Malaga Sun and Nature
Transcription
Malaga Sun and Nature
Malaga TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Sun and Nature COSTA DEL SOL TOURIST BOARD Plaza del Siglo, 2 29015 MALAGA - SPAIN Telephone: (+34) 952 12 62 72 E-mail: info@visitcostadelsol.com Website: www.visitcostadelsol.com Tourist Guide 17 Available online: www.visitcostadelsol.com Spanish, English, French and German versions Costa del Sol Tourist Board index TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Málaga, Sun and Nature 0. Introduction page 5 1. Route of the Pine Groves: In the Shade of Ancient Conifers page 6 2. Route of the Spanish Firs: Seeking Relics of the Ice Age page 26 3. Route of the Cork Groves: The Cork Trail page 58 4. Route of the Interior Natural Areas: The Quirks of Indomitable Nature page 68 5. Route of the Coastal Natural Areas and Monuments: Where Land and Sea Meet page 112 6. Route of the Natural Reserves: The Wetlands Trail page 134 7. Route of the Suburban Parks: Nature at the Foot of the City Graphic design: Conmunica Mediatrader Editing: IT Department at the Tourist Board andC Conmunica Mediatrader 2 www.visitcostadelsol.com COSTA DEL SOL TOURIST BOARD Plaza del Siglo, 2 29015 Málaga Telephone: +34 952 12 62 72 E-mail: info@visitcostadelsol.com Website : www.visitcostadelsol.com page 162 3 Areas (Acantilados de Maro, Desembocadura del Guadalhorce, Desfiladero de los Gaitanes, Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja, Sierra Crestellina and El Torcal de Antequera); Natural Reserves (Laguna de Fuente de Piedra, Lagunas de Archidona, Laguna de Campillos and Lagunas de la Ratosa); Suburban Parks (Sierra de Gracia, Dehesa de Mercadillo and Pinar del Hacho); and Natural Monuments (Pinsapo de la Escalereta, Tornillo de El Torcal, Cañón de las Buitreras, Falla de la Sierra del Calamorro and Dunas de Artola or Cabopino). 0. introduction The province of Málaga, famous for its beaches and its climate, will surprise visitors with the beauty, magnitude and variety of its natural spaces. Málaga currently boasts 23 natural spaces protected by the government both at the environmental and urban level. Introduction . 4 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature . These natural spaces are separated into Natural Parks (Sierra de las Nieves; Montes de Málaga; Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama; Los Alcornocales and Sierra de Grazalema); Natural There are also 12 Special Bird Protection Areas (SBPA) - a natural space designation protected at the European level - in the province of Málaga; these are Acantilados de Maro; Desfiladero de los Gaitanes; Laguna de Fuente de Piedra; Laguna de la Ratosa; Lagunas de Campillos; Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja; Los Alcornocales; Sierra Crestellina; Sierra de Grazalema; Sierra de las Nieves; Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama; and Torcal de Antequera. Introduction These are places whose unique features and values are so different from one another that it might seem like they must be in different provinces: from the Serranía de Ronda, which features forests of Spanish fir found nowhere else in the world; el Torcal, with its fantastic karstic rock formations resembling a city of stone; Laguna de Fuente de Piedra, nesting site for the largest concentration of flamingos in Andalusia; to the reddish-coloured landscapes of the Sierra Bermeja or the impressive Acantilados de Maro (Cliffs of Maro), where the mountains merge with the Mediterranean Sea. In terms of internationally protected sites, the Costa del Sol currently features two Biosphere Reserves (Sierra de las Nieves and Sierra de Grazalema), two Ramsar Convention wetlands (Laguna de Fuente de Piedra and Lagunas de Campillos) and one Special Protected Area of Mediterranean Importance (SPAMIS) (Acantilados de Maro-Cerro Gordo). 5 TOURIST BOARD & 1. rOUTE OF THE PINE MONTES DE MÁLAGA NATURAL PARK Natural Park The park's 4,996 hectares are situated to the north of the city of Málaga and take in the majority of the left side of the Guadalmedina River basin. 96% of its total area is located within the municipal district of Málaga while the other 4% is divided between the districts of Casabermeja and Colmenar. This park owes its origins to the plantation of pine groves for hydrological/reforestation purposes carried out in the Guadalmedina River basin with an aim to prevent the floods which Málaga had been suffering for many centuries. In 1975, Montes de Málaga was included in the inventory catalogue of Natural Protected Spaces; in 1986 it was included in the province of Málaga's catalogue of Protected Spaces and . . 6 Natural Park One of these areas is conveniently located in the capital of the Costa del Sol (although it stretches over to the towns of Casabermeja and Colmenar) while the other is found in the Axarquía region, an area brimming with attractions for the visitor. Both can be explored along a route which will surely not fail to leave a lasting impression. Montes de Málaga Natural Park is located quite near the capital of the Costa del Sol and can be said to serve as a "green lung" for the city. This park - found in the central-western zone of the Baetic Range - encompasses a mid-mountain landscape of gentle topography, criss-crossed by small valleys populated with extensive pine forests. . . SIERRAS DE TEJEDA, ALMIJARA Y ALHAMA NATURAL PARK MONTES DE MÁLAGA NATURAL PARK After the flood of 1907, two building projects were implemented in the hopes of providing lasting protection for the city: the part of the river which passed through the city was channelled and the El Agujero Dam was built, in 1921. However, it was not until 1930 that the first reforestation projects were initiated with the objective of controlling the Guadalmedina River basin. These projects shaped what is now Montes de Málaga Natural Park. Montes de Málaga Montes de Málaga GROVES: IN THE SHADE OF ANCIENT CONIFERS Thanks to its geographic location, the prevailing climate and the unique characteristics of the region, the province of Málaga is dotted with immense Mediterranean woodlands. These are home both to species habitual to these latitudes as well as to various species of pine which shape the pattern of the flora here, making it one of the most valuable natural heritages of the region. Pine forests - although abundant in various parts of the region - dominate, in particular, two of the natural parks in the area: Montes de Málaga and Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama. These are protected areas which invite visitors to lose themselves beneath the dense forest canopy and discover - in the shade of vast stands of conifers - ecological treasures which have managed to survive despite the inevitable passage of time. CONVENTION BUREAU After the redistribution of land which took place with the Reconquest of the area by Ferdinand and Isabella in the 15th century, the Mediterranean forests of the region were replaced with vineyards, almond plantations and olive groves. These covered the lands that now make up the park up until the first third of the last century and - in conjunction with the Mediterranean climate regime - led to severe flooding, which devastated the city of Málaga. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 7 TOURIST BOARD & FAUNA Forests of Aleppo pine - the result of the reforestation project carried out to prevent flooding in the city of Málaga - cover the majority of the area of Montes de Málaga Natural Park. Although most of the replanting was done with Aleppo pine there are also some stands of black pine and stone pine. Montes de Málaga Natural Park is one of the few enclaves where the chameleon, an endangered species, can still be found. This area is also home to polecats, weasels, wild cats, stone martins and wild boars - which can weigh up to 180 kilos. Badgers, the common genet, rabbits, hares and foxes also inhabit the area. Other species found in the park - thanks to natural regeneration from the surrounding area - include the Holm oak, the carob tree and the cork oak. Shrubby vegetation is abundant in some areas and is generally made up of Jerusalem sage, scorpion's thorn, Mediterranean thyme, rosemary, rock rose and Spanish lavender. Among the many species of birds-of-prey which can be seen soaring majestically above the mountain peaks here are the golden eagle, the short-toed eagle, the booted eagle, kestrels, owls, little owls, goshawks, and the Eurasian eagle owl - the largest nocturnal raptor. Other species found here include the sparrowhawk, the lapwing, doves, nightjars, larks, and more. Montes de Málaga Amphibians such as the Iberian ribbed newt, toads, salamanders, and the viperine water snake are abundant here and of special interest among the fish species - which have nearly been wiped out - is the Iberian nase. CLIMATE . CAMPING AREAS Natural Park HOW TO GET THERE There are two different ways to access Montes de Málaga Natural Park. The first route starts from the city of Málaga - from the Fuente Olletas petrol station, to be exact - and follows the MA-345 . . 8 Natural Park Montes de Málaga Natural Park features five marked trails for hiking: Picapedreros, El Cerrado, Las Contadoras, Pocopan and Torrijos. Three free camping areas are located along these trails: two on El Cerrado and another on Torrijos. For more information about the hiking trails, please consult the Málaga: Sun, Routes and Excursions tourist guide at www.visitcostadelsol.com. . Temperatures in Montes de Málaga Natural Park are pleasant. The average annual temperature is around 17-18 degrees Celsius and rainfall tends to be infrequent, though torrential. Montes de Málaga It should be mentioned that in Montes de Málaga there are also some areas where olives - from which an excellent quality olive oil is produced are still grown. Natural resources obtained from the area include wood, firewood and cork. Olive and almond groves constitute the main agricultural crops in the region with sheep being the principal form of livestock raised here. CONVENTION BUREAU Goods; however, it did not receive the classification of Natural Park until 1989, when the Parliament of Andalusia passed the Natural Protected Spaces Act. FLORA Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 9 TOURIST BOARD & characterise a large part of this natural park. The highway also passes many typical mountain inns where you can enjoy traditional cured meats and roscas (ring-shaped stuffed breads) accompanied by the regional wine. The famous plato de los montes - a combination of potatoes or breadcrumbs, eggs and chorizo - is also a good choice. The Verdiales (a typical flamenco music style) festivals are usually celebrated in these inns. FROM THE INNS TO LAS CONTADORAS NATURE CENTRE The first route which we recommend leaves directly from the city of Málaga in the direction of Colmenar on the C-345, commonly called the "Carretera de los Montes" (Mountain Highway) or the "Cuesta de la Reina" (Queen's Hill). The first section has numerous curves and steep gradients so it is recommendable to drive slowly Continuing along this road, you will come upon the first plantations of Aleppo pine, which Las Contadoras Nature Centre is situated in the very heart of the Natural Park, at 800 metres elevation. It occupies a building which dates back to the year 1780. The building was rehabilitated, renovated and expanded by the Autonomous Government of Andalusia in 1989. The goal of the centre is to stimulate environmental education in the district and in the province of Málaga: meetings, seminars and awareness days are held here for adults, while camping trips and marches are organized for the youth. Montes de Málaga Continuing past the El Detalle inn, you will come to La Fuente de la Reina (the Queen's Fountain), 18 kilometres from the capital of Málaga and 925 metres above sea level. This fountain is located at the foot of the hill after which it is named - a peak which reaches 1,031 metres of elevation. La Fuente de la Reina was named after Isabella the Catholic as legend holds that she drank from its waters just after conquering the city. Montes de Málaga Natural Park Natural Park . Here you will encounter the entrance to a dirt road on the left-hand side which leads to Las Contadoras Nature Centre. Right at the entrance, there is a sign which indicates the rules for use of this area; it should be read carefully and the rules should be obeyed for the good of the natural park. . . The road from La Fuente de la Reina to Las Contadoras is about five kilometres long. Almond and olive trees can be seen along the first section, but these are later replaced by a dense pine grove on the left-hand side and a small Holm Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com . 10 and carefully - this will also permit a full appreciation of the many panoramic views to be had along the way. You will pass by the inns of Los Tres Cincos, Nueva, Los Montes and El Boticario (next to the winepress house, or lagar, located in the very centre of the park), as well as that of El Mirador, which affords a view of the entire Bay of Málaga. Once past this inn, you will again find yourself on a stretch of road with many sharp curves known as "caracolillos", which eventually lead you to Cerro Matanza (Matanza Hill), at 774 metres above sea level. oak forest on the right. The rest of the way, you will find yourself amongst conifers, cypresses, Portuguese oaks and carob trees as well as - in lesser measure - chestnut trees, elms, willows, ash, and others. A dense pine grove covers the area near the Nature Centre and leads you the first objective: Las Contadoras. CONVENTION BUREAU regional highway, also known as the "Carretera de los Montes" (Mountain Highway). This road, which leaves from the north of the city, runs towards Colmenar and also serves as a junction for the network of pathways and forest roads that traverse and access the park. The second way to get to the park is on the N-331 from Málaga to Casabermeja. Málaga, Sun and Nature 11 TOURIST BOARD & were added to the building and an olive oil mill, a press, and a bodega were installed. Wine production, the olive oil mill, and the traditional ovens used to make pan cateto (peasants' bread) are the three basic elements of this winepress house. After visiting the winepress house, you can follow the path down to the recreational areas located along the edge of the Chapera ravine and enjoy the natural beauty of Montes de Málaga Natural Park. FROM THE LAGAR DE TORRIJOS TO COLMENAR AND CASABERMEJA Afterwards, you can return to highway C-345 and set out for a visit to two beautiful villages of the province of Málaga: Colmenar and Casabermeja. Montes de Málaga nooks of this building, so full of the magic and history of Málaga. In fact, the spindle-beam found here was the inspiration for the park's logo. Natural Park Natural Park . The Lagar de Torrijos is an example of the typical winepress houses found in the Montes de Málaga region: these were buildings dedicated to winemaking. The building is currently owned by the Ministry of the Environment of the Autonomous Government of Andalusia and they were responsible for its rehabilitation and conversion. During the first half of the 19th century - up until the arrival of the phylloxera epidemic which wiped out the vineyards - this was the press-house where the renowned mountain wine was extracted. When the cultivation of grapes was replaced with that of olives, two wings . Montes de Málaga One of the principal attractions in Montes de Málaga Natural Park is the Lagar de Torrijos (Torrijos Winepress House), which today has been converted into a museum dedicated to ethnology and enology. Continuing along highway C-345 from Fuente de la Reina towards Colmenar, you will traverse the mountain pass of Puerto del León at 960 metres above sea level; then you should take the turn-off to the left which indicates the way to the Lagar de Torrijos - about 1.7 kilometres away. This tour begins in the Lagar de Torrijos and you shouldn't leave before exploring all the hidden . . 12 CONVENTION BUREAU Once you have finished your visit here - and after a much-deserved rest - you can set off for the El Cerrado recreational area, located about three kilometres away from Las Contadoras. Here, you can admire the amazing scenery of Montes de Málaga and rest after your journey in the camping area or in the Hotel Humaina. The scenery found along the way consists primarily of Aleppo pine and Holm oak forests. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 13 TOURIST BOARD & Montes de Málaga Montes de Málaga CONVENTION BUREAU MONTES DE MÁLAGA NATURAL PARK . . Beginning of route Halfway point End of route Natural Park Suggested route 2 . . 14 Natural Park Suggested route 1 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 15 TOURIST BOARD & Moorish past which has left its mark not only on the architecture found there but also on some local traditions, still kept alive to a certain extent. In the western-most part of the province of Málaga, the imposing cluster of mountains made up of the Sierras de Tejeda y Almijara (Tejeda and Almijara Ranges) rises. This is a unique area which was designated as a Natural Park in 1999 - a classification which implies strict environmental protection and conservation of the area, characterised not only by its great scenic beauty but also by the diversity of its fauna and by its unusual flora. It would seem that the name Tejeda refers to the abundance of tejos - a woodland plant - which covered a large part of the region in years goneby, while the name Almijara is certainly a derivation of the Arab word almijar, which could be translated as "drain", a reference to the speed with which rain-water - not absorbed by the soil drained off into the sea. However, this Arab word might also refer to the many almijares (areas set Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama aside for the sun-drying of grapes, now called paseros) found in the Axarquía region, even today. The white and grey tones of these mountains, as well as their almost uninterrupted succession of steep crests and deep gullies - not to mention their proximity to the sea - are all characteristics . . . 16 Natural Park Natural Park result, these craggy mountains have always been the source of legends telling of rebellions, banditry or smuggling - depending on the era. Furthermore, the ruggedness of the terrain and the difficulty presented by its complex topography for the cultivation of any sort of crop has meant that the entire area of the park has been left nearly untouched by human activity. This gives visitors the sensation that they are entering an area which has been newly discovered. . Due to its geological make-up - it is a complex amalgam of faults and folds - Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama Natural Park is perhaps the natural area with the greatest scenic diversity in the province of Málaga. In this respect, it is worth mentioning that the slopes of this mountain range plunge into the Mediterranean Sea in the district of Nerja and that its tallest peak, La Maroma, exceeds 2,000 metres of elevation. These drastic elevation changes occur over a distance of only 17 kilometres, a fact which explains the existence The Tejeda and Almijara Ranges have very few natural passes to permit the movement of people and goods and even the villages closest to this now-protected area have always lived somewhat distanced from these spectacular peaks. As a Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama Encompassing 40,662 hectares of protected area, this park is divided almost equally between the provinces of Málaga and Granada and, furthermore, serves as the border between the two provinces. Eight municipalities are located in the part of the park belonging to Málaga (Alcaucín, Canillas de Albaida, Canillas de Aceituno, Cómpeta, Frigiliana, Nerja, Salares and Sedella); all of these are found in the Axarquía region. Meanwhile, the Granadine zone includes the municipalities of Alhama de Granada, Arenas del Rey, Jayena and Otívar. The aforementioned towns pertaining to Málaga all share a common of the precipitous gullies and near-vertical slopes found here. Such geographical features are carved out by watercourses, generally short, but of extraordinary beauty, as is the case of the Chillar and Higuerón Rivers, in the province of Málaga, and the Verde River in Otívar, on the Granada side. CONVENTION BUREAU SIERRAS DE TEJEDA, ALMIJARA Y ALHAMA NATURAL PARK Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 17 TOURIST BOARD & Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama . FAUNA Tejeda y Almijara Natural Park is also of great zoological interest thanks to the wide variety of species which inhabit the area - even if the diversity of animal species does not match the enormous diversity of the plant-life here. Amphibians (the painted frog, salamanders, the Iberian ribbed newt, etc.) and reptiles (the chameleon, the Spanish terrapin, the red-tailed spiny-footed lizard, the horseshoe whipsnake, the water snake, etc.) have a notable presence in the area; however, it is the bird-life which draws the most attention here for its great variety of colour and behaviour. . . Natural Park The great diversity of vegetation in Tejeda y Almijara Natural Park is certainly one of its foremost attractions. This diversity results from The climatic conditions of Tejeda y Almijara Natural Park are determined as much by its geographical situation as by the height of the two mountain ranges. These necessarily influence the flora and, to a lesser extent, the fauna in the area. The pluviometric studies carried out in the area show that precipitation in the region of the park Natural Park FLORA The intermediate layers are forested by carob trees, Portuguese oaks, Holm oaks, wild olives, cork oaks, juniper and an important colony of Mediterranean black pine groves. It is impossible to mention all of even the most important species which make up the flora of the park since, of the approximately 2,800 plant species classified in the province of Málaga, more than half are present in these mountains. CLIMATE . The age of the Tejeda and Almijara Ranges varies between 500 million years, in some zones composed of quartzites and schists, and 25 million years, in areas of younger rock. Over the course of time, extraordinarily interesting geological features have come about such as the Cueva de Nerja (Nerja Cave), the most visited natural monument in Spain, as well as other caverns which are less spectacular but equally worthy of mention; among these are Cueva de la Fájara (La Fájara Cave) in Canillas de Aceituno and Sima de la Maroma (La Maroma Abyss). the different elevation zones of the mountain range and the various climatic layers existing along the elevational gradient, which spans from zero to 2,000 metres. At least four distinct bioclimatic zones can be distinguished and some specialists have differentiated five. Each zone has its own unique characteristics: from the lowest areas, where large subtropical fruit plantations - which have replaced sugar cane cultivations in recent years - can be found alongside the European fan palm, the carob tree and the Aleppo pine - to name just a few of the species - up to the shrubland zone, which occurs above the tree-line at elevations over 1,800 metres. Squirrels, wild boars and deer also inhabit this natural park while the ibex is certainly the most prominent animal species here and its population has grown considerably since the area was declared a National Hunting Reserve in the early 1970s. 18 Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama reminiscent of the mountain ranges found in the north of Spain, especially the Picos de Europa. This superficial similarity disappears, however, when both regions are examined more closely and each area's flora and fauna can be better appreciated. CONVENTION BUREAU The eagles are particularly remarkable and can easily be observed in full flight here. The golden eagle and the Bonelli's eagle are typical birds of prey found in the area. The goshawk, sparrowhawk and the peregrine falcon are other species which are often seen in the park. In contrast, the mammal species here are quite difficult to observe due to the fact that they tend to be active only at night, though polecats, weasels, and badgers are indeed abundant in the area. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 19 TOURIST BOARD & There are no camping areas in the part of the park found in the province of Málaga, although it does feature recreational facilities in Cortijo del Alcázar, in Alcaucín; La Llanada de Turvilla River "La Fábrica de la Luz" (The Factory of Light), in Natural Park From the north of the province of Málaga, visitors must first enter the city on the A-45 (N-331). At Casabermeja there is a turn-off towards Vélez Málaga which goes past the Embalse de la Viñuela (La Viñuela Reservoir). From here, you can continue on to Alcaucín and the rest of the To access the park from the city of Granada you must take the N-323 towards Motril. Upon reaching the Suspiro del Moro (Sigh of the Moor) mountain pass, you must take the A-7106 towards Otívar and Almuñécar. This road is known as the "Carretera de la Cabra Montés" (Ibex Highway). 