01-1 künye 09
Transcription
01-1 künye 09
CONTENTS TOKAT: THE CITY ROOTED IN TIME HISTORY - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -10 THE ORIGIN OF THE NAME, TOKAT - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -14 BRIEF HISTORY OF TOKAT - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -18 GEOGRAPHICAL CHARACTERISTICS - - - -20 TOKAT STEP BY STEP - - - - - - - - - - - - - -24 COUNT DRACULA IS IN THE TOKAT CASTLE - - - - - - - - - - - - - -26 TOKAT KALES‹ (CASTLE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -26 GÖK MEDRESE (MADRASAH) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -28 TOKAT MUSEUM - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -33 SÜMBÜL BABA ZAV‹YE & TÜRBES‹ (CONVENT & TOMB) - - - -35 NUREDD‹N ‹BN SENT‹MUR TÜRBES‹ (TOMB) - - - - - - - - - - - -36 HIDIRLIK KÖPRÜSÜ (BRIDGE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -36 fiEYH MEKNUN ZAV‹YE & TÜRBES‹ (CONVENT & TOMB) - - -37 TAfi HAN (INN) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -38 P‹R AHMET BEY TÜRBES‹ (TOMB) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -39 HOROZO⁄LU ZAV‹YES‹ (CONVENT) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -39 MEYDAN CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -39 TRADITIONAL DOMICIL ARCHITECTURE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -41 YAZMACILAR HAN (INN) AND HAND PAINTING ON MUSLIN - -44 AL‹ PAfiA CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -46 VEZ‹R AHMET PAfiA MESC‹T & TÜRBES‹ (MESJID & TOMB) - -47 AL‹ PAfiA HAMAMI (HAMMAM) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -47 SULUSOKAK (STREET) 800 YEARS AT 800 STEPS - - - - - - - - -48 AL‹ TUS‹ TÜRBES‹ (TOMB) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -48 SULU HAN (INN) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -49 ARASTALI BEDESTEN (BAZAAR) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -49 KAZANCILAR MESC‹D‹ (MESJID) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -49 TAKYEC‹LER CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -50 YA⁄IBASAN MEDRESES‹ (MADRASAH) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -50 DEVEL‹K HAN / DEVECILER HANI (INN) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -51 ULU CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -52 ALACA MESCIT CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -53 PAfiA HAMAMI (HAMMAM) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -54 PAfiA HAN (INN) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -54 ERENLER TÜRBES‹ (TOMB) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -54 BEHZAT CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -55 CLOCK TOWER - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -55 contents LAT‹FO⁄LU KONA⁄I (MANSION) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -58 ATATÜRK HOUSE AND ETNOGRAPHY MUSEUM - - - - - - - - - -59 MEVLEV‹HANE (LODGE OF MEVLEVI DERVISHES) - - - - - - - - -59 BEY SOKA⁄I (STREET) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -60 KNOCK KNOCK… GONG GONG… TICK TICK - - - - - - - - - - - - - -60 PROMENADES AND PLATEAUS - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -61 PAZAR - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -63 MAHPER‹ HATUN KERVANSARAYI (CARAVANSARY) - - - - - - -64 BALLICA MA⁄ARASI (CAVE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -65 HACI S‹NAN CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -66 HAL‹L BEY CAM‹‹ & HAMAMI (MOSQUE & HAMMAM) - - - - - -66 LAKE KAZ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -67 ARTOVA - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -69 SULUSARAY - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -73 SEBASTOPOL‹S - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -74 THE CHURCH - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -75 ROMAN BATH - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -76 CITY WALLS - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -76 STRUCTURE WITH MOSAIC FLOORING - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -77 OPEN AIR MUSEUM - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -77 SULUSARAY THERMAL SPRING - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -78 Z‹LE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -81 THE PREHISTORIC AGE AND Z‹LE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -82 WRITTEN HISTORY - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -82 Z‹LE ULU CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -88 BAYEZ‹D BESTAM‹ CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -88 HOCA ‹SHAK CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -89 ELBAfiO⁄LU CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -90 TURHAL - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -93 TURHAL KALES‹ (CASTLE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -94 ERBAA - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -97 S‹LAHTAR ÖMER PAfiA CAM‹‹ ( MOSQUE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - -100 HACI AHMET HAMAMI (HAMMAM) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -101 contents CONTENTS YEfi‹LYURT - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -79 CONTENTS N‹KSAR - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -103 N‹KSAR KALES‹ (CASTLE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -105 YA⁄IBASAN MEDRESES‹ (MADRASAH) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -106 YA⁄IBASAN TÜRBES‹ (TOMB) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -108 BÜYÜK HAMAM-KRAL KIZI HAMAMI (HAMMAM) - - - - - - - - -109 LEYLEKL‹ / YILANLI KÖPRÜ (BRIDGE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -110 N‹KSAR ULU CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -110 ÇÖRE⁄‹ BÜYÜK CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE / DERVISH LODGE) - - - - - -111 KIRK KIZLAR / KIRGIZLAR KÜMBETi (DOME) - - - - - - - - - - - -112 MEL‹K GAZ‹ TÜRBES‹ (TOMB) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -113 HOUSES OF N‹KSAR - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -113 ÇAM‹Ç‹ PLATEAU - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -114 BAfiÇ‹FTL‹K - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -115 ALMUS - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -117 ALMUS DAM LAKE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -119 REfiAD‹YE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -121 CASTLES - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -122 LAKE Z‹NAV - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -123 SELEMEN PLATEAU - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -124 REfiAD‹YE THERMAL SPRINGS - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -124 TRADITIONAL CULTURE - - - - - - - - - - - -126 HANDICRAFT - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -129 THE TURKISH BOW AND ARROW IS WAKING UP FROM ITS CENTENNIAL SLEEP - - - - - - - - - - - - -135 TRADITIONAL ATTIRE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -135 TRADITIONAL FOLK DANCE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -139 TRADITIONAL CUISINE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 141 VERBAL CULTURE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -146 CHRONOLOGY - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -148 BIBLIOGRAPHY - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -153 USEFUL INFORMATION - - - - - - - - - - - - -155 MAPS contents Door Knob Yeflil›rmak With the advantage of having been built on the fertile lands of Yeflil›rmak, Kelkit and Çekerek Basins, the city of Tokat, which carries the traces of the several civilizations it harbored throughout its 7500 years of history; has been molded by a very diverse and rich cultural structure and has hosted 14 states and several seignior states. On every piece of land of Tokat it is possible to find historical artifacts that belong to several periods throughout Hatti, Hittite, Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman eras. Our historical and cultural treasures like Hittite settlement, Maflathöyük Mound, Comana ancient city, Sebastopolis, which carries the traces of Roman and Byzantine eras, Niksar the capital of the State of Danishmend in history, the Tokat Castle, Mahperihatun Caravansary, Taflhan (Inn), Bedesten (old bazaar), Mevlevihane (lodge used by Mevlevi dervishes), Bey Street, Atatürk House and many more make our city even more beautiful. Our traditions, food cul- ture, clothing culture, folkloric values, copper craftsmanship, kerchief making, rug, kilim and textile weaving that have been preserved for centuries, are still being carried out with the same discipline and enthusiasm today. As an alternative to the sea, sand and sun combination, the historical texture that is the basis of cultural tourism, handicrafts like kerchief making, copper craftsmanship, a life style that stuck with traditions, natural beauties like caves, plains, lakes and plateaus has given our city an important privilege. As the people of Tokat our primary purpose will be to promote and present this heritage we have to our target visitors both nationally and internationally. We hope you to visit our city Tokat, “a city of history, culture and nature”, and experience the historical, touristic, cultural and natural beauties via this city guide. fierif YILMAZ Governor of Tokat HISTORY Bey Street A view from Tokat This city where “peaceful, honest people live” has mainly risen and developed on the plains that the medium size rivers like Kelkit, Tozanl›, and Çekerek formed. Since it is at the same sea level as the shortest mountains of the southern shores of Black Sea, the rain clouds can reach it and cause a very nice climate to form. For this reason Tokat is neither as rainy as neither the Black Sea region nor it is as dry as Central Anatolia, it rather has a clima- te in between with all seasons in balance. Since the 3 parallel valleys that the 3 separate arms of Yeflil›rmak formed are at different altitudes, there are different areas with different characteristics like Kelkit Valley (220 m) with its closer to Mediterranean climate, a little cooler Kazova (650 m), Artova (1100 m) with its closer to Central Anatolian dry continental climate. Therefore, it carries all the vegetation of Anatolia, besides the several endemic plants. Kelkit Creek history 13 The Meeting Point of Yeflil›rmak and Kelkit Creek THE ORIGIN OF THE NAME, TOKAT 14 Although Tokat which has staged several settlements, has been given different names throughout history, “Tokat” has been the most accepted and used one. However there is no clear evidence as to where the name ‘Tokat’ comes from. The origin of the name ‘Tokat’ has special importanTraditional Domicil Architecture history ce, because the historians have put a lot of effort on it. Besides the assumption that the city’s name “comes from Togay›t Turks” who are thought to have settled here, some historians like Âli Cevat and ‹. Hakk› Uzunçarfl›l› also stay close to the word “Toh-Kat” which means “the city with walls”. There are also sayings that come from metaphors like “Tok-at” which means ‘full (fed) horse’ or the place where the horses are gathered. City has been called names like Dokat, Kah-cun, Sobaru, Togat, Tokiye, Dokiye, Tukiye throughout history. The oldest recorded names of the historical city Tokat that has existed since Persian, Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine eras starting in the 4th century B.C. and of its surroundings are Komana Pontika, Evdoxia, and Dokia. Ramsay who is considered to be the source in regards to the roots of names of many cities in Anatolia said “Tokat is the ancient Byzantium castle of Dazimon”. However, H. Grego- Halit Street rie has pretty much proven that the mentioned place is “Dazmana in the southeast of Turhal”. Paul Wittek claims that Tokat is the city of Dokeia of Byzantium. One of Wittek’s evidences is that the Byzantine historian Khoniates had recorded the government center of Seljuk as “Dokeia”. In ‹bn Bibi and ‹bn’ül Esir’s writings the name of the city is “Tokat”. One of the 13th century Arabic historians Muhyiddin bin Abduzzahir had written “They went to a castle called Tokat that is 4 days away from Kayseri “The name of the city which was mentioned as Tohiya, Toqia, Tokia, and Dokia in the two copies of the Tarih-i Al-i Danishmend, which was written in colloquial Turkish in 13th century had changed to Tokat in its 3rd copy. Within the comments regarding the source of the name of the city, we come across some famous people. One of them is the Byzantium king Romanos Diogenes who was defeated at Malazgirt. The historian Michael Attaliates who is also known for his thoughts regarding the earthquakes in Anatolia tells about the arrival of Romanos Diogenes, whom Alp Arslan released, at the castle as “He conquered the castle of Dokeia and he founded his army quarters there”. Ebu’lFereç refers to the same event without using the word “conquer” by: “He went to the castle of Doqia and he settled in Doqia”. As per other historians, we come across the event as “Emperor Diogones was imprisoned here”.Sargon Erdem, at the conference that he history 15 Trefoil Judge, Iron Age Taflhan (Inn) gave for the city said that “the name Dokeia was formed by adding the Greek suffix ‘ia’, used for place names, to the word doke: “In Greek doke or dohe which is also the root of the infinitive dekomai or dehomai (to contain, to hold) means ‘bowl, pan, water pan’. It can be claimed that the Dokeia might have meant ‘bowl country’. Since Tokat is surrounded by mountains, its geographical shape is like a bowl. Seljuks called the city Darü’nNusret. When the city was taken by Y›ld›r›m Bayezid in 1392, its name was changed to Darü’n-nasr. City’s name set in the Arabic Language as Dokat and in Ottoman Turkish as Tokat. The area seen from the Castle, now quite narrowed by the modern buildings, is in fact the city’s historic square. We will go down to the most beautiful building there via K›rk Badallar (Forty Steps Stairway) from which we can see the city from a wide angle. The wide angle at the start will diminish by every step. Before walking down the stairway, you can examine the mahaleb trees over the stairway. This is where Tokat used to grow mahaleb and grapes in small vineyard gardens. Besides its significant culinary culture Tokat is known for being the only city that makes mahaleb wine. The Pervane Darüflflifa (hospital) on Gazi Osman Pafla Bulvar› also known as Gök Medrese (Madrasah) is important both as regards to getting to know a Seljuk work of art and also since, in the building which is currently a museum, we can see cross sections from Tokat’s close to six thousand years of history. Traditional Domicil Architecture history 17 Stewpot with the Brazier, Hittite Period BRIEF HISTORY OF TOKAT 18 It is known that Tokat has a history that goes back to 5500 B.C. The region that was under the Hittite rule around 2000 B.C. was then ruled by the kingdoms of Phrygia, Persia, Cappadocia and Macedonia. It was under the control of Pontus in the 4th century B.C. and Rome in the 1st century B.C. and was connected to Byzantium in 395. Tokat, being under Byzantium until the 11th century, started being raided by Turkomans after 11th century. It is said that the region became part of Danishmend land after Malazgirt War and went under Seljuks in 1175. The city was ruled by ‹lhanl› after 1243 Köseda¤ War, Eretna after 1335, Qadi Burhaneddin in 1388 and became part of Ottoman land in 1392. After separating from Ottoman rule for a period after Ankara War, it went under Ottoman rule again in 1413. Tokat was highly damaged during the Celali insurgencies in 16th and 17th centuries and was made a district of the State of Sivas in history 1863, a governorship in 1878, independent shire in 1920 and a province in 1923. Tokat was one of the most important cities in Anatolia in 12th and 13th centuries. Especially being on a region where the caravan roads (commerce route) lay helped Tokat develop in a short time and with this economic progress the city was structured with buildings of religious and social functions majority of which stood till today. It is understood that Tokat continued its development during Ottoman era. As per the registries on census of Tokat dated 1455 there were 200 Muslim and 1000 Christian, a total of 3000 tax payers. The population of the city is estimated to be around 15.000. Numbers of neighborhood units were 56. Due to the earthquakes in late 15th century and some uprisings, Tokat declined economically and its population was reduced. Its economy partly recovered in 16th century and by the end of the century the Coffee Mill, Ottoman Period population went up to 15.000 again. Evliya Çelebi, who came to Tokat in 16th century, describes Tokat as “a city with mild weather and with vineyards and gardens all around. The fruits are tasty and nice. There is a villa, pool, fountain and several fruit trees in every vineyard. The mosques, palaces and alms houses are admired by the visitors”. Tokat carried its 16th century progress into mid 17th century. As per Tournefort who stayed in Tokat in early 18th century, Tokat houses were very well built and most of them were two storey. Pavements were built to protect the basements of the houses from the rain. With the city having rich water supplies every house had its own tap. Again as per Tournefort the city had just had a fire and was under repair. As per the register of the city of Tokat dated 1772 the city had 73 neighborhood units. According to an evaluation made in 1851, there were 2.271 Muslim and 1.685 nonMuslim households in Tokat. The population is estimated to be around 20.000. In mid 19th century there were 73 neighborhood units in the city. This number, being the same as the registry records of 1772, shows that there was an economic recession in the city. This recession is also verified by the records that show the number of businesses. While the total number of businesses consisting of shopkeepers and craftsmen was 1.478 in 1827, the number of store type businesses went down to 1.300 in 1883 and 1886-87. These numbers show that the urban production performance has been at a decline. While earthquakes and Celali insurgencies affected the decline, it is understood that with the changing economic relationships in 19th century the economic progress that took place in some port cities like Samsun also had a role. After the Republic its economy became dependent on agriculture. history 19 GEOGRAPHICAL CHARACTERISTICS Kazova Plain 22 Tokat with a surface area of 9958 km2 covers 1.3% of Turkey’s land is in the Black Sea Region, in the inner part of Central Black Sea area. It has Samsun and Ordu at north, Sivas and Yozgat at south, Amasya at west. Tokat is at latitude 39° 51’-40° 55’ N, longitude 35° 27’- 37° 39’ E and 623 m altitude. Tokat is in between the valleys formed between Akda¤ (1900 m) and Çaml›bel Mountains (2020 m). Deveci Mountain (1892 m), Dumanl› Mountain (2200 m), Canik Mountains Yeflil›rmak geographical characteristics (1340 m), Bugal› Mountain (1945 m) and Mamu Mountain (1779 m) are Tokat’s other significant mountains. Kazova (20.000 hectares), Turhal Plain (4500 hectares), Erbaa Plain (6500 hectares), Niksar Plain (8000 hectares), Omala Plain (3200 hectares), Artova Plain (15.000 hectares) and Zile Plains (Total 10.000 hectares) are fertile agricultural lands and significant amount of vegetable and fruit are grown on them. The most important genetic supplies of cherry and sour cherry are in Tokat. Kelkit Creek Cerasus inkana a kind of cherry is an endemic plant of Tokat. The main plateaus are; Topçam, Batmantafl, Muhat and Dumanl› in the center, Selemen in Refladiye, Bozçal› and K›z›lcaören, Almus Babaköy and Çamiçi in Niksar. Tozanl› Creek, Kelkit Creek and Çekerek Creek run through the city. Lake Zinav, Lake Göllü Köy, Lake Kaz and Lake Almus Dam are the largest lakes and water basins of the city. Hosting many bird species, Lake Kaz is put under preservation. Lake Almus Dam is an ideal one for water sports. Tokat has hosted many civilizations, has understood the vivid green, the cool and comforting light of the endless forests that rooted in soil for hundreds of years and plains that formed in millions of years, has developed by digesting the experiences of different cultures. When you look up from Tozanl› Creek that gives the city a calm coolness with its flowing sound at the start of spring and summer, you will meet Tokat Castle sitting on steep cliffs. CLIMATE Since it is in between valleys surrounded by mountains and in the inner part of Central Black Sea Region, Tokat has the characteristics of both the Black Sea Region climate and the steppe climate of Central Anatolia. The city is hot and dry in the lower areas and cool and partly rainy in the higher areas in summer, it is cold and snowy in winter. The distance from the sea and the altitude has great effect on Tokat’s climate. For example, the winter gets more severe from north to south since the altitude increases in that direction. geographical characteristics 23 TOKAT STEP BY STEP 26 Tokat Castle (The silhouette of Count Dracula) COUNT DRACULA IS IN THE TOKAT CASTLE The legendary hero of scary movies, namely Vlad the Impaler! Vlad III the prince of the kingdom of Eflak (Romania) which was defeated by Ottomans, aka Dracula, after being held under custody first in the Castle of Kütahya E¤rigöz then in Tokat Castle together with his brother, was sent to Edirne near Prince Mehmet (Fatih Sultan Mehmet), was provided education for a period of time. Who knew he would drift away from Ottoman discipline and become a vampire. In the evening when you stand in the Hükümet Meydan› (Square) and look towards the west bastion of the Tokat Castle and move your eyes away horizontally you will see Dracula with his crown on. city center TOKAT KALES‹ (CASTLE) There is no certain information regarding the construction date and early days of use of Tokat Castle. However, taking into consideration; its position, plan, construction technique and some historical events in which it is referred to, it is concluded that the structure was built some time in 5th or 6th century A.D. Added to these findings are names like Evdoksia, Endoksia, Dokia that the castle was mentioned with. The steep cliff that the castle sits on is actually a natural castle itself. It must be this feature that had attracted the first settlers who we don’t know and some Christian groups that migrated from Komana Pontika (Gümenek) to settle here. Tokat Castle This steep cliff 9 km west of Komana is a quite safe point since it controls the narrow K›z›linifl Pass towards Sivas on one side and makes it possible to control the road to the castle via the steep G›j G›j Hill on the other. It should also be added that the cliff looks enduring against natural destructions. The castle carries the traces of Middle Age architecture in many ways. Its walls made of ashlars and rubble stone cascade as inner and outer walls and sit on masses of rocks on the east and west sides. The layout was made in order to situate the natural rock on the north side as a gate. The pentagon shaped structure was supported by eighteen bastions and the cistern on the west named “Ceylan Yolu” was made to meet the water need during sieges. Its towers, bastions, crenels and part of its walls have made it to today. There are a lot of sites inside it. While the vaulted buildings can still be seen today, only the foundations of the other buildings remain. The north and south walls are mostly damaged due to earthquakes and lack of repair. In this direction only one bastion and the walls on the main rock stand today. After seeing it from the inside as well as from a distance we can say that: Even the parts of the building that made it to today be enough to describe its magnificence despite hundreds of years of negligence and damage. Historical documents indicate that the fortress remained in the hands of the Byzantines for many years after its conscity center 27 Gök Madrasah 28 truction. The castle which was repaired and renovated during Seljuk and Ottoman eras to be used for defense also became famous as a prison and shelter for insurgents and administrators from