Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

Transcription

http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/Top Challen...
Web page created 07/17/09
Last updated 9/21/2012
(c) 2009-2012 M. W. Davis
Some or many of these tips and tricks you may already know of, some you would never have discovered.
Some info listed in the information following is in fact in the 2008 - 2012 Challenger's Owner's
Manuals, -but- for some reason many people just cannot find it. Some of the information is specific for the
R/T or SRT8 model or universal across the Dodge LC and/or LX platform.
Depending on EVIC (CNN) software versions some of the EVIC tips work, some don’t but there is a variety of
different ones to try on your model year vehicle.
This list will be expanded as time goes by and I compile collected information or folks pass tips onto me.
Also included below are some frequently asked questions on our Challengers and very good and hard to
find documentation.
I also have now listed the compilation into categories and sub-category listings to aid in helping structure this
growing list.
If you have a tip or see a typo or have updated information, send me an email via the link at the bottom of this
page.
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Web Layout - Copyright (c) 2009-2012 Marvin Davis
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
Here are the current following general "main" categories for listed information;
1. Vehicle Quick Reference
5. Engine
9. Transmission and Related
2. Electrical and Related
6. Interior and Related
10. Misc., Aftermarket &
Catalog Items
3. MyGig and NAV/RBZ Radio
related
7. Products and Uses
11. Video Documentary, etc.
4. Exterior
8. Wheels, Tires &
Suspension
Categories;
(1) Vehicle Quick Reference;
Diagnostics and related;
Tip:1 How to Display/Decode Diagnostic Trouble Codes
Tip:3 Extended EVIC Menu Access
Tip:4 Enable/Disable Economy Mode Display
Tip:7 Odometer Stick Pin Button Options
Tip:19 EVIC Compass Calibration
Tip:12 Disable Seat Belt Reminder
Tip:15 ESP and Cruise Control
Tip:17 Cruise Control Operations
Tip:21 Turn Signal Bulbs Out Warning
Tip:24 Dash and Panel Lights Parade Mode (and other dimmer features)
Tip:25 Top Speed Display on the R/T
Tip:26 Turn Signal Warning
Tip:27 Door Lock Modes
Tip:30 Extended EVIC trip pin trick
Tip:31 Keyless Entry Start and CEL
Tip:33 Cluster Range Diagnostic. (Works on all LX models)
Tip:34 Odometer Trip button on non EVIC
Tip:38 Reset the "Oil Change Required" message in the EVIC:
Tip:51 Event Data Recorder (EDR): What you need to know!
Tip:84 Speedometer Verification (Extended EVIC)
Tip:86 Dodge Challenger Instrument Cluster "Self Test" Procedure
Tip:91 Battery Reconnection Procedure (reset DDM, PDM, & SCM's)
Tip:95 Remote Start Function Inhibitors!
Tip:121 Transmission Control Module (TCM) - Limp Mode(s)
Tip:148 Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC)
Tip:164 Emergency or Valet key use and VTSS
Tip:208 Keyless Entry System Exposed
Documents - Manuals, Dealer Brochures, Sales Documents, etc.
Tip:23 Free Dodge Owners Manuals
Tip:57 Documents - Owner's Manuals, Dealer/Sales Documents, etc.
Tip:71 TSB, RRT and RECALL’s (General terminology)
Tip:78 DODGE Acronyms Decrypted
Tip:96 What does the term FOB, KEYFOB or FOBIK mean?
Tip:102 2009 Dodge Challenger Final Sales Figures
Tip:153 Dodge Challenger TSB, RRT and Safety Recall List
Tip:171 NHTSA Door Safety Label Info (FMVSS)
Tip:174 NHTSA complaints for Dodge Challenger
Fluid Specifications
Tip:47 HOAT Engine Coolant!
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Tip:54 Challenger Fluid Capacities - SPECIFICATIONS
Tip:185 Rear End Lubrication/Service Interval
Fuse Locations and Types
Tip:55 R/T and SRT Electrical Distribution Center Information
Hoisting and Jacking Warnings
Tip:53 HOISTING: Challenger Lift Points, Proper-Safe Hoisting
Jump Starting
Tip:52 Jump starting Challenger - How To and Warnings
Vehicle Information, VIN decode, etc.
Tip:97 VIN PLATE DECODER
Tip:83 Vehicle Build Date
Tip:104 Dodge Challenger Parts Manuals 2008 - 2011
Tip:149 International Control and Display Symbols (Chrysler/Dodge)
Tip:189 Dodge Challenger Body Repair Manual
(2) Electrical and related;
Tip:2 Start Pushbutton Removal
Tip:5 Wipers - QuikWipe
Tip:6 Quick Lane Change
Tip:8 Headlight Flasher
Tip:10 DRL’s for Safety (Daytime Running Lights)
Tip:20 Watching EVIC while fueling
Tip:21 Turn Signal Bulbs Out Warning
Tip:22 Trunk OPEN operations
Tip:25 Top Speed Display on the R/T
Tip:28 Disable ESP/Traction in R/T
Tip:29 R/T and SE ESP "Key Tricks"
Tip:37 Windows "Express Down" using FOBIK.
Tip:41 DRL’s on CHALLENGER: How to ACTIVATE
Tip:44 Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) Tip
Tip:46 Smart Window Recalibration Procedure
Tip:49 Key FOB? Battery replacement? Dead FOBIK?
Tip:50 Automatic Unlock Doors on Exit Programming
Tip:52 Jump starting Challenger - How To and Warnings
Tip:55 R/T and SRT Electrical Distribution Center Information
Tip:58 2010 Owner's Manual Addendum/Radio Fuse
Tip:61 Challenger HORN operations
Tip:63 Headlights On with Wipers (Available Auto Headlights Only)
Tip:64 IPOD Integration cable goes where?
Tip:70 Locking Challenger without enabling VTSS (Alarm)
Tip:80 How to Adjust When Auto HID Headlights Turn On
Tip:85 PCM SETTINGS KEEPER
Tip:88 Mopar Electrical Connectors and Repair Kits site
Tip:89 Dodge Challenger CAN BUS Databus Communications Modules
Tip:94 Challenger Replacement Light Bulbs
Tip:106 HomeLink Wireless Control System
Tip:107 FOBIK (Key Fob) Repair and erratic operations
Tip:114 Personalize U-connect
Tip:117 KeylessGo and Keeloq Encryption/Cipher
Tip:118 Power Top Sunroof - Operations and Calibration
Tip:120 EVIC Chime Stack
Tip:123 KeyLess Go Ignition/Pushbutton functions
Tip:126 FOBIK "TRAPPED" IN WIN (Wireless Ignition Node)
Tip:128 Dash Power Plug Modification
Tip:133 Challenger CHIME WARNING SYSTEM
Tip:142 Keyless Go Button (Tech Tip & Operation Info)
Tip:143 How to Adjust When Auto HID Headlights turn on
Tip:145 USB power adapter/charger via Cigarette lighter plug
Tip:152 Dual Engine Bay Lighting Mod
Tip:156 Battery Maintenance and short/Long term vehicle storage
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Tip:162
Tip:165
Tip:168
Tip:172
Tip:175
Tip:177
Tip:191
Tip:201
Tip:204
Tip:208
FOBIK and PEM Radio Frequencies
PDC - Ignition Off Draw Fuse and usage
Low Fuel Indicator Light
New "Passive Entry" addition to Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) features for 2011
Steering Control Module (SCM)
ESP and Electronic Stability Program FAQ’s
How to wire AUTO ON heated seats when remote started
Is it possible to add the KeyLess GO System to an R/T?
FOBIK (Key Fob) disassembly, battery change.
Keyless Entry System Exposed
(3) MyGig and NAV/RBZ Radio related;
Tip:18 NAV Unit destination tip
Tip:48 Radio Identification Codes and Single or 6 Disc CD Player?
Tip:58 2010 Owner's Manual Addendum/Radio Fuse
Tip:87 MyGig Nav Voice System Tip
Tip:90 The Official and Unofficial MyGIG Information and Support Site's
Tip:130 Stuck CD in MyGig Multidisc player?
Tip:186 RBZ Radio loading multiple CD's issue and GraceNotes
Tip:187 MyGig NAV Screen "AutoMode"
(4) Exterior;
Tip:13 Ditch that Hood Prop Rod!
Tip:11 Fuel Cap Hanger and Low Fuel Warning
Tip:62 Locking GAS Cap
Tip:66 Functional Factory Hood Scoops for R/T’s
Tip:67 Challenger Splash Guards
Tip:68 Where to Find Your Vehicle Manufacture Date
Tip:77 How can I remove the factory stripes on my R/T?
Tip:82 2009 Dodge Challenger R/T: Suspension Article (Edmunds)
Tip:103 Washing and Draining Water from Door Mirrors
Tip:116 R/T and SRT front chin spoiler replacement
Tip:127 Push/Pop Pins, Plastic Rivets and Clip Replacements!
Tip:154 Installing Wing Spoiler on Dodge Challenger
Tip:160 Rams Head front hood badge removal and replacement
Tip:163 Dodge Challenger OEM touch up paint(s)
Tip:184 Center Taillight Assembly Removal
Tip:189 Dodge Challenger Body Repair Manual
Tip:202 Rear Taillight bulb replacement procedures
(5) Engine;
Tip:9 Factory Oil Filter Installation
Tip:39 Resetting NGC (PCM) Driver Fuel Adaptive’s
Tip:43 ETC Throttle Calibration/Characterization
Tip:45 MDS Reset & Calibration
Tip:69 Challenger Spark Plug Info!
Tip:75 Temperature Sensor Support on HEMI Engine
Tip:79 What is the Best Oil Filter for our Challenger?
Tip:98 Cooling Flow - 5.7L/6.1L HEMI Engines
Tip:108 The PCM - PowerTrain Control Module
Tip:119 TORQUE SPEC - Engine 5.7L and 6.1L
Tip:122 PCM MONITORED COMPONENT
Tip:125 Oil Change Required Light and how it works
Tip:134 EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM INTEGRITY MONITOR (ESIM)
Tip:141 Fumoto Oil Drain Valve on Dodge Challenger
Tip:155 Dyno and other speed/gear related software
Tip:158 FilterMag, Trans Pan Mag and Magnetic Oil Plug systems
Tip:159 EFI: Mass Flow vs. Speed Density (Fuel/Air Management)
Tip:166 Fuel System, Fuel Pump Module
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Tip:167
Tip:169
Tip:178
Tip:182
Tip:193
Tip:206
Tip:207
Fuel Correction or PCM adaptive Memories
Modes of Operation for the NGC (PCM)
ETC - Electronic Throttle Control
Copper Spark Plugs vs. Iridium and Platinum:
Oil fill and overflow warning!
Possible fuel/saddle tank level issue?
Throttle Body, maintenance and cleaning issues.
(6) Interior and related;
Tip:14 Extending Sun Visor
Tip:16 Trinket Tray Removal
Tip:32 Center Console Lid Trick
Tip:35 Air Conditioner.
Tip:36 Sun Roof Open Modes
Tip:42 Adding Cabin Air Filter
Tip:48 Radio Identification Codes and Single or 6 Disc CD Player?
Tip:65 HOT SURFACE WARNING - Under dash!
Tip:111 Push Button Start Overlay Trim
Tip:112 Electro Chromatic Mirror disable on Reverse feature
Tip:115 Rear Fold-down center arm rest removal
Tip:135 Challenger Trunk Cargo Net Mod
Tip:136 The Custom Ultraviolet Sunshield
Tip:137 Change your steering wheel badge!
Tip:138 Courtesy Light Wiring Information (Interior Lighting Mod)
Tip:150 Door Panel Removal procedure
Tip:157 Removal of CHMSL (center high mounted stop Light) or 3rd brake light.
Tip:161 Moldy looking Dash in cold weather?!
Tip:170 Gauge Cluster Removal and Custom Installations.
Tip:173 Installing Radar Detector using Mirror Power for no-clutter wiring.
Tip:181 Emergency Brake - Matching Pedal Cover!
Tip:190 Dodge Challenger Custom Leather Interior Upholstery Upgrade kit
Tip:196 BLUE LED Foot well Lighting
Tip:205 Custom Embroidered Headrests, etc.
(7) Products & Uses;
Tip:73 FREE MOPAR Desktop Screensavers!
Tip:74 Great Challenger Clothing, Jackets, Hats, Tee shirts, Gifts and much more!
Tip:81 Wireless USB Dodge Challenger Computer Mouse!
(8) Wheels, Tires, and Suspension;
Tip:40 Centering Steering Wheel: AKA: SAS Calibration. (steering Angle Sensor)
Tip:56 TPMS TIPS: Tire Pressure Monitoring System FAQ’s
Tip:72 TPMS and Setting proper tire air pressures (cold)
Tip:76 Challenger SRT and RT Wheel Lug Info
Tip:92 Challenger Spare Tire(s) and SRT Adaptor/Spacer
Tip:101 Brake Repair on Challenger/Charger
Tip:113 Tire Tech Information - Calculating and Reading Tire Sizes/Dimensions
Tip:144 Changing brake pads on BREMO brakes (SRT8)
Tip 183 Dreaded Front Suspension Pop!
Tip:194 SRT Front Springs on R/T
Tip:195 Hotchkis 22107 - Hotchkis Performance Sway Bar Kit
Tip:203 Installing larger rear rubber on your R/T!
(9) Transmission and related;
Tip:59 NAG1 Dipstick and Transmission Level Checking (AUTO)
Tip:60 SKIPSHIFT: Modification to eliminate 1-4 shifting (Manual).
Tip:99 NAGI Automatic Transmission, Description and Detail.
Tip:109 The TCM - Transmission Control Module (Detail)
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Tip:110
Tip:121
Tip:124
Tip:129
Tip:139
Tip:140
Tip:146
Tip:147
Tip:151
Tip:179
Tip:180
Tip:188
The T-Handle Shifter Upgrade for Challenger (Auto)
Transmission Control Module (TCM) - Limp Mode(s)
TCM Adaptation - NAG1 Only
NAG1 Automatic Transmission Fill
Manual 6-speed transmission drain and refill (TR6060)
Manual Gear Shift Tip(s)
Rear End Service/Lubrication RT/SRT
Automatic Transmission (NAG1) Cooling bypass valve
Autostick mode turns off MDS.
WA580 (NAG1) Automatic Maintenance and Mercedes Parts
MOPAR Performance MTCM - vs- Stock TCM and warnings;
New Product: High Performance NAG1 Transmission Kit
(10) Misc. , Aftermarket and Catalog items;
Tip:93 Help on Sticking/Freezing Windows and Door Seals!
Tip:100 BMC BILLET CATCH-CAN DRAIN COCK MODIFICATION
Tip:105 Dodge Challenger Accessories – Genuine MOPAR Catalog
Tip:131 Custom FOBIK covers
Tip:132 Uconnect Phone Compatibility List
Tip:176 Front Clip Removal for Black Chrome Grill Mod
Tip:192 What is MOPAR?
(11) Video Documentary, etc.;
Tip:197
Tip:198
Tip:199
Tip:200
National Geographic Channel Dodge Challenger MegaFactory Documentary
Dodge Challenger (Classic) Freedom Commercial and its making
Dodge Channels 2011 Challenger Keyless Enter-N-Go Video Documentary
Dodge Channels 2011 Dodge Challenger Homelink System Documentary
CLICK HERE for access to the previous Top 200+ Challenger Tips'n Trick listing list in
sequential order.
Tip:1
How to Display and Decode Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
How to Display OBD-II Trouble Codes On Instrument Cluster
(Works with or without EVIC).
1. Get in the car, close the door.
Perform steps 2-6 fairly quickly (less than 3 sec's total time).
(The key should not return to the OFF position through this next sequence!)
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Turn key to 'ON' position
then back to 'ACC'
then to 'ON'
then back to 'ACC'
then to 'ON'
If there are any stored codes, they will appear immediately, in place of the odometer.
For instance an "INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH" error will set a generic code of P0113
.
Many guys forget to hook their IAT sensor up after they install a new intake filter system and crank the engine.
A CEL on the dash instrument display will immediately result.
Once the codes have been displayed, you'll see "-----". If there are no trouble codes, the dashes will be the first item
displayed.
After a few seconds, the display changes to "-dOnE-".
Once you have recorded the DTC (diagnostic trouble code), use the chart below to decode:
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The DTC code is made up of 5 digits.
The figure below maps the structure or composition of a DTC. With this information it is little easier to troubleshoot a
DTC without
knowing the exact description of the actual code.
Important Note!
Generic OBD-II codes start with P0xxx.
OEM MFG DTC Codes start with P1xxx.
Keep in mind that CEL (Check Engine Light) status is for Powertrain (Engine/Transmission) and is
primarily for EMISSIONS status functions.
Thus when getting a "Check Engine Light" on the dash, this means engine is out of emissions compliance
or an important sensor is out of range or has a malfunction.
NOTE----> Leading LETTER indicator on DTC coding meaning;
P = Powertrain
B = Body
C = Chassis
U = is a communication/Network fault
For those who do not understand or need "ODB-II" explained further, here is a great link to aid in
understanding modern day emissions code standard as required
by Federal Law for all automobiles built or imported into the United States;
What is OBD-II?
http://www.obdii.com/background.html
And, here is a link to all standard generic OBD-II DTC codes: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/
IMPORTANT NOTE: DTC Codes that start with P1xxx are not generic and are specific to OEM
Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep vehicles.
Common Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep Specific Diagnostic Trouble Codes are listed at: http://www.obd-codes.com
/trouble_codes/dodge/
Complete listings of all Dodge OEM mfg DTC codes for late model vehicles are listed at these
links below:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/computer-codes.html
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http://www.engine-light-help.com/dodge-check-engine-light.html
http://www.hsperformance.com/?p=2070
Dodge Engine Light Questions And Answers website!
http://www.engine-light-help.com/dodge-check-engine-light.html
Use link below for more detailed information, latest OBD updates, OEM information, recent Dodge OBD-II
Topic Forum and much more.
http://www.obd-codes.com/
Tip:2
Start Pushbutton Removal
The push button "Start Button" cap cover can be easily removed with your fingers by using a fingernail (or key in
FOBIK) under the bottom (6-o'clock) and pulling the button towards yourself. The FOBIK can then be inserted into
the opening and used like a standard to start in the car by turning it to the right noting the switch positions.
This can be used in the case of a "key fob not detected" message or a "push button start" failure.
NOTE:
The battery in the FOBIK can be completely DEAD and the WIN ignition module will power the FOBIK when inserted.
The key positions are;
1.
2.
3.
4.
Lock
Accessory ON
Ignition ON
Start Engine
Technically, you can still use the "push button" start with the button cover removed if you have slender fingers.
I teased my wife early on after my Challenger purchase by saying the car was programmed to only recognize me and
I stuck my little finger into the push button hole with the cover removed which allowed me to press the inside of the
WIN assembly simulating the start button and started up the car. I pull my finger out and showed her my pinky and
said, "see the car only recognizes me!". Of course she looked puzzled for a second or two then read my eyes and
called "BS" on me...
The WIN (Wireless Ignition Node) is shown and explained in the Challenger Owner's Manual.
For 2009 R/T it is in the section on "Things to know before starting your vehicle", page 12.
This tip is also documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg.246 ]
Tip:3
Extended EVIC Menu Access
If you have the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) option on R/T's, you can activate its hidden "Extended
Menu" mode by holding down both the steering wheel COMPASS and MUSIC NOTE buttons together for 6-8 seconds
anytime the key is in the ON position (engine running/car moving or even engine off). Cycle through the series of
various displays (such as a large-font digital speedometer) by using the up/down arrow switch on the left of the
steering wheel.
Q: What does the "compass" button look like?
I have a 2010 R/T 28M package with Uconnect/iPod (I think its sound group I or II) and don't have a button with
a "compass symbol" on it.
A: Yours may have the "Home" button. This was a running change in the production model 2010's - some model's
had
the compass button while others got the home button that has the house icon instead.
There are many other EVIC tips and tricks described in this document (Example Tip:75 , Tip:84, Tip:120, etc.) that
reference to or contain more information about features in EVIC. Search this document for "EVIC" related items!
EVIC and Radio Steering Wheel controls;
If a set up on the EVIC is showing an extended menu screen (ex: Digital Tach and Speed) and is left this way, the
steering wheel buttons controlling the Radio will not work.
Hit the home button to clear EVIC secondary menu settings and the Radio controls will work again.
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Note:
It's not wise to start changing things unless you're confident that you know exactly what you are doing or trying to
accomplish.
To get back to the normal EVIC display operation, press the COMPASS (or Home) button once again.
Here is a youtube video describing and showing extended menu access for 0-60 mph/sec timer;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45IdnQK9uy0
Note: 2011 Model Challenger (2011 EVIC Screen) access.
How to enter the extended EVIC screen ( Easter Eggs) on a 2011 Challenger. Have the ignition on, vehicle running
and EVIC at the temperature/compass screen;
Holding the UP arrow for at 8-10 seconds then immediately release and hold the DOWN arrow until these screen(s) appear.
This can take a several seconds.
They (Dodge) seem to have made it more difficult, instead of easier to get to the extended performance menu screens than
previous model years.
This tip also documented in the 2008 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg.166 ]
Tip:4
Enable/Disable Economy Mode Display
Depending on EVIC software version;
On R/Ts with automatics (24J package) built after Nov. 17, 2008 that have the MDS (Multi-Displacement System),
there is a way to enable/disable the Economy Mode (ECO) indicator and/or change it to an icon. Using the "extended"
EVIC display (mentioned above) scroll through until you find Personal Settings, then toggle down a few clicks and
you'll find "ECO Display."
There you will find the option to turn the ECO notification ON or OFF.
Note:
This does not turn MDS functions off, only the indicator light. There is also an option to change the ECO that
appears on the EVIC when MDS is activated to an icon such as a leaf, or a globe, or variations of a few ECO icons.
Tip is documented in 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg.161,172]
Tip is documented in 2010 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg.187]
Tip:5
Wipers - QuikWipe (or Mist Feature)
IF you are driving in light rain/misty conditions, and you just want the wipers to swipe ONCE, gently push -IN- on the
signal/wiper lever (along length of shaft). The wipers to will swipe only ONCE and uses no windshield washer fluid.
Tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 127]
Tip:6
Quick Lane Change
If you actuate the turn signal lever either way and let go quickly without pushing it far enough to "latch" into the
fixed position for signaling, the turn signals will flash three times and stop. This is good for fast merging into traffic
and freeway quick lane changes.
This "tip" is also documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 124]
Tip:7
Odometer Stick Pin Button
Pressing the stick pin button on the trip odometer for a moment will cycle the odometer display between Total miles,
Trip A
and Trip B. If you DON'T have the EVIC option, the display cycle will also include the outside temperature. If either of
the Trip
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odometer's are currently displayed and this knob is held in for a second or two, that trip odometer will be reset to 0.0
mi.
This tip is also documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 158 ]
Tip:8
Headlight Flasher (Flash to Pass)
You probably know by now as with most LX Chrysler platform vehicles, the high-beam headlights are switched on by
pushing the turn-signal lever towards the dash until it latches, but also when in low-beam position, pulling the lever
TOWARDS you will activate the high-beams momentarily until you release. This "flash to pass" feature is good for
letting that slow driver in front of you to move right or yield.
Note:
Pulling back on the lever does NOT turn off the fog lamps. this is a quick way to get the highest or MAXIMUM light
forward/ahead.
Otherwise, pushing the lever forward to "lock" the high beams on will also turn the fog lamps off.
More information on this in your owner's manual.
Tip is documented in 2008 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg.153]
Tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 124]
Tip:9
Factory Oil Filter Installation
The factory oil filters will seem to have been installed by a gorilla with a 30 inch pipe wrench! They are VERY difficult
to remove as they are put on with a pneumatic cap wrench at the factory to ensure they do not leak. IF you do
not have the proper removal tool you should seriously consider having the first oil change done by the dealer, even if
you do it yourself every other time!
NOTE:
Strap wrench's just will not work, you will need the large socket type "G" or "H" style end cap wrench either 1/2" or
3/8" drive. Lay a Scott paper towel in the cap wrench to tap it onto the bottom of the STOCK filter. This will ensure
a very tight fit so the cap wrench will NOT slip. Make sure you get the right size the with the correct number of
"flats" to match the stock filter unit (93mm, 15 flutes). Once you get the filter off, you can use a small ball peen
hammer to tap the cap wrench off the bottom of the old filter.
And if you have the 5.7 LTR Hemi (Auto), you absolutely must INSIST on 5W20 oil only. MDS requires this to
work correctly.
Here is a link to a OIL FILTER CAP WRENCH, the type you want to use with your stock (93mm, 15 flute)
and replacement oil filters;
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-54780-93mm-Cap-Wrench/dp/B0009OR97Y
Also, Your local AutoZone or Advance Auto should have generic oil filter wrenches (Size D, 93mm, 15 flute) metal cap
wrenches.
When installing a new oil filter, here is the Dodge factory manual spec's;
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For the absolute best oil filter for your Challenger available on the market, see: Tip:79
Tip:10
DRL’s for Safety (Daytime Running Lights)
Note: Daytime Running Lights are required by Canadian Law. Not required under US law.
Would you like driving with your headlights on in the daytime for safety reasons (it's the law in Canada)? Think
about having your Daytime Running Lights (DRLs) enabled!
It turns your dual filament parking lamp bulbs (the yellow/orange ones) to the (higher Candle Power) high filament
intensity whenever the headlights are OFF.
This will have to be done at the dealer to get them "activated" because it requires the car to be hooked up to the
StarScan/StarMobile Tool and some sales codes updated.
With the press of a few buttons on StarScan (on 2010 and newer models use StarMobile), you're ready to go.
The Vehicle VIN must be updated with sales code of added accessory in order to enable system functionality using the
DealerCONNECT (Dealer.net website) and StarSCAN/StarMobile or newer WiTech diagnostic tool.
DRL's will only turn on when the car is in Drive. If the engine is not running, vehicle is in park or parking brake is on,
the DRL's will not turn on.
See Tip#41 for additional details and information for assisting Chrysler/Dodge dealer service techs to perform this
sales option.
Many dealerships will not know what you are talking about exactly but this tip will show
them.
For those interested in Daytime Running Lights and exactly what they are, history and current standards, look HERE
for more technical info.
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DRL Activation Warning! Add a note to DRL activation tip and warning for dealers.
WARNING NOTE TO DEALERSHIPS!
The following is feedback from a frustrated owner from "improper" TIPM configuration.
“I live in the US. I lost my travel link/traffic menu on my 2011 730N RHR almost a year ago.
Dealer doesn't have a clue, they swapped my radio out & still no luck, I updated the new radio
to "software version 2.169", I tried the reloading version 2.120 EM factory reset method over
& over, still no joy. Over 50 hours on the phone with Sirius & countless trips to the dealership
to hear them say “just wait”, the issue will be fixed with the new update that's due in the
fall, I didn't buy it.
After reading your tips, I suspected my dealer configured my TIPM for Canada model, in order
to have Daytime Running Lights activated. It was my suspicion that played a part in the missing
Travel Link & Traffic menu, as I understand Travel Link & Traffic is a US. service only from Sirius.
I asked a lot of Canadian owners if they had the Travel Link & Traffic menu on their radios & every
one of them answered no, it’s not a Canadian option.
Problem solved:
As I suspected, the dealership changed my TIPM config to Canada sales code, but refused to look @ your printed
instructions or hear me out on the matter.
I Called SRT, they called the dealer & had them change it back to US. today & presto, after a year
and a 1/2 of fighting with dealerships, I got all my travel link & traffic menus back & DRL activated
from the US. Star menu. Thanks to you. Sometimes the customer is right, getting the dealer to
admit it, well that's a whole other thing.
Maybe you should add a warning!!!! to this section of the
DRL tip, that allowing the dealership to change the country code to activate DRL will disable
Travel Link & Traffic menus in the Mygig radios.” - Thanks again, F. Raymore Jr.
Tip:11
Fuel Cap Hanger and Low Fuel Warning
Inside the fuel door is a little hook in which to hang your fuel cap, by the cord so that the cap doesn't hang down
against car.
Below is a clip from the 2010 challenger Owner's Manual;
Fuel Filler Cap — R/T Model
NOTE:
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When removing the fuel filler cap, lay the cap tether in the hook, located on the fuel filler door.
Low Fuel Warning!
Low Fuel Light;
This light will turn on and a single chime will sound when the fuel level drops to 1/8 tank. Based on a max tank
level of 19 gal, this is approximately 2.3 gals of fuel left.
Now on a typical MPG of 15-20 MPG, you have about 30 miles of driving left before you run out of gas.
Estimated driving distance, the DTE display will change to a text display of _LOW FUEL_. This display will continue
until the vehicle runs out of fuel. Adding a significant amount of fuel to the vehicle will turn off the _LOW FUEL_ text
and a new DTE value will display.
Also of note is the fuel filler cap location indicator arrow on the Instrument Cluster next to the LOW FUEL warning
light. Fuel fill is on the left side of the vehicle. This arrow points to the side the filler cap is on. Note the picture
below (1) Fuel Gauge and low fuel warning indicator light.
Tip:12
Disable Seat Belt Reminder Chime:
Quick Procedure;
Step 1. With the ignition switch in any position except On or Start, buckle the driver side front seat belt.
Step 2. Turn ignition switch to ON position and wait for the seat belt indicator reminder function to conclude (about 6
sec’s).
Step 3. Unbuckle and buckle the driver side front seat belt three or more times, ending with the belt buckled.
Step 4. Turn the ignition switch to any position except On or Start to toggle the belt-minder feature from its current
setting
(from active to inactive, or from inactive to active).
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A single chime tone will provide an audible confirmation that the programming sequence has been successfully
completed.
(This does NOT disable the INITIAL chime, only the nagging repeats every few seconds).
(Full Length procedure and text from the 2009 Challenger R/T owner's manual pages 43-44)
Enhanced Seat Belt Use Reminder System (BeltAlert_)
If the driver’s seat belt has not been buckled within 60 seconds of starting the vehicle and if the vehicle speed is
greater
than 5 mph (8 km/h), the Enhanced Seat Belt Use Reminder System (BeltAlert_) will alert the driver to buckle the
seat belt.
The driver should also instruct all other occupants to buckle their seat belts. Once the warning is triggered, the
BeltAlert_
will continue to chime and flash the Seat Belt Reminder Light for 96 seconds or until the driver’s seat belt is buckled.
The
BeltAlert_ will be reactivated if the driver’s seat belt is unbuckled for more than 10 seconds and the vehicle speed is
greater
than 5 mph (8 km/h).
BeltAlert_ Programming
The BeltAlert_ can be enabled or disabled by your authorized dealer or by performing the following steps:
NOTE: Chrysler LLC does not recommend deactivating the BeltAlert_.
1. With both doors closed, and the ignition switch in any position except ON or START, buckle the driver’s seat belt.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the engine. Wait for the Seat Belt Reminder Light to
turn off and then proceed to the next step.
NOTE: You must perform the following steps within 60 seconds of turning the ignition switch to the ON position.
3. Within 60 seconds of turning the ignition switch to the ON position, unbuckle and then re-buckle the driver’s seat
belt at least three times, ending with the seat belt buckled.
NOTE: Watch for the Seat Belt Reminder Light to turn on while unbuckling the seat belt and turn off while
re-buckling the seat belt.
It may be necessary to retract the seat belt.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position. A single chime will sound to signify that you have successfully
completed the programming.
The BeltAlert_ can be reactivated by repeating this procedure.
NOTE: When the BeltAlert_ is deactivated, the Seat Belt Reminder Light will continue to illuminate as long as the
driver’s seat belt is unbuckled.
Tip is also documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 43 ]
Tip:13
Ditch that Hood Prop Rod!
If you are like me, you got tired fast of having to use the prop-rod to keep your hood open. You can buy Mopar hood
struts to do the job properly for about $55.
A five minute install and if you look under the hood, you'll notice, near the hinge, that you already have one-half of
the ball joints installed on the hood.
To install, start the bolt provided into the hole in the fender and apply pressure while tightening with your deep
socket wrench (metric). The bolt will "self thread".
Mopar Part number's
68035556AA, LH
68035557AA, RH
6507889AA, Studs ( need 2 ea)
or MOPAR Strut Kit available for Challenger RT/SE part# 82212094 (includes both struts and ball mounts.)
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NOTE:
Take care and look. As the Struts are NOT the same.
They are marked RIGHT and LEFT on respective pkg's so do pay attention to which is which before unwrapping!
Tip:14
Extending Sun Visor!
Note that if you detach the sun visor from the clip holding it to the headliner, you can not only swivel it around and
down to your side window but it also has a short hidden extension that slides out along the shaft.
Additionally, a smaller plastic visor "extension" pulls out from inside of the visor to block the sun from the gap
between the visor and center rear view mirror.
Look along the visor edge for the little thumb or finger depression and then pull out.
Tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 78 ]
Tip:15
ESP and Cruise Control
NOTE:
In order to ensure proper operation, the Electronic Speed Control System has been designed to shut down if multiple
Speed Control functions are operated. This means that when ESP (Electronic Stability Program) "activates", it will
turn "OFF" your cruise control. You will lose any previous SET speed.
If this occurs, the Electronic Speed Control System can be reactivated by pushing the Electronic Speed Control
ON/OFF button and resetting the desired vehicle set speed.
To Activate
Push and release the ON/OFF button located on the end of the Electronic Speed Control lever. The indicator light in
the instrument cluster will illuminate to show that the speed control system is on. To turn the system off, push and
release the ON/OFF button again. The system and the indicator light will now turn off.
Tip is documented in the 2010 Challenger Owner's Manual, pg. 133
Tip:16
Trinket Tray Removal
All Challengers have a small trinket or change tray in front of the shifter area. Did you know that the tray liner is
removable for cleaning?
As well as the bottom tray liner on the rectangular slot to the left of the cup holders.
This is documented in 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg.399]
Tip:17
Cruise Control Operations
When using the "cruise control" system and going down a steep hill, the transmission will downshift to try to keep
you close to your set speed.
Refer to your owner's manual for more detailed information on Cruise control operations.
It is also advisable not to use the cruise control while driving in the rain. Hydroplaning or hitting slick spots in the
roadway can create a vehicle control issue while under active cruise control.
Tip:18
Nav Unit destination tip
If you have the NAV unit, the easiest and quickest way to enter a destination (if it is a POI) is to enter the phone
number! Scroll down to get to where it allows you to enter phone number (it is out of sight). The numeric keypad
entry is faster to use than the full alpha keypad, you don't need to use the list of names (POI names or street
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names). And there are no collisions on the entry (exactly one destination comes up). It also enters the dashes
automatically.
Also with the NAV Radio - You can program your destination, and begin route, with one button press.
Press Voice Command button
Say "Main Menu"
wait for prompt
Say "Navigation"
follow prompts and use voice commands to finish programming and beginning route.
Turn-by-Turn Navigation — If Equipped
When ON is selected, the Turn-by-Turn directions will appear in the display as the vehicle approaches a designated
turn within a programmed route. To make your selection, press and release the FUNCTION SELECT button until “ON”
or “OFF” appears.
Tip:19
EVIC Compass Calibration
If you have EVIC, holding down the Compass button for several seconds will place EVIC into a diagnostic mode for the
compass which also allows you to reset its magnetic calibration (i.e. fluctuation between true north and magnetic
north).
This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 176 ]
Tip:20
Watching Evic while fueling
If you are equipped with the EVIC, if you leave the key in the "ON" position while fueling, you can not only watch the
gas gauge rise, if you leave the EVIC in "Distance to Empty" mode, you can watch the numbers change as the tank
fills.
Distance to Empty can be found in the normal/standard EVIC mode without having to go into the "extended" mode.
Tip:21
Turn Signal Bulbs Out Warning
If your turn signal is flashing at a faster rate for one side or the other, check the flasher light (front and rear) bulbs
on that
side; one of your bulbs has failed.
The 2x (twice as fast as normal) turn signal flasher speed is a warning indication for one or more signal "bulbs out".
This is typical of all “shunt” type electronic flashers, which monitor bulb/load current.
Tip:22
Trunk OPEN operations
You cannot open the trunk with either the "release" button on the dash or with the key FOB button until the
automatic transmission is in the "PARK" position.
Tip:23
Free Dodge Owners Manuals
Need to look something up in the owner's manual?
Download it for free here (on this site, see link below) as a .PDF file! Just choose your year and model. It is FREE,
Courtesy of Chrysler/Dodge. Create a short-cut on your Microsoft Windows desktop for ONE-CLICK access for speedy
access.
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You can use the SEARCH function in the Adobe viewer to find data in the owner's manual extremely fast!
Here is link to Dodge manuals: http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/manuals/
Now, If you are the first registered owner you can get a "printed copy" of the owner's manual by calling;
1-800-992-1997 in the U.S.
1-800-387-1143 in Canada.
See Also: Tip:57 Documents - Owner's Manuals, Dealer/Sales Documents, etc.
Tip:24
Dash and Panel Lights Parade Mode (and other dimmer features)
If you like driving with parking lights or headlights on in the daytime, there is a Parade Mode (daytime brightness
feature) of the dash and panel lights. Rotate the dash light dimmer control upward to the first detent to select it.
This feature brightens all displays such as odometer, EVIC and radio when the parking or headlights are on.
Interior “light dimmer” tips;
Other than dimming the Instrument cluster lighting and interior lighting, you can use the dimmer at
different “positions”.
Dome Light Position
Rotate the dimmer control completely upward to the second detent to turn ON the interior lights.
The interior lights will remain ON when the dimmer control is in this position.
Interior Light Defeat (OFF)
Rotate the dimmer control to the extreme bottom OFF position.
The interior lights will remain OFF when the doors are open.
Parade Mode (Daytime Brightness Feature)
Rotate the dimmer control upward to the first detent.
This feature brightens all text displays such as the odometer, Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC), and radio
when the parking lights or headlights are ON.
This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 126]
MyGig Unit and Parade mode tip:
MyGig NAV Screen "AutoMode" (via Vin57) See Tip:187 MyGig and Parade Mode
Tip:25
Top Speed Display on the R/T
Depending on EVIC version note the following;
If you are viewing the "extended" EVIC display and you push the trip odometer stick pin button once, the EVIC will
display your top speed recorded since you started the car.
Also, Gaining access to stored TOP SPEED in EVIC. While in "digital speedometer" mode:
DISPLAY TOP SPEED
Press/Hold function select button ">" to toggle between current speed and top speed achieved.
RESET TOP SPEED
Quickly press and release the function select button when Top Speed is displayed.
Note, the top speed will not change unless you have it displayed (Speedometer Mode).
Tip:26
Turn Signal Warning
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When you leave your blinker on for a while (more than 1 mile/1.6Km) and forget it while driving, the vehicle will
chime (in sync with blinker) to warn you!
So, "turn the signal blinker off" as people might think you have Alzheimer's.
Tip:27
Door Lock Modes
If you hit the door lock switch on the armrest while the door is open and the car is running, it will NOT lock the doors.
You can unlock them but it will not let you lock the doors to prevent you from accidentally locking yourself out.
This and other door lock modes are explained in the owner's Manual.
Tip:28
Disable ESP/Traction in R/T
To partially disable the ESP/Traction Control in an R/T, press and hold the ESP button while in park for about 5-6
seconds.
The ESP beeps and instrument panel (Mr. Squiggly) shows bypassed. It's now partially disabled until you turn off
engine.
NOTE:
With the "Super Track Pak" on the R/T J or R/T Classic, no "key trick" is needed to get full off ESP.
While in PARK, press and hold ESP off button until the system chimes.
Tip:29
R/T and SE ESP "Key Tricks"
To completely disable the R/T ESP/Traction Control. While moving at more than 15 mph, you turn the key to START
and hold it for a few seconds until the system chimes. (Don't worry, the starter won't engage). The chimes indicate
that the ESP is now completely disabled until you turn the engine off. This is known as the "key trick."
R/T FULL ESP OFF
Also for anyone wondering what the key trick is, simply hit the ESP button once... you don't need to hold for 10 sec's
or whatever, that doesn't work. Just hit it once like you normally will, the squiggly lines will pop up.
Now start driving and once you get above 15 mph simply turn and hold the key as if your trying to start up the car.
Hold the key in that position for about 5 sec's.
Don't worry your starter won't try to crank over because it already knows the car is running. Now the first thing
you'll notice is that your radio will turn off and back on along with anything plugged into your cigarette lighter like
a radar detector or whatever.
IF you look at your dash you will have Mr. Squiggly. (ESP 1/2 off) and your ABS light (Brake) will be ON. You are
now in total OFF mode. Have fun and be careful as you have no brake assist.
Braking will not be as good as you may have become accustomed to.
So now all your traction control and ESP are fully OFF and you can smoke tires till they turn into drag radials!
This is continued until the vehicle is stopped and IGN OFF/ON and Engine Start cycle is re-initiated
For SE models, all 2010 SE's have ESP, it's the 2009's without the popular option package that don't.
NOTE:
With the "Super Track Pak" on the R/T J or R/T Classic, no "key trick" is needed to get full off ESP.
While in PARK, press and hold ESP off button until the system chimes.
2011 Update: It appears that the "key trick" does not work for this model year. Looks like Chrysler has
made a hardware/software WIN module change and the trick only works for previous model years.
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Tip:30
Extended EVIC trip pin trick
Depending on your vehicle's model year and EVIC software version;
While in the "extended" EVIC display, if you press the stick pin for the trip odometer and switch it to Trip B, your top
speed will be revealed!
Take care, it "resets" with the arrow key.
Tip:31
Keyless Entry Start and CEL
If you have the push button start feature and your "check engine light" comes on, your FOBIK (key fob) remote
start will work but it will only run for about 10 seconds, then stop. After that, you'll have to restart the car by
removing the start button cover and insert/use the FOBIK as a key.
See Tip:142 Keyless Go Button (Tech Tip & Operation Info) for more specific documentation on Keyless Go
System operations.
Tip documented in 2008 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 162]
Tip documented in 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 162]
Tip:32
Center Console Lid Trick
Did you know that the center console arm rest adjusts forwards and backwards?
Just give it a nudge forward toward the dash to release and it will slide back and forth to your desired position.
WARNING NOTE:
Moving it all of the way forward partially covers one of the cup holders and it is no longer accessible.
Tip:33
Cluster Range Diagnostic. (Works on all LX models)
1. Be sure key is set to the 'OFF' position.
2. Press and hold the 'Trip Meter Reset' button.
3. Turn the key to 'ON' position.
The gauges will step through the whole range.
If a gauge is seems to be "acting up" or not functioning, this is an fast way to see if it's a "sensor" (sender) or a
Instrument Cluster gauge.
Tip:34
Odometer Trip button on non EVIC
On vehicles with no EVIC (the basis dash)- If you press the trip odometer button you will get your trip mileage, press
again and you will get outside temperature.
Now press again to get your MDS or ECO/ECO ON mode dash indicator.
Tip:35
Air Conditioner.
If you press in the re-circulate air button (the one on the left that does not have the snow flake icon on it) it also
starts the air conditioner and provides the coldest AC air.
This is due to AC being activated in "Re-circulate Air Position" with ONE single button press.
This "tip" is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 233]
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Tip:36
Sun Roof Open Modes:
For those with sun roof there are two separate opening modes. The forward button on roof console is to open, farther
most setting closes the roof (at position desired once released). The "middle" button, closes the roof and then the
glass closes at front and raises up in back.
For more information on operation and calibration of the electrical control module see; Tip:118 Power Top Sunroof
- Operations and Calibration
Tip:37
Windows "Express Down" using FOBIK.
Hit your UNLOCK button to unlock your doors and then about 1 second later, press OPEN again and HOLD it down.
BOTH windows will come down to cool the car off.
Releasing the HOLD on the unlock button while windows are opening will STOP the windows open function in
progress.
Great to cool off a hot car as you are approaching and unlocking it.
Please note the following;
This is documented in the 2008 and 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 24 ] – Express Down Feature
This is documented in the 2010 Challenger Owner’s Manual [pg.23] and 2011 Challenger Owners Manual [pg. 24] but
this feature is not called “Express Down”. This manual refers to this feature as “Remote Open Window Feature”.
All the above are located in the “Things to know before starting your vehicle”.
Tip:38
Reset the "Oil Change Required" message in the EVIC:
Unless properly reset, this message will continue to display each time you turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
To turn off the message "temporarily", press and release the TRIP ODOMETER button on the instrument cluster.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Turn the key to "ON" but don't start the engine.
Press the gas pedal to the floor and release 3 times within 10 seconds.
In some cases, the EVIC may display "Oil change reset" as an acknowledgment.
Turn the key to OFF and you're done.
KeyLess Go setups?
For those who have the PUSH BUTTON START installed (Keyless Go), you can remove the start button and
use the FOBIK as a key to do the above or do the following steps below;
(a.) Do not press the brake pedal and press the Start button twice (EVIC will say IGNITION ON).
(b.) Press the gas pedal 3 times to the floor within 5 seconds.
Instrument Cluster (EVIC) will display "Oil Change Reset" as an acknowledgement.
(c.) Press the Start button once more to turn OFF the Ignition.
NOTE 1:
The next time you start the car the "Oil Change Required" message will be gone, until the algorithm for Oil Condition
determines that you need to change your oil again.
Now, for this to work correctly in determining oil quality, RESET your EVIC immediately upon changing your oil so
the internal algorithm is reset and restarted.
The vehicle cannot tell when you change oil and you need to clear/restart the monitoring setup to avoid erroneous oil
change messages.
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NOTE 2:
For those interest in how the "oil change" light actually works, look at this; Tip:125 Oil Change Required Light
and how it works
This Tip documented in the following Challenger Owner's Manuals;
2008 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 162]
Tip:39
Resetting NGC (PCM) Driver Fuel Adaptive’s
NGC (PCM) CLEAR PROCEDURE
- Open the cover on the TIPM (engine fuse block/center) and pull Fuse F2
(25A - Front engine TIPM Electrical Distribution Center) for a count of approximately 25-30 seconds resets (clears)
the NGC's Adaptive memory.
For those that need a picture (there is a Fuse location on the lid of the TIPM) here is an overhead view
It is a 25 amp beige fuse! Fuse chart Fuse #2 says it is the NGC module feed.
-or you can - Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds.
(This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory. Reconnect the Battery Cable.
(pulling F2 in the TIPM is a lot faster and easier than disconnecting the battery)
-
Turn
Turn
Turn
Turn
Ignition Switch to the “On” position but DO NOT start the engine!
Headlight “On”
Headlights “Off”
Ignition Key “Off”
Adaptive memory has now been flashed, or erased from the PCM.
When you start the engine it will be running off a set of pre-programmed tables that come with the PCM from the
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factory.
Cycling the headlights as listed will create a "short term" fuel adaptive learn period (50 start cycles).
Here's what it does exactly!
Pulling Fuse F2 resets;
- All PCM DTCs erased.
- All OBD2 monitor results erased.
- All "long term fuel trim adaptive" values reset to Zero.
Long term Fuel Adaptive trim will now start over the next 100 engine start cycles.
Cycle the headlights as described above will create a Short Term Fuel Adaptive trim table over the next 50 start
cycles.
Driver Adaptives?
