Garden Gatherings

Garden Gatherings
A newsletter by the
Renville County Master Gardeners
containing USDA Zone 4 appropriate
information
Volume 103
June 2016
Inside this Issue:






Dwarf Lilac
Tinkerbelle (Syringa 'Bailbelle')
Josee (Syringa 'Josee')
North Dakota breeders have developed
dwarf versions of lilacs that are the perfect
size for smaller yards. Growing only 4 to 6
feet high, these compact versions bring the
same sweet smell and showy flowers without
taking over the yard. Two varieties to try are
'Josee' and Tinkerbelle.
'Josee' will grow 4 to 6 feet tall and features
light lavender flowers. With this variety you
get bonus blooms. After the first flush in
May, 'Josee' will sporadically rebloom until
fall. 'Josee' is hardy to Zone 4. Tinkerbelle
also tops out at 4 to 6 feet tall. Its flower
buds are a deep red that open to a clear pink
and is hardy to Zone 3.
Light: Full Sun
Soil: Well drained soil
Fertilize: Time release fertilizer in spring
Prune: After blooming
-Source Northern Gardener



Gladiolus
June Gardening Tips
Pick-Your-Own Strawberry Patch
Mosquitoes and Zika virus: What you should know
Renville County Extension Master Gardeners Are
Recognized
Another Insect for Your Garden...and they like
raspberries
Rhubarb
Mulch
Glorious Gardens
What’s Happening. . .
At the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum
Music in the Gardens - Sundays through June
Savage Gardens, The Real and Imaginary World of Carnivorous
Plants - now through September 18, 2016
David Rogers' Big Bug Exhibit - June 18 - September 30, 2016
Arboretum Auxiliary Private Garden Tours - July 10, 12 and 13,
2016 Reserve at www.arboretum.umn.edu/auxiliarygardentours.aspx
or call (612) 625-9865
Gala Garden Party - Wednesday, July 27, 2016
Reserve at www.arboretum.umn.edu/tasteandtoast.aspx
For more information on what’s happening at the Arboretum, please visit
www.arboretum.umn.edu/exhibitsandevents.aspx
by Joy Clobes, Renville County Master Gardener
Gladiolus species are native to Central Europe, the Mediterranean region, and
Central and South America. There are about 250 species but today's
today modern
hybrids stem from about 10. Hybridization started in France and England in the
mid 18
1800s. About 1,900
900 varieties with small flowers and fringed and ruffled
r
petals were introduced. Most gladiolus varieties are not scented, however there
ther
are a few modern varieties with a light scent.
Gladiolus are available in almost every color from white to black-red
blac
including
tan and brown. They can be plain petaled and solid colored or have contrasting
con
throats and blotches. They can also have petals
ls that are so thick and ruffled
they look like they were carved from wax.
Gladiolus prefer full sun but will do well in an aarea
rea with late afternoon shade.
Good air circulation is also desirable. They will do well in a range of soil types,
but would like a soil pH of 6.77 to 7 and need good drainage. Any soil that can grow a good crop of vegetables
will grow gladiolus. Prepare the soil as yyou would for any other garden. Only work composted manure or
leaves into the soil the fall before you plant.
When selecting corms, plant only
nly clean, plump healthy corms. Do not purchase or plant any that are misshapen,
misshape
dried out, or rotted. Plant corms after the soil has warmed - too early and they might rot. Make a trench in the
soil 3 to 5 inches deep, place corms
ms 4 to 6 inches apart. You can also place any systemic insecticide products in
the trench when you plant. Planting deeper and hilling up around the plants will pr
prevent
event glads from tipping
over. If you are planting cormels, soften the shell by soaking them in water with a bit of bleach added or
manually
lly crack open the hard shell. Don't damage the cormel. If you soak cormels rinse them in plain water
before planting.
Control weeds by shallow
ow cultivation or hand weeding. A light mulch to control weeds and conserve
co
moisture
could be used. If you have a large planting chemical weed prevention products are safe for gladiolus.