time to time. The Ottomans, who were the last sovereigns of the fortress, called it “Çardak-› Bedevi” meaning “pergola of the nomads”, perhaps to emphasize this feature. Ebu’l Fereç writes about the kidnapping of G›yaseddin Keyhüsrev 2 by Muineddin Pervane after the march of the Mameluk Sultan Baybars to Kayseri in 1277, as follows: “He seized the Sultan and fled to the Doquia Castle.” This document is significant in that it mentions one of the names of the city in those years. GÖK MEDRESE (MADRASAH) Gök Madrasah considered as one of the important buildings of Anatolian Seljuk tribe does not have an epigraph. However, taking into consideration the time when Muineddin Süleyman Pervane was effective, city center it is assumed that it was built in the third quarter of 13th century. ‹bni Bibi writes about Pervane as follows: ‘‘After Seljuk army was defeated at Köseda¤ War in 1243 Mongolians and Muineddin Süleyman Pervane established diplomatic relationships. Mongolians admired him very much and did not deal with anyone else” Pervane the Grand Vizier who managed the state affairs between Seljuk and Mongolian sultans is known to be a person who protected erudite and sheiks, and even “a person who built friendship with Mevlana Celaleddin-i Rumi”. How developed this friendship was, could be understood from the books named Menakib-ül Arifin and Fi-hi Mafih. Mevlana’s praise for Muiniddin Süleyman Pervane and how Mevlana sent one of his caliphs Fahreddin-i Iraki to Tokat upon the demand of Pervane, have a dergah (Islamic monastery) built for him and how Mawlawi faith reached this city while Mevlana was still Gök Madrasah, Tokat Museum alive, are expressed in these books that are the oldest two sources about Mawlawi sect. It is understood from the registers that Gök Madrasah was used as a healing house till 18th century. The Madrasah was also called names among the people such as Pervane Madrasah, K›rk K›zlar Madrasah, Darüflflifa, and Bimarhane. Nameless Twins It is as hard to understand the architectural essence of Gök Madrasah as the process of building it; and it would not be an overstatement if we say, as the Tokat people do, that this is an “çelpeflük” (meaning ‘intricate’) matter. Before entering the ground floor of the Madrasah which is arranged as a museum now; let’s try to familiarize with the structure on the left at the northeast front of the building whose foundation was revealed more with the excavations in the recent years. The foundation shows that there used to be a building here similar to Gök Madrasah in regards to layout and to the thought behind the construction. To understand this building is to understand Gök Madrasah. One of the very first people who draw attention to the characteristics of these foundations is Gönül Cantay: “There is a second building at northeast of the Madrasah that was built attached and connected at a centerline parallel to the longer centerline of the existing building” “The ruins of this building are the remnants of the main brick antechamber (iwan), with its tunnel vaults. In the northwest corner of the antechamber, there is a rectangular, covered area with tunnel vaults. A window aperture and immediately next to it the ruins of a chimney in an oven niche have been found in the wall separating this space and the main antechamber. Furthermore, there is an original 1.20x1.00 m ventilation aperture on the vault covering; a rectangular window on the west wall almost at vault level; and loopholes in the narrow wall.” city center 29 Next to the Gök Madrasah, Ruins of Madrasah 30 The authentic entrance of this place was revealed more with the excavation started at the end of 1980. The northwest wall of the corner place extends to north. The shared wall of the main iwan and Gök Madrasah makes its way down around a corner chamfer. We can say that the wall close to the antechamber is the remnant of a gangway. According to the unpublished opinions of Ekrem Anafl, an art history expert who served long years in Tokat Museum, this building discovered by an excavation next to Gök Madrasah at north and which is quite ruined can be the Danishmend Madrasah. The three northwest rooms of Gök Madrasah are not symmetrical and only the part, where these three rooms are, is left as one floor while the Madrasah was planned as two floors. When evaluated it is seen that these two rooms rather belong to the ruins next door than Gök Madrasah. The city level kept rising due to the floods and this elevation helps us with dates. The levels of the ruins and Gök Madrasah are different. Therefore it is thought that it belongs to an earlier ticity center me and its layout seems to be similar to Danishmend Madrasah. Briefly it is thought that the north part of Gök Madrasah sits on the south part of Danishmend Madrasah. The structural characteristic of Gök Madrasah Before passing by the Roman range stone (equivalent of traffic signs on the main roads in our day) and entering Gök Medrese, you have to stop at the Portal, which is made of bicoloured cut stone. The muqarnas above the Portal, i.e. the ornamentation made by aligning prismatic elements one above the other in a certain geometrical order in such a way that each row projects from the row immediately below it, is one of the symbols of Islamic architecture. There are two small vaulted windows on the Portal where local red stone is used, but the rosettes complementing these windows are broken. Pervane Darüflflifas› has been planned as a two-storey building with porticos and a courtyard in the middle. The façade is latticed with stone. The courtyard, surrounded by two floors with porticos, has one Traditional Tiles from Gök Madrasah Graves, Tokat Museum 32 antechamber. Most of the portico pillars and capitals are survivals from the Roman and Byzantine Era. There are 17 rooms on the first floor, and 15 rooms on the second floor. The pool in the coourtyard today is not original. The inner walls of the main antechamber in the west and the porches surrounding the courtyard were covered with turquoise and purple tiles. It would be reasonable to assume that the name “Gök Medrese” (‘gök’ in Turkish meaning ‘sky’) originates from the azure tiles. The arc and Bust, Roman Period city center corners of the main antechamber are covered with botanical and geometric compositions and writings made in faience mosaic technique. This way, we made it to Gazi Osman Pafla Bulvar› which splits the center of Tokat into half on east and west. Osman Pafla the hero of Plevne War who was entitled “Gazi (Veteran)” by Abdülhamid II for the great resilience and courage he showed as a commander, was from here. The boulevard is the main road, which connects the past, today, and the future of the city, and as the locals Medal, Early Bronze Age says its töreyen (diverse, rising, increasing) culture. Before going to the historical center of the city we will walk about fifty meters back towards where the bus terminal is and we will see Sümbül Baba Convent which has some common elements with Gök Madrasah and a little further away Nureddin ‹bn Sentimur Tomb. 1982. Works found during the Maflat Mound excavations, and during the Hanözü sampling excavations; items from the Christian era; and ethnographic items are assembled Statuette / Gladiator, Roman Period TOKAT MUSEUM Tokat Museum was founded in 1926 by the gathering of the historical artifacts collected with the efforts of retired teacher Halis Cinlio¤lu in Gök Medrese, which is on Gazi Osman Pafla Bulvar› and was built by Muiniddin Süleyman Pervane in the third quarter of 13th century. The monumental building still accommodating the museum was planned as a two -storey building with porticos, two antechambers and a courtyard in the middle. The building was extended with the expropriation of the surrounding buildings in 1976 and reopened as a museum in city center 33 Statuette of Apollon, Roman Period Sümbül Baba Convent in the exhibition hall. Coins with great historical value and decorative artifacts are also among the precious pieces of the museum. In terms of variance and numbers Tokat Museum has a very rich coin collection. In the museum it is also possible to review artifacts of several Anatolian civilizations and the ones that were discovered in the Ulutepe excavations. A lot of stelae, tablets, grave stones from several Islamic periods and embossed stone artifacts are exhibited in the ruins next to Gök Madrasah, in the inner and outer gardens. rooms and a tomb. The most attention-grabbing element of the building is its portal that is made of white marble all over. There are two niches on either side of the arc shaped opening of the portal with nine layers of muqarnas semi-dome. Sümbül Baba Tomb SÜMBÜL BABA ZAV‹YE & TÜRBES‹ (CONVENT & TOMB) It is the most beautiful convent of the city that hosts an unseen number of hermitages from 13-15th centuries. It is understood from its epigraph that it was built by Hac› Abdullaho¤lu Sümbül in 1291-92. The building consists of a dome with an iwan opening to it, an entrance corridor and side city center 35 36 Nureddin ‹bn Sentimur Tomb NUREDD‹N ‹BN SENT‹MUR TÜRBES‹ (TOMB) As per the epigraph on the window of the east front; it was built by Nureddin ‹bn Sentimur in 1314. The building whose layout is square and is made of ashlar stone, is covered by an octagon brick cone. The vaultes that form a passage to the dome can be seen from outside as well. The east front facing the street is embellished with palmet and rumi compositions. On the epitaph further below the eastern window, the following lines from the poem of Firdevsi, the great master of the Persian language, can be read; this could be translated city center as: “Let your mission be worship of God/Meditate so that you do not live in vain/Do not hurt anybody for fear of God/It is the straightforward course which you must take” The south front of the Tomb, where the entrance opening with the low arc is, is quite plain. On the epigraph on the pediment, there are words repeating religion’s history old preaching of the afterlife: “Every soul will experience death”. HIDIRLIK KÖPRÜSÜ (BRIDGE) 700 year old H›d›rl›k Bridge, which is an intersection connecting west roads from H›d›rl›k Bridge Amasya and Turhal to east and roads of Black Sea to Central Anatolia, has 5 arched openings. It is 151 m long and 7 m wide and is made of cut stone. Inscriptions on this Seljukian work throw light on an event in that era. On the epitaph, which previously had a marble sphere above it, the three sons of G›yaseddin Keyhüsrev II, i.e ‹zzeddin, Rukneddin and Alaeddin, who were engaged in conflict for three years, are mentioned together. Savants of those times aimed to settle the conflict among the three brothers with the help of a work of art; and they succeeded. The H›d›rl›k pasture near the bridge has been Tokat’s excursion spot for centuries. Evliya Çelebi who calls this place “Kümsük Sultan Tekkesi Mesiresi” continues: “All the people, together with their families and friends come and have a good time.” The tomb next to the bridge, which is in a dilapidated state due to lack of care and maintenance, is important in that it conjures up associations both with the past, and with the history of Anatolian sects with the sgraffito designs inside the building. fiEYH MEKNUN ZAV‹YE & TÜRBES‹ (CONVENT & TOMB) It is thought that the fieyh Meknun Tomb was built by Mesut bin Keykavus as a soup kitchen in the 13th century. Since it does not have an epigraph it is not known to whom it belongs to. The building consists of a dome room and an iwan and a tomb connected to them. The door of the rubble stone tomb is in the south direction. There are the room with the dome where the grave is and two cells. Part of the blue, eggplant purple and black tiles on the walls does not exist today. There are two embellishments made in engraving technique on the north wall of the dome room inside the building. One of the eyeful buildings of the historical center that we walked through baya¤tan (‘just now’ in Tokat dialect) is a caravansaray. city center 37 Tafl Han (Inn) TAfi HAN (INN) 38 Another name of Tafl Han which is at the corner of the street next to Gök Madrasah is Voyvoda Han. While it does not have an epigraph pointing out the construction date it is thought that it was built between the years of 1631-32. The building, one of the most important monumental buildings in the region of the Ottoman era, was highly damaged in the 1939 earthquake and was repaired. Lying north to south, the rectangular building is made of rubble stone and brick. On the lower level of the north side cut stone was used and on the top level an alternating technique of cut stone and brick was applied. There is a large courtyard at the center of the two storey inn and porches on the sides of both floors facing the courtyard. There are 37 shops inside and 25 shops outside the lower level of the inn which has a prayer room. No matter for what purpose these shops are used, with its arcs and stone structure it makes you feel that you are inside a historical building. And on the top level city center there are 46 rooms/ sections. It is the biggest city inn of 17th century among the likes. This dimension gives an idea of the volume of trade in the city. Financial difficulties encountered in the last years of the Ottoman Empire led to some projects “aimed at revenueproducing foundations”. From then onwards the caravansary has been used for different purposes. For a certain period of time it was rented out then was given back to the Administration of Foundations, and then to Ministry of Justice to be used as a prison, shortly after became a wholesale fruit/ vegetable market probably since it is in the center of the city and then a student dormitory. Tafl Han which was renovated in 2006-2007 is currently hosting the artists who perform traditional craftsmanship in Tokat. Without ‘çöçelenmek’ in the local dialect (without wasting time, loitering), you must walk towards the city square to get to know this city and its surroundings better. Where we are is the center of modern Tokat as well as the old city and at this Horozo¤lu Convent point, when we cross the road, we can see at once a few historical buildings close to each other. P‹R AHMET BEY TÜRBES‹ (TOMB) Although it is named after Pir Ahmed Bey, Ahmed Bey who rests in this tomb is not identified for sure. One view is “it belongs to Pir Ahmed the son of Ali Bey one of the governors of Ertena Khanate, and his family”. The cover and the walls of the building also known as Horozo¤lu Tomb are ruined. The tomb which opens out like an iwan has a closeto-square rectangle layout. ed room; both the eastern and western wings feature two rooms each, covered with a symmetrical dome. The building was decorated with plaster panels with plant and animal figures but these decorations were highly damaged over time and now can only slightly be seen on one wall of the room on the southeast side. MEYDAN CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) The original name is Hatuniye Mosque. The Mosque was built in 1485 in the name of Gülbahar Hatun, mother of BayeMeydan Mosque HOROZO⁄LU ZAV‹YES‹ (CONVENT) The building next to Pir Ahmed Bey (Horozo¤lu) Tomb was built in the first quarter of the 15th century and has the most advanced layout among the convents in Tokat. On the southern wing of the dome next to the entrance is a vaultcity center 39 40 Bey Street zid II. After damaged by earthquakes of 1931 and 1943, it was repaired with the help of the people and was opened for service again in 1953. The mosque is a part of the social complex that consists of a madrasah and an almshouse. The building is square planned and it consists of a hareem with a dome and guestrooms, which were separated from the hareem by their small entrances through the public area on the two sides of the hareem. The porch in the north of the building has five sections and is covered by a dome. The building with this form is one of the last examples of the plan type called “reversed T letter form” or “mosque with convent”. The gate should be exacity center mined before we enter because, as the people of Tokat say, “Ali Pafla’s building is the gate of Meydan Camii”. Next to the building there are the ruins of a building related to Gülbahar Hatun’s name. This could have been a madrasah or an alms house. Local sources say Hatuniye Madrasah was knocked down in 1930’s. Now we will cross the street again. This time we will try to understand some of the buildings that have given Tokat its historical identity and we will enter the quite old neighborhoods of the city. Kabe-i Mescit Mahallesi hosts both Tokat’s traditional architecture and new buildings. If we move on the side way without stepping on Sulusokak, we will reach Halit 41 Latifo¤lu Mansion Sokak (Street). The painting and renovation work done here in the recent years; may make us a little more relaxed about historical aesthetic or the anxiety of losing the traditional so rapidly. TRADITIONAL DOMICIL ARCHITECTURE Number of houses, in the 15–18th centuries was around 3300. In Tokat where there were 7500 houses as per the registry dated 1825, the traditional residences survived until today. According to Cuinet, who visited the city in 1881, “the number of houses is 6000”. Depending on the registers dated 1864 and 1881 and travelers’ notes, it is possible to say that there were 4000–6000 houses in the 19th century. Evliya Çelebi, records the following regarding Tokat houses: “In this old city there are thousands of old stone buildings worth watching. It looks like a small city but it has around eight rivers, hills, slopes and desserts, three or four storey palaces and other rich homes, windows facing east and north. The roofs are brick and in ruby color.” The travelers Tournefort, Pecocke, Cuinet and Bore who came to Tokat in the 18th and the 19th centuries share views in regards to Tokat’s resemblance with the big cities of Europe. Only the names of the palaces that excited Evliya Çelebi made it to today. And today’s structuring has almost erased the city center Traditional Domicil Architecture Door Knob white painted, red brick vineyard houses of the slopes rising towards north alongside Yeflil›rmak River. Tokat houses carry the characteristics of classical Turkish House in terms of architecture and construction. Due to the desire of constructing buildings that can fit in small areas, the layout plans vary and the buildings try to cross over into the street to have a larger panorama from the front side of the buildings. Sofas were given great importance, terraces in lower levels and sofas in the top are elements that increase the liveliness of the house. Tokat houses are generally two storeys. The ground floor is the service area and divided into parts like entrance yard and storage. There are small and large fire places, ovens and workshops. The top floor is used as living area. The part that opens to the street is actually this part. In most of the houses there is a mezzanine floor between the ground floor and the top floor. In Tokat this section is called “bölme” (separation). Mostly it is made for winter and therefore has a low ceiling for easy heating. The toilet is on the ground floor or in one corner of the mezzanine floor. Bathing is done in the small cabinets on the mezzanine floor or in the top floor rooms. While there is no significance in the mezzanine floor rooms, there is a master room in the top floor that is distinguished from others with the better workmanship and wider and brighter space. The rooms carry all characteristics of a Turkish Room. A shoe stand at the entrance, sofas, fire place, cabinet, closet, shop window and lamp stand are present in the rooms. The main construction material of Tokat houses is wood and adobe. Wooden pillars and beams are attached on a very low stone foundation, they are separated by thinner wood blocks with a technique called h›m›fl and then the spaces in between are filled with adobe and bricks. Ba¤dadi technique was rather used on the secondary walls and room extensions. The ceilings and floors are also wooden. The motifs on the painting and wood are rather taken from still life, sailing boats city center 43 44 Hand Painted Muslins and city view or mosques. This type of subjects can be interpreted as the influence of an ‹stanbul oriented movement to find its way to Anatolia in the 19th century. YAZMACILAR HAN (INN) AND HAND PAINTING ON MUSLIN The name of Gazio¤lu Inn that you will see going up Sulusokak has changed by the special production here. This building has been the muslin painters’ inn for almost fifty years. Forty years ago painting on muslin used to be performed in other inns, too. Tokat used city center to be really famous with this handicraft in those days. Besides the motifs of apple, grape and cherry that are the plant and fruit fertility symbols of the region, we can also see flower and plant motifs quite often. Patterns are carved on moulds made of lime wood and printed on fabric in natural dimensions. Thus, even though the muslin may be showing signs of wear, the colours never fade. There are two types of muslin printing: Black and coloured. But Gazio¤lu Han which which has been identified with muslin handprinting in recent years is now Hand Painted Muslins closed down. The craftsmen moved to an inn in the new industrial zone outside the city. But, the number of craftsmen that would continue the traditional handicraft has reduced to almost none. Yurdanur and Birdane sisters who are working at Tokat Prison workshop and Tafl Han are trying to keep this handicraft, which has 600 years of history with the mould engraving and printing, alive and carry it to the future with their personal efforts by giving courses to young people. The building right across from Gazio¤lu Inn is Kâbe-i Mescit Mosque. The repairs caused the building lose its authenticity. Now, starting with Ali Pafla Mosque building complex we can cross over to the buildings MOULD ENGRAVING The Tokat region was the main centre for the craft of muslin hand-printing in Anatolia in the 15th and 16th centuries. The designs were initially made by using wood on which designs were chiselled. With the development of printing techniques, “Mould-Chisel Printed Muslin” making was initiated, a practice in which mould and chisel were used simultaneously. Later on, “Mould Printing” was used extensively. Mould engraving, which was initiated in the Tokat Region in the 1300s, is seen in the mould patterns of today. These can be listed as Tokat cinquefoil, Dramal›, Tokat grapes, Carnation, Apple, Spoon handle, Çengelköy, Paisley, Deer, Ottoman monogram, and Nine Branches. Printing moulds are made from the wood of lime trees grown in places with abundant water. The wood is soft and can therefore be carved easily. Some of these are chiselled and some are stuffed patterns and coloured moulds. New mould formats are used for hand-printed muslin intended for purposes other than making kerchiefs. Muslin hand-printing is thought to have originated in the Hittite civilization. As a tribute to this assumption and the presence of remains of Hittite civilization in this region, Hittite symbols are among the patterns frequently seen in Tokat hand-printed muslins. city center 45 Ali Pafla Mosque 46 on Sulusokak. Since the building does not have an epigraph the identity of Ali Pafla is not known for sure. The lack of an epigraph was so considered that in the Ottoman period, the people that were sent to exile or were forced to live where they are did not have an epigraph made for their buildings. What was written about Ali Pafla can be summarized as: “The writing ‘Nesli Sultan Bayezid’ that was found here on the grave stone of Ali Pafla’s son Mustafa who died in 1564, suggest that Ali Pafla is the son in law of Prince Bayezid, the son of Sülyman I (Süleyman the Magnificent). When defeated after starting an insurgency, Prince Bayezid fled to Iran and was killed there. And Ali Pafla was forced to live in Tokat. Selim II, had Ali Pafla, whom he considered as close to the insurgent Prince Bayezid, executed in Söngüt Meadow of Kazova in 1572.” Erhan Afyoncu, detected that part of this information is not