May/June - Fertrell

Transcription

May/June - Fertrell

65
YEARS
May/June 2011
www.fertrell.com
Fertrell Notes & Quotes
The Fertrell Company:
A Friend of Nature Since 1946
Tracy Mattocks, Editor
Notes from the President’s Desk:
Dave Mattocks
Inside this issue:
What can be more exciting than new green grass, fresh
flowers, budding trees and sunshine?
Employees celebrate owner’s
75th birthday
2
of new life? The opportunity is now to join nature and
Welcome New Dealers
3
celebrate this amazing restoration of true beauty.
A few tips for more efficient
dairying
What can possibly be more invigorating for man than signs
Gone with the coming of warm air, sunshine and rain are the remains of the
past season. We have a fresh start and new conditions to work with. Only
memories remain to challenge us to be better stewards of our possessions.
How great is the opportunity to raise our personal standards and achievements!
Whether we grow gardens for the family, produce for the markets, lawns for
beauty or flowers simply for pleasure, it is good to reach for new heights. The
satisfaction of working with nature comes at the end of the season. Beauty is
always in the eye of the beholder.
So opportunity for real joy comes when we join hands with nature. Our Creator
is made real in all life forms. Man has been assigned to care for nature and
enjoy its benefits.
As your summer unfolds and brings forth its abundance, may you experience
much pleasure.
The apostle John wrote, “Beloved, I wish above all things that thou mayest
prosper and be in health, even as thy soul prospereth. “ 3 John 1:2
This is my prayer for you and yours.
Tips from the front
Thank you to all our customers who are faxing/emailing your orders to the office. It is extremely helpful and saves a lot of frustrations by freeing up the
phone lines for people who are trying to call in with questions.
When requesting freight quotes, please keep in mind that these are always just
estimates prior to the actual ship date. With the cost of gas rising, the quotes
can change some, even within a few days, as the fuel surcharges go up. Thank
you for your understanding.
Hoof Health
4
Spring Specials Continue
5
Pastures and Cattle, Are they
ready?
6
Management of Necrotic
Enteritis
7
Bedding poultry with Peat
Moss
8
New Product - Professional
Grade Peat Moss!
9
Peat Moss (Bedding source,
organic matter for soil)
Fertrell home gardener recommendations
10
Fertrell home gardener recommendations continued
11
The pigs are coming
12
Market place
13
Upcoming Events
14
Employees celebrate owner’s 75th birthday
On February 25th, 2011 Fertrell Employees celebrated the owner’s 75th birthday with him. David Mattocks has
been with the Fertrell Company for over 30 years.
Page 2
Welcome New Fertrell Dealers:
ACE Home & Leisure - 89 Central Ave., Wedgewater MD 21037 (410) 969-5050 petep@acehh.com
Johnsen's Farm & Country Store - 40 W 467, Route 38, Elburn IL 60119 (630) 232-9004 Phlyjohnsen@hotmail.com
PRIMEX Centers Inc. - 435 W Glenside Ave. Box 1199, Glenside, PA 19038 (215) 887-7500 david@primexgardencenter.com
Davis Florist - 405 Hoffer Road, Elizabethtown PA 17022-9002 (717) 361-8907 www.davisflorist.net
Cottonwood Creek Farms - 15099 CR 59.5, Merino, CO 80741 (970) 580-2020 mattkautz@kci.net
Heaney's Heaven Farm & Feed - 23423 Botkins Road, Hockley, TX 77447 (281) 210-4007 mark.s.heaney@gmail.com
Snyders Nursery - 114 S Montour St., Montoursville, PA 17754 (570) 368-3377
Genesis Gardens - 668 Midwest Rd SE, Bolivia, NC 28422 (910) 253-7934
Groggs Green Barn - 10105 E 61st Street, Tulsa, OK 74146 (918) 289-5654
Fresco Green Building Supplies Inc - 1520 Commerce Drive, Lancaster, PA 17601 Phone (717) 519-8860 Fax (717) 519-8872
North Slope Farm - 1146 Sunnyside Drive, Holtwood, PA 17532 (717)284-4282 norslope@gmail.com
A few tips for more efficient dairying: By Ralph Stauffer
In this time of economic challenges, we have to watch expenditures carefully.

