Wandering Chef, Julie Reiner in Maui

wander valais, switzerland
HOTELS
Switzerland’s first W Hotel,
in the village of Verbier, is a
refreshing addition to the country’s luxury accommodations.
Glass fireplaces make the rooms
a modern retreat, and Spanish
chef Sergi Arola collaborates
with local farmers to create
Swiss-style tapas.
From $539. wverbier.com
At the low-key lodge Cordée
des Alpes (above), another
Verbier newcomer, rooms have
Alpine views of the surrounding
ski area, Les Quatre Vallées, as
does the Moorish-themed spa’s
indoor pool.
SKI. SOAK. REPEAT.
From $496. hotelcordee.com
BY ADAM H. GRAHAM
Contrary to popular belief, the Matterhorn isn’t an only child.
It’s one of a string of 47 skyscraping mountain peaks in the Swiss
canton of Valais. The skiing, of course, is epic in this sunny,
bilingual region on the Italian border. But the area is also home
to scenic spas, ancient Roman baths, and rugged passes.
OUTDOORS
From Saas-Fee’s Spielboden
ski area, the world’s highest
underground metro train barrels
up to the Längfluh Glacier,
where snowboarders and skiers
carve with abandon. The less
brave (or less crazy) come to
the 11,482-foot-high station
for the kitschy-cool revolving
restaurant, the ice tunnels, and
the exhibits about the glacier.
“FOR LESS THAN 10 SWISS FRANCS, WE RODE THE LIFT FROM
ZERMATT TO GORNERGRAT. SIT OUTSIDE THE RESTAURANT WITH
A COFFEE TO ENJOY THE VIEW OF THE MATTERHORN.”
Jacob Frischknecht, AFAR.com
BAKERY
SOAK
DETOUR
It would be a sin to leave Valais without tasting
the ubiquitous pain de seigle valaisan, a rye
bread with its own AOP (Appellation d’Origine
Protégée). The Verbier bakery Pâtisserie de la
Poste makes one of the best versions. Grab a
loaf and sit down with a coffee before hitting
the slopes. The bread is often served with gooey
raclette cheese and charcuterie.
When the Romans arrived here in 15 b.c.e., they
brought their thermal bath culture, and you can
still see the ruins. But newer bains thermaux
also abound. The village of Saillon has a Rivière
Thermale, like a water park’s lazy river, lined with
grottoes, steam rooms, and saunas (bainsdesaillon
.ch). In Ovronnaz, end the day in bubbling thermal
pools while watching the alpenglow recede across
the mountain range (ovronnaz.ch).
The two-hour ascent—by snowshoe or crosscountry ski—up the Great St. Bernard Pass is
humbling, but the 30-minute ski down is a thrill.
At the top, the Great St. Bernard Hospice continues to be run by priests devoted to providing
respite for travelers. Refuel on bone-warming
mushroom soup, local cheeses, and quaffable red
Dôle wine from grapes grown in the valley below.
Route de Verbier Station 16, 41/(0) 27-771-64-25
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1946 Bourg-Saint-Pierre, 41/(0) 27-787-12-36, gsbernard.net
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wander maui
GUIDE
One of America’s most scenic
drives, the Road to Hana is a
windy 52-mile stretch of highway that connects Kahului with
the remote town of Hana. To
best enjoy the drive and avoid
the inevitable traffic (you’ll
cross more than 50 one-lane
bridges), start early and make
plenty of stops—especially
these three—along the way.
BY JEN MURPHY
Hawaii’s second-largest island has surprises in every direction.
In the north and south, new resorts, restaurants, and arts centers
mesh tradition with today’s trends. On the rugged east and west
coasts, historic sites such as Kahakuloa Hawaiian Congregational
Church, above, are tucked among the volcanic crags.
1.
KEANAE PENINSULA
When the Haleakala Crater
erupted hundreds of years ago, it
created this lava rock peninsula
a half mile past mile marker 16.
Make a detour to visit the old
Hawaiian village of Keanae,
where you can watch locals
harvest taro and pound it into
the traditional dish poi.
2.
TRAVAASA HANA HOTEL
Instead of turning around when
you reach Hana, book a cottage
at Travaasa and take your time
exploring Maui’s east side.
The hotel’s general manager,
a fourth-generation Hawaiian,
teaches guests traditional
throw-net fishing in Hana Bay.
From $350. travaasa.com/hana
3.
ART
TALK
Maui Arts & Cultural Center (known locally as
MACC) hosts film festivals, exhibitions, and concerts
throughout its 16-acre complex. Events range from
performances by such Grammy Award–winning acts
as Los Lonely Boys (January 24) to a design exhibit
on the ancient Hawaiian art form of kapa, a fabric
made from plant fibers (January 21 to March 9).
When Google Maps and Siri fail, ask a local for
directions. Rather than point you north or south, a
Hawaiian might refer to the island’s natural features.