correct: “Mustafa Bey who was the Revenue Officer of Sicity center vas, died before Temerrüd (obstinate) Ali Pafla who served as governor in centers like Sivas, Ba¤dat, Erzurum (1565/ 66). Ali Pafla ordered the construction of this mosque next to the tomb that he had built for his son but died in 1572 before it was completed. The mosque was completed by the order of the palace with the resources Ali Pafla spared.” Until today there was no clear information about Ali Pafla’s wife and Mustafa Bey’s mother. Afyoncu, based on Ali Pafla’s identity detected that this woman was Fatma Sultan, Bayezid II’s grand-daughter from his daughter. AL‹ PAfiA CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) Ali Pafla Mosque is one of Tokat’s important Ottoman buildings. It is assumed that it’s been built with the orders of Kemer Ali Pafla the son in law of prince Bayezid in 1752. The building that was damaged during 1939 and 1943 earthquakes was repaired in 1947. It carries the characteristics of the 16th century Ottoman arc- Ali Pafla Hammam hitecture. The main room of the cut stone building with the square layout, its single dome and single minaret are considered to be the indication of the simplicity of the building. There is a public room with seven domes on eight pillars. The main room is surrounded by women’s rooms on three sides other than the altar. The crown door carefully made of marble is the distinct side of the architectural decoration on the mosque. The minaret seen from the south of the mosque as a lean block is made of ashlar stone. The building with a three dome roof that you see when you look towards the square from Ali Pafla Mosque is a prayer room that was discovered when the municipality started building an underground mall here. VEZ‹R AHMET PAfiA MESC‹T & TÜRBES‹ (MESJID & TOMB) The original name of the building is Ebu fiems Hangâh›. From the epigraph over the entrance, it is understood that it was built in 1288 as a Hangâh by the orders of Ebu’l Hasan bin efl-fiems during the period of Sultan Mesud the son of ‹zzeddin Keykavus II. The building is also known as Vezir Ahmet Pafla Mescit (small mosque). It is understood that the name was given since Vezir Ahmet had it repaired and put it under his name for some reason we do not know. The building consists of a vaulted room that opens out to the main room covered by a dome, a room and a tomb. As a common characteristic of this type of building the center of the dome is open. The iwan is generally used as a prayer room. The Turkish bath just opposite the mosque appears to complement this section of the town. AL‹ PAfiA HAMAMI (HAMMAM) It is considered that the building which is a unit of Ali Pafla Building Complex was built in 1572 the same date as Ali Pafla Mosque. Ali Pafla Hamam› city center 47 Ali Pafla Hammam Entrance 48 which is clearly a classical Ottoman structure from outside is one of the important structures of the Ottoman Era. It is all built with cut stone in double bath plan. Its layout type is with four vaulted rooms and one corner room. It has many characteristics that can be considered as “the firsts” for the 16th century Ottoman Turkish bath architecture, such as: the covering of the top brick cover in lead for insulation, designing of the dressing sections with mirror arcs, the hiding of the entrance of the women’s section with a room, the sectioning of the cold room and separating the toilet and shaving rooms, Ali Tusi Tomb installing lighting elements in the men’s section, providing of privacy within the dressing room in the women’s section and the iwan and the building of a faucet on one side of the Turkish bath. SULUSOKAK (STREET) 800 YEARS AT 800 STEPS The inns on this street were made in the Seljuk and Ottoman eras. However it is known that the inn tradition in the region dates back to earlier periods. Think of a street that is unique all over Anatolia and when walked on 800 steps, it is possible to go through the 800 years long adventure of the Turks in Anatolia. From Danishmend to the 20th century you can see the buildings of all eras only on Sulusokak, and only in 800 steps. Ali Tusi Tomb, Sulu Han, Bedesten are a few of these buildings. AL‹ TUS‹ TÜRBES‹ (TOMB) According to its epigraph Ali Tusi Tomb was made by the Seljuk statesman Ebul Kas›m bin Ali Tusi in 1233. The cover system of the square planned city center Sulu Han (Inn) and Bazaar building was a dome over an octagon drum in the inside and pyramid roof outside. When the pyramid roof went down the brick roof that stands today was built. On the front of the brick building there are two rectangular sharp edge windows that were built with ashlar brick technique and covered with faience mosaic decoration. On the top side of the window where purple, turquoise, navy color geometric embellishments can be seen, there are two verses written in Kufic with blue faience mosaic on yellow ground. After passing by Kat›rc›lar Han (Inn) which is closed and non-functional today and is right next to the tomb, we come in front of the building carrying the same name as the street. SULU HAN (INN) One of the buildings that stand in integrity on Sulusokak is Sulu Han. Since the inn has lost its authentic characteristics besides not having an epigraph it is not possible to determine the date it was built. The wood and stone building was built to accommoda- te the merchants who traded merchandise in the mall next door. The two storey building has a rectangular plan in the north-south direction and the outer walls are non-functional. The only significant element of the inn is its crown door that extends outside. The inn that was a prison till 1930 was repaired and turned into a dormitory in 1957. It was used as the soup kitchen of the municipality until recently (2005). ARASTALI BEDESTEN (BAZAAR) The bedesten next to the inn is a 15th century building. On the east and west of the nine dome bedesten, there are bazaars with 20 shops each. KAZANCILAR MESC‹D‹ (MESJID) It is understood from the anonymous epigraph over the door that Kazanc›lar Mescidi was built in 1518 in Yavuz Sultan Selim’s period. The square layout and single dome building is built in the alternating technique using rubble and brick. Damaged by an unknown reason the builcity center 49 Takyeciler Mosque 50 ding’s back side and the porch in its front were ruined. The shopkeepers settled around the mescit and when the municipality knocked down Ya¤c› Han next to it, it was completely revealed. TAKYEC‹LER CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) The construction date of Takyeciler Mosque is unknown. Its plan is exactly the same as Old Edirne Mosque except for the narthex. It is known that the mosque in Edirne was built by Çelebi Mehmet. Therefore it is assumed that this mosYa¤›basan Madrasah city center que was built in the first quarter of the 15th century. There are nine vaults above the square planned main space, which is built of rubble and cut stone. Before the repair the domes were covered with brick roofs. The pedestals are made of octagonal pieces of cut stone and the capitals are ornamented. It is understood from the remains that the Baroque embellishments that were made in 1871 restoration and could not make it to today be processed in blue tones. The fairly short minaret is of ashlar stone. 51 Develik Han (Inn) YA⁄IBASAN MEDRESES‹ (MADRASAH) Ya¤›basan Madrasah generally known as Çukur Madrasah was built by the orders of Nizameddin Ya¤›basan in 1247 written on its epigraph found in Tokat Museum. But since Nizameddin Ya¤›basan died in 1164, it is understood that the epigraph was wrong and it was built in 1151. It is a square planned building with a covered courtyard and three vaulted rooms. The entrance is from the door at north. The entrance is not on the same centerline as the center of the building; it was moved 1 m towards east. A diameter of around 10 m was left open in the dome which sits on a two layer vault of 14 m diameter. In the rubble stone building brick was only used on the vault arcs and around the eye of the dome. DEVEL‹K HAN / DEVEC‹LER HANI (INN) Develik Han in the south of Takyeciler Mosque does not have an epigraph but since its layout resembles that of Voyvoda Han and the 17th century Ottoman city inns, it can be considered that it was built in the 17th century. The building is in a quite run-down state today; except for the thick surrounding walls, all sections were city center Ulu Mosque 52 ruined. The two storeys, rectangular building with an open courtyard was built on the east- west centerline using cut stone and rubble stone. It was used as a workshop till 1960’s. At its east side, the high ceiling parallel spaces are camel booths. Among the must-see authentic pieces is the iron door at the monumental north entrance. The street curling from here to the castle takes us to the start of the streets where the traditional houses we just visited are. We will both observe the castle from a close point and will meet other cross sections of history. ULU CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) Ulu Camii is located in Sulusokak, Camii Kebir Mahallesi; this location is important in that it is the first Turkish settlement site in Tokat. The mosque was first built probably during Danishmend period in the 12th century. As understood from its epigraph over its west door, it was renovated in 1679 during Mehmed IV (Huncity center ter Mehmed) period. The building, whose west courtyard can be reached through the door with the flattened round vault made of red and white keyed stones, was built in the north-south direction in a rectangular plan. The narthex, alongside the east and west fronts, pep up this side of the building. The narthex on the western façade of the building was formed with five high vaults that have 4 pillars with collected pillar heads. And the narthex on the eastern façade was formed with four rows of vaults that were formed with five rows of crutches. Stone consoles and borders that surround four sides of the building at the cornice level form the top line of the west front. The top cover of Ulu Mosque, together with the narthexes is covered with a wooden roof with Marseille type bricks. Also, the bird house made of stone and that is placed close to the cornice is a nice attachment to the south side of the building. The single balcony minaret carrying Ulu Mosque the 17th century architectural characteristics is situated on the northwest corner of the building. The entrance to the minaret is through its base that is inside the porch on the west side. The entrance to hareem is through the two doors on the west and east sides. The door with the flattened arc on the west side has a stone frame; made of red- white keyed stones and is surrounded by three borders. The second entrance door on the east side has the same characteristics. The hareem of the mosque is divided into three naves with two rows of crutches connected with arcs vertical to the altar. The altar of the building on the south side of it is extended towards hareem. The altar crowned with a triangular pediment is surrounded by a border. The niche of the altar peped up by rosettes was formed with six rows of muqarnas semi-dome. The backboards of the minbar on the west of the altar are arranged with carving of keyed wood octagons. The harem of the mosque is formed by a plain wood ceiling. Square medallions made with fake kündekari technique and covered with gold leaves, were attached on the ceilings red and green dominant background and pencil-work plant figures were drawn between the bars. The gold leaf pendants on these medallions symbolize that God’s mercy is upon the prayers. ALACA MESCIT CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) The building is also known as Alaca Camii or Küçük Minareli Camii. There are 3 epigraphs, over the entrance door, on the minaret base there and on the fountain. On the epigraph on the fountain the name of K›l›çarslano¤lu Keyhüsrev and the date 1271 and on the epigraph over the entrance the name of Sultan Bayez›d bin Mehmed Han and the date 1505 is written. As understood from the epigraphs, the building was made in Seljuk era and since it was damaged, was rebuilt in 1505 by Abdülaziz bin city center 53 Pafla Hammam 54 ‹brahim in the name of Abdurrahman bin Ahi Eda. Abdurrahman Ahi is a townsman of Tokat, who was killed during the 1503-1507 events of fiah ‹smail. For this reason it has two epigraphs belonging both to the Seljuk and Ottoman eras. The small mosque consists of the prayer section with a dome and the entrance. Its minaret attached to the west side carries Seljuk characteristics. PAfiA HAMAMI (HAMMAM) A neighborhood hammam, Pafla Hamam›, is at the center of a historical commercial area among buildings like Deveci and Pafla Inns. The hammam built by Yörgüç Pafla in 1435 (hijri year 838) stands on north-south direction and is in a rectangular single Turkish bath layout. PAfiA HAN (INN) Pafla Han is at the end of Sulusokak. From its epigraph it is understood that it was built in 1752 during Sultan Mahmud I period by Zaral›zade Vezir Abaza Mehmet Pafla, who served as the governor of Trabzon and Sivas. Other than its main wall and most attention city center grabbing beautiful portal made of cut stone, it is ruined. The authentic door of the portal was removed. When compared with the photos from 1930’s, it is seen that the side where the portal is 1m below the ground. On this side, on two side of the arc of the entrance iwan, there are two animal engravings tied to a cypress tree and facing the arc. The one on the right resembles a lion while the one on the left looks more like a dog. It is hard to understand why these figures that look savage despite all the stillness were put here. The south iron door of the rubble stone inn is authentic. ERENLER TÜRBES‹ (TOMB) Now, we are in Erenler Mahallesi at the edge of Sulusokak. The ruined tomb does not have an epigraph. Based on its architectural characteristics it can be dated to late 13th century – early 14th century. Rubble stone was used as wall material and was covered with cut stone. The square plan space is covered with a brick dome. There are embellishments of embossed borders Behzat Mosque and half stars on cut stone arcs of the tomb which has wide spaces with sharp vaults on four sides. This way, Sulusokak comes to an end. By a walk of around 800m, we saw the buildings from the 12th to the 20th century all together. We can say that there is no other street in Turkey like this. Some of the streets where the buildings that show Tokat city history are concentrated are down around Behzat Creek. The two buildings standing here side to side face us as visual symbols wherever Tokat’s name is pronounced. BEHZAT CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) The Mosque, at the Behzat Marketplace, is one of the most typical places in Tokat; situated next to the Behzat Creek, it was built by Hoca Behzat, son of Fakih, in the reign of Suleiman the Magnificent in 1535. A second dome was added to the small structure laid out on a square plane, in the reign of Abdülhamid 2 (1891-1892) with the support of the public. A restoration has been made by Tokatl› Ahmet Lütfi Pafla in 1908. The mosque consists of a square sanctorum and the final congregation place built in 1956. The mosque built with rubble stone and brick has a single galleried minaret on the southeast corner. Behzat-› Veli lies in the tomb next to the Mosque. 55 CLOCK TOWER The typical characteristic of the clock tower next to the mosque is that it was designed to be seen from almost every side of the old city. On the epigraph that was mostly erased, only the date of construction of the tower 1902 can be read. The 33m tower was built to celebrate the 25th Anniversary of Abdülhamid II’s reign. In 1917 the clock mechanism was westernized. The tower with a square base and octagon body was made of rubble and cut stone. The clock continues to remind the city of the time every half hour at two minute intervals. This sound used to be heard from every side of the old city. However, today, due to traffic and industrial voice pollution and high rise structuring, the city center Burgaç Hatun Tomb OTHER MOSQUES 56 In Tokat, there are many other mosques that went through several demolishes and renovations by Danishmend to Ottomans. Like all the buildings of the city mosques developed based on the climate and social conditions of the region. 39 of the 59 mosques currently open for prayer were built during the Ottoman Era. We can name some of these as: GAR‹PLER CAM‹‹ / YEfi‹L M‹NAREL‹ CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) The building in Pazarc›k Mahallesi, according to the 14th Anatolia register of charity foundations, was built by Danishmend Ahmed Gazi in 1074. Therefore it is considered to be the oldest mosque of Tokat and Anatolia. Although its rubble stone walls lost their characteristic traces that its minaret was embellished with colored city center tiles has made it to this day. GÜDÜK M‹NARE CAM‹‹/ RÜSTEM ÇELEB‹ CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) Güdük Minare Mosque is in Rüstem Çelebi Mahallesi. A. Gabriel dates the building without an epigraph to the 15th century based on its plan and embellishments on its west side. The inner space was covered with yellow and green paint in the 20th century. Plant motifs were engraved on pendants and on upper sections of baldachin vaults. The names of the four caliphs were written on the pendants. “Allah” is written on the vault gusset in the south. The pencil work on the altar niche belongs to the 20th century. Güdük Minare Mosque has the combined shape of Edirne Üç fierefeli and Manisa Hatuniye mosques. Takyeciler Mosque OTHER MOSQUES MAHMUT PAfiA (MOSQUE) CAM‹‹ geometric transitions on the Mahmut Pafla Mosque which is on the left side of Behzat Creek in Mahmut Pafla Mahallesi does not have an epigraph. But it is dated to the 17th century in respect to Mahmut Pafla killed in 1616 and Kemankefl Mahmut Pafla who died in 1681. The oldest of the graves in the graveyard is dated 1878. The square planned building with a hipped roof has a single minaret. The pencil work on it is rare among the Anatolian mosques. The public room with the slanted roof was added to the north of the building later on. The variances on the walls show that the mosques got renovated in different periods. The most important characteristic of the main room is the wooden ceiling work. The compositions formed by botanical and square medallion framed by double border are important. The minaret on the northwest has an octagon base, an octagon shoe and brick body. HORUÇ CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) Horuç Mosque is near Hoca Ahmet Mahallesi. It is covered with a dome on the inside and a pyramidal cone on the outside. Although the building shows characteristics of the 19th century the base and shoe of the minaret goes back to the 15th century. The public area on the north opens outside with five vaults carried on wooden supports. There is a small door on the west wall, high vertical windows on the east; the south side is non-functional. The rosette and bud designed pencil work form the plain embellishments of the mosque. city center 57 Latifo¤lu Mansion sound of the clock can only be heard from the places close to the tower. Here, one of the most beautiful buildings that we will see when we cross the street is a villa that shows the elite side of the city’s living culture. 58 LAT‹FO⁄LU KONA⁄I (MANSION) Latifo¤lu Mansion which is thought to be from the 19th century is a nice example of old Tokat houses. It is understood from the collected material that was used in the building of the house, that there was an older house from the 17th century in place of Latifo¤lu Mansion on Gazi Osman Pafla Street. It is a two storey building with an “L” layout Latifo¤lu Mansion, Ceiling, Wood Carving city center formed by the alignment of rooms around a hall open to the courtyard. There is a large pool in its stone floor courtyard. It is different from the standard plan types seen in Tokat houses. It was built to respond to the needs of a crowded family around Turkish Home’s main principles but with a more liberal plan. There is also a Turkish bath on the ground floor. The window system rather resembles the ones of 17th- 18th century mansions. The mansion was embellished with woodwork, pencil work and plaster material. Especially the main room shows the example of best wood workmanship of the region. There is a ceiling medallion on the area contoured by wooden borders square on the outside and circular on the inside. Made with slanted cutting technique and Europe influenced flower and leaf motifs are observed. The general style in decoration shows imperial characteristics. The second decoration technique in the building is the embellishment done by pencil work. In the shoe stand section of a room in the south edge of the top Mevlevihane (Lodge of Mevlevi Dervishes) floor, it was seen that a mosque, a sailboat and sea and a city landscape was painted. There are very beautiful plaster works in the top windows and fire place chimney hoods of the room in the south edge of the top floor and of the main room. The fire place in the isle at the south edge reflects the classical style with tulips and carnations made on painting on slightly embossed plaster. And the chimney hood of the fire place in the main room was embellished with plastic acanthus leaves in a liberal western style. And “Mühr-ü Süleyman” motif was worked on the top windows. ATATÜRK HOUSE AND ETNOGRAPHY MUSEUM It’s the house that Mustafa Kemal Atatürk stayed in Tokat during the War of Independence years. The building in Devegörmez Mahallesi was assigned to the Ministry of Culture and Tourism in 2001 and opened in the name of Atatürk House and Etnography Museum. MEVLEV‹HANE (LODGE OF MEVLEVI DERVISHES) As it is stated in Menak›b-ül OTHER MANSIONS Tokat is one of the rich cities of the region in terms of villa architecture. Until very recently most mansions like Ya¤c›o¤lu Mansion, Vak›f Mansion, Mad›maklar Mansion, Cevdet Erek Mansion, Fatma Ercan Mansion, Yo¤urtçuo¤ullar› Mansion, Maaz Gürkan Mansion used to live almost up to their actual functions. However, since the maintenance of these buildings are costly and on the other hand the new architecture is dominant, makes it imperative to use the word “abandoned” for many of these buildings. Arifin, the oldest written source of the Mawlawi sect, Mawlawi sect for the first time started to spread in Tokat from the convent that Pervane built in the 13th century when Mevlana sent his caliph named Fahreddini Iraki to Tokat with the request of Muineddin Süleyman Pervane. Probably this convent disappeared when Uzun Hasan burned Tokat in the city center 59 Door Knob 60 15th century and was rebuilt on the area at the entrance of Bey Street by Janissary Master Sülün Mustafa Pafla in 1638 during the period of Sultan Ahmed III. This building could not entirely carry its existence until today. The Mevlana Turkish bath next door, which is owned privately today, the stone gate at the entrance and the Turkish bath inside and the room next to it are from that period. Today with the recent restorations, it reflects the architectural characteristics of the 19th century Tokat architecture. The two storeyed building has a ground floor plan consisting of rooms around a “L” shaped corridor. Second floor was planned as a single large lounge. This section used as a Semahane (Whirling floor) is covered with a dome, and the center of the dome is embellished with plant motifs. The building was constructed in Ba¤dadi style using adobe filling in between the wood skeleton. BEY SOKA⁄I (STREET) Bey Street is one of the most beautiful streets of the city today with its old houses aligned on either side. Most of the city center houses are made in a fully attached form. Some detached houses here and there make us think about some sides of the traditional architecture of Tokat. Now many things that are not seen from outside, can be found as nice cross sections inside these houses. Consequently we can handle some points regarding embellishment and traditions by looking at these