The most important insect pest for gladiolus is thrips. They can overwinter on corms or move in on the wind
after the weather warms. Their damage includes silver streaks on the foliage and distorted flowers. A systemic
insecticide can help control them. You can also spray or dust, but before you buy a product read the label and
make sure you will havee control of the problem insects.
If you want to save your corms you can dig them 6 to 8 weeks after bloom. Loosen the soil with a spade or
o
digging fork. Break off the top of the plant at ground level. Remove plant tops from the garden to prevent
disease. Clean the soil off the corms if needed and lay the
them out in shallow trays to dry. About 4 weeks after
a
digging clean your corms. The
he new corm should sepa
separate from the old corm and roots. You can also save the
cormels to plant next year.
Store corms in a cool area,
rea, 38 to 58 degrees is best. Cooler temperatures
mperatures are best but do not let your corms
freeze. The area should have good air ci
circulation. After the corms are cleaned they could be lightly dusted with
a fungicide/insecticide dust. Place in shallow trays, mesh bags, or open paper bags. Do not seal your corms in
bags. Make sure they do not dry out, you may need to place a pail of water near
nearby
by to add humidity to the air.
When planting time comes in spring the cycle be
begins again.
-Source - Joy's personal experience and www.gladworld.org
2
June Gardening Tips
Fertilize Containers - Annual flowers respond well to adding
a diluted fertilizer when watering. A slow release fertilizer may
also be added to the soil mix for continual feeing.
New Trees & Shrubs - Water is critical to young trees and
shrubs. Use a soaker hose at the base for a long, thorough
watering. Mulch with 3 to 4 inches of shredded bark to
conserve moisture and protect roots.
Pest Alert! - Check pine trees for sawfly larvae feeding on new growth. Knock them off the tree with a
concentrated spray of water from your garden hose.
Train Your Lawn - Water lawns deeply and infrequently to encourage deep rooting. Shallow watering results
in root growth in only the top few inches of soil, and plants are unable to survive hot, dry conditions in midsummer.
Kids & Gardens - Plant warm season vegetables together in early June - fast-growing bush beans, carrots,
beets, green onions, and summer squash. Laminate seed packets for long-lasting plant labels.
Houseplants - Move houseplants outdoors to have them put on abundant growth. This is a little like giving
them an extravagant meal after having been on half rations for the winter. Avoid placing in direct sunlight when
first moved out as this will burn the leaves which are adapted to much lower light levels.
Source: Minnesota Gardening 2016 Calendar and Minnesota Landscape Arboretum and University of Minnesota
Extension
Pick Your Own Strawberry Patch
by Cathi Fesenmaier, Renville County Master Gardener
Grandma & Grandpa's Berries n More - Pick-your-own strawberries is just
south of Olivia; 80400 US Highway 71, on the east side of 71. They are
new this year so if you want to know what they have available please call (507) 430-1433. They also
have a website to check out at: www.GGBerriesNMore.com and are on Facebook: GGBerriesNMore
The strawberries in their patch are the varieties of JUNE BEARING: Honeoye, Jewel and Gurneys
Whopper, and EVERBEARING: Seascape and Pine Berry
A little bit of info they include in their flier states; "We have been blessed with the love of gardening
and enjoying the fruits of our labor through winter months as do many of our family members near and
far. We bring this love and passion we have for gardening into our business every day." They will
also have a large variety of other vegetables available for sale when in season, so check them out.
3
Mosquitoes and Zika virus: What you should know
by Jeffrey Hahn, Extension Entomologist
Mosquito season is just around the corner for us here in Minnesota. Most of us know the drill when mosquitoes arrive; wear
protective clothes and use repellents to protect ourselves from these biting menaces.
There is added concern this summer as we not only worry about mosquitoes but are also anxious about the Zika virus
(Zika). Zika has been talked about a lot in the media especially with the upcoming summer Olympics in Brazil. People want
to know whether they are at risk here and what can they do to protect themselves.