Leaky water bowl valves mean wet feedstuff and forages. Wet troughs are a good place for molds and
bacteria to grow, especially in warm weather.

Dirty cow beds mean an increase in mastitis flare-ups. Besides the cost of treatment, the loss of production and quality bonuses are something to consider.

Brushing the cows is always a good idea. The cows feel and look better.

Daily milking times should be kept consistent as much as possible.

A cow with a greedy neighbor cow will not get adequate feed to maintain good condition and production. A
simple board between them will help.

Regular hoof trimming will make the cows more comfortable, both standing and walking. And remember comfortable cows milk better.
Paying attention to details will make your operation more profitable.
Page 3
Hoof Health: by Jean Litchard
A hoof is a complex structure that plays a key role in many aspects of an animal’s overall health and productivity.
Maintaining sound hooves can reduce economic losses and increase profits for the future. Biotin and zinc may be
added to feed to harden hoof tissue. Kelp is especially good to feed for strengthening hooves.
Incidence of lameness tends to be higher in free stalls than straw yards. Lameness causes tremendous loss, primarily in dairy cattle. Milk production is lowered - the cow simply does not want to walk the distance for food or
water with sore feet. When you have cattle with sore feet, try to give them a pasture by themselves with food
and water access. This will make their recovery faster.
Cattle should be allowed to move at their own pace. Sometime when we are in a hurry to milk, we push and overcrowd our animals, causing them to fall and injure themselves.
Can you imagine carrying around 1000+ pounds with sore feet?
Exercise lots, especially in the spring, have a tendency to become muddy. Nothing is more damaging than excessive moisture to cows’ hooves. Penetration of small stones and grit pose a real problem in the spring. Splits in the
cows’ hooves will cause problem infections. Therefore, it is important for cattle to be moved frequently when lots
become muddy.
If cattle do not have adequate shade during the hot weather, they will not produce enough sodium bicarbonate
by chewing their cuds. This will cause respiratory alkalosis. Heat stress will then cause lameness. Additional sodium bicarbonate in the ration will aid in the reduction of rumen acidosis.
Keep hooves trimmed. An ideal time for trimming is during the dry off period. Hoof trimming equipment must
be disinfected after each use, as the equipment has the potential to transmit hoof disease, especially hairy heel
warts. This infection can be spread throughout the herd if not caught early.
Below are some of the things we put into practice on our farm when hoof infection was present:
1.
Be sure to wash out the infected hoof before treating. Soak the hoof in a warm water, Epsom salt wash.
If you are working alone, it may not be possible to get the hoof into a bucket of warm water. Sometimes what
gets soaked is the farmer. I usually used a hose to rinse out the hoof. After washing, I used a variety of potions. Take a large syringe of garlic oil and squirt it on the infected area. Redmond Clay (made into a paste
with water) can be spread with a spatula onto the foot. Drawing salve can also be spread on the sore hoof.
After coating the hoof with one of these products, wrap the hoof in a disposable baby diaper. Keep the cow
tied in overnight.
2. Use a dry hoof bath: Mix 80% hydrated lime with 20% copper sulfate. Make up this mixture and allow cows
to walk through the dust box every day. Keep the dust box filled in order for the hooves to be dusted between and around dew claws. This is a great mixture to dry up hairy heel warts.
As with all things that are farm-related, it takes time to eliminate a problem. Your perseverance in performing
these “baby steps” will provide the end reward of healthy hooves for your cattle.
Page 4
Spring specials continue through end of June
Water soluble Nutri-Sil A live bacteria, added to
silage and baled forages to
assist the fermentation
process. Nutri-Sil causes
the forages to retain more
of their moisture, protein
and energy value and increases the palatability
and digestibility of the
harvested crop. 10% introductory discount from
now through June 30th,
2011.
Multi Bloom – all natural,
all purpose plant food/
hydrolyzed fish fertilizer.
For all plants, shrubs,
fruits and vegetables. Non
-burning. It feeds the
whole plant, providing fast
and long lasting greening.