houses of the city. KNOCK KNOCK… GONG GONG… TICK TICK One of these sounds features the door-knockers of the houses. Even today, we see more than one door-knocker on some doors. Originally, there used to be three doorknockers. The door-knocker producing a ‘knock knock’ sound indicated an adult male visitor at the door. Upon hearing this sound, the females in the household used to change their clothes, veil themselves and get prepared. The ‘gong gong’ sound was the sign of a boy; and the ‘tick tick’ sound indicated a female visitor, whereupon the head of the family (father) had to make Yeflil›rmak himself tidy. Interior ornamentations are seen on doors, closets, cupboard doors made with the interlacing technique, on ceilings and walls. It is still possible to see fretwork ornamentations, and chisel work and plaster ornamentations on timber and stucco in some of the houses in the present day. In 17th century the city was defined as “peculiar to Valide sultans (mother of the sultan)”. This is an indicator that Tokat was enriched in copper craftsmanship, weaving and kerchief making in those years. Now these houses are the living side of the history of TOKAT WINES Numerous wines produced of forty four kinds of grapes that are of the biggest riches of Tokat land, are the most important compliments of meals and most authentic tastes of the region. Among these, authentic to the region and only produced here “Mahaleb Vermout” is the most known among the region’s wine types. Tokat’s landowners, wealthy and tradesmen. PROMENADES AND PLATEAUS If one is not dreaming then he is not considered to have visited a city. Now we will go up to summits where we can dream comfortably. Tokat’s people who drink tea and chit chat near H›d›rl›k Bridge most of the time go to G›jg›j Hill as a first choice when they need. This hill that has a little bosket means pine smelling coolness in summer days. When looked down from the hill, Tokat is “a dream in dreams, an imagination in imaginations”.The pla- AGRICULTURAL TOURISM Agricultural tourism with the name “TaTuTa” or “agricultural tourism in ecological farms, voluntary exchange of knowledge and experience” is a nature activity that finds life in 69 farms all over Turkey including Tokat. This activity joined by Küçük A¤a Farm in Tokat Niksar, provides the opportunity to learn the local cuisine and excursions for its guests. city center 61 Almus Dam Lake 62 teaus once used for animal breeding, became new leisure spots for the city people and travelers. One of these Topçam Plateau is 15km to city center and is at 1600m altitude. Here in the woods there is the possibility of knowing the traditional plateau hou- FISHING Gökçeyol pond in the central borough is suitable for fishing. CAMPING AND CARAVANNING G›j G›j Mountain in the central district of the province and Almus Bungalows have camping and caravanning areas. TREKKING AND CLIMBING Alan Plateau-Akda¤ Peak (1770 m) in the province of Tokat are advised for trekkers and climbers. city center ses. Batmantafl Plateau in the pinewood which provides accommodations besides daily visits is 28 km to the city center and is at 1850m altitude. While daily trips are possible you can also stay overnight by your own means. At Akbelen (Bizeri) Plateau which is 29km from Tokat and at 1740m altitude, you can enjoy the serenity of pine and beech trees, or goes grass skiing where you can find in a very limited number of places. D‹MES Dimes, the first fruit juice producer of Turkey, which has an important place in Tokat’s and Turkey’s economy, was founded in 1958. Production of fruit juices, milk and dairy products, marmalade and fruit processing continues in its facilities established in the city center over 33.500 square meters, with 16.000 square meter covered area. PAZAR Mahperi Hatun Caravansary 64 The town’s name known as Kazova, Ayna Pazar› changed to Pazar with the Republic. No comprehensive and systematic surface discovery is performed here archeologically. However, a cave close to town and which is getting deeper by time has won us a geographical monument. The cave at 1.085 m altitude gets its name from Ball›ca Village. The 8 km road reaching from Pazar to Ball›ca Cave was an important caravan road in Seljuk times. On the road there is Pazar Mahperi Hatun Caravansary pazar Bridge which is a Seljuk structure. The bridge connect Tokat-Turhal road to Pazar. This bridge similar to H›d›rl›k Bridge is made of ashlar stone as well. We will see the second important structure on the road, Mahperi Hatun Caravansary which is dated 1237. MAHPER‹ HATUN KERVANSARAYI (CARAVANSARY) The Inn constructed by Mahperi Hatun, wife of Alâeddin Keykubat, during Giyaseddin Keyhüsrev, the son of Mahperi Hatun, period is one of the best examples of Seljukian caravansaries. The diameter of the building that was made of cut stone was supported by 16 re-enforcement towers. It is attention-grabbing with its monumental door and embellishments. There is only one portal of the single nave covered space. The partly broken inscription on the main portal reads as follows: “Mahperi Hatun, sovereign of the wives to kings, commissioned the construction of this inn in Ball›ca Cave 1238-1239 with the undertaking of Keyhüsrev Bin-i Keykubat Mükerrem, the Great Sultan, the Eminent Sovereign, the shadow of religion and earth, and the Saviour of religion in this world.” BALLICA MA⁄ARASI (CAVE) The 680 m long and 95 m high Ball›ca Cave, one of the biggest caverns in the world, has 8 halls open to visitors. The cave, thought to be 3,4 million years old, has the characteristics of all known cave formations; and is internationally renowned for its unique Bulb Stalactites. Ball›ca Cave is formed of crystallized limestone. The air of the cave, with its abundant oxygen, facilitates breathing. Inside the cave, average temperature is 18°C and relative humidity between 54% and 73%. High temperature and low humidity in the Pool Hall immediately behind the entrance has weakened the bond between the calcite crystals forming the dripstone stalactites, giving them a scaly appearance. This hall al- so accommodates a rectangular structure remaining from the distant past, and built with the use of mortar. Small ponds in the Great Stalactites Hall, which is the most spacious site in the Cave, are covered with cave pearls. Relative humidity is high in this Hall, which contains 4 times more oxygen than the open air. The giant stalactites and stalagmites are magnificent. The walk from this splendid hall towards the north and northeast leads to the Mud Hall, consisting of blocks, stalactites, stalagmites and small ponds; to the Fossil Hall, one of the oldest halls, located in the far north of the Cave, and to the Bat Hall, which accommodates large numbers of tiny bats. From here, we pass to the Sunken Hall in the north-south direction, also known as the Magnificent Gallery. The Hall is named after the huge stone blocks on its floor. After the Sunken Hall and the Block Vault we come to the Columns Hall by walking over a bridge. This hall accommopazar 65 Ball›ca Cave 66 dates the biggest column of the cave, with a height of 18 m and a diameter of 8 m. The walkway forks, leads to the Mushroom Hall in the north, where the most beautiful voluminous bulb stalactites and dripstone stalactites are found; and to the New Hall, the youngest hall of the Cave, in the south. Besides the huge stalactites, stalagmites and Halil Bey Mosque ponds, there are also enchanting leaf, curtain and leek-shaped formations in the New Hall. HACI S‹NAN CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) Hac› Sinan Mosque was built in 1534 by Sinan bin ‹brahim during Kanuni Sultan Süleyman period. The square plan, single dome building was built with ashlar stone and brick cover on rubble stonework. HAL‹L BEY CAM‹‹ & HAMAMI (MOSQUE & HAMMAM) The building in the historical square in the town center, known as Halil Bey Mosque, was built by Hac› Mehmet bin Hüseyin in 1334-35 during ‹lhanl› dynast Ebu Said Bahad›r Han’s period. The building that was renovated in 1996 lost its original characteristics. The hammam that was built 50m below and known in the same name has architecture close to the Turkish bath architecture of seigniorial period and is dated first half of pazar Lake Kaz the 14th century. Pazar town shares Key-Biodiversity Areas (KBA) and outdoor excursion sites with its neighbours but these sites are named administratively after the Town. LAKE KAZ Lake Kaz west of Kazova is a significant nature spot. Some research show that a part of the lake has dried out in 10-12 years. One reason is to create land for the villagers and another was that new irrigation canals were added to the lake. You can see bird observers here very often since it is the layover spot for 108 bird kinds. Among these are: Magpie, Ruddy-goose, White Stork, Speckled Heron, White Wagtail, Grey Heron, Moorhen, Rail, Coot, Puffin, Pochard, Mallard, Blackbird, and Starling. Lake Kaz at 535m altitude continues to be the main nature spot around the area. It is a very special example of wetland ecosystems. As a component of Kelkit Valley, it is an important nesting place for many bird kinds, mainly Egyptians vultures (Neophron percnopterus). It is also an important place for amphibian and butterfly species. The vegetation of Lake Kaz The vegetation of Lake Kaz Lake Kaz pazar 67 Lake Kaz 68 Blackberry (Rubus), wild rose (Rosa), oxtail (Verbascum Thapsus), forelock (Achillea millefolium), donkey cucumber (Ecballium eleterium), teasel (Dipsacus), thistle (Circium), reed, straw and fesque grass. One of the thermal springs of Pazar that is believed to help cure some skin diseases is known as “Uyuz Suyu” (meaning Magne Water). The locals use this water that contains sulfur and is found in the region called Çardakl› 1 km west of Ball›ca Mahallesi to cure mange. Again in the same area another one of the two waters that help curing is Hera Water that runs in the upper part of the village mosque. Pazar who is economically dependent on rather farming and gardening has tomato paste and flour factories that process its agricultural products. WILD LIFE The Nature Association which has carried out some research on the Region and the bat type called “pygmy bats” by the people of Tokat, makes the following comments on this section of the region: “The Ball›ca Hills are extremely rich in mammal species. The globally threatened hammer-headed bat (Rhinolophus mehelyi) is a primary mammal species living in the region. Tourism activities at Ball›ca Cave should be organized in a way so as not to disturb the bats living in the cave; and visitors should show due consideration for this species.” pazar ARTOVA A view from Artova 70 “Proceeding north, we passed by the Çaml›bel Mountain, and flourishing and picturesque town-like villages with abundant crops in the lands of the Sivas Province; and we arrived at the small town of Ar›kova (Artova).” While Evliya Çelebi relates his journey to Artova in the above words, he also gives the name of the village as pronounced in that era. Researches show Artova sits on settlements from much older times. Historical settlements like Kayap›nar Mound, Kunduz Mound are important in respect to Artova’s relation to the Early Bronze Age. Kayap›nar Mound in Yenice village is a settlement that extends from Chalcolithic Age to Phrygians. Besides pottery, one of the seals found here, the one made of steatit (a kind of stone) is embellished with dots and lines and dates back to the first artova quarter of 2000 B.C. And there are single centered circles on the seal made of terra-cotta. This seal dates back to 1500 B.C. The Mound was rich in finding like bowls, weapons and pins. The red, brown and black lined ceramic pottery found in 1952 researches of Taci Temizer show that Boyunp›nar Village is an archeological site that belongs to Chalcolithic Age. And a three storey five rooms settlement carved in the rocks in the area Özündürük of the same village is an evidence of region’s rich past. Artova a settlement of Tokat during the Republic Era was made a borough in 1944. Artova is a place worth seeing for its nature rather than architecture. One of the significance of its nature is its integration to the series of valleys that Çekerek Creek, one of the strong arms of Yeflil›rmak ri- Artova ver, has formed. Çekerek, getting larger after combining with K›z›k, Dinar, Çal› creeks and Finize creek springing out of Kavak Hill, around Çaml›bel Town, forms magnificently deep valleys at the borders of Artova. It broadens and runs in Artova in south west direction. The 15.000 hectars Artova Plain was formed right here. In addition, ponds formed in places in Artova like Karacaören, Ekinli 1, Ekinli 2, Büget, Çelikli, Afla¤› Güçlü, Belekderesi, Ç›kr›k have turned the region into a water land. Coal beds that provide for the region and for mainly Tokat, are the main underground resources of the region. As we move towards southwest following the road to Yeflilyurt beauties of nature that may also be considered as layers of history and Artova’s components, meet us. The Station Building artova 71 Artova SULUSARAY A view from Sulusaray SEBASTOPOLIS 74 The meaning of Sebastopolis is “the big, lofty city”. “Heracleapolis” that is mentioned in the epigraph on the bridge over Çekerek Stream is also considered as the city’s name. In the 1880-1892 registries of studies, Cuinet V writes that Pontus King Mithridates VI Eupator has founded the city again as Nicopolis and Sebastopolis right after his defeat against Pompeius. It is said that the city was called Sulusaray (meaning water palace) because of the water that sprung out of the city ruins during Timur’s invasion of Anatolia. The historical city is on the same road as Maflat Mound, one of the important centers of Hittite Empire. This road following Akda¤madeni, Sulusaray, Maflat Mound, Zile, Amasya, Samsun route connects Cappadocia to the Black Sea. At the same time, Sebastopolis, together with Niksar (Neocaesarea) one of the important east cities of Rome and Gümenek (Comana Pontika) is the component of a second lisulusaray ne connecting Cappadocia to the Black Sea. In some sources it is recorded that it was founded in 1 B.C. During the period of Roman Emperor Trajan (98–117 A.D.) it was taken from Pontus Galatius and Pontus Polemoniacus provinces and included in Cappadocia. We learn this from the epigraph that was erected for Arrian, who was appointed as governor of the city. An evaluation of data obtained at the salvage and sampling excavations conducted by the Tokat Museum Administration in 1987, and of the architectural finds previously unearthed, leads us to think that the city was a major settlement site in the Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine eras. Research carried out in recent years has clarified that the region was inhabited in the Early Bronze Age around 3000 BC, in the Hittite era around 2000 BC, and in the Phyrigian era around 1000 BC. Part of the historical artifacts, discovered in 1987 excavations, is exhibited in Tokat Museum. Another Roman Bath part is in the Open Air Museum across from the old city hall, in the town center. THE CHURCH One of the important buildings of the historical city is the church. The building that was discovered in the excavations near the city walls at the skirts of the mound in the northeast is a typical early Byzantine church with its three naves, three abscissas, a naos (old temple), a bema (where ordinary people are not allowed) and a ‘synthronon’. The width of the tunnel in the lower part of the inner side is 1.5m. The walls were built in the hold-system which is rubble sandwiched between ashlar stone inner and outer shells. Use is made of rubble between the interior and exterior cut stones to hold the walls together. The stone used in the building was brought mainly from the rocky area between the nearby Alpudere and Ç›kr›k Villages, also used as a stone quarry in Antiquity. The calcareous cut stone and the conglomerate stone used particularly in its upper parts are from the Ebekayas› area of Elmal› Village. There is a piece of an octagonal pillar in grey marble with an inscription immediately next to the bottom line of cut stone and the bearing where Relief From Sebastopolis sulusaray 75 76 Column Heading the apse arch rises. Pieces which are still in their original places point to the fact that the floor was covered with dark-coloured marble. ROMAN BATH With the excavation of the historical building among the new houses to the east side, the section with a base and rubble walls that belonged to the bath was discovered. Traces of fire were discovered on the building. Carrier feet made of big block stones without mortar, cascading in threes towards the inner space and two broken pillar bases placed among these feet were found. One of the bases is still in place. The interval between the base and the foot form the door aperture. From here it is passed to the space with the sulusaray neat stone covered ground. The tailrace on the base running from north-south to westeast is important to understand the architectural elaboration of the time. The pillar on the east is in a quite sound state except for the upper side. The traces of sulfur on its walls, suggests that the thermal water 3km southwest of town was used or that the thermal spa water was coming out of here at the time. CITY WALLS The 17m high wall the remains of which were discovered during the excavations made in the east of the city was made of very big ashlar stones without using master. There are two quadrangle crutches that support the wall. 100m west of this wall, half disc shaped remains, Roman Bridge again built with big stones, probably bastions, were discovered. The wall and circular shaped bastion being in the same line suggests that these are the remains of a city wall. STRUCTURE WITH MOSAIC FLOORING This building, on which illegal excavations were performed, has a plan consisting of an axis and middle and side naves. Between the middle and side naves there is a 30cm level difference. Both bases are in mosaic flooring. Panel patterns of plant and geometric designs can be seen on the recognizable parts of the mosaics. Again human portraits on four corresponding panels draw attention. Three of the portraits were extremely destroyed. On the recognizable mosaic there is a human figure with a grass hook in hand. At shoulder-length of the figure words “summer season” in Greek are read. From this mosaic and the number of panels being four, it is concluded that the other three patterns are also related to seasons. After the mosaics were removed the building was covered to prevent damage. From the iron pin holes on the bone plates found in the building, it is thought that these are the decorative covering of an object. The table leg made of a “weird” lion figure, which is in Tokat Museum, now, was also discovered here. The other three legs of the table are not found yet. OPEN AIR MUSEUM Architectural pieces and the mosaics found at Sulusaray by the Tokat Museum Administration at the sampling and salvage excavations in 1987 are now exhibited in the garden of the building standing across the old municipality building. There are around 60 pieces here. The Table Leg with the Lion Figurine sulusaray 77 78 Sulusaray Thermal Spring SULUSARAY THERMAL SPRING The spring also known as “Çermikönü Thermal Spring” is the most important thermal spring of the region. The spring, coming out of the ground on the site of the historic Sebastopolis ruins, is located at an altitude of 750 m. Its water shown among the cold and warm salty water OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES You can fish for carp at the Dutluca Dam Lake. sulusaray sources contains sodium chloride, sulfate and bicarbonate. With average 32 – 44.3°C temperature, it springs out of a fault line. The thermal spring was active during Seljuk and Ottoman times as well as Roman and Byzantine eras. The modern facilities established in 1962, are developed and renovated based as needed. The center serves yearlong with 2 hotels, private baths, pools, restaurants and music hall. The road from Sulusaray to Yeflilyurt is also the road to exceptional forests. YEfi‹LYURT A view from Yeflilyurt 80 The town was established by the expansion of Musaköy by immigration and changing its name. The town getting the name Yeflilyurt in 1982 became a town in 1987. The mausoleum 2 km out of Boztepe dating back to Hellenistic Age and ruined by illegal excavations is the only finding in regards to town’s relation with ancient times. The town is loved both by the public and tourists mainly because of the possibilities it affords for trekking and recreation in the woods. In addition to Yeflilyurt Train Station yeflilyurt this the source of income for the region is agriculture and animal breeding. Beekeeping that was widely done in the past is still being carried out by a very few families today. This way we covered one end of the arc that draws Tokat’s border with Sivas. Now we will go west to the most comprehensive historical texture that shows Tokat with almost all of its ties with history. Zile is full of mounds that shed light to not only the city’s but to Anatolia’s history as well. Z‹LE Zile Castle THE PREHISTORIC AGE AND Z‹LE 82 The oldest settlements in Tokat date back to Chalcolithic Age. Taking its name by the use of copper as well as stone, Chalcolithic Age, is known as the systematic pre-advancement of city culture. The advanced agriculture and animal breeding in Chalcolithic Age mentioned to be around 5400–3300/3000 B.C., accelerating speeded up the social changes in human life. Besides social groups like administrators, religious clergy, various craftsmen, also monu- SOME CHALCOLITHIC AGE SETTLEMENTS Emirdolu Yüzellik Hill, Kozdere Karga Hill, Karayün Mound, Yeflilce Köyü Okçutepe, Üçköy Viran Mosque Mound, Akdo¤an Village Kale Hill, Üçköy Dökmetepe Settlement, Savc› Village Gâvur Castle. zile mental architecture, defense and irrigation systems, and with long distance trade, the trading of “respectful” matters for the elite has developed. Within Tokat city boarders 9 of the 11 Chalcolithic Age mounds is in Zile. Besides, 37 of the centers that belong to Early Bronze Age which is represented by over 1000 settlements in Anatolia and Thrace are also in Zile and surroundings. The most important Early Bronze Age center known is Maflat Mound 20 km southeast of Zile. The mound is dated to Early Bronze Age with its general characteristics. The region staged many settlements together with Early Bronze Age. WRITTEN HISTORY Historical ages in Tokat begin with the Hittites. Hattusa (Bo¤azköy), the capitol of the Hittite state founded by Labarna, is very close to Tokat. Consequently, the cultural texture of these periods extended over the lands of the province. Af- The Door of a Traditional Tokat House ter the Calcolithic Age and Early Bronze Age, settlement areas of the early Hittite Kingdom founded around 1650 BC in the Middle Bronze Age, and later, of the Great Hittite Kingdom (1550-1190 BC) were scattered in the water-abundant valleys of Tokat, and in the fertile plains of the Province. Maflat Mound, ‘Tapigga’ in Hittite language, that was discovered near Yal›nyaz› village of Zile is one of the best preserved settlements that reflect the culture of the period. As we understand from the findings; in Tapigga there was an administrator that reported to the king in the capital Hattusa. Therefore we can say that Tapigga was an important center among the federations that were connected to Hittite Empire. In Maflat Mound, in the palace whose builder and purpose of building is unknown today but that is thought to have belonged to a bey (a lord), tablets with cuneiform scripts and around this palace ceramic effects of Bronze Age and Iron Age were found. More than 40 rooms of the palace in Maflat Mound were discovered by excavations. Many tablets and clay objects with seal prints were discovered in the rooms facing east. The rooms where the SOME EARLY BRONZE AGE SETTLEMENTS Ac›p›nar, Alime Hill, Hamam Hill Hamzan›n Çal, Karga Hill Hillside Settlement, Kaz›kl› Mound, Merdivenli Düz Settlement, Güm Güm Hill, Mal Hill, Maflat