If a native islander tells you that a surf shop is on the
mauka (mau-OO-kuh, and mau rhymes with pow)
side of Waipua Street, it means it is toward the mountains, or inland. If it’s makai (MUH-kahy), it means it
is on the ocean side of the road.
1 Cameron Way, Kahului, (808) 242-2787, mauiarts.org
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LAULIMA FARM STAND
Go for a swim at ‘O‘heo Gulch,
just past the town of Hana near
mile marker 42, then stop by
this nearby farm stand (above).
Strawberry papayas and lettuces
from the 13-acre plot of land
show up in baked goods, pickedto-order salads, and smoothies
blended by bicycle power.
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OCEANVODKA
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WANDERING CHEF
Mixologist Julie Reiner keeps true to her Hawaiian
roots with her cocktail programs at New York’s
Flatiron Lounge and Brooklyn’s Clover Club. “I always use the freshest juices and spices,” she says.
Now, Reiner, who grew up on Oahu, brings her
big-city techniques to Maui. As beverage director
of Andaz Maui, Reiner sources the best spirits. “I
want to raise the bar on how cocktails are done in
Hawaii.” Here, Reiner shares her island favorites.
“One of the first things
I did with my bar staff
was take a trip to the
new Ocean vodka
distillery in the middle
of a sugarcane field.
On a tour, we learned
how the vodka is
produced. The water
comes from 3,000 feet
below sea level and is
organically purified.
On its own, the water
has a creamy texture,
which carries through
in the vodka. We got to
taste cocktails under a
beautiful vine-covered
trellis. I’m using Ocean
vodka at our bar in
cocktails such as the
Beijing Peach.”
4051 Omaopio Rd.,
Kula, (808) 877-0009,
oceanvodka.com
ROADTOHANA
DA-KITCHEN
“When I visit Maui, I
crave the foods I grew
up eating, such as Kalua
pork, which is cooked
in an underground
oven called an imu.
Da-Kitchen, a locals’
spot in Kihei, has really
authentic dishes, some
of which are an acquired taste. Hawaiians
grow up on Spam, and
you’ll see it in musubi,
grilled Spam and rice
wrapped with nori. At
Da-Kitchen they deepfry their version. I also
get the teriyaki chicken
plate lunch with rice
and macaroni salad.”
2439 S. Kihei Rd. #107A,
Kihei, (808) 875-7782,
da-kitchen.com
“When traveling to
Hana, the road is the
journey. Many tourists
are so eager to reach
Hana that they miss
the best parts of the
drive. Take your time.
I used a great book
called Maui Revealed as
my guide. It told me
where to hike to beautiful waterfalls. You
also pass tons of stands
selling fruit and snacks.
I always buy something because it’s a way
to support the locals
and sometimes you’re
rewarded with a treat
like delicious mango or
banana bread or a perfectly ripe avocado.”
MAMA’SFISHHOUSE
“Mama’s is one of my
favorite Maui spots.
The restaurant has
beautiful woodwork
and an old plantation
house feel. There are
two bars, one with a
great tiki motif. The
atmosphere is classy
but casual. You can’t
beat the location,
overlooking Kuau Cove
on Maui’s north shore.
Ask for a table with a
view of the water. I
order a fish such as
mahi mahi, opa, or
uku. On my last visit,
my mom ordered the
crispy Kalua duck,
which was fantastic.”
799 Poho Pl., Paia,
(808) 579-8488,
mamasfishhouse.com
“SKYLINE ECO-ADVENTURES RUNS
A ZIP LINE TOUR ON THE MOUNTAINS ABOVE KA‘ANAPALI THAT
DELIVERS A SPECTACULAR VIEW.”
ILLUSTRATIONSBYMICHAELHOEWELER
PHOTOSFROMLEFTCOURTESYOFANDAZMAUIPETERLIU
Kyle Ellison, AFAR.com Local Expert
HOTEL
DINING
The stylish new Andaz Maui (above), on Mokapu
Beach, has a full calendar of outrigger canoe
lessons and talks by marine biologists and coffee growers. Local ingredients show up in chef
Masaharu Morimoto’s dishes—and at the ‘Awili
spa, where guests can choose foraged plants at the
apothecary to blend for a custom body treatment.
Kupu Maui (right), a roving farm-to-table pop-up
restaurant, hosts communal meals for up to 60
people at farms and other al fresco locations.
Chefs prepare a multicourse dinner from island
ingredients and donate the proceeds to charity.
Tickets sell out fast, so book ahead. Dinners are
usually held the third Saturday of the month.
From $599. maui.andaz.hya .com
kupumaui.org
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wander sayulita, mexico
HOUSE RENTALS
Dos Chicos (above) a four-bedroom
residence of two structures connected by a rooftop bridge. Upstairs,
under a thatched roof, the outdoor
kitchen, living room, and soaking
pool offer endless panoramas.