25 kilometres after this turn-off, you should continue on towards Jayena, Fornes, Arenas del Rey and, lastly, Alhama de Granada. In this town, the road connects with Highway A335 which, in turn, joins the MA-125. This road leads to Canillas de Aceituno and to the other towns belonging to Málaga, which adjoin the park. . . 20 Natural Park For more information about these trails, please consult the Málaga: Sun, Routes and Excursions tourist guide at www.visitcostadelsol.com. From Málaga and the Costa del Sol you must take the Mediterranean Motorway - A-7 (N-340) (E-15) - in the direction of Motril-Almería, until reaching Vélez Málaga. The municipalities of Alcaucín, Canillas de Aceituno, Sedella and Salares are easily reached by taking highway A335 from Vélez Málaga. To get to Cómpeta or Canillas de Albaida it is better to take the exit from the Mediterranean Motorway towards Algarrobo via the A-6203, which connects to the aforementioned villages. These can also be reached from Salares, in which case you must first pass through Árchez. villages located within Tejeda y Almijara Natural Park. The towns of Frigiliana and Nerja are poorly connected by the interior routes with the rest of the villages mentioned; in order to reach them you should continue along the Mediterranean Motorway towards Motril-Almería. . del Cielo (Cielo Peak Climb) Trail; 10. Casa de la Nieve Trail (Canillas de Aceituno-La Maroma); 11. Cañon de Río Verde (Verde River Canyon) Trail; 12. Puente Romano (Roman Bridge) Trail (Salares-Salares). . Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama HOW TO GET THERE CAMPING AREAS Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama The months of highest rainfall tend to be December, January and March while the driest month is July. With respect to temperature, three zones can be distinguished: the zone of maritime influence, which includes the districts of Nerja, Frigiliana and Cómpeta and where the temperature sinks to a minimum of four degrees and reaches a maximum of 30. The second zone corresponds to the mountain range itself; here temperatures of between zero and 22 degrees are recorded. The third zone is limited to the province of Granada - and more specifically to the Tierras de Alhama - where the thermometer commonly registers -3 degrees in winter and 40 degrees in summer. Canillas de Albaida; and La Fuente del Esparto (the Esparto Fountain) and El Pinarillo, in Nerja. It is also worth mentioning that there are twelve marked trails in the park: 1. Alcázar-La Maroma Trail; 2. El Robledal-La Maroma Trail; 3. Fábrica de la Luz-Puerto de Cómpeta Trail; 4. Raspón de los Moriscos Trail; 5. Casa de la Mina-Pradillos Trail; 6. Subida al Pico de Lopera (Lopera Peak Climb) Trail; 7. Frigiliana-Fuente del Esparto Trail; 8. Río Verde (Verde River) Trail; 9. Subida al Pico CONVENTION BUREAU varies from 400 mm per year - registered in Nerja, to 650 mm in Alcaucín, to 1,000 mm per year on the mountain peaks. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 21 TOURIST BOARD & VILLAGES WITH Five of the eight districts of Málaga which adjoin Tejeda y Almijara Natural Park (Canillas de Aceituno, Sedella, Salares, Canillas de Albaida and Cómpeta) are connected by a single highway - although the name of this highway changes along different sections: MA-125, MA-126, MA127, MA-116. This allows the visitor to make a trip through villages which are - thanks to their elevation - real natural viewpoints affording spectacular panoramic vistas of the Axarquía region. There is, however, one historical event which unifies the past development of these communities to an even greater extent (if possible): the Moorish Rebellion of the 16th century and the subsequent expulsion of the Moors from the region. These lands would later be repopulated by Old Christians who came to the region from elsewhere. The Moorish Rebellion in this area was quashed by the Whatever the case, the main allure of the villages situated on the slopes of the Tejeda and Almijara Ranges is - as previously mentioned - the scenery, which can change radically over a few kilometres and is capable of surprising the visitor at every turn. The scenery is complimented by the very structure of the towns themselves, offering a stark contrast between the brilliant whitewashed façades of the houses, the intense verdure of the mountain forests, and the changing shades of ochre of the cultivated lands. Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama Although there are natural differences between the various towns, they all share - for the most Christians in a harsh manner meant to set an example. This did not, however, prevent the villages from conserving their original Moorish layout, some of their customs, and several Mudéjar churches considered to be real architectural gems and a must-see for visitors to the region. CONVENTION BUREAU ROUTES THROUGH MOORISH FLAVOUR part - the same historical background. Most of these towns show evidence of prehistoric human settlements, as well as of the presence of the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians and the Romans. However, the population centres as we know them today were founded during the time of Moorish rule. Natural Park Natural Park . . . . 22 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 23 TOURIST BOARD & . Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama . Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama Beginning of route CONVENTION BUREAU SIERRAS DE TEJEDA, ALMIJARA Y ALHAMA NATURAL PARK Halfway point End of route Natural Park Natural Park Suggested route . . 24 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 25 TOURIST BOARD & FIRS: SEEKING RELICS OF THE ICE AGE PINSAPO DE LA ESCALERETA (LA ESCALERETA SPANISH FIR) NATURAL MONUMENT Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park constitutes one of Andalusia's most valuable ecological strongholds as it is home to the Spanish fir - the park's greatest treasure and a protected species in danger of extinction. The Spanish fir occupies just over 3,000 hectares in this park. Sierra de las Nieves . Natural Park Located in the heart of the Serranía de Ronda natural region, Sierra de las Nieves is surrounded by exceptional natural spaces including the The group of mountain ranges which constitute this natural park are of complex geological makeup. Materials of sedimentary origin formed from large blocks of calcareous rock and dolomite are the most significant component, making up the main part of the mountain range. These are also known as "white ranges" due to the colour of the calcareous rock. Of secondary significance are the "grey ranges"; these are composed largely of Natural Park SIERRA DE LAS NIEVES NATURAL PARK This park - declared a natural zone in 1989 and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1995 - covers a total of 20,163 hectares divided among the districts of El Burgo, Istán, Monda, Parauta, Ronda, Tolox and Yunquera. The mountainous terrain here is broken by deep gullies and spectacular clefts, like that of the Caína, which plunges more than 100 metres. It contains the highest peak in the province of Málaga, El Torecilla, at 1,919 metres; and, due to the calcareous nature of the ground, many abysses have formed here such as the Sima Gesm (Gesm Abyss), the third deepest in the world at 1,100 metres and the deepest in Andalusia. The park is located in an area of very rugged terrain featuring deep gullies, impressive clefts, and numerous mountain passes. This is a midmountain zone with elevations which vary between 200 metres above sea level, at the confluence of the Bornoque gully with the Verde River, and 1,919 metres, at the summit of Torrecilla Peak. Among the highest peaks found here are the Peñón de Ronda (Ronda Rock) (1,289 metres), Blanquilla (1,427), La Hidalga (1,504), Carramolo del Queso (1,321), Nieves (1,759), Peñón de los Enamorados (Los Enamorados Rock) (1,747), Aranda (1,051), Cerro del Picacho (Picacho Hill) (1,427) and Pico del Jarro (El Jarro Peak) (1,309). . SIERRA BERMEJA NATURAL AREA natural parks of Los Alcornoques and Sierra de Grazalema, to the west; Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja Natural Area, to the south; and Desfiladero de los Gaitanes (Gaitanes Ravine), to the east. . . 26 Sierra de las Nieves SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA NATURAL PARK A visit to the Pinsapo de La Escalereta (La Escalereta Spanish Fir) Natural Monument might well make for the crowning moment on an itinerary which is sure to rouse all the visitor's senses in the enjoyment of this unparalleled trail. SIERRA DE LAS NIEVES NATURAL PARK Sierra de las Nieves is considered to be one of the areas of greatest scenic beauty in the south of Spain. It is made up of several different mountain ranges including the Serranía de Ronda, Sierra Blanquilla, Sierra de la Hidalga, Sierra de Tolox, Sierra de Yunquera, Sierra Real, Sierra de Canucha, Sierra de las Nieves, Sierra del Pinar, Sierra Bermeja and Sierra Blanca. CONVENTION BUREAU 2. rOUTE OF THE SPANISH A relic of the coniferous forests of the Tertiary Period, the Spanish fir has the honour of being one of the most prized species among Málaga's flora. And with good reason: the province is home to significant stands of this, the most unique fir species in the world - a tree which managed to survive the glacial era and which, in Andalusia, can only be found in very specific geographical enclaves. Indeed, it is here that the largest grove of Spanish fir on the planet can be found along with one of the oldest living specimens known. This represents a great attraction for all nature-lovers, who must visit Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park and Grazalema Natural Park - or make a trip to the Sierra Bermeja Natural Area - in order to find the most characteristic stands of these mute witnesses to history. peridotite. Finally, the lands consisting of clayey materials are generally covered with agricultural crops. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 27 TOURIST BOARD & important ones being the Sima Honda (Deep Abyss), with a depth of 136 metres, and the Sima Gesm (Gesm Abyss), with a 1,101 metre Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park also represents one of the most important examples of Andalusian karst geology and the majority of this natural zone is composed of carbonated rock (limes, dolomites, and marbles) of both exokarstic (superficial) and endokarstic (underground) nature. Sierra de las Nieves FLORA The botanical highlight of Sierra de las Nieves is the Spanish fir - a species which originated during the glacial period and for which the park constitutes the principal area of distribution in the world. This species, which is only found in the southern part of the Iberian Peninsula and in northern Morocco, covers a little over 3,000 hectares of the park. The tree is dark green in colour, conical in shape, and reaches a height of 20 to 25 metres. Its bark is whitish and it features monoic flowers and short, scattered, rather sharp leaves which it maintains over many years. Natural Park Natural Park In addition, the Portuguese oak is found growing in extremely sparse stands on the Quejigales plateau in Sierra de las Nieves and is classified . . Endokarstic landforms here include abysses and caves. Abysses (cavities of predominately vertical orientation) are generally found in the higher elevation zones. Presently about a hundred of these are known in the park with the most elevational drop. Caves (cavities oriented horizontally) are normally encountered in the intermediate and lower elevation zones. Of special interest are the Cueva de la Tinaja (La Tinaja Cave), in Tolox, and the Cueva de Zarzalones (Zarzalones Cave), in Yunquera. Small groves of carob and chestnut trees also exist here and the fruits of the latter species are harvested for human consumption by the villagers of Tolox and Parauta. The Castaño Santo de Istán (Santo de Istán Chestnut Tree) should not be missed; it is a centuries-old specimen located in a wood in the area known as El Hoyo. Sierra de las Nieves Exokarst is principally represented here by dolines (sinkholes) and by naked limestone pavements (protruding rocky landforms of clints and fissures which are difficult to traverse). The principal hydrological function of these is to trap rain and run-off water and allow it to seep into the sub-surface. The springs found in the park are the discharge points of these subterranean karstic aquifers and include the source of the Verde River, the source of the Grande River, and the Zarzalones spring. and the Cañada de la Encina (La Encina Livestock Trail); that of Yunquera, between the Cañada del Cañuelo (El Cañuelo Livestock Trail) and the slopes of El Picacho; and that found on the north slope of the Alcojona Range. Here, the Pinsapo de la Escalereta (La Escalereta Spanish Fir) - designated as a Natural Monument - can be found. Other important conifer species in the area include the maritime or black pine, the Aleppo pine and the Scots pine. Three large Spanish fir groves survive in the park: that of the Sierra de las Nieves, between Quejigar . . 28 CONVENTION BUREAU There are many more geographical features in the park which are well worth mentioning including the Garganta del Río Verde (Verde River Gorge), Lifa Valley, Tajo de la Caína (Caína Cleft) and the Sima Alcojona (Alcojona Abyss). Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 29 TOURIST BOARD & Rupicolous and climbing species also abound in the area. These establish themselves on rocky substrates, common in the park thanks to its numerous gorges and rock faces. Many herbaceous species grow here as well including the mountain rose, orchids, lilies and the narcissus. Foxes can commonly be seen prowling across the wide open spaces and large trout can be observed swirling through the waters of the Verde River, always on the alert for otters. HOW TO GET THERE Due to the size of the park, there are several ways to arrive by road. Some of the access routes to this natural space of the Serranía de Ronda are described below: Highway C-339 (Ronda-San Pedro de Alcántara): after passing the intersection to Igualeja on the right, you will arrive at the park intersection on the left-hand side, 12.5 kilometres from Ronda. CLIMATE The climate of Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park could be classified as subtropical Mediterranean in the lowest zones (in the south and east), maritime Mediterranean in the area of RondaParauta (west) and continental Mediterranean in the rest of the park. CAMPING AREAS Natural Park Highway C-344 (Ronda-Málaga, via El Burgo): after passing El Burgo, and 34 kilometres from Ronda, is the village of Yunquera, another of the principal gateways to the park. Continuing along the same regional highway (C344) towards Málaga - and after passing the turnoff towards Alozaina on the left - you will come to the Tolox intersection at Kilometre 48.5, four kilometres away from the village. Highway N-340 (Cádiz-Málaga): at Kilometre 184 in Marbella you must turn to the left at the Istán intersection. Istán is located 16 kilometres away. Highway C-337 (Coín-Marbella): Nine kilometres from Coín you will come to the village of Monda. This is one of the most picturesque villages in the park. About two kilometres away in the direction . . 30 Natural Park Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park features a lodge called Cerro de Hijar in the district of Tolox and a recreational area in Los Quejigares, Ronda. Among the marked paths found in the park are the Tolox-La Regia Trail (Tolox); the Conejeras-Fuenfría Trail (Parauta); the Quejigales-Torrecilla Trail (Ronda-Tolox); the Highway C-344 (Ronda-Málaga, via El Burgo): either from the town of El Burgo itself along the road running parallel to the river, or by following the highway about three kilometres in the direction of Yunquera and taking the road which exits to the right. . Mean annual temperatures vary between 10.7 and 17.3 degrees Celsius and average annual precipitation exceeds 800 mm/year - this figure increases with elevation and relief exposure. . The most emblematic and characteristic animal of Sierra de las Nieves is the ibex. It is - together with the Spanish fir - the symbol of the park and is portrayed both in the park's logo as well as in that of the Biosphere Reserve. In terms of bird-life, there are scarcely any breeding pairs of the Egyptian vulture remaining, although greater numbers of goshawks, sparrow hawks, kestrels, peregrine falcons and griffon vultures can now be observed in the area. Partridges, rabbits, the Egyptian mongoose and small rodents like rats and moles all nest in the park. Reptiles such as snakes, vipers, and lizards, as well as frogs and other amphibians make their home in the park as well. Yunquera-Los Sauces Trail (Yunquera); the La Fuensanta-Río Turón Trail; and the Monda-Istán Trail. Sierra de las Nieves Sierra de las Nieves FAUNA With respect to the wildlife inhabiting the park, the Environmental Agency has classified as many as 195 vertebrate species including the golden eagle, the otter, the mouflon and the Spanish ibex. The region makes an ideal refuge for the ibex which is considered to be the "king" of these lands. Roe deer are also present here in lesser measure and can be observed at dusk descending to drink water. CONVENTION BUREAU as an endangered species. Other trees present in the area include Holm oaks, cork oaks, wild olives, laurustinus, madrones, fig trees, poplars, cottonwoods, elms, crack willows and tamarisks. Important shrub species here include Spanish juniper, common juniper, mastic, terebinth, Kermes oak, blackthorn and hawthorn, as well as Spanish broom, the European fan palm, wild rose, and various types of heather. Other shrubby species present include scorpion's thorn, hedgehog broom, rock rose, reeds, rushes, oleander, rosemary, thyme and chamomile. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 31 TOURIST BOARD & however, you must turn off after a few kilometres and continue along the MA-413. THROUGH THE VILLAGES SERRANÍA DE RONDA For the second itinerary, you should also leave from Ronda and follow the A-376 until reaching Parauta. If you want to visit Istán, however, it is necessary to take the A-376 until reaching Highway N-340 (Cádiz-Málaga). After reaching Marbella at Kilometre 184, you must turn at the intersection towards Istán, which is located 16 kilometres away. OF THE To see all of the villages found in Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park, the tour should be divided into two different itineraries: the first would start from Ronda and pass through the villages of El Burgo, Yunquera, Tolox and Monda; the second route would also begin in Ronda and include the communities of Parauta and Istán. CONVENTION BUREAU of Marbella, a road exits to the right and leads into the park. Sierra de las Nieves Sierra de las Nieves The town of Ronda is connected with El Burgo, Yunquera and Tolox via Highway A-366. To get to Monda, you would also start out on the A-366; Natural Park Natural Park . . . . 32 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 33 TOURIST BOARD & Beginning of route . . Sierra de las Nieves Sierra de las Nieves CONVENTION BUREAU SIERRA DE LAS NIEVES NATURAL PARK Halfway point Suggested route 1 Suggested route 2 . . 34 Natural Park Natural Park End of route Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 35 TOURIST BOARD & Situated between the provinces of Málaga and Cádiz, in the western-most part of the Iberian Cordillera, Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park consists of 51,695 hectares of protected area. It was declared a Biosphere Reserve by the UNESCO in 1977. A few years later (in 1984) it became a National Park and environmental protection measures in the region are strictly enforced. This park includes 13 districts: five in the province of Málaga (Benaoján, Montejaque, Cortes de la Frontera, Jimera de Líbar and Ronda) and the remaining eight in the province of Cádiz (Grazalema, Zahara de la Sierra, Villaluenga del Rosario, Benaocaz, Ubrique, El Bosque, Prado del Rey and El Gastor). Sierra de Grazalema The unique features of the Cueva de la Pileta (La Pileta Cave) - declared a National Monument of Cave Art in 1924 - and the Cueva de HundideroEl Gato (Hundidero-El Gato Cave) - of enormous archaeological importance - make them quite remarkable. Both are found in the district of Benaoján, in Málaga. In the region of Zafalgar, two of the park's most impressive gorges can be found: the Garganta Verde (Verde Gorge) - which is 400 metres deep - and the Garganta Seca (Dry Gorge). . . Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park stretches from elevations as low as 300 metres up to 1,600 metres. The elevational extremes are found in El Bosque, a town situated 289 metres above sea level, and at El Torreón which, at 1,654 metres, is the highest point in the park. This elevational gradient occurs over a distance of scarcely ten kilometres, evidence of the great topographical diversity of the area. Sierra de Grazalema The total protected area of the park - 14,900 hectares spread across the Sierra de Líbar and the Guadiaro Valley - is found in the province of Málaga. Among the districts belonging to the province of Málaga, that of Montejaque contains the greatest area of protected land, with 4,556 hectares, closely followed by Cortes de la Frontera, with 4,531 hectares. Ronda has 2,919 hectares of the protected area; Benaoján, 2,152 CONVENTION BUREAU SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA NATURAL PARK hectares, and Jimera de Líbar, 742 hectares. The topography of the region tends to be quite rugged and features a great diversity of geomorphological formations including clefts, gorges, canyons, poljes (depressions of karstic origin brought about by a process of dissolution) and caves - not to mention the lush, green valleys and extensive stretches of forest which bring to mind landscapes found at other latitudes. And, indeed, this region is among those with the highest rainfall indices in Spain, with more than 2,000 litres per square metre recorded here annually. Natural Park Natural Park Man's presence in this region dates back to very remote times but, as is so often the case in Andalusia, historical data is first available from the Moorish era. It is known that this region served as the border between Christian and Muslim lands in the 13th and 14th Centuries and . . 36 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 37 TOURIST BOARD & Sierra de Grazalema . In Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, approximately 1,300 higher plant species have been classified - this is quite a remarkable figure and is evidence of the great botanical diversity in the region. Here, the Mediterranean Holm oak is the most wide-spread tree species both in the lowlands as well as on the peaks. The carob tree generally occurs together with the Holm oak. Also abundant are groves of Portuguese oak, wild olive and cork oak. However, the most distinguished species found here is certainly the Spanish fir which occurs exclusively in Sierra de las Nieves, Sierra Bermeja, and in the Sierra del . Natural Park During the Spanish War of Independence, this region was the scene of many confrontations between the French troops and the inhabitants of the area. A few years afterwards, banditry became common in these mountain ranges, . . Natural Park FLORA Sierra de Grazalema Remains found in the region indicate that the first human settlements arose here during the Palaeolithic Era. The founding of the first village in the area - an occurrence which took place much later - is attributed to the Celts, who established a settlement which they called Alexia. It was under Roman rule that Lacilbula (present day Grazalema) became a stable population centre, although the Moors were the ones who would leave a more lasting impression on the region with the founding of nearly all the villages located within Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park today. Despite the Christian conquest of these lands, many Moorish customs have endured over the centuries, even if many have been altered to some extent. CONVENTION BUREAU that some of its valleys were the scene of confrontations. This explains the fact that present-day human population centres are located in strategic enclaves - almost always on top of high hills or steep slopes - which is where the first villages were founded. Over time, these villages have become almost like another natural element of the landscape. probably the result of the proximity of the region to the Serranía de Ronda. Despite the fact that the peoples who have inhabited this region since very early times have not ceased to exploit its natural resources, the environmental equilibrium here has never been at risk. In fact, the forests of the region - one of the main resources in the area along with livestock have not suffered any deterioration to speak of. The area is currently experiencing an increase in tourism - at a controlled pace, for the time being which is helping to greatly bolster the local economy. 