Fortunately, the threat of Zika in Minnesota right now is negligible. In fact Zika has not
been found locally in any state in the U.S. so far. However, the potential does exist for
the virus to be a problem in this country. The mosquito primarily associated with
transmitting Zika, the yellow fever mosquito, Aedes aegypti, is found in the southern
and eastern areas of the U.S. but is not known in Minnesota. A second species, the
Asian tiger mosquito, A. albopictus, has also been implicated in transmission of Zika; it
too is found in warmer areas of the country but is not established in Minnesota.
Yellow fever mosquito, the primary
The biggest risk to Minnesotans are to those that travel to countries where Zika is
vector of Zika virus.
known to be present - primarily South and Central America into Mexico as well as
some areas of the Caribbean. There have been 17 cases of Minnesotans contracting Zika due to travel to these areas.
Fortunately in most cases, the symptoms of Zika are mild and many people may not even realize they were ever infected.
The symptoms people do experience are usually fever, rash, joint pain, and conjunctivitis (red eyes). This illness normally
lasts for several days to a week after they have been bitten by an infected mosquito.
However, a more important concern is the potential for pregnant women to become infected. Zika can be passed on from
the mother to the fetus. There is increasing evidence that there is a link between Zika and microcephaly, a condition that
causes babies to be born with heads and brains smaller than expected. There is even additional evidence that infected men
can sexually transmit Zika to
woman. Additionally, there is a link
between Zika and Guillain-Barré
syndrome
If you are staying put in Minnesota
and not traveling out of the state,
your risk to Zika is extremely
minimal. Protect yourself from
mosquitoes as you would normally.
Keep in mind that there is a risk of
other mosquito transmitted
diseases in Minnesota, such as
west Nile virus.
The current range of the yellow
fever mosquito in the U.S. and the
potential risk for major U.S. cities.
4
If you are planning an international trip, be aware of where Zika is found and take the proper precautions if you
visit such a country. Presently, there is no vaccine to prevent Zika but there are steps you can take to help
prevent mosquito bites. Use personal protection, including long pants, long-sleeved shirts, and repellents, like
DEET. Be sure to protect yourself during the day as that is when mosquitoes that transmit Zika are active.
If you are a pregnant woman protect yourself against mosquitoes in Zika risk areas. Practice safe sex to protect
against potentially passing on Zika to her from her partner by correctly using condoms during any sexual activity.
Abstaining from sex is the safest option to protect against Zika.
For more information about Zika, see the Centers of Disease Control and Prevention website at:
http://www.cdc.gov/zika/index.html
Renville County Extension Master Gardeners Are Recognized
Two Renville County Extension Master Gardeners were recently recognized for their contributions to the
Extension Master Gardener program.
Joy Clobes, Fairfax, completed training in 2001
and was recognized for 15 Years of Service (Joy
is very active in the Minnesota State Gladiolus
Association and exhibits award winning
displays at the Renville County Fair and the
Minnesota State Fair.)
Susan Haubrich, Danube, completed training in
2006 and was recognized for 10 Years of Service.
(Suzy has worked with many youth and adult
groups in the county sharing her knowledge on
"Milk Jug Planting" and teaching youth about bee
pollination and other topics related to gardening.)
The awards are based on hours reported as of December 31, 2015. Both Master Gardeners have already
begun adding to their contributions in 2016.
To become an Extension Master Gardener, you must be trained and certified by the University of Minnesota.
The Core Course consists of 48 hours of classroom instruction conducted by University of Minnesota Extension
faculty members. Following the classroom training, Interns are required to volunteer 50 hours the first year
and 25 hours annually thereafter. Renville County Master Gardeners are also asked to participate in
continuing education of five hours per year. Core course training is held annually during the winter and held as
on-line training or in-person training. If you are interested in becoming an Extension Master Gardener, contact
a local Extension Master Gardener or the Renville County Extension Office at 320-523-3713 or 800-450-2522.
Registration deadline for 2017 training is October 1, 2016.
http://www.facebook.com/EMGRenCo
Meet the Renville County Master Gardeners
Jane Aalderks – Maynard; Louise Schweiss Anderson – Fairfax; Lindsey Caraway (Intern) - Renville, Joy Clobes - Fairfax; Sandy
Feldman (Intern) - Renville, Cathi Fesenmaier – Olivia; Erin Grams – Hector; Susan Haubrich - Danube; Betsy Hennen – Olivia; Jan
Howell - Olivia; Pam McColley - Franklin; Linda McGraw - Buffalo Lake, Connie Schmoll, Olivia, and Alica Whitmore (Intern) - Echo.