From $570. casadoschicos.com
2. Casa Ninamu is a cobalt-blue,
open-air jungle villa, complete with
infinity pool and rooftop sleeping lounge, that sits on a virtually
private beach cove. The owners will
happily hook you up with the best
guides and plan private dinners.
From $500. teitiare.com
SHOP
“La vie est belle” is a mantra for the
Mignot sisters, who call themselves
“Les Gazelles.” At Pacha Mama,
they sell their own gypsy-inspired
designs of Tahitian black-pearl
jewelry, soft leather bags, and
brightly embroidered caftans. Stop
by their adjoining gallery, too.
Calle Delfin 4B, 52/(01) 329-291-3468
MEXICO’S SURFING SAFARI
BY MEGHAN MCEWEN
The dense jungle meets a string of pristine Pacific
beaches at Sayulita, a laid-back Mexican surf town
with dusty roads, stylish storefronts, and fresh
oysters served with a dash of hot sauce. Fill your
backpack at the organic farmers’ market and head
out to bask on a beach all your own.
HANGOUT
TRAIL RIDE
CAFÉ
With many trails unmarked, it’s wise to explore the
jungle and remote shoreline by guided horseback.
One of the bilingual cowboys at Mi Chaparrita will
help you find the best beaches and ocean vistas.
Make the climb up Monkey Mountain for miles-long
views of the Bahía de Banderas to the south and
Riviera Nayarit to the north.
Along the busy stretch of Avenida Revolución,
Sayulita Café is a sophisticated, unpretentious
spot where chef-owner Miguel Muro turns out
regional specialties such as molcajete azteca and
mole. Nab a sidewalk table, start with a round
of margaritas, and order what the locals eat: The
chiles rellenos have a cult following.
Iguana Gardens, once a sanctuary
for the prehistoric-looking creatures,
has been transformed into a space
that’s equal parts public garden,
bar, and community center. The
outdoor lounge, strewn with colorful
wicker chairs, is the place for yoga,
smoothies, movies, and fierce but
friendly ping-pong matches. Heads
up: Iguanas still lurk in the trees.
52/(01) 329-291-3112, michaparrita.com
Avenida Revolución 37, 52/(01) 329-291-3758
Calle Marlin 59, 52/(01) 329-291-3575
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1. Up the hill from town stands Casa
wander seoul, korea
ART
The thousand-year-old Korean tradition
of decorative knots becomes high art
in the studio of Kim Eun-Young, where
she weaves and ties intricate patterns
of flowers and insects out of silk thread.
Kensington Tours can arrange a visit with
Kim or other traditional artists.
(888) 903-2001, kensingtontours.com
MIND, BODY, AND SEOUL
BY BRANDON PRESSER
SPAS
1. The Park Hyatt Seoul contains a real-
life spa in the sky, with a lap pool on
the 24th floor (above) and minimalist
treatment rooms where acupressure
massages relieve post-flight tension.
606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, 82/(0) 2-20161234, seoul.park.hya.com
2. Spa as the locals do: Spend an afternoon at a jjimjilbang, a public bathhouse
such as Happy Day Spa, with cauldronlike hot tubs, kiln-stoked saunas, and
areas to just relax on the heated floor.
685 Jayang-dong, Gwangjin-gu, 82/(0) 2-452-5656
3. Clear your mind with an overnight
session at Geumsunsa Temple, where
you’ll welcome the dawn with 108 yogic
bows. On a hill in central Seoul, the
grounds are a welcome escape from
the city’s urban center.
Guki-dong, Jongno-gu, 82/(0) 2-395-9911,
geumsunsa.org
MARKET
DINING
HOTEL
Korea puts its own spin on sashimi at the
Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market. Bargain
for a piece of raw fish (hoe, pronounced “hway”)
amid the lanes of fishmongers, then head upstairs
to have one of the in-house restaurants garnish
your prize with generous sides of kimchi.
A steaming bowl of ginseng chicken soup is just
what the doctor ordered—no matter what ails
you—and To Sok Chon is Seoul’s top spot.
Each portion contains an entire boiled chicken,
accompanied by roots and herbs. Despite the
quantity, you’ll hear parents scolding their children for not polishing off every bite.
In the historic Jung-Gu district, the
Shilla Seoul gleams after a recent renovation. Like a beach vacation spot in
the city, the hotel now has two mammoth
swimming pools, one fed by a waterfall.
Up top, the quiet restaurants and library
lounge make a serene perch.
85-1 Chaebu-dong, Jongno-gu, 82/(0) 2-737-7444
From $300. shillahotelseoul.com
688 Nodeul-ro, Dongjak-gu, 82/(0) 2-814-2112,
susansijang.co.kr
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SEEAGUIDETOHEALTHANDWELLNESSINSEOULafar.com/seoulwellness
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Seoul’s concrete towers punctuate the skyline like the
rat-a-tat-tat of Morse code. In this uncompromisingly
massive megalopolis, at first it can seem impossible
to find a moment’s peace. But under the surface of
modernity lies a place of healing with wellness traditions
that date back a thousand years.