(not for certified organic
growers). No fish odor.
Available in 32 oz hose
end sprayer and 64 oz.
concentrate and are 20%
off while
supplies last.
Mega Green - All natural
lawn fertilizer, hydrolyzed
fish fertilizer. Mega Green
is made from a unique process using farm-raised catfish to produce a nonburning, natural fertilizer.
The catfish protein contains the 3 primary plant
nutrients - nitrogen, phosphorus and potash. No fish
odor.
Available in 32 oz hose
end sprayer and 64 oz.
concentrate and are 20%
off while supplies last.
Fertrell Foliar 2-3-1 qt
– All natural (not certifiable) fish fertilizer that
contains 13% amino acids.
These amino acid proteins
stay in the topsoil, and
the nitrogen-based proteins are slowly broken
down from bacillus bacteria. The portion of the
spray that comes in contact with the soil will multiply and improve the soil’s
micro elements. For use on
lawns, turf, vegetables,
fruit trees and shrubs.
20% discount while
supplies last
Bobbex Deer Repellent –the most effective long lasting
spray on the market. It is environmentally friendly, using
all natural ingredients that stop deer from browsing. IT
WILL NOT WASH OFF. Bobbex Deer Repellent can be
used on all ornamental shrubs and flowers, and around
vegetables.
Bobbex is a safe and highly proven natural deer repellent.
It safely disrupts the foraging pattern of deer and deters
them from browsing on your property. It is effective in
protecting your plants from Whitetail deer, Blacktail deer,
Mule deer, Sika deer, elk and Moose.
Bobbex Rabbit Repellent – is also available in very limited
quantity in 32 oz, ready-to-use and 64 oz concentrate.
30% discount while supplies last.
Page 5
Pastures and Cattle, Are they ready? by Jeff Mattocks
1.) Are your pastures ready for your cows?
2.) Are your cows ready for your pastures?
No, I didn’t lose my mind, and I am not talking in riddles for no reason. These are two very important questions
to consider. In the many places I visit, I rarely hear farmers and ranchers give consideration to the minerals
and balance of those minerals in their pasture soils. Many cattlemen don’t give much credit to the value of their
pastures and the minerals that their cattle will get from those pastures, which for me as a livestock mineral
supplement salesperson is Good News!
First off, “Are your pastures ready for your cows?”
When the grass and forage mineral content is low and indigestible, the livestock will consume more free choice
minerals when available. They do have a certain sense, as do most creatures, of deficiencies in their diet and
metabolisms. Their natural tendencies will be to try to correct these imbalances and deficiencies, whether that
be done by eating unusual weeds, licking dirt under the fence line or even drinking another cow’s urine. What I
am getting at is that you can either pay to put minerals into your soil for the plants to take up, or you can put
minerals directly into a mineral feeder or feed mix to correct the imbalances and deficiencies in your livestock’s
diet. Keep in mind - option #2 of adding minerals to your cows’ feed costs more than fertilizing the soil.
Now, regarding question #2, “Are your cows ready for the pasture?”…
Since spring pasture forages tend to be high in nitrogen (not protein) and fairly high in potassium due to poor
soil mineral management, your cows will need an ammonia (nitrogen) neutralizer and a laxative to offset the high
potassium, high lignin grasses. This means you will need to feed magnesium and sulfur, Epsom salt-magnesium
sulfate for the best protection against bloat and grass tetany. So, back to the question. Have you started
feeding extra magnesium sulfate to your cows to get their digestive tracts adjusted for those early spring pastures? Have you increased their protein levels so their rumen bacteria are ready for the onslaught of nitrogen
(not protein)?
You have to wonder why I keep saying “nitrogen (not protein)”. You all need to understand that laboratories (all of them) measure the total nitrogen content of forage or other feed ingredients. They take the nitrogen level of the sample and multiply times 6.25 to determine the estimated or predicted protein level.
Let’s take a look at this method:
The lab measures the total nitrogen in the pasture sample. It is 4.16% nitrogen. They multiply by 6.25 (not
sure why) to get 26% protein (4.16% x 6.25 = 26%). So, is your plant nitrogen a digestible protein or not?