Mound, Medrese Hill, Ö¤lenlik Hill Settlement, Toptepe Mound, Üyük Mound, Karayün Mound, Kayadibi Hillside Settlement, Kayaönü 1 Mound, Kayap›nar Hill Hillside Settlement, Kösele Hill Mound, Küçüközlü Mound, Recep Day› Hill Mound, Sinelik Mound, Somun Dede Mound, Tafll›ca Mound, Ya¤l›p›nar Hillside Settlement, Y›lanl›kaya Hill Settlement, Yüzellik Hill. zile 83 Idol, Early Bronze Age 84 tablets were discovered point out to a large Hittite archive. Among the cuneiform script tablets, there are various lists and important letters that the Great King in Hattusa sent to important persons, statesmen and lords. Or for example there were the quantities of copper, silver and wheat in the storage and texts about fortune and prophecies. From the letters that came from Hattusa, we understand that there was an important communication network between the two centers. Evaluations about danger of enemy, demand for help, agricultural information exchange about sowing crops, harvesting, grape harvesting or about Kaflkal›lar’s attack of Seieve, Maflat Mound, Phrygian Period zile the Hittite crops after theirs were invaded by grasshoppers. The correspondence about laws and tax liabilities are also important evidence regarding the scope of the relationship. One great gain is that the names of surrounding settlements were used in these correspondences. The findings in the last layer of Hittite structure are represented by a home with four adjacent quadrangle rooms, pottery and clay objects with hieroglyphics. The findings that belong to several civilizations of the time, mainly Mycenaean, are important as regards to the relationship network of Maflat Mound at the time. In Central Anatolia 2 groups are observed in pottery of 1000s B.C. regarding the Mother Goddess Cult. First one is dated late Iron Age and women figures on it are associated with the Mother Goddess. The second is an embossed one reflecting a woman’s chest with a couple of breast ornaments, most probably symbolizing Mother Goddess Rython, Maflat Mound, Hittite Period and is dated to the Hellenistic Era. In the first group there are 3 samples one from Bo¤azköy and two from Maflat Mound. Other important centers where high level Hittite culture and art was experienced are; Horoztepe in Erbaa, Aktepe (Bolus) Mound of the sacred Hittite city which J.G.C Anderson called “Verisa” and J. Garstang called “Z›ppalanga” and Anzilia Mound where Zile Castle is. We can take the history conversation that we started across this mound to a new dimension in Zile. The name of the toen we just entered has gone through many changes over different periods; Zela, Anzilia, Anziliya, Zelitid, Zelitis Silas (adapted from Sulla that meant honorable in the Amanos temple here and then S›lla, which became the name of a Roman commander), S›lay, Sileh, Zeleh, Zelos, Zilch, Zilon and G›rg›riye Zeyli. The first written name of Zile was Anziliya a Hittite town. In many sources this place is mentioned as one of the most important centers of Anaitis Temple. Prof. Sedat Alp who evaluated the cuneiform scripted tablets found in Maflat Mound 29 km southeast of Zile, Prof. Ekrem Akurgal who made excavations in Maflat Mound, and Prof. Tahsin Özgüç think that Zile Castle settlement, together with Maflat Mound, were main centers of Ancient Anatolian civilization. However, its history is older than Tokat and it is more famous than Tokat. Hirtius, who made mention of Zéla before Strabon, writes as follows: “'Zéla is renowned for the two wars where the Romans were first the vanquished and then the conqueror. Trefoil Jug, Maflat Mound, Iron Age Bulla, Maflat Mound, Hittite Period zile 85 Zile Castle 86 The first of these wars was fought between Mithridates and Triarius, the Commander to Lucullus; and the second between Gaius Julius Caesar and Pharnakes 2. Caesar, who defeated Pharnakes 2, sent a three word letter to the Roman Senate, reading ‘Veni – Vidi – Vici’ (I came, saw and conquered).” The clock tower at the entrance of Zile Castle was the guardian or observation tower of the time. Later it was called “Bell Tower” and Ziya Pafla changed it to a clock tower in 1875. The epigraph next to the Milestone, Roman Period zile short pillar that is thought to be dedicated to Caesar, are about several buildings and events of the Roman Era. The Roman Theater that was carved into the rocks is the only example in the region. However it was not well preserved and the pieces were carried to other buildings. For this reason the stage had disappeared. We know that Zile was taken over by Danishmend in 1076. It is an important center during Eretna and Kad› Burhaneddin seignior states. For a while ‹lhanl›lar ruled the town which was under Ottomans in 1392. It joined Ottoman Empire in 1413. According to the records of fiemseddin Sami, “Zile is a town under the administrative governance of the Tokat Subdivision of the Sivas Province. There are 13 townships and 500 villages.” We learn from Sami that “45 thousand people out of the population of 57 thousand 200 in that period are Moslems.” Following Ziya Pafla Street near the Castle, when we go onto Amasya Street after the crossing, it means that we reached Zile’s Theatre, Roman Period historical streets. We must talk about one more thing before we move onto Zile’s old texture. The fire bells that you will see in a very few other towns, carry no meaning, even for people of Zile today, other than as the embellishments of the past. These bells are actually not only simple embellishment objects. The history recorded two big fires here. One is the big fire that destroyed most of the town in the last quarter of 1800’s and the other is the fire that out broke during an insurgency in Independence War years (1922) and caused part of town to burn down. The old building texture that we will see on the back alleys of Amasya Street, especially in K›fll›k Mahallesi, has reached today in spite of and with the efforts after these fires. Although looking scattered at first sight, there are many back streets around K›fll›k district and neighborhoods that give passage to one another. We can count the following neighborhoods where the building architecture of Zile dating back to 17th and 19th centuries is concentrated: Alacamescid Balâ Mahallesi where we can see Alacamescid Mosque, Ali Kad› Mahallesi, Minare-i Sa¤›r, Yaz›c›, Hac› Mehmet, Çay, Sakiler and Minare-i Kebir districts. Zile Road to a Vineyard zile 87 88 Zile Ulu Mosque Z‹LE ULU CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) The epigraph on the north side of Zile Ulu Mosque shows that the first building was built by Mehmed Zalüli Bin Ebu Ali in 1267 during G›yaseddin Keyhüsrev III period. The mosque that went under renovation in 1591 was for a period of time known by the name Nasuh Pafla who had the renovation work done. When it was mainly damaged in 1904, was rebuilt in Neoclassic style in 1904-1909 by the efforts of Süleyman Necmi the governor of Zile at the time and local people. The main part of the cut stone building is quadrangle. The dome that is carried by an octagon drum that has sixteen windows is lead-covered. There is the public room with four marble pillars, three lead-covered zile domes at north of the building. The flattened vault of the door covered with a wood porch is made of keyed stone technique. There is a prayer epigraph on the quadrangle marble plate over the door vault. The door opening at west is the same as at east and has an epigraph with verses. Although there is a base like rim on the north edge of the west side the onion dome minaret is on the body wall. We can say that the crown door of the mosque is the most important of the monumental examples in Zile. BEYAZIT BESTAM‹ CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) There are two epigraphs dated 1206 and 1305 of Beyaz›t Bestami Mosque in Ali Kad› Mahallesi. The Mosque was built 89 Zile Ulu Mosque in the name the descendants of Beyaz›t Bestami. As a matter of fact, the grandchildren of Beyaz›t Bestami are buried in the tomb inside the Mosque. The Mosque has a rectangular plan. There is a high ceiling above the worship area. The minaret on a stone pedestal is single galleried, short and round. It has all the features of timber minarets built in the 19th century. HOCA ‹SHAK CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) Hoca ‹shak Mosque was built by Hac› Ali’s son Hac› ‹smail in Küçük Minare Mahallesi in 1475 during Fatih Sultan MehBeyaz›t Bestami Mosque zile 90 Elbaflo¤lu Mosque met period. The minaret of this small double vaulted mosque with roof tiles is made of brick. The mosque is also known as “Küçük Minare” (meaning small minaret) because the upper part of the gallery collapsed in the 1939 earthquake. ELBAfiO⁄LU CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) Elbaflo¤lu Mosque is near Çayp›nar› Creek at the east FISHING Fishing for carp is extensive in the Boztepe Dam Lake at Y›ld›ztepe. zile entrance of Zile. It was built by Elbaflo¤lu Seyit Ahmed of Zile elite, in 1801. The cut stone and rubble building has a square layout and tiled roof. To see the baroque style marble crown door of the building with ç›takari embellished ceiling, the later attached concrete section must be crossed. The entrance to the main room is through the round vault door in the north. The vault of the door that is supported by a base and thin headed-pillars on the sides is of red, grey and white keyed marble. With the old saying of Zile people, if we were to take a picture of this, Zile and every corner around it can teach one new thing. Vineyard RED GRAPES BLACK GRAPES In Tokat and many of its districts, grape is a product that has been grown with labor for centuries. The known history of conscious grapery goes back to the 15th century. The vine, molasses, vinegar made of especially central Tokat, Erbaa, Zile and Turhal grapes have become highly demanded. In Zile plain and the terraces nearby where wheat, barley, rye, oat, chickpea, lentil, sugar beet, sunflower, onion and vetch (vicia sativa) is grown, there is also grapery. Narince, a white grape with a thick peel is highly productive. It is used in production of fl›ra (unfermented grape juice), vine and molasses. Red vine is produced of black grapes and fenerit. Instead of these kinds that used to be popular now the Annot type (a type of grape) is being grown. Some information about Zile’s table grapes: Misket Çavuflu, Çavufl Üzümü, Boduro¤lu till December, Bekiro¤lu ve Kömüfl Cici¤i till March, fiamk›z›l› till April, and Hevenklik till May, can be kept in cellars. Molasses, dried sheets, vinegar and sausage are produced of white grapes named Alasüt, Tekçi¤it, and Ç›tl›k. It is impossible to belittle the part of the grape in the Zile “Deir” Festival coming from the time of Mother Goddess. Zile Molasses Z‹LE MOLASSES Zile molasses is of the type known in the region as “Çalma”. This type of molasses is produced from the “narince” grape species, which is the one most extensively used among the forty -four grape species grown in the region. zile 91 Zile Gödek Street TURHAL Kesikbafl Mosque and Tomb 94 Although it has its place in this geography where findings are rich, there is not much information about Turhal’s history. It is mentioned that two epigraphs written in the alphabet of Sumerians who lived in Mesopotamia in 3000’s B.C., were found in Turhal Castle. But this important event has not been proven yet. Although there are many myths about the name of Turhal we do not know the origin of the word. The town has been called Kuraflar, Kasiura, Gaygura, Turnalit, Taulara, and Gaziura in the past. In the period of Principalities, the town was Turhal Castle turhal administratively connected to the Eretna Principality. Turhal, conquered by the Ottomans in 1399, was administratively annexed to the Ottoman Empire in 1413 after a short invasion by Tamerlane. TURHAL KALES‹ (CASTLE) Turhal Castle and its surrounding is the historical center of the town. To get a birdseye view of this historical texture, one must go up to the Castle. Except for two bastion pieces dating to Roman times and the closed underground passages very few remained from the building. The building material was removed to Turhal Culture House be used in the city built on the skirts of the castle. We can talk about following buildings as architecture worth-seeing: Mehmed Dede Tomb of ‹lhanl›lar was built in 1312. The tomb that was built for Ahi Yusuf who is known as the leader of packsaddle artisans dates back to 1324. The Tekkeflin Hamam› (Hammam) that is right at the entrance of Çivril Village 7km from town gets its name from Tekkeflin Dervish Convent next to it. There is no information about the Islamic monastery that gave its name to the hammam. The single water piping system points out a characteristic of 14th century of Turkish baths. In the hammam that shifted from the original due to strange repairs and is ruined today, there are no embellishments except the slots on the vault. The town was set up in the Yeflil›rmak Basin in the central part of the Black Sea Region, at the intersection point of the roads connecting Central Anatolia to the Black Sea, and East Anatolia to the west. Founded at the entrance of deep valleys, the town is all plains as far as the eye can reach. It gets the water from Yeflil›rmak river. Turhal Plain which is among Turhal turhal 95 Turhal Koca Kavak 96 curves along Kazova and Yeflil›rmak is important for sugar beet production. These plains besides characteristic production like tobacco agriculture; have brought in to the town Turhal (Muammer Tuksavul) Sugar Factory that produces sugar, quality of which, is accepted all around the world. The onyx beds around Turhal with 10.004.000 m3 geological reserve are processed from time to time. Light green, white and yellowish onyx is obtained from these beds. These durable and easy to process marbles are mostly used in production of ornaments. High quality antimony is extracted in the borough where there is also a little Turhal Waterfall turhal manganese. We will first walk through wooded paths, then proceed to the northwest of the town by following the main road. We will see another plain here, the 6,500 hectare Erbaa Plain beginning in the Tepek›flla reach of the Kelkit Stream and continuing as far as Kale Gorge. PARAGLIDING fienyurt is the place for paragliding. National paragliding competitions are held in fienyurt TURHAL CUISINE The town possesses a rich and varied cuisine. Çökelekli (with skim-milk cheese), Keflkek (meat boiled with minced meat), Bakla dolmas› (stuffed broad-beans), M›s›r pastas› (corn pastry), Turhal çöre¤i, Pancar tatl›s› Velibah (Sweetmeat made from Beet) Yufkal› Pilav, and Pekmez Helvas› (Sweetmeat prepared from molasses) are some of the dishes characteristic of the town. ERBAA A view from Erbaa 98 Erbaa is among the towns in the city which have the most number of Early Bronze Age settlements. These mounds show that Erbaa was an important settlement even before written history. For example, the oldest mine processing workshop detected in Eski Gümüfllük of Kozlu township’s Ezeba¤› Village in 1977 dates back to the first half of 5000 B.C. The Early Bronze Age settlement near northwest side of Kelkit, east of Yeflil›rmak and 1 km to Kaleköy that is northwest of the borough was detected by K›l›ç Kökten. Kelkit River an arm of Yeflil›rmak runs very near to the Early Bronze Age settlement Kelkit Creek erbaa southwest of Kaleköy that is 1.5km north of K›z›lçubuk Village of Erbaa. Brook settlement and cemetery which is wrongly named as “Horoztepe” in some archeological texts, was used as a graveyard after the heavy earthquakes in Erbaa. Tahsin Özgüç considers Horoztepe Höyük near ‹nbat Creek in the south of the borough as “an important Hittite settlement”. The mother figurine breast feeding her child, now in Anatolian Civilizations Museum in Ankara and is identified with the mother goddess, is one of the best pieces that represent the Early Bronze Age. This silver and gold alloy little piece, is inte- Kevgir Castle resting both artistically and in the sense of material used. Acoording to Strabon, the oldest historical name of Erbaa is Fonorova as in Mithridates Kingdom period. Erbaa, which is the name of the town today, have appeared in the registries starting in the 18th century. Erek (Erbaa), Karayaka, Sonusa (Uluköy) and Taflabat (Taflova) towns that were between Niksar and Amasya in the Ottoman period, are called with their mutual name “Nevahi-i Erbaa” meaning “four towns”. With this general name, they are registered as Kaza-i Erbaa together with the districts. Erbaa captured by Danishmend, came under Ot- toman rule in 1413. Known as a little village in 1670’s, Erbaa, according to Ali Cevad, “is a town of 119 villages and a population of 27.000 and connected to Tokat shire of Sivas Province in 1890.” The town that was connected directly to Sivas in 1872 later became connected to Tokat in 1892. When the historical settlement was almost totally demolished in 1939, 1942 and 1943 earthquakes, the town was built in the place it is now in today’s architecture. For this reason there are no buildings with architectural properties. However, a building in Akça Village is worth seeing even today. Erbaa Cedar Forest erbaa 99 Silahtar Ömer Pafla Mosque S‹LAHTAR ÖMER PAfiA CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) 100 Silahtar Ömer Pafla Mosque in Akça Village with no epigraph is dated to the 17th century. It is known that Silahtar Ömer Pafla died before 1707. It is written on the two copper candle sticks that Ömer Pafla donated them to the mosque in 1688. In this case it can be considered that the mosque was built on or before this date. It carries value as a mostly wood mosque in Anatolia that preserved its authenticity. It is made of one row of cut stone and three rows of brickwork. The public area that was surrounded by wood pillars Interior of Silahtar Ömer Pafla Mosque erbaa and vault porches on three sides together with the front was kept large. The porches consist of wood sharp vaults that are carried by wood supports. With this section rose like a stage the building was given an authentic look. The inner faces of the side vaults and both inner and outer faces of the north vaults are embellished with blues. There are plant patterns on the gussets. The polygon bodied multi balcony minaret on the northwest corner, was damaged up to the shoe section after the earthquake and was repaired during the Republican period. The humble wooden mosques Hac› Ahmet Hammam of Anatolia are built as little examples of stonework mosques. For this reason wood painting in the buildings shapes as an emulation of the stonework. The entrance door of the mosque is a rich example of such woodwork. The surface of the door flaps, are divided into panels and spike nails are mounted on them. The door vault and its frame are painted so as to look like two colored keyed ashlar stone. Seljuk hexagons, eleven sided shapes intersecting at the center, pendants and embosses are seen on ç›takari and wood paint embellished tub ceiling. Flower and leaf motifs like in Seljuk tiles are used on the red, yellow, orange, green and white patterns. The villa ceiling of the minbar made in wood framework technique is eye catching with the stars in the center and pencil work embellishments on the arms. Mosque’s general embellishments continue also in the women’s section. It is possible to find both the Seljuk and 18th century Ottoman style on the wood ceiling, wooden supports, minbar and altar of the mosque where there are the most beautiful examples of Turkish embellishment art. 101 HACI AHMET HAMAMI (HAMMAM) It is said that Hac› Ahmet Hamam› in Erek Mahallesi was built by Hac› Mehmetzade Ahmet Efendi and his partner Durmuflzade Hüseyin Efendi. The construction of the hammam that was planned as a ECONOMY 25% of the city’s agricultural potential is in Erbaa. Walnut, hazelnut, melon, onion, strawberry, grain, legumes, sugar beet production and vegetable green housing are done. Industrialism in Erbaa is a fairly new activity. In the borough there are soil (brick, kiln), forest products (hardwood, lumber), and textile and lime industries. erbaa The Point Meeting of Kelkit and Yeflil›rmak River 102 twin hammam during the World War II and was not completed since. The building that is understood to have not worked at all is in a quite bad state today. Although a plan with four antechambers has been used in various places, the plan of the female section shows similarities to the Bath of Ulu Cami in Bursa. Erbaa is surrounded by forests and outdoor recreation areas. The Lebanese Cedar, grown in the Çatalan and Ak›nc›lar forest system, is an important local tree species. The most beautiful outdoor recreation area in this place however, is on the Bo¤al› Plateau at an altitude of 1900 m. People in the environs use the pastures on the Sakarat Mountain both for cattle breeding and agriculture. This plateau is also renowned for its medicinal plants. erbaa Wine and vinegar produced from grapes grown in the vineyards of Erbaa are among the most favoured products in the region and the following ballad has been composed about the famous Erbaa tobacco: “Is your tobacco mild Shall I roll up a cigarette The moon rose, the dawn broke Shall I still implore?” Passing by the skirts of the northern forests of Tokat, we will go down to the front of the mountains in the Kelkit Valley where the sun rises. The borough that will meet us was inside the borders of Kaberia city of Pontus which resisted against Roman invasion for a long time. History of Niksar is actually the history of all the turns in the region’s history, because Niksar was one of the important centers due to its strategic position. N‹KSAR A view from Niksar 104 After the collapse of Persian kingdom Kabeira becoming a settlement that was part of the kingdom that Mithridates I founded. When the kingdom was connected to Rome, the Roman commander Pompeius named the area Diospolis (City of Zeus) between 66-62 B.C. 100 years later the name of Kelkit Creek niksar the city was changed to Sebaste to honor Emperor Augustus. It started to be called Neocaesarea (New Emperor City) between the years 14-37 B.C., during the period of Roman Emperor Tiberius. During Byzantine era we come across Harsanusiya as the name of the city. In Danishmend name Harsanusiya and Niksar names were used together. Niksar, was taking under rule during the Anatolia expedition of Danishmend Ahmed Gazi. In 1077 it became the capital of Danishmend. The area which was damaged by a big flood in 1289 was connected to Eretna Principality during the period of Principalities. After the short time occupation of Timur, it joined Ottoman Empire in 1410. According to fiemseddin Sami’s records: “Niksar, attached to the Tokat subdivision of the Sivas Province, is a town with 9 townships and 80 villages with a population of 21.000 people.” We learn from the almanacs of the period that Niksar became an administrative district in 1840. Niksar Castle To go up to Niksar Castle does not mean to see the stone buildings from this period of time; it also means to rethink about the relationships chain and the geographic position of Niksar. N‹KSAR KALES‹ (CASTLE) The historical development of Niksar also goes for the castle. The first building of the castle dates back to Roman period. When it was built, three different lines like the walls defining the acropolis, and inner and outer walls like the typical Roman defense layout were formed. Significant part of the castle walls are within habitation area today. Only the part between Ulu Mosque and Melik Gazi are standing today. Most of the bastions that were ruined because of earthquakes, wars and lack of maintenance are in square layouts. The most known of these is “Kulakl›” as the people call it. Another characteristic of this bastion is that it is a collected sarcophagus lid from Byzantine era. There are churches, cisterns, storages and many spaces in the castle that was strengthened against the raNiksar Castle Vault Grave niksar 105 Ya¤›basan Madrasah 106 ids coming from south in the 7th and the 9th centuries. The Madrasah, mosque and Ya¤›basan Tomb that are ruined today were built by