- Ludwig Reiter

SPRING / SUMMER
2014
With Ludwig Reiter, light feet through the summer’s heat.
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ThE dESERT I’vE aLWayS LovEd
SITTING oN a SaNd dUNE
SEEING NoThING, hEaRING NoThING
WhILE SoMEThING
ShIMMERS IN ThE SILENcE.
antoine de Saint-Exupéry
Light summer shoes—whether formal, elegant, leisurely
or sporty—constitute one of the traditions of the viennese
shoemaking art maintained and further developed by Ludwig
Reiter and which, given global warming, will also continue in
the future.
ThESE ModELS aRE MadE PERfEcTLy To
SURvIvE UNhaRMEd EvEN ThE hoTTEST
SUMMER, To IGNoRE ThE PaNNoNIaN hEaT aT
vIENNESE hEURIGERS aNd IN SIdEWaLk caféS
aNd To aPPEaR STyLISh IN ThE cooL of
SUMMER bETWEEN SaLzkaMMERGUT aNd SyLT.
oR SITTING oN a dUNE To REad Wind, Sand
and StarS.
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canaletto (1697–1768): doge’s Palace, venice
caNaLETTo’S caMERa
The perforation typical for this light, well-ventilated summer shoe recalls
the camera obscura the painter canaletto used: the light entering through
a small hole in a box projected an image of the object onto its transparent
back wall. The famous master used this camera obscura in order to give his
urban vistas photorealistic precision and alluring wealth of detail.
PS: Naturally the canaletto can also be worn outside venice.
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caNaLETTo
R0249-bak.Rf-13, MEN
aniline box calf, perforated, welted, leather-lined,
5-hole lacing, Salzburg lasts and leather outer soles.
S8249-vST-LI, LadIES
Perforated suede, flexibly sewn, leather-lined,
4-hole lacing, leather outer soles with non-slip
rubber insert, and elegant vienna lasts.
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... with soles as white as blossoms.
fLEET afooT
In these featherweight sports shoes, she overcomes more than one obstacle fleetingly,
not only on the centre court. Even other, no less strenuous summer labours,
exploring the ruins of knossos, sauntering along the Promenade des anglais in
Nice or even the nocturnal Piazza del campo in Siena become effortless.
The new delicate ladies’ lasts lend one—as they say in vienna—a “slender
look”, hence always a fine figure for the wearer of this model. And thanks to the
blossom-white outer sole, wherever she appears with these shoes, she leaves, not a
trace, but a lasting impression.
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SkIPPER
Sports and sailing shoe, side-stitched, non-slip, rubber
outer soles are white—and therefore “without a trace”;
foot-friendly leather lining.
T554-NcP, LadIES (above)
Ladies model mounted on a new delicate last,
sporty nappa calf, colour: pearl white.
T554-vRN, LadIES/MEN (left)
Suede, colour: navy.
adRIaTIc
T556-vST, LadIES/MEN
ankle-high sports and sailing shoe, slender ladies lasts,
supple suede, leather-lined, side-stitched, white outer
soles; colour: tobacco.
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ornament is no crime– vienna’s St. Michael’s church and the Loos house.
PEakS aNd hoLES
“but I have only one condition. The shoe must be sleek.”
adolf Loos hated what he considered criminal ornamentation so much that
he was prepared to pay his shoemaker 40 crowns instead of 30 for the omission
of the usual decorations.
“I had pushed him from the holiest heights into the Tartarus. he had less work,
but I had taken away all his joy.”
Ultimately Loos had to show sympathy with the poor man and let him work: “My
shoes are covered over and over with ornaments coming from holes and peaks.”
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bUdaPESTER
Ludwig Reiter’s interpretation of the English full
brogue: derby form with open lacing, wing-tipped cap
with rosette perforation (bout fleurie), with viennese
Wiener edge with jagged upper leather and lyre
perforation.
R016-vTT.Rf-1-c, MEN (above)
Suede, welted, leather-lined and leather soles.
S816-vMM-LI, LadIES (right)
Suede, flexibly sewn, leather-lined, leather soles with
non-slip rubber insert.
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Seen in the London design Museum: the “Trainer” in olive/orange.
