Florence
Transcription
Florence
florence AGENZIA PER IL TURISMO FIRENZE florence The early Etruscan settlements sprang up on the hill of Fiesole, while the Romans established themselves (in 59 BC) on the plain around the Arno. The Forum of Roman Florentia was situated where Piazza della Republica stands today, and the inner circle of walls ran along today’s Via Tornabuoni, Via Cerretani and Via del Proconsolo. Miniato and Reparata were the first patron saints of Florence, which became an episcopal see in the 4th century. The city was granted the right to independent government by Countess Matilde, thus paving the way for its subsequent economic supremacy as a Guelph city with strong papal ties, in competition first with Fiesole and then with Siena and Pisa. Guelphs and Ghibellines, Bianchi and Neri, nobles, the bourgeois and trading classes all vied for power in Florence, leading to social unrest and strife, conquests, alliances and even to requests by the comune for foreign intervention. After the establishment of a people’s government of sorts and the conquest of Pisa, Florence achieved dominion over the whole of Tuscany, with the exception of Siena and Lucca. The year 1434 marked the beginning of Medici rule, which became the central point of the city’s political and cultural development. By virtue of its geographic position and social climate, Florence exercised a function of equilibrium in the history and art of the period known as the Renaissance. After various vicissitudes involving the Florentine Republic and Medici restorations, another historic era started for Florence in 1530 with the establishment of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. The power of the city grew, reaching a peak with the defeat of arch-rival Siena in 1555. The House of the Medici died out in the 18th century, giving way to the rule of the Habsburg-Lorraine, under whom Florence also conquered Lucca (1847). Finally, the Duchy entered the Kingdom of Italy in 1859 following a plebiscite. Florence was the capital of unified Italy from 1865 to 1870, during which time Giuseppe Poggi produced an urban planning project that deeply modified the appearance of the city and involved the pulling down of the city walls. The beginning of the 20th century was also marked by the start of industrial development in the city, which meshed with the existing craft businesses in an original way, leading to the creation of a multitude of family-run enterprises. The post-war period, with the reconstruction of what had been destroyed and the expansion of the city until it joined up with other nearby centres (Scandicci, Sesto, Bagno a Ripoli) is contemporary history. Today, Florence does not just live on its glorious civic and cultural past. It is also an important centre for craft and commercial, industrial and artistic activities. a brief history Florence can boast many histories – artistic, financial, religious, cultural, political. These are so rich that it is impossible to sum them up in a few short lines. One word, however, has always distinguished the city in the eyes of the world: the Renaissance. florence city centre villa petraia villa di castello VISITING THE CITY: ITINERARIES Two days in Florence 6 10 Longer stays in Florence 14 One day in Florence Thematic itineraries in Florence florence city centre s.s.annunziata stazione centrale s. maria novella 22 Ideas for visiting the surrounding area 24 Visiting the city independently 26 Museums 27 Guided tours of the city 28 s.lorenzo battistero s.giovanni Information offices 30 palazzo strozzi Protecting the rights of tourists 31 Getting around in the city 32 Getting around in the surrounding area 34 Health information 36 Post offices, banks and bureau de change 38 cappelle medicee le cascine Public lavatories chiesa del carmine Florence for children Food and drink Shopping Arts and crafts Nightlife 42 46 50 54 56 58 campanile di giotto pont palazzo pitti giardino di boboli porta romana museo dell’opera del duomo museo di antropologia museo del bargello porta beccaria s.croce museo horne s.spirito 40 41 museo archeologico spedale degli innocenti duomo s.maria del fiore orsanmichele palazzo vecchio loggia dei lanzi galleria degli uffizi porta s.frediano CITY LIFE Major events palazzo medici riccardi s.maria novella CITY SERVICES villa il ventaglio galleria dell’accademia Parks and gardens in Florence Internet points orto botanico s.marco porta a prato 18 villa gamberaia stibbert e ve giardino bardini cchio museo bardini fiu m e ar no porta s.niccolò forte belvedere piazzale michelangelo s.miniato one day in florence s. maria del fiore giotto’s campanile 1 baptistery palazzo della signoria 2 loggia dei lanzi 1 orsanmichele 3 3 uffizi gallery ponte vecchio 4 palazzo pitti 5 boboli gardens 4 6 s. spirito 6 5 2 one day in florence One day in Florence: the city deserves a little longer than that, but a one-day visit will at least give you an idea. With just one day at your disposal, you will want to see the main sites and walk around the heart of the historic city centre. atory of San Michele. It became a place of worship due to the munificence of the trade guilds which, between the 14th and the 16th centuries, adorned it with sculptures and paintings of the highest standard. There are sculptural works by Donatello, Verrocchio, Ghiberti and Nanni di Banco, amongst others. At the far end of Via dei Calzaiuoli you come to Piazza della Signoria, the political heart of the city. PALAZZO DELLA SIGNORIA, or Palazzo Vecchio, which is the seat of Florence City Council besides housing a museum, was Start from Piazza del Duomo, where the Baptistery and the cathedral of SANTA MARIA DEL FIORE face each other. The cathedral was begun by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1296, but it was not until 1436 that it was crowned by the Cupola, Filippo Brunelleschi’s masterpiece. The dome is the symbol of Florence, a bold and majestic piece of architecture that affords fantastic views of the city (and of the cathedral interior). On the façade side of the cathedral is the boldly coloured campanile of Giotto, which also has fine views of the city. In front of the Cathedral stands the older, Romanesque-style BAPTISTERY of San Giovanni, embellished with bronze doors by Ghiberti and Andrea Pisano. Walking along the lively Via dei Calzaiuoli, you will pass by ORSANMICHELE, a 14th-century building that started out life as a granary situated on the site of the ancient or- terior courtyard, you can admire a putto-decorated fountain 7 by Verrocchio and frescoes by Vasari. Also in the piazza is the BRIEF ITINERARIES 14th-century LOGGIA DEI LANZI, which displays famous statues such as Benvenuto Cellini’s Perseus and Giambologna’s Rape of the Sabines. Adjoining Palazzo Vecchio is the imposing UFFIZI .it o m firenzeturis . w BRIEF ITINERARIES built at the end of the 13th century. As you walk into the in- GALLERY. Designed by Vasari in the 16th century as the Medici secretariat, it is now one of the most important museums in the world. The gallery contains paintings ranging from early masters (Cimabue, Giotto) through to Mannerism, with a splendidly repre- sentative selection of Renaissance art by the likes of Botticelli, Filippo Lippi, Paolo Uccello, Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo. ww 6 one day in florence A visit to the gallery requires sever- where you can soak up the lively atmosphere of this corner al hours. If you do not have time, of the city. The neighbourhood is packed with craft trades, continue on foot towards PONTE and has a very authentic feel to it. Piazza Santo Spirito, one VECCHIO, another symbol of of the few piazzas in the city with trees in it, is overlooked by the city, which has survived beautiful palazzos and by the church of Santo Spirito, which wars and flooding. Since the was designed by Filippo Brunelleschi in 1444. Besides the 16th century, the buildings pure architectural lines of the façade, the church also boasts on the bridge have been oc- a number of important artworks. cupied by goldsmiths. BRIEF ITINERARIES Crossing the bridge, you find yourself di là d’Arno, that is, ‘beyond the Arno’, an important notion in Florence. Of the four historic neighbourhoods, three (San Giovanni, Santa Maria Novella and Santa Croce) are north of the river, while just one, Santo Spirito, is on the left bank. The main thoroughfare continuing on from Ponte Vecchio will bring you to Piazza Pitti, which is dominated by the turismo.it e z n e fir www. 8 façade of the majestic PALAZZO PITTI. Of 15th-century origin, it was acquired by Eleonora, the wife of Cosimo I, and became the new residence of the Medici family, who had previously been in Palazzo della Signoria. It was enlarged and embellished with a magnificent park, the Boboli Gardens. Palazzo Pitti houses a cluster of different museums, one of which are the gardens themselves. If you still have some time, head towards Piazza Santo Spirito, The double-vaulted dome of the Baptistery was studied carefully by Filippo Brunelleschi before he erected the Cupola of Santa Maria del Fiore. 