Driver Adaptive's and related fuel table trim is probably the least understood algorithm contained within
the NGC - Next Generation Controller (also called PCM)
There are long term fuel adaptive trim (100 start cycles) and short term fuel adaptive trim (50 start cycles). The
NGC looks at what the fuel requirements to operate are during "closed loop" operations. The fuel trim algorithm is
slowly and gradually attempting to bring the fuel consumption to best suit driving conditions and optimize the MPG by
feedback from O2 and other sensors.
Short term and long term fuel trim are also used in analyzing KR (Knock Retard) and attempting to have the NGC
(PCM) calibrate the engine timing based on quality of fuel. With different quality fuels and octane's, the NGC tries to
always adjust for the best engine timing (advance/retard) to protect the engine from knock or prevent detonation.
The knock sensors on the HEMI engine are quite sensitive and can be considered to be "engine microphones".
What is Knock Retard?
Knock Retard (hereafter referred to as KR) is the response from the PCM to cylinder detonation. KR is the measure
of the number of degrees of overall ignition timing advance that must be removed from the engine to prevent
detonation from continuing, thus protecting the engine from damage.
What is REAL KR and what is FALSE KR?
Real KR is KR that grows with engine RPM and engine load. It depends entirely on detonation, which is dependent
upon throttle position, IAT or MAF, MAP, engine load, engine temperature, and RPM. As RPM and engine load
increase, the chance for KR (or higher KR) increases. As the vehicle shifts to the next gear, KR will usually make a
small jump up as well due to the higher engine load.
False knock is characterized by a sharp spike to an immediately high value of KR followed instantly by the KR
Recovery Rate. It doesn't grow with engine RPM or load, it jumps to a high value on throttle input and then recovers
to a low value, or zero perhaps, as engine RPM continues to increase. Note that this is exactly opposite to the
characterization of REAL KR. Remember, knock is simply specific noise detected by engine microphones. Because it
happens to fall within the frequency of real KR does not necessarily mean that it IS real KR.
To learn more about "What is Knock" read this excellent and detailed write up below;
http://www.stlclubgp.com/tech/kr/
The PCM has the ability to do some rudimentary fuel tuning (all modern vehicles now do this) via "closed loop mode".
It has two main modes of operation, closed loop and open loop. When the engine is started and heated up past 160
deg. F, the NGC (PCM) now goes into "closed loop" control whereby it takes feedback from sensors (ie. IAT, MAP, O2,
Knock, etc.) and looks at the fuel efficiency and attempts to tweak out the current fuel tables to get the best MPG and
engine efficiency.
Tromping the accelerator to the floor puts the PCM into OPEN loop where it now goes to fixed tables to do fuel
mixture and o2 sensors are now bypassed.
So where does this wind up over time. Well, there is a number of "learn cycles" that The PCM goes into for fuel
Adaptives, normal 100 start cycles, or a "quick learn" of 50 start cycles (using the headlight ON/OFF trick). During
these times (cycles) fuel trim adaptive algorithms work on trying to get the best MPG. After the 100 cycles, the MPG
magic is pretty much done until something is done to initial another "learn cycle" like clear memory.
These start cycles are a fixed "time-cycle" effort to build a fuel trim table and the algorithm will stop fuel trim after
these 50 or 100 start cycles.
So if you have been driving around for a number of weeks, months in a laid back fashion, the PCM has learned this
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and attempted to get the best MPG for you and tuned down (slowly) performance. So, one day you tromp the gas
hard or do some spirited driving and you notice the car "sluggish", or not quite as peppy as before. This could be the
reason. Clearing out long term fuel table adaptive memory can sometimes help.
The PCM has a number of classes and types of internal memory. The fuel table Adaptive's are stored in volatile
memory and when the fuse (F2) is pulled for at least 20-30 seconds, this memory is cleared and you can start over
building a new set of Fuel Table Adaptive's for closed loop control (next 100 start cycles).
If you granny drive around town your car adapts to that type of driving. Then when you want to do a lot of quick
aggressive driving the vehicle may seem sluggish and not "as responsive" as you remember. You may need to do
something to the PCM called clearing driving fuel Adaptive's.
TCM Driver Adaptives?
Now, what about the Automatic (NAG1) Transmission and its stored driver adaptives?
For those who wonder about NAG1 (Auto) transmission driver adaptive's, that is another animal entirely and pulling
F2 does nothing
whatsoever with the TCM (Transmission Control Module). if You have a Diablo Predator tuner, you are able to use
this tool to reset
the TCM via menu option.
Read more on the TCM and its operations at Tip:109 The TCM - Transmission Control Module (Detail)
Owner FAQ's
Originally Posted by dodge man2
I understand what it trying to do, I'm trying to understand the nuts and bolts of what it does. What makes the car feel
doggy and less responsive?
I know it shifts sooner. Does it pull timing, pull fuel, make the throttle move less with the gas pedal movement?
It is also my understanding it doesn't make any difference in full throttle operation, since it jumps into open loop, and
that stuff is preprogrammed and doesn't change.
DM2;
Perhaps this will yield some additional understanding.
OBDII Emission Control Adaptive Strategy
What is fuel trim?
Fuel trim is a window that allows you to see what the PCM (computer) is doing to control fuel delivery and determine
how the PCM's "adaptive strategy" is operating. The PCM on the Dodge Challenger is now referred to NGC (Next
Generation Controller) as it is able to "rationalize" its inputs for improved diagnostics and response.
Why was fuel trim created?
In order for vehicle manufacturers to comply with EPA emissions regulations, catalytic converters were added to
reduce tailpipe emissions. Catalytic converters need a stoichiometric air/fuel ratio of approximately 14.7:1 to obtain
the greatest emissions reductions.
Vehicle engineers designed closed-loop engine control systems to maintain that ratio, adjusting injector pulse width
based on information from oxygen sensor and other inputs.
Short-term fuel trim (STFT) and long-term fuel trim (LTFT) are normally expressed as a percentage, and the ideal
range should be within ±5%.
Positive fuel trim percentages indicate that the powertrain control module (PCM) is attempting to richen the fuel
mixture, to compensate for a perceived lean condition. Negative fuel trim percentages indicate the PCM is attempting
to lean out the fuel mixture, to compensate for a perceived rich condition. STFT and LTFT percentages are the
adjustments made by the PCM to maintain the 14.7:1 ratio.
No matter what the drivability issue happens to be, the fuel trim window should be used first to check the STFT and
LTFT parameters/values.
There are two basic fuel control systems used on most vehicles: Speed Density systems, which use rpm, manifold
absolute pressure (MAP) and barometric pressure (BARO) to calculate engine load, and Mass Airflow systems, which
use the mass airflow sensor (MAF) and rpm to calculate engine load.
In both cases, the PCM begins with a standard injector pulse width calculation, based on various inputs and internal
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fuel cell tables.
The equation used by Dodge "Speed Density" OBD II vehicles to establish initial pulse width is: Injector Pulse Width =
(RPM × MAP/BARO) × TPS × ECT × IAT × Battery Volts × O2 (Short Term x Long Term).
Once the vehicle is running and the engine control system enters "closed-loop", the PCM relies primarily on
feedback from the oxygen sensor to determine if the stoichiometric air/fuel ratio is being maintained.
Think of "closed-loop" operation as a Sense-Decide-React sequence.
The PCM determines the base injector pulse width as described above.
The Sense phase begins once the system enters closed-loop, and is handled by the oxygen sensor.
In the Decide phase, the PCM uses the oxygen sensor data to determine if the proper 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio is being
maintained. If the ratio is correct, the PCM decides that no change should be made to the injector pulse width. In this
scenario, the React phase maintains the same injector pulse width. However, if the air/fuel ratio is 16.1:1 (lean)
during the Sense phase, the PCM makes the decision to increase the injector pulse width to correct the lean air/fuel
ratio condition.
In the React phase, the PCM commands the fuel injector to stay open longer. The Sense-Decide-React sequence
continues throughout closed-loop operation, maintaining the proper air/fuel ratio.
During "closed-loop" operation, the PCM reports changes in fuel trim calculations via the OBD II generic data
parameters short-term and long-term fuel trim. STFT for most vehicles will normally sweep rapidly in response to the
oxygen sensor. In many cases, if you graph Bank 1 STFT and BlSl O2 sensor, you'll see the oxygen sensor go rich and
STFT go lean to adjust the air/fuel ratio. The oxygen sensor will then go lean and STFT will go rich.
LTFT for most vehicles will remain more stable, adjusting over a longer period of time.
On some vehicles, if STFT has reached the specified limit, LTFT will change in a few seconds. On other vehicles it may
take 15 to 20 seconds before a change occurs. The LTFT calculation is normally kept in memory, so the PCM is ready
to use the last known injector pulse width following a restart. STFT will normally begin at 0% and adjust to the
current conditions.
Both STFT and LTFT will normally reset when all trouble codes are cleared.
The LTFT calculation is kept in PCM memory so the PCM does not need to "relearn" the fuel trim calculation the next
time the vehicle is started.
The PCM adaptive memory has fuel trim cells that will store data to add or subtract additional fuel at different rpm
and manifold pressures, this fine tunes the fuel mixture as required, if the data is incorrect the vehicle will still run
"bad" until it relearns (adapts) itself, resetting the adaptive memory resets this data back to 0 so it can relearn from
there, and the vehicle will normally run better from the start.
Note that WOT operations (wide open throttle) operate on "fixed" fuel tables as opposed to closed loop adaptive
tables.
Note here that Dodge Challenger with automatic and Dodge Challenger with manual transmissions are "tuned"
differently.
Please note also, that you should not confuse NAG1 automatic transmission adaptive's with those of the PCM/NGC
although they are similar in their "processes", but what they do is quite different.
Read more on the TCM and its operations at Tip:109 The TCM - Transmission Control Module (Detail)
Tip:40
Centering the Steering Wheel: AKA: SAS calibration (steering Angle Sensor)
On Disconnect of the vehicle battery;
You may need to do a SAS calibration if when restoring power your steering wheel and steering angle sensor get out
of calibration.
This is where the steering wheel is centered, but the actual front wheels are not seen centered (electronically).
If the vehicle is equipped with ESP, once the battery is reconnected, the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) within the
Antilock Brake Module (ABM) needs to be calibrated. The SAS requires calibration (initialization) using the scan tool
anytime the battery or an ABS (ESP) component has been disconnected for any length of time.
If the SAS is not calibrated following battery reconnection, the ESP/BAS indicator lamp will flash
continuously with no DTCs.
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Step 1: Start car:
Center the wheels (not the steering wheel, but the actual front wheels need to be straight) then Turn OFF car, open
door to kill electronics, wait
for 3 minutes for vehicle CANBUS to shutdown.
Step 2: Start car:
turn wheels full right turn and hold for a 10 Mississippi count.
turn wheels full left and hold for a 10 Mississippi count
turn wheels full right
turn wheels full left
Return to Center.
--Note:
In the dealers StarScan tool, it directs you thru each step with a countdown timer of 10 seconds.. but the StarScan is
not needed to
calibrate the SAS "Steering Control Sensors", all it is doing is walking you thru the above listed steps.
This applies to all models (SX,RT,SRT) of Dodge Challenger 2008 and above, as all have the SCM (Steering Control
Module)
at the base of the steering column.
Note related item: Tip:91 Battery Reconnection Procedure (reset DDM, PDM, & SCM's)
Tip:41
DRL’s on CHALLENGER: How To ACTIVATE
DRL's (Daytime Running Lights) and Activation of.
This is where the inboard AMBER turn signals both come on bright and stay on while driving and properly switch
OFF/ON during turn signals.
The bright amber lights highlight the vehicle for others to see it better during the day, hence the name Daytime
Running Lights.
When you select headlights on, the DRL's switch off and AMBER turn signals now go to low power filament and will
glow bright on lane
change indications as normal.
In Canada it is against the law to remove/disable the DRL on any vehicle 1990 and newer. Also all vehicles imported
that are mfg 1990 and newer must have them. They are considered basic safety equipment- like brake lights or
headlights.
Note to Service Tech's to Activate DRL's on the Dodge Challenger in the United States.
You do not have to Change COUNTRY code (ie. Canada, Unites States, etc.) to do this.
It is NOT in the vehicle Prep Area!
This is done in TIPM (Total Integrated Power Module) Programming Options.
With StarScan (or with 2010 and newer StarMobile or WiTech) go into TIPM setup. Note: Do not use Wycliff for
this!
Note: We can do this also for add on "fog lamps" on other models.
StarScan or StarMobile:
ECU View --->
TIPM/CGW --->
Misc Functions --->
Enable DRL - follow prompts.
Check the status of the DRL and see if its ENABLED. It is not listed as "Daytime Running Lights" but it is actually
listed as "DRL" in the scan tool.
When vehicle is placed in gear and parking brake is in the OFF position, the DRL's will then automatically come on.
Q: Just to be clear: the orange (inner most) lights can be set to DRL mode following this procedure?
A: Yes, but only in gear, no parking brake on, it will turn on the turn signal element in the front lights only.
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The following picture shows stepping through the different light operations (modes).
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
DRL enable conditions are as follows:
a. DRL’s switch OFF when EMER.BRAKE is ON, turn OFF EMER.BRAKE if on to test DRL’s.
b. DRL's switch OFF when headlights are turned ON.
c. Automatic transmission: Make sure the vehicle is in "gear" to activate as well.
d. Standard transmission: DRL's on when engine running, headlights off, EMER.BRAKE off.
Note:
IF your service technician at the Dodge Dealership tries to activate them on a system called Wycliff, it will NOT be
possible.
Tell them they must follow the procedure noted above to get into the TIPM configuration and select the option
there.
Many dealer tech's are not intimately familiar with all the TIPM configuration options.
Be patient and give them a written copy of the above step-by-step procedure.
See: Tip:10 DRL’s for Safety (Daytime Running Lights) for related DRL information as well.
SEE: Note in above tip to dealerships on how NOT to improperly configure the TIPM for Canadian sales
code!!!!!
Tip:42
Adding Cabin Air Filter:
Here is a link to the kit I used for this modification.
Passenger Cabin Air Filtration
http://www.moparsupercenter.com/passenger-cabin-air-filtration82209548.html
Now the kit comes with a new plenum box, but you shouldn't need to replace this as it is the same for vehicles with
or without
the filter. You really only need the insert that holds the filter, the filter, and new retainer clips, all of which are
included in the kit.
Cabin Filtration kit: ID:82209548
Aftermarket Replacement filters available: NAPA #4909 or Wix #24909.
NOTE! Update to "moldy" smell in cabin from air filter types;
Smelly, moldy AC here is the cure!!!
Purchase a Wix cabin air filter for the Pentastar the part number is Wix-24048. Wix filters has made this filter with an
anti-microbial coating.
Sells for around 45 bucks. The paper Mopar filter sells for 13.97 and does not last when i took mine out there was mold
spores on it do not
know why they designed it in the cowl by under wiper blade always get water in there. Other companies put it in the dash by
glove box.
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At 5000 miles i noticed a moldy smell, so I ordered a new Mopar filter only to find out on back order. So I hunted down the
ONLY aftermarket
cabin air filter made for 2011-2012 challenger check it out put WIX filters in search engine. Hope this cures the "moldy
smell" from AC for everyone!
Soon as i changed it no more smell!
Jeff
Tip:43
ETC Throttle Calibration/Characterization:
Late LX/LC Model (5.7LTR HEMI) Charger/Challenger Throttle calibration procedure. It basically does a zero/span
characterization for PCM on fly-by-wire throttle system.
This procedure if followed correctly will hold until battery power is cycled again.
Note that the throttle body assembly itself performs a self-diagnostic (full open/close) prior to every key-start.
PCM Zero/Span Throttle Calibration
Throttle Calibration can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard."
Many people notice what appears to be sluggish throttle response or a pedal "dead area" at initial accelerator
depression.
Throttle calibration can take care of these.
Procedure steps:
1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start).
2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on.
3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
(HOLD to the floor for about a three second count.)
(On some PCM versions, Check Engine light (CEL) may start flashing here)
4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up.
5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF".
6) Start the engine.
Many drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to
repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's (PCM) adaptive programming.
NOTE: You will likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery is disconnected.
NOTE: This procedure was a carry over from the LX (Charger) days and seemed to work on some early model Challengers.
Some folks have seen this work on some Challengers and others have seen nothing as far as any accelerator pedal characteristics.
With as many PCM software changes over the past several years, this procedure may now do nothing whatsoever. Some folks
say the whole thing is nothing but a myth. Some folks swear that it has helped them in making the accelerator pedal more
sensitive and more responsive.
Note the recent highlights from the Dodge Challenger SRT Engineer Chat sessions;
Highlights from 25 May 2011 - SRT Engineer Chat
Q: Technicians and service personnel who work on these fine platforms daily have confirmed there is no such thing as a
“throttle recalibration” by
simply slowly depressing and holding the accelerator pedal to the floor for a few seconds after key-on (no start).
However the procedure, and the
purported gains still permeate the internet stating (for example) they experience better "throttle response". The
premise is that there is a hidden
procedure that allows an end-user to alter or “recalibrate” their FBW throttle system (we are aware that the throttle
body performs a self-diagnostic, full
open/close, prior to every key-start).
Care to somehow put a stake in this rumor once and for all?
A: There is a throttle recalibration on the ETC (Electronic throttle Control) that can be run as a subroutine when in
diagnostic
mode (hooked up to StarScan/StarMobile). No such means of doing this without a engineering/dealership hook up into
OBD port.
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Tip:44
Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS).
VTSS – Vehicle Theft Security System, from the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual
Pg. 18 - THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE STARTING YOUR VEHICLE
VEHICLE SECURITY ALARM
The Vehicle Security Alarm monitors the vehicle doors for unauthorized entry and the ignition switch for
unauthorized
operation. If something triggers the alarm, the Vehicle Security Alarm will prevent the vehicle from starting and
provide the following audible and visible signals: the horn will pulse; the headlights will flash; the park lights will
flash;
and the Vehicle Security Light in the instrument cluster will flash.
Rearming Of The System
If something triggers the alarm, and no action is taken to disarm it, the Vehicle Security Alarm will turn the horn off
after three minutes, turn all of the visual signals off after 15 minutes, and then the Vehicle Security Alarm will rearm
itself.
To Arm The System
Remove the key from the ignition switch and either press a power door LOCK switch while the driver or passenger
door is open or press the LOCK button on the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter. After the last door is closed,
or
if both doors are closed, the Vehicle Security Alarm will arm itself in about 16 seconds. During that time, the Vehicle
Security Light will flash. If it does not illuminate, the Vehicle Security Alarm is not arming. In addition, if you open a
door during the arming period, the Vehicle Security Alarm will cancel the arming process. If you wish to rearm the
Vehicle Security Alarm after closing the door, you must repeat one of the previously described arming sequences.
NOTE:
• The driver’s door key cylinder and the trunk button on the RKE transmitter cannot arm or disarm the
Vehicle Security Alarm.
• The Vehicle Security Alarm remains armed during trunk entry. Pressing the TRUNK button will not disarm the
Vehicle Security Alarm. If someone enters the vehicle through the trunk, and opens any door, the alarm
will sound.
• When the Vehicle Security Alarm is armed, the interior power door lock switches will not unlock the doors.
The Vehicle Security Alarm is designed to protect your vehicle; however, you can create conditions where the
Vehicle Security Alarm will give you a false alarm. If one of the previously-described arming sequences has
occurred, the Vehicle Security Alarm will arm regardless of whether you are in the vehicle or not. If you remain
in the vehicle and open a door, the alarm will sound. If this occurs, disarm the Vehicle Security Alarm.
If the Vehicle Security Alarm is armed and the battery becomes disconnected, the Vehicle Security Alarm will
remain armed when the battery is reconnected. The exterior lights will flash, the horn will sound, and the
ignition will not start the vehicle. If this occurs, disarm the Vehicle Security Alarm.
Tamper Alert
If something has triggered the Vehicle Security Alarm in your absence, the horn will sound three times when you
disarm the Vehicle Security Alarm. Check the vehicle for tampering.
UNDERSTANDING YOUR INSTRUMENT PANEL
21. Vehicle Security Light — If Equipped
This light will flash at a fast rate for approximately 15 seconds, when the vehicle security alarm is arming, and
then will flash slowly until the vehicle is disarmed.
Note:
See also Tip:70_Locking Challenger without enabling VTSS (Alarm)
Tip:45
MDS Reset & Calibration
1) You need a fairly long, open, safe, straight road for a WOT run to about 35 mph.
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2) Get engine up to operating temp, engine running and car stopped place gear selector in "[D]". Bump it to the Left
until in "[1]" display
in autostick mode.
3) Turn off all electrical accessories (except lights if needed).
4) Make a WOT run to 4500 RPM (about 35 mph), immediately remove foot from accelerator and do not depress the
brake, let the vehicle
coast with the throttle closed until the vehicle speed is again at 35 mph or lower.
5) Stop vehicle and place in "Park", verify all instrument cluster warning indicators are off.
6) Cycle ignition switch "Off" and back "On", but do not immediately start engine.
7) Hook up StarScan and clear DTC's.
8) MDS calibration is now complete.
Note:
For Tips on AUTOSTICK and how it disables MDS see: Tip:151 Autostick mode turns off MDS.
Tip:46
Smart Window Recalibration Procedure
Symptom: Drivers side "smart window" stopped working and would go all the way up too making it hard to close the
door.
Use the remote windows down option on remote.
USING the FOBIK, do the following:
1) Push the unlock once then again and hold it, the windows will go down.
2) Using door window button push/cycle window up button 10 times and down 3 times.
Windows should be recalibrated to open/close properly upon door exit/entry.
Also Note:
These windows have a learn procedure because the drop down feature when the door is opened. Sometimes they
need to be retrained if the module looses power.
With the key on and the door shut and window up hold the window switch down all the way till the window bottoms
out.
Do not release the button but hold in down for about 2-4 seconds. Then do the opposite for the up part holding the
button also at the top.
This should retrain the window controller.
See also Tip:91
Tip:47
HOAT Engine Coolant!
Exactly same as dealer type but 50% cheaper is Zerex G-05® Antifreeze/Coolant.
Provides long life protection for new Ford and DaimlerChrysler vehicles Available at NAPA automotive and others.
(Mopar numbers for Zerex G05 which is the same brand Chrysler/Dodge uses . Mopar # 68029698AA-05066386AA)
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NOTE! There is also:
Fina - Universal HOAT Coolant
http://www.finalube.com/Product_Data...ife_yellow.pdf
Artic Blend G-PLUS! It meets Chryslers HOAT specs (MS7170 and MS9769) requirements!
http://www.eetcorp.com/antifreeze/g-plus.htm
So now we have at least three brands that meet Chrysler OEM HOAT spec.
Arctic Blend® G-Plus antifreeze is dyed yellow so it can be used to top off any antifreeze without causing a color
change.
NOTE: Is the coolant in question compliant to Chrysler HOAT specifications?
If you have any question about a HOAT "compatible" coolant, look on the container label (usually in fine print) and it
will
have the compliance Spec from Chrysler MS 7170 (older) and Chrysler MS 9769 (newer).
The newer spec is MS 9769 and can be used in systems prior to 2001 (MS 7170) but not mixed. You cannot mix
older
GREEN anti-freeze with newer G-05 Ethylene Glycol but the newer spec can be used as a "replacement coolant" after
a
complete system flush. Still confused? With the newer Dodge vehicles, the Zerex G-05 is Chrylser MS 9769
compliant
and safe to use with the factory fill. Keep in mind the 50/50 ratio for best overall coolant protection.
Zerex G-05 can come in different dye color depending on vehicle and factory fill.
From http://www.englefieldoil.com/PDF/ZerexG-05QAs.pdf
From http://www.whitfieldoil.com/download...ineupChart.pdf
Ok, more on formulations.
Chrysler Group's HOAT has purposely been dyed "Orange" and can look "pink" in different light/containers.
So, although it is dyed orange, it is NOT orange like other regular (GM-Dexcool) Orange coolants??? Wha?
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08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
Only in the US can this happen.
Here is more detailed info on formulations and types/brands/OEM spec's etc.
Lots of good coolant info and pages to read here: http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...8/ai_n9453107/
FILL OR ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANT
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads and water pumps requires special corrosion protection. Only
Mopar® Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with corrosion inhibitors called
HOAT, for Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without
corrosion when mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain to obtain a freeze point of -37°C (-35°F). If it loses color
or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solution.
CAUTION:
Do not use coolant additives that are claimed to improve engine cooling.
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads and water pumps requires special corrosion protection. In order to
maintain the required protection for these components and cooling system performance, only use the appropriate fluid
(Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Capacities and Recommended Fluids - Description) when servicing the vehicle.
This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain a freeze point
of -37° C (-35° F). If it loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant
solution.
WARNING: Make sure engine cooling system is cool before removing pressure cap or any hose. severe personal
injury may result from escaping hot coolant. The cooling system is pressurized when hot.
NOTE: Cooling system fill procedure is critical to overall cooling system performance.
1. Close radiator draincock. Hand tighten only.
2. Install engine block drain plugs, if removed. Coat the threads with Mopar® Thread Sealant with Teflon.
WARNING: When installing drain hose to air bleed valve, route hose away from accessory drive belts, accessory
drive pulleys, and electric cooling fan motors.
NOTE: It may be necessary to install a bleed fitting on the 5.7L engine.
3. Attach a 1.5 - 2 m (4 - 6 ft.) long 6.35 mm (1/4 inch.) ID clear hose to bleeder fitting
Bleed Valve Location (2.7L): Located on the water outlet connector at the front of engine .
Bleed Valve Location (3.5L): Located on the lower intake manifold, left of center and below the upper intake
plenum.
Plug Location (5.7L/6.1L): Located on the front of the water outlet housing at the front of engine.
4. Route hose (2) away from the accessory drive belt, drive pulleys and electric cooling fan. Place the other end of hose
(2) into a clean container. The hose will prevent coolant from contacting the accessory drive belt when bleeding the
system during the refilling operation.
NOTE: It is imperative that the cooling system air bleed valve be opened before any coolant is added to the cooling
system.
Failure to open the bleed valve first will result in an incomplete fill of the system.
5. 5.7L/6.1L ENGINE - Install a threaded and barbed fitting (1/4 - 18 npt) into water pump housing.
6. Attach Tool 8195, Filling Aid Funnel to pressure bottle filler neck.
7. Using hose pinch-off pliers, pinch overflow hose (3) that connects between the two chambers of the coolant bottle (2).
8. Open bleed fitting.
CAUTION: Do not mix coolants. If coolant is used other than specified, a reduction in corrosion protection will
occur.
9. Pour the antifreeze mixture (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Capacities and Recommended Fluids - Description)
into the larger section of Filling Aid Funnel (the smaller section of funnel is to allow air to escape). For system capacity,
(Refer to 07 - Cooling - Specifications) .
10. Slowly fill the cooling system until a steady stream of coolant flows from the hose attached to the bleed valve.
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11. Close the bleed valve and continue filling system to the top of the Tool 8195, Filling Aid Funnel.
12. Remove pinch-off pliers from overflow hose.
13. Allow the coolant in Filling Funnel to drain into overflow chamber of the pressure bottle.
14. Remove Tool 8195, Filling Aid Funnel. Install cap on coolant pressure bottle.
15. Remove hose from bleed valve.
16. 5.7L/6.1L ENGINE - Install fitting into thermostat housing. Coat the threads with Mopar® Thread Sealant with
Teflon.
17. Start engine and run at 1500-2000 RPM for 30 minutes.
NOTE: The engine cooling system will push any remaining air into the coolant bottle within about an hour of
normal driving.
As a result, a drop in coolant level in the pressure bottle may occur. If the engine cooling system overheats and
pushes coolant into the
overflow side of the coolant bottle, this coolant will be sucked back into the cooling system ONLY IF THE
PRESSURE CAP IS LEFT
ON THE BOTTLE. Removing the pressure cap breaks the vacuum path between the two bottle sections and the
coolant will not return
to cooling system.
18. Shut off engine allow it to cool down for 30 minutes. This permits coolant to be drawn into the pressure chamber.
19. With engine COLD, observe coolant level in pressure chamber. Coolant level should be within MIN and MAX marks.
Adjust coolant level as necessary.
NOTE: The coolant bottle has two chambers. Coolant will normally only be in the inboard of the two.
The outboard chamber is only to recover coolant in the event of an overheat or after a recent service fill.
For additional information on Challenger Fill Spec's, Torque, Tools and Pictorials on drain, flush and fill
procedures, CLICK HERE.
FAQ!
Q: I am a mechanic and am bewildered with the variety of antifreezes on the market.
Is there a reference chart that summarizes what antifreeze is right for the vehicles we see in the USA?
A: Yes, EET has developed a table that can guide the mechanic or do-it-yourselfer with antifreeze compatibility
questions, see Reference chart
Tip:48
Radio Identification Codes and Single or 6 Disc CD Player?
What is your radio code on the bottom right REN, RES REQ?
REQ has a 6 disk changer. You need to press the load button to choose a number (1-6) and pick an empty slot and
then install next disc.
RES is a single disk.
RER is a NAV unit
If the window sticker states 6 CD changer then Dodge should make good.
Tip:49
Key FOB? Battery replacement? Dead FOBIK?
Read the following info:
Questions?
There's a battery in this thing? Last couple of days I had to hit the un-lock button a couple of times to get it
un-locked. Any warning
of a low battery?
Are you stuck out in the cold with a dead battery? Will the car start? I'm looking at the FOB and I don't see how you
get inside it to
change batteries.
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08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
Response 1:
There is a battery in the FOB. No worries, if the FOB dies you can always use your hard (valet) key to get in the car
but you are screwed
in trying to start it. There is a LOW battery indicator warning which should come on in your dash display when
FOB begins to get low.
Just because your FOBIK will not work does not mean it has a dead battery, read on.
Response 2:
If the battery dies in the FOBIK, it will still start the car. The FOBIK doesn't need a battery installed to start it in the
ignition. The
transponder in the FOBIK is energized by a large coil in the WIN (Wireless Ignition Node). If the battery dies, only
the RKE or keyless
go functions will stop working. To remove Start button, use small screwdriver and press the key button out from the
housing at
(bottom) 6 o'clock position. Insert the small end into the WIN slot and use it just like a key.
To open the FOBIK, just remove the valet key and use a screwdriver and put it between the top and bottom housing
where the
valet key was and twist, it will pop right open.
Response 3
From the Challenger service manual ..."The FOBIK transponder cannot be adjusted or repaired. If ineffective or
damaged, the entire
FOBIK and RKE transmitter unit must be replaced." It should be covered under your 3/36 warranty! The dealer
should have a remote
signal strength tester to fully test the entire system. Once a FOBIK is "married" to a vehicle electronically, there is
no means to use it
on any other vehicle or erase/reuse it. Only the dealer can do this programming.
Response 4
The Keyless Go system actually utilizes two controller modules and three separate antenna. One is the WIN module
and one is the
PEM (Personal Entry Module). The Keyless Go system works under the KEELOQ encryption system ( see Tip:117 ).
This system uses a "rolling code" encryption and the FOBIK may on a rare occasion become "un-synced" from the
PEM module.
When this happens the FOBIK will appear "dead" or have a dead battery, when in fact it is just "out of sync" with the
PEM module.
To find out if this is the case, you will have to pop off the START BUTTON and insert the FOBIK like a key and when
doing so it
will use the WIN module to sync the system's rolling code "counter".
Once you have used the FOBIK as a key to start the vehicle, you can then remove it after driving or whatever and
see if you
can now resume functions with the FOBIK. If it works as normal, then this is what happened it lost sync with the
"rolling code encryption counter". If this continues on a frequent basis, have the FOBIK checked by your dealer.
Also use the other spare or second FOBIK (you should have two when purchasing the vehicle) about ever six months
to keep it in sync as well.
NOTE:
Battery access is through a door located on the rear of the FOB. Insert small, flat blade screwdriver into the slot and gently pry
open the access door.
The recommended replacement battery is one CR2032.
Here is a clip right from the Challengers Owner's Manual!
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Warning! Warning! Warning!
Changing the battery in a Keyless Go (FOBIK) can be a bit dangerous to the FOBIK if it isn't done very carefully.
There are 2 very small capacitors, right on the edge of the PCB. If not re-assembled properly after changing the
battery, you have
a 50-50 chance of breaking either one or both of these capacitors or the solder joints that hold them to the PCB.
Because of this
very problem, the PCB (printed circuit bd.) had to be re-designed to move these components away from the edge.
If you break/damage one, The FOBIK will still work with all functions except the Keyless Go.
NOTE:
SEE ALSO: Tip:107 FOBIK (Key Fob) Repair and erratic operations
SEE ALSO: Tip:126 FOBIK "TRAPPED" IN WIN (Wireless Ignition Node)
Tip:50
Automatic Unlock Doors on Exit Programming
The Automatic Unlock Doors On Exit feature can be enabled or disabled. Refer to “Unlock Doors Automatically on
Exit,” under “Personal
Settings (Customer Programmable Features),” under “Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC)” in Section 4.
• When not using the EVIC, perform the following steps:
1. Enter the vehicle and close all doors.
2. Place the key in the ignition switch.
3. Within 15 seconds, cycle the ignition switch between LOCK and ON and then back to LOCK
four times ending up in the LOCK position. However, do not start the engine.
4. Within 30 seconds, depress the power door UNLOCK switch to unlock the doors.
5. A single chime will indicate the completion of the programming.
NOTE: If you do not hear the chime, it means that the system did not enter the programming mode and you will
need to repeat the procedure.
6. Repeat these steps if you want to return this feature to its previous setting.
NOTE: Use the Automatic Unlock Doors On Exit feature in accordance with local laws.2
Tip:51
Event Data Recorder (EDR): What you need to know!
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The Dodge Challenger has an electronic module called an ORC (Occupant Restraint Controller). It is quite
sophisticated in that self-checks itself in real time and communicates with other electronic modules (SCM, TIPM,
NGC). This is to ensure reliable operations in case of a required airbag deployment.
For a very detailed description of the OCR, look at this tip here; Tip:148 Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC)
In the event of an accident, your vehicle is designed to record from up to 5-15 seconds of specific vehicle data
parameters (see the following list) in an event data recorder prior to the moment of airbag deployment, or near
deployment, and up to a quarter second of high-speed deceleration data during and/or after airbag deployment.
Link to info for EDR and speed calculation. Chrysler uses basically two different mfg of data module devices for event
capture, TRW and Continental.
http://www.djdsafety.com/cmrsc21_edr_chrysler.pdf
The TRW module provides pre-crash data at 0.1 second intervals over a period of five seconds for a range of
data elements that include:
·
·
·
·
·
Vehicle speed (mph and km/h)
Engine speed (RPM)
Accelerator pedal posiƟon (%)
Engine throƩle posiƟon (%)
Brake applicaƟon (on or oﬀ)
The ConƟnental module provides these same data elements, but at 0.2 second intervals.
Understand that EDR data are ONLY recorded if an airbag deploys, or nearly deploys, and are otherwise not
unavailable.
Note: There is no continuing "driver" monitoring and recording to use vehicle data in denying a repair warranty
claim(s).
Click here for a detailed discussion of Chrysler/Dodge EDR function.
Tip:52
Jump starting Challenger - HowTo and Warnings:
Here is the correct procedure to "jump start" your Challenger using another vehicle and connections on the under
hood to do this.
Procedure is step-by-step with picture so review carefully and note the warnings at the web link below.
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/...HALLENGER.html
Tip:53
HOISTING: Challenger Lift Points, Proper-Safe Hoisting
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CHALLENGER LIFTING POINTS
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
1
2
3
3
3
3
-
DRIVE ON HOIST
FLOOR JACK, VEHICLE EMERGENCY JACK
FRAME CONTACT LIFT (SINGLE POST)
CHASSIS LIFT (DUAL LIFT)
OUTBOARD LIFT (DUAL LIFT)
FLOOR JACK
Refer to Owner's Manual provided with vehicle for proper emergency jacking procedures.
WARNING: The hoisting and jack lifting points provided are for a complete vehicle.
When the engine or rear suspension is removed from a vehicle, the center of gravity is altered making
some hoisting
conditions unstable. Properly support or secure vehicle to hoisting device when these conditions exist.
Failure to follow
these instructions may result in serious or fatal injury.
CAUTION:
Do not position hoisting device on any suspension component, including the front or rear suspension
cross members.
Do not hoist on the front and rear bumpers, the lower radiator cross member, or the front engine mount.
Do not attempt to raise one entire side of the vehicle by placing a floor jack midway between the front
and rear wheels.
This practice may result in permanent damage to the body.
When properly positioned, a floor jack can be used to lift the vehicle and support the raised vehicle with jack stands.
A floor jack or any lifting device must never be used on any part of the underbody other than the described areas.
Here is a link below to a nice slideshow of lift "jack points" in a pictorial style documentary;
http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o111/Joebagadonuts/On%20The%20Lift
//?albumview=slideshow
Tip:54
Challenger Fluid Capacities - SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION - SPECIFICATION:
Fuel Tank - V6 Engine 68 L (18 gal.)
Fuel Tank - V8 Engine 72 L (19 gal.)
Engine Oil* - 3.5 L 5.7L (6.0 qts.)
Engine Oil* - 5.7 L 6.6 L (7.0 qts.)
Engine Oil* - 6.1 L 6.6 L (7.0 qts.)
Cooling System - 3.5 L** 10.0 L (10.6 qts.)
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:
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Service Fill - NAG1 5.0 L (10.6 pts.) Overhaul Fill - NAG1 7.7 L (16.3 pts.)♦
Service Fill - 42RLE 3.8L (4.0 qts) Overhaul Fill - 42RLE 8.3L (17.6 pts)♦
♦Dry fill capacity. Depending on type and size of internal cooler, length and inside
diameter of cooler lines, or use of an auxiliary cooler, these figures may vary.
AXLE – REAR:
198 MM RII Axle 1.4L (1.5 qts.)
RECOMMENDED FLUIDS, LUBRICANTS AND GENUINE PARTS
ENGINE:
Component Fluids, Lubricants and Genuine Parts
Engine Coolant Mopar ® Antifreeze/Coolant 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula HOAT (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology)
Engine Oil (3.5 Liter) Use API Certified engine oil. SAE 10W-30 is recommended.
Refer to the engine oil viscosity chart for the correct SAE grade meeting DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
Engine Oil (5.7 Liter) Use API Certified engine oil. SAE 5W-20 is recommended.
Refer to the engine oil fill cap for the correct SAE grade meeting DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
Engine Oil 6.1 Liter) Use API rated SL/CF full synthetic engine oil, such as Mobil 1® . SAE 0W-40 is recommended.
Spark Plugs Refer to the Vehicle Emission Control Information label in the engine compartment.
Oil
Oil
Oil
Oil
Filter
Filter
Filter
Filter
(3.5 Liter) Mopar ® 05281090 or equivalent.
2008 5.7 & 6.1 Mopar 4884899AB or equivalent
Fuel Selection (3.5 Liter) 89 Octane
Fuel Selection (5.7 Liter) 89 Octane
Fuel Selection (6.1 Liter) 91-93 Octane
CHASSIS:
Component Fluids, Lubricants and Genuine Parts
Automatic Transmission Mopar ® ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid or equivalent.
Brake Master Cylinder Mopa ® DOT 3 and SAE J1703 or equivalent should be used. Use only recommended brake fluids.
Power Steering Reservoir Mopar ® Power Steering Fluid + 4, Mopar ® ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid or equivalent.
Rear Axle API Certified GL-5 SAE 75W140 Synthetic Gear Lubricant or equivalent.
CAPACITIES: DESCRIPTION U.S. Metric
Fuel (approximate)
3.5 Liter Engines (89 Octane) 18 gallons 68 liters
5.7 Liter Engines (89 Octane) 19 gallons 72 liters
6.1 Liter Engines ( 91-93 Octane) 19 gallons 72 Liters
Engine Oil-With Filter
3.5 Liter Engines (SAE 10W-30, API Certified) 6.0 qts. 5.7 liters
5.7 Liter Engines (SAE 5W-20, API Certified) 7.0 qts. 6.6 liters
6.1 Liter Engines (Mobil 1 0W40, API rated SL/CF full synthetic engine oil) 7.0 qts. 6.6 liters
Cooling System *
3.5 Liter Engines (Mopar ® Antifreeze/Coolant 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula) or equivalent. 10.6 qts 10.0 liters
* Includes heater and coolant recovery bottle filled to MAX level.
Tip:55
R/T and SRT Electrical Distribution Center Information:
For those interested in the Electrical Distribution on your RT or SRT and what fuse feeds what circuit(s). I have
gleened some
info into a page to help out. I will be continuing to add to this page and will be creating others in the future on more
basics on
our Challengers.
You can download the html document and associated pictures to a file area on your computer. If you have not created
a directory
for all your Challenger tidbits, I highly recommend you do so.
There are two primary distribution centers. One up front under the hood to the passenger side engine area called the
IPM or TIPM
Integrated Power Module, or Total Integrated Power Module. And this unit contains a computer and is a network
bridge between
the high and low speed data bus' (CAN-B and CAN-C) on the Challenger.
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08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
The other is located in the trunk area and is also called the PDC or Primary Distribution Center and is very
important as well.
A warning in the Service Manual says it should NEVER get wet. Well, duh!? Kinda like buying coffee at McDonalds
now and
seeing the warning on the Cup, HOT COFFEE?! Here is a link to Electrical Distribution and Fuses.
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/...T_RT-SRT8.html
Tip:56
TPMS TIPS: Tire Pressure Monitoring System FAQ’s
Frequently asked questions, updated information on part numbers and types of newer TPMS sensors used
on the late model Dodge Challengers.
CLICK HERE
See also: Tip:72 TPMS and Setting proper tire air pressures (cold)
Tip:57
Documents - Owner's Manuals, Dealer Brochures, Sales Documents, etc.:
Owner's Manuals in Adobe .PDF format are available for downloading at the link below.
Enter your vehicle particulars and navigate the menu to setup your document download.
2008-2012 Owners Manuals here online in Adobe PDF format;
Dodge Owner Documentation link: http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/manuals/
Dodge Challenger Service Manual(s)
Tech Authority 2009 Challenger Service Manual
https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx
- or 2008 - 2009 Dodge Challenger Service Information CD (English)
SRM Service 2009 Challenger Service Manual
2009 DODGE CHALLENGER. ENGINES: 3.5L V6 HIGH OUTPUT, 5.7L V8 HEMI, 6.1L SRT HEMI V8.
http://servicerepairmanuals.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=3&products_id=1038
MyGig Manuals
2008 MyGig REN Owners Manual (pdf 12.1 MB)
2008-2009 MyGig RER Owners Manual (pdf 27.8 MB)
MyGig RER Quick Tips (pdf 1 MB)
Other Misc. Documents
2006 Challenger Concept Press Release (pdf 16 MB)
2008 Challenger Parts Manual (pdf 4.6 MB)
2008 Challenger Press Release and Specs (pdf .08 MB)
2009
2009
2009
2009
2009
2009
2009
2009
2009
2009
2009
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Challenger
Challenger
Challenger
Challenger
Challenger
Challenger
Challenger
Challenger
Challenger
Challenger
Challenger
Accessory Quick Reference Guide (pdf 3.1 MB)
Sales Brochure - 1 (pdf 1.5 MB)
Sales Brochure - 2 (pdf 1.9 MB)
Buyers Guide and Specs (pdf .3 MB)
Press Release - Mopar Performance (pdf .01 MB)
Press Release - R/T Classic - w/pics (pdf 3.5 MB)
Press Release - SE Rallye - w/pics (pdf 10.4 MB)
Press Release - Crash Tests (pdf .01 MB)
Press Release (pdf .09 MB)
Sales Consultant Pocket Guide (pdf 1.5 MB)
Sales Consultant Product Guide (pdf .5 MB)
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
2011 Dodge Challenger SE/RT Specifications
2011 Dodge Challenger 392 SRT Feature Availability
Tip:58
2010 Owners Manual Addendum/Radio Fuse:
It states the manufacturer strongly recommends that the RADIO FUSE be removed whenever the battery is
disconnected/reconnected or replaced. This will prevent unnecessary damage to the radios electronics.
Apparently arcing or making connections improperly to the battery can damage the Radio electronics.
Having now heard of some instances in earlier models (2008-2009) it would be wise to do this in earlier model
years as well as a precaution!
For those who might not be aware of which fuse, where this is;
Fuse 36, 20A YELLOW. Rear Electrical Distribution Center (Trunk), R/T and SRT8
Picture at link below:
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/...T_RT-SRT8.html
Tip:59
NAG1 DipStick and Transmission Level Checking:
Purchase dipstick http://www.etoolcart.com/chrysler-dip-stick-gauge-9336-a.aspx
If you have a normally operating transmission with no visible external leaks, a factory fill and you would like to have
a
functioning dipstick where the StarScan is not required, do the following:
1. Purchase a dipstick as mentioned in web link above or other MOPAR source:
Chrysler Transmission Dipstick Gauge 9336-A
2. Remove tamper resistant cap.
3. With the transmission at a common ambient temperature fully insert the dipstick, and remove - note the oil
level
in the dipstick.
4. Using a fine file, mark the oil level on the dipstick.
5. Fully clean all oil and filings from the dipstick and reinstall.
6. Start the engine and run until normal operating temperature is obtained (you can use the digital engine
temperature
function of the EVIC for this if you want to be exact).
7. With the engine at normal operating temperature remove the transmission dipstick - note the oil level in the
dipstick.
8. Again, using a fine file, mark the oil level on the dipstick.
9. Fully clean all oil and filings from the dipstick and reinstall.
You now have a way to check your fluid level cold and hot.
Checking it with the engine at normal operating temperature is going to be your most accurate way as the
temperature that
the transmission oil is checked at is at a defined temperature (see step 6). I would also recommend all the other
common
steps when checking the transmission fluid such as - vehicle on level surface, in park.....etc.
Factory Service Manual for NAG1:
For those who wish to see the LX/LC NAG1 FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL procedure to do this using the dipstick, here
it is as well.
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1. Verify the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
2. Remove the dipstick tube cap.
WARNING: There is a risk of accident from vehicle starting off by itself when engine running.
There is a risk of injury from contusions and burns if you insert your hands into
the engine when it is started or when it is running. Secure vehicle to prevent it from
moving off by itself. Wear properly fastened and close-fitting work clothes.
Do not touch hot or rotating parts.
3. Actuate the service brake. Start the engine and let it run at idle speed in selector lever position "P".
4. Shift through the transmission modes several times with the vehicle stationary and the engine idling.
5. Warm up the transmission and wait at least two minutes. Check the oil level with the engine running.
Push the Oil Dipstick 9336 into the transmission fill tube until the dipstick tip contacts the oil pan.
Pull out the oil dipstick and read the oil level. Repeat if necessary.
NOTE: The dipstick protrudes from the fill tube when installed.
6. Check the transmission oil temperature using the appropriate scan tool.
NOTE: The true transmission oil temperature can only be read by a scan tool with the transmission in REVERSE or any
forward
gear position. (Refer to 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic - NAG1/CONTACT, Temperature Sensor\Park-Neutral Operation)
The temperature of the transmission oil has a considerable effect on the shifting time and therefore the shift quality.