38 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 39 TOURIST BOARD & As is generally the case in lands with a high degree of elevational variation, the plant species in this park occur where the climate - a function of the elevation - is most favourable for them. Thus, mallow, pipe vine, scorpion's thorn, thistle and poppies give way to peony, thyme and Spanish juniper at higher elevations, while cottonwoods, willows and elms thrive alongside riverbeds and streams. 377 in Manilva. This highway passes through Gaucín, Algatocín, Benalauría, Benadalid, and Atajate before finally reaching Ronda. CONVENTION BUREAU Pinar of this natural park. Sierra del Pinar conserves a Spanish fir grove covering about 400 hectares in an area which also features Portuguese oaks and Holm oaks. Of interest in the part of the park pertaining to Málaga are the cork oak forests of Bogas Bajas and the Holm oak groves of Sierra Blanquilla and Palo. From Ronda, the "Ciudad del Tajo" (City of the Tagus), you should take the A-376 towards Algodonales. About fifteen kilometres from Ronda, you must turn off on the A-505; this leads first to Montejaque and from there on to Benaoján, on the A-506. Ten kilometres further on, this highway passes through Jimera de Líbar and, after driving seven kilometres further, you will come to the village of Cortes de la Frontera. average annual rainfall recorded in the region exceeds 2,000 litres per square metre, as mentioned above. This places it at the forefront of Andalusia and of the entire Iberian Peninsula in terms of the pluviometric index. The climatic conditions of Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park correspond to those of the maritime Mediterranean zone. This means that the average temperature does not usually fall below nine degrees in winter or exceed 26 degrees in summer. With respect to precipitation levels, the . It is advisable to use the city of Ronda as the starting point for any trips into the interior of this mountainous zone, both because of its proximity to the area and because it is the most wellconnected of all the towns surrounding the park. From Málaga or from the Eastern Costa del Sol, the most direct route is Highway A-357, which leaves from the city of Málaga in the direction of Campillos. After passing Cártama and Ardales, you must take the turn-off towards the A-367 about five kilometres past Ardales. After driving for 40 kilometres along this highway, you will come to Cuevas del Becerro, a mere 18 kilometres from Ronda. From the Western Costa del Sol, it is necessary to take AP-7 (N-340) (E-15) until you reach San Pedro de Alcántara; here, the A-376 begins, which leads directly to Ronda. It is also possible from the Western Costa del Sol - to take the A- Natural Park . . Natural Park CLIMATE HOW TO GET THERE . The most characteristic of the mammal species in the park is the ibex, while the griffon vulture is the most representative bird. Indeed, the colony of griffon vultures in the area is considered to be one of the most important in Europe. These species share the park with foxes, the common otter, roe deer and red deer and it is not uncommon to encounter some of these animals when visiting the park. Other notable bird species found here include the golden eagle, the Bonelli's eagle, the osprey, the Eurasian eagle owl, the black kite, the Egyptian vulture and the peregrine falcon. Sierra de Grazalema Sierra de Grazalema FAUNA 40 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 41 TOURIST BOARD & Sierra de Grazalema Sierra de Grazalema CONVENTION BUREAU SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA NATURAL PARK . . Beginning of route Halfway point Suggested route . . 42 Natural Park Natural Park End of route Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 43 TOURIST BOARD & Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja Natural Area, which includes a total of 1,236 hectares of protected land, is situated at the junction of the municipal districts of Estepona, Genalguacil and Casares, though the majority of its Spanish fir forest is found in Genalguacil. The natural area is part of the Sierra Bermeja where a mountain range is found in the heart of the Genal Valley. It separates the Serranía de Ronda from the Mediterranean coast along a 35-kilometre stretch. The mountain range has an average height of 1,000 metres and is located between To take a trip through Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja is to enter a marvellous landscape of Spanish fir forests juxtaposed against the reddish-coloured rock which gives the mountain range its name and make it stand out from among the white calcareous rock of the Sierra de las Nieves and the Sierra Blanca, in Marbella. It should be mentioned that the ground here constitutes the most extensive area of peridotite rock in the world and it supports the only stand of Spanish fir growing on peridotites. Big game hunting and fishing are traditional practices here and they - along with tourism, which has undergone a spectacular increase in recent years - are a considerable source of income for the area. Reales de Sierra Bermeja This natural area features a number of recreational facilities near the summit of Los Reales. There is a mountain shelter - currently operated as a bar/restaurant - as well as a picnic area with barbecues and tables. Two viewpoints allow visitors to enjoy a panoramic vista of the mountains. Reales de Sierra Bermeja FLORA Natural Area Natural Area . Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja is a natural area with significant forest cover and which is home to numerous endemic species with highlights being the stands of Spanish fir and the cork oak groves. These exist alongside forests of black pine, Portuguese oak and other species. . . The Spanish fir was first described for the scientific world by the Swiss scientist E. Boissier in 1837 on the Los Reales massif. He was guided by the pharmacist Félix Haenseler, of Málaga, who had also made a great discovery: that of Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com . 44 CONVENTION BUREAU REALES DE SIERRA BERMEJA NATURAL AREA the Sierra de las Nieves and Pico de Los Reales (Los Reales Peak). Málaga, Sun and Nature 45 TOURIST BOARD & More than 250 species live together in this natural area. Important shrub species include scorpion's thorn, madrone and poplar-leaved rock rose. FAUNA . Natural Area The soil type and the location of Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja - in the south near the coast bring forth some special characteristics in the Spanish firs found in the area. The branches of the trees here are arranged in horizontal planes, and their trunks are straight and cylindrical. Older specimens exhibit twisted trunks or trunks divided into many tops in the form of a candelabra, giving them an almost ghostly beauty. Today, there are four quite distinct Spanish fir groves which have been preserved in these mountains: the Los Reales grove, the grove of Genalguacil (or Los Reales Chicos), that of Casares (or La Mujer) and that of Estepona. . . The elevational gradient in the region, its proximity to the sea and its location in the western half of the province - quite near the Strait of Natural Area The Spanish fir flowers in April and May and bears fruit from September to October. It is tolerant with respect to soil composition but not with respect to humidity (the Spanish fir zone one of the areas with the highest rainfall, though it can indeed resist long periods of drought). Spanish fir can live for up to 400 years and may reach 30 metres in height. CLIMATE . 46 the Egyptian mongoose - an animal which had been completely unknown up until that time. The Spanish fir occupies an area of about 100 hectares in Los Reales alone. Most of this area is located within the municipal district of Genalguacil. Vertebrates here include the populations of forest birds as well as mammals like the genet and the roe deer while, with respect to the invertebrates, it is worth noting that more than 60 species of butterfly are found here. Reales de Sierra Bermeja Reales de Sierra Bermeja When walking through Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja it is possible to observe such species as the ibex, the otter, the golden eagle, the peregrine falcon, the sparrowhawk and the Eurasian eagle owl. The presence of these species is evidence of the high degree of conservation in the area despite the loss of such valuable species as the bear or the wolf in days gone by. Other species inhabiting the park include the North African hedgehog and the Egyptian mongoose. CONVENTION BUREAU These forests are complemented with cork oaks and maritime pine. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 47 TOURIST BOARD & Reales de Sierra Bermeja . Various itineraries can be undertaken in Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja Natural Area including, Once you have finished visiting Estepona, you should take the MA-557 regional highway You can also get to Casares on the AP-7 (N340) motorway by taking highway A-377 at Manilva. After driving for about 10 kilometres along this road, you will encounter the turn-off towards Casares, which you will come to about three kilometres further on. Natural Area From Málaga you must take the A-7 until reaching the town of Fuengirola after which you should continue on the AP-7 (N 340) (E-15) to Estepona. From Estepona, it is necessary to take the MA-557 regional highway towards Jubrique. About 15 kilometres after beginning the ascent on this regional highway, you will come to the Puerto de Peñas Blancas mountain pass. Here, you will be faced with a crossroads. Going to the right will lead to Jubrique, 18 kilometres from the intersection. A left turn will take you to the Paseo de los Pinsapos (Walk of the Spanish Firs), 3.2 kilometres further on; to the Agustín Lozano shelter, 4.5 kilometres further on; and to the recreational area of Los Reales, 4.5 ROUTES THROUGH THE VILLAGES OF LOS REALES DE SIERRA BERMEJA You should then leave Genalguacil on the MA536 in the direction of Algatocín; in this town it is necessary to turn off onto the A-369. After passing through Gaucín, you must take the A-377 for another 16 kilometres in order to reach your destination: Casares. . . . Natural Area HOW TO GET THERE kilometres from the intersection. 500 metres after beginning the Paseo de los Pinsapos, you will encounter a sign bearing a poem written by Federico García Lorca. You should leave Jubrique on the MA-536 in the direction of Genalguacil, which is reached after driving for a little over 11 kilometres. 48 Reales de Sierra Bermeja Gibraltar - make for a maritime Mediterranean climate in this area. This means that winters are mild and rainy and summers are long, but not hot. The mean annual temperature varies between 14 and 17 degrees. The tour would begin in the Costa del Sol town of Estepona, a village which is reached, when setting out from Málaga, via the AP-7. The municipal district of Estepona is dominated along nearly its entire length by the Sierra Bermeja, making for simply spectacular scenery. In addition, the town has tried to avoid massive development as much as possible; the Town Council of Estepona was awarded the "Live in Spain - CISA 2004" award for the best administration of residential development. towards Jubrique. About 15 kilometres after beginning the ascent on this regional highway, you will come to Puerto de Peñas Blancas mountain pass. Here, you will see a sign on the left-hand side indicating that following that road for 18 kilometres will bring you to Jubri-que. CONVENTION BUREAU for example, the Paseo de los Pinsapos (Walk of the Spanish Firs), which starts from the Puerto de Peñas Blancas mountain pass. Other possible tours include the route from Peñas Blancas to La Majá de los Alcornoques, which passes through the Spanish fir grove of Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja, and the route from the mountain shelter at the Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja recreational area to the Pico de los Reales de Sierra Bermeja (Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja Peak). Nonetheless, in this guide we wish to draw your attention to the villages which can be visited on trip to this area of such special natural significance. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 49 TOURIST BOARD & Beginning of route . . Reales de Sierra Bermeja Reales de Sierra Bermeja CONVENTION BUREAU REALES DE SIERRA BERMEJA NATURAL AREA Halfway point End of route Natural Area Suggested route 2 . . 50 Natural Area Suggested route 1 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 51 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU PINSAPO DE LA ESCALERETA NATURAL MONUMENT Making the trip to El Pinsapo de La Escalereta (La Escalereta Spanish Fir) - the oldest living fir in Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park - not only means entering a world full of beauty and age-old wonder, but also gives you the opportunity to behold with wondering eyes one of the largest known specimens of this conifer species, Abies pinsapo. Pinsapo de la Escalereta Pinsapo de la Escalereta El Pinsapo de La Escalereta is a wise, old tree which should be respected, for certainly if we were able to hear what it had to say, we would discover many great mysteries and legends of past and present. What a great many things must have come to pass over the centuries (the tree is estimated to be nearly 500 years old) during which this great fir slowly assumed its spectacular form: it is more than 26 metres tall, 5.10 metres around the trunk and has a crown which spreads over an area greater than 200 square metres. . . This natural monument is found tucked away in the heart of Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park, in the district of Parauta. The park stretches through several municipal districts in Málaga, with Parauta containing 2,831 hectares of it - 14.04% of the total area. Natural Monument Natural Monument Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park is a living museum whose most prized treasure is the Spanish fir, a relic left over from the great coniferous forests of the glacial eras of millions of years ago which is now nearly extinct. The species is endemic to southern Andalusia and northern Africa. The Spanish fir is protected by law as an endangered species. . . 52 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 53 TOURIST BOARD & As you start along the way to El Pinsapo de La Escalereta, you will find yourself in a native meso-Mediterranean Holm oak forest and, as you get closer to the Spanish fir, you will come across the most well-conserved Holm oak forest in the park. Other trees found here in addition to the Spanish fir include the Holm oak, cork oak, junipers and pines. you will come across one of the entrances to Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park. If you take this access route - which consists of a dirt road - into the natural park, you will have to drive a further 2.5 kilometres at which point the road will fork after passing over a streambed. The right fork leads to La Fuenfría, but you should Once past the fence, you enter a magical world with a special microclimate. Here, Spanish fir regeneration is more apparent and trees of varying ages can be seen, often accompanied by young Holm oaks. This road, which is marked with the characteristic trail arrows, leads to the Pinsapo de la Escalereta where, from a viewpoint, you can marvel at the beauty of this unique natural monument. HOW TO GET THERE . Natural Monument 54 Málaga, Sun and Nature At this point we recommend you leave your vehicle parked in order to begin the hike on foot. index www.visitcostadelsol.com . . Wildlife also abounds in the region and mammal species include the ibex, the wild boar, the fox, the wild cat, badgers, genets, weasels, rabbits, field mice, the garden dormouse, fallow deer, mouflon and red deer. Natural Monument FAUNA . With respect to the undergrowth and shrublands, important species include hawthorns, daphne, peony, marjoram, rock rose, Jerusalem sage, honeysuckle, lavender, Spanish juniper and ferns, along with an abundance of lichen and moss which occur beneath the closed forest canopy. take the road to the left, which is bordered on both sides by private property. After two kilometres on this road, you will come to a large area of open land known as La Nava de San Luis; here, at a distance, you will be able to see a unique ranch and a copse of pristine Spanish fir growing in the shadow of the Cerro Alcojona (Alcojona Hill). You must pass to the left of the ranch and continue along the road towards the Los Quejigales recreational area. About halfway to the recreational area there is a turn-off to the right which indicates the trail to the Pinsapo de la Escalereta. Continuing on to the recreational area would give you the chance to hike one of the set trails in Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park, the Quejigales-Torrecilla (the highest peak in the province of Málaga at 1,919 metres) Trail. Pinsapo de la Escalereta Pinsapo de la Escalereta Starting from the city of Málaga, you must take the A-357 in the direction of Teba. Before reaching Teba, there is a turn-off to the left which indicates the road to Ronda and which connects with the A-367 Campillos-Ronda Highway. From Ronda, you must take the bypass which leads to San Pedro de Alcántara (A-367) and, about 1.5 kilometres from the Parauta-Igualeja intersection, The start of the trip involves a descent along a dirt road for about two kilometres. After passing the gate which accesses the Verde River basin and a few metres after circumventing a concrete culvert, you will come to a pathway on the right which forces you to pass through a livestock fence - built here to keep out goats and sheep which might damage the healthy Spanish fir regeneration existing in the area. CONVENTION BUREAU FLORA Birds which can be observed in the area include woodpigeons, jays, partridges, and blackbirds; among the raptors: short-toed, booted, and golden eagles; goshawks, sparrowhawks, kestrels, the Eurasian eagle owl and the common barn owl. One of the amphibian species found here is the natterjack toad. The ladder snake, the Montpellier snake and the viper are quite common in the woodlands of this part of Sierra de las Nieves. Málaga, Sun and Nature 55 TOURIST BOARD & Pinsapo de la Escalereta Pinsapo de la Escalereta CONVENTION BUREAU PINSAPO DE LA ESCALERETA NATURAL MONUMENT . . Natural Monument End of route Road by car Road on foot Road . . Natural Monument Beginning of route 56 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 57 TOURIST BOARD & This extensive natural zone, located between the provinces of Cádiz and Málaga, occupies a total area of 170,025 hectares of protected land, and - as can be guessed from its name - it is home to the largest and most wellconserved cork oak forest in Spain and one of the most important in the world. This forest of cork oaks, along with the abundance of other plant species living in the area, were the reason that it was declared a Natural Park in 1989, although the part of the park pertaining to Málaga had already been named a National Hunting Reserve previously (in 1970). Only 12,289 hectares of the park's enormous total area belong to the province of Málaga; more specifically, to the district of Cortes de la Frontera. This district also contains part (4,531 hectares) of CONVENTION BUREAU LOS ALCORNOCALES NATURAL PARK 3 rOUTE OF THE CORK GROVES: THE CORK TRAIL . . Natural Park Natural Park In some areas of the province of Málaga, the existing woodlands have represented - from time immemorial - a source of resources, obtained through exploitation of the forest. The harvesting of cork from the cork oak is a typical example of such activities and is still done in the province today. The extensive forest of Fagacaeas, which stretches from the western edge of Málaga and into neighbouring Cádiz, is one of the areas where this practice is still carried out - mainly during the summer months. Los Alcornocales (Cork Groves) Natural Park is, however, much more than that: it is, indeed, one of the most important protected areas in Andalusia. Furthermore, due to its immense size (it covers 170,025 hectares of land), it could be considered an excellent choice in and of itself for an excursion capable of fascinating the visitor with its dream-landscape. Los Alcornocales Los Alcornocales LOS ALCORNOCALES (CORK GROVES) NATURAL PARK . . 58 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 59 TOURIST BOARD & Los Alcornocales . Nevertheless, as previously mentioned, the plant species par excellence in this natural park is the cork oak, and it, in turn, forms the economic basis for the entire region. Traditionally, the bark of the cork oak - that is to say, the cork - was peeled off every nine years. This led to the establishment of an entire industry. However, the collection of cork requires no small amount of labour to carry out the various activities involved. These include everything from caring for the cork grove itself to . . Natural Park Among the unique features of this region are the so-called "canutos" (little tubes). These are narrow valleys of fluvial origin which, today, only exist in Spain and in a few very specific places in Turkey. The "canutos" act like a natural greenhouse and lush vegetation quite unlike that found anywhere else grows in these valleys. 60 Natural Park The strategic geographical location of Los Alcornocales Park has not only been favourable to human settlement since very remote times, but has also fomented the transitory presence of hundreds of bird species which - en route from colder climes - cross the Strait of Gibraltar here in search of warmer temperatures. Thus, in spring and autumn, the park becomes a staging grounds for hundreds of thousands of birds waiting for favourable winds to help them cross the 14 kilometres that separate them from northern Africa. When the birds finally take flight, they offer a spectacle of indescribable beauty. . The geological formation of this region began in the Tertiary Period of the Cenozoic Era and is estimated to have lasted for 60 million years. The climate in the Northern Hemisphere was, at that time, hot and humid, ideal for the growth of tropical forests. These forests, however, slowly began to disappear as the climate became steadily drier. Only scanty remnants of the forests lived on in the more humid areas, as is the case of Los Alcornocales, which has survived as the There are remains which suggest that these lands have been populated by man since at least the time of the Lower Palaeolithic. Human presence here is reflected in the more than 150 shelters and caves which are scattered throughout these mountain ranges and which bear abundant examples of cave art. Examples of Palaeolithic art can be seen in the representations found in the caves of Las Palomas and El Ciervo. There are, however, a great deal more remains which have survived from post-Palaeolithic times in the caves of El Tajo de las Figuras (The Cleft of the Figures), Bacinete and La Laja Alta, all of which are also located in areas of great scenic beauty. Los Alcornocales Jerez de la Frontera and Algeciras are the most populated in the area though, indeed, the towns themselves are located outside the protected area of the park. last Mediterranean rainforest in existence today. High mountain ranges in the region retain weather fronts coming in off the Atlantic, giving the area a very high precipitation level (around 1,000 litres per square metre annually). This and the protective nature of a special microclimate favour the growth of lush vegetation, as seen in the Bosque de Laurisilva (Laurisilva Forest). CONVENTION BUREAU Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. The part of Los Alcornocales pertaining to Málaga also happens to be one of the most well-conserved areas in the park. The other districts included in the park (Alcalá de los Gazules, Algar, Algeciras, Arcos de la Frontera, Benalup-Casas Viejas, Benaocaz, Castellar de la Frontera, El Bosque, Jerez de la Frontera, Jimena de la Frontera, Los Barrios, Medina Sidonia, Prado del Rey, San José del Valle, Tarifa and Ubrique) belong to the province of Cádiz. There are, in total, 17 districts - with an overall population of nearly 400,000 people - which form part of the park. The towns of Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 61 TOURIST BOARD & . Natural Park FLORA Málaga, Sun and Nature Among the many animal species who make their permanent home in Los Alcornocales, special mention should be made of the Egyptian mongoose - one of the largest colonies of which REST AREAS Located in Cortes de la Frontera, La Sauceda campground is a great place to rest in the midst of natural surroundings. The authorised trails in Los Alcornocales Natural Park which belong to index www.visitcostadelsol.com . In addition to the cork oak, which occupies an area of 80,000 hectares (a little more than half of the park's total area) and grows at elevations The location of Los Alcornocales - which looks out over the Strait of Gibraltar at Tarifa - gives the region a pleasant average temperature regime which varies between 12 degrees, in January, and 26, in August. East winds push great masses of clouds onto the mountain ranges here resulting in annual rainfall levels of around 1,000 litres per square metre. This favours the growth of rich vegetation and, as a consequence, very diverse fauna. Natural Park . the maintenance of the roads leading to the trees and they require a great many working days. Economic gains from cork production are complemented by the tourist boom which has occurred in the region in recent years as well as by income from driven-hunts which are organized in some areas of the park. The fauna in Los Alcornocales is quite as varied as its diverse flora. The migratory birds which congregate here - waiting to cross over into Africa - include short-toed eagles, booted eagles, Egyptian vultures, black kites, white and black storks, honey buzzards and many others of great interest to aficionados of ornithology - many of whom come to the park along with the birds in order to witness their crossing of the Strait of Gibraltar. CLIMATE . 