Atishay Khandagiri, the most
important Jain site in Chanderi.
Here, carved into the rock of
a vertically rising cliff, is a
splendid 14 m high statue of the
Jain tirthankara, Rishabhnath.
Further up are a cluster of small
rock-cut caves with a number of
Jina images.
For museum buffs, the new
two-storey Chanderi Museum
run by the ASI is worth a visit.
The well-kept museum has six
galleries – Vishnu, History of
Chanderi, Jain, Anandam, Shiva
and Digpal – with sculptures
collected from in and around
Chanderi (Timings: 10 am-6pm;
Friday closed; Entry fee: ` 2).
top: Laxman Temple
reflected in the waters
of Parmeshwar Tal,
with Shehzadi ka
Rauza standing on its
right
ABOVE: The massive
image of Rishabhnath
carved on a cliff face at
Khandagiri
Around Chanderi
About 20 kms from the main town, standing
on a hillock by the banks of the river Urvashi,
is Budhi Chanderi or old Chanderi, the
original settlement of the town. The ancient
site, believed to correspond with Chaidnagar
mentioned in the Puranas, makes for an
exciting outing. Historians documented the
ruins of 55 Jain and Hindu temples here, built
in the Chandela style.
Though in a dilapidated state, the sight
transports one back in time to when Budhi
Chanderi was the capital of a flourishing
62
The region around
Chanderi was once
a major centre of
Jainism. Hence there
are a number of Jain
pilgrimage sites close
by, the most significant
being Thuvanji (21 kms),
a picturesque village with 24 Jain temples,
the oldest dating back to the 11th century.
Likhident cave shelters at Nanon, 20 kms
from Chanderi, house a vast array of rock
art. Shaped like an arched hallway, the cave
is virtually an art gallery with paintings
executed in distinct panels. Among the most
striking paintings here are those depicting
a long chain of human beings and cattle, a
rather elaborate hunting scene and a herd of
deer on the run from a mysterious creature.
Entrance to Budhi
Chanderi
A word of caution:
Much of the drive to
Budhi Chanderi and
to Nanon is through
rocky terrain with
poor roads. So be
sure your car is in a
fit condition for the
excursion.
Where to Stay
Jhansi (STD: 0517)
Chanda
365/1A Civil Line
Ph 2331919/ 2332077
Sita
Shivpuri Road
Civil Lines
Ph 2442956/ 2444690
Samrat
Chitra Square
Shivpuri Road
Ph 2444943/ 2451016
Jhansi Hotel
Shastri Marg
Ph 2470360/ 2470374
Orchha (STD: 07680)
Sheesh Mahal (MPSTDC)
Heritage Hotel
Telefax 252624
Email: smorchha@
mptourism.com
Betwa Retreat (MPSTDC)
Ph 252618
Email: betwa@
mptourism.com
Orchha Resort
Kanchanaghat
Ph 252222
Email: orchha@
orchharesort.com
Bundelkhand Riverside
Ph 252612, 252332
Web: www.
bundelkhandriverside.
com
Shri Mahant Guest
House
Ram Raja Temple Square
Ph 252715
Shivpuri (STD: 07492)
Veerangana (UP Tourism)
Near Railway Station
Ph 2442402
Shivpuri
Tourist Village
Ph 223760, 221297
Anuj Palace
A B Road (Near Bus
Station)
Ph 253028
Chanderi (STD: 07547)
Tana Bana (MPSTDC)
Ph (07547) 252222
Email: chanderi@
mptourism.com
Datia (STD: 07522)
Amraee Rural Resort
Ph 09406572756
Tourist Motel (MPSTDC)
Ph 238125
Hotel Shrikunj
Ph (07547) 253025
63