Tanks Again KN - The Sewing Workshop

Tanks Again
By Linda Lee
The Tank
What did we do before tanks? Now
we wear them as an undergarment,
an accent piece under a jacket, or a
singular cool item of clothing.
Whatever your preference, the
Ann’s Tank pattern, a companion
piece to Ann’s Cardigan, is the
perfect all-purpose tank.
In this tutorial, you will find
inspirational ideas for finishing the
edges, and view some variations in
shape and style, too.
Ann’s Cardigan and Tank
Raw Edges
Leaving edges raw is an
acceptable form of “sewing” today.
Don’t tell our 7th-grade sewing
teachers, though.
Since the recommended fabric for
Ann’s Tank is a knit, the edges won’t
ravel. And if it’s a jersey, the edges
will curl.
If you feel that the edges need to
be stabilized, sew a line of straight
stitches about 3/8” from the raw
edges.
Use the right edge of your presser foot as a
guide to sew an even distance from the raw
edge. Move the needle position to get the
distance that you want from the edge.
Serged Edges
Serging is considered decorative,
and it is most attractive when the
tensions are adjusted to form a flat
and balanced line of stitches.
Use either a 3-thread or 4-thread
stitch formation.
4-thread stitch formation is slightly more stable
than 3-thread.
Add a line of topstitching next to
the serging to finish and stabilize
the edges even more.
3-thread stitch formation with a line of straight
stitches to stabilize the edge.
Cover Stitching
Cover stitching is used
extensively in ready-to-wear. Now
we can achieve the same look in
our own sewing.
Buy a dedicated cover stitch
machine, or buy a serger that has a
cover stitch feature. This is usually
available in “top-of-the-line”
sergers, and requires changing
some settings plus other pieces
and parts.
Cover Stitch Machine
Right Side
Wrong Side
A double row of stitching shows on
the right side, and the interlaced stitch
that is formed on the wrong side just
covers the raw edge of the hem.
Turned and Stitched
For a more finished look,
turn the edge to the wrong side
and topstitch.
Try turning the edge more
than the final hem width,
topstitch, and then trim the
excess fabric near the
stitching.
Use appliqué scissors to trim close to the
stitching. This duck bill shape of the scissors
prevents cutting through the garment portion.
Double Fold and Zigzag
This finish looks professional and
supports the edges really well. No
raw edges!
Staystitch a finished hem’s width
away from the raw edge.
Press the hem to the wrong side
along the staystitching line.
Fold to the wrong side again and
zigzag stitch along the folded edge.
Straddle the fold evenly with your presser foot so
that one-half of the zigzag is on the fold and onehalf is off of the fold and on the garment. This will
prevent tunneling between the stitches.
Traditional Bias Binding
Traditional single bias binding is
the most common finish for
necklines and armholes.
There is a raw edge to trim on the
inside of the garment.
Some traditional bindings look
bulky and they can be tricky to
wrap evenly, depending on the
fabric choices.
When using a knit for binding, cut the strips on the
crossgrain. This is the direction on a knit that generally
has the most stretch. There is no need to use true bias.
It just wastes fabric.
Finish Combo
It is absolutely fine to use more
than one edge finish within the
same garment.
You may want to leave some
edges raw, and bind, turn and stitch
or serge others.
The fabric may dictate what finish
you use and where. Or you simply
prefer different looks for different
applications - curved vs. straight
edges, necklines that need to be
stabilized with loose flowing
hemlines that need no finish. The
choice is yours!
Bind the neckline using a fairly wide binding and turn
and stitch the armholes for an almost invisible look.
Ready-to-Wear Binding
The traditional method of
wrapping a raw edge with binding is
more difficult to do when working
with a knit (especially curly ones),
so I like this method which I call
Ready-to-Wear Binding.
It lies flatter and is easier to keep
an even width.
You can make the binding any
width you desire, from very narrow
to extra wide.
The inside of the binding looks nice and neat, too.
Topstitch farther from the ditch on a
narrow binding to achieve this look.
READY-TO-WEAR METHOD
Neck and Armhole Binding
Mark the Stitching Line
Fold the binding in half. Use a
clear ruler to accurately mark a
line ⅜" (or whatever finished
width of binding that you want)
from the folded edge. Do not
be tempted to follow the cut
edge—it may be slightly
uneven. The part of the binding
that will show is from the fold to
the chalk line.
Mark ⅜" from the fold.
Use a Quilt ’n Sew Clear Ruler and a Chakoner
for accurate and easy marking.
READY-TO-WEAR METHOD
Neck and Armhole Binding
Divide the Binding into Quarters
Lay the binding on a flat surface.
Place a pin at the seam and the
opposite fold. Reposition the
binding by stacking these pins
on top of each other and place
pins on the new folds.
FOLDED EDGE
CUT EDGE
Prepare the Neck and Armhole Edges on the Garment Body
Divide the neck and armhole openings into quarters starting at the center front
and center back of the neckline and the side seam of the armhole.