62 FAUNA is found in this area - the roe deer, the wild cat, the otter, the genet, the red deer and the wild boar. With respect to bird species, perhaps the most typical permanent residents would be the griffon vulture, the Bonelli's eagle and the Eurasian eagle owl. Los Alcornocales Los Alcornocales On the mountain slopes - generally not suitable for forest growth - mastic, rock rose, spurge flax, hawthorns, Spanish lavender and heather species can be found, along with many other typical Mediterranean species. The botanical richness of the region along with its special climatological conditions - above all the high degree of humidity - allow the survival of some forest stands of extremely dense foliage. Such vegetation is rare in Andalusia and it tends to surprise the visitor, calling to mind far-off lands. CONVENTION BUREAU between 300 and 900 metres, Los Alcornocales boasts an amazing and diverse range of plantlife. Near the aforementioned "canutos" one can observe laurisilva forest, laurels, holly-trees, alder, ashes and cottonwoods all growing together with ferns and climbing plants. Moss generally carpets the forest floor here and sometimes even covers the bark of the trees. And indeed, the cork oak forests themselves do not consist solely of this one tree species rhododendron, wild olives, carob trees and European fan palms are all found in this ecosystem. Málaga, Sun and Nature 63 TOURIST BOARD & HOW TO GET THERE . . From the Western Costa del Sol, you must follow the A-7 (N-340) (E-15) Mediterranean Motorway until reaching San Pedro de Alcántara, a town situated between Marbella and Estepona. Highway A-376 leaves from San Pedro and ends directly in Ronda. Natural Park . . Natural Park From the interior of Andalusia, you should take the A-92 motorway in the direction of Antequera. Before entering the city, you will come to the turn-off towards Campillos on the A-384. One kilometre before reaching this village you will connect with a section of the A357, which then connects onto the A-367. This leads firstly to Cuevas del Becerro and finally to Ronda. Los Alcornocales Los Alcornocales The park can only be accessed from the Málaga side via Cortes de la Frontera, the only district of this province included in Los Alcornocales. When travelling from the Eastern Costa del Sol or from the interior of Andalusia, it is advisable to first go to Ronda and, from there, set out for Cortes de la Frontera. From the Eastern Costa del Sol you can get to the city of Málaga via the A-7 (N-340) (E-15) Mediterranean Motorway. From there, you should take the A-357 in the direction of Campillos. After passing through Cártama and Ardales, the road connects with the A-367, about 5 kilometres past Ardales; this highway then leads directly to Ronda. You should leave Ronda, the "Ciudad del Tajo" (City of the Tagus), on highway A-369, and, after passing Atajate, Benadalid and Algatocín, turn off on highway A-373. This will lead to Cortes de la Frontera. Cortes de la Frontera can also be reached from the Western Costa del Sol without having to go through Ronda first. This can be done by taking highway A-377, which leaves from Manilva and passes through Gaucín. Two kilometres before you get to Algatocín, you must take highway A-373. After driving along this road for about 15 kilometres, you will come to Cortes de la Frontera. CONVENTION BUREAU the province of Málaga are La Sauceda-Pico Aljibe (La Sauceda-Aljibe Peak) Trail; Laguna del Moral (El Moral Lagoon) Trail; El Cao y Castillo de Jimena (El Cao and Jimena Castle) Trail; Río Hozgarganta y Laja Alta (Hozgarganta River and Laja Alta) Trail. All of these are located in the district of Cortes de la Frontera. 64 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 65 TOURIST BOARD & Los Alcornocales Los Alcornocales CONVENTION BUREAU LOS ALCORNOCALES NATURAL PARK Natural Park Natural Park . . La Sauceda - Pico Aljibe Trail . . 66 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 67 TOURIST BOARD & r 4 OUTE OF THE INTERIOR NATURAL AREAS: THE QUIRKS OF INDOMITABLE NATURE . DESFILADERO DE LOS GAITANES (GAITANES RAVINE) NATURAL AREA TORNILLO DEL TORCAL NATURAL MONUMENT FALLA DE LA SIERRA DEL CAMORRO (SIERRA DEL CAMORRO FAULT) NATURAL MONUMENT El Torcal de Antequera is the most impressive example of karstic landscape (calcareous landscape) not just in Spain, but in all of Europe. The monument - including the adjoining Sierra Pelada - covers an area of about 20 square kilometres, although the area of protected land is 1,171 hectares. It was declared a Natural Site of National Interest in 1929 and was subsequently reclassified as a Natural Park in 1978. It is currently classified as a Natural Area. El Torcal de Antequera Natural Area is divided in several zones: a) Sierra Pelada: This zone is situated to the east of the monument and is characterised by a rather flat landscape with an abundance of dolines (sink-holes). The vegetation here is quite sparse and the maximum elevation in this zone is 1,154 metres at the socalled Camorro de los Monteses or Cerro del Repetidor (El Repetidor Hill). Natural Area CAÑÓN DE BUITRERAS (LAS BUITRERAS CANYON) NATURAL MONUMENT This is the perfect route both for the most-daring of explorers as well as for those who enjoy discovering new perspectives of the ecosystems which surround them. El Tornillo de El Torcal, the awesome formation which was named a Natural Monument in 2001 and which has become the foremost example of karstic landscapes, is a case in point. La Falla de la Sierra del Camorro, in Cuevas de San Marcos, and El Cañón de las Buitreras (Buitreras Canyon), in the Serranía de Ronda round out the spectacle. These monuments are sure to amaze. Situated in the heart of the Antequera plain, El Torcal de Antequera looks like a greyishcoloured city of stone. Visitors can lose themselves in the impressive labyrinth of stone blocks, passageways, and dead-end streets that make up the monument. Mother Nature seems to have moulded these stones on a whim - as though she were making a sculpture - leaving the rock in the shape of animals, people, screws, binoculars, religious articles, and more. And all this is surrounded by a silence broken only by the voices of visitors or the noises of nature itself. An abundance of water is certainly necessary for the tedious process of erosion. Of the 12 springs found here, the most important is the Villa Spring. It maintains its ample flow of water even in the middle of summer and supplies water to Antequera - the principal town in the area. . . . Natural Area SIERRA CRESTELLINA NATURAL AREA TORCAL DE ANTEQUERA NATURAL AREA 68 Torcal de Antequera Torcal de Antequera TORCAL DE ANTEQUERA NATURAL AREA Landscapes that seem to belong to other worlds, unsettling geological formations... these are impressive images which only serve to demonstrate the immeasurable power of indomitable Mother Nature over the earthly elements which have been subjected to her whims for millennia. In the central part of the province of Málaga - and only a few kilometres apart from one another - visitors can enjoy three of the foremost testimonies in the world to Mother Nature's capricious force: Torcal de Antequera, Sierra Crestellina and El Desfiladero de los Gaitanes (Gaitanes Ravine) Natural Areas - three sublime settings which fascinate all who come to behold them. CONVENTION BUREAU El Torcal is made up of three kinds of calcareous rock: oolitics, breccias, and clastics. All of these had their origins on the sea floor during the Jurassic Period and were subsequently pushed to the surface by the process of mountain folding. Despite having been raised more than 1,000 metres above the water surface level, the rock has retained its horizontal orientation to a large degree. The earth's erosive processes have carved out numerous fissures, passages, and rocks of many shapes which today make El Torcal de Antequera a living museum, surrounded by nature in all her glory. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 69 TOURIST BOARD & FAUNA The fauna here includes 116 vertebrate species counting all the amphibians, reptiles, birds and mammals found within the natural area. A great number of invertebrates are also present with the majority of them being insects. La Sima Azul (Blue Abyss), a vertical tectonic cavity of 114 metres deep; La Sima de la Mujer (Abyss of the Woman), 90 metres deep; La Sima de la Unión (Union Abyss), 143 metres deep; La Cueva de Marinaleda (Marinaleda Cave), which features decorated ceramic remains pertaining to a burial site; and La Cueva del Toro (Cave of the Bull) - one of the most important, containing significant archaeological remains from the Middle Neolithic. FLORA In El Torcal, reptiles can often be seen in springtime and summer. These include such species as the ocellated lizard, the large psammodromus, the Spanish lizard, the ladder snake, the Montpellier snake and the snub-nosed viper, whose venomous bite is quite dangerous. Mammals in the area include ibexes - easily visible here if one is careful not to frighten them voles, foxes, badgers, weasels and rabbits. . . . 70 Natural Area Natural Area Other bird species of interest in El Torcal include the black wheatear and the black-eared wheatear, the Eurasian eagle owl, the little owl, the common kestrel, the Eurasian crag martin, the red-billed chough and many different smaller birds (the blue tit, the great tit, the European goldfinch, the lesser whitethroat, the crested lark and the thekla lark, the black redstart, the blue rock thrush, the rock bunting, etc.). . The diversity of flora in El Torcal de Antequera is quite impressive as at least 664 different species of plants have been catalogued here counting lichens, bryophytes, pteridophytes, and spermatophytes. Of greatest importance from a botanical standpoint are the plant communities composed of rupicolous (rock-dwelling) vegetation, which moulds itself to the fissures and cracks in the rock, found in the natural area. Holm oaks, Portuguese oaks, mountain ash, and One of the most important aspects of El Torcal's wildlife diversity is its wide variety of bird species. This has lead to the Sierra's being declared a Special Bird Protection Area (SBPA). Here, birdlovers can observe golden eagles, peregrine falcons, and Bonelli's eagles, as well as griffon vultures. Torcal de Antequera Torcal de Antequera b) El Torcal Alto (Upper El Torcal): Located in the south-west part of the natural area, this zone includes the most impressive area of karstic relief in El Torcal, featuring a complex network of holes or closed dolines with narrow passageways. The maximum elevation in this zone is 1,339 metres on the Mástil de los Montañeros. On this landform, with its massive vertical faces and rocky openings, the majority of d) Las Carihuelas and Cortijo del Navazo Verde (Navazo Verde Ranch): This zone is among those which are difficult to access and it contains no visitors' routes. It is located in the western-most part of the natural area and features Las Carihuelas, an ancient Roman road situated 1,000 metres above sea level, and El Navazo, an area traditionally dedicated to agriculture. Another characteristic feature of Torcal de Antequera are the abysses and caverns found here. The most impressive among them include maples can also be found here, along with honeysuckles, shrubs and forest-edge species. Of special interest, however, is the ivy which grows in great abundance in El Torcal Alto. It takes on a wide range of beautiful forms in order to adapt itself to the rock. CONVENTION BUREAU the wildlife found in El Torcal can be observed. c) El Torcal Bajo (Lower El Torcal): Situated in the north-east, this is a plateau of smooth terrain bordered by El Torcal Alto, the Sierra Pelada and the cliffs. This part of the natural area features historical and cultural remains from bygone eras. The summit of La Vilaneras is one of most important rocky areas in the natural area. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 71 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU CLIMATE El Torcal de Antequera has a mid-elevation, semi-humid Mediterranean climate with three months of winter and annual precipitation levels of around 1,000 mm. The summer months are heavily influenced by drought conditions. HOW TO GET THERE Torcal de Antequera . . Natural Area Natural Area Torcal de Antequera When leaving from Málaga, you must take highway N-331 (A-45) towards Antequera. After entering the area of the Antequera plain, you must turn onto the A-354; this will take you to the town centre of Antequera after little more than two kilometres. In Antequera, you should look for La Puerta de Estepa; here, signs can be found indicating the way to El Torcal on the C-3310 regional highway in the direction of Villanueva de la Concepción. 12 kilometres further on - after traversing "La Boca del Asno" (Donkey's Mouth) pass (anticlinal termination of the structure of El Torcal) - you will come to the crossroads which leads to El Torcal. Right at this intersection, there is a small building with a sign reading "Punto de Información" (Information Point); this is a good place to stop and ask for more detailed information before visiting the area. About halfway from the intersection, you will come to the first obligatory stop: the Diego Monea Viewpoint. From here, the Sierra de las Cabras, El Puerto de las Pedrizas, El Pico Chamizo (Chamizo Peak), the Montes de Málaga, El Puerto del Barco, Villanueva de la Concepción, Málaga, the Sierra de Mijas and El Peñón del Fraile (El Fraile Rock) can all be seen. Continuing on along the highway to El Torcal, you will arrive at an area of parking lots where you can leave your vehicle before setting out on one of the various routes through the natural . . 72 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 73 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU area. However, one should indeed first take a look from Las Ventanillas Viewpoint which affords a view - from left to right - of the Sierra del Jobo, La Maroma, Colmenar, Casabermeja, the Montes de Málaga, Villanueva de la Concepción, the Campanillas River, Málaga and Mijas. The green route and the yellow route - the only two possible routes in this natural area - start from right beside the informative signs found in the parking lot itself. Undoubtedly one of the most important features of the natural area is El Tornillo del Torcal (El Torcal Screw), which has been declared a CAMPING AREAS Natural Area . The stone figures which can be found along this trail have names such as the dragon, the sphinxes, the equals, the binoculars, the dark alleyway, the bottle, the jar, the finger, the grills, the tobacco alleyway, the camel, the burro's hole, to name just a few. Natural Monument. Covering an area of 1,953 square metres, it is a good example of the type of formations characteristic of the karstic landscape, having originated as a result of the differential dissolution of calcareous strata. Because of its unique shape resembling a screw, the monument has been adopted as the emblem of El Torcal de Antequera Natural Area. . A recreational area and campground called Hoyo de la Turca is located near this protected area in the district of Villanueva de la Concepción. . . Natural Area The yellow route is an extended version of the green route. It runs along a pathway which passes by El Hoyo de las Ventanillas (Hole of the Windows) and then leads to El Torcal Bajo. Mazes, passageways and a host of unusual rock formations are home to an amazing assortment of vegetation. This route is 5.1 kilometres long with a medium-low difficulty level. It can be completed in about two hours. Torcal de Antequera Torcal de Antequera The green route is a footpath with free access. It leaves directly from the parking lot and runs through El Torcal Alto. The difficulty level of this trail is low and it can be completed in about 45 minutes. It is the perfect route for those who wish to enter into the otherworldly landscape of this city of stone, to contemplate the effects of erosion on the rock, and to experience the flora and fauna of the area in a short time. 74 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 75 TOURIST BOARD & Torcal de Antequera Torcal de Antequera CONVENTION BUREAU TORCAL DE ANTEQUERA NATURAL AREA . . Beginning of route Natural Area End of route Suggested route . . 76 Natural Area Halfway point Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 77 TOURIST BOARD & SIERRA DE CRESTELLINA NATURAL AREA Sierra Crestellina Natural Area is located in the Baetic Cordillera and consists of a steep crag of Jurassic limestone which rises up out of the Triassic sandstones of the Genal Valley. The Sierra Bermeja, with its rugged relief, its reddishcoloured peridotites, and its blue-green patches of Spanish fir, gives way - at its western end - to a different type of landscape, of calcareous origin: the Sierra Crestellina massif. This natural area, which covers 478 hectares, is like a little white island of calcareous rock surrounded by dark mountains and acidic soils. Agricultural plots can still be encountered here and they serve as feeding and reproduction sites for the animal communities in the Sierra. One of the traditional activities that still survive today is goat herding. The entire Sierra Crestellina is found within the district Casares. It, along with the Sierra de Utrera massif, represent the only two outcrops of calcareous rock in the entire region, which tends to be dominated by rock of a lead-grey colour. Sierra Crestellina . Sierra Crestellina Natural Area is covered by typical Mediterranean vegetation but features numerous endemic oddities. The most characteristic plant species here include the Holm oak, hawthorn, scorpion's thorn, rock rose, wild asparagus, buckthorn, rosemary, thyme and wild olive. The vegetation generally consists of cork oak forest, with Portuguese oaks occurring at higher elevations and patches of maritime pine appearing as an invasive species. Natural Area Natural Area FLORA . Many caves and abysses can also be found in Sierra Crestellina including La Cueva de la Virgen (Cave of the Virgin), La Cueva del Almez (Almez Cave), La Cueva del Puerto de Ronda (Puerto de Ronda Cave), La Cueva de la Cara Sur (Southface Cave), El Abrigo del Granaíno (Granaíno Shelter), El Abrigo del Pacis (El Pacis Shelter). Massive rocks, clefts, and spectacular limestone crags are also common and include Los Peñones del Cancho de la Virgen (Cancho de la Virgen Rocks), El Peñón de las Chapas (Las Chapas Rock), Los Riscos de la Gozalba (La Gozalba Cliffs) and El Peñón del Puerto de Ronda (Puerto de Ronda Rock). In Sierra Crestellina's catalogue of flora, plant species appear classified according to Autonomous Community or national standards, for example: Atropa baetica, Rupicapnos africana, Erica arborea and Quercus baetica. Sierra Crestellina Sierra de Crestellina was declared a Protected Natural Area in 1989 and it owes its name to the shape of the peaks of its summits - these are truly inaccessible "crests" prized by beautiful birds-of prey like the griffon vultures as a nesting place. La Albarrá Stream is the main surface watercourse in the area, though its flow decreases significantly in summer. Sierra Crestellina suffered a forest fire in 1984 which burned the western part of the mountain range and some of the central part. As a result, . . 78 CONVENTION BUREAU there is now replanted Aleppo pine covering much of the Sierra. In different areas, however, interesting tree and shrub specimens managed to survive the fire such as the Quejigo de la Fuente del Corzo (Fuente del Corzo Portuguese Oak), a centuries-old tree located in the north-eastern part of the natural area, and the Encina de Pepe Díaz (Pepe Díaz Holm Oak) - without a doubt the oldest of the Holm oaks growing in the mountain range (it has been calculated to be about 300 years old). It can be found in the north-eastern zone of the natural area. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 79 TOURIST BOARD & FAUNA Wildlife of interest includes the Egyptian mongoose, the marbled newt, the Bedriagai's skink, the wild cat, the ibex and the roe deer. However, the highlight here is the colony of griffon vultures, the most important in the province. The soaring flight of these birds can be seen from any point in the sierra. It is also worth mentioning the abundance of birds-of-prey such as the peregrine falcon, the common kestrel, and the Bonelli's eagle. HOW TO GET THERE . CLIMATE . Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com . 80 The only way to reach the town from the interior is on the Ronda-Algeciras N-341 national highway from the village of Gaucín, via the CC539 Gaucín-Manilva regional highway. At the start of the trail you will pass a fountain dating from the 18th century called La Fuente de la Arquita. It is a good idea to have a drink of water or fill your canteen here since it is the only fountain on the entire trail. The ascent leads to El Puerto de las Viñas (Las Viñas Pass) where a sign is located indicating the way to the shelter, found on the front slope of the Sierra Crestellina. Natural Area Mean annual temperatures are around 17 degrees Celsius with maximum average temperatures in July and August of 24-26 degrees. Minimum average temperatures of 8-10 degrees are recorded in December and January. Precipitation in the area generally occurs in winter and, to a lesser extent, in autumn and spring. The region only suffers a deficit in the hydrologic balance during the summer months; there is an excess of water during the rest of the year. Another way to get to Casares is on the Mediterranean Motorway by taking the exit to Manilva located on the section between Estepona and Guadiaro. After this, you should take highway MA-539 towards Gaucín until you arrive at an intersection; here, you should follow the MA-528 which leads straight to the town centre. This route is interesting in that it offers magnificent views of the Sierra Crestellina and Monte del Duque. The pathway is rife with typical Mediterranean forest vegetation including Portuguese oaks, Holm oaks, pines, carob trees, mastic, etc., and here you may also witness the soaring flight of the griffon vulture. . Natural Area You can also arrive via the Manilva-Gaucín MA539 local highway. Here, you will find an intersection that allows you to take the MA-528; this leads directly to the village after two kilometres. Once in Casares visitors must leave their vehicles in the Puerto de Ronda parking lot, at the entrance to the village. From here, you will begin the tour on a pathway with a somewhat irregular surface. This is the only open trail for touring Sierra Crestellina and it is known as the Crestellina Natural Trail or the "Ruta al Refugio de Sierra Crestellina" (Route to the Sierra Crestellina Shelter). The trail is eight kilometres long and can be completed in about three hours. The level of difficulty is low-medium up to the shelter but it is high along the descending section so care should be taken on this stretch. The second is called the Cosalba Viewpoint. From here, you can also see Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja, the Mediterranean Sea, Casares and some wind generators, evidence of the strong winds common in the region of Campo de Gibraltar. Sierra Crestellina Sierra Crestellina The town centre of Casares can be reached in a number of ways. At kilometre 146 of highway N340, there is an intersection with the Casares local highway MA-546, which ascends for 14 kilometres until coming to the village. CONVENTION BUREAU From the shelter, the descent is made along a section of path with a high difficulty level to the highway which leads back to Casares. Shortly after the shelter, you will see a sign indicating that you are approaching some viewpoints, 300 metres ahead. It is worth taking a look from these viewpoints as they afford exceptional vistas. From the first, El Castillón Viewpoint, you can see - from left to right - the peak of Sierra de Casares, Sierra Crestellina, Monte del Duque, El Puerto de las Viñas, Sierra Bermeja, La Herriza Matagallar, the Mediterranean Sea, the village of Casares, Sierra de la Utrera, Gibraltar, the Genal River, Los Alcornocales Natural Park and the Genal Valley. Málaga, Sun and Nature 81 TOURIST BOARD & Beginning and end of route Sierra Crestellina Sierra Crestellina Halfway point Suggested route . . Natural Area Natural Area . . 