Nizamettin Ya¤›basan during Danishmend period. YA⁄IBASAN MEDRESES‹ (MADRASAH) Ya¤›basan Madrasah layout is almost the same as the same name building in center of Tokat: covered courtyard, two antechambers and the top of its vault dome is open. It was MAHALEB SEED (SEMEN PRUN‹ MAHALEB) The plant found in Niksar is the dried flowers of Prunus mahaleb (Mahaleb) seeds. Mahaleb is a 10m tree with white flowers. To extract mahaleb seeds the mature fruits are dried in the sun and the seeds are smashed to dust. Found in Kelkit Valley mahaleb is an important export product. niksar damaged in 1939 and 1942 earthquakes and its dome came down. There are two antechambers on the north and east of the quadrangle space and cell like rooms around it. Stones of the crown door and cover of the rubble stone Madrasah were removed. E. Yavi says “the buildings epigraph dated 1158 was found in Melik Gazi Tomb by ‹.H. Uzunçarfl›l›”. Although the name Ya¤›basan is mentioned in the epigraph the founders of the building are registered as Nizameddin Ya¤›basan and Ali A¤a in the 1897–1898 Education Almanac. The mention of the word Buk’a in the epigraph of Saltuklu make Erzurum Yakutiye Madrasah, suggests that the word “Buk’a” was used in place of Madrasah. As per registries there was a social complex in Niksar Castle consisting of a mosque, a hammam, a hospital, a madrasah and a tomb. The Ya¤›basan Madrasah is a part of this complex as well. As the first known madrasah in Anatolia, the building has gone under Kelkit Creek 107 new repair recently. A. Kuran, who points out that “the Ya¤›basan Madrasahs are the oldest seminaries established in Anatolia after the Battle of Malazgirt”, is of the opinion that “the single dome seminaries, hospitals, and convents in the Seljukian, ‹lhanl›, Principalities and Ottoman eras were inspired by this plan.” Functioning as a medicine school till late 19th and early 20th century, the building was visited by A. Gabriel in 1920–1921 and following notes were taken: The narrow cradle vault section in the south is the entrance. There are two antechambers opening to the courtyard in the north and east. There are two identical cells at the right and left of the north antechamber and next to these cells there are two rooms sticking out since they were placed inside the bastions.” The Great Seljukian and the Anatolian Seljukian seminaries were built as hospitals and medical schools. A professor was appointed for each course. One or two professors at the seminaries of the Daniflmend era taught religion, medicine, philosophy, astronomy, language, and mathematics. USEFUL PLANTS Walnut leaf (Folium Tuglandis), Rose hip (RosaCcanina), Pomegranate tree bark, Soy grass, Additionally, Cücek›z Mushroom, Kuzu Göbe¤i, Saçak Mushroom, Red mushroom are imported to several European countries. niksar Kelkit Creek YA⁄IBASAN TÜRBES‹ (TOMB) 108 Because of the 1939 earthquake only the base stones of the 12th century built Ya¤›basan Tomb of Ya¤›basan Madrasah remained. According to A. Gabriel, the octagon building is interlaced with face stone over rubble stone. Windows are with brick vaults. The remains that are a little further from the tomb, in the center of castle belong to the building THE LAND OF HEALING WATERS AYVAZ WATER It is said that Ayvaz water is good for gall bladder and kidney disorders and high blood pressure and intestinal diseases because of its low calcium rate. The 27°C water is exported to Europe, Middle East and Central Asian countries with the name “Health Water”. The water, believed to cure jaundice, is widely used by jaundice sufferers. VARTAN WATER Vartan water springs out from many points in Keten Creek area and Saray plain. The first to discover the water is a person named Vartan. It is used as a help in the treatment of diseases like syphilis and hepatitis. After 1970’s the GOITER WATER The goiter water in Çimenözü water was added to tab water. village is said to be helpful in There are three hot springs the treatment of the disease. around 250m from Sar›yaz› (Onan) village west side of SARILIK (JAUNDICE) HOT Kelkit River that is 16km from Niksar. They are known with SPRING Sar›l›k Hot Springs out of a the names Yel, Urfiye and creek near fieyhler Village. Uyuz. niksar Niksar Çamiçi Plateau called “Kale Camii”. However, there is no clear information regarding its date. There are two Turkish baths in the ‹çkale Mahallesi inside the castle. Kale Hamam› (Hammam) is dated to the 12th century. The other one is the Büyük Hamam also called “Kral K›z› Hamam›” and is dated to the 15th century and it is one of the best preserved buildings here. BÜYÜK HAMAM-KRAL KIZI HAMAMI (HAMMAM) Büyük Hamam in Fatih Sultan Mehmet Street was built in the 15th century. Except for the dressing room rest has reached today in its original state. The single Turkish bath has a three antechambers and a private room in the corner. On the walls and the floor of the building consisting of rooms lining from east to west as dressing room, hall, hot room, cold room, water tank and furnace, rubble stone and flat basalt stone were used respectively. The vaults of the doors between the rooms are round. The hall is kept quite charac- teristic and its layout is an octagon and has a dome with a light hole. The interfaces of the octagon were shaped to round niches and passage to dome was provided with vaults. The bath basins in the seclusion show another authenticity of the building. The basin in front of the north side is the most interesting one among these. There are figure embellishments on all three sides of this cubic form basin whose front sides are beveled. On the front there is a human figure with naked top and a loincloth wrapped bottom and crossed feet. The waist down was depicted from the profile and the body was depicted frontal. It looks like the human figures on Seljuk period tiles. Similar figures were used on other sides and there is also a composition of a partridge-like bird fighting two peacocks with tails touching the ground and a hawk-like bird. In the other basins with the same form there are no figure embellishments. On the east one of these the motifs of life tree and niksar 109 Leylekli Bridge 110 pomegranate tree are eye catching. Now we can go onto the other historical buildings of the town. We should walk around Arasta first. With the new buildings left and right signifies its value rather than depreciating it. The bridge right in the front of it is the best known among the area buildings. LEYLEKL‹ / YILANLI KÖPRÜ (BRIDGE) Almost all the bridges over Çanakç› Creek date back to Roman and Byzantine eras. Although the Leylekli Bridge does not have an epigraph either, it is understood that it was built in the Roman period and was repaired during the Seljukian period. It is the biggest and most famous of single-arched bridges made of cut stone with a semicircular arch. It gets its name from the figure made on the stone on the vault, of a stork that holds a snake in its mouth. The other two important bridges over the creek are named Seymenli and Çilhane. When we move toward Ünye Street from here, we see a very old building. niksar N‹KSAR ULU CAM‹‹ (MOSQUE) Niksar Ulu Mosque alongside a creek at the southeast skirts of Niksar Castle was built by Çenepnizade Hasan Bey. It is one of the oldest among Anatolian mosques and has survived intact to the present day. Evliya Çelebi refers to the building as Melik Gazi Mosque: “You go down five or six steps to reach the Mosque. This is an ancient mosque built according to a lengthwise plan, and it is named after the conqueror of the castle.” The remains known as Hac› Ç›kr›k Tomb and of which cellar remains only today, belongs to Çenepnizade Hasan Efendi who built Ulu Camii. Collected stones in big blocks are used on the corners of the rubble stone mosque and on the outer faces of the crutches surrounding the building. Windows, crutches, and vaults are also made of cut stone. The building that was split into seven naves and four rows of supports consisting of six square beam crutches placed vertical to the altar wall, does not have a courtyard. The square space is covered with a vault. Despite Ulu Mosque the layouts’ expansion towards the building depth and naves’ lying vertical to the altar walls are considered as characteristics, it is connected to the Byzantine churches in the region. The crown door at the north front is the most eye catching element of the building in terms of embellishment. Three borders embellished with motifs like six pointed star, arrow tip, four keys surround the crown door. The epigraph place is empty. Altar repeats the style of the crown door in terms of embellishment. Three borders surround the altar niche. The niche with three muqarnas on its semidome is limited with two pillars with borders. Seljuk star work and rosettes are also among the niche embellishments. The lantern in the altar front dome, the asymmetric placement of the crown door and the crooked northeast corner are the distinct characteristics of the building. The cover system of the mosque is flat roof besides the domes. There are four narrow windows on the main axis of the dome. It is understood that there was a gathering-place here with wooden separations or wooden mezzanine floor. The remains of wood frame points out that there was a mezzanine floor gathering-place here in 19th century. The Mosque is situated at the beginning of the ancient road leading to Erzincan, which was a capital in the ‹lhanl› period. ÇÖRE⁄‹ BÜYÜK CAM‹‹ / TEKKES‹ (MOSQUE / DERVISH LODGE) This is an ‹lhanl› monument built in the 14th century during Ebu Said Bahad›r Han’s period. The square planned building Ulu Mosque niksar 111 Çöre¤i Büyük Dervish Lodge 112 was planned as a dervish lodge and a convent but damaged by earthquakes only the portal wall of the building stands and the separated sections inside are ruined. There is an octagon fountain in the courtyard. The porticos are made of cut stone and other sections are made with rubble stone. The crown door is embellished with geometric, botanic motifs and a gazelle-like animal figure. It is thought that it got its name (Çörek= bun) from the two discs that look like buns on either side of the door. The fountain opposite the Mosque is made of Roman sarcophagus stones brought from the necropolis area on Harmanc›k Hill. The name “Lülecizade Brothers” refers to the signature on the large-text sülüs inscription. New buildings have almost completely surrounded one of the monumental buildings of Niksar. However, the building stands in this new texture as a symbol of historical aesthetic. niksar KIRK KIZLAR / KIRGIZLAR KÜMBETi (DOME) The tomb in K›rk K›zlar Mahallesi, differently from the others is a brickwork building of monumental value. The date it was made according to its epigraph that is missing today is 1220. A. Gabriel, recorded this tomb as “the work of architect Ahmed bin Ebubekir who built Sivas Keykavus I Hospital”. The octagon shaped pyramidal cone is ruined and only the fringes and brick dome remained. The area of the tomb where the sarcophaguses are placed is faced with cut stone. This part has a separate door and two small ventilation windows. The most important characteristic of the funeral section is the base in the middle of the lower floor. This base did not reach today. The main room is brickwork with large grout seams. Outer corners join on top of the building and provide a decorative effect. There are two windows in the middle of the nonfunction niches on two sides of K›rk K›zlar Dome the tomb. There are embellishments made of pentagon bricks on one of the window pediments and of Seljuk style brick and turquoise color tiles on the other. We can count some of the other buildings in Niksar worth seeing as: Cin Mosque located in the Tafl Mektep Mahallesi is believed to be built in 1160 during Danishmend principality era; Keflfi Mosque with the grave of Keflfi Osman Efendi of Celvetiye sect in its courtyard; Çavufl Hamam› located in the Taflra Mahallesi dated the 15th century; Hac› Ç›kr›k Tomb (also known as “Ç›kr›k Evliya” and “Keykubat Tomb”) in the Bengiler Mahallesi, on the epigraph of which writes “belongs to K›l›çarslan II’s commander Bedreddin fiahin fiah”. Gazi, the former of the Danishmendli State, has been built by the orders of his grandson, Nizamettin Ya¤›basan (1143 – 1164), in the mid 12th century. Later the tomb has been damaged and rebuilt during the Ottoman period in the mid 15th century and today what we observe is the architecture from that renovation. Nearly square but rectangle planned tomb has been renovated for several times till today. The tomb with the entrance on the northern façade has been built by clay tiles, rubble stone and cut stone. On east, west and south facades, girder with 3 lines of clay tiles are built between the rubble stones. The northern façade is covered with cut stone totally. MEL‹K GAZ‹ TÜRBES‹ (TOMB) HOUSES OF N‹KSAR The tomb belonging to Melik Daniflmend Gümüfltekin Ahmet In almost all Neighborhoods on the skirts of the castle, traces of Niksar’s traditional niksar 113 Softao¤lu Mansion 114 domicil architecture can be observed. There are mansions that reflect the past of the town on Fatih Sultan Street which the people call “Hükümet Yolu” (government road) since official buildings were gathered on it. Sofao¤lu Mansion that the municipality bought and converted to a hotel and Ömerzade House are on the top of the list of buildings to see. Wood is primary in Niksar’s houses. One reason is the large pine forests behind the town, and another is that it was affected by the wooden architecture of the nearby Black Sea Region. In Niksar houses a mixture of Black Sea and Central Anatolian domicil architecture is seen. These are generally two and three-storey houses. Since the majority of the houses are built in a terrace, bay windows are not frequently seen on the facades. As we walk towards the entrance of the town, we can continue to know Niksar in different dimensions with a building that served health in the past and now is resisting time in its own way. Here in the cemetery lying next to the traditional architecture of Niksar, monumental buildings of the past like Kulak Tomb/ Dome, Akyap› Dome, Do¤anflah Alp niksar Tomb can be seen. In a grave that we will see here laid minstrel poet Emrah of Erzurum who ties us to this land more deeply with his poems and songs. ÇAM‹Ç‹ PLATEAU While here, it is a must to go up to Çamiçi Plateau on the mountains of Niksar that extend to Black Sea. This plateau in the middle of pine forests with its accommodation facilities is raided by visitors in the recent years. Especially Çamiçi Plateau festivities increased the interest in the plateau. Service apartments and other accommodation facilities serve year round. AGRICULTURE TOURISM KÜÇÜK A⁄A FARM Davut Koçer and family host 8 people in their farm on the 5th, 6th, 7th, 9th, 10th months. In the farm, activities like wall nut harvesting, drying and peeling of wall nuts, care of fruit trees and animals are carried out. Organic agriculture is also done in the farm. The farm hosted many visitors from 12 different countries in 3 years. BAfiÇ‹FTL‹K A view from Baflçiftlik 116 Starting from Tokat center and going to the same direction again we drew almost an oval route. Baflçiftlik at this point of the route is a settlement that just got the ‘town’ status. Actually we can evaluate the progress of the town as the growth of an adventure started by a very few people on this land which inspires that borderless farms can be founded. Locals speak of the name of their town as “Baflçiftlik (meaning the main farm) name was converted from Beflçiftlik (five farms) formed by the combining of five farms here”On this very plain past, Plateau Baflçiftlik people are growing another historical product of Tokat: Rugs. You can see in almost all villages, homes and workshops here that rugs and kilim are woven. The economy of the town is 75% dependent on rugs; for example, in the villages 7000 m2 rugs are woven annually. Although hard to find you can come across almost all characteristics of Central Anatolian and historical Tokat weaves in some villages. In this weaves pure wool and natural dyes extracted from plants, rocks and roots are used. The Big Çal Hill west of Baflçiftlik, Çart›l, Sivrilce north of it and high hills on which there are Karaçam forests the south of it and the flat areas east of it are great for hiking especially in spring. PARAGLIDING Saman Mountain at 1800m in Baflçiftlik is the area that paragliding was first tried in 2003. baflçiftlik ALMUS Almus Dam Lake 118 The historical name of Almus town is Alumus in registeries. Ali Cevad registered it as “Almus-u Kebir town connected to the shire of Tokat” in the Ottoman period. Almus was ruled by the Seljuk State, the Eretna Khanate, and the Kad› Burhaneddin Khanate. The region conquered by the Ottomans in 1399 in the reign of Y›ld›r›m Bayezid was ruled by Timur for a short time in 1402, and again annexed to the Ottoman state in 1413. Almus, attached to Tokat central district in the early Republican era, became an administrative district in 1954. The town near Almus Dam Lake was relocated four times till today. The town that is established on one of the high points of Tozanl› Valley opening in the east-west direction has been on a passage that goes down both to Tozanl› Valley and Komana city. The first settlement is 3km south of today. If the area that the locals call Old Almus had not disappeared, we would have seen an architectural and almus historical texture that we see in many of Tokat’s towns. Because, on this area the traces that belong to very old buildings can still be seen today. Besides, the necropolis in the Çayönü Village, the mound and necropolis in Tarla area of Ar›su, the historical Islamic cemetery in Serince Village and the mound and necropolis in Maflatatepe across from Tufantepe are important in terms of archeological sites. We can say that the workshop dating in the village of Bak›ml›, dating from the Early Bronze Age, even though only limited surveys have been carried out, is sufficient to cause us to reflect on the historical process. Both because of the relocation of the town and because of the continuous damages and forests covering the mound made it hard to trace history. Part of Tufantepe, the second settlement area of Almus was under the dam water and the remaining part was afforested. Brick-dust foundations, a necropolis dating back to the Byzantine period and clay ob- Almus Dam Lake jects here and there can still be observed in this area. ALMUS DAM LAKE Important as a trout farm today Almus Dam Lake was made where Yeflil›rmak River makes an elbow and enters Omala Plain in the composite earth dam type. The dam is surrounded by forests. There are many bays in the coasts. The lake is also a suitable track for water sports. The tomb at Görümlü (Varz›l), which dates back to the 16th century and is believed to be that of Kul Himmed, a renowned minstrel poet who was the disciple of Pir Sultan Abdal, is a significant site at Almus in terms of faith tourism. Another centre on this faith tourism route is Hubyar Village. The village and convent at the skirts of the highest mountain of the region Tekeli/Dokuzlar Mountain (2640m) has an important place in the semah culture of the place and contributes to the folklore of the region by qualities like the preservation of the traditional attire. Now as we move further southeast, we will be at one of the border points of Tokat and Sivas. On the way there are again forests, valleys, riversides. Merkez Mosque almus 119 Dumanl› Plateau REfiAD‹YE A view from Refladiye 122 The historical name of Refladiye is Eskefser. It was changed to Refladiye in 1906 in dedication to Sultan Mehmed Reflat. The city came under Ottoman rule in 1461 in the reign of Fatih Sultan Mehmet. Refladiye, which was a settlement throughout the Ottoman era, was given the status of township in 1906. CASTLES Refladiye, located in the middle of the Kelkit Valley, which runs like a narrow corridor in an east-west direction, is situated in an area where, due to its strategic position, sentinel type castles were always concentrated. There are many station type castles on the Refladiye refladiye area between the Niksar Castle in the north and the Koyulhisar Castle in the east that almost disappeared. There are many findings in these castles belonging to Roman, Byzantine and Turkish eras. The castles are not only built to control the crossing routes but the area as well. These castles depending on the area are Tarfu, Güllü Köy, Feselek, Saraydüzü, Kalecik, Mengen, Kaledüzü, K›z›lcaviran, Tozanl› River and Turaç Village castles. None of them have survived to our day intact. Some are entirely ruined; very few have the basement remain. There is still no clear information about the site where Refladiye was first founded. Prof. Ata- Refladiye soy, who is a native of Refladiye, considers it to be Kaledüzü at the top of Ulu and Keçiköy. At the time Evliya Çelebi was taking notes on the region, Refladiye was the township of Eskefser attached to the Erzurum Province. Because of all this change there is not historical architecture in the region. Çarfl› Mosque on Hükümet Yolu is the only example in that sense. This is a small, square mosque. The jerkin head is covered with roof tiles. The final congregation area in the north was added later. There is a timber fountain in the west. Simple woodwork is only seen on the ceiling navel. Mihrab and gallery balustrades display delicate carvings. LAKE Z‹NAV Refladiye however, also means Lake Zinav to some extent. This is a freshwater lake at a distance of 3 km from the township of Yolüstü. The lake is fed by a brook which runs down from the mountains. The lake is 1,5 km2 in size. With an outlet discharging from the downstream side, the Lake joins the Kelkit Stream. There are no marshy areas around it. Its average depth varies between 10-15 m. The forest around the lake is under a preservation order. A café was built with ‹ller (Provinces) Bank funds. There are delicious carp and rudd in the lake. One of the major reasons why the people of the region are attracted to the lakeside is Refladiye Delice Valley refladiye 123 Lake Zinav 124 the magnificent view of sunsets. The Lake, which has been put under a preservation order by the Ministry of Forestry as a Natural Life Preservation Site accommodates many bird species and is a refuge for migratory birds. Lake Göllüköy is larger than Zinav. Fed by leaks from neighboring creeks and winter waters, the average depth of the lake is 7m. We will go up to a plateau from here where Refladiye accommodates visitors from outside. Selemen, Bozçal› and K›z›lcaören are the primary plaSelemen Plateau refladiye teaus of the borough for visiting and living. SELEMEN PLATEAU Selemen Plateau drawing the border of the area with city of Ordu is where Yavuz Sultan Selim stopped over with his army and did his Friday prayer in 1514 when he was on his Çald›ran Battle. There is another specialty of the plateau: money does not work here. On Selemen Plateau every Friday in spring months till the first drop of snow, a traditional plateau market is set. People Refladiye Thermal Spring from the cities of Tokat, Ordu, Samsun, Giresun, and Sivas provide their needs by the products that they bring. In this market the trade is done by exchange; this is important as to the cultural treasure of the region. One side of this mountain faces the valleys that give the town its characteristic. Refladiye is related to both Tozanl› and Kelkit Valleys. Tozanl› enters the town from north of Eyüp Village, Kelkit enters from nearby Umurca Village. Kelkit Valley is very bumpy. This valley separates the Canik Mountains and the second set of mountains that lie in the middle of the province. The valley that is narrow till Refladiye gets larger here and forms Refladiye plain covered with incredible mountains and forests. Although highly dependent on agriculture, animal breeding, poultry rising, beekeeping, fisheries continue in Refladiye’s economy. Rugs are also among the sources of living. Bentonite extracted in Refladiye is processed in Samafl Bentonite Factory. Lebanese Cedar