What are your mineral levels in the plant and soil? It has been shown that soils with higher levels of calcium,
phosphorus and sulfur will enable the plant to make more amino acids. Did you know that it takes three amino
acids to make a digestible protein molecule? Over half of the known amino acids (12 of 22 known essentials) are
sulfur- based. This means that if your sulfur is low, your plant’s ability to make amino acids is low, and the
amount of truly digestible protein is low. You could feed the cows water-soaked straw and urea and it would
provide the same effect as early pastures with uncorrected high nitrogen protein.
Just some ruminations for you!
Page 6
Management of Necrotic Enteritis: by Don Brubaker
Signs of a problem
I have seen Necrotic Enteritis in poultry rear its ugly head as early as seven days of age and as late as
twenty-one. The mortality rate from this disease rises sharply and stops as quickly as it started, ranging from
almost zero to 45 percent. Signs to look for in your flock are depressed feed consumption and activity. Their
feathers will ruffle up, their necks will disappear into their bodies, and it will appear that they are cold. Their
droppings will range from a very dark, reddish black to a dropping that has a lot of blood in it. If you were to post
one of these chickens, you would find blood spots in the intestinal wall.
Treatments
1. Fertrell DFMs
 Mix 1 lb of feed grade DFMs in a ton of feed.
 Mix 10 gms of the water soluble DFMs in enough water so that it is consumed in 12 hrs.
2. Copper Sulfate*
 Mix 1/5 oz. or 1 tsp of copper sulfate per 5 gal of water.
 Mix 4 oz. of copper sulfate per 4 gal of stock water and meter out at a rate of 1 oz. to a gal.
3. Raw milk
 Use separate containers to offer the milk, like egg flats or pie tins.
 Make a mash with enough milk to last 1 to 1½ hours per day, once a day for 7 days. Use 1pt to 1 qt per
100 birds depending on the age of the birds.
 Use only enough raw milk so that it will be consumed in 1 to 1½ hours. Use once a day for 7 days, 1pt to 1
qt depending on the age of the bird.
4. Yogurt
 Put yogurt on top of or mix in the feed at a rate of 1 qt per 200 for birds 1 -3 weeks of age or 1 qt per
100 chicks from 4 wks old to market.
5. Salt*
 Mix 1 tbsp salt per 5 gal of water.
 Using a mediator, in 5 gallons of hot water dissolve 6 lbs of salt and meter it out at 1 oz. to 1 gallon.
6. Burn Hazel (Stinging Nettle)
 Feed Burn Hazel fresh cut and young liberally to the birds.
7. Garlic
 Mix one toe of crushed garlic in 5 gal of water, best if left to steep over night.
8. Apple Cider
 Mix 1 tbsp of apple cider vinegar per 5 gal of water.
9. Citric Acid
 Mix one pack of citric acid to 256 gallons of water.
10. Bedding
 At first sign of the disease, change bedding immediately and keep top dressing the new bedding daily to
cover up droppings.
11. Eggs
 First week - 1 dozen hard boiled eggs per 100 chicks.
 Second and third weeks - 1½ dozen hard boiled eggs per 100 chicks.
* Do not add to water for more than three days in a row. Always follow up with some form of direct-fed microbial.
Page 7
Bedding Poultry With Peat Moss: by Fred Forsburg Livonia, NY
I have received much information, both through the APPPA Grit and especially from interactions with members
of APPPA. One of the most useful and effective of these tips involves the use of peat moss as bedding in the brooder.
Background: We had leg problems in our birds that showed up weeks out of the brooder, and I was having a
problem associating this situation with feed or brooder issues. Much discussion revolves around feed as a source for leg
problems in broilers, but as I already feed a superior organic product containing Fertrell’s Nutri-Balancer, I was frustrated by these circumstances.
Now into our third year raising certified organic, pastured broilers, I was becoming confident in our brooder
management, as we has substantially improved on our first year’s efforts by delivering to pasture almost 100% of the
chicks on a consistent basis. But the leg problems plagued us, and it seemed no matter what efforts were applied, they
were less than successful.