82 CONVENTION BUREAU SIERRA CRESTELLINA NATURAL AREA Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 83 TOURIST BOARD & DESFILADERO DE LOS GAITANES NATURAL AREA Desfiladero de los Gaitanes (Gaitanes Ravine) Natural Area, which covers 2,016 hectares, includes part of the municipal districts of Álora, Antequera and Ardales and is situated in the very centre of the province of Málaga. With elevations which vary between 240 metres above sea level and the 1,195 metres of elevation of the Sierra Huma massif, this natural area amazes visitors with its perfect juxtaposition of the two typical landscapes here: on the one hand are the jutting mountain peaks and, on the other, the smoothness of the reservoirs that surround them. Desfiladero de los Gaitanes . Natural Area Natural Area . Clinging to the walls of the gorge of El Desfiladero is the seven-kilometre long "Caminito del Rey" Málaga, Sun and Nature . 84 Opening up around the ravine is Desfiladero de los Gaitanes Natural Area, which also features impressive rock forms of varying origins and . The centre-point of this natural area is the Desfiladero de los Gaitanes itself. This is another of Nature's quirks resulting in the place where the Guadalhorce River merges with the Baetic Cordillera to form the narrow gorge known as El Chorro (The Torrent) or El Desfiladero de los Gaitanes. More than five kilometres long and with spectacular steep sidewalls reaching up to 400 metres high, the gorge forms a tight passageway; the water of the river surges through it, carrying everything in its path. El Desfiladero de los Gaitanes was designated as an Exceptional Area in the province of Málaga's Catalogue of Protected Spaces and Goods in 1987. The Autonomous Government of Andalusia subsequently classified it as a Natural Area, in 1989. Desfiladero de los Gaitanes This protected area takes in the Sierra de Huma, Sierra de la Pizarra and the Gaitanes cliff and ravine. These are made up of a series of stratified calcareous rocks which give rise to spectacular landforms. (The King's Road). Currently closed to the public, this impressive pathway hanging halfway between the earth and the sky was constructed at the beginning of the past century to allow railway workers to access the railroad being built inside the gorge. What was initially a service road went on to be called "The King's Road" after Alfonso XIII walked the length of the path on the 21st of May 1921 in order to inaugurate work on the railroad. But when referring to Desfiladero de los Gaitanes, the dams and reservoirs which surround it must not be overlooked. These were built to supply the city of Málaga with water, to irrigate the area of the lower Guadalhorce, and to produce electricity. These reservoirs make up the other great, flat landscape of this natural area. Although strictly speaking the natural area only includes the Embalse del Gaitanejo (El Gaitanejo Reservoir), it is impossible to understand the complexity and the dynamic of the area without considering the system of reservoirs that delimit it; these include the reservoirs of El Conde del Guadalhorce (Count of Guadalhorce), Guadalteba, Guadalhorce and Tajo de la Encantada (La Encantada Cleft). These together constitute one of the most important hydraulic complexes in Andalusia. CONVENTION BUREAU geological ages. It also boasts colourful reservoirs adorned with yellowish sandstone, which has been sculpted by water and time to leave a pattern of rounded and harmonious structures worthy of contemplation. index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 85 TOURIST BOARD & The plant species most characteristic of these protected areas are the Aleppo pine, Pinus halepensis; stone pine, Pinus pinea; Holm oak, Quercus rotundifolia; river redgum, Eucalyptus camaldulensis; hawthorn, Crataegus monogyna; Mediterranean gorse, Ulex parviflorus; whiteleaved rock rose, Cistus albidus; rock rose, Cistus crispus; and the Phoenician juniper, Juniperus phoenicea. A population of ibex, Capra pyrenaica hispanica, can be found living in the higher reaches of this unique gorge. The golden eagle, Aquila chrysaetos; the lesser kestrel, Falco naumanii; the common kestrel, Falco tinnunculus; and the northern goshawk, Accipiter gentiles, can all be observed soaring through the skies of the natural area. The griffon vulture, Gyps fulvus, builds its nests in the highest elevation zones of the natural area. The landscape around Álora is ideal for trekking and climbing. The limestone mountains of Sierra de Huma are characterised by rugged landforms, steep slopes, walls of solid rock and substantial elevational gradients - all features which are dear to the hearts of lovers of climbing, trekking, cycling, hang-gliding, etc. Upon entering this town, you will come to a traffic light indicating an intersection. The left-hand turn leads towards the town centre and the town hall. You should take the road to the right, marked as the El Chorro highway (MA-444). At about 12 kilometres down this road - and once past the neighborhood of El Chorro, the train station, and the Tajo de la Encantada Reservoir you will find yourself in front of El Desfiladero de los Gaitanes. This is the first indispensable stop. Here you can fully appreciate this natural wonder which is over five kilometres long and has gorge walls up to 400 metres high. From this point, the Caminito del Rey - currently closed to the public - built in the 9th century. The most interesting feature of this site is the Mozarabic cave-church which boasts a unique combination of Christian and Moorish structural elements. The church was carved out of the rock and, like a typical Christian shrine, has the floor-plan of a basilica with three naves separated by horseshoe arches. Continuing the tour along the Granadillo Stream, you can observe some curious sandstone formations called "taffonis"; they consist of rounded sandstone outcroppings in which the processes of erosion have carved out a cave or a shelter. HOW TO GET THERE can also be seen. As you continue ascending the highway with the border of the natural area on your right, you will pass the shrine of Nuestra Señora de Villaverde and, a little further ahead on the left, the sign and the road leading to Las Ruinas de Bobastro (the Bobastro Ruins). Natural Area The Autonomous Government of Andalusia has set up a network of trails and a viewpoint - El Mirador de los Embalses (Viewpoint of the . . 86 Natural Area The Mesas de Villaverde archaeological find, better known as "Las Ruinas de Bobastro", is according to widespread opinion - the place where the population centre which served as Umar ibn Hafsun's general barracks in his confrontations with the Caliphate of Córdoba was You should continue along the A-444 until you come to another crossroads, El Puerto de las Atalayas. The road to the left leads to the village of Ardales; you must take the right-hand turn in order to get to the reservoirs and the Poblado del Pantano (Reservoir Village). Halfway along this road, you will see, on the right, the first marked trail. This is the Gaitanejo Trail; it is 5.1 kilometres long and takes about two hours to complete. . . From the city of Málaga, you must take highway A-357 and then continue along the A-343. First you will bypass Pizarra and then, after six Desfiladero de los Gaitanes Desfiladero de los Gaitanes FAUNA kilometres, you will arrive in Álora, although it is also possible to arrive via Ardales. Here, the route that should be taken when leaving from the first of these villages - Álora - will be described. CONVENTION BUREAU FLORA Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 87 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU well-shaped, lighter-coloured limestone. And, at the point where the forest path becomes a sandy roadway, you can enjoy a fascinating walk along the edge of the Gaitanejo Reservoir. Here you will see - more on the opposite bank than on your side - what just might be the best shoreline forest in the province. Two other walking trails in this natural area are the Haza del Río Trail and the Sierra de la Huma Trail. Whether you decide to take a tour along this trail or not, you should, afterwards, continue along the main road until arriving at Poblado del Pantano. Here, you will be surrounded by the reservoirs of Conde de Guadalhorce, Guadalteba and Guadalhorce. . Three villages are located in El Desfiladero de los Gaitanes Natural Area: Ardales, Álora and Antequera. You should begin your tour in the village of Ardales, which is reached by retracing your steps from the Poblado del Pantano to El Puerto de las Atalayas. Here, you will come to the intersection that leads back to the village of Ardales. You can also easily distinguish the area of contact between the reddish-yellow sandstone and the You should leave Ardales on the A-357 in the direction of Pizarra, a village which is reached 16 kilometres along this road, after passing Zalea. From this town, you must follow the A-343 for seven kilometres until reaching Álora. Natural Area Reservoirs) - for visitors, making it possible to get the most out of a visit to this special area. You can enter into the very heart of the natural area surrounded by European fan palms, Holm oaks, Spanish junipers, pines and screw-bean mesquite and along pathways which were once the sole domain of Mozarabic "bandit-heroes", more than a thousand years ago. . The third and final stop on the tour is Antequera, which you will come to after driving for 36 kilometres along the A-343 . . Natural Area Desfiladero de los Gaitanes Desfiladero de los Gaitanes ROUTE THROUGH ÁLORA, ANTEQUERA AND ARDALES 88 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 89 TOURIST BOARD & Desfiladero de los Gaitanes Desfiladero de los Gaitanes CONVENTION BUREAU DESFILADERO DE LOS GAITANES NATURAL AREA . . Beginning of route Natural Area Natural Area Halfway point End of route Suggested route . . 90 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 91 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU TORNILLO DEL TORCAL NATURAL MONUMENT El Tornillo del Torcal (El Torcal Screw), which covers an area of 1,953 square metres, was designated as a Natural Monument in 2001. Due to its curious shape resembling a screw, it has become the emblem of the Torcal de Antequera Natural Area in which it is found. El Tornillo del Torcal Natural Monument is an example of the formations characteristic of karstic landscapes, brought about by the differential dissolution and disaggregation of calcareous strata in combination with the processes of erosion. It is a formation which is quite typical of those found in this natural area - considered to be the best location in all of Europe for the study of karstic formations and processes. . Tornillo del Torcal . Tornillo del Torcal Situated in the heart of the Antequera plain, El Torcal de Antequera looks like a greyish-coloured city of stone. Visitors can lose themselves in the impressive labyrinth of stone blocks, passageways, and dead-end streets that make up the monument. Mother Nature seems to have moulded these stones on a whim - as though she were making a sculpture - leaving the rock in the shape of animals, people, screws, binoculars, religious articles, etc. And all this is surrounded by a silence broken only by the voices of visitors or the noises of nature itself. Natural Monument Natural Monument El Torcal de Antequera is the most impressive example of karstic landscape (calcareous landscape) not just in Spain, but in all of Europe. The monument - including the adjoining Sierra Pelada - covers an area of about 20 square kilometres, although the area of protected land is 1,171 hectares. It was declared a Natural Site of National Interest in 1929 and was subsequently reclassified as a Natural Park in 1978. It is currently classified as a Natural Area. . . 92 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 93 TOURIST BOARD & FAUNA The diversity of flora in El Torcal de Antequera is quite impressive as at least 664 different species of plants have been catalogued here counting lichens, bryophytes, pteridophytes, and spermatophytes. Of greatest importance from a botanical standpoint are the plant communities composed of rupicolous (rock-dwelling) vegetation - which moulds itself to the fissures and cracks in the rock - found in the natural area. Holm oaks, Portuguese oaks, mountain ash, and maples can also be found here, along with honeysuckles, shrubs and forest-edge species. Of special interest, however, is the ivy, which grows in great abundance in El Torcal Alto. It takes on a wide range of beautiful forms in order to adapt itself to the rock. The fauna here includes 116 vertebrate species counting all the amphibians, reptiles, birds and mammals found within the natural area. A great number of invertebrates are also present here with the majority of them being insects. One of the most important aspects of El Torcal's wildlife diversity is its wide variety of bird species. This has lead to the Sierra's being declared a Special Bird Protection Area (SBPA). Here, bird-lovers can observe golden eagles, peregrine falcons, and Bonelli's eagles, as well as griffon vultures. Other bird species of interest in El Torcal include the black wheatear and the black-eared wheatear, the Eurasian eagle owl, the little owl, the common kestrel, the Eurasian crag martin, the red-billed chough and many different smaller birds (the blue tit, the great tit, the European goldfinch, the lesser whitethroat, the crested lark and the thekla lark, the black redstart, the blue rock thrush, the rock bunting, etc.). Tornillo del Torcal Tornillo del Torcal An abundance of water is certainly necessary for the tedious process of erosion. Of the 12 springs found here, the most important is the Villa Spring. It maintains its ample flow of water even in the middle of summer and supplies water to Antequera - the principal town in the area. FLORA CONVENTION BUREAU El Torcal is made up of three kinds of calcareous rock: oolitics, breccias, and clastics. All of these had their origins on the sea floor during the Jurassic Period and were then pushed to the surface by the process of mountain folding. Despite having been raised more than 1,000 metres above the water surface level, the rock has retained its horizontal orientation to a large degree. The earth's erosive processes have carved out numerous fissures, passages, and rocks of many shapes which today make El Torcal de Antequera a living museum, surrounded by nature in all her glory. Natural Monument . Natural Monument . In El Torcal, reptiles can often be seen in springtime and summer. These include such species as the ocellated lizard, the large psammodromus, the Spanish lizard, the ladder snake, the Montpellier snake and the snubnosed viper, whose venomous bite is quite dangerous. Mammal species in the area include ibexes easily visible here if one takes care not to frighten them - voles, foxes, badgers, weasels and rabbits. . . 94 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 95 TOURIST BOARD & El Torcal de Antequera has a mid-elevation, semihumid Mediterranean climate with three months of winter and annual precipitation levels of around 1,000 mm. The summer months are heavily influenced by drought conditions. HOW TO GET THERE When leaving from Málaga, you must take highway N-331 (A-45) towards Antequera. After entering the area of the Antequera plain, you should turn onto the A-354; this takes you to the town centre of Antequera after little more than two kilometres. In Antequera, you should look for La Puerta de Estepa; here, signs can be found indicating the road to El Torcal on the C-3310 regional highway in the direction of Villanueva de la Concepción. 12 kilometres further on, after traversing the "La Boca del Asno" (Donkey's Mouth) pass (anticlinal termination of the structure of El Torcal), you will come to the crossroads which leads to El Torcal. Right at this intersection, there is a small building with a sign reading "Punto de Información" (Information Point); this is a good place to stop and ask for more detailed information before visiting the area. CONVENTION BUREAU CLIMATE About halfway from the intersection, you will come to the first obligatory stop: the Diego Monea Viewpoint. From here, the Sierra de las Cabras, El Puerto de las Pedrizas, El Pico Chamizo (Chamizo Peak), the Montes de Málaga, El Puerto del Barco, Villanueva de la Concepción, Málaga, the Sierra de Mijas and El Peñón del Fraile (El Fraile Rock) can all be seen. Tornillo del Torcal Tornillo del Torcal Continuing a little further along this road, you will encounter a small building with antennas on the right-hand side. You can leave your vehicle here since the path leading to El Tornillo del Torcal Natural Monument is located about 25 metres away on the left-hand side. The monument is to be found about 150 metres along this path although it is already visible from the parking area. Natural Monument . Natural Monument . Once you have had a good look at El Tornillo del Torcal, you can continue along the same road until you reach an area of parking lots. Here, you can leave your vehicle before setting out on one of the various routes through the Torcal de Antequera Natural Area. However, one should indeed first take a look from Las Ventanillas Viewpoint which affords a view - from left to right - of the Sierra del Jobo, La Maroma, Colmenar, Casabermeja, the Montes de Málaga, Villanueva de la Concepción, the Campanillas River, Málaga and Miijas. . . 96 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 97 TOURIST BOARD & Tornillo del Torcal Tornillo del Torcal . . Natural Monument Beginning of route Halfway point End of route Suggested route Natural Monument . . 98 CONVENTION BUREAU TORNILLO DEL TORCAL NATURAL MONUMENT Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 99 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU CAÑÓN DE LAS BUITRERAS NATURAL MONUMENT Cañón de Buitreras (Buitreras Canyon) Natural Monument is a spectacular, narrow gorge more than 100 metres deep. It represents an impressive fluviokarstic formation which has been carved out by the erosive action of the Guadiaro River as it passes over the calcareous and limestone-marl rocks found between the Sierra de Grazalema and the Sierra de Ronda. This natural monument, which covers an area of 218,766 square metres, runs through the municipal districts of Cortes de la Frontera, Benalauría and Benarrabá and has its origins in the Jurassic Period, between 200 and 150 million years ago. Cañón de las Buitreras Natural Monument The town which best serves as a reference point for accessing the area is El Colmenar, also known as Estación de Gaucín. This is a small village of about 700 inhabitants located two kilometres from Cañón de Buitreras in the direction of Cortes de la Frontera. To reach the area from Málaga by car, the best is to take the AP-7 (N-340) motorway - which runs along the Costa del Sol - until reaching the town of Sabinillas. Here, you must take highway A-377 in the direction of Manilva-Casares until reaching Gaucín. From Gaucín you should take the A-369 . . 100 To descend through a canyon is to experience nature in all its splendour. Canyoning combines techniques from mountaineering and spelunking, but here, the water is a critical factor. When the Natural Monument The geological diversity of this area is complemented by its biological richness - equally worthy of respect given that the surrounding area boasts a thermo-Mediterranean Holm oak forest featuring such species as juniper, Juniperus sp.; mastic, Pistacia lentiscus; Holm oak, Quercus rotundifolia; along with other important species like the European fan palm, Chamaerops humilis, which stands out due to its grandiose aspect. HOW TO GET THERE At this point, you will begin to see several rather narrow tunnels which connect directly to the entrance to the canyon; however, going through them is dangerous and is also prohibited. There are several places from which the canyon can be accessed in order to start the descent (one of them is a trail which runs parallel to the river, another is reached after climbing to the top of the mountain through which the tunnels pass, etc.). In any case, the guide accompanying you will decide which is the best way to access the gorge depending on the water level in the river and the physical condition of the people in the group. . . FLORA The unique nature of the natural monument is not, however, only the result of its scenic beauty and its plant species, but also because of the colony of griffon vultures, Gyps fulvus, which nest in its vicinity. for about two kilometres after which you must turn off onto highway MA-512 towards El Colmenar. The entrance to Cañón de Buitreras is found between this village and Cortes de la Frontera. Cañón de las Buitreras The awe-inspiring walls of the Garganta de Buitreras gorge are nearly vertical and are up to 200 metres high in some places. In addition to its scenic beauty and its natural importance - for which it was declared a natural monument in 2003 - it is also worth noting that it forms part of Los Alcornocales Natural Park, a protected area located in the provinces of Málaga y Cádiz. FAUNA Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com TOURIST BOARD & The so-called "Puente de los Alemanes" (Bridge of the Germans) marks the spot where the walls of the canyon become higher and where the difficulty level tends to increase. The bridge derives its name from the fact that its construction was attributed to a German. It is used to divert . ROUTES THROUGH THE VILLAGES OF THE GENAL AND THE GUADIARO Cañón de Buitreras Natural Monument runs through the municipal districts of Cortes de la Frontera, Benalauría and Benarrabá. Thus, once you have finished visiting the monument and while you are still wondering at its amazing scenic beauty - you will have the opportunity to visit these three towns and fall in love with their rural charm. To make this tour you must again take highway MA-512 in the direction of El Colmenar, which you should descend until you pass to the village of Gaucín on the right and come to the A-369 in Another option would be to go from El Colmenar to Cortes de la Frontera on the MA-512 and connect with the A-373, but this route is longer and the road is in worse condition. You should leave the village of Benarrabá on the MA-357 and connect onto the A-369 shortly thereafter. This road will take you past Algatocín and on to Benalauría, the second destination on this tour, which you will access after taking highway MA-535. The section from Benarrabá to Benalauría is about 11 kilometres long. After leaving the main road - the A-369 - and turning off onto the road that leads to Benalauría (MA-535), you may get the feeling that you have taken the wrong way; there is nothing to indicate that you are approaching a village until it suddenly appears in front of you, without any previous country houses to announce its presence. Natural Monument El Cañón de Garganta de Buitreras is not especially difficult but, as always, one should take the basic precautionary measures. The best part about this sport is that it allows you to enjoy the scenery and physical activity in equal measure. If you have reached the canyon after the first of the long tunnels which you saw from the road, it will be necessary to swim during the first stretch so it is a good idea to have a neoprene suit handy if you are not already wearing one. The prevailing climate in this part of the Costa del Sol is not an obstacle for the practice of canyoning. One should, nevertheless, pay special attention to rainfall since it can cause the water level to rise and add unnecessary risks to the sport. Once you have had a well-deserved rest, you should retrace your steps back to the highway which runs between Benalauría and Benarrabá. After passing Algatocín, you should take the turnoff to the left that leads to the village of Cortes de la Frontera on the A-373. This village is situated in the western-most extreme of the province of Málaga, in the Serranía de Ronda and bordering the province of Cádiz. . . . Natural Monument water level is low, this sport can be practised in conjunction with walks along the river itself but, when the river rises, it can become a real whitewater activity. the direction of Benarrabá. Shortly before reaching Benarrabá, you will connect with the MA-537 which will take you right into the village. From El Colmenar to Benarrabá is about 15.5 kilometres and takes about 15 minutes. 102 Cañón de las Buitreras Cañón de las Buitreras This route is a combination of rather open chambers - into which light enters almost directly - and other, darker sections for which a headlamp really comes in handy. During the trip, you will have a chance to rappel, swim across some of the pools, and even jump from some of the higher points down to lower sections of the canyon. The spectacular views here can be appreciated from a small mountain called El Cerro del Oso (El Oso Hill). CONVENTION BUREAU water to an electrical station three kilometres downstream, quite near the small village of El Colmenar, which uses it to generate electricity. Looking down from the bridge can cause vertigo as the vertical drop here is hair-raising; the most daring lower themselves from it until reaching the bottom. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 103 TOURIST BOARD & . . Beginning of route Halfway point Natural Monument End of route Suggested route 1 Suggested route 2 . . Natural Monument Cañón de las Buitreras Cañón de las Buitreras CONVENTION BUREAU CAÑÓN DE LAS BUITRERAS NATURAL MONUMENT 104 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 105 TOURIST BOARD & In the northern part of the province of Málaga - in the district of Cuevas de San Marcos - La Falla de la Sierra del Camorro (Sierra del Camorro Fault) can be found. It covers 1,086,057 square metres and was declared a Natural Monument in 1999. Human occupation of the Belda Cave dates back to the Palaeolithic Era. This cave is of great interest, not only from a geological standpoint, but also from an archaeological and a biological one. Under Roman rule, Belda was one of the richest cities in Hispania Baetica. The prehistoric remains which have been found here are of extraordinary importance but perhaps the "star" of the find is an eyed statue a mere seven centimetres tall, carved from the phalanx bone of an undetermined species of animal. Remains left by the people who inhabited the area during the Moorish period of the 13th and 14th Centuries have also been found on the top of Cerro del Camorro (Camorro Hill). These include the floors of rooms, sections of stuccoed walls, ceramic shards and part of the foundations of a castle. Other points of interest for the visitor are the archaeological remains which exist outside of the caves. There is a small archaeological site near the Belda Cave and another larger one corresponding to the location of the ancient Medina Belda, situated on top of the summit on the western part of the sierra. Access to the area is by way of a metal staircase which ascends a steep slope. Once past this section, the slope becomes more gradual and the trail leads to the remains of the settlement and to a cistern, found almost at the very summit. . . 106 Natural Monument Natural Monument Currently the entrance to the Belda Cave is closed and a project is now being developed to open only the first chamber - that which was utilised most by the cave's prehistoric inhabitants - to public visiting. . . Archaeological remains have been found from this era with highlights being a bronze coffin, amphoras and coins dating from the time of the Late Roman Empire. In the entrance of the cave which is situated on the north-facing slope of the Sierra del Camorro - there is a series of steps cut from the stone. A tall, narrow corridor leads to the first chamber, where the most interesting finds have been made. Falla de la Sierra del Camorro Falla de la Sierra del Camorro The Camorro massif, whose highest peak is Cuevas Altas (907 metres above sea level), is formed of nodular limestone and limestone-marl rock dating from the Lower and Middle Jurassic. Time and the processes of weathering on the calcareous rock have sculpted a spectacular landscape featuring slopes with vertical - or nearvertical - banks. Throughout the rocky massif, numerous cavities and hollows have appeared, giving rise to caves and underground passages with stalactites and stalagmites. Rainwater seeps into the caverns through cracks in the massive limestone, sometimes accumulating in puddles or lakes inside the caves, as is the case with the Cueva de Belda (Belda Cave). CONVENTION BUREAU FALLA DE LA SIERRA DEL CAMORRO NATURAL MONUMENT Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 107 TOURIST BOARD & On the lower slopes of the Sierra del Camorro at the start of the area included in the natural monument - the presence of replanted Aleppo pine is the most notable aspect of the vegetation. The understorey is rather limited and is made up of species like scorpion's thorn, terebinth and buck-thorn, along with herbaceous species such as orchids. There are also isolated examples of Holm oak to be seen in the area, a testimony to the Holm oak forest which once existed here. near the sports centre - the access road for La Falla de la Sierra del Camorro Natural Monument is located. La Falla de la Sierra del Camorro features a number of characteristics which make it highly valuable for educational purposes and research. The future Archaeological Museum and Nature Centre - which will also serve as a Nature Interpretive Centre and information point for the monument - is currently being built on the borders of the natural monument. In this area - near the football pitch - a parking lot is also planned since, from this point on, tours of the monument are to be continued on foot. Within the area designated as a natural monument, there is an existing trail which leads to the Belda Cave and to the Medina Belda archaeological site. CONVENTION BUREAU FLORA Wildlife species found here include foxes, rabbits, hares, and partridges. Notable bird species in the area include the Eurasian eagle owl and the Bonelli's eagle, although griffon vultures may also be observed soaring above the mountain peaks. Falla de la Sierra del Camorro However, the most important aspect of the area in terms of wildlife is that it constitutes an important refuge for bats, who make use of the caves and cavities of the karst landscape. Invertebrate species such as arachnids, crustaceans, coleopteras and myriapods have also been catalogued inside the caves. . HOW TO GET THERE From the city of Málaga, you must take the A-45 (N-331) in the direction of Antequera. Before entering this town, the road connects with the A92. After three kilometres you should again take the N-331 (no longer a motorway) towards Lucena. Right at the border of the province of Córdoba it is necessary to take the A-6212. Eight kilometres along this road - after passing through Cuevas Bajas and on the outskirts of this town Natural Monument . . Natural Monument . Falla de la Sierra del Camorro FAUNA 108 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 109 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU FALLA DE LA SIERRA DEL CAMORRO NATURAL MONUMENT Beginning of route End of route Falla de la Sierra del Camorro Natural Monument Natural Monument . . . . 110 Falla de la Sierra del Camorro Suggested route Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 111 TOURIST BOARD & Terrestrial vegetation The predominant vegetative cover in Acantilados de Maro-Cerro Gordo Natural Area is Mediterranean shrubland intermixed with a few remnant forests and stands of Aleppo pine. Agricultural crops typical of the area are also present on the cliff terraces. The species which make up the shrubland include mastic, Kermes oak, common juniper, carob tree, wild olive and the European fan palm. . DESEMBOCADURA DEL GUADALHORCE (MOUTH OF THE GUADALHORCE) NATURAL AREA The natural area is a narrow strip 12 kilometres long paralleling the coastline. It is limited to the north by highway N-340 and extends one mile out into the sea of Alborán. The natural area consists of 395 hectares of land and 1,415 hectares of sea, in total. The United Nations has declared this natural area a Special Protected Area of Mediterranean Importance (SPAMIS) due to its significance for the Mediterranean basin. Another unique and attractive aspect of this natural area is the presence of common box - a species which forms a forest worthy of admiration in El Cañuelo. This species is one of the botanical treasures of the natural area, as is the shrubby germander; this is the only place in the world where both species occur together. It is also worth highlighting the existence here of the rare romero marino (Campylanthus salsoloides) and of the rock samphire, endemic to Málaga. . . 112 Natural Area DUNAS DE ARTOLA O CABOPINO (ARTOLA OR CABOPINO DUNES) NATURAL MONUMENT Acantilados de Maro-Cerro Gordo (MaroCerro Gordo Cliffs) Natural Area is situated in the heart of the sea of Alborán and stretches from the Torre de Maro (Maro Tower) in Nerja (Málaga) to the cove called "Calaiza", just past Cerro Gordo in Almuñécar (Granada). The spectacular scenery of this whim of Mother Nature is the result of the Sierra Almijara's perfect fusion with the sea. An awe-inspiring landscape has arisen with rocky seashores and sheer cliffs - often topped with surprising flats and terraces and reaching heights of nearly 100 metres above sea level in some areas. In the midst of all this are small beaches and tiny coves which, due to their inaccessibility, have remained nearly pristine natural areas. . Natural Area ACANTILADOS DE MARO-CERRO (MAROCERRO GORDO CLIFFS) GORDO NATURAL AREA In a province like Málaga, where the Mediterranean dominates a great deal of the horizon, it is not surprising that the sea plays an important role in defining the protected natural spaces. Thus, the visitor will encounter - in the very heart of the municipal district of the capital of the Costa del Sol - La Desembocadura del Guadalhorce (Mouth of the Guadalhorce), formed by the arms of the river of the same name and by an artificial lagoon complex. Meanwhile, a little over 50 kilometres away, on the eastern end of the coast of Málaga, Los Acantilados de MaroCerro Gordo (The Maro-Cerro Gordo Cliffs) are waiting to amaze. Both places have been designated as Natural Areas and are the best testimony to the enigmatic relationship between the land and the sea here. This strange communion can also be witnessed by the visitor if his itinerary includes the western part of the coast of Málaga, where the Dunas de Artola o Cabopino (Artola or Cabopino Dunes) are found, in the municipal district of Marbella. This is a network of fossil and mobile dunes whose ecological uniqueness led to their recognition as a Natural Monument. It is also important to note that the aridity of the region, in conjunction with its proximity of the sea, creates a semiarid microclimate which favours the intrusion of other species such as buckthorn, cambrón (Lycium intrincatum), and arto (Maytenus senegalensis). Acantilados de Maro-C Cerro Gordo Acantilados de Maro-C Cerro Gordo r 5 OUTE OF THE COASTAL NATURAL AREAS AND MONUMENTS: WHERE LAND AND SEA MEET ACANTILADOS DE MARO- CERRO GORDO NATURAL AREA CONVENTION BUREAU FLORA Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 113 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Marine vegetation . Terrestrial fauna Invertebrates inhabiting the natural area include sponges, corals, anemones, echinoderms and molluscs. Of special importance among these are the limpet, the fan mussel and the orange starcoral (Astroides calycularis), all species which are included on the National Endangered Species List. In terms of crustaceans, the area supports important populations of shrimp, spider-crabs and lobster. 114 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Sea turtles such as the loggerhead and marine mammals including common dolphins, striped dolphins and bottlenose dolphins, can also be observed in the natural area. CULTURAL ASPECTS Acantilados de Maro-Cerro Gordo Natural Area also boasts a great cultural heritage and features various important historical buildings - among them, the five beacon towers situated at strategic points along the cliffs. Málaga, Sun and Nature . . With respect to fish species, gilthead bream, annular seabream, Mediterranean boques, striped seabream, sea bass, bullheads, Mediterranean parrotfish, conger eels, moray eels, scorpionfish, ocean sunfish and groupers are all abundant here. These waters are also home to such colourful species as the Mediterranean rainbow wrasse, the oscar, the cardinal fish and the swallowtail sea perch. Natural Area The existence of marine phanerogamae "grasslands" on the sandy stretches of sea-floor is of special interest in the underwater zone. These are composed of Zoostera marina - whose distribution zone is the Atlantic Ocean and which is rarely found past the sea of Alborán - and of Posidonia oceanica, a species endemic to the Mediterranean Sea, where it forms seagrass beds considered to be climax habitats. Marine bird-life abounds in Acantilados de MaroCerro Gordo Natural Area and includes such species as the black-headed gull and the lesser black-backed gull. Various species of raptors also inhabit the natural area including the lesser kestrel, the peregrine falcon, the goshawk and the sparrowhawk. Reptiles of interest here include the ocellated lizard and the common chameleon. The presence of ibex on the sea-cliffs is also certainly remarkable as it is quite curious to see herds of these mammals in a coastal location. The common toad, the Spanish lizard, the snub-nosed viper, the Iberian mole, foxes and bats are also commonly seen in the natural area. Marine fauna . Natural Area FAUNA Acantilados de Maro-C Cerro Gordo Acantilados de Maro-C Cerro Gordo Undoubtedly the greatest jewels of this natural area are hidden beneath the waves of the sea of Alborán. In the mile-wide strip of protected marine area here, a wide range of Atlantic and Mediterranean biological communities are represented. The biological diversity in the natural area's underwater zone is greatly augmented by the diversity of habitats resulting from sea-floors of sand, rock, and marine phanerogamae "grasslands" in conjunction with the free-flowing currents and, of course, the stratigraphic zoning typical of marine ecosystems. Each distinct habitat gives rise to its own characteristic biological community. 115 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU . The Sierra de Almijara is situated in a region with a predominately temperate climate, influenced by the Mediterranean Sea. It is characterised by a dry season - during which there is virtually no rainfall and maximum annual temperatures are recorded (spring-summer) - and a rainy season, characterised by torrential rains, the absence of snow, and during which annual minimum temperatures are reached (autumn-winter). HOW TO GET THERE Sights on land The natural park and its surroundings feature areas of terraced agricultural crops, forest, and Mediterranean shrubland. There are many sites of exceptional natural importance including La Cueva de Nerja (Nerja Cave), El Cañuelo Beach, El Molino de Papel (the Paper Mill), El Peñón del Fraile (El Fraile Rock), El Cerro de la Caleta (La Caleta Hill), El Cerro Gordo (Gordo Hill), Cantarriján Beach, the forest found between Cañuelo and Cantarriján, La Cueva de los Gigantes (Cave of the Giants), La Cueva de los Genoveses (Los Genoveses Cave), La Punta de la Mona (La Mona Point) and El Peñón del Lobo (Lobo Rock). The numerous viewpoints offering spectacular vistas of the cliffs are also not to be missed. When touring this natural area, one should indeed make sure to visit La Torre de Maro, which can be reached from kilometre 297 just past the town of Maro on highway N-340. El Bosque de El Cañuelo (El Cañuelo Forest) is another must-see in the natural area. The most interesting aspect of the forest here is its abundance of box, a bushy shrub which, apart from here, is only found in residual populations in some areas of the islands of Majorca and Sardinia, as well as in North Africa. The shade provided by the cliff here is favourable to its growth in this forest. Just as important as these first two visits is a climb to the top of the Cerro Gordo beacon tower, which can also be accessed by taking the "Cerro Gordo" exit from the N-340, found just past the exit to Cantarriján. . . 116 Natural Area When setting out from the capital of the Costa del Sol, you must take the A-7 (N-340) Mediterranean Motorway which leads directly to La Torre de Maro (Maro Tower) in Nerja - the starting point for visiting this natural area. La Torre de Maro is located about six kilometres from Nerja's town centre. SIGHTS IN ACANTILADOS DE MARO-CERRO GORDO NATURAL AREA . Natural Area CLIMATE Acantilados de Maro-C Cerro Gordo Acantilados de Maro-C Cerro Gordo One of the natural area's notable monuments is the Acueducto del Águila (El Águila Aqueduct), located above the Barranco de la Coladilla or "de los Cazadores" (Coladilla or "Hunters'" Ravine) in Maro. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 117 TOURIST BOARD & A visit to Acantilados de Maro-Cerro Gordo does not necessarily have to be undertaken exclusively by road since - as previously mentioned - the natural area consists of a narrow, 12-kilometrelong strip paralleling the coastline and it stretches one mile out into the sea of Alborán. Acantilados de Maro-C Cerro Gordo . Visitors who have made the trip to Acantilados de Maro-Cerro Gordo cannot leave the area without first visiting the town of Nerja, which can be reached from Málaga on the A-7 (N-340) Mediterranean Motorway. After visiting Nerja, you can take your vehicle and head to the village of Maro. Maro is located near the Nerja Cave. It is named after a whitish plant, a reference to the whitewashed façades of the houses of the town. The village is a good example of the popular architecture of towns found along the Mediterranean coast. Natural Area . . Natural Area THE CLIFFS FROM THE SEA FROM NERJA TO MARO . There are many possible underwater tours but we would especially recommend La Pared de Calaiza (the Calaiza Wall), La Cueva del Sifón (the Siphon Cave), La Pared Amarilla (the Yellow Wall), La Cueva de las Palomas (the Cave of the Doves), Los Ceriantus (the Cerianthus), Los Candelabros (the Candelabras), Las Cuevas de Cantarriján (the Cantarriján Caves), Los Pasadizos (the Passageways), Los Estratos (the Strata) and La Piedra del Cañuelo (Cañuelo Rock). You will then come upon a large rock separated from the mainland - this is El Peñón del Fraile (El Fraile Rock). Here, the cliffs become even higher, evidence that you are now in the middle of the Cerro Gordo massif. This will be a journey of unforgettable beauty which will bring you in touch with the world of the sea. Acantilados de Maro-C Cerro Gordo This natural area is situated right in the middle of the sea of Alborán, where the Sierra Almijara drops away into the sea. This makes it a unique area in terms of its marine ecosystem, since both Mediterranean and Atlantic species co-exist here. CONVENTION BUREAU Underwater sights in the natural area A marine tour can be made by motor-boat or even by kayak, although the tour is rather long for those not in good physical condition. For such an excursion you can set out from Burriana Beach which is accessed via the town of Nerja - in the direction of Almuñécar. Along the way, visitors will be left in awe of the scenery: majestic cliffs are juxtaposed with tiny, nearly pristine coves and beaches, and with a spectacular fresh-water cascade that falls from a great height into a little bay. Sea birds and flying fish can be seen and, in springtime and summer, dolphins often accompany the tour boats. The tour will take you past El Barranco de Maro (Maro Ravine), Molino del Papel Beach, Las Alberquillas Beach, Las Calas del Pino (Coves of the Pine) and El Cañuelo Beach. 118 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 119 TOURIST BOARD & Acantilados de Maro-C Cerro Gordo End of route Suggested route Natural Area Natural Area . . . . 120 Acantilados de Maro-C Cerro Gordo Beginning of route CONVENTION BUREAU ACANTILADOS DE MARO-CERRO GORDO NATURAL AREA Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 121 TOURIST BOARD & HOW TO GET THERE More than 250 species of birds have been described in the area. This great diversity is due to its proximity to the sea and the fact that it is located on the north-south migratory routes. Some of the more interesting species found here include the grey heron, the egret, the cattle egret, the black-crowned night heron, the common shelduck, the little grebe, the courser, the Audouin's gull, the osprey, the black stork and the common kingfisher. Thanks to its proximity to the city of Málaga, access to Desembocadura del Guadalhorce Natural Area is fast and easy. When leaving from the city of Málaga you should take the A-45 (N340). After about seven kilometres, you will see the exit which reads "Guadalmar, Palacio de los Deportes". Desembocadura del Guadalhorce Desembocadura del Guadalhorce FAUNA DESEMBOCADURA DEL GUADALHORCE NATURAL AREA . The 67 hectares that make up La Desembocadura del Guadalhorce (Mouth of the Guadalhorce) Natural Area are located right in the city of Málaga - a mere seven kilometres from the city's historic centre and near residential developments like that of Guadalmar. . Natural Area The mouth of this river, which was declared a Natural Area in 1989, consists of the moving water of the arms of the Guadalhorce River and the standing water in an artificial lagoon complex. Due to its proximity to the Strait of Gibraltar, it is a stopover and resting area for coastal migratory birds and is thus ideal for bird watching. Natural Area . . 122 CONVENTION BUREAU The vegetation here is very diverse as a result of human intervention. Communities of both riparian species (Tamarix sp., Populus alba), and aquatic species (Juncus sp., Arthrocnenum sp.) can be found here. Mammals which can be observed in this natural area include badgers, weasels, otters, genets and foxes. There are also important fish, amphibian and reptile populations which include such species as the Mediterranean tree frog, the chub, the Spanish terrapin, eels and chameleons. FLORA Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 123 TOURIST BOARD & Once the environmental rehabilitation of La Desembocadura del Río Guadalhorce Natural Area has been completed, the Cuenca Mediterránea Andaluza (CMA) (Mediterranean Basin of Andalusia) plans to combine it with a project which will permit access to the lands between the two arms of the river and down to the seashore. Natural Area . . . Natural Area The pathway and tour through this natural area are currently not very well conditioned for public use. The construction of access-ways to Desembocadura del Guadalhorce is planned, however, and the project will also include the building of observatories from which visitors will be able to view the flora and fauna of the area. . The first thing you will encounter upon arriving is a viewpoint from which the mouth of the river can be seen. Here, there is a sign explaining the different mammal species inhabiting the natural area. Parallel to the right arm of the river a dirt pathway begins, which leads right down to the beach and features two more viewpoints. One of these is about halfway between the first viewpoint and the beach. A sign is found here indicating the different bird species that can be observed from the viewpoint. The last viewpoint looks out over the Mediterranean Sea. If you wish to continue your walk, however, you can go right down to the beach and lose yourself amongst the fauna native to this river mouth along a path which - after passing a sign from the Autonomous Government of Andalusia - leads to the artificial lagoon complex of standing water. Desembocadura del Guadalhorce Desembocadura del Guadalhorce CONVENTION BUREAU You will come to a traffic circle which you must go round completely in order to get to the Guadalmar residential development. Upon entering, you will come upon another traffic circle; this time you must take the road to the left. On this street - after passing the Santa María Estrella del Mar Church on the left - you will come to a place where you must leave your vehicle and continue on foot. This is the right-hand edge of Desembocadura del Guadalhorce. 124 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 125 TOURIST BOARD & Desembocadura del Guadalhorce Desembocadura del Guadalhorce CONVENTION BUREAU DESEMBOCADURA DEL GUADALHORCE NATURAL AREA . . Beginning of route Natural Area . . 126 Natural Area End of route Suggested route Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 127 TOURIST BOARD & The vegetation here is determined by the sandy nature of the soil, its mobility, and by the salinity of the seawater. Important species include juniper, mastic, and stone pine (most of these are the result of replanting and are about 80 years old), as well as flowers such as the sea daffodil and the famous Silene littorea. DUNAS DE ARTOLA O CABOPINO NATURAL MONUMENT Dunas de Artola o Cabopino (Artola or Cabopino Dunes) Natural Monument is made up of a system of fossil and mobile dunes and serves as a natural stronghold in an area which has undergone such radical changes - both in terms of tourist activity as well as urban development - as has the coast of Marbella. The most characteristic species here are European beachgrass, Ammophylla arenaria; sea holly, Eryngium maritimun; and graminea, Agropyron junceum. In areas closer to the shore, the sea daffodil, Pancratium maritimum, is common. Dunas de Artola o Cabopino Also of interest in Dunas de Artola is La Torre Almenara (the Beacon Tower) or Torre de los Ladrones (Thieves' Tower), which has been declared a Cultural Interest Site. It is the highest beacon tower on the coast of Málaga and was used by Christians and Moors to guard the coast against possible sea attacks. . . 