9 BRIEF ITINERARIES two days in florence train station 1 s. maria novella 2 6 1 5 palazzo strozzi 3 palazzo medici riccardi 4 s. lorenzo laurentian library 5 medici chapels 4 7 2 3 museo s. marco accademia gallery 6 spedale degli innocenti church of 7 s.s. annunziata archaeology museum two days in florence If you have two days to visit Florence, you can obviously cover more. This itinerary can be used for one day as well, to see something different or if you have already been in the city for a while. ful rooms are used for art exhibitions, and it has a large internal courtyard that is always open. Continuing on towards Piazza della Repubblica you arrive in what was the heart of the city in Roman times. The modernday piazza was laid out in the 19th century. If you walk along to and across Piazza Duomo, you will find yourself in Via run into another large Renaissance building, PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI. 10 BRIEF ITINERARIES ismo.it nzetur e r i w.f w w Martelli. After about a hundred metres you will This was designed by Michelozzo for Situated not far from the RAILWAY STATION of Santa Maria Novella, a masterpiece of early 20th-century rationalist architecture, is the basilica that gave the station its name: SANTA MARIA NOVELLA, a 13th-century church of the Dominican order. It has an elegant façade in green and white marble, and a beautiful Gothic interior with a wealth of frescoes and some masterpieces of Renaissance art. Adjoining the church is the Cosimo il Vecchio de’ Medici towards the middle of the 15th century. Indeed, the whole neighbourhood was shaped by the Medici family. The Palazzo, the seat of the Province of Florence, is also a museum with some magnificent reception rooms and a splendid Chapel frescoed by Benozzo Gozzoli. If you are short on time you can just Museum of the same name. Narrow, atmospheric alleyways lead to Via Tornabuoni, the city’s most elegant street, backing onto which is the imposing bulk of PALAZZO STROZZI. Built by Benedetto da Maiano to a commission by Filippo Strozzi, it is one of the most important Renaissance buildings in Florence. Some of the Palazzo’s beauti- wander in and take a look at the courtyard, or walk through the recently opened Galleria dei Medici, which brings you out into Via Ginori. From here you can head towards two other sites associated with the Palazzo: the nearby church of San Lorenzo and the convent of San Marco. SAN LORENZO was the church of the Medici family. Its current layout, a sublime example of Renaissance architecture, was designed by Filippo Brunelleschi. two days in florence The façade was never completed, while the interior houses a Santissima Annunziata, which is surrounded by porticoes number of fine paintings. Around the church are various oth- and buildings, the most important of which is the SPEDALE er significant attractions, including the Laurentian Library, DEGLI INNOCENTI, designed by Filippo Brunelleschi. the Old Sacristy and the Medici Chapels, with the New Sac- The Spedale was established as a foundling hospital as early risty, one of Michelangelo’s masterpieces. In the streets sur- as 1440, and houses a museum and other very interesting rounding the church is a colourful open-air market. areas. The BASILICA OF SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIATA dates back to Popular with tourists, it sells clothing and the middle of the 13th century and was built for the Order of accessories. Returning to Palazzo Medici the Servants of Mary. Inside there are frescoes by Andrea del and walking along Via Cavour you will Sarto, Franciabigio, Pontormo and Rosso Fiorentino. come to the piazza with the CHURCH To the left of the church, on the corner with Via Capponi, is OF SAN MARCO and the adjoining the entrance to the ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM, which contains 13 convent. The convent of San Marco, extremely significant Etruscan, Roman and above all Egypt- BRIEF ITINERARIES belonging to the Dominicans of ian collections. When visiting the museum, be sure to go Fiesole, was one the city’s major centres for intellectual pur- out into the beautiful garden, where a number suits. Cosimo il Vecchio invested heavily to enlarge and em- of Etruscan tombs have been reconstructed. bellish it. The Museum of San Marco, which is housed in the convent, contains a series of Renaissance frescoes by Beato A stone’s throw from Piazza San Marco is the ACCADEMIA GALLERY, one of Florence’s most visited museums because it houses Michelangelo’s celebrated David. However, the museum also displays other interesting sculptures by the same artist and a rich collection of Tuscan paintings from the 13th to the 16th century. From the Gallery it is just a short walk to the harmonious Piazza The statue of David, a symbol of courage and victory for Florence, was sculpted by Michelangelo when he was just 26 years old. zeturismo www. fir Angelico; the fabulous library was the work of Michelozzo. en .it longer stays in florence longer stays in florence If you are in Florence for a longer stay, or have visited the city before, the following are some further places of interest you may wish to explore. museo dell’opera del duomo 1 museum of natural history bargello national 2 museum 1 church of s. croce pazzi chapel 3 2 horne museum 4 bardini museum 5 3 4 9 fort belvedere 6 6 8 7 piazzale michelangelo 8 to be moved elsewhere). Then, walking along narrow streets that retrace the perimeter of an ancient Roman amphitheatre, you arrive at the broad expanse of Piazza Santa Croce. The Franciscan BASILICA OF SANTA CROCE, which was erected between the end of the 13th and during the 14th century, is well worth a visit. The façade is 19th century, but the interior, 5 s. miniato al monte 7 the Baroque building that houses the city’s court house (due which is Gothic, is memorable for the frescoes of Giotto and for the tombs of some of Italy’s most illustrious figures, in- s. maria del carmine 9 cluding Ugo Foscolo, Galileo Galilei, Michelangelo and BRIEF ITINERARIES Gioacchino Rossini. Besides the church, you can also visit At the rear of Piazza del Duomo is the MUSEO DELL’OPERA DEL the Museo dell’Opera with Brunelleschi’s elegant Pazzi DUOMO, which houses all the works from the Cathedral, such Chapel. as parts of the original façade or sculptures produced for it, If you walk along Via de’ Benci towards the including a wooden Mary Magdalene by Donatello and a Pietà Arno, you will come, on your left, to a by Michelangelo. Renaissance palazzo occupied by the Walking along Via del Proconsolo you come to Palazzo Non- HORNE MUSEUM. This features finito, an incomplete (hence the name) work by Buontalenti. paintings, furniture and other Inside is the interesting ANTHROPOLOGY SECTION OF THE MUSE- items that recreate the appear- UM OF NATURAL HISTORY. A little further on is the 13th-centu- ance of a noble 15th-century ry Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, a severe-looking building home. On the other side of the where executions were once held. Arno (cross over on the Ponte It is now occupied by the BARGELLO NATIONAL MUSEUM, which alle Grazie) stands the BARDINI MUSEUM, the former home of holds some of the most important works www.fi ren 14 mo.it s i r tu e z an antiquarian who built up a large collection of art works. of Italian Renaissance sculpture (Do- Walking up the steep but atmospheric Costa Scarpuccia and natello, Ghiberti, Michelangelo, Costa San Giorgio you will come to one of Florence’s most Cellini, Giambologna). spectacular sites: FORT BELVEDERE. Designed by Buontalenti Close by is Piazza San Firenze, with in the last decade of the 16th century, it is a fortified villa in a longer stays in florence raised position that offers one of the best views of the city. The fort houses the Della Ragione Collection, featuring paintings by some of the great masters of the 20th century. o.it ism A beautiful stroll in the shade of the trees lining the Viale w.firenzet w w ur dei Colli will bring you to the Romanesque BASILICA OF SAN MINIATO AL MONTE. The green and white marble façade is typically Florentine, and the geometric patterns can also be found in the well-lit interior. The piazza in front of the church offers fine views, as does the nearby Piazzale Michelangelo, which is a great favourite with tourists. 16 BRIEF ITINERARIES 17 The piazzale stands above the historic neighbourhood of the Oltrarno. Walking back down towards the river, the tour of this BRIEF ITINERARIES part of the city can be rounded off by visiting the complex of SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE. In the Brancacci Chapel there are fine frescoes by Masaccio, Masolino and Filippino Lippi. The first coat of arms of Florence was a white lily (Florentine iris) against a red ground. In 1251, following the conflict between the Guelphs and Ghibellines, the colours were inverted so the lily was red and the background white. thematic itineraries in florence Want to follow a particular thread or theme as you tour the city? Here are a few suggested ideas. thematic itineraries in florence GREAT GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE In Florence the Gothic period coincided with the peak of the city’s wealth and economic prosperity. In architectural and urban development terms, this was reflected in the building of the last circle of city walls and of imposing basilicas, expressions of the establishment and growing influence of the THE CITY IN THE MIDDLE AGES mendicant orders in the social fabric of the city. This itinerary takes in the most significant buildings of the medieval period, when the city skyline was dominated by 18 VISITING THE CITY . BASILICA OF SANTA MARIA NOVELLA . BASILICA OF SANTA CROCE towers and the first important public buildings and the . CHURCH OF SANTA TRINITA large basilicas were built. . CATHEDRAL OF SANTA MARIA DEL FIORE . PALAZZO VECCHIO . PALAZZO DEL BARGELLO (HOME TO THE BARGELLO NATIONAL MUSEUM) . PALAZZO SPINI FERONI (PIAZZA SANTA TRINITA) . PONTE VECCHIO . TOWER HOUSES - PIAZZA SANTA ELISABETTA (HOTEL BRUNELLESCHI), PIAZZA DAVANZATI, PIAZZA SALVEMINI, BORGO SAN JACOPO . BAPTISTERY OF SAN GIOVANNI . BASILICA OF SAN MINIATO . CHURCH OF THE SANTI APOSTOLI (PIAZZA DEL LIMBO) THE CITY IN THE RENAISSANCE: THE GRAND PALAZZOS There are various Renaissance palazzos in the historic city centre. Although many of them are not open to the public, they are still interesting from the outside. They are named after those who commissioned them, often from very famous architects, to serve as family residences. . PALAZZO DAVANZATI (VIA PORTA ROSSA) . PALAZZO RUCELLAI (VIA DELLA VIGNA NUOVA) . PALAZZO STROZZI . PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI . PALAZZO ANTINORI (PIAZZA ANTINORI) . PALAZZO COCCHI SERRISTORI (PIAZZA SANTA CROCE) . PALAZZO BARTOLINI SALIMBENI (PIAZZA SANTA TRINITA) 19 thematic itineraries in florence thematic itineraries in florence THE CITY IN THE 17TH CENTURY CONTEMPORARY ART Although Florence is not particularly associated with the In Florence there are a number of fine buildings associated Baroque, there are a number of fine examples of this im- with the Italian rationalist movement that was active be- portant period, and it is worth exploring the city with this in tween the wars, and other works, mainly public, designed mind, if you have the time or if you are making a return visit. by important post-war architects. . CHURCH OF SAN GAETANO (PIAZZA ANTINORI) . COMPLEX OF SAN FIRENZE (PIAZZA SAN FIRENZE) . PALAZZO CORSINI (LUNGARNO CORSINI) . PALAZZO DELL’ANTELLA (PIAZZA SANTA CROCE) . SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIATA . CHURCH OF SAN GIOVANNI BATTISTA (AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE) . TRAIN STATION OF SANTA MARIA NOVELLA . ARTEMIO FRANCHI FOOTBALL STADIUM . MARINO MARINI MUSEUM . AERONAUTICAL SCHOOL (PARK OF THE CASCINE) LIBERTY AND ECLECTICISM IN THE CITY A number of significant examples of eclectic and Libertythe 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. . HOTEL EXCELSIOR (PIAZZA OGNISSANTI 3) . CINEMA ODEON (VIA SASSETTI 1) . PORTICOES OF VIA PELLICCERIA . VILLINO UZIELLI (PIAZZA D’AZEGLIO 38) . VILLINO BROGGI CARACENI (VIA SCIPIONE AMMIRATO 98) . VILLINO RAVAZZINI (VIA SCIPIONE AMMIRATO 101) . CASA GALLERIA (BORGOGNISSANTI) . VILLA STIBBERT . VILLINI LAMPREDI (VIA VILLANI 9, 13) www.firenzeturismo.it www.firenzeturismo.it style architecture were built in Florence between the end of www.firenzeturismo.it VISITING THE CITY parks and gardens in florence 6 8 boboli gardens 1 4 7 fort belvedere 2 bardini gardens 3 parks and gardens in florence 5 botanical garden 4 park of the cascine 5 stibbert museum 6 park of villa il ventaglio 7 villa gamberaia 8 3 2 1 Exploring Florence through its parks and gardens is an unusual but worthwhile experience. This is because the city’s historic gardens are closely associated with palazzos and architectural styles, and with the noble families that created them. Opened to the public in 1791, and enlarged and modified various times since then, it is an ideal place to go running, skating, cycling or simply for a walk. Remaining in the city, but moving out from the city centre, a number of other gardens and parks can be recommended. For example, there is the English-style park of the STIBBERT MUSEUM, its romantic taste reflected in a small lake with a small neo-Egyptian temple on its banks, and the 22 VISITING THE CITY ruins of a Gothic Venetian courtyard in white marble. In the centre of Florence, the BOBOLI GARDENS, a magnificently grandiose example of an Italian-style garden with ancient The PARK OF VILLA IL VENTAGLIO, laid statues and fountains, offers some extraordinary views of the out in the mid 19th century on the city. At the top end of the garden, a gate gives access to the lower slopes of the hill leading up to bastions of FORT BELVEDERE, and a short Fiesole, and which has a lake crossed walk will bring you to the recently re- by a small bridge, also reflects the style of opened BARDINI GARDENS, which over- parks in that period. look the Arno. Finally, if you head in the direction of Settignano, situated on The BOTANICAL GARDEN or Giardino dei a hill a short distance from Fiesole, you come to VILLA GAM- Semplici is a university museum, but BERAIA. Its belvedere, marked by cypress has ancient origins. It is a haven for a host trees shaped into arches, produces a of plant varieties (kept in the open-air and under glass), with stage effect akin to an 18th-century ancient trees such as Taxus baccata and a cork oak. In spring ‘green theatre’, offering splendidly at- the azalea blossom offers a riot of colour. mospheric views of the Florentine Near to the city centre is the large PARK OF THE CASCINE. countryside. 23 VISITING THE CITY ideas for visiting the surrounding area ideas for visiting the surrounding area FIESOLE ARCHAEOLOGICAL AREA CERTOSA MEDICI VILLAS FIESOLE ARCHAEOLOGICAL AREA CERTOSA MEDICI VILLAS FIESOLE ARCHA EOLOGICAL AREA CERTOSA MEDICI VILLAS FIESOLE ARCHAEOLOGICAL AREA CERTOSA MEDICI VILLAS FIESOLE ARCHAEOLOGICAL AREA Why not venture out from the city centre? You do not need to go far to discover interesting new places and unforgettable views. South of the city centre, not far from Galluzzo, stands the CERTOSA. Of 14th-century origin, it has an austere fortresslike appearance and is still occupied by Cistercian monks. Visitors can see the monumental quarters of the convent and 24 VISITING THE CITY FIESOLE is very close to the city but has a distinct character of its own. It is situated in a splendidly panoramic position on the hill overlooking Florence. Unlike Florence, Fiesole is of Etruscan origin, and both Etr- the Pinacoteca, which houses important art works produced 25 over the centuries. VISITING THE CITY Other unmissable attractions in the local area include the MEDICI VILLAS between Florence and Sesto Fiorentino: VILLA LA uscan and Roman remains can be found in the extensive AR- PETRAIA and VILLA DI CASTELLO. The for- CHAEOLOGICAL AREA. Also of great historical value are the Ro- mer is dominated by a large tower and manesque cathedral of San Romolo, with its characteristic surrounded by an Italian-style terrace tower-shaped campanile, Palazzo Vescovile, founded in the garden. To the rear of the villa, there is a 11th and rebuilt in the 17th century, and the ancient church large romantic park added in the 19th century. After the of Santa Maria Primerana, which was built over an earlier Etr- Medici, the villa was also used as a residence by the House uscan construction. One good idea for a stroll is to head in of Savoy in the period when Florence was the capital of uni- the direction of the ancient acropolis, where you will find the fied Italy. A pleasant walk leads to Villa di Castello, which has basilica of Sant’Alessandro (exhibitions are held here), and a beautiful Italian garden with citrus fruits and numerous rare the church, convent and Missionary Museum of San plant varieties. The garden is also worth seeing for the Grot- Francesco. The beautiful surrounding scenery makes Fiesole ta degli Animali, something of a marvel in the Medici period a popular area for walking, with paths heading towards with its ingenious water effects. The imposing villa is home Monte Ceceri and the Caldine. to the prestigious Accademia della Crusca. visiting the city independently If you want to visit Florence and explore its rich artistic and museum heritage on your own, we would advise you to drop in at an information office to pick up an updated list detailing opening times and ticket prices. Alternatively, you can visit the APT’s website at: www.firenzeturismo.it . Opening times change quite frequently, also in relation to the time of year, and ticket prices may vary if there is an exhibition on at the museum. At the offices of the Florence Tourism Board you can also purchase a copy of the Guide to museums in the city and province, a useful aid in planning what to see. 26 VISITING THE CITY As this guide goes to press, Florence still does not have a tourist card granting admission to a range of museums. However, it is possible to purchase inclusive tickets covering certain museums, and to book admission to the more popular museums in advance. This will enable you to avoid queues, which, especially in spring and summer, is something to be borne in mind. Admission to state-run museums can be booked through Firenze Musei, tel. 055 294883 (for school parties: tel. 055 290112) www.firenzemusei.it . There is a booking fee of € 3 or € 4, depending on the museum, for each ticket, irrespective of the type (full, concession, free). Admission to state-run museums is free for everyone under 18 and over 65. There are reductions on admission tickets to museums run by Florence City Council for children aged 3 to 17, for young people aged 18 to 25, and for anyone over 65 years of age. Other museums in the city are managed by public and private bodies or associations. Some of the city’s historic gardens, for instance the Boboli and the Bardini Gardens, also charge an admission fee. visiting the city independently There are more than ninety museums in Florence. The following is a selection: STATE-RUN MUSEUMS . Museum of the Medici Chapels . Cenacles (frescoed refectories) of Ognissanti, Santa Apollonia, San Salvi, Fuligno . Chiostro dello Scalzo . Museums of Palazzo Pitti (Palatine Gallery; Gallery of Modern Art; Silver Museum; Porcelain Museum; Costume Gallery; Boboli Gardens) . Uffizi Gallery . Accademia Gallery . Archaeology Museum . Bargello National Museum . Davanzati Museum . Museum of the Opificio delle Pietre Dure . Museum of San Marco COUNCIL-RUN MUSEUMS . Palazzo Vecchio (Monumental Apartments and Children’s Museum) . Brancacci Chapel . Fondazione Romano in the Cenacle of Santo Spirito . Bardini Museum . Museum of Santa Maria Novella . Museo di Firenze com’era . Alberto Della Ragione Collection MUSEUMS RUN BY OTHER BODIES . Palazzo Medici Riccardi . Horne Museum . Museo dell’Opera del Duomo . Casa Buonarroti . Casa di Dante . Museo dell’Opera di Santa Croce . Galleria dello Spedale degli Innocenti . University Museum of Natural History . Galileo Museum . Marino Marini Museum 27 guided tours of the city One way of getting to know Florence better is to go on a guided tour of the city and its major attractions. There are tours practically every day, at different times and in various languages. It is advisable to turn up 10-15 minutes before the tour is due to start. BY BUS 28 VISITING THE CITY morning tour (generally includes Piazzale Michelangelo, Accademia Gallery or Bargello National Museum or Medici Chapels, Cathedral) afternoon tour (generally includes Piazza Santa Croce, Piazza della Signoria, Uffizi Gallery or Palazzo Vecchio, Fiesole) . Caf Tours tel. 055 283200, www.caftours.com, Departure point: Piazza Stazione (on the corner with Piazza dell’Unità) panoramic tour (morning and afternoon, with audio guide) . Caf Tours tel. 055 283200, www.caftours.com, Departure point: Piazza Stazione (on the corner with Piazza dell’Unità) tourist bus (Line A: Piazza Stazione; Line B: Porta San Frediano) city sightseeing red two-storey bus which goes all round the city; you can get on and off at the various stops; tel. 055 290451 www.firenze.city-sightseeing.it florence open tour a yellow two-storey bus; you can hop on and off at the 19 stops; tel. 348 8814984 www.opentour.it/florence guided tours of the city . Florapromotuscany tel. 055 210301, www.florapromotuscany.com Departure point: Piazza della Repubblica, c/o Caffè Giubbe Rosse . Florence Town tel. 055 0123994-800736755, www.florencetown.com Departure point: Piazza della Repubblica, c/o Caffè Gilli (on Tuesday, from Caffè Paskowsky) . Solo Italia Tours tel. 055 213355 www.mercurio-italy.org, Departure point: Ponte Vecchio (arches) . The Original & Best Walking Tours of Florence, tel. 055 2645033, www.artviva.italy.com, Departure point: agency office in Via Sassetti 1 . TuscanyAll tel. 055 713655, www.myflorencetours.com, Departure point: Piazza della Repubblica, c/o Caffè Giubbe Rosse From 15 March to 15 November the agency Florapromotuscany also offers guided walking tours with guaranteed departures (booking not necessary). Tours are in English, French or German. VISITING THE CITY BY TAXI AND MINIVAN (morning and afternoon) . Accord tel. 055 282825, www.accordsolutions.it, Departure point: Piazza della Repubblica (column). Departure from hotel can be arranged by prior request. BY BIKE (morning and afternoon) ON FOOT The following agencies run guided walking tours in the centre of Florence. The programme may include a visit to a museum or a major church, or may be devoted exclusively to one or more museums. There are tours in various foreign languages, besides Italian. Booking obligatory. . Caf Tours tel. 055 283200 www.caftours.com, Departure point: Piazza Stazione (on the corner with Piazza dell’Unità) 29 . Florapromotuscany tel. 055 210301, www.florapromotuscany.com, Departure point: Piazza Stazione . FlorenceTown tel. 055 0123994, www.florencetown.com, Departure point: Via de’ Lamberti 1 (corner with Via Calzaiuoli) BY SEGWAY (morning and afternoon) . Segway Renter Toscana tel. 055 2398855, www.segwayfirenze.com information offices protecting the rights of tourists The Florence Tourism Board (APT) and Florence City Council’s Tourism Department run five tourist information offices in the city. In these offices you will find informative materials in various languages and professional, well-informed staff who can give you accurate and helpful information about the attractions of the city and surrounding area, services, accommodation, transport and all the main cultural, sports and traditional events. In a city visited by millions of tourists each year, there is unfortunately always a chance of encountering a poor or unprofessional level of service. If the service is not up to scratch, the price is unclear, your booking has not been respected or you find yourself in some other unpleasant situation of this kind, you can make use of a number of mechanisms designed to protect your rights as a guest of the city. 31 30 CITY SERVICES information offices protecting the rights of tourists FLORENCE TOURISM BOARD Via Manzoni 16 50121 Florence tel. 055 23320 fax 055 2346286 www.firenzeturismo.it apt@firenzeturismo.it INFORMATION OFFICES Via Cavour 1r tel. 055 290832-3 fax 055 2760383 infoturismo@provincia.fi.it Via Manzoni 16 tel. 055 23320 fax 055 2346285 info@firenzeturismo.it “A. Vespucci” Airport tel. and fax 055 315874 infoaeroporto@aeroporto.firenze.it FLORENCE CITY COUNCIL i Borgo S.Croce 29r tel. 055 2340444 fax 055 2264524 turismo2@comune.fi.it Piazza Stazione 4 tel. 055 212245 fax 055 2381226 turismo3@comune.fi.it CITY SERVICES OFFICE FOR THE PROTECTION OF THE RIGHTS OF TOURISTS At the Information Office of the Florence Tourism Board in Via Cavour 1r, there is a special counter devoted to safeguarding the rights of tourists. Expert, multilingual staff help tourists to fill out complaint forms which are then sent on to the pertinent authorities. OFFICE OF CONCILIATION The Florence Chamber of Commerce (piazza dei Giudici 3) has set up a reconciliation service to settle financial controversies that may arise between businesses and tourist consumers, the aim being to avoid lengthy and costly legal proceedings. For visitors who cannot follow the reconciliation procedure in person, the office appoints a representative chosen from a list drawn up by consumer protection bodies. The procedure can also be activated on the Chamber of Commerce’s website at: www.fi.camcom.it getting around in the city getting around in the city With your own car City buses If you arrive in Florence by car, it is worth parking it and using public and tourist transport to get around. Particular attention should also be given to signs indicating that you are entering the Restricted Traffic Zone (‘Zona a Traffico Limitato’, ZTL), which covers the area of the historic city centre. Access is controlled by video cameras, and you will need prior authorization to enter if you want to avoid a hefty fine. If you are looking for accommodation, the hotel you decide to stay in or the garage where you intend to park can enable you, by means of a specific procedure, to enter the ZTL temporarily. Further information about the Restricted Traffic Zone is available at www.muoversiafirenze.it or www.serviziallastrada.it Florence and some of the adjoining towns are served by ATAF city buses. These buses are orange, and enable you get around anywhere. Timetables are posted at bus stops or at www.ataf.net Ordinary bus tickets should be purchased before getting onto the bus, from a newsagent, tobacconist or bar, or from the ticket office situated under the shelter (arrivals side) outside Santa Maria Novella railway station. Tickets cost € 1.20 and are valid for 70 minutes (you can change bus without buying another ticket) from when they have been validated on board the bus (punch the ticket in the machine situated just inside the entrance to the bus). A 24-hour ticket costs € 5. A multiple 4-journey ticket costs € 4.50 and can be used by 4 different people, for example a family. Remember that children under a metre tall travel free. Another practical option is the Carta Agile, an electronic ATAF card that can be used for 10 or 21 journeys. Info: 800 424500 (from a land line) or 199 104245 (from a cell phone). With a hire car 32 GETTING AROUND IN THE CITY If you decide to hire a car in Florence, you will find rental companies both in the terminal building of the A. Vespucci Airport and in the city centre. The majority of car hire companies are in streets close to the central railway station (SMN). Remember that this area is inside the Restricted Traffic Zone and that the above comments apply. As this guide goes to press, work is being completed on Line 1 of the new tram service. This will run between Santa Maria Novella railway station and the south-west outskirts of Florence as far as Scandicci. Other means of transport Auto Europa Borgo Ognissanti 100 r Call centre 800 334440 AVIS Borgo Ognissanti 128 r Call centre 199 100133 City Car Rent via Alamanni 3a c/o Garage La Stazione tel. 055 2399231 Easy Car via della Scala 53 r tel. 055 284366 Europcar Borgo Ognissanti 53 r Call centre 199 307030 Hertz Italiana via Maso Finiguerra 33 Call centre 199 112211 Italy by Car Thrifty dollar Borgo Ognissanti 134 r Call centre 800 846083 Maggiore via Maso Finiguerra 13 r Call centre 199 151120 Maxirent Borgo Ognissanti 133 r tel. 055 2654207 Sixt Borgo Ognissanti 153 r tel. 055 2399696 Travelcar Borgo Ognissanti 108 r Call center 199 180 180 How do I park? Car parking spaces in Florence are divided into areas reserved for residents (white markings on the ground) and pay-and-display areas (sky blue markings). Near the pay-and-display areas there are ticket machines, which accept coins. There are also many covered and attended car parks in the city centre. These are all run by Firenze Parcheggi. Santa Maria Novella central railway station (SMN), open round the clock Sant’Ambrogio piazza Annigoni, open round the clock Beccaria piazza C. Beccaria, open round the clock Alberti piazza Alberti, open round the clock Parterre via Madonna della Tosse 9, open round the clock Fortezza Fiera piazzale Caduti nei Lager, open round the clock Oltrarno piazza della Calza, open round the clock Porta al Prato Via Gabbuggiani, open round the clock Sito www.firenzeparcheggi.it Florence, being relatively small, lends itself to the use of a bicycle, thanks also to a large number of cycle tracks. BICYCLE 1000 e 1 bici (social cooperative) has cycle points at the railway stations of Santa Maria Novella and Campo Marte, Piazza Santa Croce, Piazza Annigoni (market of Sant’Ambrogio). Alinari via San Zanobi 38R tel. 055 280500 www.alinarirental.com Florence by bike via San Zanobi 120 R tel. 055 488992 www.florencebybike.it Rentway piazza San Benedetto1R tel. 333 9619820 www.rentway.it RICKSHAW Bicycle rickshaws carries two adults or an adult and two children, and are an usual way to discover the city. Tre Rote tel. 338 6389245 www.pedicabfirenze.it SEGWAY The Segway is a silent and convenient way of getting around Info 055 2398855 www.segway.it OPEN CARRIAGE It is hard to resist the romantic charm of a ride on an open carriage. You can pick one up in Piazza Duomo, Piazza San Giovanni or Piazza della Signoria. 