READY-TO-WEAR METHOD
Neck and Armhole Binding
Sew the Binding to the Neck and Armholes
Pin the binding to the right side of the
garment by matching the pins.
Hold the garment at the pins and stretch
gently until the binding matches the garment
edge. Stitch on the chalk line—from one set
of pins to the next. Keep an eye on the left
side of the presser foot to make sure it is
always an even distance from the folded
edge.
FOLDED EDGE
CUT EDGE
Or my favorite - align the left side of the
presser foot with the folded edge and move
the needle position to the right or left .
NEEDLE TO RIGHT
READY-TO-WEAR METHOD
Neck and Armhole Binding
Serge the Raw Edges
Use a 3 or 4-thread stitch to serge the
raw edges of the binding and garment.
This is delicate work! Work slowly and
carefully! Check frequently to be sure
that the garment will not get caught by
the serger knife.
If you do not have access to a serger,
trim the raw edges neatly.
It is imperative to keep checking to make sure the
serger is not catching the garment!!!
READY-TO-WEAR METHOD
Neck and Armhole Binding
Edgestitch
Move the needle position to the left of the center
position. You will be stitching next to the well of
the seam through the garment and the seam
allowance.
It is extremely important to keep checking to
make sure the seam allowance is away from the
binding and towards the garment.
The fabric often tries to creep ahead of the
presser foot. Occasionally lifting the presser foot
and re-positioning the fabric helps to avoid this.
Stitch just to the left of the seam ditch.
READY-TO-WEAR METHOD
Neck and Armhole Binding
Steam the Binding
Place the opening over the
tailor's ham. Lightly steam and
finger press only. Shape the
binding to a smooth curve.
Don’t move the garment until
it is dry.
Combine the steam of the iron and the
pressure from your fingers to create a
smooth, professional neckline.
Pleated Ruffle
Cut a contrasting piece of knit 1”
wide by the circumference of the
neckline x 2.5.
Working on an ironing surface,
hand pleat the fabric in 3/8”-wide
folds that touch one another. Press
the folds in place as you go.
Raw Edges
To hold the pleats in place, fuse
strips of Knit Hem Tape (a tricot,
knitted product) to the center of the
pleated strip on the wrong side.
Fusible Knit Hem Tape
Pin the pleated strip to the
neckline and sew two parallel rows
of topstitching.
Things get easier if you place the tank on a
dressform, and then pin the pleated strip in
place before topstitching.
Studs and Glitter
Add crystals and other glue-on or
sew-on elements to the neckline for
a real designer touch.
I used the Bejeweler Stone Styler
tool to apply Swarovski Hotfix
rhinestones to the neckline of this
Ann’s Tank. It as so easy!
Looks just like Eileen Fisher’s $200. tank!
Tool available at www.bullarddesigns.com
Fun Variations
Add Sleeves
The sleeve pattern included in the
pattern for Ann’s Cardigan fits nicely
into the tank armhole.
Make the sleeves any length - short
to long and anywhere in between.
Sheer mesh binding.
This sequined-covered knit makes a great
holiday top to wear with dressy pants or jeans.
Fun Variations
Double Layer
Fabric too sheer? Make two
tanks and bind together at the neck
and armholes.
Or use two different fabrics,
perhaps a knit and a mesh.
Construct them as if you were
making two tanks. Then finish the
neck and armholes together as one.
When using a mesh or sheer for the outer
tank, cut the outer tank 2” shorter or more
(or lengthen the under tank).
Fun Variations
Sew Up the Side Seams
In the normal construction of the
tank, the side seams are left open
for about 6” to create openings
with “tails”.
You can completely sew the side
seams, leaving closed tails, or
taper the side seams to re-shape
the shirt entirely.
This is the tank
with its “tails”
This version, with re-shaped side seams,
looks more like a basic t-shirt.
Fun Variations
Tunic Length
Lengthen the pattern to your desired
tunic length.
This tank has been lengthened 7 1/2”
at the center front and 9” at the center
back to create a tunic.
Connect the new center front and
center back lines perpendicular to the
side seams. Extend the side seams to
meet the new hemlines.
The back of this tunic has a soft curve at the
hemline and is 1 1/2” longer than the front.
Fun Variations
Dress Length
Lengthen the pattern to your preferred
dress length - mini to maxi.
Cut off the tank to make a skirt!
Look for the eDress pattern to download
from www.sewingworkshop.com. We’ve
done the work for you!
Dark Stripe
Fun Variations
Light Stripe
Blocked
Use the template below
as a guide to cut your
pattern into sections.
If using a stripe, change
the grainlines to mix up the
angles.
Add a raw-edged faux
placket and buttons.
Interface it first.
Piece the binding to strategically change
colors. Use the dark stripe on one side
and the light stripe on the other.
Fun Variations
Inspirations from Ready-to-Wear
Thanks to Anthropologie for these flouncy looks.
www.anthropologie.com
Tanks Again
By Linda Lee