By measuring the oil temperature, shift operations can be optimized in all temperature ranges. The transmission oil
temperature
sensor (1) is switched in series with the park/neutral contact. The temperature signal is transferred to the TCM only when the
dry-reed
contact of the park/neutral contact is closed in REVERSE or a forward gear position.
Refer to the Transmission Temperature Sensor Specifications table for the relationship between transmission temperature,
sensor
voltage, and sensor resistance.
7. The transmission Oil Dipstick 9336 has indicator marks every 10 mm. With the transmission in PARK, determine the height of the oil level
on the dipstick. Using the height, the transmission temperature and the transmission fluid graph, determine if the transmission oil level is
correct.
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8. Add or remove the oil as necessary and recheck the oil level.
9. Once the oil level is correct, install the dipstick tube cap.
Are NAG1 Fill Levels Critical?
On filling and checking the NAG1, oh yes, they are VERY sensitive to the correct fluid level.
Too little and you create foam by sucking air into the fluid, too much and the fluid gets into the rotating assembly and
foams the fluid.
Obviously, foamy is a bad thing as it compresses where transmission fluid is non-compressible.
Note: Refer to Tip:129 NAG1 TRANSMISSION FILL for more additional information on NAG1 fluid fill.
Note 2: See also Tip:179 WA580 (NAG1) Automatic Maintenance and Mercedes Parts
Tip:60
SKIPSHIFT: Modification to eliminate the 1-4 shifting in manual transmissions.
Manual Transmission, Skip shift operations;
According to the 2009 Dodge Challenger Owner's Manual, these conditions are:
(1) Engine coolant (antifreeze) is higher than 106°F (41°C)
(2) Vehicle speed is >19 mph (30 km/h) but < 21 mph (34 km/h)
(3) Transmission is in first gear, and the accelerator is at 1/4 throttle or less.
The 1–4 Skip Shift indicator message will be displayed during these times.
While this may be fine and dandy to keep the Challenger from having a "gas guzzler" tax applied, I found it a major
nuisance as I'd be looking
for 2nd gear only to be forced into 4th with the car bogging down a tad until RPMs picked up. This also typically
occurred while leaving a stop
light at a turn signal crossing traffic. Luckily this annoyance, I mean, "feature" is easily remedied.
This skip shift is achieved by use of a solenoid on the transmission which locks out the shift from 1st to 2nd much in
the same way reverse is
locked out when the car is moving in a forward direction. This solenoid relies on an electrical signal to activate, so
adding a resistor of the
proper value inline with the solenoid's connection will effectively prevent it from activating, thus eliminating the skip
shit feature.
Item purchased to be installed into solenoid harness on transmission to disable “economy shifting”.
(1) Skip Shift Solenoid
(2) Rev Lockout Solenoid
I’m the guy that is always curious and always has a question. For the skip shift solenoid you say its threaded into
the left side of the tranny case.
What would be your left here? From underneath with your head towards the back (front jacked)? I’m just trying to
put in my skip shift eliminator
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08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
and I do not want to end up placing it in the reverse lockout solenoid spot. I’m trying to do this right the first time so
I do not have to worry about
screwing something up!
Refer to item balloon (1) as the Skip Shift Solenoid.
The “skip shift” is a transmission function that eliminates the possibility of shifting into 2nd gear (and 3rd on most
systems) from 1st gear when you
are within certain parameters. It blocks your shift and forces you go into 4th gear. Needless to say it is annoying but
it serves it's purpose of dodging
the gas guzzler tax on the R/T's.
NOTE:
CEL code throwing upon addition of Skip Shift harness: P0803.
It's the code you get on the 09 SRT8 (and probably others) for when the skip shift harness is not connected or
working properly.
Here is a link to product and information on Skip Shift Device(s) for Challenger.
http://www.speedysgarage.net/challengerweb/challenger_mods/challenger_sse/challenger_sse.htm
Tip:61_
Challenger HORN operations
Be advised that your Challenger vehicle HORN only works when the vehicle is powered on. If IGN or ACC is not
turned on the vehicle HORN will not operate!
So if you are sitting in Walmart parking lot and see someone backing into you and the vehicle is off, the HORN will
not operate!
Tip:62_
Locking GAS Cap
For those who like to have their vehicle secure, and with the price of gas continuing to escalate you can add a locking
gas cap to the vehicle. This will also prevent pranks or someone of evil intent on doing anything to the gasoline in
the vehicle as well. Have some peace of mind. Advance Auto and Auto Zone carry a good quality fit locking cap.
CST (Cooling Systems Technologies) Auto Zone part #5907 (about $15.00)
Also Stant ST11508 (replaces previous p/n ST10508) is the locking fuel cap part number that fits virtually every
Chrysler/Dodge car from 2001 - present.
They sell for between $10.00 - $24.00, depending on where you look.
NOTE: Don’t bother with Dodge/Chrysler’s locking gas cap p/n 5278655-AB CAP FUEL 1039001 (price $21.75.)
If you press down hard on the cap and twist it will come off without being unlocked!
Tip:63_
Headlights On with Wipers (Available with Auto Headlights Only)
When this feature is active, the headlights will turn on approximately 10 seconds after the wipers are turned on if the
headlight switch is placed in the AUTO (A) position. In addition, the headlights will turn off when the wipers are
turned off if they were turned on by this feature.
The Headlights On with Wipers feature can be enabled or disabled. Refer to ”Headlights On with Wipers,” under
“Personal Settings (Customer-Programmable Features)” under “Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC)” in
Section 4. (pg.121 R/T Owner's Manual)
Tip:64_
IPOD Integration cable goes where?
Q: The owner's manual says plug it in the center console but I do not see any outlet. Where is it?
A: The cable does go in to the center console, open the center console look in the front of it just beneath the coin
holders and
to the driver's side you should see a receptacle it will be under a plastic cover. One will be a round cover to
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08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
protect the 12V
Power Port and on the same forward bulkhead will be a rectangular cover toward the driver side for the UCI port.
Q: I don't see any other plug in my console other than the 12V Power Port plug?
A: You must have the UCI option (part of the Electronic Options Pkg) to have this port option feature. You will also
be provided
16-pin interface connector cable to attach the iPOD unit as part of this option.
NOTE: 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual
UNDERSTANDING YOUR INSTRUMENT PANEL pg 218
UNIVERSAL CONSUMER INTERFACE (UCI) — IF EQUIPPED
NOTE: This section is for sales code RES and REQ/REL/RET radios only with uconnect_. For sales code RER, REN and
REZ
touch-screen radio UCI feature, refer to the separate RER, REN or REZ User’s Manual. UCI is available only if
equipped as an
option with these radios. This feature allows you to plug an iPod_ into the vehicle’s sound system through a 16–pin
connector
using the provided interface cable.
UCI supports Mini, 4G, Photo, Nano, 5G iPod_ and iPhone_ devices. Some iPod_ software versions may not fully
support
the UCI features. Please visit Apple’s website for software updates.
NOTE:
• If the radio has a USB port, connecting an iPod_ to this port does not play the media. For playing an iPod_,
the separate
16–pin connector port located in the center console.
use
• Connecting an iPod_ to the AUX port located in the radio faceplate, plays media, but does not use the UCI feature to
control the connected device.
Connecting The iPod_
Use the optional connection cable to connect an iPod_ to the vehicle’s 16–pin connector port located on the center
console.
Once the iPod_ is connected and synchronized to the vehicle’s UCI system (iPod_ may take a few seconds to connect),
the iPod_ starts
charging and is ready for use by pressing radio switches, as described below.
NOTE:
• You may have to remove the connector pin protection cap from the 16–pin connector port, prior to connecting the
cable.
• If the iPod_ battery is completely discharged, it may not communicate with the UCI system until a minimum charge
is attained.
Leaving the iPod_ connected to the UCI system may charge it to the required level.
Tip:65_
HOT SURFACE WARNING - Under dash!
Has anyone felt all that heat coming out from under the dash on the driver's side, right above your right leg? Nicely
covered up by the carpeted protector lies the heater core piping. These lines transition right over your leg as your
foot sits on the gas pedal. I hope they never leak or we will all end up with 1st degree burns! Couldn't Dodge the
engineers find a better route for the pipes? This is definitely an accident or "BURN" waiting to happen.
Warning: Don't go in there after you have run your car for a while, you will definitely get your hands burned if you
come in contact with them.
Tip:66_
Functional Factory Hood Scoops for R/T’s
Full Description OEM functional hood scoop bezels Challenger SRT8 and R/T’s. These are the fully functional hood
scoop bezels
that allow air to enter the engine compartment. Use these to replace the “dummy” hood scoops on your R/T!
This includes both the LH and RH hood scoop bezel.
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08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
PT# 55399338AB
PT# 55399339AB
Here is a link to a do it yourself video on easy installation of replacement hood scoops for the dummies.
2009 R/T Functional hood Scoop Installation!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SePkQR--u1M
Tip:67_
Challenger Deluxe Splash Guards
For those who wish MOPAR brand for your Challenger here's the part numbers. Protect wheel wells and lower body.
MOPAR Splash Guards part numbers are:
Front - 82211683AC
Rear - 82211684AC
Alternate source and style for fender guards!
Stealth Fender Guards
http://www.rpidesigns.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=1558
Tip:68_
Where to Find Your Vehicle Manufacture Date
On the Challenger open the driver's side door and on the right of the pillar or end of the door there is the MDH #.
The MDH # on the bottom row of your door sticker stands for Month/Day/Hour of vehicle manufacture.
Tip:69_
Challenger Spark Plug Info!
Spark plug data, part information, etc. is LACKING completely in the Dodge 2009 Service manual under the 5.7L part
information. Yes, there is information in the Owner's Manual concerning this part but it lacks the very specific and
important TORQUE requirement.
Apparently the Dodge Service Manual DOES stress high importance of proper spark plug torque when installing
new plugs!!
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Challenger Spark Plugs (note the different plugs for the different engines)
HEMI 6.1L PLZTR5A-13 (Gap 0.050 in [1.27 mm]) Torque to 12-14 Ft. lbs.*
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
HEMI 5.7L LZFR5C–11 (Gap 0.043 in [1.1 mm]) Torque to 12-14 Ft. lbs.*
* Torque critical tapered design. Do not exceed 15 ft. lbs. *
That warning is something the owner's manual lacks.
Here is a website with some good Spark Plug information applicable to our Challengers. Bookmark it!
http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_sparkplugs.htm
For a DIY (Do It Yourself) write up!
To those who have tools (torque wrench, etc.) here is a good procedure with pictures, recommended
parts list and important notes.
Changing Spark Plugs on a GEN-3 HEMI
Tip:70_
Locking Challenger without enabling VTSS (Alarm)
There will come a time when you want to lock the vehicle but not engage or enable the VTSS Alarm System. The
alarm system
does place a considerable amount of load on the battery when enabled. So, to reduce battery load and keep the
vehicle locked
like inside a garage or secure facility, you can do the following.
1) Open your door press the armrest lock and as you get out pull up the knob by the window and push it back
down.
2) After closing the door look inside at your Dash left gauge and make sure the red light (LED) is not flashing. If it is,
use
the FOBIK to unlock the door, open door and press the window door lock knob down again and check after closing.
Your alarm system will be disabled!
Tip:71
TSB, RRT and RECALL’s (General terminology)
Q: Just what is the difference in these? Recall, Tech service bulletin, Rapid Response Transmittal?
A: Here are some general basic descriptions of the following terms:
TSB:
A Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) is intended for dealers and auto mechanics. A TSB will contain information about
a common issue and information on how to correct it. Dealers use this information when dealing with warranty
service.
TSB information is maintained by the NHTSA.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/
Rapid Response Transmittal:
A Rapid Response Transmittal is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) but is of a higher priority or importance than that
of a standard TSB. This also is intended for dealers and auto mechanics. A normal TSB may or may not be
implemented
in the course of a vehicle repair as it can and often is done at the discretion of the dealer.
Unless the problem described in the TSB is identical to that of the complaint or repair item, and the dealer/mechanic
looks for this situation or condition then usually the TSB is followed. The RRT is of a higher level or importance here.
It informs the dealers and mechanics that a known problem exists and that should look for conditions stated in the
RRT on new vehicles or/as they come in for service, or in the case of the particulars of the RRT contact the owner
and have them bring the vehicle in for service at the earliest convenience. Usually this is done to help dealer avoid
warranty work costs that will eventually come at a later date.
Recall:
Vehicle manufactures must recall a vehicle if it does not meet federally mandated safety regulations or if there is a
major flaw in design. If there is a recall on your vehicle, a dealer will inspect or replace the flawed components as
needed. DIYAutoTech has recall notices dating back to 1966.
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08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
For a current up to date listing of Challenger TSB's, RRT's and other technical informational releases
please see: Tip:153 Dodge Challenger TSB, RRT and Safety Recall List
Tip:72
TPMS and Setting proper tire air pressures (cold)
Q: Ok when the light came on it showed on the screen 29 all around but that one was 28. I put some air in it and it
went up to 30. Light stayed on. Drove it about 120 miles total, then parked it. Today I go run it and it shows 30 all
around but light still came on. Then as I drove it and stopped it going to the store, came back and it showed 28 all
around with light still on. Keep in mind that the whole time the front right tire on the warming screen kept blinking
on that side. I've not done anything to the wheels, they are totally stock. Someone said it could be a bad sensor.
A: [2009 Challenger Owner's Manual pg 307]
The TPMS will continue to warn the driver of low tire pressure as long as the condition exists, and will not turn off
until the tire pressure is at or above the recommended cold placard pressure. Once the low tire pressure warning
(Tire Pressure Monitoring [TPM] Telltale Light) illuminates, you must increase the tire pressure to the recommended
cold placard pressure (32 psi) in order for the TPM Telltale Light to turn off. The system will automatically update
and the TPM Telltale Light will turn off once the system receives the updated tire pressures. The vehicle may need to
be driven for up to 20 minutes above 15 mph (25 km/h) in order for the TPMS to receive this information.
For example, your vehicle may have a recommended cold (parked for more than three hours) placard pressure of 30
psi (207 kPa). If the ambient temperature is 68°F (20°C) and the measured tire pressure is 27 psi (186 kPa), a
temperature drop to 20°F (-7°C) will decrease the tire pressure to approximately 23 psi (158 kPa). This tire pressure
is sufficiently low enough to turn ON the TPM Telltale Light.
Driving the vehicle may cause the tire pressure to rise to approximately 27 psi (186 kPa), but the TPM Telltale Light
will still be ON. In this situation, the TPM Telltale Light will turn OFF only after the tires are inflated to the vehicle’s
recommended cold placard pressure value.
TIP: Get an accurate tire pressure gauge AND Set cold tire pressures to 32 psig (on driver door jamb
label).
See also: Tip:56 TPMS TIPS: Tire Pressure Monitoring System FAQ’s
Tip:73
FREE Mopar Desktop Screensavers!
Mopar Screensavers - A collection of free Mopar screensavers featuring Chrysler, Dodge and Plymouth cars and
Trucks for your computer. Each version features full screen Mopar related images*. Designed for Microsoft Windows
Vista, XP, 2000, ME, 98 and NT.
Our screensaver collection offers a fun, safe and easy way download Mopar related screensavers. Collection Features
a great selection of high-quality and professionally designed screensavers. Each screensaver in this collection has
been
tested for quality and contains no adware, no spyware and is virus checked. Plus the Mopar Ring does not require you
to
register your e-mail to download or use our screensavers.
http://www.mopar-ring.org/screensavers/
Tip:74
Great Challenger Clothing, Jackets, Hats, Tee shirts, Gifts and much more!
Shop for unique gifts on CafePress! Find the perfect gift from our selection of t-shirts, posters and more.
Plus find gifts that will fit any budget. Tee shirts, Caps, hoodies, mugs, and much more just look at the
long list of vendor links below;
http://shop.cafepress.com/dodge-challenger?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&
Great Tee's here:
http://www.zazzle.com/dodge_challenger_t_tshirt-235732571490052809
http://www.thefind.com/apparel/browse-dodge-challenger-t~shirt
http://www.musclecarapparel.com/dodge-apparel-and-gifts/dodge-challenger-apparel.html
46 of 177
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
http://www.1maddmax.com/md234challenger09.html
http://www4.dealtime.com/-dodge+challenger+clothing
http://www.motorbrandsusa.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=W10-400-PLUMCRAZY
http://www.thet-shirtguy.com/JFPInt/challenger.htm
http://www.brickelsracing.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CF1087019
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/shirts_and_tee_shirts.htm
Jackets, Hats, Gloves, Shirts and miscellaneous apparel are here:
http://www.zazzle.com/dodge+challenger+hats
http://www.newchallengerstore.com/Challenger_Products_Apparel_Hats_Gloves.htm
http://www.choko.com/browse_by_brand.php?category_id=5&scndctgry_id=8
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/New-Challenger-T-Shirts-And-Apparel
http://www.dodgerodeo.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=2&option=com_virtuemart&
Itemid=2
http://www.proracingshop.com/cat_dodge_jackets_shirts.cfm
(custom embroidery available here)
http://www.autotrucktoys.com/dodge-challenger/Dodge-Challenger-Hats-CAT5445.aspx
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/hats.htm
http://clothing.shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&
_nkw=Dodge+Challenger+Hat&_sacat=11450
License Plate Frames, Leather Steering wheel Gloves/skins, Floor Mats, Key Chains,
valve caps, Dash covers, etc.
http://www.cafepress.com/+dodge-challenger+license_plate_frames
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=Dodge+Challenger+License+plate+frame&_arm=1
http://clothing.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=Dodge+Challenger+Jacket&_sacat=11450&_dmpt=
http://www.storesonline.com/site/564545/product
/Dodge%20Leather%20Steering%20Wheel%20Covers
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=dodge+challenger+accessories
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/srt8-challenger-mats.html
http://ptboutique.com/items/coverking/dodge-challenger
/dodge_challenger_coverking_custom_tailored_velour_dash_cover-detail.htm
http://www.brickelsracing.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MH-1703&variation
http://www.high-end-motorsports.com/shop-by-vehicle-r-t-srt8.html
Tip:75
Temperature Sensor Support on HEMI Engine
47 of 177
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
Q: Anyone notice a difference in their water temps in the normal EVIC mode and the "easter egg" mode?
Today I switched after looking at the temp in the easter egg, it was 190 then I switched to normal and it said
203??
I think that is a big enough difference to ask the question...WTF? Thanks!
A: Your question is easily answered once we clarify some technical items first. What you are referring to is the ECT
(Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor.
(1.) There are not two ECT Sensors in the Challenger vehicle.
(2.) There are not two ECT Sensor displays in EVIC monitoring.
I believe you are confusing Engine Oil Temperature Sensor reading with the Coolant (ECT) Sensor.
I don't particularly like using the term "Easter Egg" EVIC mode, as technically it's no secret and it has no secret
message(s) to convey, which the term "Easter Egg" is primarily supposed to convey.
I like to use the terms Primary EVIC Display and Secondary EVIC Display.
The Primary EVIC display is documented to a limited extent, but the Secondary display mode is not on the R/T
model. I think this was either an oversight or the software was left incomplete at the time of release for R/T, and
that is was not conveyed publicly. The SRT has this "complete" secondary menu with several more functions that
actually work. The latter actually makes a lot of more sense to me. In the R/T you are not going to get the complete
software package as you get in the SRT8.
Ok, what are we looking at?
If you are looking at a Temperature in the Primary Display it will be along with the Oil Pressure Reading and note the
Oil Can with drop ICON. The Oil Temp Display has the same Icon. Since this is the Primary EVIC screen, it would
make no sense to duplicate an Engine Coolant Temp when you have a Big Analog Gauge right there in front of you to
the right.
In the Secondary EVIC mode, the ECT reading is on the same screen as Speedometer, Battery Voltage and Digital
Tachometer.
Now, when you start the engine up cold, the two temps (oil and coolant) will track pretty close together up until the
T-STAT opens. When I am watching my engine operations (180T-Stat) I note that on the highway, the temps will
read very close during warm-up for about 4-5 min's maybe and then the oil will continue to climb to anywhere from
8-12 deg.F higher before stabilizing.
This make complete sense as oil would be more directly in contact with engine parts and absorbing heat, etc. Note,
the on the 5.7L HEMI, the ECT is right there on the right of the lower TB housing, and on the 6.1L HEMI, the ECT is
over on the left front engine below the front coil pack just above the EOT (oil) sensor.
So, maybe on the 6.1L the two would track closer, being mounted within a few inches of each other.
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08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
Tip:76
Challenger SRT and RT Wheel Lug Info
2008-2010 (see below for 2011 change)
The R/T and the SRT use the same factory hardened lug nut. Dodge p/n 06507826AA.
Lug Wheel pattern 5x115
Lug nuts thread 14mmx1.50 (Note Dim: A in print below )
NOTE 1: Use a 21MM deep impact socket (6 point) to remove/replace lugs. A 12 point socket may correctly fit but can
cause
damage to the lug nut finish as these use high torque's.
NOTE 2: IMPORTANT!
R/T wheel lugs: Torque to 100 ft.lbs cold (135 N·m). (Ref. Owner's Manual 2009 pg. 351, section 6)
SRT wheel lugs: Torque to 110 ft.lbs cold (150 N-m). (Ref. 09 Challenger (LC) Service Manual, Sec 22.4)
Here is a OEM mechanical drawing (2008-2010) of the lug nut below:
For those who want an alternative to OEM lugs, the next best thing or to many a better option is GORILLA
lugs.
Direct OEM Stock replacement (2008-2010): Use 21 MM lug wrench!
14mm x 1.5mm conical seat, Bulge, 60 deg. Seat, set of 4, $ 7.39
Size Std closed end, 5 sets needed.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-91147/
Large/deep OEM stock replacment:
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08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
14mm x 1.5mm conical seat, Bulge, 60 deg. Seat, set of 4, $10.49
Size XL – Large Set, 5 sets needed.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-91147XL/
Alternate vendor/source
Aftermarket Replacement Lugnuts; Gorilla
For OEM Dodge
rims - yes. Research/google these item numbers:
Gorilla Automotive 61147BCH Black Chrome Acorn Bulge Lug Nut (14mm x 1.50 Thread Size)
also; Amazon.com:
Gorilla Lug
– 91147B-20 (Acorn Bulge/60 deg.)
If you need spec's or want reference Gorilla lug nut documentation:
Gorilla Lug DOC link: http://www.gorilla-auto.com/pdf/GAG10.pdf
Have Classic Wheels?
Need wheel locks? Exposed tapered lug wheel lock kit #82210879 (Chrysler)
2011 Challenger UPDATE!
Note: Looks now that the factory has made a change on the OEM lug nut size for this model year.
The thread and taper are the same but the nut size has changed from 21 MM to 22 MM. Take note
that a 21 MM six point socket will not fit and you are required to use a 22 MM six point socket.
Tip:77
How can I remove the factory stripes on my R/T?
You can use a hair dryer on a warm day and remove decal slowly. Afterward clean and hand wax out any residue that
remains.
It came out great on my black R/T. If your stripes have been on a while and you've seen a lot of sun, you may need to take
additional steps to tackle fading issues depending on the color?
Goo Gone and other 3M type adhesive removers may aid on removing any residual adhesive.
Tip:78
50 of 177
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
DODGE Acronyms Glossary!
MOPAR = Motor Parts or Chrysler Corporation Motor Parts Division
SE = Standard Edition-Base Trim Level on the Challenger
RT or R/T = Road and Track- Mid Trim Level on the Challenger
SRT (Street and Racing Technology) Top Trim on the Challenger
Acronym Glossary
A/C
AAT
ABM
ABS
ACC
ACT
AFLS
AHBM
AHLM
AHM
ALS
AMP
APM
APPS
APS
ASCM
ASD
ASBS
AT
ATC
ATF
ATX
AWD
AZC
BARO
BCM
BPS
BSM
BTS
BTSI
BUX
CAB
CAN
CAN
CCD
CCN
CGW
CHMSL
CKP
CKT
CMP
CMTC
CPA
CTM
CVI
DAB
DC
DCHA
DDM
DEF
DISP
DLC
DMFL
DMFR
DMRL
DMRR
DOHC
DR
DRBIII
DRV
51 of 177
Air Conditioning
Ambient Air Temperature
Antilock Brake Module
Antilock Brake System
Adaptive Cruise Control
Actuator
Adaptive Front Lighting System
Automatic High Beam Module
Automatic Headlamp Leveling Module
Auxiliary Heater Module
Active lighting system (lights follow steering)
Amplifier
Adjustable Pedal Module
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
Adjustable Pedals System
Air Suspension Control Module
Auto Shut Down
Automatic Sway Bar System
Automatic Transmission-Rear Wheel Drive
Automatic Temperature Control
Automatic Transmission Fluid
Automatic Transmission-Front Wheel Drive
All Wheel Drive
Automatic Zone Control
Barometric
Body Control Module
Bladder Pressure Sensor
Blind Spot Module
Belt Tension Sensor
Brake Transmission Shift Interlock
Built-Up Export
Controller Antilock Brake
Controller Area Network
IHS Controller Area Network - Interior High Speed
Chrysler Collision Detection
Cabin Compartment Node
Central Gateway
Center high mount stop lamp
Crank Position Sensor
Circuit
Camshaft Position Sensor
Compass/Mini-Trip Computer
Connector Positive Assurance
Compass Temperature Module
Clutch Volume Index
Driver Airbag
Direct Current
Diesel Cabin Heater Assist
Driver Door Module
Diesel Exhaust Fluid
Display
Data Link Connector
Door Module Front Left
Door Module Front Right
Door Module Rear Left
Door Module Rear Right
Dual Over Head Cam
Door
Diagnostic Readout Box, 3rd Generation
Driver
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
DTC
DTCM
EATX
EBL
ECM
ECT
EGR
EMCC
EOM
EPS
ESM
ETC
ETS
EVBP
EVIC
FCM
FCV
FDCM
FEMCC
FSM
GCC
GEN
GPEC
HCU
HE
HFM
HIDT
HSM
HVAC
I/C
IAC
IAT
ICU
ICS
IOD
IP
IPC
IPM
IR
IRT
ISS
ITBM
ITM
JBLK
JTEC
KDB2
KNB
KS
LDP
LDU
LED
LIN
LHD
LR
LRSM
LT
LU
MAP
MDS
MIC
MIL
MLS
MSMAPM
MSMD
MT
MTC
MTV
MTX
MUX
NAV
NGC
NVLD
O2S
OAT
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Diagnostic Trouble Code
Drivetrain Control Module
Electronic Automatic Transaxle
Electric Back Lite (Rear Window Defogger)
Engine Control Module (Diesel)
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
Exhaust Gas Re-Circulation
Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch
Electronic Overhead Module
Electric Power Steering
Electronic Shift Module
Electronic Throttle Control
Evaporator Temperature Sensor
Electronic Variable Brake Proportioning
Electronic Vehicle Information Center
Front Control Module
Flow Control Valve
Final Drive Control Module
Full Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch
Folding Seat Module
Gulf Coast Countries
Generator
Global Powertrain Engine Controller
Hydraulic Control Unit
Hall Effect
Hands Free Module
High Intensity Discharge Transducer
Heated Seat Module
Heater Ventilation, Air Conditioning
Integrated Circuit
Idle Air Control Motor
Intake/Inlet Air Temperature Sensor
Integrated Control Unit
Integrated Center Stack
Ignition Off Draw
Instrument Panel
Instrument Panel Cluster
Integrated Power Module
Infrared
Intelligent Recovery Timer
Input Speed Sensor
Integrated Trailer Brake Module
Intrusion Transceiver Module
Junction Block
Jeep & Truck Engine Control Module
Keyboard Data Bus, 2nd Generation
Knee Blocker Airbag
Knock Sensor
Leak Detection Pump
Lower Drive Unit
Light Emitting Diode
Local Interconnect Network
Left Hand Drive
Low/Reverse Clutch or Pressure Switch
Light Rain Sensor Module
Left
Lockup
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
Multi Displacement System
Mechanical Instrument Cluster
Malfunction Indicator Lamp
Multi Layer Steel
Memory Seat/Mirror/Adjustable Pedals Module
Memory Seat Module
Manual Transmission-Rear Wheel Drive
Manual Temperature Control
Manifold Tuning Valve
Manual Transmission-Front Wheel Drive
Multiplex
Navigation
Next Generation Controller
Natural Vacuum Leak Detection
Oxygen Sensor
Outside Air Temperature
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
OBD
OBD-I
OBD-II
OCM
OCS
OCSVR
OD
ODO
ORC
OSS
P/M
PAB
PASS
PCI
PCM
PCV
PDC
PDM
PEM
PEMCC
PEP
PLG
PLGM
PLU
PSD
PSDM
PSDML
PSDMR
PSM
PSI
PTCM
PTIM
PTS
PWM
PWR
RCM
REV
RF
RHD
RKE
RT
RTV
RX
S/C
SAB
SAS
SBEC
SBM
SBS
SBT
SCA
SCM
SCCM
SDAR
SDARV
SKIM
SKIS
SKREEM
SKREES
SLPK
SOHC
SOL
SRS
SRV
SSV
SUNR
SW
SWS
TCC
TCCM
TCM
TCS
TGW
TIP
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On Board Diagnostics
On Board Diagnostic specification 1 (1991-1995)
On Board Diagnostic specification 2 (1996 and up)
Occupant Classification Module
Occupant Classification System
Occupant Classification System Verification Required
Overdrive Clutch or Pressure Switch
Odometer
Occupant Restraint Controller
Output Speed Sensor
Pump Motor
Passenger Airbag
Passenger
Programmable Communication Interface
Powertrain Control Module
Positive Crankcase Ventilation
Power Distribution Center
Passenger Door Module
Passive Entry Module
Partial Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch
Peripheral Expansion Port
Power Liftgate
Power Liftgate Module
Partial Lockup
Power Sliding Door
Power Sliding Door Module
Power Sliding Door Module Left
Power Sliding Door Module Right
Programmable Special Module
Pounds Per Square Inch
Power Top Control Module
Police and Taxi Interface Module
Parktronics
Pulse Width Modulated
Power
Roof Control Module
Reverse Clutch
Radio Frequency
Right Hand Drive
Remote Keyless Entry
Right
Room Temperature Vulcanizing
Receive
Speed Control
Seat Airbag
Steering Angle Sensor
Single Board Engine Controller
Switch Bank Module
Seat Belt Switch
Seat Belt Tensioner
Shift Cover Assembly
Steering Control Module
Steering Column Control Module
Satellite Digital Audio Receiver
Satellite Digital Audio Receiver Video
Sentry Key Immobilizer Module
Sentry Key Immobilizer System
Sentry Key Remote Entry Module
Sentry Key Remote Entry System
Solenoid Pack
Single Over Head Cam
Solenoid
Supplemental Restraint System
Short Runner Valve
Solenoid Switch Valve
Sunroof
Switch
Seat Weight Sensor
Torque Converter Clutch
Transfer Case Control Module
Transmission Control Module
Traction Control System
Telematics Gateway
Throttle Inlet Pressure
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
TIPM
TIRM
TM
TP
TPM
TPMS
TPS
TRD
TRS
TX
UD
VES
VFD
VPWM
VSIM
VSS
VTSS
WCM
WIN
WOT
WSS
Totally Integrated Power Module
Traffic Information Receiver Module
Trailer Module
Throttle Position
Tire Pressure Monitor
Tire Pressure Monitor System
Throttle Position Sensor
Torque Reduction
Transmission Range Sensor
Transmit
Underdrive Clutch
Vehicle Entertainment System
Vacuum Fluorescent Display
Variable Pulse Width Modulated
Vehicle System Interface Module
Vehicle Speed Sensor/Signal
Vehicle Theft Security System
Wireless Control Module
Wireless Ignition Node
Wide Open Throttle
Wheel Speed Sensor
Now in addition, there will be terms normally used in automotive articles and conversation that might not be familiar to you, such as "unsprung
this link below to see more definitions and tips for terms used.
http://www.lateralg.org/tips/defs.htm
Tip:79
What is the Best Oil Filter for our Challenger?
Well, there are a lot of good paper element based filters on the market, Purolator PureONE, Mobil 1 Extended
Performance, Purolator L14612 Classic Oil Filter, WIX, AmSOIL, and Baldwin to name a few here.
The PureONE consistently performs at the top when it comes to filtering capability. The paper/fiber element has more
filtering material and surface area than other filters and internal construction is very good. There are some concerns
about oil restriction because the filter element is so dense, and if you have a high performance engine you may be
better off with the more expensive Mobil 1 oil filters. However, the PureONE’s excellent filtering capability, high
quality construction, and affordable price make it a top overall pick.
Though I should note that Chrysler (or was it Ford) did some testing a couple of decades ago which showed that there
were measurable long term wear benefits to filtering particles smaller than 9 microns, which is considerably smaller
than what we normally worry about. (Pure One is nominally rated at 5 microns. Far better than any other filter of
which I am aware.)
Note: AmSOIL EA files comply with ISO 4548-12 of 98.7 percent at 15 microns, and Purolator does not advertise
adherence or compliance to ISO 4548-12.
For size reference, the average human blood cell width is approx 7-8 microns
The P1's official filtration specs:
40 Micron: 100%
30 Micron: 100%
25 Micron: 100%
20 Micron: 99.9%
15 Micron: 99.2%
10 Micron: 92.8%
5 Micron: 51.3%
Q: What is the "Best" Oil Filter available for Challenger!
A: Amsoil (EA011)
This information comes straight from AMSOIL Tech Service. Amsoil has recently released a new filter for the Dodge
Challenger. The part number is EAO11.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx?zo=5931
5.7L, 6.1L Hemi 2009-2012
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08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
Oil Filter 25,000-Mile Ea Oil Filter (EAO11)
Oil Filter
WIX 57899 Oil Filter
Air Filter
WIX 42843 Air Filter
[1]
[1] Replaces the EaO48, which will still work for this vehicle
AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters
• Ea Filters designated with product code Ea15K are recommended for 15,000 miles/one year, whichever comes first, in normal or
severe service.
• Ea Filters designated with product code EaO are recommended for 25,000 miles/one year, whichever comes first, in normal service or
15,000 miles/one year, whichever comes first, in severe service
Challenger 2008-2012 (5.7L/6.1L) 25,000-Mile Ea Oil Filter (EAO11)
AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters (EAO) have the best efficiency rating in the industry. EaO Filters provide a filtering efficiency in
accordance with industry standard ISO 4548-12 of 98.7 percent at 15 microns, while competitive filters containing
conventional cellulose medias range from 40 to 80 percent efficiency. Again, for reference the size of a human blood
cell is 7-8 microns. Although the EA048 has a very high mileage rating, I tend to change filters with oil changes to
synchronize events.
Web Link to your local suppliers:
http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/links/Amsoil%20Links.htm
Note Also:
Look at installing a Fumoto Oil Drain Valve as part of your oil changing modifications.
This is explained in detail in Tip:141 Fumoto Oil Drain Valve on Dodge Challenger
Q: How can one maximize the oil filtration to trap possible metallic particle debris (engine wear)?
A: What I do is another level to the AMSOIL filtering system as I add both a magnetic oil plug, FilterMag filter magnet
and a transmission pan magnet to capture all possible metallic particle shed in these lubrication systems; See also
Tip:158 FilterMag, Trans Pan Mag and Magnetic Oil Plug systems.
Tip:80
How to Adjust When Auto HID Headlights Turn On
For those who have the EVIC option, you can do the following if your HID adjustments are coming on too late (too
dark) for
your personal preference.
1) IGN Key on. Doesn't matter if the engine is running or not.
2) Hold the Compass and Music note key simultaneously for about 5-7 seconds
3) Move the up arrow (or down arrow if you prefer) on the left hand side of your steering wheel.
For this exercise, we will be toggle the "up" arrow
4) First stop is a digital tachometer and some other digital sensor readings.
5) Next toggle is Temp and a Chinese character.
6) Next toggle is Compass digital readings
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08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
7) Next toggle is MinL and MinR stuff. This is values associated with left and right fuel tank
levels in pints (i.e. value divided by 8 = gallons)
8) Next toggle is your headlight sensor adjustment page.
On the left hand side of your steering wheel, you can adjust the HID sensitivity (when it comes on automatically) in
units of 2.
You adjust with the arrow that points to the right on the left side of your steering wheel.
I believe this is a lumens unit but don't hold me to that. Anyway, the factory setting in the SRT's is 180. You can only
scroll
upward in units of 2 until you get to 220, then the next number is 150.
From 150, keep scrolling the numbers higher until you hit 170. That setting works really well- the HID's will come on
sooner
but not too soon. They'll turn on deep inside a car wash, but turn off of course at the exit.
Tip:81
Wireless USB Dodge Challenger Computer Mouse!
Dodge Challenger Series Car Mouse. Cruise the Web in Style with Road Mice's Wireless Optical Mouse with USB
receiver utilizing
the latest RF and optical technology. These unique mice are high performance accessories with 800-dpi resolution for
enhanced
accuracy and precision movement. PC and Mac compatible. Road Mice's car mouse designs have the look of a replica
automobile
and the functionality of the best pointing devices on the market.
The functioning headlights and smooth lines give the car a realistic look and feel. A must have for car enthusiasts and
collectors.
http://roadmice.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RM-08DGCLOXK&
Category_Code=DODGE_MICE
Current colors are HEMI Orange, Grey, Deep Water Blue
Tip:82
2009 Dodge Challenger R/T: Suspension Walk Around Informational Article (Edmunds)
There's more to the 2009 Dodge Challenger than a retro body and a 5.7-liter Hemi V8. It's got a modern suspension
inside those
full-figured wheel wells, and there are a couple of surprises.
More great information on R/T suspension from Edmunds at:
http://blogs.insideline.com/roadtests/2009/05/2009-dodge-challenger-rt-suspension-walkaround.html
Tip:83
Vehicle Build Date
Q: How can you tell the exact date your car was built? I don't see it anywhere on the window sticker.
A: Open driver's side door and look on right of the pillar or end of the door. Look for MDH number.
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The MDH # on bottom row of your door sticker stands for: Month/Day/Hour of manufacture.
Tip:84
Speedometer Verification (Extended EVIC)
Verification of the following items:
Total Engine Runtime Hours (Driving)
Total Engine Runtime Hours (Idle/sitting)
To gain access you need to have an extended EVIC operation.
1) The engine must not be running. Have it in accessory mode
2) Press/hold Compass and Music note for 6 seconds to gain access to extended EVIC.
3) Navigate to any area that shows the miles on the car.
4) Now press and hold the "trip reset pin" for 8-10 seconds.
A) The first item displayed is labeled Hrs.
This number is the total engine hours (it does not include accessory modes). This information is used to compare
engine damage for
warranty claims and graphed to show patterns or trends. Also to show if the speedometer was un-plugged to keep the
mileage down.
B) Press the "trip pin again" and the next labeled item is Idle.
This is the total amount of time the engine was running and the car was not in motion.
Example: Stopped in traffic, letting the car warm up etc.
Tip:85
PCM SETTINGS KEEPER
Changing out battery, steering angle sensor and use of a "SETTINGS KEEPER" type device.
Temporarily keep minimum power on vehicle 12v BUS for a short time while doing required battery or wiring maintenance.
DISCLAIMER: BATTERIES ARE VERY DANGEROUS, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.
1) Go to your locate auto parts store and ask for a "settings keeper", which is a cable type adapter which uses a standard 9
volt battery and
plugs into your ACTIVE 12v accessory port. (NOT THE SWITCHED ONE) . Active Plug/Port on Challenger is inside
the center console.
NOTE: Do not leave doors open (dome light load) and if the trunk Lid is going to be up for a long time, remove the
trunk light bulb temporarily while using settings keeper.
2) Disconnect battery (Always disconnect the NEGATIVE (BLACK) FIRST and then Positive post if changing battery
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out. Continue with any
change in wiring, battery or whatever work is required then on connecting up new battery, hook up Positive post and then
NEGATIVE LAST).
3) Reconnect ALL connections. Restore any removed trunk light bulb(s).
4) Remove/unplug "settings keeper" device.
You are done and will not have lost any settings in the computer (ECM/PCM), Radio, or other vehicle devices that are
wiped when vehicle battery
power is removed.
Some Vendor Links: Local Advance Auto or online at:
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=GK504&cat=GDT
http://www.starsurplus.com/viewitem.lasso?i=GK504
Tip:86
Dodge Challenger Instrument Cluster "Self Test" Procedure (LX/LC)
If an individual hardwired gauge or indicator is inoperative, refer to the diagnosis and testing service
information for that specific gauge or indicator. If an individual Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus
message-controlled gauge or indicator is inoperative, perform the Actuator Test as follows:
PERFORM ACTUATOR TEST
The instrument cluster actuator test puts the instrument cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In this mode the
instrument cluster can performs a self-diagnostic test that confirms that the instrument cluster circuitry, the gauges,
and the indicators are capable of operating as designed.
During the actuator test the instrument cluster circuitry will positions each of the gauge needles at various calibration
points and illuminates all of the segments in the Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) units.
Successful completion of the actuator test confirms the instrument cluster is operational.
However, there may still be a problem with the CAN data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Front
Control Module (FCM), the Transmission Control Module (TCM), the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC), the
Controller Anti-lock Brake (CAB), or the hardwired inputs to one of these electronic control modules.
Use a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose these components.
Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
2. Press and hold the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
3. While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button, turn the ignition switch to the
"ON" position, but DO NOT START the engine.
4. Now, release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
5. The Instrument Cluster simultaneously illuminates all of the operational segments in both VFD units, and
performs a bulb check of each operational LED indicator. The VFD segments and LED indicators remain
illuminated as each gauge needle sweeps to several calibration points and back. If a VFD segment or an
LED indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the calibration points and back
during this test, replace the instrument cluster.
6. The actuator test is now completed. The instrument cluster automatically exits the self-diagnostic mode
and returns to normal operation at the completion of the test. The actuator test aborts if the ignition switch
is turned to the OFF position, or if a vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received
from the PCM over the CAN data bus during the test.
7. Go back to Step #1 to repeat the test, if necessary.
Tip:87
MyGig Nav System Voice Tip
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Courtesy of Spin2Win. New trick I discovered the other day. Was trying to turn up the radio while the NAV system
was speaking.
Found that the radio did not get louder but she did. Did some experimenting.
When the NAV system is giving directions thru the speaker(s), if you adjust the volume it shows "NAV Volume" on
the radio display
and does not affect the radio volume. Selecting RPT will also give you additional time to adjust the voices.
Tip:88
Mopar Electrical Connectors and Repair Kits site
All of us at one time or another will have a need to repair an electrical connector, pins, wiring or replace the
connector on the harness due to some kind of damage.
It can be tough to identify the connector and ensure that the kit or part you want to order is in fact what you do
need. Here is a website that will help in locating
specific connectors on the Challenger frame and cross referencing the item to a MOPAR part for repair kit or
replacement. Your browser will need to specific
plug-ins to work properly here to view graphics.
You may need two plug-in’s for your internet browser called Whip and SVG. Click on the links below and download
the executable files to a location on
your PC. Once they are downloaded double click the install files and then restart your browser. Whip is for some of
the older model year graphics and
SVG is for the newer model year graphics.
http://dto.vftis.com/wired/whip4.exe
http://download.adobe.com/pub/adobe/magic/svgviewer/win/3.x/3.03/en/SVGView.exe
The site's FAQ link is good if you have never visited the site before and you can search on keywords like "sensor" and
"coolant" and "temperature" to find
specific types of connectors on the vehicle frame. For instance, I searched on "sensor" and got a list of sensor plugs
and found two important connectors that
have been easily damaged during "mod" sessions. Engine Coolant Temp and IAT (Intake Air Temp) Sensors.
Pictures shown below are for Challenger 5.7L Hemi engine.
I can order through MOPAR parts distributors a repair kit #05014003AA to replace this IAT connector. Likewise, I
can order #68064995AA to replace the
Engine Coolant Sensor plug as well. If you know anything about the nomenclature of the plug you are looking for,
you should be able to search and find it.
Proceed to this site below and enter Model Year and Type Frame.
http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/platform_select.asp?return=new
Tip:89
Dodge Challenger CAN BUS Databus Communications Modules
What is a CAN BUS?
Chrysler has started using a "Controller Area Network" (CAN) Bus for intercommunication between most every system in at least 6
vehicles or more vehicles:
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2004+
2005+
2005+
2006+
2008+
Dodge Dakota
Chrysler 300, Dodge Magnum, Dodge Charger ( All LX line vehicles )
Jeep Grand Cherokee
Dodge Ram Trucks
Dodge Challenger (All LC line vehicles)
There are 3 separate CAN buses in these vehicles.
-[CAN-C] Engine / Critical systems CAN Bus ( Engine, Transmission, Anti-Lock brakes, ESP, etc.. )
-[CAN-B] Interior Comfort CAN Bus ( Climate Control, Car Audio system, Dash cluster, EVIC, etc.. )
-[Diagnostic CAN-C] Diagnostic CAN Bus ( Has the capability of pulling service codes from the other two buses, but not directly
connected to either )
In 2006, over 70% of all automobiles sold in North America will utilize CAN Bus technology. Beginning in 2008, the
Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) requires 100% of the vehicles sold in the USA to use the CAN Bus
communication protocol while the European Union has similar laws. Several new aftermarket devices have been
introduced into the market that utilize the CAN Bus protocol but until now, there have been no new devices that
assist the aging after market remote starter and alarm system technology.
Now there is an aftermarket module that offers remote starter and alarm connectivity to the CAN Bus communication
protocol.
Here is a link to more information on Dodge Challenger CAN BUS operations below.
Challenger CAN BUS Operations (Bosch CAN Specification 2.0b)
Tip:90
The Official and Unofficial MyGIG Information Site's
Keep your MyGIG and NAV system updated with downloading, extracting and burning guide along with software
installation guides and more.
If you have the MYGIG/NAV system, you can download the updates here. You can get both the System software
updates as well as the song database updates.
Save a day at the dealership!
http://mofv.com/mygig/
and Dodge's official site on "How MyGig works";
http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/mygig/
Note the following quick tips and MyGig hardware and software accessories;
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MYGIG LOCKPICK
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
●●●●
A must for everyone that has a mygig.
The Lockpick does so many things like allowing you to watch DVD while driving, NAV in-outs, REV Camera, rear
views.
● DVD PLAY WHILE IN MOTION.
● SAT TV ON FRONT SCREEN WHILE IN MOTION (IN EQUIPPED VEHICLES).
● NAVIGATION ADDRESS INPUT WHILE IN MOTION (IN EQUIPPED VEHICLES).
● UNLOCK EVEN DEALER BLOCKED VIDEO - EVEN IF YOUR VIDEO BUTTON IS NEVER VISIBLE.
THE LOCKPICK WILL EXPOSE AND UNBLOCK IT.
● TURN ON BACKUP REVERSE CAMERA INPUT FOR AFTERMARKET INSTALLATIONS.
● TURN ON FACTORY REVERSE CAMERA AT ANY TIME, EVEN IN DRIVE IF DESIRED.