33 GETTING AROUND IN THE CITY TAXI Taxis are white. They can be booked by phone or picked up by going to a taxi rank. There are ranks in front of the main railway stations and in many BOATS city centre piazzas. From June to September Radiotaxi SOCOTA it is also possible to take tel. 055 4242 a trip along the River Radiotaxi COTAFI Arno on one of the typi- tel. 055 4390 cal local boats, called If you arrive in barchetti. The embarka- Florence by plane, the tion point is near Piazza taxi ride into the city Mentana, and the boats centre takes about go as far as Lungarno 15 minutes. The taxi Corsini. Booking obliga- cooperatives have tory (minimum 6 peoestablished a fixed ple). Call the Associrate (€ 20) to azione I Renaioli, and from the airport tel. 347 7982356. and city centre hotels. getting around in the surrounding area getting around in the surrounding area By bus CAP largo Fratelli Alinari 9 www.capautolinee.it COPIT largo Fratelli Alinari 9 www.copitspa.it LAZZI piazza Stazione 1 www.lazzi.it e z turis n e r i f . m w t o.i SITA via Santa Caterina da Siena 15 www.sitabus.it ww The area surrounding Florence is served by non-city buses, which may be blue or green. The bus stations are all in the immediate vicinity of the central railway station (SMN). The following companies operate services: Main destinations served by bus in the province of Florence 34 GETTING AROUND IN THE SURROUNDING AREA SITA: Barberino di Mugello - Barberino Val d’Elsa - Bivigliano (comune di Vaglia) Calenzano - Castagno d’Andrea (comune di San Godenzo) - Castelfiorentino - Cerbaia (comune di San Casciano Val di Pesa) - Certaldo - Compiobbi (comune di Fiesole) Consuma (comune di Pelago) - Dicomano - Falciani (comune di Impruneta) - Firenzuola - Gambassi Terme - Giogoli (comune di Scandicci) - Grassina (comune di Bagno a Ripoli) - Greve in Chianti - Incisa in Valdarno - Ginestra Fiorentina (comune di Lastra a Signa) - Le Sieci (comune di Pontassieve) - Londa - Marcialla (comune di Barberino Val d’Elsa) - Marradi - Montaione - Montesenario (comune di Vaglia) - Montespertoli - Panzano (comune di Greve in Chianti) - Pelago - Pontassieve - Pratolino (comune di Vaglia) - Reggello - Rufina - Santa Brigida (comune di Pontassieve) - San Casciano in Val di Pesa - San Godenzo - San Piero a Sieve - Scarperia - Strada in Chianti (comune di Greve in Chianti) Tavarnelle in Val di Pesa - Vaglia - Vallombrosa (comune di Reggello) - Vicchio di Mugello. CAP: Borgo San Lorenzo - Campi Bisenzio - Capalle (comune di Campi Bisenzio) - Impruneta - Palazzuolo sul Senio - Ronta (comune di Borgo San Lorenzo) - San Piero a Sieve - Tavarnuzze (comune di Impruneta) - Vaglia. COPIT: Cerreto Guidi - Vinci (from Empoli station) LAZZI: Campi Bisenzio - Empoli - Figline Valdarno - Fucecchio - Incisa in Valdarno - Lastra a Signa - Montelupo Fiorentino - Pontassieve - Roveta (Comune di Scandicci) - Signa. 35 GETTING AROUND IN THE SURROUNDING AREA By train Florence’s central train station is Other stations include Santa Maria Novella (in the heart of the city centre). Campo di Marte (trains from Arezzo/Rome, Mugello, Val di Sieve) Rifredi (trains from Pisa, Bologna) Airport Florence’s airport is Amerigo Vespucci Airport via del Termine 11 www.aeroporto.firenze.it The airport is about 5 km from the city centre. National and international flights. The Vasari Corridor is a raised passageway built by Giorgio Vasari for Cosimo I. It links Palazzo Vecchio with what was the new residence of Palazzo Pitti. The Corridor runs along by the Arno and then crosses it above Ponte Vecchio. health information If you have health problems during your stay in Florence, you can use the accident/emergency and medical assistance services. For specialist tests you will be required to pay a ‘ticket’, that is a contribution to the cost of the test. HEALTH EMERGENCIES: call 118 (round the clock, free of charge) HOSPITALS WITH AN ACCIDENT AND EMERGENCY DEPARTMENT 36 HEALTH INFORMATION Santa Maria Nuova (city centre), Piazza S. Maria Nuova 1, Florence - tel. 055 27581 Careggi Via delle Oblate 1, Florence tel. 055 794111 Careggi Accident and Emergency Department tel. 055 7949644 Nuovo Ospedale San Giovanni di Dio Via di Torregalli 3, Florence tel. 055 71921 Santa Maria Annunziata Via dell’Antella 58 Bagno a Ripoli (Florence) tel. 055 24961 Meyer (paediatric hospital) Viale Pieraccini 24, Florence tel. 055 56621 health information The on-duty doctor service is operative every day during the nighttime hours (8pm–8am); on Saturdays and Sundays (24 hours a day); and, when there is a public holiday during the week, from 10am on the day before the holiday to 8am on the first normal post-holiday working day, including 24 hour coverage on the public holiday(s). The service is free and is not subject to the payment of a ‘ticket’. GUARDIA MEDICA (ON-DUTY DOCTOR) EMERGENCY EYE UNIT Palagi (ex IOT) Viale Michelangiolo 41, Florence Quartiere 2 tel. 055 679293 Surgery for urgent needs Tel. 055 65771 open Monday–Friday, 8am–8pm (last admission 7.45pm) Quartiere 3 tel. 055 2320082 (Galluzzo) 055 6536899 Careggi (see above) tel. 055 7947260 TRAUMA ACCIDENT AND EMERGENCY DEPARTMENT CTO Largo Palagi 1, Florence tel. 055 7948077 EMERGENCY DENTAL CARE Careggi Via delle Oblate 1 tel. 055 7947401 Monday–Saturday, 8.30am–12.30 noon Nuovo Ospedale San Giovanni di Dio (see above) tel. 055 7192501 Monday–Saturday, 8–9am and 12 noon–1pm (only 6 people per day) Quartiere 1 (city centre) tel. 055 2339456 055 215616 (Oltrarno) Quartiere 4 tel. 055 700536 24-HOUR PHARMACIES Farmacia Comunale n° 13 inside Florence SMN railway station tel 055 289435 055 216761 Molteni via Calzaiuoli 7r tel. 055 289490 All’Insegna del Moro piazza S. Giovanni 20r tel. 055 211343 Quartiere 5 tel. 055 42691 (Rifredi, Careggi, Vittoria, Le Panche, Tre Pietre, Romito) tel. 055 419779 (Ponte di Mezzo, Firenze Nova, Olmatello, Viale Guidoni) tel. 055 315225 (Novoli, Peretola, Brozzi, Osmannoro) 37 HEALTH INFORMATION post offices banks At post offices it is possible to buy stamps, send letters, packages and faxes, and wire money. Foreign currency can also be exchanged. Banca Antonveneta via Ricasoli 8 tel. 055 27811 Post offices open: Monday–Friday, 8.15am–7pm; Saturday 8.15am–12.30 noon Firenze V.R. (city centre) via Pellicceria 3, tel. 055 2736481 Firenze 7 - via Pietrapiana 53, tel. 055 22674231 Firenze 10 - via Magenta 13r, tel. 055 261981 Firenze 39 - via Alamanni 18r, tel. 055 219485 Banca di Roma via Vecchietti 5 tel. 055 277141 Post office open: Tuesday–Sunday, 10.30am–6.30pm Uffizi Gallery tel. 055 284709 38 POST OFFICES BANKS banks bureau de change Post offices open: Monday–Friday, 8.15am–1.30pm; Saturday 8.15am–12.30 noon Firenze 4 - via Barbadori 37r, tel. 055 288175 Firenze 18 - via Cavour 71a, tel. 055 463501 Firenze 20 - piazza Brunelleschi 20, tel. 055 212396 Firenze 21 - piazza Ludovico Antonio Muratori (Statuto train station), tel. 055 480314 Banca Intesa - via Vecchietti 5 tel. 055 272091 - via Por Santa Maria 19r tel. 055 295126 - via Pescioni 1 tel. 055 27851 Banca Nazionale del Lavoro - via Cerretani 6 tel. 055 23301 - via Cavour 59 tel. 055 495340 Banca Sella via Cavour 74r tel. 055 291074 The banks generally close between 1.15pm and 2.30pm, and reopen in the afternoon for about an hour. The majority of exchange agencies remain open during the lunch hour and at weekends. However, it is worth checking opening times at tourist information offices or at: www.firenzeturismo.it Banca Toscana - piazza Signoria 22r tel. 055 216906 - via Cavour 82a tel. 055 5001865 - piazza Stazione 9r tel. 055 211991 - via Por Santa Maria 2r tel. 055 210458 Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze - via Bufalini 6 tel. 055 26121 - via Tornabuoni 23r tel. 055 214034 Monte dei Paschi di Siena - piazza San Lorenzo 1 tel. 055 268429 - piazza Stazione 1 tel. 055 2399074 - via dei Pecori 6 tel. 055 273411 San Paolo - via Vecchietti 5r tel. 055 272091 Unicredit - via Vecchietti 11 tel. 055 27941 - via Brunelleschi 11 tel. 055 23921 Arcudi via Ricasoli 81r tel. 055 210275 Change Exchange Carlo Alunno via della Ninna 9r tel. 055 217611 Change Passeri Silvia Omega Viaggi piazza Stazione 14 Interno 37 - Galleria Commerciale S.M.N. (shopping gallery) tel. 055 291312 post offices banks