that grows in the set of forests in Kale/Çatalan and Niksar-Ak›nc›lar is an important local tree kind. REfiAD‹YE THERMAL SPRINGS The springs that have the therapy properties are an important part of tourism in the town. Refladiye potable water analysis results given in the clinical report submitted by the Medical Ecology and Hydro-Climatology Research Centre at ‹stanbul University are as follows: “All types of rheumatism, orthopedic problems (bone fractures and dislocations), post-operational problems and gynaecological problems can be cured at the thermal springs, which have a hyper-thermal temperature of 48 degrees and a mineral content as high as 4 g/l.” The waters of the Refladiye thermal springs are between 40 - 49°C in temperature. The odourless and colourless water is slightly salty and sour. The water is said to heal rheumatism, various painful disturbances and dermatological diseases. refladiye 125 TRADITIONAL CULTURE Ceiling, Wood Carving HANDICRAFT Wood Carving In the center of Tokat, in its towns, villages you will see the doors, cabinets, banisters, altars, walls and ceilings; well those tell what is to be told. They tell you about the world of the masters that give color and sound, life and character to wood. What the pencil work, the cutter, the nail, the paint tells the people here and the visitors is actually little traces, signs and adventure of the world we want to live in. Every wood master puts himself into his work. But he does the work taking into consideration the social status, living style and dreams of the customer. The hand holding the tool is the accumulation of the civilizations, tribes that lived in Tokat. This is the essence of wood carving in Tokat. Jewellery Jewellery had an important place in Tokat which had a sig- nificant commercial art potential during Seljuk and Ottoman periods. Although very few artists remain today, “Tokat Bracelet” made by special experience and skill is still popular today. Saddlery (Leather accessories) Saddlery, one of our traditional crafts, is still a profession in Tokat despite all the pressure of time and technology. Saddlery was highly demanded in the past and therefore became an important craft. The saddlery products, mainly couplings are made by only a very few masters today but still pour out from Tokat to east and south east. Garden Lantern Manufacturing These garden lanterns, which are in different sizes and shapes, and produced by the only and probably the last master in the modest workshop in Taflhan, shed light to the space, that belongs to our past. traditional culture 129 Ceramic Production Ceramics-Pottery The ceramics production increasing due to the richness of raw material and suitable climate conditions of Tokat was used in surrounding buildings mainly in Sivas. Daily use items like jars, bowls, pitchers made of green, yellow or brown enameled thick red dough, quadrangle, hexagon bricks and old fashion kiln tiles are product types. Ceramics made in various sizes to contain food were the indispensables in the nomadic, plateau and settled life. Large size grain jars are important examples. These jars used to be made by mobile masters. Up until 1970 this craft was being carried out in four workshops, still lives in Emirseyit town today. done by hand drawing or by printing with wooden moulds on silk or cotton fabric using various dyes. The examples of this craft are mostly seen on head covers that women use. They are also used as table cloth or duvet cover. In Tokat all kinds of kerchiefs used in every region are printed. However, the most important characteristic of Tokat kerchiefs is the multicolored print. The colors and patterns are uniquely beautiful. There are two authentic Tokat patterns: Tokat ‹çi Dolusu, Tokat Elmal›s›. Grouter Kerchief Making – Hand Painting on Muslin It is a fabric decorating craft traditional culture 131 Traditional Crafts Copperworking Traditional Embroidery Art Copper is one of the most widely used mines in Anatolia. Copper is bought in sheets and cut, shaped by hitting by wooden bats or hammers. Nailing and scratching are the most common finishing processes. Tokat was an important copper processing center in the Ottoman Era. It took a big industrial state in second half of 17th century. In this period the copper extracted out of the mines in Ergani was processed in Tokat. Part of the pure copper obtained was sent to ‹stanbul by sea from Samsun after being carried to Samsun over Amasya. Part of it was left in Tokat to be used by craftsmen in copperware production. Today copper is used mostly in decorative items. In Tokat garments like salta, entari, peflli entari, üçetek, saya, önlük (apron), tuzluk, kuflak (thick belt), cepken, z›vga, aba, yelek, gazeki, gömlek (shirt), flalvar, ya¤l›k, yazma, çit, findi, fes (fez), burmal› fes, fermene, saçl›k, saç ba¤› (hair scarve), bel ba¤› (belt) used to be hand woven and dyed with root dyes. The motifs used to be taken from social life elements like daughter in law - mother in law relationship, love, happiness, old-age, widowhood, jealousy. The names of the embroidery motifs used on the garments are black embroidery, ram horn, eyelashes, moon, embroiled, apron, three rocks, sweet cakes, flamatl›, plain karayazma, Arapkir saya, wolf trace, blackbird, kilim, serpme, d›fl saya, karayazma, and aynal› önlük. traditional culture 133 THE TURKISH BOW AND ARROW IS WAKING UP FROM ITS CENTENNIAL SLEEP Dr. Y. Metin Aksoy, who is known by Tokat’s culture elite by his wood carving work, has allotted his atelier and spare time to revitalize the Turkish bow and arrow since 2005. The Turkish bow that entered in world literature as “Turkish Horn bow” is one of our forgotten values whose production has stopped at the beginning of the century and know-how has been forgotten. With the loss of function of ‹stanbul Okmeydan› at the beginning of the century, unfortunately the production of this weapon which played the main part in the states that Turks founded and the wars they won, stopped and since new masters were not trained the know-how of bow making took its place among our forgotten cultural values. Up until 2005 copies of Turkish bow was being made by a few of its fans. At this date, it became “an unstoppable passion”, as per his own expression, for Dr. Y. Metin Aksoy to again make these bows that he saw in ‹stanbul Military Museum. At the end of the process that started with the translation of Ottoman texts to contemporary Turkish and the reading of books in world literature that describe the Turkish bow, although not as strong and fast as the original ones, the first bows started to come out of the workshop. Dr. Y. Metin Aksoy explains that they were able to bring the basic principles of bow making to sunlight but that it may take a decade to discover all the secrets of the bows that used to throw arrows to 824 meters in history. TRADITIONAL ATTIRE Female Attire: ‹ç Saya - ‹ç Gömlek (inner shirt): Intimate wear made of white cotton fabric, V neck with edge trim, ankle length, slits on two sides, and sides embroidered to waist. Also used as a night gown. D›fl Saya - Üç Pefl (outer shirt): Worn over ‘inner saya’, V neck ‘d›fl saya’ is called ‘üç pefl’ (three pieces) since it has three skirts one in the front, two at the back made of velvet, etamine or thick woven fabric. It is longer than ‘iç saya’. The back, neck and across back are embroidered. It is made of kutnu (dense fabric weaved with cotton and silk) fabric. fialvar (baggy pants): The crotch of ‘flalvar’ (baggy trousers) made of kutnu fabric, white cloth and flannel is short. The ones made of white cloth are embroidered at a span at the ankle level. Ya¤l›k: It is made to cover the V neck opening of outer saya and is embellished with beads. Önlük-fial Öynük (shawl): It is a garment that is woven on looms in two pieces with woolen yarns, with the raw edges crocheted and is embellished with sequins and beads. Aynal› Çar›k (moccasins): A mirror is placed inside the front of the foot and secured with a button. A buckle is added and is embellished with colorful yarns. traditional culture 135 Necklace, Ottoman Period Fes –Semerli Fes/Parçal› Fes/Terek Al› (fez): It is made of felt. It is a head cover embellished with silver and gold coins at the front. Arkal›k: Yellow-red, whitered, yellow-white striped three or four panels are sewn together and the back is fringed at 40-50 cm. Beady waist band: Small colored beads are attached to the fringes of arkal›k and these fringes are attached to the kolan knitted of wool and this is wrapped around the waist. Saç Ba¤› (hair band): The hair is mostly braided. Blue beads are attached among the braided hair. Çit – Findi- Elmal›: Çit and findi, is a thin veil cover that is crocheted with sequins and is used over fez. Çorap (socks): Handmade socks are usually in red and are embroidered with yellow, white and blue. Male Attire: Terlik: Made of cotton cloth or white etamine by rushing the top and is embroidered with colored yarn and worn on the head. There is also the fez made of red felt and worn by wrapping a shawl around. ‹fllik: Shirt without a collar and is hand woven in looms with yellow, red and white yarns and is printed. Aba: A jacket with no shoulder seams, with long sleeves and side slits. And it is made of thick fabric woven in looms. Yelek (vest): Lined, button front, U neck garment. Cepken: Made of dark color velvet or broadcloth. Embellished at front or back. Z›z›ga: Pants woven in looms. Pocket opening and inside the leg opening is embroidered with cords. Kuflak: A garment wrapped around waist woven in a square shape and in red, green, yellow stripes. Money bag, watch chain and hankerchief are used as accessories. Yemeni- Çapula/Çar›k (footwear): Çar›k is made of buffalo or ox skin and added with strings or buckle. Also Yemeni with a thin sole is worn. Çapula is a short leg boot. traditional culture 137 TRADITIONAL FOLK DANCE Tokat is in the “Halay Region”. The dances are either separate as women and men or mixed and are accompanied by instruments like drum, zurna (kind of trumpet), ba¤lama (kind of banjo), flute, and tambourine and sometimes with a folk song. In the plays; themes like solidarity, love, faith, disaster, war, peace, nature, mankind, animal relationships based on religion, society and entertainment are performed and there are about 140 plots/ choreographies. Plays; consist of three parts as a¤›rlama, yanlama and yelleme. Rhythm wise they are 2/4, 4/4, 7/8 or 9/8. Tokat a¤›rlamas›, Tombul Makine K›z›k Halay›, Ellik Halay›, K›rat, Karadut, Ters Bico Çekirge Emine Can Kazova Yanlamas›, Temira¤a, Koççari, Mero Sar›k›z, Üçayak, Yaryand›m, Simsim, Kartal, Gönüller Semah› and Caucasion Dances (fieflen, Kafe, Vuig) are the ones performed often in the region. And also in rituals Hubyar Semah› and K›rklar Semah› are performed. Tokat A¤›rlamas› The welcoming, hosting and contending of the guests coming to the wedding are told. There are three different melodies and three parts as “a¤›rlama”, “yanlama” and “yelleme”. Omuz Halay› is another play within this play. The bride and her friends are picked up and brought to the groom’s house on horses. The groom and his friends kneel down to take the girls on horses on their shoulders. Simsim Usually played on wedding nights. Played around a big fire. Kartal Halay› Played with player imitating the eagle flying, floating and attacking its victim. Koyun Yüzü - Saya Gezme Deve Oyunu This play carrying dramatic elements, expresses the joy felt in the equinox when the sheep give birth to lambs. It is played with 12 people like the old man, bride, lover, beggar, etc who walk around the houses collect food and then eat together and have a good time. K›rklar Semah› (H›z›r Semah›) The whirling done in Tokat among the Alevi population is the same as the one done all over Anatolia. Ellik Play and Guinness Record Tokat made it in Guinness Book of Records, in August 2009, when 1040 people danced ‘Ellik Halay›’ a regional folk dance in Cumhuriyet Square in Tokat with the purpose of promoting Tokat to the world. traditional culture 139 Pehlili TRADITIONAL CUISINE dients to lentil and fettuchini and serve hot. Tokat with its history going back to 5000’s B.C. and being a geographic passage, has a rich cuisine culture with the influence of the different cultures it hosted. Meals Tokat Çöre¤i (cookie) Available all the time, “Tokat Çöre¤i” is an indispensable on the dinner table of all houses especially in Ramadan. Perfectly light for diabetics and made of chickpea yeast, “Tokat Çöre¤i” can be made plain as well as with walnut or with walnut and raisin. Soups Bacakl› Soup, Bütün Soup, Çatal Soup (Niksar Area), Erikli Soup (Niksar Area), Gendüme Soup, Mercimekli Hamur, Mercimekli Helle Soup, Yogurt Soup with Chickpeas, Pezüklü Toyga Soup, Green Bean Soup, Zo¤all› Soup (Niksar Area). Bacakl› Soup Ingredients: 1 cup eriflte (home made macaroni), 1 cup lentil, 2 onions, 1 tomato, 3 green Tokat peppers, 150 g salted fat, salt, black pepper, cumin, mint. Preparation: Pick lentil out clean, wash and boil in salted water. Add fettuchini in the boiling lentil. In a separate pot stir cubed onions and sauteed peppers to yellowish color in salted fat, add tomato. Add spices. Add the sauteed ingre- Ayval› Yahni (Meat Stew with Onions and Quince) (from Zile), Baklal› Sarma (Rolls with Broad Beans), Bat (with Walnut), Bulgur Domates Yeme¤i (Dish with Boiled and Pounded Wheat and Tomato), But Yarmas› (Dish with Rump Steak), Çökelekli Katmer (Flaky Pastry with “Çökelek” Cheese), Domates Biber Yeme¤i (Dish with Tomato and Pepper), Ebe Gömeci (Mallow), Ekmek Afl› (Dish with Bread), Erikli Yavan Sarma (Plain Rolls with Plums), Etli Bütün So¤an Yahnisi (Meat Stew with Whole Onion), Etli Yaprak Sarmas› (Rolls with Meat), Gelmifl, Haflhafll› ve Cevizli Parmak (Dish with Poppy and Walnut) (from Erbaa), Hafl›l, Ispanakl› M›hlama (Egg, Onion and Minced Meat Dish with Spinach), ‹flkefe, Kabak Kabu¤u Kavurmas› (Fried Marrow Skin), Keflkek, Kete (from Turhal), Kömeç Yeme¤i (“Kömeç” Dish), Kuru Bamya (Dried Okra), Kuru Patl›can Yeme¤i (Dried Aubergine Dish), Mad›mak, Mayal› Pifli (Fried Soft Dough with Yeast), Mercimekli Bulgur Pilav› (Boiled and Pounded Wheat with Lentil), Nivik, Pancar Dal› Silkelemesi (Dish with Beet), Pancar Yeme¤i (Dish with Beetroot), Patl›can Dizme (Aubergine Dish), Patl›canl› Pehli (“Pehli” with Aubergine) (from Zile), Pehli, P›rasa Sarmas› (Leek Rolls), Sirrun, Sohta Cörme, S›psi, Taze Fasulye traditional culturer 141 Tokat Kebab Kavurmas› (Fried Gren Beans), Tokat Kebab› (Tokat Kebab), Tokat Tavas› (Tokat Pan Dish), Turflulu (Dish with Pickles) (from Zile), Velibah (from Turhal), Yeflil Fasulyeli Bulgur Pilav› (Boiled and Pounded Wheat with Green Beans), Yo¤urtlu Zeytinya¤l› Patl›can (Aubergine with Yoghurt and Olive Oil), Yufkal› Pilav (Thin Sheet of Dough and Rice) (from Turhal), Yumurtal› Pürpürüm Kavurmas› (Fried “Pürpürüm” with Eggs), The flat bread of Tokat with minced meat and curd. Bat (With Walnuts) Ingredients: 1 cup boiled green lentil, 2 spoons tomato paste, 2 tomatoes, 2 onions, spring onions (3-5 sprouts), 200g grape leaves, 3 cups water, 1 small cup ground walnuts, 1 spoon dried basil, 1 bunch dills, 1 teaspoon paprika, and salt. Preparation: Boil the lentil and cool it off. Mix tomato paste, walnuts, washed and sliced tomatoes, dill, basil, onion, spring onion. Serve Bat with grape leaves and home made bread. Pehli Ingredients: 1.5 kg lamb, leg and loin (Karayaka lamb), 3 cups water, 2 spoons butter, salt. Preparation: Melt butter in a pan. Fry the meat well. Transfer to a cooker. Heat water and add on the meat. Cook over the stove. Add salt half hour later and cook the meat very well. Serve with rice pilaf and chickpeas and serve hot. Tokat Kebab Ingredients: 1.5kg fresh lamb meat, 500g tail fat, 1 kg eggplant, 1kg tomato, 300g pepper, 6 potatoes, 10 small onions, 6 teeth of garlic, 10 long lavash bread. Preparation: Cover the mid size sauteed meat with rock salt. Split the eggplants in half without peeling. Rub inner sides against each other using rock salt. Sautee to thumb size. Peel the potatoes and cut into half cm circles. Rub the kebab shishes tail fat. Later on the shishes string the in the order of 1 piece of tail fat, 1 whole garlic, 1 piece of sauteed meat, 1 piece of eggplant, 1 piece of potato. Use 1 whole garlic in each shish. Cut the tomatoes in half and place on the tray of the kebab stove. Align the shishes on the stove in the order of cooking and place on the pan with the tomatoes. After cooking for 20-30 minutes, place the shishes on the tray lined with lavash bread. Place the tomatoes in the middle. Add kebab fat in the middle of tomato. This meal is cooked in special stoves made with the soil found in old Tokat houses. Tokat kebab is a ritual from preparation to cooking to eating manners. It is cultural treasure left by the people of pleasure and leisure. The oven of the Tokat kebab is an indispensable tradition of Tokat vineyards. To be able to make thetraditional culture 143 T›rt›l Baklava se ovens is a measure of mastering and value in Tokat area. Every ingredient of the kebab requires skill. It is said that Tokat oven is the most advanced among Anatolian civilizations. With its special built it avoids direct contact of the food with heat; meaning, the vegetable and meat is both grilled and placed into the oven with the perspiration technique. The vegetables and meat are hung inside the oven and this way they are cooked evenly. Tokat kebab is easy to digest although the opposite might be thought, since it is cooked in dry heat. When the old ovens are examined it is seen that in the past Tokat kebab was cooked in ovens that were heated without facing fire. But later when commercialized to catch up with time, Tokat kebab started being cooked in valonia wood fire and lasted till today. Basta-fiipsi (Caucasian Cuisine) Ingredients: 1 big chicken, 2 onions, half cup olive oil, 3-4 teeth garlic, sea salt, black pepper, water, 1 spoon butter, 2 spoons flour, 1 spoon tomato paste, 1 cup bulgur. Preparation: Smoke the chicken and then wash and chop. Fry sauteed onions in oil, add the chopped chicken. Add the garlic and stir for a while. Add black pepper and salt and cover with water and boil. In a separate pan stir the flour with butter a little, add tomato paste and continue to stir. Add chicken broth. When boiled add the chopped chicken and cook for 10 minutes. For the Basta boil the bulgur, water and salt mixture. Mesh the boiled bulgur with a spoon, to help chicken broth can be added. When meshed thoroughly (to a smooth paste) transfer to a round tray and flatten, make a hole in the center. While serving, put the meat on the sides and the soup in the hole in the center. Desserts Kuru Erik Tatl›s› (Dried Plum Dessert), Leylek Gili¤i, Pancar Tatl›s› (Beetroot Dessert) (from Turhal), Pekmez Helvas› (Halva with Grape Molasses) (from Turhal), Yufka Tatl›s› (Dessert with Thin Sheet of Dough). Dried Plum Dessert Ingredients: 500g dried plum, sugar, water, 1 cup ground walnut. Recipe: Wash the plums. Fill a pan with water up to an inch above plums. Cook the plums for about 10 minutes till they get soft. Add 2 cups sugar, cook for 7 minutes and taste. Amount of sugar can be adjusted. Boil with the lid off till the water gets syrupy. Place in a flat plate and leave to cool off. Add walnuts when cool. Vine leaves of Tokat, rosehip, Zile grape molasses are the hightlights of Tokat cuisine, one should taste. traditional culture 145 VERBAL CULTURE In Tokat developed on an amazing historical treasure, like allover Anatolia and in near geographies and idioms are an important part of daily life. 146 To pull the axe out of wood: To figure a difficult matter out To burst out of skin: To get very mad, angry. To pull out nine carts of grass out of where nine sheep can’t feed: To take advantage of even the most unsuitable situations. To settle in ones bed: To learn the job and take it in own hands To drop an eye: To gape in envy To hunt flies in a dream: To talk nonsense To milk down on the ground: To beg in vain He is chipping eggshells: Used for very stingy people. They turned him into an ox by praising, and grew his horn: To compliment exaggeratingly and drift away from reality. Row meat looks ugly: To criticize cruel behavior Riddles The most important part of the cultural life of the region is the natural life and natural events. This can also be observed in riddles. traditional culture My door’s threshold, my baby’s cradle. (Tree, wood) Ali Bey’s mule carries forty adventures. (Hedgehog) A scream, a yell, comes out a silver ball. (Egg) I have a strainer full of chicks; I throw them in the evening and collect in the morning. (Star) Two chickens in a tray, one is hot one is cold. (Sun-moon) Walk gently leave no trace, walk fast leave no dust. (Shadow) I kicked it rolled, I kissed it got sweet, honey and almond, a nice Adam. (Melon) Layered but not layered; red but not apple; eaten but not fruit. (Onion) Grows without sowing, and enough for the world. (Salt) Has a tiny nose. Has a belly like a jar. (Chickpea) I threw out the minaret, it passed out. It fell in the water and spread out. (Cotton) I looked from a distance it was red. I got near it was honey. (Cherry) Calls for prayer but does not pray, takes women but does not marry. (Rooster) A beetle with seven holes; who does not know this riddle is a fool. (Head) Benedictions and Maledictions Benedictions emphasize wishes for good health, a good li- fe, a family with children, riches and benevolent children. These are wishes for states that identify one’s status in social life. Benedictions are quite important in displaying the values of the region. May God keep your head off the pillow. May God keep your head up May God grow your seeds green. May your one pocket be full of gold and the other of silver. May your goodness stand against evil. May God keep your heart from burning. May God give you good health. Maledictions verbalize evil wishes more on the basis of social phenomena. These invoke evil upon people in order that face difficulties can be faced or to counter malice. May God see me but take you. May your bride’s veil stay folded. May you get beaten by your step mother. May you wander around like crazy. May you collapse. Mani (Rhymed Folk Sayings) Tokat poems, which are the fine and straightforward way of expressing anonymous sayings, and are generally in a stanza with seven syllables, are a great source in folk literature. Poems in Tokat are still alive today: Are the mountain tops snowy? Are their passages narrow? Are the girls of Tokat Sweethearts that can be neglected? No quince, no pomegranate Death to me is not shame I fell apart from Tokat The years are endless In the hand the cup shivers On the arm the coral shivers When the sweetheart approaches The tongue speaks, the heart shivers. Lullabies Kitty kitty said meow One little spoon of butter she said If not butter than honey would do May my baby be alive. My son my hip son Sell white silk mu son Let the girls weave it You sleep on it my son My girl, my pure girl Go look out the door my girl On that chubby white hand of yours Put on bright henna my girl traditional culture 147 CHRONOLOGY 5400 – 3300/3000 B.C. Chalcolithic Age: Dere Mahallesi Settlement and Graveyard Kozlu Atelier in Erbaa; Aklaya Mound, Destimelik Hill Settlement, Karayin Mound, Okçutepe Mound, Viran Mosque Mound and Akdo¤an Mound in Zile. 3300/3000 – 1900/1800 B.C. Early Bronze Age: 148 The best known Early Bronze Age center within Tokat borders is Maflat Mound in 20 km southeast of Zile. Another important center in the region is Horoztepe Mound. 1650 – 1450 B.C. Old Hittite Kingdom Era: One of the best preserved and most interesting places of this era is Maflat Mound near Yal›nyaz› Village of Zile (with its Hittie name ‘Tapigga’). This center was first heard of after the discovery of a tablet during the excavations of the mound in 1943. 1450 – 1190 B.C. The Great Hittite Empire Era: Settlements of Old Hittite Kingdom and later Great Hittite Empire founded after Chalcolithic and Early Bronze Ages are scattered over the watery valleys and fertile plains of Tokat. 