In a telephone conversation about fertilizer with Jeff Mattocks at Fertrell, I mentioned this problem. His response was “peat moss”. As we also raise vegetables, we already had peat moss on the property, so I gave it a shot.
One flock through the brooder was all it took for me to banish wood shavings forever. This was the end of the
wet and smelly bedding, especially during the cooler months when we must keep a tight lid. It was also easier to clean
out the brooder, as I frequently just raked the (used), two-week old bedding into some thin spot on our lawn, where it
essentially disappeared into the grass. The used wood shavings were much heavier than peat moss and most unpleasant
to handle.
But this was about leg problems. Now having raised over 6000 birds in the last three years, our leg problems
have essentially disappeared!
According to Jeff, compacted wet litter is the principle cause of “Viral Arthritis”, which is a bacterium in the
bedding that enters the hock joint, eroding the Achilles tendon and leaving the bird immobile and lame. Peat moss outperforms wood shavings, as it is naturally sterile due to its acidic nature, inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. It
is also far more absorbent, which helps to keep the bedding dry and non-compacted.
As with most things, there is a downside, and the downside with peat moss is the dust. We had not noticed the
dust to this extent previously, as we used it in a wetted mixture for growing transplants. The very fine dust thrown up
by the actions of two hundred busy feet in the brooder gets into literally everything: electrical outlets, heat bulbs, etc.
My remote thermometer stopped working because the transmitter unit in the brooder was plugged within three days.
But what really concerned me most were my lungs! I used a mask upon entering the brooder building, but this was frequently inconvenient, and I suffered for it later. I had searched for and inquired about less dusty peat moss but was
unsuccessful.
Early this spring while visiting our professional greenhouse supplier, I noticed a ripped bag of peat moss and
noticed that it contained a different quality of sphagnum moss! This peat moss was a very light brown in color and felt
spongy when compressed. I purchased a bag and found it to be almost dust free as compared to the black stuff we had
been using, with the added benefit of improved absorbency.
I had previously contacted the Canadian Peat Moss Association for information on their product but had never
received a return telephone call. This time, armed with this new information, I persisted and discovered that, indeed,
there are multiple levels of quality in their product. When I described the dark, almost black and dusty moss I had
been using, I was interrupted with “Oh--you are using retail moss”. Peat moss comes in a whole range of quality levels,
and the lowest levels are destined for the retail market, where it is intended as a product to incorporate into the soil.
The better quality levels are intended to be used and handled by professional growers and thus cannot be dusty. Expect, however, to find only “retail” moss in the local garden centers. The peat moss that I am currently using states
“Professional Quality”. Ensure that you purchase 100% sphagnum peat moss - not a grower’s mix. The bag may also state
“Blonde” or “Yellow”. According to the information I received, the higher quality, professional moss is 3-10 times more
absorbent than the lower quality retail moss. The added benefit is that you can use less in the brooder to offset the
minor difference in cost for the better quality product.
I have more technical information on peat moss from the trade association that I will be happy to share via
email to anyone seeking same. Email me at fforsburg@rochester.rr.com.
Page 8
New Product - Professional Grade Peat Moss!
Professional Grade Peat Moss is now available from Fertrell in
55 cubic ft. bales, average weight approximately 900 lbs. The bales
come on a pallet. These highly compressed bales measure 52 inches
long x 42 inches wide x 43 inches high. This peat moss is a professional grade not typically available to the consumer. The texture has
larger particle sizes than available retail peat moss, which minimizes
dustiness. (It is still dusty, but not as bad as the locally available
stuff.)
Fertrell won’t be keeping a large inventory of these bales, but
we will bring it in as necessary to fill orders. Please allow 7-10 days to
fill orders if the peat moss is out of stock at the time of order. We
will be offering this for a limited time to see how well it sells. Check
with your local Fertrell dealer for pricing and availability.
Peat Moss (Bedding source, organic matter for soil): By Orin Moyer
People often ask me how to get more organic matter into their soil. The answer isn’t simple.