PaSSIoNaTE coLLEcTIoN
The “Trainer” is an advanced descendant of that athletic shoe that Ludwig
Reiter adopted more than 20 years ago from the Upper austrian work boot
factory kitzmantel, where it had been manufactured for many years to supply
the austrian military. In the mid-1990s it started a “retro” athletic shoe wave
and soon became a cult object for insiders. The canadian journalist and
designer Tyler brûlé even exhibited them in the London design Museum along
with 99 more of his “favourite things”. The fact that this traditional product is
made in new colour and leather variations every season benefits those Ludwig
Reiter customers who would rather collect “Trainers” than coins or stamps.
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TRaINER
comfortable and leisurely retro athletic shoe, reinforced
toecap, cushioned heel, side-stitched double stripes,
leather-lined, and army training soles.
T512-NcP-vST.c (above)
Sport nappa leather, pearl white/tobacco
T512-bI-bo (left side)
bookbinder calf, olive/orange
T512-vRN-vSP
Suede, marine blue/pearl white
T512-vST-vMh.c
Suede, tobacco/heaven
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T512-vTQ-vMy.c
Suede, grey/yellow
Summer feats accomplished.
SaNdPIPER
hercules completed twelve labours, alexander conquered half of asia,
Jesus became the foundation of a world religion, the Romans marched as
far as Northern England and Gandhi beat the british: with sandals on the
feet, anything is possible.
Thus even the superhuman summer challenges of our time—like beach
strolls, surviving barbeques, the endless waiting for sunset or the march to
the next trattoria—can be accomplished heroically.
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MaGhREbIaN
S.261-cPM, MEN
If the feet are already bare, then at least in these
sandals! Ultimately the man of the world appears
in true style, even in summer: Sandals made of
very rare and luxurious shell cordovan, very comfortable to wear, robust, through-stitched leather
soles, bottoms oiled for water-resistance—in case
the flood is too early...
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The catalonian (vineyard) peasant’s shoe.
caTaLoNIaN aNcESToRS
The ancestors of this light summer model are the simple ordinary shoes
of catalonian and balearic peasants, originally made with a cloth upper
bound to a sole of woven esparto grass, from whence today’s common
name for this shoe type comes:
Espardenyes (catalonian), alpargatas (Spanish), Espadrilles (Provencal).
Even if adapted by Ludwig Reiter, sewn with durable suede and furnished
with waterproof crêpe soles, these models remain true to their origin—and
retain an aesthetic of simplicity.
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aNdaLUSIaN
T500-vMM
Light lace-up shoe made of soft, comfortable suede,
crêpe outer soles, trimmed around with jute ribbon,
leather-lined—also pleasant to wear without socks.
caSTILIaN
T506-vST
Mid-high lace-up shoes made of soft suede, crêpe
outer soles, jute ribbon, and absorbent leather
lining (ideal shoe climate, even in summer).
ESPadRILLo
Light (footed) summer moccasin made of soft suede,
waterproof crêpe outer soles, trimmed around with jute
ribbon, breathable leather lining.
T501-vMy (yellow)
T501-vML (bright green)
T501-vRN (navy)
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birthplace of the loafer: North american Ivy League universities.
ThE bEST aNd bRIGhTEST
The loafer is one of the few genuinely North american shoe models: This
comfortable slip-on shoe inspired by the Indian moccasin was first
manufactured some 100 years ago in the USa and became fashionable among
students at Ivy League universities in the 1930s, well fitting the informal style of
life and attire of the “best and brightest”.
It was from these elite institutions, exemplary even in their leisure fashion, that
the loafer too came to conquer Europe after 1945.
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kILT-LoafER
Typical characteristics of this loafer model are the moccasin
seam on the forefoot, an instep strap with side buckle and the
long, folded tongue, trimmed with fringe (“kiltie”), adopted
from the classic golf shoe.
S747-vMS-LI, LadIES (above)
Suede, flexibly sewn, leather-lined, and leather outer soles with
non-slip rubber insert.
R347-RPc.LN-14, MEN (left)
Robust pull-up calf with vintage look, welted, leather-lined,
leather outer soles.
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Even beyond the realm of sports, the quality of the shoe plays a major role: Paul breitner.