● TURN ON VES (REAR ENTERTAINMENT MODE) IN NON EQUIPPED VEHICLES - ENABLES
A VIDEO AND AUDIO INPUT FOR YOUR IPOD, IPHONE, COMPUTER, OR VIDEO GAME.
● AUX INS UNLOCKED IN VES EQUIPPED VEHICLES WHILE IN DRIVE.
● UCONNECT AND VOICE RECOGNITION ENABLED ON NAV RADIOS - JUST ADD A MICROPHONE.
AND YOU ARE READY TO GO SEE MICROPHONE OPTION HERE.
● NO SWITCHES TO ADD - USES FACTORY RADIO BUTTONS.
● NO LOSS OF NAVIGATION USE WHILE UNLOCKED - VOICE COMMANDS AND MAP TRACKING
UNAFFECTED - EVEN WHILE VIDEO IS VIEWED.
● ACC POWER OUTPUT PROVIDED FOR YOUR AFTERMARKET POWER NEEDS - TURNS OFF
WHEN YOUR CAR TURNS OFF.
● PROGRAMMABLE DIP SWITCHES TO ENABLE OR TURN OFF SPECIFIC FUNCTIONS.
● NO CUT WIRES - 15 MINUTE INSTALL WITH PLUG AND PLAY FACTORY CONNECTORS.
● GREAT FOR LEASED CARS!!
● WORKS WITH ALL MYGIG RADIOS - ADVANCED UNIVERSAL COMMUNICATIONS.
● Available at http://www.coastaletech.com
in the USA or http://www.dodge-downunder.com
in Australia, NZ
and Asia
NOTE: Also is NAVTOOL for those who want these options;
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MyGig NAVTOOL
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
LINK: http://www.navtool.com/challenger.aspx
My Gig Lockpick (Software) Programming for 99$.
OVERVIEW:
This programming service is for those who wish to have DVD movies and navigational control of the MyGIG receiver
while in-motion.
(Navigational control only applies to MyGIG navigation receivers) This service costs less than the physical Lockpick
harness and does
not require any installation by the user.
- Great cost effective way for you gain control over your MyGIG receiver while in-motion. FEATURES:
- Works with all high speed and low speed MyGIG receivers
- Automatically allows for DVD Play while in-motion
- Automatically allows for Sirius® Satellite TV on front screen while in motion! (if equipped)
- Automatically allows for navigation address input while in-motion (if equipped)
LINK: http://www.oemautopartsco.com/mygig-...ing-p-146.html
Quick Tips!
Quick Tip from Tat2dwiseguy on using USB port on MyGig Unit(s)
Tip - Discovered yesterday (out of desperation) that I could use my USB data cable to charge my BlackBerry from the
USB port in my RER MyGig unit!
Long story short, lost my car charger and ran my battery down (taking pics and video at the SRT Experience). Needed
the phone for the ride home and
figured I would try plugging the cable into the provided USB port on the radio/Nav unit. Sure enough, the charge
indicator lit up!
No need for expensive car chargers and extra cables! AND I can transfer images and music from the memory card on
the BlackBerry!
RER 730N media system Info
The original Media Center 730N (RER) was a CD/DVD/MP3/HDD radio with 6.5" touch screen, GPS Navigation, 30GB
hard drive, Sirius Satellite Radio, Sirius Traffic, Album Artwork, Hands Free Phone, Voice Command of Radio &
Navigation and iPod Control.
The Media Center 730N (RHR) has the features of the original (RER) with the addition of Sirius Travel Link, USB iPod
Control w/Voice Command, Bluetooth Streaming Audio and Hands Free Texting. The Media Center 730N (RHR) is
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tentatively scheduled to be available in the 2011 Dodge Challenger/Jeep Grand Cherokee models in January, 2011.
The Media Center 430N (RHB) is a CD/DVD/MP3/HDD radio with 6.5" touch screen, 30GB hard drive, Album Artwork
and Audio Jack, Garmin Navigation and Sirius Travel Link.
Navigation from Garmin is the name recognized by drivers everywhere as the dependable, must-have navigation tool.
The new radio features Garmin's intuitive user interface, and
brings the Garmin consumer experience to a factory in-dash radio.
My best suggestion, Joseph, would be for you to contact your preferred Dodge dealership in order to discuss the 2011
model and options that would best suit your needs. Your preferred dealership is the best resource for the most
up-to-date factory order information and availability.
links to the 730N RER 2.4 software update.
The Unofficial MyGIG Information Site Forum
A Web Site Devoted To All Things MyGIG
http://mofv.com/mygig/BBS/viewforum.php?f=9&sid=fd6325251e693db5ad4f6ee6167571d0
other related links below;
Media Center 730N (RER)
http://www.chrysler.com/en/owners/quality/rer/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYCWFiIfE6Y
http://www.mygigs.eu/features/mygig-media-center-730n-rer/
Related Tips!
See Also: Tip:57 Documents - Owner's Manuals, Dealer/Sales Documents, etc.
See Also: Tip:87 MyGig Nav Voice System Tip
See Also: Tip:130 Stuck CD in MyGig Multidisc player?
Tip:91
Battery Reconnection Procedure (reset DDM, PDM, & SCM's)
Note: This reconnecƟon procedure below may need to be performed anyƟme the vehicle baƩery has been disconnected.
DDM = Driver Door Module
PDM = Passenger Door Module
SCM = Steering Control Module
AUTO UP FRONT WINDOW
DDM and PDM
If the vehicle is equipped with the auto-up front window feature, once the battery is reconnected the door module
needs to be calibrated. The door module requires calibration anytime the battery or door module has been
disconnected for any length of time.
To calibrate, perform the following:
1. Turn the Ignition to the RUN position. Do not start Engine. Wait until all dings, beeps, etc, have stopped.
2. Regardless of current window position, move the driver side front window downward until the window stalls
in the full down position. Allow the window motor to stall for at least 2-4 seconds before releasing the switch.
Note: Monitor the Check Engine Light on the dash as it should start blinking.
3. Move the driver side front window upward until the window stalls in the full up position. Allow the window
motor to stall for at least 2-4 seconds before releasing the switch. Monitor the Check Engine Light should
stop blinking during this time.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the passenger side front window.
5. After about 3-4 seconds of completing driver and passenger side door control modules turn ignition key OFF.
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.
6. Verify the windows are properly calibrated by operating the express down and up features on the windows.
Express down is where you hit the unlock on the FOBIK once to unlock the doors and then hit the unlock
button again and HOLD it to allow the windows "express down" feature to work. Releasing the unlock button
anytime during the express down function will halt the windows going down.
7. Repeat this procedure if the calibration failed. If unable to properly calibrate after the second attempt, check
the Driver’s Door Module (DDM) and Passenger’s Door Module (PDM) for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)
and correct as required.
ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAM (ESP)
If the vehicle is equipped with ESP, once the battery is reconnected, the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) within the
Antilock Brake Module (ABM) needs to be calibrated.
The SAS requires calibration (initialization) using the scan tool anytime the battery or an ABS (ESP) component has
been disconnected for any length of time.
If the SAS is not calibrated following battery reconnection, the ESP/BAS indicator lamp will flash
continuously with no DTCs.
To calibrate (initialize), perform the following:
1. Position the front wheels straight ahead and center the steering wheel.
Look also at Challenger Tip# 40 for a step by step procedure here.
Tip:40 Centering the Steering Wheel: AKA: SAS calibration (steering Angle Sensor)
Tip:92
Challenger Spare Tire(s) and SRT Adaptor/Spacer
Standard Goodyear 18 in. convenience spare T145/80R18
There has been a lot of owner controversy and concern when discovering that their vehicle (2009) did not come with
a spare tire, but a small air pump and tire-fix foam. If the tire has any sidewall damage or severe tread damage, the
foam is useless and if you have TPMS sensors in your wheel, the Factory Owner's Manual strongly warns not to use
Fix-Foam as it will damage or destroy the expensive TPMS tire sensor! Now that did not go over well with me and
many other owners.
If you wanted what is known as a 'convenience spare' you had to have ordered that as an option and know about the
foam pump, and many owners just did not understand or know this at the time.
Having said this, you can however rectify the situation but with a little bit of work on your part. You can do one of
several things here. You can search your local or internet salvage yards for wrecks containing any late model LX
(Charger, 300c, Magnum) with 18 wheels and purchase a used spare, screw jack and lug wrench with hold down
hardware, or you can order this new through your dealerships parts counter (see below).
Now, when dealing with the parts counter, you are not going to be able to get a 18 in convenience spare assembly,
meaning WHEEL and TIRE, you will only be able to buy the spare tire steel wheel (4782465AA) and this runs about
$115.00 and they should be able to get it very quickly.
Other parts for Spare tire setup included below;
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Challenger Spare Tire Part Numbers
Dodge part numbers you will need to purchase to have a complete tire kit for 2009-10 Challenger with the 18"/20"
size wheels.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
4895015-AC
6504599
52059160-AC
4782465-AA
Y8180222-53
6508110-AA
4782999-AC
Scissor Jack
Nut
Retainer
Wheel, Spare rim
Tire, (T145/80D18)
Bolt
Jack Handle Wrench
Dodge dealer parts cost is about $ 408.37.
The number for the tire is for the T145/80D18 which comes with 2010 Challengers.
To use the 18 in. spare with SRT (clear Brembo brakes) you need to obtain the wheel-hub adapter that is described
above.
You can go to your local GOODYEAR Tire Dealer and order the convenience spare T145/80R18 as the dealer can
get this directly from the mfg warehouse via his ordering software. They do not stock these in stores. No one else
can supply this but Goodyear.
This is how I got mine and I got it mounted there as well. Now, be prepared for tire sticker shock as this sucker was
expensive! We're talking 2 bills here as you will pay shipping from warehouse and tax and mounting, etc. So in
total, I spent over 3 bills for just the spare tire assembly, but its new and not used.
If you want/need spare lug nuts, see this Challenger Tip: Tip:76 Challenger SRT and RT Wheel Lug Info.
Ok, there are a few other tidbits here.
You can also use a 17. in spare out of the late model Chargers and Magnums that have the T135/90R17. Why?
Because the bolt pattern is the same, the internal rim will fit over the rear R/T and SE brakes calipers and the tire
DIAMETER is almost identical to the T145/80R18.
There is approximately 1/2 inch difference in tire diameters. So the 17 in wheel/tire could be in fact used also as an
emergency spare. The only glitch here on the SE/RT is you can use this on the rear wheel as the slightly smaller rim
diameter will only clear the rear disc brake not the larger front one on R/T. So it would work in a pinch but not for all
corners on an R/T.
So if you wanted to use this convenience spare, you need to use it on the rear in emergencies and if you have a flat
on one of your front tires, you will have to install this size on the rear and use the rear good tire to replace the one
that is flat on the front. Yes, you will have to change two tires then.
If you have a R/T Auto, you may have to turn off the ESP as you may get a warning light as this 17in tire diameter is
a tad over the 5% speed differential allowance. R/T TrakPak with LSD (Lmitied Slip Differential) rear ends (Manual
transmissions) will probably have a problem using this particular tire size, so I would not recommend it. Go with the
T145/80R18's. Even then, if in question with the LSD, and you have a flat on a rear tire, simply install the
convenience spare on a front corner and use that tire on rear(s). You don't know how far you may have to drive to
get a tire fixed.
Here are the specifications/measurements;
T135/90R17
T145/80R18
674.8 mm or 26.56 in.
689.2 mm or 27.13 in.
Now for the SRT8 Folks!
You want a spare but you have them BIG Brembo brakes and the standard convenience spare is not going to fit
without hitting the calipers. So, you will have to use a wheel adaptor/spacer like in the picture below and you are in
business. This adaptor/space allows you to clear the brakes and mount the standard 18 inch
convenience spare tire. You do not want to carry a loose spare tire, full size or otherwise in the trunk as this will
come forward into the cabin area via the fold down back seat, if the vehicle has a sudden stop or front end impact.
Adaptor for use with convenience spare.
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USA Adaptor
Challenger SRT
- Wheel Adaptor 5x115 to 5x115 with 14mm studs
Call USA Adaptor at 1-317-856-1810 ( ask for Dustin )
ESP Feedback ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1970 Charger
Heeeeey Latenite1, good info. But tip #92 will cause the computer for the ESP to burn-out on the SRT due to not
having a 20" wheel. This will also put the car in a limp home mode and not let the car go over approximately 20 MPH.
Hi 1970 Charger;
I have different data that does not agree with your previous statement. Such as tire diameters. If the tire diameters
are kept
within 5% there is no real ESP issue, if there was a problem there you could turn OFF ESP, but with the proper size
spare you
should not have to. You will, however need to drive 50-55 mph, and this would present a problem for some.
Here is the published tire size diameters for the following;
Stock SRT8 - Goodyear 245/45ZR20 - tire diameter of 28.7 inch.
Convenience Spare(GY) T145/80R18 - tire diameter of 27.13 inch.
So the tire is at 5% of the same diameter. So if a SRT owner had a flat on the rear, and had a concern about his rear
end, he
could move a tire from the front to the back and then use the spare on the front and turn OFF ESP. Otherwise go
with a full size
spare and fabricate a solid trunk anchor mount and use up a lot of your trunk space. The emergency spare would be
just really
that, for use in an emergency to get you to a repair site.
You will also be required to drive at a very reduced speed anyway due to the mfg warning on use of convenience
spare tires.
Tip:93
Help on Sticking/Freezing Windows and Door Seals!
For those of you who live in cold climates or have had the experience of the automatic windows freezing up in the
wintertime know it's a headache and a problem.
It can throw the DDM/PDM control modules (the units that automatically drop the windows down and up when
opening/closing the doors) go out of calibration and no longer
work right.
There is a silicone based lubricant available at the dealership for this but there are some other aftermarket products
that work just as well, if not better!
If you have this problem, go to your local Advance Auto, AutoZone or PepBoys and look for Prestone De-Ice
products like these show below.
These products are ideal for windshield wipers, doors seals and sticking windows.
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The de-Icer Spray comes in spray bottles and a scraper-spray-can for ease of application while cleaning ice off of your
windows.
Depending on the climate and geographic location, you can apply several layers of de-Icer on the top sections and
seals of the driver and passenger windows eliminating the window sticking when opening and closing vehicle doors.
Here is a Z members feedback on the product on his Challenger!
[Posted by TJGS] I have really started to have trouble now that the temperatures have been in the 12-23 degrees F.
I was using silcone spray but even that stopped working. Tried something new and have had great success. It's made
by Prestone and comes in a spray bottle.
Spray it on the bottom inch of the glass, work the window up and down about 7-10 times moving it about 3-4 inches
when you do it. This will wet the fuzzy felt below the seal. Windows have been working great ever since.
ALSO;
For those who want to spend a little extra can go with Aquapel http://www.aquapel.com/
Causes rain to bead up and roll right off.
Makes it easier to clear ice, snow, and even dirt and bugs.
Reduces glare in the rain, especially at night.
Lasts for months in normal driving conditions
So you as a consumer have a number of ways to go with a spray/treatment to repel water and moisture and in cold
weather
freezing, resulting in ice.
Here is a link to a site on how to properly apply Aquapel to your windshield!
http://raysands.wordpress.com/2008/05/18/how-to-apply-aquapel-glass-treatment-to-your-windshield/
Tip:94
Challenger Replacement Light Bulbs
LIGHT BULBS - EXTERIOR
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Exterior
Bulb Number
Low beam headlight – high intensity discharge (hid)
Dual High/Low beam Halogen capsule headlamp
Front park/turn lamp
Front fog light
Front side marker
Tail light
Tail/stop/turn light
Rear side marker
Backup light
Center high mount stop light (CHMSL)
D1S
9008
3157
9145/H10
168
3057K
3057K
168
921
LED
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
License
168
LIGHT BULBS - INTERIOR
Interior
Bulb Number
Rear courtesy/reading lights
Rear compartment (trunk) light
Overhead console reading lights
Visor vanity lights
Glove box light
Door courtesy
Shift indicator light
Optional door map pocket / cup holder lighting
W5W
562
578
A6220
194
562
JKLE14140
LED
NOTE: All of the interior bulbs are glass wedge base or glass cartridge types.
Aluminum base bulbs are not approved and should not be used for replacement.
Tip:95
Remote Start Function Inhibitors!
The following list below are items that can prevent your REMOTE START from working on your Challenger.
This is where you press the REMOTE START push button and the car horn beeps once and the lights flash
on once, and nothing happens? Sometimes its intermittent and annoying, and other times it can be pin pointed
to a specific proximity switch or module communications problem. Here is a complete list of Remote Start
Inhibitor functions or codes!
1. Using the scan tool, select ECU VIEW.
2. Select the TIPM or FCM section.
3. Select MORE OPTIONS
4. Select SYSTEM TESTS
5. Select REMOTE START INHIBIT DATA.
The following table below is a Dodge listing of all possible causes for the inoperative Remote Start System.
If any of the following conditions exist, the Remote Start System will not work. Use this information as a guide to the diagnosis
of the Remote Start System.
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-
ABORT
BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH
BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
BRAKE PRESSED
COOLANT TEMPERATURE HIGH
CRANK NO START
DRIVER DOOR AJAR
PASSENGER DOOR AJAR
LEFT REAR DOOR AJAR
RIGHT REAR DOOR AJAR
TRUNK/LIFTGATE AJAR
HOOD AJAR
NO HOOD SWITCH (INOPERATIVE)
EXCESSIVE GLOW PLUG TIME (DIESEL ONLY)
FAILED COUNTER REACHED (START)
HAZARD LAMPS (SWITCH PRESSED)
IGNITION IN RUN/START
IGNITION NOT IN LOCK
IGNITION SNA (SIGNAL NOT AVAILABLE FROM OTHER MODULE)
INVALID KEY
KEY IN IGNITION
LOW RPM SHUTDOWN
MIL ON
NO AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
NORMAL TIME OUT CUSTOMER ACCESS
NORMAL TIME OUT RUN MODE (15 MINUTES)
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NOT CONFIGURED
NOT ENABLED
NOT IN PARK OR NEUTRAL
NOT PROGRAMMED
OIL PRESSURE LOW
PANIC MODE (ACTIVATED)
POWER LOSS
RKE OFF MESSAGE
RPM TOO HIGH (EXCEEDS 2500)
START COUNTER REACHED
VEHICLE SPEED HIGH
VTA ALARMING
If all of the previous items checked OK, and the remote starting system will not operate, refer to the REMOTE START POOR
PERFORMANCE diagnostic procedure.
There may be possible antenna related issues.
Tip:96 What does the term FOB, KEYFOB or FOBIK mean?
Q: Out of curiosity... I've always wondered what FOB or FOBIK stands for?
A: KEY FOB is usually a decorative or "trick item" stuck on a key ring.
With the advent of automotive electronics, the key fob term took on the meaning of the RKE device.
(RKE) Remote Keyless Entry device, you know, the little thingy that you hit to unlock the car door or
open up the trunk.
Now a FOBIK means a FOB or RKE device with an (I)ntegrated (K)ey".
The integrated key will allow someone to lock valuables in the glove box and turn the RKE into a valet key so a
parking attendant can park the car and you can keep your loaded .45 Semi-Auto in the glove box safely locked
away.
Here is a link with lots of historical info on FOB's....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Key_fob
Tip:97 VIN PLATE DECODER
VIN PLATE DECODING INFORMATION
1 = Country
2 = Make
3 = Vehicle Type
4 = Other
5 = Line
6 = Series
7 = Body Style
8 = Engine
9 = Check Digit
10= Model Year
11= Assy Plant.
12 -17 = Plant Sequence No.
The following table interprets the VIN Plate position shown above.
Digit / Position Interpretation Codes = Description
1 Country of Origin;
1 = Manufactured By Chrysler LLC
2 = Manufactured By Chrysler LLC, Canada
2 Assembler;
D = Dodge
B = Brampton Assembly Plant, Canada
3 Vehicle Type;
3 = Passenger Car
4 GVWR & Pass. Safety;
H = Restraint System Advanced Multistage Front Air Bags Sales Code (CG3)
J = Restraint System Advanced Multistage Front Air Bags Sales Code (CG3)
K = Without Side Air Bags Sales Code (CGS)
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L = With Side Air Bags Sales Code (CGS)
5 Vehicle Line;
J = Challenger (RWD) (LHD) U.S., Canada, Mexico
6 Series;
4 = Challenger SE, D-X-22 U.S., Canada, Mexico
5 = Challenger RT, D-X-22 U.S., Canada, Mexico
7 = Challenger SRT8, D-X-22 U.S., Canada, Mexico
7 Body Style;
4 = 2DR Pillared Hardtop Body Style - 22
8 Engine;
W = 6.1L 8 CYL Gasoline Non � Turbo (ESF),
T = 5.7L 8 CYL Gasoline,
V = 3.5 L 6 CYL Gasoline
9 Check Digit ;
0 = Check Digit (range is 0-9, or X)
(See note below on consumer fraud/theft information.)
10 Model Year;
8 = 2008 Model Year
9 = 2009 Model Year
A = 2010 Model Year
11 Assembly Plant
H = Brampton Assembly
12 thru 17 = Vehicle Build Sequence, or Model Year Assembly Sequence number
To find the manufacture date your of vehicle (Challenger), open the driver's side door
and on the right of the pillar or end of the door there should be a door sticker.
.
The MDH # on the bottom row of your door sticker stands for Month/Day/Hour
of manufacture.
Check Digit information:
To protect the consumer from theft and possible fraud the manufacturer is required to include a Check Digit at the ninth position
of the Vehicle Identification Number. The check digit is used by the manufacturer and government agencies to verify the authenticity
of the vehicle and official documentation. The formula to use the check digit is not released to the general public.
Tip:98 Cooling Flow - 5.7L/6.1L HEMI Engines
COOLING FLOW - 5.7L/6.1L HEMI ENGINE
COOLING FLOW - 5.7L/6.1L ENGINE
1 - HOT BOTTLE/COOLANT RECOVERY BOTTLE
2 - HEATER CORE
3 - CYLINDER HEAD
4 - CYLINDER BLOCK
5 - WATER PUMP
6 - THERMOSTAT
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7 - RADIATOR
The cooling system is pressurized and uses a centrifugal water pump to circulate coolant throughout the system.
The cooling system also provides a means of heating the passenger compartment and cooling the NAG1 automatic
transmission fluid (if equipped).
SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION
SPECIFICATION
Metric
Standard
3.5 L
10.8 Liters
11.4 Quarts
5.7 L
13.9 Liters
14.7 Quarts
6.1 L
14.4 Liters
15.2 Quarts
COMPONENTS
The cooling system consists of the following components :
Radiator
Electric Cooling fan
Fan shroud
Radiator pressure cap
Thermostat
Coolant recovery container
Transmission oil cooler (if equipped with an automatic transmission)
Coolant
Water pump
Hoses and hose clamps
ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANT
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads and water pumps requires special corrosion protection. Only Mopar®
Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with corrosion inhibitors called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic Additive
Technology) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain
to obtain a freeze point of -37°C (-35°F). If it loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed
coolant solution.
CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are claimed to improve engine cooling.
THERMOSTAT
Description:
The engine cooling thermostats are a wax pellet driven, reverse poppet choke type. The thermostats have an air
bleed located in the thermostat flange. The air bleed allows internal trapped air during cooling system filling to be
released. The thermostat on the 2.7L and 3.5L engines are located on the lower left side of engine, near the front.
The thermostat on both engines are on the inlet side of the water pump.
The thermostat on the 5.7L/6.1L engine is located beneath the thermostat housing (1) at the front of the intake
manifold.
A rubber seal is used to seal the thermostat housing to the intake manifold.
The thermostat contains the following components:
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1 - Vent Valve. Vents the cooling system via a ball valve (jiggle pin) when it is filled and when the engine is
running.
2 - Bypass Valve. Controls coolant flow through the bypass passage to the inlet side of the water pump
3 - Thermostat Housing Seal.
4 - Main Valve. Controls coolant flow through the radiator.
OPERATION
WARM-UP PHASE
Up to a coolant temperature of approximately 87° C (189° F), the main valve is closed and the bypass valve fully open.
The flow through the radiator is interrupted and coolant flows through the bypass passage directly to the inlet side of the water pump.
PARTIAL-LOAD PHASE
The main valve begins to open at a coolant temperature of 86° C (189° F), and a small amount of coolant flows through the radiator.
As the engine temperature increases, the main valve opens further and the bypass valve gradually closes. More coolant flows through
the radiator and less coolant flows through the bypass passage.
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FULL-LOAD PHASE
The main valve is fully open at a coolant temperature above 102° C (216° F). The bypass plate seals off the bypass passage.
The entire quantity of coolant flows through the radiator.
Please note these very important related tips!
Tip:47
HOAT Engine Coolant!
For additional information on Challenger Fill Spec's, Torque, Special Tools and Pictorials
on drain, flush and fill procedures, CLICK HERE.
Tip:99 NAGI Automatic Transmission, Description Detail
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NAG1 Automatic Transmission
1 - TORQUE CONVERTER
11 - PARKING LOCK GEAR
2 - OIL PUMP
12 - INTERMEDIATE SHAFT
3 - DRIVESHAFT
13 - FREEWHEEL F2
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4 - MULTI-DISC HOLDING CLUTCH B1
14 - REAR PLANETARY GEAR SET
5 - DRIVING CLUTCH K1
15 - CENTER PLANETARY GEAR SET
16 - ELECTROHYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT
17 - FRONT PLANETARY GEAR SET
18 - FREEWHEEL F1
19 - STATOR SHAFT
10 - OUTPUT SHAFT
20 - TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP CLUTCH
The NAG1 automatic transmission is an electronically controlled 5-speed transmission with a lock-up clutch in the torque converter.
The ratios for the gear stages are obtained by 3 planetary gear sets. Fifth gear is designed as an overdrive with a high-speed ratio.
NAG1 identifies a family of transmissions and means “N”ew “A”utomatic “G”earbox, generation 1. Various marketing names are
associated with the NAG1 family of transmissions, depending on the transmission variation being used in a specific vehicle.
Some examples of the marketing names are: W5A300, W5A380, and W5A580. The marketing name can be interpreted as follows:
W = A transmission using a hydraulic torque converter.
5 = 5 forward gears.
A = Automatic Transmission.
580 = Maximum input torque capacity in Newton meters.
The gears are actuated electronically/hydraulically. The gears are shifted by means of an appropriate combination of three multi-disc
holding clutches, three multi-disc driving clutches, and two freewheeling clutches.
Electronic transmission control enables precise adaptation of pressures to the respective operating conditions and to the engine output
during the shift phase which results in a significant improvement in shift quality.
Furthermore, it offers the advantage of a flexible adaptation to various vehicle and engines.
Basically, the automatic transmission with electronic control offers the following advantages:
Reduces fuel consumption.
Improved shift comfort.
More favorable step-up through the five gears.
Increased service life and reliability.
Lower maintenance costs.
TRANSMISSION IDENTIFICATION
The transmission can be generically identified visually by the presence of a round 13-way connector located near the front corner
of the transmission oil pan, on the right side. Specific transmission information can be found stamped into a pad on the left side
of the transmission, above the oil pan rail.
TRANSMISSION GEAR RATIOS
The gear ratios for the NAG1 automatic transmission are as follows:
1st Gear-3.59:1
2nd Gear-2.19:1
3rd Gear-1.41:1
4th Gear-1.00:1
5th Gear-0.83:1
Reverse-3.16:1
TRANSMISSION HOUSING
The converter housing and transmission are made from a light alloy. These are bolted together and centered via the outer multi-disc
carrier of multi-disc holding clutch, B1. A coated intermediate plate provides the sealing. The oil pump and the outer multi-disc carrier
of the multi-disc holding clutch, B1, are bolted to the converter housing. The stator shaft is pressed into it and prevented from
rotating by splines. The electro-hydraulic unit is bolted to the transmission housing from underneath. A sheet metal steel oil pan forms
the closure.
MECHANICAL SECTION
The mechanical section consists of a input shaft, output shaft, a sun gear shaft, and three planetary gear sets which are coupled to
each other. The planetary gear sets each have four planetary pinion gears. The oil pressure for the torque converter lock-up clutch
and clutch K2 is supplied through bores in the input shaft. The oil pressure to clutch K3 is transmitted through the output shaft. The
lubricating oil is distributed through additional bores in both shafts. All the bearing points of the gear sets, as well as the freewheeling
clutches and actuators, are supplied with lubricating oil. The parking lock gear is connected to the output shaft via splines.
Freewheeling clutches F1 and F2 are used to optimize the shifts. The front freewheel, F1, is supported on the extension of the stator
shaft on the transmission side and, in the locking direction, connects the sun gear of the front planetary gear set to the transmission
housing. In the locking direction, the rear freewheeling clutch, F2, connects the sun gear of the center planetary gear set to the sun
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gear of the rear planetary gear set.
ELECTRO-HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT
The electro-hydraulic control unit comprises the shift plate made from light alloy for the hydraulic control and an electrical control unit.
The electrical control unit comprises of a supporting body made of plastic, into which the electrical components are assembled. The
supporting body is mounted on the shift plate and screwed to it.
Strip conductors inserted into the supporting body make the connection between the electrical components and a plug connector. The
connection to the wiring harness on the vehicle and the transmission control module (TCM) is produced via this 13-pin plug connector
with a bayonet lock.
SHIFT GROUPS
The hydraulic control components (including actuators) which are responsible for the pressure distribution before, during, and after a
gear change are described as a shift group. Each shift group contains a command valve, a holding pressure shift valve, a shift pressure
shift valve, overlap regulating valve, and a solenoid.
The hydraulic system contains three shift groups: 1-2/4-5, 2-3, and 3-4. Each shift group can also be described as being in one of two
possible states. The active shift group is described as being in the shift phase when it is actively engaging/disengaging a clutch
combination. The 1-2/4-5 shift group control the B1 and K1 clutches. The 2-3 shift group controls the K2 and K3 clutches.
The 3-4 shift group controls the K3 and B2 clutches.
TRANSMISSION COOLING
All NAG1 Automatic (on Dodge Challengers) have a transmission cooler from the factory.
There are a pair of aluminum lines from the transmission up to the front of the radiator.
Where an auxiliary cooler is mounted to the front of the radiator assy.
This cooler unit serves two or three functions depending on the following conditions;
1. automatic transmission cooler
2. air conditioning condenser
3. 2009 and later vehicles the power steering cooler is also integrated in this unit.
The factory transmission cooler should be considered minimum equipment level.
If you are running a high stall torque converter, you will want additional cooling
over the factory level.
NOTE:
See also link: Tip:109 The TCM - Transmission Control Module (Detail)
Tip:100
BMC BILLET CATCH-CAN DRAIN COCK MODIFICATION
Tired of bashed knuckles and sprained wrists??
BMC BILLET CATCH-CAN DRAIN COCK MODIFICATION
For those who have purchased the BMC Satin or Polished Billet Catch-Can for their HEMI Challengers are happy with
them I’m sure.
The addition of Moroso’s unit as well as others now available, shows there are more options to choose from when now
ordering a particular style or unit.
Tip:101
Brake Repair on Challenger/Charger!
Tech Topics covered in the article are;
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Calipers
Brake Packages
Inspection
Installing New Pads and Rotors
Base System Bleeding
ABS Bleeding
Parking Brake Adjustment
Initial Adjustment
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Final Adjustment
Here is a link to a this article with torque spec's on doing your own brake repairs on a Challenger or
Charger (LC/LX frame)
http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Article/61086/Brake_Job_.aspx
Tip:102
2009 Dodge Challenger Final Sales Figures
2009 Dodge Challenger sales figures by color, model, and transmission
SE is LCDH22, R/T is LCDP22, SRT8 is LCDX22. Some of these colors (e.g. B5 Blue) were not generally available or were
only available
for part of the year. Hemi Orange and B5 Blue were not available (understandably) on Challenger SE. The four-speed
automatic was dropped
for the 2010 model year. Many thanks to Mike V. for providing this information.
2009 Challengers
4-Speed
5-Speed Automatic
6-Speed Manual
Color
SE
SE R/T SRT8 Total
R/T SRT8 Total
Deep Water Blue
951
Dark Titanium
670
3
Hemi Orange
898
901
450
450
2,302
497
497
208
208
1,375
1,821 1,507 3,328
B5 Blue
Total
1,123 1,217 2,340
5,668
279
83
362
244
153
397
759
1,170
784
1,954
586
637
1,223
4,334
766
330
330
2,089
1,429
297
648
3,094
858
463
463
2,103
TorRed
1157
Inferno Red
993
2
764
Bright Silver
1017
1
808
Stone White
782
1
857
Brilliant Black
2452
2 2,602 1,726 4,330
1,486 1,508 2,994
9,556
8022
9 9,696 4,720 14,425
5,187 3,866 9,053
31,500
620
351
Total by Model:
Challenger S/E; 8,031
Challenger R/T; 14,883
Challenger SRT; 8,586
Total; 31,500
Tip:103
Washing and Draining Water from Door Mirrors.
When you wash your Challenger you can rotate the mirror housings downward to let the water drain out.
This will prevent a slug of water coming out of the mirror housings when you go to drive your car after drying it off
after a wash
and streaking up the sides of the vehicle.
Tip:104
Dodge Challenger Parts Manuals 2008 - 2011
Below here are links to the 2008-2011 Dodge Challenger Parts breakdown OEM manuals.
Note, there will be many common parts across the LC platform between the basic models and this may help if you are
looking to see parts and parts breakdowns.
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There are some trim differences between models but there are many frame and body parts that are going to be the
same across model years.
You will note that the factory FRAME designation for Dodge Challenger is [LC], where as Dodge Charger frame
designation is [LX].
2008 LC Parts
2009 LC Parts
2010 LC Parts
2011 LC Parts
NOTE: Related tip -> Tip:189 Dodge Challenger Body Repair Manual
Tip:105
Dodge Challenger Accessories – Genuine MOPAR Catalog
Here are just a small sample of what’s in the Accessory Catalog
Category/Accessory Contents
Audio/Video & Electronics, Amplifiers, Speakers & Subwoofers, Audio Accessories, iPod interface, iPod integration
Backup/Driving Assistance, Park Distance Sensors
Cellular Accessories, Hands Free Bluetooth Car Kit, u-connect phone
Cargo Area Mat, Carpeted
Covers, Full Car
Door Sill Guards
Fuel Filler Door
Hood, Hood Scoop
Locks, Wheel Locks
Navigation Systems, Additional Geographic Map Data and Accessories
Pedal Kit
Remote Start
Radio Systems
Roadside Safety Kits
Shift Knob, T-Handle’s
Seat Covers, Katzkin Leather
Splash Guards
Spoilers, Rear Spoiler
Wheels, OEM - 17, 18, 20in.
http://www.mopar.ca/en/accessories/catalogues_2009/dodge/Challenger%20Quick%20Reference.pdf
Custom fitted DASH covers from CoverKing:
http://ptboutique.com/items/coverking/dodge-challenger
/dodge_challenger_coverking_custom_tailored_velour_dash_cover
Tip:106
HomeLink Wireless Control System – 3 Button overhead unit in late model Dodge Challengers
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is HomeLink® Wireless Control System?
A: HomeLink is an integrated transceiver (a transmitter and receiver) that can be programmed to activate radio
frequency (RF) devices such as garage doors, estate/community gates, entry door locks, home/office lighting, or
other RF devices.
HomeLink is compatible with radio-frequency devices operating between 288 and 399 MHz (exclusive of the
restricted 322-335 MHz range). Select 2007 and newer vehicles are compatible up to 433 MHz (exclusive of
the restricted 400-410 MHz range). Please contact us by email or phone (1-800-355-3515) to verify vehicle
compatibility.
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You can get up to date information and answers to basic questions like;
How does HomeLink work?
How can I get HomeLink?
I can't program my HomeLink.
Range troubleshooting tips:
What other capabilities does HomeLink have besides operating garage doors?
Where can I purchase HomeLink compatible products?
How do I program a pre-1982 garage door opener?
My garage door opener doesn’t have a hand-held transmitter. Will HomeLink still work?
How does HomeLink work with KEELOQ®-based rolling code garage door openers?
http://www.homelink.com/home/faqs.taf
Go to this site for additional information on programming "rolling code" gate openers and other supported RF devices.
Also, here is a video describing HOMELINK operations from the Dodge Channel.
Tip:200 Dodge Channels 2011 Dodge Challenger Homelink System Documentary
Tip:107
FOBIK (Key Fob) Repair and erratic operations
Some Challenger owners have complained about their key fobs mysteriously unlocking their trunks or rolling down
their windows.
A possible fix is described is described below:
The FOBIK has a rubber mat with the button graphics on it.
If you open your FOBIK, the bottom side of the rubber mat has metal discs called "Snap Domes". The snap domes are
what give
each button that snap feel when you press it. Each of these snap domes are made of stainless steel, coated in a black
carbon paint
to give them extra conductivity.
When you press the button, the snap dome completes the circuit for that button and the FOBIK transmits.
An issue here is that sometimes a small piece of the carbon coating can break away from the stainless steel and get
trapped under
the snap dome. Even a very, very small piece of this is enough to create this problem.
Because the carbon material is very conductive, and it is trapped beneath the snap dome, it can complete the circuit
very easily and
make the FOBIK transmit.
Depending on which button this happens to, this can create a variety of issues. If this phenomenon occurs beneath
most buttons, the
outcome is very predictable but is most annoying when it happens beneath the Unlock button. That can randomly
unlock the car, but
also can make your windows roll down. Not good if it's raining out.
The fix is very simple. Just open up the FOBIK, and use a Q-tip and a small amount of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol
carefully wipe both
the PCB where the snap domes make contact and the underside of the snap domes. Dry/wipe off any excess.
Remove any and all loose black residue.
Once gone, this intermittent or erratic problem should go away as well.
Button Protection?
For those of you who have to carry your FOBIK in your pocket and bend over a lot or move around a lot to where the
keys push on
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the buttons, you can use two wraps of Scotch #88 electrical tape around the center of the FOBIK to give your trunk
key a bit more
protection from inadvertent presses. The extra layers of electrical tape will prevent keys on the key ring from easily
pressing the
buttons on the FOBIK but yet if you need to press them, you will only need to exert a little more force in pressing
them to active the
function.
SEE ALSO: Tip:49 Key FOB? Battery replacement? Dead FOBIK?
Tip:108
The PCM - PowerTrain Control Module
This is the same thing as the ECM in many other vehicles and it controls the HEMI engine and fuel system for
emissions compliance.
The link below provides a detailed description of PCM modes of operations, inputs, outputs and critical components in
the engine system.
NGC Engine Management Technology
Dodge terminology has changed a bit in identify a new "generation" of PCM that is in the modern Challenger. It is
referred to as an NGC instead of a PCM.
NGC is an acronym for Next Generation Controller.
Ok, so what is the big deal. Well like prior technology used in PCM's, the PCM can tell if say a sensor is open (no
there) or shorted. It can throw a MIL or CEL on the dash to indicate trouble. With the new type NGC units, they can
do to another level and see if the signal coming in from a sensor is "bad". They call it where they will "rationalize"
the value, compare it to other values being looked at and throw a code based on the information coming in from a
sensor is "wrong" or out of spec for the particular range or value(s).
It is important for the Dodge Challenger owner to have some basic understanding of what functions this important
module does and how it interacts with the engine performance and the TCM (Transmission Control Module) and
automatic transmission operations. They do have an intimate relationship.
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/PCM-Main%20operations.htm
Tip:109
The TCM - Transmission Control Module
The NAG1 Transmission Control Module (TCM) controls most all of the fundamental operations of the transmission.
The controller monitors speed, gears, torque, temperature and a host of other operations to keep the power coming
from the engine going out to the rear drive wheels in the best "power management" situations.
The link below provides important specific location and operational information about the NAG1's TCM (Transmission
Control Modlule):
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/TCM-NAG1.htm
These links below also provide useful and/or additional information specific to NAG1 Adaptation and TCM "Limp
modes";
Tip:121 Transmission Control Module (TCM) - Limp Mode(s)
Tip:124 TCM Adaptation - NAG1 Only
Tip:110
The T-Handle Shifter Upgrade for Challenger (Auto)
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Dodge P/N# DCP-82211622
In looking at making changes to my Challenger R/T Automatic, I saw that I wanted the "T" handle shifter to go along with
my brush SS door
sills, dash and door panel kits. I think it looks far superior to the leather covered stick knob that came on the car. Several
vendors carry this as
well as your Dodge Parts counter now, and the installation is quite simple.
The newest part to be released from Dodge is the New Challenger T-Handle Shifter Knob
Dodge Part number DCP-82211622.
For step by step instructions on how to install the T-Handle shifter you can go to this link below;
http://www.mylrs.com/blogs/lrs/archive/2008/09/03/t-handle-upgrade-for-your-challenger.aspx
For those wanting a custom Billet T-handle, Billet Tech has a nice one as well. Here is a link to their product page;
http://www.custombilletstore.com/product_p/1030.htm
Tip:111
Push Button Start Overlay Trim
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This vendor provides a variety of different start button overlays and can do custom work if you have a special logo
you want to put on your "Start Button"!
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
http://challengerstuff.com/
and
Nate's Custom Start Button Overlays
Here is his website. Welcome To ReBadge Design! Your source for custom vehicle badges and more!
Tip:112
Electro Chromatic Mirror disable on Reverse feature
On 2009 Dodge Challenger with Electro chromatic Mirror option (2J Electronics Pkg) there is the disable feature for
the (R)everse
gear to disable the "dimming" feature. So it is not really a brightening of the mirror but actually a disable of the
dimming "if" the
dimming feature is enabled or turned on.
For those technical, the modern Electro chromatic Mirrors on many models of Chevy, Ford, Dodge, and some imports
use this disable
feature. On Dodge Challenger the disable control signal originates from the TIPM on the Backup Lamp Control Output
circuit.
Q: I couldn't find a proper place for this question, or could I find this info in my owner's manual. On my rearview
mirror, there is a
green light that comes on when I crank the car, what is this light. There is a switch, beside the light, that will turn
it off.
A: It is the “Auto Dim” on/off switch. Green light on means "auto dim" is enabled.
2009 Owner's Manual – Automatic Dimming Mirror pg. 75
2010 Owner's Manual – Automatic Dimming Mirror pg. 77
Tip:113
Tire Tech Information - Reading and Calculating Tire Sizes/Dimensions
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Translate the gibberish on your tire!
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
The typical tire size is expressed something like this:
P245/45R17 93H M+S.
Those numbers and letters can seem like Greek, so let's define them one at a time below.
P: The first letter stands for tire's intended use. P is the most common and it means Passenger. LT stands for
Light Truck. An LT tire has a sturdier construction than a P tire, and it can carry a greater load, which we will talk
about later.
245: Width of the tire, from sidewall to sidewall, in millimeters. A 245 is 245 millimeters, or 24.5 centimeters,
wide. The tread width is actually somewhat smaller than the tire's actual width.
45: Aspect Ratio. This is the sidewall's height from the inside diameter to the outside diameter. It is expressed as a
percentage of the width. A 245/45 is 45 percent as tall as it is wide, making it approximately 110.25 millimeters tall.
As aspect ratios decrease, the tire's firmness increases. Smaller aspect ratios, such as 35 or 40 are generally
reserved for performance tires on sports cars.
R: Tire's type of construction. R stands for Radial, and all new cars and light trucks today use radials. You may
also see B in this spot for Bias Ply. Bias ply tires were used prior to the mid 1970s.
17: Tire's inner diameter, which matches the outer diameter of your car's wheels.
93: Load Rating. Load ratings range from 0 to 279 and each has a corresponding weight associated with it. A 93
load rating means that tire is certified to carry up to 1433 pounds at maximum inflation pressure. If a car weighs
4000 pounds, then each tire handles 1000 pounds with no passengers or cargo aboard. If you intend to tow a heavy
boat or trailer, you should buy tires with a higher load rating. This will require some math to figure out the vehicle
weight, the trailer weight, and the weight of a load you may carry inside the vehicle while towing. Add it all up, divide
by four, and make sure your replacement tires have a corresponding load rating.
H: Speed Rating. All passenger tires have a speed rating expressed as a letter. Those letters and corresponding
speeds the tires are rated for are in this chart:
S: 112 mph
T: 118 mph
U: 124 mph
H: 130 mph
V: 149 mph
W: 168 mph
Y: 186 mph
Z: over 186 mph
A Speed Rating is really an indication of a tire's ability to dissipate heat to avoid a blowout. Higher speeds mean
greater heat buildup.
Tires with higher speed ratings are constructed to handle heat better. In general, they also ride harder than tires with
lower speed ratings. S-, T-, and U-rated tires are considered regular passenger-car tires. H- and V-ratings are
reserved for touring tires, which are generally found on sport sedans. The Z rating is for performance tires found on
high performance sports cars.
M+S: Mud and Snow. This is an all-season tire. A summer performance tire would have no designation here.
Most modern passenger car and light truck tires feature size designations that indicate the tire's dimensions in a
combination of metric, mathematical and English systems. While this unusual combination of millimeters, percentages
and inches is a byproduct of the evolution of global tire specifications, it also provides the ability to calculate/estimate
basic tire dimensions.
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More information can be seen at:
Calculating Tire Dimensions
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=7&
Tip:114
Personalize U-connect
You can change the name of your device (phone) on U-Connect so that when you press the button instead of the
voice saying "Blackberry 8530 is now connected" it can say "Challenger is now connected"
Steps are:
Go into menu
Systems set up
Phone pairing
Select your phone (tap on it)
Re-name device
Backspace to erase current name
Enter new name (ex: Challenger)
NOTE: You can only input up to 15 characters including spaces (no phrases)
When I hit the U-Connect button and the car says "Challenger is now connected", and passengers are now impressed.
Tip:115
Rear Fold-down center arm rest removal
You will require a Torx bit T-40 to remove the one bolt and then it just comes off.
You will need to pull down the rear seat (behind front passenger side) and then you'll see the one bolt.
Tip:116
R/T and SRT front chin spoiler replacement
Many R/T owners are interested and are looking at replacing their front chin spoilers with the one from the SRT8.
This one has a pair of inlet scoops on the front to all air to enter and be directed by channels on the belly pan toward
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the front brake rotor's for additional cooling.
If you are going to do this, you will need to "re-drill" the mounting holes in the SRT one to fit the mounting points on
the R/T. Looking at the picture below will show the differences.
When you remove the R/T spoiler use it as a pattern to locate and mark the holes needed in the SRT spoiler to be
drilled for mounting. Note the channels in the front belly pan for directed air as these will then line up with the front
opening in the SRT spoiler.
R/T Spoiler Version: #68051388AA
SRT Challenger Chin Spoiler: # 68043390AA (does not include fender flares)
SRT Challenger Belly Pan :
# 05030943AA (Air ducts) 2008-2010
If you want to install the NEW model 2011 Challenger spoiler on your R/T, etc., here is the info;
2011 IE 392 Challenger Spoiler # 68109837AA List $80.10 ea
Side's filler Part #68109838AA and # 8109839AA List $ 9.85ea
Note: Have replacement "pop-pins" as you will have to cut out several in the forward front fender wells and you may
have a problem with one or two of the 5/16" (larger) ones on the belly pan if they don't want to release well. Also
the lower front wheel well trim will have to be released and the stock Dodge plastic "rivets" will have to be cut as
they are not reusable. The reusable ones you can get replacements at your local AutoZone or Advance Auto stores.