1190’S B.C. Aegean Migration Movement of Tribes: This movement, one of the biggest reasons of the col lapse of the Hittite Empire, coming from north of Greece in 1200s B.C. and passing through Thrace has affected the geography and political structure of Central Anatolia and determined its shape that was to last for long years. 800 – 696 B.C. The Phrygian State: The Phrygrian State has captured K›z›l›rmak and Konya areas and the highlands of Central Anatolia during the period of King Midas. This way the Phrygian State held the total of today’s Tokat until its departure from history stage in 6th century B.C. SINCE 696 B.C. Kimmerian and Scythian Raids: Among the warrior and cavalier nations Kimmers and Scythians are societies who lived in wide Eurasia steppes from Tuna River basin in the west to China in east and adopted nomadic life styles. chronology 550 – 330 B.C. Persian State Era: The most important action of Darius, the second famous ruler of Persians who ended Med rule in ‹ran in 550’s B.C., was the administrative structuring. He divided the Empire into 23 satrapies (provincial gorvernorship with military authority). Tokat, at first in the 2nd satrapy which covered a large area together with Erzincan (Eriza-Azi-riz) and Sivas areas, later remained within the borders of Great Cappadocia (Katputukya: Land of Beautiful Horses). 336 – 323 B.C. Era of Alexander the Great: Alexander, was affective in spreading of Ancient Greek Civilization to the east and became a legendary hero. He finished the conquest of West Anatolia in the winter of 334–333 B.C. He took over all of Asia Minor and Mesopotamia after winning Issos War in 333 B.C. 301 – 64/3 B.C. Pontus State Era: Pontus Kingdom the only Anatolian State that defend ed the political integrity of Anatolia against Rome’s “Dividi et imperia” (divide and rule/ own) approach, was the ruling power of the region for 350 years before Roman Era. 64/3 B.C.–395 A.D. Roman Empire Era in the region: Julius Caesar came to Zile, Tokat in 47 B.C. and met the armies of Pharnake 2, the king of Basforos of Pontus origin who revolted against Rome, in Alt›a¤aç region. Everything was covered in five hours and Caesar who came along way and won a big victory had reported this to Rome as “Veni, vidi, vici” (I came, I saw, I conquered). 395 The start of the Byzantine Empire Era: Byzantium the ruling power of the region in 4th and 5th centuries, based its political structure on districts called “thema”. The area that starts right in east of Sinop covering today’s Tokat and Amasya and extends to the coast of Çarflamba-Terme and the south parts of Sivas in the south was named as “Armeniakon Thema” in Byzantium. chronology 149 625 150 Sasanian attack on Tokat Sasanis who entered Anatolia from the south in 625 was stopped by Byzantium army nearby Tokat-Sivas. 712 The Arabic raids that first started in 634 reached the maximum in 712 when the Arabic army under the com mand of Meleme conquered the region including Tokat to Black Sea. 732 The Arabic army under the famous Arabic commander Muaviye bin H›flam attacked Tokat and surroundings over Amasya during the period of Byzantium Emperor Leon 3 (717 – 741). However could not succeed despite highly damaging Byzantium armies. 740 When Muaviye Bin H›flam was not successful, Suleiman bin H›flam attacked Byzantium armies in and around Tokat and Tokat was taken over by Arabs again. 860 Hasan bin Kahtaba an Abbasi commander and Malik bin Abdullah attacked Tokat to badly defeat the Byzantium armies in the fronts of Tokat. 1073 Although Normans took over parts of Niksar and Amasya, that did not last very long. 1074 Tokat was conquered by Danishmend Ahmed Gazi. Besides Tokat, Gümenek (Komana), Turhal (Talaura), Zile (Zela), Amasya, Çorum, ‹skilip, Osmanc›k, Malatya and Sivas cities went under the rule of Danishmend. 1105 Danishmend Gazi was killed in the battle that he made against Byzantium and was buried in the tomb built to his name in Niksar. 1127 The headquarters of Danishmend was moved from Niksar to Malatya in 1127. 1139 – 1141 The Byzantium Emperor Ioannes sieged Niksar in 1139 to move Turks out of Anatolia. However the siege did not give the result that Byzantium army expected and Byzantium withdrew in 1141. 1143 Danishmend Principality was divided into three parts after Melik Mehmed Gazi’s death. Melik Mehmed’s son Zünnun started to rule Kayseri, while his brother Aynüddevle ruled Malatya’s and Ya¤›basan ruled Sivas and Tokat’s surroundings. 1143 – 1144 Danishmend Bey (lord) Nizameddin Ya¤›basan, (1142-1164) started construction work in Tokat. Ulua Camii (Mosque), Ya¤›basan Madrasah, Danishmend Gazi Tomb carry the traces of the Principality to our time. 1145 Niksar Ulu Mosque, a building that endured from the time of Danishmend Principality to our time was built in 1145. chronology 1152 Çukur/Ya¤›basan Madrasah is believed to belong to Ya¤›basan period (1142–1164) and to be built in the mid of 12th century, probably a few years after the Madrasah in Niksar. 1157 - 1158 The epigraph of Niksar Ya¤›basan Madrasah dated (1158) was found in Melik Gazi Tomb by ‹.H. Uzunçarfl›l›. K. fiahin however recorded the date of the epigraph as (1157). Although the name of Ya¤›basan is in the epigraph, the builder of the building is registered as Nizameddin Ya¤›basan and Ali A¤a in the Education Almanak dated 1897–1898. 1175 Seljuk ruler K›l›çarslan 2 wanted to maintain absolute unity in Anatolia. For this reason he took over all of Danishmend Principality including Sivas and Tokat. Before his death K›l›çarslan divided Anatolian Seljuk State among his 11 sons. He left Tokat and surround ings to his son Rükneddin Süleymanflah. 1240 Turkomans of Tokat joined the insurgency of Baba ‹shak. 1277 It was determined that Gök Madrasah was built in 1277; it was started by Anatolian Seljuk statesman Pervane Muineddin Süleyman in that year and was completed by the daughter or a relative of the visier. 1289 Niksar was swept off by a flood. 1296 To¤açar Noyan governor of ‹lhanl› rioted Tokat. 1327 – 1381 As the successors of ‹lhanl›lar, first Sivas and then Eretna Principality with its center in Kayseri were founded in Tokat and surroundings. 1381 – 1399 After the death of the last Eretna ruler Ali Bey, Kad› Burhaneddin, took over the seigniory by killing his son Mehmed II whom he was the regent to. In 1381 he defeated his rival Hac› fiadgeldi the ameer of Amasya and announced his reign. Kad› Burhaneddin who expanded the borders of the seignior state by invading Niksar in 1387 and Turhal in 1388, have also invaded Tokat but was not able to take over the city. After the years lasting struggle with Zile, Turhal, Niksar and Tokat ameers, the local people asked for the help of Y›ld›r›m Bayezid. After that Y›ld›r›m Bayezid’s son Süleyman Çelebi took over Sivas, Amasya and Tokat in 1392. As per Evliya Çelebi, Y›ld›r›m Bayezid who named Tokat as Darü’n Nasr, has also had money printed here. Tokat and its surrounding could become Ottoman land entirely only in 1399. 1474 The name of Meydan Mosque built in the name of Bayezid II’s mother Gülbahar Hatun is Hatuniye Mosque in registeries. chronology 151 1518 1572 152 1535 1617 1684 1863 1878 1883 Celâl from Turhal and also a Bozok Turkoman man aged to gather a great power like 20.000 people around him when he revolted againts Ottoman Empire. Ali Pafla Mosque in the south of Cumhuriyet Square, an important Ottoman building built by Ali Pafla during the period of Selim II. Behzat Mosque, built by Hoca Behzat the son of Fakih in Kanuni Sultan Süleyman period, is near Behzat Creek in Behzat Bazaar one of the characteristic places of Tokat. “The voivodeship of Sultanas (Mothers of Sultans) took place”. Tokat and surroundings were greatly damaged in the 1684 earthquake. Tokat became a “district”. Tokat was accepted as “governorship”. Tokat became a “shire” in 1883. 25 February 1919 Turkish Greeks, who were a mi nority group in Tokat before the Independence War, initiated activities aimed at founding a Pontus State in the region including Tokat and Samsun was desig nated as a centre. Muslims living in Tokat established the Tokat Branch of “Defense of the Rights of Black Sea Turks” as a precaution. 1920 Was identified as an “Independent shire" 26 June 1919 Mustafa Kemal Atatürk spent the night of June 26-27 1919 in Tokat when he was sent to Anatolia as the examiner of 9th Army. chronology BIBLIOGRAPHY ACUNSAL, Ferit, Gerçeklerin Diliyle Tokat, ‹stanbul 1948. ADIGÜZEL, Selahattin, Gülü Barda¤ ‹çinde Tokat’ta Folklor, Tokat, 2004 ASLANAPA, Oktay, Türk Sanat›, C.1 – 2, Kervan Yay›nlar›, ‹stanbul 1984. BAKIRER, Ömür, “Sivas Darüflflifas› Türbe Cephesinde Geometrik Süslemenin Tasar›m›”, 1. Araflt›rma Sonuçlar› Toplant›s›, s. 161-166 (resimler s. 299-302) ‹stanbul 1983. CANTAY Gönül, “Tokat’ta T›p Medresesi ve fiifahanesi”, Bilim ve Teknik Dergisi ÇAL, Halit, “Tokat Evleri”, Türk Tarihinde ve Kültüründe Tokat Sempozyumu 2-6 Temmuz 1986, s. 365-418 ÇAL, Halit, “Zile Grand Mosque”, E.Ü. Sanat Tarihi Dergisi, C.7, s.27 – 51, ‹zmir 1994. DEM‹R, Necati, Daniflment Gazi Destan›, Niksar Belediyesi Yay›nlar›, Tokat 2005. 153 DEM‹R, Necati, Tokat ‹li ve Yöresi A¤›zlar›, Niksar Belediyesi Yay›nlar›, Tokat 2005. DEN‹Z, Bekir, “Anadolu- Türk Dokuma Sanat›nda Cicim”, E.Ü. Sanat Tarihi Dergisi. C.7, s. 59 – 66, ‹zmir 1994. ERAVfiAR, Osman Tokat Tarihi Su Yap›lar›, Arkeoloji ve Sanat Yay›nlar›, ‹stanbul 2005. ERDEM, Sargon, “Tokat Kelimesi Üzerine Düflünceler”, Türk Tarihinde ve Kültüründe Tokat Sempozyumu 2-6 Temmuz 1986, s. 11-16 ERDEM‹R, Yaflar, “Tokat Yöresindeki Ahflap Camilerin Kültürümüzdeki Yeri”, Türk Tarihinde ve Kültüründe Tokat Sempozyumu 2-6 Temmuz 1986, s. 295-312 EY‹CE, Semavi, “Divri¤i Ulu Camii ve Darrüflifas›”, Vak›flar Dergisi, Vak›flar Genel Müdürlü¤ü Yay›nlar›, Ankara 1998. EY‹CE, Semavi, Contributions a L’Histoire de L’Art Byzantin: Quatre Edifices Inédits ou Mal Connus III. Un Mausolée Musulman (?) a décoration céramoplastique a Tokat” CHARIES ARCHEOLOGIQUE, N.10, Paris 1945-1959. GÖDE, Kemal, “XIV. Yüzy›lda Tokat/Eretnal›lar Hâkimiyetinde Tokat”, Türk Tarihinde ve Kültüründe Tokat Sempozyumu 2-6 Temmuz 1986, s. 17-22 bibliography KURAN, Aptullah, “Tokat ve Niksar’da Ya¤›-Basan Medreseleri”, Vak›flar Dergisi, C.7, ÖKSE, Tu¤ba, “Sivas ‹li Yüzey Araflt›rmas›”, 12. Araflt›rma Sonuçlar› Toplant›s›, s. 317-330, Ankara 1995. ÖKSE, Tu¤ba, “Sivas ‹li Yüzey Araflt›rmas›”, 13. Araflt›rma Sonuçlar› Toplant›s›, s. 205-228, Ankara 1996. ÖKSE, Tu¤ba, “Sivas ‹li Yüzey Araflt›rmas›”, 14. Araflt›rma Sonuçlar› Toplant›s›, s. 375-400, Ankara 1996. ÖKSE, Tu¤ba, “Sivas ‹li Yüzey Araflt›rmas›”, 19. Araflt›rma Sonuçlar› Toplant›s›, s. 229-238, Ankara 2001. ÖZCAN, Birsen, “Sulusaray – 1990 Kurtarma Kaz›s›”, 2. Müze Kurtarma Kaz›s› Semineri, s.167 – 187, Ankara 1992. ÖZCAN, Birsen, “Sulusaray – Sebastopolis Antik Kenti”, 1. Müze Kurtarma Kaz›s› Semineri, s.261 – 308, Ankara 1991. ÖZGÜÇ, T., Maflat Höyük, II. Bo¤azköy’ün Kuzeydo¤usunda Bir 154 Hitit Merkezi, TTYK V.-38a, s. 39-43, Ankara 1982. ÖZSA‹T, Mehmet, “1997-98 Y›l› Tokat-Zile Çevresi Yüzey Araflt›rmalar›”, 17. Araflt›rma Sonuçlar› Toplant›s›, C. XVII, s. 7388, Ankara, 2000. ÖZSA‹T, Mehmet, “1997 Y›l› Tokat ‹li ve Çevresi Yüzey Araflt›rmalar›”, 17. Araflt›rma Sonuçlar› Toplant›s›, s. 1-14 (harita ve resimler 73-88), Ankara 2000. SAVAfi, Saim, “Tokat’ta Hoca Sünbül Zaviyesi”, Vak›flar Dergisi, C. 24, s. 199 – 205, Ankara 1994. fiAH‹N, Kamil, Daniflmendliler Dönemi’nde Niksar, 1999 fiAH‹N, M.Adnan, ‹çinde“kiler”: Tokat Bölge Mutfa¤›, Ankara 2003. TÜRK TAR‹H‹NDE VE KÜLTÜRÜNDE TOKAT SEMPOZYUMU, ANKARA 1987. TÜRKER, Kemal, A¤aç Bask› Tokat Yazmalar›, Türkiye ‹fl Bankas› Kültür Yay›nlar›, Nisan 1996. UYSAL, A. Osman, “Tokat’taki Osmanl› Camileri”, Türk Tarihinde ve Kültüründe Tokat Sempozyumu 2-6 Temmuz 1986, s. 313-364 ÜÇER, Müjgan, “Tokat Efsaneleri, ‹nan›fllar›”, Türk Tarihinde ve Kültüründe Tokat Sempozyumu 2-6 Temmuz 1986, s. 217-230 YAV‹, Ersal, Tokat, Tokat Otelcilik ve Turizm Yay›n›, Tokat 1987 bibliography USEFUL INFORMATION GENERAL INFORMATION AREA AND POPULATION The surface area of the city is 9.958 km2 Last recorded population of the city is 624.439. EMERGENCY NUMBERS Ambulance Police Gendarme Fire 112 155 156 110 AVERAGE HIGHEST TEMPERATURES Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun July Agu Sep Oct Nov Dec 9.4 9.0 12.7 19.1 23.3 25.8 30.5 32.3 26.6 17.5 11.8 8.4 AVERAGE LOWEST TEMPERATURES 156 Jan Feb May Apr May Jun July Agu Sep Oct Nov Dec 0.5 0.1 2.5 16.2 12.5 16.7 17.9 12.6 7.9 3.3 0.6 7.5 Temperatures are in ºC. OFFICIAL INFORMATION GOVERNORSHIP GOP Bulvar› Cumhuriyet Meydan› Tokat T. +90 356 214 10 01 F. +90 356 214 54 54 www.tokat.gov.tr MUNICIPALITY GOP Bulvar› No:184 Tokat T. +90 356 214 22 20 F +90 356 212 07 07 www.tokat-bld.gov.tr TOKAT CITY GOVERNOR ADMINISTRATIVE STRUCTURE Atatürk Kültür Saray› Tokat T. +90 356 228 90 30 F. +90 356 228 90 38 www.tokatozelidare.gov.tr POLICE STATION Uzunburun Tokat Phone 0356 214 55 40 www.tokat.pol.tr useful information GOP UNIVERSITY GOP Üniversitesi 60250 Tokat T. +90 356 252 16 16 F. +90 356 252 16 27 www.gop edu.tr TOKAT CHAMBER OF COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY GOP Bulvar› No: 412 Tokat T. +90 356 214 10 33 F. +90 356 214 50 40 www.tokattso.org.tr TRAVEL TO TOKAT TOURISM OFFICE T. +90 356 214 82 52 TRANSPORTATION DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL TRANSPORTATION TOKAT AIRPORT T. +90 356 238 73 30 157 BUS TERMINAL T. +90 356 214 24 12 TOPÇAM TOURISM Cumhurtiyet Meydan› Next to the Municipality Building No: 1 Tokat T. +90 356 444 00 60 F. +90 356 212 86 86 www.topcam.com.tr TOKAT SEYAHAT Cumhurtiyet Meydan› Next to the Governor Building, Latif Han No:1 Tokat T. +90 356 444 11 60 F. +90 356 212 60 05 www.tokatseyahat.com.tr TOKAT STAR Cumhurtiyet Meydan› Next to the Municipality Building TOKAT T. +90 356 444 00 90 www.tokatyildizi.com.tr TRAVEL AGENCIES AY fiAFAK AIR GOP Bulvar› Next to Sivri Dervish Lodge 8. Street 1/C Tokat T. +90 356 214 72 54 F. +90 356 212 41 69 useful information KOMANA TOURISM Cumhurtiyet Meydan› Latif Han No: 1 Tokat Phone. +90 356 212 00 34 Fax. +90356 212 69 29 HOTELS CITY CENTER GRAND BALLICA HOTEL **** Tokat-Turhal Highway Tokat T. +90 356 232 08 08 F. +90 356 232 08 00 Room: 100 Bed:200 www.grandballica.com.tr BÜYÜK TOKAT OTEL‹ 158 **** Demirköprü Karfl›yaka Tokat T. +90 356 229 17 00 F. +90 356 229 17 06 Room: 59 Bed: 120 ‹fiER‹ HOTEL Cumhuriyet Meydan› Tokat T. +90 356 214 80 00 F. +90 356 214 99 55 www.iseriotel.com Room: 40 Bed: 76 ÇAVUfiO⁄LU HOTEL ** GOP Bulvar› No: 168 Tokat T. +90 356 212 28 29 F. +90 356 212 12 69 Room: 28 Bed: 58 YEN‹ ÇINAR HOTEL GOP Bulvar› Tokat T. +90 356 214 00 66 F. +90 356 213 19 27 Room: 32 Bed: 82 useful information GÜNDÜZ HOTEL GOP Bulvar› No: 200 TOKAT T/F +90 356 212 12 78 N‹KSAR DORUK HOTEL ‹K‹ZO⁄ULLARI HOLIDAY VILLAGE Çamiçi Plateau Ünye Road Niksar Tokat T. +90 356 542 14 44 F. +90 356 542 14 14 Room: 22 Bed: 55 ERBAA ÖNDER HOTEL ** Cumhuriyet Mah. Hükümet cad. No:120 Erbaa – Tokat T. +90 356 716 03 00 Room: 50 RESTAURANTS CITY CENTER 159 ‹fiER‹ HOTEL RESTAURANT Cumhuriyet Meydan› Tokat T. +90 356 214 80 00 F. +90356 212 99 55 www.iseriotel.com Turkish Cuisine C 07.00 – 24.00 ‹fiER‹ PETROL RESTAURANT Sivas Hihgway ‹fleri Dinlenme Tesisleri Geyraz - Tokat T. +90 356 213 13 63 F. +90356 214 97 33 Turkish Cuisine C 09.00 – 24.00 LIVA RESTAURANT 600 Evler Kavfla¤› Ç›nar Sitesi Tokat T. +90 356 228 70 00 F. +90 356 229 00 78 07.30 – 23.30 Turkish and International Cuisine C 07.30 – 23.30 m Live Music on Tuesdays and Fridays useful information SULTAN RESTAURANT Cumhuriyet Meydan›, Ulaflo¤lu ‹fl Merkezi TOKAT T. +90 356 214 81 47 Turkish Cuisine C 07.00 – 23.00 YEfi‹L VAD‹ RESTAURANT Sivas Highway, Next to Saraço¤lu Fountain Geyraz - Tokat T. +90 356 214 44 66 Turkish Cuisine C10.00 – 24.00 KENT RESTAURANT GOP Bulvar› Kentmar Shopping Center TOKAT GÜNEfi RESTAURANT Taflköprü TOKAT T. +90 356 212 49 02 160 YEN‹ HUZUR RESTAURANT Sivas Cad. Next to Meridyen Shopping Center TOKAT T. +90 356 214 26 85 SAKLIBAHÇE RESTAURANT Sivas Highway, Fatih Mosque TOKAT T. +90 356 214 12 34 T. +90 356 214 12 34 KARAGÖZ HAC‹VAT RESTAURANT GOP Bulvar› 257/B TOKAT T. +90 356 212 94 18 SARNIÇ Dr.Remzi Topçam Cad. No: 2 TOKAT T. +90 356 212 67 00 TOKAT SOFRASI Across Ali Pafla Hamam› No:5 TOKAT T. +90 356 213 38 18 PARAD‹SE Kiler Shopping Center TOKAT useful information OCAKBAfiI Next to Governor Building, behind the Atatürk Statue TOKAT T. +90 356 212 67 68 HOCAO⁄LU KEBAB SYMBOLS GOP Bulvar›, next to the overpass TOKAT MER‹DYEN RESTAURANT Next to the Latifo¤lu Mansion, Meridyen Shopping Center TOKAT YEfi‹LPARK RESTAURANT Across Medical Park Hospital TOKAT fiEHRAZAT RESTAURANT Sivas Highway, Yeflilvadi TOKAT h t @ C k d m Pool Meeting Room Internet Cuisine Opening Hours Alcholic Drinks Credit Card Outdoor Seating Live Music Phone HANEDAN RESTAURANT Next to Meydan Mosque TOKAT MAHPER‹ HATUN CARAVANSARY Pazar TOKAT T. +90 356 261 39 00 161 MEDICAL SERVICES HOSPITALS GOP UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL OF SCHOOL OF MEDICINE Next to the Tokat Dr. Cevdet Aykan State Hospital Tokat T. +90 356 212 95 00 www.gop.edu.tr TOKAT DR. CEVDET AYKAN STATE HOSPITAL T. +90 356 214 54 00 KARfiIYAKA OBSTETRIC AND CHILDREN NURSERY HOSPITAL 600 Evler Karfl›yaka Tokat T. +90 356 228 42 00 VAL‹ RECEP YAZICIO⁄LU STATE HOSPITAL GOP Bulvar›, Sivas Road, (former SSK Hospital) Tokat T. +90 356 212 23 81 MED‹CAL PARK HOSPITAL Yeflil›rmak Mah. Vali Zekai Gümüfldifl Cad. No:29 TOKAT T. +90 356 214 01 11 F. +90 356 213 02 02 www.medicalpark.com.tr useful information DAILY LIFE BANKS VAKIFBANK GOP Bulvar› Tokat T. +90 356 214 15 67 www.vakifbank.com.tr Z‹RAAT BANK GOP Bulvar› Tokat T. +90 356 214 32 50 www.ziraat.com.tr HALKBANK GOP Bulvar› No: 88 TOKAT T. +90 356 214 10 30 F. +90 356 214 30 93 www.halkbank.com.tr 162 CARGO SERVICES ARAS CARGO Yeflil›rmak Mah. Çeçenistan Cad. No: 9/B Tokat T. +90 356 214 81 45 www.araskargo.com.tr MNG CARGO Yeflil›rmak Mah. Çeçenistan Cad. No: 22 Tokat T. +90 356 213 07 50 www.mngkargo.com.tr SÜRAT CARGO Alipafla Mah. Gazipafla Cad. 4. Sokak No: 9 Tokat T. +90 356 212 00 01 www.suratkargo.com.tr UPS CARGO Yeflilirmak Mah. GOP Bulvar› 4. Sokak No: 7/A Tokat T. +90 356 213 19 61 www.ups.com.tr VARAN CARGO Yeflilirmak Mah.Ça¤gölü Cad. Gizem Apt. No: 13/B Tokat T. +90 356 212 80 63 www.varankargo.com.tr useful information YURT‹Ç‹ CARGO Mustafa Satan Mah. Gülbahar Hatun Cad.2. Sokak No: 6/D Tokat T. +90 356 214 47 78 www.yurticikargo.com CULTURE AND ART CENTERS 26 HAZ‹RAN ATATÜRK CULTURE CENTER Karfl›yaka Tokat T. +90 356 228 90 30 F. +90 356 228 90 38 CINEMAS V‹ZYON Özel ‹dare ‹flhan› Kat: 2 TOKAT T. +90 356 212 17 52 ASBERK Kiler Shopping Center Tokat T. +90 356 214 11 96 163 FESTIVALS Z‹LE Z‹LE CHERRY FESTIVAL Place: Zile Date: Second week of June Organization: Zile Municipality T. +90 356 317 50 80 ALMUS ALMUS SOUR CHERRY FESTIVAL Place: Almus Date: July 11 – 12 Organization: Almus Municipality ERBAA TRADITIONAL PLATEAU FESTIVAL AND CULTURAL ACTIVITIES Place: Erbaa Date: July 15 – 17 Organization: Erbaa Municipality T. +90 356 534 41 41 useful information BAfiÇ‹FTL‹K BAfiÇ‹FTL‹K CULTURE AND ART FESTIVAL Place: Baflçiftlik Date: 05 – 06 August Organization: Baflçiftlik Municipality T.+90 356 451 20 01 TOKAT KAZOVA – KELK‹T – TOPÇAM GOLDEN TOMATO FESTIVAL Place: Merkez Borough Date: August Organization: Tokat Governorship, Tokat Municipality, Gaziosmanpafla University T. +90 356 228 07 00 N‹KSAR CONQUEST OF N‹KSAR AND TRADITIONAL CIRCUMCISION FEAST ACTIVITIES Place: Niksar Date: August 24 Organization: Niksar Municipality TURHAL 164 TURHAL CULTURE AND ART FESTIVAL Place: Turhal Date: 29 August- 04 September Organization: Turhal Municipality T. +90 356 276 11 92 SOUVENIRS IN TOKAT Tokat, the production center of most beautiful kerchieves for sultans of Ottoman palaces is stil the center and various hand painted kerchieves are sold mostly at “Yazmac›lar Çarfl›s›”. Antikac›lar Çarfl›s›, located at the end of Sulusokak (Street) is a remarkable marketplace for ones who are interested in antiques. K›z›k Kilimleri, in Merkez K›z›k Village, has an authentic atmosphere that you can feel the traditional Tokat homes. Also you can buy hand made rugs and carpets as elegant souvenirs for your friends or just for yourself to remember your great trip to Tokat. TOURISM ACTIVITIES MUSEUMS GÖK MEDRESE TOKAT MUSEUM GOP Bulvar› No: 155 Tokat T. +90 356 214 15 09 F. +90 356214 52 61 www.tokatmuseum.org.tr useful information Ball›ca Cave TOKAT MEVLEV‹HANES‹ MUSEUM So¤ukp›nar Mah. Beyhamam Sok. Tokat T. +90 356 213 30 83 LAT‹FO⁄LU MANSION MUSEUM 165 GOP Bulvar› Aksu Mh. Tokat T. +90 356 214 36 84 ATATÜRK HOUSE AND ETHNOGRAPHY MUSEUM Devegörmez Mah. No:23 Tokat T. +90 356 214 54 99 – 214 37 53 CAVES BALLICA CAVE Ball›ca Cave Pazar - Tokat T. +90 356 261 42 36 Ball›ca Cave is in Ball›ca Village of Pazar town 26km southwest of Tokat. The distance to the town center center is 8km and the altitude is 1,085m. Ball›ca Cave is 680 m long and 95m high. 8 halls of the cave is open for visitors. This natural wonder preserves its mystery with the sections that are not yet discovered. The age of the cave is determined to be around 3.4 million years. Observing the natural formations in Ball›ca Cave is like being in a natural museum. The cave has an international importance with the onion formed stalactites. The oxygen rich air of the cave with average temperature 18 ºC and average humidity 54%, makes breathing easier. useful information Lake Kaz ECO-TOURISM Tokat, is among the cities joining the Ecological Agriculture and Voluntary Exchange Project (Ta Tu Ta) organized by Bu¤day Association for Supporting Ecological Life. www.bugday.org KÜÇÜK A⁄A FARM 166 Sulugöl Village Niksar Tokat Davut Koçer and his family host their guests in an 8 room area they arranged on the second floor of their house. The Farm also works on popularizing organic agriculture. Reservation: Gençtur, +90 212 244 62 30 FISHING In Tokat there are many places for line fishing. Almus Dam Lake - Almus Boztepe Dam Lake - Y›ld›ztepe, Zile Gökçeyol Pond – Central district Bedirkale Pond - Central district Lake Kaz - Pazar Lake Güllüköy - Refladiye Lake Zinav - Refladiye BIRD WATCHING LAKE KAZ Lake Kaz, among the most significant of Tokat’s nature spots, hosts many bird kinds. Therefore it is a preferred place for bird watching. PLATEAUS There are many plateaus in Tokat and its surroundings. The plateaus are areas which the locals use for summer living. Some plateaus are worth attention by the services they offer besides the natural beauties. useful information Paragliding SELEMEN PLATEAU The plateau in Refladiye is famous for its Friday market where the trade is done in the old way by exchanging merchandise. AKBELEN (B‹ZER‹) PLATEAU The plateau 29 km from city center is at 1740m of altitude. There are suitable areas for grass skiing on the plateau that is surrounded by pine and beech forests. ÇAM‹Ç‹ PLATEAU 167 The plateau in Niksar is on Canik Mountains of Tokat along Black Sea coastline. Accomodation is provided in the plateau. CLIMBING AKDA⁄ TEPE Alan Plateau – Akda¤ Hill (2000m), are significant spots for climbing and hiking. Line fishing is done in the lagoon in the skirts of Akda¤ and the pine woods, near the lagoon, is used as a picnic area. PARAGLIDING fiENYURT There are suitable paragliding places in fienyurt of Turhal. SAMAN MOUNTAIN 1800 m Saman Mountain in Baflçiftlik borough is the first place paragliding was tried in Tokat. RAFTING Kelkit Creek in Erbaa is the most suitable place for rafting. useful information Almus Dam Lake WATER SPORTS ALMUS DAM LAKE There are several possibilities of water sports in Almus Reservoir Lake THERMAL SPRINGS SULUSARAY THERMAL SPRINGS Sulusaray Tokat T. +90 356 651 68 77 168 REfiAD‹YE THERMAL SPRINGS Çermik Mah. Kapl›ca Cad. Refladiye Tokat T. +90 356 461 55 56 F. +90 356 461 55 61 JEOTHERMAL SOURCES Resource Temp.(°C) Refladiye 40 – 49 Sulusaray 32 – 44,3 Gökbel Çermi¤i – Erbaa 40,5 Sar›yaz› – Niksar 32 Ayvaz - Niksar 27 Refladiye Thermal Springs useful information Flow (l/s) 4,29 2,56 0,1 0,1 1,5 Usage Thermal S. Thermal S. Thermal S. Thermal S. Min. water
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