The University of Minnesota is committed to the policy that all persons shall have equal access to its programs, facilities, and employment without regard to race, color, creed, religion,
national origin, sex, age, marital status, disability, public assistance status, veteran status, or sexual orientation.
5
Another insect for your garden ...
and they like your raspberries
by Joy Clobes, Renville County Master Gardener
The Spotted wing Drosophila is a native of Asia. They were first found
in North America in 2008 and were first found in MN in 2012, and have
been reported in Renville County. They are small flies, similar to
household fruit flies. The male has a black spot on each wing thus the
common name. Their larvae (or maggots) have a small whitish,
cylindrical body.
The adults lay their eggs in soft fruit where the larvae develop. The
larvae are those little white things you see in your raspberries. The
larvae leave the fruit to pupate and the life cycle can be completed in
as little as seven days. The population will be the highest in August to September. Spotted wing
Drosophila overwinters as an adult however it is not known if they can survive MN winters.
The insect attacks soft, thin-skinned fruit like raspberries,
blueberries, grapes and cherries. The larvae feed on the fruit
causing brown sunken areas. The fruit are most susceptible to
infestation when color starts to develop until the end of harvest.
Start monitoring for the flies when the fruit sets until the end of
harvest. To monitor for insects use yellow sticky cards you can find
at garden supply companies or from Gemplers
(http://www.gemplers.com/). You can also make a trap using a
clear plastic cup with a cover. Punch some holes and use wire to
make a hanger and punch a few small holes to permit only small flies in. Pour an inch of apple cider
vinegar in to use as bait. Add a drop of unscented dish soap or place a yellow sticky card in to
capture the flies. When you find the first fly begin treating for insects.
You will need to apply an insecticide more than once to protect your fruit. Insecticides target the
adults before they lay their eggs and will not control the larvae. Once the fruit is infested sanitation is
the best control to prevent the larvae from emerging. Effective insecticides include Pyrethrin,
Spinosad, Malathion, and Permethrin. Read the label and pay attention to the times between last
application and harvest. You can also use fine mesh netting and create a small high tunnel or floating
row covers to exclude the adult insects. One drawback would be opening the mesh to harvest and
providing insects access to the berries.
Sanitation is necessary to reduce the buildup of insect populations. Frequently harvest ripe fruit and
remove and destroy any old fruit that remains on the stems and falls to the ground. Infested or fallen
fruit should be placed in a clear plastic bag and sealed tightly. Place the bag outdoors in the sun to
kill flies in the bag. Composting and burying infested materials are unreliable in killing insects.
If your fruit looks fine but you still suspect it is infested, place it in the refrigerator. Chilling can slow or
stop developing larvae. The fruit is safe to eat.
For more information or pictures check out extension.umn.edu and go into the garden and insects
sections.
6
Now is the time to harvest the rhubarb
stalks. Make sure to harvest before the
end of June. Stalks picked later can be
tough and not as sweet.
Mulching the garden is a great way to hold
off weeds and hold in moisture.
Depending on the type of mulch you use, a
layer of 2 to 3 inches is optimal. Mulch that
is any deeper than that may interfere with
airflow to the soil. This is especially true
with very dense mulches such as large
wood chips or rock.
If your rhubarb is taking over the garden,
now is also the time to divide it. Plants that
are four to five years old benefit from
division. Use a sharp shovel to divide the
plant in half. Dig up one half (or the entire
plant, if you're relocating it) and gently
examine the root system. If there is no
damage or disease, you're ready to plant in
the new location. If you want to put off
dividing the plant until after harvest, wait
until fall for the task.
When applying mulch, be sure not to place
it right next to the base of plants, shrubs or
trees. Leaving the soil exposed next to the
plant allows for better airflow and can
make watering easier. It can also help
keep insects away from the base of the
tree or plant.
-Source - Minnesota Gardener
7