You can get a plastic rivet kit (pop pins) from Harbor Freight Tools (Item #97757) Hand Riveter with 40 POM Rivets
where the sizes you need to replace and wheel well ones are there in that kit.
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P/N 97757
I used a cardboard template and taped it to the old (R/T) spoiler to mark the holes and move the template to the SRT
one and drilled/slotted the holes as they were on the R/T unit.
Note:
For a good vendor and comprehensive list for pop-pins, plastic rivets and clips used on the Dodge Challenger see;
Tip:127 Push/Pop Pins, Plastic Rivets and Clip Replacements!
See also Speedy' Garage Spoiler installation link below;
http://speedysgarage.net/challengerweb/challenger_mods/challenger_srt8_chin_spoiler_and_belly_pan
/challenger_srt_chin_spoiler_and_belly_pan.htm
Tip:117
KeylessGo and Keeloq Encryption/Cipher
Remote Keyless Entry System Security
Related modules are WIN (Wireless Ignition Module) and PEM (Passive Entry Module). Both of these modules are
used in the
keyless go system and use Keeloq block cipher.
KeeLoq is a proprietary hardware-dedicated NLFSR-based block cipher. The uni-directional command transfer
protocol was designed
by Frederick Bruwer PhD, CEO at Nanoteq (Pty) Ltd and the cryptographic algorithm was created by Professor Gideon
Kuhn with the
silicon implementation by Willem Smit, PhD at Nanoteq Pty Ltd (South Africa) in the mid 80's and sold to Microchip
Technology Inc in
1995 for $10 million. It's used in "code hopping" encoders and decoders such as NTQ105/106/115/125D/129D and
HCS101/2XX/3XX/4XX/5XX.
KeeLoq is used in the majority of remote keyless entry systems by such companies as Chrysler, Daewoo, Fiat, GM,
Honda, Toyota, Volvo, Volkswagen Group, Clifford, Shurlok, Jaguar, etc.
More reference material on Keeloq is available online as well as on Wikipedia; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KeeLoq
How hard is it to steal a Challenger with Keeloq block cipher?
KeeLoq is a cipher used in several car anti-theft mechanisms distributed by Microchip Technology Inc. It may protect
your car if you own a Chrysler, Daewoo, Fiat, General Motors, Honda, Toyota, Volvo, Volkswagen, or Jaguar. The
cipher is included in the remote control device that opens and locks your car and that activates the anti-theft
mechanisms.
Each device has a unique key that takes 18 billion billion values. With 100 personal computers, it would
take several decades to find such a key.
Therefore KeeLoq was widely believed to be secure. In our research we have found a method to identify the key in
less than a day.
The attack requires access for about 1 hour to the remote control (for example, while it is stored in your pocket).
Once we have
found the key, we can deactivate the alarm and drive away with your car.
This research is the joint work between 3 research groups: the computer science department of the Technion, Israel,
the research
group COSIC of the Katholieke Universiteit Leuven, Belgium, and the math department of the Hebrew University,
Israel.
Note: The way the researchers were able to break the cipher in less than a day (typically about 4-5 hours), and if you are
extremely lucky, in about
an hour but that is with multiple computers and very sophisticated custom written software. Note the required sophisticated
radio hardware and software
as well, in addition to the custom hacking code.
Note: That they are not "attacking" the vehicle, they are attacking the FOBIK remote! You have to be within 30 ft and be
pretty close to the
FOBIK when attacking it. What you are looking for is the special 4 digit PIN key to derive the unique master key code.
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If you are afraid that some highly intelligent, very computer savvy person is going to steal your Challenger by doing this,
lock or secure the FOBIK
when it is not in use (within the vehicle) in a metal box or wrapped in Alum. foil to prevent access via radio frequency
(433mhz).
Thieves with this level of expertise don't go after any old cars, they go after the high end Mercedes, BMW's, Lexus, etc., the
very very expensive
luxury cars. A local jackleg is not going to be able to do this.
Reference; How to steal Cars - A practical attack on KEELOQ
Tip:118
Power Top Sunroof - Operations and Calibration
Any diagnosis of the power sunroof system should begin with the use of a scan tool and the proper Diagnostic
Procedures Information. The scan tool can provide confirmation that the Controller Area Network (CAN) Data Bus is
functional, that all of the electronic modules are sending and receiving the proper messages on the CAN Data Bus,
and that the power sunroof motor is being sent the proper hard wired output by the sunroof switch.
For complete circuit diagrams, refer to the appropriate wiring information. The wiring information includes wiring
diagrams, proper wire and connector repair procedures, details of wire harness routing and retention, connector
pin-out information and location views for the various wire harness connectors, splices and grounds.
SUNROOF OPERATION:
This vehicle has a vent, tilt and slide power sunroof system with express (one-touch) open and closing feature. The
sunroof system receives constant battery feed through a fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). The sunroof will
operate normally with the key in any position while the Accessory Delay system is active. If the sunroof is moving
when the key is turned to the START position (crank engine), all motions stop until the key is released, then the
previously requested sunroof motion will resume. The sunroof will also complete a requested motion if the Accessory
Delay system goes inactive while the motion is in progress.
A combination push-button and rocker switch module mounted in the overhead console controls sunroof operation.
The sunroof switch is a rocker design with a push button in the center of the two halves of the rocker.
Pressing the rocker towards the front of the car commands the sunroof closed.
Pressing the rocker towards the rear of the car commands the sunroof open.
Pressing the center push button commands the sunroof up into the vent position (Rear of sunroof glass raises
above the vehicle roof
with glass still covering the sunroof opening).
Pressing the vent mode button with the sunroof fully open will close all the way and then retract to the half-open
position.
All switch commands operate with the glass starting in any position.
An electronic control system, integral to the motor/module assembly, provides the express open and close functions.
Pressing the
"open" or "close" end of the rocker switch moves the sunroof glass panel to the full open or full closed position,
respectively.
During express closing, anytime an obstacle is detected in the way of the glass, the motor will stop and reverse travel
to avoid pinching
an occupant's finger, ice in the track, etc. This function is called Excessive Force Limitation (EFL). There are two
methods of overriding
the EFL function.
1. When three EFL events occur without the glass being allowed to fully close, the next close attempt will only move
while the close
switch is continuously actuated. This allows the sunroof to be forced closed if multiple close attempts fail.
2. If the sunroof close switch is continuously actuated during an EFL event, through the reversal, and during a two
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second wait time, then
continuing to hold the close switch will cause the roof to move towards close with the EFL protection disabled. This
allows the sunroof to
be forced closed if it is known that a reversal will occur.
While in EFL override, the closing motion will cease if the sunroof switch is released at any time.
The motor/module is programmed to learn the speed required to drive the panel based on position and recalibrates
itself as needed.
If the sunroof becomes un-calibrated, it will only respond to the vent switch.
If the vent switch is pressed, the glass will move toward vent; if the switch is released, all motion stops.
In the event that the sunroof system becomes un-calibrated perform the sunroof position calibration procedure.
SUNROOF POSITION CALIBRATION:
Press the power sunroof switch (Open, Closed, and Vent). If no movement occurs when either the open switch or
closed switch is pressed, but the system does move when the "vent button" is pressed and held, the system is not
calibrated.
Perform the following procedure to "position calibrate" the power sunroof system.
1. Turn the ignition to the RUN position.
2. Press the "vent button" on the power sunroof switch and hold until the sunroof glass
panel has moved to the full vent position and the motor movement has stopped for
at least 1 second.
3. Press the "close switch" on the power sunroof switch and hold for a moment (at least
100ms) and release. The sunroof glass panel should continue travel to the full close
position. If the sunroof glass panel does not return to the full close position, refer to
the appropriate diagnostic information for full system diagnosis.
4. Verify proper system operation.
EXCESSIVE FORCE LIMITATION (EFL) CALIBRATION:
NOTE:
Verify the battery is in good condition prior to performing this procedure.
Do not leave the vehicle on a battery charger while performing this procedure.
If the voltage at the sunroof motor/module drops below 11 volts or
exceeds 15 volts at anytime while this procedure is being performed, the
Excessive Force Limitation (EFL) function will not be properly calibrated.
1. Turn the ignition to the RUN position.
2. Press the vent button on the power sunroof switch and hold until the sunroof glass
panel has moved to the full vent position and the motor movement has stopped for
at least 1 second.
3. Press the close position on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass
panel should continue travel to the full closed position.
[This will be considered the first sunroof closed position in a series of four
sunroof closes.]
4. Press the vent button on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass
panel should move to the full vent position. After the sunroof motor/module has
stopped, press the close position on the power sunroof switch and release. The
sunroof glass panel should continue travel to the full closed position.
[This will be considered the second sunroof closed position in a series
of four sunroof closes.]
5. Continue to move the sunroof glass to the “vent” then “closed” positions two more
times so that the sunroof glass has moved to the closed position a total of four times
starting with the first sunroof close in step 3.
6. Press the open position on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass
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panel should continue travel to the full open position.
7. Press the close position on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass
panel should continue travel to the full closed position.
[This will be considered the first sunroof closed position in a series of five sunroof closes. ]
8. Press the open position on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass
panel should move to the full open position. After the sunroof motor/module has
stopped, press the close position on the power sunroof switch and release. The
sunroof glass panel should continue travel to the full closed position.
Continue to move the sunroof glass to the “open” then “closed” position four more times so that the sunroof glass
has moved to the closed position a total of five times starting with the first sunroof close in step 7.
Verify proper EFL calibration by placing a standard pencil at the front of the sunroof and then moving the sunroof to
the full closed position. The sunroof should reverse direction upon contact without damage to the pencil.
SWITCH - POWER SUNROOF
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Fuse feed from Power Distribution Center (rear) [Fuse # 44]
2. Remove the overhead console, (Refer to Electrical/8M - Message Systems/Overhead Console - Removal) .
3. Disconnect the power sunroof switch wire harness connector.
4. Using an ohmmeter, test the continuity of the power sunroof switch in each switch position.
Refer to the POWER SUNROOF SWITCH CONTINUITY TABLE . If OK, inspect the wiring
harness and connectors for damage. Use a scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures
Information to complete diagnosis of the power sunroof system. If not OK, replace the overhead console.
POWER SUNROOF SWITCH CONTINUITY TABLE
SWITCH POSITION
OFF
CONTINUITY BETWEEN
PINS
NO CONTINUITY
SUNROOF OPEN
B AND D
SUNROOF CLOSED
B AND C
SUNROOF VENT
B AND A
Tip:119
TORQUE SPEC - Engine 5.7L and 6.1L
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TORQUE SPEC, Engine 5.7L
5.7L
DESCRIPTION
Nm
Ft. Lbs.
In. Lbs.
(1/4 – 18 NPT)
Oil Galley Plug
20
15
—
(1/4 – 18 NPT)
Coolant Drain Plug
34
25
—
(3/8 NPT)
27
20
—
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt
122
90
—
Camshaft Tensioner Plate Bolts
28
21
—
Coil to Cylinder Head Cover Bolts
7
-
62
Timing Chain Case Cover Bolts
28
21
—
55
41
—
21
plus 90° Turn
15
plus 90° Turn
—
Block Pipe Plugs
Lifting Stud
Connecting Rod Cap Bolts
Main Bearing Cap Bolts
(Refer to Engine/Engine Block/CRANKSHAFT - Installation)
Cylinder Head Bolts
(Refer to Engine/Cylinder Head - Installation)
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts
8
—
71
Exhaust Manifold-to-Cylinder Head
25
18
—
Flexplate-to-Crankshaft Bolts
95
70
—
Flywheel-to-Crankshaft Bolts
75
55
—
Front Insulator Through Bolt/Nut
95
70
—
Through Bolt/Nut (4WD)
102
75
—
Stud Nut (4WD)
41
30
—
Front Insulator-to-Block Bolts (2WD)
95
70
—
Intake Manifold Bolts
(Refer - Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake – Installation)
Lifter Guide Holder
12
9
—
Oil Pan Bolts
12
9
—
Oil Dipstick Tube
12
9
—
Oil Pan Drain Plug
34
25
—
Oil Pump Attaching Bolts
28
21
—
Oil Pump Pickup Tube Bolt/Nut
28
21
—
Rear Seal Retainer Attaching Bolts
15
11
—
Rear Insulator-to-Bracket Bolt
68
50
—
Rear Insulator-to-Crossmember
41
30
—
Rear Insulator-to-Crossmember Bolt
68
50
—
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DESCRIPTION
Nm
Ft. Lbs.
In. Lbs.
Rear Insulator-to-Transmission Bolt
68
50
—
Rear Insulator Bracket Bolts
68
50
—
Rear Support Bracket Bolt
41
30
—
Rear Support Plate-to-Transfer Case
Bolts
41
30
—
Rocker Arm Bolts
22
16
—
Thermostat Housing Bolts
28
21
—
Throttle Body Bolts
12
9
—
Transfer Case-to-Insulator Bolt
204
150
—
Transmission Support Bracket Bolt
68
50
—
Vibration Damper Bolt
176
130
—
Water Pump-to-Timing Chain Case
Cover Bolts
28
21
—
Engine/Engine Block/CRANKSHAFT - Installation
NOTE: The main cap crossbolts are torqued after final torque of the main cap bolts.
Always use a new washer/seal on the crossbolts.
1.
Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main bearing caps (1) making sure the arrow (2) faces forward.
2.
Tighten main bearing cap bolts to 13 N-m (10 ft. lbs) in the sequence shown.
3.
Tighten main bearing cap bolts to 27 N·m ( 20 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
4.
Rotate main cap bolts an additional 90° in the sequence shown.
Engine/Cylinder Head - Installation
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1. Tighten the cylinder head bolts 1 through 10 to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) using the sequence shown.
5. Rotate the cylinder head bolts 1 through 10 90° using the sequence shown.
Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake – Installation
Install new intake manifold bolts (with thread lock patch) and tighten to 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.) in the
sequence shown.
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TORQUE - Fuel System, 5.7L
DESCRIPTION
Nm
Ft.
Lbs.
In. Lbs.
Camshaft Position Sensor Mounting Bolts
12
-
105
Crankshaft Position Sensor Mounting
Bolts
12
-
105
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
28
20
-
Knock Sensor bolt - 3.5L
10
7
88.5
Manifold Tuning Valve - 3.5L
2.8
-
25
Oxygen Sensor
41
30
-
Powertrain Control Module
4
-
35
Throttle Body Mounting - 3.5L
5.5
-
50
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
DESCRIPTION
Nm
Ft.
Lbs.
In. Lbs.
Throttle Body Mounting Bracket - 3.5L
27
20
-
Short Runner Valve - 3.5L
6.7
-
60
Fuel Rail Bolts - 3.5L
28
-
250
Fuel Rail Bolts - 5.7, 6.1L
11
-
100
6.1L ENGINE
DESCRIPTION
Nm
Ft. Lbs.
In. Lbs.
(1/4 NPT)
20
15
-
(3/8 NPT)
27
20
-
Camshaft Sprocket - Bolt
122
90
-
Camshaft Tensioner Plate - Bolts
28
21
-
Timing Chain Case Cover - Bolts
28
21
-
55
40
-
45
plus 60° Turn
33
plus 60° Turn
-
28
plus 90° Turn
21
plus 90° Turn
-
22
16
-
Step 1 - Tighten bolts 1-10
34
20
25
15
-
Step 2 - Tighten bolts 1-1 0
Step 2 - Tighten bolts 11-1 5 verify
54
20
40
15
-
Step 3 - Rotate bolts 1-10
90°
-
-
34
25
-
Cylinder Head Cover - Bolts
8
-
70
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head - Bolts
31
23
-
Flexplate to Crankshaft - Bolts
95
70
-
Flywheel to Crankshaft - Bolts
75
55
-
Front Insulator - Through bolt/nut
95
70
-
Block Pipe Plugs
Lifting Stud
Connecting Rod Cap - Bolts
Main Bearing Cap - Bolts
M-12 Bolts
Crossbolts
M-8 Bolts
Cylinder Head - Bolts
NOTE: Follow Installation sequence
(Refer to 09 - Engine/Cylinder
Head - Installation) .
M-12 Bolts
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DESCRIPTION
Nm
Ft. Lbs.
In. Lbs.
Front Insulator to Block - Bolts
95
70
-
Generator - Mounting Bolt
55
40
-
12
9
106
Lifter Guide Holder
12
9
106
Piston Oil Cooler Jet - Bolts
13
10
115
Oil Pan - Bolts
12
9
105
Oil Dipstick Tube
31
23
-
Oil Pan - Drain Plug
27
20
-
Oil Pump - Attaching Bolts
28
21
-
Oil Pump Pickup Tube - Bolt and Nut
28
21
-
Rear Seal Retainer Attaching Bolts
15
11
-
Rear Insulator to Bracket
68
50
-
Rear Insulator to Crossmember
41
30
-
Rear Insulator to Transmission
68
50
-
Rear Insulator Bracket - Bolts
68
50
-
Rocker Arm - Bolts
22
16
-
Thermostat Housing - Bolts
28
21
-
Throttle Body - Bolts
12
9
105
Vibration Damper - Bolt
176
129
-
Intake Manifold - Bolts
NOTE: Follow Installation sequence
(Refer to 09 - Engine/Manifolds
/MANIFOLD, Intake Installation)
Water Pump to Timing Chain Case Cover Bolts
Tip:120
EVIC Chime Stack
Whenever you hear the "chime sound", this is a way the vehicle tells you information. Seat belt warning, key left in
Ignition, lights left on, etc. If you have the EVIC (Electronic Vehicle Information Center) option on your Challenger,
you can go into the extended menu (see Tip:3 ) and scroll through until you see the Screen #4 (Chime Stack
Screen) like so;
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Screen # 4
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Unless cleared, the CHIME STACK usually it will display the last 8 events to cause a chime, such as low fuel, IGN key
turned while engine running, etc.
It's not an OBD code menu or any other code menu, it's purely an informational menu. It will hold a number for
"chime event" in a FIFO (first in first out) buffer arrangement.
If for example there was a number '13' as the last chime code, the next screen will tell you "MIL LAMP" as the
reason for the chime.
If you would like to chart or record your CHIME STACK numeric codes, you can go to the next screen (Screen #6) to
see this display and the EVIC will tell you what the "last chime message" was;
Screen # 6
LastChm - Last Chime (Phrase value)
What caused the last alert chime to go off. i.e. "Brk Fluid" - brake fluid light, Airbag" airbag light, door ajar, seatbelt
warning, or ACC If the adaptive cruise gave you an ATTENTION due to rapid closure and auto-cancel. Great on alerts
that don't leave a "residue" so you can find out what the last “ding” was about.
VTA - Vehicle Theft Alarm (Phrase value)
If alarm was triggered, value indicates the sensor that caused the alarm to go off, i.e. fault code.
Wake - (Phrase value)
Indicates how the car was turned ON, i.e. "CAN Bus" = Remote starter or Start Button.
VMM 646 - Constant numeric value? (Unknown)
Tip:121
Transmission Control Module (TCM) - Limp Mode(s)
Temporary Transmission "Limp Home Mode".
The transmission is monitored for abnormal conditions. If a condition is detected that could result in transmission
damage, the transmission will engage Limp Home Mode.
If vehicle acceleration worsens or the transmission no longer shifts, the transmission is most likely operating in the
Limp Home Mode. In this mode, the transmission will remain in the current gear until the vehicle is brought to a stop.
After the vehicle has stopped, PARK, REVERSE, and NEUTRAL will continue to operate. Second gear will operate in
the DRIVE position.
The Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) may be illuminated.
A reset feature is available to allow the vehicle to be driven to an authorized dealer for service.
To reset the transmission, use the following procedure:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Stop the vehicle.
Move the shift lever into the PARK position.
Turn the engine off.
Wait approximately 10 seconds.
Restart the engine.
Move the shift lever into the desired range.
If the problem is no longer detected, the transmission will return to normal operation.
NOTE:
Even if the transmission can be reset, we recommend that you visit your authorized dealer at your earliest possible
convenience.
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Your authorized dealer has diagnostic equipment to determine if the problem could recur. Have the transmission
checked at your
authorized dealer as soon as possible.
If the problem has been momentary, the transmission can be reset to regain all forward gears.
FAQ (Frequently Asked Question)
Q: I have a problem with my Challenger in that I have a CEL (Check Engine Light) and the car is stuck in 2nd gear.
I cannot reset the fault (disconnect battery, etc.) and cannot drive the car beyond 30 mpg.!?
A: Yes, as mentioned you have a "hard fault" and the TCM (Transmission Control Module) has put the vehicle in
"permanent limp mode".
You have a solenoid, speed sensor or under voltage control failure of some kind and the particular ERROR CODE(s)
will be stored in the
TCM as a DTC.
The Dealer will be able to hook up to this via StarScan/StarMobile Diagnostic mode and see exactly the nature of the
failure.
Read the following to understand the six different "limp modes" there are in the NAG1 automatic transmission!
TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE (TCM)
CONTROLLER MODES OF OPERATION
*Permanent Limp-In Mode:
When the TCM determines there is a non-recoverable condition present that does not allow proper transmission
operation, it places the transmission in permanent Limp-In Mode. When the condition occurs the TCM turns off all
solenoids as well as the solenoid supply output circuit. If this occurs while the vehicle is moving, the transmission
remains in the current gear position until the ignition is turned off or the shifter is placed in the "P" position. When
the shifter has been placed in "P," the transmission only allows 2nd gear operation. If this occurs while the vehicle is
not moving, the transmission only allows operation in 2nd gear.
*Temporary Limp-In Mode:
This mode is the same as the permanent Limp-In Mode except if the condition is no longer present, the system
resumes normal operation.
*Under Voltage Limp-In Mode
When the TCM detects that system voltage has dropped below 8.5 volts, it disables voltage-dependant diagnostics and
places the transmission in the temporary Limp-In Mode. When the TCM senses that the voltage has risen above 9.0
volts, normal transmission operation is resumed.
*Hardware Error Mode:
When the TCM detects a major internal error, the transmission is placed in the permanent Limp-In Mode and ceases
all communication over the CAN bus. When the TCM has entered this mode normal transmission operation does not
resume until all DTCs are cleared from the TCM.
*Loss of Drive:
If the TCM detects a situation that has resulted or may result in a catastrophic engine or transmission problem, the
transmission is placed in the neutral position. Improper Ratio, Input Sensor Overspeed or Engine Overspeed DTCs
cause the loss of drive.
*Controlled Limp-in Mode:
When a failure does not require the TCM to shut down the solenoid supply, but the failure is severe enough that the
TCM places the transmission into a predefined gear, there are several shift performance concerns. For instance, if the
transmission is slipping, the controller tries to place the transmission into 3rd gear and maintain 3rd gear for all
forward drive conditions.
The link below provides even more important operational information about the Dodge NAG1 transmission mysterious
"Limp Modes" and how they work.
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/TCM-NAG1.htm
Tip:122
PCM MONITORED COMPONENT
There are several components that will affect vehicle emissions if they malfunction. If one of these components
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malfunctions the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (Check Engine) will illuminate. Some of the component monitors are
checking for proper operation of the part. Electrically operated components now have input (rationality) and output (functionality)
checks as well as continuity tests (opens/shorts).
PCM MONITORED SYSTEM COMPONENTS
Tip:123
KeyLess Go Ignition/Pushbutton functions
No need to try to play around to figure things out here.... Your owner's manual clearly describes Keyless Go
operations.
If you have Keyless Go, you have EVIC (Electronic Vehicle Information Center) as well...
Keyless Go ACC/IGN (ON) Display
2009 Challenger R/T owner's manual (pg. 175)
2009 Challenger SRT owner's manual (pg. 175)
2010 Challenger R/T owner's manual (pg. 181)
2010 Challenger SRT owner's manual (pg. 181)
Keyless Go Display — If Equipped (EVIC)
When the ENGINE START/STOP button is pressed to change ignition switch positions, the Keyless Go icon
momentarily appears in the EVIC display showing the new ignition switch position.
START:
To change the ignition switch positions without starting the vehicle (do not step on brake) and use the accessories
follow these steps.
• Starting with the ignition switch in the OFF position:
• Press the ENGINE START/STOP button once to change the ignition switch to the ACC position (EVIC displays
“IGNITION MODE ACCESSORY”),
• Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a second time to change the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position
(EVIC displays “IGNITION MODE RUN”),
• Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a third time to return the ignition switch to the OFF position (EVIC
displays “IGNITION MODE OFF”).
NOTE:
Under certain conditions, the display may be superseded by another display of higher priority.
But when the ignition switch position is changed, the display always re-appears.
Now, if you not have a digital copy of your owner's manual on your computer, you can easily and quickly download a
standard Adobe .PDF file of your model year at;
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http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/manuals/
Save this document in your MyDocuments folder and then create a shortcut to it from your desktop. You can have
this manual up in less than two mouse clicks, and you USE the SEARCH window to locate anything you are looking for
in this large document very fast.
For more specific information on the Keyless Go system and possible battery discharge see Tip:142 Keyless Go
Button (Tech Tip & Operation Info)
Tip:124
TCM Adaptation - NAG1 Only
TCM ADAPTATION - NAG1 Only
The adaptation procedure requires the use of the appropriate scan tool. This program allows the electronic
transmission system to re-calibrate itself.
This will provide the proper baseline transmission operation. The adaptation procedure should be performed if any of
the following procedures are
performed:
Transmission Assembly Replacement
Transmission Control Module Replacement
Clutch Plate and/or Seal Replacement
Electrohydraulic Unit Replacement or Recondition
1. With the scan tool, reset the Transmission adaptives.
Resetting the adaptives will set the adaptives to factory settings.
NOTE: Perform the Coast Down Adaptations first. The Transmission Temperature must be greater than 60°C (140°F)
and less than 70°C (158°F). Failure to stay within these temperature ranges will void the procedure.
2. Drive the vehicle until the transmission temperature is in the specified range.
3. Perform 4 to 5 coast downs from 5th to 4th gear and then 4th to 3rd gear.
NOTE: For Upshift adaptation, the Transmission temperature must be greater than 60°C (140°F) and less than 100°C (212°F).
Failure to stay within these temperature ranges will void this procedure.
4. From a stop, moderately accelerate the vehicle and obtain all forward gear ranges while keeping the Engine RPM
below 1800 RPM.
Repeat this procedure 4 to 5 times.
5. Obtaining 5th gear may be difficult at 1800 RPM. Allow the transmission to shift into 5th gear at a higher RPM
then lower the
RPM to 1800 and perform manual shifts between 4th and 5th gears using the shift lever.
6. The TCM will store the adaptives every 10 minutes. After completion of the adaptation procedure make sure the
vehicle stays
running for at least 10 minutes.
7. It is possible to manually store the adaptives under the 10 minute time frame using the scan tool Store Adaptives
procedure.
Tip:125
Oil Change Required Light and how it works
The main computer in the vehicle has the ability to model or trend the condition of the engine oil and accurately
predict when the oil should be changed.
How is this done?
Here is what the owner's manual says.
"The engine oil change indicator system is duty cycle based, which means the engine oil change interval may fluctuate
dependent upon your personal driving style."
Duty cycle is not a time period per se', but event(s) occurring in either a fixed or variable frequency time base as a
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percentage of that specific time base
(example 25% or 80% duty cycle). In other words, the duty cycle is the fraction of time that a system is in an
"active" state.
In particular its use in the following context:
In a periodic phenomenon, the ratio of the duration of the phenomenon in a given period to the period.
Duty cycle (D) = T1 / T2
where;
T1 is the duration that the function is "active high" (normally when signal is greater than zero);
Τ2 is the period of the function.
Note: T2 may not be a "fixed" time period.
What does all this mean? It means that the PCM or in this case NGC (Next Generation Controller) can accurately
model the quality of the engine oil and use this in its overall algorithm to evaluate or "rationalize" engine oil quality.
It is this rationalization of the required inputs from sensors that the NGC controllers rise above their previous power
train control modules (PCM). So the NGC is looking at several inputs to use these in factors in determining oil
quality.
This is done during the "cooling down" period of time subsequent to a engine shutdown. This cooling down period is
mentioned several times in evaluation of DTC's or rationalizations of several systems monitored by the NGC. This
period of time for cool down is 480 min's or 8 hours. At the end of this time period, a "cool down" event has ended.
The owner's manual and the service manual for the 2008-2010 model Challengers does not describe how this system
works. It only describes some aspects of how it makes the "Change Oil Required" warning lamp to illuminate.
Since the Oil Condition Trend Algorithm is a patented process, there are some strong similarities in how the OCT
is developed in the Dodge Challenger NGC system. The sensors "required" to do this are indeed present and available
to the NGC. Part of the process is indeed described in the Service Manual (2009 Service Information (LC) Challenger
p/n 81-270-09041-CD) in different areas of electronic descriptions for DTC and monitored component. But, alas
specific the details describing the exact modeling are not available to the public. I suspect this is due to the United
States Patent #6509749.
Irregardless, the modeling algorithm is there and some associated aspects need to be described.
1. If you change oil before the "Oil Change Required" light comes on, the NGC will not know or detect this. It will
only affect the results
of the modeling algorithm and perhaps delay the outcome until "limits" are reached (ie. monitored mileage, etc.)
2. If you change your own oil you should "reset" the NGC so that it will begin a "new" modeling period.
See Tip:38 Reset the "Oil Change Required" message in the EVIC:
3. If you change your own oil at predetermined mileage intervals that are prior to recommended periods then this
is academic and you
simply reset the OCR system as is needed to avoid the nuisance display warnings.
Oil Condition Trend Algorithm
United States Patent 6509749
An algorithm by which a time normalized oil condition trend (OCT) is developed. During engine off periods, while the
engine is cooling, the vehicle's main computer program implements the trend algorithm according to the present invention by
which engine oil conductivity (oil sensor output voltage) and temperature data are obtained in a specified temperature range,
and are then input into a cool down equation to determine its coefficients using nonlinear regression.
This cool down equation models oil conductivity as a function of temperature and is used at a specified time during an
engine-on period to calculate an OCT point.
Collectively, these OCT points determine the oil condition trend that is analyzed by a procedure called from the vehicle's
main computer program to determine when an oil change is necessary.
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The method of wherein the cool down equation of said step of generating is given by V=aT2+bT+c
Wherein;
V is a voltage output of the oil condition sensor.
T is a plurality of temperatures selected over said range of cooling.
a, b and c are constants.
Source: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6509749.html
Document: Download PDF 6509749
In conclusion;
In the Challenger NGC (PCM) is a software routine (ie. mathematical modeling algorithm) that over time evaluates
the number of cool-down cycles, WOT modes, engine runtime hours (start cycles, etc) and mileage factors.
Like the description above, the NGC also monitors oil “conductivity” to learn and track the moisture content which
degrades oil viscosity and lubrication ability over time. Using the oil pressure, oil temperature and other vital engine
sensor inputs the PCM (NGC) can determine the engine oil viscosity.
Incorrect viscosity will affect the operation of the MDS by delaying cylinder activation.
Tip:126
FOBIK "TRAPPED" IN WIN (Wireless Ignition Node)
The following descriptions will describe how the FOBIK when used as a "key" may become stuck where it cannot be
removed.
Some of this by design is for safety purposes and others may be due to dead battery state.
FOBIK REMOVAL INHIBIT FUNCTION
The key removal inhibit solenoid internal to the WIN prevents the FOB with Integrated Key (FOBIK) from being
rotated in the ignition switch to the LOCK position for all vehicles with an automatic transmission unless the
transmission shift lever is in the PARK position.
Automatic or Manual Transmission:
The WIN module monitors a hard wired input from a switch integral to the automatic “transmission shifter module” to
control this feature.
The key removal inhibit solenoid is electronically disabled internally by the WIN on vehicles with a “manual
transmission”.
FOBIK TRAPPED IN WIN (Wireless Ignition Node)
The FOB with Integrated Key (FOBIK) cannot be rotated to the LOCK position, allowing it to be removed from the
ignition switch also referred to as Wireless Ignition Node (WIN).
The automatic transmission is shifted mechanically through a cable from the gearshift lever mechanism to the
transmission or transaxle valve body. A gated park switch is physically located on and integral to the gearshift lever
mechanism and is hard wired directly to the WIN.
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The gated park switch is a simple plunger-like actuated open or closed contact switch that could be considered
redundant to the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) except that it monitors the position selected with the gearshift
lever, while the TRS monitors the position or gear of the transmission that is actually engaged. A damaged or
improperly adjusted gearshift cable could result in a different gear being engaged than that which is selected.
The WIN uses the gated park switch input to control an internal key lock solenoid, which controls whether the FOBIK
can be rotated to the LOCK position. When the gearshift lever is not in the PARK position, the gated park switch is a
closed circuit, the key lock solenoid is energized and the FOBIK cannot be rotated to the LOCK position for removal.
NOTE:
If your vehicle has a completely dead battery, and you used the valet key to get inside the vehicle and note that
nothing is working, in placing the FOBIK in the WIN and trying to see if you can “start” the engine (nothing happens
on dead battery) you may find that the FOBIK has now become "trapped" in the WIN and cannot be removed.
By trying to force the FOBIK out with brute force will only damage the WIN module and it will need to be
subsequently replaced.
You will have to CHARGE the vehicles battery up enough to see activity on the EVIC at which time you should be able
to get the "solenoid pin" to activate and release the FOBIK from the WIN.
Tip:127
Push/Pop Pins, Plastic Rivets and Clip Replacements!
IF you do much with your vehicle on door panels, spoilers, rear fascia or anything with those dang plastic pins, rivets
and clips you need to find a place that carries an excellent selection. You will be in for severe sticker shock if you
choose to go to the dealer for some of these inexpensive parts!
Look at the index below and associated Dodge part number(s).
Bookmark this following link; ClipsAndFasteners.com - Automotive Retainers, Clips and Fasteners
TRIM PANEL RETAINER Mopar PN 3691950
Fender & Bumper Shield Retainer
Black Nylon
Head Diameter: 11/16"
Stem Diameter: 5/16"
Stem Length: 5/8"
Replaces GM: 332364; Ford: 389358; Chrysler: 3691590, 6031321; AMC: 4004569
50 Per Package @ $5.02
FENDER MUDSKIRT Mopar PN 34201621
Head Diameter: 11/16"
Panel Range: 9/16"
Fits Into 1/4" Hole
Replaces GM #14019205 & Chrysler #34201621
Chrysler Push Type Retainer Mopar PN 5160260-AA
Rear Bumper, Tail Light and Fender Push-Type Retainer
Black Nylon
Head Diameter: 18mm
Stem Length: 20mm
Fits Into 8mm Hole
Replaces Chrysler: 5160260-AA Dodge Caliber and Jeep Compass & Patriot 2007 – On
Chrysler Push Type Door Panel Retainer Mopar PN OWX68BD1-AA
Door Trim Panel Push-Type Retainer
Tan Nylon
Head Diameter: 22mm
Stem Length: 10mm
Fits Into 9mm Hole
Replaces Chrysler: OWX68BD1-AA 300M and Dodge Charger & Magnum 2005 - On
Chrysler Door Panel Retainer (Male) A20274
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Door Panel Retainer
White Nylon
Top Head Diameter: 13mm
Bottom Head Diameter: 23mm
Stem Diameter: 6.5mm
Stem Length: 20mm
Use With A20275
Chrysler LH Series 2000 - On
Chrysler Door Panel Retainer (Female) A20275
Door Panel Grommet
White Nylon
Head Diameter: 19mm
Stem Length: 12mm
Fits Into 9mm Hole
Use With A20274
Chrysler LH Series 2000 - On
1/4" (6.3mm) Black Nylon Black Rivets,
Mopar PN 6500911
Fits 1/4" (6.6mm) Hole
Panel Range (grip) 5/32" - 13/32"
Flange Size: 43/64"
Black Nylon
Replaces G.M. # 14063981, Ford N803043-S & Chrysler 6500911
Push Type Retainer Chrysler Mopar PN 6503598
Head Diameter: 20mm
Stem Length: 20mm
Fits Into 5/16" (8mm) Hole
GM Saturn 2 Door & 4 Door Models
Replaces GM # 21030249, Ford # N807389S And Chrysler # 6503598
Tip:128
Dash Power Plug Modification
Modify dash power plug (cigarette lighter plug) to always be powered like the one inside the center console.
The dash plug below the Radio is tied to the AUX power system and will be powered off at about an hour after you
shut the car off.
To make the cigarette lighter power connector be "hot" even with the car off go to the PDC (Power Distribution
Center) Fuse Box in
your trunk and open it. (It's located in the spare tire well.)
When you open the fuse box, look on the inside of the fuse box lid and you will see a numbered layout of the fuses.
Look for Fuse #18 with letters "IGN" (Ignition) label printed on the plastic right below it. It will be a bright yellow
20-amp fuse that is offset from the other 4 or 5 in its particular row. Unplug it, and plug it into the first two holes so
that it is in line with the rest of the fuses in that little row (undo its offset).
Now your cigarette lighter in the dash will be powered all the time. The best part about this fuse, is that when you
place it in the "Always On" block, it frees up that previous accessory connection that you can use for another "Remote
Wire" connection on something like an amplifier, since there isn't one coming off of the head unit on our stock radios.
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Tip:129
NAG1 Automatic Transmission Fill
[The following tip is provided courtesy of Kruzer.]
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
1. Verify that the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
2. Remove the dipstick tube cap.
3. Add following initial quantity of Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid, to the transmission:
a. If only fluid and filter were changed, add 5.0 L (10.6pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.
b. If the transmission was completely overhauled or the torque converter was replaced or drained, add
7.7 L (16.3 pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.
4. Check the transmission fluid
(Refer to 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic - NAG1/FLUID and FILTER - Standard Procedure)
and adjust as required.
FLUID/FILTER SERVICE
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Fluid/Filter Service Points
1
2
3
4
5
-
OIL FILTER
OIL PAN GASKET
OIL PAN
RETAINER
BOLT
1. Run the engine until the transmission oil reaches operating temperature.
2. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Remove the bolts (5) and retainers (4) holding the oil pan to the transmission.
4. Remove the transmission oil pan (3) and gasket (2) from the transmission.
5. Remove the transmission oil filter (1) and o-ring from the electrohydraulic control unit.
6. Clean the inside of the oil pan (3) of any debris. Inspect the oil pan gasket (2) and replace if necessary.
7. Install a new oil filter (1) and o-ring into the electrohydraulic control unit.
8. Install the oil pan (3) and gasket (2) onto the transmission.
9. Install the oil pan bolts (5) and retainers (4). Torque the bolts to 8 N·m (70 in.lbs.).
10. Lower the vehicle and add 5.0 L (10.6 pts.) of transmission fluid to the transmission.
11. Check the oil level
(Refer to 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic - NAG1/FLUID and FILTER - Standard Procedure) .
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
NOTE: Refer to Service Procedures in this group for fluid level checking procedures.
Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid is the recommended fluid for Chrysler automatic transmissions.
Dexron II fluid IS NOT recommended. Clutch chatter can result from the use of improper fluid.
Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it can be identified
from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an
indicator of fluid condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look darker in color and may eventually
become brown. This is normal. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Consequently, odor and
color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid change.
FLUID ADDITIVES
Chrysler strongly recommends against the addition of any fluids to the transmission, other than those automatic
transmission fluids listed above. Exceptions to this policy are the use of special dyes to aid in detecting fluid leaks.
Various “special” additives and supplements exist that claim to improve shift feel and/or quality. These additives and
others also claim to improve converter clutch operation and inhibit overheating, oxidation, varnish, and sludge. These
claims have not been supported to the satisfaction of Chrysler and these additives must not be used. The use of
transmission “sealers” should also be avoided, since they may adversely affect the integrity of transmission seals.
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NOTE: See also Tip:59 NAG1 Dipstick and Transmission Level Checking (AUTO)
Tip:130
Stuck CD in MyGig Multidisc player?
HELP?! An old cd stuck in mygig!
I finally got around to loading up a bunch of CD’s in MYGig model RER in my 2010 SRT8.
The first 4 CD’s went fine until I loaded in an old scratched Door’s CD.
Now it looks like its stuck in some type of loop trying to read the CD and it will not "eject".
I have been pushing the stop soft button many times, the open/close hard button. Turned it off then back on many
times.
I lost at this point. Anyone have an issue like this where you cannot get the CD out. It just says “cannot open during
recording”
or something like that and it says recording 0%..
I don’t see anything in the manual. HELP!
Answer:
For RER (Nav Enabled MyGIG Radios) Press the SEEKUP - SEEKDOWN - and NAV hard keys on the radio all at the same time to eject the CD.
For REN (Non Nav Enabled MyGIG Radios) Press the SEEKUP - SEEKDOWN - and AUDIO hard keys on the radio all at the same time to eject the CD
Need more help? Go to http://mofv.com/mygig/
Fixed!?
Thanks all, I could not stand it anymore, so late last night I went out and pushed the open/close button and it
opened and out comes the old CD...
Tip:131
Custom FOBIK covers
For those interested in protecting those expensive electronic keys, there is a vendor that provides a good selection of
different colored slip-on RKE covers.
IF your FOBIK is going to be subjected to a number of different conditions, wet fingers, dirty hands, etc, this looks
like a good way to protect that key!
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http://www.thejacketstore.com/servlet/StoreFront
Tip:132
Uconnect Phone Compatibility List
For those with mobile phones and a need to see the "Uconnect" compatibility listing to see if you or a spouse's phone is
support through the Uconnect feature in your Challenger (or Dodge vehicle 2007-2009), go to the following link for a
current list;
https://www.dodge.com/en/owners/pdf/download/Phone_Compatibility_Document.pdf
Tip:133
Challenger CHIME WARNING SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION:
The chime warning system uses an electromechanical transducer and an electromechanical relay that are soldered
onto the electronic circuit board inside of the CCN (Cab Compartment Node).
The CCN is also known as the vehicle’s dash “Instrument Cluster”. The system provides an audible indication of
various vehicle conditions that may require the attention of the vehicle operator or occupants. The CCN also includes
the hardware and software necessary to serve as the electronic body control module and is sometimes referred to as
the Cab Compartment Node or CCN.
The electromechanical transducer generates beep tones and chime tones, while the electromechanical relay
generates click tones to emulate the sounds associated with conventional turn signal and hazard warning flasher
operation. The microprocessor-based CCN utilizes electronic chime request messages received from other modules in
the vehicle over the CAN (Controller Area Network) data bus along with hardwired inputs to monitor many sensors
and switches throughout the vehicle. In response to those inputs, the circuitry and programming of the CCN allow it
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to control the audible outputs that are produced through its on-board transducer and relay.
OPERATION (CHIME WARNING SYSTEM)
The chime warning system operates on battery voltage received through a fuse in the Junction Block (JB) on a
non-switched fused B(+) circuit so that the system may operate regardless of the ignition switch position. The chime
warning system also monitors the ignition switch position so that some chime features are functional only with the
ignition switch in the On position, while others are functional regardless of the ignition switch position.
The chime warning system provides an audible indication to the vehicle operator or occupants under the following
conditions:
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Airbag Indicator Warning - The Instrument Cluster also known as the Cab Compartment Node (CCN)
transducer will generate one short chime when the ignition switch is in the On position, and an electronic
message is received over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus from the Occupant Restraint Controller
(ORC) requesting “Airbag” indicator illumination. This warning will only occur following completion of the
“Airbag” indicator bulb test, and will only occur once during any ignition cycle.
Compass Mini-Trip Computer Global Reset - The CCN transducer will generate one short chime when the
ignition switch is in the On position, and an electronic message is received over the CAN data bus from the
optional Compass Mini-Trip Computer (CMTC) requesting that the CMTC average fuel economy, trip odometer
and distance to empty data be reset. The CMTC monitors hard wired inputs from the U.S./Metric and Reset
button switches to determine the proper reset messages to send to the CCN.
Door Ajar Indicator Warning - The CCN transducer will generate one short chime when the ignition switch
is in the On position, a hardwired input is received indicating that the status of any door ajar switch has
changed, and an electronic message is received over the CAN data bus indicating that the vehicle is moving.
Fasten Seat Belt Indicator Warning - The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a slow rate to
announce that a hardwired input from the seat belt switch indicates that the driver side front seat belt is not
fastened with the ignition switch in the On position. The chime warning system also supports the enhanced
seat belt reminder (beltminder) when this feature is enabled.
Gate Ajar Indicator Warning - The CCN transducer will generate one short chime when the ignition switch
is in the On position, a hardwired input is received indicating that the status of the liftgate ajar or trunk lid
switch has changed, and an electronic message is received over the CAN data bus indicating that the vehicle is
moving.
Head/Park Lamps-On Warning - The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a fast rate to
indicate that hardwired inputs from the driver door ajar switch, the headlamp switch, and the ignition switch
indicate that the exterior lamps are turned On with the driver side front door opened and the ignition switch in
the Off position. The chimes will continue to sound until the exterior lamps are turned Off, the driver side
front door is closed, or the ignition switch is turned to the On position, whichever occurs first.
Key-In-Ignition Warning - The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a fast rate to indicate
that hardwired inputs from the driver door ajar switch, the ignition switch, and the key-in ignition switch
circuitry of the ignition switch indicate that the key is in the ignition lock cylinder with the driver side front
door open and the ignition switch in the Off position. The chimes will continue to sound until the key is
removed from the ignition lock cylinder, the driver side front door is closed, or the ignition switch is turned to
the On position, whichever occurs first.
Low Fuel Indicator Warning - The CCN transducer will generate one short chime when the low fuel
indicator is illuminated by the instrument cluster circuitry. This chime will only occur once during any ignition
cycle.
Low Wash Indicator Warning - The CCN transducer will generate one short chime when the low washer
fluid indicator is illuminated by the instrument cluster circuitry. This chime will only occur once during any
ignition cycle.
Overspeed Warning (Middle East) - The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a slow rate to
indicate that the vehicle speed is over a pre-programmed speed value. The CCN monitors electronic vehicle
speed messages received over the CAN data bus. This feature is only enabled on an CCN that has been
programmed with a Middle East Gulf Coast Country (GCC) code.
Park Brake Reminder - The CCN transducer will generate one short chime to announce that the hardwired
input from the parking brake switch and a vehicle speed message input received over the CAN data bus
indicate that the parking brake is applied and the vehicle is moving. This chime will repeat each time the input
conditions are met.
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
Sentry Key “Customer Learn” Mode Announcement - The CCN transducer will generate one short chime
to confirm that an electronic “Customer Learn” mode message has been received over the CAN data bus to
indicate that the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM) is prepared for programming additional sentry
key transponders. This chime feature is only active on vehicles equipped with the optional Sentry Key system,
and sold in a market where “Customer Learn” programming is an allowed feature.
Trans Overtemp Indicator Warning - The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a slow rate
when the transmission overtemp indicator is illuminated by the instrument cluster for a high or critical
transmission fluid temperature condition. This chime will repeat each time the trans overtemp indicator is
cycled from Off to On.
Turn Signal/Hazard Warning Flasher Emulation - The CCN relay will generate repetitive clicks at a slow
rate to emulate an electromechanical flasher when the turn signal or hazard warning system are operating.