bureau de change Maccorp - via Calzaiuoli 42r** tel. 055 215805 - via Alamanni 7r tel. 055 218471 - via Por S.Maria 3r** tel. 055 287309 - piazza del Mercato Nuovo 2/r*** tel. 055 284598 - piazza S. Giovanni 7r*** tel. 055 2302354 - Inside SMN Railway Station tel. 055 9061052 ** tax free service with Global Refund *** tax free service with Première Morandini Alessio - via Calzaiuoli 84r tel. 055 212482 - via Panzani 59r tel. 055 293022 Interchange lungarno Acciaiuoli 6r tel. 055 289781 www.interchange.eu Touriservice via Santa Caterina da Siena 9r tel. 055 213973 39 BANKS BUREAU DE CHANGE public lavatories The following is a list of internet points in Florence city centre. For opening hours and details about the services offered (not all of them have a wi-fi connection), it is worth checking at a tourist information office or on the site of www.firenzeturismo.it IL CAIRO PHONE CENTER via de’ Macci 90r tel. 055 2638336 CARUSO JAZZ CAFE’ via Lambertesca 14/16r tel. 055 281940 www.carusojazzcafe.com 40 INTERNET POINT CYBER LINK via del Giglio 29r tel. 055 5370531 www.cyberlinkplus.com CLICKING via Giusti 3/5 r tel. 055 244108 EASY INTERNET inside the Libreria Martelli via Martelli 22 (secondary entrance in Via Ricasoli) tel. 055 280119 www.easyinternetcafe.it INTERNET PITTI piazza de’ Pitti 8r tel. 055 2728836 INTERNET TRAIN - Guelfa via Guelfa 54/56 r tel. 055 2645146 - Oriuolo via dell’Oriuolo 40r tel. 055 2638968 - Pontevecchio borgo San Jacopo 30r tel. 055 2657935 - Santacroce via de' Benci 36r tel. 055 2638555 - Portarossa via Porta Rossa 38r tel. 055 2741037 - Station S.M.N. train station Galleria Commerciale (shopping gallery) 38 tel. 055 2399720 www.internettrain.it LA CH@T via Ghibellina 98r tel. 055 2466472 www.lachat.it VENUS POINT CENTER S.M.N. train station Galleria Commerciale (shopping gallery) 18 tel. 055 2776250 WEBPUCCINO piazza Madonna Aldobrandini corner via de’ Conti 22r tel. 055 2776469 www.webpuccino.it internet point public lavatories The public lavatories managed by Florence City Council are usually open until sundown (only the ones in the markets close at 2pm). It generally costs € 0.60 to use the lavatories. Santa Maria Novella Station (underground arcade and Platform 2) disabled access via della Stufa 25 disabled access via Filippina corner with via Borgognona disabled access baby changing facilities borgo Santa Croce 29r disabled access - baby changing facilities piazza Ghiberti (inside the Sant’Ambrogio Market) disabled access - baby changing facilities via dell’Ariento 14 (inside and outside the Central Market) - disabled access piazzale Michelangelo (San Salvatore al Monte side) disabled access baby changing facilities via dello Sprone disabled access - baby changing facilities Fortezza da Basso (giardino della vasca) disabled access baby changing facilities lungarno Pecori Giraldi (tourist bus terminal, multiethnic area) via Sant’Agostino 8 showers also available piazzale Kennedy Parco delle Cascine disabled access - baby changing facilities piazza Madonna della Neve piazza de' Ciompi (inside the garden) - free Loggia del Grano (via de’ Castellani) Various services including baby-changing facilities, are also available at the Arts and Culture Centre of the Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore, Piazza San Giovanni 7. ww w internet point The establishments (bars, cafes, wine bars, pubs) that display this sign have been selected by Florence City Council and provide bathroom facilities for customers. 41 PUBLIC LAVATORIES zeturismo.it n e r .fi major events in florence At the city’s tourist information office you can find full details about all the day’s and month’s events. The following is a list of just some of the main ones: 42 CITY LIFE SCOPPIO DEL CARRO Easter Sunday morning - Piazza del Duomo The ‘Explosion of the Cart’ takes place in Piazza del Duomo on Easter Sunday morning. Known as the Brindellone, the cart is laden with a Catherine wheel of fireworks and crackers and hauled half way across the city by a pair of white oxen. It is then set off by the ‘flight’ of a dove, a fuse which shoots out from inside the Cathedral and runs along a wire to the cart. CALCIO STORICO Three matches. Final on 24 June - Piazza Santa Croce White, Sky Blue, Green, Red – these are the colours of the teams that take part in Calcio Fiorentino, one for each of the city’s four historic quarters. The most celebrated of all games was played on 1530 between the Whites and the Greens, while the city was under siege from Imperial troops. Nowadays the matches are preceded by a big procession during which over 500 participants dressed up in 16thcentury costume parade through the city streets. Info: 055 2616052 FEAST OF SAINT JOHN THE BAPTIST 24 June Florence has always paid solemn religious and civic tribute to Saint John the Baptist, the city’s patron saint. And still today, on the morning of 24 June, a short procession leaves Palazzo Vecchio carrying candles to offer to the saint. But the event that attracts Florentines the most is the spectacular firework display held in the evening. Big crowds gather along the Lungarni, enthusiastic but demanding – the fireworks, in fact, must be nothing short of perfect. major events in florence THE RIFICOLONA 7 September (eve of the Nativity of the Virgin) Piazza SS. Annunziata On 8 September a fair used to be held in Piazza della Santissima Annunziata to mark the Feast of the Virgin. It attracted country folk, especially women, known as fierucolone, who came bearing lanterns – after all, there was no street lighting in those days. Inspired by these lanterns, the Florentines began to create the early rificolone, lamps made from coloured paper lit by a candle. Nowadays, the Rificolona is an event for children, who proudly carry their lanterns, hanging off a short pole, through the city centre piazzas. PITTI IMMAGINE January, June-July - Fortezza da Basso The fashion parades organized by Pitti Immagine, which are reserved for trade operators, are amongst the most important such events in the world for menswear, children’s fashions (0–14 years) and yarns. Pitti Immagine is held twice a year, in winter and summer. Info: 055 36931 www.pittimmagine.com MAGGIO MUSICALE FIORENTINO May-June - Teatro Comunale The Maggio Musicale Fiorentino is one of Florence’s most traditional and successful musical events. First held in 1933, famous conductors, directors and dance companies have taken part in the event over the years. The programme attracts audiences from around the world, and involves the Orchestra and Choir of the Maggio, and a ballet company called MaggioDanza. Info: 055 2779350 www.maggiofiorentino.com 43 CITY LIFE major events in florence CITY LIFE FABBRICA EUROPA May - Stazione Leopolda This European festival is held in the immense space of the Stazione Leopolda, and features concerts, dance, plays, performance, installations and various meetings. A different theme is chosen each year. Fabbrica Europa is a big showcase for figures of undisputable talent but also for new and innovative work by emerging artists. Info: www.fabbricaeuropa.net FESTIVAL DELLA CREATIVITÀ End of October - Fortezza da Basso The Festival of Creativity is a major event designed to attract innovation, research and development in the public and private sector. There are seminars and stands but also concerts, music and performances. Four days packed with events and absolutely free of charge, organized by the Region of Tuscany. Info: 055 49721 www.festivaldellacreativita.it MOSTRA INTERNAZIONALE DELL’ARTIGIANATO End of April, beginning of May - Fortezza da Basso The International Arts and Crafts Fair dates back to 1936, and is an absolute must for anyone interested in buying curious and top-quality items and goods from every region in the country and from the four corners of the world. Info: 055 49721 www.mostraartigianato.it FLORENCE MARATHON Last Sunday of November The Florence Marathon is an annual event, a panoramic 42 km course starting in Piazzale Michelangelo and ending in Piazza Santa Croce, for professional and amateur athletes from around the world. The awards ceremony is held in Piazza Santa Croce. Info: 055 572885 www.firenzemarathon.it ESTATE FIESOLANA June-August - Fiesole, Roman Theatre The Estate Fiesolana is held in the splendidly atmospheric setting of the open-air Roman Theatre. The dance, music and theatre programme covers various different genres and traditions, featuring top-quality work and performers. Info: 055 5978403 www.estatefiesolana.it Besides these events, numerous art exhibitions are held in Florence during the course of the year, both in the main museums and in dedicated spaces such as Palazzo Strozzi (Piazza Strozzi), Palazzo Medici Riccardi (Via Cavour), Fort Belvedere and Villa Bardini. BIENNALE INTERNAZIONALE DELL’ANTIQUARIATO End of September, beginning of October (odd-numbered years) Palazzo Corsini The International Antiques Biennale is the oldest antiques fair in Italy and one of the most important of its kind in the world. It is attended by many internationally prominent antiquarians, representing all the sectors of the trade and offering a broad view of different schools and styles of every age and provenance. Info: 055 282635 www.mostraantiquariato.it w.f ww iren 44 major events in florence turismo.it e z 45 CITY LIFE florence for children 46 CITY LIFE Every place and museum, even the most seemingly boring ones, can offer something to interest children. In the warmer months, Florence has plenty of parks and gardens where children can run around, play and