There are many different ways to increase soil organic matter - cover crops, green manure, compost, manure,
and, finally (not a common answer) peat moss. Although we don’t often think of peat moss as an affordable solution for adding organic matter to soil, it can be. With the new organic bedding requirements soon to be in place,
bedding sources need to be checked and reviewed. Peat moss does meet the organic requirements as a certifiable
input for your farm.
There are several good points to using peat moss for bedding dairy cattle. It will work best when there are cow
mats in place. One of the best reasons to use peat moss is that it is completely sterile. This means that each time
you clean the stalls and re-bed, you create a fresh, sterile environment for the barn. This means lower SCC and
less possibility for mastitis. Peat moss is also extremely soft and comfortable for the cows.
Peat moss comes in large, compressed bales about 4 X 4 (55 cu. ft.). Because it is compressed, it goes a lot farther for bedding than what you might think. Typically one bale will last approximately three weeks for a fifty-cow
herd if putting down about a one inch layer on the stalls.
Building organic matter in your soil will increase overall soil health and nutrient-holding capacity. By using peat
moss for bedding, you are directly adding organic matter to the soil. It also helps to mineralize the nutrients in
manure so that they will be plant available but not leachable. That also means you would lose less nitrogen when
spreading manure, because the peat moss is able to mineralize the nitrogen.
There are lots of choices when it comes to bedding for dairy cattle. Although peat moss may not be the correct
choice of bedding for many dairies, on farms it can work very well with great results, both in the barn and in the
field.
Page 9
Fertrell Home Gardener Recommendations
Aragonite 38% Ca
1 lb. 100 per sq. ft.
11 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft.
apply spring or fall
Blue N 5-1-1
if no manure is added
Side dress 5 lbs. per 100 ft. row
1 tbsp. per 3”pot
1 tsp. per additional 1 inch
7-8 oz. per 4 qts. Soil
2-3 lbs. per 100 sq. ft.
½ lb. small bush
¼ lb. small bush
½ lb. small bush
½ cup/hole mixed into soil
spring/fall
at planting
2 in. high
every 3 months
every 3 months
mix
at planting
following spring
spring/fall
spring
after bloom
spring
at Planting
5 lbs. per 100 ft row
1 tsp per 4 inches of pot
for every additional
one inch in diameter of pot
add one 1 tsp
at planting or side dress
1 lb. per small tree or shrub
4-6 oz. Per flowering plant
spring and fall
spring
Super N 4-2-4
Lawns
Vegetables
House plants
Potting soil
Strawberries
Flowers
Roses
Azaleas & Evergreen
Bulbs
Super K 3-4-7
Tomatoes, Peppers,
Vine crops, Egg plants
Fertilizing potted vegetable
Holly Care 4-6-4
hollies, dogwoods, azaleas,
gardenias, marigolds, ferns,
hydrangeas, rhodendrons,
pachysandras
Fertrell #1 Fish Emulsion 5-1-1
Lawns
1 qt. per 10gal water/250 sq. ft
Flowers
1 tbsp. per 1 gal. water
Vegetables
1 cup per 2 gal. water
Shrubs
1 tbsp. per qt. water
Trees
½ pt. per 1 gal. water per small tree
1 ½ pt. per 2 gal. water per large tree
Page 10
3 times per year
every 3 weeks
every 3 weeks
Every 4 weeks
2 times per year
2 times per year
Fertrell Home Gardener Recommendations continued
Fertrell #3 Foliar feed 2-1-1
Vegetables & Flowers
1 oz. per 1 gal of water
Lawns
1qt. per 1000 sq. ft.
Fertrell liquid 4-2-4
Alfalfa and grass hay field’s
Tomato’s on plastic with Boron
added to the blend
Berry Mix 4-2-4
strawberries, brambles,
blackberries, grapes,
blueberries, gooseberries,
currants, elderberries
Rose Food 4-2-4
Greensand
Lawns
Vegatables
Fruits
1 gal min 2 gal max
Per acre with 20 gal
Water per acre
Foliar Feed
In to 5 gal of 4-2-4 add 1 qt Boron
of that take one gallon and add that
to 200 gallon of water
Spray at a rate of 20 gal per ac
spring or fall
2-4 oz. per plant
1-2 oz. per plant
spring
after each bloom cycle
10 lbs. per 1000 sq.ft.