The CCN relay will generate repetitive clicks at a fast rate to indicate that the right or left turn signal are
operating with one or more bulbs inoperative. In either case, the clicks will continue until the turn signal and
hazard warning systems are turned off.
Turn Signal On Warning - The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a slow rate to indicate
that a turn signal has been active continuously for 1.6 kilometers (1 mile) with the vehicle speed greater than
22 kilometers-per-hour (15 miles-per hour). Vehicles built for markets other than the United States and
Canada have a revised distance threshold of 4 kilometers for this feature. The chime will continue until the
turn signal input becomes inactive or until the vehicle speed message indicates that the speed is less than 22
kilometers-per-hour (15 miles-per-hour), whichever occurs first. The hazard warning flashers will not activate
this chime feature.
Warning Indicator Announcement - The CCN transducer will generate one short chime each time the
check gauges indicator is illuminated by the instrument cluster circuitry. The check gauges indicator may be
illuminated when any critical engine or transmission systems are operating outside of their normal
parameters. The instrument cluster monitors electronic messages received over the CAN data bus to
determine when to illuminate the check gauges indicator.
The CCN provides chime service for all available features in the chime warning system.
The CCN relies upon its internal programming, numerous hardwired inputs, and electronic message inputs received
from other modules over the CAN data bus network to provide the chime warning system features. The internal
programming of the CCN determines the priority of each chime request input that is received, as well as the rate and
duration of each chime that is to be generated.
The hardwired chime warning system inputs to the CCN may be diagnosed and tested using conventional diagnostic
tools and procedures. However, conventional diagnostic methods may not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the
CCN, the CAN data bus, or the electronic messages received by the CCN from other modules.
The most reliable, efficient and accurate means to diagnose the CCN, the CAN data bus, or the electronic message
inputs used for the chime warning system requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate
diagnostic information.
Tip:134
EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM INTEGRITY MONITOR (ESIM)
The ESIM is part of the overall emissions control and controls fumes from the fuel to escape to the atmosphere.
During refueling, pressure is built up in the evaporative system. When pressure approximately .5 inches of water,
the large check valve unseats and pressure vents to the fresh air filter.
Conversely, when the system cools and the resulting vacuum lifts the small check valve from its seat and allows fresh
air to enter the system and relieve the vacuum condition. When a calibrated amount of vacuum is achieved in the
evaporative system, the diaphragm is pulled inward, pushing on the spring and closing the contacts.
The ESIM conducts test on the evaporative system as follows: An engine off, non-intrusive test for small leaks and an
engine running, intrusive test for medium/large leaks.
OPERATION
The ESIM (Evaporative System Integrity Monitor) is very similar to the earlier NVLD (Natural Vacuum Leak
Detection) system.
However, the design of the ESIM has been simplified and unlike the NVLD the ESIM does not require a solenoid. The
ESIM mounts directly to the canister, eliminating the need for a mounting bracket. It is critical that the ESIM is
mounted vertically. On vehicles where the canister is mounted on an angle, the ESIM requires an adaptor to maintain
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a vertical position.
More detailed information can be found at: http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/ESIM_EVAP.htm
Tip:135
Challenger Trunk Cargo Net Mod
Below is a method of attaching/installing a badly needed CARGO NET. I wanted to be able to stick a box or bags of
items in the trunk and not have them fly around OR COME on through the back seat (as they easily fold down if you
check).
The pictures at the link below are one of many ways I'm sure of doing this mod but I've not seen anyone attack the
problem yet, so here is one way I approached this. You have two sturdy stud mounts for the rear taillights (1/4"
coarse thread) with two rather large plastic retaining wing nuts. The other two for the taillight are behind the trunk
molding and are not readily accessible in case you have to change a taillight bulb.
So in looking at anchor points for a cargo net, these are the only viable points I can readily see to use.
I looked at the stock large plastic wing nut and I guess if you wanted, you could hang the net loops behind it and
screw the nut down on them but I didn't think that was a good method so I looked around.
I found a GM cargo net hook/nut and threaded it to fit the Challenger, but the unit is a tad too small to handle the
double loops of a good quality net so I made my own out of 304 stainless 1/8 in flat stock 1-1/8 in x 2-1/4 in and
made a 45 deg. bend in center.
Note the double recessed hook design to accommodate double loop netting. (see pictures at link below) You may get
ideas of your own here.
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/Challenger%20Cargo%20Net%20Mod.htm
Tip:136
The Custom UltraViolet SunShield
I have used several so far in looking at one that I feel is the best for my vehicle. I did not care if the price was 20
bucks or $50 bucks as I wanted the Best for my Challenger. It gets freaking hot as holy hell in my car and I can fry
bacon on my dashboard....
No wonder my FOBIK quit working when the interior gets 120+deg.F
Ok, here is what I found as a perfect fit, custom, folding and although a bit pricey, it is high quality and a good buy.
It will take about 2-3 weeks to get it, as they are custom made and are very high quality. And you will NOTICE that
the vehicle is much cooler, not "cold" but considerably cooler and your seat belt buckle won't give you 2nd degree
burns when you try to buckle up....
NOTE: I bought one of these for my 2009 Challenger R/T vehicle.
#97313 - Ultraviolet Heat Shield
2008-2009 Dodge Challenger - All Trim Levels
http://www.drivingcomfort.com/ultrav...eat-shield.cfm
Note:
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I noted that there is no part number for 2010 Challengers? I really do not know why as there are no interior
differences between the model years 2008-2009 to 2010. So if you have a 2010 and want one, order a 2009 part
number above and I would be extremely surprised if for some reason the windshield screen did not fit. I cannot see
why it would not fit as the windshield and dash are the same size(s).
Tip:137
Change your steering wheel badge!
For those of us who don't want the rams head, there is a nice little "upgrade" for some. Here's a site for 3-d decals
for various
applications including steering wheel badge. http://www.eu-decals.com/ with reasonable prices. They have both R/T
and SRT.
You have to remove the rams head, and if you pry it off, it can damage the area surrounding it so you will have to
unbolt it.
Installation
It's a bit involved, but not terrible.
First, remove the two bolts holding the airbag assembly/center cover to the wheel. If you look at the rear of the
wheel spokes, you
will see two tapered openings with a couple 10mm head bolts in them. Once you loosen those 2 bolts, the whole
airbag assembly will
be loose to pull out. Pull it out a SHORT DISTANCE. You will need to disconnect the horn wire at the top, and the two
firing connectors
to the airbag before pulling it out very far. There isn't a lot of wire there. Don't yank it loose!
Once the airbag and cover are completely loose, flip it face down and you'll notice the rubbery cover has a number of
square holes
inside the portion that attaches to the metal frame. Push in at the front of the cover while prying gently outwards at
the corresponding
point all the way around the cover until all the holes in the airbag cover are loose from the frame. The frame and
airbag can now be
removed from the cover and the airbag and frame set aside.
Look at the back of the cover. There are two circuit boards bonded to the inside of the cover.
This is different from the Charger/Magnum crowd -08 and down. Don't know about '09. You will be able to see the
attachments for
the emblem if you look in the space between the two circuit boards. There are three metal clips that hold the emblem
on. The one
that can be easily seen in the gap between those circuit boards is pretty simple to get loose using an angled pick tool.
The other two
are under one of the circuit boards. The boards with the horn contacts are clear plastic with the horn contacts and
circuits bonded
to them. Since they are clear, you'll be able to see the other two clips on the emblem, but they are difficult to get at.
There is enough space to reach behind the boards with a 90 degree pick tool and slowly work them off of the emblem.
Be careful
not to let the tool slip and nick up the horn circuit bonded to the board near the clips.
Some people have managed to just pull the emblem loose, but that leaves those 3 clips floating around inside the
cover where they
will eventually fall down and start to rattle. There is the possibility that these loose plastic clips will find their way
down into the turn
signal stalk switch contact assembly and cause the auto-cancel to no longer work correctly. It also makes it likely
that you will rip
or distort the cover.
Once the emblem is off, re-assemble the wheel completely. Get some rubbing alcohol and clean the area a couple
times where the
emblem was. Let dry and bond the new emblem in place.
Took about 15-20 minutes to do. So it is more about patience here.
Tip:138
Courtesy Light Wiring Information (Interior Lighting Mod)
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Courtesy Light Wiring (C204) Information;
For those installing footwell LED strip lights under the dash to illuminate the front floorboards.
This info would be useful to anyone who wants to tie into the cabin area courtesy light circuit.
This way your additional footwell lighting or LED strips will work along with the cabin area lighting control.
There is a connector behind the Passenger side "A" Pillar, and if you tap into the wire Yellow with White Stripe,
connector
terminal position #6, that will give you 12V (+) and connector terminal 12, Black with Green Stripe will give you
the Ground (-).
Here's a connector pin out below;
Tip:139
Manual 6-speed transmission drain and refill (TR6060)
From the Dodge Challenger Service Manual:
CAUTION:
Hypoid gear lube must not be used in this transmission. Use of hypoid gear lube will cause
hard shifting effort/transmission failure. Use only approved lubricant as noted below.
1. With vehicle transmission neutral, position vehicle on hoist or lift.
2. Remove belly pan to gain access to transmission area.
3. Remove drain plug located on the right side of the transmission tail housing.
4. Remove transmission fill plug located on the left side of the transmission case. Drain all oil.
5. Install drain plug into tail housing and tighten to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.).
6. Fill transmission with Mopar ® ATF + 4. The transmission is full when the fluid level is even
with the bottom of the fill hole.
Note: Capacity is approximately 4 qts but, to be safe buy 5. I would also recommend going to
Amsoil full synthetic fluid (used in Viper) or Redline D4. These have been known to "improve" shifting.
7. Install transmission fill plug (1) and tighten to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.).
8. Install belly pan.
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The Dodge manual says to change the fluid in the manual transmission every 24,000 miles
Tip:140
Manual Gear Shift Tip(s)
I had heard these before but it's actually mentioned in the Dodge Challenger's Owner's Manual.
Do not rest your hand on the gear shift as it can damage the synchronizers over time.
Resting your hand on the gearshift lever imparts an additional thrust load on the shift fork and
sleeve for whatever gear you happen to be in (most often it seems to be 4th) and accelerates
the wear between the two.
Another tip is not to leave your foot on the clutch even a bit as you drive, it's not a dead pedal
and it is either on or off (hydraulic assisted).
Failure to press the clutch pedal fully to the floor may cause increased shift efforts, and
may result in damage to the clutch and transmission.
Ref: 2010 Dodge Challenger Owner's Manual pg. 246 - Starting and Operating.
See also: Tip:60 SKIPSHIFT: Modification to eliminate 1-4 shifting (Manual).
Tip:141
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve on Dodge Challenger
Why use a Fumoto drain valve?
1. Reduces Oil Changing Time and Expense.
2. No adapter needed.
3. It screws in place of the oil plug.
4. Buy the hose - allows alternate drain path for those without large catch pans.
5. It's threaded to screw in correctly.
6. Won't touch anything -clears belly pan.
7. It's a simple easy to use piece, nothing difficult for typical installations.
8. F106N unit has the nipple fitting end. (attach hose if desired)
Fumoto Nipple Type Oil Drain Valve 'F-106N' (14mm-1.5)
Amazon.com $25.95:
More information on Valve and hose installation at the following;
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Link at: http://www.qwikvalve.com/F106N-14mm-1.5-w-nipple.html
Tip:142
Keyless Go Button (Tech Tip & Operation Info)
Read the following for Keyless Go Start operations, troubleshooting and programming tips.
CHALLENGER/KEYLESS GO BUTTON OPERATION AND POSSIBLE VEHICLE BATTERY DISCHARGE!
DISCUSSION:
If equipped, the Challenger is shipped with a Keyless GO Button in the vehicle’s glove box. This feature, if the
customer chooses to have it installed, will allow the driver to operate the ignition switch without the need to
physically install the FOBIK into the ignition switch. The GO Button is packaged in a plastic bag with an instruction
card. The instruction card explains how to operate the GO Button once it has been installed to the ignition switch.
The instruction card should be reviewed with the customer during vehicle delivery and then placed into the owner’s
manual for future reference. With the GO Button installed into the ignition switch and the FOBIK in the vehicle
interior, the GO Button (like the FOBIK it substitutes) will allow one or more of the following ignition switch modes.
With the brake pedal not depressed (foot off brake pedal) the following ignition switch modes can occur: accessory,
run, and off.
With the brake pedal depressed the following ignition switch modes can occur: start-run, and off.
NOTE:
INFORM THE CUSTOMER THE VEHICLE BATTERY IS DISCHARGING WHENEVER THE KEYLESS GO BUTTON
FEATURE IS IN EITHER THE “ACCESSORY” OR THE “RUN” MODE. THE “ACCESSORY” OR “RUN” MODE WILL
REMAIN ACTIVE UNTIL THE “OFF” MODE IS SELECTED OR UNTIL THE VEHICLE ENGINE IS STARTED.
IF THE DEALER OR VEHICLE OWNER FAILS TO ACTIVATE THE “OFF” MODE, AND EXITS/LEAVES THE VEHICLE WITH
THE FOBIK, THEN THE “ACCESSORY” OR “RUN” MODE WILL STILL BE ACTIVE AND MAY COMPLETELY DISCHARGE
THE VEHICLE BATTERY.
TO INSTALL THE KEYLESS GO BUTTON FOLLOW THESE STEPS:
1. Remove the GO Button package from the vehicle glove box.
2. Position the lettering on the GO Button so that it is horizontal and readable.
The GO Button has the words “ENGINE START / STOP” on the face of the button.
3. Gently insert the GO Button into the ignition switch receptacle by pressing on the center of the button.
4. If the button slips in easily, then it has been installed correctly.
5. Press firmly on the center of the GO Button to seat the button into the ignition switch receptacle.
The Keyless GO Button can be removed at any time. Remove the GO Button if the use of the FOBIK is desired to
operate
the ignition switch (instead of the GO Button).
TO REMOVE THE KEYLESS GO BUTTON FOLLOW THESE STEPS
1. The GO Button may be removed using the valet key from the FOBIK as a thin tool.
2. Insert the metal part of the valet key under the chrome bezel at the 6 o’clock position.
3. Gently pry the GO Button from the ignition switch.
THE KEYLESS GO BUTTON (ENGINE START / STOP) FUNCTIONS
With the driver’s foot OFF of the brake pedal, transmission selector in the PARK position and the FOBIK must be in
the passenger compartment of the vehicle:
1. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button once to activate the ACCESSORY mode which will allow operation of the
radio, wipers, and windows.
2. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a second time to activate the RUN mode which will allow the operation of
the heating/air conditioning (HVAC) controls, and Instrument Cluster.
3. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a third time to activate the OFF mode
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With the driver’s foot ON the brake pedal (brake pedal depressed), transmission selector in the PARK (or NEUTRAL)
position, and the FOBIK must be in the passenger compartment of the vehicle:
1. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button once to activate the START-RUN mode. The engine will start.
2. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a second time to activate the OFF mode. The engine will stop.
NORMAL STARTING:
To start the engine, the transmission must be in PARK or NEUTRAL, and the FOBIK must be in the passenger
compartment of the vehicle. Press and hold the brake pedal while pressing the ENGINE START/STOP button once. The
system (TIP START feature) takes over and attempts to start the vehicle engine.
If the vehicle engine fails to start, the starter will disengage automatically after ten (10) seconds.
If you wish to stop the cranking of the engine prior to the engine starting (within ten seconds) then press the ENGINE
START/STOP button again.
Programming and troubleshooting new FOBIK's, and WIN and PEM modules
Troubleshooting: One FOBIK works with the start button but my other FOBIK says "Key not detected" and will not
start the vehicle. It will however start the vehicle with the FOBIK used as a key directly into the WIN module.
If it starts with both FOBIK's in the slot (WIN) and is used as a standard key, but only starts with one using the push
button and "errors out" on the other I will would safely bet that one FOBIK is has a problem. Now, if this is a NEW
FOBIK that they (dealer tech) just "programmed" I would bet that they did not "associate" the new/non working
FOBIK with the PEM (Personal Entry Module).
If it "push button start" works with one FOBIK, then the PEM is usually good.
If you have both FOBIKS in the vehicle during testing, this can be confusing as to which one is bad or has a problem.
Use aluminum foil to completely wrap a FOBIK (transponder) to shield it from the low frequency signal detection of
the PEM module. This method can be used to independently test each FOBIK for proper operation.
Dealer tech programming:
There is one extra step on the Keyless Entry (push button start) cars that a lot of techs do not realize HAS got to be
done when replacing/programming FOBIK's.
After it is programmed to the WIN module, that same FOBIK ALSO has to be "associated" to the PEM as a separate
step by going into the PEM with the Scantool. Forgetting this will give "not found" errors when using the push
button and this FOBIK as it has not be "mated" to the PEM module.
NOTE: The Keyless Go (push button start) system actually can utilize 3 different antenna systems on two different
control modules (WIN and PEM) to "validate" a "start command" message to be sent via CANBUS to the PCM to
initiate an engine "start" sequence.
For a comprehensive listing of Dodge Challenger KeyLess Go Entry System "tips and tricks" click here.
Tip:143
How to Adjust When Auto HID Headlights turn on
Was fiddling around with my HID headlight adjustments because they were coming on too late (too dark) for my
preference.
This is for those who have the EVIC (Electronic Vehicle Information Center) option.
- Key ON. (Doesn't matter if the engine is running or not).
- Hold the compass and music note key on steering wheel together for about 5-6 seconds
- Move the up arrow (or down arrow if you prefer) on the left hand side of your steering wheel.
For this exercise, we'll be toggling the "up" arrow
- First stop is a Digital tach, if you're running your engine, you can see how steady it idles. Also some other digital
readings.
- Next toggle is temp and a cool Chinese character believe it or not. My son, who takes Mandarin lessons, informs me
it is the symbol for "peace".
It might mean "piece", but we're not sure.
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- Next toggle is compass digital readings
- Next toggle is MinL and MinR stuff. This is sensor information on left/right fuel tank levels.
The Lt and Rt unit number is in PINTS (8 pts = 1 gal.). The total fuel capacity is 19 gals.
- next toggle is now your headlight sensor adjustment page.
Note the following;
On the left hand side of your steering wheel, you can adjust the HID sensitivity (when it comes on automatically) in
units of 2.
You adjust with the arrow that points to the right on the left side of your steering wheel. I believe this is a lumens
unit but don't hold me to that.
The factory setting in the SRT's is 180. You can only scroll upward in units of 2 until you get to 220, then the next
number is 150.
From 150, keep scrolling the numbers higher until you hit 170. That setting works really well- the HID's will come on
sooner, but not too soon.
They'll turn on deep inside a car wash, but turn off automatically (of course) at the exit.
Note:
Thanks to internetguy for this personal information from his parameter setup.
Technical information on EVIC screen 6 to follow;
AutoHLSens - Number
Current value of the light sensor for the automatic headlight system (instantaneous).
Higher Number = Darker
TC - 2 Numbers
First number is a dampening (averaging) value, the higher the number, the more dampening occurs.
i.e. Higher the dampening value, the longer it will take for the lights to come on when it gets dark and longer it
will take for the lights to go off when it gets bright. So if you go through a lot of short tunnels and don't want
the lights to keep going on and off, increase this value.
Second number is the damped sensor value.
Thld - A number and up to 2 alphabets
Current threshold value. If damped sensor value exceeds this value, lights will come on.
If damped sensor value goes below this value, lights will go off.
A = Automatic Headlights On
H = SmartBeam Automatic High Beam System On
HBduty - Numerical Percentage
Shows the current intensity level of the SmartBeam system, 0% = off, 100% = full high beams.
Available Actions:
♪ Increases dampening value (max out then loop back to lowest value)
▸ Increases threshold value (max out then loop back to lowest value)
Tip:144
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Changing brake pads on BREMO brakes (SRT8)
Seems to be time for a lot of SRT owners to replace there brake pads so here's a little help to make it easy and pretty
much straight forward.
Here is a short 3 minute video and there is no sound, but is very easy to watch and understand the disassembly and
assembly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOyvGpIOCNw
These are not on a Dodge Challenger but they come off the exact same way, removing the calipers will depend on the
condition of the rotors.
Tip:145
USB power adapter/charger via Cigarette lighter plug
Description:
Use your cigar lighter outlet to charge any devices (iPhone, iPod, MP3 Players, Digital Cameras, PDAs, Mobile Phones
and more)
that can rely on USB for power. This adapter plugs into your car's cigarette lighter jack to become a powered USB
port.
elago Nano USB Car Charger
More at link: http://elagostore.com/elago-Nano-USB-Car-Charger-for/M/B002WH3QLE.htm
For special Billet covers to replace the generic +12V cover, go here: http://www.custombilletstore.com
/product_p/1029.htm
Tip:146
Rear End Service/Lubrication RT/SRT
All information on Rear End Service and Lubrication tips for the 215MM RII and G648 Rear Axle is at this LINK
HERE.
Tip:147
Automatic Transmission (NAG1) Cooling bypass valve
OPERATION
The air-to-oil transmission cooler system has a thermal bypass valve assembly that controls fluid flow through the
cooler.
When the transmission fluid is cold (less then operating temperature), the fluid is routed through the cooler bypass
valve without flowing through the transmission cooler. When the transmission fluid reaches operating temperatures
71°C (160°F) and above, the thermostat closes off the bypass and allowing fluid to flow through the transmission
cooler. The thermal bypass valve is serviced as an assembly.
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DESCRIPTION
The transmission thermal bypass valve is mounted on LH side of the
engine at the A/C compressor.
Tip:148
Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC)
DESCRIPTION
The Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) (2), sometimes referred to as the Airbag Control Module (ACM), is
secured with three screws to a stamped steel mounting bracket welded onto the top of the floor panel transmission
tunnel underneath the instrument panel center stack, beneath the center floor console in the passenger compartment
of the vehicle.
Concealed within a hollow in the center of the die cast aluminum ORC housing is the electronic circuitry of the ORC
which includes a microprocessor, an electronic impact sensor, an electronic safing sensor, and an energy
storage capacitor. A stamped metal cover plate is secured to the bottom of the ORC housing with four screws to
enclose and protect the internal electronic circuitry and components.
The ORC housing has integral mounting flanges in three locations. Two molded plastic electrical connectors (1 and 2,
referred to as C1 and C2 in the diagnostic and wiring information) exit the rearward facing side of the ORC housing.
These terminal pins connect the ORC to the vehicle electrical system through two connectors.
The impact sensor and safing sensor internal to the ORC are calibrated for the specific vehicle, and are only serviced
as a unit with the ORC. The ORC cannot be repaired or adjusted and, if damaged or faulty, it must be replaced.
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OPERATION
The microprocessor in the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) contains the supplemental restraint system logic
circuits and controls all of the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) components. The ORC uses On-Board
Diagnostics (OBD) and communicates with other electronic modules in the vehicle as well as with the diagnostic scan
tool using the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus. This method of communication is used for control of the
airbag indicator in the ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) and for SRS diagnosis and testing through the
16-way data link connector located on the driver side lower edge of the instrument panel.
The ORC microprocessor continuously monitors all of the SRS electrical circuits to determine the system readiness. If
the ORC detects a monitored system fault, it sets an active and stored Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) and sends
electronic messages to the EMIC over the CAN data bus to illuminate the airbag indicator. An active fault only
remains for the duration of the fault, or in some cases for the duration of the current ignition switch cycle, while a
stored fault causes a DTC to be stored in memory by the ORC. For some DTCs, if a fault does not recur for a number
of ignition cycles, the ORC automatically erases the stored DTC. For other internal faults, the stored DTC is latched
forever.
The ORC receives battery current through two circuits: a fused ignition switch output (run) circuit and a fused
ignition switch output (run-start) circuit. The ORC receives ground through a ground circuit of the instrument panel
wire harness. These connections allow the ORC to be operational whenever the ignition switch is in the START or ON
positions.
The ORC also contains an energy-storage capacitor. When the ignition switch is in the START or ON positions, this
capacitor is continually being charged with enough electrical energy to deploy the front supplemental restraint
components for up to one second following a battery disconnect or failure. The purpose of the capacitor is to provide
backup SRS protection in case there is a loss of battery current supply to the ORC during an impact.
Two sensors are contained within the ORC, an electronic impact sensor and a safing sensor. The ORC also monitors
inputs from two remote front impact sensors located on the back of the right and left vertical members of the radiator
support near the front of the vehicle. The electronic impact sensors are accelerometers that sense the rate of vehicle
deceleration, which provides verification of the direction and severity of an impact. On vehicles equipped with curtain
airbags, the ORC also monitors inputs from four additional remote impact sensors to control deployment of the
curtain airbags. Two are located on the left and right between the B and C-pillars, and two are located on the left and
right doors, underneath the door interior trim panels.
The safing sensor is an electronic accelerometer sensor within the ORC that provides an additional logic input to the
ORC microprocessor. The safing sensor verifies the need for a supplemental restraint deployment by detecting impact
energy of a lesser magnitude than that of the primary electronic impact sensors, and must exceed a safing threshold
in order for the airbags to deploy. Vehicles equipped with curtain airbags, feature a second safing sensor within the
ORC to provide confirmation to the ORC microprocessor of side impact forces. This second safing sensor is a
bi-directional unit that detects impact forces from either side of the vehicle.
Pre-programmed decision algorithms in the ORC microprocessor determine when the deceleration rate as signaled by
the impact sensors and the safing sensors indicate an impact that is severe enough to require SRS protection and,
based upon the severity of the monitored impact, determines the level of front airbag deployment force required for
each front seating position. When the programmed conditions are met, the ORC sends the proper electrical signals to
deploy the dual multistage front airbags at the programmed force levels, the front seat belt tensioners and, if either
curtain airbag. For vehicles equipped with the Occupant Classification System (OCS), the passenger airbag and seat
belt tensioner will be deployed by the ORC only if enabled by the Occupant Classification Module (OCM) messages
(passenger airbag disabled indicator off at the time of the impact.
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The most reliable, efficient, and accurate ways to diagnose the ORC, the CAN data bus, and the electronic message
inputs to and outputs from the ORC requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool and the appropriate diagnostic
information
Tip:149
International Control and Display Symbols (Chrysler/Dodge)
Chrysler LLC uses international symbols to identify various systems on the vehicle.
The graphic symbols illustrated are used to identify various instrument controls. The symbols correspond to the controls and displays that
are located on the instrument panel.
INTERNATIONAL SYMBOL MATRIX
SYMBOL
DESCRIPTION
SYMBOL
DESCRIPTION
1
High Beam
13
Rear Window Washer
2
Fog Lamps
14
Fuel
3
Headlamp, Parking Lamps, Panel
Lamps
15
Engine Coolant Temperature
4
Turn Warning
16
Battery Charging Condition
5
Hazard Warning
17
Engine Oil
6
Windshield Washer
18
Seat Belt
7
Windshield Wiper
19
Brake Failure
8
Windshield Wiper and Washer
20
Parking Brake
9
Wind screen Demisting and Defrosting
21
Front Hood
10
Ventilating Fan
22
Rear hood (Decklid)
11
Rear Window Defogger
23
Horn
12
Rear Window Wiper
24
Lighter
ENGINE COMPARTMENT
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The graphic symbols illustrated are used to identify engine compartment lubricant and fluid inspection and fill
locations.
The symbols correspond to the caps located within the engine compartment.
Tip:150
Door Panel Removal procedure
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.(Refer to 08 Electrical/8F - Engine Systems/Battery System - Standard
Procedure) .
2. Unsnap and fold back the screw cap behind the interior handle and remove the screw (1).
3. Unsnap and fold back the screw cap below the trim panel (2) pull handle to access and remove the screw (3).
4. Remove the screws (4) that secure the trim panel to the inside of the door.
5. Remove the push pins (1) that secure the trim panel (2) to the door.
6. Carefully pull the bottom of the trim panel out and pull up on the panel to remove the door lock.
7. Disconnect all cables and connectors.
8. Remove the trim panel from the vehicle.
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To re-install, do the reverse procedure.
Tip:151
Autostick mode turns off MDS.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonP
Yeah, this has nothing to do with low speeds on mine. I showed one of the dealer techs and two others I test drove
did it as well. If I am cruising along and give it some fuel you can actually feel it as though I am on and off the pedal.
The tach shows the same as the rpm's fluctuate. Probably MDS. I am going to turn it off this weekend and try it.
What you are feeling is the slight change when MDS kicks out as you increase load on the engine. You can feel this as
well when you have cruise control engaged and the vehicle starts a gradual climb up a hill. At which time the engine
torque load increases and then you will feel MDS kick off. If you have a free flowing aftermarket exhaust system, you
can also clearly hear the change in exhaust note at this time.
Turn MDS OFF during highway driving:
IF this is annoying, when you accelerate up to highway speed and level off, you can watch the Instrument cluster
lower right gauge where the indicator is for [D] and bump the shifter to the right for 1-2 seconds and you should see
[5] or bump left (-) and see it change to [5] or [4] if your engine RPM is in the right range, as the transmission is
anticipating and strong throttle request here as you may be shifting into a "passing gear" for acceleration purposes.
You will be in Autostick operations and MDS will no longer be enabled. You can easily change back to [D]rive
operation(s) by the procedure below.
Operation
Switching from Autostick to DRIVE can be done at any vehicle speed. To shift from DRIVE mode to Autostick mode,
move the shift lever to the left (-) once. The current gear will be maintained as the top gear. To disable Autostick,
simply press and hold the shift lever to the right (+) until [D] is displayed (about 2 sec.) in the instrument cluster
odometer.
Having a Diablo Predator tuning tool allows the user to edit the PCM's enable/disable parameter to set this option to
OFF all the time if desired.
Tip:152
Dual Engine Bay Lighting Mod
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Dual Engine Bay Lighting
using
Cadillac engine bay light fixtures with integrated on/off mercury switch
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Link to parts listing and mod description
Tip:153
Dodge Challenger TSB, RRT and Safety Recall List
For those viewing this, if you are not familiar with the terms TSB (Technical Service Bulletin), RRT (Rapid Response
Transmittal), or RCL (Safety Recall Notice), I would recommend that you refer to Tip:71 for a detailed explanation of
these terms.
Click the following link below to view the current TSB, RRT, Customer Satisfaction and Safety Recall
notices below;
Challenger TSB, RRT and Safety Recalls
For Dodge Challenger owners who want to have access to personal info about your specific vehicle by VIN number,
you can visit the Dodge Owners Page link below and sign up for service record info and specific notices about your
Challenger. Bookmark it for future reference!
Dodge Owners Center
Tip:154
Installing Wing Spoiler on Dodge Challenger
There may be a time when you are contemplating replacing the low profile style spoiler on your Challenger with an
older style (retro) wing type.
Below are the installation instructions on doing just that. Also of use, is the instructions on how to remove the center
taillight section from the deck lid if you ever need to do so. Here is the link to the Adobe PDF file for this;
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http://www.moparsupercenter.com/pdfs/82211606.pdf
Tip:155
Dyno and other speed/gear related software
TT Dyno
Dyno software that can turn data logs from automotive tuning tools into real Dyno graphs! So for those with Diablo
Predator or Trinity engine tuning tools, this is a good buy for turning those data logs into useful graphs.
If you have a handheld tuning tool or ECM/PCM data logger, you need this software to be able to truly evaluate
your mods!
Also, for those looking for a good application for gear ratio calculations, look here.
SE, R/T, SRT8 gear ratio calculation information
Here is a neat app called GearCalc which lets you punch in gear ratios, the final gear ratio, rpm limit, and tire size
and it will spit out all kinds of information.
You will need sources of information to do your own gear/engine RPM calculations so here is the list of links below;
Source of gear information:
Individual Gear Ratios: ALLPAR (Allpar.com)
Final Gear Ratio: DODGE (Dodge.com's) Build-a-car
(Note: Allpar.com says a 3.91 final gear ratio for the 6-speed, Dodge.com's build-a-car says 3.92 so use 3.92 ratio for
the 6-speed)
RPM Limit (redline): ALLPAR (Allpar.com)
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Tire Sizes: DODGE (Dodge.com build-a-car)
Tip:156
Battery Maintenance and short/Long term vehicle storage
There will come a time that you will need to store or won't be able to drive your Challenger for some extended period of
time. Since your Challenger has a continuous electrical demand (load) on your vehicle's battery, it will run it down in
approximately 4-6 weeks. The length of time will vary dependent on ambient temperature and the overall condition of the
battery. Having said all this, it will be necessary to keep the battery charged up to peak performance for it to work properly
and so that you will get the full rated life of the battery.
Since I have several vehicles that I do not drive on a regular basis, I found that using a device called a battery tender does
the job nicely. I have been using a small device called a "Battery Tender Jr.", as it is small and has a large enough power
rating to keep the battery charged up to peak performance. I use the cigarette lighter style power plug and route the wire out
of the driver door (rear bottom) as the door seal is large enough to not pinch the wire when closing it.
In the case of the new model Challenger, you will need to use the power port in the center console to plug the tender into.
The center power port is connected directly to the battery and not "switched" like the one on the lower dash console below
the radio. You do not want to use that one.
What is also good about this device is that it will "monitor" the battery condition and go into a charge, float or absorption
mode and keep the battery happy during its idle time. The unit has a multicolor LED to indicate its status and is easy to see.
There are several vendors for the Battery Tender Jr. units and accessories. Amazon.com and eBay are two popular ones.
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Here are the electrical spec's for this unit above.
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
You want to be sure to also order or purchase this accessory below
Cigarette Lighter or power port adapter.
So in short, when I am ready to drive an idle vehicle, I simply open the door, unplug the charge plug and hang it up
on a hook nearby and get in and drive the vehicle away with a fully charged and happy battery. Upon return from a
drive, I plug the adapter plug into the cigarette lighter port and close the door and the unit monitors the battery and
does what it needs to keep the battery happy.
Tip:157
Removal of CHMSL (center high mounted stop Light) or 3rd brake light.
Q: How do you remove the high mount brake light in the rear window?
I have a decal of the Challenger wording that I'd like to put on the rear window. In pulled the headliner down and
looking up there I couldn't really see any bolts (maybe a grounding bolt though). I went to my dealer but got the run
around with them quoting something about "not being able to tell me due to safety concerns" (and an offer to install
the decal for $50!!). I just don't want to pull it down and break it!
A: It's fairly easy to remove. It is held in place via snap in clips.
The CHMSL or CENTER HIGH MOUNTED STOP LAMP is held in place with push in clips mounted to the underside of
the light housing.
First you need to pull down on the black cover that's on the headliner, as it has its own push in clips mounted on the
underside. Simply pull down and the clips will pop out. Then all you need to do is grab the housing that extends over
the window and pull down. Now the clips will pop out and the light housing will come down. There are no special tools
needed or required for this.
Tip:158
FilterMag, Trans Pan Mag and Magnetic Oil Plug systems
In looking at ways to significantly enhance the oil system filtering capabilities, I elected to add new extremely high
power Neodymium type magnets to my oil plug, oil filter and transmission pan components. This is not exactly "new"
technology and magnetic recovery systems are used in aircraft engines and those engines that require a high level of
filtration in order to keep metallic debris out of oil recirculation or hydraulic fluid systems.
So, why not add this technology to your new vehicle! Take for example the FilterMag unit with 300 lbs of
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magnetic force on the engine oil passing through the oil filter!
Q: How is this good for my Challenger engine and transmission?
A: Well it is most important in the early mileage of your vehicle as this is when the engine and transmission are
wearing in and most of the metallic shed particles are going to be produced and be suspended in the oil or
transmission fluids. Trapping these early on removes unwanted metallic particles from the circulating oil or hydraulic
fluids that can lead to premature engine wear and other possible problems. Placing these components on high
mileage vehicles is obviously much less effective. But, removing metallic contaminants in lubricating oil or hydraulic
fluids is always a good idea!
So in short, I have installed a Gold Plug magnetic oil plug, FilterMag SS-375 Filter Magnet and a TM180
transmission pan magnet on my new vehicle. These units in conjunction with the AmSOIL filter technology will
produce an extremely high efficiency oil filtration system. As metallic particles are captured in the oil filter, and
when removed and thrown away, any "metallic contaminants" are removed as well.
Here below are the links and technical information on the Neodymium magnet technology components that I used on
my new Challenger.
Magnetic oil plug & FilterMag for complete metal debris protection
5.7L = AP-02
AP-02 Magnetic Drain Plug
6.1L = AP-02
$ 8.99
http://www.magneticdrainplug.com/Automotive_Drain_Plugs/AP02.html
FilterMag.com FilterMag oil filter units
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PRODUCT LINK
VIDEO LINK
SS375
Filter size range: 3.50"-3.80"
300 LBS OF MAGNETIC PULL FORCE
Note: Both 5.7L and 6.1L use same FilterMag units
AUTO Transmission Pan Magnet!
TM Series Pan Magnets
Suitable for all vehicles with a steel oil pan TM360 and TM180
The FilterMAG™ Transmission Magnet (TM360 & TM180) are designed to magnetically attract and hold the millions of
steel particles that are circulating in your transmission oil. Unless stopped these particles will damage the delicate
parts in your transmission.
Snap either the large TM360 or the smaller TM180 on to the bottom of your steel transmission pan. Either one will
immediately begin cleaning your transmission oil without restricting oil flow. So very simple!, So Effective!!
Specifications
TM360
Filter size range: 3.1875” x 2.9375”
Magnetic Pull Force – 50 lbs.
TM180
Magnetic Pull Force – 25 lbs.
Tip:159
EFI: Mass Flow vs. Speed Density (Fuel/Air Management)
The following write-up will help understand what "Speed Density" means when referring to Dodge
Challenger PCM fuel table calibrations.
Once upon a time an engine needed three things to run: fuel, air, and fire. That's what carb's, coils, and distributors
are for. Modern EFI engines still need these three elements, but they use different hardware to provide them, and a
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computer to run the whole process.
Today's electronic engine management systems can process millions of instructions per second to continuously adjust
spark and fuel for optimum performance. The computer regulates the electronic fuel-injector pulse width (the time
that the fuel injector is open) and ignition lead with input from various sensors. One of the key things the computer
needs to know is how much air the engine consumes under a given set of conditions. Three different measurement
strategies have evolved to supply the computer with this basic information; in order of sophistication they are:
N Alpha, Speed Density, and Mass AIR (Flow) metering.
Speed Density
Speed Density systems accept input from sensors that measure engine speed (in rpm) and load (manifold vacuum in
kPa), then the computer calculates airflow requirements by referring to a much larger (in comparison to an N Alpha
system) preprogrammed lookup table, a map of thousands of values that equates to the engine's volumetric efficiency
(VE) under varying conditions of throttle position and engine speed. Engine rpm is provided via a tach signal, while
vacuum is transmitted via an intake manifold-mounted Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor. Since air density changes
with air temperature, an intake manifold-mounted sensor is also used.
Production-based Speed Density computers also utilize an oxygen (O2) sensor mounted in the exhaust tract. The
computer looks at the air/fuel ratio from the O2 sensor and corrects the fuel delivery for any errors. This helps
compensate for wear and tear and production variables. Other sensors on a typical Speed Density system usually
include an idle-air control motor to help regulate idle speed, a throttle-position sensor that transmits the percentage
of throttle opening, a coolant-temperature sensor, and a knock sensor as a final fail-safe that hears detonation so the
computer can retard timing as needed.
GM's Tuned Port Injection (TPI) set-ups used Speed Density metering from 90-92, as did 91-93 LT1 engines. All
86-87 and 88 non-California Ford 5.0L-HO engines used Speed Density metering.
Most MOPAR fuel-injection systems have used Speed Density too.
Because a Speed Density system still has no sensors that directly measure engine airflow, all the fuel mapping
points must be preprogrammed, so any significant change to the engine that alters its VE requires reprogramming
the ECM/PCM (computer).
Mass AIR Flow
By contrast, Mass Air Flow (MAF) systems use a sensor mounted in front of the throttle body that directly measures
the amount of air inducted into the engine. The most common type of mass-flow sensor is the hot wire design: Air
flows past a heated wire that's part of a circuit that measures electrical current. Current flowing through the wire
heats it to a temperature that is always held above the inlet air temperature by a fixed amount. Air flowing across
the wire draws away some of the heat, so an increase in current flow is required to maintain its fixed temperature.
The amount of current needed to heat the wire is proportional to the mass of air flowing across the wire. The
mass-air meter also includes a temperature sensor that provides a correction for intake air temperature so the output
signal is not affected by it.
The MAF sensor's circuitry converts the current reading into a voltage signal for the computer, which in turn equates
the voltage value to mass flow. Typical MAF systems also use additional sensors similar to those found in Speed
Density systems. Once the electronic control module (ECM) knows the amount of air entering the engine, it looks at
these other sensors to determine the engine's current state of operation (idle, acceleration, cruise, deceleration,
operating temperature, and so on), then refers to an electronic map to find the appropriate air/fuel ratio and select
the fuel-injector pulse width required to match the input signals.
GM used MAF sensors on the turbo Buick V-6 Grand National, 85-89 TPI, 94-98 LT1, 96 LT4, and all LS1 engines.
Ford has used MAF metering on 88 California 5.0L engines and all 89-and-later V-8 engines.
MAF systems are much more flexible in their ability to compensate for engine changes since they actually measure
airflow instead of computing it based on preprogrammed assumptions. They are self-compensating for most
reasonable upgrades, as well as extremely accurate under low-speed, part-throttle operation. On the other hand, the
MAF meter, mounted as it is ahead of the throttle-body, can become an airflow restriction on high-horsepower
engines. On non-stock engine retrofits or EFI conversions on engines never produced with fuel injection, it may be
hard to package an MAF meter within the confines of the engine bay and available intake manifolding.
Which Is Best?
In a perfect world, virtually all street-performance engines would use Mass Air, due to its superior accuracy and
greater tolerance for engine changes. In the past there was a problem on high-horsepower engines because largercapacity MAF sensors were scarce and prohibitively expensive. Nowadays, oversize MAF sensors are available from
Pro-M, Granatelli Racing, and other sources that are compatible with Ford engines and computers. Custom MAF
calibration keyed to the specific vehicle, engine, and injector size is also available. With a correctly calibrated
oversize meter, re-flashing the Ford computer usually isn't required. (However, before you run out for a larger Ford
MAF meter, Fast Track Performance points out that the first limiting factors are the puny Ford 19 lb/hr injectors,
which can only support about 320 hp.)
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Some oversize MAF meters have also become available for the second-generation (94-and-later) GM MAF systems,
but the selection isn't as broad as for the Ford guys. The GM MAF engine management computer isn't as adaptable as
Ford's. Although it will accept larger MAFs, you can't go up and down more than one injector size with re-flashing the
computer.
Bigger MAF meters are not readily available for old GM TPI systems, but Granatelli says it is possible to adapt Ford
meters to them via a conversion wiring harness. Custom calibration is required, so Granatelli prefers to do the
changeover in-house.
For radical engines or engines never produced with fuel injection, an aftermarket user-programmable computer
system is usually preferred. Unfortunately, the more-or-less affordable aftermarket system's including ACCEL/ DFI,
Speed-Pro, and Holley are Speed Density based and don't support Mass Air metering. Those systems that do
including Electromotive, Motec, and Pectel units are more costly, sometimes considerably so. However, Westech
Performance reports that it is possible to use Pro-M's adjustable Optimizer MAF meter and a stock Ford Mustang
computer with Ford's EPEC piggyback programmable unit to run Mass Air on any engine.
If it is not practical to use MAF on your engine due to packaging or hardware constraints, the programmable Speed
Density systems are the next best choice because production-based Speed Density systems won't tolerate major
engine changes without computer reprogramming, which usually requires the services of an outside specialist; if the
re-programmer isn't specifically familiar with your combo, the end results may be less than satisfactory.
On radical engines (those with cam duration over 240 degrees at 0.050 or less than 10 inches of idle vacuum), even
user-programmable Speed Density systems have difficulty due to an erratic or insufficient manifold vacuum signal. If
the application is for a race car operated primarily under full throttle, N Alpha is the solution. If you intend to drive
on the street, a system that blends N Alpha with Speed Density varying which is in control per specific operating point
and conditions may be the answer. The higher-end aftermarket systems, including Electromotive's, support this
option.
As electronic engine-management system usage becomes more widespread in the car crafting community, prices and
ease of use should become more user-friendly. Already, the latest Gen VII ACCEL/DFI system has the ability to
construct its own baseline fuel curve, and the new user programming interface is a full-fledged, Windows-compatible
program.
Tip:160
Rams Head front hood badge removal and replacement
The Ram's Head nose badge that Dodge installs on the Challenger from the factory just does not fit the vehicle. I've
done my best to eliminate all those Ram Heads from my Challenger, replacing them with something more suited. The
stock 18 in wheels' Ram's Heads were replaced by me when I bought "R/T" engraved wheel covers to replace the
stock rams head logo's. Now I've replaced the nose badge with a very nice anodized aluminum piece from Billet
Technology.
These folks have a great variety of different badges and can even do a custom unit for you.
For this modification you'll need:
(1.) Billet Technology Nose Badge
(2.) Plastic Dash Pry Tools
(3.) Painter's Tape
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(4.) Rubbing Alcohol
(5.) Paper Towel
To Start:
Use Painters tape and place a tape barrier about 4 inches wide a full 360 deg. around the emblem to protect the paint
from any tool slips. Bring the tape right up to the edge of the emblem.
The stock Ram's Head badge is actually (2) pieces. The Ram's Head itself is snapped into the back crest base or
frame. Using the plastic pry tool, There are two plastic tabs at the top behind the Ram's "horns", so using the pry
tool, pry up on the edges behind the horns and you will see it start to come up. Pushing the clips in will release the
Ram's Head section. Now you will see the bottom emblem frame. There are two more tabs at the lower front edges
and you will need to pry up on these lower from edges and you will see the tab attachments. Pushing in on the tabs
or forcefully prying up will release them.
Then clean the area with rubbing alcohol to get a good clean surface for the new emblem to attach. Note the very
strong 3M sticky tape that is used, so position the emblem correctly above the area and then slowly press the new
emblem into place.
The install is a piece of cake and the new nose badge attaches with a very strong double sided tape.
Here is a link below to a quick video showing how it's done.
http://www.speedysgarage.net/challengerweb/challenger_mods/challenger_bt_nose_badge
/challenger_bt_nose_badge.htm
Tip:161
Moldy looking Dash in cold weather?!
What? Your new dash getting "moldy" looking?
Q: Not sure if you've come across this. I'm storing my Challenger for the winter and I've just noticed a white film
forming on the complete dash pad.
I have seen it on others also. I read that it is from chemical release action. What's the recommended cleaning
procedure, just damp cloth?
Thanks again for any help. -JimA: Yes, what you are seeing has been observed on a large number of new Challengers. This can be unsettling to say
the least if your vehicle has been stored for awhile and it has been getting into the low temperatures (<38 deg.F) and
you throw open your door and see a horrible sight on your dash area like what is shown in the pictures above. This
apparently is a chemical breakdown and release of a release agent applied to the synthetic rubber type material
during injection mold processing at manufacture and this will need to be cleaned off.
Yes, you are correct in that cold weather really brings out (accelerates release) the "moldy" looking mess on the
composite rubber type dash and it can be cleaned up with lukewarm "mild soapy water" and dry it off well.