128 Natural Monument Natural Monument . Made of up sand of aeolic origin, this complex system of dunes has arisen as a result of the action of the predominant winds and the process of longshore drift. . As mentioned initially, this natural monument consists of a system of fossil and mobile dunes. The first of these are primarily covered with various species of pine and Mediterranean shrubs while the latter form a barrier parallel to the coast and feature psammophilic vegetation, specially adapted to the conditions of intense sunlight, the constant battering of the wind and a scarcity of water. Dunas de Artola o Cabopino Dunas de Artola, which covers an area of 192,715 square metres, was declared a Natural Protected Space by the Autonomous Government of Andalusia - with the classification of Natural Monument - in September of 2003. Its protection is justified by its geological uniqueness since it represents the last vestige of the extensive dune complex which was once found in the province of Málaga between Punta Ladrones and the mouth of the Real River. This dune, which ran the length of Marbella, stretched from Cabopino to San Pedro de Alcántara. CONVENTION BUREAU FLORA Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 129 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU since the lot has a fairly limited number of spaces. If there are no free spaces, you can use one of the other parking areas found on the nearby side roads, though these do not have security surveillance. You will see several snack stands on the west beach of Cabopino and a provisional snack stand called "Las Dunas" in the centre of the natural monument. Although there are roads running across the dunes, driving on them - whether they are sand roads or one of the remaining dirt roads - is strictly prohibited so in order to reach the snack stand, you will have to go on foot. . HOW TO GET THERE Once there, you will find a parking lot with security surveillance in Torre de los Ladrones. You can leave your vehicle here if you find an empty spot, These improvements will be carried out inside the zone of maritime terrestrial public domain and the public right-of-way, between the Cabrillas stream and the Cabopino marina. In addition to the installation of street furniture, pathways will be eliminated to slow the degradation of the dune. An access-way will be created to Torre de los Ladrones -designated as a Cultural Interest Siteand the area will be replanted with native species such as cork oak and coastal juniper. Natural Monument Marbella is situated about 56 kilometres from the city of Málaga. To get to this Costa del Sol city, you must take highway N-340, which leads directly to the town. Once past the "Welcome to Marbella" sign, you will come upon a turn-off to the right which indicates the way to Puerto Cabopino. You should take this turn-off and, at the entrance to the port, take the road on the right-hand side which indicates the way to the beach. The Ministry of the Environment is implementing a project to organise the dune area which will involve the closing off of its perimeter, the construction of wooden walkways to allow visitor access, the elimination of the road for wheeled vehicles in the middle, and the relocation of the only snack stand currently found within the area of the natural monument. . . . Natural Monument Wildlife which can be observed here includes the blackbird, the hoopoe, the little owl, the lesser kestrel, the Kentish plover, the herring gull and the lesser black-backed gull. Dunas de Artola o Cabopino Dunas de Artola o Cabopino FAUNA If you want to reach Dunas de Artola o Cabopino Natural Monument from the highway that comes from Cádiz, you must also take the N-340 towards Málaga. Once past the Hotel Artola, you should take the previously mentioned turn-off to the port of Cabopino. 130 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 131 TOURIST BOARD & Dunas de Artola o Cabopino Dunas de Artola o Cabopino CONVENTION BUREAU DUNAS DE ARTOLA O CABOPINO NATURAL MONUMENT . . End of route Suggested route . . 132 Natural Monument Natural Monument Beginning of route Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 133 TOURIST BOARD & 6 rOUTE OF THE NATURAL LAGUNA DE FUENTE DE PIEDRA (FUENTE DE PIEDRA LAGOON) LAGUNA DE LA RATOSA (LA RATOSA LAGOON) Natural Reserve . Natural Reserve LAGUNAS DE ARCHIDONA (ARCHIDONA LAGOONS) The surrounding terrain - of gentle topography and covered by olive groves and grain fields - is dominated by the enormous Fuente de Piedra Lagoon, which combines the ecological interest of its important colony of flamingos with the scenic beauty of its vast water surface. Even during dry years when the water level of the lagoon decreases, the stunning beauty of the area is not diminished. . LAGUNAS DE CAMPILLOS (CAMPILLOS LAGOON) These four natural reserves, scattered throughout the region of Antequera, in Málaga, seem like paradisiacal oases specially designed to be the most picturesque of habitats. They constitute a network of natural spaces that make an ideal home for the great diversity of flora and fauna protected by these four wetlands, which have been recognized for their environmental importance. From the Fuente de Piedra Lagoon situated in the most important nesting area of the flamingo - to the lagoons of La Ratosa, Campillos and Archidona, these aquifers make up an area of extraordinary richness - thanks to their high scenic and ecological value - accessible to any visitor. A trip through the heart of this region is well worthwhile. Here, without having to go very far, you can see for yourself that water - apart from being essential for life - can also leave an amazing mark on the landscape. Laguna de la Fuente de Piedra (Fuente de Piedra Lagoon) Natural Reserve is found in the northern part of the province of Málaga, next to the town bearing the same name. It is the largest lagoon in Andalusia, covering an area of 1,354 hectares, and is considered to be one of the most extensive and characteristic endorheic complexes in Spain. This lagoon is a protected area of the first order among the wetland areas of . . 134 Fuente de Piedra Lagoon Fuente de Piedra Lagoon RESERVES - THE WETLANDS TRAIL LAGUNA DE FUENTE DE PIEDRA NATURAL RESERVE La Laguna de la Fuente de Piedra, along with the wetland areas of Campillos (made up of six lagoons) and La Laguna de La Ratosa, together constitute a system of lagoons of similar characteristics with respect to their origins and their plant and animal communities. Given their proximity to one another, each acts in a complementary fashion to the rest for the maintenance of waterfowl communities. CONVENTION BUREAU the Western Mediterranean and stands out as being the most important nesting site of the greater flamingo on the Iberian Peninsula and the second most important in Europe, after that of Camargue, in France. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 135 TOURIST BOARD & The lagoon has suffered a number of changes over time, mainly due to the salt industry, but also as a result of attempts which were made to dry it up in 1835 and in 1969. The first references to the use of Fuente de Piedra as a salt quarry date back to Roman times (the year 418) and its exploitation as such continued until 1951, when it ceased to be profitable. Changes carried out to facilitate the exploitation of salt resources led to alterations in the shape of the lagoon basin which, in turn, affected the flamingo and Laro-Limicolae (wading birds) populations here. When use by the salt industry came to an end, however, the lagoon entered into a cycle of filling and drying out controlled by the meteorological conditions of the region and this has continued up to the present. The rainfall regime controls the seasonal cycle of the lagoon and, as a result, the dynamics of the ecosystem. Fuente de Piedra is subject to drastic seasonal changes (a period of flooding and a period of drought) which determine the aspect of the lagoon. . Birds are certainly the most well-represented of the animal groups present here with over 170 catalogued species. In addition to the birds which live in the lagoon on a permanent basis, there are also many that come as a result of migration since this natural reserve is located along the migratory route of a great many Euro-African species. Málaga, Sun and Nature . . Natural Reserve The second ecosystem type is determined by the duration of the flood season, the degree of salinity, and the texture of the soil. Ramblas (watercourses with high salinity and extreme hydrological fluctuations) vegetation is found along the watercourses and channels around the lagoon and includes such plants as the autumn buttercup, rushes and common reeds. After this fringe of vegetation, halophilic communities Natural Reserve 136 The greater flamingo is Fuente de Piedra Lagoon's most characteristic bird. The most stable and numerous flamingo breeding colony on the entire Iberian Peninsula can be found here and it is - along with the colony in Camargue (France) - essential in maintaining the population of this species in the Western Mediterranean. Great numbers of these birds have been counted here (50,010 in August of 1990) in years when water levels are especially high. . La Laguna de la Fuente de Piedra features two distinct types of ecosystems. This first depends entirely on rainwater and occupies the terrain outside the perimeter of the lagoon itself. Here, areas of intensive wheat, sunflower, oat, safflower and barley cultivation can be found, along with monocultures made up of olive groves, Holm oaks and wild olives. Shrub species like Kermes oak, mastic, broom, scorpion's thorn and thyme are also present. FAUNA Fuente de Piedra Lagoon Fuente de Piedra Lagoon FLORA occur, consisting of shrubland of glaucous glasswort, other glasswort species and grasses. Finally, Ruppia spp. or algae populate the waters of the lacustrian basin itself. CONVENTION BUREAU The geomorphological aspect of greatest significance here is the lagoon's endorheism. It is refilled by direct precipitation, by surface run-off in the watershed, and by subterranean inputs from aquifers. Water only exits the system through evaporation. The salinity here is of continental origin: minerals deposited in the basin are dissolved by the water, making it salty. index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 137 TOURIST BOARD & RING-TAGGING One of the spectacles which attracts large numbers of visitors to La Laguna de la Fuente de Piedra is the ring-tagging of the flamingos. Ringtagging is done every year, as long as the flamingos have raised a brood - that is to say, if the water level in the lagoon was greater than 25 centimetres since these birds cannot reproduce during periods of drought (and thus they cannot be ring-tagged). In years with normal rainfall levels, 10% of the flamingo chicks are ringtagged. Tagging is carried out about one month after the last chicks have hatched but before they can fly. The ring-tagging process itself begins at night when it is still completely dark. Four groups of beaters, each with a coordinator in charge, spread out around the lagoon. They drive the adult birds until they take flight and simultaneously direct the chicks inside the corral previously erected in the middle of the lagoon. When 10% of the chicks have entered the corral, the doors are closed and qualified personnel begin catching them, one by one. They then hand the chicks to different groups charged with placing the rings on the birds, then measuring and weighing them. After ensuring that the chicks are in good condition, they are released. . This road will take you to the Interpretive Centre the first indispensable stop on a visit to the natural reserve. In the Interpretive Centre you can see an exposition which will inform you about the lagoon, Natural Reserve Natural Reserve You should drive through the village and, upon leaving it - just after the raised section where the Sierra de Yeguas highway crosses above the railway tracks - you will see a turn-off to the left which leads to the lagoon road. . In the days leading up to this event, the Town Council's Environmental Board organises a variety of activities including guided tours of the lagoon, expositions, breakfast in the town square with mollete (traditional Antequera bread) and local olive oil, and an outdoor party during which participants and observers are welcomed. in the direction of Seville; after driving for a little under 20 kilometres, you will come to Fuente de Piedra. HOW TO GET THERE When leaving from Málaga, you must take the A45 (N-331) motorway in the direction of Antequera and then - when approaching this city - connect with the A-92. You must follow this road . . 138 Fuente de Piedra Lagoon Fuente de Piedra Lagoon Furthermore, eight species of amphibian inhabit the lagoon including the common toad and the Iberian water frog. Of interest among the 13 species of reptiles found the area is the ocellated lizard, while the garden dormouse, the southern water vole, rabbits, foxes and badgers are all among the 18 species of mammal living here. CONVENTION BUREAU During the winter season, common species here include cranes, the common shelduck, the northern shoveler, the lesser black-backed gull, the Kentish plover, the red-crested pochard, the common pochard, the gadwall and the common teal. Other important waterfowl species present here are the black-winged stilt, the mallard, the common moorhen, the Eurasian coot, the blackheaded gull, the little grebe, the great crested grebe, and the black-necked grebe. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 139 TOURIST BOARD & Once your visit is finished, you can walk to two viewpoints right from the building itself. At Cerro del Palo (El Palo Hill) Viewpoint, flamingos and other birds can be observed - this is a real spectacle if you are visiting during the rainy season when the lagoon is in full splendour. The second viewpoint - the Laguneto (Little Lagoon) Viewpoint - looks out over a smaller lagoon located alongside the main one. ROUTE AROUND THE LAGOON Fuente de Piedra Lagoon The proposed acquisition of 59 additional hectares of land at Laguna de Fuente de Piedra Natural Reserve will allow the management of water inputs into the lagoon, improving its quality as well as increasing the floodable area. In addition, two other freshwater lagoons will be rehabilitated, deteriorated nesting areas will be restored, and the area will be replanted with vegetation. Furthermore, two new trails and observatories will be built with an aim to improve the conditions for visiting area. Fuente de Piedra Lagoon After leaving Laguneto viewpoint, you can take your vehicle and drive the "Route around the lagoon." This tour starts on a regional highway but continues along a dirt road for most of the way, paralleling the edge of the lagoon and allowing the visitor to fully appreciate its beauty. A few minutes after leaving the Interpretive Centre on the Sierra de Yeguas highway, you will come to the third viewpoint found at Fuente de Piedra: La Vicaría Viewpoint. Here you will have the chance to observe the plant communities of the lagoon edge and to identify such birds as sandpipers, black-winged stilts, plovers, zitting cisticolas, harriers, and egrets, to name a few. observatory near this ranch), La Rábita (here, there is an observatory which can be visited on a guided tour), and La Plata. Following the same road, you will come across the La Laguna municipal campground. From here, excellent views of the natural reserve can also be had. This route will again take you along the Fuente de Piedra highway to La Rábita, and back to the starting point. Natural Reserve Natural Reserve . The vistas from this viewpoint are amazing. In addition to the Interpretive Centre, the Sierra de Humilladero, Torcal de Antequera Natural Area, the Sierra de Chimeneas, the Sierra del Valle de Abdalajís, the Serranía de Ronda and Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park can all be seen. . As you continue on your way you will pass the ranches of La Herriza, La Madriguera (beside which there is another lagoon observation point), Campos (in ruins), Las Latas (there is also an . . 140 CONVENTION BUREAU its history, its geology, its flora and fauna, as well as about the greater flamingo. The documentary film shown in the centre about the lagoon and the flamingo is also not to be missed. Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 141 TOURIST BOARD & Fuente de Piedra Lagoon Fuente de Piedra Lagoon CONVENTION BUREAU LAGUNA DE FUENTE DE PIEDRA NATURAL RESERVE Natural Reserve Halfway point Suggested route . . Natural Reserve . . Beginning and end of route 142 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 143 TOURIST BOARD & In the Peripheral Protection Zone of this lagoon, the land is predominately covered by olive groves and grain fields. These surround the lagoon and protect it. The vegetation here has suffered a high degree of degradation; only a narrow strip of reeds with some rushes and halophytic vegetation common to saline soils remains. This strip is mostly limited to the area of public domain, which is separated from the floodable zone by rubble. This degradation of the perilagoon edge limits the lagoon's ability to provide shelter and nesting sites for birds. As a result, the lagoon is only currently used as a feeding area. LAGUNA DE LA RATOSA NATURAL RESERVE La Ratosa Lagoon Laguna de la Ratosa (La Ratosa Lagoon) Natural Reserve is situated between the municipal districts of Alameda and Humilladero in the western end of the province of Málaga, near the border with the province of Seville. This lagoon - declared a Natural Reserve in 1999 covers an area of 24 hectares. It is found at the lowest elevation of any endorheic basin and originates from a natural aquifer outflow. FAUNA . Natural Reserve . Due to the fragile nature of this wetland and the biotic communities it harbours, access inside the area of the natural reserve is restricted to those carrying out research or conservation duties. 144 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature . The bird species observed here are abundant and associate with the communities found at La Laguna de la Fuente de Piedra. Species include the great crested grebe, the black-necked grebe, the little grebe, the grey heron, the cattle egret, the flamingo, the mallard duck, the marsh harrier, the common moorhen, the Eurasian coot, the black-winged stilt and the avocet. Natural Reserve Precipitation levels control the water level in the lagoon as well as its drastic seasonal regime, marked by annual and inter-annual periods of flooding and drought that determine the biological communities living here. . There is little existing data regarding the aquatic animal communities here; that which does exist corresponds to the heleoplanktonic crustaceans, one of the groups which best characterises these wetlands. La Ratosa Lagoon The underwater vegetation here is certainly important. One of the species found here, Althenia orientalis, is of special interest at the national and European level but there is also a great diversity of other species including Lamprothamnium papulosum, Potamogetum pectinatus, Ranunculus aquatilis, Ranunculus peltatus, Ranunculus trichophyllus, Ranunculus trichophyllus trichophyllus, Ruppia drepanensis and Zannichellia palustris. CONVENTION BUREAU FLORA 145 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Birds more closely associated with a marine environment such as the black-headed gull, the lesser black-backed gull, the gull-billed tern and the black tern find food of human origins here. Mammals present in the area include rabbits, the common hedgehog, and various species of rodents. HOW TO GET THERE . About three kilometres from Alameda, you will come across a sign indicating La Laguna de La Ratosa 500 metres ahead. It is accessed by a road which turns off from the left-hand side of the highway. After entering this dirt road, the first thing one sees is a sign from the Autonomous Community of Andalusia indicating the presence of La Laguna Castañuela (Nut Sedge Lagoon) to the right. According to the locals, the name of this lagoon came about because this plant - the nut sedge - which is found at the lagoon, constitutes one of the main food sources for the flamingos. Continuing a little further on, you will arrive at La Laguna de La Ratosa, encircled by olive trees and grain fields. . Natural Reserve . . Natural Reserve Once past the village of Mollina, you should head towards Alameda on the MA-704. From this village, where the famous bandit El Tempranillo is buried, you must look for the exit towards La Roda de Andalucía on the MA-705. La Laguna de la Ratosa is found at the same distance from the village of Alameda, in Málaga, as La Roda de Andalucía is from Seville. La Ratosa Lagoon La Ratosa Lagoon When leaving from the city of Málaga, you must take the A-45 (N-331) motorway until near Antequera, where you must then take the entrance onto the A-92 motorway in the direction of Seville. From this motorway there is a very well-marked exit towards Mollina. 146 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 147 TOURIST BOARD & La Ratosa Lagoon La Ratosa Lagoon CONVENTION BUREAU LAGUNA DE LA RATOSA NATURAL RESERVE . . Beginning of route End of route Suggested route . . 148 Natural Reserve Natural Reserve Halfway point Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 149 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU LAGUNAS DE CAMPILLOS NATURAL RESERVE Lagunas de Campillos (Campillos Lagoons) Natural Reserve is situated in the northern part of the province of Málaga, in the municipal district of Campillos. Taking in a total protected area of 1,126 hectares, it is made up of a group of seasonally saline lagoons. These are La Laguna Dulce (Freshwater Lagoon - the largest), La Laguna Salada (Salty Lagoon), La Laguna de Camuñas (Camuñas Lagoon), La Laguna de Capacete (Capacete Lagoon) and La Laguna del Cerezo (Cerezo Lagoon). This is an area of high ecological importance both due to its geological characteristics as well as for the flora and fauna found here. It was declared a Natural Reserve in 1989. The area is characterised by a rather flat topography with a poorly-defined drainage pattern where the existence of more or less isolated basins allows the formation of endorheic lagoons. Campillos Lagoons . . Málaga, Sun and Nature Natural Reserve Natural Reserve . The lagoons are oriented north-south and all contain freshwater except for the one known as La Salada (the Salty Lagoon). A manuscript dating from 1833 attests to the fact that in the largest of them, La Dulce, the locals once practised sport fishing. Today, flamingos and ducks, as well as other animals, can be seen around the lagoons. About 40 years ago, La Laguna Salada was utilised for the extraction of sodium chloride. Of all the lagoons which once existed here, La Redonda Lagoon and Laguna del Toro (Toro Lagoon) have now disappeared. . 