TURf SPoRT
In his previous profession shoes were the most important tool and therefore made
with correspondingly high quality: No one can become football champion in
Europe, Germany or Spain with anything cheap on the feet. Now the ball is
much smaller. There is no team playing for the great goal, instead it’s fighting
alone against 18 little holes, instead of passing, it’s pitches and putts. Still as far
as shoes are concerned the former professional football player and meanwhile
amateur golfer, Paul breitner, is as uncompromising as ever: This Ludwig Reiter
model, with properties adopted from classic golf shoes, such as the best possible
leather, careful craftsmanship, and high degree of comfort, are also highly prized
shoe qualities beyond the realm of sports.
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GoLfER
Sporty and elegant leisure shoe, a form inspired by the
classic golf shoes of the 1920s and 1930s. characteristic:
striking cord seam on the vamp—the passepoil.
R028-vMM.Rf-2-kcc, MEN (above)
Suede, welted, leather-lined, non-slip crêpe soles.
R028-bak.Rf-17, MEN (left)
aniline box calf, welted, leather-lined, leather all-weather
soles sewn with rubber outer soles.
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Tracking monks: former carthusian monastery Santa Maria d’Escaladei in Priorat, Spain.
SPIRITUaL SPaRkS
beyond the gate to enlightenment shines the bright light of truth.
Whoever does not intend to undertake his pilgrimage (and profane path)
barefooted like a penitent best chooses a “Monk” as alternative.
although produced by Ludwig Reiter entirely in the terrestrial realm, there is still
a quantum of monastic essence emitting from a kind of spiritual spark, recalling
what is common in the style of all “Monk” shoes—the side buckle—from the
sandals of religious brothers.
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bENEdIcTINE
R311-RPd.Wf-1, MEN
applied toe and heel caps, pull-up cowhide in vintage
look, welted, leather-lined and leather outer soles.
SaLESIaN
R2128-vMd.PG-1, MEN
aUGUSTINIaN
R822-RPc.da-1-LI, LadIES
caPUchIN
S812-vRN.da-13, LadIES
Striking cord seam on the
forefoot, suede, welted, leatherlined and leather outer soles.
a touch of “baroque”, wing
and heel caps with generous
perforation, pull-up calf in vintage
look, welted, leather-lined and
leather outer soles.
blessed with simplicity and
clarity, smooth forefoot, suede,
flexibly sewn, leather-lined and
leather outer soles.
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a shoe for a thousand miles.
ThE dUST of coUNTRy RoadS
There was once a time when country roads were dusty. There were neither
parking aids nor overtaking assistance, interval warning systems, blind spot
monitors or cruise control, and the driver really needed drive to swerve the wheel
without power steering.
Then the ideal shoe for motoring was plain, soft, comfortable and simultaneously
robust, protecting the ankle, while fast and easy to tie. It had no deep tread so
as to avoid getting caught on the pedals, was made of suede for easy care—and
looked damned good.
Nothing has changed for Ludwig Reiter’s auto shoe since.
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aUTo ShoES
Soft suede, smooth forefoot, flexibly sewn, leather-lined,
crêpe soles, 3-hole lacing.
S3703-vTT-kc, MEN
(antelope)
S9703-vST.dWS-6R-kh, LadIES
S3703-vMd-kc, MEN
(tobacco)
(dark brown)
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LUdWIG REITER
SToRES
aUSTRIa
vienna, Mölkersteig 1, +43/1 533 420 422
vienna, führichgasse 6, +43/1 512 61 46
vienna, Wiedner hauptstraße 41, +43/1 505 82 58
vienna, Weingartenallee 2, factory Store, +43/1 2559 300 61
Salzburg, Goldgasse 3, +43/662 870 580
Graz, Sackstraße 12, +43/316 825 416
GERMaNy
berlin, kurfürstendamm 50, +49/30 886 81 776
hamburg, hohe bleichen 19, +49/40 357 12 930
düsseldorf, königsallee 6-8, +49/211 323 91 10
frankfurt, Rathenauplatz 1, +49/69 282 066
Munich, burgstraße 8, +49/89 943 01 370
Stuttgart, calwer Straße 27, +49/711 722 318 38
SWITzERLaNd
zurich, Wühre 9, +41/43 497 24 94
GREaT bRITaIN
London, 6, brook Street, +44/203 302 3421
SoUTh koREa
hyundai department Store
Seoul (coEX), 159-7 Samsung-dong +83/3467 8748
kressl/Emerschitz. Photo credits: G. kressl; State Library of New South Wales. Illustration: G. Matern.
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