10 lbs. per 1000 sq.ft.
5 lbs. per 1” diameter of tree
spring/fall
at planting
spring and/or fall
Earth Friendly all Purpose 5-5-3
Lawns
Vegetables
Side dress 5 lbs. per 100 ft. row
House plants
1 tbsp. per 3”pot
1 tsp. per additional 1 inch
Potting soil
6-7 oz. per 4 qts. Soil
Strawberries
2-3 lbs. per 100 sq. ft.
Flowers
Roses
½ lb. small bush
¼ lb. small bush
Azaleas & Evergreen
½ lb. small bush
Bulbs
½ cup per hole mixed in soil
Page 11
apply evenings
when budding, pod
forming & fruiting
3 times per season
spring or fall
at planting
2 in. high
every 3 months
every 3 months
Mix
at planting
the following spring
spring or fall
spring
after bloom
spring
at planting
The Pigs Are Coming: by Don Brubaker
So where do I put them - in the barn or on pasture, running free?
For our world, this is a no brainer question. Out to pasture they go!!
Many of us have one farm neighbor who would get very angry if our pigs got into their back yard, flower beds, or even worse,
the front yard. Can you imagine your neighbor calling to tell you that your pigs are sunning themselves around their pool?
So, the first thing you will need to do is make sure you have a secure fence around the perimeter of the pastured area. This
can be done with electrified, high tensile fence with strains close enough to the ground to prevent even the littlest of pigs
from going through. Another great solution is to use woven wire fence, as this choice is the most secure. You can add single
strain wire, poly wire or barbed wire close to the ground, using insulators to fasten the wire to the fence post. Most
neighbors will enjoy your pigs as long as they are not on their side of the fence.
Pigs will need three vital things from you: food, water and shelter. Feeders can be bought that are weather-proof so that the
feed can be kept fresh longer. I would recommend putting feeders on a skid so that they can be moved just a little or from
paddock to paddock to help keep the pasture from being rooted up too much in one spot. I also recommend that you supply one
feeder hole per four pigs. To keep it simple, a fifty pound pig can be raised to a finish weight on a 16% diet. Pigs will consume
feed at a rate of 7% of their body weight daily.
shelled corn…………… 965
roasted soybeans…. 400
oats………………………...500
fish meal……………….... 50
Rumi Cult 40……………….25
Swine Grower……………..60
Total
2000
Water is by far the most important nutrient you can offer a pig, so keep it clean and readily available at all times. During gestation, a sow will consume one to one and a half gallons daily. When lactating, a sow can consume as much as five and a half
gallons of water daily. Growing pigs will consume, depending on their age, as much as two and a half gallons of water daily. In
hot weather these amounts will be increased substantially.
Every pig needs shelter from the heat and cold. They also need a shady place to get out of the sun. This can be done by using
a flat bed hay wagon and building canopy on a frame large enough for all the pigs to get under. Here are some recommendations
for shade.
Sows………………………………………....20 sq. ft.
Boars………………………………………….40 sq. ft.
feeder pigs under 100 lbs…………..4 sq. ft.
feeder pigs over 100 lbs……………..8 sq. ft.
Winter time can be extremely hard on pigs without proper protection from the wind and cold. I have seen all kinds of shelters, from wood-framed huts to fiberglass huts. In these huts you will need adequate bedding and space so that pigs won’t pal
up and smother each other. The bedding needs to be deep enough so that the pigs can be separate from the cold ground or
concrete below and the cold air from above. As their manure is mixed with the bedding, it will begin to compost and make heat
to help keep them warm. Below are some recommendations for a bedded pack:
Sow………………..…..……..14-18 sq.ft.
20 to 40 lbs…………....…….4 sq. ft.
40 to 75 lbs.…………………..5 sq. ft.
75 to 150 lbs. ………………..7 sq. ft.
150 to 225 lbs………………...9 sq. ft.
225 to 300 lbs……………….12 sq. ft.