You can also use Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner and then Meguiars Interior Detailer to clean and protect and put
a light coat of this on the dash, and it should be fine.
Mequiars Interior Detailer is available on Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Interior-DetailerCleaner-16-oz/dp/B000AMLWH8
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For those who want to use ONLY Mopar products for this;
Use Mopar Total Clean part # 04897840ab to clean the dash & then part # 05175051aa to seal it.
Note:
Warning: Do NOT use anything whatsoever like popular Armor All, as you will only compound the original problem.
Tip:162
FOBIK and PEM Radio Frequencies
The main role of the Passive Entry Module (PEM) system as it relates to the passive entry (PE) Keyless Go (KG)
feature is to own the PE portion of the feature when equipped.
In vehicles that don't have PE, the PEM is still required for the KG (Keyless Go) system. When the KG button is
pushed, the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN) queries the PEM for FOBIK authentication. When a stored FOBIK(s) is found
inside the vehicle, the PEM will send a valid response back to the WIN.
The PEM is located behind the glove box
Keyless Go
When the Keyless Go (KG) button is pressed on the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN), and the WIN requires
authentication, the WIN sends a CAN message carrying a 64 bit challenge value from the WIN to the Passive Entry
Module (PEM).
The PEM determines the location of authenticated FOBIK(s) presently available by transmitting on 20 KHz LF and
listening on 433 MHZ UHF for the FOBIK(s). The PEM sends the 64 bit challenge value sent on CAN BUS from the
WIN on LF to an authenticated FOBIK located inside the vehicle.
The FOBIK manipulates the value and returns a 64 bit response to the PEM on 433 MHz UHF. The PEM uses this value
to return a result to the WIN on CAN BUS. If a valid 64 bit response value is returned, the PEM passes the response
value to the WIN so that it can complete the secure handshake. If no FOBIK response, invalid FOBIK response or no
FOBIK is available inside the vehicle, the PEM responds with a message with a value that is not a valid response
value, so that the WIN always gets a response to the challenge and can act accordingly.
If the WIN determines that the response value is valid, then the WIN knows there is a valid FOBIK in the interior of
the vehicle and proceeds with the synthesized ignition position logic.
The WIN should always receive a PEM response to the WIN challenge. If the WIN receives a response that is not
successful, the WIN shall generate a new challenge and start the
process over by sending again. The WIN shall retry the process twice. If after three attempts at challenging the
FOBIK(s) a successful response is not obtained, the WIN sends the message that commands the EVIC to display the
message "FOB NOT DETECTED" on the EVIC display.
OPERATION (START/STOP BUTTON)
Each time the START/STOP button is pressed, a signal is transmitted from the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN) over the
Controlled Area Network (CAN) data bus to the Passive Entry Module (PEM), where the signal is then wirelessly
transmitted to the FOB with Integrated Key (FOBIK). The signal is then sent back through the PEM over the CAN data
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bus and back to the WIN for authentication and location. After a valid FOBIK is detected inside the vehicle the
ignition state can be changed.
The ignition system for the Keyless Go (KG)feature has three states, similar to a conventional ignition system. These
ignition states are OFF, ACCESSORY, and ON. Each time the START/STOP button is pressed and released the ignition
state changes to the next ignition state as follows, from OFF to ACCESSORY, from ACCESSORY to ON, and from ON
back to OFF.
To start the engine, the transmission must be in park or neutral. From any ignition state, press the brake pedal and
press and release the START/STOP button and the engine attempts to start. The starter will continues to crank until
the engine starts. If the engine fails to start, the starter will disengages automatically in 10 seconds. If you wish to
stop the cranking of the engine before the engine starts, press and release the START/STOP button again.
To shut off the engine while the transmission is in PARK press and release the START/STOP button and the engine
shuts off. To shut off the engine while the transmission is out of PARK you must press and hold the START STOP
button. The ignition state will be changes to the ACCESSORY state if the transmission is not in PARK and to the OFF
state if the transmission is in PARK motion.
POWER LOCKS
The power lock system allows all of the doors and liftgate to be locked or unlocked electrically by operating a switch
on either front door trim panel. The power lock system receives a non-switched battery current through a fuse in the
Junction Block (JB), so that the power locks remain operational, regardless of the ignition switch position.
The instrument cluster locks the doors automatically when the vehicle speed exceeds 25.7 Km/h (15 mph), all doors
are closed and the accelerator pedal is pressed. The rolling door lock feature can be disabled through the EVIC.
This vehicle also offers several customer programmable features, which allows the selection of several optional
electronic features to suit individual preferences.
The power lock system for this vehicle can also be operated remotely using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE)
transmitters.
CENTRAL LOCKING/UNLOCKING
The central locking system controls powered operation of the door, liftgate locks and the illuminated entry system.
Central locking includes the following features:
Automatic locking of the doors and liftgate when the vehicle speed exceeds approximately 25 km/h (15 mph).
Locking prevention with a door lock switch or the RKE transmitter, if the key is in the ignition switch and the
driver's door is open.
Driver selectable unlocking mode: Unlocks only the driver's door or all doors and the liftgate, with one press
of the RKE transmitter unlock button.
The driver's door cylinder can also be used to unlock the door. One turn of the cylinder will unlocks the
driver's door, two turns within five seconds unlocks all doors.
Automatic illumination of the interior courtesy lamps when the vehicle is unlocked.
Locking all doors and the liftgate by pressing the lock button on the RKE transmitter, or by pressing a lock
switch on one of the front doors.
DOOR LOCK MOTORS
The lock mechanisms are actuated by a reversible electric motor mounted within each door. The power lock motors
are integral to the door latch units. The power lock motors cannot be adjusted or repaired. If inoperative or damaged,
the door latch unit must be replaced.
REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY
The Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) system locks and unlocks the doors and liftgate, turns on the interior lamps, and
arms and disarms the Vehicle Theft Security System (if equipped). The RKE system operates on non-switched battery
current through a fuse in the Integrated Power Module (IPM), so that the system remains operational regardless of
the ignition switch position.
The RKE transmitters are also equipped with a Panic button. If the Panic button on the RKE transmitter is pressed,
the horn will sounds and the exterior lights flashes on the vehicle for about three minutes or until the Panic button is
pressed a second time. A vehicle speed of approximately 25.7 kilometers-per-hour (15 miles-per-hour) also cancels
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the panic event.
The RKE system can also perform other functions on this vehicle. If the vehicle is equipped with the optional Vehicle
Theft Security System (VTSS), the RKE transmitter arms the VTSS when the Lock button is pressed and disarm the
VTSS when the Unlock button is pressed.
The RKE system includes two transmitters when the vehicle is shipped from the factory, but the system can retain the
vehicle access codes of up to a total of eight transmitters. The transmitter codes are retained in the RKE module
memory, even if the battery disconnects. If an RKE transmitter is faulty or lost, new transmitter vehicle access codes
can be programmed into the system using a scan tool.
This vehicle also offers several customer programmable features, which allows the selection of several optional
electronic features to suit individual preferences. Customer programmable feature options affecting the RKE system
include:
* Remote Unlock Sequence - Allows the option of having only the driver side front door unlock when the RKE
transmitter Unlock button is pressed the first time. The remaining doors unlock when the button is pressed a
second time within five seconds of the first unlock press. Another option is having all doors and liftgate unlock
upon the first pressing of the RKE transmitter Unlock button.
* Sound Horn on Lock - Allows the option of having the horn sound a short chirp as an audible verification that
the RKE system received a valid Lock request from the RKE transmitter or having no audible verification.
* Flash Lights with Lock and Unlock - Allows the option of having the park lamps flash as an optical
verification that the RKE system received a valid Lock request or Unlock request from the RKE transmitter or
having no optical verification.
* Programming Additional Transmitters - Allows up to a total of eight transmitter vehicle access codes to be
stored in the receiver memory.
Certain functions and features of the RKE system rely upon resources shared with other electronic modules in the
vehicle over the CAN data bus network.
For diagnosis of these electronic modules or of the data bus network, the use of a scan tool and the appropriate
diagnostic information are required.
REMOTE START SYSTEM
OPERATION
The remote start antenna is located on the passenger side above and to the left of glove box.
The antenna interfaces with the Wireless Ignition Module (WIN) through a coaxial electrical cable and electrical
connector.
The antenna helps to amplify the signal for the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) key fob.
Remote Start Operating Conditions
In order to operate remote start, the following conditions must be met:
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
Key fob sequence must be operated within a 100 meter range of the vehicle.
The vehicle must be in Park.
Key is not in the ignition.
The hazard switch off.
Vehicle Theft Alarm or Panic is not alarming.
Doors and hood must be closed.
The battery voltage is normal (11 to 15 volts).
Remote Start Shut Down/Deactivate Conditions
Engine will NOT start or will shut down/deactivate during any of the following conditions:
* Key in Ignition.
* Doors or hood are opened before remote unlock.
* Hazard Switch depressed.
* Panic or theft alarm active.
* Brake applied.
* A prior remote start cranked the engine , but failed to start the engine.
* Battery voltage NOT in the normal range.
* High (run away) or Low Idle (stall) RPM.
* MIL Active.
* High Engine Coolant Temperature.
* Low Engine Oil Pressure.
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Initiate Remote Start
To Remote Start the vehicle:
1. Press remote button on the Key Fob twice within 5 seconds.
NOTE: Engine will run for 15 minutes after a remote start is initiated. After 15 minutes, the engine will
shut off.
The system allows for only two sequential remote starts without a key ignition cycle.
2. Unlock vehicle with Key Fob to enter the vehicle.
3. Put key in ignition, turn key to run position to exit remote start and enter a normal start without engine shut off.
Identification that Remote Start is Activated
To identify that Remote Start has been activated the following will occur:
Horn will sound and lights will flash to acknowledge a start command was received.
Park Lamps will turn on to indicate that the engine is running in remote start mode.
Terminate Remote Start
To terminate Remote Start, press Remote Start button on the Key Fob once.
NOTE: In order to avoid inadvertent shut downs, the one-time press to shut down the vehicle
will be disabled for two seconds after receipt of a valid remote start request.
Tip:163
Dodge Challenger OEM touch up paint(s)
You will eventually need to do some paint touch up at some time or another on your Challenger and you will need
OEM paint to match up the color.
Below is a link with easy ordering to get a touch up pen/stick or small spray can to do underhood or trunk lid paint
repair. If you are good at body work and need to fix a scratch or small dent, you may only need a small amount of
correct body color and clear coat for this.
http://www.autotrucktoys.com/dodge-challenger/Dodge-Challenger-Touch-Up-Paint-CAT5628.aspx
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or
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/choosecolor/choosecolor.aspx?year=2009&make=Dodge&
model=Challenger
Tip:164
Emergency or Valet key use and VTSS
The emergency key allows for entry into the vehicle should the battery in the vehicle or the Key Fob go dead.
The emergency key is also for locking the glove box. You can keep the emergency key with you when valet
parking.
NOTE:
Entering a vehicle using the emergency key with the theft alarm armed, will result in the alarm sounding.
Insert the Key Fob (even if the Key Fob battery is dead) into the ignition switch to disarm theft alarm.
To remove the emergency key, slide the mechanical latch at the top of the Key Fob sideways with your thumb
and then pull the key out with your other hand.
NOTE:
You can insert the double-sided emergency key into the lock cylinders with either side up.
NOTE:
• The driver’s door key cylinder and the trunk button on the RKE transmitter cannot arm or disarm the Vehicle
Security Alarm.
• The Vehicle Security Alarm remains armed during trunk entry. Pressing the TRUNK button will not disarm the
Vehicle Security Alarm. If someone enters the vehicle through the trunk, and opens any door, the alarm will sound.
• When the Vehicle Security Alarm is armed, the interior power door lock switches will not unlock the doors.
Tip:165
PDC - Ignition Off Draw Fuse and usage
Short Term battery load reduction.
Dodge has a feature to all the dealer (and owners) to greatly reduce the "ignition off power draw" in the Challenger.
If you are going to be going out of town or away for a period of time (factory recommends <=31 days) and you want
to ensure that the battery does not run down in the process, you can release the IOD fuse located in the trunk at the
PDC or Rear Power Distribution Center.
Look at the picture and explanation below to best utilize this electrical feature.
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Ignition Off Draw Fuse
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This is called the IOD or "Ignition Off Draw" fuse. It is used during assembly line work, and when vehicles are in
storage on dealer lots to prevent battery going dead.
It is recommended if vehicle sits unused for a period of time, say for more than 10 days or so, that you pull it to shut
off parasitic drain to the battery. The down side is you will lose radio presets, but it will protect charge in the battery.
All you have to do is press black clips to raise fuse out of holder, do not attempt to completely remove it.
It's in the PDC (Power Distribution Center) block in the trunk. Pop the cover, and it's the big fuse (60 A) at the top
- right beside where the positive lead come in.
There are two small, black tabs along the edge of it. Push down on those, and the fuse pops up. Don't remove it
though..just pop it up.....Your trunk light will go out, as well as your interior lights (along with compass reading, etc.).
Test by opening door and verify interior lights do not come on to see if it is pulled properly. To restore vehicle
electrical operations, just simply press it back into place.
This is primarily used during assembly and transportation, when some storage is incurred to keep the parasitic drain
to a minimum.
The following systems are affected with this 60A fuse is removed from the battery supply circuit.
Sub Fuses #14 (10A), #36 (20A), #38 (10A) and #44 (20A) will have no 12VDC supplied to them.
Systems directly affected by this are;
1. Instrument Cluster
2. Module, A/C, Heater front.
3. Radio
4. Radio Power Amplifier
5. Cargo Lamp (trunk)
6. TIPM (Total Integrated Power Supply)
a. ODBII Diagnostics port (CAN BUS D)
b. Radiator Fan controls, High, Low Fan
c. Wiper blade control
d. Relay, Auto Shutdown
e. Relay Run/Start
f. PCM (Power Train Control Module)
g. Any and ALL other "control power" for accessory items powered by TIPM, example HORN, Fog Lights.
7. Navigation System
8. Hands Free Module
9. Homelink System (Module, Electronics, overhead)
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10. Motor, Module, Sunroof
Note: When the vehicle CAN BUS is "inactive" all accessory and vehicle control modules will go into sleep (low power)
mode.
In short, the IOD fuse and its usage is determined by the actual need for reduction of short term parasitic battery
drain. Depending on ambient temperature, battery charge and electrolyte condition and long term battery storage
characteristics of your particular battery, you should evaluate your reasoning and timing for any short term usage.
If you are going to have the vehicle stored for > 31 days, the factory says in its advisory to disconnect the NEG
battery lead to completely isolate the battery. This will remove all power and doubt about any parasitic battery drain,
but note some details here. Hence, the dividing line between long term and short term usage is recommended at 31
days.
Ok, so you do this (disconnect battery) and once you close the trunk lid, you cannot get back into the vehicle again
as your doors are locked and the trunk has no keyhole for valet key and the FOBIK is no longer functional. So you
are forced to use the Emergency Key (Valet) and either crawl back through the back seat and pull the emergency
release inside the trunk rear decklid to open it, or think ahead and tie a piece of strong cord to the handle inside and
have it threaded out the side so you can pull it. Or you can open the hood and place a battery charger on the TIPM
power posts and power up the trunk actuator so you can enter. Even the use of a "Settings Saver" on the power port
in the center console may be a quick way to get back inside the trunk.
Either way, realize the issues here with complete battery disconnection.
Here is what "limited comment" the Dodge Challenger's owner's manual states about this IOD fuse;
noFUSE
If the vehicle diagnostic system determines that the Ignition Off Draw (IOD) fuse is improperly
installed, or damaged, a “noFUSE” message will display in the odometer display area. For further
information on fuses and fuse locations refer to “Fuses” in “Maintaining Your Vehicle”.
Q: If I use the IOD fuse and I don't place it back into its holder on day 32 or 33 will my battery be dead then?
A: I would say no, but again the long term use is subject totally to your specific battery condition, size, ambient
temperatures and other battery charge affecting variables.
I personally would not recommend using the IOD fuse for no more than 5-6 weeks tops.
My recommendation would be to use a "Battery Tender Jr." on your vehicle and thus not even worry about battery
condition or charge, as this device will monitor and keep the battery in peak charge condition while the vehicle is idle
(not being driven). These cars draw about 30-40 mA from the battery when dormant (depending on model and
option packages) which will drain your battery in 60-90 days. If you have any aftermarket add on electronics, the
draw may be much greater and the discharge much faster as well.
You can click this Tip:156 for the Battery Tender Jr. information tip.
But if you have no AC power to your storage location, the only option is to use the IOD Fuse or disconnect the battery
depending on the actual length of time required for storage.
Tip:166
Fuel System, Fuel Pump Module
FUEL PUMP MODULE
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DESCRIPTION
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This vehicle uses a saddle type tank that has a reservoir on both sides of the rear drive shaft. The fuel pump is in
the module on the
left side of the vehicle (2) and the fuel pressure regulator is in the module on the right side of vehicle (1). The fuel
outlet is on the
right side and supplies fuel to the engine. The fitting on the fuel pump module (left side) is a vapor line fitting that
connects to the right side module.
Both modules have fuel level sending cards. There are 2 hoses that connect the modules together, one is the fuel
supply line the other is a return or siphon hose. The lines are removed from the fuel pump module when servicing
either unit. The ORVR (Onboard Refueling Vapor Recovery) control valve is in the right side module.
Left side fuel module with electrical connector (1), vapor
fitting (2), and level sensor (3)
Right side fuel module with vapor fittings (1), siphon hose
(2), fuel supply line (3), and pressure regulator (4)
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Top view of the right side fuel module with control valve
(1), fuel supply fitting (2), fuel pressure regulator (3), and level sensor (4)
OPERATION
The way the pump works is as follows, fuel enters the reservoir of the driver side module. The fuel pump pumps the
fuel through the filter to the passenger side module through a supply line inside tank. The pressure regulator inside
the passenger side module regulates the pressure at 58 psi. All unused fuel that is not sent to the engine is fed
through a venturi at the bottom of the passenger side module. This creates a low pressure siphoning effect and draws
fuel from the passenger side of the tank and transfers it to the drivers side tank via siphon hose inside the tank.
While the vehicle is running the fuel in the passenger side of tank is continuously transferred to the drivers side. Fuel
will continue to fill the drivers side tank till it reaches the bridge section and then start to spill over to the passenger
side.
As stated above we have two fuel level senders, the reading of these senders are averaged out to give us the fuel
gauge reading. When we are diagnosing a sender concern the passenger side reading should never be higher than
the Drivers side reading. It is possible, depending on fuel level and driving habit before diagnosing, to spill fuel over
to the passenger side that might indeed show a lower resistance value than the driver side.
The fuel gauge gives an indication to the vehicle operator of the level of fuel in the fuel tank.
This gauge is controlled by the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming and a
hard wired input received by the cluster from the fuel level sending units on the modules in the fuel tank.
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The instrument cluster continually monitors the fuel tank sending units to determine the level of fuel in the fuel tank.
The cluster then sends the proper fuel level messages to other electronic modules in the vehicle over the Controller
Area Network (CAN) data bus.
For further diagnosis of the fuel gauge or the instrument cluster circuitry that controls the gauge, (Refer to 08 Electrical/8J - Instrument Cluster/Instrument Cluster - Diagnosis and Testing) . The fuel gauge is serviced as a unit
with the instrument cluster.
The tech needs to order the correct part when replacing, the senders, modules, and tank as all are able to be replaced
individually.
Tip:167
Fuel Correction or PCM adaptive Memories
FUEL CORRECTION or ADAPTIVE MEMORIES
OPERATION
Short Term:
Short Term Adaptive or Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) is an "immediate correction" to fuel injector pulse width.
During Closed Loop operation, Short Term Adaptive makes immediate adjustments to fuel delivery in direct
response to the signal from the upstream O2 sensor. The PCM infers air/fuel ratio by monitoring oxygen content
measured by the upstream O2 stream sensor.
This is an immediate response to the O2 sensor signal that is not switching or is consistently high or low. If the
upstream oxygen sensor voltage is not consistently switching between 2.5 and 3.5 volts, the PCM knows that the
base pulse width calculation needs to be modified by adjusting the injector pulse width until the correct O2 sensor
voltage is achieved. The need to adjust the injector pulse width may be a result of vehicle operating conditions,
engine wear, fuel quality, etc. The maximum range of authority for Short Term Adaptive is ±33%. Short Term
Adaptive values are not stores when the ignition is off.
Long Term:
The main function of Long Term Adaptive is to make fuel corrections that permit Short Term Adaptive to hover
around zero. In order to maintain correct emissions throughout all operating ranges of the engines, a cell structure
based on engine rpm and load (MAP) is used.
There are 26 cells used for the NGC. Two of the cells are used only during idle, as determined by throttle position and
park/neutral switch input. The other cells each represent a given off-idle manifold pressure and rpm range.
After the vehicle has reached full operating temperature, short term correction factors will update Long Term
Adaptive Memory cells based on vehicle load (RPM/MAP) to allow the Short Term Adaptive value to be brought
back to near zero. Once this correction factor is updated in the memory, it will be used by the PCM under all
operating conditions, open loop and closed loop.
However, the values stored in the Long-term are updated only after the vehicle has entered long-term closed loop at
full operating temperature.
This is done to prevent any transition temperature or start-up compensation form corrupting long term fuel
correction.
Long Term and Short Term Adaptive can each change the pulse width by as much as ±33% for a maximum total
correction of ±66% from base pulse width calculation.
Long Term Adaptive values are used during both Open Loop and Closed Loop operation.
Note: See Also: Tip:39 Resetting NGC (PCM) Driver Fuel Adaptive’s
Tip:168
Low Fuel Indicator Light
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Low Fuel Light
This light will turn on and a single chime will sound when the fuel level drops to 1/8 tank.
Estimated driving distance, the DTE display will change to a text display of _LOW FUEL_.
This display will continue until the vehicle runs out of fuel. Adding a significant amount
of fuel to the vehicle will turn off the _LOW FUEL_ text and a new DTE value will display.
Tip:169
Modes of Operation for the NGC (PCM)
BASIC MODES OF OPERATION (NGC)
(Next Generation Controller)
You will see the Challenger's Powertrain Control Module (PCM or engine computer) referred to as the NCG, which is the
next level of automotive PCM type computers but with a new "rationality" capability feature thus now calling it the Next
Generation Controller.
As input signals to the PCM change, the PCM adjusts its response to output devices. For example, the PCM must
calculate a different injector pulse width and ignition timing for idle than it does for Wide Open Throttle (WOT). There
are several different modes of operation that determine how the PCM responds to the various input signals.
The multi-port fuel injection systems has the following modes of operation:
Ignition switch ON (Zero RPM)
Engine start-up
Engine warm-up
Cruise
Idle
Acceleration
Deceleration
Wide-Open-Throttle
Ignition switch OFF
Within these modes of operation, there are two different types of operation, OPEN LOOP and CLOSED LOOP.
During OPEN LOOP operation the PCM receives input signals and responds according to preset PCM programming.
Inputs from the upstream and downstream heated oxygen sensors are not monitored during OPEN LOOP operation,
except for heated oxygen sensor diagnostics (they are checked for shorted conditions at all times).
During CLOSED LOOP operation the PCM monitors the inputs from the upstream and downstream heated oxygen
sensors. The upstream heated oxygen sensor input tells the PCM if the calculated injector pulse width resulted in the
ideal air-fuel ratio of 14.7 to one. By monitoring the exhaust oxygen content through the upstream heated oxygen
sensor, the PCM can fine tune injector pulse width. Fine tuning injector pulse width allows the PCM to achieve
optimum fuel economy combined with low emissions.
For the PCM to enter CLOSED LOOP operation, the following must occur:
1. Engine coolant temperature must be over 35°F (1.7°C).
If the coolant is over 35°F (1.7°C) the PCM will wait 38 seconds.
If the coolant is over 50°F (10°C) the PCM will wait 15 seconds.
If the coolant is over 167°F (75°C) the PCM will wait 3 seconds.
For other temperatures the PCM will interpolate the correct waiting time.
2. O2 sensor must read either greater than 0.745 volts or less than 0.29 volt.
OPEN LOOP operation is used for engine start-up (crank), engine warm-up, deceleration with fuel shutoff and wide
open throttle. Under most conditions, acceleration, deceleration (with A/C on), idle and cruise modes, with the
engine at operating temperature occur in CLOSED LOOP operation.
IGNITION SWITCH ON (ZERO RPM) MODE
When the ignition switch activates the fuel injection system, the following actions occur:
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The PCM monitors the engine coolant temperature sensor and throttle position sensor input.
The PCM determines basic fuel injector pulse width from this input.
The PCM determines atmospheric air pressure from the MAP sensor input to modify injector
pulse width.
When the key is in the ON position and the engine is not running (zero rpm), the Auto Shutdown (ASD) and fuel
pump relays de-energize after approximately 1 second. Therefore, battery voltage is not supplied to the fuel pump,
ignition coil, fuel injectors and heated oxygen sensors.
ENGINE START-UP MODE
This is an OPEN LOOP mode. If the vehicle is in park or neutral (automatic transaxles) or the clutch pedal is
depressed (manual transaxles) the ignition switch energizes the starter relay when the engine is not running. The
following actions occur when the starter motor is engaged.
If the PCM receives the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor signals, it energizes the Auto
Shutdown (ASD) relay and fuel pump relay. If the PCM does not receive both signals within approximately one
second, it will not energize the ASD relay and fuel pump relay. The ASD and fuel pump relays supply battery
voltage to the fuel pump, fuel injectors, ignition coil, (EGR solenoid and PCV heater if equipped) and heated
oxygen sensors.
The PCM energizes the injectors (on the 69° falling edge) for a calculated pulse width until it determines
crankshaft position from the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor signals. The PCM
determines crankshaft position within 1 engine revolution.
After determining crankshaft position, the PCM begins energizing the injectors in sequence. It adjusts injector
pulse width and controls injector synchronization by turning the individual ground paths to the injectors On
and Off.
When the engine idles within ±64 RPM of its target RPM, the PCM compares current MAP sensor value with
the atmospheric pressure value received during the Ignition Switch On (zero RPM) mode.
Once the ASD and fuel pump relays have been energized, the PCM determines injector pulse width based on the
following:
MAP
Engine RPM
Battery voltage
Engine coolant temperature
Inlet/Intake air temperature (IAT)
Throttle position
The number of engine revolutions since cranking was initiated
During Start-up the PCM maintains ignition timing at 9° BTDC.
ENGINE WARM-UP MODE
This is an OPEN LOOP mode. The following inputs are received by the PCM:
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
Crankshaft position (engine speed)
Inlet/Intake air temperature (IAT)
Camshaft position
Knock sensor
Throttle position
A/C switch status
Battery voltage
Vehicle speed
Speed control
O2 sensors
The PCM adjusts injector pulse width and controls injector synchronization by turning the individual ground paths to
the injectors On and Off.
The PCM adjusts ignition timing and engine idle speed. Engine idle speed is adjusted through the
idle air control motor.
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CRUISE OR IDLE MODE
When the engine is at operating temperature this is a CLOSED LOOP mode. During cruising or idle the following
inputs are received by the PCM:
Manifold absolute pressure
Inlet/Intake air temperature
Camshaft position
Knock sensor
Throttle position
Exhaust gas oxygen content (O2 sensors)
A/C switch status
Battery voltage
Vehicle speed
The PCM adjusts injector pulse width and controls injector synchronization by turning the individual ground paths to
the injectors On and Off.
The PCM adjusts engine idle speed and ignition timing. The PCM adjusts the air/fuel ratio according to the oxygen
content in the exhaust gas (measured by the upstream and downstream heated oxygen sensor).
The PCM monitors for engine misfire. During active misfire and depending on the severity, the PCM either
continuously illuminates or flashes the malfunction indicator lamp (Check Engine light on instrument panel). Also, the
PCM stores an engine misfire DTC in memory, if 2nd trip with fault.
The PCM performs several diagnostic routines. They include:
Oxygen sensor monitor
Downstream heated oxygen sensor diagnostics during open loop operation (except for shorted)
Fuel system monitor
EGR monitor (if equipped)
Purge system monitor
Catalyst efficiency monitor
All inputs monitored for proper voltage range, rationality.
All monitored components (refer to the Emission section for On-Board Diagnostics).
The PCM compares the upstream and downstream heated oxygen sensor inputs to measure catalytic convertor
efficiency. If the catalyst efficiency drops below the minimum acceptable percentage, the PCM stores a diagnostic
trouble code in memory, after 2 trips.
During certain idle conditions, the PCM may enter a variable idle speed strategy. During variable idle speed strategy
the PCM adjusts engine speed based on the following inputs.
A/C status
Battery voltage
Battery temperature or Calculated Battery Temperature
Engine run time
Vehicle mileage
ACCELERATION MODE
This is a CLOSED LOOP mode. The PCM recognizes an abrupt increase in Throttle Position sensor output voltage or
MAP sensor output voltage as a demand for increased engine output and vehicle acceleration. The PCM increases
injector pulse width in response to increased fuel demand.
Wide Open Throttle-open loop
DECELERATION MODE
This is a CLOSED LOOP mode. During deceleration the following inputs are received by the PCM:
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A/C status
Battery voltage
Exhaust gas oxygen content (upstream heated oxygen sensor)
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
Knock sensor
Throttle position sensor
IAC motor (solenoid) control changes in response to MAP sensor feedback
The PCM may receive a closed throttle input from the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) when it senses an abrupt
decrease in manifold pressure. This indicates a hard deceleration (Open Loop). In response, the PCM may
momentarily turn off the injectors. This helps improve fuel economy, emissions and engine braking.
WIDE-OPEN-THROTTLE MODE
This is an OPEN LOOP mode. During wide-open-throttle operation, the following inputs are used by the PCM:
Engine speed
Knock sensor
Throttle position
When the PCM senses a wide-open-throttle condition through the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) it de-energizes the
A/C compressor clutch relay. This disables the air conditioning system and disables EGR (if equipped).
The PCM adjusts injector pulse width to supply a predetermined amount of additional fuel, based on MAP and RPM.
IGNITION SWITCH OFF MODE
When the operator turns the ignition switch to the OFF position, the following occurs:
All outputs are turned off, unless 02 Heater Monitor test is being run. Refer to the Emission section for
On-Board Diagnostics.
No inputs are monitored except for the heated oxygen sensors.
The PCM monitors the heating elements in the oxygen sensors and then shuts down.
Tip:170
Gauge Cluster Removal and Custom Installations.
Cluster Removal and Installation (RedFox Racing)
http://www.freedrive.com/file/261134,in-car-cluster-install.mov
Yup that's Nathan from RedFox with that video, also from that same site there is a .PDF file which is also very helpful.
Redfox-Racing Custom Gauge Cluster Installation Manual.pdf
I removed my cluster last week in anticipation of the arrival of my custom gauges from US Speedo. It was not a bad
job.
The most nerve-wracking thing was pulling on the dash bezel until it released. What you need to do is remove the
cluster
and then remove the white bezel with the lens attached (6 T-10 screws) and then you can clean the inside of the
lens.
Tip:171
NHTSA Door Safety Label Info (FMVSS)
This NHTSA Vehicle Safety Certification Label (gov) also known as the FMVSS sticker.
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NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC
SAFETY ADMINISTRATION
SAFETY ASSURANCE
OFFICE OF VEHICLE SAFETY COMPLIANCE
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has a legislative mandate under Title 49 of the United States Code,
Chapter 301, Motor Vehicle Safety, to issue Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) and Regulations to which
manufacturers of motor vehicle and equipment items must conform and certify compliance. FMVSS 209 was the first
standard to become effective on March 1, 1967. A number of FMVSS became effective for vehicles manufactured on and
after January 1, 1968. Subsequently, other FMVSS have been issued. New standards and amendments to existing standards
are published in the Federal Register.
Part 567 - Certification Regulation
(Effective 8-31-69)
This part specifies the content and location of and other requirements for the label or tag to be affixed to motor vehicles and
items of motor vehicle equipment manufactured after August 31, 1969. This certificate will provide the consumer with
information to assist him or her in determining which of the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards are applicable to the
vehicle or item of vehicle equipment, and its date of manufacture. An amendment effective January 1, 1972, required gross
vehicle weight (GVWR) information on the certification label.
Sticker breakdown: http://www.fta.dot.gov/laws/leg_reg_5431.html
The best way to tell if a vehicle has U.S. specifications is to look for the FMVSS sticker permanently located on the driver's
side door jamb of the vehicle. Foreign vehicles not intended for sale in the U.S. do not meet these standards in most cases,
and therefore are not eligible for registration in the U.S.
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Open the driver's side door. Locate the sticker or placard on the door jamb. The FMVSS sticker displays the
date of manufacturer, and a legend stating that the vehicle conforms to all applicable FMVSS standards that
were in effect on the date of the vehicle's manufacture.
Look for the initials "DOT" on the vehicle's headlight and taillight covers. If the vehicle conforms to U.S.
specifications, it should have "DOT" visibly stamped on the cover surface, along with an ID number.
Check the Vehicle Identification Number at the bottom of the windshield on the driver's side. Vehicles that
adhere to U.S. specifications must have a 17 digit VIN, with a check digit included as the ninth digit. The ninth
vehicle identification number digit is a VIN accuracy check digit, verifying the previous VIN numbers via a
mathematical algorithm.
Read more: How to Tell if a Vehicle has US Specifications?
Vehicle Safety Compliance Certification Label
The Vehicle Safety Compliance Certification label is attached to the driver's door lock pillar. The label contains the name of
the manufacturer, the month and year of the vehicle, certification statement and VIN. The label also contains gross vehicle
weight and tire data.
http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8828/8828.htm#8828R01_Vehicle_Safety_Compliance_Certif.htm
Fig. 1: The VIN (as well as other crucial information) is found on this door jamb sticker below for an example from a
Ford Truck.
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HOW TO: Decipher the Vehicle Safety Certification Label
VEHICLE SAFETY CERTIFICATION LABEL
A vehicle safety certification label is attached to every DaimlerChrysler Corporation vehicle.
The label certifies that the vehicle conforms to all (NHTSA) applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.
The label also lists:
† Month and year of vehicle manufacture.
† Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).
The gross front and rear axle weight ratings (GAWR’s) are based on a minimum rim size
and maximum cold tire inflation pressure.
† Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
† Type of vehicle.
† Bar code.
† Month, Day and Hour (MDH) of final assembly.
† Paint and Trim codes.
† Country of origin.
For Dodge Challenger, the FMVSS label is located on the door outer door edge on the driver-side door.
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For TPMS tire pressure, OEM tire and loading information, this additional safety label is placed on the door jamb of
the driver side
door opposite the NHTSA required FMVSS label.
This sticker above contains all the Tire and Loading information required by Federal Law and well as occupancy
limits.
This label contains the "stock" tire information on the vehicle as released from the vehicle manufacturer.
Net weight with different model cfg's (Auto, Manual, etc.)
Weight 3,720 lb (SE G1)
Weight 3,834 lb (SE G2)
Weight 4,041 lb (RT G1)
Weight 4,082 lb (RT G2)
Weight 4,170 lb (SRT G1) Auto
Weight 4,160 lb (SRT G2) Auto
Weight 4,170 lb (SRT G2) manual
Reference: ALLPAR Ref
Tip:172
New "Passive Entry" addition to Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) features for 2011
KEYLESS ENTER-N-GO — IF EQUIPPED
The Passive Entry system is an enhancement to the vehicle’s Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) system and a feature of
Keyless Enter-N-Go. This feature allows you to lock and unlock the vehicle’s door(s) without having to press the RKE
transmitter lock or unlock buttons.
NOTE:
• Passive Entry may be programmed ON/OFF, refer to “Uconnect Touch™ Settings” in “Understanding Your
Instrument Panel” for further information.
• If a passive entry door handle has not been used for 72 hours, the passive entry feature for the handle may time
out. Pulling the deactivated front door handle will reactivate the door handle’s passive entry feature.
• If wearing gloves on your hands, or if it has been raining on the passive entry door handle, the unlock sensitivity
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can be affected, resulting in a slower response time.
• If you unlock the doors using the passive entry door handles, but do NOT pull the handle, the doors will
automatically lock after 60 seconds.
To Unlock From The Driver’s Side:
With a valid Passive Entry RKE transmitter within 5 ft. (1.5 m) of the driver’s side of the vehicle, grab the front driver
door handle to unlock the driver’s door automatically.
The interior door panel lock knob will raise when the door is unlocked.
Outside Door Handle Unlock/Lock Button
NOTE:
If “Unlock All Doors 1st Press” is programmed all doors will unlock when you grab hold of the front driver’s door
handle. To select between “Unlock Driver Door 1st Press” and “Unlock All Doors 1st Press”, refer to “Uconnect Touch™
Settings” in “Understanding Your Instrument Panel” for further information.
To Unlock From The Passenger Side:
With a valid Passive Entry RKE transmitter within 5 ft (1.5 m) of the passenger side of the vehicle, grab the front
passenger door handle to unlock both doors automatically. The interior door panel lock knob will raise when the door
is unlocked.
NOTE:
Both doors will unlock when the front passenger door handle is grabbed regardless of the driver’s door unlock
preference setting (“Unlock Driver Door 1st Press” or “Unlock All Doors 1st Press”).
Preventing Inadvertent Locking Of Passive Entry RKE Transmitter In Vehicle
To minimize the possibility of unintentionally locking a Passive Entry RKE transmitter inside your vehicle, the Passive
Entry system is equipped with an automatic door unlock feature which will function if there is no Key Fob present in
the ignition.
If one of the vehicle doors is open and the door panel switch is used to lock the vehicle, once all open doors have
been closed, the vehicle checks the inside and outside of the vehicle for any valid Passive Entry RKE transmitters. If
one of the vehicle’s Passive Entry RKE transmitters is detected inside the vehicle, and no other valid Passive Entry
RKE transmitters is detected outside the vehicle, the Passive Entry System automatically unlocks all vehicle doors
and chirps the horn three times (on the third attempt ALL doors will lock and the Passive Entry RKE transmitter can
be locked in the vehicle).
To Enter The Trunk
With a valid Passive Entry RKE transmitter within 3 ft (1.0 m) of the deck lid, press the button on the located on the
center of the light bar which is located on the deck lid above the license plate.
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NOTE:
If you inadvertently leave your vehicle’s Passive Entry RKE transmitter in the trunk and try to close the deck lid, the
deck lid will automatically unlatch, unless another one of the vehicle’s Passive Entry RKE transmitters is outside the
vehicle and within 3 ft (1.0 m) of the deck lid.
To Lock The Vehicle’s Doors
With one of the vehicle’s Passive Entry RKE transmitters within 5 ft (1.5 m) of the driver or passenger front door
handle, press the door handle LOCK button to lock both doors.
NOTE:
• After pressing the door handle LOCK button, you have two seconds before you can lock or unlock the doors, using
either passive entry door handle.
• The passive entry system will not operate if the RKE transmitter battery is dead. The vehicle doors can also be
locked by using the RKE transmitter lock button or the lock button located on the vehicle’s interior door panel.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is equipped with Keyless Enter-N-Go (Passive Entry) and the EVIC is programmed to Unlock All Doors
1st Press, all doors will unlock no matter which Passive Entry equipped door handle is grasped. If Driver Door 1st
Press is programmed, only the driver’s door will unlock when the driver’s door is grasped. With Passive Entry, if
Driver Door 1st Press is programmed touching the handle more than once will only result in the driver’s door
opening. If driver door first is selected, once the driver door is opened, the interior door lock/unlock switch can be
used to unlock all doors (or use RKE transmitter).
NOTE:
There has been a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) released 3/15/2011 for 2011 Dodge Challenger with
Keyless Enter-N-Go (Passive Entry) that corrects a security problem with the system. For an up to date
listing of Challenger TSB, RRT, and Safety Recall list see Tip:153
TSB released for 2011 Challenger
Date
03/15/11
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Yr
2011
TSB #
#08-002-11
Description
Decklid Can Be Opened Without The Key Fob Being In The Proximity Of The
Vehicle
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
Tip:173
Installing Radar Detector using Mirror Power for no-clutter wiring.
Help on hard wiring with invisicord for Radar Detector
Q: Does anyone know what leads you tap into on the back of the mirror to power a radar detector?
I have the invisicord to match my escort 9500ix. It has a yellow lead for 12V and black for ground.
A: Look at this page below from Speedy's and note the available purchase of a harness to mount your detector under
the rear view mirror.
http://www.speedysgarage.net/challengerweb/challenger_mods/challenger_escort_8500x50
/challenger_counter_mesures_8500x50.htm
For those who just need the wire colors from the connector (C205) here is the wiring diagram for 2009-10 Challenger
on the "powered" mirror.
See Also: Tip:112 ElectroChromatic Mirror disable on Reverse feature
Tip:174
NHTSA complaints for Dodge Challenger
For those who are interested in checking the Federal Governments records on official complaints from customers on their
new Dodge Challengers, you can go to this website and do a search to get the results like the example listed below. When
you file an official complaint with the NHTSA about a vehicle, you will be given a CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: XXXXXXX;
that will be used to record and track the complaint.
Here is a link to all customer complaints as submitted to the National Highway and Traffic Administration on Chrysler
Group/Dodge Challenger for year 2009. If you have entered a complaint to NHTSA you can see if your VIN NUMBER is
recorded below.
You can find out about your 2010 or 2011 Challenger NHTSA official complaint listing by doing a search of by selecting:
1.) VEHICLE TYPE
2.) MODEL YEAR
3.) MAKE
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4.) MODEL
5.) COMPONENT (SELECT ALL BOX)
Check to Request Complaint Research. Submit below.
Search Results
Report Date : March 9, 2011 at 09:50 AM
Search Type : VEHICLE
Year :
2010
Make :
DODGE
Model :
CHALLENGER
Top of Form
Bottom of
Form
Bottom of
Form
Results : 32 | All records displayed
Make : DODGE
Model : CHALLENGER
Year : 2010
Manufacturer : CHRYSLER GROUP LLC
Crash : No
Fire : No
ODI ID Number : 10386728
Number of Injuries: 0
Number of Deaths: 0
Date of Failure: August 7, 2010
VIN : 2B3CJ4DV3AH...
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Summary:
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE CHALLENGER. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V200000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:MODULE). HE STATED THAT
AFTER CONTACTING THE DEALER, THEY ADVISED HIM THAT THE PART NEEDED FOR REPAIRS WOULD
BE UNAVAILABLE FOR SIX MONTHS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND THEY ADVISED HIM
TO CONTINUE CALLING THE DEALER UNTIL THE PART BECAME AVAILABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT
REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 100.
Tip:175
Steering Control Module (SCM)
WARNING: To service any component of the SCCM, the entire
assembly must be removed from the column.
This must be done due to the clockspring passing
through the assembly and into the self docking
connector.
Failure to remove the assembly could damage the
pins of the clockspring and prevent the airbag
system from
operating properly.
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The Steering Control Module (SCM) is the module located in the
bottom of the Steering Column Control Module (SCCM), retained
by three screws, and is the mating point for all the switches
(steering angle sensor, tilt/telescopic switch, multi-function switch,
clockspring) located in the SCCM. The steering wheel switches,
horn, speed control switches, attach to the steering wheel and
interface to the SCM through the SCCM. The SCM is screwed
directly to the bottom of the multi-function switch. All the other
switches are mounted on top of the multi-function switch.
OPERATION
WARNING: To service any component of the SCCM, the
entire assembly must be removed from the
column.
This must be done due to the clockspring
passing through the assembly and into the self
docking
connector. Failure to remove the assembly
could damage the pins of the clockspring and
prevent
the airbag system from operating properly.
Failure to follow these instructions may result
in serious
or fatal injury.
The Steering Control Module (SCM) communicates via the Local Interconnect Network (LIN) serial data bus (9600
bps) to the steering wheel switches and the horn switch. The SCM communicates across the CAN C and CAN B. This is
an ultra-low voltage serial data bus that allows the following components to communicate with the Controller Area
Network (CAN) B and C data buses.
The SCM changes the LIN (low speed) communication to CAN communication and also stores Diagnostic Trouble
Codes (DTC's) for the switches within the SCCM and on the steering wheel.
The SCM is not serviceable and if found faulty, it must be replaced as a unit.
Tip:176
Front Clip Removal for Black Chrome Grill Mod
For those who are going to install the Black Chrome Grill Surround, the document below is quite helpful in
understanding and detailing how to disassemble the front clip on your Dodge Challenger. Dodge has not made it easy
to change the grill or other front end items, but knowing how to do it properly is 95% of the battle!
http://www.moparsupercenter.com/pdfs/82212354.pdf
Tip:177
ESP and Electronic Stability Program FAQ’s
Q: What is ESP, what does it mean?
A: ESP in a simplified way means a computer monitoring of vehicle speed, braking intensity, pitch, yaw and traction
are all taken into consideration and a "supervisory" type control action is taken if a problem is detected.
History:
Electronic Stability Program or ESP is the name given by the Chrysler corporation to the electronic driver’s aids that
are used to help motorists keep their vehicles under control when faced with inclement weather conditions or
extreme driving situations. Introduced in 2004, ESP was first available exclusively on the Chrysler 300 and Dodge
Magnum. The reason these vehicles were chosen to roll out the technology is because at the time, Chrysler had
merged with Mercedes and formed the DaimlerChrysler corporation, and
the LX platform upon which they were based was in fact adapted from the Mercedes-Benz E-Class. Mercedes had been
perfecting their ESP technology since 1995, and the years of development directly benefited these Chrysler products.
The German auto manufacturer had long claimed that the Electronic Stability Program had played a significant role in
reducing the number of serious accidents that their vehicles had been involved in.
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In 2006, Chrysler announced that they would be installing the system on an additional 1.2 million vehicles, with the eventual goal of
covering 70 percent of their vehicle lineup.
How ESP works:
The Electronic Stability Program from Chrysler is a fairly complex piece of automotive engineering.
The aim of this system was to move beyond a safety program which was only active during acceleration. ESP is armed
as soon as the vehicle is started, and sensor data is gathered at all times. This data is fed into an active computer
model which compares the standard behavior of the vehicle’s driver against the actual driving situation as reported by
the sensor information. The model is adaptive and learns the driving habits of the vehicle owner, using this
information to generate the baseline of safe values to use for comparison purposes.
Through this methodology, the ESP system is designed to rapidly react to any deviations between expected values
and the condition of the vehicle.
This computer model sets the Chrysler Electronic Stability Program apart from other, more basic brake and throttle
management stability control systems. Information such as vehicle speed, braking intensity, pitch and yaw and
traction are all taken into consideration. Wheel speed is determined by the same sensors that are used to help the
anti-lock braking system (ABS) system choose where braking force should be applied. Steering angle is measured by
a sensor in the steering column that notes the position of the steering wheel relative to the actual direction of the
vehicle as determined by the yaw sensor.
A sensor measuring the lateral acceleration of a vehicle is used to ascertain if the vehicle is in the middle of a skid or
not. All of these factors are calculated extremely rapidly by the central processing unit of the ESP system, since at
highway speeds even milliseconds can result in a significant amount of distance traveled.