150 Campillos Lagoons The topography of the lagoon complex basins has scarcely undergone any degradation and, as a result, the drainage regime here is rather indistinct and not very dynamic. Water temporarily fills the lagoons from the beginning of autumn until the start of summer. In summer the lagoons dry out completely and in drought years, or years with little rainfall, they may be dry during practically the entire year. index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 151 TOURIST BOARD & If you wish to take an extended tour of the lagoons, you will have to go by car to the next stop on the itinerary: La Laguna de Cerezo, which is also accessed via the A-384 and which is located 2.5 kilometres from Laguna Dulce. This lagoon is surrounded by olive trees and grain fields. Nearby, La Laguna de Camuñas, the smallest of the lagoons included in the natural reserve, can also be viewed. In order to visit La Laguna Salada and La Laguna de Capacete, you must take highway MA-452, which leads to the reservoirs of Guadalteba and Guadalhorce. CONVENTION BUREAU The fauna here is mainly composed of water birds, primarily Anatidae (shelducks, teals and ducks) and Limicolae (Kentish plovers and sandpipers). Flamingos, black-winged stilts, coots and avocets are also found here. Reptiles include the ocellated lizard, the Montpellier snake, the viperine snake and the water snake. The green frog, the parsley frog and the Iberian parsley frog are the most abundant amphibians. The most important mammal species here include hares, rabbits, southern water voles, foxes, and weasels. Interesting flora found at La Laguna Dulce (Freshwater Lagoon) includes shrub species like rosemary, rock rose, Jerusalem sage, thyme and scorpion's thorn; at Camuñas Lagoon, mastic can be found. There is also lacustrian . La Laguna Salada (Salty Lagoon) features such species as Althenia orientalis, Chara aspera, Chara galioides and Ruppia. FAUNA Waterfowl are the most characteristic of the vertebrates in the lagoon complex, having adapted themselves well to these fluctuating wetlands. Both the number and type of waterfowl present at any one time are determined by the water level in the lagoons. La Laguna Dulce (the most important of those found in this village) is located less than two kilometres before reaching Campillos. You must pay careful attention so as to see the sign on the right-hand side indicating the way to the lagoon; if you miss it you may get lost. La Laguna Dulce features a recreational area with wooden tables and benches as well as a well-equipped observatory for public use which allows visitors to observe water birds without bothering them. Inside the observatory is an informative sign explaining the different bird species found in the lagoons. Natural Reserve The precipitation regime controls the water level in the lagoons as well as their drastic seasonal cycles and this also determines the biological communities which inhabit them. The area features terrestrial ecosystems - where natural vegetation is scarce due to the traditional tilling of the land - and aquatic ecosystems, which include the aquatic and perilagoon vegetation living at the lagoon edge. vegetation including reeds, rushes and nut sedge, though this is quite deteriorated in some areas. Olive groves and crops of herbaceous plants are found around the lagoons. . . . Natural Reserve FLORA From the city of Málaga, you must take the A-45 in the direction of Seville until you connect with the A-92, which you should follow for six kilometres. You must then take the motorway exit indicating Antequera, Campillos and El Torcal. From here, you will connect directly with the A384 that leads to the town of Campillos. When leaving from the capital of the Costa del Sol (Málaga), you can also take the A-357, which goes directly to Campillos; no turn-offs are necessary. Campillos Lagoons Campillos Lagoons HOW TO GET THERE 152 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 153 TOURIST BOARD & Campillos Lagoons Campillos Lagoons CONVENTION BUREAU LAGUNAS DE CAMPILLOS NATURAL RESERVE . . Natural Reserve Halfway point End of route Suggested route . . Natural Reserve Beginning of route 154 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 155 TOURIST BOARD & b) Various terrestrial ecosystems (the collection basin of the lagoons which includes the entire Peripheral Protection Zone) and aquatic ecosystems (the two lagoons and their fringe of perilagoon vegetation) can be distinguished in the area. Predominant species in the lagoon include juncal (Juncetum sp.), rushes, common reeds, and reeds while, near the shore, Polypogon monspeliensis, Cyperus fuscus, rushes (Juncus pygmaeus), and some new tamarisk shoots, Tamarix canariensis can all be found. Spanish broom, esparto grass and gorse grow in the zone extending from the shore to the start of the Holm oak forest. There is also a weeping willow growing at the foot of the entrance road to Laguna Grande. a) LAGUNAS DE ARCHIDONA NATURAL RESERVE Archidona Lagoons The plant communities at La Laguna Chica are very similar to those found at La Laguna Grande, although they have a drier and less colourful aspect. A greater abundance of common reeds, rushes and reeds and a more highly developed halophytic community constitute the main differences. . . Málaga, Sun and Nature Natural Reserve Natural Reserve . Lagunas de Archidona Natural Reserve is a wetland of endorheic origins featuring saline waters rich in sulphates. Its scenic and ecological value is augmented by the existence along its perimeter of a copse of Holm oak, home to numerous protected bird species. One of the unique aspects of these lagoons which were designated as a Natural Reserve in 1989 - is their elevation: they are situated between 760 and 823 metres above sea level and are encircled by a series of promontories which hide them from the outside world. Las Lagunas de Archidona can be divided into two zones: the first corresponds to the lagoons themselves and the second to the Peripheral Protection Zone, which covers an area of 187 hectares.. . 156 Mediterranean forest and shrubland can both be found in Lagunas de Archidona Natural Reserve. These include such characteristic species as Holm oak, Kermes oak, gorse, rock rose, Jerusalem sage and hawthorn. Degraded shrubland consisting of Spanish broom, esparto grass, thistle and wild asparagus is also present. Finally, agricultural lands dedicated to the production of almonds and olives as well as pastureland are also present. Archidona Lagoons Lagunas de Archidona (Archidona Lagoons) Natural Reserve is located in the northeastern part of the province of Málaga, in the municipal district of Archidona, in the centralwestern part of the Baetic Cordillera. This natural reserve, also known as Lagunas de Salinas (Salinas Lagoons), covers an area of seven hectares and is made up of La Laguna Grande (the Big Lagoon) (five hectares) and La Laguna Chica (the Little Lagoon) (two hectares). Terrestrial ecosystems Aquatic ecosystems CONVENTION BUREAU FLORA index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 157 TOURIST BOARD & HOW TO GET THERE A fairly well-developed animal community exists here, associated with the forest and shrublands. Reptiles found here include the Montpellier snake, the ladder snake, the ocellated lizard, the common salamander and the blind snake. When leaving from the city of Málaga, you must take the A-45 to El Puerto de las Pedrizas and then take the A-359 in the direction of Almería. You should exit this highway at the sign indicating Estación de Salinas and Villanueva de Tapia and then head towards Fuente Camacho. After a few metres, you will come to an intersection where you should turn to the right and take the highway parallel to the A-359. After one kilometre, you will come to a road in rather poor condition which leads to Laguna Grande. Birds inhabiting the area include common kestrels, partridges, woodpigeons, turtledoves, cuckoos, barn owls, little owls, red-necked nightjars, jays and azure-winged magpies; while mammals such as common hedgehogs, rabbits, hares, foxes, weasels, genets and badgers are all found here. . Natural Reserve CLIMATE Málaga, Sun and Nature . The region where these two lagoons are found has a continental Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and cool winters. The Archidona lagoons fall into the zone denominated as "Málaga sub-humid" according to the mean annual precipitation levels for each season here. The Sierra de Gibalto range - to the south-east in the province of Granada - and the Sierra de San Jorge and Sierra Gorda mountain ranges - further south in the municipal district of Villanueva del Trabuco - serve as background scenery here and help to highlight the natural beauty of the area. All are visible from the lagoons. Natural Reserve . The only mammal living in the aquatic zone is the southern water vole. La Laguna Grande is kidney-shaped and its waters are quite deep - between six and ten metres. La Laguna Chica is situated about 900 metres away to the southwest and is separated from the first by Las Lagunas Ranch. It is shallower than La Laguna Grande, not exceeding three metres in depth. . 158 Waterfowl species found here include the little grebe, the black-necked grebe, the great crested grebe, the grey heron, the mallard duck, the northern shoveler, the Eurasian widgeon, the redcrested pochard, the common moorhen, the Eurasian coot, the little ringed plover and the Kentish plover. Here you will see a fence with a sign reading "Prohibido el Paso" (No Trespassing). The Archidona Lagoons are private property and access to their interior is absolutely prohibited. For access into the natural reserve a permit from the Ministry of the Environment is required. Nevertheless, you can enjoy the surrounding scenery and tour the Peripheral Protection Zone, which is not private property. Archidona Lagoons Archidona Lagoons With respect to the aquatic ecosystems in the lagoon, the existence of fish species such as catfish and Gambusia affinis has been verified. Amphibians present include the common frog, the common toad and the natterjack toad, while the reptiles are represented by species like the water snake and the Spanish terrapin. CONVENTION BUREAU FAUNA index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 159 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU LAGUNAS DE ARCHIDONA NATURAL RESERVE Beginning of route Halfway point End of route Archidona Lagoons Archidona Lagoons Suggested route Natural Reserve Natural Reserve . . . . 160 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 161 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU r 7 OUTE OF THE SUBURBAN PARKS - NATURE AT THE FOOT OF THE CITY PINAR DEL HACHO (EL HACHO PINE GROVE) Sierra de Gracia Suburban Park is located in the town of Archidona and is one of the most characteristic features of the scenery in the northern part of the province of Málaga. 162 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com FLORA The various types of habitat existing in the area are typical of a Mediterranean climate zone. Shrubland is scattered throughout the entire district and the various species found in it are generally those associated with the presence of Holm oak forest. Important species include the Holm oak itself, hawthorns, prickly pear cactus, spurge flax, buckthorn, thyme and scorpion's thorn, to name a few. Málaga, Sun and Nature . . Covering an area of 35.3 hectares, this suburban park has an uneven topography due to its situation on a mountainous side-slope. Apart from its natural importance it holds an even greater - if possible - cultural significance since this mountain range harbours remains from the Roman, Moorish and Christian eras; all these aspects come together to make this an amazing monument. To the north, Sierra de Gracia Suburban Park borders agricultural lands belonging to various landowners. It is delimited by an area known as the Sierra de Calderón to the east and to the south, by the city centre of Archidona and part of the La Hoya road. The La Hoya road also borders the park to the west. Suburban Park Suburban Park SIERRA DE GRACIA SUBURBAN PARK . . DEHESA DEL MERCADILLO (EL MERCADILLO PASTURE) Three towns located in the interior of Málaga - Archidona, Antequera and Ronda - are the three districts in this province which feature suburban parks protected by the Public Administration. These are vast green zones home an abundance of plant and animal species where fascinating archaeological sites (in the case of Sierra de Gracia and Pinar del Hacho) can also be found. They also feature sports facilities, recreational and educational zones, and even areas dedicated to use by livestock (in the case of Dehesa del Mercadillo). These are, without a doubt, three prime examples of the fact that nature and civilization, the environment and urban development do not always have to be in opposition to one another. If you want to see for yourself, what better way than to take a walk through these gigantic parks found right at the foot of the city. Sierra de Gracia Sierra de Gracia SIERRA DE GRACIA 163 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU The vegetation in Sierra de Gracia Suburban Park is characterised chiefly by stands of replanted Aleppo pine although Portuguese oak, rock rose and Jerusalem sage are also common here. The pasturelands feature esparto grass, fennel, Spanish broom and strawflower. FAUNA Important mammal species include deer, wild boars, and foxes although rabbits, Schreiber's bats, greater white-toothed shrews, Etruscan pygmy shrews, black rats, Algerian mice, garden dormice and badgers also inhabit the area, among others. 164 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com On top of the ruins of the Roman walls, the Moors raised a fortress consisting of three bastions of defence; today only two remain standing and they are quite deteriorated. These defensive fortifications are only found on one side of the mountain since the other side is guarded by an impressive cleft. Málaga, Sun and Nature . . When setting out from the city of Málaga, you must take the A-45 until you pass El Puerto de las Pedrizas, where you will connect with the A359 in the direction of Almería. You will see a sign indicating the exit towards Archidona and you should take this turn-off so as to connect Once in Archidona, you should find Avenida de Andalucía and follow it - you will pass the football field, the road to Villanueva del Trabuco, and the Mirador de Archidona (Archidona Viewpoint) on the right-hand side. A little further on, you should turn to the left towards the neighbourhood of Camino del Santuario. The road to the Santuario de la Virgen de Gracia (Virgin de Gracia Sanctuary) - found in the heart of Sierra de Gracia Suburban Park - starts from here. While ascending this rather steep and somewhat windy road, visitors can enjoy seven different points of interest in the park. The first sights are the castle and the Roman walls. Their original construction dates back to the 9th century, although they were subsequently rebuilt by Alhamar, the first Nasrid king. Suburban Park Suburban Park HOW TO GET THERE with the MA-222. This is a very windy road leading to Archidona and is known as the "La Carretera del Molinillo" (the Mill Road). . . The ocellated lizard can easily be observed here, while other reptiles like the ladder snake and the Iberian worm lizard can also be found, though they are less abundant. Bird-life also abounds in the area and species include the booted eagle, the Bonelli's eagle, the shorttoed eagle, the cuckoo, the woodpigeon, the críalo (Clamatus glandarius), the robin, the common blackbird, the common little owl, the Eurasian eagle owl and the red partridge. Sierra de Gracia Sierra de Gracia The amphibians are represented here by various rather abundant species such as the common frog and common toad as well as, to a lesser extent, the natterjack toad, the Iberian ribbed newt, the Iberian painted frog and the marbled newt. 165 TOURIST BOARD & The third walled enclosure here is commonly known as El Aljibe (the Cistern), due to the fact that below its terraces are tanks into which rainwater was funnelled - via the openings in its vaults - and stored for public consumption. La Villa Alta is another interesting sight for visitors. Between the second walled enclosure and the castle, the houses of the Villa Alta (High Villa) of the city were located. El Alminar (the Minaret) is certainly of great beauty. The inside of this tower has conserved its original minaret structure. In the 18th century its height was increased by several metres, while the terrace and guardrail that once capped the tower were replaced by the current roofing in the late 1980s. The highlight of this tour is, however, the Mezquita-Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Gracia (Nuestra Señora de Gracia Mosque-Shrine), which dates from the 9th century. After conquest by the Christians, the ancient mosque of the Moorish city served as a base for the construction of this Christian church dedicated to the patron of Archidona, La Virgen de Gracia. It has the unique distinction of being the only mosque which has been conserved in the province of Málaga. another and oriented towards the east constitute the remains of the mosque, while the other three naves - perpendicular to the first ones - were added in the 17th century to enlarge the building upon its reconversion to the Christian religion. This annex changed the orientation of the building to the north. CONVENTION BUREAU The second point of interest is La Puerta del Sol (the Sun Gate); it was restored in the early 1970s. Halfway between the neighbourhood of Camino del Santuario and the Sanctuary itself, the Capilla del Santo Cristo (Santo Cristo Chapel) is found. Dating from the 18th century, its chapel and courtyards were restored and renovated in 1997. One of the only walking trails in Sierra de Gracia starts from here and descends until reaching the town. The Sanctuary complex was remodelled in the 18th century in accordance with the architectural style which involved combining red brick and white, lime masonry, and which produced such beautiful results in the Plaza Ochavada. Sierra de Gracia Sierra de Gracia Two quite distinct parts of the building can be identified: the first three naves - parallel to one Suburban Park Suburban Park . . . . 166 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 167 TOURIST BOARD & Sierra de Gracia Sierra de Gracia CONVENTION BUREAU SIERRA DE GRACIA SUBURBAN PARK . . Beginning of route Suburban Park . . 168 Suburban Park End of route Suggested route Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 169 TOURIST BOARD & Situated to the south-east of the town of Antequera - quite near the town centre - Pinar del Hacho (El Hacho Pine Grove) Suburban Park covers an area of 85 hectares of protected land, populated for the most part by a forest of replanted stone pine of about 40 years of age. This suburban park has been used by the residents of Antequera as an area of relaxation for many years, even before the lands passed from private hands into the hands of the town council. Pinar del Hacho is, however, currently closed to the public until some improvements can be made on the grounds. FLORA The maritime pine - or stone pine - dominates the flora of this protected natural space, although shrubland and pastureland also play an important role here depending on the biogeographical location. FAUNA Suburban Park When leaving from Málaga, you must take highway N-331 (A-45) towards Antequera. Upon reaching the Antequera plain, you should take the . . 170 Suburban Park HOW TO GET THERE . The fauna in the Pinar del Hacho includes 59 different species of birds, 14 mammal species, eight reptile species, and two amphibian species, along with many other invertebrate species. The forest fauna is predominately made up of the animal communities characteristic of Mediterranean low-mountain coniferous woodlands while ruderal and anthropogenic communities are also present, due to the park's proximity to the town centre of Antequera. . Pinar del Hacho The location of the gate and the absence of matacán (platforms with holes for pouring boiling oil) and other defensive elements indicate that this tower was used exclusively for signalling purposes. Its placement affords a wide view of the surrounding area: El Peñón de los Enamorados (The Lovers Rock), Antequera and the Antequera plain are all visible from the tower, along with El Torcal, on the other side. The Sierra de las Chimeneas and the Sierra de las Cabras can also be seen from the park. Pinar del Hacho A walk along the pathways of Pinar del Hacho does not simply mean losing yourself in a natural hideaway where peace and tranquillity reign; a walk through this protected natural space also means being transported back through history and contemplating archaeological sites like La Torre del Hacho (Hacho Tower) and El Arquillo de los Porqueros (Los Porqueros Arch), found here. Crowning this suburban park is La Torre del Hacho. It was built in the 8th century on a circular floor-plan and was meant to guard the unprotected south-eastern flank of Antequera's citadel. Its raising must have been carried out under a project to renovate the walls of the citadel itself after the Christian conquest of Seville in 1248 - at which time "Antaquira" found itself on the border between the Kingdom of Castile and the Kingdom of Granada. CONVENTION BUREAU PINAR DEL HACHO SUBURBAN PARK Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 171 TOURIST BOARD & Suburban Park Another possible entranceway is accessed from Avenida de La Legión in Antequera. It is located on the right after coming to the traffic signal at the . . . Suburban Park . Just over one kilometre from the Venta del Mirador inn (A-343), you will see a sign to the right indicating the road to El Valle de Abdalajís. You should take this highway and after about 500 metres - at Kilometre 10 of the A-343 - you will see a large green fence on your right which indicates the entranceway to Pinar del Hacho. end of this street. This route, however, makes touring Pinar del Hacho more complicated and we recommended you use the first entrance. Bear in mind that the Antequera Town Council is currently maintaining this natural space closed to public use until some improvement projects can be implemented, as previously mentioned. Pinar del Hacho Pinar del Hacho CONVENTION BUREAU turn-off onto the A-354; you will come to the town centre of Antequera after two kilometres on this road. Once in Antequera, you should find La Puerta de Estepa (Estepa Gate), where you will see signs indicating the way to El Valle de Abdalajís (Abdalajís Valley). 172 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 173 TOURIST BOARD & Beginning of route End of route Pinar del Hacho Pinar del Hacho Suggested route 1 Suggested route 2 Suburban Park Suburban Park . . . . 174 CONVENTION BUREAU PINAR DEL HACHO SUBURBAN PARK Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 175 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU FLORA Although the majority of the area of the mountain is covered by a replanted pine forest consisting mostly of stone pine, with scattered Holm oaks and black pines, some Holm oak specimens of great value have been conserved in Dehesa del Mercadillo. These are very old trees - some of which are dying - and they constitute a fundamental refuge for forest wildlife. DEHESA DEL MERCADILLO SUBURBAN PARK Dehesa del Mercadillo . Suburban Park . When beginning your trip from the city of Málaga, you should take the A-357 towards Teba. Before getting to Teba you will come across a turn-off on the left which indicates the way to Ronda and which connects with the A-367 Campillos-Ronda highway. Once you have reached Ronda, you can access this natural space from two different points: the Ronda bypass road near the neighbourhood of La Dehesa or the RondaSeville highway. We recommend the first option. index www.visitcostadelsol.com . Málaga, Sun and Nature HOW TO GET THERE Suburban Park 176 Wildlife found here includes foxes and badgers, while, with respect to the bird-life, small birds like finches, serins, greenfinches, crossbills, European goldfinches, great spotted woodpeckers, short-toed treecreepers, rock sparrows, hoopoes, green woodpeckers, robins, and blackbirds can all be observed here. If you look up to the sky, you may see booted eagles, little owls, tawny owls, and griffon vultures soaring above. . The network of livestock trails that merge in the area - which includes the Cañada Real de Setenil (Setenil Royal Livestock Trail), Cordel de Ronda a Olvera (Rondel to Olvera Line), Vereda al Molino de la Fuente (Trail to Molina de la Fuente) and Cañada Real de Ronda a Jerez y Seville (Royal Livestock Trail from Ronda to Jerez and Seville) - facilitates access to the park and - at the same time - contributes to its use for sports, recreation, education and livestock purposes. The Llano de la Cruz road also crosses the area. FAUNA Dehesa del Mercadillo Dehesa del Mercadillo (The Market Pasture) Suburban Park is found right in the city of Ronda itself, on the mountain of the same name and beside the neighbourhood of La Dehesa. Declared a protected natural space in the year 2000, the park covers a total of 137.77 hectares. It takes its name from a livestock market that was once held here - an ideal location given its proximity to the city centre and the fact that several livestock trails come together here. A small forest of Portuguese oaks can also be found in the park while the shrubland here is made up mainly of scorpion's thorn, Spanish broom, rock rose, hawthorn and some aromatic plants such as thyme, rosemary and marjoram. Málaga, Sun and Nature 177 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU The installations found at Dehesa del Mercadillo Suburban Park are somewhat run down and it only has two recreational areas. One of these features swings, benches and barbecues while the other only has barbecues. These areas are favoured by locals and visitors alike when they wish to spend a relaxing day and enjoy the surrounding nature. If you want to get a little exercise in the park, you will find several trails where you can go trekking, running, or mountain-biking. These are small paths which have been set up by the sports enthusiasts themselves and can be used either for running or cycling. Dehesa del Mercadillo Dehesa del Mercadillo The "Punto Limpio" (area with waste and recycling receptacles) is also found near Dehesa del Mercadillo and the city's parade of stallions takes place annually in the park. The horses involved in the parade are lent to the locals by the Army and the origins of this tradition appear to date back to the time of Spain's War of Independence. The parade of State stallions takes place in the Dehesa del Mercadillo equestrian centre, in El Llano de la Cruz. State stallions from Jerez are bred with a couple of hundred of mares from the Natural County of Ronda each year here, with an aim to improve the horse breed. Suburban Park . Suburban Park . Anyone on a visit to this park certainly cannot help but appreciate the views here. On one side are the mountains of Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, including El Hacho de Montejaque, El Peñón de Mures (Mures Rock), La Ventana (the Window), Palo, San Cristóbal and El Torrejón; while from other points in the park visitors can marvel at the view of La Olla del Tajo de Ronda (The Whirlpool of the Ronda Gorge). . . 178 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com M Málaga, Sun and Nature 179 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU DEHESA DEL MERCADILLO SUBURBAN PARK Beginning of route End of route Dehesa del Mercadillo Dehesa del Mercadillo Suggested route 1 Suggested route 2 Suburban Park Suburban Park . . . . 180 Málaga, Sun and Nature index www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun and Nature 181 espacios_naturales_interior_ingles.qxp 07/10/2008 10:56 PÆgina 182 www.visitcostadelsol.com 182