generally let off steam (see Parks and Gardens in Florence). As for the kind of shopping that children like, the city centre has a host of toy shops, bookshops, and stores managed by important creators of cartoons. In the winter months, various theatres organize their programmes (especially at the weekend) so as to cater for the young – puppet shows, clowning and so on. Ask at a tourist information office for more details. In recent years Florence’s museums have become much more child-friendly, and many now run workshops and guided tours designed especially with their needs in mind. Children’s Museum Tel. 055 2768224 - 055 2768558 www.palazzovecchio-museoragazzi.it Workshops, experiments, simulations, secret paths through the various museums led by youth workers and actors. The Children’s Museum takes in Palazzo Vecchio and the Monumental Quarters; the Stibbert Museum; the Brancacci Chapel in the church of the Carmine; the Museo Storico Topografico Firenze com’era; and the Museo Leonardiano in Vinci. Most of the activities are available in English, French, Spanish and German. florence for children Children’s Workshop at the Museo degli Innocenti Via de’ Fibbiai 2 (Piazza Santissima Annunziata) - Tel. 055 2478386 www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it Runs more than 70 creative play workshops relating to art, the history of Florence, the ancient hospital and children’s rights. Suitable for children aged 3 to 11. Workshops in English, French, Spanish Horne Museum Via de’ Benci 6 - Tel. 055 244661- www.museohorne.it Organizes lively guided tours and workshops for school and family groups. After learning about the works on display, the children take part in a manual or creative activity. 47 CITY LIFE Marino Marini Museum Piazza San Pancrazio - Tel. 055 219432 - www.museomarinomarini.it Activities for mixed groups of adults and children at weekends, inspired by the works in the museum or those on display during temporary exhibitions. The world of the sciences is a perennial source of curiosity for children, and Florence has a fine tradition of collections (dating back to Medici times) and centres of scientific research. Museum of the History of Science Piazza dei Giudici 1 - Tel. 055 265311 - www.imss.fi.it A large collection of astrolabes, dividers, compasses, armillary spheres and other scientific instruments collected by the Medici. A whole section is devoted to the great scientist Galileo Galilei. In 2010 the layout will be revamped and the museum will be renamed as the Galileo Museum. florence for children The Garden of Archimedes. A Museum for Mathematics Un Museo per la Matematica - Via San Bartolo a Cintoia 19/a Tel. 055 7879594 - www.archimede.ms A visit to this museum provides an opportunity to start having some fun with the most ancient of sciences. Practical exercises, experiments and workshops designed to demonstrate that mathematics is not difficult and is a part of our everyday lives. The University of Florence’s Museum of Natural History has six different sections. The most interesting ones for children are: 48 CITY LIFE - ‘La Specola’ Zoology Section Via Romana 17 - Tel. 055 2288251 - www.msn.unifi.it Spectacular collection of anatomical waxes and some 5,000 animal specimens (only a small part of the entire collection), including birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians, fish and invertebrates. A selection of large vertebrates are on display in the Skeletons Room. - Geology and Palaeontology Section via La Pira 4 - Tel. 055 2757536 - www.msn.unifi.it Palaeontological finds from throughout Tuscany. The highlight of the museum is the Elephant ‘Peter’, a probisicidean from the Upper Valdarno. Planetarium Via Giusti 29 - Tel. 055 2343723 - www.planetario.fi.it The Planetarium is a space for educational activities, designed to help people learn more about the skies. A large dome reproduces the movement of the stars and planets, and simulates the sky at any latitude of the Earth. The Planetarium organizes sessions for school parties and family groups, led by astronomers from the Arcetri Observatory. A journey back through time is a fascinating prospect for young children. That is why there are at least two places to recommend to children in Florence: Archaeology Museum piazza SS. Annunziata 9 - Tel. 055 23575 - www.firenzemusei.it The museum covers the distant roots of our civilization, including Etruscan, Greek and Roman finds, with a number of truly breathtaking pieces like the Chimera of Arezzo and the François Vase. Surprisingly, there is also a fabulous Egyptology section (second only to the Egyptian Museum in Turin), with mummies, sarcophagi and other fascinating objects. Paolo Graziosi Museum of Prehistory Convento delle Oblate, via Sant’Egidio 21 - Tel. 055 295159 www.museofiorentinopreistoria.it The museum illustrates the history of our forbears from the Early Stone Age through to the Metal Ages. Children aged three to ten can get to grips with prehistory under the guidance of specialist staff. For sport enthusiasts: Museum of Football viale Aldo Palazzeschi 20 (Coverciano) - Tel. 055 600526 - 800428499 www.museodelcalcio.it For anyone who wants to play, read or watch a cartoon in a colourful, relaxing space: Biblioteca delle Oblate Convento delle Oblate, via dell’Oriolo 26 - Tel. 055 2616512 www.bibliotecadelleoblate.it On the second floor of Florence’s newest library is a special children’s area. The books, in Italian and the main foreign languages, can be taken directly from the shelves. There are also games for Playstation3 and films on DVD. Ideal for a pleasant, relaxing break. Free admission. 49 CITY LIFE food and drink 50 CITY LIFE If you want to sample the flavours of Florentine cuisine, start with a good breakfast in one of the city’s many bars. Like the majority of Italians, the Florentines enjoy having breakfast at a bar, generally opting for a cappuccino (creamy, not too hot and perhaps with a sprinkling of cocoa on top) or a coffee – normale, macchiato ( i.e., with a dash of hot or cold milk) or some other variant – and a pastry, often a warm brioche, either plain or filled with confectioner’s custard, jam or chocolate. For a breakfast of this sort, it is worth seeking out a confectioner that bakes their own pastries. For lunch there is an embarrassment of choice: restaurants, trattorias, pizzerias and so on. But Florentines often do not sit down for lunch. In many areas of Florence you can find open-air stalls and kiosks selling so-called street food: a hearty sandwich with lampredotto (a kind of tripe), offal or roast pork (porchetta). A quick meal consisting of a sandwich or roll with cold meats, cheese and dressings of various kinds, flat focaccia bread or a salad can also be found in the many small delicatessens dotted around the city. And to round it all off, a coffee (never cappuccino!). Remember though, to check prices and service charges – often it costs more to sit down than it does to eat at the counter. The afternoon snack, otherwise known as the merenda, varies according to season. In the summer, locals and tourists of all food and drink ages gravitate towards the ice-cream parlours (keep an eye out for the signs produzione propria or gelateria artigianale, which means they make it themselves), which can also be found in the city centre; or kiosks selling slices of cool cocomero (watermelon). For a more substantial bite, all you need to do is look for a baker and buy a slice of schiacciata con olio, a flat bread that is either plain or filled, or some other bakery CITY LIFE product, such as schiacciata dolce con uva (grape bread), pan di ramerino (rosemary-flavoured bread) or quaresimali (though these can generally be found in the lead up to Easter). On cold winter days, on the other hand, the ideal is a cup of hot chocolate or a sugary doughnut filled with custard or chocolate, which are served, piping hot, in the middle of the afternoon. 51 As the evening draws in, students and workers, the young and not so young, often go out for an aperitif, usually a cocktail such as a Negroni (a mix of Campari, vermouth and gin, invented in Florence by Count Camillo Negroni), or just a glass of wine with, in the worst of cases, peanuts and crisps. In fact, more and more frequently aperitifs are accompanied by an extensive buffet that makes a ready substitute for dinner and which is included in the cost of the drink. food and drink 52 CITY LIFE For Florentines dinner never starts before 8pm, though the majority of eateries welcome tourists well before then. For an informal, relatively cheap meal out, one option is a pizza, but there is also a wealth of other possibilities. There are lots of restaurants of every type and price, traditional, more creative or ethnic; then there are the osterie and trattorias, which serve Florentine and Tuscan menus; and enoteche and wine bars that often lay on some traditional dishes to accompany a wine tasting. During the warmer months, take advantage of establishments with a terrace, garden, or tables out in the city-centre streets. A ‘typical’ meal will start with an antipasto, which in a traditional menu consists of things like ham, salami, toasted bread with various toppings (crostini misti) or rubbed with garlic or served with tomatoes (bruschette). This is followed by the first course, generally a bowl of pasta or soup. Traditional dishes include pappardelle al sugo, ribollita (a thick vegetable and bread soup) or pappa al pomodoro (another thick soup, made of bread and tomato). For the second course, allow yourself to be tempted by the meat dishes, starting with a steak (which only the tourists call alla fiorentina). But you will not be disappointed by recipes made from game, poultry and so on. food and drink Many restaurants also serve excellent fish or vegetarian dishes. It is always best to choose places that serve vegetables that are in season, and also, to stick to the vegetarian theme, it must be said that some dishes, for instance vegetables that have been boiled and then cooked up with various condiments, or fagioli all’uccelletto, consisting of beans and tomatoes cooked in a glass flask, are a valid and cheap alternative to a steak. 