How ESP can help:
If the Electronic Stability Program determines that intervention is needed, it can respond in a variety of ways to
ensure the continued safe operation of the vehicle. ESP can reduce engine power, thus eliminating wheel spin and
slowing down the vehicle in a low-traction situation. It can also take multiple steps to correct a skid or slide, such as
individually applying the brakes to each wheel in order to prevent the vehicle from rotating or building enough inertia
to roll over. It can also take the extreme option of both applying the brakes and cutting power to bring the vehicle to
a complete stop, should it decide that conditions are too treacherous to continue driving.
A common misconception is that stability control programs use the ABS system in order to control the braking
pressure at each wheel. In reality, ESP must increase braking pressure individually, while an ABS system reduces the
braking pressure of an individual wheel while maintaining uniform pressure for the remaining brakes.
This means that the Electronic Stability Program requires a separate brake modulator.
Disabling ESP:
ESP is now a common feature in Chrysler and Dodge vehicles, and in most of these cars it cannot be completely disabled. Unlike
other stability programs on the market, pushing the button on the dash to ‘deactivate’ the system merely lowers its sensitivity. In
the case of extreme wheel spin or radical lateral movement, ESP will kick in to reign the vehicle back under control. In order to
completely remove the Electronic Stability Program from the equation, it is necessary to pull a fuse underneath the hood of the car.
In response to consumer demand, some of Chrysler’s more performance-oriented vehicles are now being outfitted with an ESP
system which does not require such an extreme step in order to be turned off completely.
FAQ#2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxedwell
How do you turn the traction control "partially off?"
Do you mean turning it off after you launch?
SRT8 ESP
Think of a scale from 0-100, where 0=NO computer intervention (completely under human control, like a Viper) and
100=computer checks each and every variable and input to ensure that the vehicle is always under complete
control (if not by human then by microprocessor).
ESP primarily works by controlling throttle and braking (usually one wheel or another), not steering or any other
input.
"On" means that you're always subject to the computer monitoring the situation (which may or may not be your
perception) and the computer overriding your power inputs to make sure the vehicle stays in control at all times.
Realistically, in an SRT, this would be like a "90" or a "95" -- the engineers want you to have a little bit of room to
get some squeal or some fun, but the computer will always save your butt. No donuts, no burnouts.
The Charger and Jeep are closer to 95 by default, the Challenger more like 90 by default (SRT engineers have
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confirmed this IIRC in a chat session)
"Off" (simple press and let go of ESP button" means that the computer relaxes somewhat, say at a "60 or "65" on our
scale. You get some tire squeal, some burnouts, but the computer will still intervene in certain situations where it
deems you're getting dangerous.
This setting is fine for most non-performance drivers, who want a little danger in their lives, without really risking
much. Don't get me wrong, this is still largely a dry-weather setting only, but you'll probably be fine in rain with it off
as long as you're watching what's going on.
"Off" (hold the button until you get the DING and EVIC explicitly warns you) puts it at about "25" or maybe "30" on
the scale. You're going to be a LOT more like a Viper, with much less nanny babysitting your power inputs. You will be
able to do long, nasty burnouts, and take long drifts around sweepers. HOWEVER, the computer is still watching, and
will intervene in certain "extreme conditions" (that you may encounter in track or crash situations).
THIS is what most car magazines complain about, with ESP never being totally off.
You will be affected if you're trying to max out performance. There is no way that I know of to COMPLETELY "disable
ESP", unfortunately.
It's just part and parcel to the product line of cars.
SEE ALSO: Tip:15 ESP and Cruise Control
web Links;
www.300cforums.com/.../faq.../3173-tech-electronic-stability-program-esp-how-works.html
www.benzworld.org/.../1344601-electronic-stability-program-esp-acceleration-slip.html
www.youtube.com/watch?v=NiZjeeMExY4
www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1qt84c2KN0
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_stability_control
Tip:178
ETC - Electronic Throttle Control
This is also generically known as a "Fly-by-wire" fuel control system, as opposed to older or legacy "direct cable"
systems. So in most modern vehicles, there is no "direct cable" connection between the accelerator pedal and the
throttle body that controls air into the intake manifold. The technology has been around for the past 25 years and is
not new.
There have been a number of upgrade, iterations or improvements over the years and current systems are very
sofisticated.
Here are some good information links to get this started; Topic link: http://www.answers.com/topic/drive-by-wire
Advantages:
Safety can be improved by providing computer controlled intervention of vehicle controls with systems such as
Electronic Stability Control (ESC), Adaptive Cruise Control and Lane Assist Systems.
Accelerator and TPS position sensors.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h33.pdf
For those who really like the hard-core scientific aspect of this control scheme, here is a link to a ETC white paper;
Diagnosis of automotive electronic throttle control systems
Note that you will see this abbreviation: LH = shorthand for "limp-home"
Ok, your next question: What is "limp-home"?
It's the "return spring" in the throttle body and its effect on linearity:
An electronic throttle is a low-power dc servo drive which positions the throttle plate. Its application in modern
automotive engines leads to improvements in vehicle drivability, fuel economy, and emissions. Transmission friction
and the return spring "limp-home" nonlinearity significantly affect the electronic throttle bodies performance.
This is an insidious failure as it may not provide any symptoms until there is total failure. All cars having a TPS have
what is known as a 'limp-home-mode'. When the car goes into the limp-home-mode it is because the accelerator and
engine control computer and the throttle are not talking to each other in a way that they can understand. The engine
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control computer shuts down the signal to the throttle position motor and a set of springs in the throttle set it to a
fast idle, fast enough to get the transmission in gear but not so fast that driving may be dangerous.
Oh, it even gets hairier if you really want to dig deeper:
A dynamic friction adaptive is developed in order to adequately capture the observed characteristics of the preslidingdisplacement and breakaway effects. The linear part of electronic throttle process is also analyzed and identified. A
nonlinear control strategy is proposed, consisting of a proportional-integral-derivative (PID) controller and a feedback
compensator for friction and limp-home effects. The PID controller parameters are analytically optimized (adaptive's)
according to the damping optimum criterion.
Also note that ESP has direct effect on the vehicle's "drive-by-wire" control when it sees and unstable situation.
Varying degrees of throttle "over-ride or containment" may be set when ESP takes over.
Now if you have any further questions about drive-by-wire systems, I highly recommend that you can go to the IEEE
site below and continue your research there:
An electronic throttle control strategy including compensation of friction and limp-home effects
Dodge Challenger Basic ETC system and components;
Now, let's look at how the ETC system basically works in our Dodge Challengers. We have some basic hardware that
are part of the Electronic Throttle Control System;
1. Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
2. PCM - Powertrain control module (engine computer) which contains the proportional-integral-derivative
(PID) controller
and a feedback compensator for friction and limp-home effects
3. Throttle Body Servo Control
4. ETC Fault Indicator Light on Instrument Panel
So, in short, the PCM monitors the position of the accelerator and provides the proper throttle body position to
control air flow into the intake plenum and sets the pulse width for the fuel injectors.
Note that the PCM also accepts inputs from ESP and other devices to trim or alter the accelerator pedal signal for
vehicle safety and control.
The Accelerator Sensor and the Throttle Body Control have additional feedback sensors to monitor the primary
position sensors to detect errors or faults. This is why it is very important that if you have and ETC fault light on
your instrument panel, that you take this very seriously and get the vehicle in for service and diagnostic testing as
soon as possible.
Here is an electrical sample diagram of the ETC pedal sensor (accelerator) and note dual isolated 5VDC power
supplies and grounds feeding the two separate pedal position sensors. This pedal assembly and wiring is tied directly
into the PCM as two isolated inputs.
The redundancy is for self check and real time ETC diagnostics.
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ETC Throttle Body Control
Electronic Throttle Control
Definition:
Electronic Throttle Control (ETC), sometimes called Drive-By-Wire (DBW), is a technology that replaces the
conventional cable/linkage connection between a vehicle's accelerator pedal and the engine's throttle body.
Almost all modern automobiles with mechanical linkage use a throttle position sensor to determine throttle plate
opening once the linkage has set it. The most common arrangement is a Bowden wire mechanism.
ETC, instead, determines necessary throttle opening using various input sensors (accelerator pedal position, engine
RPM, engine vacuum (load), vehicle speed), and then positions the throttle via an actuator driven by a small,
high-torque DC motor.
The main benefit of ETC is much quicker and accurate throttle control that helps the powertrain and emissions
management systems deal with quickly changing conditions (ambient temperature, atmospheric pressure and
accessory loads) that are normally outside the driver’s scope of control. In addition, this arrangement allows near
seamless interaction between the motors, engines, controllers and drivelines of hybrid vehicles as well as
motor/generators in electric vehicles (EV)s.
ETC facilitates the integration of features such as cruise control, traction control, stability control, and precrash
systems and others that require torque management, since the throttle can be moved irrespective of the position of
the driver's accelerator pedal. ETC provides only a very limited benefit in areas such as air-fuel ratio control, exhaust
emissions and fuel consumption reduction, working in concert with other technologies such as gasoline direct
injection.
A criticism of the very early ETC implementations was that they were "overruling" driver decisions. Nowadays, the
vast majority of drivers have no idea how much intervention is happening. Much of the engineering involved with
drive-by-wire technologies including ETC deals with failure and fault management. Most ETC systems have sensor and
controller redundancy, even as complex as independent microprocessors with independently written software within a
control module whose calculations are compared to check for possible errors and faults.
Failure modes
Before drive by wire technology was introduced, if a throttle stuck open a driver could generally put a toe under the
accelerator and lift up.
Occasionally after servicing or repair, the wire or cable between the accelerator and throttle would not be correctly
reinstalled causing sudden acceleration.
However, with the ETC, the movement is all done by electronic controls moving an electric motor. But just moving
the throttle by sending a signal to the motor is an open loop condition and leads to poor control. Most if not all
current ETC systems have a closed loop system whereby the ECU tells the throttle to open a certain amount
according to an algorithm based on the geometry of the throttle. Then, if due to dirt build up in the throttle bore or a
damaged TPS a signal is sent from the TPS to the ECU, the ECU can make appropriate adjustments to compensate,
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though it might result in surging, hesitation or uneven idle.
There are two primary types of throttle position sensors: a potentiometer or a Hall Effect sensor (magnetic device).
The potentiometer is a satisfactory way for non-critical applications such as volume control on a radio, but as it has a
wiper contact rubbing against a resistance element, and dirt and wear between the wiper and the resistor can cause
erratic readings. The more reliable solution is the magnetic coupling that makes no physical contact, so will never be
subject to failing by wear.
This is an insidious failure as it may not provide any symptoms until there is total failure. All cars having a TPS have
what is known as a 'limp-home-mode'. When the car goes into the limp-home-mode it is because the accelerator and
engine control computer and the throttle are not talking to each other in a way that they can understand. The engine
control computer shuts down the signal to the throttle position motor and a set of springs in the throttle set it to a
fast idle, fast enough to get the transmission in gear but not so fast that driving may be dangerous.
Recently, ETC has been suspected by some to be responsible for some incidents of unintended acceleration in Toyota
and Lexus vehicles. This is fiercely disputed by Toyota, which blames unintended acceleration on owners, weather
mats, and most recently defective gas pedals (outsource production). Federal Highway Safety Commission finds no
electronic failures as root cause of unintended acceleration. Here is NHTSA Federal Commission Report.
Current Patent;
Pedal position rate-based electronic throttle progression
United States Patent 6915779
An engine control system in a vehicle including an internal combustion engine, an electronic throttle controlling air
flow to the internal combustion engine, a controller controlling the position of the electronic throttle, an accelerator
pedal having an accelerator pedal sensor that generates a signal to the controller, and where the controller computes
a rate of change for the accelerator pedal and actuates the electronic throttle to a desired position based upon the
rate of change for the accelerator pedal.
Links;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_throttle_control
http://alternativefuels.about.com/od/glossary/g/electhrottlcont.htm
http://articles.d-tips.com/art8.html
http://www.thefreelibrary.com
/CTS+Wins+Multiple+Electronic+Accelerator+Pedal+Module+Programs+with...-a0113642549
http://www.arenscontrols.com/index.cfm/products-electronic-throttle-foot
http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/FAQ/Delphi_Drive_by_wire_2000-01-0556.pdf
Tip:179
WA580 (NAG1) Automatic Maintenance and Mercedes Parts
This applies to the WA580 (NAG1) 5 speed automatic. This is a german made transmission and also used
in several model Mercedes vehicles.
If you are doing any transmission maintenance or upgrades, and you are in need of a new transmission filter; Part
#52108325AA
STOP! & SAVE SOME $$$
I called a local Chrysler dealership and was quoted $41.85 plus a $0.50 environmental charge.
I then called the local Mercedes-Benz dealership... $18.29, no environmental charge.
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MB Pat #A 140-277-00-95
LESS THAN HALF PRICE, DIRECT FROM MERCEDES-BENZ!
Exact same filter, both the MB and Chrysler part numbers appear on the box.
Now, If you do buy it from a Chrysler dealership, it still comes in the Mercedes box.
The DODGE filter for NAG1 5 speed is 5210083325 AA = $20.46 at Mopar Supercenter
The pan gasket is DODGE P/N 52108332 AA= $9.79 at Mopar SuperCenter
Tell them you want the LX Forum Discount.
The dealership's dip stick #9336A can be purchased directly from SPX Corp Miller Special Tools; it was $46 dollars
plus shipping about 3 months ago when I got mine directly from company...I need to find that old post. The Full fill
mark is at 80mm at full hot and on a level surface.
The fluid is ATF+4 and is commercially available under many aftermarket manufacturers like Castrol, Advanced auto,
Citgo, Havoline, Mobil, Mobil Super, NAPA, Parts plus, Penzoil, Quaker state, Vavoline and others under license to
Chrysler.
Owners Manual states 5 litres for service fill (10.6 pts), 7.7 litres (16.3 pts)for overhaul fill (ie new trans and/or TC).
Local NYC Metro dealerships want $210 for trans service which is fluid/filter/gasket/fluid.
Useful Mercedes Part Numbers (NAG1 Transmission)
This list below provides Mercedes part numbers for items useful to LX/LC owners.
Ok, first item:
Transmission dipstick tool
(Part number is correct, and so is your dealer. It's a dipstick tool to check fluid level. You do not leave it in the car)
Also, Its only $20 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...motiveQ5fTools (Note: See also Tip:59 NAG1 Dipstick
and Transmission Level Checking (AUTO))
This allows checking the fluid level without having to use the Starscan for transmission temps.
140 589 15 21 00
Trans Pan w/drain plug
140 270 08 12
Transmission Pan Gasket
Normal maintenance part
140 271 00 80
Transmission Filter
Normal maintenance part
140 277 00 95
Transmission Electrical plug Adapter with O-rings.
You need this if you have a leak at the plug on the transmission.
203 540 02 53
Transmission Electrical plug Adapter O-rings.
These are replacement o-rings for the above plug.
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026 997 40 48 28
026 997 41 48 28
Blue Top Transmission Solenoids
These will increase line pressure and therefore shift firmness in the 5 speed NAG1 Tranny.
240 270 00 89
Rear Diff Cooler and required Diff Cover for 215mm rear
Keep those rears cooled off.
Cooler: 171 351 0108
Cover: 204 351 05 08
Thanks to Jim McVeigh
Parking Brake Pedal Cover (Matches Mopar Pedal Covers)
203 430 00 84
!!!May need a bit of trimming to the rubber back in Auto cars!!!
Thanks to Speedy at Challengertalk.com
Check out "getmercedsparts.com" good prices.
Note: See also; Tip:188 New Product: High Performance NAG1 Transmission Kit
Tip:180
MOPAR Performance MTCM - vs Stock TCM and warnings;
From SRT Engineers Chat session;
Thanks for listening and answering our questions, I have a 2009 charger SRT-8 and the transmission still upshift's out of
first at any time it wants.
Will the new MTCM change that and what are the shift points? Part # on the box is p5155177, part # on the actual
controller is pp5155179aa, have
not installed this yet because the dealership installed the first one by the instructions and fried it, I'm now told just to
install it at home and run the
adaptive's, yes or no, thanks again.
P5155177 is the kit part number. P5155179 is the part number for the actual controller. The new TCM does have
the hold-in-gear
feature that will prevent it from upshifting in Autostick mode. The shift points are the same. Sorry to hear your first
controller got
damaged. The instructions do warn against initializing the controller as that will wipe out the MOPAR Programming.
See below.
WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!
DO NOT USE THE STARSCAN "INITIALIZE EGS - 52/53" FUNCTION AS YOU WOULD WHEN REPLACING
A FACTORY TCM.
DOING SO WILL CORRUPT THE MOPAR PERFORMANCE TCM PROGRAMMING AND WILL RENDER
THE MTCM MODULE
NON FUNCTIONAL.
Most customers should be able to install the part themselves, just be sure to follow all the instructions included
with the kit.
You may wish to use Velcro and temporarily attach the MTCM over the TCM using the following procedure;
Challenger TCM module removal
- If you've loaded a tune via Predator...Return it to factory.
- Meaning load your factory Back up!
- Open the driver's door and remove the plastic cover that's about even with the split for the UPR and LWR dash.
- It just snaps in.
- Remove the screw that was under the cover.
- Remove the screw under the LWR Dash.
- Remove the fitted Wire cover under the LWR dash.
- It just pulls down.
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- The LWR dash Snaps in Place. Pry it out.
- The TCM will be facing you, with (2) large wire bundle plugged into it.
Suggestion: Leave the factory TCM in place. Velcro the new TCM to the old TCM.
It works best that way and its very simple to bring the old TCM back on line!
Note see also; Tip:188 New Product: High Performance NAG1 Transmission Kit
Tip:181
Emergency Brake - Matching Pedal Cover
If you have the Challenger Sports Pedal covers (stainless with rubber dots) you will like this!
Many have these nice pedal covers on their Challengers, but Dodge did not put a matching cover on the emergency brake
pedal - it's a plain rubber cover.
Note that many Mercedes parts fit the LX/LC Charger/Challenger and there is a Mercedes Benz part matches perfectly.
Call your local Mercedes Benz dealer and ask Parts Dept. to order a Part #203-430-00-84.
It will came in 3 days later and cost $20. I am guessing these pedal covers were shared parts from when Mercedes Benz
owned Chrysler.
While it is a tight fit to get it on, it is a perfect match in looks and fit. Use a little Windex, Silicone spray or WD-40, as it will
help lubricate getting the pedal cover on.
On vehicles with automatic, these covers will may need a little bit of trimming on the back side to fit.
See picture;
Tip:182
Copper Spark Plugs vs. Iridium and Platinum:
Understand for Challenger and Top Performance
Many people come to the point where they are forced to change the spark plugs on their vehicle and face a difficult
decision; copper spark plugs or those of another type?
You can find spark plugs in a variety of different metal combinations, including aluminum spark plugs, iridium plugs,
platinum and more. Copper core spark plugs are still the most commonly seen, however, and many people agree that
they are the best. However, the advertising that accompanies the different types of spark plugs is potentially
misleading, so it's important to recognize the real difference between the spark plugs in question. In order to do that,
it's necessary to first learn about what the metal in the spark plug is used for.
Purpose of the Metal
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The metal in a spark plug serves a single basic purpose: to channel the electric energy from the plug wire through
the spark plug so that it can be forced to the engine block in the form of a spark. Therefore, any metal that conducts
electricity at all could potentially be used for a spark plug. The metal should also not get too hot; one of the main
problems with some metals is that they overheat quickly, causing the electric charge itself to be compromised and the
spark plug to not operate as smoothly.
Copper Spark Plugs
Copper spark plugs are generally considered to have the best performance of any spark plug type. This is potentially
different from what advertising companies suggest, but the other metals are, unfortunately, not as conductive in
general as copper is. Platinum and iridium plugs are more likely to overheat, which causes damage to the plug
components and can compromise the delivery of the spark to the engine block.
Platinum and Iridium Plugs
Platinum and Iridium plugs perform at a lower level than copper spark plugs, because they are less conductive and
they tend to overheat. However, the overall longevity of these two types of metal is better than copper plugs. In
reality, copper has the best performance of all three and the worst longevity. Platinum has good longevity and the
worst performance. Iridium has good longevity and a performance that is decent, which is why iridium plugs tend to
be more expensive than any other type. Still, the difference between these plugs in terms of overall quality is
minimal, as there is a trade off for each.
As a general rule, most copper plugs need to be changed every 30-50k miles or so. Pulling a plug or two to inspect
the tips for wear, etc., would be the final determination on the vehicle in question. Platinum and iridium plugs can
often go for twice that before they require changing, but the overall performance will not be as good and you may
have to deal with overheating of the plugs. This is potentially not worth the added cost of both platinum and iridium
spark plugs, although the decision will depend upon your preference.
If you have any other questions about spark plugs and which are right for your vehicle, consult with a 'trusted'
mechanic for more advice.
See also Tip:69 for specific technical info on Dodge Challenger Spark plugs and replacement.
Tip: 183
Dreaded Front Suspension Pop!
For those who have lowered their front ends, or have done other front suspension work, be aware of an issue
concerning the front sway bar and end links.
I may have an easy fix for the “Dreaded Suspension Pop” a lot of us are hearing, especially car’s built in the fall of
2008.
The problem (for me at least) was in the sway bar end links. Thanks to Grey Ghost for the heads-up on this.
Here are picture's of how it came assembled from the factory. CLICK HERE for additional material and
information.
Tip: 184
Center Taillight Assembly Removal
1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the two screws (2) that secure the outboard ends of the center tail lamp unit (3) to the deck lid (1).
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3. Remove the four wing nuts (1) from the back side of the trunk lid.
4. Remove the two push pin retainers (3). from the bottom of the center tail lamp unit.
5. Carefully pull the center tail lamp unit away from the trunk lid and disconnect the electrical connector (2).
Note:
See also good information contained in Tip:154 Installing Wing Spoiler on Dodge Challenger
Tip:185
Rear End Lubrication/Service Interval
A Challenger Forum member writes;
This is what started my quest for a definitive answer on what Dodge/Chrysler expected of its owners of the
Challengers, and more importantly how I could keep mine out of the shop, both while under warranty, and long after
as the 2010's do not have the lifetime warranty. Being a new R/T owner and not wanting to look like an idiot, the
first place I turned was the owner's manual, to see when the rear end oil is supposed to be changed. I thought I must
be missing something as IT IS NOT IN THE R/T OWNERS MANUAL.
Additional pertinent info for R/T is available in the SRT owner's manual.
Consider this;
Rear End Service/Lubrication RT/SRT (Service Interval)
2010 Challenger SRT Owner's Manual (pgs. 391-393)
24,000 Miles (40,000 km) or 24 Months Maintenance Service Schedule
❏ Change the manual transmission fluid (if equipped) if using your vehicle for any of the following:
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❏ Most of your driving is at sustained high speeds during hot weather, above 90°F (32°C), driving in dusty
conditions, or stop and go driving.
❏ Inspect the rear axle fluid if you have been pulling a trailer or have been running the rear diff. at a heavy duty
cycle. Change as needed.
❏ Inspect the rear axle fluid. Replace if dirty, discolored or contaminated.
❏ Change the rear axle fluid if using your vehicle for any of the following: police, taxi, fleet, or frequent trailer
towing.
❏ Change the manual transmission fluid (if equipped) if using your vehicle for any of the following:
❏ Most of your driving is at sustained high speeds during hot weather, above 90°F (32°C), driving in dusty
conditions, or stop and go driving.
Changing rear fluid is somewhat subjective after the 36,000 mile visual check.
If you have changed your manual transmission fluid at this time, I would also recommend changing the rear end fluid
as well to synchronize events, since wear and tear on the manual transmission will be similar to the wear and tear on
the rear end (pinion, gears, bearings, etc.) But in the end, visual inspection will determine if change is immediately
required.
Recommend fluid is 75w140 gear oil, either Amsoil SG 75w140 or Redline GL-5 75w140 since the stock factory
lubricant oil doesn't seem to hold up.
Here is a link to Amsoil lubricants.
http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-gear-oil
Tip:186
RBZ Radio loading multiple CD's issue and GraceNotes (courtesy RTFun)
Anyone with the Model RBZ 430 Radio (including the ones with NAV) should check to see if they also have this
issue
I am having this EXACT same issue with my RBZ radio. To expand a little bit:
Problems loading multiple CD's
- First 8 or 9 CDs -No issue with album art, everything displays correctly.
- CDs 10-15 (give or take) - No album art at all (shows ♫ the music note)
- CDs 16 and above - Shows album art for the CD's in range 10-15. Meaning, 16th CD
put in shows the album art for CD #10. 17th CD shows the album art for CD #11.
Very strange. But, there is a solution for the problem above.
Solution is Travel Link Update Software
First off, anyone with the model 430 radio (including the ones with NAV) should check to see if they have this issue many will find they do.
The solution is an update DVD that most dealers have.
The DVD is called "Travel Link Update" and even though the RBZ 430 radio doesn't use Travel Link, this same DVD
also has the fix for the
GraceNotes recognition error - so ask the dealer to install it.
The update disc part number is 68141133AA.
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This information is from the radio manufacturer support to May 23, 2011.
[From RTFun]
Yes this update did fix my radio. Check you radio system setup screen that shows the S/N's and look for a number
that reads 20.02.01.
If you have it, you need this update. It turns out the update is a CD - not a DVD like I was told. The disk says it is for
a Travel Link update
(which is for Nav units) but it is for both radios - it just has specific updates for NAV Radios too.
To install it - back out of the garage. Start the engine and leave it running. Insert the update CD and wait. There are
some long delays
where it seems to have hung - just leave it along. It will ask you if you want to update from 20.02.01 to 23.04.41,
Press the OK button
then let it do its thing. It will take about 10 minutes. During that time, the radio will shut off turn on - do nothing,
and update.
The next two updates are for NAV units - you will not be offered the choice to do them. The fourth update will let you
do it - the instructions
on the CD label say to press cancel and to not install that update. I followed the instructions.
This is only for radios with Software version older than 23.04.41. I have loaded a lot of CDs so far and almost all
work, but there are some
that don't show the graphic and a few that show the wrong graphic. I think the database has errors. The newest CD I
put in was dated 2002.
The oldest 1982. If you put in a brand new CD, it won't show the artwork until the next Gracenote update for the
radio - which you'll have to
ask Chrysler about if interested. I don't know how often they release them.
FAQ:
Q: yep, mine is 20.02.1. Where did you get the disk? From the dealer? I've read people saying the dealers will charge you
labor to install.
I just want to get the disk myself.
A: Any Chrysler, Dodge and Jeep dealer parts dept will sell the disk - just bring the part number with you (and $40.00)
Tip:187
MyGig NAV Screen "AutoMode" (via Vin57)
So I was driving the car the other night and realized that the NAV screen wasn't in night mode. I went into the menu
and checked the setting it was set for "Automode", but it hasn't changed. I pressed on night mode and the screen
changed, pressed back to "auto mode" and it just went bright or "daytime mode".
So now I figure great, what’s wrong with my radio? I thought why not try the dash dimmer control? Well that was
the appropriate fix.
Parade Mode:
Basically, if you rotate the light control all the way up into the first click, (second click turns the overhead lights on)
its what they call "Parade Mode" it max's out the brightness of the dash and apparently overrides the "AutoMode"
feature on the MyGig radio.
So if you like your dash bright and still want the night screen on the MyGig just rotate the dial till just before the
first click and the Automode setting on the MyGig will still function and your dash lights will still be bright. See also:
Tip:188
New Product: High Performance NAG1 Transmission Kit
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Paramount Performance is proud to announce the release of its newest product:
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
High Performance NAG1 Transmission Kit
Paramount has already sold over a dozen of these with great success.
Some of the competitors at LX and Beyond are currently running very well with this transmission upgrade.
This kit was the number one request of Builder Bill at LX & Beyond.
The Kit is designed for
LX & LC below 550 rwhp
Jeep SRT8 below 475 whp
The NAG1 Transmission Kit is meant to be professionally installed. It is NOT a “do it yourself” kit. We do
have these IN STOCK for immediate shipment.
High performance NAG1 transmission Includes:
Stage II Valve body
Mercedes AMG clutches and steels
(NOT Chrysler (made in China crap) or aftermarket)…these are the real deal.
Mercedes gasket and seal kit.
Mercedes oil filter.
Visit the Product Page for more information: High Performance NAG1 Transmission Kit
FAQ's
Q: May be a silly question, but for a 3.5L NAG1 like I have, would this kit work for me if, say, I was to
put in a larger motor?
Or do I need a whole new trans just to have this kit installed?
Also, would the GC-475hp apply to me because I am at AWD or would the RWD-550hp be a more
accurate top end hp limit?
A: I just built an upgraded 3.5L NAG1 for a guy. You only need 2 additional pieces (which I stock) and you have a
High Performance NAG1!
550rwd top end hp limit is because the main issue with Jeeps is their weight (HEAVY) and their transfer case is much
different than yours. No biggie.
NAG1 Fill Levels Critical?
On filling and checking the NAG1, oh yes, they are VERY sensitive to the correct fluid level.
Too little and you create foam by sucking air into the fluid, too much and the fluid gets into the rotating assembly and
foams the fluid.
Obviously, foamy is a bad thing as it compresses where transmission fluid is non-compressible.
Tip:189
Dodge Challenger Body Repair Manual
For those individuals who may be interested in the in's and outs of Dodge Challenger Body Repair work, here is a
great site to start with;
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https://a.srs20.spx.com/OEM/Chrysler/en-US/Product/81-316-0856PDF/Flipbook/index.html
Tip:190
Dodge Challenger Custom Leather Interior Upholstery Upgrade kit
This vendor provides complete replacement leather quality kits for both front and rear seating in our Challengers!
Upgrade your 2008 - 2011 Dodge Challenger factory cloth interior to brand new Leather with LeatherSeats.com. This
kit was built in single-tone Red leather with contrasting grey double-stitching. Whether you have factory cloth or a
fully loaded SRT8 with factory leather, LeatherSeats.com has the package for you. This LeatherSeats.com leather
trimmed interior kit includes everything you need for replacing all of your factory cloth on both the front and rear
seats.
For more information or free leather samples call TOLL FREE 1-866-NEWSEAT!!
Here is a video showing their products! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUjQF6m-LwE
Want custom seating leather?
Go to www.LeatherSeats.com
Tip:191
How to wire AUTO ON heated seats when remote started
Thanks to[jjar277260] for posting his solution.
For those in very COLD climates, you can appreciate the interior seats getting heated when remote starting your
Challenger!
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You know you will like this when you jump in the vehicle and find nice warm seats waiting for you.
To do this you will need the following;
1 small SPST toggle switch,
3 - 12VDC SPDT relays ,
2 - 10K ohm resistors,
3 - small diodes and
2 - 1K micro-farad capacitors
They come on when remote started if the switch on closed and the seats stay off if the key is used to start the car.
The circuit feeds a momentary ground signal to the heated seat switches during engine cranking to simulate you
pressing the switch manually.
Now, when starting the car with the key the run start output energizes the center relay to kill the ground
in the momentary circuits.
Note the following pins to tap into are;
PIN 29 of connector C102
PIN 23 of connector C3 (TIPM)
PIN 3 of LH heated seat switch
PIN 3 of RH heated seat switch
For those who already know electrical, you can purchase all the required parts at your local Radio Shack
and mount the 12VDC control relays on the available printed circuit boards (#276-150) as well.
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Connector (C102)
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TIPM Module
TIPM connector (C3)
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
Tip:192
What is MOPAR?
The Evolution of a Trademark.
In the spring of 1937, this activities council was working on the creation of a product name to put on cans of Chrysler
Motor Parts antifreeze that was being used in their cars. The group, after many suggestions, came up with a simple
name that would be easy to remember: a combination of the words Motors and Parts hence the word... MOPAR.
Read more at this link: http://www.turbinecar.com/mopar-history.htm
Tip:193
Oil fill and overflow warning!
There seems to be a little oil fill characteristic that is showing up more and more these days as service tech's at
dealers, oil change shops and even those industrious Challenger owners who want to do their own oil changes. We all
know about the super tight oil filters placed on our vehicles at the factory, but if you don't watch out and be careful,
you will also see another oil "issue". This occurs when FILLING the engine after draining.
Note the OIL FILL cap and entry point to pour fresh oil. This picture below shows a RED cap on the oil filler tube, right
behind the throttle body assembly. Not the red cap on the plastic radiator overflow tank.
NOTE the vent tube going on over to the air filter from the same vicinity. If you dump the oil into the filler hole to
fast or quickly, an air bubble will occur beneath the oil stream and oil will be forced over into the vent tube running
into the air filter or CAI. Many owners have realized this in finding oil in their air filter boxes but do not realize how
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the heck it got over there. This is especially true if you buy oil in bulk (like a big 5 QT. jug) and dump one end of the
jug into the oil filler tube opening, there is a very good chance you will have a fill (speed) issue and dump some oil
over into the air filter.
Here is a picture (thanks to Peelin') to show the oil cap (filler) and vent tube relationship.
Again note the OIL FILLER CAP fill opening and (just below) the vent return line running over into the CAI filter box.
In short, take your sweet time about filling the 7 quarts of new oil going into the engine, to avoid
any overflow issues.
Tip:194
SRT Front Springs on R/T
I did this suspension modification early on within just a few months of purchasing my 2009 R/T (Auto).
I did not like the ride height on the front end and the fast cornering was a tad sloppy for me, so I purchased a
pair of new SRT-8 front springs (part # 5181354AA) and I paid about $90.00 for a pair.
I had these installed at my dealership at the same time as I was having a HOTCHKIS sway-bar kit installed as well.
Hotchkis 22107 - (Hotchkis Performance Sway Bar Kit)
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The combination of SRT front springs lowered the front end about 1 - 1/4in and the front/rear sway bar kit really
tightened up the corning well.
The front end is noticeably stiffer and taking a corner at speed is much more stable and tighter. I think this should
have come from the factory
like this, but I know everyone's taste is different in ride and quality.
If I had a personal suggestion for anyone wanting to do this, the springs are all you need, the mechanic will have to
do a front end alignment afterwards, and my mechanic who did the alignment said that dropping the front end 1+
inches did require a re-alignment but I had enough link adjustment left to bring it into spec.
If I had an even stronger suggestion for anyone going to do this, get the Hotchkis Performance Sway Bar kit and have
this done at the same time!
The vehicle will drive like a totally (better) vehicle. You do not need SRT rear springs as these are the same (height)
as the R/T rear springs.
Only the front springs are different (lower/heavier), as the rears are the same height but about 6% less rate.
Here is a FAQ about the SRT spring change out.
SRT front springs on RT
Q: I've seen several people do this and I love the look. Thinking about doing it I'm just worried about the life of the shocks.
Several post have said it will reduce the life of the shocks, is this true? How is the ride quality after?
I have some bumpy roads on the way to work. Can the SRT shocks be installed with the springs?
What is the part # for SRT springs?
A: SRT-8 front springs part number is 5181354AA. (about $95.00 pr. depending on source). It WILL NOT reduce the life of
the shocks.
Ride quality is excellent, firm but not awful. This is a great, easy, relatively inexpensive mod. Go for it!
__________________
Q: Does anyone know where I could get the springs installed in the DFW area? I asked the dealer and they will not do it.
A: Try a different dealer. Sounds like the one you have is not mod-friendly, which could be bad.
Either that or a brake/suspension shop. Around here we have full service tire shops that do all kinds of suspension, brakes
and exhaust work.
I had no problem finding shops that wanted to do it. The local Dodge dealer didn’t snivel a bit. They just want the work.
__________________
Just learned that the rear R/T and the rear SRT springs are the same spring height, so only the front springs are different.
This will work if you want to only lower the front and not the rear. So, if you want to drop the whole car 1.7 inches, don’t go
the SRT route.
The dealer just called and will be removing the already installed SRT springs and putting back in the R/T stock springs.
__________________
SE and R/T auto share the same spring in the rear and the R/T manual is 6% less and the SRT is a whole lot more.
2009 Dodge Challenger - Suspension Turning and Challenger Versus Mustang Comparison - Features - Motor Trend
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/coupes/112_0809_2009_dodge_challenger_testing/comparison_tables.html
Article also says the SRT runs a whole bunch more jounce and rebound. so I highly doubt that you will get the "same"
performance from just changing springs
alone. But, for those with the R/T and you want to lower that front end, give the vehicle a slight old school "rake look", add
a larger rear tire and viola, you
have a different look as well!
Tip:195
Hotchkis 22107 - Hotchkis Performance Sway Bar Kit
Improve the cornering and straight line performance. Larger sway bars will control body roll in the corners and plant
the car in the straights.
All are finished in a gloss black powder coat and come complete with polyurethane bushings and endlinks (exc.
Corvette).
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Sway Bar Kits
Enhance the cornering performance of your Challenger with a set of Hotchkis Sport Suspension sport sway bars. The
Hotchkis sport sway bar package increases front/rear roll stiffness giving the car crisp, quick turn-in response and
balanced handling.
As delivered the Challenger has excessive under steer and limited roll control. Sport sway bars give the driver the
ability to rotate the car on corner entry and steer with the throttle when necessary. The dreaded under steer is
eliminated and the handling becomes comfortably neutral with added traction during cornering.
Hotchkis Sport Suspension Sway Bars feature a durable powder coat finish, polyurethane bushings, and special,
greasable rear brackets.
Link: http://www.jegs.com/i/Hotchkis/515/22107/10002/-1
Tip:196
BLUE LED Foot well Lighting
TJGS writes;
Underneath both seats you will find a grey colored connector. It is mounted under the seat with a slide lock clip. The
cable coming out of the floor and going to it will be the one to disconnect. You will find a skinny strip in the center to
push inward and this will release the connector. You will know you have the correct one if the lamp in the seat back
goes out.
You are looking for a yellow wire with a white stripe. This is the positive of the seat back lamp. Now this is where it
gets tricky, they have an early, late model wire coding.
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Basically you are looking for a black, black with white stripe or black with orange stripe wire. This will be the
negative wire. You may even find two black wires, use the black with orange stripe if you do.
Before you splice, take the lights you are going to install and verify by plugging them into the connector. Positive
lead to yellow with white stripe and negative lead into the black or black with stripe to make sure it lights.
My method of "tap" splicing is to take a razor blade and shave the insulation all around without "breaking" the wire. I
then solder the connection and insulate it with tape.
LED Strips or Sticks?
Vendor LINK: http://www.xoxide.com/led-sunlight-stick-blue.html
These hard units are 12 inches long and contain 18 LED's. They do come in 6 inches and 4 inches by other
companies. You can buy them in flexible tubing or rigid tubing.
I used the rigid so I could mount and tie wrap them to the existing cable running in front of the seats.
These are 12vdc and are found on computer many "modding" sites. They are called bright sticks, meteor lights, sun
lights, laser strips but are all the basically the same.
I mounted them at a downward angle of 15-18 degrees. The blue projected on the black carpet gives it a purple
effect. Not too dim and not too bright, just right. IMO.
For folks that like red LED's!
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Tip:197
National Geographic Channel Dodge Challenger MegaFactory Documentary
National Geographic Channel MegaFactories!
National Geographic Channel's Documentary Megafactories - Dodge Challenger Build
Category: Education
Megafactories - Dodge Challenger - Part 1 of 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ancqE5qgw6A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e4SkvlYuLNs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llbvYhtLjLA&feature=related
Tip:198
Dodge Challenger (Classic) Freedom Commercial and its making
Dodge Freedom Commercial (Classic)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ezk0e1VL80o&playnext=1&list=PLF991979364CB7AFC
Behind the scenes on Dodge Freedom Commercial
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLa6NGduJ_c&feature=autoplay&list=PLF991979364CB7AFC&
index=21&playnext=2
Tip:199
Dodge Channels 2011 Challenger Keyless Enter-N-Go Video Documentary
2011 Dodge Challenger Keyless Enter-N-Go system
http://www.youtube.com/user/dodge?blend=9&ob=5#p/u/0/awvdu2W23X8
Once is all you need to press the START button to kill the engine. Many owners forget this and press the START
button to kill the engine more than one time and can inadvertently place the START/STOP switch in the IGNITION ON
position, this will run the battery down if left on unintentionally. So look at the instrument cluster to see IGNITION
state upon leaving vehicle, especially if you hear a CHIME sound when opening the door to exit.
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08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
Tip:200
2011 Dodge Challenger HomeLink System Documentary
Dodge Channel’s documentary on the HomeLink System and its programming features.
http://www.youtube.com/user/dodge?blend=9&ob=5#p/u/13/ijzR_iup93M
Tip:201
Is it possible to add the KeyLess GO System to an R/T?
Normally this is NOT a dealer installed "option" as it is time consuming, and a tad expensive as you are going to have
to purchase a lot of equipment that comes with the system to have it fully functional. Most have absolutely no idea
what is involved, and frankly this, although possible, is quite involved.
For those who have a very knowledgeable Dodge Service Tech, he will recognize and know that can and cannot be
done but some hardware and software need to be installed before you can have a working system. The link below
details all the ins and outs of doing this KEYLESS-GO installation. Some Tech's like a good challenge!
To detail this, go to this link below for more information; http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge
/Add_Keyless_GO.htm
Tip:202
Rear Taillight bulb replacement procedures
For those who have a problem with how to replace a rear taillight bulb (3157KR) this will assist in stepping you
through the disassembly procedure that many have a problem with.
I would have liked to have seen a basic procedure listed in the Challenger Owner's Manual, but alas there is nothing
there to point you in the right direction.
Click on the next link listed below to see what you need to do to replace either rear brakelight bulbs or get to those
pesky tough to get parking light bulbs in the rear center bar.
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/rear_taillight_removal.htm
Tip:203
Installing larger rear rubber on your R/T!
I was very happy with the skinny tires and look on my new 2009 Challenger R/T. I looked at what others had done
and what look I wanted after I lowered the front end with the SRT Spring setup (approx. 1.25 in). I wanted to get an
old school rake or staggered look and I believe I have exactly what I was looking for now with the NITTO 555 on the
rears!
Here is the link: http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/BiggerRearTires_RT.htm
Tip:204
FOBIK (Key Fob) disassembly, battery change.
There may come a time where you will need to change FOBIK battery or disassembly the unit for cleaning or
troubleshooting.
Here is a good link to assist you with this task.
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/FOBIK_DISASSEMBLE.htm
Tip:205
Custom Embroidered Headrests, etc.
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Jina's a class act on doing custom headrest, console, rear console, etc. embroidery.
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
Here is her email address for quotes: jinasse@sbcglobal.net
Link to picture album of many samples of her custom work: http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ock%20Designs/
Link to Jina's Embroidery FaceBook page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Jinas-Sew-Simple-Embroidery
/164418110288530?sk=info
I can personally attest to the "quality and great look" of her work as I had the headrests above done by her and was very
pleased with the work.
Tip: 206
Possible fuel/saddle tank level issue? Troubleshooting!
Quote:
Originally Posted by James P.
Today on I 95 cruising home from the gun range in Vero beach FL the R/T just shut off. Well armed at least. Not
electrical, all systems functioning. ECU read outs functioning. Fuel gage said just under 1/4 tank. Not into red yet
or warning. System said 71 mi to empty. I could hear pump running in tank trying to pressure up system once
stopped and ignition cycled. It would try and fire a bit. I checked everything that could be checked on side of I 95.
No error codes. All fuses good. Hot, no shade. In Florida we have what's called "Road Ranger Service" Tax money
well spent. I looked up number on I Phone (*347 ) and about an hour they showed up. He had me turn Ignition on
and he verified gage not empty. He put about a 3rd of a gallon maybe half gallon in and said try it. Pump came
right up to pressure and cranked right up. I shut down and almost begged for another half gallon. Nope. Next exit 3
miles, Truck stop there. You will make it. So windows open, got it up to coasting speed just in case and I did make
it fine. Gauge never into reserve red area. It held 18.4 gallons at pump. Still under full warranty until Feb 2012
but no error code, pretty sure that would be waste of my time. A fluke maybe? I never run to low but have before
counted on computer mileage countdown to within 25 or 30 miles and Red area triggered the get gas now dummy
message. No problem in past. Just wondering has anyone else experienced before. Next time I get low I have a safe
2 gallon fuel can to put in trunk, Ill try it again. First problem in 2 yrs 8 months. My car only has 10400 miles. I
buy all my fuel at same station for 3 Hemi's. The others are run much more. Never had an issue with Sunoco fuel.
This station had new tanks put in less than 5 yrs ago. I won't ride around ith a gas can until I get below 1/4 tank
again. This time of year it's not too hot to roll windows down. Dealer won't touch car unless it's got a code to read.
There is no code stored or showing. Even if I need to idle in drive way under 1/4 with fan blowing into grill with
hood up. If it won't repeat hard to trouble shoot. I think it was a one-time fluke. Ill post when I run that low again.
I don't think it will repeat or it would have set a error code.
James;
Take a look in your Extended EVIC data display. Look/monitor the two (Left/Right) sides of the fuel tank for a possible
level issue.
Extended EVIC data display page;
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- Key ON. (Doesn't matter if the engine is running or not).
- Hold the compass and music note key on steering wheel together for about 5-6 seconds
- Move the up arrow (or down arrow if you prefer) on the left hand side of your steering wheel.
For this exercise, we'll be toggling the "up" arrow
- First stop is a Digital Tach, if you're running your engine, you can see how steady it idles. Also some other digital readings.
- Next toggle is temp and a cool Chinese character believe it or not. My son, who takes Mandarin lessons, informs me it is
the symbol for "peace". It might mean "piece", but we're not sure.
- Next toggle is compass digital readings
- Next toggle is MinL and MinR stuff. This is sensor information on left/right fuel tank levels. The Lt and Rt unit number is
in PINTS (8 pts = 1 gal.).
The total fuel capacity is 19 gals.
You have TWO level sensors and I believe BOTH must show low level before you get a warning. You can monitor the two
separate levels.
Look at this: Tip:166 Fuel System, Fuel Pump Module
And Oh, there is no "fuel filter" so to speak in our Challengers. All we have are mesh screens on the pumps. This is unlike a
lot of other vehicles I have owned in the past with bonafide fuel filter cartridge/canister setups. Perhaps there will be an
aftermarket filter cartridge that will become available in the future and an easy install.
Tip 207: Throttle Body, maintenance and cleaning issues.
Good Mobil oil link to save for cleaning TB’s. Procedures, operations, proper cleaning fluids and great details for the do-ityourselvers.
http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/car_care/diy/cleaning_engine_throttle_bodies.aspx
Tip 208: Keyless Entry System Exposed
Here is a link below to a page especially setup to index all the tips concerning the Dodge Challenger Keyless Go
System. There have been some updates and changes to this system with the new Dodge Keyless Enter'n Go system,
which added the touch sensors on the door handles to open the door if touched AND you have your FOBIK on your
person. Same for the trunk open features.
There have been a number of issues with this NEW Keyless Enter'n Go system and water entry into door handles and
erratic operations. Note these fixes are addressed in TSB's released to address this issue. See the Dodge Challenger
TSB page index (Tip:153) to note these repair items.
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Keyless Entry System Exposed Link
More tips
08-Oct-12 12:50 AM
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Web page created 07/17/09
Last updated; 9/21/2012 M.W.Davis
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Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

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