Page 12
The Farmer-to-Farmer Marketplace:
Connecting farmers to farmers for products they want to sell or need to buy. You must be a Fertrell customer, and any crops or animals must have been fertilized or fed with Fertrell products. We will not get
involved in any monetary transactions. The ad may contain grains, forages, livestock, equipment, Include name,
address, email, phone #, type of product, and any information that is pertinent to the ad. First come first
served. The ad will be run twice, and then you will need to resubmit if you wish it to be included again.
Email jeffmattocks@fertrell.com or don@fertrell.com or call the office at 717-367-1566 by 1st of month before the next publication.
Hay, Forages, Grains and Livestock
1st through 4th cutting certified organic Alfalfa and Alfalfa/ Grass Mix Big square bales,
2009 certified organic hay in big round bales, Alfalfa / Grass Mix,2009 Clover Hay in big
round bales Test result available . Darren Filburn Ohio (937) 608-2950 (T1010)
Equipment:
Poultry Processing Equipment Ashley, Pickwick, Featherman, Poultryman pickers and scalders. Vacuum packing
machines, shrink bags, knives, kill cones and any equipment for poultry processing. We ship anywhere; Jim
McLaughlin, Cornerstone Farm Ventures, Norwich, New York (607) 334-2833 or on the web at
www.chickenpickers.com (P0107)
Rolle Bros potato harvester, two row -12 acres on primary chain and gearbox, new tires in 2008, $2000 (631)
722-4241. Chris Wines Long Island, New York (T0311)
Meat and Produce and other food items:
Maple Syrup From Certified Organic Farms Taking orders for the 2011 season.
Lester J. Byler, 8506 Bundesburg Rd., Middlefield, Ohio 44062-9612 (440)272-5930 and Harvey Miller, 7552
Girdle Rd., West Farmington, Ohio 44491 (440) 693-4311 (T0311)
Wanted:
50+ tillable acres in southwestern PA or Ohio - with or without a house, under $500,000 (724) 350 5891.
Email: Randymetz.jr@gmail.com May be it's a lost cause, but we are having to sell our 32 acres as the Boro ruled
gardens are ag and we are zoned residential. We have to remove the tractors & equipment ASAP. It's not worth
the money to appeal their ruling, better to just move on. Randy Metz, Jr. (T0311)
Investors wanted for a three year purchase of an organic feed supplement and fertilizer company in the Central
states. We would perform the sales operation and train persons. In three years, it will be time to retire. If interested, send questions to Fkuhn85264@aol.com. (T0511)
Page 13
PRSRT STD
US POSTAGE PAID
ALABAMA MAIL SERVICE
PO Box 265
Bainbridge, PA 17502
DECATUR, AL 35602
717-367-1566
FAX 717-367-9319
We’re on the web
www.fertrell.com
A Friend of Nature Since 1946
65
YEARS
1946-2011
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Upcoming Events:
May 22nd, 2011 10am – 4pm - Mill River Supply - Presenting our first Look, Listen and Learn Natural/Organic
Seminar, Westmoreland Sanctuary, 260 Chestnut Ridge Road, Mount Kisco, NY
Admission is free However, we are asking for a donation – be it monetary or through the volunteering of your
time, a garden tool, birdseed, etc! Questions? Call Lee at (914) 666-5774
July 1st – 2nd 2011 - 18th Annual Horse Progress Days, to be held on the Henry King Farm, 155 Spring Garden
Road, Kinzers, PA. For more info, contact (717) 768-8313 http://www.horseprogressdays.com/
July 19th, 2011 - Woodlot Pork: Raising Pigs in Their Natural Environment - Forks Farm, Columbia Co, PA
Sponsored by Fertrell. For info, visit www.pasafarming.org/FarmBasedEducation or call Rebecca at (814) 3499856, ext 20
September 28th, 2011 - Briars to Bovines: Reclaiming Abandoned Farmland, at Provident Farms, Tioaga Co,
PA. Sponsored by Fertrell. For info, visit: www.pasafarming.org/FarmBasedEducation or call Rebecca at (814)
349- 9856 ext 20
Page 14

May/June - Fertrell

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