53 CITY LIFE To accompany a typical Florentine meal, the best advice is to stick to Chianti Classico, indicated by the historic black cockerel label. The production zone is limited to four municipalities in the province of Florence and four in that of Siena. Lots of top-quality wines are produced in the Florence area. Besides Chianti Classico, the DOCG Chianti appellation, which in the province of Florence is also designated ‘Superiore’, also encompasses the sub-zones of Colli Fiorentini, Rufina, Montalbano and Montespertoli. There are also many DOC (Bianco dell’Empolese, Colli dell’Etruria Centrale, Pomino) and IGT (Alta Valle del Greve, Colli della Toscana Centrale, Novelli di Toscana) wines, many of which are of good quality. Finally, a typical meal is rounded off with a dessert – try almond biscuits dipped in Vin Santo – and coffee. shopping in florence With its wealth of stores, markets and workshops, Florence is an ideal place for shopping. Many of the best shopping areas are in the city centre, but there are also streets and neighbourhoods in the suburbs where you can buy food items, clothing and accessories, souvenirs and lots more besides. Starting in the city centre, no trip to Florence would be complete 54 CITY LIFE without a visit to the market of San Lorenzo: the piazza in front of the church and the streets around the covered market are crowded with stalls selling souvenirs, accessories, clothing and shoes. On the other hand the covered market is perfect if you want to buy food of various kinds: fruit and vegetables, meat, fish and typical Florentine and Tuscan specialities. All of this can also be found in the covered market of Sant’Ambrogio. And nearby, in Piazza dei Ciompi, there is an interesting flea and second-book market. Another space with open-air stalls is the Mercato Nuovo, beneath the Loggia del Porcellino, which lies between Via Calimala and Via Porta Rossa. Here you can find leatherware, clothing and some fun souvenirs. On Tuesday it is worth heading out to the park of the Cascine, where there is a large weekly market. Crossing Ponte Vecchio, with its dazzling shop-windows full of jewellery and fine goldsmith’s items, brings you to the Oltrarno. The ‘other side of the Arno’ is still characterized by a host of craft studios and workshops (jewellery, vases, furniture, textiles, wood and paper items), restorers and antiques’ dealers, especially in the areas of Borgo San Frediano and Piazza Santo shopping in florence Spirito. Near Piazza Santa Croce, along Via de’ Benci, Borgo de’ Greci and Borgo Santa Croce, there are lots of shops selling leatherware such as jackets and bags. For less ‘typical’ and more international goods, you can head for the shops along Via Calzaiuoli (which links the Cathedral and Piazza della Signoria), Via Roma (which leads to Piazza della Repubblica, home, among other things, to some of Florence’s historic bars where you can relax with a coffee or aperitif), Via Panzani and Via de’ Cerretani, which connect the central train station to Piazza del Duomo. Then, of course, there are the chic boutiques in the nearby Via della Vigna Nuova. Moving out from the city centre, there are other good shopping areas around Piazza Beccaria, for instance in Borgo la Croce and Via Gioberti, also known as the ‘street of a hundred shops’; in the Campo di Marte area, around Piazza delle Cure, there are plenty of clothes and food shops, while in the piazza itself there is a daily fruit and vegetable market (mornings). A lot of the produce is sold direct by local farmers. In the northern suburbs of the city, the Peretola area has many stores, as does the area around Piazza Dalmazia, near Rifredi railway station. 55 CITY LIFE arts and crafts 56 Florence has been a lively centre for craft activities ever since medieval times. The heart of the city has always been home to a wealth of artisan and art workshops, where many of the great masters of the Renaissance received instruction and training. Unfortunately, few craft workshops continue to operate in the city centre today, partly as a result of various phases of urban renewal, the most recent of which took place following the flood in 1966. CITY LIFE However, within the circle of the ancient walls (which can be seen along the viali di circonvallazione or inner ring-road), there are still a number of neighbourhoods with a lively craft tradition, especially in the Santa Croce area and in the Oltrarno. In the streets around the church of Santa Croce, which have an abundance of leather shops and were once the focus for the city’s tanning and leather workshops, there are many restoration businesses, especially of antique furniture. There are a wide range of workshops in this area, some run by non-Florentines who have learnt the trade over the years. But the area with the greatest concentration of craft businesses is undoubtedly the Oltrarno. The neighbourhoods of San Frediano, Santo Spirito and Piazza Pitti contain the majority of antiquarians, restorers and woodworkers. The workshops are mainly clustered around the main piazzas (Piazza Santo Spirito, Piazza del Cestello and Piazza Pitti), but can also be found in the streets of historic neighbourhoods such as Via Pisana or Borgo San Frediano. arts and crafts Craft enterprises are now less frequent in the more up-market city centre around the Cathedral, Palazzo Vecchio and Piazza della Repubblica. They have given way to modern shops selling clothes, accessories and a host of other goods, even though a few historic workshops can still be found around San Lorenzo or San Marco. Some have kept their name and moved into the suburbs “beyond” the walls, in the neighbourhoods of Piazza delle Cure, Campo di Marte and Porta Romana. Florence City Council has established a special professional association called Esercizi Storici (‘Historic Businesses’), which comprises around a hundred craft trades, shops, bars, confectioners and restaurants. Membership is entirely voluntary. The main requisites are that the business must have been active for at least fifty years, operate within the council boundaries on premises which, if not the original ones, have at least preserved some traditional historic and cultural features. The statute of the association can be viewed by the general public on the council’s internet site. 57 CITY LIFE florence nightlife 58 CITY LIFE Each neighbourhood has its own particular nightlife scene, which you can enjoy exploring: Santo Spirito, San Niccolò and the Oltrarno, Santa Croce… The Florentines like eating out late as well, at a restaurant or pizzeria, and then moving on to catch some music or to dance. It is not hard to work out whether you are going into a bar or club popular with students, the over-30s or the fashion-conscious. Besides the music, style and clientele, the prices can vary greatly as well, as can the way things are organized: free admission, obligatory purchase of a drink, table service, club membership, etc. Theatre, cinema, festivals, concerts – keep a lookout for posters listing what’s on when you are visiting the city, or better still, check the APT’s website for upcoming events when planning your trip. And remember that the nightlife options proliferate in the warm summer months. Museums and galleries not infrequently extend their opening hours until late in the evening, and open-air shows and cinema are laid on so people can enjoy the cool of the evening. Piazzas, parks, gardens and various hidden corners of the city are transformed into big or small venues for events (often free) that really can satisfy everyone’s tastes. If you are looking for the big discos or dance halls, then you will need to move out from the city centre. And that is not the only reason for exploring the province. Every municipality in the Florence area is proud to present at least one event, festival or concert, offering further opportunities for a rather different and special night out. Florence has a wide range of clubs and venues. The ones listed here offer live music and dancing: FLOG via Michele Mercati 24b tel. 055 487145 www.flog.it TWICE via Verdi 57r tel. 055 2476356 www.twiceclub.com OTEL VARIETÉ via Generale Dalla Chiesa 9 tel. 055 650791 www.otelvariete.com TENAX via Pratese 46 tel. 055 308160 www.tenax.org VIPER THEATRE via Lombardia / via Pistoiese tel. 055 318231 www.viperclub.eu 59 CITY LIFE www.firenzeturismo.it www.firenzeturismo.it Though Florence is hardly a metropolis, there is no shortage of things to do in the evenings. In fact, there is something for all tastes in the city centre, where practically every street corner has a pub or cafe, club or disco. florence nightlife www.firenzeturismo.it FLORENCE CITY GUIDE 2009 TEXTS APT Firenze PHOTOS APT Firenze Archive Museo Marino Marini Opera Santa Maria del Fiore TRANSLATION Jeremy Carden for NTL GRAPHIC DESIGN ClaimCommunication PRINTED BY Stabilimento Poligrafico Fiorentino EDITING COMPLETED July 2009